From Zonneveld@rulbim.leidenuniv.nl Mon May 2 11:06:38 2005 Message-Id: <42765E0B.12958.1B50B74@localhost> From: "zonneveld" Subject: Tulipa/Amana Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 17:06:19 +0200 I am busy measuring nuclear DNA in tulips. For comparison it would be nice to have a single fresh leaf of any of the japanese tulips, also called Amana: i.e. Amana edulis, graminifolia, erythrinoides, or latifolia. Also Tulipa schmidtii would be most welcome. Thanks in advance! Ben J.M.Zonneveld Institute of Biology,Leiden University, Clusius lab Wassenaarse weg 64, 2333 AL Leiden, The Netherlands Zonneveld@rulbim.Leidenuniv.NL Fax: +31-71-5274999. min temp -10C (15F) From piabinha@yahoo.com Mon May 2 12:40:07 2005 Message-Id: <20050502164007.38614.qmail@web51903.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Veltheimia bracteata vs. capensis Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 09:40:07 -0700 (PDT) hi everybody, you recall that i had asked how to tell the diff. between these 2 species as the plant i received as capensis looks nothing like the pics in the wiki or elsewhere. based on the emails i got back, i was inclined to believe i grow only bracteata. however, the plant i have received as capensis seems to have much more ruffled, wavier leaves, so i think i'll leave the tags as they are. what doesn't match is the fact that it is not deciduous, and leaves are green (not that dull capensis color), broad and not skinny. my bracteata looks exactly like this one: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Veltheimia/Veltheimia_bracteata_br.jpg the one i have labeled as capensis has a bit wavier leaves. tsuh yang --- Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > In the Color Encyclopedia of Cape Bulbs key: > Leaves glossy dark green, seldom all deciduous; bulb > tunics fleshy; bracts > 10-30 mm long, spring flowering = V. bracteata > > Leaves glaucous or grayish, deciduous; outer bulb > tunics papery; bracts > 10-15 mm long; autumn and winter flowering = V. > capensis > The Veltheimia bracteata I grow is so different from > V. capensis that they > are easy to tell apart. One has shiny green leaves > and the other one dull > silver gray leaves. I've not gotten blooms from V. > capensis and suspect __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From cathycraigea@hotmail.com Mon May 2 12:43:41 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Membership Renewal Notice Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 09:43:51 -0700 Dear PBS members, Our membership chair, Pat Colville, has sent me a list of people who have not as yet renewed their PBS membership for 2005. Pat has sent each of you an email notice and will send a paper renewal notice with pre-addressed envelope shortly. Please renew ASAP: the newsletter is due out soon and you must be a paid member (Member in Good Standing) to receive the 2005 newsletters, and to participate in the BX and Seed Exchange. Thanks to you all, and by the way, Dell is going to have a HUGE BX offering in the next few days of ALL BULBS! So please, if you intend to order, renew your membership right now before you forget so that Dell can honor your order. Thanks again!! Cathy Craig EA From cathycraigea@hotmail.com Mon May 2 14:36:56 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Membership Update: How to Renew Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 11:37:15 -0700 Hi all, I have been asked by several members for more specific information on renewals; please find it below. And thanks to all to emailed me!! Hello PBS member! This is a courtesy notice to remind you to renew your PBS dues. Your membership expried 12/31/2004. In order to participate in the BX and Seed Exchange, and to receive the 2005 newsletters, we must receive your renewal. Please renew now so you won't forget! Thanks!! You may send cash, check, money order in US funds, or pay securely through Pay Pal. ______ I have enclosed $20 for my 2005 PBS Membership, I live in the US ______ I have enclosed $25 for my 2005 PBS Membership, I live OUTSIDE the US Paper renewals to: Pat Colville - PBS 1555 Washburn Road Pasadena CA 91105 Pay Pay renewls to: Send Jennifer an email to: TheOtherJen8@yahoo.com Thanks, everyone! Cathy Craig, President PBS From theotherjen88@msn.com Mon May 2 15:11:55 2005 Message-Id: From: "JENNIFER HILDEBRAND" Subject: Membership & BX payments via PayPal Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 15:11:25 -0400 Hi all, A bit more info for those of you who would like to pay via PayPal... If you are already familiar with PayPal: You can send PayPal payments to theotherjen88@msn.com. Please be sure to use this address; the other email address that some of you may have for me is linked to my personal PayPal account. You are welcome to pay for membership or BX payments via PayPal. I do ask that you make it clear in the subject line what your payment is for. If you pay for more than one BX in a single PayPal transaction, please be sure to indicate which BXs you are paying for, and how much you owe for each BX. If you aren't familiar with PayPal: The above rules apply, but I'm happy to help if you need some instructions to set up a PayPal account. Send me an email and I'll send a copy of the instructions that I typed up a year or so ago, and if you run into any problems, I'll do what I can to walk you through it. Thanks to all the members who have already renewed, and to all who are about to! We appreciate your support. Sincerely, Jennifer Hildebrand PBS Treasurer From msittner@mcn.org Mon May 2 15:25:53 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050502122044.0313acf0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Membership & BX payments via PayPal Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 12:23:32 -0700 Dear All, I added the information about PayPal which Jennifer sent me some time ago to the membership application which is linked to the PBS website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/MembershipForm4-05.htm Or you can go directly to: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/UsingPayPal.htm Using this link should save Jennifer a lot of time having to email everyone who wants to know more. Mary Sue From dszeszko@gmail.com Mon May 2 15:38:37 2005 Message-Id: <9912b0b6050502123865837157@mail.gmail.com> From: Dennis Szeszko Subject: New Pictures and Descriptions posted of Mexican Amaryllids Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 14:38:37 -0500 Hi: I'm a new member here and I finally figured out how to post pictures to the Wiki. I've posted 4 pictures of Mexican Amaryllids. Three of the pictures are of rare Zephyranthes species (Z. verecunda (1x) and Z. nelsonii (2x)) from the central Mexican highlands. Here is the link: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zephyranthes I also posted another picture of an outstanding clone of Sprekelia formosissima on the Sprekelia page. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Sprekelia_formosissima.jpg Any and all feedback would be welcome. -Dennis From eagle85@flash.net Mon May 2 16:31:02 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Veltheimia bracteata vs. capensis Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 13:04:40 -0700 piabaDoug Westfall piabinha@yahoo.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > hi everybody, > > you recall that i had asked how to tell the diff. > between these 2 species as the plant i received as > capensis looks nothing like the pics in the wiki or > elsewhere. based on the emails i got back, i was > inclined to believe i grow only bracteata. however, > the plant i have received as capensis seems to have > much more ruffled, wavier leaves, so i think i'll > leave the tags as they are. what doesn't match is the > fact that it is not deciduous, and leaves are green > (not that dull capensis color), broad and not skinny. > > > my bracteata looks exactly like this one: > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Veltheimia/Veltheimia_bracteata_br > .jpg > > the one i have labeled as capensis has a bit wavier > leaves. > > tsuh yang That is bracteata! There is some variation among leaves. Check both the PBS wiki and the IBS web site. Doug From piabinha@yahoo.com Mon May 2 16:58:45 2005 Message-Id: <20050502205844.54841.qmail@web51905.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Veltheimia bracteata vs. capensis Date: Mon, 2 May 2005 13:58:44 -0700 (PDT) > > my bracteata looks exactly like this one: > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Veltheimia/Veltheimia_bracteata_br > > .jpg > > the one i have labeled as capensis has a bit > wavier > > leaves. > That is bracteata! > There is some variation among leaves. Check both the > PBS wiki and the IBS > web site. hi doug and all, sorry, i should have said, i do grow bracteata and that's the one i meant looks like the above pic. my other plant, received as capensis, has a bit wavier leaves, but still doesn't seem to look like the pics of capensis. my inclination is to believe they are both bracteata. thanks. tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Mon May 2 17:10:44 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20050503070644.036f0110@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: Veltheimia bracteata vs. capensis Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 07:09:54 +1000 >sorry, i should have said, i do grow bracteata and >that's the one i meant looks like the above pic. my >other plant, received as capensis, has a bit wavier >leaves, but still doesn't seem to look like the pics >of capensis. my inclination is to believe they are >both bracteata. Tsuh, I have two plants which to my knowledge are both bracteata and the leaves are so very different. One has leaves which are long and pointed with quite a bit of ruffling along the edges.... the other has much broader leaves which are short and a distinct rounded tip and little ruffling. If it was based on leaf type there is no question they'd be different species but I am fairly confident that they are both braceata by the look of it. There is quite a bit of difference in leaves as far as I know, although these 2 are the only ones I have actually seen in person. They also flower at slightly different times and despite being in pots side by side they shoot around 6 weeks apart in timing, sometimes more. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia. USDA equivalent - Zone 8/9 Growing.... Galanthus, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Trilliums, Cyclamen, Crocus, Cyrtanthus, Oxalis, Liliums, Hellebores, Aroids, Irises plus just about anything else that doesn't move!!!!! From dkramb@badbear.com Mon May 2 18:05:14 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050502180403.01d05c10@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: New Pictures and Descriptions posted of Mexican Amaryllids Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 18:05:03 -0400 Gorgeous pictures! It's always fun hunting flowers in their native habitat. Thanks for sharing your finds with us. Dennis in Cincinnati From eagle85@flash.net Tue May 3 00:30:35 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Veltheimia bracteata vs. capensis Date: Mon, 02 May 2005 21:30:48 -0700 piabaDoug Westfall piabinha@yahoo.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > sorry, i should have said, i do grow bracteata and > that's the one i meant looks like the above pic. my > other plant, received as capensis, has a bit wavier > leaves, but still doesn't seem to look like the pics > of capensis. my inclination is to believe they are > both bracteata. > > thanks. > > tsuh yang Send me a picture and I may be able to identify it. Doug From dells@voicenet.com Tue May 3 06:43:04 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 88 Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 06:43:10 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 88" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Alberto Castillo: SEED: 1. Gladiolus illyricus W 2. Eleutherine bulbosa ssp. citriodora S 3. Bloomeria crocea W 4. Moraea alticola S 5. Zephyranthes nelsonii S 6. Zephyranthes katherinae red S 7. Zephyranthes primulina S 8. Habranthus brachyandrus W 9. Cypella herberti ssp. brevicristata W From Diana Chapman: 10. Seed of Scoliopus bigelovii: Seeds should not be allowed to dry out, but also should not be kept wet. They can be sown now in a well-drained medium that is high in humus. Seeds should be covered with 1/2-1/4" potting medium or grit. Keep in a cool shaded place until Fall, then start watering in about October to November. Keep frost-free. Alternately, they can be stored in very slightly damp vermiculite until fall, then sown as directed. They usually germinate promptly as temperatures drop. From Dell Sherk: 11. Seed of Eucomis comosa hybrids, mixed. Thank you Alberto and Diana !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Tue May 3 17:22:18 2005 Message-Id: <20050503212218.737204C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX Closed Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 17:22:25 -0400 Dear All, Everything is claimed. Orders should be posted after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell From jyourch@nc.rr.com Wed May 4 10:09:59 2005 Message-Id: <53d65f53c137.53c13753d65f@southeast.rr.com> From: jyourch@nc.rr.com Subject: Hardy Rain Lilies Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 10:09:55 -0400 Hi All, We are well into spring here in central North Carolina and I have been pleasantly surprised by all the rain lilies left outdoors for hardiness testing last winter. Everything survived, including all of the seedlings I grew from direct sown PBS BX distributions last year. It was not a particularly cold winter here, but we did fall below 10F (-12C) a few nights. Biggest surprise for me was Z. rosea, which I thought to be too tender to survive our winters here. Below is the list of rain lilies which survived the 2004/2005 winter here in my garden in central North Carolina (Zone 7b). If there is interest I can do the same for the Crinum and Hymenocallis in my collection. Happy Gardening, Jay Zephyranthes 'Apricot Queen' Z. 'Aquarius' Z. atamasco Z. 'Big Dude' Z. candida Z. 'Capricorn' Z. citrina Z. 'Cookie Cutter Moon' Z. drummondii Z. 'El Cielo' Z. grandiflora Z. 'Grandjax' Z. insularum Z. 'Joann Trial' Z. labuffarosea Z. lindleyana Z. macrosiphon 'Hidalgo form' Z. morrisclintii Z. nymphea Z. 'Paul Niemi' Z. 'Peachy' Z. 'Prarie Sunset' Z. primulina Z. reginae Z. rosea Z. 'Ruth Page' Z. Sunset seed strain Z.'Tenexico Apricot' Z. traubii Z. verecunda Habranthus brachyandrus H. x floryi 'Green base' H. x floryi 'Purple base' H. gracilifolius H. martinezii H. robustus H. robustus 'Russell Manning' H. tubispathus rosea x Zephybranthes 'Norma Pearl' (Habranthus robustus x Z. labuffarosea) Rain lilies that will be tested in the garden this year: Z. 'Ajax' Z. 'Itsy Bitsy' Z. 'Redneck Romance' Z. simpsonii Z. 'Bangkok Yellow' From floralartistry2000@yahoo.com Wed May 4 10:28:36 2005 Message-Id: <20050504142835.37793.qmail@web50106.mail.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: What's blooming in my garden Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:28:34 -0700 (PDT) I am lucky to have a few little treasures in bloom right now. I have Pelargonium radulifolia in bloom at the moment. I brought it home from the garden last night. As any good gardener, I stuck it up to my nose, just to see what I could smell. WELLLLL! It is so sweetly fragrant. My friend and I were trying to figure out the smell. Does anyone else have this plant blooming and know what it smells like? I know there is another plant that smells like it but I can't put my finger on it. I want to say it's a Daphne or Viburnum but I'm not quite sure. There is no fragrance this morning so it must be a nocturnal scenter. I also have 2 year old seedlings of Ornithagalum dubium, yellow form blooming. Only two bulbs put out blooms and one got munched by snails so now it is down to one but that little trooper not only is in bloom, it has 2 spikes coming out of the bulbs. At 2 years old. Is this normal? I want to say that I sowed the seed in the summer of '03. It is done blooming now but Leucocoryne (I think from Mary sue) bloomed a few weeks ago. I love the colors on these plants. Really nice. I will hope that the seeds that are starting will provide me a lot of little babies. I have Gladiolus angustus in bloom right now. I've been too busy but I want to get out there and pollinate it. I did get some photos so I can post them on the wiki soon. If I can figure it out. There is a spike forming on my TX Crinum herbertii x self from Joe. Nice long silver leaves are a plus to this little treasure. The flowers look really dark too. I noticed that the stamen is poked out the top of the bud and it doesn't look like it will open for a few more days. I also have seen some nice growth on my Aristea major pink form since I have transplanted them into larger pots and have kept them much more watered. I hope to get them going. The same it true for the one remaining blue form that I have. I did get a photo of the one in the ground at my landlady's place. It is nearly 3' tall and my pot grown seedling is only 8" tall. I guess watering is everything. I have had a lot of blooms on a lot of my Sinningias. S. douglasii red form has come and gone, the macropodas are done, and the leucotricha x irarae is done. But I still have blooms on an open pollination cardinalis (a great combo of peach and burgundy) and blooms coming on all my sellovii, irarae, macrostaycha, sellovii x tubiflora, and so many more. The S. tubiflora are just starting to emerge. I really need to fertilize them. I have hopes of getting some nice cuttings to root of my aggregata yellow. Well, now that this email has taken me two mornings to complete, I have gone back and sniffed Pelargonium a few hundred more times. I am pretty sure it is Daphne fragrance. Any thoughts? Anyone growing Daphne? OT: I have some nice variegated Rhodeas that are flowering, anyone know how to pollinate them? Tony? Does anyone know if there is a Rhodea group out there in the US? I've got a couple that are really nice but I want to get a few more. Oh, and they are hardy on MI so I think they should do Ok in OH at my uncle's house. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com check it out Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From msittner@mcn.org Wed May 4 10:53:24 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050504073313.02b690d0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Gladiolus huttonii hybrids? Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 07:52:55 -0700 Dear All, A number of years ago I received some plants from Jim Robinett he had labeled Gladiolus huttonii. I shared some with the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens and subsequently grew some more from seed Bob Werra gave me. I thought they were delightful plants which is why I grew more of them, but they just didn't match the description in my books of that species and I wondered if there was that much variation of the plants in the wild. This year several pots of mine were in bloom in February and March for a long time and I was quite enchanted with all the variations in the flowers and interested that the ones that were almost all yellow bloomed first. I am wondering if these are not really Gladiolus huttonii, but hybrids instead. I wrote Alan Horstmann who was going to check with John Manning for me. Alan thought they were probably hybrids with Gladiolus tristis in the parentage and had a distant memory that someone else in South Africa had grown plants like this from Kirstenbosch seed. My friend Jana has some that look like these pictures and hers were grown from Kirstenbosch seed. Alan has not heard back from John and is now away I believe. I'd appreciate an opinion from other South African members on this forum about this. Is there this kind of variation in the wild? I'm afraid I got a little carried away when I added them to the wiki as I couldn't decide which of the different forms to include. Sorry about that. That happened with me and my Moraea (Homeria) hybrids too. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GladiolusHybrids The picture below Bob took of Alan's Gladiolus huttonii when we visited in South Africa a couple of years ago. Alan suspected that is the only picture we have on the wiki that is not a hybrid. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Gladiolus/Gladiolus_huttonii_AH.jpg As my garden continues to be full of blooms of South African bulbs and I have a lot of pollinators visiting my flowers I realize that probably a great deal of the seed I have given to the BX and exchanges could represent hybrids. With as much as I grow I just don't have time to hand pollinate. For many gardeners it probably doesn't matter as they are just interested in having pretty flowers. For those wanting pure species it could be a problem. Mary Sue From osmani_baullosa@yahoo.com Wed May 4 12:06:48 2005 Message-Id: <20050504160647.49328.qmail@web30501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Osmani Baullosa Subject: What's blooming in my garden Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 09:06:47 -0700 (PDT) A friend of mine grows Daphne and the flowers smell really nice. Hope your Pelargonium, John, be not so poisonous as Daphne odorata ;-) Thanks for telling us about your plants in bloom... Cheers, Osmani Floral Architecture wrote: I am lucky to have a few little treasures in bloom right now. I have Pelargonium radulifolia in bloom at the moment. I brought it home from the garden last night. As any good gardener, I stuck it up to my nose, just to see what I could smell. WELLLLL! It is so sweetly fragrant. My friend and I were trying to figure out the smell. Does anyone else have this plant blooming and know what it smells like? I know there is another plant that smells like it but I can't put my finger on it. I want to say it's a Daphne or Viburnum but I'm not quite sure. There is no fragrance this morning so it must be a nocturnal scenter. I also have 2 year old seedlings of Ornithagalum dubium, yellow form blooming. Only two bulbs put out blooms and one got munched by snails so now it is down to one but that little trooper not only is in bloom, it has 2 spikes coming out of the bulbs. At 2 years old. Is this normal? I want to say that I sowed the seed in the summer of '03. It is done blooming now but Leucocoryne (I think from Mary sue) bloomed a few weeks ago. I love the colors on these plants. Really nice. I will hope that the seeds that are starting will provide me a lot of little babies. I have Gladiolus angustus in bloom right now. I've been too busy but I want to get out there and pollinate it. I did get some photos so I can post them on the wiki soon. If I can figure it out. There is a spike forming on my TX Crinum herbertii x self from Joe. Nice long silver leaves are a plus to this little treasure. The flowers look really dark too. I noticed that the stamen is poked out the top of the bud and it doesn't look like it will open for a few more days. I also have seen some nice growth on my Aristea major pink form since I have transplanted them into larger pots and have kept them much more watered. I hope to get them going. The same it true for the one remaining blue form that I have. I did get a photo of the one in the ground at my landlady's place. It is nearly 3' tall and my pot grown seedling is only 8" tall. I guess watering is everything. I have had a lot of blooms on a lot of my Sinningias. S. douglasii red form has come and gone, the macropodas are done, and the leucotricha x irarae is done. But I still have blooms on an open pollination cardinalis (a great combo of peach and burgundy) and blooms coming on all my sellovii, irarae, macrostaycha, sellovii x tubiflora, and so many more. The S. tubiflora are just starting to emerge. I really need to fertilize them. I have hopes of getting some nice cuttings to root of my aggregata yellow. Well, now that this email has taken me two mornings to complete, I have gone back and sniffed Pelargonium a few hundred more times. I am pretty sure it is Daphne fragrance. Any thoughts? Anyone growing Daphne? OT: I have some nice variegated Rhodeas that are flowering, anyone know how to pollinate them? Tony? Does anyone know if there is a Rhodea group out there in the US? I've got a couple that are really nice but I want to get a few more. Oh, and they are hardy on MI so I think they should do Ok in OH at my uncle's house. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com check it out Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Wed May 4 12:58:41 2005 Message-Id: <1e.44b95515.2faa593c@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: What's blooming in my garden Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 12:58:36 EDT In a message dated 5/4/2005 12:35:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time, floralartistry2000@yahoo.com writes: smells like it but I can't put my finger on it. I want to say it's a Daphne or Viburnum Perhaps you may be recalling Viburnum carlesii, currently in bloom here, cloyingly sweet and will perfume our entire lower garden for about 10 days. It has an iron constitution and is hardy at least to at least USDA Zone 4B. Requires protection from the local deer as they love the flower buds. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, Connecticut 06755-0142 USA From msittner@mcn.org Wed May 4 14:29:47 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050504112246.02a25ce0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's blooming in my garden Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 11:30:02 -0700 >OT: I have some nice variegated Rhodeas that are flowering, anyone know >how to pollinate them? Tony? Does anyone know if there is a Rhodea group >out there in the US? I've got a couple that are really nice but I want to >get a few more. Oh, and they are hardy on MI so I think they should do Ok >in OH at my uncle's house. > Dear John, O.K. I'll bite. What is a Rhodea? Can you tell us about your plants and maybe supply a picture. I can't find this in any of my books. There is a Rohdea in the Convallariaceae family in IPNI and Tony Avent is listing some Rohdea japonica with variegated leaves and you are asking a Tony about hardiness so maybe that is what you mean? These don't look like Southern California plants. How are you growing them? Mary Sue From jimmckenney@starpower.net Wed May 4 14:57:12 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$un3gc@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: What's blooming in my garden Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 14:57:09 -0400 John and Mary Sue and others, Rohdea are increasingly familiar garden plants here in the Washington, D.C. area. They are easy (I didn't say quick) from their large seeds. The flowers are not too attractive, but the infructescence is eye-catching. It might remind some of that of Arum italicum: big red round marble sized fruits in a cylinder about four or five inches long. They seem to be reliably hardy garden plants here, although they are relatively recent additions to our gardens - and it's been years since we've had a bad winter. My plants are all home-grown from seed. I don't have the expensive variegated and crested (and maybe virus infected?) forms, just plain green. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@atarpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I'm now wondering if the eponym of Rohdea was related to early twentieth century garden writer Eleanour Sinclair Rohde? From pollards@adelphia.net Wed May 4 18:36:35 2005 Message-Id: <13370197.1115246194504.JavaMail.root@web3.mail.adelphia.net> From: Subject: ATTN: Joyce Miller (Hesperocallis) Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 18:36:34 -0400 Dear Joyce, While cleaning out my e-mail folders, I discovered that a message that I thought I sent to you was actually sent to myself! I don't have your e-mail address handy, so I am forwarding it. It was a pleasure meeting you and I hope your trip was botanically fruitful. :-) Shawn Pollard > Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2005 22:26:47 -0500 > From: > To: pollards@adelphia.net > Subject: Re: Hesperocallis undulata > > Joyce, > > I must regretfully report that none of the Hesperocallis populations I showed you have set seed. In many cases the plants were obviously grazed; the El Nino season of bounty is drawing to a close and nothing in the desert is wasted! From msittner@mcn.org Wed May 4 19:54:35 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050504164623.0220ed10@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Membership not required Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 16:54:49 -0700 Dear All, I have gotten a few messages from people who are questioning whether they can remain on this list because they are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society and do not wish to join. Participation in this list does not require you to be a member of the Pacific Bulb Society. List membership is open to everyone at no charge. If you want to receive Cathy's newsletters, a copy of the annual membership list, and to ask for seed or bulbs from the BX you will need to join the Pacific Bulb Society. All memberships expire in December unless you have joined in the last quarter of the year. If you just wish to receive our email conversations and participate in the wiki, all you have to do is subscribe. You do not have to send money. I think we all benefit from having a forum open to anyone who is interested in our subject. Mary Sue PBS List Administrator From leo1010@attglobal.net Thu May 5 00:07:32 2005 Message-Id: <42798D00.8090104@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Wed, 04 May 2005 21:03:28 -0600 Hello All, I have sprouted various Cyrtanthus species seed many times in different seasons with the water-float method but have never had them survive more than a week or so after planting into pots. I wait until there is a definite root and the first leaf is well visible and green. I have tried potting into an organic-rich mixture with the soil level at the root-bulb junction and the bulb-leaf junction. I have also tried potting into a half-inch layer of sand on top of an organic-rich mixture at both planting depths. I prepared the pots, made a slit in the potting medium with a knife or label, and then eased the seedlings into the slits. I then sprayed water to wash the soil back around the seedlings. I then kept the seedling pots in bright shade and didn't let them dry out. The seedlings always withered and died quickly. Any suggestions of what else to try? Thank you, Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From roberth6@mac.com Thu May 5 02:54:00 2005 Message-Id: <6A359A0C-BD32-11D9-9414-000A95EC1BAA@mac.com> From: Robert Hamilton Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 16:53:41 +1000 Hi Leo, I sow them onto the surface of my seed raising medium , then cover with coarse sand and keep them moist in my shadhouse and get almost 100% germination from fresh seed within a few weeks. Cheers, Rob Dr R F Hamilton 7 Beach Road Snug 7054 Tasmania Zone 9 equivalent From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Thu May 5 08:43:38 2005 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: The Great White North Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 09:46:07 -0300 Hello All: Just a quick note for those that follow Trillium emergence as spring advances to the north. Trillium, maybe erectum, has just pushed through the ground, here in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada. The Mayapples (Podophyllum peltatum) and Blood Root (Sanguinaria canadensis) are showing as well as the Yellow Lady's Slipper - Cypripedium (calceolus?). Rand in The Great White North From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu May 5 09:00:41 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$ta7co@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: The Great White North Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 08:59:37 -0400 Greetings from the sunny and warmer south, Rand. It's now main season for Trillium here in Maryland, USA. Podophyllum peltatum is in bloom, Sanguinaria long gone, and the yellow lady's slipper, Cypripedium parviflorum, is just starting to bloom. Toads are spawning for the second time. Most of the summer birds are back: a catbird greeted me in the garden this morning, and the trees are full of warblers; and hummingbirds, orioles, tanagers, vireos and all the rest are being reported from the area. I think I heard a cuckoo yesterday. And I've got my eyes peeled for an Ivory Billed Woodpecker. : ) Iris 'Dardanus' has six budded scapes this year - and the first flower should open this week. Iris cristata is blooming now. Frits are about over for this year. Let us know when things start to pop up there in New Brunswick. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where we are enjoying a very cool but very lovely spring. From jshields@indy.net Thu May 5 09:00:56 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050505075404.01e8b6c8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 08:00:55 -0500 Hi Leo and Rob, Oh, if we just lived in Tasmania, or even New Zealand! I use a combination of these two methods. I float Cyrtanthus seeds on water until they just barely start to sprout a root. Then I stick the sprouting seeds, root-down, into a layer of sand about 1/2 inch deep on the surface to the potting mix in my growing container. I get at least some survival this way. They do require pampering -- cover the container loosely with a sheet of plastic or a too-large plastic bag. I set the container in a saucer and keep some water in the saucer until there is good leaf growth. Then start to uncover very gradually, and let it dry a bit in between waterings. Like Leo, I used to try straight floatation, and also got 100% mortality. With the sand, I get some survival. Planting straight into potting mix has never given me any germination in Cyrtanthus. In summer, it is far too hot outdoors most of the time for these young seedlings to get started. Indoor in winter, under lights, it is too dry. Regards, Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 04:53 PM 5/5/2005 +1000, you wrote: >Hi Leo, > >I sow them onto the surface of my seed raising medium , then cover >with coarse sand and keep them moist in my shadhouse and get >almost 100% germination from fresh seed within a few weeks. > >Cheers, > >Rob > >Dr R F Hamilton >7 Beach Road >Snug 7054 >Tasmania >Zone 9 equivalent > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From msittner@mcn.org Thu May 5 12:01:18 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050505083703.051b42b0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 08:59:06 -0700 Hi Leo, We've talked about this issue before. In this post: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2004-April/017797.html I tell about my lack of success with flotation and better results with direct seeding and give a reference to a complete explanation by Lee Poulsen of how he handles the transplanting with flotation. This fall I got Cyrtanthus seed from Rhoda and Cameron. I sowed seed on top of moist mix with sand sprinkled on top with the seed planted sideways and slightly out of the soil. I covered the pot with plastic and left if in our spare bathroom. Cameron wrote that the seed was old, but he thought it would still be viable. He gave me an extra generous amount. Two pots had nice strong green shoots in about 3 weeks, another took about a month, and the fourth pot did not germinate at all. The ones that germinated are all doing just fine. I was able to share the excess seed with another Cyrtanthus enthusiast and started another batch of the species that germinated less well since I wanted more of it and I have a few more seedlings from the second attempt. This time it was only three weeks before I could see little green bulbs had formed. Our house is relatively cool by most standards in winter and the light levels in that room depend on how much sun we have. We have the heater on for two or three hours in the morning and in the evening if it is cool. We turn it off at night. Probably the temperature in that room is about 65 degrees and often into the 50 ties at night. I did not use lights. I hope this helps. Mary Sue From haweha@hotmail.com Thu May 5 18:24:08 2005 Message-Id: From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 22:24:07 +0000 I faced a similar problem when I tried to raise the common Cyrtanthus, the former Vallota purpurea from seeds, although I never used the floating method, but sowed into coarse sand covered with a thin layer of fine sand. The whole first leaf suddenly withered when it hat jiust reached 1-3 cm in length - but note, no leaf base rot / damping off was visible. I can not offer a clear explanation. BUT From my other sowing experiments, perforned on a large scale with 4ploid hippeastrums I noticed something what I speculate to be a mild form of this disorder. Some of these seedlings suddenly develop a strong depigmentation of the leaf edges and sometimes the whole leaf becomes whitish. But very few seedlings are so seriously weakened that they die. When the selected strongest seedlings, repotted into coco peat begin to exhibit very rapid growth these signs of disorder reappear in a very mild form, although clearly visible to me. To make it short now, I speculate that all the seedlings contain a virus which is normally latent. As I read that virus is normally not transmitted from seeds I must consider an infection in a very early stage of the development. This would explain the sudden manifestation of symptoms. I have tried the flotation method, too and found it very tedious/cumbersome. I prefer to sow my 100s of amarylli(d)'s seeds directly into coco peat now, putting them with blunted tweezers into preformed drill lines with a ruler, obtaining a germination rate of better than 80%. Careful attention must be paid not to let the sciarid flies (fungus gnats) get access. If seedlings die they should be carefully inspected in order to differentiate between fungus gnats (the leaves are eaten up under the soil surface, or a hole has been eaten into the basal plate of the tiny bulb - and the bulb scale mite, Steneotarsonemus laticeps ( the leaf is deformed and one or both edges are red and this discoloration begins in the bulb). This mite is very easily transmitted, so easily that it seems as if it could "fly over a certain distance". However, as regards to Cyrtanthus, now I would try to sow out directly into a solid substrate. If you have a lot of seeds from a common cultivar, sow on the largest scale you can afford. You WILL finally obtain some surviving seedlings, might they contain a virus or not. I consider that far far more plants are latent-ly infested with virus than we know; I am pessimistic in this aspect. But even If I had to consider that my whole collection might be infested I shall never get discouraged by that. (But however, needless to say that I discard hippeastrums with clear signs of ugly mosaic virus as quick as possible, in their whole pot) Hans-Werner From merrill@gamblegarden.org Thu May 5 19:05:22 2005 Message-Id: <20050505230522.530AB3C10D@cmlapp25.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: The Great White North Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 16:05:20 -0700 Thanks for the northern report. All of our bearded Iris has just past their prime this week and the PC hybrids are almost finished. A nice planting of Freesia laxa has me wanting more of the selections of this. The Allium 'Gladiator' and Nectaroscordum siculum will be in full bloom this weekend. A Gladiolus cardinalis also opened this week to rave reviews, although it had been planted in the middle of a purple and yellow planting of lavender and euphorbia. The colors, shall we say, clash.... We also have a very confused Schizostylis coccinea that thinks it should be blooming now... Merrill in Palo Alto where it rained another .6" last night. It feels like I never left Oregon... -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Rand Nicholson Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 5:46 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] The Great White North Hello All: Just a quick note for those that follow Trillium emergence as spring advances to the north. Trillium, maybe erectum, has just pushed through the ground, here in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada. The Mayapples (Podophyllum peltatum) and Blood Root (Sanguinaria canadensis) are showing as well as the Yellow Lady's Slipper - Cypripedium (calceolus?). Rand in The Great White North _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Thu May 5 19:12:09 2005 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: Veltheimia Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 20:17:20 -0300 Hello All; What is a good size pot for a Veltheimia if you are hoping for more from the same bulb, and, should you repot it while it is sending up a bloom stalk? Rand From Theladygardens@aol.com Thu May 5 20:51:36 2005 Message-Id: <89.26625d55.2fac1990@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: just south of Palo Alto in Los Gatos Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 20:51:28 EDT My bearded iris garden is in peak bloom this weekend, most of the Pacific Coast hybrids are finished. The Spuria and Louisiana iris are opening, the evansia are still in bloom. I have well over 1000 different named iris in my garden. The ixia and ornithogalum arabicans are blooming, watsonia are opening, lots of roses and other stuff blooming, fruit trees are blooming and setting fruit everywhere, birds are nesting all over the place. The Royal Palm show turkey is strutting, chickens are crowing or laying. It's beautiful to me right now! Just magical. My garden is still open for public viewing Fri, thru Monday from 10 am to 4 PM the next 3 weekends. It's free, we do this every year and every year say we won't do it again. But then we forget how much work it is and get humbled by the notes and cards we receive, particularly from those who get their mothers out of rest homes to bring them here and we are told this is the only place they want to come to. Carolyn in Los Gatos From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Thu May 5 21:54:42 2005 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: just south of Palo Alto in Los Gatos Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 22:59:53 -0300 Dear Carolyn: And for that, you should be remembered by everyone who has ever tried to give back to their parents what they have passed on to them. I am middle aged, and your gardens sound like a fine and wonderful place to visit at any time. I am not talking about your plants. May whatever you lack in coin be made up by something with much more of a shine. Rand in The Great White North At 8:51 PM -0400 5/5/05, Theladygardens@aol.com wrote: > every year say we >won't do it again. But then we forget how much work it is and get humbled by >the notes and cards we receive, particularly from those who get their mothers >out of rest homes to bring them here and we are told this is the only place >they want to come to. >Carolyn in Los Gatos From eagle85@flash.net Thu May 5 22:07:20 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Veltheimia Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 19:07:46 -0700 Rand NicholsonDoug Westfall writserv@nbnet.nb.ca1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > What is a good size pot for a Veltheimia if you are hoping for more > from the same bulb, ^^^^^^^^^^^^ a 10 - 12 inch pot should work and "encourage" offsets. It should hold the bulb for several years before needing to be repotted. > and, should you repot it while it is sending up a > bloom stalk? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I've done it on an "emergency." But I highly recommend against it! > Doug From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Thu May 5 22:59:27 2005 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: Veltheimia Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 00:04:15 -0300 Noted. Thanks. Rand >Rand NicholsonDoug Westfall writserv@nbnet.nb.ca1111 Claiborne Dr. Long >Beach, CA > >> What is a good size pot for a Veltheimia if you are hoping for more >> from the same bulb, >^^^^^^^^^^^^ >a 10 - 12 inch pot should work and "encourage" offsets. It should hold the >bulb for several years before needing to be repotted. > >> and, should you repot it while it is sending up a >> bloom stalk? >^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >I've done it on an "emergency." But I highly recommend against it! >> >Doug > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Fri May 6 03:47:04 2005 Message-Id: <001101c5520f$cd1a7f20$aedc8156@2CVEVE1> From: "Brian Whyer" Subject: Veltheimia Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 08:47:06 +0100 > > What is a good size pot for a Veltheimia if you are hoping for more > > from the same bulb, > ^^^^^^^^^^^^ > a 10 - 12 inch pot should work and "encourage" offsets. It should hold the > bulb for several years before needing to be repotted. On the other hand I flower small bulbs, less than 2" diameter, in 4" pots, and have a double bulb, maybe 5" wide with 2 flower stalks in a 7" pot. So large pots are a space luxury, not a necessity for flower stems. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 From eagle85@flash.net Fri May 6 13:26:23 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Veltheimia Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 10:19:22 -0700 Brian WhyerDoug Westfall brian.whyer@btinternet.com1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > On the other hand I flower small bulbs, less than 2" diameter, in 4" > pots, and have a double bulb, maybe 5" wide with 2 flower stalks in a 7" > pot. So large pots are a space luxury, not a necessity for flower stems. ^^^^^^^^^^ DO YOUR OWN THING!!! From eagle85@flash.net Fri May 6 18:09:25 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Hippeastrum Question Date: Fri, 06 May 2005 15:09:39 -0700 Is anyone aware of a Hippeastrum aulicum robustum? Doug Westfall From ang.por@aliceposta.it Sat May 7 14:40:13 2005 Message-Id: <001f01c552c8$8e11df80$4f5f3752@t7t2y7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Hippeastrum Question Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 07:49:36 +0200 Doug, I can't answer properly to your question, but I have found two clones of Hippeastrum aulicum here. The one in my photo is the 'robust' one with flowers of 20cm (almost 8") across of a vivid red orange. The 'weak' one has flowers of 12cm (barely 4") of a paler colour with more green. It's not a matter of cultivation, because the 'weak' one grows well, but it is just smaller. Probably there's a bit of variability in this species. Angelo Porcelli Italy From darrensage100@hotmail.com Sat May 7 16:39:19 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: New member. Bulb biotechnologist. Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 20:39:17 +0000 Dear all I am a bulb biotechnologist from the UK, with a PhD in bulb biotechnology (tissue culture and molecular biology). I recently moved to La Paz, BCS, Mexico and will set up a tissue culture unit and exotic plant nursery here. I want to include bulbs in my work. Here are the climatic figures for the region: http://uk.weather.com/weather/climatology/MXBS0006 What bulbs do you think will do well here. I see lilies growing in a neighbours garden and naturalised Hippeastrum. Kind regards Darren From eagle85@flash.net Sat May 7 19:19:32 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Hippeastrum Question Date: Sat, 07 May 2005 16:19:46 -0700 Angelo PorcelliDoug Westfall ang.por@aliceposta.it1111 Claiborne Dr. Long Beach, CA > Doug, > > I can't answer properly to your question, but I have found two clones of > Hippeastrum aulicum here. The one in my photo is the 'robust' one with flowers > of 20cm (almost 8") across of a vivid red orange. The 'weak' one has flowers > of 12cm (barely 4") of a paler colour with more green. It's not a matter of > cultivation, because the 'weak' one grows well, but it is just smaller. > Probably there's a bit of variability in this species. ^^^^^^ Angelo, Thanks. I think that I have the answer - Hippeastrum aulicum seem to be rather variable from nature. Maybe there is a lot of "natural" hybridizing in the "wild." Any way, it seems that there is significant variability w/in the species. Doug From Billthebulbbaron@aol.com Sat May 7 23:38:15 2005 Message-Id: From: Billthebulbbaron@aol.com Subject: Bulbs on Crete... Date: Sat, 7 May 2005 23:38:10 EDT Hello all, Does anyone have any bulb-related (or if not, other horticultural) contacts on Crete? If so, please reply privately to: Bill the Bulb Baron Bill the Bulb Baron.com William R.P. Welch P.O. Box 1736 (UPS: 264 West Carmel Valley Road) Carmel Valley, CA 93924-1736, USA Phone/fax (831) 659-3830 From mann@mweb.co.za Sun May 8 12:20:32 2005 Message-Id: <002601c553e9$dffa85f0$16f917c4@georgenew> From: "George Mann" Subject: New to the Group. Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 18:20:39 +0200 Hi all my name is George Mann, I just joined the PBS group, I am a total Amaryllidaceae fanatic I have been breeding clivia and Haemanthus for about about 6 years now and absolutely love it. From Theladygardens@aol.com Sun May 8 12:28:56 2005 Message-Id: <103.610c371a.2faf9843@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: just south of Palo Alto in Los Gatos Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 12:28:51 EDT Thanks for the kind words. I am no saint, I do get frustrated at doing this when people trample all my new vegetable seedlings because they don't show a big bloom, and do other similar things. Carolyn From mann@mweb.co.za Sun May 8 15:11:55 2005 Message-Id: <002c01c55401$d10a70b0$adfa17c4@georgenew> From: "George Mann" Subject: Unknown Cyrtanthus Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 21:12:01 +0200 Hi all, I was compiling a list of all the Cyrtanthus species and natural occuring varieties, when I came across this picture of a Cyrtanthus found on Cecil Kop, Zimbabwe.It doesnt fit any of the discriptions that I have of the, about 66 naturaly found species or varieties, acording to the website it is Cyrtanthus sangiuneus, but the colour (small pink flowers) of the flower and size isnt right, can someone identify it? Web site with picture: http://images.google.co.za/imgres?imgurl=http://www.zimbabweflora.co.zw/speciesdata/amaryllidac/cyrtanthus/sanguineus/cyrta_san1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.zimbabweflora.co.zw/speciesdata/amaryllidac/cyrtanthus/sanguineus/cyrta_san1.php&h=920&w=735&sz=48&tbnid=tEBAswMD8CYJ:&tbnh=145&tbnw=116&hl=en&start=29&prev=/images%3Fq%3DCyrtanthus%2Bsanguineus%26start%3D20%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN or http://images.google.co.za/images?q=Cyrtanthus+sanguineus&hl=en&lr=&start=20&sa=N&filter=0 kind regards George Mann Pretoria South Africa mann@mweb.co.za From leo1010@attglobal.net Sun May 8 17:40:50 2005 Message-Id: <427E7865.5060106@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Cyrtanthus seedling problem Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 14:36:53 -0600 Thanks to you who replied with some very helpful suggestions. I'm going to experiment a little and report back eventually. Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From piabinha@yahoo.com Sun May 8 17:03:07 2005 Message-Id: <20050508210307.37339.qmail@web51906.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: my Veltheimia Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 14:03:06 -0700 (PDT) hi all, sorry for being such a klutz on this topic. just received an email from the person who sent me the V. "capensis." mine are indeed bracteata... oh well... thanks for all your replies. tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From leo1010@attglobal.net Sun May 8 18:29:28 2005 Message-Id: <427E83C9.3010700@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: New member. Bulb biotechnologist. Date: Sun, 08 May 2005 15:25:29 -0600 Hello Darren, > I recently moved to La Paz, BCS, Mexico and will set up a tissue > culture unit and exotic plant nursery here. > > I want to include bulbs in my work. > > Here are the climatic figures for the region: > > http://uk.weather.com/weather/climatology/MXBS0006 > > What bulbs do you think will do well here. I see lilies growing in a > neighbours garden and naturalised Hippeastrum. I haven't lived there but I did visit. I live in the same desert, though, the Sonoran desert, just a few hundred miles north in Phoenix, Arizona, USA. Some issues you will face are: High to very high summer temperatures day and night; Relatively high winter temperatures day and night; Minimal to no winter chilling; Intense sun all year; Very irregular rain: any time of year, sometimes months of drought, with potential for torrential storms including hurricanes; Unpredictable electricity - have power backup for computer, critical refrigerators, freezers, lights, and incubators; Mexican legal issues related to export of native plants and succulents. Be sure you understand these before attempting to export. Winter-growers might be problematic. I get much cooler winters in Phoenix than you will in La Paz so winter-growers do very well here. Anything that needs a definite change of seasons might get confused. I would expect Hippeastrum hybrids, Agapanthus, Crinum (especially the desert species), Zephyranthes/Habranthus, and a host of S American bulbs to do well. Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From Antennaria@aol.com Sun May 8 22:54:37 2005 Message-Id: From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Fritillaria biflora "grayana" Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 22:54:32 EDT Jane McGary mentioned about the possibility of hybridization occurring with seedling bulbs of Frit. biflora "grayana" that she sent out. Here are links to photos of the plants that flowered for me the first time this year, originally from Jane's autumn bulb list. There are 12 plants, but this is the first year a few bloomed, 4 of them, reached 5-6" in height, with chubby greenish, brownish-red checkered bells, particularly reddish-brown at the flower apex. Inside, the flowers are intense green-yellow, with bold black nectary spots. Jane, how do these compare to the "grayana" entity that you know of? Regardless, I'm tickled pink to have them bloom, and bloom over a long period they do! Here are three links to photos I took of the plants over the weekend: http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_ID.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_1.jpg http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_2.jpg Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From jimmckenney@starpower.net Mon May 9 09:13:46 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$upej9@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Fritillaria biflora "grayana" Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 09:12:20 -0400 Mark, is there any chance your labels wandered? That doesn't look like a New World (i.e. North American) frit to me. Whatever it is, it's very nice, and I can see why you are so happy to have them. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where the frit season is just about over. From silverhill@yebo.co.za Mon May 9 12:03:11 2005 Message-Id: <021701c554af$bedd6ec0$0100a8c0@SERVER> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: Scadoxus pole-evansii Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 17:54:52 +0200 We have seeds of Scadoxus pole-evansii (from eastern Zimbabwe)for sale. if anyone is interested, please contact me privately at rachel@silverhillseeds.co.za Regards Rachel Saunders Tel +27 21 762 4245 Fax +27 21 797 6609 PO Box 53108, Kenilworth, 7745 South Africa ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Mann" To: Cc: "George Mann" Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 9:12 PM Subject: [pbs] Unknown Cyrtanthus Hi all, I was compiling a list of all the Cyrtanthus species and natural occuring varieties, when I came across this picture of a Cyrtanthus found on Cecil Kop, Zimbabwe.It doesnt fit any of the discriptions that I have of the, about 66 naturaly found species or varieties, acording to the website it is Cyrtanthus sangiuneus, but the colour (small pink flowers) of the flower and size isnt right, can someone identify it? Web site with picture: http://images.google.co.za/imgres?imgurl=http://www.zimbabweflora.co.zw/speciesdata/amaryllidac/cyrtanthus/sanguineus/cyrta_san1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.zimbabweflora.co.zw/speciesdata/amaryllidac/cyrtanthus/sanguineus/cyrta_san1.php&h=920&w=735&sz=48&tbnid=tEBAswMD8CYJ:&tbnh=145&tbnw=116&hl=en&start=29&prev=/images%3Fq%3DCyrtanthus%2Bsanguineus%26start%3D20%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN or http://images.google.co.za/images?q=Cyrtanthus+sanguineus&hl=en&lr=&start=20&sa=N&filter=0 kind regards George Mann Pretoria South Africa mann@mweb.co.za _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon May 9 12:29:27 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050509092444.010da368@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria biflora "grayana" Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 09:26:18 -0700 Mark directed us to some pictures on his website and asked:At 10:54 PM 5/8/2005 -0400, you wrote: >Jane McGary mentioned about the possibility of hybridization occurring with >seedling bulbs of Frit. biflora "grayana" that she sent out. Here are >links to >photos of the plants that flowered for me the first time this year, >originally from Jane's autumn bulb list. There are 12 plants, but this is >the first >year a few bloomed, 4 of them, reached 5-6" in height, with chubby greenish, >brownish-red checkered bells, particularly reddish-brown at the flower apex. >Inside, the flowers are intense green-yellow, with bold black nectary spots. > >Jane, how do these compare to the "grayana" entity that you know of? >Regardless, I'm tickled pink to have them bloom, and bloom over a long >period they >do! Here are three links to photos I took of the plants over the weekend: > >http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_ID.jpg >http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_1.jpg >http://www.plantbuzz.com/buzz/Fritillaria_biflora_grayana_2.jpg ANSWER: Mark, either I or you mixed up the bulbs and labels. Your photos are not of F. biflora or indeed of any California fritillaria at all, but appear to be something in the Fritillaria thessala line. Sorry, if it was my mistake! Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From cathycraigea@hotmail.com Mon May 9 13:39:18 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Reduced Rate for shipping Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 10:39:15 -0700 Hi all, If you are shipping bulbs or anything else, the US postal service has a new FLAT RATE BOX. This is PRIORITY mail shipping. They have complimentary boxes at the post office, finished inside dimensions are 11 x 8.5 x 5.5, and everything you can get into this box (with NO weight limit), you can ship Priority Mail inside the US for a FLAT $7.70! I just sent Dell a box this size full of bulbs this morning and it cost me $14.05. The postmaster didn't volunteer this flat rate box method (which was started a few months ago) but when I told him I was out of Priority Mailing boxes and needed a square one, then he says oh yeah, we have a new flat rate box. This will cut the cost about in half for you on this size package, so take advantage of it and get some of these boxes at your local post office. Cathy Craig EA, President PBS From samclan@redshift.com Tue May 10 12:30:41 2005 Message-Id: <428033DF.3080002@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: Reduced Rate for shipping Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 21:09:03 -0700 Thank you. This should please a lot of geophyte enthusiasts, me included. Shirley Meneice Cathy Craig wrote: > Hi all, > > If you are shipping bulbs or anything else, the US postal service has > a new FLAT RATE BOX. This is PRIORITY mail shipping. > > They have complimentary boxes at the post office, finished inside > dimensions are 11 x 8.5 x 5.5, and everything you can get into this > box (with NO weight limit), you can ship Priority Mail inside the US > for a FLAT $7.70! > > I just sent Dell a box this size full of bulbs this morning and it > cost me $14.05. The postmaster didn't volunteer this flat rate box > method (which was started a few months ago) but when I told him I was > out of Priority Mailing boxes and needed a square one, then he says oh > yeah, we have a new flat rate box. > > This will cut the cost about in half for you on this size package, so > take advantage of it and get some of these boxes at your local post > office. > > Cathy Craig EA, President PBS > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.7 - Release Date: 5/9/05 From msittner@mcn.org Tue May 10 02:49:55 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050509223952.01fd48d0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Mon, 09 May 2005 23:11:55 -0700 Hi, I'm still working on all the pictures I took during the week we toured mostly the central part of California looking for flowers in April. We knew we had missed the wonderful displays in the desert, but we went to other areas where there were still some spectacular flowers and I saw a lot of bulbs. It's going to take some time for me to get them all on the wiki, but I made an attempt to add pictures taken along the Hite's Cove Trail which climbs above the south fork of the Merced River off Highway 140 before you get to Yosemite. We arrived late afternoon and spent about three hours hiking the trail and looking at the gorgeous flowers. There were masses of a small annual orange California poppy, Eschscholzia caespitosa, a pretty blue and white Lupine, Lupinus bicolor, and lots and lots of Owl's Clover, Castillja exserta. We saw the latter almost every day on our trip. There were many other wonderful flowers like Chinese houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Fiesta Flower (Pholistoma auritum), Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja applegatei), Indian Pink (Silene californica), Mustang Clover (Linanthus montanus), and an orange Dudleya, Dudleya cymosa. But these plants are off topic as our forum is about bulbs and there were were three that were evident all along the trail. We also saw some Calochortus venustus over the side of the cliff toward the river, but none of us were brave enough to try to get close enough to photograph it. Dichelostemma volubile was climbing through trees, shrubs, poison oak, all over annuals, and even twining around itself. The most bizarre was seeing it on a rock ledge with the Dudleya. We wondered if it had help getting there, but couldn't really tell. Somehow growing this one in a container just doesn't do justice to how it is in the wild. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma Triteleia ixioides ssp. scabra we had seen it earlier in Kern County growing in grass, a pale yellow form which I also added pictures of to the wiki so people could see a common habitat. Along the Hite's Cove Trail it was growing with Chinese Houses and in many other delightful combinations and some of the plants had purple stripes on the flowers. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Triteleia Finally everywhere was Calochortus albus which is one of my favorite Calochortus. I was having a lot of trouble getting my digital camera to focus on the flowers and not something else so took a lot of pictures I deleted. The ones I added were the best of the lot including one that shows how lovely the Collinsia was. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus I hope you all enjoy seeing some of California's treasures in the wild. I'll be adding more as I have time. Mary Sue From ang.por@aliceposta.it Tue May 10 03:43:35 2005 Message-Id: <002101c55533$e6267420$760a3352@t7t2y7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: new photos on wiki Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 09:43:03 +0200 Dear friends, I have added some photos of Scilla hyacinthoides, Scilla peruviana, Iris kochii, Iris sicula, Dietes bicolor, Pancratium maritimum and also updated Allium roseum, Allium subhirsutum, Iris bicapitata. Some photos are not 'perfect' but as many of you, I am not a professional photographer, so enjoy them as they are ! Angelo Porcelli Italy From dells@voicenet.com Tue May 10 06:58:46 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 89 Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 06:58:58 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 89" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org . Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! BULBS from Cathy Craig: 1. Urginia maritima originally from Lauw in France. Like sunny, well drained position. Leaves in spring/summer, blooms in fall. If you pot up, don't disturb. It is said they don't bloom potted but will if you are patient enough. 2. Veltheimia bracteata orig grown by me from seed from Bill Dijk in NZ. Excellent drainage required on all the V's: perhaps all sand if you can grow that way. I personally have had the best luck with them in ground in a raised bed with no automatic watering system. 3. Veltheimia bracteata 'rosealba' originally from Wm Reuters in Germany, all same clone. 4. Veltheimia bracteata 'reverse rosealba' originally from Bill Dijk in NZ. 5. Rhodophiala bifida, all same clone, originally from Rodney Barton. I have been growing all these in four 2 gallon plastic nursery pots and they eventually all end up in the bottom of the pot. Presumably they are not as picky about perfect drainage as other bulbs and seem to like very deep planting. The bases of the bulb are at what amounts to 5 inches below top of soil. "Bloom size" or maximum bulb size seems to be about 12 cm. 6. Small-med size Narcissus. Probably ŒThalia.¹ If they bloom white, that's what they are. They are from an outdoor bed, and about all I grow in-ground here, in the way of Narcissus, are ŒThalia.¹ Excellent daffodil! Very reliable, always blooms profusely, very pretty, nice large-enough flower, persistent, multiplies well, and unlike lots of daffs I could mention, these bloom reliably above the foliage even here in So Cal. 7. Ornithogalum umbellatum originally from Charles Schwartz here in So Cal. Cute; white and green flowers, short. [Dell notes that here in PA, they are viciously invasive.] 8. Ixias?: I was never sure as they were in a bed, and all these tender bulbs grow like weeds here, and some get mixed into others. They are perhaps tritonias. They are originally from Mary Sue, and she may know exactly what they are. They bloom with rather funnel or tulip-shaped flowers. Very pretty, orange-tan, most of them. 9.Tritonias originally from Mary Sue. Really lovely pink - multicolor, light but very striking flowers. 10. Crinum 'Hannibal's Dwarf'. These have been all growing in a large clay pot for some years now. I had a ton of crinums and have about gotten them all into the ground this last year. They are blooming better than they did in pots, but I tend to kind of neglect the potted plants.These are all well-rooted bulbs, small but I don't think these crinums ever get big bulbs like powellii or moorei. I think I got the original bulb from Tony Avent. All same clone. 11. Narcissus 'King Alfred'. They bloomed wonderfully here but I think these particular narcissus need more cold than we get here in winter (which is about no cold at all) and would naturalize better for people in zone 8 and colder. Thank you, Cathy !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX From merrill@gamblegarden.org Tue May 10 10:40:41 2005 Message-Id: <20050510144040.EFEC93CACF@cmlapp25.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 07:40:40 -0700 Great shots Mary Sue. Thanks for sharing. I'm heading up to Russian Ridge this week as I've heard that bloom is maxing out this week. I hope to find some of the local geophytes... Merrill in Palo Alto -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 11:12 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Hi, I'm still working on all the pictures I took during the week we toured mostly the central part of California looking for flowers in April. We knew we had missed the wonderful displays in the desert, but we went to other areas where there were still some spectacular flowers and I saw a lot of bulbs. It's going to take some time for me to get them all on the wiki, but I made an attempt to add pictures taken along the Hite's Cove Trail which climbs above the south fork of the Merced River off Highway 140 before you get to Yosemite. We arrived late afternoon and spent about three hours hiking the trail and looking at the gorgeous flowers. There were masses of a small annual orange California poppy, Eschscholzia caespitosa, a pretty blue and white Lupine, Lupinus bicolor, and lots and lots of Owl's Clover, Castillja exserta. We saw the latter almost every day on our trip. There were many other wonderful flowers like Chinese houses (Collinsia heterophylla), Fiesta Flower (Pholistoma auritum), Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja applegatei), Indian Pink (Silene californica), Mustang Clover (Linanthus montanus), and an orange Dudleya, Dudleya cymosa. But these plants are off topic as our forum is about bulbs and there were were three that were evident all along the trail. We also saw some Calochortus venustus over the side of the cliff toward the river, but none of us were brave enough to try to get close enough to photograph it. Dichelostemma volubile was climbing through trees, shrubs, poison oak, all over annuals, and even twining around itself. The most bizarre was seeing it on a rock ledge with the Dudleya. We wondered if it had help getting there, but couldn't really tell. Somehow growing this one in a container just doesn't do justice to how it is in the wild. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma Triteleia ixioides ssp. scabra we had seen it earlier in Kern County growing in grass, a pale yellow form which I also added pictures of to the wiki so people could see a common habitat. Along the Hite's Cove Trail it was growing with Chinese Houses and in many other delightful combinations and some of the plants had purple stripes on the flowers. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Triteleia Finally everywhere was Calochortus albus which is one of my favorite Calochortus. I was having a lot of trouble getting my digital camera to focus on the flowers and not something else so took a lot of pictures I deleted. The ones I added were the best of the lot including one that shows how lovely the Collinsia was. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus I hope you all enjoy seeing some of California's treasures in the wild. I'll be adding more as I have time. Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From btankers@cbgnt.chicagobotanic.org Tue May 10 10:49:01 2005 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A71C528@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 09:52:00 -0500 Mary Sue: Thank you very much for sharing these images and your account of the hike. The next best thing to being there is reading your account and seeing the pictures. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue May 10 12:13:16 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$11oiah@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 12:13:14 -0400 Nice photos, Mary Sue. The one of Calochortus albus and the Collinsia is really stunning. I have a packet of seed of Collinsia heterophylla in the 'fridge - it's been there for years. The photo on the seed packet must be washed out - it's not nearly so intense. I think in the old days this used to be a commonly grown annual here on the east coast, but I've never seen it. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I'm looking over the garden to find a spot to start a little subdivision of Chinese houses. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue May 10 15:42:15 2005 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 11:08:00 -0700 Mary Sue, I know you set up a temporary place on the wiki for photos of the deserts in this unusually rainy year to let people around the world see what it looks like. I have photos from two other trips I'm still planning on posting there. But I'm wondering if you could expand the definition slightly of that temporary page to include photos from your latest trips since they also seem to be a fantastic result of the unusual amount of rain in this part of the country this year. From people's comments about your explicitly bulb-related photos, I think there would be some interest in seeing them. (I know I would love to see more than just your bulb pictures from these trips!) Compared to some of the other plant related lists I'm on, bulbophiliacs seem to be disproportionately interested and knowledgeable about all types of flowering plants it seems. --Lee On May 9, 2005, at 11:11 PM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > There were many other wonderful flowers ... But these plants are off > topic as our forum is about bulbs and there were were three that were > evident all along the trail. > > I hope you all enjoy seeing some of California's treasures in the > wild. I'll be adding more as I have time. > > Mary Sue From samclan@redshift.com Wed May 11 01:06:00 2005 Message-Id: <4281936B.7090508@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: California Bulbs blooming on Hite Cove Trail Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 22:08:59 -0700 That last Calochortas picture is absolutely FABULOUS! Shirley Meneice Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Hi, > > I'm still working on all the pictures I took during the week we toured > mostly the central part of California looking for flowers in April. We > knew we had missed the wonderful displays in the desert, but we went > to other areas where there were still some spectacular flowers and I > saw a lot of bulbs. It's going to take some time for me to get them > all on the wiki, but I made an attempt to add pictures taken along the > Hite's Cove Trail which climbs above the south fork of the Merced > River off Highway 140 before you get to Yosemite. We arrived late > afternoon and spent about three hours hiking the trail and looking at > the gorgeous flowers. There were masses of a small annual orange > California poppy, Eschscholzia caespitosa, a pretty blue and white > Lupine, Lupinus bicolor, and lots and lots of Owl's Clover, Castillja > exserta. We saw the latter almost every day on our trip. There were > many other wonderful flowers like Chinese houses (Collinsia > heterophylla), Fiesta Flower (Pholistoma auritum), Indian Paintbrush > (Castilleja applegatei), Indian Pink (Silene californica), Mustang > Clover (Linanthus montanus), and an orange Dudleya, Dudleya cymosa. > But these plants are off topic as our forum is about bulbs and there > were were three that were evident all along the trail. We also saw > some Calochortus venustus over the side of the cliff toward the river, > but none of us were brave enough to try to get close enough to > photograph it. > > Dichelostemma volubile was climbing through trees, shrubs, poison oak, > all over annuals, and even twining around itself. The most bizarre was > seeing it on a rock ledge with the Dudleya. We wondered if it had help > getting there, but couldn't really tell. Somehow growing this one in a > container just doesn't do justice to how it is in the wild. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma > > Triteleia ixioides ssp. scabra we had seen it earlier in Kern County > growing in grass, a pale yellow form which I also added pictures of to > the wiki so people could see a common habitat. Along the Hite's Cove > Trail it was growing with Chinese Houses and in many other delightful > combinations and some of the plants had purple stripes on the flowers. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Triteleia > > Finally everywhere was Calochortus albus which is one of my favorite > Calochortus. I was having a lot of trouble getting my digital camera > to focus on the flowers and not something else so took a lot of > pictures I deleted. The ones I added were the best of the lot > including one that shows how lovely the Collinsia was. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus > > I hope you all enjoy seeing some of California's treasures in the > wild. I'll be adding more as I have time. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.8 - Release Date: 5/10/05 From dells@voicenet.com Wed May 11 06:12:32 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Blockbusting BX 89 Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 06:11:40 -0400 Dear BX Supporters, I was away from the computer all day, and, as in the story about the stone that made endless amounts of soup, your orders poured in. ( I hope that members who have extra bulbs when they divide and repot will see from this example that BULBS are the most desirable commodities on this exchange. Please be generous!! And take the extra time and labor to donate bulbs as well as seed. Remember, you will be reimbursed for your postage through credit in the BX.) There are far more orders than I have bulbs to fill. I will do my best to fill the earliest orders. After the tenth order, I think there will not be much to be had. I will not reply to all of your orders; there are too many (almost 40). Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From totototo@pacificcoast.net Wed May 11 10:14:48 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Pacific BX 89 Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 07:25:17 -0800 On 10 May 05 at 6:58, Dell Sherk wrote: > 11. Narcissus 'King Alfred'. They bloomed > wonderfully here but I think these particular > narcissus need more cold than we get here in > winter (which is about no cold at all) and > would naturalize better for people in zone 8 > and colder. Unless this is a very old planting where considerable care has been taken in the labelling, it's unlikely that this is really 'King Alfred'. According to what I've read, the real 'King Alfred' was long ago supplanted in commerce by other cultivars of similar appearance. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From mann@mweb.co.za Wed May 11 12:29:02 2005 Message-Id: <001401c55646$89e71750$97f817c4@georgenew> From: "George Mann" Subject: Haemanthus Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 18:29:00 +0200 Hi all, is there anyone who can help me with information on growing Haemanthus nortieri and namaquaensis, soil tipe amount of water? And information on Haemanthus avasmontanus? Kind Regards George Mann South Africa mannQmweb.co.za From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed May 11 13:26:29 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Blockbusting BX 89 Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 17:26:27 +0000 >From: Dell Sherk >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: , >,, , >,,Cathy Craig >, , >Subject: [pbs] Blockbusting BX 89 >Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 06:11:40 -0400 > >Dear BX Supporters, > >I was away from the computer all day, and, as in the story about the stone >that made endless amounts of soup, your orders poured in. ( I hope that >members who have extra bulbs when they divide and repot will see from this >example that BULBS are the most desirable commodities on this exchange. >Please be generous!! And take the extra time and labor to donate bulbs as >well as seed. Remember, you will be reimbursed for your postage through >credit in the BX.) > >There are far more orders than I have bulbs to fill. I will do my best to >fill the earliest orders. After the tenth order, I think there will not be >much to be had. > >I will not reply to all of your orders; there are too many (almost 40). > >Best wishes, >Dell Hi Dell: From this BX I would like the story about the stone that produced soup(!?!?!?!?!?). Is there a site in the web telling this story? Regards Alberto Instead it reminds me when Mickey Mouse flooded the wizard's castle with pouring water. _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed May 11 13:30:35 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: OOOOPS, Sorry! Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 17:30:27 +0000 I must be going senile fast. That posting was private to Dell Please forgive Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ From DaveKarn@aol.com Wed May 11 13:53:39 2005 Message-Id: <1a8.37928693.2fb3a09c@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: REPLY: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89 Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 13:53:32 EDT In a message dated 5/11/05 7:15:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, totototo@pacificcoast.net writes: > the real 'King Alfred' was long ago supplanted in commerce by other > cultivars of similar appearance. > All ~ This has long been true but is changing. Because of this emphasis on KA by so many daffodil suppliers (who are never out of anything and substitute at will), a few bulbs of the genuine thing have become available from specialist suppliers. I have a few bulbs of this, the flowers from which I will sometimes bench at shows just to display to visitors what the real thing looks like. These have come from very old plantings on property that has been in the same family for generations so there is very little likelihood that they aren't what they purport to be. The commonest substitutes for 'King Alfred' are 'Dutch Master' and 'Unsurpassable.' Too, there has grown in recent years a very real interest in historical plants -- and daffodils are no exception -- to the point where many of these really old ones are finding themselves back in demand, once again. I guess it's like the three button suit -- if you hang on to it long enough, it periodically comes back into fashion again! Best, Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils Silverton, OR email: davekarn@aol.com Cool Mediterranean climate -- wet and cool/cold in winter and hot and dry in summer. From jimmckenney@starpower.net Wed May 11 16:47:58 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$12hb73@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: REPLY: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89 Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 16:47:55 -0400 Whether or not the true King Alfred still exists in commerce is a question I have often pondered. What is certain, however, is that King Alfred was illustrated in various publications early in the twentieth century. I often give talks about bulbs to garden clubs; for years I've been using a photograph of one of the two photographs of 'King Alfred' from Calvert's Daffodil Growing for Pleasure and Profit (1929) to give people an idea of what this once preeminent cultivar looked like. However, these photographs themselves presage the doubts we now experience in identifying plants of this cultivar with confidence: keeping in mind the very narrow limits within which daffodil cultivars of a given division vary, I would not be surprised if someone made two cultivars out of the plants illustrated in these two photos. There are also photographs of 'King Alfred' in David Griffiths various daffodil publications from, roughly, the period between the two World Wars. These photographs have an odd quality, almost as if they are negatives or anatomical illustrations of transparent flowers. This has the peculiar advantage of forcing you to view them more objectively - they're certainly not beautiful. The one thing which immediately separates 'King Alfred' from modern trumpet cultivars (and for that matter, from most of the trumpets of Calvert's time so fast was daffodil breeding going at that time) is the poor development of the perianth of 'King Alfred': the perianth segments are narrowish, not smooth, slightly irregular and comparatively small. Of course it is frequently illustrated in catalogs of the period, but the catalog illustrations often romanticize it beyond recognition. 'King Alfred' is old enough to have received an FCC in 1899 according to Calvert (I don't know how to reconcile that date with what follows). According to Calvert "It was in 1901 that raisers had the shock of their lives when the little known Mr. Kendall put King Alfred before the R.H.S. Narcissus Committee." Calvert goes on to say that Kendall had raised a stock of 'King Alfred' before showing it, and that one hundred bulbs were reputed to have changed hands that first year. I can't cite an example, but I wouldn't be surprised if confusion about the true 'King Alfred' began shortly afterward - if only because demand was so great right from the start. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the true 'King Alfred' has doubtless only been represented by pretenders to the throne. From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Wed May 11 17:16:16 2005 Message-Id: <000a01c5566e$a0eb3e90$3858a551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:15:59 +0200 Hello, My name is Marie-Paule,I am new and must still learn much,I live in Belgium,and search for a long time the pamianthe peruviana and de paramongaia weberbaueri,know someone of you where can I buy these bulbs? Kind Regards, Marie-Paule From crinum@libero.it Wed May 11 17:18:48 2005 Message-Id: From: "crinum@libero.it" Subject: pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:18:46 +0200 Hello Marie-Paule try here: http://www.tomorrowsplants.com/ Alberto Italy ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Wed, 11 May 2005 23:15:59 +0200 Subject : [pbs] pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri > Hello, > My name is Marie-Paule,I am new and must still learn much,I live in Belgium,and search for a long time the pamianthe peruviana and de paramongaia weberbaueri,know someone of you where can I buy these bulbs? > Kind Regards, > Marie-Paule > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ____________________________________________________________ Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Wed May 11 17:37:52 2005 Message-Id: <000a01c55671$a5a319f0$3858a551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 23:37:35 +0200 Hello Alberto, Mister Jeans of tomorrwsplants can not send to Belgium??I've maild Mister Jeans a few times,but thank You for the information. Marie Paule ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "pbs" Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 11:18 PM Subject: Re:[pbs] pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Hello Marie-Paule try here: http://www.tomorrowsplants.com/ Alberto Italy ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Wed, 11 May 2005 23:15:59 +0200 Subject : [pbs] pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri > Hello, > My name is Marie-Paule,I am new and must still learn much,I live in Belgium,and search for a long time the pamianthe peruviana and de paramongaia weberbaueri,know someone of you where can I buy these bulbs? > Kind Regards, > Marie-Paule > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ____________________________________________________________ Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed May 11 19:15:08 2005 Message-Id: <47254b71cd5f5fb1d914a2afd3d476d8@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 16:15:06 -0700 Other than Tomorrows Plants, I haven't heard of a mail order place that offers bulbs of Paramongaia weberbaueri or Pamianthe peruviana. However, seeds of these are available from time to time. Seeds of Pamianthe have been offered in the past by Seeds of Distinction and I think Chilterns . Also sometimes Tony Palmer of Kellydale Nursery in New Zealand has them for sale. I'm not sure if Bill Dijk (Daffodil Acres) , also in New Zealand, also sometimes has seed of this. Nestlebrae Exotics in New Zealand sometime has seeds of Paramongaia whenever their plants have a successful seed crop. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 11, 2005, at 2:15 PM, Marie-Paule wrote: > Hello, > My name is Marie-Paule,I am new and must still learn much,I live in > Belgium,and search for a long time the pamianthe peruviana and de > paramongaia weberbaueri,know someone of you where can I buy these > bulbs? > Kind Regards, > Marie-Paule From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Thu May 12 08:15:16 2005 Message-Id: <000501c556ec$37ef2fe0$c3145351@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 14:14:59 +0200 Hello Lee, Thanks allot for the information, Marie-Paule Opdenakker ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2005 1:15 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] pamianthe peruviana and paramongaia weberbaueri > Other than Tomorrows Plants, I haven't heard of a mail order place that > offers bulbs of Paramongaia weberbaueri or Pamianthe peruviana. > However, seeds of these are available from time to time. Seeds of > Pamianthe have been offered in the past by Seeds of Distinction > and I think Chilterns > . Also sometimes Tony > Palmer of Kellydale Nursery in New Zealand > has them > for sale. I'm not sure if Bill Dijk (Daffodil Acres) > , also in New Zealand, also sometimes has seed of > this. Nestlebrae Exotics in New Zealand > sometime has seeds > of Paramongaia whenever their plants have a successful seed crop. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 > > On May 11, 2005, at 2:15 PM, Marie-Paule wrote: > > Hello, > > My name is Marie-Paule,I am new and must still learn much,I live in > > Belgium,and search for a long time the pamianthe peruviana and de > > paramongaia weberbaueri,know someone of you where can I buy these > > bulbs? > > Kind Regards, > > Marie-Paule > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From Antennaria@aol.com Thu May 12 23:35:11 2005 Message-Id: From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Fritillaria biflora "grayana" Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 23:35:07 EDT Jane McGary janemcgary@earthlink.net wrote: >ANSWER: Mark, either I or you mixed up the bulbs and >labels. Your photos are not of F. biflora or indeed of any >California fritillaria at all, but appear to be something in >the Fritillaria thessala line. Sorry, if it was my mistake! Hi Jane et al, In the past 5-6 years, I've used extra measures to label plants. All plants, particularly bulbs, get labelled with the original label + 2 of my own labels both in front of and in back of the bulb grouping. Bulbs from you were planted out in a new "tree ring", a 5' circle around a tree, where I underplant with choice bulbs. The only Frits in this area, I grow from your material.... both labels indicate Fritillaria biflora "grayana" 10 bulbs, 2002 (indeed there are 10 plants growing); growing next to it are Frit. crassifolia kurdica (also 10 bulbs) which flowers beautifully and is pictured on my web pages, and F. bythinica (3 bulbs, planted 2003), and a number of Crocus species. Long and short of it, in this case, I don't think I mixed up anything... the bulbs are planted and labelled as they came in the shipment. So, if these are a F. thessala form, they are nice and I'm happy to have them... I'd just like to apply the correct name to them. At the very least, I now know that they are definitely not a Frit. biflora form, which I'm glad to be aware of. Cheers, Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From msittner@mcn.org Fri May 13 00:22:25 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050512211603.021a1240@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Nerine sarniensis blooming in habitat Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 21:21:35 -0700 Hi, Cameron McMaster has sent me some pictures of Nerine sarniensis blooming in habitat. Many of us grow the wonderful hybrids from this species which can be quite spectacular with their shiny flowers. But that doesn't quite compare with seeing them flowering in the wild. What I want to know is how Cameron managed to get there to photograph the flowers. I doubt there was a trail up the mountain. Knowing Cameron, he'd find a way to get there. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Nerine Mary Sue From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 09:14:07 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Nerines in hotter climates Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 13:14:05 +0000 Would autumn blooming Nerines grow in La Paz, BCS, Mexico do you think? Climate statistics: http://uk.weather.com/weather/climatology/MXBS0006 Would it be too hot to allow flowering? Kind regards Darren From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 09:19:17 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 13:19:15 +0000 I want to buy lily seeds and bulbs for my nursery. I am looking for those more suited to a more tropical environment. I need to get them to La Paz, BCS, México. If you can help me locate suppliers, or can supply yourself, please let me know. Kind regards Darren From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri May 13 13:46:42 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050513093319.0108e400@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 09:41:01 -0700 Darren asked about obtaining seeds of lily species suitable for Baja California Sur, Mexico. (This is the Mexican state at the tip of the Baja California peninsula, familiar to tourists as the home of Cabo San Lucas.) I suggest that Darren investigate the list of Northwest Native Seeds, the offering of Ron Ratko . Various lily species of the American West are sometimes offered. It should be noted, however, that many of these lily species, though from California, grow at subalpine elevations and are decidedly not "tropical" in their hardiness; for example, Lilium kelloggii grows well outdoors here in northwestern Oregon (if the deer didn't get inside its bamboo cage and eat it last night!). The Archibalds also have a wide selection of American bulb seed. There are several species of lilies from the East Asian tropics, or at any rate substropics, but as far as I know all of them grow in areas that are quite humid and rainy in summer. L. formosanum is often available through seed exchanges, but the others are mostly rare in commerce (and in the wild). Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA At 01:19 PM 5/13/2005 +0000, you wrote: >I want to buy lily seeds and bulbs for my nursery. > >I am looking for those more suited to a more tropical environment. > >I need to get them to La Paz, BCS, México. > >If you can help me locate suppliers, or can supply yourself, please let me >know. > >Kind regards > >Darren From arnold@nj.rr.com Fri May 13 14:02:38 2005 Message-Id: <4284EB8D.2070807@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:01:49 -0400 Jane: I can't tell you where I read it but it seems lilies are strictly ( naturally occurring) a northern hemisphere genus. I would also be interested in how close to the equator lilies occur naturally. Arnold New Jersey (Where the wall came tumbling down yesterday in NYC) From prallen@ev1.net Fri May 13 16:40:13 2005 Message-Id: <001401c557ef$a29fa960$cecadacf@oemcomputer> From: "prallen" Subject: re; Lily seeds & bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:11:11 -0500 Darren; Email me privately about lily seeds. Patty From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri May 13 16:29:07 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:05 +0000 Hi: There are mainly two species that will grow like weeds in such a warm environment, longiflorum and formosanum. They may well reach flowering size in two seasons from seed but they will do really well in acidic soils. Lilium davidi and L . regale may adapt to heat as a number of the oriental hybrids swarms, those that are forced in greenhouses for the cut flower trade. All of them will be indifferent to winter rains if well drained but will demand spring, summer and autumn watering. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 16:29:24 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:22 +0000 I understand that one at least occurs in tropical areas south of Japan. Possibily L. Formosum? Darren >From: arnold trachtenberg >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:01:49 -0400 > >Jane: > >I can't tell you where I read it but it seems lilies are strictly ( >naturally occurring) a northern hemisphere genus. I would also be >interested in how close to the equator lilies occur naturally. > >Arnold >New Jersey >(Where the wall came tumbling down yesterday in NYC) >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 16:31:37 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:31:35 +0000 Thank you for the advice. Anybody know anyone supplying seeds/bulbs that I can get into Mexico? Darren >From: "Alberto Castillo" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:05 +0000 > > >Hi: > There are mainly two species that will grow like weeds in such a warm >environment, longiflorum and formosanum. They may well reach flowering size >in two seasons from seed but they will do really well in acidic soils. >Lilium davidi and L . regale may adapt to heat as a number of the oriental >hybrids swarms, those that are forced in greenhouses for the cut flower >trade. All of them will be indifferent to winter rains if well drained but >will demand spring, summer and autumn watering. >Regards >Alberto > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri May 13 16:46:33 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:46:32 +0000 >From: "Darren Sage" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:22 +0000 > >I understand that one at least occurs in tropical areas south of Japan. >Possibily L. Formosum? > >Darren Hi: That is longiflorum, growing down to sea level in black volcanic soils at Ryu Kyu and Okinawa.Regards _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Fri May 13 17:23:57 2005 Message-Id: <002b01c55802$108815e0$b5ec403e@John> From: Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:23:31 +0100 The most southerly Lilium species is L. neilgherrense from the Nilgiri Hills of south-western India, somewhere about 11-12 degrees North of the equator. It is a big-flowered white trumpet species, but I don't know if its is cultivation. Next most southerly is probably L. philippinense from the mountains of north-central Luzon, about 16 deg N. It is pure white with a very long tube to the flower. It is closely related to L. formosanum & like it can flower within the year from seed. It is not very hardy in the UK, as it keeps pushing up new growths, but is very easy in a pot in the greenhouse. The southern Japanese species L. longiflorum, L. nobilissimum & L. alexandrae are also suitable for warm conditions. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- Original Message ----- From: "arnold trachtenberg" Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs > Jane: > > I can't tell you where I read it but it seems lilies are strictly ( > naturally occurring) a northern hemisphere genus. I would also be > interested in how close to the equator lilies occur naturally. > > Arnold > From lwallpe@juno.com Fri May 13 17:42:03 2005 Message-Id: <20050513.144047.1804.1065@webmail12.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Dichelostemma Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 21:40:15 GMT List Members: I'm looking for a little information/advice on Dichelostemma 'Pink Diamond' and d. ida-maia and not finding much. I purchased and planted bulbs last fall from Brent & Becky's Bulbs. Listed as hardy in USDA zones 5-8 and blooming late spring, native to Western U.S./California. I am in zone 6a, Cincinnati, Ohio. Lots of foliage appeared this spring but I see no flower spikes coming on. Should I not expect bloom this early, do they need a year or two to settle in? Thanks for any information! Linda Wallpe ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! From Nancy.Gilbert@beale.af.mil Fri May 13 17:56:55 2005 Message-Id: <200505132306.j4DN6K8V008728@bab-ds-beale2.beale.af.mil> From: "Gilbert Nancy L Contr 9 CES/CEC" Subject: Dichelostemma Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 14:59:37 -0700 Linda, We grow both types in our nursery and they are just now producing flower spikes/buds (Zone 7b, Grass Valley, CA). I don't expect to see flowers for at least a week. This has been a cold wet spring here so we are a little slow this year. In my experience, it is not uncommon for CA. native bulbs to settle in a season before they bloom. I bought some D. 'Pink Diamond' from the same supplier a few years back and some bloomed the first year while others waited till their second year to bloom. Also, you could be over doing the nitrogen in your soil and or perhaps be a bit low in potassium or other nutrients. Are they planted in a shady or sunny location-this will influence blooming and dates. Regards, Nancy Gilbert -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of lwallpe@juno.com Sent: Friday, May 13, 2005 2:40 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Dichelostemma List Members: I'm looking for a little information/advice on Dichelostemma 'Pink Diamond' and d. ida-maia and not finding much. I purchased and planted bulbs last fall from Brent & Becky's Bulbs. Listed as hardy in USDA zones 5-8 and blooming late spring, native to Western U.S./California. I am in zone 6a, Cincinnati, Ohio. Lots of foliage appeared this spring but I see no flower spikes coming on. Should I not expect bloom this early, do they need a year or two to settle in? Thanks for any information! Linda Wallpe ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri May 13 18:58:22 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050513155428.0108df40@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 15:58:21 -0700 Arnold asked, >Jane: > >I can't tell you where I read it but it seems lilies are strictly ( >naturally occurring) a northern hemisphere genus. I would also be >interested in how close to the equator lilies occur naturally. True, the genus is restricted to the Northern Hemisphere. I believe the most wild population closest to the Equator is L. wallichianum var. neilgherrense, which is reported to grow in southern India near 10 degrees north latitude. However, it grows at 1830 to 2600 meters elevation in the Nilgiri Hills, so like the southern California species, it's probably accustomed at least to cool nights. Jane McGary From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri May 13 19:20:53 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$13ml0v@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:20:52 -0400 Darren, here's another suggestion for lilies in Mexico: try the so-called LA or longiflorum-Asiatic hybrids. These are hybrids with Lilium longiflorum and Asiatic hybrid (not to be confused with oriental hybrid) lilies in their background. In some, the Lilium longiflorum influence is not obvious at all, in others it is more apparent. I'm suggesting this group in particular because some of them evidently have a very slight chill requirement. They also look like typical commercial cut-flower lilies (unlike some of the other lilies suggested, which suggest funerals). This discussion of lilies in Mexico reminds me of a question I've been meaning to ask. Lilies of the Lilium pardalinum group are known to grow far south into California - historically right down to the Mexican border apparently. Does anyone know if any member of the genus Lilium is native to/grows wild in northern Mexico - or has in recent times? And now that we're on the topic of Lilium pardalinum, let me get one more thing off my chest. How many of you have noticed that some catalogs spell this name pardelinum? I've often wondered if that is because they know that they are not selling the true Lilium pardalinum and instead are selling one of the once literally myriad (and now almost entirely lost or forgotten) pardalinum hybrids. One more lily story: several years ago I was in Bangalore, India. Bangalore is in southern India, not far from Mysore, one of the old centers of British interests in India. The Nilgiri Hills were not too far off - as the crow flies, it was about 125 miles to Ootacamund, one of the well known sites for Lilium neilgherrense, and the whole time I was there I could not get Lilium neilgherrense out of my mind. When I told an Indian friend about this, she suggested that I hire a taxi cab for the weekend and head over. I never made it, and I still regret it. As I was typing this, Jane's email arrived: so it's now Lilium wallichianum neilgherrense! Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, UDS, USDA zone 7, where Lilium pardalinum, while not happy, at least persists. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri May 13 20:01:03 2005 Message-Id: <994a2b7613611ec8eb6d0b6cb093b845@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 17:01:02 -0700 Once again, the amazing expertise of those on this list for all things geophytic has been made apparent once again. Having a keen interest in finding which lilies will grow in warm weather locations, from conversations some years ago (probably on the IBS list), I learned that LL. longiflorum, formosanum, and philippinense were native to basically tropical areas and should therefore grow well in Southern California and Central Texas (my two main areas of interest). Even though they seem fairly similar, they have a good scent and they do appear to do well here. Then I discovered the L.A. (Longiflorum-Asiatic) hybrids that Jim mentions. There are quite a few of them available these days, but I am suspicious about what percentage of L. and what percentage of A. any given cultivar is because some of them do very well and come back each year, but others only bloom the first year and then disappear for me. (So I suspect that some may be backcrossed to Oriental lilies and are only 25% or less longiflorum.) I have also discovered that the Trumpet and Aurelian lilies also do well here for the most part. I'm now trying the Orienpet hybrids to see how they do. L. candidum also does well here, and I think I got a longiflorum-candidum hybrid (or something like that) and we'll see how that does. Now, however, I read that there are other species from tropical and subtropical areas. (L. nobilissimum & L. alexandrae & L. wallichianum var. neilgherrense) Thanks to those experts among you for listing some of them. Of course, they appear to be rarer than the three I already knew about. So the question arises yet again: Whence are they available? Mail order nurseries, seed suppliers, plant organization seed exchanges, etc.? Also, having been numerous times to Honshu, Japan in their summers and a couple of times to southern China in their summer, it is very very warm and humid there at that time. Might those places also have native Lily species that could either take or even enjoy a similar kind of weather in Texas or the southern states of the U.S.? And what might some of those species be? And are there any other hybrids between the warm weather species that are on the horizon? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 13, 2005, at 4:20 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Darren, here's another suggestion for lilies in Mexico: try the > so-called LA > or longiflorum-Asiatic hybrids. These are hybrids with Lilium > longiflorum > and Asiatic hybrid (not to be confused with oriental hybrid) lilies in > their > background. In some, the Lilium longiflorum influence is not obvious > at all, > in others it is more apparent. I'm suggesting this group in particular > because some of them evidently have a very slight chill requirement. > They > also look like typical commercial cut-flower lilies (unlike some of the > other lilies suggested, which suggest funerals). > > One more lily story: several years ago I was in Bangalore, India. > Bangalore > is in southern India, not far from Mysore, one of the old centers of > British > interests in India. The Nilgiri Hills were not too far off - as the > crow > flies, it was about 125 miles to Ootacamund, one of the well known > sites for > Lilium neilgherrense, and the whole time I was there I could not get > Lilium > neilgherrense out of my mind. When I told an Indian friend about this, > she > suggested that I hire a taxi cab for the weekend and head over. I > never made > it, and I still regret it. > > As I was typing this, Jane's email arrived: so it's now Lilium > wallichianum > neilgherrense! From c-mueller@tamu.edu Fri May 13 20:06:03 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:05:31 -0500 Darren: You could probably get seeds through the PBS seed exchange of L. formosanum. I know that here in Texas every seed that hits the ground comes up - they can be flowering inside one year's time. Blooming time for these lilies hasn't arrived yet. Cynthia W. Mueller College Station, TX >>> darrensage100@hotmail.com 05/13/05 3:31 PM >>> Thank you for the advice. Anybody know anyone supplying seeds/bulbs that I can get into Mexico? Darren >From: "Alberto Castillo" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:05 +0000 > > >Hi: > There are mainly two species that will grow like weeds in such a warm >environment, longiflorum and formosanum. They may well reach flowering size >in two seasons from seed but they will do really well in acidic soils. >Lilium davidi and L . regale may adapt to heat as a number of the oriental >hybrids swarms, those that are forced in greenhouses for the cut flower >trade. All of them will be indifferent to winter rains if well drained but >will demand spring, summer and autumn watering. >Regards >Alberto > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 20:24:16 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:24:15 +0000 Thank you Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. longiflorum? Or do you know who does? Darren >From: "Alberto Castillo" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:46:32 +0000 > > > >>From: "Darren Sage" >>Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >>To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >>Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:22 +0000 >> >>I understand that one at least occurs in tropical areas south of Japan. >>Possibily L. Formosum? >> >>Darren > >Hi: > That is longiflorum, growing down to sea level in black volcanic soils >at Ryu Kyu and Okinawa.Regards > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 20:26:29 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:26:27 +0000 Thank you John. Does anybody have seeds or corms of these they could export to Mexico? Kind regards Darren >From: >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lily seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:23:31 +0100 > >The most southerly Lilium species is L. neilgherrense from the Nilgiri >Hills >of south-western India, somewhere about 11-12 degrees North of the equator. >It is a big-flowered white trumpet species, but I don't know if its is >cultivation. Next most southerly is probably L. philippinense from the >mountains of north-central Luzon, about 16 deg N. It is pure white with a >very long tube to the flower. It is closely related to L. formosanum & like >it can flower within the year from seed. It is not very hardy in the UK, as >it keeps pushing up new growths, but is very easy in a pot in the >greenhouse. > >The southern Japanese species L. longiflorum, L. nobilissimum & L. >alexandrae are also suitable for warm conditions. > >John Grimshaw > > >Dr John M. Grimshaw >Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > >Sycamore Cottage >Colesbourne >Nr Cheltenham >Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > >Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk >----- Original Message ----- >From: "arnold trachtenberg" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs > > > > Jane: > > > > I can't tell you where I read it but it seems lilies are strictly ( > > naturally occurring) a northern hemisphere genus. I would also be > > interested in how close to the equator lilies occur naturally. > > > > Arnold > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 20:51:09 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 00:51:07 +0000 Thank you Jane. Lilies are popular as cut flowers here for special occasions. I have to assume they are imported from the mainlaand. I see my neighbour has a clump of white flowering lilies out now and they look well established. They are in full sun at least half the day. I will ask her what she thinks they are. Thank you all for you help on this topic. Please keep the info coming. Kind regards Darren >From: "Jim McKenney" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >Subject: RE: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:20:52 -0400 > > >Darren, here's another suggestion for lilies in Mexico: try the so-called >LA >or longiflorum-Asiatic hybrids. These are hybrids with Lilium longiflorum >and Asiatic hybrid (not to be confused with oriental hybrid) lilies in >their >background. In some, the Lilium longiflorum influence is not obvious at >all, >in others it is more apparent. I'm suggesting this group in particular >because some of them evidently have a very slight chill requirement. They >also look like typical commercial cut-flower lilies (unlike some of the >other lilies suggested, which suggest funerals). > > >This discussion of lilies in Mexico reminds me of a question I've been >meaning to ask. > >Lilies of the Lilium pardalinum group are known to grow far south into >California - historically right down to the Mexican border apparently. > >Does anyone know if any member of the genus Lilium is native to/grows wild >in northern Mexico - or has in recent times? > >And now that we're on the topic of Lilium pardalinum, let me get one more >thing off my chest. How many of you have noticed that some catalogs spell >this name pardelinum? I've often wondered if that is because they know that >they are not selling the true Lilium pardalinum and instead are selling one >of the once literally myriad (and now almost entirely lost or forgotten) >pardalinum hybrids. > >One more lily story: several years ago I was in Bangalore, India. Bangalore >is in southern India, not far from Mysore, one of the old centers of >British >interests in India. The Nilgiri Hills were not too far off - as the crow >flies, it was about 125 miles to Ootacamund, one of the well known sites >for >Lilium neilgherrense, and the whole time I was there I could not get Lilium >neilgherrense out of my mind. When I told an Indian friend about this, she >suggested that I hire a taxi cab for the weekend and head over. I never >made >it, and I still regret it. > >As I was typing this, Jane's email arrived: so it's now Lilium wallichianum >neilgherrense! > >Jim McKenney >jimmckenney@starpower.net >Montgomery County, Maryland, UDS, USDA zone 7, where Lilium pardalinum, >while not happy, at least persists. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From leo1010@attglobal.net Fri May 13 22:29:40 2005 Message-Id: <42855393.2070902@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89 Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:25:39 -0600 In 1974 I was a student at the University of California at Irvine, majoring in Biological Sciences. Fall quarter I took Biology 101A, Evolutionary Biology. The instructor was Professor Harold Koopowitz. He mentioned one day bulbous plants, and specifically the daffodil King Alfred. To the best of my recollection (which means all errors are mine, not those of Dr. Koopowitz) he stated, "King Alfred was introduced in 1898. It was surpassed in 1899." Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri May 13 21:58:55 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$10u3os@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 21:58:53 -0400 Lee asked: "Now, however, I read that there are other species from tropical and subtropical areas. (L. nobilissimum & L. alexandrae & L. wallichianum var. neilgherrense) ...So the question arises yet again: Whence are they available? Mail order nurseries, seed suppliers, plant organization seed exchanges, etc.?" Lilium alexandrae appeared on the Seed Exchange list of the North American Lily Society this year; the seed had been donated by Ed McRae. These probably went quickly - I didn't get any! Nor is L. nobilissimum offered often - offhand I don't remember seeing it offered at all recently, although I have not gone back through old seed lists to check. I've never seen Lilium wallichianum neilgherrense offered in any form (i.e. bulbs or seed) - and as John Grimshaw suggested in an earlier posting of this thread, it may not be in cultivation. Lilium w. wallichianum is available, but this is a species from far northern India, not a tropical form. I've tried it twice, and failed both times. That may have been partly because of the dubious quality of commercial stock available to me: the bulbs arrived badly dried. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the Nilgiri lily is right at the top of my lily "want list". From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri May 13 22:10:08 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$10u60r@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:10:01 -0400 Lee mentioned Lilium philippinense. Can anyone confirm that this species is in cultivation? Although I have seen plants labeled Lilium philippinense at lily shows, I'm pretty sure the plants I've seen are Lilium formosanum, not L. philippinense. That there would be confusion is not surprising: Lilium formosanum was long known as Lilium philippinense formosanum. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where several dozen seedling Lilium formosanum are coming along in a cold frame. From khixson@nu-world.com Fri May 13 22:35:56 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20050513193119.02858ae0@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: Dichelostemma Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:35:42 -0700 Linda Dichlostemma- >Lots of foliage appeared this spring but I see no flower spikes coming >on. Should I not expect bloom this early, do they need a year or two to >settle in? Here in western (Zone 7)) I don't expect flowers before early or even mid-June. The foliage arrives early, the flower stems do not appear until the leaves are about to die down, which seems to be a typical growth habit for western american bulbs. Patience, darn it, patience. Ken From msittner@mcn.org Fri May 13 22:43:59 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050513192404.02944500@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: New Cyrtanthus pictures Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:37:51 -0700 Hi All, There are a lot of new Cyrtanthus pictures on the wiki. Cameron McMaster sent me some new ones of winter rainfall species, including some rare ones and I added pictures of some of the summer rainfall species from the Eastern Cape that he had on his CD including the one that is named after him. There are too many to list. Just look for pictures from Cameron to find the new ones. Also can anyone verify the names used by Bill Dijk for a couple of his pictures and if so supply some information about them: Cyrtanthus capensis Cyrtanthus glaucophyllus Paul, are you out there? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyrtanthus Between Cameron and Bill we now have a lot of good information and pictures of this genus on the wiki. Mary Sue From khixson@nu-world.com Fri May 13 22:40:52 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20050513193617.028581b0@mail.nu-world.com> From: Kenneth Hixson Subject: L wallichianum Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:40:45 -0700 Jim Mckenney wrote >I've never seen Lilium wallichianum neilgherrense offered in any form (i.e. >bulbs or seed) I've grown L wallichianum twice from seed from the lily society seed exchange, and both times it proved to be L formosanum/phillipinense. Caution, and knowing who the donor is, might be wise. Then, when it flowers, key it out to see if it is true. Ken From msittner@mcn.org Fri May 13 22:52:07 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050513193958.02939830@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Dichelostemma Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 19:45:22 -0700 Dear Linda, Like Nancy, my Dichelostemma ida-maia is just now forming flowering stalks. Last week I thought not many were going to bloom and this week I have quite a few appearing. Actually most of my native bulbs are now blooming or will soon be. Every day a few more open. We've had nice late rain so I still have green leaves on some of these plants, but one weather report says except for a small chance of rain next week our rainy season may be finished until the season starts again some time in the fall. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From lwallpe@juno.com Fri May 13 22:50:29 2005 Message-Id: <20050513.194932.14503.3907@webmail10.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Dichelostemma Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 02:48:39 GMT Nancy - Thanks for the advice! It has been a cold wet spring here also. My daffodils bloomed 3-4 weeks later than normal. To answer your questions, they are in semi-shade, receiving sun for about 3 hours 11-2 PM and another hour at about 6 PM. I don't think it's a nutrient problem. They are planted with daffodils, so when and if I fertilize, I use something like 6-24-24 and occasionally throw fireplace ashes down on the beds. Patience may be the answer. Linda Wallpe <.... you could be over doing the nitrogen in your soil and or perhaps be a bit low in potassium or other nutrients. Are they planted in a shady or sunny location-this will influence blooming and dates.>> ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! From c-mueller@tamu.edu Fri May 13 23:04:42 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:04:13 -0500 Dear Darren, Last year plants from an old patch of "easter lilies" growing at a friend's home in Navasota, Texas set some seeds and I was able to grow them into plants. Too soon to see flowers. If there are seeds again this year, I can send you some. Cynthia Mueller College Station TX >>> darrensage100@hotmail.com 05/13/05 7:24 PM >>> Thank you Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. longiflorum? Or do you know who does? Darren >From: "Alberto Castillo" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:46:32 +0000 > > > >>From: "Darren Sage" >>Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >>To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >>Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:22 +0000 >> >>I understand that one at least occurs in tropical areas south of Japan. >>Possibily L. Formosum? >> >>Darren > >Hi: > That is longiflorum, growing down to sea level in black volcanic soils >at Ryu Kyu and Okinawa.Regards > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Fri May 13 23:52:29 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 03:52:27 +0000 Yes plaese! Please let me know when you have some. Kind regards Darren >From: "Cynthia Mueller" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 22:04:13 -0500 > >Dear Darren, > >Last year plants from an old patch of "easter lilies" growing at a friend's >home in Navasota, Texas set some seeds and I was able to grow them into >plants. Too soon to see flowers. If there are seeds again this year, I >can send you some. > >Cynthia Mueller >College Station TX > > >>> darrensage100@hotmail.com 05/13/05 7:24 PM >>> >Thank you > >Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. >longiflorum? > >Or do you know who does? > >Darren > > >From: "Alberto Castillo" > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs > >Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:46:32 +0000 > > > > > > > >>From: "Darren Sage" > >>Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >>To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >>Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs > >>Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 20:29:22 +0000 > >> > >>I understand that one at least occurs in tropical areas south of Japan. > >>Possibily L. Formosum? > >> > >>Darren > > > >Hi: > > That is longiflorum, growing down to sea level in black volcanic soils > >at Ryu Kyu and Okinawa.Regards > > > >_________________________________________________________________ > >MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat May 14 02:41:58 2005 Message-Id: <002601c55850$050615c0$eae0403e@John> From: Subject: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil - Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:27:23 +0100 Leo Martin's recollections of Harold Koopowitz's comments on the rapid supercession of 'King Alfred' prompt me to suggest that there a great many plants 'out there' in general cultivation that have long been superseded by better cultivars but which for one reason or another hang on in the catalogues/books. One is ease of propagation, as some clones multiply much better than others and can easily be mass-produced where 'better' ones are more difficult. Another, and also very potent reason, is emotion. The success of 'King Alfred' must surely be due in part to the name, which has a great appeal to all Anglo-Saxons. One can think of other examples: the Rose 'Peace' for example, or Astrantia 'Ruby Wedding', both superseded in their groups in technical terms, but retaining a high place in the public's view. We must not forget marketing either! Michael Jefferson-Brown in his book 'Daffodils' says of 'King Alfred': In 1899...100 bulbs were sold for over £5 each - the total would have bought a street of houses. %0 years in the limelight embedded its name in the public consciousness to such an extent that it is still used as a label to sell many later-raised kinds. despite this huge advance it was not always the easiest of plants to grow.' John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat May 14 02:41:59 2005 Message-Id: <002701c55850$060eac20$eae0403e@John> From: Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:35:33 +0100 From: "Jim McKenney" > Lee mentioned Lilium philippinense. > > Can anyone confirm that this species is in cultivation? Certainly - I grow it and I'm not alone. My current batch of seedlings is from South African-grown seed and a previous lot came from Australia (the bulbs of these died & I hadn't saved seed). I know that true L. philippinense is also grown by other English gardeners, having seen it in other gardens. It is very distinct, with a tremendously long, narrow, pure white tube and relatively narrow 'face' to the open flower: L. formosanum has a shorter tube, usually stained reddish-pinkish-brown and the flower opens more widely. The plant body of L. philippinense is different in appearing a much greener colour - it lacks the red pigments that stain the growth of L. formosanum et al. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat May 14 02:42:01 2005 Message-Id: <002801c55850$075a17e0$eae0403e@John> From: Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:36:46 +0100 Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. > longiflorum? > These are easily available in wholesale quantities from commercial operations in The Netherlands, or Hadeco in South Africa. Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat May 14 02:42:03 2005 Message-Id: <002901c55850$088fffd0$eae0403e@John> From: Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:41:30 +0100 Lee Poulsen wrote: Also, having been numerous times to Honshu, Japan in their summers and > a couple of times to southern China in their summer, it is very very > warm and humid there at that time. Might those places also have native > Lily species that could either take or even enjoy a similar kind of > weather in Texas or the southern states of the U.S.? And what might > some of those species be? What about Llilium brownii? That is a southern Chinese species, very unsatisfactory in the UK. John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From pollards@adelphia.net Sat May 14 11:30:45 2005 Message-Id: <528054.1116084645033.JavaMail.root@web2.mail.adelphia.net> From: Subject: Lilies Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 11:30:45 -0400 Dear all, Just to add my two cents' worth on hot-climate-lily discussion. The older gardens here in Yuma are full of old, established clumps of what appears to be Lilium longiflorum. They have been blooming up a storm for the past month and appear to be going dormant now. That's not too unusual; a lot of "warm-season" plants (like sunflowers) grow during our cooler winters. I've been reading how many commercial lilies like the Easter lily are irretrievably virused. These plants don't seem to have any of the telltale streaking and are quite floriferous, although rather short. Plants that aren't tough and vigorous don't usually survive our summers, whether dormant or not. Shawn Pollard Yuma, AZ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat May 14 12:46:01 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 16:45:59 +0000 >From: >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lily seeds and bulbs >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:36:46 +0100 > >Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. > > longiflorum? > > >These are easily available in wholesale quantities from commercial >operations in The Netherlands, or Hadeco in South Africa. > > >Dr John M. Grimshaw >Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Hi: Sounds like a great suggestion. HADECO has very high quality standards. Getting bulbs or plants INTO mexico will be a nightmare. I know people that even with heaps of documents, permits, and the like saw the plants seized and destroyed. Customs people simply ignored their own country's regulations. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ MSN Amor: busca tu ½ naranja http://latam.msn.com/amor/ From eob@peak.org Sat May 14 14:02:20 2005 Message-Id: From: "Ernie O'Byrne" Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 11:02:17 -0700 This suggestion comes with no value judgement attached whatsoever, because social customs and morays vary considerably over the planet, but perhaps a suggestion of some sort of "consideration" might help things through customs in Mexico? Ernie O'Byrne Northwest Garden Nursery 86813 Central Road Eugene, ORegon 97402 USA USDA Z. 7B Hi: Sounds like a great suggestion. HADECO has very high quality standards. Getting bulbs or plants INTO mexico will be a nightmare. I know people that even with heaps of documents, permits, and the like saw the plants seized and destroyed. Customs people simply ignored their own country's regulations. Regards Alberto From john@floralarchitecture.com Sat May 14 14:12:07 2005 Message-Id: <20050514181207.67945.qmail@web50105.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Winter survival report Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 11:12:07 -0700 (PDT) I'm now in OH and there are several bulb surprises for me. I have Hippeastrums sprouting in 2 locations. Labels somehow left over the winter for a warmer safari but the bulbs are still there. They are either the 'Yellow Goddess' (?) from Brent and Becky's or x Johnsonii. I'm rather hoping for the yellow but I will assume that it is the xJohnsonii. Also, this is the first year that I have had Frit. imperalis not only sprout but also flower. Now, if I can just get them back for next year. I have another Frit that came out and bloomed but I don't have my notes with me to know which one. It came from Jane, maybe she could access her notes. It is a single bloomed flower, color long since gone but it did flower. Again, if I can just get it to return. Ipheion 'Alberto Castillo' is still blooming. These were planted last fall. I'm glad to see these are hardy. Some tulips that have returned after several years are: Green Artist Blushing Beauty Carnival de Nice President Kennedy The hyacinth 'Woodstock' (also from Brent and Becky's) bloomed just as beautifully this year as last (so I have been told). I have about 5 Trillium grandiflorum that are blooming. I was hoping that there would be more as I planted about 15 over the past 2 years but, I'll take 5. They will slowly increase. I guess they are the hardy ones for my site and would fare better in the long run anyway. Bletilla chinensis are all sprouting. Actually, colonizing would be a better term. They are coming up everywhere. Allium flavum (from Mark) have sprouted. I am doubtful that I will see the blooms as I will be long gone when they will appear but I'm glad they are doing well. Liatris have finally started in increase well. It has take a while for them to get established. I have 2-3 species and a hybrid selection. Lilium 'African Queen' has struggled for the first several years but now (year 4) it is 5 strong stems in a cluster that look like they could be bamboo. I'm hoping for the 7' towering stems that I know they can achieve. None of the peonies are open here but there are a ton of buds on very strong plants. I have a few that have really twisted and contorted leaves this year. I fear the worse and assume that I will have to remove them from the collection. Any thoughts Jim W what they could be suffering from? I bought many species last fall from Appalachian Alpines and they all are out. I would not expect blooms for at least 3 years as they are just small seedlings. The tree peonies look like they will not open for another 2 weeks maybe. I hope it will stay warm nd moist to push them. Not one iris is open save for a mini bearded type that I put in last fall. Everything else is either just sprouted or no where near spiking. Oh well. I did see that the reticulatas have bloomed earlier in the year. I have a lot of Lycoris foliage from radiata and several other species. It doesn't look like aurea returned but I only did a quick once through yesterday when I arrived. I hope to have more to report in the next day or so. OT: the palm species (needles and Sabal minor) have all returned with minor tip burn for the 5th spring (4 winters) and the Sarracineas are sprouting and one even has a flower spike formed. I'm pretty happy about that. Time will tell if the Hesperaloe, Dahlia, and Hedychium will return. They always spout later in the year. There was a Zephyranthes candida clump that made it through last winter and bloomed in the late summer. I am hoping for the same. Yesterday while at a nursery, I found a pot of Gazanias in with the perennials. It listed it as "Hardy Gazania" and rated it as z4. I will be getting a few of these to try out you can be sure of that. Anything that I can get to replace the coreopsis that are over running middle America is fine with me. Speaking of America, I have a peony by that name and it is in glorious form this year, good dark leaves, lots of buds and held firm in the rains. My uncle put the canna and Brugmansia that were on the patio in pots into the garage over the winter, covered them with heavy clear plastic and a double light bulb lamp. Well, the Brug only died back a little. It is sprouting from 4' above the pot and also the base. The canna fared just as well. They are all coming out from the bottom. So, Canna 'Australia' is a tough little rhizome that can withstand quite a bit of cold. The Asparagus sprengerii is also sprouted and nearly all green again. The Yucca elephantipes (common indoor yucca from mass marketers) stayed evergreen all winter and other than a few lower leaves with brown tips probably from lack of moisture, it looks perfect. I will write more when I have time to do a better inspection. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com check it out Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat May 14 14:28:59 2005 Message-Id: <42864369.4050605@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 14:28:57 -0400 Speaking of lilium brownii, I believe I may have one from Chen Yi that was mislabeled as many of her bulbs are. I have been growing her for three years and now has put up two stems. I have not been able to find a reliable way to identify some Chinese lilies such as L. sargentiae and L. sulpherum. If anyone can help with a differential description I would be most appreciative. Arnold New Jersey From piabinha@yahoo.com Sat May 14 21:47:30 2005 Message-Id: <20050515014730.92716.qmail@web51905.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Gloxinia aff. purpurascens Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 18:47:29 -0700 (PDT) dear friends, last year or so, i gave up on growing this plant, apparently from the brazilian amazon region, and i sent all the rhizomes to dell sherk to distribute through the PBS exchange. of course, right after i do that, i have someone i know tell me he's looking for that plant. so i'm writing to: see if anyone has any luck blooming this plant; and whether anyone can send me a few rhizomes back. if you can provide a pic of it in bloom, that'd be appreciated too. thank you all. tsuh yang __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From msittner@mcn.org Sun May 15 11:42:12 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050515080536.02a420c0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Tropaeolum success Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 08:35:43 -0700 Dear All, We had a thread a number of years ago about geophytes that could be grown from seed to flower in a short time. I believe Diane Whitehead was keeping track. I have obtained seed of Tropaeolum a few times over the years as I am fascinated by it. Unfortunately I don't seem to be able to grow most of them very well even when I purchase them from someone else. The one exception is T. tricolor/tricolorum (there is no agreement about which spelling) which most years is a delight. I have germinated seed of Tropaeolum on occasion, but even then lost it later. I had no luck with some T. azureum seed that a kind friend from the UK gave me last fall. I was so disappointed. Anyone with successful methods for growing this from seed please speak up. So it was with low expectations that I sowed T. brachyceras that I was lucky enough to get from the NARGS seed exchange this year. I sowed it late January outside in a spot protected from the rain in a small, but deep plastic container. One seed came up a month later. The seedlings of these are so fragile looking. I moved it to my greenhouse for more protection and it started to grow well. I realize it was going to need something to grow on so I added an ornamental stake (the pot was so tiny it had to be something small). It grew up and around this and I had to rewind it when it reached the top. Eventually it discovered a Phaedranassa flowering stalk not too far away and while I was gone for a week wound around it. To my surprise it has been blooming now for a couple of weeks so that's 4 1/2 months from seed. I find it a small miracle. I think the seed may have come from Jane so thank you. I'm now wondering if I need to grow the ones I have in my greenhouse if I want to get them to bloom. Maybe I'd have better luck. Has anyone in our group figured out a successful way to grow Tropaeolums from seed? Does the time you start them matter? Clifton suggested day length may have some effect on T. azureum. Does the seed need to be soaked first? Obviously a bigger pot would be helpful. Thanks in advance for any help. Mary Sue From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun May 15 13:51:28 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050515104038.010dce28@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Tropaeolum success Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 10:51:24 -0700 Mary Sue wrote: >I have germinated seed of Tropaeolum on occasion, but even then lost it >later. I had no luck with some T. azureum seed that a kind friend from the >UK gave me last fall. I was so disappointed. Anyone with successful >methods for growing this from seed please speak up. > >So it was with low expectations that I sowed T. brachyceras that I was >lucky enough to get from the NARGS seed exchange this year. I'm now >wondering if I need to grow the ones I have in my greenhouse if I want to >get them to bloom. Maybe I'd have better luck. Has anyone in our group >figured out a successful way to grow Tropaeolums from seed? Does the time >you start them matter? Clifton suggested day length may have some effect >on T. azureum. Does the seed need to be soaked first? I believe the seeds in the NARGS exchange did come from my plants and am glad they found such a good home. I've just been collecting some more seeds from the same plants so there may be a few available. The seeds have a fleshy aril which must be attractive to ants, because volunteer seedlings are popping up here and there in the bulb frames. I'll let them grow another year or two before harvesting them, even though, as Mary Sue mentioned, they are eager to seize on anything nearby and climb it. It's not unusual for this and some other Tropaeolum species to flower very young. I've grown T. azureum from seed but lost it after two years. I may have let it dry out too much. When I saw it in the wild, it was growing near the base of a big cliff among tall shrubs (protection from goats, no doubt). Even though the area is very dry, I think there was moisture seeping through in that area. The seed is notorious for erratic germination. In fact, I think most Tropaeolum seed is unpredictable. This year I got good germination from T. tricolorum and hope it is from an inland population rather than coastal. The forms in commerce are not very cold-hardy and I have lost them at about 20 F, but I've seen it growing just below melting snow in the Andes as well as within sight of the Pacific. I have also grown T. hookerianum and T. incisum from Flores & Watson seed collections. T. hookerianum is proving very slow, perhaps it's a bit cold for it in the bulb frame, but it has been there 5 years. T. incisum lay dormant for a year after repotting from the seed pot -- another peculiar behavior of this tuberous genus, so don't throw away pots that show no activity for a year or even two! Now T. incisum is about a foot long; it starts into growth later in the season than the others. My friend David Hale grew T. polyphyllum for years in a half wine barrel which he moves indoors in winter. It hangs over the sides of the barrel and looks very attractive. I do find T. brachyceras the easiest to grow of all the small species, and it is quite cold-hardy, growing and flowering without a check right through temperatures down to 20 F in the bulb frame. I put one outdoors last summer to see what it would do, but it didn't come up; however, I hope it may just be resting, as mentioned above. In Mary Sue's garden, this species should be fine outdoors. It doesn't need to be totally dry in summer, either. It is a delicate-looking climber with a great many bright yellow flowers. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From totototo@pacificcoast.net Sun May 15 22:13:44 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Tropaeolum success Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 19:24:31 -0800 On 15 May 05 at 8:35, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > ...Has anyone in our group figured out a successful way > to grow Tropaeolums from seed? I have successfully grown T. polyphyllum from seed. For the life of me, though, I can't tell what if anything the magic touch was. IIRC they were subjected to my usual regimen for hardy things: sown and the pot parked in a coldframe over the winter. It may be significant that the seed was fresh, off an established plant in my garden; they were probably sown not too long after they were ripe, but sowing may have been delayed until winter. These seedlings have been grown on in very large pots and I will get flowers this year for the first time, so maybe there will be yet more seed. > Does the time you start them matter? Clifton suggested > day length may have some effect on T. azureum. Does the > seed need to be soaked first? Obviously a bigger pot > would be helpful. I have had reasonable success with *germination* of seed from the exchanges in the past, but I didn't know how to grow them on. I always soak my seed for up to two weeks before sowing. So: it can be done. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon May 16 01:20:09 2005 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Winter survival report Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 00:13:26 -0500 Dear John and all; Similar survival on most of the same as expected. Hipp x johnsonii has gone through a couple of winters here, but has yet to bloom in the ground. Still waiting. >"None of the peonies are open here but there are a ton of buds on >very strong plants. I have a few that have really twisted and >contorted leaves this year. I fear the worse and assume that I will >have to remove them from the collection. Any thoughts Jim W what >they could be suffering from?" Sounds like frost damage to the developing foliage buds. Ignore it and wait until next spring. If it is just a few leaves and it annoys you, cut them off. >I have a lot of Lycoris foliage from radiata and several other >species. It doesn't look like aurea returned L. aurea is the least hardy species and not likely to hardy north of Zone 9 or protected 8. > >Speaking of America, I have a peony by that name and it is in >glorious form this year, good dark leaves, lots of buds and held >firm in the rains. 'America' is one of the very best herbaceous peonies. Wonderful color, held high and glorious. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From toadlily@olywa.net Mon May 16 03:36:30 2005 Message-Id: <42884F8D.6060402@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: A couple of mysteries, and Trillium pictures Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 00:45:17 -0700 I've recently returned from a wonderful trip to Peru (mid-February to mid-March), and have finally gotten pictures of a couple of bulbs onto the mystery bulb page. One I've made a guess as to the genus, but as to the other I'm clueless. Thanks in advance for any help. Also, I've added pictures of two of the western species of trillium, T. parviflorum and T. albidum. The T. parviflorum plants pictured live far to the north of the range of T. albidum, and thus there is no chance of hybridization. The T. albidum pictured, while just beyond the southern end of the range of T. parviflorum, are in habitat where T. parviflorum isn't found, so again are the non-hybridized species. Dave, zone 7A, and to heck with the impending drought, I just wish we had sun for a couple days! The slugs are out feasting at noon, it's so rainy! From davidxvictor-0kwlkA65ssdsfyWba0CXAU5DnZWr34j@mailblocks.com Mon May 16 06:08:49 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Tropaeolum Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 11:06:32 +0100 Hi there Mary Sue, I saw your note about germinating Tropaeolum. I grow quite a few and generally follow Norm Deno's idea on them. He says give them four weeks at 70F, followed by a period at 40F. They then germinate within a few weeks, but need to be kept cool until the stem starts to emerge. Then they can be potted up, but very carefully. They are threadlike and very brittle at that stage. If I have fresh seed from my own plants, then I would probably ignore the above and just plant it in the warm. I grow a number of species not shown on the WIKI. Similarly, with Bomarea. Would you like some photos of them? Best regards, David Victor From cathycraigea@hotmail.com Mon May 16 10:14:09 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Help Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 07:14:07 -0700 Hello all you nice bulbophiles! Anybody out there have Fausto Ceni's snail mail address? Please email me PRIVATELY: CathyCraigEA@hotmail.com Thanks!! Cathy Craig EA From dejager@bulbargence.com Mon May 16 10:35:03 2005 Message-Id: From: Lauw de Jager Subject: Tropaeolum success Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 16:33:29 +0100 Dear all, Tropeaolum tricolor flowers profusely here since the end of february and is now fading out. There are about 40-50 tubers in cultivation and the flowering is very spectacular. But this species has never produced one seed here. It is growing in a shadehall (35%) in a mediterranean climat. T pentaphylum, in full flower now, does produce a limited quantity of seed. I am interested to hear the opinion of the group what can be the problem here. > On 15 May 05 at 8:35, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: >> ...Has anyone in our group figured out a successful way >> to grow Tropaeolums from seed? Lauw de Jager Bulb'Argence Mas d'Argence 30300 Fourques France tel 31(0)466 016 519 fax 0466 011 245 http://www.bulbargence.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon May 16 11:41:59 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050516083828.0108bf20@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Tropaeolum Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 08:41:56 -0700 David Victor wrote, >I saw your note about germinating Tropaeolum. I grow quite a few and >generally follow Norm Deno's idea on them. He says give them four weeks >at 70F, followed by a period at 40F. They then germinate within a few >weeks, but need to be kept cool until the stem starts to emerge. Then >they can be potted up, but very carefully. They are threadlike and very >brittle at that stage. In my experience, a lot of seeds from dry temperate South America germinate best if stored at room temperature (around 70F, that is) over the summer and then planted in fall and exposed to outdoor temperatures (not freezing but quite cool, here) for a month or two. Rather than germinating them as David apparently does, in moist paper towels or some such, I think it's better to plant them in a seed pot right away, because, as he says, the seedling stems are quite fragile. They will grow on happily through the winter, kept in a frost-free location, and go dormant in early summer, one hopes having formed tubers if adequately nourished with liquid fertilizer. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From piabinha@yahoo.com Mon May 16 12:45:25 2005 Message-Id: <20050516164525.90505.qmail@web51907.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Babiana in the news Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 09:45:24 -0700 (PDT) http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2005/05/0504_050405_birdperch.html __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Make Yahoo! your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From davidxvictor-0p25kAzZzsdsMk5w8l+sa4AkEoV9BA/@mailblocks.com Mon May 16 13:19:36 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Tropaeolum Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 18:19:14 +0100 Hi there Jane, Rather than germinating them as >David apparently does, in moist paper towels or some such, I think it's >better to plant them in a seed pot right away, because, as he says, the >seedling stems are quite fragile. I should clarify that, I follow Norm Deno's general rules, but instead of using his paper towels, I put the seeds into a plastic bag containing damp perlite. I find that with the towels, seeds tend to root into the paper, whereas with the perlite there is no problem, it just sticks to the roots. Best regards, David Victor From cathycraigea@hotmail.com Mon May 16 15:09:08 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cathy Craig" Subject: Lewisias Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 12:09:06 -0700 Hi all, My mother is looking for sources to purchase Lewisias. If you know of a source, please email me PRIVATELY: CathyCraigEA@hotmail.com. Thanks!! Cathy Craig EA From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon May 16 17:21:54 2005 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Tropaeolum Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 14:21:50 -0700 Some experiences from a friend who exhibited a pot of T. azureum at a local show, the first time I had seen it other than in pictures: T. azureum - I didn't do anything special or different with it, just kept it dryish during its summer dormancy. Alas the T. azureum died along with everything else 2 winters ago. It was in the cold greenhouse. That year also my T. hookerianum was finally put out of its misery by something, probably a rat? digging it out of the pot it had sat dormant in for 4? years and gobbling it up. The hookerianum had put on good foliar growth the initial year of germination, then never awoke again. I would poke into the soil and find an ever-increasing firm "potato" and hope it would leaf out next season. Definitely never nary a leaf - my irritation accrued each year peering for a sign of sprouting. I mean, what's the point of growing an ornamental plant if it never shows up? still, I hope the rat choked on the tuber. It was about 2 to 3 inches down in its pot. -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From osmani_baullosa@yahoo.com Mon May 16 17:54:34 2005 Message-Id: <20050516215433.99162.qmail@web30513.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Osmani Baullosa Subject: A couple of mysteries, and Trillium pictures Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 14:54:33 -0700 (PDT) Hello Laura and Dave, the pinkish flowers belong to genus Olsynium, probably O. junceum. This I swear... I have just planted mine, yesterday. Hope they come back this winter. About the other discussion: "Success with Tropaeolums", sorry for having not anything to say, though these species come from Chile. It happens that I still don't grow them. Best Regards to all, Osmani Laura & Dave wrote: I've recently returned from a wonderful trip to Peru (mid-February to mid-March), and have finally gotten pictures of a couple of bulbs onto the mystery bulb page. One I've made a guess as to the genus, but as to the other I'm clueless. Thanks in advance for any help. Also, I've added pictures of two of the western species of trillium, T. parviflorum and T. albidum. The T. parviflorum plants pictured live far to the north of the range of T. albidum, and thus there is no chance of hybridization. The T. albidum pictured, while just beyond the southern end of the range of T. parviflorum, are in habitat where T. parviflorum isn't found, so again are the non-hybridized species. Dave, zone 7A, and to heck with the impending drought, I just wish we had sun for a couple days! The slugs are out feasting at noon, it's so rainy! _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Yahoo! Mail Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon May 16 19:41:02 2005 Message-Id: <027c15617cbbe7cc4ca13aea1b4d5c1e@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: A couple of mysteries, and Trillium pictures Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 16:40:58 -0700 Dave, I'm so glad you took photos of that first mystery bulb. I also saw those near Cuzco in mid-February a few years ago. But every single flower was a closed bud. None of them were open, although they looked very iris-like to me. I desperately wanted to see one open, but I guessed they were only open during the part of the day when I wasn't there. Now maybe I can find out what they are. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 16, 2005, at 12:45 AM, Laura & Dave wrote: > I've recently returned from a wonderful trip to Peru (mid-February to > mid-March), and have finally gotten pictures of a couple of bulbs onto > the mystery bulb page. One I've made a guess as to the genus, but as > to the other I'm clueless. Thanks in advance for any help. From eagle85@flash.net Mon May 16 22:02:33 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Hippeastrum intiflorum x Hipp. cybister seeds Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 19:02:30 -0700 I'm looking for a party who is "expert" at germinating Hippeastrum seeds. These are H. intiflorum crossed to H. cybister. I'm certain that there are none out there since H. intiflorum seems to be rather "rare." Is anyone here in the U.S. interest in this "cross"? Doug Westfall From thisisnotgonnawork@yahoo.com Mon May 16 22:07:51 2005 Message-Id: <20050517020751.64160.qmail@web52903.mail.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Hippeastrum intiflorum x Hipp. cybister seeds Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 19:07:51 -0700 (PDT) I am. James Frelichowski I found that water floating works best provided you step them up to vermiculite, then soil. Or just put them into light soil and wait longer for the leaves to appear. IF you have a closed pod, someone can surface sterilize it and then open them in a sterile hood and put them on tissue culture media. Cheers, Douglas Westfall wrote: I'm looking for a party who is "expert" at germinating Hippeastrum seeds. These are H. intiflorum crossed to H. cybister. I'm certain that there are none out there since H. intiflorum seems to be rather "rare." Is anyone here in the U.S. interest in this "cross"? Doug Westfall _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Make Yahoo! your home page From msittner@mcn.org Mon May 16 22:44:37 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050516192851.02958a40@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: New on Wiki Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 19:32:32 -0700 From Cameron McMaster a picture of a small form of Nerine humilis blooming in mass: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Nerine While you are looking at Dave Brastow's pictures on the Mystery page there is an additional plant from Peru, this one a Hippeastrum that David Victor would like help identifying. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs Pictures of Bob Werra's Calochortus that he thinks are hybrids. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CalochortusHybrids From totototo@pacificcoast.net Tue May 17 00:39:58 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Tropaeolum Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 21:50:40 -0800 On 16 May 05 at 8:41, Jane McGary wrote: [n.b. elisions alter the thrust of Jane's remarks] > In my experience, a lot of seeds... germinate best if ... > exposed to outdoor temperatures (not freezing but quite > cool, here) for a month or two. Rather than germinating > them ...in moist paper towels or some such, I think it's > better to plant them in a seed pot right away... IMHO, this is the best way to grow *all* hardy bulbs from seed. We might call it the "let it grow" approach in contrast to the more totalitarian "make it grow" approach favored by so many. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Tue May 17 02:00:18 2005 Message-Id: <004a01c55aa5$a7ee4080$0400a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: New Cyrtanthus pictures Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 17:59:55 +1200 Dear Mary Sue, I'd like to reply to Mary Sue's query, regarding information and verification of the two Cyrtanthus species mentioned below, since I was responsible for downloading the picture on the wiki, which info I should have supplied long ago. Originally the so called Cyrtanthus capensis plant was given to me by Jim Forrest by that name, and with no other information available for the genus Cyrtanthus at that time, never thought much more about it. In hindsight and after some research and reading more about the Cyrtanthus in the "REVIEW OF THE SOUTHERN AFRICAN SPECIES OF CYRTANTHUS" by C.Reid and R.Allen Dyer, (recently acquired) I have doubts about the name of this plant on the wiki. I can't find any information about C. capensis either, even in the review, although Michael Vassar mentioned C.capense in the IBS gallery and Traub (1972) mentioned C.capense as a sub for C. speciosus. I have come to the conclusion that the picture in the wiki under that name is most likely a hybrid of the many C.eucallus crosses Jim Forrest made, and a beautiful colour and texture it turned out. The Cyrtanthus glaucophyllus is really a more robust and larger colour variation form of Cyrtanthus sanguineus, sometimes called Cyrt.sang.var.glaucophyllus, acquired from another South African collector by Jim a long time ago. I have never ever come across this vigorous and exquisite plant before, which is easy to grow and all our plants have come true from seed. Anyway, I will add info for Cyrt.sang.var.glaucophyllus and replace the Cyrtanthus capensis by that name (in the image) with the correct title/name. Tomorrow I will reply to Mary Sue's question about the delightful, but delicate Tropaeolum species, especially the charming species T. azureum, of which I have been reasonably successful in raising and growing from seed. It has been a very busy and sometimes frustrating mail-order season and just finished planting all the bulbs again, which seem to get harder every season. (hmm). Still alive and kicking Bill Dijk PS: please note the change of email address. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mary Sue Ittner" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 2:37 PM > Subject: [pbs] New Cyrtanthus pictures > > >> Hi All, >> >> There are a lot of new Cyrtanthus pictures on the wiki. Cameron McMaster >> sent me some new ones of winter rainfall species, including some rare >> ones >> and I added pictures of some of the summer rainfall species from the >> Eastern Cape that he had on his CD including the one that is named after >> him. There are too many to list. Just look for pictures from Cameron to >> find the new ones. Also can anyone verify the names used by Bill Dijk for >> a couple of his pictures and if so supply some information about them: >> >> Cyrtanthus capensis >> Cyrtanthus glaucophyllus >> >> Paul, are you out there? >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cyrtanthus >> >> Between Cameron and Bill we now have a lot of good information and >> pictures of this genus on the wiki. >> >> Mary Sue >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> >> -- >> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date. >> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. >> Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.6 - Release Date: 6/05/2005 >> >> > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue May 17 10:15:59 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: New on Wiki Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 14:15:58 +0000 >From: Mary Sue Ittner >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: [pbs] New on Wiki >Date: Mon, 16 May 2005 19:32:32 -0700 > From Cameron McMaster a picture of a small form of Nerine humilis blooming >in mass: >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Nerine > >While you are looking at Dave Brastow's pictures on the Mystery page there >is an additional plant from Peru, this one a Hippeastrum that David Victor >would like help identifying. >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > >Pictures of Bob Werra's Calochortus that he thinks are hybrids. >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CalochortusHybrids > Hi Mary Sue: David's blue irid is Hesperoxiphion herrerae. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ From dkramb@badbear.com Tue May 17 10:30:10 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050517102844.01d3faf0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: New on Wiki Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 10:30:09 -0400 >>While you are looking at Dave Brastow's pictures on the Mystery page >>there is an additional plant from Peru, this one a Hippeastrum that David >>Victor would like help identifying. >>http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs >> > David's blue irid is Hesperoxiphion herrerae. >Regards >Alberto Hmmm.... looks exactly like an Alophia to me, but I am only familiar with Alophia drummondii from USA. Do you know what separates the two genera? Dennis in Cincy From eagle85@flash.net Tue May 17 12:13:56 2005 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: New Question Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 09:13:54 -0700 Any suggestions on germinating seeds of Bulbine alveolata? It is a LONG blooming, very attractive miniature. Doug From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue May 17 17:41:53 2005 Message-Id: <428A651E.10207@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: cardiocrinum giganteum Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 17:41:50 -0400 Here is the first image of the cardiocrinum taken with the new camera. I hope to post images of the progress of the plant to blooming. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cardiocrinum Arnold New Jersey From merrill@gamblegarden.org Tue May 17 17:57:05 2005 Message-Id: <20050517215704.D8F543C5F6@cmlapp25.siteprotect.com> From: "Merrill Jensen" Subject: cardiocrinum giganteum Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 14:57:24 -0700 Wow, that is some of the best looking foliage that I've seen on Cardiocrinum. Either you use a lot of Deadline or East Coast slugs don't exist... Merrill in Palo Alto where you can saddle up both the slugs and snails... -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Arnold Trachtenberg Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 2:42 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] cardiocrinum giganteum Here is the first image of the cardiocrinum taken with the new camera. I hope to post images of the progress of the plant to blooming. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cardiocrinum Arnold New Jersey _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue May 17 18:15:01 2005 Message-Id: <69c0712a0e6f2c89e9e387725d8b94d7@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: New Manfreda photos on wiki Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 15:14:59 -0700 I uploaded three more Manfreda species that are currently in bloom onto the wiki. They are: Manfreda sp. 'Helen Wynans' Manfreda variegata 'El Naranjo form' Manfreda undulata http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Manfreda --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue May 17 18:42:37 2005 Message-Id: <428A7358.1020700@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: cardiocrinum giganteum Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:42:32 -0400 Merrill: I hesitate to say this but the slugs haven't paid much attention to the cardiocrinum and I haven't used any slug deterrent. It grows on the edge of shade cast by a young (20 years) European beech tree. It gets a fair amount of early morning sun until about 11:00 AM. I mulch with licorice root. Arnold From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue May 17 18:51:05 2005 Message-Id: <98aca64932d935fe10c758a291201e94@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 15:51:04 -0700 You are very good, John! I was perusing the Yucca Do website to see if they had any new offerings listed on their website and, lo and behold, they just started listing Lilium brownii as a web exclusive! (Maybe they lurk on PBS and read your posting and decided to offer it...) ;-) ========== Y10-18 Lilium brownii Zone 5 to 10 Native to China Grows to 36" tall A new lily for the south! The trumpet group of lilies are best suited to the heat of the lower South. In China in 2003 we saw this species growing at low elevation on rocky ledges, hanging over deep river cuts with tall mountains looming overhead. Here it has adapted easily to the sandy soils of southeastern Texas under tall pines. We are offering 2 year old bulbils, boy this is a fast growing lily! ========== --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 13, 2005, at 11:41 PM, wrote: > Lee Poulsen wrote: > > Also, having been numerous times to Honshu, Japan in their summers and >> a couple of times to southern China in their summer, it is very very >> warm and humid there at that time. Might those places also have native >> Lily species that could either take or even enjoy a similar kind of >> weather in Texas or the southern states of the U.S.? And what might >> some of those species be? > > What about Lilium brownii? That is a southern Chinese species, very > unsatisfactory in the UK. > > John Grimshaw > From john@floralarchitecture.com Tue May 17 21:15:39 2005 Message-Id: <20050518011538.6692.qmail@web50105.mail.yahoo.com> From: John Ingram Subject: Lewisias Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 18:15:38 -0700 (PDT) Cathy, I would mail this privately but I think that the rest of the group might be interested to know this. I have seens Lewisias at Ralph's and Trader Joes grocery stores in, as you say, "Hollywierd". Here in OH I have seen them at several local nurseries in the "country" area between Akron and Canton. So, if they have them here in "the country" at mom and pop locations, I'm surre she will be able to find them there. Now, they aren't anything named or really unusual but mass marketed hybrid labels. There was a nice double peach that I saw yesterday. Here they are about $12.00 for a 1 gal. but at home at Trader Joes, I've seen them for $7 or $8 for a 4" in full bloom. Or was that at Ralph's? John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com check it out Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From DaveKarn@aol.com Tue May 17 22:38:36 2005 Message-Id: <9.4437c980.2fbc04a7@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: REPLY2: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89 Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 22:38:31 EDT Jim, et al ~ > Whether or not the true King Alfred still exists in commerce is a question > I > have often pondered. What is certain, however, is that King Alfred was > illustrated in various publications early in the twentieth century. > 'King Alfred' is old enough to have received an FCC in 1899 according to > Calvert (I don't know how to reconcile that date with what follows). > According to Calvert "It was in 1901 that raisers had the shock of their > lives when the little known Mr. Kendall put King Alfred before the R.H.S. > Narcissus Committee." Calvert goes on to say that Kendall had raised a stock > of 'King Alfred' before showing it, and that one hundred bulbs were reputed > to have changed hands that first year. I can't cite an example, but I > wouldn't be surprised if confusion about the true 'King Alfred' began > shortly afterward - if only because demand was so great right from the > start. I sent your comments on to a friend of mine, a respected grower of daffodils and an authority in his own right, for his reply. He has a strong interest in history, in particular as it applies to daffodils, and has a considerably library to do the research. What follows are his comments on your original message which I thought would be of wider interest since the King Alfred issue has had a lengthy run recently! "King Alfred did receive a FCC from the RHS on March 22nd 1899, this cannot be disputed.   It is clearly in the Register for 1899, also in Bourne's marvellous book of 1903 stating the month, March 22, and the year 1899 when the award was made.      It also states clearly in Calvert's book, FCC-RHS 1899, on each black and white plate of King Alfred No. 24 and 25.   As for the suggestion that King Alfred may have been muddled from the start, this is simply unbelievable as too many important raisers of the day grew and bred with this variety, namely Engleheart, Brodie of Brodie, Guy L. Wilson, N.Y. Lower, P.D. Williams and W.F.M. Copeland whose photo of five blooms was printed in Bourne's book opposite page 42.   This photo is a very clear black and white print of what true King Alfred should appear like, and it would have been taken pre 1903.   King Alfred would be the ancestor, in many cases several times over, of practically every exhibition yellow trumpet in existance today.   In an excellent article by Peter R. Barr, VMH, titled "The Renaissance of the Daffodil in Britain" printed in the RHS Daffodil Year Book 1933 (No. 4) page 29. Writing on Engleheart's daffodils, he states: "Of more recent years, his Maximus seedlings are coming to the front, but I do not think they will oust King Alfred, that wonderful golden trumpet Daffodil raised by John Kendall, and which his sons in 1900 offered at 6 pounds 6 shillings a bulb."    (and on page 32, same article) "I must not omit to refer to Mr John Kendall, a solicitor, who raised the finest and most popular yellow trumpet daffodil we know to-day, namely, King Alfred, said to be a cross between Maximus and Emperor.   Unfortunately Mr. Kendall, who died in 1890, did not live to see it bloom." As for the confusion you state that exists with the Calvert description, what can one say? It seems to be in genuine conflict with the facts. I would trust the reply before I did Calvert who was a nurseryman, first off, and published the book much as a catalog as treatise on daffodils. As far as I know, he was not a skilled daffodil grower/breeder as were the others quoted in the reply, in particular, Engleheart, Wilson and The Brodie. There you are. I should well imagine the shock the august members of the RHS Committee must have experienced in seeing the ghost of the late Mr. Kendall appear before them in that meeting some eleven years after his death! Incidentally, stock of the true 'King Alfred' still exists. I have a few bulbs of it as an historical curiosity, the blooms from which I will sometimes exhibit just for people to see the real thing. Best, Dave Karnstedt From dells@voicenet.com Tue May 17 23:17:24 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bx 90 Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 23:16:43 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 90" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash or check) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the PBS discussion forum but not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk, PO Box 224, Holicong, PA, 18928, USA. Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Cathy Craig: BULBS: 1. Brunsvigia josephinae, ex-Charles Hardman. Most of these must be close to blooming size. They were growing in sharp sand and silica sand in the bottom half of the pot, with some Super soil and crushed granite in the top half of the pot. All are well-rooted and in perfect condition as far as I can tell. They were planted with top of bulb about an inch or two below soil line. Probably all same clone, but not positive. 2. Crinum from Taiwan, ex-Dwain Hicks. All well-rooted. 3. med-small Lycoris radiata, ex-Rodney Barton. 4. Narcissus, 'King Alfred' (or type). 5. Narcissus 'Elvira' (7y-w). These are from Dave Karn, the famous miniature daffodil hybridizer, in Oregon. Very good increaser. Should bloom next year. 6. Narcissus 'Spoirot' (10w-w). These also from Dave Karn. Excellent increaser. Should bloom next year. 7. Narcissus 'Falconet' (8y-o). Also from Dave Karn. Good increaser. Should bloom next year. From Carolyn Craft: Crinum bulbs: Each bulb has pink or white written on the trunk. They are a pass-over the fence variety. Both were given to me by people who had no idea what they were. Both pink and white are wide petaled and grow around 3 feet tall eventually forming large clumps with huge bulbs. The bulbs I sent were small, and more affordable to mail, not the grapefruit to cantaloupe size. 8. White 9. Pink Thank you, Cathy and Carolyn !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From msittner@mcn.org Tue May 17 23:49:47 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050517193149.02d48bf0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Alophia/Herbertia/Cypella/Hesperoxiphion Date: Tue, 17 May 2005 20:18:56 -0700 Dear All, Summarizing from past discussions of some of the South American Irids some of the genera that people confuse are Phalocallis, Cypella, Hesperoxiphion, Herbertia, and Alophia. For most of us the differences are not very clear, but that is probably because there are only a few species commonly grown by most of us and very little information about them in generalist books we might possess. Therefore I am sharing some information I received in the past from another bulb forum from Eric Walton and Alberto Castillo. According to Eric Walton from New Zealand many years ago the difference between Cypella and Phalocallis was some detail in anther morphology. Phalocallis was merged into Cypella by someone although you still see it used at times. There is apparently a difference in anther morphology between Cypella and Hesperoxiphion, but there are species that are the same thing that some people think of as Cypellas and some as Hesperoxiphion. According to the Innes book on Iridaceae that Alberto doesn't like but which is the only book I have that addresses this, species have been moved back and forth between these two genera. He describes Hesperoxiphion as having a several flowered spathe. Blades of the inner segments are hirsute or pubescent. Hesperoxiphion herrerae is described as flowering between December to April at Cuzco at altitudes 3000-3600 m with violet, blue and yellow flowers. Outer segments are violet or deep blue, inner segments paler blue, and the blade has yellow bearded markings. Perhaps Alberto can explain the difference between all these genera. For Jim McKenney I found this from Eric: "In case you are interested Cypella is from the ?Greek for cup and Hesperoxiphion is from 'Hespero' evening or western and 'xiphioides' sword-like, but 'xiphium' is the greek name for Gladiolus. I think the first species described was H. peruvianum, since the flower does not open in the evening, I would suggest that it means something like 'western gladiolus'." Now for Herbertia versus Alophia. Eric said that Herbertia species were all winter growers, except H. tigridiodes. Alophias were summer growers. The inner tepals of Herbertia were small whereas Alophia's tepals were quite large. Now here is something I saved from years ago from Alberto that he provided me for a topic of the week on Alophia and Herbertia when I was doing the topic of the week for the IBS bulbs forum. "Alophia/Trifurcia/ Herbertia The confusion between Alophia and Herbertia comes from decades ago when the name Alophia was used for South American species. Dr. Goldblatt published articles describing both genera. Currently the genus name Herbertia comprises exclusively South American spp. occurring in Chile, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, and S. Brazil. Basically, they have blue or violet flowers with three large outer tepals and three comparatively much smaller inner ones. Below are arranged according to their cultivation requirements those species botanically described along with others that we have discovered in our trips with Dr. O'Farrell and others. After Alophia the name Trifurcia was used and now Herbertia Dry winter dormant, full sun, alkaline well drained soil, dry regions. NW Argentina H. tigridioides Dry summer dormant, full sun, neutral to alkaline well drained soils, dryish regions. C. Chile H. lahue Summer dormant with year round rains, alkaline clayey soils, full sun. E. Argentina and Uruguay H. lahue ssp. amoena Dry winter dormant often under quite cold conditions, alkaline soils, full sun. Gulf States H. lahue ssp. caerulea Summer dormant with year round rains, full sun, acid clayey soils, practically frost free to subtropical regions. E. Argentina, Uruguay, S. Brazil H. quareimana (previously known as H. amatorum) H. pulchella H. sp. Entre Rios Prov., Argentina, undescribed H. sp. W. Uruguay, undescribed H. sp. W. Brazil, undescribed H. sp. N. Corrientes Prov., undescribed As with all tigridioids it is very difficult to identify them from a written description. A good picture would be advisable. Best of all would be to keep and send the flowers in 50% water and 50% medicinal alcohol. In this solution such flowers could be kept for decades without changes maintaining in a perfect condition their shape. It is also very important to describe the seed capsules as they vary in shape from species to species. Bulbs of most of the species in this genus would never offset and must be propagated from seed in a well aerated mixture. They must not be overdried while dormant. Bulbs in the wild are found deep, some 15 cm. or more. If grown in containers, do not use small pots. A one gallon container or bigger is advisable to obtain seed. If you send me a picture of your unidentified species I will be pleased to help. Alophia as described now is a small genus of the N. American subcontinent. Their flowers have a broad central cup and narrow outer tepals. In all, are very different to Herbertias. As for cultivation, they are dry winter dormant and best grown under warm conditions. Species are five and occur in Mexico and the Gulf States. Mostly found in alkaline soils in meadows in full sun." We actually have some good pictures on the wiki of some of the species in these four genera so those people who are curious could give them a look. I hope this helps clarify things and will allow Dave to rename his mystery bulb pictures and move them to the Hesperoxiphion wiki page (syn. Cypella herrerae Diels). Mary Sue From Theladygardens@aol.com Wed May 18 02:37:15 2005 Message-Id: <1f9.9fffa03.2fbc3c95@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Pacific Bx 90 Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 02:37:09 EDT Dell, I would like #1 Brunsvigia and #5 Narcissus 'Elvira' Thanks, Carolyn Craft From Theladygardens@aol.com Wed May 18 02:45:20 2005 Message-Id: <80.27def4b0.2fbc3e7e@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Pacific Bx 90 apology Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 02:45:18 EDT I apologize for sending to entire group Carolyn From dells@voicenet.com Wed May 18 06:23:55 2005 Message-Id: <20050518102355.61BE44C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific Bx 90 Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 06:23:50 -0400 I have received your order. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, Director, PBS BX -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Theladygardens@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 2:37 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bx 90 Dell, I would like #1 Brunsvigia and #5 Narcissus 'Elvira' Thanks, Carolyn Craft _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dells@voicenet.com Wed May 18 06:47:42 2005 Message-Id: <20050518104742.1A2A84C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: FW: Daffodils in the current BX Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 06:47:35 -0400 _____ From: DaveKarn@aol.com [mailto:DaveKarn@aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 12:30 AM To: dells@voicenet.com Subject: Daffodils in the current BX Hello Dell ~ While my email address is DaveKarn, my genuine, real assigned name is Dave Karnstedt! Thanks for the "noted hybridizer" compliment! Actually, I have done very little miniature hybridizing as fertile froms are difficult to find. Most of those in existence have resulted from 2n species x 4n hybrid crosses and are triploid and, thus, infertile. Thus, my major breeding efforts have been concentrated within what are known as "standard" daffodils. Incidentally, 'Elvira' is a tazetta type and is, technically, 8W-YYO. (Jonquils are technically in RHS Division 7.) 'Elvira' is the form from which the far better known 'Cheerfulness' originally sported. Either of them are good growers producing lots of flowers. Best, Dave Karnstedt Silverton, OR From c-mueller@tamu.edu Wed May 18 08:09:27 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 07:08:45 -0500 Hello, Lee, John, and Southern lily lovers: Wade of Yucca Do has told me that L. brownii is a white-colored trumpet type. No image yet on the website. Cynthia W. Mueller College Station TX >>> wpoulsen@pacbell.net 05/17/05 5:51 PM >>> You are very good, John! I was perusing the Yucca Do website to see if they had any new offerings listed on their website and, lo and behold, they just started listing Lilium brownii as a web exclusive! (Maybe they lurk on PBS and read your posting and decided to offer it...) ;-) ========== Y10-18 Lilium brownii Zone 5 to 10 Native to China Grows to 36" tall A new lily for the south! The trumpet group of lilies are best suited to the heat of the lower South. In China in 2003 we saw this species growing at low elevation on rocky ledges, hanging over deep river cuts with tall mountains looming overhead. Here it has adapted easily to the sandy soils of southeastern Texas under tall pines. We are offering 2 year old bulbils, boy this is a fast growing lily! ========== --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 13, 2005, at 11:41 PM, wrote: > Lee Poulsen wrote: > > Also, having been numerous times to Honshu, Japan in their summers and >> a couple of times to southern China in their summer, it is very very >> warm and humid there at that time. Might those places also have native >> Lily species that could either take or even enjoy a similar kind of >> weather in Texas or the southern states of the U.S.? And what might >> some of those species be? > > What about Lilium brownii? That is a southern Chinese species, very > unsatisfactory in the UK. > > John Grimshaw > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From john@floralarchitecture.com Wed May 18 11:18:54 2005 Message-Id: <20050518151852.91567.qmail@web50103.mail.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Worsleya TC production Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 08:18:51 -0700 (PDT) Here is the response from the lab that is growing my plant, from Dash, in TC: "We are planting all plants to soil and sending to you. I don't see the need for a contract, we won't be producing them after that." We shall see what happens. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com check it out Floralartistry2000@yahoo.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed May 18 12:32:23 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050518092819.010975d8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Lewisias Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 09:32:18 -0700 John Ingram wrote, >I have seens Lewisias at Ralph's and Trader Joes grocery stores in, as you >say, "Hollywierd". >...Here they are about $12.00 for a 1 gal. but at home at Trader Joes, >I've seen them for $7 or $8 for a 4" in full bloom. I would advise not buying Lewisia cotyledon in gallons. These plants have been aggressively forced for container sale in bloom and rarely relocate successfully to the garden. If you plant this species when it is quite small, it will establish well. For example, in my garden in flower now is a L. cotyledon that I planted 20 years ago when it had only four leaves. It's growing in a fieldstone dry retaining wall in a crevice, which it has reshaped over the years to accommodate its SLOWLY increasing size. The best sources for Lewisia are not bedding plant operations, but alpine nurseries such as Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery and (for more unusual kinds) Mt. Tahoma Nursery. Here the plants are grown respectfully, with an eye toward longevity in the garden. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From dkramb@badbear.com Wed May 18 12:42:59 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050518124119.01e2f1a0@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Sedum ternatum Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 12:43:00 -0400 I'm going out on a limb here to see if anyone grows Sedum ternatum. It's native to Eastern North America, and I can barely keep it alive in my garden. I'd like to know if anyone else has it, and what are they doing to get it to thrive? I just found a local population and I picked a small piece to try in my yard. But I have 5+ year old examples from mail order nurseries that are just barely surviving still..... Dennis in Cincinnati From john@johnlonsdale.net Wed May 18 13:20:55 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: Lewisias Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 13:20:54 -0400 The deciduous lewisias, especially rediviva, do very well here in full sun with some protection from excess summer moisture under the garage eaves. I've got a bunch of L. cotyledon seedlings from Ron Ratko seed and would appreciate advice on siting them here in SE PA - particularly with respect to amount of sun they will take and how much moisture they would like in the summer. Always on the scrounge - I'd also love seed of Lewisia tweedyi if anyone has any spare. I have one plant outside that seems to be doing well but the others rotted off. I think I have a better feel for what they need now. Thanks, J. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed May 18 13:23:15 2005 Message-Id: <896b90c2153a2bb6f513625cfe3bee84@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Lewisias Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 10:23:05 -0700 I bought a couple of these from Trader Joe's a couple of years ago. Much to my amazement, they have come back each year since then. In fact, they are blooming right now. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 On May 17, 2005, at 6:15 PM, John Ingram wrote: > Cathy, > > I would mail this privately but I think that the rest of the group > might be interested to know this. > > I have seens Lewisias at Ralph's and Trader Joes grocery stores in, as > you say, "Hollywierd". > > Here in OH I have seen them at several local nurseries in the > "country" area between Akron and Canton. So, if they have them here in > "the country" at mom and pop locations, I'm surre she will be able to > find them there. Now, they aren't anything named or really unusual but > mass marketed hybrid labels. There was a nice double peach that I saw > yesterday. > > Here they are about $12.00 for a 1 gal. but at home at Trader Joes, > I've seen them for $7 or $8 for a 4" in full bloom. Or was that at > Ralph's? > From rarebulbs@earthlink.net Wed May 18 13:59:02 2005 Message-Id: <000701c55bd3$36710210$2bc779a5@DJ9SK221> From: "diana chapman" Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 10:58:34 -0700 Our new web site is now on line. Designed by Chris Carley, there are many more photographs. The print catalogue will follow shortly. www.telosrarebulbs.com Diana Chapman From totototo@pacificcoast.net Wed May 18 13:20:17 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 10:30:57 -0800 On 17 May 05 at 22:38, DaveKarn@aol.com wrote: > I sent your comments on to a friend of mine, a respected > grower of daffodils and an authority in his own right, for > his reply. He has a strong interest in history, in > particular as it applies to daffodils, and has a > considerably library to do the research. Is there any possibility your friend (or some PBS subscriber with access to the same books) can scan this photographs and put them up on the Wiki? -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From hornig@usadatanet.net Wed May 18 14:58:48 2005 Message-Id: <191440-220055318185842989@M2W081.mail2web.com> From: "hornig@usadatanet.net" Subject: Sedum ternatum Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 14:58:42 -0400 Dennis - it's very happy here, in my yard, in dry dappled shade. I got it from a friend who was using it as a groundcover around her big old black locusts (not much will grow there), and now have big drifts under a mulberry and facing down some rhododendrons. Perhaps you're being too kind to yours? Ellen Hornig Seneca Hill Perennials Oswego, NY USDA zone 5 Original Message: ----------------- From: Dennis Kramb dkramb@badbear.com Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 12:43:00 -0400 To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Sedum ternatum I'm going out on a limb here to see if anyone grows Sedum ternatum. It's native to Eastern North America, and I can barely keep it alive in my garden. I'd like to know if anyone else has it, and what are they doing to get it to thrive? I just found a local population and I picked a small piece to try in my yard. But I have 5+ year old examples from mail order nurseries that are just barely surviving still..... Dennis in Cincinnati _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . From dells@voicenet.com Wed May 18 16:35:50 2005 Message-Id: <20050518203550.7F2754C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: FW: [pbs] Pacific Bx 90 Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 16:35:45 -0400 -----Original Message----- From: Paul Tyerman [mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au] Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2005 7:41 AM To: dells@VOICENET.COM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bx 90 > >6. Narcissus 'Spoirot' (10w-w). These also from Dave Karn. >Excellent increaser. Should bloom next year. Dell, I am fairly sure that 'Spoirot' is in fact of Australian breeding, not Dave Karn in the US. Commercial name of the breeder is Glenbrook I think (Tasmania), but I have forgotten the "person" name of the breeder. Might be worthwhile checking this if you want to pass it on. I just thought I would mention that the Dave Karn reference might be worthwhile checking. I know that 'Falconet' has been grown in the UK for a while, but I don't know whether that means it was a UK breeder, or whether it went there from the US? Cheers. Paul T. From odysseybulbs@earthlink.net Wed May 18 16:24:48 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.2.0.0.20050518163233.02caf020@pop.earthlink.net> From: Russell Stafford Subject: Odyssey Bulbs catalog Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 16:36:26 -0400 Our catalog, too, is on line. Russell Stafford Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs 8582 S. Hillcrest Dr., Berrien Springs, Michigan 49103 269-471-4642 www.odysseybulbs.com From dells@voicenet.com Wed May 18 17:01:33 2005 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 90 CLOSED Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 17:00:50 -0400 Dear All, Packages should go out after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell From jimmckenney@starpower.net Wed May 18 20:05:25 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$12rhlo@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: REPLY2: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89 Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 20:05:22 -0400 Thanks, Dave, for this detailed reply. It adds to my knowledge of the King Alfred story: I was not aware, for instance, that Kendall had died in 1890. When I wrote "but I wouldn't be surprised if confusion about the true 'King Alfred' began shortly afterward - if only because demand was so great right from the start" I didn't have in mind confusion among those who would know better. Of course the great daffodil hybridizers of the time would not have been fooled. What I was alluding to was the huge public preoccupation with the name King Alfred. Even as late as the '30s of the last century (about forty years after King Alfred germinated) there was intense interest in establishing a domestic crop of King Alfred in the Pacific Northwest. No doubt lots of smaller growers wanted in on the action. With that in mind, consider the progress which was being made in daffodils in the meantime: even Calvert's book from 1929 illustrates many daffodils which seem to be much better than King Alfred. It seems to me that the market conditions were ripe for mischief: King Alfred was soon surpassed by better hybrids, the public wanted the name King Alfred, and many growers doubtless saw no sense in investing in what was by then a back number, especially when the public evidently didn't know the difference. Your correspondent gave some added insight in quoting Barr's article on the state of Engleheart's seedlings in 1933. Maybe those daffodils I see illustrated in Calvert were not really much better than King Alfred. That seems to shoot down my belief that great progress had been made during the thirty years since King Alfred's introduction. You have no idea how happy it makes me when some offhand comment of mine stirs up what to me is new information, new insights, obscure details, traditions not recorded in the usual literature and so on. I wish it happened more often! Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the garden if full of roses, bearded iris, peonies, waterlilies, Eremurus, poppies and the most lush, green foliage of the year. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of DaveKarn@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2005 10:39 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] REPLY2: 'KING ALFRED' daffodil -- was Pacific BX 89  Jim, et al ~ > Whether or not the true King Alfred still exists in commerce is a question > I > have often pondered. What is certain, however, is that King Alfred was > illustrated in various publications early in the twentieth century. > 'King Alfred' is old enough to have received an FCC in 1899 according to > Calvert (I don't know how to reconcile that date with what follows). > According to Calvert "It was in 1901 that raisers had the shock of their > lives when the little known Mr. Kendall put King Alfred before the R.H.S. > Narcissus Committee." Calvert goes on to say that Kendall had raised a stock > of 'King Alfred' before showing it, and that one hundred bulbs were reputed > to have changed hands that first year. I can't cite an example, but I > wouldn't be surprised if confusion about the true 'King Alfred' began > shortly afterward - if only because demand was so great right from the > start. I sent your comments on to a friend of mine, a respected grower of daffodils and an authority in his own right, for his reply. He has a strong interest in history, in particular as it applies to daffodils, and has a considerably library to do the research. What follows are his comments on your original message which I thought would be of wider interest since the King Alfred issue has had a lengthy run recently! "King Alfred did receive a FCC from the RHS on March 22nd 1899, this cannot be disputed.   It is clearly in the Register for 1899, also in Bourne's marvellous book of 1903 stating the month, March 22, and the year 1899 when the award was made.      It also states clearly in Calvert's book, FCC-RHS 1899, on each black and white plate of King Alfred No. 24 and 25.   As for the suggestion that King Alfred may have been muddled from the start, this is simply unbelievable as too many important raisers of the day grew and bred with this variety, namely Engleheart, Brodie of Brodie, Guy L. Wilson, N.Y. Lower, P.D. Williams and W.F.M. Copeland whose photo of five blooms was printed in Bourne's book opposite page 42.   This photo is a very clear black and white print of what true King Alfred should appear like, and it would have been taken pre 1903.   King Alfred would be the ancestor, in many cases several times over, of practically every exhibition yellow trumpet in existance today.   In an excellent article by Peter R. Barr, VMH, titled "The Renaissance of the Daffodil in Britain" printed in the RHS Daffodil Year Book 1933 (No. 4) page 29. Writing on Engleheart's daffodils, he states: "Of more recent years, his Maximus seedlings are coming to the front, but I do not think they will oust King Alfred, that wonderful golden trumpet Daffodil raised by John Kendall, and which his sons in 1900 offered at 6 pounds 6 shillings a bulb."    (and on page 32, same article) "I must not omit to refer to Mr John Kendall, a solicitor, who raised the finest and most popular yellow trumpet daffodil we know to-day, namely, King Alfred, said to be a cross between Maximus and Emperor.   Unfortunately Mr. Kendall, who died in 1890, did not live to see it bloom." As for the confusion you state that exists with the Calvert description, what can one say? It seems to be in genuine conflict with the facts. I would trust the reply before I did Calvert who was a nurseryman, first off, and published the book much as a catalog as treatise on daffodils. As far as I know, he was not a skilled daffodil grower/breeder as were the others quoted in the reply, in particular, Engleheart, Wilson and The Brodie. There you are. I should well imagine the shock the august members of the RHS Committee must have experienced in seeing the ghost of the late Mr. Kendall appear before them in that meeting some eleven years after his death! Incidentally, stock of the true 'King Alfred' still exists. I have a few bulbs of it as an historical curiosity, the blooms from which I will sometimes exhibit just for people to see the real thing. Best, Dave Karnstedt _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From pollards@adelphia.net Wed May 18 20:12:15 2005 Message-Id: <21895606.1116461534789.JavaMail.root@web8.mail.adelphia.net> From: Subject: Texas Members! Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 20:12:14 -0400 Dear Texas members: Two of my favorite native geophytes that I grew while in Texas (at least I consider them geophytes) were angel trumpets (Acleisanthes longiflora) and scarlet muskflower (Nyctaginia capitata), both in the four-o'clock family. I have left plants wherever I've lived and gardened, but now I find myself seedless and without two of my favorite plants. Does anyone have these plants growing nearby? I know they occur as far east as the Hill Country and should be ripening seed soon and for the rest of the growing season on and off. I will be happy to reimburse postage or trade some Herbertia lahue, Clitoria mariana, or Tecoma stans var. stans seed I have handy. Please respond privately. Shawn Pollard Yuma, AZ pollards@adelphia.net From leo1010@attglobal.net Thu May 19 01:17:14 2005 Message-Id: <428C1254.1070407@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Cybistetes - let them stay up late? Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 22:13:08 -0600 Hello, Almost all my S African winter-rainfall bulb seedlings have gone dormant. But not Cybistetes longifolius, which looks just as happy as it did in January. I've continued to water since they're bright green. These are from Silvehill seed I received last spring. I planted them on arrival even though my seasons were 6 months off, and kept them through the summer in the coolest part of my house. Then last fall I put them outside. It is definitely summer here, with day temperatures well over 100 F and nights in the 60s. Soon the nights will start warming up as well. Should I keep watering the Cybistetes and keep them outside, or stop watering to force dormancy? Or should I bring them into the house again and keep them growing in a cooler area as long as possible? Thanks, Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From samarak@gizmoworks.com Thu May 19 00:16:41 2005 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Sedum ternatum Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 23:16:40 -0500 (CDT) Dennis, It's native here too (NW Arkansas) and grows well in several spots around the yard, all in shade to dappled shade, ranging from moderate moisture in summer to quite dry (everything has plenty of water in spring). I've seen it in many situations in the wild - it's "locally abundant" here - but never in one with much direct sun other than at very low angles (early morning/late afternoon). Happens to be one of my wife's favorite understated/underused natives, and she's tucked it in several places where she wanted a short shade groundcover. Sorry I can't offer better advice - its the obverse of the squeaky wheel thing, its reward for being so easy here is not much attention. Steve On Wed, 18 May 2005, hornig@usadatanet.net wrote: > Dennis - it's very happy here, in my yard, in dry dappled shade. I got it > from a friend who was using it as a groundcover around her big old black > locusts (not much will grow there), and now have big drifts under a > mulberry and facing down some rhododendrons. Perhaps you're being too kind > to yours? > > Ellen Hornig > > Original Message: > ----------------- > From: Dennis Kramb dkramb@badbear.com > Subject: [pbs] Sedum ternatum > > I'm going out on a limb here to see if anyone grows Sedum ternatum. It's > native to Eastern North America, and I can barely keep it alive in my > garden. I'd like to know if anyone else has it, and what are they doing to > get it to thrive? I just found a local population and I picked a small > piece to try in my yard. But I have 5+ year old examples from mail order > nurseries that are just barely surviving still..... > > Dennis in Cincinnati -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From leo1010@attglobal.net Thu May 19 01:20:58 2005 Message-Id: <428C1334.7020600@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Xerophyta retinervis Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 22:16:52 -0600 I can't recall whether I posted this before. A year or so ago I wrote inquiring how to sprout the above. Nobody had any suggestions. Several people said they had been trying to sprout them but never got any germination. After seeing other X. species in habitat in Madagascar I realized they sprout in constantly-wet humus hummocks on rock faces during the wet season. So I put some sand in a pot, placed the X. seed on the surface of the sand, and set it in a container of water so the water table is within an inch of the sand surface. I covered it with a bag. The seed came up quickly and is growing. I don't have any idea how fast they grow in habitat so I don't know what to expect next, but at least now we know how to sprout them. Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From msittner@mcn.org Thu May 19 00:41:10 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050518164448.01dca7e0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: California Bulbs in Central California 2 Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 21:23:44 -0700 Dear All, This is my second installment telling about our search to see wildflowers in California in April. One day we visited Pinnacles National Monument. This monument which was set aside because of its geological features can be described as having chaparral that covers mountains that are the remnants of an ancient volcano. There are canyons and caves and 30 miles of trails. There are a lot of bulbs on the plant list for this area, but we didn't find very many of them in bloom. A Fritillaria already had set seed. We only spent part of a day there and since we were looking at all the flowers we saw along the trail when we got to the part where we had to climb up and around the caves (since we had not brought flashlights and didn't want to crawl through the caves in darkness), we turned around. There was supposed to be a good stand of flowers on the other side of the caves, but it was already late in the day and we had a couple of miles of walking to get back to our car and were already happy with the flowers we had seen. So we don't know what others we might have found. As we drove in late morning I was excited to spot some very pretty Calochortus venustus blooming alongside of the road on the bank. There were a few close to the road which was good since there wasn't really a good place to park so it was possible to take a quick picture. There were some higher up out of reach. We didn't see any others even though we spent all afternoon there. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus We walked along the Bench Trail. The trail is sunny along the creek, but soon becomes shady. In the first part of the walk there were monkey flowers (Mimulus aurantiacus) in the prettiest soft peach color, poppies, owl's clover, many annuals, and some white Alliums. I think these are Allium lacunosum, but have to admit working backwards from the Alliums that are on the plant list and eliminating the ones I was sure it wasn't. The trail then got more shady so we saw different things including one of California's native Clematis (ligusticifolia) with lovely climbing white flowers and a lot of the blue fiesta flower, Pholistoma auritum, which we saw a lot on our trip. Another Allium we saw in bud was Allium crispum. This is such a pretty species. It was found on a shady bank while the other Allium was in a much sunnier location. In the days to come we saw more of Allium crispum in bloom in Monterey County and at Figueroa Mountain in Santa Barbara County. I have put a couple of pictures of it from our trip, including one growing on a bank with a lighter shade of Chinese Houses, Collinsia heterophylla. Given that we often saw this annual blooming with bulbs, perhaps it is a likely annual companion plant. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/American%20onions We saw Delphinium parryi in quantity in the first part of the walk as we did the next few days. Delphiniums I find difficult to photograph as they are so tall and often can't be picked out of the background, but I added some attempts at this species over a couple of days and several counties. We decided that California Delphiniums don't get enough attention in this state. People think of California Poppies and Lupine when they think of California, but we found Delphiniums every day, along banks, under trees, in grassy areas. Unfortunately the Jepson Manual key is not very easy. It starts out with plants with all of the following and lists 5 characteristics and your next choice is plants with one exception to the five. Arrghhhh. But we think the pictures I added were all D. parryi although it varied in color. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Delphinium The most exciting and in some ways frustrating find of the day was Triteleia lugens. I am wanting either to grow or see as many of California's Brodiaea complex plants as I can and I hadn't seen this species before. We knew it was found in Pinnacles and that it was in bloom, but the Park Rangers were very vague about where it might be seen. I spent a lot of time trying to photograph the first pathetic specimen we found fearing we wouldn't see another. But the more we walked, the more we saw. It got to be kind of a joke as it was blooming in so many places. To most of you all the yellow Tritelias must look alike, but unlike Triteleia ixioides, this one does not have appendages although it does have a very unusual shaped filament. The memory card on my digital camera had one of those freak meltdowns so I thought I had lost all of my pictures of this species after so many attempts to get it in focus. I finally figured out a way to recover fragments of the pictures which is why the close-up is only the top part of the flower. If you look closely you will see a familiar annual in one of these pictures. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Triteleia Finally every single day of our trip we saw Dichelostemma capitatum. We saw some extremely short ones growing in serpentine, some very tall ones, pale ones, dark ones, ones in low elevations, ones in high elevations. I added pictures to the wiki of a plant photographed at Pinnacles, one along the road with shrubs in San Luis Obispo County, and one at higher elevations in the area near Lake Isabella in Kern County. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma All for now. Mary Sue From msittner@mcn.org Thu May 19 00:48:35 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050518214128.02b93480@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Lewisias Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 21:48:00 -0700 Hi, Jane didn't mention that she sometimes has these on her surplus list. I have grown Lewisia cotyledon in gallon containers for a number of years. I think I tried planting one out and it didn't do well. Maybe it was too big at that stage. On the other hand I have found that they need a lot of fertilizer to bloom well and that I seem to be able to manage better in containers. The way I grow them is in filtered shade a bit sheltered from all our rain and moist year round. I work slow release fertilizer into the top of the soil and they bloom well. I once heard in a talk if you let these dry out too much in summer they may go dormant and if you then water them they may rot. I've recently potted up some tiny ones that reseeded from my pots so maybe I'd have some to try at a small size in the ground. Mary Sue From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Thu May 19 06:14:22 2005 Message-Id: <004101c55c5b$7fb00ab0$0400a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Tropaeolum success Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 22:12:44 +1200 Mary Sue wrote: > I have germinated seed of Tropaeolum on occasion, but even then lost it > later. I had no luck with some T. azureum seed that a kind friend from the > UK gave me last fall. I was so disappointed. Anyone with successful > methods for growing this from seed please speak up. > > So it was with low expectations that I sowed T. brachyceras that I was > I'm now wondering if I need to grow the ones I have in my greenhouse if I > want to get them to bloom. Maybe I'd have better luck. Has anyone in our > group figured out a successful way to grow Tropaeolums from seed? Does the > time you start them matter? Clifton suggested day length may have some > effect on T. azureum. Does the seed need to be soaked first? Obviously a > bigger pot would be helpful. +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Dear all, As I mentioned before, I have been reasonably successful in germinating and growing these charming, delicate, often temperamental and unpredictable Tropaeolum species, especially the exquisite Trop.azureum. I don't think that I am doing anything special as far as the cultivation of the Trops is concerned, apart from a sensible horticultural application. Perhaps our climate may be more congenial to growing these sometimes difficult species. When it comes to sowing the seed, I usually sow the seed late winter, early spring, (normal seed-tray 10 cm deep) in a free draining seed compost, with perhaps extra pumice added and covered with 5-10 mm. of coarse horticultural sand, to keep the weeds down. I keep the seed boxes outside (coolish 5-10 C.) on open, covered benches, away from the frost and heavy rain, to reduce the damage to the delicate threadlike seedlings once they're up. Seed should germinates quickly, under normal frost-free conditions . As the plants grow, water freely and grow on in a cool greenhouse or conservatory with plenty of ventilation. Its important to make sure the young seedlings don't get waterlogged, or to hot, or both, which could result in rotting or damping off. Keep them growing as long as possible, until they go dormant naturally, then store or keep little tubers dryish (not bone dry) until new growth appear. Generally they are best left undisturbed once established. When it comes to planting the mature (freshly sprouted) tubers again, sometimes during autumn , I usually select a suitable deep container (as shown with Tropaeolum on the wiki) I plant them as normal in a well drained slightly acid potting mix, 10 cm. deep in a sunny position. I usually attach the wire netting around the container for support at planting time to avoid damage to the delicate new shoots later on, which threads seem almost invisible. I place/plant the tubers towards the outside rim of the container for immediate support to the wire netting which is vital for a good start. They require sufficient moisture during the growing season, but don't overwater, which could result in rotting of the tubers. Aftercare when dormant: As the foliage dies, the pots or containers should be stored in a dry, but cool place, gradually withhold water, until compost is nearly dry. The tubers can then be carefully shaken out and repotted or split up if required. Restart into growth next spring by gradually increasing the watering. Tuberous species should be left undisturbed as long as possible. Best wishes, Bill Dijk PS: When I have seed to spare at the end of the season I might donate to the PBS BX if USDA will let me. Tauranga, New Zealand :annual rainfall :1250 mm. Sunshine hours, mean annual : 2350 hours. Temp.mean max.Summer : 25°C. Winter:15°C. Temp.mean min. Summer :14.5°C. Winter: 5°C. Wet mild Winters with occasional light frost. From ang.por@aliceposta.it Thu May 19 14:04:21 2005 Message-Id: <000e01c55c91$aa18ea20$fc0b3352@t7t2y7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Cybistetes Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 18:41:53 +0200 Leo, I do have the same behaviour here and while Brunsvigia seedlings of the same age are dormant from some weeks, Cybistetes are happy green now, as well as Boophane haemanthoides. Amaryllis, Amarygia, Nerine sarniensis hybrids and Haemanthus coccineus are dormant too, the range of temps is similar to yours and it doesn't rain from a month here. Angelo Porcelli South of Italy From DaveKarn@aol.com Thu May 19 20:53:11 2005 Message-Id: <75.45acf28c.2fbe8ef0@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: Clearing up the confusion over 'King Alfred' Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 20:53:04 EDT Hello all ~ Yet further information on 'King Alfred' from John Hunter of New Zealand, a noted breeder of daffodils, the respected historian of the Daffodil Society of New Zealand and the individual to whom I presented the original issue for analysis. I greatly respect this man's opinion since, over his considerable lifetime, he actually grown and observed (and extensively hybridized with) the daffodils he discusses. That, in my experience, is rare! Although this was posted directly to me, I have his permission to send it on to the PBS listserv as the final chapter in the saga of King Alfred. Dave Karnstedt ___________________ It's a pity people do not say exactly from where they derive their information. To quote a page number of a book as well as the author of the particular article they write about would be a help in research when something is questioned. After much searching through Calvert's book "Daffodil Growing for Pleasure and Profit" 1929, I have found the relevant article that was being discussed by your group. Chapter XXI "The Progress of the Daffodil from 1890 to 1910" by P. D. Williams, V.M.H. This is making more sense to me now as I can see what I believe has happened. Peter Barr in his article, states in the 1934 RHS Daffodil Year Book "That Kendall's sons in 1900 offered King Alfred bulbs at 6 pounds 6 shillings." Then it comes to this article of P. D. Williams (a year later) in Calvert's book where it states that Kendall's sons, in 1901, were selling the bulbs for five pounds five shillings. In 1901, according to P. D. Williams article, they again put blooms of King Alfred before the RHS Committee. There is no reference to any award being given. This is understandable, as it had already received the highest award possible, the FCC in 1899. I would assume that putting KA to the RHS a second time was done purely as a marketing ploy. It has to be understood that when flowers are put before the certificating committee that they are not necessarily shown by the raiser. It would most likely have been one of Kendall's sons who put the daffodil blooms before the committee. Ghosts, do not come into this!!!! The Calvert book, as I have stated on various occasions, is a great way to assemble a book for publication. It is a case of getting the experts of the day to all write a chapter, that is then added to your piece on cultivation and marketing. As stated previously, John Kendall, the raiser of King Alfred died in 1890 before KA first bloomed. King Alfred certainly received its FCC award from the RHS on March 22nd 1899. The official description at the time of the award is thus: King Alfred, Kendall. Self yellow ajax probably the finest yellow ajax yet produced. Very tall large flower of uniform rich golden colour and of great substance, said to be a cross of Maximus and either Emperor or Golden Spur. Very graceful perianth, trumpet large, elegant, with open deeply frilled mouth. It also has to be understood that the description of flowers one hundred years ago bears little relevance to today's standards! Where they say of KA in the 1899 description -- "a large flower of uniform rich golden colour," this does not equate with what we would understand as that colouring and size today. If one refers to the current classification register of the RHS, one would see that the flowers on average are 98 mm. I would not now call that large. The colouring is described in the register as vivid yellow 9A and, there again, I would not describe this as a rich golden colour. The variety of daffodil KA that I grow here is exactly the colour and averages the size (98mm) as recorded. Also, the blooms resemble the early photographs that I have. Most daffodil growers today would not realise how important King Alfred has been in the development of division one and two daffodils. The reason why this variety was such a huge advance at the time was the fact that it was one of the first tetraploid daffodils (28 chromosomes). It is well recognised that tetraploids represent the optimum characteristics for size and vigour in daffodils. Without the likes of tetraploid King Alfred, it would not be possible to have the huge range of marvelous daffodils at this point in time. My reply to you, I believe, to be completely accurate. The sources I quoted are thoroughly reliable, as Peter Barr's article included a description of all the main raisers of the day. The Rev. Bourne's "Book of the Daffodil," 1903, gives a complete list of RHS Awards of Certificated varieties and their descriptions, with months and dates from the very first RHS Award for daffodils until 1902. Two other daffodils are in this list [that were] raised by Kendall: Queen Alexandra April 22nd, 1902, Award of Merit; description -- a fine large flower, white perianth, vivid red cup. Sir Francis Drake, April 8th 1902, Award of Merit, self yellow ajax, resembles a huge Emperor, not so deep a yellow as King Alfred and without the marked Maximus character. Here endeth the lesson!!!!! John (who works on daffodil trivia) _________________ I would add a couple of additional comments to this. As I understand it, both parents of KA were diploid and, thus, KA, is a spontaneous tetraploid. This event was (in those days) not common and, certainly (as John's reply points out), represented a watershed event. I can think of another remarkable occasion where this particular event also occurred and that is with the Division 7 daffodil, 'Quick Step,' a Grant Mitsch seedling. This is a fully fertile, tetraploid jonquil. Prior to the appearance of this clone, there were no fully fertile jonquil hybrids (crosses between a standard daffodil (4n) and one of thespecies/forms of N. jonquilla (2n) has always yielded a sterile triploid (3n)). Since then, several others have appeared. One, in particular, 'Hillstar," when combined with some of the remarkable advances in this particular line of breeding that John Hunter has produced, is yielding a range of superb daffodils, both Spring-blooming and Fall-blooming. His particular breeding skill has been to bring the deep green, Fall-blooming species, N. viridiflorus, into combinations with various Spring-blooming daffodils to produce a range of wonderful daffodils (in the third generation) that typically bloom in the New Zealand equivalent of Winter, i.e., our mid-Summer, June-August!! The day seems not far off when our daffodil season may truly begin in October and end in May! From dells@voicenet.com Thu May 19 21:03:58 2005 Message-Id: <20050520010358.CC5D04C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Growing Cybistetes etc. Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 21:03:53 -0400 Dear Leo and all, It is common wisdom, I think, and it has worked for me, to grow amaryllid seedlings for 2 or more seasons before letting them go dormant. This builds up the strength/size needed to survive a dormancy. I think it also renders the hemisphere difference inconsequential. But I grow all amaryllids in containers here in Zone 6-7 and can control conditions - except for light. Regards, Dell From DaveKarn@aol.com Thu May 19 21:12:51 2005 Message-Id: <1f6.a21681f.2fbe9389@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: Pacific Bx 90 Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 21:12:41 EDT Paul and all ~ > I am fairly sure that 'Spoirot' is in fact of Australian breeding, not Dave > > Karn in the US. Commercial name of the breeder is Glenbrook I think > (Tasmania), but I have forgotten the "person" name of the breeder. > Might be worthwhile checking this if you want to pass it on. Indeed, 'Spoirot,' is Australian! It (and several others) is the work of Rod Barwick of Glenbrook Bulb Farm, Claremont, Tasmania. It's one of a group of Division 10 daffodils that I (tongue-in-cheek) christened the Detective Series as each is named after one of the fictional detectives that (I assume) are favorites of the breeder. Thus, 'Spoirot' is from HerculeS POIROT; 'Smarple' is from MisS MARPLE, 'Orclus' is from InspectOR CLUSeau, and 'Kholmes' stems from SherlocK HOLMES. This individual is noted for his singular breeding success with the N. bulbocodium and N. catabricus group of species. Much of this effort has resulted in the recent creation of an RHS Division (#10) to contain this ever expanding group of hybrids. 'Falconet' is one of a series of Division 8 (Tazetta) hybrids bred by the famous Oregon hybridizer, Grant Mitsch. They resulted from a cross between 'Matador' x N. jonquilla. One of their features is that they combine the wonderful fragrance of tazettas with that of jonquil. Too much of this delightful perfume from a bouquet of these flowers could (almost) never be enough! These hybrids have since their introduction been picked up by the Dutch growers and have been multiplied in substantial quantity such that they are now widely available each Autumn. I think the confusion arose with Dell's comment since I was the original source of the bulbs being donated to the BX by Cathy Craig and not the originator. While I am hardly a noted "miniature hybridizer," I've been known to dabble a bit, from time to time . . . All best, Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils Silverton, ORegon, USA Cool and wet in Winter -- hot and dry in Summer; USDA Zone 7-8 (great climate for almost any geophyte willing to stand up to Jack Frost once in a while!) From hyline@tampabay.rr.com Thu May 19 21:18:51 2005 Message-Id: <001701c55cd9$d7ce3040$6500a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> From: "Kevin D. Preuss" Subject: Growing Cybistetes etc. Date: Thu, 19 May 2005 21:18:34 -0400 My two plants are several years old an are still in full growth. But then again they never flower. Probably too humid for summers. I have lost all my Brusnvigia and haemanthus. Maybe i can not get the patterns down right or my climate just ain't conducive to these types of SA plants. ...On another note can anybody tell me how diverse Crinum maowanii is? Can some plants produce up to 20 seeds/pod with a dzen blooms or is just blooms w/ few seeds most common? One plant mislabled (USDA/Customs held these for more than a year and then mixed up the stock...) seems to be a C. macowanii, it has burgandy stripes on the tepals, whle most others are white w/ pinkish keels. Kevin D. Preuss St. Pete, FL www.Amaryllis-Plus.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dell Sherk" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2005 9:03 PM Subject: [pbs] Growing Cybistetes etc. > Dear Leo and all, > > > > It is common wisdom, I think, and it has worked for me, to grow amaryllid > seedlings for 2 or more seasons before letting them go dormant. This builds > up the strength/size needed to survive a dormancy. I think it also renders > the hemisphere difference inconsequential. But I grow all amaryllids in > containers here in Zone 6-7 and can control conditions - except for light. > > > > Regards, > > Dell > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimlykos@optusnet.com.au Fri May 20 02:29:16 2005 Message-Id: <002901c55d05$58e66140$630aecdc@AMARYLLIS> From: "Jim Lykos" Subject: Growing Cybistetes etc. Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 16:26:49 +1000 Hi Kevin, I have grown five C. macowanii from three different sources to flowering stage and have found that there is considerable variation in the flower colour distribution, flowering habit and that fertility is based on a number of cultural variables. The flower count seems to be based on the maturity and size of the bulb, so each successive year I see more flowers on each umbel - the best yet being around 22 flowers. The colour varies as you have noted from white flowers to those with light or dark rosy flower reverses, and a faint rose stripe on the inner surface of the flower. One macowanii has flowers that open in a dropping (nutans) fashion - while most tend to open in a semi erect fashion and then drupe as they age or are pollinated, however one remains semierect. Fertility I have found is remarkably good on a mature plant, but in the first and sometimes second year of flowering the plants dont seem inclined to set seed and when they do after hand pollination the seed count remains low. However the most mature plant will be heavy with seed on almost all the flowers. Some plants have the typical urn shaped flowers with reflexed tepal tips but with maturity in subsequent seasons these will tend to open more widely. However, I have one plant that has the habit of opening out very widely with reflexed tepals. The most mature of the macowanii's in my collection, has increased the number of scapes each subsequent season - and is up to sending out 5 this past season. However, a new inflorescence will cause the previous one to abort its seed. Due to drought conditions in eastern Australia, this year I diverted laundry water from the washing machine to nearby garden plants - and I think its this frequent inundation of the C. macowanii which is growing in clay rich B soil horizon, which acts as the trigger for its repeat flowering. C. macowanii is found over so many countries in southern to central Africa that I imagine that there is a complex array of geographical varieties - and that we will be pleasantly surprised by these differences as we flower more of these large Crinum gems. The only drawback with the species is that it seems to take at least 8 years to flower from seed! Cheers Jim Lykos Blue Mountains - Sydney Australia From lwallpe@juno.com Fri May 20 08:51:14 2005 Message-Id: <20050520.054945.7647.88492@webmail32.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Daffodil Breeders Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 12:47:16 GMT Paul & Dell- 'Spoirot' was bred by Rod Barwick of Glenbrook Bulb Farm in Tasmania. It's part of his detective series (which also includes names such as 'Smarple' and 'Kholmes') 'Falconet' was bred by Grant Mitsch of Oregon,USA. Linda W. Cincinnati -----Original Message----- From: Paul Tyerman [mailto:ptyerman@ozemail.com.au] I am fairly sure that 'Spoirot' is in fact of Australian breeding, Commercial name of the breeder is Glenbrook I think (Tasmania), but I have forgotten the "person" name of the breeder. I know that 'Falconet' has been grown in the UK for a while, but I don't know whether that means it was a UK breeder, or whether it went there from the US? ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri May 20 18:22:02 2005 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Pacific coast bulbs deer don't favour? Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 15:21:50 -0700 I have been asked for a list of Pacific coast bulbs that would be hardy here and would not be sought out by deer and rabbits. This is for the front entrance of a public garden. No to erythroniums, lilies, alstroemerias. Yes to most alliums What about Brodiaea, Triteleia, Calochortus, Fritillaria? -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri May 20 19:45:27 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050520163817.010eb9d0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Pacific coast bulbs deer don't favour? Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 16:45:25 -0700 Diane Whitehead asked, >I have been asked for a list of Pacific coast bulbs that would be hardy >here and would not be sought out by deer and rabbits. This is for the >front entrance of a public garden. > >No to erythroniums, lilies, alstroemerias. > >Yes to most alliums > >What about Brodiaea, Triteleia, Calochortus, Fritillaria? I can certainly comment from recent experience; there's a herd of 5 deer hanging out here, and I no longer have a dog I can trust loose -- only the fence-leaping youngster remains, the old fellow having just died of cancer. And that experience is all bad: deer eat brodiaeas, triteleias, calochortus, and fritillarias with great appetite. They even stick their nasty heads into the bulb frames and nip off the flowering stems. However, they seem NOT to eat Camassia, which Diane didn't mention, but it's quite ornamental, and they've also ignored Dichelostemma capitatum (though they eat D. ida-maia). The latter is growing among some alliums, though. Planting palatable bulbs among unpalatable plants seems to help them survive deer attacks, and so I've left a lot of volunteer foxgloves around my lilies this year. I can't understand why the deer don't eat the ACRES of fresh grass and shrubs on my property, and instead head straight for the bulbs and roses. The latter must have some special nutritional value they crave. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri May 20 20:12:41 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$13mv3g@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: New wiki images Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 20:12:38 -0400 I've added three new images to the wiki: two of Eremurus robustus and one of Delphinium tricorne. Mary Sue's images of Californian species of Delphinium prompted me to add Delphinium tricorne. The topic of these geophytic Delphinium came up about a year ago, and Mary Sue recounted her experiences in attempting to convince some people that they are proper geophytes. Delphinium tricorne is a true geophyte, a typical spring ephemeral which is above ground for only a few months from late winter to mid-spring. The purple-blue forms are really beautiful, but there are also forms with dirty white flowers which are not at all attractive. This is a small species, often only about a foot high if that. In very rich soil it will be up to three feet high. As far as I know, this does not grow wild anywhere near my home in southern Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, but I have seen it growing wild along the C&O Canal about forty miles west of here. That area is in a different physiographic province, and the soil there is probably not so acidic as it generally is here. I have not tried to grow the west coast geophytic Delphinium yet, but I hope to try them eventually. Nor have I been successful with D. zalil (D. sulphureum, D. semibarbatum) a Kashmiri species - the seed I had germinated freely, but at that time I did not know I was dealing with a summer dormant geophyte. One of these days I'll try again. Is anyone else out there growing this? Here's Delphinium tricorne: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Delphinium I first grew Eremurus robustus about forty years ago. The roots had been planted in the fall, just before I left home as a draftee in the Army. When they bloomed the following year, my mother sent me Polaroid photos of them. Back in those days, the John Scheepers company sent out a separate catalog insert listing some Eremurus and other items best planted early. The varieties I planted back then were E. elwesii and E. robustus. I think Eremurus elwesii is now regarded as a form of E. robustus, although as garden plants they were slightly different: the inflorescence of E. robustus was perhaps thinner and taller. The plant shown in my wiki image is comparatively short: it's only about six feet high, but it still has plenty of wow! factor. I cover these from June to February to keep them dry. In my experience, plants planted into the garden and left uncovered always eventually disappear. Here's Eremurus robustus: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Eremurus Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the garden is just about at its best with the comingled scents of honeysuckles, roses, irises, peonies and mock orange - if it had not been raining today, I would have taken a nice snooze out under the pergola. Sarracenia are blooming and adding a very exotic element to the garden. Waterlilies, poppies and the lutea hybrid tree peonies add to the already rich mix. And all of this is in a small back-yard garden. Also bloooming, long after its congeners and so thus doubly welcome: Muscari argei 'album' from Jane McGary. From leo1010@attglobal.net Fri May 20 21:30:31 2005 Message-Id: <428E802D.8090600@attglobal.net> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Growing Cybistetes etc. Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 18:26:21 -0600 Thanks to all who replied. With my weather conditions I haven't been able to keep most winter-rainfall bulb seedlings in active growth past their first spring. For example, we're expecting 110 F / 44C tomorrow. After the seedlings go dormant I bring them into the house and put them in boxes in the closet for the 5-6 months of heat. The ones in decorative containers go on the shelves in plain view as though they were simply vases full of soil I keep my Albuca spiralis in full view in the house. So far it has always been the first winter bulb to sprout and grow. I still don't resume watering the other bulbs until the nights are definitely cooling, but the A. spiralis reminds me to take them out of the closet. Kevin - You might consider bringing your winter-growing Brunsvigia and Haemanthus indoors for the summer, and return them outside only when nights get good and cool in September or October. I've never been there, but lots of the western Cape areas right on the ocean must have high humidity at all times of the year, like San Diego. I grow Dudleyas here in Arizona. They are N American west coast relatives of Crassula. They are also winter-growing and summer-dormant. If I don't bring them into the house and withhold water during the hot 6 months of the year they die. Leo -- Leo A. Martin Phoenix, Arizona, USA Some must watch while some must sleep-so runs the world away. Shakespeare From jimmckenney@starpower.net Fri May 20 20:32:34 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$13n333@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Pacific Bx 90 Date: Fri, 20 May 2005 20:31:32 -0400 Dave Karnstedt wrote:" 'Falconet' is one of a series of Division 8 (Tazetta) hybrids bred by the famous Oregon hybridizer, Grant Mitsch. They resulted from a cross between 'Matador' x N. jonquilla. One of their features is that they combine the wonderful fragrance of tazettas with that of jonquil." Dave, fragrance is the main criterion which gets a plant into my garden. Can you give the cultivar names for some others in this series notable for scent? Do you or others have any fragrant favorites in other divisions which you can recommend? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where it isn't enough for the garden to look good: it must have the scent of herbs and the sweet warbling of birds. From msittner@mcn.org Sat May 21 10:14:50 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050521065631.02a53080@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Pacific coast bulbs deer don't favour? Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 07:10:12 -0700 Hi, One wonders when seeing bulbs blooming in the wild why the deer haven't eaten them when they will eat them in most gardens even when as Jane points out there are a lot of other food possibilities. The ones growing on cliffs seem to get an obvious pass and growing through shrubs that might make them less accessible. But there are others that seem really easy to reach you sometimes see. Maybe it is the nutritional aspect of garden plants (fertilized, watered). A lot of public gardens I'm familiar with eventually resort to deer fencing. How about Zigadenus? It's supposed to be poisonous and I can't remember it getting eaten by deer. Z. fremontii is having a great year in the wild and in my garden with all the late rain this year. It is a very attractive plant. The local timber company cleared a portion of land alongside the road and near their office a year or so ago. It looked terrible at the time and we wondered why as usually they do that kind of work where the public can't easily see it and leave buffers along the road. We speculated that they were creating a fire break. This year there are hundreds of Zigadenus growing in that spot surrounded by French broom. They must have been there all the time, but it just got too shady for them to bloom well. The deer seem to be leaving them alone. Mary Sue From jglatt@ptd.net Sat May 21 13:21:58 2005 Message-Id: <428F6E39.4030606@ptd.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: deer fodder Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 13:22:01 -0400 "Know your enemy" is my mantra here on Creek Road where the deer peer in the kitchen windows, perhaps seeking coffee to go with the salad bar. A state game biologist in Connecticut once told me that if you fertilized just two rows in the center of a 2 acre bean field that the deer would eat the fertilized rows for preference. So yes, nutritional value is a factor. Pregnant and nursing does eat the new growth on roses in my garden, but once the does stop lactating, leave the rose bushes alone. Look at a deer skull (flip it upside down, and you don't need the mandible) and you'll see there are no teeth to the rear, and there's a nice hollow about where we have our soft palate - I guess that's how deer manage thorny things like roses, and perhaps even stringy things such as yucca (which I am convinced they use like floss after eating softer, juicier plants.). Deer, so I've been told, do not digest their food with stomach acids as we do. Instead, they have enzymes, which vary from herd to herd depending on what they eat. Does teach their fawns what mommy finds palatable, and the young ones generally follow family tradition. But if they start eating something new the enzyme composition will alter. So deer can be adaptable to what's available. Fritillaria imperialis and F. meleagris are untouched in my garden. Amaryllidaceae must be highly unpalatable / poisonous, since they are generally uneaten, as are many Ranunculaceae. Other categories of plants usually passed over in favor of tastier items: those with highly flavored / scented foliage = most herbs. Fuzzy leaves = lamb's ears, Stachys byzantina, and even, I can testify, Rhododendron yakusimanum. Ferns. Ornamental grasses. Milorganite is my preferred repellent at this time of year. Since it is odoriferous, and I scatter the little beads on the ground, it remains effective as plants continue to grow. Anything sprayed on the plants must A) be reapplied as plants grow, and B) be reapplied after a heavy rain. Gardening is such a joy. Judy, who having finished lunch is headed back out to the garden From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat May 21 14:01:40 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050521105737.0111acd8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Flowering in clearcuts (was Deer) Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 11:01:37 -0700 Mary Sue observed, "The local timber company cleared a portion of land alongside the road and near their office a year or so ago. It looked terrible at the time and we wondered why as usually they do that kind of work where the public can't easily see it and leave buffers along the road. We speculated that they were creating a fire break. This year there are hundreds of Zigadenus growing in that spot surrounded by French broom. They must have been there all the time, but it just got too shady for them to bloom well." This is a typical occurrence in the all-too-frequent clearcuts around where I live. Yes, the bulbs are there all the time, and so are a lot of sturdy seeds, such as those of whatever Pacific Coast iris is native to the site. I've seen wonderful bloom on Lilium columbianum in clearcuts about 5 years old. Iris tenuis (the only western American crested iris species) persists indefinitely in deep forest without flowering, but once it gets some sun, it flowers and sets a little seed; we always take people ot see it (it's a narrow local endemic) growing under a high-tension power line where the trees are regularly cut. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From dells@voicenet.com Sat May 21 14:46:05 2005 Message-Id: <20050521184605.5E5D84C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: (no subject) Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 14:46:00 -0400 >I guess that's how deer manage thorny things like roses, And don't forget holly - yuk!!! I have grown to hate deer. I am strongly in favor of giving them birth-control drugs. I regularly see a herd of 60 in the field across the road. To add to the list of things that they will eat under certain circumstances, I had them eat Eranthis this spring. I thought it was called "aconite" because of its chemical similarity to Aconitum (monkshood) which is quite poisonous. If so, some of the Borgia's victims could perhaps have defended themselves by drinking deer enzymes. with which I have had great success is Deer-Off, a concentrate of rotten eggs, garlic, and hot peppers (but it doesn't smell)and some agent that makes it stick for 3-4 months in spite of rain. The down side: it's very expensive (>$100/gal = makes 8 gallons of spray.) I'd be happy to supplement my diet with free venison and not pay $25 for a venison entree in a restaurant, but I could not shoot one. From dells@voicenet.com Sat May 21 14:49:28 2005 Message-Id: <20050521184927.F2DB74C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: message mess up Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 14:49:23 -0400 Sorry, I have problems with Word sometimes. The message I sent was about deer, obviously, and it was from me, Dell Sherk, obviously. From IntarsiaCo@aol.com Sat May 21 15:13:26 2005 Message-Id: <1a1.344376cd.2fc0e253@aol.com> From: IntarsiaCo@aol.com Subject: Wurmbea image on the WIKI Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 15:13:23 EDT http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Wurmbea_recurva.jpg This is an image of the inflorescence (about 6 cm long) of Wurmbea recurva. Wurmbea is a genus in the Colchicaceae family. Mark Mazer Intarsia Ltd. Gaylordsville, Connecticut 06755-0142 USA From darrensage100@hotmail.com Sat May 21 16:38:07 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lily seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 20:38:05 +0000 Many thanks Darren >From: >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lily seeds and bulbs >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:36:46 +0100 > >Does anybody have seeds or bulbs they could export to Mexico of L. > > longiflorum? > > >These are easily available in wholesale quantities from commercial >operations in The Netherlands, or Hadeco in South Africa. > > >Dr John M. Grimshaw >Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > >Sycamore Cottage >Colesbourne >Nr Cheltenham >Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > >Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Sat May 21 17:11:05 2005 Message-Id: <001a01c55e49$9793b330$2dc8403e@John> From: Subject: deer fodder Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 22:05:39 +0100 Judy Glattstein wrote: A state game biologist in Connecticut once told me that if you > fertilized just two rows in the center of a 2 acre bean field that the > deer would eat the fertilized rows for preference. So yes, nutritional > value is a factor. The ability of herbivores to detect differences in the nutritional status of forage (and even mineral content of water) is well known. The most striking example of this I have seen is elephants calmly feeding on Urtica massaica (a nettle whose sting is as ferocious as the reputation of the eponymous tribe) in preference to other lush growth around: nettles are known to be nutrient rich and 'good for you' when safely boiled. Further reverting to an earlier life as an elephant biologist, I was particularly interested in the selection by elephants of certain tree barks, which they ate in small quantities without wrecking the tree. In these cases there is almost always a local medicinal use for the bark: in the case of Prunus africana, one of these trees, its use for prostitis is international and the demand for bark has led to the tree becoming very scarce in some areas. I am convinced that elephants, like chimpanzees and other mammals, are practising zoopharmacognosy, the detection of beneficial, medicinal substances, and would love to be able to have a go at proving it. If someone can think of a methodology please let me know! Sorry to have wandered from the subject of deer damage... John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk From c-mueller@tamu.edu Sat May 21 17:39:01 2005 Message-Id: From: "Cynthia Mueller" Subject: deer fodder Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 16:38:39 -0500 Dear John....how interesting to have a former life as an elephant biologist.... I often used to wonder why my mammoth jackstock (donkeys from 14 to 16 hands at the shoulder - altho those who were really 16 hands at the shoulder were as rare as hens' teeth) would choose to carefully devour the rotted "punk" in old, recently broken up logs, when they had acres of grass, shrubs, treeleaves and other seemingly interesting forbs to choose from. They would dine only on the punk, leaving the rest of the wooden shell in place, although when idle, confined donkeys will readily gnaw away bark on nearby trees. Once after a very hard freeze for Central Texas, a hedge of cow-tongue cactus (Opuntia lindheimeri var. linguiformis) was frozen dead. Time passed. I was dreading having to cut up and dispose of a dried five foot tall hedge of cactus pads covered with spines. The next time I looked, the entire thing was gone - eaten - by donkeys and only a small green piece, still living, was lying there on the bare ground. Surely there would have to be a nutritional payoff for this behavior. Cynthia Mueller College Station, TX >>> johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk 05/21/05 4:05 PM >>> Judy Glattstein wrote: A state game biologist in Connecticut once told me that if you > fertilized just two rows in the center of a 2 acre bean field that the > deer would eat the fertilized rows for preference. So yes, nutritional > value is a factor. The ability of herbivores to detect differences in the nutritional status of forage (and even mineral content of water) is well known. The most striking example of this I have seen is elephants calmly feeding on Urtica massaica (a nettle whose sting is as ferocious as the reputation of the eponymous tribe) in preference to other lush growth around: nettles are known to be nutrient rich and 'good for you' when safely boiled. Further reverting to an earlier life as an elephant biologist, I was particularly interested in the selection by elephants of certain tree barks, which they ate in small quantities without wrecking the tree. In these cases there is almost always a local medicinal use for the bark: in the case of Prunus africana, one of these trees, its use for prostitis is international and the demand for bark has led to the tree becoming very scarce in some areas. I am convinced that elephants, like chimpanzees and other mammals, are practising zoopharmacognosy, the detection of beneficial, medicinal substances, and would love to be able to have a go at proving it. If someone can think of a methodology please let me know! Sorry to have wandered from the subject of deer damage... John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From darrensage100@hotmail.com Sat May 21 17:57:21 2005 Message-Id: From: "Darren Sage" Subject: Lilly seeds and bulbs Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 21:57:19 +0000 Many thanks Darren >From: >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilly seeds and bulbs >Date: Sat, 14 May 2005 07:41:30 +0100 > >Lee Poulsen wrote: > >Also, having been numerous times to Honshu, Japan in their summers and > > a couple of times to southern China in their summer, it is very very > > warm and humid there at that time. Might those places also have native > > Lily species that could either take or even enjoy a similar kind of > > weather in Texas or the southern states of the U.S.? And what might > > some of those species be? > >What about Llilium brownii? That is a southern Chinese species, very >unsatisfactory in the UK. > >John Grimshaw > >Dr John M. Grimshaw >Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens > >Sycamore Cottage >Colesbourne >Nr Cheltenham >Gloucestershire GL53 9NP > >Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From lwallpe@juno.com Sat May 21 23:44:12 2005 Message-Id: <20050521.204312.26929.105835@webmail24.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: fragrant daffodils Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 03:42:58 GMT Jim - The other 'Matador' x N. jonquilla crosses that I know of are 'Sparkling Tarts', 'Hoopoe' and 'Motmot' by Grant Mitsch and 'Explosion' by Bill Pannill. Dave may know of others. Other fragrant daffodils that I enjoy are: Div. 2 'Fragrant Rose' 'Arctic Char' Div. 4 'Independence Day' Div. 7 'Sweetness' 'Fertile Crescent' Div. 8 'Sir Winston Churchill' (heavenly citrus fragrance) Div. 11 'Mondragon' Linda Wallpe in Cincinnati patiently waiting on dichelostemma ------------------------------ From: "Jim McKenney" Dave Karnstedt wrote:" 'Falconet' is one of a series of Division 8 (Tazetta) hybrids bred by the famous Oregon hybridizer, Grant Mitsch. They resulted from a cross between 'Matador' x N. jonquilla. One of their features is that they combine the wonderful fragrance of tazettas with that of jonquil." Dave, fragrance is the main criterion which gets a plant into my garden. Can you give the cultivar names for some others in this series notable for scent? ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! From samclan@redshift.com Sun May 22 00:04:15 2005 Message-Id: <42900580.9050604@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: message mess up Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 21:07:28 -0700 Deer are so annoying that anyone addressing the subject should be given 5 faults. One got in my yard a couple of days ago and ate the top ten inches of my Franklinia, which was only 40 inches high. I'm still crying a little and using a lot of bad language! You get the picture, I'm sure. Shirley in Pebble Beach with a herd of resident deer who are so in-bred they even like Rosemary! Dell Sherk wrote: >Sorry, I have problems with Word sometimes. The message I sent was about >deer, obviously, and it was from me, Dell Sherk, obviously. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.14 - Release Date: 5/20/05 From msittner@mcn.org Sun May 22 11:46:06 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050521071018.02a591b0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Tigridia Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 08:46:01 -0700 Hi, For those of you who don't check the wiki for updates, I noticed Dennis Szeszko has added some pictures of new Mexican Tigridia species that probably most of us will not have seen before. His pictures are guaranteed to inspire bulb lust in Tigridia fans. Hopefully he will tell us a little about them. They are Tigridia mexicana and Tigridia violacea. I am curious whether he is growing them or just photographed them in the wild. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Tigridia Mary Sue From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun May 22 11:59:34 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$142enq@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: off topic: Franklinia, was message mess-up Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 11:59:33 -0400 Shirley, the damage to your Franklinia may be a blessing in disguise. About thirty years ago or so I planted a then small Franklinia here in the garden. It was about the height of the one you have, with three short branches. Shortly after I planted it, something gnawed the trunk about six or eight inched above ground so much that the top of the plant fell over. It was however still attached by a band of bark. Determined to save the plant and not knowing what else to do, I put soil over the upper part of the plant (which was then just about flat on the ground) leaving the tips of each of the three branches exposed. Now fast forward about thirty years. The Franklinia is a multi-trunked giant. Even experienced gardeners who know this plant often ask me what it is. Or they ask what kind of magnolia it is. It's probably about thirty feet high and across its widest dimension, maybe forty or fifty wide. It's a glorious sight from the time it begins to bloom in late June or early July right through the fall of the last waxy scarlet leaves in November. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a copy of Miss Martin's painting of the Franklinia from the volume of Audubon's original water colors published by American Heritage years ago hangs in the kitchen in plain view of the tree itself. The Franklinia was not painted by Audubon himself, but rather by a Miss Martin, a sister of the Bachman for whom the warbler illustrated with the Franklinia is named. The likelihood of getting a Bachman's warbler here is about zero, so we pretend the birds are goldfinches, which we have in seasonal abundance. From totototo@pacificcoast.net Sun May 22 11:01:39 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Pacific coast bulbs deer don't favour? Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 08:12:30 -0800 On 21 May 05 at 7:10, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > ...How about Zigadenus? I write within a few hours of cycling the Galloping Goose trail from km17 to past km38. Passed a stand of Zygadenus venenosus in full flower at one point: no signs of deer damage. But in gardens? Dunno. Not a bulb, but the trip also went past a thicket of a white form of the Nootka rose, Rosa nutkana. No double, though. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun May 22 13:03:43 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050522100256.0108b4d0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Pacific coast bulbs deer don't favour? Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 10:03:39 -0700 Roger wrote,I write within a few hours of cycling the Galloping Goose >trail from km17 to past km38. Passed a stand of Zygadenus >venenosus in full flower at one point: no signs of deer >damage. > >But in gardens? Dunno. I have this species growing where the deer often invade, and it has not been touched. Jane McGary Northwestern oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun May 22 13:08:03 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050522100440.01087ea0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: off topic: Franklinia, was message mess-up Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 10:08:01 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote,"About thirty years ago or so I planted a then small Franklinia here in the >garden. Shortly after I planted it, something gnawed the trunk about six >or eight inched above ground so much that the top of the plant fell over. It >was however still attached by a band of bark. Determined to save the plant >and not knowing what else to do, I put soil over the upper part of the plant >(which was then just about flat on the ground) leaving the tips of each of >the three branches exposed. > >Now fast forward about thirty years. The Franklinia is a multi-trunked >giant. I had the same experience with my Franklinia, although the damage was caused when the severe winter of 1990 froze the young plant to the ground. It also came back with multiple trunks which now reach about 18 feet -- not a giant but pretty good for a Franklinia in this climate, just the opposite (cool and dry) of what it presumably wants in summer. I do think, however, that a single-trunked Franklinia is a more attractive specimen. But mine is pretty in fall in the unusual years when it manages to color its leaves and flower at the same time; usually the frost that brings on the leaf color also blasts the flowers and makes the buds drop! I think it would work better if it got more summer heat. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From samclan@redshift.com Sun May 22 23:20:39 2005 Message-Id: <42914CC9.8050004@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: off topic: Franklinia, was message mess-up Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 20:23:53 -0700 Thank you, Jim. You make me feel better. I can't make 30 more years (112 seems a bit far out), but I can hope for it's future. And I can also add a note that I grow Zigadenus in the part of my garden that is totally natural and available for deer and other predators. No damage to the Zigadenus in 20 years!. Do you know where I could get a copy of Miss Martin's painting? Shirley McKenney wrote: >Shirley, the damage to your Franklinia may be a blessing in disguise. > >About thirty years ago or so I planted a then small Franklinia here in the >garden. It was about the height of the one you have, with three short >branches. Shortly after I planted it, something gnawed the trunk about six >or eight inched above ground so much that the top of the plant fell over. It >was however still attached by a band of bark. Determined to save the plant >and not knowing what else to do, I put soil over the upper part of the plant >(which was then just about flat on the ground) leaving the tips of each of >the three branches exposed. > >Now fast forward about thirty years. The Franklinia is a multi-trunked >giant. Even experienced gardeners who know this plant often ask me what it >is. Or they ask what kind of magnolia it is. It's probably about thirty feet >high and across its widest dimension, maybe forty or fifty wide. > >It's a glorious sight from the time it begins to bloom in late June or early >July right through the fall of the last waxy scarlet leaves in November. > >Jim McKenney >jimmckenney@starpower.net >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a copy of Miss Martin's >painting of the Franklinia from the volume of Audubon's original water >colors published by American Heritage years ago hangs in the kitchen in >plain view of the tree itself. The Franklinia was not painted by Audubon >himself, but rather by a Miss Martin, a sister of the Bachman for whom the >warbler illustrated with the Franklinia is named. The likelihood of getting >a Bachman's warbler here is about zero, so we pretend the birds are >goldfinches, which we have in seasonal abundance. >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.15 - Release Date: 5/22/05 From DaveKarn@aol.com Sun May 22 23:26:26 2005 Message-Id: <6d.45db072f.2fc2a75a@aol.com> From: DaveKarn@aol.com Subject: fragrant daffodils Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 23:26:18 EDT In a message dated 5/21/05 8:44:25 PM Pacific Daylight Time, lwallpe@juno.com writes: > > The other 'Matador' x N. jonquilla crosses that I know of are 'Sparkling > Tarts,' 'Hoopoe' and 'Motmot' by Grant Mitsch and 'Explosion' by Bill Pannill. > Dave may know of others. One you missed is 'Radiant Gem.' This has the deepest coloring of that group. There are a number of others from similar crosses made by other breeders, e.g., Harry Tuggle (of Martinsville, VA) produced seed that was sent to England where 'Martinette' was subsequently selected and named. > Other fragrant daffodils that I enjoy are: > > Div. 2 'Fragrant Rose, ' Arctic Char' > Div. 4 'Independence Day' > Div. 7 'Sweetness,' 'Fertile Crescent' > Div. 8 'Sir Winston Churchill' (heavenly citrus fragrance) > Div. 11 'Mondragon' > I think, too, that many Division 7 hybrids have more or less fragrance, particularly, the first generation hybrids. Fragrance, of course, is dependent not only on genetics, but humidity, time of day and lack of drying winds. I'd agree with Linda's list ('Fragrant Rose' is my favorite daffodil as it has good show form and coloring, along with good substance and texture. Plus, it has that wonderful tea rose fragrance! Some people (for whatever reason, it seems to be males, I've been told) are unable to detect it. One of my favorite daffodil memories was of the time one spring when I was just sitting in the patch late in the evening while this wonderful fragrance was being wafted about on the currents cool evening air. My advice would be to buy lots of 'Fragrant Rose' and plant it near where you might be sitting on that cool spring evening just admiring the garden . . . Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils Silverton, Oregon, USA Mediterranean climate cool and wet in Winter and hot and dry in Summer . . . USDA Z 7-8 From Blee811@aol.com Mon May 23 00:40:51 2005 Message-Id: <156.519ce20a.2fc2b8cd@aol.com> From: Blee811@aol.com Subject: Smelling 'Fragrant Rose' Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 00:40:45 EDT In a message dated 5/22/2005 11:26:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DaveK arn@aol.com writes: Some people (for whatever reason, it seems to be males, I've been told) are unable to detect it. 'Fragrant Rose' is also one of my favorite daffodils, Dave, and I made a male visitor get down and sniff one this evening (blooming now only because I planted the bulbs in late January). I have stuck this daffodil in front of many noses at public displays and I have found that most males can detect the fragrance, but a number of females, maybe 30% or so, cannot. Our friend Linda Wallpe says that's because men won't admit they can't do something, while women tell the truth about such things! She thinks both genders have a similar percentage that cannot detect this fragrance, regardless of their self-reports. Bill Lee From jyourch@nc.rr.com Mon May 23 15:42:36 2005 Message-Id: From: jyourch@nc.rr.com Subject: New pictures added to wiki Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 15:42:34 -0400 Hi all, I recently added new pictures to the wiki, some I took myself and others were provided by friends. If interested please take a look. Regards, Jay Scilla sibirica. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Scilla Iris laevigata 'Variegata'. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Iris Crinum macowanii http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Crinum Paeonia 'Krinkled White' http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Paeonia Narcissus hybrids 'Accent' 'Ceylon' 'Delibes' 'Ice Follies' 'Jetfire' 'Pinza' 'Tullybeg' http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NarcissusHybrids From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Tue May 24 14:50:11 2005 Message-Id: <000601c56091$5bd5a660$305ea551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: cryptostephanus DNA Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 20:49:47 +0200 Goedenavond Menh.Mevr. Naar aanleiding van een bericht op pbs,van '04 kom ik terecht bij U,met de vraag of U de cryptostephanus vansonii in Uw verzameling heeft en zo ja of U er verkoopt en verzend? Met Vriendelijke Groeten Marie-Paule Opdenakker From msittner@mcn.org Tue May 24 19:34:58 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050524160246.02c7ead0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Mystery Photos Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 16:13:45 -0700 Hi, Do any of you Hippeastrum fans have an idea about the identification of David Victor's plant? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs I see that Dave Brastow has added pictures of another Irid he saw in Peru to this page as well. It looks like the Cipura that is on the wiki. In the Innes book there is a description of Cipura goodspeediana (I love that species name) from Peru and a note that someone thinks that species really belongs to Cypella. It is described as having pale violet-blue flowers. Any ideas too about Lee's Hippeastrum? It has been on the wiki for over a year now. Are we giving up? Mary Sue From samclan@redshift.com Wed May 25 00:13:40 2005 Message-Id: <4293FC3A.6070805@redshift.com> From: Shirley Meneice Subject: Mystery Photos Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:16:58 -0700 I have no idea, but it is stunning. Shirley Meneice Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Hi, > > Do any of you Hippeastrum fans have an idea about the identification > of David Victor's plant? > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > > I see that Dave Brastow has added pictures of another Irid he saw in > Peru to this page as well. It looks like the Cipura that is on the > wiki. In the Innes book there is a description of Cipura goodspeediana > (I love that species name) from Peru and a note that someone thinks > that species really belongs to Cypella. It is described as having pale > violet-blue flowers. > > Any ideas too about Lee's Hippeastrum? It has been on the wiki for > over a year now. Are we giving up? > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.322 / Virus Database: 266.11.16 - Release Date: 5/24/05 From toadlily@olywa.net Wed May 25 00:16:05 2005 Message-Id: <4293FE40.40303@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: A short mystery! Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:25:36 -0700 Mary Sue certainly is correct that the bulb I photographed in the jungles of Peru looks like Cipura paludosa posted by Germán Roitman. I'm not familiar with this family, so I don't know how many other possibilities there are. I didn't really have time to poke into the structure of the flower, so if there is more than one Cipura from that location (Peru) that has this appearance, it will be impossible to give it a species name. At least until I go back to look at it again, or ask someone visiting the Explorer's Inn to send another picture, showing the interior. The internet sure has changed how we can do research, eh? Dave From hyline@tampabay.rr.com Wed May 25 04:58:33 2005 Message-Id: <000e01c56107$1303ab00$6500a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> From: "Kevin D. Preuss" Subject: Mystery Photos Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 04:52:25 -0400 My guess it is wold be the rare hippeastrum cuzcoensis or even Hipp. mandonii if the is green in the center. Peru does border Bolivia ( I have a friend visiting that region now...). > Do any of you Hippeastrum fans have an idea about the identification of > David Victor's plant? > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > Lee's plant looks like Hipp. striatum var. petiolatum (= var. flamigerum). These produce numerous, to say the least, bulbils that may be washed/broken off in nature. More than a few individuals sent me H. barbatum/H. puniceum album and all seem to be H. striatum var. petiolatums. I have a plant from Brazil that some call barbatum, but that seems to fall right into H. evansiae /anzoldoi, algaiae complex....No one can tell me that Indians (Tapui, or whichever) did not translocate bulbs for various reasons.So to say that a plant is found only in one locatin is most likely due to lack of exploration, IMO. Spider lily season has begun here in St. Pete, FL Kevin D. Preuss www.Amaryllis-Plus.com From daffodil@xnet.co.nz Wed May 25 08:29:03 2005 Message-Id: <00ad01c56125$532f2510$0400a8c0@Dads> From: "Bill Dijk" Subject: Crossyne flava, Massonia pygmaea, Proiphys cunninghamii Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 00:28:47 +1200 Hi Folks, Just to let you know that I have uploaded a few pictures of species flowering at the moment to the wiki. The first one is of Crossyne flava. The flower are small but many, with tepals much recurved on long pedicels. Flowerheads with more than 200 flowers is not uncommon. I have also posted a close up of an individual flower to see the detail. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Crossyne The second one is Massonia pygmaea, (syn. Neobakeria heterandra) an dainty little miniature species with short tufts of white flowers between the prostrate ciliate leaves, which is best grown in pots to keep track of. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Massonia The last one is Proiphys cunninghamii (syn. Eurycles cunninghamii) This species from Queensland, Australia has dark green, heart-shaped leaves and produces fragrant white flowers in a umbel-like clusters on long stems. This plant requires a frost-free spot, a humus rich soil, in a semi-shaded position. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Proiphys Go and have a look. Enjoy Best wishes, Bill Dijk Tauranga, NZ : where the first Snowdrops and Narcissus bulbicodiums prematurely heralding Spring. From jshields@indy.net Wed May 25 21:35:13 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050525203231.00b09320@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Mystery Photos Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 20:35:12 -0500 Hi folks, It does not look quite like Hippeastrum mandonii to me; at least, not like the mandonii I have: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/GLOVBulbs/WinterFlowers.html Regards, Jim Shields At 04:52 AM 5/25/2005 -0400, you wrote: >My guess it is wold be the rare hippeastrum cuzcoensis or even Hipp. >mandonii if the is green in the center. Peru does border Bolivia ( I have a >friend visiting that region now...). > > > > Do any of you Hippeastrum fans have an idea about the identification of > > David Victor's plant? > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > > > > >Lee's plant looks like Hipp. striatum var. petiolatum (= var. flamigerum). >These produce numerous, to say the least, bulbils that may be washed/broken >off in nature. >More than a few individuals sent me H. barbatum/H. puniceum album and all >seem to be H. striatum var. petiolatums. I have a plant from Brazil that >some call barbatum, but that seems to fall right into H. evansiae /anzoldoi, >algaiae complex....No one can tell me that Indians (Tapui, or whichever) >did not translocate bulbs for various reasons.So to say that a plant is >found only in one locatin is most likely due to lack of exploration, IMO. > >Spider lily season has begun here in St. Pete, FL > >Kevin D. Preuss >www.Amaryllis-Plus.com > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From hyline@tampabay.rr.com Wed May 25 22:43:57 2005 Message-Id: <000701c5619c$cf39eec0$6500a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> From: "Kevin D. Preuss" Subject: Mystery Photos Hipp Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 22:44:16 -0400 Now how variable is H. mandonii, Jim? Quite possibly it is the h. cuzoensis, especially since that is where it was observed. Kevin From msittner@mcn.org Thu May 26 01:29:58 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050525213743.05ddb1c0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: California bulbs in Central California 3 Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 22:27:12 -0700 Hi, This is my third installment about our trip to see California flowers in April. I'm a bit slow getting this done as it all takes a bit of time and I have been very busy. We spent one day driving a 48 miles loop in Santa Barbara County to see the wild flowers at Figueroa Mountain. There was a whole host of plant communities we saw that day including chaparral, coastal sage, grassland and woodland. We stopped many times to look at plants so it took us all day. We had fierce wind, a little rain, sunshine and dark clouds so we experienced a little of everything weather wise. There were masses of different kind of Lupines in bloom with assorted companions including Gilia and California poppies. The flowers were really quite spectacular as were the views. From the summit at 4500 feet there were views of the ocean with large trees to frame it and underneath carpets of flowers. I highly recommend this drive in a good flower year like this one was. We saw a lot of different kind of geophytes and still saw only a small number of the ones in this area. In the beginning we were entertained by Calochortus catalinae growing in the grass and with Dichelostemma capitatum, Delphinium parryi, and Lupinus sp. We saw them again towards the end of the drive so it was a nice way to start and end the day. The other Calochortus we saw in a shady wooded area was Calochortus albus. I've added habitat and closer pictures of Calochortus catalinae to the wiki. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Calochortus We saw Delphinium parryi mentioned just now in the beginning in the grass (I already added pictures of it to the wiki) and in the end when I had to climb up the side of a hill to reach it growing with shrubs in a very different habitat. There was a report of Delphinium nuttallianum being seen in the latter part of the drive, but we think someone got confused about that since that species is not supposed to occur in this area. What we did see in bloom fairly high up along the road in somewhat shady conditions was some lush Delphinium patens. It's a species I grow and a very long blooming one. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Delphinium There were at least three species of Alliums we saw. Early on we saw Allium crispum again and then halfway up when we were wandering around in the scrub discovered Allium haematochiton in bloom. I've added a couple of pictures of it in various stages. It is one of the easiest California Alliums for me to grow and the longest blooming one so I was surprised to find it so much further south where rainfall must be so different. Close by but with only one leaf we found another Allium that was white with pink stripes. My husband found a PDF file for the Plants of the Los Padres National Forest, South Zone, online which would have listed the possibilities. That didn't help me a lot since there were 16 Alliums listed! Having one leaf helped however and I narrowed it down. I think it might have been Allium diabloense. Russell Stafford sells it so maybe he can tell me if my pictures look like that species. By the way there were 13 taxa listed of Calochortus on that list too. Sadly we didn't see all of them. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/American%20onions My companions were so wanting to see Fritillaria biflora. Mine had finished blooming long before and we had already seen seed pods of it in the Pinnacles so I didn't think we'd still find any in bloom, but we did in one of our off the road wanders through the fields. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NorthAmericanFritillarias In the middle of an open field of goldfields and Sisyrinchium bellum we saw Chlorogalum leaves, but no blooms yet. There was Yucca in bloom and some of California's nicest shrubs/perennials blooming together on the last stages of the loop (Dendromecon, Ribes, Penstemons, Lupinus, Trichostema lanatum, etc.) We felt very grateful that with so much of the California wild areas covered with buildings and houses now there are still special places where you can get a sense of what it must have been like before. Mary Sue From Roth@ukzn.ac.za Thu May 26 02:10:41 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rogan Roth" Subject: Herbertia pulchella Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 08:10:23 +0200 Greetings All, Does anyone have seed of, or know of a possible source of Herbertia pulchella? Thanks a lot Rogan in South Africa. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Please find our disclaimer at http://www.ukzn.ac.za/disclaimer -------------------------------------------------------------------- <<<>>> From jshields@indy.net Thu May 26 11:39:19 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050526103724.01eba7b8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Mystery Photos Hipp Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 10:39:21 -0500 Kevin, I think all my plants are probably one clone of H. mandonii, so I don't know about the variability. Mine came from Herb Kelly originally; does anyone have Hippeastrum mandonii from another source than Herb? Any pictures of the flowers? Jim Shields in central Indiana At 10:44 PM 5/25/2005 -0400, you wrote: >Now how variable is H. mandonii, Jim? Quite possibly it is the h. >cuzoensis, especially since that is where it was observed. >Kevin ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From osmani_baullosa@yahoo.com Thu May 26 14:06:57 2005 Message-Id: <20050526180656.8156.qmail@web30510.