Cardwell Lily

J.E. Shields
Mon, 01 Oct 2007 05:12:11 PDT
Hi all,

Well, Arnold's links and Dylan's remarks answer my questions.  At the very 
least, I'm letting my Proiphys amboinensis get too cold in winter!  I think 
they got too little water from me this past summer, as well.

I suspect I'd do better to grow Proiphys cunninghamii (Brisbane Lily), 
since it is subtropical in origin.  Does anyone know a source for Proiphys 

Best wishes,
Jim Shields
in central Indiana (USA)

At 07:27 PM 9/30/2007 -0700, you wrote:
>I suspect your bulbs suffered the extremely cruel fate that amaryllids
>often suffer when they are prepared for shipment by commercial
>concerns-- the bulbs were stripped of their roots. Since they are
>perennial roots that build up over time this butchering can set the
>plants back 2-3 seasons or longer, even if they flower the first
>season from existing flower buds stored in the bulb. They often need
>careful attention in the initial stages of re-establishing the root
>I have several P. amboinensis and one just finished flowering (1st
>time) and is now producing what look like fertile fruits, like little
>glossy green oranges, without hand-pollination. It is truly a tropical
>plant and likely would not appreciate low temps much below 55-60 in
>winter. It thrives in shade, quite a bit of shade even, and that is
>when the membranous leaf blades with their magnificent venation look
>best. With proper shading it should be ok in your hot summers; your
>warm nights should be ideal.  I would call it "slow" since it does not
>offset readily but apparently can over time if left undistrurbed. I am
>not completely certain of this but it seems to be a "monsoon season"
>plant and thus begins growth at the start of summer and looses its
>leaves in late fall. So, don't try to coax it into growth in spring
>unless it sends out new leaves on its own.
>The bulbs benefit greatly by having free root run (like most
>amaryllids) and so you might try starting the bulb/s in fairly small
>pots (5" or 6" diam) and once the leaves develop, and the soil
>requires extra watering because of all the new roots in a small space,
>"plunge" them in a planter or raised bed of loose organic mix for the
>summer and remove them to a warmer location in fall/winter. This will
>probably generate some trauma to the roots each fall but should bring
>better results that confining them to larger containers. They seem to
>do better with roots on the moist side in dormancy and generous
>watering and fertilizing when growing. An organic, sandy mix suits
>them. The top of the bulbs should be just under the surface of the
>mix. Good luck!

Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5             Shields Gardens, Ltd.
P.O. Box 92              WWW:
Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA
Tel. ++1-317-867-3344     or      toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA

More information about the pbs mailing list