From meenglis@cts.com Fri Aug 1 13:58:27 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.2.20030801104533.01aeaad8@mailbox2.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: "The Bulb Garden" Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 10:58:08 -0700 Dear PBS members: I mailed out the newsletters on Wednesday and Thursday this week, so you should be receiving yours soon. I hope you enjoy the Plant portraits from Robin Hansen and Judy Glattstein, as well as the final installment of John Ingram's container gardening article and one from Sheri Ann Richerson on handling tender bulbs in the Fall. My thanks to these authors for stepping forward to fill our newsletter with interesting information! If you have a favorite plant or plant combination, please write a 1/2 to 1 page 'plant portrait' for 'The Bulb Garden' and send it to me privately. Also, for our USA members, check the newsstands this fall for the Horticulture "Garden Style' special issue on bulbs. It is a great gift for a beginning bulb gardener and a pleasant read. We are mentioned in their resources section. Marguerite English, Editor: 'The Bulb Garden' Pacific Bulb Society For information and membership forms, view http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ From eagle85@flash.net Fri Aug 1 17:30:28 2003 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: "The Bulb Garden" Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:22:01 -0700 Marguerite EnglishDoug Westfall meenglis@cts.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > Dear PBS members: > I mailed out the newsletters on Wednesday and Thursday this week, so > you should be receiving yours soon. It arrived in So CA on 8/1/03 Doug Westfall From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Aug 1 18:04:25 2003 Message-Id: <3F2AE272.663FC78E@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: "The Bulb Garden" Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 14:58:10 -0700 My copy arrived this day, August 1st 2003. Good reading, Cheers John E. Bryan Douglas Westfall wrote: > > Marguerite EnglishDoug Westfall meenglis@cts.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long > Beach, CA > > > Dear PBS members: > > I mailed out the newsletters on Wednesday and Thursday this week, so > > you should be receiving yours soon. > > It arrived in So CA on 8/1/03 > > Doug Westfall > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From c-mueller@tamu.edu Fri Aug 1 20:57:22 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: (no subject) Date: Fri, 01 Aug 2003 19:56:10 -0500 Members: I've just received a review copy of Tony Avent's new book, 'So You Want To Start A Nursery,' (Timber Press, 2003, ISBN# 0-88192-584-5) and found it to be a truly useful tool for those thinking of going into the nursery business as well as those who already have one toe in the water with perhaps a plant production business at their home. Many, many useful topics are discussed: from plant importing, satisfying government regulations, plant patents and trademarks, the pitfalls of no water/electricity backups, making contacts, advertising, promoting plants, when to think big, when to cut your losses, how to set up a website, etc. This is probably a topic very close to the hearts of many in our "Bulbs Anonymous" group. And who better to tell us about the inside scoop of the nursery business than Tony Avent? Cynthia W. Mueller College Station, Tx Zone 8b-9 From Blee811@aol.com Sat Aug 2 00:05:26 2003 Message-Id: From: Blee811@aol.com Subject: (no subject) Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 00:05:19 EDT In a message dated 8/1/2003 8:57:37 PM Eastern Standard Time, c-mueller@tamu.edu writes: > This is probably a topic very close to the hearts of many in our "Bulbs > Anonymous" group. And who better to tell us about the inside scoop of the > nursery business than Tony Avent? I've been anticipating this book since Timber announced it last year. I'm not interested in starting a nursery, but hope it has lots of personal experiences and humor. Bill Lee From bandula@absamail.co.za Sun Aug 3 04:53:42 2003 Message-Id: <000201c3599c$e4a9a840$035627c4@w98sysrec> From: "Digby Boswell" Subject: Neopatersonia Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 11:53:39 +0200 Hi all, About the picture of Neopatersonia Mary Sue so kindly placed on the wiki for me here is a brief history from my side. Seed was purchased from a reputable seed supplier as Ornithogalum fimbrimarginatum. Last year when the plant was in flower I was privileged to have a visit from an expert South African bulb grower and he informed me that the name had changed to Neopatersonia uitenhagensis and I accept the name as such as I can find no other reference to this species. Cheers, Digby Boswell Pietermaritzburg. South Africa. bandula@absamail.co.za From jshields104@insightbb.com Sat Aug 2 12:14:12 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030802110421.00ae83e8@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinums blooming Date: Sat, 02 Aug 2003 11:14:11 -0500 Hi all, Crinum variabile is in bloom outside my greenhouse. I've posted a picture of it to the Bulbs_Images list on Yahoo groups. I grew my C. variabile from seeds obtained from Silverhill Seeds in 1997. This is one of three plants moved from pots into the ground outdoors in 2000. Only one of those three is in bloom. Three more were moved into the open field in 2001. They have not bloomed yet, but all are alive and healthy. Crinum variabile is the only crinum species native to the winter rainfall region of South Africa. In habitat, it grows in winter and is dormant through the hot, dry summer. This appears to be a facultative behavior, since here is grows nicely in summer and goes dormant in winter, even if in the greenhouse. This appears to also enable it to survive the winters outdoors here in central Indiana. We do, however, cover the outdoor crinums with about 6 inches of wood chips or bark mulch each autumn. I see that there is a scape on Crinum lineare about to bloom too. C. lineare is growing in a 5-gal. container and is watered in summer by a drip irrigation system. I bought the bulbs of C. lineare from Charles Craib in June 2001. I'll post a picture of lineare to Bulbs_Images too, if the weather cooperates. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From cyrtanthus@blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 2 16:47:40 2003 Message-Id: <000d01c35937$74505180$c6f830d5@cyrtanthus> From: "Dr Paul Chapman" Subject: New seed sales Date: Sat, 2 Aug 2003 21:48:32 +0100 John, I am certainly interested in other Hippeastrum seeds - preferably in a paper packet! Paul mailto:cyrtanthus@blueyonder.co.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ingram" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 2:10 AM Subject: [pbs] New seed sales > I have a fresh lot of seeds and bulbs that are > available soon. Email me for more info. > Those included are: > seeds of: > Vellozia spp. > Begonia spp. > Sinningias (some will be cold hardy to zone 8 or > higher) > Hippeastrums (species and calypratum hybrids)\ > And more bulbs. > > > > > ===== > John Ingram in hot and steamy L.A., CA. > Everything is blooming now. Crinums, Sinningias, Canna, Brugmansias, Hymenocallis, Habranthus, Zephyranthes, Cypellas, and so much more. jjingram@adelphia.net > Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com > www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From silverhill@yebo.co.za Sun Aug 3 12:00:48 2003 Message-Id: <07f801c359d8$ad269220$0100a8c0@saunders> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: Crinums blooming Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 16:26:11 +0200 Dear Jim Crinum variabile is fairly opportunistic - it produces leaves and grows whenever it gets water. It grows in very arid areas, but always grows on the edges of rivers, so if there is water in the river, the plants grow! Regards Rachel Saunders Cape Town ----- Original Message ----- From: J.E. Shields To: Bulbs-L ; Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Saturday, August 02, 2003 6:14 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinums blooming > Hi all, > > Crinum variabile is in bloom outside my greenhouse. I've posted a picture > of it to the Bulbs_Images list on Yahoo groups. I grew my C. variabile > from seeds obtained from Silverhill Seeds in 1997. This is one of three > plants moved from pots into the ground outdoors in 2000. Only one of those > three is in bloom. Three more were moved into the open field in > 2001. They have not bloomed yet, but all are alive and healthy. > > Crinum variabile is the only crinum species native to the winter rainfall > region of South Africa. In habitat, it grows in winter and is dormant > through the hot, dry summer. This appears to be a facultative behavior, > since here is grows nicely in summer and goes dormant in winter, even if in > the greenhouse. This appears to also enable it to survive the winters > outdoors here in central Indiana. We do, however, cover the outdoor > crinums with about 6 inches of wood chips or bark mulch each autumn. > > I see that there is a scape on Crinum lineare about to bloom too. C. > lineare is growing in a 5-gal. container and is watered in summer by a drip > irrigation system. I bought the bulbs of C. lineare from Charles Craib in > June 2001. > > I'll post a picture of lineare to Bulbs_Images too, if the weather cooperates. > > Regards, > Jim Shields > in central Indiana > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA > Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Sun Aug 3 10:57:52 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030802222001.00b34340@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 07:57:05 -0700 Dear All, The topic this week was inspired by an unanswered question on another bulb list and that was which bulbs flower without leaves. This is a rather broad question since some have leaves that grow and are dying back when they flower. Some of these same bulbs in cultivation away from their native habitat may still have leaves when they flower because the conditions in cultivation are different (temperatures and more regular amounts of moisture for instance.) Others have a dormant period, then flower, and then produce leaves. Then there are even some interesting combinations like Gethyllis that flower in summer without leaves, with a fruit emerging from the ground in autumn before the leaves appear. I think it would be worth growing just to see that happen. For the sake of this discussion let us focus on those plants that break dormancy with flowers first followed by leaves later. I think it is very helpful especially for beginners to know what the sequence is going to be so I hope to have a lot of help from everyone so we can come up with a list of species that show one of these patterns. Would someone volunteer to compile a list at the end of the week arranged alphabetically by genus and species so we will have all this information in one email? Normally this is the kind of thing that I would do, but I am really swamped. We have already had "Naked Lady" sightings reported so I can start there: Amaryllis belladonna Lycoris squamigera Can Kelly Irwin or Jim Waddick tell us if all the Lycoris species flower this way? There are Gladiolus that flower on a leafless stalk and then later a single leaf is produced. Gladiolus carmineus is one of them that blooms in the fall. Another that is blooming for me for the first time right now is Gladiolus monticola. It comes from a winter rainfall part of South Africa and blooms in the summer to fall. I understand there are populations on Table Mountain. It is pretty apricot color, very delicate, about 30-45 cm. (12-18 inches tall.) It is the only thing flowering in that raised bed of mine right now. Since a couple people wanted to see it when it bloomed I am adding the wiki link. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Gladiolus_monticola3.jpg The leaf you see is an leaf of a Gladiolus that bloomed in June and hasn't died back all the way yet. We put a piece of cardboard behind it so the digital camera would focus better on the flower. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Gladiolus_monticola2.jpg So add: Gladiolus carmineus Gladiolus monticola I hope our Colchicum, Cyclamen and Crocus experts will tell us which species flower without leaves. Please everyone tells us about the bulbs that you grow that you have found to flower first followed by the appearance of their leaves. Mary Sue TOW Coordinator From Arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 3 10:59:58 2003 Message-Id: <3F2D236D.9020100@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Subject: Neopatersonia Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 10:59:57 -0400 Digby; From Kubitzki: Neopatersonia Schonl. Perianth tube short; segments subequal, spreading. Stamens sub-1-seriate, attached at the throat of the perianth; filaments broadened and connate at the base, gradually narrowed above; anthers dorsiflexed, with introrse dehiscence. Ovary sessile, subovoid, 3 furrowed, with many ovules in each chamber; style filiform; stigma of three very short spreading branches. Fruit membranous 3- grooved, with loculicidal dehiscence. Seeds numerous flask shaped, rough. Only one species., N. uitenhagensis Schonl., S. Africa Arnold From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Aug 3 12:01:07 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 11:00:43 -0500 Dear Mary Sue; All Lycoris have foliage FIRST, then bloom on leafless stalks. When you ask about bulbs that flower first, then produce foliage or the opposite I assume you mean in a "calendar year", not a 'growing season' which can range from fall to spring in mild winter areas. Lycoris definitely wouldn't fit the discussion category and I don't think Belladonna do either. Maybe there should be two lists compiled of those that flower first and those with foliage first based on a calendar year. And do we really concern ourselves with something like Scadoxus puniceus which blooms and immediately has foliage- like the next day! Perhaps we should restrict to genera or even species that have foliage and flowers in two different seasons - then we'd include Lycoris. Maybe a broad statement that foliage and flower are not in evidence at the same time, but have a sequence. In some one follows immediately or others where there are months between flowers and foliage. OR.... Catgories: A. Plants that produce foliage and flowers at different times/ seasons: 1. Foliage produced in a season before flowers ie Lycoris, Colchicum 2. Flowers produced in a season before foliage ie: Gladiolus carmineus B Flowers and foliage not synchronous, but one follows the next 1. Foliage falls as flower stalk emerges ie: ?? 2. Flowers fall as foliage emerge ie: ?? Just a thought. Others? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Sun Aug 3 12:15:19 2003 Message-Id: <20030803161518.96039.qmail@web11301.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Open house/tour Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 09:15:18 -0700 (PDT) The time and date have been set for the open house. Saturday the 9th, from 10-3. If you need directions, RSVP through email and I will send them to you. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From nsterman@plantsoup.com Sun Aug 3 12:26:25 2003 Message-Id: From: Nan Sterman Subject: Open house/tour Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 09:26:21 -0700 >The time and date have been set for the open house. >Saturday the 9th, from 10-3. If you need directions, >RSVP through email and I will send them to you. > John, I can't make it to LA on the 9th but do get there quite regularly. May I come see the garden some other time? Nan Sterman -- +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Nan Sterman Plant Soup (TM) PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 760.634.2902 (voice) NSterman@PlantSoup.Com 760.634.2957 (fax) +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= From jglatt@ptd.net Sun Aug 3 12:24:10 2003 Message-Id: <000301c359dc$adc2ae40$15d3bacc@oemcomputer> From: "Judy Glattstein" Subject: Naked flowers Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 12:31:19 -0400 Cyclamen hederifolium produces flowers in August/ September with foliage following in late September. The only colchicum I know that flowers together with its foliage is the strange, spring blooming, yellow-flowered Colchicum luteum. Many of the autumn blooming crocus lack foliage: Crocus speciosus and its cultivars for example. The much later flowering C. laevigatus fontenayi, however, does flower together with its leaves, in December/ January. Lycoris squamigera sends up pink trumpet flowers in August and foliage in spring, while L. radiate produces narrow-petalled red flowers with anthers resembling shrimp-like antenna in September, but foliage follows soon after. Judy in August-sultry New Jersey From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sun Aug 3 12:51:51 2003 Message-Id: <002401c359df$91197690$e6997ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 17:52:02 +0100 hi all Some Galanthus do it. The one I'm thinking of is G. regina-olgae and it's cultivars e.g 'Cambridge' and 17 others. The bloom in late September and October followed by leaves. Mark N Ireland From Arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 3 13:09:21 2003 Message-Id: <3F2D41C0.1080706@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Subject: Naked flowers Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 13:09:20 -0400 The other colchicums that are synanthous are colchicum kesselringii and hungaricum. Arnold From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Aug 3 19:44:20 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030803095137.00b504c0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 10:20:08 -0700 There are a few terms that refer to the presence of leaves at flowering time, and these are useful to know: anthesis: flowering, the time of flowering (e.g. "leaves present at anthesis") precocious: of flowers that appear before the leaves develop (the epithet is praecox) synanthous: of leaves that appear with the flowers hysteranthous: of leaves that develop after the flowers I am not an "expert," but I can mention that there are quite a few Crocus species that flower before the leaves are fully developed, and some before the leaves can be seen above ground. In fact, the degree of development of the leaf at anthesis is one trait by which the species are identified. Brian Mathew considers the leaves "synanthous" if even the tips are visible at flowering. He also uses the term "sub-hysteranthous," which I assume means leaves barely visible. The most obvious hysteranthous species is Crocus nudiflorus; also C. medius int he same section. C. scharojanii is said to be hysteranthous, a fact which can be confirmed by someone from the very small group (not including me) who have managed to flower it. C. kotschyanus and C. vallicola flower without their leaves up. The dry-growing crocuses of section Crocus (the saffron group) are mostly hysteranthous or nearly so. Some autumn-flowering members of section Reticulati are: C. cancellatus, C. hermoneus. The big pattern here is that fall-blooming species tend to flower before the leaves develop, though there are some fall-bloomers (C. cartwrightianus and its descendant, C. sativus or saffron, for example; or C. ochroleucus) that have visible leaves at flowering. I have a very curious Ornithogalum that covers all the bets: O. fimbriatum bears flowers on very short stems, right on the ground, in late winter; then the leaves wither; and then, in late spring, it send up a taller flowering stalk without the leaves present. Possibly this is in response to more moisture than it is accustomed to in the wild? Judy Glattstein wrote that only Colchicum luteum flowers with leaves present, but in fact there are some Colchicum species that have leaves visible at flowering; C. doerfleri comes to mind, and I seem to recall that C. kesselringii has visible leaves at its late winter flowering period. There are a number of spring-blooming colchicums, mostly quite small so not familiar in gardens. I wish the botanists would settle down and describe the genus Colchicum thoroughly so we amateurs can sort out what we are growing; a monograph has been proposed by Christopher Brickell, and Dr. Perssoon (sp.?) in Sweden has named many new species in recent years. Several species of Sternbergia flower in the nude, e.g. S. colchiciflora. And one of them never flowers at all, as far as I can tell: S. candida, and if you have flowered it, I wish you would tell me what you did to it, because I have been growing it for many years with never a bloom. Best regards, Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From jshields104@insightbb.com Sun Aug 3 13:29:18 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030803122007.02458ca0@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 12:29:16 -0500 Hi all, All the Lycoris that I have tried here bloom leafless here in Indiana in the late summer (these came from Jim Waddick): LL. sprengeri, chinensis, longituba, and caldwellii. Also, L. sanguinea and L. radiata radiata (neither from Waddick). All the autumn flowering Colchicum that I have seen flower from leafless bulbs: byzantinum, cilicicum, autumnale, speciosum, bornmeulleri. Haemanthus coccineus and H. barkerae, in late summer or autumn. Scadoxus puniceus, in very later winter or very early spring. Those occur to me off the top of my head. Jim Shields in central Indiana At 07:57 AM 8/3/2003 -0700, Mary Sue wrote: >The topic this week was inspired by an unanswered question on another bulb >list and that was which bulbs flower without leaves. This is a rather >broad question since some have leaves that grow and are dying back when >they flower. Some of these same bulbs in cultivation away from their >native habitat may still have leaves when they flower because the >conditions in cultivation are different (temperatures and more regular >amounts of moisture for instance.) Others have a dormant period, then >flower, and then produce leaves. Then there are even some interesting >combinations like Gethyllis that flower in summer without leaves, with a >fruit emerging from the ground in autumn before the leaves appear. I think >it would be worth growing just to see that happen. >......... ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From msittner@mcn.org Sun Aug 3 13:35:45 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030803101828.00d78960@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 10:33:49 -0700 Dear Jim W., Wow, you've raised some interesting questions. I tried to dodge whether to count it in the calendar year or growing season by the following statement: "For the sake of this discussion let us focus on those plants that break dormancy with flowers first followed by leaves later." If there is no sign of the plant (no flowers, no live leaves, nothing as in Amaryllis belladonna and Gladiolus carminius) and then a flower appears before the leaves then we count it. So where does that put Lycoris? I always think of the growing season beginning following dormancy, but I realize with your statement that not everyone would agree and I'm not sure how I ended up thinking that way. It is probably just what made sense to me. It makes my yearly database very strange as I am actually starting in the fall since I mostly grow winter rainfall plants. As some of the posts already indicate there may be a fine line between plants in A and B as some produce flowers and very quickly the leaves follow. If we want to change the topic to plants that produce flowers and foliage at different times that is fine with me too. It would be a good idea to decide soon however for the sake of the discussion. Mary Sue From Arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 3 13:39:24 2003 Message-Id: <3F2D48CB.10603@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 13:39:23 -0400 Here is an image of colchicum hungaricum showing flowers and leaf together. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Colchicum_hungaricum_2.JPG Arnold New Jersey From dells@voicenet.com Sun Aug 3 14:11:50 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 36 Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 14:14:00 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 36" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Mary Sue Ittner: 1. Bulblets of Leucoryne purpurea 2. Seed of Ferraria crispa var. nortieri From Lee Poulsen: 3. Seed of xHippeastralia 'Aztec Amaryllis' X Sprekelia formosissima - (Pollen parent is Sprekelia that happened to be blooming at the same time.) 4. Seed of xHippeastralia 'Red Star' open pollinated - Nothing else was blooming at the time (Hipp. or Sprekelia). This looks like a red Hipp morphed 50-50 with a Sprekelia f. 5. Cormlets of Ferraria uncinata. These are summer dormant. 6. Seed of Tecophilaea cyanocrocus leichtlinii - The form with the large white center and light sky blue color. For me they grow exactly like Cape bulbs do. Just a few seeds. 7. Seed of Tecophilaea cyanocrocus violacea - The purple flowered form. Just a few seeds. 8. Cormlets of Watsonia bulbifera. Small Watsonia, reddish orange flowers. Summer dormant. 9. Bulbs of Habranthus X - This is what Yucca Do called it, an unknown hybrid. Can't remember what it looked like. From Rob Hamilton: SEED: 10. Albuca shawii (S) 11. Arum purpureospathum (W) 12. Arisaema consanguineum (S) 13. Arisaema amurense (S) 14. Arisaema candidissimum (S) 15. Arisaema ciliatum (S) 16. Arisaema flavum (S) - the candidissimum and ciliatum parents are on the wiki. The pale ciliatum was the pollen parent so there will hopefully be a mixture of types. All except amurense and ciliatum have survived our normal rainfall during their winter dormancy. They will germinate immediately in your summer and grow on until it gets cold. 17. Colchicum corsicum (W) 18. Colchicum cupanii (W) -I havent positively confirmed the identity of my C cupanii Thank you, Mary Sue, Lee, and Rob !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Aug 3 15:40:28 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 14:40:01 -0500 >Dear Jim W., > >Wow, you've raised some interesting questions. Calendar Year/versus Growing season. I think this is a zonal problem. Here everything is basically calendar as winter stops most foliage. In Medit areas, the summer stops a lot of foliage and the season goes from fall to spring. Since this is the PACIFIC BULB SOC. -I'll bow to 'growing season' considerations. Even so Lycoris can be a bit of a problem as some mentioned with spec. such as L. radiata. One of the few to bloom in late summer/fall and then puts up foliage from late fall to early spring. Is this foliage first (spring) or flowers first -Fall? More common species produce foliage for a few months in spring, but bloom in fall. That's foliage first. > > >As some of the posts already indicate there may be a fine line >between plants in A and B as some produce flowers and very quickly >the leaves follow. > I think your idea was to concentrate on bulbs where there is a fairly major gap between foliage and bloom. And the grower needs to decide which come first seasonally or chronologically. I always think of Lycoris having foliage first and fall blooming. This is based on all species basically going dormant in spring when foliage fades. But I can see where those with fall foliage might appear to have flowers preceding foliage. Still there is a major gap and there is no remnant of foliage when the flowers bloom and that should be the key character. So the topic is: "Flowers that bloom at least a month before or after foliage". Right? Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ggroiti@mail.agro.uba.ar Sun Aug 3 17:04:28 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030803172238.009fc880@mail.agro.uba.ar> From: German Roitman Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 18:01:04 -0300 Hi all: Some species of Habranthus are a good example of plants that produce leaves, then lost there leaves and a month or 2 later they produce there flowers. This happen in H. estensis: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/habranthusestensis2.jpg H. gracilifolius: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/habranthusgracilifolius1.jpg H. pedunculosus: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/habranthuspedunculosus1.jpg H. tubispathus http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Habranthus_tubispathus.jpg It also happpen in Habranthus niveus, H. martinezii, H. versicolor, Also happen in Rhodophiala, although sometimes the second spathe is produce later when leaves have already appear. Rh. mendocina http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/rhodophialamendocina1-a.jpg Rh. bifida http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Rhodophiala-bifida-alba.jpg Never seen this feature in Zephyranthes and in the Hippeastrum from Argentina it suppose to happen in H. cybister. Best wishes Germán German Roitman mailto:groitman@mail.retina.ar mailto:roitman@agro.uba.ar From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Aug 3 17:02:07 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Bulbs that flowers without leaves TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 21:02:06 +0000 Dear all: Nerine bowdeni and the Gethyllis are plants that complicate things further as foliage production, flowering and seed setting is in different cycles. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From eagle85@flash.net Sun Aug 3 19:12:24 2003 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: New pic. Haemanthus humilis hirsutus Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 16:03:48 -0700 I have just posted a pic. of Haemanthus humilis hirsutus to the wiki. The flower is a little small, but it is the first bloom for this bulb and I want to post only flowers that bloom this year IF POSSIBLE. Doug Westfall http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Haemanthus%20humilis%20hirsutus.jpg From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Sun Aug 3 19:04:48 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030804090605.00af6d90@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:06:05 +1000 At 11:00 3/08/03 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Mary Sue; > All Lycoris have foliage FIRST, then bloom on leafless stalks. > > When you ask about bulbs that flower first, then produce >foliage or the opposite I assume you mean in a "calendar year", not a >'growing season' which can range from fall to spring in mild winter >areas. > Jim, But that also depends on your hemisphere. Here, Lycoris flower sort of March/April.... followed by the leaves later, so if you were talking calendar year that would definitely apply. I had assumed that he was referring to plants that flowered while leaves were not present, at least that seemed the logical request I though? Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From eagle85@flash.net Sun Aug 3 19:17:35 2003 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 16:08:51 -0700 Mark SmythDoug Westfall mark@marksgardenplants.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA Mark, I thought that I'd sent off this pic of one that is blooming here at the present time. Doug Westfall From lynelda@netspeed.com.au Sun Aug 3 19:27:14 2003 Message-Id: From: "Lyn Edwards" Subject: TOW Bulbs that flower without leaves Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:27:23 +1000 To add to the Galanthus that flower before leaves my small clump of G.peshmenni does this too. Also Crocus nudiflorus,Sauromattum venosum and Biarum orchidense,there must be many others within these species, Lyn Edwards Canberra From jglatt@ptd.net Sun Aug 3 20:35:50 2003 Message-Id: <000301c35a21$619b63a0$3d22bacc@oemcomputer> From: "Judy Glattstein" Subject: naked flowers Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 20:43:07 -0400 An old common name for colchicum was "the son before the father" since people were confused by flowers in fall but seeds in spring - thinking of the cycle as one that followed the calendar year. So we are not the first to be puzzled by which came first, the flower or the foliage (more euphonious than flower/ seed.) Though you would think even if they wanted to call seed = son it should have been flower = mother. Judy in thunderstorm New Jersey where surely my salvaged Lycoris squamigera will decide it's now time to wake up and flower From brutem@mcn.org Sun Aug 3 21:00:47 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030803174748.00c46850@mail.mcn.org> From: Bob Rutemoeller Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Sun, 03 Aug 2003 17:59:55 -0700 Dear All, For Watsonia bulbifera. Please be careful if you plant these out. At least along the northern California coast they are a serious invasive weed that multiplies in three different ways. Mary Sue and I could gather millions of cormlets this time of year along Highway One near Mendocino or at Salt Point State Park. But our friends in the local native plant society would put a reward on our heads if we did so to help distribute them. Bob R Honorary Bulbs Anonymous Enabler At 06:25 PM 8/3/03 -0400, you wrote: >8. Cormlets of Watsonia bulbifera. Small Watsonia, reddish orange flowers. >Summer dormant. Bob Rutemoeller brutem@mcn.org From Antennaria@aol.com Sun Aug 3 23:40:06 2003 Message-Id: <3b.3bc1846c.2c5f2f92@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 23:40:02 EDT Mary Sue wrote: > If we want to change the topic to plants that produce flowers and foliage > at different times that is fine with me too. It would be a good idea to > decide soon however for the sake of the discussion. It's an interesting problem. No one has mentioned Alliums yet, but certainly these come into play when talking about bulbs that flower without leaves. On the whole, a large number of Allium species have foliage that's in decline at the same time the flowers emerge (one of the criticisms of the genus). There are those species however, where the foliage is absent or completely withered by the time the flowers arrive. One such Allium, is the Japanese A. togasii, which flowers in late summer to early autumn. URL: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/allium/Allium_togasii_flwrs.jpg I think of this as a plant with foliage first, then flowers... but it's sort of like determining what's first, the chicken or the egg. There are many plants that have foliage for a long season, even throughout the winter, then lose the foliage before, during, or immediately after flowering, for a short dormancy of 1-2 months, then re-emerge with winter-persistant growth. This growth pattern seems to be more of a pattern of opposites... flowers... while foliar growth is in decline or absent, an issue of active growth versus dormancy. One Allium species that has foliage and flowers quite clearly delineated, is the eastern American A. tricoccum, otherwise known as "ramps". This is a shade plant with broad lily-of-the-valley like leaves in spring. The foliage dries up, but in mid summer (July) naked flower stems reach 8-10" (20-25 cm) topped with nice white flowers. Where it grows natively, it's supposed to grow by the acre. In my dryish garden, a single bulb has grown for 16 years, always showing fresh spring flowers, but this year was the second time it ever bloomed in all those years! Here's a "ok" photo showing the July bloom head. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/allium/Allium_tricoccum_1.jpg There are other alliums that produce foliage and stems in spring and into early summer... then the whole affair goes dormant... or at least gives the appearance of doing so. Specifically, Allium cupanii and A. hirtovaginatum; both Mediterranean species, come to mind. They grow in the spring, and produce sheathed buds on top of short stalks that are so thin (same thickness as the stem) that they can hardly be discerned from the stems. Sitting there now (in early August), looking like brown, dried lifeless stalks about 4-8" tall (10-20 cm), the stems are actually quite alive, and will "miraculously" emerge soon and come into late summer flowering, quite leafless and utterly interesting. While not showy, the quaint late summer or autumn blooms are dainty, surprising, and leafless. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From GardenPT@aol.com Mon Aug 4 00:22:41 2003 Message-Id: <1d0.ea829d5.2c5f398d@aol.com> From: GardenPT@aol.com Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 00:22:37 EDT Roy, > Has anyone out there had experience controlling horsetails with herbicides? > A tough weed to manage by any means. Oregon State University has a publication which may help: < http://eesc.orst.edu/agcomwebfile/edmat/html/pnw/pnw105/pnw105.html > Jean in Portland, OR From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Mon Aug 4 00:18:39 2003 Message-Id: From: Roy Sachs Subject: Equisetum control Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 21:28:51 -0700 Has anyone out there had experience controlling horsetails with herbicides? The more I pull them up the more that rhizome growth is stimulated rhizome or something wild is happening since the area of infestation has expanded at least 5-fold in five years. From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 4 03:08:58 2003 Message-Id: <002601c35a57$5447c4b0$c2cc7ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:08:50 +0100 > Leucojum roseum is in flower as I write, triggered by watering. No > leaves yet. Ditto for L. autumnale. very strange! My L autumnale is always in leaf Mark N Ireland From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 4 03:18:16 2003 Message-Id: <008901c35a58$9a864ae0$c2cc7ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Lycoris Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:17:52 +0100 hi all 2 years ago I received Lycoris as a trade from some friends in the USA. These have so far never bloomed and gave never come into leaf yet the bulbs are healthy. Any ideas what is going on? Mark N Ireland zone 8 From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Mon Aug 4 05:06:51 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030804190815.0098aeb0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 19:08:15 +1000 At 08:08 4/08/03 +0100, you wrote: >> Leucojum roseum is in flower as I write, triggered by watering. No >> leaves yet. Ditto for L. autumnale. > >very strange! My L autumnale is always in leaf > Mark, I'm sort of glad that ours aren't. One of the things I love about L. autumnale is that there is absolutely nothing there in early summer (be it in pots or the ground, sun or dappled shade) then suddenly over the space of a couple of days flowers scapes appear in profusion. You end up with these little flowers floating all over the place, but no foliage to "link" to them. I really love them this way. Fascinating that yours never lose their foliage though. I didn't realise that these are only deciduous due to climatic conditions rather than internal seasonal "clocks". Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From dejager@bulbargence.com Mon Aug 4 05:48:53 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E2B4A.8020601@bulbargence.com> From: Lauw Dejager Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 11:45:46 +0200 Dear Roy and Jane, As it is completely resistant t it has becoe the only weeds which is a problem here. Repaited traitments with the contact acting Grammoxone seems to have some results. Kind regards Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence GardenPT@aol.com wrote: Has anyone out there had experience controlling horsetails with herbicides? From dejager@bulbargence.com Mon Aug 4 05:49:54 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E2B8D.6060604@bulbargence.com> From: Lauw Dejager Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 11:46:53 +0200 Dear Bob, Thanks for your note. I have got a stock here, but your posting assured me in refraining from putting it in my catalog. However last year August I noticed in Holland a field of one acre with Watsonia bulbifera, which they intend to put on the market soon. How and who can prevent them from doing so? Kind regards Lauw deJager Bulb'Argence Bob Rutemoeller wrote: For Watsonia bulbifera. Please be careful if you plant these out. At > least along the northern California coast they are a serious invasive > weed that multiplies in three different ways. Mary Sue and I could > gather millions of cormlets this time of year along Highway One near > Mendocino or at Salt Point State Park. But our friends in the local > native plant society would put a reward on our heads if we did so to > help distribute them. From dells@voicenet.com Mon Aug 4 08:44:59 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: seeds Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 08:47:02 -0400 Dear All, I received this message privately and wish to share it with you in case any of you wish to help Dr. Przybyla. Regards, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX > Dr. Andrzej A. Przybyla > Warsaw Agricultural University > Faculty of Horticulture and > Landscape Architecture > Warsaw, Poland > > to: Dell Sherk, USA > > Dear Sir, > > I found your e-mail address in Seed Inventory (I was member of International > Bulb Society). Would you like to help me with some seeds of Rodophiala > pratense (=Hippeastrum pratense)? I need them for investigations. Or, if you > haven't, would you like to indicate a person, that can have seeds of this > species? I'm looking forward to your reply. Best regards- Andrzej. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 4 09:11:54 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris & dormany Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:00:57 -0500 >2 years ago I received Lycoris as a trade from some friends in the USA. >These have so far never bloomed and gave never come into leaf yet the bulbs >are healthy. Any ideas what is going on? Dear MArk; You didn't mention what time of year you received and planted the bulbs. Lycoris dormancy is brief in mid-summmer even though they may have been leafless for weeks before and after. Also bulbs dug, dried and rootless are even more stressed. Also what species. I have had apparently healthy bulbs sit underground for up to 3 years - possbly growing new rots and 'settling' before putting up healthy foliage and flowers. L. chinensi ans L caldwellii both have done this. Speaking of Lycoris; Although we are experiencing a severe drought (officially proclaimed along with a couple dozen neighboring counties in NW Missouri. The July rain fall was the lowest on record with .1 inch for the entire month.), I have noticed L. squamigera blooming around town , probably where lawn sprinklers catch it. In my parched garden I have a couple L. sanguinea in bloom and a few stalks popping out of L. squamigera. I was fairly certain that bloom was triggered by fall rain after a hot dry, but maybe not. See what blooms and IF it EVER rains. back to the frawing board. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jshields104@insightbb.com Mon Aug 4 09:03:45 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030804080259.022d3b78@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 08:03:44 -0500 Hi Lauw, Could you tell us please what the active chemical component of Grammoxone is? Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 11:45 AM 8/4/2003 +0200, you wrote: >Dear Roy and Jane, > As it is completely resistant t it has becoe the only weeds which is a >problem here. Repaited traitments with the contact acting Grammoxone >seems to have some results. >Kind regards >Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence > >GardenPT@aol.com wrote: > >Has anyone out there had experience controlling horsetails with herbicides? > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 4 09:12:06 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinums blooming oddly Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 08:10:16 -0500 Dear all; Hardy Crinums have become a special addition to the garden This year has been exceptional and odd. Both my oldest x powelli and alba have bloomed like crazy this year and continue to put up scape after scape. Dozens and dozens, but the flowers seem smaller and less open than usual. This may be a result of an odd season with rain very early and now severe drought. C. bulbispermum bloomed heavily too, but have not put up later scapes as I recall them doing in wetter years. 'Catherine' - my all time favorite put up a bounty of stalks, but they all fell over just prior to bloom, twisted and flopped - not pretty. Another drought result? Now 'Cecil Houdyshel' (another xpowelli cross) is blooming better than ever -more stalks, longer bloom, bigger flowers etc. 'Ellen Bousanquet' has yet to pop up a single scape not most other named cvs. I don't see a pattern here, except to chalk it up to the extremes of rain/drought. I know we need some rain - serious E. Coast rain - but the Crinums do continue to put on a show by sheer numbers of flowers. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Mon Aug 4 10:13:44 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E6A08.60207@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:13:28 -0500 Mary Sue: I've just returned from out-of-town to find a bunch of interesting messages hitting and missing (i.e. discussion of other species) on my favorite subject, Lycoris. Being a late arrival, I hope what follows isn't just a rehash. I consider all Lycoris to fit very well into the flowering without leaves category. I have heard of Lycoris radiata holding foliage through to bloom in the Houston area, but I have never seen this, nor do I know if it is true. The fall foliage group of Lycoris seem to fit the "breaking dormancy with bloom" category the best of the Lycoris, but, as has been said, some of these will still bloom weeks ahead of the first sign of foliage. In all cases, though, I would not consider the bloom to be the ACTUAL initiator of the new growing season, but the foliage. Of course, spring foliage species won't begin to show foliage until late winter. Generally speaking, most Lycoris will not have foliage until the bloom spike has at least initiated growth. As has been said before, probably by Jim W., Lycoris can take some time to "find their feet", especially if received in a state stripped of their roots. Even dormant, these bulbs do not actually lose their roots, so to receive them in a rootless state seems to require the gardener be patient in letting the bulb spend a season (or even 2), establishing a good root system. Last year, I purchases L. squamigera from a local grower, dug them in July and replanted within a few days. Foliage reached about half-height this spring, bloom is sporadic now and at half to 3/4 height. Who knows how much time one might take to adjust to a different hemisphere. I have found Lycoris to be EXTREMELY tough bulbs to kill, though, which is much appreciated by me, a green thumb with plenty of brown mottled throughout. L. squamigera first flush are in full bloom at this moment. Second flush should begin bloom this week. L. longituba is just now sending up spikes (one has bloomed already). I had a sole spike of L. sanguinea var. kiusiana bloom last week and L. sanguinea (probably var. sanguinea) should begin blooming this week (only one spike so far). I have had a very small lot of these, but just received a new shipment to be planted in the next few weeks. L. xhaywardii are done for the season, L. straminea is in bloom and L. xhoudyshelii, also. I'm in Lycoris heaven right now. I sure would like to find a good source (50-1000 bulbs) for Lycoris incarnata (peppermint surprise lily). Leads would be appreciated very much. Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Dear All, > > The topic this week was inspired by an unanswered question on another > bulb list and that was which bulbs flower without leaves. -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 10:50:31 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E7139.7D2CEAD0@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 07:44:09 -0700 Dear Bob: Watsonia bulbifera is now W. meriana, I understand your concern, but find it pleasant to see these flower along Highway 1. I notice these seem to do well in shade, but seldom do I see them taller than some 36 inches. Perhaps they are natural hybrids with the form known previously as W. coccinea which is much shorter in height. I wonder when they started to go "native". Cheers, John E. Bryan Bob Rutemoeller wrote: > > Dear All, > > For Watsonia bulbifera. Please be careful if you plant these out. At least > along the northern California coast they are a serious invasive weed that > multiplies in three different ways. Mary Sue and I could gather millions of > cormlets this time of year along Highway One near Mendocino or at Salt > Point State Park. But our friends in the local native plant society would > put a reward on our heads if we did so to help distribute them. > > Bob R > Honorary Bulbs Anonymous Enabler > > At 06:25 PM 8/3/03 -0400, you wrote: > >8. Cormlets of Watsonia bulbifera. Small Watsonia, reddish orange flowers. > >Summer dormant. > > Bob Rutemoeller > brutem@mcn.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshields104@insightbb.com Mon Aug 4 10:57:28 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030804094750.0224dfd8@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 09:57:27 -0500 Hi all, I have two pots of Nerine krigei sending up scapes. These have bloomed before, and I have old pictures at URL = http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/nerine.html I have several large batches of bulbs of Nerine angulata, but I just now have the very first scape any of them have produced. I guess they were not up to blooming size until now. I'm really looking forward to seeing it bloom. I gather that this species has been sunk into N. angustifolia. NN. gracilis and rehmannii are in bloom. This is the first bloom of N. gracilis I've ever seen. The flowers are tiny. I will post pictures of all these when I get them. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From ggroiti@mail.agro.uba.ar Mon Aug 4 11:07:07 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030804120003.00be1c88@mail.agro.uba.ar> From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Germ=E1n?= Roitman Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 12:06:56 -0300 Hi all: During april 2003 i travel to the north of Corrientes, Argentina and i found this small place after a very recent fire, here you can see two bulb plants: Rhodophiala bifida with red flowers: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/rhodophiala_bifida5.JPG and Habranthus pedunculosus http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/habranthus_pedunculosus.JPG As you can see in this last picture it flower with leaves although even under culture it usually dont. For our experience some species, specially Habranthus use to flower without leaves in the wild but flower with leaves under culture, that was the opposite case. Best wishes Germán _______________________________________ Ing. Agr. MSc Germán Roitman mailto:groitman@mail.retina.ar Cátedra de Jardinería FAUBA Av. San Martín 4453. 1417. Buenos Aires Argentina ICQ: 1837762 _______________________________________ From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 11:14:43 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E76E5.4EEECA7F@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Watsonia bulbifera (W. meriana) Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 08:08:21 -0700 Dear Lauw: Just how hardy this species is I do not know. I would like to try some in both Brittany and Normandy. Can I obtain some from you and have you ship them there? In Brittany, where my garden recently won the prize as the best new garden, I have places where it can go to town if it can survive. do let me know. Cheers, John E. Bryan Lauw Dejager wrote: > > Dear Bob, > Thanks for your note. I have got a stock here, but your posting > assured me in refraining from putting it in my catalog. However last > year August I noticed in Holland a field of one acre with Watsonia > bulbifera, which they intend to put on the market soon. How and who can > prevent them from doing so? > > Kind regards > > Lauw deJager Bulb'Argence > > Bob Rutemoeller wrote: > > For Watsonia bulbifera. Please be careful if you plant these out. At > > least along the northern California coast they are a serious invasive > > weed that multiplies in three different ways. Mary Sue and I could > > gather millions of cormlets this time of year along Highway One near > > Mendocino or at Salt Point State Park. But our friends in the local > > native plant society would put a reward on our heads if we did so to > > help distribute them. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Mon Aug 4 11:16:00 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030804075829.00d82f00@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 08:14:37 -0700 Dear John, The Watsonias are crowding out the beautiful native plants along highway One. I know that you have a fondness for Watsonia, but this one because it produces all those cormlets in the stalk and seed and expands below as well is a menace. The cormlets get projected out a way and soon the area expands dramatically so all you see for quite a distance is Watsonia and much of the year dead Watsonia leaves which aren't attractive at all. No one comes along the road to cut back those leaves and destroy the corms so every year they expand. And to my mind the flower on this species is not dramatic for very long. It is rare that I have seen it looking very attractive when I have passed it on the highway. There are some Watsonias that have also naturalized along our coast that are really very pretty for several weeks in the spring. Their clumps expand where they have been planted, but you don't see the area around them in every direction become solid Watsonias. I wish there was a way that nurseries were prohibited from selling this species to anyone in California and hope Lee will never plant his out. When I explained the problem to Jim Duggan he took this species out of his catalog and I appreciate Lauw doing this as well. If we know that a plant can be a problem in one temperate Mediterranean climate it seems important to do what we can to prevent it becoming a problem in any others. Mary Sue From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 11:43:45 2003 Message-Id: <3F2E7DB5.936ECE1A@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 08:37:25 -0700 Dear Mary Sue: Thanks for your message. I understand your point of view. But where does one stop? There are so many trees, as an example, that are not native to the area along Highway 1, should they be removed as well? These are perhaps even more detrimental to native flora. Development along this highway is also causing problems. I understand your concern, but also feel the funds needed to eradicate such a problem as the watsonias, could be better used to protect other areas. A dilemma I know, wish there was an answer that considered all such aspects of eradication of foreign flora and other problems that disturb the flora. Cheers, John E. Bryan Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > > Dear John, > > The Watsonias are crowding out the beautiful native plants along highway > One. I know that you have a fondness for Watsonia, but this one because it > produces all those cormlets in the stalk and seed and expands below as well > is a menace. The cormlets get projected out a way and soon the area expands > dramatically so all you see for quite a distance is Watsonia and much of > the year dead Watsonia leaves which aren't attractive at all. No one comes > along the road to cut back those leaves and destroy the corms so every year > they expand. And to my mind the flower on this species is not dramatic for > very long. It is rare that I have seen it looking very attractive when I > have passed it on the highway. There are some Watsonias that have also > naturalized along our coast that are really very pretty for several weeks > in the spring. Their clumps expand where they have been planted, but you > don't see the area around them in every direction become solid Watsonias. > > I wish there was a way that nurseries were prohibited from selling this > species to anyone in California and hope Lee will never plant his > out. When I explained the problem to Jim Duggan he took this species out > of his catalog and I appreciate Lauw doing this as well. If we know that a > plant can be a problem in one temperate Mediterranean climate it seems > important to do what we can to prevent it becoming a problem in any others. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Mon Aug 4 12:35:42 2003 Message-Id: From: "Roy M. Sachs" Subject: Watsonia bulbifera & climate Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 09:36:32 -0700 Mary Sue: I've been growing W. bulbifera, or maybe W. coccinea, in Davis for years with no apparent bulbil formation up on the inflorescence axis...it's not invasive here, and so far it hasn't spread in the Russian river planting. But I do remove the corms every so often for sale (right now I'm embarrassed and will delete it from catalog, depending on answer to question below). Is it possible that the orangish Watsonia that I have is not bulbifera or that it is a question of climate that determines bulbil formation? Roy >I wish there was a way that nurseries were prohibited from selling >this species to anyone in California and hope Lee will never plant >his out. When I explained the problem to Jim Duggan he took this >species out of his catalog and I appreciate Lauw doing this as well. >If we know that a plant can be a problem in one temperate >Mediterranean climate it seems important to do what we can to >prevent it becoming a problem in any others. > >Mary Sue > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From valden@vectis52.freeserve.co.uk Mon Aug 4 13:44:23 2003 Message-Id: <003901c35ab0$08917440$b66c883e@deny471g8xq1jy> From: "Den Wilson" Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 18:42:14 +0100 Roy, My sympathy! Horsetail is notorious as one of the most difficult weeds to eradicate and I believe it has managed to hang on since the age of the dinosaurs. Trying to pull it up or dig it out is useless but the following treatment works well: Firstly, do not treat until the plant is fully grown in late summer because you need as much growth as you can get to absorb the herbicide. Then thrash (bruise) the stems and leaves with twigs (this breaks up the waxy surface). Then mix a systemic herbicide with a mix of light cooking-oil and white-spirit or turpentine (any light oil will do) until it is thin enough to spray and use it in place of the recommended water quantity. Finally, spray the mixture thoroughly over the whole plant. The oil/spirit mix will ensure that the herbicide is in contact with the plant for a sufficient period to kill it and it is rain-proof. There is also a giant, non-invasive form of this plant which looks absolutely magnificent. Good luck. Den. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Aug 4 20:48:49 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030804120134.00b46dd8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 12:03:01 -0700 Mark in N. Ireland wrote,At 08:08 AM 8/4/2003 +0100, you wrote: > > Leucojum roseum is in flower as I write, triggered by watering. No > > leaves yet. Ditto for L. autumnale. > >very strange! My L autumnale is always in leaf If you keep watering Leucojum autumnale in the summer, it will hardly have a dormant season at all. Gardens in this area where it is watered have it in full bloom today, but those that are infesting my bulb frame (it is invasive) are neither in leaf nor in flower, though they have "live" roots. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon Aug 4 15:05:45 2003 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 12:05:36 -0700 Mary Sue (and Bob), I'm glad you pointed this out. I had no idea of the problem with this particular species in mediterranean climates! I only have a single pot of it, and it did form some corms along the stalk here as well. I also personally didn't think it looked as good in flower as many other Watsonias do. But since I know that some things are a matter of personal taste, and that some people want to try new things or get every species in a given genus, I didn't want the extra corms, so I sent them to Dell. Of course those who have to give it protection won't have a problem with it. But I think I'm just going to dispose of the whole plant. I'm not sure where I got the originals from--it was from some online offer--but no one mentioned its problems then... Thanks again, --Lee >Dear John, > >The Watsonias are crowding out the beautiful native plants along >highway One. I know that you have a fondness for Watsonia, but this >one because it produces all those cormlets in the stalk and seed and >expands below as well is a menace. The cormlets get projected out a >way and soon the area expands dramatically so all you see for quite >a distance is Watsonia and much of the year dead Watsonia leaves >which aren't attractive at all. No one comes along the road to cut >back those leaves and destroy the corms so every year they expand. >And to my mind the flower on this species is not dramatic for very >long. It is rare that I have seen it looking very attractive when I >have passed it on the highway. There are some Watsonias that have >also naturalized along our coast that are really very pretty for >several weeks in the spring. Their clumps expand where they have >been planted, but you don't see the area around them in every >direction become solid Watsonias. > >I wish there was a way that nurseries were prohibited from selling >this species to anyone in California and hope Lee will never plant >his out. When I explained the problem to Jim Duggan he took this >species out of his catalog and I appreciate Lauw doing this as well. >If we know that a plant can be a problem in one temperate >Mediterranean climate it seems important to do what we can to >prevent it becoming a problem in any others. > >Mary Sue > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From angelopalm69@inwind.it Mon Aug 4 15:14:59 2003 Message-Id: <003101c35abc$724ff4e0$7eb0623e@f1q3z7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Colchicum cupanii Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 21:13:10 +0200 Hi Dell, you could check my photos of Colchicum cupanii on the gallery of the IBS. If you have photos of yours, I could identify it. BTW, this species push flowers and leaves ( usually 2) together. Angelo Porcelli Italy From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Mon Aug 4 15:12:35 2003 Message-Id: From: "Roy M. Sachs" Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 12:15:14 -0700 Thanks to Den, Jean and Lauw for advice. For those interested in herbicides as aids in the control of horsetails: a) Grammoxone is sold in the US as paraquat. b) The Oregon State web site refers to a Pacific Northwest weed control handbook because herbicide permits change frequently and I suspect that will be the case in CA. c) I did a web crawl on equisetum control and found most recommendations for Casoron (dichlobenil is vulgar chemical name), Of course, the horsetail shoots are right in middle of clumps of good geophytes (common habit of all weeds, no?) so the herbicide will have to be painted on the slightly thrashed horsetail shoots. >Firstly, do not treat until the plant is fully grown in late summer because >you need as much growth as you can get to absorb the herbicide. Then thrash >(bruise) the stems and leaves with twigs (this breaks up the waxy surface). >Then mix a systemic herbicide with a mix of light cooking-oil and >white-spirit or turpentine (any light oil will do) until it is thin enough >to spray and use it in place of the recommended water quantity. Finally, >spray the mixture thoroughly over the whole plant. The oil/spirit mix will >ensure that the herbicide is in contact with the plant for a sufficient >period to kill it and it is rain-proof. > >There is also a giant, non-invasive form of this plant which looks >absolutely magnificent. > >Good luck. > >Den. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Mon Aug 4 17:06:36 2003 Message-Id: <20030804210635.19265.qmail@web40503.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: "The Bulb Garden" Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:06:35 -0700 (PDT) I too received my newsletter on friday, in so california L.A. county Douglas Westfall wrote:Marguerite EnglishDoug Westfall meenglis@cts.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > Dear PBS members: > I mailed out the newsletters on Wednesday and Thursday this week, so > you should be receiving yours soon. It arrived in So CA on 8/1/03 Doug Westfall _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Ann Marie Rametta So. California, San Gabriel Valley, Zone 21 (Sunset Western Garden book) , influenced by both marine and interior air(Santa Ana winds). This makes it perfect for Citrus trees, Lilacs, some tropical plants and most So African plants. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 4 18:10:24 2003 Message-Id: <011e01c35ad5$3cd4f8b0$34457ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 23:10:07 +0100 the moist Irish climate and the summer-dry climate of the Pacific slope. If only it were true this year. We are having the best summer since '76 or there about. High 70s for days on end and lack of rain. My peat bed is very dry and most plants are suffering except my snowdrop beds which are planted with South African daisies like Gazania and Arctotis to keep Narcissus fly away. Right now it's 23.10 and 70F Mark N Ireland From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Mon Aug 4 18:29:19 2003 Message-Id: <3F2EDCC2.62D71B45@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 04 Aug 2003 15:22:58 -0700 Dear All: I think paraquat is now banned. Cheers, John E. Bryan "Roy M. Sachs" wrote: > > Thanks to Den, Jean and Lauw for advice. > > For those interested in herbicides as aids in the control of horsetails: > > a) Grammoxone is sold in the US as paraquat. > > b) The Oregon State web site refers to a Pacific Northwest weed > control handbook because herbicide permits change frequently and I > suspect that will be the case in CA. > > c) I did a web crawl on equisetum control and found most > recommendations for Casoron (dichlobenil is vulgar chemical name), > > Of course, the horsetail shoots are right in middle of clumps of good > geophytes (common habit of all weeds, no?) so the herbicide will have > to be painted on the slightly thrashed horsetail shoots. > > >Firstly, do not treat until the plant is fully grown in late summer because > >you need as much growth as you can get to absorb the herbicide. Then thrash > >(bruise) the stems and leaves with twigs (this breaks up the waxy surface). > >Then mix a systemic herbicide with a mix of light cooking-oil and > >white-spirit or turpentine (any light oil will do) until it is thin enough > >to spray and use it in place of the recommended water quantity. Finally, > >spray the mixture thoroughly over the whole plant. The oil/spirit mix will > >ensure that the herbicide is in contact with the plant for a sufficient > >period to kill it and it is rain-proof. > > > >There is also a giant, non-invasive form of this plant which looks > >absolutely magnificent. > > > >Good luck. > > > >Den. > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 4 19:32:16 2003 Message-Id: <014301c35ae0$a139f4d0$34457ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Lycoris & dormany Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 00:31:32 +0100 ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 2:00 PM Subject: [pbs] Lycoris & dormany > >2 years ago I received Lycoris as a trade from some friends in the USA. > >These have so far never bloomed and gave never come into leaf yet the bulbs > >are healthy. Any ideas what is going on? > > Dear MArk; > You didn't mention what time of year you received and planted > the bulbs. Lycoris dormancy is brief in mid-summmer even though they > may have been leafless for weeks before and after. Also bulbs dug, > dried and rootless are even more stressed. Also what species. I have > had apparently healthy bulbs sit underground for up to 3 years - > possbly growing new rots and 'settling' before putting up healthy > foliage and flowers. L. chinensi ans L caldwellii both have done this. > > Speaking of Lycoris; > > Although we are experiencing a severe drought (officially > proclaimed along with a couple dozen neighboring counties in NW > Missouri. The July rain fall was the lowest on record with .1 inch > for the entire month.), I have noticed L. squamigera blooming around > town , probably where lawn sprinklers catch it. In my parched garden > I have a couple L. sanguinea in bloom and a few stalks popping out of > L. squamigera. > I was fairly certain that bloom was triggered by fall rain > after a hot dry, but maybe not. See what blooms and IF it EVER rains. > back to the frawing board. > > Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > E-fax 419-781-8594 > > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From mark@marksgardenplants.com Mon Aug 4 19:35:07 2003 Message-Id: <015101c35ae1$064b5e90$34457ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Lycoris & dormany Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 00:34:30 +0100 oops I forgot the message. My bulbs are Lycoris radiata. Mark N Ireland > > Dear MArk; > > You didn't mention what time of year you received and planted > > the bulbs. Lycoris dormancy is brief in mid-summmer even though they > > may have been leafless for weeks before and after. Also bulbs dug, > > dried and rootless are even more stressed. Also what species. I have > > had apparently healthy bulbs sit underground for up to 3 years - > > possbly growing new rots and 'settling' before putting up healthy > > foliage and flowers. L. chinensi ans L caldwellii both have done this. > > > > Speaking of Lycoris; > > > > Although we are experiencing a severe drought (officially > > proclaimed along with a couple dozen neighboring counties in NW > > Missouri. The July rain fall was the lowest on record with .1 inch > > for the entire month.), I have noticed L. squamigera blooming around > > town , probably where lawn sprinklers catch it. In my parched garden > > I have a couple L. sanguinea in bloom and a few stalks popping out of > > L. squamigera. > > I was fairly certain that bloom was triggered by fall rain > > after a hot dry, but maybe not. See what blooms and IF it EVER rains. > > back to the frawing board. > > > > Jim W. > > -- > > Dr. James W. Waddick > > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > > USA > > Ph. 816-746-1949 > > E-fax 419-781-8594 > > > > Zone 5 Record low -23F > > Summer 100F + > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Aug 4 20:00:25 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Watsonia meriana ssp. bulbillifera Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 00:00:24 +0000 Dear all: This cormlet production along the stalk is genetic and characteristic of the salmon form of Watsonia meriana (hence the name bulbillifera, not "bulbifera"). The other color forms of Watsonia meriana (not invasive). are well behaved and flower for a longer season. This plant is not only a potential menace in Mediterranean type climates. In E. Uruguay and some mild spots of Argentina it can cover considerable extensions and is not controlled by our year round rains as other South African bulbous plants. And, Mary Sue, the solution would be to spray the plants with glyphosate whem they are in full growth at flowering time. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Aug 4 20:19:45 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves- TOW Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 00:19:43 +0000 Dear all: There are two forms of Leucojum autumnale, one that flowers "naked", before foliage (var. oporanthum), and the other with foliage and flowers at the same time (var. pulchellum), so both Paul and Mark are right. A number of plants flower when the foliage is dry at the end of the growing cycle, like Dichelostemmas, Brodiaeas, and Triteleias. Here in South America Leucocorynes and Conantheras behave likewise. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From GardenPT@aol.com Tue Aug 5 00:55:47 2003 Message-Id: <4b.321b8bab.2c6092cc@aol.com> From: GardenPT@aol.com Subject: Equisetum control -- paraquat Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 00:55:40 EDT Rather than banned, it's a restricted chemical. > I think paraquat is now banned. From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Tue Aug 5 07:25:35 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030805212658.009dcbf0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves- TOW Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 21:26:58 +1000 At 12:19 5/08/03 +0000, you wrote: >Dear all: > There are two forms of Leucojum autumnale, one that flowers >"naked", before foliage (var. oporanthum), and the other with foliage and >flowers at the same time (var. pulchellum), so both Paul and Mark are right. Alberto, Thanks for that. Very glad to know that. I read the comment about "year around watering" meaning that it is never dormant...... mine are in pots or the ground and get year around watering and they most definitely DO go dormant . Interesting to know that there is this variance. Are these natural varieties or were they separated within cultivated plants? Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Tue Aug 5 07:38:26 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030805213949.009dbd40@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 21:39:49 +1000 Jim, > >I have two pots of Nerine krigei sending up scapes. These have bloomed >before, and I have old pictures at URL = >http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/nerine.html Lovely. The flower looks very similar to Nerine humilis as far as I can tell. I love the wonderful twisted foliage of N. krigei but have never flowered mine yet (neither purchased bulbs or the 3 seedlings I have) > >I have several large batches of bulbs of Nerine angulata, but I just now >have the very first scape any of them have produced. I guess they were not >up to blooming size until now. I'm really looking forward to seeing it >bloom. I gather that this species has been sunk into N. angustifolia. Nerine angulata is one of my favourite species of Nerine that I grow here. It flower religiously every year, which can't be said for that many of the Nerines when grown in pots. This one has had a LOT of stems produced each year.... this year there were 15 scapes from a 7 inch squat pot that was not repotted after last years flowering. I find that this is pretty much evergreen, at least it has been whenever i have looked. Lovely shape to the flower and as I said, very floriforous. I am unfamiliar with N. angustifolia > >NN. gracilis and rehmannii are in bloom. This is the first bloom of N. >gracilis I've ever seen. The flowers are tiny. I have never come across either of these names but would definitely be interested in seeing pictures of either/both when in flower. Have you flowered Nerine masoniorum? The flowers on it are absolutely amazing to me (my other favourite species nerine.... although I was pretty taken with Nerine undulata when it flowered this year ) as they are perfectly formed but only around 1cm wide, with gorgeous rippled edges to the petals. How does N. gracilis compare to this (if you have flowered it)? I have had NN. bowdenii (some variety or other, who knows), bowdenii 'Winter Cheer', fothergilli 'Major', flexuosa 'alba' (or is this now undulata 'alba' as I have heard, but cannot at all understand the reasoning for), undulata, filamentosa, masoniorum, angulata, filifolia, humilis and pudica flower for me here, but have not yet flowered krigei, fothergilli 'Minor' and umtata (I have heard differing reports on umtata being a synonym or form of another species?). I also have a heap of different hybrids that flower well for me, plus the odd different form of bowdenii. They are such a wonderfully varies genus and I love them dearly.... plus they are a tough as nails which can be rather handy!! Lovely to see your pic of krigei as I am hoping it will flower one of these years. As I said above.... please post more pics when you have them. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 5 08:37:12 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaes TOW Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 12:37:10 +0000 Hi Paul: Both forms of Leucojum autumnale come from different regions of the Mediterranean. It is the environment that prompted them to behave that way (lack of water I mean). I grow both forms and they behave exactly as described but during summer both go to sleep and have no leaves at all. This despite the fact that they are in the open in a raised bed and receive our year round rains. I really wish they would invade my beds like Jane's! They grow well here but are not invasive. Best regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 5 09:07:22 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 36 CLOSED Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 09:09:09 -0400 Dear All, Packages should go out on Wednesday. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue Aug 5 09:25:53 2003 Message-Id: <000001c35b55$0d895e40$6401a8c0@DCM28D21> From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves TOW - Leucojum autumnale and Sternbergia candida Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 09:25:34 -0400 Alberto's comments about varieties of Leucojum autumnale are very interesting. I grow vars. autumnale, oporanthum and pulchellum here (in name at least, although the sources were reliable) and they all flower at the same time, give or take a few days, and without leaves, which follow shortly thereafter. Flowering appears to be stimulated by watering in September, which also presumably drops the compost temperature in the pot. I keep them dry in the summer. Bulbs outside have done very badly. A large clump flowered beautifully a few years ago but the leaves were completely trashed by snow and ice (not cold air) and the bulbs died out soon after. In answer to Jane's question - I grow and flower Sternbergia candida reliably outside, but it isn't totally hardy here. Last year I lost 2 of 3 bulbs in one spot, but the third made 4 or 5 good-sized offsets. J. Dr John T Lonsdale, 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From jshields104@insightbb.com Tue Aug 5 09:58:49 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030805081245.00b07e80@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 08:58:47 -0500 Paul, N. krigei needs a winter cold period in order to bloom the following season. Try storing them in the fridge for a month or so in mid-winter. I had thought that some of them might need hot summer temperatures to bring on bloom, but now I'm not so sure about that. We are seeing more bloom this summer than usual in the Nerine, and it has been very mild overall, only a couple of days reached 90 F (32 C). We have also had plenty of rain here, which may be encouraging the summer growers. I have one N. gracilis in flower, and several pots of N. rehmannii starting to bloom. I should get a picture of at least the rehmannii to post to the Bulbs_Images list. Graham Duncan's nice little book called "Grow Nerines" is terrific for all the name changes. However, "Nerine umtata" is not indexed, not even as a synonym. In my climate, hybrids of N. sarniensis are difficult, even in pots. I am not sure how one should get them through a Midwestern summer in condition to bloom in the Fall. Mine rarely do bloom, and a couple die each year. N. 'Pink Triumph' is not prone to die, but it blooms only occasionally. I'm told that 'Pink Triumph' is a hybrid of sarniensis and perhaps something like flexuosa. In any case, it is very unhappy here if you try to grow it on the N. bowdenii calendar. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 09:39 PM 8/5/2003 +1000, you wrote: >Jim, > > > > >I have two pots of Nerine krigei sending up scapes. These have bloomed > >before, and I have old pictures at URL = > >http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/nerine.html > >Lovely. The flower looks very similar to Nerine humilis as far as I can >tell. I love the wonderful twisted foliage of N. krigei but have never >flowered mine yet (neither purchased bulbs or the 3 seedlings I have) > > > > >I have several large batches of bulbs of Nerine angulata, but I just now > >have the very first scape any of them have produced. I guess they were not > >up to blooming size until now. I'm really looking forward to seeing it > >bloom. I gather that this species has been sunk into N. angustifolia. > >Nerine angulata is one of my favourite species of Nerine that I grow here. >It flower religiously every year, which can't be said for that many of the >Nerines when grown in pots. This one has had a LOT of stems produced each >year.... this year there were 15 scapes from a 7 inch squat pot that was >not repotted after last years flowering. I find that this is pretty much >evergreen, at least it has been whenever i have looked. Lovely shape to >the flower and as I said, very floriforous. I am unfamiliar with N. >angustifolia > > > > >NN. gracilis and rehmannii are in bloom. This is the first bloom of N. > >gracilis I've ever seen. The flowers are tiny. > >I have never come across either of these names but would definitely be >interested in seeing pictures of either/both when in flower. Have you >flowered Nerine masoniorum? The flowers on it are absolutely amazing to me >(my other favourite species nerine.... although I was pretty taken with >Nerine undulata when it flowered this year ) as they are perfectly >formed but only around 1cm wide, with gorgeous rippled edges to the petals. > How does N. gracilis compare to this (if you have flowered it)? > >I have had NN. bowdenii (some variety or other, who knows), bowdenii >'Winter Cheer', fothergilli 'Major', flexuosa 'alba' (or is this now >undulata 'alba' as I have heard, but cannot at all understand the reasoning >for), undulata, filamentosa, masoniorum, angulata, filifolia, humilis and >pudica flower for me here, but have not yet flowered krigei, fothergilli >'Minor' and umtata (I have heard differing reports on umtata being a >synonym or form of another species?). I also have a heap of different >hybrids that flower well for me, plus the odd different form of bowdenii. >They are such a wonderfully varies genus and I love them dearly.... plus >they are a tough as nails which can be rather handy!! > >Lovely to see your pic of krigei as I am hoping it will flower one of these >years. As I said above.... please post more pics when you have them. > >Cheers. > >Paul Tyerman >Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 >mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au > >Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, >Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about >anything else that doesn't move!!!!! > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From msittner@mcn.org Tue Aug 5 10:30:26 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030805071618.00d8fe90@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Leucojum Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 07:21:46 -0700 Dear All, My Leucojums are blooming too. L. roseum I saw yesterday had spikes. L. autmnale has been blooming for awhile. Interestingly the Leucojum autumnale I put in the ground died out just like John's from a whole different climate, but mine in pots are doing very well. Mine never quite lose all their leaves, just most of them but that may be because I never have stopped watering them completely either since I thought perhaps they needed water since they were still green. Definitely they don't get much water in summer however and for two years now L. autumnale has started blooming in July. Next year maybe I'll try withholding water completely now that I have learned that they can survive that. I thought perhaps they had perennial roots. Mary Sue From msittner@mcn.org Tue Aug 5 10:30:27 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030805072305.00d915d0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves TOW Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 07:29:44 -0700 Dear All, Thanks for all the wonderful information everyone has been supplying about bulbs that flower without leaves. It is interesting to note the climate differences. My first Cyclamen hederifolium started blooming in July which seemed early and there are no leaves in sight. Doug can you tell us which Haemanthus and Scadoxus bloom without leaves and is it after a dormancy or as the leaves are dying down or some other pattern? Jane could you explain again what Scilla scilloides is supposed to do? I am thoroughly confused about when to water it and I think you once wrote it blooms in fall. Mine haven't bloomed yet and the leaves are present at weird times. Do all the Gethyllis bloom without leaves or are there differences in species? Mary Sue From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue Aug 5 11:01:46 2003 Message-Id: <000001c35b62$7bdfe820$8c01a8c0@John> From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Scilla chinensis Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 11:01:42 -0400 I'm not Jane but I can offer an opinion on the above. Here, outside, it behaves rather like Scilla autumnalis, although blooming rather earlier and going dormant a little later. It is basically on a normal Mediterranean cycle and can safely be dried out in the summer. It does seed around quite prolifically so beware if you put it in the garden close to other choice bulbs; it also builds up vegetatively quite quickly. Seedlings get to flowering size outside in 2-3 years. It is bone hardy and from memory the leaves follow on just behind the flowers. J. Dr John T Lonsdale, 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 610 476 0428 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From bandula@absamail.co.za Tue Aug 5 14:08:39 2003 Message-Id: <001501c35b7c$bc1b8ba0$f55427c4@w98sysrec> From: "Digby Boswell" Subject: Neopatersonia Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 20:04:15 +0200 Thanks Arnold for the scientific description. Cheers, Digby, Pietermaritzburg South Africa. ----- Original Message ----- From: Arnold To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: 03 August 2003 4:59 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Re Neopatersonia > Digby; > > From Kubitzki: > > Neopatersonia Schonl. > > Perianth tube short; segments subequal, spreading. Stamens > sub-1-seriate, attached at the throat of the perianth; filaments > broadened and connate at the base, gradually narrowed above; anthers > dorsiflexed, with introrse dehiscence. Ovary sessile, subovoid, 3 > furrowed, with many ovules in each chamber; style filiform; stigma of > three very short spreading branches. Fruit membranous 3- grooved, with > loculicidal dehiscence. Seeds numerous flask shaped, rough. Only one > species., N. uitenhagensis Schonl., S. Africa > > Arnold > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Aug 5 14:50:02 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030805114744.00b48938@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves TOW Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 11:49:56 -0700 Mary Sue wrote, Jane could you explain again what Scilla scilloides is supposed to do? I am thoroughly confused about when to water it and I think you once wrote it blooms in fall. Mine haven't bloomed yet and the leaves are present at weird times. I don't know what it is SUPPOSED to do, but what it does here is grow anywhere I put it, whether it gets water in summer or not, and flowers usually in late August to September. The leaves seem to grow twice -- once in the fall and once in the spring. I have had it for many years (like many other American gardeners, I bought it under the mistaken name "S. numidica," which is a real name of a very rare plant). I don't think anything really fazes this bulb. Jane McGary From samarak@arachne.uark.edu Tue Aug 5 17:24:03 2003 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: OT: giant horsetail (was equisetum control) Date: Tue, 5 Aug 2003 16:24:01 -0500 (CDT) On Mon, 4 Aug 2003, Den Wilson wrote: > There is also a giant, non-invasive form of this plant which looks > absolutely magnificent. Apologies for the off-topic post, especially to those for whom horsetails are a horrible invasive pest, but ... Is this a reference to E. giganteum? (Apparently there is another giant species, E. myriochaetum, and a supposed hybrid between them, E. x schaffneri.) Does anyone know where (preferably in the US) one might acquire a piece of any of these? I'm confident that these tropical plants will not become a pest in my zone 6 NW Arkansas area, where I have UNintentionally killed the common horsetail several times, and where finding horsetails in the wild is not common and is worth a look. Thanks, Steve -- Steve Marak -- samarak@arachne.uark.edu From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Tue Aug 5 19:26:45 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030806092807.009f0210@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 09:28:07 +1000 Jim, > >N. krigei needs a winter cold period in order to bloom the following >season. Try storing them in the fridge for a month or so in mid-winter. > >I had thought that some of them might need hot summer temperatures to bring >on bloom, but now I'm not so sure about that. We are seeing more bloom >this summer than usual in the Nerine, and it has been very mild overall, >only a couple of days reached 90 F (32 C). We have also had plenty of rain >here, which may be encouraging the summer growers. We get down to -8'C at least in winter (most years) and up to maybe 40'C in summer, so the hot and cold shouldn't be a problem , unless it doesn't like that cold? It may also be jsut plain maturity so I am hoping we might get some flowers this year as I repotted last season. > >I have one N. gracilis in flower, and several pots of N. rehmannii starting >to bloom. I should get a picture of at least the rehmannii to post to the >Bulbs_Images list. I am not on the Bulbs-Images so could you either send it to me privately or else put it on your webpage? Thanks in advance. > >In my climate, hybrids of N. sarniensis are difficult, even in pots. I am >not sure how one should get them through a Midwestern summer in condition >to bloom in the Fall. Mine rarely do bloom, and a couple die each year. I don't know exactly what the hybrids I grow are based on. I have maybe 20 dfferent named varieties in colours ranging from whites through to dark reds and pinks. A couple even have a blue-mauve line on the outer tips of the petal which has me wondering whether they have Lycoris crossed into them or not as I cannot think of a Nerine species that includes blue? I sort of thought that Lycoris and Nerine were not THAT compatible though? I imagine Jim Waddick would know for sure though if he happens to be reading this? Otherwise, where does blue occur in Nerines? I am not familiar with 'Pink Triumph' so can't comment on its growing conditions . My hybrids have such names as 'Afterglow', 'Ancilla', 'Bagdad', 'Coconut Ice', 'Cuckfield', 'Jill', 'Kenilworth', 'Killi', 'Knight Templar', 'Lady E. Keane', 'Lucinda', 'Old Rose' and 'Optomist' and I know that some of these are Austrlaian hybridised and others are UK hybridised at least. Not sure where they all came from though. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Aug 6 00:56:59 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030805215455.00b41880@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: E-mail addresses Date: Tue, 05 Aug 2003 21:56:49 -0700 I hesitate to use this forum for such personal reasons, but I have received a number of "bounced" messages back today after sending out my bulb list to various members, so I must not have the new addresses of some of you. If you expected to receive my list and did not, please write to me PRIVATELY - DO NOT REPLY AUTOMATICALLY TO THIS MESSAGE - and tell me your current address. I am particularly missing Jim Waddick's. Thanks, Jane McGary From mark@marksgardenplants.com Wed Aug 6 03:29:36 2003 Message-Id: <004401c35bec$7eaea4d0$c74c7ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Galanthus photos Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 08:29:07 +0100 hi all I am in the process of uploading photos of Galanthus to my web site marksgardenplants.com So far I only have the thumbnails done and will be adding the main images by the weekend - hopefully. If you hover the cursor over the image the name will appear. page 1 http://www.marksgardenplants.com/galanthus_images.htm page 2 http://www.marksgardenplants.com/galanthus_images2.htm Any comments are welcome. I will be adding species names to the main images. Mark From totototo@mail.pacificcoast.net Sun Aug 3 18:59:26 2003 Message-Id: <200308032259.h73MxNg14318@buffy.pacificcoast.net> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Sun, 3 Aug 2003 16:13:09 -700 On 3 Aug 03 at 7:57, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > The topic this week was inspired by an unanswered question on > another bulb list and that was which bulbs flower without leaves. > For the sake of this discussion let us focus on those plants that > break dormancy with flowers first followed by leaves later. Cyclamen hederifolium sends up its first flowers long before the leaves emerge. Cyclamen coum more or less leafs out simultaneously with the appearance of the leaves in late fall or early winter. For the life of me, I can't tell you what Cc. repandum and pseudibericum do: I have a funny idea that C. repandum actually leafs out quite late, not long before the flowers appear, but don't quote me. I'll have to pay closer attention this winter. Galanthus reginae-olgae, at least some forms of it, flowers before its leaves emerge. Leucojum roseum is in flower as I write, triggered by watering. No leaves yet. Ditto for L. autumnale. At the other end of the seaason, Eranthis hyemalis flowers before the leaves are much developed. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada "To co-work is human, to cow-ork, bovine." From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Aug 6 12:21:04 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Crocus 'Saturnus' Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:21:02 +0000 Dear Paul: Yes, it is a seleccion of the biflorus/chrysanthus as Rob says. You have in Australia a wonderful selection of these cultivars. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 6 15:00:10 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030806114221.00cdf5d0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Archives Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 11:59:26 -0700 Dear All, Those of you who were with us when we changed servers know that I tried with the help of some of you to add our archives from our old list on mcn. I spent weeks on the project, sometimes many hours each day. Then I redid them when there were mistakes and after that I said I was done forever in spite of more mistakes that appeared the second time around. The trouble is that it wasn't clear exactly what keys were needed for the new software to be able to read what we had. When deleting a post recently caused further problems the support person sent me quite a lot of posts from October and November last year that I could either fix or delete. For some mysterious reason they had lost their colons so I added one at a time four colons to each message. So several hours later they are improved. They have dates and people now and usually subjects although a few still don't have subjects unless you click on them and I don't have a clue why that is. Maybe I added the colons to the wrong subject line. They have now been added to the archives so I hope someone is going to go back to October and November and reread some of them. Or maybe some of you who have joined us since will want to read them. We started the topic of the week in November and I think there was a lot of interesting information about growing bulbs from seed. And I believe in October there was a discussion about when to start watering. You can click on the text part of the archives and just copy it to your computer if you don't want to read them online. And in one of those months there was the climate of the world discussion as well. I am hoping that they really are done this time. I have found when I work on the archives that those of us on this list have been lucky that so many of you have shared wonderful information and much of it is very interesting the second (and third and fourth) time around. Mary Sue PBS list administrator From dells@voicenet.com Wed Aug 6 15:43:30 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Chuck Schwartz Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 15:45:43 -0400 Dear All, I have been getting bounces back of messages to Chuck Schwartz. Does anyone know what is up? Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From bandula@absamail.co.za Sat Aug 9 05:13:44 2003 Message-Id: <001d01c35e56$b2086980$085627c4@w98sysrec> From: "Digby Boswell" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:46:18 +0200 Hi all, I have Gladiolus stefaniae that is hysteranthus that flowers occasionally. Comes from Montagu in the Cape Province and flowers March/ April in the Southern hemisphere. Cheers, Digby. Pietermaritzburg. bandula@absamail.co.za From meenglis@cts.com Wed Aug 6 16:40:30 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.2.20030806133614.01a1d3b0@mailbox2.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: Archives Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 13:38:03 -0700 Dear Mary Sue: Thank you so much for your efforts to maintain our archives, the wiki and introduce interesting discussion topics. I know this is a bi-i-i-ig job, and I know we all appreciate how much you do. At 11:59 AM 8/6/2003 -0700, you wrote: > I spent weeks on the project, sometimes many hours each day. Then I > redid them when there were mistakes and after that I said I was done > forever in spite of more mistakes that appeared the second time around. > The trouble is that it wasn't clear exactly what keys were needed for the > new software to be able to read what we had. Marguerite English, Vice President, Advertising Chairperson Pacific Bulb Society For information and membership forms, view http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ From meenglis@cts.com Wed Aug 6 16:56:40 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.2.1.2.20030806133935.01a1bd50@mailbox2.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: PBS membership, volunteers Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2003 13:56:33 -0700 Dear members of the list: If you haven't yet joined the Pacific Bulb Society, you have been missing a good thing! There have been several wonderful offerings lately with bulbs donated by members and distributed through the BX. All society members (84, I think) have been sent all the issues of "The Bulb Garden" for this year, and a copy of our member list. (If you have missed these, please let me know privately and I will take care of the problem in my 'editor' role!) We are half-way through our second year. Every officer is a volunteer, and we are trying hard to keep up with everything, but we could surely use some help. We need to find a membership director, assistants for Mary Sue, editorial assistants, someone to create and maintain a web-site, at the very least. If you think we need another office that we haven't considered, please write to one of the board members listed below. We have an on-line board meeting once a quarter; otherwise each task is pretty much self-defined. If you are a self-starter and would like to help us grow, please write to one of us! Marguerite English, Vice President, Advertising Chairperson and editor of "The Bulb Garden" Pacific Bulb Society For information and membership forms, view http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ President: "Cathy Craig" , BX director: "Dell Sherk" , Sec-Treasurer: "Jennifer Hildebrand" , List Administrator: "Mary Sue Ittner" . From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Wed Aug 6 17:24:47 2003 Message-Id: <20030806212446.38866.qmail@web40507.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: Archives Date: Wed, 6 Aug 2003 14:24:46 -0700 (PDT) I second that, it is a big job and I appreciate the time you are taking away from your garden to do this for the group. Thanks Ann Marie Marguerite English wrote:Dear Mary Sue: Thank you so much for your efforts to maintain our archives, the wiki and introduce interesting discussion topics. I know this is a bi-i-i-ig job, and I know we all appreciate how much you do. At 11:59 AM 8/6/2003 -0700, you wrote: > I spent weeks on the project, sometimes many hours each day. Then I > redid them when there were mistakes and after that I said I was done > forever in spite of more mistakes that appeared the second time around. > The trouble is that it wasn't clear exactly what keys were needed for the > new software to be able to read what we had. Marguerite English, Vice President, Advertising Chairperson Pacific Bulb Society For information and membership forms, view http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Ann Marie Rametta So. California, San Gabriel Valley, Zone 21 (Sunset Western Garden book) , influenced by both marine and interior air(Santa Ana winds). This makes it perfect for Citrus trees, Lilacs, some tropical plants and most So African plants. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Wed Aug 6 21:46:30 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030807114759.00a85bc0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Crocus 'Saturnus' Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 11:47:59 +1000 At 04:21 6/08/03 +0000, you wrote: >Dear Paul: > Yes, it is a seleccion of the biflorus/chrysanthus as Rob >says. You have in Australia a wonderful selection of these cultivars. >Regards >Alberto > Howdy All, Just a clarification for those of you who are wondering. The question was asked on the Australian Bulb Association image list but was answered on here rather than there. I thought I would just clarify so that no-one thought they had missed some emails on the way through and then wondered how many others they may have missed. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From totototo@mail.pacificcoast.net Mon Aug 4 16:31:26 2003 Message-Id: <200308042031.h74KVP730428@buffy.pacificcoast.net> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Bulbs that flower without leaves--TOW Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:45:08 -700 On 4 Aug 03 at 8:08, Mark Smyth wrote: > > Leucojum roseum is in flower as I write, triggered by watering. No > > leaves yet. Ditto for L. autumnale. > > very strange! My L autumnale is always in leaf And epitomizes the difference between the moist Irish climate and the summer-dry climate of the Pacific slope. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada "To co-work is human, to cow-ork, bovine." From totototo@mail.pacificcoast.net Mon Aug 4 16:31:25 2003 Message-Id: <200308042031.h74KVN730411@buffy.pacificcoast.net> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Equisetum control Date: Mon, 4 Aug 2003 13:45:08 -700 On 3 Aug 03 at 21:28, Roy Sachs wrote: > Has anyone out there had experience controlling horsetails with > herbicides? > > The more I pull them up the more that rhizome growth is stimulated > rhizome or something wild is happening since the area of infestation > has expanded at least 5-fold in five years. The herbicide MCPA will control horsetail. I do not know if it is still available. By control, I mean about 95% kill. Treat once, wait long enough for surviving rhizomes to re-shoot, then treat a second time. The infestation should then be sparse enough for *digging* of remaining lively rhizomes to be effective, but you still face several years' vigilance. Note that horsetail has paired tubers at intervals along the rhizomes. It is definitely a survivor! MCPA is not a selective herbicide, so the ground must be fallow to use it on horsetail, or contain only weeds. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada "To co-work is human, to cow-ork, bovine." From silverhill@yebo.co.za Thu Aug 7 10:19:36 2003 Message-Id: <015c01c35cef$39c29b20$4a7def9b@saunders> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: Watsonia bulbifera Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 15:52:44 +0200 It depends who buys the plants and where they plant them as to whether it will become a pest or not. In Europe it will probably never escape, particularly in the colder parts. But in Australia or New Zealand or California it will and has! It needs winter rain and doesn't like cold temperatures as it grows in winter. It also doesn't like warm wet summers as the corms can rot. So in many parts of the USA it may not become a weed. I would be careful in France , Italy, Spain and Portugal too. Regards rachel Saunders Cape Town ----- Original Message ----- From: Lauw Dejager To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 11:46 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Re: Watsonia bulbifera > Dear Bob, > Thanks for your note. I have got a stock here, but your posting > assured me in refraining from putting it in my catalog. However last > year August I noticed in Holland a field of one acre with Watsonia > bulbifera, which they intend to put on the market soon. How and who can > prevent them from doing so? > > Kind regards > > Lauw deJager Bulb'Argence > From msittner@mcn.org Thu Aug 7 11:39:42 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030807075258.00d8eec0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Alophia on the wiki Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 07:56:29 -0700 Dear All, Alberto hoped my husband would take a picture of the Alophia I told you about. He wasn't around the first three times it bloomed, but caught it the fourth. I thought my pictures weren't too bad, but I really can't compete with this first one so I have removed one of my other ones from the wiki and replaced it with his. He also took a picture from the back and one from the side. I haven't included the side one because it looks really strange, but can if anyone wants to see it. http://ibiblio.org/pbs/pbswiki/files/Alophia_drummondii3.jpg http://ibiblio.org/pbs/pbswiki/files/Alophia_drummondii_back.jpg Mary Sue From jshields104@insightbb.com Thu Aug 7 11:04:20 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030807080526.00ae3c20@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum pictures Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 10:04:19 -0500 Hi all, I've posted a few more pictures of crinums in my web pages. See URL = http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/CrinumSpecies.html for links to pages on Crinum lineare, C. lugardiae, C. graminicola, and C. macowanii. We currently have blooms on CC. lineare and variabile, while CC. lugardiae and graminicola are in re-bloom mode. Some of my C. macowanii bloomed and rebloomed a month ago, while others are just now blooming for the first time this season. I guess you can't have too many different forms of Crinum macowanii. The newest to bloom, my #334.B, is a seedling from a Silverhills Seeds offering of 1997. The picture is posted at URL = http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/CrinumMacowanii.html There is a new picture of Crinum lineare posted at URL = http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/CrinumLineare.html ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu Aug 7 13:53:13 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Alophia on the wiki Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 17:53:10 +0000 Stunning. And yes the side view would be useful too. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From nsterman@plantsoup.com Thu Aug 7 14:07:22 2003 Message-Id: From: Nan Sterman Subject: Alophia on the wiki Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 11:07:14 -0700 I have a similar looking mystery bulb that blooms in an gold color (sort of an orange/gold). I don't find any references for Alophia coming in that color, anyone got an idea of what my mystery bulb is? It just finished blooming here in So California -- +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Nan Sterman Plant Soup (TM) PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 760.634.2902 (voice) NSterman@PlantSoup.Com 760.634.2957 (fax) +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Thu Aug 7 18:38:21 2003 Message-Id: <001401c35d34$93d24760$99d5fc9e@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Alophia on the wiki Date: Thu, 7 Aug 2003 15:38:07 -0700 May be a Tigridia, possibly T. dugesii or T. chrysantha. Cypella aquatilis also is somewhat similar, and C. peruviana is orange-yellow. Diana Telos ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nan Sterman" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2003 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Alophia on the wiki > > I have a similar looking mystery bulb that blooms in an gold color > (sort of an orange/gold). I don't find any references for Alophia > coming in that color, anyone got an idea of what my mystery bulb is? > It just finished blooming here in So California > > > -- > +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= > > Nan Sterman Plant Soup (TM) > PO Box 231034 > Encinitas, CA 92023 760.634.2902 (voice) > NSterman@PlantSoup.Com 760.634.2957 (fax) > > +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Fri Aug 8 01:18:44 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030807220245.00d66930@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Alophia on the wiki/Cypella and Hesperoxiphion Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 22:18:00 -0700 Dear All, Here is Bob's side view of the Alophia for Alberto: http://ibiblio.org/pbs/pbswiki/files/Alophia_drummondii_side.jpg And for Nan our PBS wiki has a lot of pictures of possibilities of your mystery plant. Germán has spent a lot of time on the Cypella wiki page so you could check out some of those images: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cypella Paul and Rob have some nice pictures of Tigridias. This is slated to be a topic of the week in the fall. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tigridia And ironically I had just added some Hesperoxiphion pictures, but wasn't sure when I'd have time to do a page, but your post has motivated me and I just done one. This is blooming for me right now. I was so excited to see the spikes as I remembered Sir Peter Smithers talking about it floating in the air and how if you plop off the flower after they faded before it can set seed it can bloom a long time. I really hope so because it is an awesome flower. Deadheading daily has been working well for my Gelasine elongata which keeps sending up more blue flowers and for my Calydorea which has blooms on it most days. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hesperoxiphion What puzzles me is that the seed of my Hesperoxiphion came from Bill Dijk, but his picture shows them as orange and mine are definitely yellow. Just another flower I wouldn't have except for Bill's generosity. I hope this helps you sort out what you have Nan. I believe those Tigridia flowers are much smaller than the Hesperoxiphion and I'm not sure about the Cypellas. Mary Sue From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 8 01:40:11 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030808154144.0099fb40@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Alophia on the wiki Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 15:41:44 +1000 At 03:38 7/08/03 -0700, you wrote: >May be a Tigridia, possibly T. dugesii or T. chrysantha. Cypella aquatilis >also is somewhat similar, and C. peruviana is orange-yellow. > Diana, Or maybe Hesperoxipheon peruvianum (or is Cypella peruviana a synonym (or vice versa) for that?). Cypella herbertii is another that is an orangey yellow. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Fri Aug 8 11:06:37 2003 Message-Id: <001401c35dbe$a8c184d0$0ad7fc9e@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Alophia on the wiki/Cypella and Hesperoxiphion Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 08:06:33 -0700 Dear Mary Sue: Has C. peruviana been moved back into Hesperoxiphion? Diana From brian.whyer@which.net Sat Aug 9 06:56:34 2003 Message-Id: <002801c35e64$e70b16b0$492cff3e@2CVEVE1> From: "Brian Whyer" Subject: Littonia and Sandersonia Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 11:56:34 +0100 Hi Can someone tell me the natural growth pattern of Littonia modesta, and Sandersonia aurantiaca. I have seen the latter in the wild in South Africa, but not Littonia. The reason I ask is I grow these in pots on my south facing patio, with numerous other pot plants. A few weeks ago they both were given liquid feed, along with everything else, at about the time both were well into flower. Since then the Littonia has produced the expected large seed pods, but also extended it's stem by a further 18", and is still growing strongly. The Sandersonia has done the same but only by a few inches. Is it just my timely feeding that has given it a new lease of life, and might it flower again on this same stem, which is now ~8' long? Previously I have assumed it's season was over after flowering and slowly dried it off, but now, how long should I keep it growing? Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, UK, min -5C'ish, max 37C so far, but who knows any more. From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sat Aug 9 19:58:56 2003 Message-Id: <000b01c35ed2$39680f90$23197ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Haemanthus montana Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 12:05:51 +0100 hi all I very surprised by my Haemanthus montana seeds. 10 days after setting them on to compost they have rooted and each has a leaf about .5 inch high. As we are having a heat wave right now over the UK and most of Europe I covered the seeds with a layer of grit to protect the roots. Is this OK? I hate to ask again but what now? Do I keep them growing for as long as possible? Mark Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 10:54 PM Subject: Haemanthus montana > hi all > > I have what I hope is Haemanthus montana. ? a large bulb producing a tall > flower spike of white scented flowers. It has set seeds , one per ovary, > which are now ripe. The ovaries have changed from green to almost clear as > it breaks down and the seed can be pushed up and down inside. Two have > become detached from the flower stalk. What now? > > I have some images I can email someone for a positive ID. > > thanks > > Mark > N Ireland > zone 8 > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 9 10:19:03 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Littonia and Sandersonia Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 14:19:02 +0000 Hi Brian: Both are winter dormant but Littonia is far easier than the rest of the bunch( Gloriosa and Sandersonia). Sandersonia is grown by the thousands in the frost free area of New Zealand in porous volcanic soil. These plants do not come from naturally rich soils in the wild. Excellent drainage and warmth are more important than a lot of feeding. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ ¿Estás buscando un auto nuevo? http://www.yupimsn.com/autos/ From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Sat Aug 9 10:44:00 2003 Message-Id: <004801c35e84$a86d1140$a5dcfc9e@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Importation regulations Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 07:43:53 -0700 Dear All: Does anyone know what the current regulations are regarding importing small quantities of seed? I remember something was said about the USDA backing off their previous very restrictive regulations that were imposed last year. Diana Telos From msittner@mcn.org Sat Aug 9 10:50:23 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030809072320.00d8bba0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Littonia and Sandersonia Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 07:49:23 -0700 Dear Brian, I am growing Gloriosa, Sandersonia, and Littonia in large containers in my greenhouse as they seem to appreciate the extra warmth. I tried Gloriosa on my deck last year as an experiment and the wind, cool nights and sometimes day temperatures were not to its liking. I didn't get all my supports up in every pot for these three this year and they have been twining together in the most amazing pattern and seem quite happy. As for Sandersonia, Rachel said it is prone to illness so it is good to dust it before you replant it. This year I gave mine the peroxide soak and it came up looking really good. I first got mine from the IBS BX courtesy of Dirk Wallace and Dell's pleas since they were more available that requested. Am I glad since it is a wonderful plant. I grew it the first time inside in my bathroom since it was changing hemispheres and too cool outside and it was just fine. I believe with this plant you can manipulate when you grow it as the growth must be determined by when you water it. I started my second pot several months after the first since I really love it and wanted to have it in bloom for a longer period and that has worked. I understand someone sells it at a friend's Farmer's Market in the fall as a harvest flower so obviously they have figured out that you can grow it outside its natural time to grow. I concur with Alberto about warmth for these three plants. Mine are quite happy in my greenhouse where it can be very warm in summer. So here is the second Sandersonia pot which is now blooming. We have Gloriosa and Littonia pictures already on the wiki, but not Sandersonia so I uploaded this picture late July, but haven't gotten around to putting it on a page. Photo taken by Bob in the greenhouse. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Sandersonia_aurantiaca.jpg Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From katylesser@hotmail.com Sat Aug 9 11:20:48 2003 Message-Id: From: "Katherine Lesser" Subject: Littonia and Sandersonia Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 11:20:42 -0400 would it make it in northern vermont? _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From jshields104@insightbb.com Sat Aug 9 12:03:07 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030809104617.0248c618@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hybridizing Crinums Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 11:03:03 -0500 Hi all, I just planted some tiny crinum seeds, not as big as baby spring peas: [bulbispermum X graminicola]. This is a repeat of one done a year ago, which also gave somewhat small seeds. Those seedlings are growing very slowly compared to, for instance, [bulbispermum X lugardiae] or [bulbispermum X macowanii]. I wonder if they will ever reach bloom size? Crinum graminicola is reblooming in containers, and so far I have not gotten any of the three bulbs to set a seed. I'll try cross-pollinating between the graminicola plants this time. I have a very few seedlings, maybe 3, of [lugardiae X macowanii]. I got a few more seeds of this cross again this summer. Most do not germinate. I hope the lugardiae will reduce the size of the resulting hybrids somewhat, and increase the floriferousness. The C. lugardiae I have at blooming size produce three scapes each, and one just produced its fourth of the season. Crinum variabile is listed as one species that sometimes produces offsets, and a couple of my bulbs of variabile are indeed offsetting. I hope to be able to propagate these by offsets, rather than having to go through seed. I think the pollinations I did of bulbispermum pollen on variabile are going to produce a few seed pods (actually "berries" I think). If we have another decent winter, perhaps my seedling bulbs of [bulbispermum X lugardiae] growing out in the field will start to flower next summer. Those in pots are much smaller than their siblings in the field. Pictures are at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/Crinum.html and links therefrom, as well as at pages linked from http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/CrinumSpecies.html Regards, Jim ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sat Aug 9 13:47:22 2003 Message-Id: <168.226b951a.2c668da4@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Littonia and Sandersonia Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 13:47:16 EDT In a message dated 8/9/2003 10:50:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, msittner@mcn.org writes: > As for Sandersonia, Rachel said it is prone to illness so it is good to > dust it before you replant it. What kind of illness? Seed grown plants have had no problems here. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 www.therapyshapes.com USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue From batlette@cox.net Sat Aug 9 14:39:55 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Littonia Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 11:39:07 -0700 Hi all, "Bryan Whyer wrote: Can someone tell me the natural growth pattern of Littonia modesta? ...since then the Littonia extended it's stem by a further 18", and is still growing strongly. Is it just my timely feeding that has given it a new lease of life, and might it flower again on this same stem, which is now ~8' long? Previously I have assumed it's season was over after flowering and slowly dried it off, but now, how long should I keep it growing?" I have been growing littonia modesta in a pot out behind the house, under shade, for 3 years now. Last year it came to make two new bulbs which I separated and replanted the whole lot into a larger (2 gal) plastic pot (I may repot as I think they are now over-potted). This year the stem only grew to about 3 ft, had one or two flowers, and produced no seed. But I was largely preoccupied getting the front landscape in this summer and everything out back got short shrfit. It probably didn't get regular water and certainly no fertilizer. However: last year when I was paying better attention, it grew to about 6 or 7 ft, flowered, continued growing another foot or two, flowered there, then grew another foot or so and flowered at the terminal. Last year it got a few waterings with a dilute liquid fertilizer and watered regularly while in growth. Also produced three seed pods, which I dutifully sent to Dell. Unless I am really too busy to pay attention to my watering (those years everything goes dorman early!), I water and occasionally feed everything as long as it looks green or yellow green, then will gradually reduce the water to nothing. So I'd say, yes your fertilizing helped, and keep watering it as long as it looks enthusiastic. From hamish.sloan@virgin.net Sun Aug 10 15:47:46 2003 Message-Id: <01C35F80.A822A040.hamish.sloan@virgin.net> From: Hamish Sloan Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 21:48:28 +0100 Hello Paul, You wrote: "I am not familiar with 'Pink Triumph' so can't comment on its growing conditions . My hybrids have such names as 'Afterglow', 'Ancilla', 'Bagdad', 'Coconut Ice', 'Cuckfield', 'Jill', 'Kenilworth', 'Killi', 'Knight Templar', 'Lady E. Keane', 'Lucinda', 'Old Rose' and 'Optimist' and I know that some of these are Australian hybridised and others are UK hybridised at least. Not sure where they all came from though." Pink Triumph is a hybrid N. bowdenii x another species that I do not remember but it is not N. sarniensis! Treat it like N. bowdenii; it is just as hardy or even more so and has similar growth cycle. I grow mine outside in a spot with good drainage - roots can reach into the hardcore under the greenhouse if need be. If your area is wet in winter add a sheet of glass leaning over the bulbs too keep off too much wetness! 'Bagdad', 'Jill', 'Kenilworth', 'Lady Eleanor Keane', are N. sarniensis hybrids and I believe 'Afterglow' is too. the others I don't know. I grow the first four inside. They are not frost hardy but maybe you have them planted deep enough if outside to survive the temperatures below freezing for short periods. It seems necessary to prevent the roots from drying out and hence shrivelling in the dormant season if you are to get flower. There seems to be a two season cycle of bud initiation in year one, which bud moves towards the outer edge of the bulb base as growth progresses and the flower may reach the edge of the plate so as to be available for flowering in the second season, or sometimes it goes on into the third season before flowering. If the bulbs get too dry in the dormant season, roots die off and while the next seasons flower bud still gets through to flower, the following season after that will quite often give no flower. It doesn't always happen on this plan but it may explain why one can buy a bulb, it flowers the first season but not the next - the loss of root affected the bud growth. I have to admit this is very speculative!!! This answers Jim's query - high temperatures are NOT needed in the dormant season - I'm told that N. bowdenii in South Africa grows better on the south-facing slopes, i.e., the slopes facing away from the sun. (Does this apply to other species?) In our current heat wave - WOW - I'm having trouble keeping the greenhouses cooled down and am sprinkling the dormant nerines every day. The vital need is good drainage because too much sitting water readily gives bulb rot. " It may also be just plain maturity so I am hoping we might get some flowers this year as I repotted last season." Take care on re-potting not to damage the roots unduly so as not to lose flower buds of the second season. "I don't know exactly what the hybrids I grow are based on. I have maybe 20 different named varieties in colours ranging from whites through to dark reds and pinks. A couple even have a blue-mauve line on the outer tips of the petal which has me wondering whether they have Lycoris crossed into them or not as I cannot think of a Nerine species that includes blue? I sort of thought that Lycoris and Nerine were not THAT compatible though? I imagine Jim Waddick would know for sure though if he happens to be reading this? Otherwise, where does blue occur in Nerines?" I am sure that there is no lycoris line in nerine hybrids. If I remember correctly, they have quite different chromosome numbers, so it would be very unlikely. I do remember seeing Tony Norris' collection in the 80s and a very FEW of his hybrids had blue stripes to them. Mauves and dirty purples are not uncommon and these frequently develop more darkly as the flower ages. These mauve/purple colourings seem to associate more with the dusky shaded flowers too. Jim wrote: "In my climate, hybrids of N. sarniensis are difficult, even in pots. I am not sure how one should get them through a Midwestern summer in condition to bloom in the Fall. Mine rarely do bloom, and a couple die each year." N. sarniensis has a reputation for being fickle. Although Guernsey has a large cut flower trade in nerine flowers, it is not N. sarniensis that is used in the main for this flower on the island. Regards Hamish Wettish zone 9 here usually, but we are in the middle of one of our rare heat waves at present. Reports of buckling railway lines beginning to come in!!!! From puppincuff@cox.net Sat Aug 9 17:00:01 2003 Message-Id: <000001c35eb9$99a69de0$738e0544@oc.cox.net> From: "puppincuff" Subject: Chuck Schwartz Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 14:01:21 -0700 Dell, i'm Chuck Schwartz. What do you mean you get 'bounces back? Maybe it's my ips. chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dell Sherk" To: ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 12:45 PM Subject: [pbs] Chuck Schwartz > Dear All, > > I have been getting bounces back of messages to Chuck Schwartz. Does > anyone know what is up? > > Dell > > --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From Arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Aug 9 17:32:25 2003 Message-Id: <3F356868.6070407@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Subject: Chuck Schwartz Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 17:32:24 -0400 Dell: I checked the membership details for Chuck and everything looks okay. Could you send me privately a copy of the note you received about his messages "bouncing". arnold From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 9 20:31:37 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Haemanthus montanus Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 00:31:35 +0000 Hi Mark: Actually the seed produces first a tiny bulb and then the first leaf. Keep it sunny, frost free and growing for as long as you can. Of course in a gritty mix the fleshy fragile roots will not be damaged. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Consigue aquí las mejores y mas recientes ofertas de trabajo en América Latina y USA: www.yupimsn.com/empleos From tstuart@westnet.com Sat Aug 9 19:35:27 2003 Message-Id: <3F354CF4.11527.205F0A49@localhost> From: "Tom Stuart" Subject: Importation regulations Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 19:35:16 -0500 Diana, it is tied up in red tape. The proposed permitting system was deemed politically sensitive, and is on some shelf in the Office of Management and Budget, where it may languish forever. As we are all beginning to realize, everything has been politicized, even tiny seeds. Tom Stuart NARGS Seed Exchange > Does anyone know what the current regulations are regarding importing small > quantities of seed? I remember something was said about the USDA backing > off their previous very restrictive regulations that were imposed last year. > > Diana > Telos > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ksa@del.net Sat Aug 9 22:53:35 2003 Message-Id: <02c801c35eea$979cf4f0$acc878d1@Kathy8200> From: "Kathy Andersen" Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sat, 9 Aug 2003 22:53:29 -0400 This message just appeared on the lily listserv. Can someone please help this poor woman out. I have told her that she does not have a lily and that I was forwarding her message to this list for help. Many thanks, Kathy ksa@del.net . ----- Original Message ----- From: "annamv123" To: Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 4:43 PM Subject: [Lilium] I Need Help! > I have a beautiful lily that blooms in my yard every August. I > would like to know what species it is and if I can get more bulbs. I > have loaded the picture on my website. > > http://rosewoodirish.com/lily.htm > > Thank you in advance for any help/advice you can give me. > > > Sincerely, > Anna Vaughn > Tulsa, Oklahoma > > > > ALL messages and photos on this group are copyright and MAY NOT be used for any purpose without the express written permission of the author/photographer. > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > From annejim@acay.com.au Sun Aug 10 00:41:38 2003 Message-Id: <3F35CDD2.6070407@acay.com.au> From: Jim Lykos Subject: Haemanthus montanus Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 14:45:06 +1000 Hi Mark, I also have grown quite a lot of seedlings of Haemanthus montanus this past year from three sources - there is one plant type that is very robust growing a leaf up to 5 inches long in the the first seasons growth - although we are in different hemispheres you will also find that it is winter dormant. Cheers Jim Lykos Australia From Theladygardens@aol.com Sun Aug 10 02:38:46 2003 Message-Id: <13.20aa87b8.2c674270@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 02:38:40 EDT This looks like the common 'Naked Lady' or Amaryllis belladona. But if it is I can't believe in 4 years it hasn't made more bulbs or seed that sprouted. They are blooming in my garden now. Maybe it is Amarcrinum, a cross between Amaryllis and Crinum. The Crinum are also blooming in my garden in northern CA now. Do the flowers come up fast with no leaves? After the flowers are finished and gone, does she get leaves? From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sun Aug 10 04:08:34 2003 Message-Id: <002801c35f16$a1d69620$692f7ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Haemanthus montanus Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 09:08:13 +0100 thanks Mark N Ireland zone 8 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Lykos" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 5:45 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus montanus > Hi Mark, > > I also have grown quite a lot of seedlings of Haemanthus montanus this > past year from three sources - there is one plant type that is very > robust growing a leaf up to 5 inches long in the the first seasons > growth - although we are in different hemispheres you will also find > that it is winter dormant. > > Cheers > > Jim Lykos > Australia > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From dells@voicenet.com Sun Aug 10 10:07:02 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 37 Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 10:08:58 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 37" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Chuck Schwartz: 1. Seed of Wachendorfia thyrsiflora - evergreen, sow in autumn, prefers damp areas From Lee Poulsen: SEED: 2. Dietes butcheriana - Small whitish flowers, big nice-looking fans of leaves. Grows in shade. Evergreen. Sow spring. 3. Calochortus 'Mixed' - from the Dutch bulb wholesalers. Just a few seed of this. 4. Lapeirousia jacquinii - Sprays of small beautiful purple flowers. Summer dormant. Sow autumn. 5. Manfreda variegata 'El Naranjo form' - Interesting-looking tall flower spikes in spring. See Yucca Do's website http://www.yuccado.com for pictures of Manfredas. 6. Romulea grandiscapa South African, summer dormant. Sow autumn? 7. Baeometra uniflora -Sow autumn. 8. Sparaxis variegata - Summer dormant. Sow autumn? 9. Ornithogalum dubium, white - Sow autumn. 10. Dodecatheon clevelandii - Really nice flower native to warm parts of Calif I think. 11. Gelasine azurea - (I think this has been renamed.) Nice deep blue to blue-violet flowers only last a day, but there is a succession of them. 12. Seed of Veltheimia bracteata, from pink and bicolor flowers - Sow autumn. From Rob Hamilton: SEED: (E = evergreen, W = winter growing, S = spring growing) (All seed was produced in the Southern Hemisphere.) 13. Dierama juncundum (E) -once again no confirmation of identity. Seed I sowed in March germinated in May/June. 14. Dierama pulcherrimum (E)-a nice darker coloured form. 15. Fritillaria acmopetala (W) 16. Fritillaria imperialis (W) 17. Fritillaria messanensis gracilis (W) 18. Fritillaria pontica (W) 19. Fritillaria graeca (W) 20. Fritillaria tuntasia(W) 21. Littonia modesta (S) -parent is on the wiki. 22. Tecophilia cyanocrocus leitchlinii (W) From Mary Sue Ittner: 23. Seed of Ferraria uncinata Thank you, Chuck, Lee, Rob, and Mary Sue !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Sun Aug 10 10:25:17 2003 Message-Id: <3F3655C4.9030203@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 09:25:08 -0500 Hi, Kathy. Hope you are well. These are definitely Lycoris squamigera. Kathy Andersen wrote: >This message just appeared on the lily listserv. Can someone please help >this poor woman out. I have told her that she does not have a lily and that >I was forwarding her message to this list for help. > >Many thanks, > >Kathy > > -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From msittner@mcn.org Sun Aug 10 10:32:11 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030810072150.00d94f00@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Sandersonia Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 07:31:25 -0700 Dear Katherine and Mark, I should think you could grow Sandersonia in Vermont. When it is dormant in winter, I leave mine dry in the pot and it has worked. So if you had a basement or some place you could store the pot where it wouldn't be too cold I would imagine that it would be fine. Mark is growing his in Connecticut, but in a greenhouse. Perhaps he can tell you what he does too. As I said before mine worked fine as a house plant the first time I flowered it. I planted the tubers late August, they came up in September, bloomed in November, went dormant. I replanted them in spring and then they bloomed the following July. They were very quickly changed to the new hemisphere. Hopefully Rachel will say what the disease was. I believe it was fungal, but can't find her message to me to verify this. They were growing great quantities of them and lost a lot one year. Mary Sue From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Aug 10 13:13:09 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Sandersonia, etc. Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 17:13:07 +0000 Dear Mary Sue: Your method not only HAS to work, it had worked for decades. I wonder why it is not more widely used now. It was known as "Gladiolus culture" and basically involves giving the dormant bulbs, corms and tubers frost free to warm conditions while dry dormant in winter. In England it is common that the spot for this is under the bed of the spare (visitor's) room as it is generally warmer than a greenhouse in the open. The range of bulbous plants that can be grown under this method is very extensive. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From eagle85@flash.net Sun Aug 10 14:13:27 2003 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Haemanthus montana Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 11:04:00 -0700 Mark SmythDoug Westfall mark@marksgardenplants.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > hi all > > I very surprised by my Haemanthus montana seeds. 