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Osmani Baullosa Subject: Tropaeolum and Bomarea tubers available Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 11:06:56 -0700 (PDT) Hello all, I have some dormant tubers of Tropaeolum (tricolor, brachycheras and azureum) and Bomarea salsilla obtained from seed by a friend of mine. If any of you are interested in buying them, please write to me privately to: obaullosa@yahoo.com Thanks and Best Regards, Osmani Baullosa --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site! From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Thu May 26 15:30:33 2005 Message-Id: <000501c56229$560b9cf0$305ea551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: Tropaeolum and Bomarea tubers available Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 21:30:12 +0200 Hello Osmani, Can foreign people also by these plants? Regards, Marie-Parule Opdenakker ----- Original Message ----- From: "Osmani Baullosa" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 8:06 PM Subject: [pbs] Tropaeolum and Bomarea tubers available > > Hello all, > > I have some dormant tubers of Tropaeolum (tricolor, brachycheras and azureum) and Bomarea salsilla obtained from seed by a friend of mine. > > If any of you are interested in buying them, please write to me privately to: obaullosa@yahoo.com > > Thanks and Best Regards, > > Osmani Baullosa > > > > > > > > > --------------------------------- > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site! > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From jimmckenney@starpower.net Thu May 26 16:09:13 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$15sau4@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: botrytis on Fritillaria Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 16:09:10 -0400 Virtually all of my tulips were infected with botrytis this year, some forms more so than others. Both the leaves and the flowers were damaged, in some cases seriously. The flowers in general were disfigured enough to make them useless for photography. Now that the tulip season is over here, in retrospect I realize that the Fritillaria growing right next to the tulips did not show signs of botrytis. Are Fritillaria known to be botrytis resistant? Or do the symptoms of botrytis infection manifest themselves differently in frits? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA, zone 7, where the last few days have been cold enough to pass for early April. I saw Lilium pumilum blooming in an Alexandria, Virginia garden earlier this week, and L. grayi here is in advanced bud. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu May 26 17:57:27 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050526145302.01094ff0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: botrytis on Fritillaria Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 14:57:22 -0700 Botrytis is not a big problem for me because it's rarely warm and wet at the same time in this part of the world. However, it does occur. In fritillarias, I have seen it fairly often on F. davisii, and once I bought some Chinese frits from Paul Christian that came infected with a stubborn form of Botrytis. I had to isolate them and spray them a lot, and some still died. Other than that, it seems not to bother them. However, I don't allow purchased tulip bulbs into my bulb frames because I believe they are often carriers of multiple viruses, bacterial diseases, and other problems. Most frits have a different leaf texture than tulips, so it does look a bit different -- darkened, moist spots that turn brown. It's important not to get the foliage wet during warm weather. This may be a real problem for Jim in the mid-Atlantic region. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu May 26 20:13:42 2005 Message-Id: <44cc1dc8b18bae7fac2b1b3808badb82@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Israeli Controversy Blossoms Over Protecting Gilboa Iris (Iris haynei) - Science Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 17:13:40 -0700 This article just showed up in this week's Science magazine. Does anyone grow Iris haynei? Is it difficult? How rare is it? Didn't Michael Avishai, the director of the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens mentioned in the article, used to be on one of the bulb lists? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 ====================================== SCIENCE VOL 308 27 MAY 2005 p. 1251 Ecology Israeli Controversy Blossoms Over Protecting Gilboa Iris A proposed eco-friendly settlement on Mount Gilboa has enraged Israeli scientists,who say it will trample on a beloved national icon MOUNT GILBOA, ISRAEL—--Every March, tourists clog the narrow road snaking up this mountain to enjoy the spectacular blooming of the purple Gilboa iris. But this year the rare flower, a national icon unique to the ridge, has also become a major bone of contention between settlers of a proposed ecofriendly town and Israeli scientists who call the settlement “an ecological crime.” The fight is part of a larger battle over preserving open spaces in a country where environmental concerns often take a back seat to an Israeli imperative to build on the ancient land. The new settlement, called Michal, would sit atop the Gilboa ridge in northeastern Israel, just east of the West Bank. Two years ago, Israel’s Nature and Parks Authority approved a plan to build 120 housing units on 0.15 square kilometers after the regional government agreed to set aside 63 sq. km., including the eastern slope of the ridge, as a permanent nature preserve. “Nature gets a lot,” said an authority spokesperson. Settlers say they want to implement ambitious plans for energy-efficient homes, recycling, and the use of native plants. “We want to live with nature,” says software engineer Aviv Harary, a community leader who notes that each iris in the path of the new settlement will be transplanted before construction begins. But a coalition of Israeli scientists has filed an off icial objection to the settlement, arguing that any construction, however benign, risks “total extinction” of the iris. They hope to influence the deliberations of Israel’s national planning council, the last in a series of bureaucratic hurdles that must be cleared before construction can begin. The scientists are joined by the Society for Protection of Nature in Israel, which uses the iris in its logo and says the flower is one part of a distinctive blend of desert, steppe, and Mediterranean conditions on the mountain. Encouraged to come to the area by a regional government seeking new residents, the settlers chose this site because they were attracted by the region’s beauty. They hope that Michal—through its domestic use of rainwater, buildings faced with recycled materials, and south-facing structures—will serve as a model for ecological living in Israel. Despite the green engineering of its buildings, opponents fear that the settlement will damage the local ecology. B e c a u s e the Gilboa, unlike most irises, cannot self-pollinate, the settlement will reduce crucial genetic diversity by isolating clusters of irises to the north and south, worries plant ecologist Yuval Sapir of Indiana University, Bloomington. In a letter leaked to the Israeli paper Ha’aretz last year, Nature and Parks Authority board science committee chair Tamar Dayan attacked the plans, saying that the light, pets, gardens, and utilities from the settlement could affect an area on the mountain 10 times larger than its footprint of homes. For example, the flower’s pollinating insects might be forced to compete with other insects introduced by imported gardens and agriculture, says Michael Avishai, scientific director of the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens. Michal planner Chaim Shenhar replies that residents plan to protect the irises in their midst and that the settlement’s footprint was even modified to avoid affecting areas of higher density. He also says that homeowners plan to cultivate local plants. Scientists are also unhappy with the arrangement to set aside land along the slopes of the mountain. They note that few irises grow in the protected areas. From an ecological perspective, says Tel Aviv University ecologist Yoram Yom-Tov, “[t]he top of the Gilboa is more important than the slopes.” The leaked Dayan document asserted that the deal, approved by the authority’s politically appointed board, was made “without scientif ic or professional backing.” In response, the authority says it followed its normal practice on consultations. The proliferation of the irises along the streets and lawns of the nearby kibbutz Ma’ale Gilboa shows that humans and flowers can co-exist, says Dani Kamari, deputy head of the Bet She’an regional council, which welcomes the new settlement as a way to make existing education, health care, and garbage services more cost-efficient. “Some scientist sitting in Tel Aviv doesn’t understand how people here live,” he adds. Kamari acknowledges that the kibbutz, an Orthodox community, and two other nearby towns could use additional residents. But he notes that the Michal group prefers to live in its own, secular town. Opponents are asking prominent lawmakers to pressure the planning council, which is now reviewing comments before making a final decision. Likud legislator Omri Sharon, son of the prime minister, has already signaled his support. But in a country where development is a national priority, opponents of Michal fear the traffic on Mount Gilboa will soon be getting worse—and that the Gilboa iris will pay the price. –ELI KINTISCH Flower power. Environmentalists want Israeli government to pay more heed to the Gilboa iris. Published by AAAS www.sciencemag.org CREDITS: K. BUCKHEIT/SCIENCE (MAP);YUVAL SAPIR (PHOTO) From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu May 26 20:13:59 2005 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: SIGNA Iris Species Database website Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 17:13:58 -0700 While looking up information on the Gilboa Iris (Iris haynei), Google gave me the Signa Iris Species Database website . However, maybe it should be called the Irid Database website because it coves more than just Iris species. Maybe it should be added as another resource at the bottom of the PBS wiki Genus Index page since it gives a fair number of good photos as well as plant information on a lot of non-Iris Irid species such as Alophia, Anomatheca, and a few Babiana, Calydorea, Moraea, Rigidella, etc., and of course lots of Iris species. Check it out. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 From vikingdoc@earthlink.net Thu May 26 20:52:07 2005 Message-Id: <410-2200555270537560@earthlink.net> From: "Kathy Stokmanis" Subject: Narcissus seed pods Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 17:53:07 -0700 What conditions are required for fertile seed set in Narcissus? I have 600 + bulbs, 36+ varieties and one pod that actually contains seeds. Most developed pods but aborted early or were empty upon examination. It was a wet spring with warm and cool periods following a very mild, wet winter. I observed insects flying from flower to flower and even hand-pollinated some. What went wrong? Too wet? Kathy Stokmanis Northern California, Sierrra foothills, zone 8, (Sunset zone 7 but not by my observations), very hot, long dry summers, mild wet winters, no snow this year. From dkramb@badbear.com Thu May 26 23:42:59 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050526233700.01d61d28@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: SIGNA Iris Species Database website Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 23:42:58 -0400 At 08:13 PM 5/26/2005, you wrote: >While looking up information on the Gilboa Iris (Iris haynei), Google gave >me the Signa Iris Species Database website >. However, maybe it >should be called the Irid Database website because it coves more than just >Iris species. Maybe it should be added as another resource at the bottom >of the PBS wiki Genus Index page since it gives a fair number of good >photos as well as plant information on a lot of non-Iris Irid species such >as Alophia, Anomatheca, and a few Babiana, Calydorea, Moraea, Rigidella, >etc., and of course lots of Iris species. >Check it out. > >--Lee Poulsen >Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 Thanks for the plug! And that's a good point about it being an Irid Database... I never thunk of it that way, really. I guess I'm thinking "Iris" as in the Family rather than the Genus. Dennis (the original badbear, LOL) From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu May 26 23:55:25 2005 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: mouldy Iris winogradowii Date: Thu, 26 May 2005 20:55:22 -0700 Last year a friend and I imported a bulb each of Iris winogradowii and potted them. Mine grew a bit, then stopped. When my friend's was in bloom, I tipped mine out to see what the trouble was, and found that the bulb was mouldy. I removed all the mouldy parts and repotted the leaves and what was left of the bulb. I have just tipped the pot out again. There is no sign of a bulb, but the leaves had a few dismal looking roots. Also in the pot were three thriving white roots that are growing new bits. I know that some plants have nodes along their roots so they can grow new plants from root pieces. What about bulbous iris? Any hope of my winogradowii appearing above ground sometime, or is it doomed to be subterranean? -- Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8 cool mediterranean climate (dry summer, rainy winter - 68 cm annually) sandy soil From dells@voicenet.com Fri May 27 06:24:53 2005 Message-Id: <20050527102452.E7F124C005@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Israeli Controversy Blossoms Over Protecting Gilboa Iris(Iris haynei) - Science Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 06:24:49 -0400 Michael Avishai used to order from the IBS Seed Exchange. Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Lee Poulsen Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2005 8:14 PM To: PBS Society Subject: [pbs] Israeli Controversy Blossoms Over Protecting Gilboa Iris(Iris haynei) - Science This article just showed up in this week's Science magazine. Does anyone grow Iris haynei? Is it difficult? How rare is it? Didn't Michael Avishai, the director of the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens mentioned in the article, used to be on one of the bulb lists? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena area, California, USDA Zone 9-10 ====================================== SCIENCE VOL 308 27 MAY 2005 p. 1251 Ecology Israeli Controversy Blossoms Over Protecting Gilboa Iris A proposed eco-friendly settlement on Mount Gilboa has enraged Israeli scientists,who say it will trample on a beloved national icon MOUNT GILBOA, ISRAEL---Every March, tourists clog the narrow road snaking up this mountain to enjoy the spectacular blooming of the purple Gilboa iris. But this year the rare flower, a national icon unique to the ridge, has also become a major bone of contention between settlers of a proposed ecofriendly town and Israeli scientists who call the settlement "an ecological crime." The fight is part of a larger battle over preserving open spaces in a country where environmental concerns often take a back seat to an Israeli imperative to build on the ancient land. The new settlement, called Michal, would sit atop the Gilboa ridge in northeastern Israel, just east of the West Bank. Two years ago, Israel's Nature and Parks Authority approved a plan to build 120 housing units on 0.15 square kilometers after the regional government agreed to set aside 63 sq. km., including the eastern slope of the ridge, as a permanent nature preserve. "Nature gets a lot," said an authority spokesperson. Settlers say they want to implement ambitious plans for energy-efficient homes, recycling, and the use of native plants. "We want to live with nature," says software engineer Aviv Harary, a community leader who notes that each iris in the path of the new settlement will be transplanted before construction begins. But a coalition of Israeli scientists has filed an off icial objection to the settlement, arguing that any construction, however benign, risks "total extinction" of the iris. They hope to influence the deliberations of Israel's national planning council, the last in a series of bureaucratic hurdles that must be cleared before construction can begin. The scientists are joined by the Society for Protection of Nature in Israel, which uses the iris in its logo and says the flower is one part of a distinctive blend of desert, steppe, and Mediterranean conditions on the mountain. Encouraged to come to the area by a regional government seeking new residents, the settlers chose this site because they were attracted by the region's beauty. They hope that Michal-through its domestic use of rainwater, buildings faced with recycled materials, and south-facing structures-will serve as a model for ecological living in Israel. Despite the green engineering of its buildings, opponents fear that the settlement will damage the local ecology. B e c a u s e the Gilboa, unlike most irises, cannot self-pollinate, the settlement will reduce crucial genetic diversity by isolating clusters of irises to the north and south, worries plant ecologist Yuval Sapir of Indiana University, Bloomington. In a letter leaked to the Israeli paper Ha'aretz last year, Nature and Parks Authority board science committee chair Tamar Dayan attacked the plans, saying that the light, pets, gardens, and utilities from the settlement could affect an area on the mountain 10 times larger than its footprint of homes. For example, the flower's pollinating insects might be forced to compete with other insects introduced by imported gardens and agriculture, says Michael Avishai, scientific director of the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens. Michal planner Chaim Shenhar replies that residents plan to protect the irises in their midst and that the settlement's footprint was even modified to avoid affecting areas of higher density. He also says that homeowners plan to cultivate local plants. Scientists are also unhappy with the arrangement to set aside land along the slopes of the mountain. They note that few irises grow in the protected areas. From an ecological perspective, says Tel Aviv University ecologist Yoram Yom-Tov, "[t]he top of the Gilboa is more important than the slopes." The leaked Dayan document asserted that the deal, approved by the authority's politically appointed board, was made "without scientif ic or professional backing." In response, the authority says it followed its normal practice on consultations. The proliferation of the irises along the streets and lawns of the nearby kibbutz Ma'ale Gilboa shows that humans and flowers can co-exist, says Dani Kamari, deputy head of the Bet She'an regional council, which welcomes the new settlement as a way to make existing education, health care, and garbage services more cost-efficient. "Some scientist sitting in Tel Aviv doesn't understand how people here live," he adds. Kamari acknowledges that the kibbutz, an Orthodox community, and two other nearby towns could use additional residents. But he notes that the Michal group prefers to live in its own, secular town. Opponents are asking prominent lawmakers to pressure the planning council, which is now reviewing comments before making a final decision. Likud legislator Omri Sharon, son of the prime minister, has already signaled his support. But in a country where development is a national priority, opponents of Michal fear the traffic on Mount Gilboa will soon be getting worse-and that the Gilboa iris will pay the price. -ELI KINTISCH Flower power. Environmentalists want Israeli government to pay more heed to the Gilboa iris. Published by AAAS www.sciencemag.org CREDITS: K. BUCKHEIT/SCIENCE (MAP);YUVAL SAPIR (PHOTO) _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dkramb@badbear.com Fri May 27 10:08:22 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050527100714.01ed7468@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: botrytis on Fritillaria Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 10:08:20 -0400 Forgive my ignorance but is botrytis the bacterial soft rot that is common on bearded irises? If so, the irises can recover quickly by cutting away the infected parts and bathing them bleach. Dennis in Cincinnati From dkramb@badbear.com Fri May 27 10:15:02 2005 Message-Id: <6.1.0.6.0.20050527101342.01dd1dc8@pop.bizland.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: mouldy Iris winogradowii Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 10:15:00 -0400 >I know that some plants have nodes along their roots so they can grow new >plants from root pieces. What about bulbous iris? Any hope of my >winogradowii appearing above ground sometime, or is it doomed to be >subterranean? I've never heard of Irises being able to do this. The only thing close I've heard of is that Iris danfordiae will sometimes form tiny bulbets off the main bulb, that in time will mature & bloom on their own. Dennis in Cincinnati From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri May 27 10:51:10 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: mouldy Iris winogradowii Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 14:51:08 +0000 >From: Dennis Kramb >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] mouldy Iris winogradowii >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 10:15:00 -0400 > > >>I know that some plants have nodes along their roots so they can grow new >>plants from root pieces. What about bulbous iris? Any hope of my >>winogradowii appearing above ground sometime, or is it doomed to be >>subterranean? Hi: In Junos it is very easy to obtain new bulbs from their roots. Each complete fleshy root will produce a new bulb at the point the root was attached to the original bulb. Of course the main bulb is not very happy with the proceeding. But of Reticulatas the only propagation method known is that mentioned by Dennis; reticulatas are notorious for developing fatal fungal spots. Formerly it was controlled by giving the dormant bulbs a formaldehide bath, that was replaced with Benlate that cured it completely but now Benlate is forbidden. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From john@johnlonsdale.net Fri May 27 11:19:55 2005 Message-Id: From: "John Lonsdale" Subject: mouldy Iris winogradowii Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 11:04:35 -0400 Iris winogradowii is a royal pain to grow! It is an alpine bulb and needs as cool as summer as possible without drying out much. Those sorts of bulbs don't like our eastern US summers, with attendant heat and humidity. I have it in a couple of spots and two of the bulbs flowered again this spring, to my surprise. They are in a bed with Trillium, Sanguinaria, Corydalis of the solida section, Frit. camschatcensis - things that want a cooler, dryer summer but not drought. The bed is in reasonable shade and in winter freezes solid - cold and ice is no problem! I hate to be the merchant of doom but I doubt you'll ever see this one above (or below) ground again. Good luck. J. From totototo@pacificcoast.net Fri May 27 18:04:33 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: mouldy Iris winogradowii Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 15:14:48 -0800 On 27 May 05 at 11:04, John Lonsdale wrote: > Iris winogradowii is a royal pain to grow! Quite the contrary! I've had it in pots for years and my main problem has been preventing excessive dessication during our dry summers. The best Iw ever did for me was in a large terra cotta pot plunged in a raised sand bed; every morning before I made tea I'd rush out the back door in my bathrobe and pour yesterday's cold tea on the pot. Worked great. A suggestion that might help others in unsuitable climates: when you plant your bulb(s) of Iw, completely surround the bulb with clean sand so it is not in direct contact with the soil, whether in a pot or in the open ground. I have the idea that this helps prevent fungi from getting to the bulb; and it certainly won't do any harm. BTW, pronunciamentation refresher: that specific epithet "winogradowii" is a Latinized version of the German transliteration of a Russian name. Say "vinogradovii". -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From mrgoldbear@yahoo.com Fri May 27 22:59:56 2005 Message-Id: <20050528025956.99522.qmail@web52101.mail.yahoo.com> From: David Sneddon Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) Howdy, I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to using chicken grit for hippeastrums. What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? Regards, David Central Coast, NSW, Australia. Zone 9/10. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From jlockwood@kalama.com Sat May 28 00:30:26 2005 Message-Id: <003d01c5633d$d3f0b690$2700a8c0@juliejphr6pd0t> From: "Julie" Subject: Cyclamen hederifolium seed ? Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 21:29:23 -0700 The seed pods on every one of my cyclamen hederifolium outside in pots are gone. The entire seed pod and there were a lot of them. :( The pods on the large tubers in the ground are still there and they are right next to the pots. The seed pods don't look very close to being ripe. Any suggestions on how to keep the rest of them from disappearing? Thank you. Julie Lockwood Shadylane Nursery Zone 8 www.shadylanenursery.com "To Plant a Seed is a Noble Deed - Propagation is Conservation" Norman C. Deno, Professor Emeritus of Chemistry From hyline@tampabay.rr.com Sat May 28 03:50:44 2005 Message-Id: <001601c5635a$010f17e0$6500a8c0@tampabay.rr.com> From: "Kevin D. Preuss" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 03:51:05 -0400 David, I believe that these are mesic forest dwellers and even climb up onto the base of trees and can be seen in crevices...quasi epiphytic. Old orchid mix w/ compost and sand and/or coir or orchid mix even with potting soil should work. They do not like to be too dry, as I have found out killing a batch of seedlings 5 yrs ago in a drought. this same mix works well for my Worsleya, too. I thinlk that these are two amaryllids like very little disturbance once established. best, Kevin D. Preuss www.Amaryllis-Plus.com From tglavich@sbcglobal.net Sat May 28 10:09:16 2005 Message-Id: <20050528140916.43236.qmail@web81609.mail.yahoo.com> From: Thomas Glavich Subject: Cyclamen hederifolium seed ? Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 07:09:16 -0700 (PDT) The quick solution is to get some screen copper if you can or aluminum, but use a metal, and make a tent over the plant. Cover the entire border(every inch) with bricks. This should stop birds and most rodents. Keep the screen at least a couple of inches away from the plant. Tom Julie wrote: The seed pods on every one of my cyclamen hederifolium outside in pots are gone. The entire seed pod and there were a lot of them. :( The pods on the large tubers in the ground are still there and they are right next to the pots. The seed pods don't look very close to being ripe. Any suggestions on how to keep the rest of them from disappearing? Thank you. Julie Lockwood Shadylane Nursery Zone 8 www.shadylanenursery.com "To Plant a Seed is a Noble Deed - Propagation is Conservation" Norman C. Deno, Professor Emeritus of Chemistry _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat May 28 10:28:15 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:28:14 +0000 >From: David Sneddon >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) > >Howdy, > >I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what >I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. >I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments >about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to >using chicken grit for hippeastrums. > >What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read >that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? > >Regards, >David Hi David: Cybister, argentinum, parodii and ambiguum are peculiar in that they always grow in full sun in the open. The region is droughtland with very little air humidity. The soil can be a mellow organic plus coarse sand "mix" or either different sizes of sands. In the wild they receive water from December to March at most in our Hemisphere (south) meaning that they spend part of spring under dry conditions. Dormancy is long ans in part of autumn, all winter and part of spring. Bulbs are found really deep in the ground and they must be allowed to develop the long neck they have in Nature. As for the mix it MUST contain crushed rock and different grit sizes to obtain the best of drainages. With such a long bulb it is easy that it rests on stagnant soil in a common pot with great risk of rot. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat May 28 12:20:30 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050528091855.010e2b58@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Cyclamen hederifolium seed ? Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 09:20:16 -0700 Julie asked, >The seed pods on every one of my cyclamen hederifolium outside in pots are >gone. The entire seed pod and there were a lot of them. :( The pods on >the large tubers in the ground are still there and they are right next to >the pots. > >The seed pods don't look very close to being ripe. Any suggestions on how >to keep the rest of them from disappearing? Cover the plant with a plastic mesh pot, mesh berry basket, strainer, or some other object that will keep birds and rodents away while still allowing air circulation to the ripening capsules. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat May 28 13:51:20 2005 Message-Id: <4298AF90.3000706@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:51:12 -0400 An updated image taken this morning. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Cardiocrinum Arnold New Jersey From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sat May 28 14:48:20 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$19o7q9@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:45:19 -0400 Very nice, Arnold: now I can't wait for the July update! Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Cardiocrinum giganteum is still years away from blooming but gets bigger yearly. From dells@voicenet.com Sat May 28 15:35:19 2005 Message-Id: <20050528193519.2456A4C006@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:28 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >From: David Sneddon >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) > >Howdy, > >I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what >I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. >I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments >about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to >using chicken grit for hippeastrums. > >What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read >that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? > >Regards, >David Hi David: Cybister, argentinum, parodii and ambiguum are peculiar in that they always grow in full sun in the open. The region is droughtland with very little air humidity. The soil can be a mellow organic plus coarse sand "mix" or either different sizes of sands. In the wild they receive water from December to March at most in our Hemisphere (south) meaning that they spend part of spring under dry conditions. Dormancy is long ans in part of autumn, all winter and part of spring. Bulbs are found really deep in the ground and they must be allowed to develop the long neck they have in Nature. As for the mix it MUST contain crushed rock and different grit sizes to obtain the best of drainages. With such a long bulb it is easy that it rests on stagnant soil in a common pot with great risk of rot. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mrgoldbear@yahoo.com Sat May 28 20:48:35 2005 Message-Id: <20050529004834.11076.qmail@web52108.mail.yahoo.com> From: David Sneddon Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:48:34 -0700 (PDT) Howdy, Thanks for your responses. I have a number of cybister seedlings and they are in a gritty mix. I find they are hesitant to become dormant and tolerate a little more moisture. The larger bulb I have is thoroughly intolerate of extra moisture. One or two waterings when it is dormant is enough to set in the rot. It should be noted that my climate is subtropical and quite wet nearlly all year. In fact my worsleya is a walk in the park to look after compared to H. cybister. The mix these came in when I purchased them appears to have beens: gritty small pebbles (2-3m) and sand (maybe river sand), vermiculite or perlite, and possibly a very small proportion of compost. Also slow release fertilizer had been added. Over-all the mixture was dense yet light and well draining. The pot for the larger bulb was the typical size in depth and circumference for a hippeastrum and the bulb seems to have done well (had put out a runner and was putting up a scarpe last year). It was planted with the shoulders just below the surface. After I accidently overwater this bulb I repotted it into a sharp mix of woodchips, pinebark, sand and compost however this year it grew OK but did not flourish as well as it had. I would not attempt to keep these growing after the leaves start dying back as they are not very forgiving of extra water. Also do not water them when leaves first appear, let them get a bit into growth before giving them a light watering. I have H. calyptratum growing from seed. I started them by wedging them into a sandy mix (50% sand, 50% compost) and they have been growing for over a year very happily. I trust they will determine at what depth they will go based on the mix and the environment. I'm told by others growing them that they are not epiipyhtic in this locality when in culture. Rgds, David. Central Coast, NSW, Australia. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses. From totototo@pacificcoast.net Sat May 28 20:07:22 2005 Message-Id: From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Cyclamen hederifolium seed ? Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:17:01 -0800 On 27 May 05 at 21:29, Julie wrote: > The seed pods on every one of my cyclamen hederifolium > outside in pots are gone... Any suggestions on how to > keep the rest of them from disappearing? Mouse traps. Rat poison. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat May 28 22:53:13 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 02:53:12 +0000 >From: "Dell Sherk" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 > >I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a >very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the >year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this >discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, >keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a >communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? >I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be >epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. > >Dell > Hi: Aulicum, calyptratum, Pamianthe and Worsleya are better grown on a mound of porous mix in a big tray. Calytratum IS an epiphytic in the wild and although the atmosphere is humid to allow the roots to survive in the air this also means that they receive an important air circulation around. As for vermiculite it is deceiving: after several waterings the little chunks start crumbling down and turn to an unhealthy dust that retains dangerous amounts of water. Coarse perlite and coarse pumice are a lot better. As for cybister, soils in the wild are alkaline and rich in microelements with little organic matter, typical of a desertic region. If the mix is well drained there is no danger of watering regularly while the plants are active during the warm season. More important is that they are not watered at all while dormant. Regards _________________________________________________________________ Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ From crinum@libero.it Sun May 29 04:33:01 2005 Message-Id: From: "crinum@libero.it" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 10:33:00 +0200 Dear Dell, do you have cybister to trade? Do you anyone that can? Ciao Alberto Italy ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : "Pacific Bulb Society" pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 Subject : RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a > very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the > year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this > discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, > keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a > communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? > I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be > epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. > > Dell > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo > Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:28 AM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > > > >From: David Sneddon > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) > > > >Howdy, > > > >I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what > >I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. > > >I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments > >about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to > >using chicken grit for hippeastrums. > > > >What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read > >that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? > > > >Regards, > >David > > > Hi David: > Cybister, argentinum, parodii and ambiguum are peculiar in that > they always grow in full sun in the open. The region is droughtland with > very little air humidity. The soil can be a mellow organic plus coarse > sand "mix" or either different sizes of sands. In the wild they receive > water from December to March at most in our Hemisphere (south) meaning that > they spend part of spring under dry conditions. Dormancy is long ans in part > > of autumn, all winter and part of spring. Bulbs are found really deep in the > > ground and they must be allowed to develop the long neck they have in > Nature. As for the mix it MUST contain crushed rock and different grit sizes > > to obtain the best of drainages. With such a long bulb it is easy that it > rests on stagnant soil in a common pot with great risk of rot. > Regards > Alberto > > _________________________________________________________________ > Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, > YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ____________________________________________________________ Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it From crinum@libero.it Sun May 29 04:40:14 2005 Message-Id: From: "crinum@libero.it" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 10:40:12 +0200 sorry. Alberto ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : "pbs" pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Sun, 29 May 2005 10:33:00 +0200 Subject : RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > Dear Dell, > do you have cybister to trade? Do you anyone that can? > Ciao > Alberto > Italy > > > ---------- Initial Header ----------- > > >From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > To : "Pacific Bulb Society" pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Cc : > Date : Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 > Subject : RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > > I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a > > very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the > > year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this > > discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, > > keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a > > communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? > > I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be > > epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. > > > > Dell > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > > On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo > > Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:28 AM > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > > > > > > > >From: David Sneddon > > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > >Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) > > > > > >Howdy, > > > > > >I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what > > >I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. > > > > >I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments > > >about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to > > >using chicken grit for hippeastrums. > > > > > >What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read > > >that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? > > > > > >Regards, > > >David > > > > > > Hi David: > > Cybister, argentinum, parodii and ambiguum are peculiar in that > > they always grow in full sun in the open. The region is droughtland with > > very little air humidity. The soil can be a mellow organic plus coarse > > sand "mix" or either different sizes of sands. In the wild they receive > > water from December to March at most in our Hemisphere (south) meaning that > > they spend part of spring under dry conditions. Dormancy is long ans in part > > > > of autumn, all winter and part of spring. Bulbs are found really deep in the > > > > ground and they must be allowed to develop the long neck they have in > > Nature. As for the mix it MUST contain crushed rock and different grit sizes > > > > to obtain the best of drainages. With such a long bulb it is easy that it > > rests on stagnant soil in a common pot with great risk of rot. > > Regards > > Alberto > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, > > YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > Alberto Grossi > Italy > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. > Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ____________________________________________________________ Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it From marie-paule.opdenakker@pandora.be Sun May 29 06:00:45 2005 Message-Id: <001701c56435$3b27b730$305ea551@kieken> From: "Marie-Paule" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 12:00:23 +0200 Hello, I saw the word pamianthe in your text,my question is now,how many times must I water pamianthe?once a week once every 2 weeks,the summers are not so hot in Belgium.The winters last long.It starts in October and finishes in March.And how many degrees can have the pamianthe in winter?apology for a lot of questions of me,but I am really a beginner in looking after so many splendid bulbs,You speak all from so much experience,but for me it is a source of good information. Regards, Marie-Paule ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alberto Castillo" To: Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 4:53 AM Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > > >From: "Dell Sherk" > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > >Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > >Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 > > > >I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a > >very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the > >year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this > >discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, > >keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a > >communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? > >I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be > >epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. > > > >Dell > > > > > Hi: > Aulicum, calyptratum, Pamianthe and Worsleya are better grown on a mound > of porous mix in a big tray. Calytratum IS an epiphytic in the wild and > although the atmosphere is humid to allow the roots to survive in the air > this also means that they receive an important air circulation around. As > for vermiculite it is deceiving: after several waterings the little chunks > start crumbling down and turn to an unhealthy dust that retains dangerous > amounts of water. Coarse perlite and coarse pumice are a lot better. > As for cybister, soils in the wild are alkaline and rich in microelements > with little organic matter, typical of a desertic region. If the mix is well > drained there is no danger of watering regularly while the plants are active > during the warm season. More important is that they are not watered at all > while dormant. > Regards > > _________________________________________________________________ > Charla con tus amigos en línea mediante MSN Messenger: > http://messenger.latam.msn.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From dells@voicenet.com Sun May 29 07:11:03 2005 Message-Id: <20050529111103.D733C4C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 07:11:02 -0400 Dear Alberto, I'll let you know when I repot. Ciao, Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of crinum@libero.it Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2005 4:33 AM To: pbs Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Dear Dell, do you have cybister to trade? Do you anyone that can? Ciao Alberto Italy ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : "Pacific Bulb Society" pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Cc : Date : Sat, 28 May 2005 15:35:13 -0400 Subject : RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > I have been growing my cybister seedlings very much on the dry side in a > very gritty mix with silty soil. They are dormant for three quarters of the > year, and, after three or more years, are still very small. After this > discussion, I think I will repot them into another sharply draining medium, > keep them active for longer, and feed them more. At present, they grow in a > communal long-tom pot. Did I miss anything? > I am also wondering about growing H. calyptratum, which is said to be > epiphytic like H. cybister isn't, I guess. > > Dell > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo > Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:28 AM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > > > > >From: David Sneddon > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix > >Date: Fri, 27 May 2005 19:59:56 -0700 (PDT) > > > >Howdy, > > > >I'm thinking of repotting cybisters and want to use a better mix than what > >I have now which is sharp but better suited to forest growing hippeastrums. > > >I was thinking of introducing some chicken grit. I'd appreciate comments > >about what works for other people for this species and any comments as to > >using chicken grit for hippeastrums. > > > >What do these plants grow in, in their native habitat, did I see or read > >that it is a heavy type of sand, in mountain and with very little rainfall? > > > >Regards, > >David > > > Hi David: > Cybister, argentinum, parodii and ambiguum are peculiar in that > they always grow in full sun in the open. The region is droughtland with > very little air humidity. The soil can be a mellow organic plus coarse > sand "mix" or either different sizes of sands. In the wild they receive > water from December to March at most in our Hemisphere (south) meaning that > they spend part of spring under dry conditions. Dormancy is long ans in part > > of autumn, all winter and part of spring. Bulbs are found really deep in the > > ground and they must be allowed to develop the long neck they have in > Nature. As for the mix it MUST contain crushed rock and different grit sizes > > to obtain the best of drainages. With such a long bulb it is easy that it > rests on stagnant soil in a common pot with great risk of rot. > Regards > Alberto > > _________________________________________________________________ > Las mejores tiendas, los precios mas bajos, entregas en todo el mundo, > YupiMSN Compras: http://latam.msn.com/compras/ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy ____________________________________________________________ Navighi a 4 MEGA e i primi 3 mesi sono GRATIS. Scegli Libero Adsl Flat senza limiti su http://www.libero.it _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@starpower.net Sun May 29 11:28:38 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$16oi9o@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 11:28:38 -0400 Alberto wrote "better grown on a mound of porous mix in a big tray." Alberto, this sounds interesting. Can you elaborate? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I still remember the peculiar fragrance of the pale green flowers of Hippeastrum calyptrata raised by a friend decades ago from seed supplied by Park Seed Co. From hyline@tampabay.rr.com Sun May 29 12:28:14 2005 Message-Id: <000401c5646b$696a9c80$6600a8c0@Hymenocallis> From: "Kevin D. Preuss" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 12:28:13 -0400 To all, sorry I confused the issue, thinking about H. calyptratum instead of cybister. These seem to be two of more challenging species to grow, let alone flower. Even some Cybister hybrids come out later and some are not up yet. The species is a gem. I killed my only cybister seedlings five years ago and have not had either plant bloom since...it must've been the move from Gainesville to Tampa that triggered it. That moved killed the seedlings as humid salt air did not agree with them. Now I am growing them in coir, crushed/washed lava rock and sand in clay containers and they tolerate it. The clayptratum, for me, is grown on a simalr mix, but more coir and maybe even some peat and pine bark. As for pamianth these mixes and humidity killed mine. Gee, it sounds like I've killed many a good species. Well, that is how ya learn! Kevin Preuss - hot and dry in Florida! but Leptochiton quitoensis is blooming! From dells@voicenet.com Sun May 29 15:02:00 2005 Message-Id: <20050529190200.4D9904C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 15:01:56 -0400 Dear Alberto, I repotted my H. cybisters today, and discovered that I have killed all but three, so I am sorry to say that I cannot offer you any. Why not post a general request to the PBS group? I am sure there are a bunch of people who grow it. Ciao, Dell From haweha@hotmail.com Sun May 29 16:34:20 2005 Message-Id: From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 20:34:18 +0000 I am growing H.cybister "Chico" with geat success. Funy; I never performed so much thoughts what substrate should be used! I use coco peat prepared from these "coco bricks" for all my 4- and 2-ploid hippeastrums, including H.aulicum v.robustum. I can only praise it for its outstanding properties in cleanlyness from dirt, pests and diseases, its easy handling and its physical property of softness and structure stability, yes; and extreme fast water motility. As I learnt from elsewhere http://www.amaryllidaceae.org/Hippeastrum/cybister.htm both H."Chico" and H."Reggae" are selections of the "true" species H.cybister and therefore I can with full right transmit my experience from Chico in order to make a proposal for the substrate question as regards to the species. I wrote about H.cybister"Chico" in the GardenWeb http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bulbs/gal0316164530579.html?6 I combine and I recommend a 3-action strategy: use of coco substrate; carefull watering FROM THE BOTTOM (every 2nd day) and applying dilute feeding with every watering. My experiences indicate that the watering technique has a greater influence on cultivation success than the use of a high-sophistically formulated substrate. H.cybister is not such a heavy water consumer. The surface of the substrate should remain completely dry (bright). Dark wet spots on the surface indicate overwateríng. It is clear that exlusive watering from the bottom can only be performed under glass or indoors. On the other hand, considering that the majority of commerciably available hippeastrum bulbs is infested with the tarsonemid mite, the bulb scale mite Steneotarsonermus laticeps, it is not wise to let EVER get water into the heart of the plant... Yes H.cybister is a tiny treasure which is worth not to be let stood in the rain... Hans-Werner From jshields@indy.net Sun May 29 19:46:44 2005 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20050529183515.00b0a040@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 18:46:45 -0500 Hans-Werner, Can you recommend agents to control or kill the bulb mites? Are things like Avid (Abamectin) and Kelthane (Dicofol) save to use on Hippeastrum bulbs? Where are you growing your Hippeastrum, in Europe? Jim Shields in central Indiana (USA) At 08:34 PM 5/29/2005 +0000, you wrote: >I am growing H.cybister "Chico" with geat success. >.......... >On the other hand, considering that the majority of commerciably available >hippeastrum bulbs is infested with the tarsonemid mite, the bulb scale >mite Steneotarsonermus laticeps, it is not wise to let EVER get water into >the heart of the plant... >Yes H.cybister is a tiny treasure which is worth not to be let stood in >the rain... > >Hans-Werner ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From haweha@hotmail.com Sun May 29 21:32:58 2005 Message-Id: From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" Subject: Bulb Scale Mite on Hippeastrum Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 01:32:56 +0000 Hello Jim; I live and I grow my hippeastrums in Germany. I regret that I can not offer anything for the GROWING crop (nota bene) which is fully endorsed by legality for the private gardener: Dicofol ( in Kethane) is no more allowed in Germany and Avermectines (in Abamectin) is not accessible for the private gardener. Oxydemeton-methyl (a phosphorous-organic pesticide; in Metasystox-Spezial, from Bayer) works and its use is principally legal for ornamentals outdoors but it has to be used at the at less two- better 4-fold concentration compared to the recommended. AND it has to be sprayed repeatedly BECAUSE you can not eradicate these mites with it - although it is a systemic pesticide. You can never obtain a sufficient agent concentrations in the older bulb scale parts where the bulk of mites live and from where they emerge to seek for new life space. But you can sufficiently protect the new growth by spraying into the heart of the plant. In autumn when I harvest my bulbs I treat them mechanically against these 8 legged critters. I first cut the leaves at a rather high level, then remove all loose parts on the substrate surface and all dry and loose matter of the bulbs, then I make the final clean cut to keep only a rather short bulb neck and immediately spray with 10 % non drying oil in isopropanol. I use JoJoba oil, medium light mineral oil works, too. I spray on the wound and on the cleaned bulb and the substrate surface (My bulbs stay in the grow boxes, keeping the roots undisturbed, during the winter reposal. There is no hope that removing the soil has any curing effect on the bulbs The spraying procedure has to be repeated several times during the winter reposal because new spaces open between the leaf bases as the bulbs dry. Spraying must be thorough but still so superficially that the bulk of roots does not get affected. The only eradicative means is the Hot Water Treatment. It is a well known and simple procedure but depends on precise laboratory (or technical) equipment. It is only performed on bulbs after the growth season. It removes red blotch, eelworms and mites (but not virus). A disadvantage is that the roots have to be removed before or are killed during the HWT. The bud initials are usually not killed after 46 degC / 2 h treatment. Reinfection from the environment is to be expected with high probability, yes, sorry; I had my experiences in that, too... Seedlings of amaryllid plants should be raised as far away as possible from adult plants in order to stay completely free from this pest as long as possible. All the world is worrying about the red blotch: I never experienced red blotch to develop on uninfested gardener's amaryllis bulbs. Red blotch is "solely" a secondary infestation by the opportunistic Stagonospora although it can become deadly for amaryllis bulbs particularly in cold wet weather in autumn. It seems that all knight star bulbs from commercial sources are infested with mites. My experience, sorry. I worry about the mite, not about red blotch. Hans-Werner >From: "J.E. Shields" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 18:46:45 -0500 > >Hans-Werner, > >Can you recommend agents to control or kill the bulb mites? Are things >like Avid (Abamectin) and Kelthane (Dicofol) save to use on Hippeastrum >bulbs? > >Where are you growing your Hippeastrum, in Europe? > >Jim Shields From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun May 29 22:15:47 2005 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 02:15:42 +0000 >From: "J.E. Shields" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: RE: [pbs] Hippeastrum Cybister Potting Mix >Date: Sun, 29 May 2005 18:46:45 -0500 > > >Can you recommend agents to control or kill the bulb mites? Are things >like Avid (Abamectin) and Kelthane (Dicofol) save to use on Hippeastrum >bulbs? > >Jim Shields >in central Indiana (USA) Hi Jim: Ethylic alcohol and water is very effective against most (if not all) insects and mites. It is cheap, not pollutant, easy to apply, etc., etc. Regards Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Consigue aquí las mejores y mas recientes ofertas de trabajo en América Latina y USA: http://latam.msn.com/empleos/ From lwallpe@juno.com Mon May 30 04:46:09 2005 Message-Id: <20050530.014511.16051.202269@webmail28.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: daffodil seed set Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 08:44:49 GMT List Members, Someone wrote and asked about pollination of daffodils (sorry, forgot to note who!) On another list a friend posted this from this spring's experience. Thought it might be of interest and permission was given to share it. Linda W. ========================= I didn't make any early crosses, but I found I have a lot of OP seed on flowers like Small Talk and Little Beauty. This is probably due to the extremely hot weather we had while these were in bloom, but it was my understanding that in the very dry weather which we had, the pollen has nothing to grow on because the stigmatic fluid dries up so fast. I'm not sure why I had so many OP seed capsules. I don't usually have much OP seed here, so this year is a first. The funny thing is I thought they were some of the false pregnancies that Henry H was talking about and didn't watch them closely. Capsules have split and only a few seeds remained in the bottom. By the time I noticed them...the rest will come up where they're not wanted! (And probably do better than the cosseted ones in my seed flats!) I used to deadhead the standards, but realized I was wasting my time because they just looked pregnant (were actually sterile). Becky, you might try the sugar-water solution that Lawrence T. wrote about in the one of the past Journals to get a heavier seed set. I did it and it really worked. It amounts to dissolving about a teaspoon of sugar in a cup or so of water and sort of painting that solution onto the stigmas before pollinating. You need to let it drip dry for a while if you plan to use pollen on more than one flower or the pollen gets wrecked. Or maybe I'm just heavy handed. I should probably use a Q-tip instead of a paint brush! In any case, I went from 1-5 seeds to numbers at least in the teens when I used the sugar water solution. Oh, and the stigma is a three-dimensional knob. Make sure the sugar water gets on the back of the knob, and the sides as well as the front. Then make sure the pollen gets all over, too. It was a tip from Mrs. Link I thought I'd pass on. Suzy ___________________________________________________________________ Get Juno Platinum for as low as $4.97/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 250MB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/half to sign up today! From davidxvictor-0E4J2A4g8stslNChl+Vv6eBvJtfoikf@mailblocks.com Mon May 30 06:23:36 2005 Message-Id: From: David Victor Subject: Mystery Hippeastrum Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 11:17:41 +0100 Hi there Kevin and Jim, Many thanks for your thoughts on my mystery bulb at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs I'm sorry that I have been slow in replying, but I was off the air for a while. The flowers do have a greenish centre to them, though they are over now so its too late to send a further shot. So, I guess that it is save to call it H. sp. aff. mandoni for the moment. It seems to be a good year for flowering amaryllids here. I've had a great H. stylosum in flower for the past week and Phaedranassa viridiflora. Also, the Tropaeolum, Bomarea and Alstromeria are all flowering well. Having said that, our last frost was only this last week! Thanks again for your help. Best regards, David Victor From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon May 30 15:36:48 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050530123600.01126568@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Iris wilsonii Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 12:36:46 -0700 A researcher in Portland, near where I live, is looking for tissue samples of Iris wilsonii, preferably with documentation of the plant's wild source. Can anyone help? THanks, Jane McGary From arnold@nj.rr.com Mon May 30 19:29:03 2005 Message-Id: <429BA1BD.50603@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: mystery hippeastrum Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 19:29:01 -0400 From Osmani Baullosa http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs Arnold From msittner@mcn.org Mon May 30 22:48:01 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050530191117.01ff3530@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 19:44:16 -0700 Hi, As more and more people look to the PBS wiki as an authority I find it a bit of a challenge knowing which names we should be using to identify our plants. In the past I've heard people complain about all the incorrect information that can be found on the Internet and am much more sympathetic. We have discussed before that many of us are gardeners, not taxonomists and we know the plants by the names that were attached to them when we acquired them. Since there is not agreement even among the experts and there are constant changes, some accepted and some not, even if you have a set of reference books you trust, it is not simple. With that background I'd like to share with you some questions I sent to Jane McGary, Arnold Trachtenberg, and John Lonsdale. We have Colchicum pictures from the three of them that I am puzzled about. Jane has said I could share her answers with the group. She writes: "Mary Sue had a number of questions about nomenclature in Colchicum. My understanding is that this genus is presently undergoing a rather massive revision. A number of new species have been named by Karen Persson (not sure of spelling of her name), and I heard a couple of years ago that Christopher Brickell was planning a monograph. Thus, it's not likely that we can put "real" names on all the photos that are on the wiki. I'd suggest that most of them be left with the names the contributors have for them, with remarks added that nomenclature of a given species, or complex, is presently under study, and that names are much confused in cultivation." There are still a few questions I need help with and I thought some of you might find Jane and Arnold's answers interesting so I am including them. The answer is from Jane unless indicated otherwise. If any of you can help with this I'd appreciate it. 1. We have two pictures, one from Jane and one from John of C. boissieri. We also have a picture from Arnold of C. procurrens that some of my sources say is a synonym for this. Should Arnold's picture be renamed and put with the others? ANSWER : The plants that I'm growing under these two names appear distinct to me, though they have obvious similarities such as a peculiar corm shape. Arnold may have received C. procurrens from me. Could either of you provide text to explain about C. procurrens? 2. We have a number of pictures of Colchicum cupanii and subspecies of the same. I can't find much about these subspecies. Can you provide any information? Should we list the pictures of C. cupanii ssp. glossophyllum under C. cupanii or C. glossophyllum? ANSWER : This is one of the really confusing groups. I would keep these two separate for now. In particular, the name C. cupanii seems to be applied in cultivation to two very different plants, both of which I'm growing. What I have as C. glossophyllum is distinct from either in its flowering time, if not in other particulars. Brickell (in the AGS Encyclopaedia of Alpines) regards glossophyllum as a subspecies of cupanii. As an example of how people use our wiki I found this: http://www.maltawildplants.com/CLCH/Colchicum_cupanii.html This man discusses Jane's picture and even links to it. 3. Colchicum major I can't find, but I can find Colchicum autumnale 'Major'. Is there a species major or is this a cultivar of another species and should be moved? ANSWER: I haven't seen this as a valid name anywhere. The pictured plant could be C. autumnale, which is described as "occasionally tessellated." Anyone else know of a C. major or think that Arnold's picture is of Colchicum autumnale 'Major'? 4. Colchicum pannonicum has a note written next to it by Jim McKenney I suspect saying that this plant is now regarded as a clonal selection of C. autumnale and has the cultivar name 'Nancy Lindsay'. Should we change it or is that note sufficient? ANSWER: I would leave the note, because apparently there are several of these purple-tubed C. autumnale forms around, and I'm told the form is common in the wild in certain areas. Probably not all such plants are the clone 'Nancy Lindsay', though many of them probably are. From Arnold: "C. pannonicum named for Pannonia which is an ancient name for what is now part Hungary. Mathew say in his Bulb Newsletter that it is "so similar that they could be part of the same clone as 'Nancy Lindsay'. He also says it is a 'plant very much like C. autumnale' Chris Brickell, in his account of Colchicum for Flora Europaea, decided to sink the species into C. autumanale. Mathew says " So, unless new field studies of the colchicums in this area indicate otherwise, the situation is that the excellent plant which is being distributed as C. pannonicum appears to be a very nice color variant of the very widespread C. autumnale." 5. Colchicum sibthorpii my sources say should be C. bivonae. Would you look at Arnold's pictures and let me know if they need to be renamed. No answer to this last question. Can anyone help? Mary Sue From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Tue May 31 08:16:02 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050531141404.01f6ae88@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: mystery hippeastrum Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 14:15:29 +0200 At 01:29 31-05-2005, Arnold Trachtenberg wrote: From Osmani Baullosa > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > >Arnold >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php I grow these striped amaryllis indoors, since I live in Denmark. What do you want to know about them? I plant all amaryllis (and other bulbs and indoor plants) in my pure compost I make. Carol From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue May 31 08:18:47 2005 Message-Id: <429C55E6.5040102@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: mystery hippeastrum Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 08:17:42 -0400 Carol: If you could tell us the name of the pictured amaryllis that would be great. Arnold From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue May 31 08:59:20 2005 Message-Id: <3u3gb7$1all2v@smtp05.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 08:59:18 -0400 Mary Sue asked (and in #3 Jane McGary responded): >3. Colchicum major I can't find, but I can find Colchicum autumnale >'Major'. Is there a species major or is this a cultivar of another species >and should be moved? >ANSWER: I haven't seen this as a valid name anywhere. The pictured plant >could be C. autumnale, which is described as "occasionally tessellated." >Anyone else know of a C. major or think that Arnold's picture is of >Colchicum autumnale 'Major'? Isn't Colchicum autumnale 'Major' an old commercial name for C. byzantinum? Also, Arnold's Colchicum major looks like C. byzantimum to me; Angelo's C. byzantinum looks like something else, maybe C. cilicicum. Take all of that with a generous grain of salt: I would not want to have to make a living by correctly identifying Colchicum. And >4. Colchicum pannonicum has a note written next to it by Jim McKenney I >suspect saying that this plant is now regarded as a clonal selection of C. >autumnale and has the cultivar name 'Nancy Lindsay'. Should we change it or >is that note sufficient? I can't claim that one - it's not from me. Who is the mystery JM? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the colchicum are beginning to yellow and die down. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Monday, May 30, 2005 10:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Colchicum questions Hi, As more and more people look to the PBS wiki as an authority I find it a bit of a challenge knowing which names we should be using to identify our plants. In the past I've heard people complain about all the incorrect information that can be found on the Internet and am much more sympathetic. We have discussed before that many of us are gardeners, not taxonomists and we know the plants by the names that were attached to them when we acquired them. Since there is not agreement even among the experts and there are constant changes, some accepted and some not, even if you have a set of reference books you trust, it is not simple. With that background I'd like to share with you some questions I sent to Jane McGary, Arnold Trachtenberg, and John Lonsdale. We have Colchicum pictures from the three of them that I am puzzled about. Jane has said I could share her answers with the group. She writes: "Mary Sue had a number of questions about nomenclature in Colchicum. My understanding is that this genus is presently undergoing a rather massive revision. A number of new species have been named by Karen Persson (not sure of spelling of her name), and I heard a couple of years ago that Christopher Brickell was planning a monograph. Thus, it's not likely that we can put "real" names on all the photos that are on the wiki. I'd suggest that most of them be left with the names the contributors have for them, with remarks added that nomenclature of a given species, or complex, is presently under study, and that names are much confused in cultivation." There are still a few questions I need help with and I thought some of you might find Jane and Arnold's answers interesting so I am including them. The answer is from Jane unless indicated otherwise. If any of you can help with this I'd appreciate it. 1. We have two pictures, one from Jane and one from John of C. boissieri. We also have a picture from Arnold of C. procurrens that some of my sources say is a synonym for this. Should Arnold's picture be renamed and put with the others? ANSWER : The plants that I'm growing under these two names appear distinct to me, though they have obvious similarities such as a peculiar corm shape. Arnold may have received C. procurrens from me. Could either of you provide text to explain about C. procurrens? 2. We have a number of pictures of Colchicum cupanii and subspecies of the same. I can't find much about these subspecies. Can you provide any information? Should we list the pictures of C. cupanii ssp. glossophyllum under C. cupanii or C. glossophyllum? ANSWER : This is one of the really confusing groups. I would keep these two separate for now. In particular, the name C. cupanii seems to be applied in cultivation to two very different plants, both of which I'm growing. What I have as C. glossophyllum is distinct from either in its flowering time, if not in other particulars. Brickell (in the AGS Encyclopaedia of Alpines) regards glossophyllum as a subspecies of cupanii. As an example of how people use our wiki I found this: http://www.maltawildplants.com/CLCH/Colchicum_cupanii.html This man discusses Jane's picture and even links to it. 3. Colchicum major I can't find, but I can find Colchicum autumnale 'Major'. Is there a species major or is this a cultivar of another species and should be moved? ANSWER: I haven't seen this as a valid name anywhere. The pictured plant could be C. autumnale, which is described as "occasionally tessellated." Anyone else know of a C. major or think that Arnold's picture is of Colchicum autumnale 'Major'? 4. Colchicum pannonicum has a note written next to it by Jim McKenney I suspect saying that this plant is now regarded as a clonal selection of C. autumnale and has the cultivar name 'Nancy Lindsay'. Should we change it or is that note sufficient? ANSWER: I would leave the note, because apparently there are several of these purple-tubed C. autumnale forms around, and I'm told the form is common in the wild in certain areas. Probably not all such plants are the clone 'Nancy Lindsay', though many of them probably are. From Arnold: "C. pannonicum named for Pannonia which is an ancient name for what is now part Hungary. Mathew say in his Bulb Newsletter that it is "so similar that they could be part of the same clone as 'Nancy Lindsay'. He also says it is a 'plant very much like C. autumnale' Chris Brickell, in his account of Colchicum for Flora Europaea, decided to sink the species into C. autumanale. Mathew says " So, unless new field studies of the colchicums in this area indicate otherwise, the situation is that the excellent plant which is being distributed as C. pannonicum appears to be a very nice color variant of the very widespread C. autumnale." 5. Colchicum sibthorpii my sources say should be C. bivonae. Would you look at Arnold's pictures and let me know if they need to be renamed. No answer to this last question. Can anyone help? Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue May 31 10:53:43 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050531074805.010957d8@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 07:53:37 -0700 On the outstanding colchicum questions, my sources all list C. sibthorpii as an invalid synonym of C. bivonae, and the photo on the wiki could be C. bivonae, which is, however, qutie variable at least as described in the older literature; it may now be split up some. I looked at the website Mary Sue mentioned showing lots of photos of C. cupanii on Malta. I'm growing two plants under this name, one acquired from England as a bulb and one grown from seed from a Czech list. The seed-grown one looks fairly typical, and the one acquired as a builb has white flowers. The latter's color led me to suspect it was misnamed, but its pollen is yellow, and all the other miniature, fall-flowering, white-flowered colchicums I can find out about have dark anthers (e.g., C. hungaricum, which I think I have with a good identification). The leaves of the white one are correct for C. cupanii, so perhaps it's just a white form. I hope to offer it on this summer's bulb list, but I'll include my doubts about identification. It is a very good grower in the bulb frame but has not survived in the open rock garden. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue May 31 11:45:41 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$17berj@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 11:42:38 -0400 Jane McGary wrote: >C. cupanii... is a very good grower in the bulb frame but has not survived >in the open rock garden. Jane, you've mentioned this circumstance ( "has not survived in the open rock garden")in a number of postings about other bulbs in the past. This intrigues me. It helps to know when bulbs die (when it can be determined). Here on the east coast, many bulbs don't make it through the summers in the garden. Some don't make it through the winters. It helps to know when they run into trouble. Last year, I was unpleasantly surprised to find some tulips in a raised bed rotting in early June. Many colchicum do the same thing. Because so many of us grow bulbs from you, your experiences are particularly significant. It's a mystery to me, for instance, why Crocus goulimyi is an easy garden plant here but will not do for you as a garden plant. I'm tempted to offer you corms ripened here in Maryland to see if those would survive at least the first Oregon winter. But I can understand why you might eschew corms from a notorious botrytis sump and do your own experimentation. Can you tell us more about why you think Colchicum cupanii fails in the open rock garden? And maybe tell us a bit more in general about the problems peculiar to your climate? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the roses on the pergola are beginning to bloom freely. From ang.por@alice.it Tue May 31 11:49:57 2005 Message-Id: <002e01c565f8$7d7d8500$04103b52@t7t2y7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Hippeastrum ID again Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 17:50:37 +0200 Last year a friend brought back some Hippeastrum bulbs he found in his holidays in Mexico (Yucatan) and I got one. Now this year it has flowerd and I was very curious to see how it looked like. With a bit of disappointing, it is just the very same plant I found years ago around here http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippeastrum4.jpg I suspect it is a pure species, because of its small size of the flowers, which are 12-14cm across, usually 2 or rarely 3 per scape. Anthers are purple before opening and it has no scent at all and there's a well visible red 'eye' at the base of tepals. It set seeds on its own and germinates easily too. I would guess it was a puniceum, but all the photos I see are more orange than mine. Any idea? best regards Angelo Porcelli Italy From jimmckenney@starpower.net Tue May 31 12:00:16 2005 Message-Id: <3u3f9p$17bn70@smtp04.mrf.mail.rcn.net> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 12:00:13 -0400 Jane used a locution in her reply on Colchicum which raises a question for me. She wrote: " my sources all list C. sibthorpii as an invalid synonym of C. bivonae" The question concerns this phrase "invalid synonym". Shouldn't we simply say "synonym"? Isn't Colcchicum sibthorpii a validly published name? It may not be the current "correct" name, but it is a validly published name. And plants can have any number of validly published names, can't they? And plants can have invalid names, too - that's where "invalid synonym" might come in handy. Or is Jane telling us that the name Colchicum sibthorpii has somehow been invalidated? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@starpower.net Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Antonio de Bivona-Bernardi's colchicum is esteemed under any name. From jonathan@terraviva.agr.br Tue May 31 12:38:03 2005 Message-Id: <000801c565ff$660c86d0$6d01a8c0@terraviva.com.br> From: "Jonathan" Subject: About Cyrtanthus. Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 13:40:04 -0300 Dear Bill Dijk, My name is Jonathan Alex Wigman. I live in Holambra, a little city near São Paulo, from Brazil Cuntry, and hier, we produce a lot of kind of flowers. I work in a farm that calls Terra Viva, and my setor is flower bulbs. We produce best amaryllis, but now i´m making test to try to produce another kind of bulbs, and these days came one conteiner from South Africa ,with some kind of bulbs. I wanna question you, if you have some information about cultivation from Cyrthantus Brachysciphus, C. Mackineii yelloow, C. mackeneii pink, C. makeneii mixed, C. contractus, C. Breviflorus, C. lipstick and C. veld fire. I wanna know something about time of planting (winter, summer, spring, autun), quantity of light, quantity of water. I´ve recived too bulbs from Boophane Distichya, Agapanthus, Littonia Modesta, Ascencion Lily. Do you know something about these species too? I´ve hope that you can help me, and i want to thank from now. Best wishes Jonathan Alex Wigman From jorna@mobilixnet.dk Tue May 31 13:00:13 2005 Message-Id: <6.0.1.1.0.20050531185457.01e822d8@mail.mobilixnet.dk> From: Carol Jensen Subject: Bulb Scale Mite on Hippeastrum Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 18:58:44 +0200 At 03:32 30-05-2005, Hans-Werner Hammen wrote: >Hello Jim; > >I live and I grow my hippeastrums in Germany. > >I regret that I can not offer anything for the GROWING crop (nota bene) which is fully endorsed by legality for the private gardener: > >Dicofol ( in Kethane) is no more allowed in Germany and Avermectines (in Abamectin) is not accessible for the private gardener. > >Oxydemeton-methyl (a phosphorous-organic pesticide; in Metasystox-Spezial, from Bayer) works and its use is principally legal for ornamentals outdoors but it has to be used at the at less two- better 4-fold concentration compared to the recommended. AND it has to be sprayed repeatedly BECAUSE you can not eradicate these mites with it - although it is a systemic pesticide. You can never obtain a sufficient agent concentrations in the older bulb scale parts where the bulk of mites live and from where they emerge to seek for new life space. But you can sufficiently protect the new growth by spraying into the heart of the plant. > >In autumn when I harvest my bulbs I treat them mechanically against these 8 legged critters. I first cut the leaves at a rather high level, then remove all loose parts on the substrate surface and all dry and loose matter of the bulbs, then I make the final clean cut to keep only a rather short bulb neck and immediately spray with 10 % non drying oil in isopropanol. I use JoJoba oil, medium light mineral oil works, too. > >I spray on the wound and on the cleaned bulb and the substrate surface (My bulbs stay in the grow boxes, keeping the roots undisturbed, during the winter reposal. There is no hope that removing the soil has any curing effect on the bulbs The spraying procedure has to be repeated several times during the winter reposal because new spaces open between the leaf bases as the bulbs dry. Spraying must be thorough but still so superficially that the bulk of roots does not get affected. > >The only eradicative means is the Hot Water Treatment. It is a well known and simple procedure but depends on precise laboratory (or technical) equipment. It is only performed on bulbs after the growth season. It removes red blotch, eelworms and mites (but not virus). A disadvantage is that the roots have to be removed before or are killed during the HWT. The bud initials are usually not killed after 46 degC / 2 h treatment. > >Reinfection from the environment is to be expected with high probability, yes, sorry; I had my experiences in that, too... > >Seedlings of amaryllid plants should be raised as far away as possible from adult plants in order to stay completely free from this pest as long as possible. > >All the world is worrying about the red blotch: I never experienced red blotch to develop on uninfested gardener's amaryllis bulbs. Red blotch is "solely" a secondary infestation by the opportunistic Stagonospora although it can become deadly for amaryllis bulbs particularly in cold wet weather in autumn. > >It seems that all knight star bulbs from commercial sources are infested with mites. My experience, sorry. I worry about the mite, not about red blotch. > >Hans-Werner Hi Hans-Werner, I keep my bulbs indoors all year, though they could be planted outdoors. I have lost amaryllis which died down before I knew it in autumn. I have had red blotch and it is not so bad, but I cure it by cutting off the infected part and drying the bulb for a month or so. Never had any mites or other problems, and I have loads and loads of amaryllis, also sidebulbs, also bulbs from San Diego. I plant every indoor plant in my own compost and they grow wonderfully and are healthy. I hibernate amaryllis, 2 at a time, from September or October or until they are all in hibernation, and take them out after 2 months to flower. Carol from Denmark From johngrimshaw@tiscali.co.uk Tue May 31 17:23:25 2005 Message-Id: <009d01c56626$e84518c0$38cf403e@John> From: Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 22:22:52 +0100 My comments on some of these questions follow. I've been growing colchicums for over 20 years, mostly the robust hybrids and commercial clones of the species, but they are a very confusing bunch, complicated by rampant misnaming in the trade and confusion in the literature. Many so-called species in cultivation are clones of hybrid or uncertain origin: C. agrippinum (hybrid), C. atropurpureum (dubious provenance), C. byzantinum (hybrid), C. pannonicum (dubious provenance) and C. tenorii (dubious provenance) immediately spring to mind. As with most bulbs, it is the rapidly multiplying clones that have made it into wider cultivation. My knowledge of the smaller species is poor. Botanically they are very awkward brutes to deal with, in most cases flowering long before the leaves so the collector visiting Greece in autumn may collect the flowers but not the leaves - and vice versa in spring. This somewhat explains the synonymy of C. bivonae (C. sibthorpii, C. bowlesianum), for example. Not to mention the problems involved in extracting, then pressing a corm: and one needs to see the whole shoot, not just detached flowers, to see how it fits together. Only by cultivating carefully documented material can one ever hope to see and record the entire growth cycle. The monograph by Karin Persson from Sweden is mentioned occasionally, but never seems to get beyond that stage, alas. > 3. Colchicum major I can't find, but I can find Colchicum autumnale > 'Major'. Is there a species major or is this a cultivar of another species > and should be moved? > ANSWER: I haven't seen this as a valid name anywhere. The pictured plant > could be C. autumnale, which is described as "occasionally tessellated." Anyone else know of a C. major or think that Arnold's picture is of > Colchicum autumnale 'Major'? C. autumnale 'Major', as Jim McKenney has mentioned, is a trade name for C. byzantinum, and the plant illustrated is the typical broad-segmented clone of that ancient hybrid, sent from Constantinople to Vienna in 1588. The crooked purple styles are the giveaway feature. The plant labelled on the wiki as C. byzantinum is not correct, but insufficient detail is visible to enable an identification. There is another clone that fits the general description of C. byzantinum but has much narrower segments: it is in the trade as C. laetum (but that is really a different species, obtainable from Janis Ruksans in Latvia and correctly illustrated on the wiki). > > > 4. Colchicum pannonicum has a note written next to it by Jim McKenney I > suspect saying that this plant is now regarded as a clonal selection of C. > autumnale and has the cultivar name 'Nancy Lindsay'. Should we change it or > is that note sufficient? > > ANSWER: I would leave the note, because apparently there are several of > these purple-tubed C. autumnale forms around, and I'm told the form is > common in the wild in certain areas. Probably not all such plants are the > clone 'Nancy Lindsay', though many of them probably are. From Arnold: "C. pannonicum named for Pannonia which is an ancient name > for what is now part Hungary. Mathew say in his Bulb Newsletter that it is > "so similar that they could be part of the same clone as 'Nancy Lindsay'. > He also says it is a 'plant very much like C. autumnale' Chris Brickell, > in his account of Colchicum for Flora Europaea, decided to sink the species > into C. autumanale. > > Mathew says " So, unless new field studies of the colchicums in this area > indicate otherwise, the situation is that the excellent plant which is > being distributed as C. pannonicum appears to be a very nice color variant > of the very widespread C. autumnale." A very difficult question. 'Nancy Lindsay' is to my mind one of the best Colchicums, being vigorous and easy to grow, producing masses of shapely and proportionate flowers that are richly coloured. Its origins are very unclear: Nancy Lindsay was a great gardener (anything with her name attached is a GOOD plant!) but many of her provenances do not ring true. She became a hard-up nurserywoman and was prone to exaggerate plants' charms and merits; it is tempting to think she enhanced their origins as well. A stock of Galanthus elwesii and the wonderful Arum italicum 'Nancy Lindsay' were both said to have come from her 1930s motoring trip around 'Persia', but neither grows there! Her colchicum is clearly an excellent clone of C. autumnale, but I would be tempted to avoid the question and call it, perfectly legitimately , Colchicum 'Nancy Lindsay'. > > > > 5. Colchicum sibthorpii my sources say should be C. bivonae. Would you look > at Arnold's pictures and let me know if they need to be renamed. Seems to be OK, but I have bought the tessellated hybrid 'Autumn Queen' in the past as C. sibthorpii and the 'error' could recur. John Grimshaw From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue May 31 18:07:55 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20050531150249.01140b68@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum questions Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 15:07:50 -0700 Jim McKenney asked me,Because so many of us grow bulbs from you, your experiences are particularly >significant. It's a mystery to me, for instance, why Crocus goulimyi is an >easy garden plant here but will not do for you as a garden plant. I'm >tempted to offer you corms ripened here in Maryland to see if those would >survive at least the first Oregon winter. I think I lose it simply because it is extremely attractive to predators, like Crocus banaticus. It is cold-hardy in our typical winters. >Can you tell us more about why you think Colchicum cupanii fails in the open >rock garden? And maybe tell us a bit more in general about the problems >peculiar to your climate? The foliage emerges in fall, and during the winter it freezes, thaws, and refreezes while wet. A couple of years of this simply starves the plant, and also may introduce rot into the corm through the frozen, rotting leaf bases. In the bulb frame, it may freeze, but it won't be wet. This is the usual difficulty with growing Mediterranean fall and winter flowering bulbs in the Pacific Northwest, where the winters are warm enough for them to try to grow, but intermittently cold enough that their growth is checked by frosts. I expect the same thing happens in Britain. That said, I do try most bulbs in the garden once I have propagated a surplus (as long as I don't sell all the extras), and sometimes I have a nice surprise. For example, Narcissus cantabricus has just flowered for its second winter in the open -- but we just had the two warmest winters in the past 50 years, too. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From msittner@mcn.org Tue May 31 21:40:04 2005 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20050531182115.01dcbe40@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Garden blooms/New Gladiolus pictures on the wiki Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 18:39:17 -0700 Hi, This is the time in my garden when the winter rainfall South African bulbs are winding down and my California bulbs have been or are starting to bloom. So there are some late blooming Gladiolus, a few Ixias, and the last of the Tritonias in bloom. I have a Moraea (Homeria) here and there still in bloom, but mostly I'm in the deadheading mode getting rid of the hundreds of seed pods I do not want spreading their seeds about my garden. This seems to be an especially great year for the Calochortus I grow well and I'm really enjoying them. I'll add some pictures of them later along with more from my trip in April. I'm amazed at all the different insects I see in the middle of the Calochortus flowers. I can't figure out whether they are pollinating the flowers or eating them. Sometimes there are more than one in the flowers at the same time. Blooming for the first time from seed in one of my raised beds is Gladiolus miniatus. We already have this species pictured in a very nice close-up from Dirk Wallace, Australia, but I added a few more photos to show the whole plant blooming with California bulbs in the same bed. My husband was teasing me about that orange Allium in the pot with the Allium tag, but it is an annual Ursinia that seeded itself in that pot and I didn't pull out. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Southern%20African%20Gladiolus%20M-Z I also got confirmation from South Africa and John Manning courtesy of Alan Horstmann that the Gladiolus a number of us were growing perhaps from Kirstenbosch seed of Gladiolus huttonii are hybrids between it and Gladiolus tristis. I got a little carried away on the wiki by all the forms I added and think I should take some of them off, but am finding it hard which to choose to remove. I added 2 more pictures to the Gladiolus hybrid page. One was of Gladiolus cardinalis hybrid purchased from Telos that has been blooming for awhile and is so pretty. The other is of a white Glad that I've had in this garden from the beginning and is a reliable bloomer thriving with no attention at all and very little summer watering. I suppose that means it is on someone's weed list. Can anyone tell me if they think this is the Gladiolus known as Gladiolus ×colvillei 'Albus'? One of the reasons I added this picture was because I was enchanted with the white spider in the flower. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GladiolusHybrids Mary Sue