Adam Fikso adam14113@ameritech.net
Fri, 17 Apr 2009 15:34:02 PDT
Sorry Mary Sue.  I didn't trim my message and the same to any others for 
crowding the eMail.  I just noticed it  Abject groveling on this end.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Adam Fikso" <adam14113@ameritech.net>
To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [pbs] Tulips

> Iain.  I see that you've got a 'flypaper" mind... much like mine.  All 
> kinds
> of stuff sticks to it. Not always pretty or desirable. I quite agree with
> you about researching the original provenances of plants.  But in any 
> case:
> Do not kill middle Asian steppe  plants with "kindness", as in too much
> nitrogenous fertilizer and putting them in a nice "bed"  where they will
> surely suffocate from the nice conditions equivalent to a goosedown
> comforter and a diet of "sugar and spice and everything nice"  Cheers, 
> Adam
> in Glenview, where the daffodils are just opening now and a Corydalis 
> pumila
> (?)   has been open for about 10 days.
> .
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <info@auchgourishbotanicgarden.org>
> To: <pbs@lists.ibiblio.org>
> Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 3:29 PM
> Subject: [pbs] Tulips
>> Linda Kumin, Mark and Adam have both given you excellent tips and advice.
>> I would add that it seems pretty self evident now that one of the biggest
>> mistakes growers of all geophyte bulbs, indeed virtually all plants, make
>> or have made (moi included) is to fail to research their native
>> habitats---soils, rainfall patterns and ambient temps both max & minimum.
>> However here's a wee tip from a hairy Highlander in Scotland, so far 
>> touch
>> wood, we do not suffer from attacks by virus, botrytis, nematodes, etc.
>> unless found on bulbs whose first stop over is at the small quarantine
>> unit. Wherever possible there is simply no alternative to disease control
>> from virus initially than to grow from seed, an opportunity of course not
>> available to all of us all of the time, virus is not known to be
>> transmittable from/through seed. I do not ever use the now limited range
>> of chemical controls, except from weed clearance from the garden's path
>> system where Roundup is now the only practical legal option following the
>> removal of others here in Europe.
>> You could try to use the 'Hot Water Treatment' system on newly arrived
>> bulbs before you plant them, this is very effective at destroying over
>> wintering nematodes, fusarium and other nasties. One other method is to
>> use a highly dilute domestic bleach in warm water for around a few 
>> minutes
>> and then rinsing them in clean warm water again for a few minutes, very
>> rarely can fungal,  virus or parasites such as nematodes manage to 
>> survive
>> that treatment which for lilies is really good but for jacketed bulbs 
>> like
>> tulipa more care needs to be taken to ensure total control.
>> One of the best controls and protections from disease and other 
>> 'problems'
>> is to plant on appropriate sites with appropriate soils, Lilium which I 
>> do
>> most work with should almost always be planted on free draining ground,
>> preferably on a slope too if possible, certainly not on or in clay as
>> that's a fast track for losses. All our bulbous plants, whether Lilium,
>> Iris, Tulipa, etc, etc grow on and in pure sands and gravels derived from
>> acid granite rock, everybody has different approaches but so far so good.
>> Some of the Tulipa species which you mention are infected by a disease
>> called Tulip Breaking Virus which gives them the pretty patterns and
>> colours however this virus is catastrophic for most Lilium and easily
>> transferred between these genera by sap sucking Aphids such as green fly
>> which are most troublesome when there is high humidity and poor air
>> circulation. One control in a sense of limiting infestations, and length
>> of, are cold winters however I would imagine in areas of e.g. coastal
>> California it must be very frustrating on account of sea fogs and warm 
>> air
>> during the summers because very often once the plants have ended 
>> flowering
>> folk tend not to look out for Aphid colonisation however they will keep 
>> on
>> transferring virus right on into Autumn as long as there is green foliage
>> of any sort to suck.
>> Miss Kumin you say you are new to gardening, so is everyone, there are no
>> experts in gardening, perhaps a few deluded fools who think or fancy that
>> they are, but we all make mistakes, usually often and always year in year
>> out, welcome to the club, happy gardening but try not to mix Lilium with
>> non species Tulipa. The 'greigii' type tulips are most often than not
>> hybrids of one sort or the other based to varying degrees on the true
>> species Tulipa greigii, the others using that name are a bit like Heinz 
>> 57
>> varieties. The other lilies you mention by name, except Tulipa tarda per
>> se which is a true botanical species, if sold true to name, sometimes a
>> big 'IF' all the others mentioned are either clones or hybrids grown 
>> under
>> intensive systems majored on by the Dutch growers and they are now so
>> reliant on chemicals due to over intensive agriculture even their ground
>> water is contaminated with soluble nitrates from various forms of farming
>> including intensive pig rearing. Best of lu
>> ck with your organic systems which are infinitely superior if you can 
>> make
>> it work, admittedly it isn't easy and makes very often for extra work but
>> far more satisfying if not exactly financially rewarding in commerical
>> terms under the present regimes governments around the world permit.
>> Incidentally did you know that your name Kumin, as more often spelt in 
>> the
>> old countries as 'Cummin' or here in Scotland Cumming, and variations
>> thereof, is derived from the Cumin plant, a herb often used in cookery,
>> but was used as a so called Plant Badge by that family to distinguish
>> themselves during battle. More titbits of useless information.
>> Iain
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