10 days after setting them on > to compost they have rooted and each has a leaf about .5 inch high. As we are > having a heat wave right now over the UK and most of Europe I covered the > seeds with a layer of grit to protect the roots. Is this OK? > > I hate to ask again but what now? Do I keep them growing for as long as > possible? > > Mark > MARK, That is the way that they "GROW." Do keep them growing as long as you can. They will go "dormant" later. Start watering them from the bottom with a 1/4 dilute solution of "general purpose" liquid fertilizer. They should do well. I planted some Haemanthus nortieri seeds just about 2 weeks before yours. the leaves are now 8 - 9 cm long. Good luck. Doug Westfall From msittner@mcn.org Sun Aug 10 14:11:52 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030810110323.00d65100@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Sandersonia Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 11:07:46 -0700 Dear All, This from Rachel: "Sandersonias are extremely susceptible to a whole range of diseases which make them rot. We found that we had to lift them every year, and replant them into sterile soil. Each year we lifted the tubers at the end of summer, treated them with fungicide and bacteriacide, then stored them in the cold. When we replanted, we again dipped in fungicide and then planted into sterile soil. Damp humid conditions make them rot easily." I guess I've just been lucky since I've kept mine going since 1999 when Dirk sent them. My greenhouse is very humid (like close to 100% often) in winter, but I have the fan on all the time and I'm not watering these and they are dormant. After Rachel's advice the last few years I have been repotting them every year in the spring and dusting them until this year when I gave them the Den Wilson treatment before I planted them. Mary Sue From Theladygardens@aol.com Sun Aug 10 14:41:34 2003 Message-Id: <104.34251f6e.2c67ebd6@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 14:41:26 EDT After I posted my thoughts and went to bed I thought of Lycoris because I am assuming it would be slower to increase. Can't imagine my suggestions would not have increased lots in 4 years. Are there other obvious means to identify these from a photo? Most of you are more knowledgeable than I so please share them. Carolyn in Los Gatos From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Aug 10 14:55:42 2003 Message-Id: From: janemcgary@earthlink.net Subject: (no subject) Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 11:55:41 -0700 Alberto wrote, > It was known as "Gladiolus culture" and basically involves giving the dormant bulbs, corms and tubers frost free to warm conditions while dry dormant in winter. In England it is common that the spot for this is under the bed of the spare (visitor's) room as it is generally warmer than a greenhouse in the open. This reminds me of my early adventures in bulb growing, when I lived in a cabin outside of Fairbanks, Alaska, and did put my forcing bulbs in pots under my bed (not in the spare room, there wasn't any). It may have been warmer than "the open" but the pots sometimes froze solid! (The bulbs were very cheerful nonetheless, grown under lights.) Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Sun Aug 10 16:03:30 2003 Message-Id: <3F36A508.1080809@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 15:03:20 -0500 Dear Carolyn: I'm not very familiar with Amaryllis belladonna, but I don't think you will find any blue in the flower at any stage. The Lycoris squamigera blossom, in bud will have blue on the tips, inherited from one of its assumed parents, L. sprengeri. This blue will remain in early bloom, completely fading away to give into the pink full blossom, but with a yellow throat. L. squamigera will have 5-7 blooms per umbel, while A. belladonna will have up to 10. I believe L. squamigera has a taller stalk of the two reaching almost 3' in ideal circumstances. L. squamigera will not set seed, is hardy to zone 5 (or colder), and shows foliage only in the spring. A. belladonna produces seed, can only survive temperatures down to 10°F (and only if planted deeply), and grows it's foliage from fall through spring season beginning shortly after bloom. If you visit the IBS Gallery some pretty good closups are shown of various A. belladonna. There you can compare between the photos the differences that also exist in petal form, style & filament lengths and proportions. > my thoughts and went to bed I thought of Lycoris because I am >assuming it would be slower to increase. > -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From puppincuff@cox.net Sun Aug 10 16:38:08 2003 Message-Id: <004501c35f7f$b57d9f20$738e0544@oc.cox.net> From: "puppincuff" Subject: Fw: [pbs] Chuck Schwartz Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 13:41:00 -0700 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dell Sherk" To: ; ; ; ; ; ; ; ; Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 12:45 PM Subject: [pbs] Chuck Schwartz > Dear All, > > I have been getting bounces back of messages to Chuck Schwartz. Does > anyone know what is up? > > Dell > > --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshields104@insightbb.com Sun Aug 10 16:43:52 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030810154140.0283c578@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 15:43:51 -0500 Hi all, I wonder if Amaryllis belladonna could even survive let alone bloom in Oklahoma, where that lady was from. Has anyone tried A. belladonna in Oklahoma? Knowing what the foliage looked like, when it appears, and how big the flowers are would help pin it down further. I'm sure Kelly is correct is saying it is Lycoris squamigera. Jim Shields At 02:41 PM 8/10/2003 -0400, you wrote: >After I posted my thoughts and went to bed I thought of Lycoris because I am >assuming it would be slower to increase. Can't imagine my suggestions would >not have increased lots in 4 years. Are there other obvious means to >identify >these from a photo? Most of you are more knowledgeable than I so please >share >them. >Carolyn in Los Gatos >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From jshields104@insightbb.com Sun Aug 10 17:15:48 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030810160601.028503b0@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: More Nerine coming Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 16:15:47 -0500 Hamish and all, At 09:48 PM 8/9/2003 +0100, Hamish wrote: >....... > >Pink Triumph is a hybrid N. bowdenii x another species that I do not >remember but it is not N. sarniensis! Treat it like N. bowdenii; it is just >as hardy or even more so and has similar growth cycle. I grow mine outside >in a spot with good drainage - roots can reach into the hardcore under the >greenhouse if need be. If your area is wet in winter add a sheet of glass >leaning over the bulbs too keep off too much wetness! >....... Interesting! I'll test the hardiness of Nerine 'Pink Triumph' by planting a couple bulbs out in the rock garden. I planted a couple bulbs of N. krigei, of N. angulata, and of N. [filifolia X krigei] out there earlier this summer. We'll see if any of them make it through the coming winter. Nerine krigei is in bloom again, after skipping 2002. N. platypetala continues to bloom. I see one scape on an N. angulata and one on a pot of N. filifolia. I posted a pic of N. krigei to Bulbs_Images today. ....... >N. sarniensis has a reputation for being fickle. Although Guernsey has a >large cut flower trade in nerine flowers, it is not N. sarniensis that is >used in the main for this flower on the island. > >Regards Hamish I do wish it were easier to grow and flower N. sarniensis hybrids around here. Having seen pictures of Sir Peter Smithers' hybrids -- he let me post some of his photographs on one of my web sites, at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/Smithersnerines.html -- I think they would be a fantastic addition to the autumn greenhouse. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 10 17:41:12 2003 Message-Id: <000301c35f86$f72a3260$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 22:32:57 +0100 Topic of the Week - Eucomis Eucomis are a small genus of 11 species that belong to the Hyacinthaceae, 10 species of which, come from South Africa, the other species; Eucomis zambesiaca, coming from highland regions of Malawi. First introduced into cultivation in the UK well over 200 years ago. Chromosome number 2n=15 or 16 (Darlington and Wylie, 1955). E. zambesiacea - a smaller species with brilliant white flowers on a spike approximately 30cm high, and rosette 45cm across. All are summer flowering with the exception of E. regia, which comes from the Cape region, and winter rainfall area. The South African species include- E. comosa var. comosa syn. E. punctata - shade tolerant and with a preference to moist soils, this species has long strap like leaves forming its rosette, leaf length approximately 60cm long, bearing flowers approx 90cm high. Many forms of this plant are in cultivation, and the leaves can be quite variable in colour, and from light green to a dark burgundy. Flowers usually white, but sometimes pinky, or purplish. E. comosa var. striata - leaf reverse striated purple, with spotted spike, smaller than many forms of E. comosa. Flowers to 40-60cm high, leaves smaller and more prostrate than comosa. A nice plant well worth growing. E. schijffii - dwarf species growing to approximately 35cm tall, forming a dumpy rosette; reverse of leaves maroon tinged, sometimes with rolled or curled edges, comes from high mountainous areas such as Sentinel Peak. E. autumnalis subsp. amaryllidifolia syn. E. amaryllidifolia - A rarer subspecies of the frequently grown E. autumnalis, produces reasonably thick ovate prostrate leaves in a rosette fashion, white flowers. E. autumnalis subsp. autumnalis syn. E. undulata - The most commonly cultivated form of E. autumnalis in the UK, forms a dense rosette of strap like leaves with undulating edges. White or white / green flowers on spikes around 60cm high. Flowers of this species may turn green on exposure to strong sunshine. E. autumnalis subsp. clavata syn. E. robusta - Can be found growing in open grassland or marshes covering quite a wide area of the Drakensberg, including Kwazulu-Natal and Lesotho, and can also be found at altitude on Sentinel Peak. White flowers and becoming more common in cultivation. E. bicolor - Plant forming a large rosette of wide leaves, to 75cm across, leaves spotted or unspotted on reverse. Flower height 60cm or so, produces large heads of flowers which are wider at the top, which are covered in a rosette of smaller bract like leaves, giving the species its pineapple appearance. The is also a white flowered form of this species, 'Alba', which is slightly smaller in proportion. E. montana - Yet another species I have not flowered yet, but the typical feature of the plants I have are in the length and width of the leaves which don't form a typical rosette here. Indeed, sometimes only two or three, long and wide, shiny, red edged leaves are produced on an annual basis. Something tells me I may be watering it too much. Superb foliage, leaves up to 60cm and 10cm wide. E. pole-evansii - The largest species of the genus, which in the wild prefers wetland habitats. However, it will grow in average garden soils, if regularly irrigated. Leaves over 1 meter long, wide at base tapering along their length, flowers to about 1.2m here. They make a very bold statement but it's a shame the spikes tend to bend over, thus they do sometimes need staking. E. humilis - A species I know nothing about as it's the only one I haven't seen. Apparently this small species has light green short dumpy leaves with a short dumpy spike of pinkish flowers. E. vandermewei - Dwarf species, with a small rosette of purple spotted leaves. Leaves of this species are approx 20cm long, pointed and slightly undulate at their edge. Short spike of purplish burgundy flowers. This species can be slightly variable in its markings. E. regia subsp. regia and E. regia subsp. pillansii - I don't think the latter is known in cultivation in the UK, and this is primarily because there are very few people that grow this winter flowering species. I must admit, it is a little tricky, it doesn't like being wet at all, and easily rots. It will also 'sleep' readily, and remain dormant and skip a year. I haven't flowered it yet here, but it produces what I would describe as spoon shaped light green leaves, which taper to their base. Perhaps someone can enlighten us more. Germination is easy, but seedlings have grown very slowly. The name Eucomis is derived from the Greek word Eukomos, meaning 'Beautifully Haired'. Their common name, to which they are referred 'the pineapple lily', is very well deserved. However, I'm often amazed at the number of people who when told their common name, go and smell them, and expect them to smell of pineapple as well. They then get quite an unpleasant surprise when they do as their smell can be quite unpleasant and often foetid, as they attract flies of various descriptions for their pollination, and I've noted green bottles, bluebottles, house flies and horse flies pollinating them. Growing around 50 forms though has not yet upset my wife, and it would seem that the flies, which might have once come into the house now prefer to stay outside. All the above species I have found to be hardy to at least -5C, and most will also tolerate winter rainfall during the dormant season. All are planted at a depth of between 4 and 5 inches deep, with the exception of E. vandermewei, 2 inches, and thus to prevent frost damage, as frosts can penetrate the ground here to a depth of about three inches. I find it very strange that these bulbs are marketed as being half-hardy only, and that they need a sunny spot. Nothing is further from the truth, as I have found most species to be frost hardy, even those I keep in pots, but further to this they must have some shade at least. All of the above tend to loose water from their leaves, and become limp very quickly if grown in full sun, and especially if grown in pots, and even if well watered. I tell garden visitors here, that I treat them in a similar manner to Clematis, planting them where their roots can remain cool and moist during summer months. Their foliage where to can come through but not be over shaded out by other bulbs or plants, and to the effect that their flowers can be appreciated as they deserve during the flowering period. Indeed, I believe Eucomis could make very good plants for north facing borders, if planted deeply and given a little protection in frosty areas. They rise from the ground in the very late in spring or early summer, thus there is little chance of their buds being damaged by late frosts. Indeed I have found that I can grow them with Gladiolus x colvillei or tristis planted directly around their base, as the colvillei will often flower and dieback before the Eucomis break surface. Horticulturally, Eucomis are becoming quite fashionable, and this recent popularity has lead to the breeding or selection of numerous hybrids. Hybrids are currently being produced both in the UK, Germany, Holland, Australia and New Zealand. The latter, by IBS member, and well known nurseryman David Hatch. It would seem that more and more gardeners are looking for things a bit more unusual and interesting for their gardens nowadays. The ease of propagation has also meant that they can be commercially supplied very easily. A few hybrids offered in the UK are being micro-propagated, and such is the case with Eucomis comosa 'Sparkling Burgundy', but I often wonder how this might effect the quality of plants offered, as Eucomis can vary even from taking larger leaf cuttings. Eucomis propagate easily from leaf cuttings, and different people have different methods of doing it. I've heard of various methods and these include; 6mm square pieces on agar, postage stamp sized cuttings in water; and my un-technical method of cut the leaf up put it in compost and hope, which usually works if the leaves don't rot off soon afterwards. However, has anyone tried leaf cuttings of E. schijffii or E. vandermewei, I've noticed these rot off quicker, what's the secret? The following is a list of many of the selections that are currently available across the globe. Some may be more widely available than stated. List of hybrids bicolor 'Alba' - UK bicolor 'Stars & Stripes' - UK (New release 2003) autumnalis 'White Dwarf' - UK comosa 'Cornwood' - UK comosa 'Oakhurst' - USA comosa 'Rubrum' - NL comosa 'Sparkling Burgundy' - USA & UK * comosa 'Sparkling Rosie' - NZ pole-evansii 'Burgundy' - UK pole-evansii 'Purpurea' - UK 'African Bride' - UK (New release 2003) 'Dark Hybrid' - AUS 'First Red' - UK & Germany * 'Frank Lawley' - UK 'John Huxtable' - UK 'John Treasure' - UK * 'Joy White' - NZ 'Joy's Purple' - UK 'Pink Sensation' - AUS 'Playa Blanca' - NL (Any news of its release will be appreciated) 'Royal Burgundy' - UK (New) 'Roze Selectie' syn. 'Rose Selection' - NL * 'Swazi Pride' - UK (New release 2003) 'Victoria Joy' - NZ 'Zeal Bronze' - UK * Quite a few of the above hybrids have really nice purple, purplish or rose colour rosettes. Of those I have, I have marked the best with an asterisk. I must admit though, I do not have and haven't seen any of the new New Zealand hybrids by David Hatch. UK - United Kingdom USA - United States of America NL - Holland AUS - Australia NZ - New Zealand Photos of some of these hybrids may be found on my website, on the following page. http://www.theafricangarden.com/page40.html References - Herbertia Volume 55 2000 - one of the best references I have seen regarding this genus. Peter Knippels - http://www.bloembol.info/ Plant Finder UK - http://www.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantfinder/plantfinder.asp Plant Finder NZ - http://www.infogarden.co.nz/search/default.asp Plant Delights Catalogue - http://www.plantdelights.com/Catalog/Current/page29.html But Tony, don't try them in mixed drinks, but they're a bit poisonous. But then your not hardy unless you've killed yourself at least three times. (lol) Best Wishes, Dave (Plymouth, UK) Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From c-mueller@tamu.edu Sun Aug 10 19:55:02 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Jim Shields' crinum experiments Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:50:15 -0500 Jim - please be sure to keep the news of your crinum breeding experiments coming - every new bit of information is useful! Cynthia W. Mueller College Station, Tx Zone 8b-9 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Aug 10 23:51:57 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030810170239.00b5fac0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 17:07:34 -0700 Thanks to David for his excellent review of Eucomis. These are among the few South African bulbs that do well in my garden here in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains. I have had E. bicolor for many years and more recently planted out E. autumnalis, which has not flowered yet, and E. pole-evansii, which started flowering last year. I was quite impressed with the lovely white flowers of E. pole-evansii, on a tall stalk but not the 1.2 meters that David mentions. It flowered in September here, probably later than it would in a more hospitable climate. Both E. bicolor and E. pole-evansii have survived winter temperatures of 5 degrees F without snow cover here, while dormant under a deep mulch of bark. They are growing in ordinary loam and are watered regularly in summer. I tried a tiny plant of the beautiful burgundy-leaved variety 'Sparkling Burgundy' that is available commercially now, but it died while still in the pot; it was grown from a leaf cutting and I think it may not have been well rooted. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Sun Aug 10 21:30:44 2003 Message-Id: <20030811013043.36725.qmail@web11308.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Crinum hybridizing Date: Sun, 10 Aug 2003 18:30:43 -0700 (PDT) I did my first Crinum crosses this year. Jim S, you spurred me into it, it's your fault! I crossed my asiaticum procerum (seed parent, which split into 2 pieces this year) with pedunculatum (my favorite crinum for the leaf structure and evergreeness of it. It always looks perfect year round, yeah). I think I got maybe 5 to 7 seeds. With the open house this last weekend I was a little frazzeled and counting the seeds wasn't a priority. I hope they will still be there in 2 weeks when I return. By that time they could have fallen into a neighboring pot and sprouted already. I am very excited to see the variability of purple leaves. I am hoping to get some winter hardiness out of the purples. They always look a little ratty over winter unlike the pedunculatum (is it -ultaum or -ulata? I always get confused). And I also selfed the pedunculatum since it doesn't look like it has any pups on the way in the near future. Well, those are my stories. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From tony@plantdel.com Mon Aug 11 07:52:09 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.1.32.20030811075212.00cfebd8@66.39.59.108> From: Tony Avent Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 07:52:12 -0400 David: Thanks for the great write-up on eucomis. They are also marvelous here in North Carolina, where they have been completely hardy...down to at least 5 degrees F, (many have been to 0 degrees F when we used to get that low). E. zambesiaca is truly superb in the garden, but amazingly is a poor seller. The leaves on E. autumnalis var. autumnalis feel just like tire rubber. I've seen few other plants with this texture of foliage. Eucomis montana has flowered for us and has the best flowers that we have seen in the genus. It appears as though the dark purple anthers are fused, creating a dark eye against the white petals. E. pole-evansii has flower spikes of 3-3.5', but never the 5-6' that I read about. Does this giant spiked plant actually exist? We are growing all of these species in dry sand...even the moisture loving ones. They are amazingly durable. Regarding leaf cuttings, we have found these to be most successful when taken early in the season...late season cutting rot easier. E. comosa is the easiest to root and E. autumnalis has proven the most difficult. They do not seem to like a constant mist, as this causes them to rot. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, NC 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdel.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent From theafricangarden@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 11 08:51:01 2003 Message-Id: <000401c36006$0eb1a7e0$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 13:42:42 +0100 Hi Tony, >>>>>E. pole-evansii has flower spikes of 3-3.5', but never the 5-6' that I read about. Does this giant spiked plant actually exist? I have a very large specimen here however 5-6ft high tends to end up 5-6ft across when laying flat across the ground during rain. The specimen here is in the heaviest coolest and moistest soil in our garden, a clay loam. The main bulb is a monster, last time I dug it, it probably weighed in XS of 20lb, (5 bulbs all joined together). This year it has come good as in the past the leaves have been narrower and sprawling, this year, probably due to our warmer spring the leaves are much wider at their base and are very much stronger. More sword like. >>>>We are growing all of these species in dry sand...even the moisture loving ones. They are amazingly durable. Yes I find this but they become limp very quickly in the sun, and I've found the sun here is getting stronger as the years go on. >>>>Regarding leaf cuttings, we have found these to be most successful when taken early in the season...late season cutting rot easier. E. comosa is the easiest to root. Thanks for that and for the description of E. montana flowers. I find E. comosa easier to root also, but it's nice to know that new leaves are less problematic. Incidentally, I also find that if you cover them with newspaper to shade them, the amount of rot will increase, and which is probably due to ethylene production during the rotting process. Hence any shading has to be of a netting material to allow ventilation. Well we all learn the hard way. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Avent" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 12:52 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Eucomis - Topic of the Week > David: > > Thanks for the great write-up on eucomis. They are also marvelous here in > North Carolina, where they have been completely hardy...down to at least 5 > degrees F, (many have been to 0 degrees F when we used to get that low). > > E. zambesiaca is truly superb in the garden, but amazingly is a poor > seller. The leaves on E. autumnalis var. autumnalis feel just like tire > rubber. I've seen few other plants with this texture of foliage. > > Eucomis montana has flowered for us and has the best flowers that we have > seen in the genus. It appears as though the dark purple anthers are fused, > creating a dark eye against the white petals. > > E. pole-evansii has flower spikes of 3-3.5', but never the 5-6' that I > read about. Does this giant spiked plant actually exist? > > We are growing all of these species in dry sand...even the moisture loving > ones. They are amazingly durable. > > Regarding leaf cuttings, we have found these to be most successful when > taken early in the season...late season cutting rot easier. E. comosa is > the easiest to root and E. autumnalis has proven the most difficult. They > do not seem to like a constant mist, as this causes them to rot. > > Tony Avent > Plant Delights Nursery @ > Juniper Level Botanic Garden > 9241 Sauls Road > Raleigh, NC 27603 USA > Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F > Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F > USDA Hardiness Zone 7b > email tony@plantdelights.com > website http://www.plantdel.com > phone 919 772-4794 > fax 919 772-4752 > "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least > three times" - Avent > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 11 11:46:58 2003 Message-Id: <000901c3601e$a318c220$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - TOTW - more pics Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 16:38:39 +0100 Dear All, I have just updated, changed and put some new Eucomis pics on my website on the following page. http://www.theafricangarden.com/page40.html More shots of individual flowers, leaf bases, and some shots of the whole plant whilst in flower. I've a few more hybrids that might flower this week so look out for updates. Present picture titles include- Eucomis autumnalis 'White Dwarf' Eucomis autumnalis subsp. autumnalis - flowers Eucomis autumnalis subsp. autumnalis Eucomis autumnalis subsp. amaryllidifolia - in leaf Eucomis autumnalis subsp. clavata - in leaf Eucomis bicolor Eucomis bicolor - flowers Eucomis bicolor - leaf base Eucomis bicolor 'Alba' Eucomis bicolor 'Alba' - flowers Eucomis comosa Eucomis comosa - flowers Eucomis comosa - leaf base Eucomis comosa var. striata Eucomis comosa var. striata - flowers Eucomis comosa var. striata - leaf base Eucomis comosa 'Cornwood' Eucomis comosa 'Cornwood' - flowers Eucomis comosa 'Cornwood' - leaf base Eucomis comosa 'First Red' - in flower Eucomis comosa 'First Red' - in leaf Eucomis comosa 'Roze Selectie' syn. 'Rose Selection' - in leaf Eucomis montana JCA 3230510 - in leaf Eucomis montana JCA 3230510 - leaf base Eucomis pallidiflora - in leaf Eucomis pole-evansii Eucomis pole-evansii - flowers Eucomis pole-evansii (striated hybrid) Eucomis pole-evansii (striated hybrid) - flowers Eucomis pole-evansii (striated hybrid) - leaf base Eucomis schijffii ex. Sentinel Peak, SA. - in leaf Eucomis vandermewei (selections) - in leaf Eucomis vandermewei (flowers) ex. seed Johannesburg Botanical Garden Eucomis zambesiaca - in leaf Eucomis 'African Bride' Eucomis 'African Bride' (flowers) Eucomis 'Dark Hybrid' - in leaf (Australian Hybrid) Eucomis 'Frank Lawley' - in leaf Eucomis 'Frank Lawley' - flowers Eucomis 'John Huxtable' - in leaf Eucomis 'John Treasure' - in leaf Eucomis 'Pink Sensation' - in leaf (Australian Hybrid) Eucomis 'Sparkling Burgundy' - flowers Eucomis 'Sparkling Burgundy' - in leaf Eucomis 'Swazi Pride' Eucomis 'Swazi Pride' - flowers Eucomis 'Zeal Bronze' Jane and Tony, that's for the kind comments, it was a bit rushed to say the least. A lot ''bulb things'' are happening here at the moment. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 11 17:38:50 2003 Message-Id: <000d01c3604f$ca2aeec0$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:30:30 +0100 John, Thanks for your comments and invitation will talk to you privately about it. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From msittner@mcn.org Mon Aug 11 18:40:20 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030811145430.00c17d70@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:38:52 -0700 Dear All, First of all I want to thank Dave for the splendid introduction. He deserves extra praise since this is an especially busy time of the year for him made even more busy by the extra time spent watering because of the weather. And I got the date mixed up he said he would do it and he still came through for us. In addition he agreed that I could use his pictures on the wiki so we could have an Eucomis page which I have made. I only chose some of his pictures so if you want to see all of them it is still better to go to his web site. I added a picture of mine I took in August of 2001 when we saw Eucomis regia blooming in the rocks in Nieuwoudtville and Dave also sent me a picture of a common pollinator sniffing around one of his Eucomis. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Eucomis I think Shayne said he was growing Eucomis regia so he should give us a progress report. It isn't as showy as the others but we were very excited when we found it and perhaps some of us from Mediterranean climates would have more success with it. Now for my questions and comments. I started some from seed a number of years ago of something called Eucomis sp. I got it to bloom and put one in the ground where it has done nothing at all although some years I see it. I kept one for a pot which has expanded greatly. It has bloomed again and an offset I gave to a friend who planted it out has bloomed as well. Mostly I'm not having much success. It could be that I am not watering enough or fertilizing enough or giving it a big enough pot or maybe it needs summer warmth? I have quite a few offsets in several pots and wonder about when and how to divide them as they seem all twined together. I'd be willing to give some to the BX this winter if I can figure it out. Last year the pot growing ones never looked completely dormant so I didn't try it then. When it bloomed I quite liked it so would like to figure out what it needs. So for those of us who live in summer dry and summer not hot what should we do? Maybe growing in a pot is a problem, but I am not sure it would get enough water in the ground. Watering a lot in summer just means a more extensive system of redwood roots in my garden. How much fertilizer does it need to bloom well? This Eucomis sp. when it blooms has a pink ovary and is very pretty. Does that automatically make it E. comosa or could it be something else? Also I bought something labeled Eucomis autumnalis pink from the Huntington at the IBS meeting last year. It is blooming now and very attractive and has pink ovaries too. So is that true ever for E. autumnalis or is this one something else? I have uploaded some pictures of it. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_sp.jpg http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_sp._close.jpg How long does Eucomis seed last? I got some seed from Rhoda when we visited South Africa that year and she advised me since it was old seed to sow half of it immediately (fall) and the other half in spring. The ones I sowed in the fall germinated in the spring and the ones I sowed in spring did not so it was good advice. Some I've gotten from a seed exchange I planted in spring have not germinated. Thanks for any help. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 11 18:54:03 2003 Message-Id: <002001c3605a$46874860$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 23:45:34 +0100 >>>>also sent me a picture of a common pollinator sniffing around one of his Eucomis. Hi Mary Sue, Just to let you know, flies have been pollinating them all day today whilst I was taking more photos. On tidying the garden late this evening I noticed that there were many species of moths also attracted to them. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From annejim@acay.com.au Mon Aug 11 20:49:35 2003 Message-Id: <3F383A71.9040009@acay.com.au> From: Jim Lykos Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 10:53:05 +1000 Hi David, Just a note about the height of Eucomis pole-evansii spike, although my own plants are still young - I have noticed it in flower at the Sydney Botanical gardens growing in a sunny bed beside a glasshouse - and the spikes do reach between 5 and 6 feet. So apart from plant variability it could be climatic factors that bring out its full size and flowering potential. Cheers Jim Lykos Springwood Australia From onager@midtown.net Mon Aug 11 21:51:11 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030811184909.017012f8@pop3.midtown.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 18:50:29 -0700 Hi, This summer I was given Eucomis pallida. Is this name okay or has it been superceded? Thanks. Kind regards, Joyce Miller Joyce E. Miller mailto:onager@midtown.net Zone USDA 9A Summer highs 100+degrees F for several to many days. Winter lows 27 degrees F From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Tue Aug 12 00:32:55 2003 Message-Id: <000901c36089$a17fd000$df04c050@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 05:24:33 +0100 Hi Joyce, The plant that the name probably refers to is Eucomis pallidiflora. I have a young plant of it here and it is considered a species in hort. My plant here looks like a very large form of Eucomis comosa var. striata but with larger more erect leaves. Flowers are quite like E. comosa. And very sorry, it is the 11th species which I accidentally left out from the list of species. It is commonly referred to as The Giant Pineapple Lily. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 12 08:26:03 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 37 CLOSED Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 08:28:17 -0400 Dear All, Everythijng is claimed. If it rains again today, and I package seeds instead of weeding, the packages could go out as soon as tomorrow. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From msittner@mcn.org Tue Aug 12 10:33:23 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030811214757.00b34580@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Watsonia meriana bulbilifera Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 07:32:33 -0700 Dear All, Last week we were able to drive by one of the weedy public patches of Watsonia that I mentioned earlier. We didn't get a chance to stop and take a picture until we were on our way home and then it was late in the day and not everything is in focus. But you can see the potential problem with this species when you look at all those bulbils on one stalk! Think of them all falling off and extending in all directions. They can root right on top of the soil. I was paying attention as we drove and there are some really bad patches next to the highway and other places where they are only a few plants now, but will be hundreds in years to come. These pictures were taken right along Highway One next to Salt Point State Park. I added the text below and pictures to the wiki: Watsonia meriana ssp. bulbilifera produces bubils in the leaf axis and in the right climate can become a big pest as it has in coastal northern California. These two photos by Bob Rutemoeller although not very clear show the large number of bubils and the drying foliage which makes an ugly and ever extending display along Highway One in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_bulbils.jpg http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_meriana_bulb.jpg Roy, if your plants did not produce these bubils maybe what you have is not the problem plant. Mary Sue From rmsachs@ucdavis.edu Tue Aug 12 12:18:08 2003 Message-Id: From: "Roy M. Sachs" Subject: Watsonia meriana bulbilifera Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 09:21:02 -0700 >Dear All, > >Last week we were able to drive by one of the weedy public patches >of Watsonia that I mentioned earlier. We didn't get a chance to stop >and take a picture until we were on our way home and then it was >late in the day and not everything is in focus. But you can see the >potential problem with this species when you look at all those >bulbils on one stalk! Think of them all falling off and extending in >all directions. They can root right on top of the soil. I was paying >attention as we drove and there are some really bad patches next to >the highway and other places where they are only a few plants now, >but will be hundreds in years to come. These pictures were taken >right along Highway One next to Salt Point State Park. I added the >text below and pictures to the wiki: > >Watsonia meriana ssp. bulbilifera produces bubils in the leaf axis >and in the right climate can become a big pest as it has in coastal >northern California. These two photos by Bob Rutemoeller although >not very clear show the large number of bubils and the drying >foliage which makes an ugly and ever extending display along Highway >One in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_bulbils.jpg >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_meriana_bulb.jpg > >Roy, if your plants did not produce these bubils maybe what you have >is not the problem plant. > >Mary Sue Mary Sue: Thanks for posting the fine pics, just what I needed for comparison with stuff that I've grown. So far none of my orange-salmon watsonia have produced bulbils on the inflorescence axes. I wonder about climate and/or cultural conditions on inflorescence development, but I'm inclined to agree that I'm dealing with a non-pernicious watsonia. Roy From mark@marksgardenplants.com Tue Aug 12 12:36:14 2003 Message-Id: <002401c360ef$b7a770c0$8a1f7ad5@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: cyrtanthus spiralis Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 17:35:17 +0100 hi all I have a bulb of Cyrtanthus spiralis which I traded for 2 years ago. When I got it it was a small bulb and it grew well. Last year it grew well again and is now the size of half a film cannister. This year all it has done is produce bulbs around it's side as well as growing a single leaf on the parent bulb. It's in a plastic pot filled with 50/50 top soil and grit and gets full sun all day from 10am until 7pm. Am I doing something wrong? Mark N Ireland zone 8 From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Tue Aug 12 16:54:56 2003 Message-Id: <3F39528C.BF9323D@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Watsonia meriana bulbilifera Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 13:48:12 -0700 Dear Mary Sue: Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I can understand your point of view, but do not agree with you. I do agree that Cortaderia jubata should be eliminated, this is a weed that is also a fire hazard, Watsonia will never be a fire hazard. Perhaps the point is are all exotic species to be removed and only indigenous species to remain? If such is so, then the majority of grasses on the hillsides in California should also be removed as they are imports from Europe and few native grasses remain. The large number of trees along Highway one are also not native to the area. Where does one start, where does one stop? In the overall scheme of things, the Watsonias are, in my opinion, very low on the priority list for removal. I will, God willing, be going up along this route again soon. I must stop and gather some of the bulbils. Perhaps my opinion is influenced by memories of South Africa. I wonder why, if this species is such a problem, that it has not become a problem in its native habitat. Cheers, John E. Bryan Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > > Dear All, > > Last week we were able to drive by one of the weedy public patches of > Watsonia that I mentioned earlier. We didn't get a chance to stop and take > a picture until we were on our way home and then it was late in the day and > not everything is in focus. But you can see the potential problem with this > species when you look at all those bulbils on one stalk! Think of them all > falling off and extending in all directions. They can root right on top of > the soil. I was paying attention as we drove and there are some really bad > patches next to the highway and other places where they are only a few > plants now, but will be hundreds in years to come. These pictures were > taken right along Highway One next to Salt Point State Park. I added the > text below and pictures to the wiki: > > Watsonia meriana ssp. bulbilifera produces bubils in the leaf axis and in > the right climate can become a big pest as it has in coastal northern > California. These two photos by Bob Rutemoeller although not very clear > show the large number of bubils and the drying foliage which makes an ugly > and ever extending display along Highway One in Sonoma and Mendocino Counties. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_bulbils.jpg > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Watsonia_meriana_bulb.jpg > > Roy, if your plants did not produce these bubils maybe what you have is not > the problem plant. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 13 01:14:18 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030812215606.00cff270@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Cyrtanthus/Amaryllis blooms Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 22:04:28 -0700 Dear All, As I madly try to get ready to go to South Africa there are a few things about to bloom that I will be very disappointed to miss. I hover over them every day saying, "Please please bloom." One of them is my Cyrtanthus elatus x montanus. Bill Dijk gave some of those little bulbs that Mark described on his plants a number of years ago and I planted them. I have since given quite a lot to our BX as my plants grew big, but did not bloom and made baby bulbs like mad. So I asked this group for help. Alberto said plant in a much bigger pot and deeper. Jim Shields who was getting multiple bloom a year from his agreed and Ken Kehl said he had his outside. So I potted up in my biggest pot and planted them deeper and now there are not so many of those little bulbs on the surface. And I moved the pot outside in the late spring. And now there are five lovely flowers that just have to bloom before I leave. I love the outside color of them so at least I have that to enjoy. I am sure our Cyrtanthus experts will answer Mark's question. Perhaps planting deeper in a big pot will help too. I am hoping we will discuss Cyrtanthus in detail this fall as a topic of a week if Paul Chapman finds the time during his vacation to do his introduction. The Bessera bulbs I got from Diana's spring sale are going to bloom too, but I am not as hopeful about them opening before I leave. Yesterday my first Amaryllis belladonna hybrids opened. Only three, but I suppose others could appear later. The species has been out and about where I live, but the ones I have in my garden haven't bloomed for three years even though they used to. The bulbs are rather large and produce leaves. Perhaps it is too shady where they are. Do they need to be divided when they get that large to bloom properly? Mary Sue From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Aug 13 10:21:18 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Fw: [Lilium] I Need Help! Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 08:29:06 -0500 Dear All'; Just back from a week away. Anna's picture is Lycoris squamigera. Very common in Tulsa where Amaryllis B is too tender. Nice picture too. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jshields104@insightbb.com Wed Aug 13 12:02:55 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030813110131.023ca6f0@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Cyrtanthus/Amaryllis blooms Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 11:02:48 -0500 Mary Sue, Just so you don't miss it, I've posted a fresh picture of Cyrtanthus [elatus X montanus] in bloom at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/PhotoGallery/PhotoGallery.html Regards, Jim ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From Blee811@aol.com Wed Aug 13 12:10:26 2003 Message-Id: <19a.190538e3.2c6bbcf0@aol.com> From: Blee811@aol.com Subject: Another Lycoris Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 12:10:24 EDT As far as I know, we cannot grow Lycoris radiata in my area, SW Ohio, Zone 6a. However, I now have in bloom, Lycoris chinensis, a great golden yellow flower. It is grown in the open. I want more of this one! Bill Lee From jshields104@insightbb.com Wed Aug 13 12:43:48 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030813113718.00aef9c8@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Another Lycoris Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 11:43:47 -0500 Bill and all, You should be able to grow Lycoris radiata radiata there, if you pick your spot carefully. I got some bulbs from Rodney Barton in Texas two years ago, and they are doing OK here. They do not dop well in pots! The diploid subspecies of L. radiata does not survive here, at least not where I have tried it so far. The Lycoris sanguinea was the very first one open. It is a tiny little thing, orange flowered. L. longituba were the first of the large flowered types to bloom, but chinensis and sprengeri are close behind. In the older parts of the town, L. squamigera bloomed well ahead of my plants out here, where things are more open. Regards, Jim Shields At 12:10 PM 8/13/2003 -0400, you wrote: >As far as I know, we cannot grow Lycoris radiata in my area, SW Ohio, Zone >6a. However, I now have in bloom, Lycoris chinensis, a great golden yellow >flower. It is grown in the open. I want more of this one! >Bill Lee ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Wed Aug 13 13:40:39 2003 Message-Id: <20030813174037.55422.qmail@web40508.