Hi, members Not all lilies normally produce stem roots or bulblets, so don't be distressed if yours don't. L. lankongense and L. wardii. These lilies are sometimes grown in large containers because they are stoloniferous, and the containers keep them confined. >L. auratum -The reason being the >roots were often removed prior to packing, and in transit they lost much >moisture resulting in poor quality bulbs being sold. >Modern transport and packing methods plus being raised from seed in this >country enables top quality bulbs to be purchased. >This species has been much used in hybridising, and rightly so in my >opinion. It flowers in late summer. With the largest flowers in lilydom (except possibly some of the longiflorum hybrids now being developed), there is reason for this species to be greatly desired. Unfortunately, most of the early forms were rather virus susceptible, and many didn't last long in the garden. Newer selections are usually longer lasting, and some hybrids also last well in the garden. Unfortunately most oriental hybrids now being selected are intended for forcing, and only the upright flower habit seems to be acceptable. In the garden, the outfacing flowers of L. auratum are more attractive. The fragrance is potent and far reaching, unfortunately another character that is being selected against for forcing lilies. There is a true dwarf, to two feet or so (Tom Thumb), and there are also dwarf oriental hybrids, though they aren't commonly available. >L. hansonii-Only one form has been available for years, propagated vegetatively. It is self infertile, so seed is rarely offered. More L hansonii were introduced a few years ago. I am still looking for a different form to cross with the L. hansonii I have, which is the old, vegetatively propagated clone. L. hansonii has been hybridized with L. martagon and L. tsingtauense, but hybrids are slow growing and thus relatively expensive. The martagon group generally is slow to multiply and resents being moved, often not flowering for a year or two afterwards. In addition, flowers are generally smaller than some other lilies-which means that for the most part, people who can grow orientals and trumpets, usually do. People who live in cold climates where those types of lilies aren't hardy, grow martagon lilies. Look to nurseries in Canada for best selection. The high price you must pay will be in part ofset by the fact that a martagon or martagon hybrid may well outlive you, which isn't true of all lilies. >L tsingtauense an unusual lily. In addition to the odd flower color, this lily has attractive mottled foliage, at least when young. >L. lancifolium, the famed Tiger Lily. The form of L lancifolium usually available is a triploid, which doesn't set seed. Sometimes offered is a double form of the triploid, which people either love or hate. It should be noted that the triploid forms are usually regarded as heavily infected with virus of several kinds, and as such should be kept well away from most other lilies. The vector is usually regarded as aphids, so keep L. lancifolium as far away from other lilies as aphids will fly. There are diploid, hence fertile forms sometimes available, of both the orange type, and var. flaviflorum, lemon yellow. They are much less vigorous, and when I lost them, I didn't replace them. There are other forms listed, but I haven't seen them offered. The triploid form doesn't set seed, but it has been found that triploid lilies will cross with tetraploid lilies, to yield a few seeds. I've never heard of anyone trying this, but it might be possible to develop a fertile, tetraploid form of the tiger lily. It has also been found that virus infection may be eliminated by tissue culturing, but only some of the resulting lilies will be virus free, and all must be tested to find which ones are virus free. All this is somewhat expensive, and hard to justify for a lily which is so readily available. >L. nepalense As a plant of the himalaya mountains, this is usually regarded as being intolerant of being wet in winter, when it would normally be under snow cover. In consequence, it is usually reported to thrive best when grown in one of two ways: 1) grown in the ground, dug up when it dies down, and placed in a plastic bag of peat or perlite, with almost no moisture-as in a few drops of water. The plastic bag is carried over winter in the refrigerator (NOT the freezer). As it has a relatively short alpine season, it may be in the refrigerator for 6 or 7 months before replanting. 2) grown in a pot, which is taken into a frost free area (garage) and turned on its' side for the winter. L. nepalense is stoloniferous, and some people report it grows out of the bottom of the pot. It is sometimes suggested that the dirt be removed from the top of the pot, so just the tip of the bulb is exposed to light, causing the stem to grow upright. When the new stem starts growing, gradually fill in the pot to a normal level. This may or may not work. With its' exotic beauty, L. nepalense has been hybridized with a number of other lilies, by several people. Occasionally seed of "Mclaren hybrids" is offered, but most people report they show no sign of L. nepalense. Hybrids with orientals have been made, and are being made, but so far I don't know of any which are available. >L. regale The 'crown' of flowers at the top of the stems is an umbel. The pictures in catalogs almost always show flowers in a raceme-so either what is being offered is not L. regale, or the people making the catalog didn't bother to get an accurate picture. You decide. L regale is widely known for producing seed which resembles almost exactly the mother, in one case pollen was put on L. regale for five generations, and the seedlings still resembled L. regale. As a pollen parent, the first generation seedlings flower in the umbel, which is usually considered inferior to a raceme. The leaves are relatively narrow, and tend to "scorch" when forced, so isn't in demand for that. The stems invariably lean, especially when the head of flowers start to open, so don't place it where you will brush against it when walking by. Lily pollen is an obvious stain (lemon juice, or cold cream, is an effective pollen remover). The result is that L. regale is less used in making trumpet lilies than other species. With all its' faults, L. regale is the hardiest trumpet lily, stands virus well, will tolerate hot dry spots with no summer water. L regale Album is often offered, and lacks most or all of the maroon that stains the outside of the trumpets of the type. Throat of the trumpet is still yellow inside, and there may be tinges of green or maroon, but the flower is basically white. >L. speciosum One of the latest lilies, even in September here, there are many selections, an early one (punctatum), Album is white, and others from palest pink to deep rose. L speciosum, when crossed with L. auratum, was one of the founding parents of the oriental lily hybrids. L speciosum gloriosoides has been recently reintroduced from China, and is very different from the more common type. L. washingtonianum The form I have is L. w. purpurescens, opening white then aging pink, then rose, finally almost purple. The fragrance is heavenly, possibly the nicest lily of all in that respect. What Jane reports is typical of what is written about this lily, and is completely at odds with my experiences. I find it relatively easy in the garden, even when watered regularly all summer. The hard part is getting it in the first place. When I was growing up, it was an occasional plant on the floor of the Willamette Valley, Oregon, elevation about 4 Hundred feet, not 4 thousand feet. There was a plant in a fencerow within about three hundred feet of the front door of our home. It is now very rare or extinct in the valley because of grazing and cultivation. I could go on and on about this lily, but this post is far too long already. Ken