Out of about a hundred N. sarniensis crosses, this year I have had the fewest flowers ever,too. Nine have bloomed, and most bulbs have become smaller. I plan to experiment over the next year, Brian, I like your idea about 2 litre pots, and soil based compost....do you believe in soil sterilization or do you, like others, feel that it kills too much bacteria? I must say, that after switching two years ago, to a more traditional "bulb method" of growing my Oxalis, I can't believe the results I am seeing this year. I will post a photo on the Wiki today. I used to follow a recommended method of growing bulbous South African Oxalis lean, in pure sand and pumice, with no fertilizer, but they rarely bloomed beyond the first year of planting. Then I switched to a fast draining soil mix of 20% perlite, 10% builders sand, = 30% which I mix with a 30% mix of Pumice and/or granite gravel and 30 percent Pro Mix, which is a soiless peat based professional growers medium, and 10% potful unsterilized soil from the garden. These are rough measurements, not as complex as it seems, but my point is that there is a percentage of organic material along with soil, and still fast draining. Hey, we are all experimenting, right? I also overpot the bulbs, by centering a cluster of bulbs tightly in the center of the pot, then surrounding them with 'faux bulbs' that are actually granite rocks roughly about the same size. I use this method with many bulbs that seem to like being planted shoulder-to shoulder but are too expensive to afford a whole pot-full. Also, it presents a more attractive presentaion, especially with some Oxalis, (O. Luteola) which look like fine alpine primula when grown this way. Visually, with a topping off of gravel, they look much nicer too. As for fertilizer, I, of course avoid nitrogen beyond bonemeal and thunderstorms, and have switched to using a dry form of Potash (Potassium Oxide K20) Which is 39%K in you analysis. The pots also get a bit of bonemeal, that I integrate into the soil while mixing above mix. I should count the nutrition of rainwater during the more milder autumns (like this year) since I place them outside for their first watering around the first of Sept., and they are allowed to stay outside in full sun to develop tighter form in full sun, until frost threatens us. The plants are moved underglass during the winter and dry summer, from about November till April, the night temperatures are at about 40 degrees F. (5 C). This is the same mix I use for most of my bulbs, especially my Narcissus romieuxii and related Narcissus, as well as Cyclamen, and other South Africans such as Romulea, most Lachenalia, Cyrtanthus (where I use more loamy garden soil with gravel) and Rhodohypoxis. All bloom well for me, in fact, I have three large Cyrtanthus elatus hybrids blooming, one in a 6" pot never repotted, it's sister in a large 5 gallon pot to see if pot size matters, it too is in bud right now, but has many more offsets, and another in an 8 inch clay pot, also in bud. Of course, there are many more factors here, light, winter temperature, summer temperature,etc, but at least with bulbous Oxalis, I can clearly see the difference. I even have a good bloom set on my O. pockockiae which has never bloomed for me. Many that have not bloomed for me are blooming this year. I am thrilled, and they are not floppy and big, nor oversized. Now, if I can only get them to propagate! Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts USA zone 5a Where we still have not had a yet! On 11/6/05 6:59 AM, "Brian Whyer" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote: > > "During the growing season, I water with a liquid fertilizer on every > occasion, when the pots dry out from the previous watering. Overwatering > is > death to the roots and the bulb will regress. I hold no truck with those > > who have advised in the past that nerines do well on a starvation diet." > > Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8.