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 10:40:37 -0700 (PDT) Yesterday my first Amaryllis belladonna hybrids opened. Only three, but I suppose others could appear later. The species has been out and about where I live, but the ones I have in my garden haven't bloomed for three years even though they used to. The bulbs are rather large and produce leaves. Perhaps it is too shady where they are. Do they need to be divided when they get that large to bloom properly? Mary Sue Mary Sue, I find in my garden, So Calif, the belladonnas do better in full sun. They also do better if divided every 3 years, they multiply so much that they tend to push the older bulbs up out of the ground and only the newer ones, in the ground bloom. If you seperate the older ones or the ones out of the ground and replant they too will bloom, but the roots like to be at least touching the ground. I have several I've divided and due to lack of pots just lay them in a planter and they are now all blooming too. I have over a hundred in bloom right now throughtout the garden and will be dividing this fall, any one interested in them please email me privately. Ann Marie Ann Marie Rametta So. California, San Gabriel Valley, Zone 21 (Sunset Western Garden book) , influenced by both marine and interior air(Santa Ana winds). This makes it perfect for Citrus trees, Lilacs, some tropical plants and most So African plants. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Wed Aug 13 16:16:52 2003 Message-Id: <15f.24653d92.2c6bf6b0@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Sandersonia Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 16:16:48 EDT In a message dated 8/10/2003 2:12:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, msittner@mcn.org writes: > This from Rachel: > > "Sandersonias are extremely susceptible to a whole range of diseases Thank you Rachel. Fortunately, there have been no problems here yet. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 www.therapyshapes.com USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue From jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Wed Aug 13 17:16:40 2003 Message-Id: <20030813211640.246DB20016@happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu> From: jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Subject: hello from Nebraska! Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 21:16:38 +0000 Hi all, It's been more than I bargained for, but me, Peter, our cat, and our stuff are now finally together in our new home in Nebraska. I have already received several BX payments here at my new address. This includes your payment, ROBERT PARKER. Thank you all for being so prompt. In case anyone has a few old payment slips with the old address, let me confirm the new one for you: Jennifer Hildebrand/Pacific Bulb Society 2000 SW 16 St. Lincoln, NE 68522 I'm having all the necessary stuff sent to me from Bank of America so that I can make long-distance deposits (no B of As in NE). Soon I'll be making a large deposit, so for any of you who might have been wondering about uncleared checks - they'll go in the bank soon! Thanks to all who have given moving and growing advice! Jennifer PBS Treasurer in Lincoln, NE, zone 4 From c-mueller@tamu.edu Wed Aug 13 21:14:28 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: hello from Nebraska! Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 20:08:51 -0500 >>> jennifer.hildebrand@att.net wrote, Hi all, It's been more than I bargained for, but me, Peter, our cat, and our stuff are now finally together in our new home in Nebraska. .... Jennifer, we're all glad to hear you made it to Nebraska. Your next narrative will need to be about your cellar, with heat and light for your bulbs that went to Nebraska with you...either that, or your bulbs will have to spend their winters in dormancy under the bed. Cynthia Mueller College Station, TX Zone 8b-9 From msittner@mcn.org Thu Aug 14 01:12:12 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030813220129.00da5e20@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Eucomis - Topic of the Week Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2003 22:05:30 -0700 Dear All, I'll try again. The plant below was labeled Eucomis autumnalis (pink) by the Huntington. But all the pictures I see of E. autumnalis show it with pure white flowers. Could this be E. comosa instead? I smelled it and couldn't really detect a bad smell or really much of a smell. Is this one of those things that not everyone can smell or do some species have an unpleasant smell and others not. If so, can anyone tell us which ones have an unpleasant smell? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_sp.jpg http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_sp._close.jpg Thanks. Mary Sue From angelopalm69@inwind.it Thu Aug 14 04:06:03 2003 Message-Id: <001301c3623a$a4da48e0$859e623e@f1q3z7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 10:03:34 +0200 I agree with Ann Marie, as my Amaryllis don't bloom anymore if the bulbs are pushed out of the soil from the new offsets. So I divide them every 3-4 years and I plant them rather deep 15cm (6") below soil level. Now all in full flowering ! Angelo Porcelli ...well roasted in south of Italy From cyrtanthus@blueyonder.co.uk Thu Aug 14 17:10:09 2003 Message-Id: <000001c362a8$a3445ca0$a99130d5@cyrtanthus> From: "Dr Paul Chapman" Subject: cyrtanthus spiralis Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 22:05:32 +0100 Mark, You have kept it alive for 2 years in Northern Ireland. You must have everything perfectly under control! As you may guess from my email address, Cyrtanthus is one of my main bulb interests. I have grown about 30 different species, yet every attempt with C. spiralis has ended in dismal failure, with the bulb rotting in less than 12 months, no matter how little water I gave it. Don't expect too much, and my suggestion is to carry on just the way you are. Today the first of my autumn/fall flowering Cyrtanthus hybrids opened its flowers - very similar to C. montanus. Paul Dr Paul Chapman, Wallington, Surrey, UK South London commuter belt suburbia - zone 9a - but where today has been the first day for 2 weeks that the temperature has not reached 30oC/86oF, although still very sunny mailto:cyrtanthus@blueyonder.co.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: [pbs] cyrtanthus spiralis I have a bulb of Cyrtanthus spiralis which I traded for 2 years ago. When I got it it was a small bulb and it grew well. Last year it grew well again and is now the size of half a film cannister. This year all it has done is produce bulbs around it's side as well as growing a single leaf on the parent bulb. It's in a plastic pot filled with 50/50 top soil and grit and gets full sun all day from 10am until 7pm. Am I doing something wrong? Mark N Ireland zone 8 From jshields104@insightbb.com Thu Aug 14 20:27:59 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030814191118.00ae9158@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Nerine angulata Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 19:27:56 -0500 Hi all, The first bulb of Nerine angulata is blooming here. I've posted an image to the Bulbs_Images@yahoogroups.com list. The flowers are light pink and span about 45 mm (ca. 1.75 inches) across the face. The bulb came from Cameron and Rhoda McMaster, and I think it is about 4 years old. I've also posted a picture of it in my Photo Gallery at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/PhotoGallery/ These are said to be quite reliable blooming once they reach flowering size. We also have found that N. filifolia is a most reliably blooming plant. My oldest bulbs, 5 in one 2-gallon pot, are putting up 5 scapes as I write. I have planted a few bulbs of N. angulata out in the rock garden, to test their winter hardiness here. I have a couple bulbs of N. krigei and of Nerine 'Pink Triumph' in the same rock garden. Next summer, I'll let everyone know how these tests turns out! Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From samclan@redshift.com Thu Aug 14 23:14:58 2003 Message-Id: <3F3C500E.4010407@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 20:14:22 -0700 I have a number of bulbs from the Doutts in Santa Barbara and currently have a couple of knock-out blooms of a pink and white amaryllis they apparently hybridized. It's pretty spectacular and I thank Betty for sharing in with me and my friends. Shirley Meneice Angelo Porcelli wrote: > I agree with Ann Marie, as my Amaryllis don't bloom anymore if the bulbs are pushed out of the soil from the new offsets. So I divide them every 3-4 years and I plant them rather deep 15cm (6") below soil level. Now all in full flowering ! > > Angelo Porcelli > ...well roasted in south of Italy > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > . > From annejim@acay.com.au Fri Aug 15 03:04:45 2003 Message-Id: <3F3C8694.9030909@acay.com.au> From: Jim Lykos Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:07:00 +1000 Hi Ann Marie and Angelo, In my experience the division of the bulbs helps in producing larger sized bulbs and eventually this results in increased numbers on flowers an umbel, but it has no effect on inducing an Amaryllis bulb to flower. In the southern dry inland parts of my state I have seen 120 year old grave plots with around 4 layers of Amaryllis belladonna filling the grave area, and given the right rainfall conditions they have hundreds of inflorescences. Last year we experienced the driest year on record - a drought throughout the eastern states of Australia, but in my area outside Sydney, the drought broke in the last month of summer (February) with a 6 inch down pour. I then had a field month photographing the marvellous flowerings of large clumps of Amaryllis - in areas and suburbs where in previous years one would at best see half a dozen inflorescences from a clump - but this year there were 30 to 50 inflorescences in flower in some garden clumps of Amaryllis. A friend who grows Amaryllis multiflora varieties in clay loam in full sun with half the bulbs exposed - (never divided) - and watered only by rainfall, commented to me that it was the best flowering he has ever experienced! I actually achieved the same result in my garden by heavily watering the Amaryllis clumps from mid summer - by heavy watering I mean drip watering each clump for a a whole day each fortnight during mid to late summer (one month). A dry hot summer followed by inundation is a reliable way of inducing a heavy Amaryllis flowering. Cheers Jim Lykos Springwood Australia Zone 9 Angelo Porcelli wrote: >I agree with Ann Marie, as my Amaryllis don't bloom anymore if the bulbs are pushed out of the soil from the new offsets. So I divide them every 3-4 years and I plant them rather deep 15cm (6") below soil level. Now all in full flowering ! > >Angelo Porcelli >...well roasted in south of Italy >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Aug 15 09:38:49 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:04:49 -0500 Dear All; Jane and Tony both mention hardiness down to 5 Degrees F. After growing a pot of Eucomis hybrids until they were pushing the sides of the pot, I planted a half dozen in the ground this spring with the intention of leaving them there over winter. After a recovery period, they have grown well and look great even in our continuing severe drought. Anyone have success growing Eucomis in climates with even colder winters? We normally get below 0F. Will my plants be mush come next spring? Thanks. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Fri Aug 15 11:30:19 2003 Message-Id: <20030815153018.83139.qmail@web40514.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 08:30:18 -0700 (PDT) I too have several bulbs from Betty Doutt, my white with pink tips have been in bloom now for a week, the raspberry ones, which are my favorite have not made an entrance yet, my hot pink with white tips is just starting to bud. All of the bulbs and seed I got from Betty are doing really well, the bulbs are multipling and the seed are growing, thanks Betty. Ann Marie Shirley Meneice wrote:I have a number of bulbs from the Doutts in Santa Barbara and currently have a couple of knock-out blooms of a pink and white amaryllis they apparently hybridized. It's pretty spectacular and I thank Betty for sharing in with me and my friends. Shirley Meneice Angelo Porcelli wrote: > I agree with Ann Marie, as my Amaryllis don't bloom anymore if the bulbs are pushed out of the soil from the new offsets. So I divide them every 3-4 years and I plant them rather deep 15cm (6") below soil level. Now all in full flowering ! > > Angelo Porcelli > ...well roasted in south of Italy > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > . > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Ann Marie So. California, San Gabriel Valley, Zone 21 (Sunset Western Garden book) , influenced by both marine and interior air(Santa Ana winds). This makes it perfect for Citrus trees, Lilacs, some tropical plants and most So African plants. Collect belladonnas, nerines, oxalis, moraea, amaryllis, palms, epiphyllums, succulents and other south african bulbs. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From dells@voicenet.com Fri Aug 15 11:55:57 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 38 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 11:58:05 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 38" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Mark Mazer: BULBS/CORMS 1. Lachenalia liliflora 2. Lachenalia attenuata 3. Lachenalia obscura 4. Lachenalia juncifolia 5. Lachenalia unicolor 6. Lachenalia peersii 7. Lachenalia isopetala 8. Lachenalia glaucina 9. Lachenalia namaquensis 10. Lachenalia comptonii 11. Lachenalia thomasiae 12. Lachenalia alba 13. Lachenalia mathewsii 14. Lachenalia pallida 15. Lachenalia viridiflora 16. Blandfordia grandiflora 17. Ixia flexuosa 18. Hesperantha humilis 19. Chamelum frigidum 20. Ferraria crispa, dark form 21. Veltheimia bracteata 22. Sparaxis elegans 23. Ixia monadelphia 24. Gladiolus carmineus 25. Geissorhiza monanthos Thank you, Mark !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From msittner@mcn.org Fri Aug 15 13:29:16 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030815101547.00b31480@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Wayne Roderick Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 10:28:25 -0700 Dear All, I'm not a member of Alpine-l list and only this morning learned from a friend that Wayne Roderick had died. I wanted to post this for those of you who hadn't heard yet. So I am feeling very sad about losing him, but you can't think of Wayne and his contributions without also feeling very glad for all those years he did live. Wayne is well known to rock garden fans and California native plant fans. He has left behind articles he wrote about plants and memories for so many of us. In his Northern California garden he grew bulbs and boasted year round color with no water. Every year he opened his garden to visitors in the spring and the fall. He loved to hike and see plants in the wild and over the years took many to see some of his favorites. He is responsible for some California bulbs being widely available as he introduced them to the Dutch. (Calochortus 'Golden Orb' is an example.) Wayne had a twinkle in his eye and you never knew what he might say. He isn't a person easily forgotten. We managed to get him to some of our Northern California bulb meetings at Jana's. Although in the last few years he didn't drive much there were always people willing to bring him as we valued his company. He will be missed by so many. Mary Sue From HTD10@columbia.edu Fri Aug 15 19:19:23 2003 Message-Id: <3F3D6A62.809@Columbia.edu> From: Harry Dewey Subject: Wayne Roderick Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 19:18:58 -0400 Thank you for this nice tribute to Wayne Roderick, Sue . For other bulbists who aren't Alpine-L subscribers, but who, like Mary Sue, found his friendships and interests extending far beyond rock gardening, here are some of the tributes paid to him recently on Alpine-L: http://nic.surfnet.nl/scripts/wa.exe?S2=alpine-l&q=Roderick&s=&f=&a=2003&b= Wayne, too, was not a subscriber to Alpine-L, but there were numerous Alpine-L posts about him in the years 1995-2002: http://nic.surfnet.nl/scripts/wa.exe?S2=alpine-l&q=Wayne+Roderick&s=&f=&a=&b=jan+2003 Sic transit gloria mundi Harry Dewey, moderator, Alpine-L Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Dear All, > > I'm not a member of Alpine-l list and only this morning learned from a > friend that Wayne Roderick had died. I wanted to post this for those > of you who hadn't heard yet. So I am feeling very sad about losing > him, but you can't think of Wayne and his contributions without also > feeling very glad for all those years he did live. > > Wayne is well known to rock garden fans and California native plant > fans. He has left behind articles he wrote about plants and memories > for so many of us. In his Northern California garden he grew bulbs and > boasted year round color with no water. Every year he opened his > garden to visitors in the spring and the fall. He loved to hike and > see plants in the wild and over the years took many to see some of his > favorites. He is responsible for some California bulbs being widely > available as he introduced them to the Dutch. (Calochortus 'Golden > Orb' is an example.) Wayne had a twinkle in his eye and you never knew > what he might say. He isn't a person easily forgotten. We managed to > get him to some of our Northern California bulb meetings at Jana's. > Although in the last few years he didn't drive much there were always > people willing to bring him as we valued his company. He will be > missed by so many. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Aug 15 20:01:06 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Wayne Roderick Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 00:01:05 +0000 From skylark20@msn.com Fri Aug 15 20:29:54 2003 Message-Id: From: "ROBERT PARKER" Subject: Wayne Roderick Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:29:53 -0700 ----- Original Message ----- From: Alberto Castillo Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 5:01 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Wayne Roderick _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.phpGet more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Aug 15 21:12:35 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030815180901.00b4a678@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Wayne Roderick Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 18:12:32 -0700 I am compiling a memorial article to appear in the Rock Garden Quarterly, winter 2003, for Wayne Roderick. Anyone who would like to contribute to it can send me something privately or post it on this forum or Alpine-L. I will obtain permission individually for postings that I would like to use in the memorial. I would also be interested in printing a few color photos of Wayne with friends looking at plants in the field. Any materials you send will be returned and fully credited. I'm sure there are many people reading this who enjoyed Wayne's high-speed botanizing and received his favorite accolade -- "I hate you!" Jane McGary Editor, Rock Garden Quarterly From dells@voicenet.com Sat Aug 16 07:20:21 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: FW: BX 38 Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 07:22:39 -0400 ---------- From: ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Aug 15 13:53:16 2003 Date: Fri, 15 Aug 2003 17:53:14 +0000 To: dells@voicenet.com Subject: BX 38 Hi Dell: Below find enclosed the cycles for items of BX 38 Regards Alberto 1. Lachenalia liliflora (W) 2. Lachenalia attenuata (W) 3. Lachenalia obscura (W) 4. Lachenalia juncifolia(W) 5. Lachenalia unicolor (W) 6. Lachenalia peersii (W) 7. Lachenalia isopetala (W) 8. Lachenalia glaucina (W) 9. Lachenalia namaquensis W) 10. Lachenalia comptonii (W) 11. Lachenalia thomasiae (W) 12. Lachenalia alba (W) 13. Lachenalia mathewsii (W) 14. Lachenalia pallida (W) 15. Lachenalia viridiflora (W) 16. Blandfordia grandiflora (SE) 17. Ixia flexuosa (W) 18. Hesperantha humilis (W) 19. Chamelum frigidum (SE) 20. Ferraria crispa, dark form (W) 21. Veltheimia bracteata (W) 22. Sparaxis elegans W) 23. Ixia monadelphia (W) 24. Gladiolus carmineus (W) 25. Geissorhiza monanthos (W) Thank you, Alberto! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ¿Estás buscando un auto nuevo? Haz clic aquí... From jglatt@ptd.net Sat Aug 16 11:21:04 2003 Message-Id: <000b01c3640b$25205680$3721bacc@oemcomputer> From: "Judy Glattstein" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 11:29:11 -0400 I've had one plant of Mirabilis longiflora for years, raised from seed that came to me from Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's estate. (Now there was a president. How can you improve on someone who said that the best service one could do for one's country is discover a new plant of value. But I digress.) Of course in my New Jersey climate this American native from west Texas, Arizona and Mexico must be container grown. It has thick, substantial roots covered with rough "bark." I don't know what to call them - some kind of tuber? They are woody in texture, which I know from one year when it got accidentally sliced as it was being dug up. It prefers good drainage, sunshine, and not too much water. Scandant in growth, the lax stems are equally happy when they can scramble up an adjacent shrub or simply sprawl on the ground. After it accidentally got the chop that autumn, I grow it in a pot and provide a supporting framework of twigs as scaffolding. Softly downy heart-shaped medium green leaves make a modest covering, standing out from the stems on long petioles. In late summer the long-tubed small white flowers appear in clusters of three, each flower accented with violet stamens. Night blooming, it has a sweet fragrance. Winter storage is in my unheated, attached garage, where temperatures can drop to 38° Fahrenheit during cold spells. I used to dig in late autumn (when it was planted out) and pack it in a box, surrounded with dry peat moss. Now I just take it out of its pot and box it up with no packing material. My plant is at least 10 years old, perhaps a year or two more. Does anyone else grow this charming native? Has anyone seen it growing wild? Is anyone else interested in it? regards, Judy in New Jersey, where the sun came out yesterday, and neither the plants nor I knew what to make of it after so much rain. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 16 12:28:02 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 16:28:01 +0000 From pbrooks3@sc.rr.com Sat Aug 16 13:03:29 2003 Message-Id: <000c01c36418$5205cb50$6401a8c0@home> From: "Patricia Brooks" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 13:03:31 -0400 Alberto, We are not getting your message. Pat SC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alberto Castillo" To: Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2003 12:28 PM Subject: [pbs] Mirabilis longiflora > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From khixson@nu-world.com Sat Aug 16 13:31:36 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.3.32.20030816103113.0098cd60@pop.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 10:31:13 -0700 Hi, Judy >It has thick, substantial roots >covered with rough "bark." I don't know what to call them - some kind of >tuber? and not too much water. Scandant in >growth, the lax stems are equally happy when they can scramble up an >adjacent shrub or simply sprawl on the ground. I also grow Mirabilis longiflora, in western Oregon, wet winters but Z7. It is a sprawler. Moved to a dry spot where it didn't get summer water, it didn't survive. I should try again, it surely should thrive in dry summers. Both Mirabilis jalapa and M. multiflora thrive in the same area it now occupies. I seldom get to that area after dark, so haven't noticed fragrance, which is something I'm interested in. I've tried a couple times to hybridize these three species, but failed, primarily because it is hard to keep track of which flowers were pollenated. The seeds also drop easily if you don't watch closely. "Tuberous roots" comes about as close as I am able to name the storage organs of these plants. None of these species has thrived for many years in containers here, eventually dying out-though they may replace themselves from seed. Mirabilis longiflora ought to be nice in a very large planter, where it could sprawl to its heart's content. Mirabilis jalapa can be dug and stored like a dahlia, though I never bother, since it survives the winter in the wet ground. Digging Mirabilis longiflora might be a challenge. Ken From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 16 18:12:35 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 22:12:33 +0000 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 16 18:17:58 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora repost Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 22:17:57 +0000 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 16 18:31:58 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 22:31:57 +0000 Dear Judy: “Does anyone else grow this charming native? Has anyone seen it growing wild? Is anyone else interested in it?” I am supposed to have it in the collection and it is in a large border with other perennials in the open. It is different than the rather weedy Mirabilis jalapa (that also has tuberous roots) mainly in being more compact and rounded in shape, and not weedy. One thing of interest in your message is the description of the flowers. Mine has yellow flowers and these had always made me think I have the wrong plant. . Can you eventually post an image to PBS? Regards Alberto P. S.: otherwise my “longiflora” is a nice dependable plant that flowers for many months until late autumn _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From jshields104@insightbb.com Sat Aug 16 20:39:25 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030816193600.023c5a60@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: New web pages on Nerine Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 19:39:20 -0500 Hi all, I've received some nice pictures from Charles Craib, so I'm putting a few of them up on new web pages in my garden site. These are at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/NerineGracilis.html and http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/NerineRehmannii.html I hope you enjoy Charles' pictures. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From c-mueller@tamu.edu Sat Aug 16 21:16:49 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 20:16:01 -0500 Dear Alberto and all, Alberto, you mentioned that your M. longiflora had yellow flowers and that had always made you wonder if it was really the species. I thought there was a bed of them in several colors up near the house at Monticello when I was there last year. I know Monticello sometimes sells seed. Dr. William C. Welch of Texas A&M arranged some years ago for a student to collect seed of this plant for the folks at Monticello. I'll ask if the original material had only white blooms. Cynthia W. Mueller College Station, Tx Zone 8b-9 From jglatt@ptd.net Sun Aug 17 14:09:47 2003 Message-Id: <000701c364eb$dc98cf00$0e21bacc@oemcomputer> From: "Judy Glattstein" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 14:17:46 -0400 The shape of the flower on M. longiflora is quite distinct from that of M. jalapa, which is the only other species with which I'm familiar. Those of M. longiflora are daintier in appearance, small in relation to the length of the perianth tube which can be 2 inches or more in length. Also, the flowers come in groups of three, while they appear individually in M. jalapa. My plant has, as I said, white flowers with attractive thread-like violet stamens. The only alternate flower color given in my reference books is "tinged or marked with pink or violet." No yellow. If you knew how many cannas I was digging each autumn (boxes and boxes of them) you'd understand that one mirabilis was not a big deal (except when you chop part of it off.) My plant makes those large dark brown seeds, clasped in a sticky calyx. They often drop to the ground but I've never seen self-sown seedlings. Which could mean it is forming seeds but perhaps they are not viable. I've never bothered sowing seed as one large pot, and storing it over the winter is sufficient. My plant has not been blooming, which I attribute to the very overcast, rainy weather we've been having. The pot is under the roof overhang, so it is not getting soaked. If it does bloom and seed is set I'll sent some to Dell. Does anyone think it would propagate from stem cuttings? If you saw the rootstock / tubers, you'd understand that division is not an option. Alberto, compact is just about the antithesis of how I'd describe M. longiflora, which is a sprawler and a flopper. M. dichotoma, from Mexico, is said to have yellow flowers but not much more is listed about it. And there's M. X hybrida, a cross between M. jalapa X M. longiflora listed in the RHS Dictionary, with "Infl. dense, fls white, sometimes marked or tinted crimson or yellow." Judy From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Sun Aug 17 15:05:30 2003 Message-Id: <3F3FD063.2D9A847B@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Sun, 17 Aug 2003 11:58:43 -0700 Dear Alberto; Am not getting your message. Cheers, John E. Bryan Alberto Castillo wrote: > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Aug 18 11:02:30 2003 Message-Id: <6A29D1BE4E218A4788DFE0211F45B476D3399B@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 10:02:50 -0500 Hi Jim: I'm cautiously optimistic. Missouri Botanical Garden had Eucomis that came back for a number of years. We'll be trialing some at Chicago Botanic Garden this fall. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: James Waddick [mailto:jwaddick@kc.rr.com] Sent: Friday, August 15, 2003 8:05 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Dear All; Jane and Tony both mention hardiness down to 5 Degrees F. After growing a pot of Eucomis hybrids until they were pushing the sides of the pot, I planted a half dozen in the ground this spring with the intention of leaving them there over winter. After a recovery period, they have grown well and look great even in our continuing severe drought. Anyone have success growing Eucomis in climates with even colder winters? We normally get below 0F. Will my plants be mush come next spring? Thanks. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 18 11:44:12 2003 Message-Id: <000c01c3659e$5371a220$7e89eb50@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 16:35:17 +0100 Boyce, In the wild Sentinel Peak regularly gets -10C each year. Thus species such as E. schijffii, E. autumnalis ssp. clavata and E. bicolor should be OK. However, I should imagine that those grown from seed collected from such areas may be a little hardier than those collected from lower altitudes. I have them hear in the heaviest soil on the garden, a clay loam, buried 6 - 7 inches deep, and they come back annually, with temps down to -5C with no problem and no mulch. Here I plant bulbs just deeper than the worst frost can penetrate, and this seems to work here. Thus if the frosts penetrate to 12 inches in Chicago, try planting them 13 inches deep. I think it would be wise to plant mature bulbs this depth though. Remember the deeper you go in the soil, the more stable the temperature, and thus freak warm winter temps. shouldn't break dormancy. One other tip is to go out into the garden early in the morning after a heavy frost. Watch the sun come up, and note where the frost melts first. Thus by planting in these areas, which will get less frost, you'll find a little microclimate for them. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 12:25:20 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030818091828.00b58d10@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:25:15 -0700 David Fenwick wrote, One other tip is to go out into the garden early in the morning after a >heavy frost. Watch the sun come up, and note where the frost melts first. >Thus by planting in these areas, which will get less frost, you'll find a >little microclimate for them. I have to disagree with this, at least from the viewpoint of a region (the foothills of the Pacific Northwest Cascades) that gets much more frost than David's does. Here, winter frost is frequent, and it doesn't melt at all in certain shaded areas, and not until afternoon in others. I have a good colony of the marginally hardy Muscari macrocarpum in a very well drained raised bed where the winter sun does not reach until midday. Thus, its winter-growing foliage (which is also likely to be very moist here) is frozen for quite a while during cold weather, but it thaws very slowly because the day warms before the sun hits it. Antoine Hoog and I corresponded a little about this plant, which he finds is not winter-hardy for him near Amsterdam, and he agreed that its partly shaded site at my place may protect it to some extent. My plants flower well in early spring despite the beating they take from the cold of midwinter. Another hint is to plant marginal bulbs under open-growing shrubs, which afford some frost protection. The warmest spot in my hilly garden is a west-facing rather steep slope, which receives no morning sun; here I can grow camellias, evergreen kniphofias, and some Californian and South American shrubs that have not survived in other exposures. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Aug 18 12:36:04 2003 Message-Id: <6A29D1BE4E218A4788DFE0211F45B476B974F9@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 11:36:24 -0500 Hi Dave: Great information on those taxa most likely to be hardy. I forwarded it onto the horticulturist in charge of the Bulb Garden. She and I have been discussing hardy bulbs that we can use in Bulb Garden displays that can be used in association with the fall bloomers like Colchicum, Lycoris, the fall blooming Crocus, etc. Our gardens feature intensive displays. Currently annuals are used to 'carry' the flowering season throughout the summer for these groups of bulbs. It is not the best solution. Many fall flowering bulbs damaged in the process of overplanting with annuals. Eucomis, given the summer growth and flowering and (hopefully) hardiness would be a much better solution than annuals. Newer Crocosmia cultivars are very showy and have been tried but apparently are not reliably hardy (perhaps the chipmunks favor the corms - I know the deer and rabbits apparently relished the foliage or maybe it is a simply lack of cold temperature hardiness). With regards to microclimates, we're finding placing plants, including bulbs, in areas that are shaded in early sunrise is our best approach to those that have a tendency to start growth too early. The theory that we have adopted to explain the results in our Garden goes something like this "Apparently the localized warming of the plant tissues in direct sunlight while still surrounded by frost inducing temperatures results in plant tissue injury (locally known as frost cracks in many woody taxa). One theory is the rate at which ice crystals in the plant cells dissolve is important. Those taxa prone to starting growth too early in the season show less tissue damage if sited in a location that is shaded from the first sunlight of the day. This situation (shady and therefor cooler) may discourage them from early season growth as well. We continue to observe and modify the theories. Part of the fun of this profession. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: David Fenwick [mailto:crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk] Sent: Monday, August 18, 2003 10:35 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Boyce, In the wild Sentinel Peak regularly gets -10C each year. Thus species such as E. schijffii, E. autumnalis ssp. clavata and E. bicolor should be OK. However, I should imagine that those grown from seed collected from such areas may be a little hardier than those collected from lower altitudes. I have them hear in the heaviest soil on the garden, a clay loam, buried 6 - 7 inches deep, and they come back annually, with temps down to -5C with no problem and no mulch. Here I plant bulbs just deeper than the worst frost can penetrate, and this seems to work here. Thus if the frosts penetrate to 12 inches in Chicago, try planting them 13 inches deep. I think it would be wise to plant mature bulbs this depth though. Remember the deeper you go in the soil, the more stable the temperature, and thus freak warm winter temps. shouldn't break dormancy. One other tip is to go out into the garden early in the morning after a heavy frost. Watch the sun come up, and note where the frost melts first. Thus by planting in these areas, which will get less frost, you'll find a little microclimate for them. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From marque219@yahoo.com Mon Aug 18 12:55:50 2003 Message-Id: <20030818165549.1717.qmail@web9206.mail.yahoo.com> From: Mark Wilcox Subject: Colchicum graecum Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 09:55:49 -0700 (PDT) Dear All, Yesterday I noticed that I have first flowering on Colchicum graecum, which was planted last fall. Does it typically bloom so early? Lycoris squamigera has just finished blooming, and L. sprengeri has yet to bloom. Perhaps the unusually wet and comparatively cool temperatures we've had this year are responsible? I'd welcome any ideas to explain this unexpected surprise. Mark Wilcox Washington, DC Zone 7 From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 18 13:16:53 2003 Message-Id: <000601c365ab$464759c0$7e89eb50@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:07:58 +0100 Hi Jane, I agree about tree and shrub protection from frost completely, and I use this here to grow Chasmanthe outdoors. Regarding the frost issue I should have said for South African bulbs, as this is what I was implying, and as per Eucomis. Locals in South Africa refer to these sudden cold frosts as Black Frost and they usually occur after rain. Yes we are warmer here in the SW UK, but sudden frosts like this are very damaging indeed and are not the norm. Hence, on east facing slopes, around buildings and under trees they are much less damaging, and of course I was talking about winter dormant bulbs and not ones in leaf. Sorry for any misunderstanding. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From dells@voicenet.com Mon Aug 18 13:10:03 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 38 CLOSED Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:12:21 -0400 Dear All, Packages wikll go out Tuesday or Wednesday. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 18 13:49:11 2003 Message-Id: <000b01c365af$c979f100$7e89eb50@VRouter.com> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 18:40:16 +0100 Hi Boyce, >>>>Currently annuals are used to 'carry' the flowering season throughout the summer for these groups of bulbs. It is not the best solution. Many fall flowering bulbs damaged in the process of overplanting with annuals. Here I use an annually planted groundcover for bulbs. A mixture of succulents and low short lived perennials and to give extra interest and colour around them. The succulents I use, I refer to as 'sacrificial groundcover'; thus they are planted as a barrier between the frost and soil, an insultator. The planting also helps clear the ground of excess moisture around the bulbs in winter, and keeps the ground cool, and bulbs semi-shaded in summer. Succulents I use for this include, Carpobrotus muirii, various Lampranthus and Delosperma cooperi; and always some survive to take cuttings from, for repeating the process and replanting the following year. Most of them root and are ready for planting in just four weeks, in good weather cuttings can be direct stuck into the ground as cuttings. The other plants I use for the same purpose include, Pelargonium grossularoides which will easily cover a metre per annum, and is easy from seed and produces lots of it. The other very useful plant is Wahlenbergia sp., that was collected at Sentinel Peak, seed has a long viability, at least 4 years, and again the plant produces lots of it. This plant will flower profusely and very quickly from seed, and in just 3 months, producing lots of 1 1/2 inch sky - light blue flowers. Rather surprisingly rarely does it come through the winter, but it's so easy as an annual it's not worth overwintering it. Hebenstriatia are also good, and root from cuttings in just two weeks, but these can become woody very quickly and quickly need replanting from new cuttings. >>>>Eucomis, given the summer growth and flowering and (hopefully) hardiness would be a much better solution than annuals. Most probably, but the best thing about Eucomis is that they are very late into leaf, and hence there should not be a problem from frost as they generally rise from the ground well after the risk of hard frost has passed, eg. mid-May. Here I grow a crop of Gladiolus tristis and x colvillei around them and these always go over before the Eucomis break ground. Hence you could grow a few wallflowers or spring bulbs in the beds before the Eucomis come through, and to achieve a succession of interest. >>>>Newer Crocosmia cultivars are very showy and have been tried but apparently are not reliably hardy (perhaps the chipmunks favor the corms - I know the deer and rabbits apparently relished the foliage or maybe it is a simply lack of cold temperature hardiness). You must try hybrids from both C. masoniorum or C. paniculata, indeed C. pearsei may be hardy if you can get it. Fortunately there are a lot of hybrids between both C. masoniorum and C. paniculata, and you should have the best luck with these. Some of the corms of these are about the size of tennis balls and hence you will be able to plant these much deeper than any other Crocosmia. I'll have save some seed for you, as some of these come relatively true from seed, eg. 'Zeal Giant'. >>>>>We continue to observe and modify the theories. Part of the fun of this profession. We do, and it sure is. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Aug 18 14:05:16 2003 Message-Id: <6A29D1BE4E218A4788DFE0211F45B476D339A4@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 13:05:36 -0500 Hi Dave: Many thanks for the suggestions for companion plants. Most of these genera are new to me so a few trials will probably be in order. Would really appreciate Crocosmia seeds of those you think have a potential for hardiness and that have a chance of coming true. Eucomis is also a 'late arriver' in the Chicago area, well after frost (usually). Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org >>>>Newer Crocosmia cultivars are very showy and have been tried but apparently are not reliably hardy (perhaps the chipmunks favor the corms - I know the deer and rabbits apparently relished the foliage or maybe it is a simply lack of cold temperature hardiness). You must try hybrids from both C. masoniorum or C. paniculata, indeed C. pearsei may be hardy if you can get it. Fortunately there are a lot of hybrids between both C. masoniorum and C. paniculata, and you should have the best luck with these. Some of the corms of these are about the size of tennis balls and hence you will be able to plant these much deeper than any other Crocosmia. I'll have save some seed for you, as some of these come relatively true from seed, eg. 'Zeal Giant'. >>>>>We continue to observe and modify the theories. Part of the fun of this profession. We do, and it sure is. Best Wishes, Dave Websites: www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com Address: David Fenwick NCCPG National Collection of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 04/08/03 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Aug 18 15:26:13 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030818122404.00bc4eb8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum graecum Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 12:26:08 -0700 Mark Wilcox in Washington DC wrote, Yesterday I noticed that I have first flowering on Colchicum graecum, >which was planted last fall. Does it typically bloom so early? Lycoris >squamigera has just finished blooming, and L. sprengeri has yet to bloom. > >Perhaps the unusually wet and comparatively cool temperatures we've had >this year are responsible? I'd welcome any ideas to explain this >unexpected surprise. Some fall bulbs seem to respond to water and some to lower soil temperature. The earliest Colchicum to flower here is usually C. alpinum, which is as the name implies a plant of higher elevations, where it would have to bloom earlier to go through its reproductive cycle. I think that Colchicums are more likely to respond to moisture -- they often bloom in their shipping bags, where moisture is retained but where one supposes they are fairly warm. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon. No colchicums yet. From peter.maynard@btinternet.com Mon Aug 18 18:09:59 2003 Message-Id: <007101c365d5$746e7020$64218751@peterwnv6m6tql> From: "peter maynard" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 23:09:54 +0100 I am finding that the small species Eucomis vandermerwei is apparently hardier than it was ! I have for years maintained this plant in a 7in plastic pot under glass where each year the pot begins to perceptibly bulge at the sides Havinge saturated the gifts market I have planted several bulbs at various sites in a rock garden and on raised beds Some of these experiments have done well and are flowering now although others with different exposures have died. Very fond of this eucomis only 10" tall , heavily spotted leaves with a purple tint. The flowers are green with purple edges. Trouble is the flower stems are surrounded and overtopped by leaves and I have never made a good quality photo . Peter.Maynard@btinternet.com S.E. England Zone 8 Coastal Plain natales grate numeras From fagus@yahoo.com Mon Aug 18 20:12:56 2003 Message-Id: <20030819001255.2496.qmail@web10805.mail.yahoo.com> From: Subject: Colchicum graecum Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 17:12:55 -0700 (PDT) --- Mark; I think we had an extensive discussion back in the IBS days of what triggers flower initiation. I think that Sir Smithers commented on how his first experience with a flowering bulb was a colchicum that his mother gave him as he went off to school, only to see it flower on the shelf of his boarding school room. Arnold __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From msittner@mcn.org Mon Aug 18 22:31:22 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030818192721.00cf93a0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Topic of the Week--Arisaema Date: Mon, 18 Aug 2003 19:30:29 -0700 Dear All, I'm not sure what happened to the introduction for the topic of the week this week. Perhaps it will come later in the week. I grow no Arisaemas but know a lot of you do and that they have been mentioned a lot. And there are many interesting pictures of them on the wiki. So until the introduction arrives perhaps some of you can tell us which are your favorites and why and others ask questions about them. Thanks. Mary Sue From xenderdrax@yahoo.com.au Mon Aug 18 23:50:23 2003 Message-Id: <20030819035022.20728.qmail@web14906.mail.yahoo.com> From: =?iso-8859-1?q?Xenderdrax?= Subject: Where on earth????????? Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 13:50:22 +1000 (EST) Can anyone tell me where on earth I can buy the seeds for the 'Worsleya procera' ??? I have scoured EVERYWHERE from Brazil to the U.S.A including all over Australia. I'm beginning to think I'll be able to find Saddam easier :) Can anyone please help me???? Put me out of my misery :( Michael Sweating it out in the Tropical Northern part of Australia in Townsville. Where the Barrier Reef meets the Rain Forest Min temp 10c Max 38c Humidity between 30% and 90% year round --------------------------------- Yahoo! Search - Looking for more? Try the new Yahoo! Search From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 19 08:37:12 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Worsleya Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 12:37:11 +0000 "Can anyone tell me where on earth I can buy the seeds for the 'Worsleya procera' ??? I have scoured EVERYWHERE from Brazil to the U.S.A including all over Australia. I'm beginning to think I'll be able to find Saddam easier Can anyone please help me???? Put me out of my misery " Hi: The same happened with Tecophilaea cyanocrocus years ago of which seed were commercially offered at high prices. Now they are seen in seed exchanges several times a year. It will take time before Worsleya seed is more widely available. Brazil has severe penalties for collecting plants in the wild and Worsleya is federally endangered. This has removed a lot of the material from the trade. One of the main problems is that Worsleya has certain requirements that must be met. It is not a weed! As for your question, a few seeds are available for sale every year in Australia and New Zealand. The problem is that their number is far exceeded by demand Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 19 08:45:40 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 12:45:38 +0000 Dear Mary Sue: I am not sure why so many of us are fascinated by Arisaemas. In my mild climate most of those in general cultivation are shade plants and that do not enjoy our summer heat. To the point that seed imported from the other Hemisphere germinates in our autumn and grows during our winter and looks happier than when they resume growth during our spirng and summers. Of course those species of Arisaemas that would be easy here, in Cape Town, Tauranga, Perth or Melbourne are not in general cultivation as they would be tender in temperate climates. Worth mentioning is the fact that they are mostly propagated from seed and do not offset as easily as other bulbs. The tubers must also be planted deep as they produce roots from the upper surface. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, YupiMSN Compras: www.yupimsn.com/compras From jshields104@insightbb.com Tue Aug 19 08:58:51 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030819073817.00ae2b50@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Topic of the Week--Arisaema Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 07:58:50 -0500 Hi all, I'm becoming quite fond of Arisaema. It started when I was a kid, growing up in Indiana. A highlight of any spring wildflower trek into the woods was to find Jack in the Pulpit, our native Arisaema triphyllum. Jack's pulpit is usually green, striped with white or light green, but occasionally you find one that is purple-brown striped with light green or white. I've found that the following are quite hardy here in central Indiana (USDA cold zone 5): Arisaema triphyllum (native here) A. dracontium (another native) A. ringens A. fargesii A. serratum A. candidissimum A. consanguineum A. sikokianum Surviving but not blooming: Arisaema sazensoo A. kishidae Doubtful: Arisaema thunbergii thunbergii and A. thunbergii urashima Arisaema sikokianum is the spectacular plant with the dark brown "pulpit" and the snow white, club-shaped "jack". It is one of the early bloomers. Many. like our native A. triphyllum, come up and bloom in spring. There are a few that come up much later and bloom in summer: A. consanguineum and A. fargesii, for example. The late growth habit probably makes them much less susceptible to damage from spring freezes here. I am looking forward to trying such species as A. heterophyllum, also supposed to be quite hardy here. I am also starting some from seed, obtained from the AEG (Arisaema Enthusiasts Group) seed exchange. AEG is an electronic plant society, like Alpine-L, and resides on the same listserver -- Surfnet.NL Go to http://listserv.surfnet.nl/archives/arisaema-l.html for more information. I have a modest page for Arisaema in my own web site, and there are links there to better pages: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/Arisaema.html I grow all the species that I have in the ground, in my woodland garden. Most of these are from China. There are tender species from other parts of Asia that most of us cannot grow outdoors, so they are grown in pots. I saw a couple really odd looking, unidentified Arisaema in the greenhouses of the University of Basel Botanic Garden a year or two ago in Switzerland. I think they were from Thailand or Burma. The species I am aware of all grow in the summer and rest in the winter. Winter wet may cause them to rot. I will be interested to learn what species grow in the Mediterranean climate of the West Coast and how the manage to survive. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana At 07:30 PM 8/18/2003 -0700, you wrote: >Dear All, > >I'm not sure what happened to the introduction for the topic of the week >this week. Perhaps it will come later in the week. I grow no Arisaemas but >know a lot of you do and that they have been mentioned a lot. And there >are many interesting pictures of them on the wiki. > >So until the introduction arrives perhaps some of you can tell us which >are your favorites and why and others ask questions about them. > >Thanks. > >Mary Sue > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 19 09:24:46 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 08:24:29 -0500 Dear All; I would like to point out a fascinating new book* called : The Genus Arisaema: A Monograph for Botanists and Nature Lovers by Guy Gusman and Liliane Gusman published a few months ago and available from Timber Press and amazon.com. Beware of arisaema-lust. I would also like to note that the genus contains a wide variety of species including very hardy and very tropical species, but also those that prefer moist sites, dry, sun or shade. Perhaps more than most genera, planting site selection is very important as some of the most widely offered can be very intolerant of winter wet, for example. Unfortunately most of the species in commerce are those from N. America, China, Japan and the Himalayas, but more come from far wider areas. Some are in the hands of collectors and should be distributed further. I wonder if it might be appropriate to include in this TOW other small genera of comparable aroids such as Arisarum, Typhonium, Dracunculus, but not Arum which surely deserves its own TOW. Any thoughts? And their is an excellent electronic group 'Arisaema-L' devoted to these plants. Check out their archives on specifics. I'll report on my successes and failures later. Best Jim W. * Popular related books include: 'Himalayan cobra-lilies (Arisaema):their botany and culture' by Udai C. Pradhan - subject self explanatory, and Aroids: Plants of the Arum Family by Deni Bown - an excellent intro to the entire family. 2nd Edition just out in the last year or so. Highly recommended. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From msittner@mcn.org Tue Aug 19 10:23:02 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030819070403.00da8a20@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 07:22:03 -0700 Dear All, There will be another Aroid topic coming still this year that Steve Marak has promised me he will introduce and he's pondering a couple of possibilities. One of them is hardy Aroids besides Arum and Arisaema. So to leave his options open and because it sounds like there would be a lot to discuss on Arisaema I suggest we keep the topic just to that. Thanks to you who have already got us started. Since I know so little about them I have already learned that there may be some for us in moderate climates and some for those in colder climates. Rob Hamilton grows a lot in Tasmania and I know Diana is fond of them so hopefully we will learn about both kinds. Our wiki page features pictures from Rob, Arnold T., Mark McDonough, and Bonaventure Magrys. Bonaventure asked the group if his was really Arisaema wilsonii, but I'm not sure anyone confirmed it. Feel free to expand on this page folks. I have hoped someone would write a little more about some of the background of the plants so people would know about growing conditions. After the few posts so far I think that would be very helpful. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Arisaema Mary Sue From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Aug 19 15:00:47 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030819082448.00bba940@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 08:30:52 -0700 I don't grow many arisaemas, thanks to the slugs and a soil that is not retentive enough for most of them, but just yesterday I was wondering about one that I have in a pot. I got the seed as Arisaema anatolicum. It is only about 8 inches/20 cm tall and this spring bore a flower on a stem below the level of the two divided leaves. The flower was small and green, shaped something like that of A. flavum. To my surprise (since I thought arisaemas were not self-fertile), it has formed a cluster of fruits which are just starting to turn red. I don't find this species in the books I have here (I don't have the new Gusman book). Can someone inform me about it? I assume from the name that it grows in Turkey. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From decoy.farm@zetnet.co.uk Tue Aug 19 14:36:04 2003 Message-Id: <2003081917220682433@zetnet.co.uk> From: Janet Galpin and Oliver Patterson Subject: Topic of the Week--Arisaema Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 17:22:06 +0100 I so far have only Arisaema consanguineum at flowering size and established in a dryish woodland area in England in what is probably roughly Zone 8. It seems tolerant of fairly dry conditions in shade. I find Arisaemas easy from seed. They germinate quite readily and survive my semi-neglect either out of doors or under the staging in the greenhouse. They seem to take about three years to reach a size where it feels safe to plant them out. Then another year or two to flower. My strongest plant has set seed for the first time this year, six or seven years after the original seed was sown. Janet Galpin, Lincolnshire, UK, Av min temp -7 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 19 14:06:35 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris & Drought Part 2 Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 13:00:20 -0500 Dear All; A quick count tallied almost 200 bloom stalks on various Lycoris, but a disappointment. Many plants that had multiple stalks last year had only 1 or 2 this year. Others (as reported earlier ) were very dwarf (4 inches tall instead of 30 inches). Thee comprise only a few of the early species and hybrids. A batch of 25 L squamigera sported 3 stalks where last year there were 10 x this many. L. longituba is about 1/5 of its last years' stalks. Only a few spots are looking good. 2 dozen stalks of L. sprengeria are a showy clump and a dozen L. incarnata have impact, but both of these are in well watered places, the majority have had far less than 1/2 inch of rain over the last 2 months. I just started to water a bed with about 75 bulbs of various species and stalks have quickly begun to show compared to other beds of the same species with NO stalks up yet. With essentially no rain and definitely no deep rain and temps still skirting above 100 F (104 F today) the season will be considerably worse than last year. There are many more species and hybrids to come. Should we ever get rain (and cooler temps) I'd hope to see considerably more bloom stalks in my future. This is perhaps an extreme test, but I am very curious to see the results of a good heavy rain on stalk production. First it must rain, won't it? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 19 15:06:09 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 19:06:07 +0000 Dear all: First, Jane, how surprising that there could be an Arisaema west of the Himalayas. Secondly, Arisaema is a very large genus and if this topic should include other genera, then Pinellias must be first. These can be regarded as ultra easy "Arisaemas". Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From magrysbo@shu.edu Tue Aug 19 15:25:36 2003 Message-Id: From: "Bonaventure W Magrys" Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:25:28 -0400 Yes, mine was Arisaema wilsonii. Happy to say its pollen has set a few berries on reproductively isolated Arisaema triphyllum female inflorescences. Hopefully the offspring will be hardier than the high-altitude cooler growing and dry summer loving wilsonii/elephas/handelii Asian complex of species. The wilsonii tuber soon shriveled but left me 6 small grape-sized offsets around the crown of the old tuber. Griffithii quickly went dormant after blooming also but I managed to save its tuber and placed its pollen on the very hardy and easy growing amurense and ringens! A.sikokianum pulled through a rough winter here in New Jersey by being planted in raised beds or higher spots in the garden but I did lose thunbergii. Bonaventure From jshields104@insightbb.com Tue Aug 19 15:49:57 2003 Message-Id: <5.0.0.25.2.20030819144419.00b0fe30@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 14:49:48 -0500 Hi all, Bonaventure reminds me -- I put some pollen of Arisaema serratum on A. ringens, and the fruit head is still green and firm. Maybe I'll get some [ringens X serratum] seedlings out of this! I have not tried plants or seeds of wilsonii or griffithii, but I have seedlings sprouting of jaquemontii, ciliatum liubaense, and flavum. I tried elephas from seed once and apparently got nothing. I have seedlings from A. consanguineum already planted out in the woodland garden. What they say is mostly true -- Arisaema are very easy from seed, if the seed germinates at all. Regards, Jim Shields At 03:25 PM 8/19/2003 -0400, you wrote: >Yes, mine was Arisaema wilsonii. Happy to say its pollen has set a few >berries on reproductively isolated Arisaema triphyllum female >inflorescences. >Hopefully the offspring will be hardier than the high-altitude cooler >growing and dry summer loving wilsonii/elephas/handelii Asian complex of >species. The wilsonii tuber soon shriveled but left me 6 small grape-sized >offsets around the crown of the old tuber. Griffithii quickly went dormant >after blooming also but I managed to save its tuber and placed its pollen >on the very hardy and easy growing amurense and ringens! A.sikokianum >pulled through a rough winter here in New Jersey by being planted in raised >beds or higher spots in the garden but I did lose thunbergii. > >Bonaventure ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 19 17:40:01 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 14:57:26 -0500 >Jane wrote: "Arisaema anatolicum. It is only about 8 inches/20 cm >tall and this spring bore a flower on a stem below the level of the >two divided leaves. The flower was small and green, shaped something >like that of A. flavum. To my surprise (since I thought arisaemas >were not self-fertile), it has formed a cluster of fruits which are >just starting to turn red. Dear Jane; There's no A anatolicum in the Gusman book synonymy lists, but your description sure fits A. flavum which is found from E. Africa to W. China ( 3 ssp.). Self sterility is not always the case. the fruit of A flavum looks like a rounded raspberry. A. flavum does well in dry even somewhat sunny sits on thin soils. Needless to say it grows well here. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From eagle85@flash.net Tue Aug 19 20:17:02 2003 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: New image Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 17:07:07 -0700 I have just posted an image of Haemanthus carneus, one of the seldom seen Haemanthus. Doug Westfall http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Haemanthus%20carneus.jpg From nargsbs@efn.org Wed Aug 20 02:58:06 2003 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 00:17:48 -0000 I am embarrassed to realize that I have dropped the ball a bit here. I was supposed to do the intro for Arisaema this week, but now there have been a couple of messages jumping (quite rightly) the gun, so I'd best get cracking. First, the disclaimers: I am certainly no expert on the genus, not having grown them for very long (our first A. sikokianum and ringens were purchased about 10 years ago), but we do fairly well with them because we live in a suitable climate zone for many and have a sandy loam soil, which they seem to appreciate. Also, we grow quite a number for the nursery. The best way to tackle this is probably to talk a bit about the ones that we, ourselves, grow in the garden and nursery, remembering that we have not had a very severe winter in about 10 years. I will let others talk about the ones that I have missed that they grow. The genus, according to the treatment in Gusman's recent book, _The Genus Arisaema_, is made up of 14 sections, but the classification is rather complex and, although I highly recommend the book for anyone interested even remotely in the genus, I am not going to belabor the botanical details here. A. speciosum--a spectacular species with a trifoliolate leaf with red on the lower surface and an attractive flower with a long-threaded spadix appendage and purple and white stripes on the spath. It has done very well for us in both pots and in the ground, although we have not had very cold winters recently. One mystery is that the upper parts look exactly like speciosum, but the tuber is flattened and round, not elongated as shown in the book. A. griffithii--One of our favorites because of its somewhat sinister appearance. It is about the same size as speciosum for us, somewhat over two feet, and is finally starting to offset well. For quite a few years, we got only one leaf and one flower. After probably 5 years, last year, for the first time, we got two flowers and three leaves and this year there were 5 flowers and many leaves! What we grow is probably what is often called var. pradhanii, with a very wide-spreading "reptilian hood-like spathe-limb". It does indeed look like a cobra. The color is a deep chocolate-purple. So far this has never set seed for us, even with attempts at hand-pollination. Highly variable, so search out a good clone. A. utile--Somewhat similar to griffithii (and often sold under the name A. verrucosum a syn. for griffithii), but with a whitish receptacle to the inflorescense, rather than the purple of griffithii. That seems a rather minor difference, but they are distinct in appearance, although hard to describe the difference succinctly. This has not offset for us in the garden and does not set seed for us, sadly. A. wilsonii--A relatively new plant for us from Dan Hinkley at Heronswood. His form is fully 4 feet tall and gorgeous in fruit. There is a very large patch at the N. end of the display gardens at Heronswood. This is also trifoliolate and the fruiting spike is 10-20 cm. long! The inflorescense is an attractive striped white/purple and the peduncle ("flower" stem) is held separately (dividing at ground level) from the petiole (leaf stem), so the fruits are very easy to see as they are held very high. A. flavum--Comes in many different clones varying in size of plant and flower and intensity of color of the flower. It is the commonest species in cultivation, probably owing to its setting seed freely by self-pollination. It has cute, tubby little yellow flowers and pedatisect leaves, radiating in a fan from the petiole. Size varies from about a foot at first flowering to 3' in the "giant form". It has been very easy and increases freely by seed. A. thunbergii ssp. urashima--From Japan, as is the following species, growing to about 2 feet and having pedatisect leaves and a purplish inflorescense with a very long thread-like spadix-appendix. Hasn't set seed or obviously offset for us yet in about 8 years, although I haven't dug it up to see whether they just haven't sent up independent leaves yet. A. kiushianum--Perhaps the 'cutest' of the arisaemas, growing to only about a foot for us, with owlish little striped "flowers" (I'm going to use this term from now on for the inflorescense, even though inaccurate), held very close to the ground with a multicolored spath, slightly hooded and with a spadix appendage that sticks upward out of the spath. Hasn't increased for us in about 4 years by either offsets or seed. A. candidissimum--A wonderful species that offsets freely, sets seed and is beautiful besides! They flowers can vary from white to pink forms, are striped with greenish and are open facing the viewer. They can be a bit hidden by the tripartate foliage, but a large patch does look glorious. It is VERY late to emerge and always gives one a bit of concern, when it doesn't, and then, surprise when it does finally emerge. Vies in my mind with A. sikokianum as the most elegant of the arisaemas. Said to be faintly fragrant after opening, but I haven't ever noticed that. A. fargesii--Also offsets freely, but has an attractive purple/white striped spath. The tuber is reddish and somewhat glossy. Trifoliolate leaves with a large apical leaflet, turn a pleasant golden in the fall. Very similar to franchetianum, which we recently obtained, but differs in having strongly recurved mouth-margins, whereas, franchetianum does not. A. nepenthoides--A tall plant with radiatisect (palmate) leaves and tannish colored, eared flowers (having auricles) in the form we have. It also has attractive, darkly spotted 'stems'. It grows to about a meter tall. Flowers are variable among the various forms. Arisaemas from the Section Pedatisecta are going to be grouped for the purposes of this discussion. We grow and do well with, AA. ringens, ovale var. sadoense, amurense, sazensoo, sikokianum, kishidae, iyoanum, maximowiczii, tashiroi, yamatense and serratum. Most are perfectly hardy and easy, so far, in the garden and a few set seed. A. sikokianum is our favorite arisaema, especially in its silver-leaved forms, with its dark spathe and pure white, bulbous spadix. It sets seed for us lightly. Spathe limbs on most in the section are plain or longitudinally striped and the leaves are trifoliolate (technically they are spirodistichous, but think three leaflets). AA. sazensoo and iyoanum, in the forms that we have from Barry Yinger at Asiatica, are very beautiful, very dark, forms, among our 'must haves'. A. ringens has very imposing, glossy leaves, although the interesting helmet-like flowers are hidden beneath the three-part foliage. Others in the section are interesting to collectors, but not sensational (in my humble opinion), at least in the forms that we have. A. consanguineum--One of the 'workhorses' of the genus, lovely with its radiatisect leaf (think umbrella-like). It sets seed for us readily and also offsets. It is somewhat variable with emergence time, strength of stem and color of the inflorescense (greenish to purplish), but they are almost all nice, especially when planted in a group. A. taiwanense--A gorgeous, heavy, mottled 'stem' makes this species a standout in the garden. It has great presence in the garden and also has the drip tips that consanguineum does, but is heavier in over-all appearance--sturdy would be apt--and the flower color is darker. It also sets lots of seed for us. And last, but not least by any means, Section Tortuosa A. tortuosum--one of the best in the genus, being also the largest (up to 7 feet!--over 2 m.) and having a 'comical' dark spadix-appendix that first heads horizontal and then turns abruptly skyward!. Seems easy to grow, setting seed and offsetting well. We also grow dracontium, negishii, and heterophyllum, but we have not had them long enough to offer insights, except to say that I am wondering whether heterophyllum will be reliably hardy for us here is Z. 7 Sorry if this is overly long and I apologize for the delay in posting. One thing that we could talk about in the discussion is the well-known tendency of arisaemas to skip a year, or two, or even three! if conditions are not to their liking. We have pulled tags when we first were getting into them, thinking they had died and a couple of years later, there they were! Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene OR 97402-9284 USA Phone: 541 935-3915 FAX: 541 935-0863 Eugene, Oregon is USDA Zone 8a on the map, but we can only grow Zone 7 plants reliably. Member of NARGS, SRGC, RHS, American Primula Society, Meconopsis Group, Alpine-L, Arisaema-L, Hellebore Group "Peace is not merely a distant goal that we seek, but a means by which we arrive at that goal." -- Martin Luther King, Jr. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Jane McGary Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2003 3:31 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Arisaema TOW I don't grow many arisaemas, thanks to the slugs and a soil that is not retentive enough for most of them, but just yesterday I was wondering about one that I have in a pot. I got the seed as Arisaema anatolicum. It is only about 8 inches/20 cm tall and this spring bore a flower on a stem below the level of the two divided leaves. The flower was small and green, shaped something like that of A. flavum. To my surprise (since I thought arisaemas were not self-fertile), it has formed a cluster of fruits which are just starting to turn red. I don't find this species in the books I have here (I don't have the new Gusman book). Can someone inform me about it? I assume from the name that it grows in Turkey. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Aug 19 20:33:13 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030819173058.00bb7b10@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 17:33:07 -0700 Jim Waddick wrote,There's no A anatolicum in the Gusman book synonymy lists, but your description sure fits A. flavum which is found from E. Africa to W. China ( 3 ssp.). Self sterility is not always the case. the fruit of A flavum looks like a rounded raspberry. " I grew this from seed collected by a Czech, and they often use names from Soviet floras that are not in general use in the West, so probably some Russian botanist just decided to split it off at some time in the past. Maybe it's a subspecies. The fruit does look like a raspberry. So I guess it is just an ugly A. flavum from western Asia. Oh well. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 19 20:33:47 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Mirabilis longiflora Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 00:33:45 +0000 Hi girls: Many thanks for the info. Now I am sure that I do not have the real thing. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From onager@midtown.net Wed Aug 20 01:52:24 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030819201523.01732fb8@pop3.midtown.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2003 20:25:03 -0700 Hi Jane, Thanksbe to generous family and kind friends at Christmas. With accumulated gift cards, I was able to buy the recently published 'The Genus Arisaema, A Monograph for Botanists and Nature Lovers, Guy and Liliane Gusman. I did a quick perusal by species name and found nothing. I also belong to the Arisaema list, a sub-group of the Aroid list. I will post your query there. Kind regards, Joyce Miller Thanks to Ernesto Sandoval, Curator at the Botanical Conservatory, UC/Davis and Dr. Ceni, I have two mature Arisaema: A. ringens and A. fargesii. Both bloomed this year. Big suckers! A. ringen at maturity will be 36" wide. I also have several pots of germinating A. thanks to their seed exchange. Joyce E. Miller mailto:onager@midtown.net Zone USDA 9A Summer highs 100+degrees F for several to many days. Winter lows 27 degrees F From roberth6@mac.com Wed Aug 20 07:09:09 2003 Message-Id: <57849ED8-D2FE-11D7-84DC-0003938EDBFA@mac.com> From: Robert Hamilton Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 21:06:26 +1000 Hi Jane and others, > So I guess it is just an ugly A. flavum from western Asia. Oh well. I sounds like a very desirable form of Arisaema flavum to me!! Yes I am very fond of this genus and Alberto mentioned one of the traits which I really like with this genus. That is, seed germinates so easily at any time of the year provided it is warm enough. So as an Australian whose collection started in the Northern Hemisphere seed exchanges it meant getting two seasons of growth in the first year. Seed sown in late summer germinates readily and grows on often into winter. After a short dormancy they will reappear in the next spring (which is is the same calendar year for us) although they often appear a little later and some species notably A sikokianum occasionally stays in the same cycle that it germinated , taking some years to acclimatize. As a general rule when in doubt I keep Arisaema species I am not sure about dry during winter. (but not 1st and 2nd season seedlings which get winter rain) This has caused some cultural problems . I put a pot containing a couple of A angustatum seedlings which didnt appear last summer aside, intending to tip out and tidy. It sat on my potting table experiencing winter rain and yesterday I discovered an emerging shoot. The lesson being that this species sulked because of the winter dryness. So many bulb genera have fairly rigid cultural needs and cycles - Arisaema certainly doesnt and its oddball habits and appearance endear it to me. Cheers, Rob in Tasmania From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 20 10:23:16 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030820065912.00cfbcf0@mail.mcn.org> From: "David Fenwick" (by way of Mary Sue Ittner ) Subject: Latest warning Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 07:09:55 -0700 Dear Everyone, I am redirecting this message from Dave about the latest virus to the list. All attachments and html are stripped from the list before they are sent out so the PBS list is safe, but other email may not be. One of my husband's email addresses got about 10 messages with this virus yesterday and we update our anti-virus all the time. He deleted all of them (he thought) without opening them and then downloaded the latest update. Later when backing up our files before our trip there was one he missed and the virus software, now updated, found it and removed it. Mary Sue Hi Mary Sue, Mary Sue, I'm not one for scare mongering but there's a new virus out there. It's called Sobig, and could pose a serious threat. Apparently it was only released last night but I've already seen it here repeatedly. Please advise everyone on the list to update their anti-virus software. There is a removal tool at the following link. http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.sobig.f@mm.html Best Wishes, Dave Fenwick From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 20 10:38:31 2003 Message-Id: <4.2.2.20030820072703.00db4a50@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: South Africa trip Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 07:37:26 -0700 Dear All, My husband and I are leaving today for South Africa. We will be attending the Bulb and Corm Symposium sponsored by the Indigenous Bulb Association of South Africa and are looking forward to visiting with some of the members of this list who will be attending too. After the driest winter in 100 years which means a lot of things will be under ground not up, in honor of our arrival the weather pattern has recently changed and it has been raining and snowing! So please everyone focus on rain for when we have the talks not when we are looking at plants in the field. If you need help with the list please contact Arnold while I am gone. If you need help with the wiki please contact Mark McDonough. Although I said there wouldn't be any topics of the week while I am gone, I came up with a plan remembering that our list member, Robert Parker, brainstormed last Thanksgiving and came up with some suggestions of topics. All of the PBS officers have picked one so each week one of them will be announcing one of Robert's suggestions. I hope if any of you can, you will participate. I won't announce what they will be so there will be some anticipation. Thanks Robert and the PBS officers for helping me out. Mary Sue From pbrooks3@sc.rr.com Wed Aug 20 13:52:32 2003 Message-Id: <001801c36743$d93ed7f0$6401a8c0@home> From: "Patricia Brooks" Subject: Latest warning Read this Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 13:52:39 -0400 Subject: [pbs] Re: Latest warning > Dear Everyone, > > I am redirecting this message from Dave about the latest virus to the list. > All attachments and html are stripped from the list before they are sent > out so the PBS list is safe, but other email may not be. One of my > husband's email addresses got about 10 messages with this virus yesterday > and we update our anti-virus all the time. He deleted all of them (he > thought) without opening them and then downloaded the latest update. Later > when backing up our files before our trip there was one he missed and the > virus software, now updated, found it and removed it. > > Mary Sue > > Hi Mary Sue, > Mary Sue, I'm not one for scare mongering but there's a new virus out there. > It's called Sobig, and could pose a serious threat. Apparently it was only > released last night but I've already seen it here repeatedly. Please advise > everyone on the list to update their anti-virus software. > > There is a removal tool at the following link. > http://securityresponse.symantec.com/avcenter/venc/data/w32.sobig.f@mm.html > > Best Wishes, > Dave Fenwick > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From samarak@arachne.uark.edu Wed Aug 20 16:52:53 2003 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Lycoris & Drought Part 2 Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 15:52:51 -0500 (CDT) Jim & list, I ran a small experiment this year. I have lycoris in 2 beds which were watered twice a week all summer, and 1 bed which got no supplemental water. It is, of course, very dry here as it is every summer, though NW Arkansas has had a little more rain than you in Kansas City. The first flowers in each bed opened on the same day. The big difference was, over the next week or so, in the number and height of stems. In the watered beds, nearly every bulb flowered, and every stalk was what I think of as the "right" height - 20-30 inches. In the dry bed, perhaps 1 of 3 bulbs flowered, and many of the stalks were dwarfed as you describe, 4-6 inches tall. (There is a 4th bed with lycoris, but it has only excess squamigeras. Being squamigeras, of course, they all flowered and had perfectly normal stems despite the bed being overgrown with grass and receiving no extra water.) Steve On Tue, 19 Aug 2003, James Waddick wrote: > Dear All; > A quick count tallied almost 200 bloom stalks on various > Lycoris, but a disappointment. Many plants that had multiple stalks > last year had only 1 or 2 this year. Others (as reported earlier ) > were very dwarf (4 inches tall instead of 30 inches). Thee comprise > only a few of the early species and hybrids. ... > I just started to water a bed with about 75 bulbs of various > species and stalks have quickly begun to show compared to other beds > of the same species with NO stalks up yet. -- Steve Marak -- samarak@arachne.uark.edu From fagus@yahoo.com Wed Aug 20 22:15:23 2003 Message-Id: <20030821021522.74149.qmail@web10803.mail.yahoo.com> From: Subject: lycoris longituba Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2003 19:15:22 -0700 (PDT) Lycoris longituba growing well here in New Jersey. Arnold http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lycoris_longituba3.jpg __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Aug 21 10:00:25 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: lycoris longituba Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 08:20:15 -0500 >Lycoris longituba growing well here in New Jersey. > Dear Arnold; This species does great anywhere L squamigera grows. Good news. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Aug 21 10:00:29 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris & Drought Part 2 - flower initiation Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 08:32:04 -0500 Dear Steve and all; Very interesting post. I don't have exactly as you have-watered-versus unwatered for comparison. We have had even more drought though so I think I can give other examples. I have a row of approximately 25 L. chinensis and 25 L. squamigera (not mixed). I get multiple stalks from each bulb regularly. So far this row has received only an occasional random hand sprinkling and produced only three (total) 4 inch stalks on L. squamigera, none on chinensis. In a slightly moister part of the garden, 2 small trees are surrounded by a ringed Lycoris bed again about 25 bulbs each of L. squamigera and L. caldwellii. The squamigera has produced about a dozen foot tall stalks and the caldwellii has produced none. I recently watered both so ... we shall see. L. caldwellii is a later bloomer so it might still catch up I am getting the same results as you if more extreme. L. squamigera is very common around the metro area and great clumps are in bloom in typical urban and suburban landscapes especially where the lawn is watered. Seems to be normal in size and number. This sure suggests that water is not the prime 'key' to initiate bloom, and at a continuing high temp (over 100 for a week), the onset of cooler fall weather isn't likely either. So what initiates bloom in Lycoris? Some internal clock? A call from Alabama said they expect L. radiata to bloom on or by Sept 7 every year like the swallows returning to Capistrano. Earth's magnetic field? The moon's influence? Anyone's guess. Back to the drawing boards Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Thu Aug 21 10:21:21 2003 Message-Id: <3F44D55D.8080102@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Lycoris & Drought Part 2 - flower initiation Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 09:21:17 -0500 Jim: I could not venture to guess the actual triggering mechanism, but I do believe it is primarily internal and only minimally influenced by earth, wind, water, or fire. I do believe combinations of a couple of those elements influence the quality and quantity of bloom, but that initiation is triggered by something like you mention with whimsy, a clock, gravitational pull, etc. I have watched closely the timing of Lycoris squamigera in our area of the country for several years now, and we are guaranteed first bloom to be the last week of July, without fail. Another flush seems to appear again 3 weeks later. How well they bloom, how high they go, etc. is probably related to who knows what combination of soil, water availability (complexed by timing), and maybe heat (I am doubtful). When you think about the size of these flower stalks in relation to the size of the bulbs and add to that the incredible speed with which those stalks can grow, it is easy to imagine the amount of available water the bulb needs all at once to create such fantastic cell replication, expansion, then maintenance of turgidity (retention of all that water). James Waddick wrote: > Earth's magnetic field? The moon's influence? Anyone's guess. > > Back to the drawing boards Jim W. -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From JimRFrech@aol.com Thu Aug 21 18:36:10 2003 Message-Id: <1ad.188b7130.2c76a355@aol.com> From: JimRFrech@aol.com Subject: New email forum member Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 18:36:05 EDT Greetings to everyone, My name is Jim Frechette. I have recently joined the email forum here and wanted to introduce myself. I live in west central Florida, USA and I collect various groups of plants. One of the groups that I am especially fascinated by is rainlilies. I had found so little information on the internet concerning them that I decided to create a website that would hopefully act as a reference site to promote and identify them (for lack of a better name I call Rainlily Reference). I have taken a number of shots of them and made a page for each. I hope to continue to add to it with more pictures and more information. If anyone is interested my site's address is: http://rainlily.home.mindspring.com/rainlily.htm I welcome your comments and also look forward to participating in the forum. Thank you for the opportunity, Jim From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu Aug 21 19:49:03 2003 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Giant crocosmia Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 16:49:00 -0700 I was just at a friend's house helping her ID some of her crocosmia, using the pictures on Dave Fenwick's website and matching the flowers with her list of plants bought in Scotland, England and the U.S. Her Emily McKenzie is immense. You could serve sandwiches on the flowers. (well, a tea sandwich maybe). I've just measured and the flower is 8 cm across (3.25 inches). There seem to be a couple of forms growing in Victoria: this immense one which is very brightly coloured - a very broad band of dark red contrasting with the orange. The one sold in nurseries isn't as big or as intense. Could this be because they are growing in pots? -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu Aug 21 22:37:09 2003 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: New email forum member - rainlilies Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 19:37:06 -0700 Jim I enjoyed your rainlily website. I like being able to see a whole page of thumbnails at once, and then enlarge my choices. I must go out and water my rainlily pots. -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 22 09:52:12 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030822235419.00a16270@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 23:54:19 +1000 Howdy All, I was not able to respond to this when it was Topic of the Week, so I will not do so now. I would like to let people know though that I have added a few pictures to the Eucomis page on the wiki..... http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Eucomis I have uploaded pictures of a dwarf white that I have (not at this stage confirmed as to ID) and pictures of 2 Eucomis varieties that start their season with deep purple leaves (one has pink, the other white flowers). Enjoy. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 22 09:59:12 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823000125.00a17640@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Fritillaria purdyi flowering now... Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 00:01:25 +1000 Howdy All, I have just uploaded to the wiki a picture of Fritillaria purdyi that is flowering for me here in Canberra, Australia at the moment. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Fritillaria This is always the first Fritillaria to flower each season. The thing I particularly love about it is that it has an almost crystalline edging to the flower which makes it look like the flower has been delicately dipped in ice. The uploaded photo was taken last year as it particularly captured the "ice" so well. Is anyone else in Australia growing this? If so, I would be interested in sending/receiving pollen to/from someone who has it in flower or close to flowering at the moment. Mine is only a single clone and is apparently self-sterile. I would love to get some seed of this to "backup" my single plant that is somewhat slow to offset. If anyone has this flowering or near flowering please contact me privately. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From theafricangarden@blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 22 10:34:21 2003 Message-Id: <019601c368b9$2ee67700$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:25:05 +0100 Paul, I've just clicked on the link and I can't see your pics at all. Best Wishes, Dave --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Fri Aug 22 10:53:39 2003 Message-Id: <019b01c368bb$e160dae0$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Giant crocosmia Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:44:24 +0100 Hi Diane, >>>>>I was just at a friend's house helping her ID some of her crocosmia, .......Emily McKenzie flower is 8 cm across (3.25 inches). There seem to be a couple of forms growing in Victoria: this immense .......one which is very brightly coloured - a very broad band of dark red contrasting with the orange. The one sold in nurseries isn't as big or as intense. Could this be because they are growing in pots? Diane, I think there might be a couple of things going on here. Firstly it has been an exceptional year here for Crocosmia, and flower size of those in the ground has increased. However this year I covered with bark mulch for the first time, and I'm very glad I did, and this has meant that the corms have been kept moist and cool all through the summer. Usually those in the ground have smaller flowers than those I grow for exhibition purposes in pots. This is primarily because those in the ground have to be more adaptable to changes in the weather throughout the year and hence these are more likely to suffer more stress than those which are grown correctly within pots. Here lies the problem with pot culture, warmer summer weather means more irrigation, and the more you irrigate the more fertiliser is leeched from pots, and in the case of slow release fertilisers, the higher the temps the more fertiliser is released also. Hence, if the compost isn't holding on to its water or its nutrient you'll get smaller flowers. However, if grow correctly and well supplied with feed you'll get the larger flowers. This happened to a friend of mine last year with containers and with Emily McKenzie, in peat free compost, with organic feed. Indeed I took one of the plants away with me because it looked much different to what I grew. This year, on planting it next to EM, I found it was the same plant. It was noticably different last year, much smaller and quite inferior to what is normally grown. His problem was compost and irrigation. Crocosmia are gross feeders and will grow and flower well if Miracle-Gro is applied every couple of weeks in the growing season, watering is also very important, as they need to be well irrigated in dry spells of weather, to get the best from them. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Diane Whitehead" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, August 22, 2003 12:49 AM Subject: [pbs] Giant crocosmia > I was just at a friend's house helping her ID some of her crocosmia, > using the pictures on Dave Fenwick's website and matching the flowers > with her list of plants bought in Scotland, England and the U.S. > > Her Emily McKenzie is immense. You could serve sandwiches on the > flowers. (well, a tea sandwich maybe). I've just measured and the > flower is 8 cm across (3.25 inches). > > There seem to be a couple of forms growing in Victoria: this immense > one which is very brightly coloured - a very broad band of dark red > contrasting with the orange. The one sold in nurseries isn't as big > or as intense. Could this be because they are growing in pots? > > > -- > Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > maritime zone 8 > cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) > sandy soil > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Aug 22 12:23:01 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: WARNING!! Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 16:22:59 +0000 Dear All: I received today as a message the new virus Sobig everyone is talking about. The archive name was your details. pif. Keep watching and do not open the message if you receive it. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Consigue aquí las mejores y mas recientes ofertas de trabajo en América Latina y USA: www.yupimsn.com/empleos From magrysbo@shu.edu Fri Aug 22 17:41:42 2003 Message-Id: From: "Bonaventure W Magrys" Subject: new site/Pinellia question Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 17:41:37 -0400 Doesn't this look like a Pinellia to you? Check out all the other catagories here, aroids, orchids, "mountain turtles". Some cool plants. Found this site while researching Musella lasiocarpa which I just purchased from a roadside nursery yesterday. This message was cross-posted. http://www.natureproducts.net/Forest_Products/Aroids/Arisaema.html Bonaventure Magrys Cliffwood Beach, NJ From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 22 18:21:20 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823082334.00aa6da0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Wiki rollback of Eucomis page? Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 08:23:34 +1000 At 03:25 22/08/03 +0100, you wrote: >Paul, >I've just clicked on the link and I can't see your pics at all. > Dave et al, Beats me where the work I did last night (my time) has gone? Looks like I spent an hour doing nothing!! The pictures I uploaded are all there in the "existing files" list so I am not imagining the fact that I DID upload them , so I suppose it wasn't a complete waste of time. Arnold or anyone who knows the wiki..... has Eucomis been rolled back or something? I know I definitely saved the work I had done, so beats me where it has all gone. The Fritillaria link is still definitely there, at least on my machine, but I have had private posting asking where it is as well. What is going on? Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 22 18:32:04 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823083417.00a1f2d0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 08:34:17 +1000 Dave et al, Further to my wondering what happened to the stuff on the Eucomis page on the wiki.... here are the links to the pictures themselves. If these wrap over the end of the line the links won't work, but you'll need to copy and paste them into your browser rather than just clicking on them. The purple-leaf with white flowers shoots almost black when it first emerges, fadign out to deep purple leaves when fully unfurled. Over the course of the season they slowly fade until at flowering they are green with an overlay of bronze, topped by a 1m or so tall stem of whit flowers. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_purple_leaf_white_flowers.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_purple_leaf_white_flowers_c loseup.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_purple_leaf_white_flowers_s hooting.JPG The purple-leafed with pink flowers shoots dark purple, then the leaves slowly fade to green by flowering. This has attractive pink flowers which I rather love. Only a couple of feet tall though. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_purple_leaf_pink_flowers.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_purple_leaf_pink_flowers_cl oseup.JPG The dwarf white I have had a couple of IDs for so I have left it unnamed. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_dwarf_white.JPG Hopefully this'll allow those who are interested to enjoy the pics I have put up. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From plants_man@bigpond.com Fri Aug 22 18:38:56 2003 Message-Id: <006301c368fd$a4017780$8fe736cb@userbwbb7lkmiq> From: Daryl 'Dash' Geoghegan Subject: WARNING!! Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 08:35:07 +1000 Alberto, Paul and All, Many of these virus try to access my computer.....Vet shoots them down easily way before they get onto my system. Do you guys use this applications for virus safety? Best wishes, Dash. Daryl 'Dash' Geoghegan, Mainly Amaryllids Garden, P O Box 173, Barnawartha,Victoria,3688, Australia. +61 02 60267377 Visit my web site @ www.users.bigpond.com/plants_man/Home.htm Email the Australian Bulb Association at: support@ausbulbs.org ABA Web Sites: http://www.ausbulbs.org Checkout http://www.ausbulbs.org/bulbgal/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alberto Castillo" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 2:22 AM Subject: [pbs] WARNING!! > Dear All: > I received today as a message the new virus Sobig everyone is > talking about. The archive name was your details. pif. > Keep watching and do not open the message if you receive it. > Regards Alberto > > _________________________________________________________________ > Consigue aquí las mejores y mas recientes ofertas de trabajo en América > Latina y USA: www.yupimsn.com/empleos > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From fagus@yahoo.com Fri Aug 22 18:48:19 2003 Message-Id: <20030822224818.2451.qmail@web10808.mail.yahoo.com> From: Subject: your pictures Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 15:48:18 -0700 (PDT) paul: Some of the links were active and some were not. I think some of the names are too long. Did you place them on the page of eucomis. I can try to do that for you later tonight if you like. I had a similar problem with long file names. There is apparently a limit to the length of the name. Arnold __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com From skyblueskies2@yahoo.com Fri Aug 22 19:12:33 2003 Message-Id: <20030822231232.52383.qmail@web41412.mail.yahoo.com> From: Elizabeth Leigh Subject: rainlilies Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 16:12:32 -0700 (PDT) Jim, I have a white rainlily that I rescued from, of all places, a ditch at a chemical plant. Would you like me to get a photo of the flower for your website? Libby Message: 1 Date: Thu, 21 Aug 2003 18:36:05 EDT From: JimRFrech@aol.com Subject: [pbs] New email forum member To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: <1ad.188b7130.2c76a355@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Greetings to everyone, My name is Jim Frechette. I have recently joined the email forum here and wanted to introduce myself. I live in west central Florida, USA and I collect various groups of plants. One of the groups that I am especially fascinated by is rainlilies. I had found so little information on the internet concerning them that I decided to create a website that would hopefully act as a reference site to promote and identify them (for lack of a better name I call Rainlily Reference). I have taken a number of shots of them and made a page for each. I hope to continue to add to it with more pictures and more information. If anyone is interested my site's address is: http://rainlily.home.mindspring.com/rainlily.htm I welcome your comments and also look forward to participating in the forum. Thank you for the opportunity, Jim --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri Aug 22 19:45:24 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823094739.00a26870@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: your pictures Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 09:47:39 +1000 At 03:48 22/08/03 -0700, you wrote: >paul: > >Some of the links were active and some were not. I >think some of the names are too long. Did you place >them on the page of eucomis. I can try to do that for >you later tonight if you like. I had a similar >problem with long file names. There is apparently a >limit to the length of the name. > Arnold, The line length in an email message is always a problem for long file names. That is why I suggested the copy and paste for those who wanted to view them. I put all the links into the wiki Eucomis page, along with a blurb for each of them (I similar for Fritillaria purdyi on the Frit page. The Eucomis additions were at the bottom of the page and said similar to what I said in my email, arraged carefully so links to the same variety were together etc. I have no idea where the hoy it has gone.... a major pain. I'll try to get up there and do it all again this afternoon (my time). Then I'll email the list with the link again. It all worked fine for me last night when I finished as I always check all links before I send the message. For some reason though the changes on the Eucomis page just aren't there any more..... go figure why?? Who knows!! Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From Antennaria@aol.com Fri Aug 22 22:32:49 2003 Message-Id: From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Arisaema TOW Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2003 22:32:33 EDT A. tortuosum--one of the best in the genus, being also the largest (up to 7 feet!--over 2 m.) and having a 'comical' dark spadix-appendix that first heads horizontal and then turns abruptly skyward!. Seems easy to grow, setting seed and offsetting well. We also grow dracontium, negishii, and heterophyllum, but we have not had them long enough to offer insights, except to say that I am wondering whether heterophyllum will be reliably hardy for us here is Z. 7 Actually, I've found Arisaema heterophyllum quite hardy here in nothern New England, USDA Zone 5. Here's a link to the PBS Arisaema page... scroll down for the Arisaema heterophyllum photos. This year my plant produced two flowering spikes, and set viable seed. The plant grows 5' tall or more and is quite imposing. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Arisaema Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sat Aug 23 02:56:54 2003 Message-Id: <002001c36942$6f2ec540$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 07:47:34 +0100 Hi Paul, >>>>The dwarf white I have had a couple of IDs for so I have left it unnamed. Paul dont laugh but it looks identical to a hybrid of Eucomis autumnalis called 'White Dwarf'. It's also actually sold as a packeted bulb and is produced in Holland by the 10s or 100s of thousands. Managed to see you pink flowered form, very nice. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Sat Aug 23 06:24:07 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823202625.00a78320@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:26:25 +1000 >Paul dont laugh but it looks identical to a hybrid of Eucomis autumnalis >called 'White Dwarf'. It's also actually sold as a packeted bulb and is >produced in Holland by the 10s or 100s of thousands. > Dave, Why would i laugh? I have no idea what this is for sure, although I had been told both autumnalis and zambesaicus before (which is why I don't have the ID for sure). I was actually fascinated by the earlier message about all the named hybrids that you had on the list. Certainly nothing named like that over here to my knowledge, at least I have never seen them anyway. We do get a good selection in flower in nurseries each year now, ranging from pure white through the pinky ones. Must admit that my pink flowered purple-leaf is one of the better "coloured" flowers I have seen. I am very pleased with it as it is a good flower colour, with the bonus of the wonderfully dark leaves for ages before it actually flowers. My white one could easily be 'White Dwarf'..... how would I go about finding out for sure? Whatever it is it is a very good reliable flowerer every year, and is a lovely clean pure white and good proportions of leaves to flowers. Thanks for the response. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Sat Aug 23 06:28:34 2003 Message-Id: <3.0.5.32.20030823203053.00ad3d30@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: new site/Pinellia question Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 20:30:53 +1000 At 05:41 22/08/03 -0400, you wrote: >Doesn't this look like a Pinellia to you? Check out all the other >catagories here, aroids, orchids, "mountain turtles". Some cool plants. >Found this site while researching Musella lasiocarpa which I just purchased >from a roadside nursery yesterday. This message was cross-posted. > Bonaventure, Certainly looks like a Pinellia to me, but I have no idea whether there are Arisaemas that look the same or not. To me it looks just like Pinellia tripartita with the tripartite leaves with the interesting vein arrangement that they have and the green elongated flower and spadix whip etc. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 23 12:23:57 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: WARNING!! Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 16:23:55 +0000 Dear all: Of course I also have my antivirus stop a number of messages along the year. What I was making a warning against was the NEW virus that is making a disaster all over these days. Here in Argentina an estimate of 50,000 computer are out of order this past week from it. I deduce you have NOT receive it yet. It was not detected and I could only get rid of it by not opening the message (101 K). Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Aug 23 21:03:46 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030823093507.00b5b710@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria purdyi flowering now... Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 09:43:04 -0700 Paul Tyerman wrote,Fritillaria purdyi that is >flowering for me here in Canberra, Australia at the moment. > > >This is always the first Fritillaria to flower each season. This is interesting, because here in Oregon it is one of the later American species to flower. In the wild, it blooms at the same time as Fritillaria pluriflora, which grows nearby, but here F. pluriflora blooms a month earlier. The first fritillaria to flower here is usually F. stenanthera, but of course it is knocked off its natural schedule by being in a (usually) warmer winter than at home. F. sewerzowii (syn. Korolkowia) is also very early for the same reason, and February usually sees flowers on F. striata, arriana, bucharica, raddeana, eduardii, and some of the yellow Greek-island species of the F. carica/euboica group. (I certainly wish I could get visitors out here in February!) As you can see, the colorful ones seem to flower earlier than the dark purple and green ones; I wonder if it has something to do with the emergence of flies or wasps vs. other pollinators? Bumblebees and other bees are busy here long before I see any wasps. And at the very end of the fritillaria season, the color returns with F. recurva, gentneri, and eastwoodiae (closely related), which are pollinated by hummingbirds--which don't arrive until RIbes sanguineum is in flower in the woods. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From JimRFrech@aol.com Sat Aug 23 15:58:14 2003 Message-Id: <166.24b8ef00.2c79214c@aol.com> From: JimRFrech@aol.com Subject: Rainlilies Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 15:58:04 EDT Diane, thank you for the kind remarks on my site! I'm glad you liked it. Libby, I would certainly be interested in a picture of your rainlily. One of the rainlilies I'd like a shot of is the regular atamasco because it just doesn't seem to like my conditions at all. In addition I don't have candida so if it's either of them I'd like to post it with your permission. Jim From dirkwallace@bigpond.com Sat Aug 23 19:46:09 2003 Message-Id: <001d01c369d1$b5008f60$eae736cb@bamburyc> From: Dirk Wallace Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:53:08 +1000 Hi Paul and Dave, For your interest there are a number of images of Eucomis in the ABA images gallery. Several forms of E. autumnalis are there as well as E. zambesiaca. Does this help? http://www.ausbulbs.org/bulbgal/categories.php?cat_id=37 Eucomis zambesaica tends to offset profusely for me, whereas E. autumnalis generally does not. I do not grow Eucomis autumnalis 'Dwarf White'. Does this one offset at all Dave? Kind regards, Dirk ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Fenwick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 4:47 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Belated Eucomis posting > Hi Paul, > > >>>>The dwarf white I have had a couple of IDs for so I have left it > unnamed. > > Paul dont laugh but it looks identical to a hybrid of Eucomis autumnalis > called 'White Dwarf'. It's also actually sold as a packeted bulb and is > produced in Holland by the 10s or 100s of thousands. > > Managed to see you pink flowered form, very nice. > > Best Wishes, > Dave > > David Fenwick > NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and > Tulbaghia > The African Garden > 96 Wasdale Gardens > Estover > Plymouth > Devon > England > PL6 8TW > > Websites > www.theafricangarden.com > www.crocosmiaheritage.com From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Aug 23 21:14:07 2003 Message-Id: <3F481160.6010803@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Lycoris longituba Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 21:14:08 -0400 As a side fact the scape on the lycoris longituba I posted to the Wiki Wiki is 36 inches tall and sports five blooms. I think this is the tallest and the most flowers I have had. Could it be the rain we have had the last three months here in N New Jersey. Arnold From Antennaria@aol.com Sat Aug 23 23:40:26 2003 Message-Id: <10d.28dd3be0.2c798da8@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Wiki rollback of Eucomis page? Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 23:40:24 EDT Hi Paul, As far as I can tell, your changes to the Eucomis page were never successfully saved. I see nothing in the wiki "Recent Changes" link to indicate there was a version of the Eucomis page that was successfully saved. I do believe there is a time limit once you enter into the EDIT mode of a PBS wiki page... it happened to me once. I made a whole bunch of changes and additions, then the "time out" kicked in, and I lost all of those changes... nothing I could do about it. That's my best guess as to what happened. If you make changes and additions to the PBS wiki, I recommending viewing and saving your edits as you go. I checked all of your links provided in a follow-up message, and they do indeed work... it's just that the PBS wiki pages have no links to your recently uploaded Eucomis photos (your photos are very nice by the way). I recommend you try re-editing the PBS wiki Eucomis page and get those new links in there... and save frequently! By the way, how would you list these?... is there a species assigned, or would you list them as Eucomis species, or Eucomis unnamed selections? If you need further help on this, please email me directly. I've been a little out of touch on PBS wiki these last 3 weeks (been on 3 weeks vacation, rebuilding my deck in mahogany, from dawn to dusk... and too beat to be very active on PBS... it's a huge project for a one-man operation). I also notice that our PBS wiki prankster... a person that regularly uploads all kinds of weird unrelated stuff, including porno, has been very active this week. I delete the files, as does Mary Sue when she's not away on vacation, with great diligence. It should have no effect on PBS wiki pages... it's just some dufus that's uploading weird images, movies, sound files, etc., using the PBS wiki as an FTP file transfer site. So, the long and short of it... I see no signs of a Wiki rollback of the Eucomis page. Try making your edits again, and save after making each major addition within a few minutes time, and the changes should stay permanent. I don't know what the "time-out" period is for editing, but once during the lunchhour at work (a time when I sometimes add things to PBS wiki), I lost all of my changes because I spent about 45 minutes in "edit mode" before trying unsuccessfully to save. Please note: I receive my PBS wiki messages in "digest form", so I see the messages but once a day (if that). I will try and respond as quickly as possible to any PBS email, but please be forwarned that my inbox tends to get hopelessly inundated at times :-) and my responses may seem delayed. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From dirkwallace@bigpond.com Sun Aug 24 00:51:00 2003 Message-Id: <002701c369fb$ee5288c0$70e736cb@bamburyc> From: Dirk Wallace Subject: Fritillaria purdyi flowering now... Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 14:53:34 +1000 Hi Jane, You wrote : And at the very end of the fritillaria season, the color returns > with F. recurva, gentneri, and eastwoodiae (closely related), which are > pollinated by hummingbirds--which don't arrive until RIbes sanguineum is in > flower in the woods. Interesting you say that, as my Fritillaria eastwoodiae are coming into flower now, at the start of the season. This species originally came to me as seed from Jim and Georgie Robinett, and has flowered the last couple of seasons at this time of year (for us it is late Winter/early Spring). Could it be that our edaphic conditions are more suitable (or should I say softer) for them to come up earlier than in the wild? With Fritillaria the shoot emerges with the flowers onboard, so it would seem the earlier they come up the earlier they flower. Does this sound right? Kind regards, Dirk From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 24 01:24:01 2003 Message-Id: <000601c369fe$9d11b960$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Belated Eucomis posting Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 06:14:36 +0100 >>>>>Eucomis zambesaica tends to offset profusely for me, whereas E. autumnalis generally does not. I do not grow Eucomis autumnalis 'Dwarf White'. Does this one offset at all Dave? Hi Dirk, No, not much at all, it's a dwarf compact form thought, very petite, and with no risk of the flower stem falling over. Does very well in slight shade, and this helps keep the white, pure white. Best Wishes, Dave --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Aug 24 21:49:49 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030824092241.00b5cea8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria flowering Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 09:36:40 -0700 Dirk wrote, Interesting you say that, as my Fritillaria eastwoodiae are coming into >flower now, at the start of the season. This species originally came to me >as seed from Jim and Georgie Robinett, and has flowered the last couple of >seasons at this time of year (for us it is late Winter/early Spring). > >Could it be that our edaphic conditions are more suitable (or should I say >softer) for them to come up earlier than in the wild? With Fritillaria the >shoot emerges with the flowers onboard, so it would seem the earlier they >come up the earlier they flower. Does this sound right? It makes sense. Apparently it doesn't hurt these California Fritillaria species to grow and flower earlier than they would in nature as long as they don't get caught by a severe frost in the process. Most of the F. eastwoodiae that I am growing came originally from probably the same Robinett collection as Dirk's did, although I also have another "population" from Ron Ratko's collection about 10 years later. However, flowering doesn't succeed emergence at the same rate in every species. For example, F. viridea and F. recurva emerge here about the same time and grow at the same pace, but the former opens its blooms several weeks before the latter. F. viridea has small green (fly-pollinated?) flowers and comes from farther south than the scarlet, bird-pollinated F. recurva. Another one that flowers well after emergence is F. biflora "grayana." David King has an article in the new issue of the Fritillaria Group newsletter about variation in the widespread F. affinis. He concentrates on flower form. I am growing six groups of this species from different parts of its range, and they flower at different times from early February (large yellow-green from California) to early May (medium-sized conical form from the Oregon Cascades). Forms from coastal California, Vancouver Island, an unidentified location, and the Siskiyous fall in between. These plants are grown here in identical conditions, yet they are obviously responding to some genetic variation in addition to temperature, moisture, day length, etc. There is, however, the point that these forms of F. affinis are different enough among themselves that, were they growing in the eastern Mediterranean region, they might be called different species. I wonder if some species, or groups (complexes?) of species, are more sensitive to environmental "triggers" to growth than others are. It would be interesting to compile information on flowering season in this genus. Perhaps the AGS Fritillaria Group is already doing this, does anyone know? I was just looking at their recent newsletter and wishing they had a website like the PBS wiki so we could look at photos of what are agreed to be representative plants of frit species, since up-to-date documentation is at present scattered in journals not available to most people outside the UK. (If there is one editorial project I'd gladly do for free, it would be helping get Martyn Rix's eternally forthcoming monograph of the genus into print!) Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 24 12:51:51 2003 Message-Id: <3F48ED26.9040900@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: all over the place Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 12:51:50 -0400 A real hodge podge of bulbous plants spanning the world. All pictures taken today. Arnold New Jersey http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_bicolor.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Allium_tuberosum9.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Alocasia_Frydek.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lilium_henryii7.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lilium_sargentiae_6.JPG http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lycoris_longituba1.JPG From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 24 13:20:19 2003 Message-Id: <000401c36a62$a9c1de60$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: all over the place Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 18:10:48 +0100 Arnold, It's Eucomis autumnalis and not E. bicolor, as file name. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arnold Trachtenberg" To: Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 5:51 PM Subject: [pbs] all over the place > A real hodge podge of bulbous plants spanning the world. All pictures > taken today. > > Arnold > New Jersey > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Eucomis_bicolor.JPG > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Allium_tuberosum9.JPG > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Alocasia_Frydek.JPG > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lilium_henryii7.JPG > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lilium_sargentiae_6.JPG > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Lycoris_longituba1.JPG > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From jshields104@insightbb.com Sun Aug 24 13:21:25 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030824121545.026d1738@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Flower anatomy page added to CliviaNet Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 12:21:04 -0500 Hi All, For the botanically disadvantaged, I've posted a page to CliviaNet on Flower Anatomy. You can find it at URL = http://www.clivianet.org/FlowerAnatomy.html It covers things like stigma, style, ovary, stamen, filament, and anther. It uses a Clivia miniata flower as the example, and that is pretty typical for the Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis Family) in general. If you see where it needs to be improved for completeness, clarity, or accuracy, please let me know. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 24 13:24:19 2003 Message-Id: <3F48F4C3.5080508@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: all over the place Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 13:24:19 -0400 Dave; Thanks, for the correction. it was labeled as bicolor from the center I purchased it from. Is there no bicolor or is it a different plant? Arnold From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Aug 24 13:30:27 2003 Message-Id: <3F48F633.9000706@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: all over the place Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 13:30:27 -0400 Dave; Disregard my previous email. I looked over your site and had my question answered. thanks, Arnold From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sun Aug 24 15:31:16 2003 Message-Id: <1d9.fb49d80.2c7a6c7f@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 15:31:11 EDT In a message dated 8/15/2003 9:39:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, jwaddick@kc.rr.com writes: > Anyone have success growing Eucomis in climates with even > colder winters? Eucomis autumnalis ssp. clavatus survived last winter, (-11F/-24C) planted at the base of a south facing wall. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 www.therapyshapes.com USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue From mail@odysseybulbs.com Sun Aug 24 18:51:23 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.0.20030824191430.02452550@pop.earthlink.net> From: "Russell Stafford, Odyssey Bulbs" Subject: Nectaroscordum tripedale Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 19:15:16 -0400 Please excuse the shameless self-advertising, but: As a follow-up to this list's earlier (and enthusiastic) discussion of Nectaroscordum tripedale -- we still have some nice bulbs available. By the way, as with many of our bulbs, these are not from a broker, but direct from a knowledgeable and exceedingly reliable grower. Russell Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs 8984 Meadow Lane, Berrien Springs, Michigan 49103 269-471-4642 www.odysseybulbs.com From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 24 19:26:35 2003 Message-Id: <000e01c36a95$c9adfc80$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 00:16:46 +0100 >>>>>Eucomis autumnalis ssp. clavatus survived last winter, (-11F/-24C) planted at the base of a south facing wall. Mark Mazer Mark, That is truely amazing, thanks for sharing this info.. How deep was it planted ? What soil type ? Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 8:31 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness > In a message dated 8/15/2003 9:39:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > jwaddick@kc.rr.com writes: > > > Anyone have success growing Eucomis in climates with even > > colder winters? > > Eucomis autumnalis ssp. clavatus survived last winter, (-11F/-24C) planted at > the base of a south facing wall. > Mark Mazer > Intarsia Ltd. > Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 > www.therapyshapes.com > USDA Zone 5 > Giant Schnauzer Rescue > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 24 19:27:46 2003 Message-Id: <001501c36a95$f7301260$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: all over the place Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 00:18:02 +0100 >>>>Thanks, for the correction. it was labeled as bicolor from the center I purchased it from. Is there no bicolor or is it a different plant? Hi Arnold, E. bicolor is a different species. Best Wishes, Dave --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Sun Aug 24 19:32:01 2003 Message-Id: <002b01c36a96$8f310920$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: all over the place Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 00:22:17 +0100 Sorry Arnold, Replied before I opened your second mail. Best Wishes, Dave --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From batlette@cox.net Mon Aug 25 01:10:27 2003 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Sun, 24 Aug 2003 22:09:17 -0700 Dear all, In Mary Sue's absence (she is on vacation) your board is going to take turns with the Topic of the Week. These topics were suggested by none other than Robert Parker, one of our illustrious members, and a loyal dinner guest at the bulb dinners I have here at our home twice yearly. This weeks topic is: Have you ever planted a bulb and had it disappear from sight and thought you had lost it only to rediscover it 4-6 years later? My own contribution to this topic (and the reason I chose it from Robert's suggested list) is that I have three Lycoris bulbs that originally came from Jim Waddick (who, for those of you new to PBS, introduced the original idea of the Bulb Exchange some years ago). I planted them at the top of a slope that descends from the back edge of our back yard. I was very new to bulbs at that point and although I was trying very hard to follow all directions exactly, I somehow became confused and planted these bulbs 12 inches deep! Each year as I scanned the slope, they were nowhere in evidence. After two or three years I gave up and emailed Jim W. about the planting particulars. He said they should only be planted about 3 inches deep. It's suicide to go out on that slope except under the most serious emergencies since the whole thing is a 1:1 slope and both John and myself have rolled from the top to the bottom several times while weeding over the years...and we're neither of us is getting any younger either. So I resigned myself to no lycoris bulbs. But THEN, last year as I was surveying the slope from the edge of the back yard I saw one lone flower stalk amid mostly plain dirt. Yes! One of the long-lost lycoris bulbs! Eventually all three appeared that year and bloomed. I am hoping that they will appear again this year. The moral is: don't give up! Cathy Craig EA President PBS From rkrejzl@hotmail.com Mon Aug 25 01:11:06 2003 Message-Id: From: "Robert Krejzl" Subject: Fritillaria flowering Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 05:11:05 +0000 From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Mon Aug 25 06:55:54 2003 Message-Id: <2f.3e00adde.2c7b4534@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Eucomis - TOW-Hardiness Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 06:55:48 EDT In a message dated 8/24/2003 7:26:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk writes: > Eucomis autumnalis ssp. clavatus survived last winter, (-11F/-24C) > planted at > the base of a south facing wall. > Mark Mazer > > Mark, > That is truely amazing, thanks for sharing this info.. > > How deep was it planted ? > What soil type ? > They are 6-7 inches (15-18cm) deep in our sandy soil. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 www.therapyshapes.com USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue From dells@voicenet.com Mon Aug 25 07:27:27 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:30:37 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 39" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Tom Glavich: SEED: 1. Dracunculus vulgaris is a large aroid, spring growing, and fully dormant by mid July. The leaves are tropical, about 18 inches to 2 feet tall. The spathe is dark purple with some white blotching. It smells strongly of rotting meat for the first 12 hours after opening, less so later. 2. Albuca batteriana is a large (4 to 5 inch diameter bulb), essentially evergreen in California, although with a distinct summer dormancy. Spring flowering, with large off-white petals with a pronounced green stripe. From Hamish Sloan: SEED: 3. Zephyranthes "Libra" Pale yellow, upright flower, fairly free flowering. 4. Habranthus magnoi - white flowered trumpet shape, not reflexed petals. 5. Habranthus sp. ? From Robert Parker: 6. Fresh seed of Iris spuria 'Imperial Bronze', Elinor McCown hybrid. From Dell Sherk: 7. Seed of Galtonia candicans. Tall white summer blooming. Supposed to be fragrant, but I could not detect it. Needs full sun. May be hardy to USDA Zone 5. Sow spring. 8. Seed of Cyrtanthus mackenii var cooperi, bright yellow 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink From Richard Smith: 10. Seed of Bloomeria crocea 11. Seed of Brodiaea californica, pink From Cynthia Mueller: 12. Seed of Alophia drummondii (NOT Herbertia lahue). Purple flowers, pleated leaf. From arboretum at Stephen F. Austin Univ., Nogodoches, E. Texas. Grows in sandy soil near bases of pine trees in clearings. 13. Seed of Crinum americanum, leaves are a little rather upright, light green, tough enough to live out in what I would call a rather dry flower bed. From Kelly Irvin: (images of most can be viewed at Kelly's website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ SEED: 14. Allium cernuum 15. Alstroemeria pulchella 16. Habranthus andersonii 17. H. brachyandrus 18. H. robustus 19. H. tubispathus - cream colored with maroon markings 20. Zephyranthes drummondii 21. Z. lindleyana Thank you, Tom, Hamish, Robert, Richard, Cynthia, and Kelly !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From crocosmia@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 25 08:48:29 2003 Message-Id: <000e01c36b05$cbfa68a0$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis Hardiness Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 13:38:33 +0100 >>>>>They are 6-7 inches (15-18cm) deep in our sandy soil. Many thanks Mark, that'll give some people a bit of hope. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Mon Aug 25 09:47:39 2003 Message-Id: <20030825134739.B0B092001F@happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu> From: jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 13:47:39 +0000 Hi Dell, Could I please get: 2. Albuca batteriana 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink 14. Allium cernuum 19. H. tubispathus - cream colored with maroon markings Thanks! Jen From jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Mon Aug 25 09:58:57 2003 Message-Id: <20030825135857.2DAD4200DE@happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu> From: jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 13:58:56 +0000 OOPS! Sorry all. Jennier From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 25 10:50:08 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Eucomis Hardiness Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:26:30 -0500 Dear all; Thasnks for the comments on hardiness. Pewrhaps there is hope for those sacrificial bulbs now in the ground since spring and looking good. I'll report in spring. I don't think they are planted 6 inches deep, but does Eucomis move to its own depth? Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 25 10:50:22 2003 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 09:46:05 -0500 >Cathy wrote; >"This weeks topic is: Have you ever planted a bulb and had it disappear from >sight and thought you had lost it only to rediscover it 4-6 years later?... >Lycoris bulbs ... planted these bulbs 12 inches deep! >I resigned myself to no lycoris bulbs. >Eventually all three appeared..." Dear All; I have mentioned the reluctance of Lycoris to settle down and have many times heard a similar story. I have told this one before ,but it is worth repeating: Fall -planed 25 L. chinensis late in the season (none bloomed) Spring 1 - only 3 appeared with foliage none bloomed Spring 2 -22 appeared with foliage none bloomed Spring 3- all 25 appeared with foliage and many bloomed, some with multiple stalks. The story usually goes "I bought bulbs from you 3( or 4 or 5) years ago and they didn't come up. I assumed they were dead. This fall I looked out towards the garden and saw a patch of (insert color here - yellow, white purple). When I investigated all the bulbs were in full bloom and were gorgeous." > This year although the drought stress continues, many new bulbs planted 1, 2 or 3 years ago are up and blooming (some for the very first time) including some wonderful hybrids, one with royal purple buds that open white rimmed in an undescribable pink-ish tone. L. incarnata is proving itself another to add to the mainstay list of 'squamigera, longituba chinensis and sprengeri*'. I may even get a bloom on L. rosea - very marginally hardy and rarely blooms, but the heat and drought may have won this over. Same for xhaywardii which is normally a shy bloomer here, but putting on a dazzling display with its rich pink flower heads. L. sprengeri are varying from intense blue to faded pink with blue highlights, but all are lovely. One has lovely striped petals. Many ( caldwellii, straminea, radiata etc.)are still not showing signs yet. Yes patience is needed for those bulbs shy to settle down. Jim W. * It continues to amaze me about the deficit in American gardens due to the rarity of Lycoris longituba chinensis and sprengeri. All three are equally trouble free, but, compared to L. squamigera which is very common, these remain rare. I put a blame on the early English (primarily) plant explorers who collected these, but found they did not do well in English gardens so they never got a proper distribution world wide as they surely deserve. Similarly, now that many 'new' species and hybrids are appearing in the US someone really needs to select a few (like some good forms of L. chinensis, L longituba flavum, all blue L. sprengeri and others) and propagate the heck out of it for commercial distribution. They deserve to be in many more gardens. Tissue culture anyone? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 E-fax 419-781-8594 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Mon Aug 25 10:58:52 2003 Message-Id: <20030825145851.24820.qmail@web40511.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:58:51 -0700 (PDT) Sorry to the group but I've tried several times to send this to dell but it won't go thru, id like from this box 2. Albuca batteriana is a large (4 to 5 inch diameter bulb), essentially evergreen in California, although with a distinct summer dormancy. Spring flowering, with large off-white petals with a pronounced green stripe. From Hamish Sloan: SEED: 3. Zephyranthes "Libra" Pale yellow, upright flower, fairly free flowering. Ann Marie Rametta, address on file. Dell Sherk wrote: Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 39" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Tom Glavich: SEED: 1. Dracunculus vulgaris is a large aroid, spring growing, and fully dormant by mid July. The leaves are tropical, about 18 inches to 2 feet tall. The spathe is dark purple with some white blotching. It smells strongly of rotting meat for the first 12 hours after opening, less so later. 2. Albuca batteriana is a large (4 to 5 inch diameter bulb), essentially evergreen in California, although with a distinct summer dormancy. Spring flowering, with large off-white petals with a pronounced green stripe. From Hamish Sloan: SEED: 3. Zephyranthes "Libra" Pale yellow, upright flower, fairly free flowering. 4. Habranthus magnoi - white flowered trumpet shape, not reflexed petals. 5. Habranthus sp. ? From Robert Parker: 6. Fresh seed of Iris spuria 'Imperial Bronze', Elinor McCown hybrid. From Dell Sherk: 7. Seed of Galtonia candicans. Tall white summer blooming. Supposed to be fragrant, but I could not detect it. Needs full sun. May be hardy to USDA Zone 5. Sow spring. 8. Seed of Cyrtanthus mackenii var cooperi, bright yellow 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink From Richard Smith: 10. Seed of Bloomeria crocea 11. Seed of Brodiaea californica, pink From Cynthia Mueller: 12. Seed of Alophia drummondii (NOT Herbertia lahue). Purple flowers, pleated leaf. From arboretum at Stephen F. Austin Univ., Nogodoches, E. Texas. Grows in sandy soil near bases of pine trees in clearings. 13. Seed of Crinum americanum, leaves are a little rather upright, light green, tough enough to live out in what I would call a rather dry flower bed. From Kelly Irvin: (images of most can be viewed at Kelly's website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ SEED: 14. Allium cernuum 15. Alstroemeria pulchella 16. Habranthus andersonii 17. H. brachyandrus 18. H. robustus 19. H. tubispathus - cream colored with maroon markings 20. Zephyranthes drummondii 21. Z. lindleyana Thank you, Tom, Hamish, Robert, Richard, Cynthia, and Kelly !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Ann Marie So. California, San Gabriel Valley, Zone 21 (Sunset Western Garden book) , influenced by both marine and interior air(Santa Ana winds). This makes it perfect for Citrus trees and most So African plants. I collect and sometimes sell belladonnas, nerines, oxalis, moraea, amaryllis, palms, epiphyllums, succulents and other south african bulbs. email me at mysticgardn@yahoo.com for list of bulbs and plants for sale. For home and garden sculptures go to http://www.rjunkdrawer.com --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From mysticgardn@yahoo.com Mon Aug 25 10:59:08 2003 Message-Id: <20030825145901.53362.qmail@web40504.mail.yahoo.com> From: Ann Marie Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 07:59:01 -0700 (PDT) Sorry to the group but I've tried several times to send this to dell but it won't go thru, id like from this box 2. Albuca batteriana is a large (4 to 5 inch diameter bulb), essentially evergreen in California, although with a distinct summer dormancy. Spring flowering, with large off-white petals with a pronounced green stripe. From Hamish Sloan: SEED: 3. Zephyranthes "Libra" Pale yellow, upright flower, fairly free flowering. Ann Marie Rametta, address on file. Dell Sherk wrote: Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 39" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. From Tom Glavich: SEED: 1. Dracunculus vulgaris is a large aroid, spring growing, and fully dormant by mid July. The leaves are tropical, about 18 inches to 2 feet tall. The spathe is dark purple with some white blotching. It smells strongly of rotting meat for the first 12 hours after opening, less so later. 2. Albuca batteriana is a large (4 to 5 inch diameter bulb), essentially evergreen in California, although with a distinct summer dormancy. Spring flowering, with large off-white petals with a pronounced green stripe. From Hamish Sloan: SEED: 3. Zephyranthes "Libra" Pale yellow, upright flower, fairly free flowering. 4. Habranthus magnoi - white flowered trumpet shape, not reflexed petals. 5. Habranthus sp. ? From Robert Parker: 6. Fresh seed of Iris spuria 'Imperial Bronze', Elinor McCown hybrid. From Dell Sherk: 7. Seed of Galtonia candicans. Tall white summer blooming. Supposed to be fragrant, but I could not detect it. Needs full sun. May be hardy to USDA Zone 5. Sow spring. 8. Seed of Cyrtanthus mackenii var cooperi, bright yellow 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink From Richard Smith: 10. Seed of Bloomeria crocea 11. Seed of Brodiaea californica, pink From Cynthia Mueller: 12. Seed of Alophia drummondii (NOT Herbertia lahue). Purple flowers, pleated leaf. From arboretum at Stephen F. Austin Univ., Nogodoches, E. Texas. Grows in sandy soil near bases of pine trees in clearings. 13. Seed of Crinum americanum, leaves are a little rather upright, light green, tough enough to live out in what I would call a rather dry flower bed. From Kelly Irvin: (images of most can be viewed at Kelly's website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ SEED: 14. Allium cernuum 15. Alstroemeria pulchella 16. Habranthus andersonii 17. H. brachyandrus 18. H. robustus 19. H. tubispathus - cream colored with maroon markings 20. Zephyranthes drummondii 21. Z. lindleyana Thank you, Tom, Hamish, Robert, Richard, Cynthia, and Kelly !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software From cf018a3312@blueyonder.co.uk Mon Aug 25 11:42:09 2003 Message-Id: <000601c36b1d$954d4a80$7e89eb50@davidfen> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: Eucomis Hardiness Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:28:49 +0100 >>>>but does Eucomis move to its own depth? Jim, I can't say I've noticed, so probably not. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick NCCPG National Plant Heritage Collections of Crocosmia with Chasmanthe and Tulbaghia The African Garden 96 Wasdale Gardens Estover Plymouth Devon England PL6 8TW Websites www.theafricangarden.com www.crocosmiaheritage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Waddick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Eucomis Hardiness > Dear all; > Thasnks for the comments on hardiness. Pewrhaps there is hope > for those sacrificial bulbs now in the ground since spring and > looking good. I'll report in spring. > > I don't think they are planted 6 inches deep, but does > Eucomis move to its own depth? > > Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > E-fax 419-781-8594 > > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.510 / Virus Database: 307 - Release Date: 14/08/03 From jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Mon Aug 25 13:52:25 2003 Message-Id: <20030825175224.E533E20016@happyhouse.metalab.unc.edu> From: jennifer.hildebrand@att.net Subject: Attn: DELL! Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:52:24 +0000 Hi Dell, All of our emails to you are bouncing! The message I received said that your mailbox was full. Jennifer From jshields104@insightbb.com Mon Aug 25 16:52:20 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030825150746.00af5fc0@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris update Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 15:17:55 -0500 Hi all, We expect Lycoris like squamigera, chinensis, longituba, and sprengeri to be hardy here in central Indiana. They are, and many are in bloom now. Also coming up in flower are a few hybrids. For instance, [chinensis x haywardii] is in bloom in one spot. In another, the first scape of the Chinese variety 'Sky Over Sky' is up. The hybrid [sprengeri x chinensis] is starting to bloom, too. Lycoris caldwellii is up and about to open in one spot. L. caldwellii in several other places here are not showing any signs of blooming. All these bulbs came from China through the hard work of Jim Waddick. Not Lycoris, but hardy, is Gladiolus x-gandavensis. I thought we had lost them all over the past wet and cold winter, but they are up. We did lose a lot of them, so I think I will lift and divide the survivors this Fall. Gladiolus oppositiflorus salmoneus left out in a nursery bed over last winter are also blooming. The G. o. salmoneus planted everywhere else outdoors failed to survive the winter. Which goes to show, you have to try things in lots of different places in your garden! Best regards to all, Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Mon Aug 25 17:12:57 2003 Message-Id: <19e.1930bdbf.2c7bd5ca@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:12:42 EDT In a message dated 8/25/2003 1:10:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, batlette@cox.net writes: > Have you ever planted a bulb and had it disappear from > sight and thought you had lost it only to rediscover it 4-6 years later? > This also happens quite often with Trillium and Paris rhizomes. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, CT 06755-0142 www.therapyshapes.com USDA Zone 5 Giant Schnauzer Rescue From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Aug 25 17:32:45 2003 Message-Id: <6A29D1BE4E218A4788DFE0211F45B476B97513@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:33:06 -0500 We've had the following taxa 'sulk' for a year or more after importation into the states from the Republic of Georgia: Muscari szovitsianum Scilla rosenii Ornithogalum balansae These bulbs (less than a half dozen of each out of populations of several hundreds of thousands) represented specific wild populations, and due to timing of the trip and the inability of our hosts to be able to relocate the bulb populations during dormancy (livestock graze the foliage down to soil level)were carefully lifted and cleaned in the middle of their growth cycle. Not ideal by any stretch of the imagination; the collection was carefully supervised by the conservation officer from Georgia. Seedlings resulting from seed collections from other populations collected a year later (2001)have grown on rapidly and will soon surpass the original collections in size and vigor. All of this to suggest even bulbs that are reliable under the best of conditions can 'sulk' or lie dormant for one or more years if their natural growth cycle is interrupted. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org - From ernestwells@mindspring.com Mon Aug 25 19:58:17 2003 Message-Id: From: Tom Wells Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 16:58:08 -0700 Since Dell's e-mail are being bounced for everyone, how should one respond for BX 39? Have seen that several have decided to post through the group, is there an alternate address? Tom From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Mon Aug 25 20:04:58 2003 Message-Id: <3F4AA423.6010601@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:04:51 -0500 Tom: I called and left him a message on his answering machine earlier today. Hopefully, he will have the e-mail situation fixed soon. If it was me, I would post to the group to get my "queue" in at least this time. Tom Wells wrote: >Since Dell's e-mail are being bounced for everyone, how should one respond >for BX 39? Have seen that several have decided to post through the group, is >there an alternate address? > >Tom > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon Aug 25 20:24:04 2003 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 17:24:02 -0700 Here is a copy of a message I sent to Arisaema-L in June this year. A month ago I had a backhoe in to dig out a bamboo grove. To give the machine access, I dug out plants that were in the way, an easy job as I had redone that bed last year, and put them in pots. Now a few plants that were run over by the huge tracks have put up leaves, including an arisaema. This surprised me because I hadn't planted any arisaemas there. I've been puzzling over this as the leaves get bigger day by day, and I've pulled out my book of garden maps.Aha! That answered the question. In 1986 I planted Arisaema jacquemontii, from seed I bought from one of Chris Chadwell's collecting trips. The plant grew for a few years and flowered at least once, but I hadn't seen it in many years. I don't know whether it was desperation at being run over, or the open sky above now that overlying vegetation has been removed that has caused the re-emergence. This is the second species of Arisaema to lie dormant for me. The other was a tuber of A. ringens I bought about 30 years ago which didn't appear for several years, came up and flowered once, but hasn't been seen since. There is no room to run a backhoe over the area where it was, so it will just have to stay down there. -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From ernestwells@mindspring.com Mon Aug 25 22:20:38 2003 Message-Id: From: Tom Wells Subject: Amaryllis blooms Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:20:28 -0700 Sounds like a good ideas to me Kelly, Thanks Hi Dell, Could I please get: 2. Albuca batteriana 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink 12. Seed of Alophia drummondii (NOT Herbertia lahue). Purple flowers, pleated leaf. From arboretum at Stephen F. Austin Univ., Nogodoches, E. Texas. Grows in sandy soil near bases of pine trees in clearings. 13. Seed of Crinum americanum, leaves are a little rather upright, light green, tough enough to live out in what I would call a rather dry flower bed. 14. Allium cernuum 15. Alstroemeria pulchella 19. H. tubispathus - cream colored with maroon markings > From: Kelly Irvin > Organization: Bulbmeister.COM > Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:04:51 -0500 > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Re:Amaryllis blooms > > Tom: > > I called and left him a message on his answering machine earlier today. > Hopefully, he will have the e-mail situation fixed soon. If it was me, I > would post to the group to get my "queue" in at least this time. > > Tom Wells wrote: > >> Since Dell's e-mail are being bounced for everyone, how should one respond >> for BX 39? Have seen that several have decided to post through the group, is >> there an alternate address? >> >> Tom >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> >> >> > > -- > Mr. Kelly M. Irvin > The Bulbmeister > 4407 Town Vu Road > Bentonville, AR 72712 > 479-685-1339 > > USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b > > E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com > Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ > Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Aug 26 13:24:37 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030825193837.00b67178@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: TOW: Have you ever...? Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 19:44:02 -0700 Diane Whitehead reported the (re)emergence of an Arisaema after clearing bamboo grove with heavy equipment. I saw the same thing happen here with native Trillium ovatum and Anemone deltoidea after I had a road cleared into the woods so I could drive my truck in to get rocks for the rock garden. Some friends cleared a slope at their new home of a heavy cover of ivy and were pleased to have scores of trilliums come up the next year. Many plants, including geophytes in particular, seem to wait for open conditions to emerge. The opening can be caused by landscaping as in these cases, by logging (horrors! but you should see Lilium columbianum in a clear-cut), or by fire. People often ask me whether the bulbs I sell should be planted in shade, because they are described in the literature as growing in woodland or scrub. I grow almost all of them in full sun, but I admit that there is less sun here during their growing season than they might get elsewhere. I like to use the term "shade-tolerant" rather than "shade-loving" for most plants, though of course there are some that definitely can't stand full sun, except perhaps at high elevations. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From Run007CB@aol.com Mon Aug 25 22:50:02 2003 Message-Id: <161.24aa07b0.2c7c24ce@aol.com> From: Run007CB@aol.com Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:49:50 EDT Hi Dell, please send me 16,4,5, 8 and 9. Thanks, Charles Edelman Box 6708 LaFeria, Texas 78559 From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Tue Aug 26 01:11:41 2003 Message-Id: <002601c36b90$85db24a0$d3dbfc9e@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Fw: Pacific BX 39/Dell Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:11:16 -0700 Sorry to post it to the PBS lists, but I don't want to miss out. Message to Dell below. > Hi Dell: > > I would like: > > 1;2;3;4;5;9;12;13;17;19;20;21 > > Thank you! > > Diana rarebulbs@earthlink.net > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Aug 26 01:53:38 2003 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 22:53:35 -0700 Dell, Put me down for # 4, 11, 12. Thanks. --Lee Poulsen From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Tue Aug 26 02:12:37 2003 Message-Id: <20030826061236.88442.qmail@web11302.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: BX 39 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 2003 23:12:36 -0700 (PDT) Dell, Your emails are being sent back. Did you know this??? Anyway, sorry group. I would like the following: > From Dell Sherk: > 9. Seed of Rhodophiala andicola, pale pink > From Cynthia Mueller: > > 12. Seed of Alophia drummondii (NOT Herbertia > lahue). Purple flowers, > pleated leaf. From arboretum at Stephen F. Austin > Univ., Nogodoches, E. > Texas. Grows in sandy soil near bases of pine trees > in clearings. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 26 07:05:45 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Email problems Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:08:58 -0400 Dear All, Apparently, I am having problems getting messages. This is especially inconvenient when there is a BX offering out there. Some of you have told me that your messages to me have been returned because my "mail box is full". I don't see any signs of the problem at this end. I will contact my server today. In the meantime, if you have placed an order from BX 39, please send it again and I will reply to confirm receipt. best, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 26 07:10:36 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:13:49 -0400 In spite of my computer problems, I did receive your order for BX 39. Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Tue Aug 26 07:15:21 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Mistake posting Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:18:34 -0400 >In spite of my computer problems, I did receive your order for BX 39. Please disregard that meaningless message to the group. Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From pbrooks3@sc.rr.com Tue Aug 26 07:33:02 2003 Message-Id: <006001c36bc5$d1ec4ec0$6401a8c0@home> From: "Patricia Brooks" Subject: Email problems no B X 37 andx 38 Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:33:06 -0400 I did not get those when I sent for them and the messages did not bounce back. You have a real problem with your server. Since I could not get any of the those BX I figure why send for BX 39. Pat From vicm527@tampabay.rr.com Tue Aug 26 14:15:07 2003 Message-Id: <00b501c36bfd$f9b62e70$97175c18@VicLynn> From: "Vic" Subject: BX39 Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 14:15:05 -0400 Hi Dell, I guess I should follow everyone's lead and post this in case my e-mail does not get thru. May I please have #4,8,9,12 & 21 Thanks, Lynn Makela From hamish.sloan@virgin.net Tue Aug 26 16:37:05 2003 Message-Id: <01C36C19.FA8F8DC0.hamish.sloan@virgin.net> From: Hamish Sloan Subject: Pacific BX 39 Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 21:34:51 +0100 Hello Dell, As my second try does not seem to have got through, would like 8, 9, 13, 16, 17, 19, 20. Sorry for the bother, Group. Regards Hamish From dells@voicenet.com Wed Aug 27 10:15:37 2003 Message-Id: <200308271415.h7REFar04854@email1.voicenet.com> From: Subject: BX 39 CLOSED Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 10:15:36 -0400 (EDT) Dear All, Even with my computer problems, enough orders got to me to use up the whole supply. I have replied to most everyone who ordered and seem to be receiving mail ok now. But I am now having trouble sending mail except by a very roundablout strategy. Some people to whom I have not been able to reply are: Ingram, Parker, English, and Sloan. I did receive your orders. If you are in doubt, email me again. Sorry for the hassle. Packages should go out before the weekend. Enjoy, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific From lizwat@earthlink.net Wed Aug 27 11:59:16 2003 Message-Id: <3F4CD5D6.F95EB205@earthlink.net> From: Elizabeth Waterman Subject: BX 38 Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 09:01:26 -0700 Regarding Bx 38, I sent but did not receive an order, was there a problem, then, too? Liz Waterman From jshields104@insightbb.com Wed Aug 27 13:29:53 2003 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20030827120516.00af44b8@mail.insightbb.com> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming: tender bulbs Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 12:26:46 -0500 Hi all, Right now, we have lots of pots of Nerine rehmannii blooming and setting seed. I just saw a small butterfly, Everes comyntas, the Eastern Tailed Blue, visiting the flowers of one pot of N. rehmannii. N. rehmannii blooms well in a 5.5 inch square by 5.5 inches deep plastic pot in a sandy or gritty mix. I'm collecting and planting the seed as it ripens. I want tor try crowding these bulbs together more closely. There is one flower scape in one pot of N. masoniorum. We get very little bloom from this species here. The flowers are a bright pink, larger than N. rehmannii but smaller than most other Nerines. That includes Nerine filamentosa, which is starting to push up scapes in every pot of it we have. N. filamentosa is quite reliable at blooming in late summer. They are fairly crowded in 6-inch round plastic azalea pots, growing in gritty mix. They set a few seeds, which I have also been planting. Strumaria tenella orientalis is another white-flowered amaryllid, but it is even tinier than N. rehmannii. It also seems to bloom quite reliably every year at this time. Several grow and bloom together in a 5.5 inch square by 5.5 inches deep plastic pot in a sandy or gritty mix. It sets seed readily and blooms from seed in just a couple of years. It propagates better from seed than from offsets, so I always plant the seeds when they ripen. Nerine rehmannii, N. filamentosa, and Strumaria tenella are tender but very easy to grow. Put the pots out in full sun in late Spring (May in central Indiana) and water when they get dry. Feed occasionally with a dilute solution of a soluble fertilizer. Dry off and store before first frost in a dry, frost-free location over winter. They are deciduous and summer-growing. There are a few pictures in my web sites at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/amaryllids/nerine-b.html and at http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Bulbs/SpringFall2003.html#rehmannii I would hate to be without my small nerines in late summer. They come at a time every year when my love of gardening starts to wilt in the heat and bugs of late August. Regards, Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA Member of INTERNATIONAL CLIVIA CO-OP From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Thu Aug 28 00:22:11 2003 Message-Id: <20030828042210.91810.qmail@web11307.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: OT computer virus Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:22:10 -0700 (PDT) OK, I have downloaded the appropriate patch for the Sobig virus and yet they are still coming to my bulk mail email folder. I don't open them and they seem not to effect my computer but how can I stop them from coming? I get about 30 a day. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From samclan@redshift.com Thu Aug 28 00:26:18 2003 Message-Id: <3F4D8450.7000300@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: OT computer virus Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:25:52 -0700 You are lucky, John. I'm gettin about 60. As a result, my new email address is samclan@redshift.net. Please change it. shirley John Ingram wrote: > OK, I have downloaded the appropriate patch for the > Sobig virus and yet they are still coming to my bulk > mail email folder. I don't open them and they seem not > to effect my computer but how can I stop them from > coming? I get about 30 a day. > > > ===== > John Ingram in L.A., CA. > 310.709.1613 > jjingram@adelphia.net > Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com > www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > . > From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Thu Aug 28 08:30:30 2003 Message-Id: <6A29D1BE4E218A4788DFE0211F45B476D339FA@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: OT computer virus Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 07:30:50 -0500 I'm not getting any. Could be through the intervention of our ISP or through the work of our IT staff here at the Garden. I recommend you contact your ISP to see what they can do. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: Shirley Meneice [mailto:samclan@redshift.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 27, 2003 11:26 PM To: Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com; Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] OT computer virus You are lucky, John. I'm gettin about 60. As a result, my new email address is samclan@redshift.net. Please change it. shirley John Ingram wrote: > OK, I have downloaded the appropriate patch for the > Sobig virus and yet they are still coming to my bulk > mail email folder. I don't open them and they seem not > to effect my computer but how can I stop them from > coming? I get about 30 a day. > > > ===== > John Ingram in L.A., CA. > 310.709.1613 > jjingram@adelphia.net > Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com > www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > . > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 02:11:32 2003 Message-Id: <20030829061120.24597.qmail@web11308.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Rust on canna and daylilies Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 23:11:20 -0700 (PDT) Can someone point me in the right direction to view what rust looks like on these plants? I have a slight reddish coloration in the veins on Canna 'Phaison'/'Bengal Tiger' as well as drying tips of my daylilies and they have been well watered this year. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Fri Aug 29 02:14:45 2003 Message-Id: <20030829061444.70144.qmail@web11303.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Urginea bulbs at Roger's Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 23:14:44 -0700 (PDT) For all those in the general So Cal. area, Roger's Gardens in Costa Mesa has just unloaded their fall shipment of Urginea. Some are the size of small watermelons - 8" or more in diameter. All this for a nominal cost of $9.99. Yesterday they had tons. At a price like that, they will go fast. ===== John Ingram in L.A., CA. 310.709.1613 jjingram@adelphia.net Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com www.geocities.com/floralartistry2000 From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri Aug 29 19:43:23 2003 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Wiki uploads Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 16:43:13 -0700 I uploaded the following pics tothe wiki. At the bottom is an unknown Calochortus I need help identifying. Thanks. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 Zephyranthes primulina. Another really pretty Zephyranthes. The outside, before the flower opens, is a yellow fading into a pink-peach color. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-primulina.jpg Zephyranthes andersonii. These are from seed I got from Chilterns. I had heard that Z. andersonii was an older name for one of the common Zephyranthes, so I'm not sure what the real name for this is, but it sure is pretty. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii1.jpg http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii2.jpg (Cyrtanthus sanguineus X Cyrtanthus loddigesianus) X Cyrtanthus sanguineus . From IBS BX seed from Gerrit Oskam in 2001. These are the first flowers to appear. They're about 2 inches in diameter at the mouth. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang.jpg Although another bulb had a scape of the same cream color above, a third bulb had these salmon colored flowers. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang-red.jpg Cypella coelestis. Here is a shot of this which I received labelled Cypella plumbea platensis . Does anyone know how the subspecies differ? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cypella-plumbea-platensis.jpg Nerine filifolia. This is the first time it has bloomed for me. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Nerine-filifoliaLP.jpg Griffinia espiritensis hyb. & Griffinia liboniana hyb. grown in my (humid) unheated pseudo-greenhouse. The liboniana species has spotted leaves. They grow very well in a well-drained medium and flower in shady areas. They go dormant for me in the winter. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-2species.jpg Griffinia espiritensis hyb. Somewhat out of focus close-up of this species. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-espiritensis-hyb.jpg Griffinia liboniana hyb. Close-up of this species. A beautiful flower and color. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-liboniana-hyb1.jpg Griffiniopsis blumenavia. I grow this the same way I grow Griffinia: In a very well-draining medium in my humid, unheated pseudo-greenhouse. It seems to go dormant on me at odd times, not necessarily in the winter. (Sorry about the slight blurriness; I'll try to get a better picture.) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffiniopsis-blumenavium.jpg Mystery bulb: A Calochortus grown from seed, and the upper half of the label broke off and got lost. A very small flower, maybe a little over a centimeter across, and the plant is growing during our hot Southern California summer. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Calochortus-something.jpg From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Fri Aug 29 19:59:56 2003 Message-Id: <001701c36e89$a2f8b8d0$48d2fc9e@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Wiki uploads Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 16:59:50 -0700 Hi Lee: It isn't a Calochortus. Diana ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, August 29, 2003 4:43 PM Subject: [pbs] Wiki uploads > I uploaded the following pics tothe wiki. At the bottom is an unknown > Calochortus I need help identifying. Thanks. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 > > > > Zephyranthes primulina. Another really pretty Zephyranthes. The > outside, before the flower opens, is a yellow fading into a > pink-peach color. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-primulina.jpg > > Zephyranthes andersonii. These are from seed I got from Chilterns. I > had heard that Z. andersonii was an older name for one of the common > Zephyranthes, so I'm not sure what the real name for this is, but it > sure is pretty. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii1.jpg > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii2.jpg > > (Cyrtanthus sanguineus X Cyrtanthus loddigesianus) X Cyrtanthus > sanguineus . From IBS BX seed from Gerrit Oskam in 2001. These are > the first flowers to appear. They're about 2 inches in diameter at > the mouth. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang.jpg > Although another bulb had a scape of the same cream color above, a > third bulb had these salmon colored flowers. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang-red.jpg > > Cypella coelestis. Here is a shot of this which I received labelled > Cypella plumbea platensis . Does anyone know how the subspecies > differ? > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cypella-plumbea-platensis.jpg > > Nerine filifolia. This is the first time it has bloomed for me. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Nerine-filifoliaLP.jpg > > Griffinia espiritensis hyb. & Griffinia liboniana hyb. grown in my > (humid) unheated pseudo-greenhouse. The liboniana species has spotted > leaves. They grow very well in a well-drained medium and flower in > shady areas. They go dormant for me in the winter. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-2species.jpg > > Griffinia espiritensis hyb. Somewhat out of focus close-up of this species. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-espiritensis-hyb.jpg > > Griffinia liboniana hyb. Close-up of this species. A beautiful flower > and color. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-liboniana-hyb1.jpg > > Griffiniopsis blumenavia. I grow this the same way I grow Griffinia: > In a very well-draining medium in my humid, unheated > pseudo-greenhouse. It seems to go dormant on me at odd times, not > necessarily in the winter. (Sorry about the slight blurriness; I'll > try to get a better picture.) > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffiniopsis-blumenavium.jpg > > > > Mystery bulb: > A Calochortus grown from seed, and the upper half of the label broke > off and got lost. A very small flower, maybe a little over a > centimeter across, and the plant is growing during our hot Southern > California summer. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Calochortus-something.jpg > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Fri Aug 29 20:43:25 2003 Message-Id: <3F4FF329.1000506@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Wiki uploads Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:43:21 -0500 Lee: I believe your Z. andersonii is the same as Habranthus tubispathus (I don't know if a variety or form follows). I received seed under the same name through the IBS SX/BX a few years ago. Lee Poulsen wrote: > I uploaded the following pics tothe wiki. At the bottom is an unknown > Calochortus I need help identifying. Thanks. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 > > > > Zephyranthes primulina. Another really pretty Zephyranthes. The > outside, before the flower opens, is a yellow fading into a pink-peach > color. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-primulina.jpg > > Zephyranthes andersonii. These are from seed I got from Chilterns. I > had heard that Z. andersonii was an older name for one of the common > Zephyranthes, so I'm not sure what the real name for this is, but it > sure is pretty. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii1.jpg > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Zephyranthes-andersonii2.jpg > > (Cyrtanthus sanguineus X Cyrtanthus loddigesianus) X Cyrtanthus > sanguineus . From IBS BX seed from Gerrit Oskam in 2001. These are the > first flowers to appear. They're about 2 inches in diameter at the mouth. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang.jpg > Although another bulb had a scape of the same cream color above, a > third bulb had these salmon colored flowers. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cyrt-sangXloddXsang-red.jpg > > Cypella coelestis. Here is a shot of this which I received labelled > Cypella plumbea platensis . Does anyone know how the subspecies differ? > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Cypella-plumbea-platensis.jpg > > Nerine filifolia. This is the first time it has bloomed for me. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Nerine-filifoliaLP.jpg > > Griffinia espiritensis hyb. & Griffinia liboniana hyb. grown in my > (humid) unheated pseudo-greenhouse. The liboniana species has spotted > leaves. They grow very well in a well-drained medium and flower in > shady areas. They go dormant for me in the winter. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-2species.jpg > > Griffinia espiritensis hyb. Somewhat out of focus close-up of this > species. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-espiritensis-hyb.jpg > > Griffinia liboniana hyb. Close-up of this species. A beautiful flower > and color. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffinia-liboniana-hyb1.jpg > > Griffiniopsis blumenavia. I grow this the same way I grow Griffinia: > In a very well-draining medium in my humid, unheated > pseudo-greenhouse. It seems to go dormant on me at odd times, not > necessarily in the winter. (Sorry about the slight blurriness; I'll > try to get a better picture.) > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Griffiniopsis-blumenavium.jpg > > > > Mystery bulb: > A Calochortus grown from seed, and the upper half of the label broke > off and got lost. A very small flower, maybe a little over a > centimeter across, and the plant is growing during our hot Southern > California summer. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Calochortus-something.jpg > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 4407 Town Vu Road Bentonville, AR 72712 479-685-1339 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Aug 29 20:53:55 2003 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: wiki uploads Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 00:53:54 +0000 No, it isn't, it's a Cal...ydorea amabilis. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.yupimsn.com/ From paige@hillkeep.ca Fri Aug 29 22:05:09 2003 Message-Id: <014901c36e9b$21b06360$1400000a@paige> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Native-plants expertise for Patagonian Argentina? Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2003 19:04:57 -0700 Alberto Castillo and others de habla espanola : I am in touch with a group trying to grow native plants of Patagonian Argentina. "Estamos trabajando en una Estacion Experimental del INTa-Rio Gallegos, es un instituto de investigación agropecuaria que esta en convenio con la Universidad Nacional de la Patagonia Austral." If you can help, please get in touch with me and I will act as intermediary. This is not an opportunity for gardeners to request wild seeds. 8-)) Paige Woodward paige@hillkeep.ca www.hillkeep.ca From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sat Aug 30 19:30:10 2003 Message-Id: <001e01c36f4e$b0b94550$44d49851@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Cyrtanthus spiralis Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 00:30:25 +0100 hi all My Cyrtanthus spiralis has now decided to produce a flower spike. It is still continuing to produce bulbils. Mark N Ireland zone 8 From mark@marksgardenplants.com Sat Aug 30 19:33:59 2003 Message-Id: <002701c36f4f$3a464890$44d49851@markp5xpcz3p3u> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Narcissus 'Candlepar' and 'Navara' Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 00:34:15 +0100 hi all Does anyone grow Narcissus 'Candlepar' ('Candlepower'?) and N. 'Navarra'? Would you have any spare bulbs to swap? Mark N Ireland zone 8 From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat Aug 30 23:06:40 2003 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Corydalis solida - which end up? Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 20:06:38 -0700 I've grown Corydalis solida for years, but never planted the bare bulbs before. I was all set to plant a batch of Corydalis solida that I just received from Janis Ruksans. I was going to plant the sort-of-pointy end up. However, the other end of each bulb has a small yellowish-green bit emerging. It looks like they may be green if they are in the light. So should that flatter end be up? -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From nsterman@plantsoup.com Sat Aug 30 23:20:05 2003 Message-Id: From: Nan Sterman Subject: Corydalis solida - which end up? Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 20:20:02 -0700 When faced with such a dilemma, Diane, I plant the bulbs sideways 'cuz they always seem to be able to figure out which end is up... ; } Nan >I've grown Corydalis solida for years, but never planted the bare >bulbs before. I was all set to plant a batch of Corydalis solida >that I just received from Janis Ruksans. I was going to plant the >sort-of-pointy end up. However, the other end of each bulb has a >small yellowish-green bit emerging. It looks like they may be green >if they are in the light. So should that flatter end be up? -- +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= Nan Sterman Plant Soup (TM) PO Box 231034 Encinitas, CA 92023 760.634.2902 (voice) NSterman@PlantSoup.Com 760.634.2957 (fax) +=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+= From john@johnlonsdale.net Sun Aug 31 06:51:17 2003 Message-Id: <000101c36fad$c0060070$6501a8c0@DCM28D21> From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Corydalis solida - which end up? Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 06:50:53 -0400 Diana, The flat end goes up. Solida section Corydalis always initiate a growth point around this time of year and it will make a few millimeters growth then stop there until it really starts extending in early spring. Number of growth points = number of shoots = number of new bulbs if all goes well with next seasons growth - they renew annually. The pointy bit is where the roots come from, although it may not look like it! J. Dr John T Lonsdale, 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diane Whitehead Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2003 11:07 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Corydalis solida - which end up? I've grown Corydalis solida for years, but never planted the bare bulbs before. I was all set to plant a batch of Corydalis solida that I just received from Janis Ruksans. I was going to plant the sort-of-pointy end up. However, the other end of each bulb has a small yellowish-green bit emerging. It looks like they may be green if they are in the light. So should that flatter end be up? -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool Mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From Mark.Wilcox4@Verizon.net Sun Aug 31 14:14:49 2003 Message-Id: From: Mark Wilcox Subject: Corydalis solida - which end up? Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 14:14:46 -0400 To anyone reading John's post and saying "Oh, no!": This means I planted mine upside down a couple of years ago. They still emerged and bloomed just fine - in spite of me! Mark Wilcox On Sun, 31 Aug 2003 06:50:53 -0400, John Lonsdale wrote: >The flat end goes up. Solida section Corydalis always initiate a growth >point around this time of year and it will make a few millimeters growth >then stop there until it really starts extending in early spring. Number of >growth points = number of shoots = number of new bulbs if all goes well with >next seasons growth - they renew annually. The pointy bit is where the >roots come from, although it may not look like it! From dells@voicenet.com Sun Aug 31 15:52:36 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX news Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 15:54:51 -0400 Dear All, The orders for BX 39 have been packed up and will go into the mail Monday or Tuesday. As I hope you will see from my other post, BX 40 is on offer now - a wonderful offering, indeed. Our donors have been extremely generous this year, and I have a lot of plant material to offer. So stay tuned. I think that I have my computer difficulties ironed out, but if you don't hear from me in reply to your orders, by all means let me know. Email directly to me or send a post to the general forum or phone and leave a message at 215-862-0438. E-mail is wonderful, most of the time, but when it breaks down, misunderstanding can be the result. Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Sun Aug 31 15:52:40 2003 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 40 Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 15:54:51 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by PBS list members for sharing. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 40" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find included with them a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! BULBS/CORMS: From Richard Smith: 1. Gladiolus cardinalis, winter/spring growing; flowers May-June in CA; re, white splotches, summer dormant. 2. Gladiolus tristis, winter growing, blooms March in CA 3. Babiana stricta 'Blue Gem', winter growing 4. Allium cepa 'Brittany Red' shallots; excellent keeper, winter growing in CA, multiplies quickly, culinary use From Mark Mazer: 5. Lachenalia congesta 6. Lachenalia pustulata 7. Lachenalia pusilla 8. Lachenalia rosea 9. Lachenalia rubida 10. Lachenalia reflexa 11. Lachenalia unifolia var wrightii 12. Lachenalia pustulata, light blues 13. Lachenalia bachmanii 14. Lachenalia latifolia 15. Lachenalia zeyheri 16. Lachenalia fistulosa 17. Lachenalia carnosa 18. Lachenalia elegans 19. Lachenalia pustulata, darker blues 20. Lachenalia sp? 21. Lachenalia contaminata 22. Freesia laxa 23. Sparaxis grandiflora ssp grandiflora 24. Ixia maculata 25. Babiana nana 26. Romulea flava 27. Ixia pumilio From Kelly Irvin: 28. Ipheion uniflorum album 29. Ipheion uniflorum 'Rolfe Fiedler' 30. Ferraria crispa 31. Lycoris aurea var surgens 32. Lycoris radiata var radiata Thank you, Richard, Mark, and Kelly !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun Aug 31 23:21:42 2003 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20030831173102.00b5eb30@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Which end up? Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:44:20 -0700 Corydalis solida, the subject of recent discussion under "Which end up?" is not the only bulb that puzzles people. Here are some hints: Corydalis in general have a "knob" or "topknot" that goes on top. Those of the C. solida type are pointed on the bottom, but some others are not. Arum tubers also have a knob on top, which usually curls over like a dot of frosting on a cake. The little tubers show it well, but the big ones tend to have knobs all over and I don't think it's too important which way you orient them. Young fritillaria bulbs can be big on the bottom, or big on the top, depending on the species. For example, many of the American species are fatter at the top, with a point at the bottom, reflecting the shape of the scales of a mature bulb. Mature bulbs show an obvious basal plate on the bottom and a hole in the middle where the scape emerges from the top. There are some odd versions, too, such as the flat bulbs of F. pudica, which one customer told me reminded him of "a fancy cookie," and the stoloniferous bulbs of F. pontica. Erythroniums have a "dropper" at the bottom, which is usually fatter and whiter than the rest of the bulb; the roots tend to be about midway on the bulb. You would not think people could be confused about a Colchicum, but I've known them to be. The papery "neck" goes on top, and the pointed "foot" on the bottom; the roots tend to be higher than the "foot." For the dwarf species that have strange wormlike corms, you can usually see where the roots came out, or you can just plant them horizontally. The classic case of "plant it on its side" is Anemone. A. blanda and similar compact, knobby tubers seem to survive any orientation. A. nemorosa and similar ones with long thin rhizomes should be planted horizontally; sometimes you can see the old roots on the bottom, but I doubt it matters. Very tiny bulbs can be "sown" like seed if you have so many of one kind that it would take forever to place them upright. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon