From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 1 11:58:01 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crocosmia Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 10:57:02 -0500 How about a message about bulbs for a change? I recently got a new catalog from the Lily Garden in Washington State. I was surprised to see they now sell Crocosmia. As some attentive readers may recall I have been newly enthusiastic about these hardy cultivars. Among their offerings are some new names. I am particularly interested in "Skylight" with blooms on 5 ft stems. Wow. Anyone grow this one yet and any comments? I also like 'Van Noorts Giants' a tall mix with large flowers. And is 'Yellow Lucifer' really as good as its namesake or a poor copy? As I have said before, it took a while to figure out what Crocosmia needed here, but now that I have some success after too many failures, I am a big fan. All are done here except 'Distant Planet' in a shady site. Appreciate any replies with your own experience. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From toadlily@olywa.net Mon Aug 1 14:13:21 2011 Message-Id: <4E36EB19.4060304@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: PBS on Facebook Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 11:06:17 -0700 One more piece of the FaceBook puzzle. My wife, an avid photographer, has pointed out that all pictures posted to FB become their property (copyright). FB says that they don't really mean it, but it is in their agreements. Hence, my wife's pictures are presented on Flicker, which does not make any such claim. Using a link on FB, to other web pages such as Flicker, would avoid this problem. I'm not a fan of FB, but for other reasons. Using it to foster awareness of the PBS seems reasonable, even to the point of having regularly updated content; but finding someone with the time and adequate expertise I fear will be the hard part. Dave Brastow Tumwater, Washington From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Aug 1 14:45:27 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Crocosmia Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 11:45:10 -0700 I haven't seen the Crocosmia selections from the Lily Garden that Jim Waddick mentioned in his post, but this spring I bought half a dozen kinds from Far Reaches Farm, a nursery also in Washington state. (Don't miss their website -- they do mail order.) They were well-grown plants almost bursting out of half-gallons, so they're now producing plenty of flowering stems. So far in flower are 'Ember Glow', which is much like 'Lucifer' but shorter and with darker leaves; 'Severn Sunset," which is bright orange with rather tubular flowers, good for cutting; and 'Star of the East', medium orange with widely opened flowers. Several kinds have the darker leaves that make a nice contrast and they'll also be a good addition to flower arrangements. In my former garden at a higher elevation I couldn't grow many Crocosmia hybrids. Only 'Lucifer' was reliably winter-hardy (on my new home's road, there's one front garden with an absolute hedge of it). Now, however, I hope to try a lot of them, because they attract hummingbirds and provide plenty of cutflower material, as well as foliage contrast in the little perennial-plus-annual cutting garden I'm developing. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 1 15:51:28 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crocosmia Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 14:20:54 -0500 Dear Friends, I got a private mail on this topic and it reinforced the good advice I got from Jane McG and Ellen H. Worth repeating and I've modified it a bit for my Zone 5 garden with extremes of hot and cold. Crocosmia have been hardy in this climate, but only with some advance special care. If dormant bare root corms are planted directly in the ground, they are almost guaranteed to fail. I will not do this again. Plants growing in soil in full growth will do much better especially if planted early and given some protection their first winter. Plants in 4 to 6 inch/gallon pots are ideal in size. If blooming size the chances get even higher. If dormant bulbs are the only option, plant them in a good potting mix in large pots, water carefully and let them grow for at least a year including a second growing /sprouting season. This insures that the bulbs really will sprout. Then plant in the final place. My experts cited above suggest Crocosmia need established root systems and last year's corm are helpful too. Apparently each year the new corm forms on the old corm and forms a stack of "used" corms, but gives the plants a reserve of energy and storage giving that edge to survive. This is repeated from the message I got from Ken H in Oregon: Crocosmia: I've been wanting to comment that dry corms, such as are purchased in a store or received through the mail, are typically slow to start growing. I purchased a dozen corms this spring of 'Red King', planted them, and now have a couple tiny fans of leaves--one leaf of about three inches, the other three leaves towering to about four. Next year there will be more, and by the third year they will be almost normal. Not until year four or five will they be good. Patience is a virtue, or at least, so I've heard. I'm a little surprised that Jane had trouble at her former garden, but it may also reflect this need for growing bulbs to get a good start. > >In my former garden at a higher elevation I couldn't grow many >Crocosmia hybrids. Only 'Lucifer' was reliably winter-hardy (on my >new home's road, there's one front garden with an absolute hedge of it). It shows how PBS member's collective experiences work together to help succeed with some really neat plants. The Lily Garden Crocosmia are at: http://www.thelilygarden.com/pages_lilies/crocosmias_1.html Far Reaches Farm is at http://www.farreachesfarm.com/crocosmia that JAne mentioned. All just more temptations or is it NEEDS? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From petersirises@gmail.com Mon Aug 1 16:58:53 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crocosmia and their anatomy Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:58:51 +0100 Hi Jim, I am glad you are now having success with these good value plants. You repeat some great tips for establishing them. It sounds as if you are finding some really good new cultivars in the US. I don't want to pick any arguments over this, (I know that my knowledge of plant anatomy is not good enough to win), but just to put a thought to those people who *do* know the differences between different forms of geophytic plants. These messages, along with others, refer to Crocosmia both as having "bulbs" and "corms". Colloquially speaking I am quite happy with "bulbs", but I am sure constant interchanging of terms will only serve to confuse those people who don't properly understand the differences, and those who struggle with technical English. For those out there (*and there will be many*) who do not know the difference, a corm is a stem surrounded with modified leaves eg Crocus, Gladiolus, Crocosmia. A bulb is a compressed stem (basal plate) with a modified leaf or leaves sitting on top and roots growing below, eg an onion, Tulip or daffodil. Peter (UK) On Mon, Aug 1, 2011 at 8:20 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > Crocosmia have been hardy in this climate, but only with some > advance special care. If dormant bare root corms are planted directly > in the ground, they are almost guaranteed to fail. I will not do this > again. Plants growing in soil in full growth will do much better > especially if planted early and given some protection their first > winter. Plants in 4 to 6 inch/gallon pots are ideal in size. If > blooming size the chances get even higher. > > If dormant bulbs are the only option, plant them in a good > potting mix in large pots, water carefully and let them grow for at > least a year including a second growing /sprouting season. This > insures that the bulbs really will sprout. Then plant in the final > place. > > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hornig@earthlink.net Mon Aug 1 17:05:22 2011 Message-Id: <9A4E7AD6A9E842E7853EDE7AE8774121@ellenPC> From: "Ellen Hornig" Subject: Crocosmia: interesting factoid Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 17:05:44 -0400 We may have covered this before, but if not, it may interest some people to know that if you separate the old back corms from the new corms above them, and pot them up, eventually they will produce new plants. Although they look perfectly "blind", they have dormant eyes that will activate themselves once the newer corms are removed. In the unlikely event that you have too few of a crocosmia and need to bulk it up, it's a good trick to know. Ellen Ellen Hornig Oswego, NY USA Zone 5b From dkramb@gmail.com Mon Aug 1 21:13:20 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:13:18 -0400 I got this from the year end BX sale in February 2010. None of them germinated yet, but I poked around in the pot and the seeds are still firm and bright red. Is there a trick to get them to germinate? Scarification? I looked around on the internet, but didn't find anything helpful. Thanks, Dennis in Cincinnati From zigur@hotmail.com Mon Aug 1 21:20:11 2011 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 18:20:08 -0700 They need scarification with a file or similar. I have also had good results just standing them on wet kitchen paper until I see a radicle emerge. Fewer rotten seeds this way. T > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:13:18 -0400 > From: dkramb@badbear.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Erythrina herbacea > > I got this from the year end BX sale in February 2010. None of them > germinated yet, but I poked around in the pot and the seeds are still firm > and bright red. Is there a trick to get them to germinate? Scarification? > > I looked around on the internet, but didn't find anything helpful. > > Thanks, > Dennis in Cincinnati > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From eez55@earthlink.net Mon Aug 1 21:23:24 2011 Message-Id: <380-22011822123150@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:23:15 -0400 Yep -- scarification. If you do that, they'll probably germinate within a week. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: Dennis Kramb > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 8/1/2011 9:13:27 PM > Subject: [pbs] Erythrina herbacea > > I got this from the year end BX sale in February 2010. None of them > germinated yet, but I poked around in the pot and the seeds are still firm > and bright red. Is there a trick to get them to germinate? Scarification? > > I looked around on the internet, but didn't find anything helpful. > > Thanks, > Dennis in Cincinnati > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dkramb@gmail.com Mon Aug 1 21:49:46 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:49:45 -0400 Is it a mistake to germinate them mid-summer? (will they mature enough to overwinter? or would i bring the pots indoors and grow under lights?) Thanks, Dennis From Santoury@aol.com Mon Aug 1 21:53:45 2011 Message-Id: <8CE1ECE1AC5D621-1084-70D0@web-mmc-d10.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 01 Aug 2011 21:53:26 -0400 They take time - and moisture. I suppose scarification would help. Jude From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 1 22:41:05 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Erythrina herbacea - guesses Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 21:39:05 -0500 >Is it a mistake to germinate them mid-summer? >(will they mature enough to overwinter? or would i bring the pots indoors >and grow under lights?) Dear Dennis, I don't think you have a chance to grow this outdoors where you live, but they make OK potted plants for wintering indoors or a GH. I bet they germinate in a VERY short time if scarified enough to expose the endosperm. Good luck. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From awilson@avonia.com Mon Aug 1 23:06:21 2011 Message-Id: <8A8FF00C04424053BE7D5A2DE589C204@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Erythrina herbacea - guesses Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 20:06:17 -0700 As with nearly all the Fabaceae, a small nick and cut with a sharp razor does the trick. Bring it indoors in October. Andrew San Diego >Is it a mistake to germinate them mid-summer? >(will they mature enough to overwinter? or would i bring the pots >indoors and grow under lights?) Dear Dennis, I don't think you have a chance to grow this outdoors where you live, but they make OK potted plants for wintering indoors or a GH. I bet they germinate in a VERY short time if scarified enough to expose the endosperm. Good luck. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon Aug 1 23:14:35 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Erythrina herbacea - guesses Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 20:14:33 -0700 I use one corner of a nail clipper to puncture the seed a bit. Less likely to slice a finger. Diane Whitehead On 1-Aug-11, at 8:06 PM, AW wrote: > As with nearly all the Fabaceae, a small nick and cut with a sharp > razor > does the trick. From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon Aug 1 23:19:32 2011 Message-Id: <6655356E-138F-4287-B421-8FE42E54DA56@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Crocosmia Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 20:19:29 -0700 Jane was growing some on a mountainside. Some are tender, even here on the coast. And they need to be watered in summer if you try to grow them along the Pacific coast. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada cool mediterranean climate moderate dry summers, moderate rainy winters 68 cm rain (27 in) On 1-Aug-11, at 12:20 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > I'm a little surprised that Jane had trouble at her former > garden, but it may also reflect this need for growing bulbs to get a > good start. > >> >> In my former garden at a higher elevation I couldn't grow many >> Crocosmia hybrids. Only 'Lucifer' was reliably winter-hardy (on my >> new home's road, there's one front garden with an absolute hedge of >> it). > From eez55@earthlink.net Mon Aug 1 23:41:57 2011 Message-Id: <380-2201182234147734@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Erythrina herbacea Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 23:41:47 -0400 You should be OK if you germinate the seeds now. Or, you can unearth and clean off the seeds, store them over the winter, and start them in spring. Or you could try both. If you do start them now, you should have some small (3-6 inch) plants by October. You'll definite need to bring them indoors for the winter. When you bring them indoors, they'll probably lose their leaves. You can keep them dry, but not desiccated, over the winter. I'd recommend watering them lightly (just moisten the surface of the potting medium) once a week or every two weeks, so that the young plants don't shrivel. In coastal Georgia, E. herbacea is usually a small shrub. (I've seen it grow much larger in south Texas.) In Augusta, it survives and blooms as a(n) herbaceous perennial. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: Dennis Kramb > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 8/1/2011 9:49:53 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Erythrina herbacea > > Is it a mistake to germinate them mid-summer? > (will they mature enough to overwinter? or would i bring the pots indoors > and grow under lights?) > > Thanks, > Dennis > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Theladygardens@aol.com Tue Aug 2 03:36:01 2011 Message-Id: From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Erythrina herbacea - guesses Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 03:35:59 -0400 (EDT) I use dog nail clippers, they have a base plate to set the seed on while the clippers clip. Some have an adjustable base plate. Carolyn Craft In a message dated 8/1/2011 8:14:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, voltaire@islandnet.com writes: I use one corner of a nail clipper to puncture the seed a bit. Less likely to slice a finger. Diane Whitehead On 1-Aug-11, at 8:06 PM, AW wrote: > As with nearly all the Fabaceae, a small nick and cut with a sharp > razor > does the trick. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Tue Aug 2 04:21:11 2011 Message-Id: <4E37B37A.7080602@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Gladiolus Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2011 20:21:14 +1200 I was given a bulb of a Gladiolus, which is supposed to have a pink flower and is also supposed to be beautifully scented. I looked on the Wiki, but there is no mention of a scented Gladiolus. Does anyone know what it might be called? At this stage the shoot is only just above the ground, late as I got it when the person who gave it, had them already growing, while this one of course had to get roots first after I had planted it. Ina Crossley from chilly Auckland, New Zealand From pandi_bear@bigpond.com Tue Aug 2 08:19:58 2011 Message-Id: <013001cc50f2$0ef13be0$2cd3b3a0$@com> From: "Carolyn Fra" Subject: Gladiolus Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 18:56:24 +1000 Hi Ina, :o) It might be Gladiolus caryophyllaceus, that one is pink & has a nice perfume. Carolyn -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ina Crossley Sent: Tuesday, 2 August 2011 6:21 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] re Gladiolus I was given a bulb of a Gladiolus, which is supposed to have a pink flower and is also supposed to be beautifully scented. I looked on the Wiki, but there is no mention of a scented Gladiolus. Does anyone know what it might be called? At this stage the shoot is only just above the ground, late as I got it when the person who gave it, had them already growing, while this one of course had to get roots first after I had planted it. Ina Crossley from chilly Auckland, New Zealand From oothal@hotmail.com Tue Aug 2 14:50:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 13:47:24 -0500 Hi all, E. herbacea is one of my favorite wild flowers here in East Texas. The dried seed pods make unusual decorations with the contrast of black husk and red seed. This years crop of seed make me smile when I see them shining in the sun. germinating seed: nick the coat then soak in water until you notice the root growing. I personally like to change the water everyday until I see root growth, its only a few days. If your seed fail to show any growth and just rot then your seed were bad to begin with. Once sprouted, plant them out. Snails and slugs love to eat the young tubers so make sure you plant them deep enough for protection also must be planted deep enough so the crown will not freeze. These plants are winter dormant but live where winters are wet and summers have rain. Some places have a lot of summer rain and some not so much. They will overwinter nicely if the ground does not freeze. If you live far enough north that your ground freezes then some kind of protection is necessary. You can try planting them deeper in the ground but not sure of the results. Mine are quite variable in bloom and growth pattern. I dug one up last year that grew huge but yet very rarely had a few little blooms. Another of mine has lots and lots of short bloom stalks with many small short blooms. Another of mine has a few huge flower spikes (over my head and I am 6'4") with large long blooms. Mine vary in color a little, from red to a lighter red. Making me think that a red closer to pink is a possible. The tuber gets big so having one in anything other than a big pot will do poorly. The one I dug up that grew so well was larger than a football in size. The tuber and roots are brittle and have an odd stink to them, so great care must be taken if you need to transplant it. They do have thorns like other Erythrina which deters a lot of people from growing and enjoying them. You can start them any time of year and grow them easily in pots while they are young. Just remember freezing will kill them. Justin SmithWoodville, Tx 8b/9a From eciton@alumni.utexas.net Tue Aug 2 20:25:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2011 19:28:38 -0500 I received the same seed from the BX and had 100% germination after placing the seeds in a dish and pouring boiling water over them. The seeds swell within 24 hours and are then ready to plant. If any seed don't double in size with the first try, a second boiling water treatment should do the trick. Austin, TX where summer is stratifying me by boiling... From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed Aug 3 02:55:21 2011 Message-Id: <647869787.98942.1312354518501.JavaMail.www@wwinf1m18> From: Mark BROWN Subject: A updated version of the list of the nurseries which could export from China. Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 08:55:18 +0200 (CEST) Hello, What would the Lycopodium species be? I would be glad of any information. Kind regards, Mark > Message du 30/07/11 09:02 > De : "fierycloud2002" > A : "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] A updated version of the list of the nurseries which couldexport from China. > > Hi: > A updated version of the list of the nurseries which could export from China. (Although they are still not available to Taiwan.) > > > http://translate.google.com.tw/translate?hl=en&sl=zh-CN&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fdzwjyjgs.aqsiq.gov.cn%2Frdgz%2F201107%2FP020110718616349850067.xls > > Su-Hong-Ciao > Taiwan > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From dkramb@gmail.com Wed Aug 3 18:46:39 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 18:46:36 -0400 Ummmm...... I'm really, really, silly. I complained about no germination on my Erythrina, because I saw an exposed red seed sitting in a pot full of assorted weeds. A few moments ago I started poking around trying to find the other seeds so that I could scarify & soak them. One was rotten, so I tossed it. The next one was viable... and attached to a growing Erythrina plant!!!! LOL. At least I think so. Upon clearing away the weeds, I seem to have 3 Erythrina seedlings happily growing. Can you guys confirm? Here's a pic... http://www.badbear.com/P8030007.JPG (I know the plant in lower left is a Viola sororia seedling.) Can you hazard any guess as to why the big one is yellowing? From awilson@avonia.com Wed Aug 3 19:21:47 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 16:21:29 -0700 Those are young Erythrinas alright! I grow the hybrid E.herbacea X E. crista-galli, also called E. 'bidwilli'. Great plant. Are the roots of the yellowed plant trying to come out the bottom of the pot? These guys like space. Andrew San Diego -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Ummmm...... I'm really, really, silly. I complained about no germination on my Erythrina, because I saw an exposed red seed sitting in a pot full of assorted weeds. A few moments ago I started poking around trying to find the other seeds so that I could scarify & soak them. One was rotten, so I tossed it. The next one was viable... and attached to a growing Erythrina plant!!!! LOL. At least I think so. Upon clearing away the weeds, I seem to have 3 Erythrina seedlings happily growing. Can you guys confirm? Here's a pic... http://www.badbear.com/P8030007.JPG (I know the plant in lower left is a Viola sororia seedling.) Can you hazard any guess as to why the big one is yellowing? From joshuakyleyoung@gmail.com Wed Aug 3 19:44:24 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Rhodophiala Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 19:44:23 -0400 Hi guys, Does anyone here grow many species in this genus? I've recently started growing a few species such as R. bagnoldii, pratensis, chilensis and phycelloides, I'm a bit nervous as I've heard they're a bit difficult to grow. Does anyone have any advice as to how they grow theirs? Currently I have mine in very deep pots towards the bottom. I know many are found in very dry areas and some are from alpine regions. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I'd love to enlarge my collection, if anyone has any species they're willing to trade for other things you can contact me! I'm really looking for the white form of bifida, 'grantiflora' and a few others. Josh From Santoury@aol.com Wed Aug 3 20:24:56 2011 Message-Id: <8CE20540AC6541B-1148-152F4@webmail-d183.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 20:24:43 -0400 Yes, I see 3 Erythrinas. Congrats! From bulborum@gmail.com Thu Aug 4 02:16:40 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Rhodophiala Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 08:16:39 +0200 Josh Have a look here http://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/ESeeds.htm?G_START=29 Roland 2011/8/4 Joshua Young : > Hi guys, > > >   Does anyone here grow many species in this genus?  I've recently started > growing a few species such as R. bagnoldii, pratensis, chilensis > and phycelloides, I'm a bit nervous as I've heard they're a bit difficult to > grow.  Does anyone have any advice as to how they grow theirs?  Currently I > have mine in very deep pots towards the bottom.  I know many are found in > very dry areas and some are from alpine regions.  Any advice would be > greatly appreciated! > >   I'd love to enlarge my collection, if anyone has any species they're > willing to trade for other things you can contact me!   I'm really looking > for the white form of bifida, 'grantiflora' and a few others. > > Josh > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From dkramb@gmail.com Thu Aug 4 15:17:10 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 15:17:08 -0400 I potted up those seeds in February 2010. So they withstood winter temps for two winters... albeit a short 1st winter. Based on PBS feedback it seems impossible for those seedlings to have wintered over, so the seeds must have germinated this spring. That's fascinating (to me) to have hardy seeds from a non-hardy plant! From awilson@avonia.com Thu Aug 4 15:26:36 2011 Message-Id: <4FAABD50963B4F5F85FD83F1E6712605@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 12:26:39 -0700 It's not unusual for dormancy to be used by plants to protect themselves against cold. Here it is just the seed. All the proteins and fats are there but water is not. Tender annual or perennial seed is regularly exposed to frost without damage from the cold, per se. Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Subject: Re: [pbs] Erythrina herbacea no guessing I potted up those seeds in February 2010. So they withstood winter temps for two winters... albeit a short 1st winter. Based on PBS feedback it seems impossible for those seedlings to have wintered over, so the seeds must have germinated this spring. That's fascinating (to me) to have hardy seeds from a non-hardy plant! _______________________________________________ From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Aug 4 15:34:22 2011 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Rhodophiala Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 16:34:17 -0300 On Aug 3, 2011, at 8:44 PM, Joshua Young wrote: > Does anyone here grow many species in this genus? I've recently started > growing a few species such as R. bagnoldii, pratensis, chilensis > and phycelloides, I'm a bit nervous as I've heard they're a bit difficult to > grow. Does anyone have any advice as to how they grow theirs? Currently I > have mine in very deep pots towards the bottom. I know many are found in > very dry areas and some are from alpine regions. Any advice would be > greatly appreciated! > > I'd love to enlarge my collection, if anyone has any species they're > willing to trade for other things you can contact me! I'm really looking > for the white form of bifida, 'grantiflora' and a few others. > > Josh > _______________________________________________ I grow a number of the Chilean Rhodophiala, as well as most of the Eastern South American types that Alberto Castillo has donated over the years, as well. I've found the Eastern types to be very easy to grow especially since they don't mind water or dryness during their summer dormancy nor do they mind my winter rainfall during their winter growth period. However, even though I live in a climate very similar to Chile's, I've had more trouble with the Chilean ones including the ones that come from a climate similar to California's. It seems not as many come back after their summer dormancy as went into it. In contrast, the Eastern types can be mistreated to a large degree and still insist on surviving. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Thu Aug 4 15:36:14 2011 Message-Id: <20110804153611.26506@web003.roc2.bluetie.com> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Erythrina herbacea no guessing Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2011 15:36:11 -0400 Dennis wrote: " That's fascinating (to me) to have hardy seeds from a non-hardy plant!" Dennis, I can remember when that first dawned on me, and yes it's intriguing. But if you stop to think about it a minute, it's probably the rule rather than the exception. The seeds of most of the freeze tender plants we grow as annuals seem to be freeze tolerant. Even those plants which go with the first touch of frost in the autumn often have seeds which survive the winter; in my garden right now are patches of begonias, ageratum, torenia and scarlet sage which are all self-sown from plants which flowered last year. Some plants give the impression of not having hardy seeds, but that's usually because the seedlings germinate in the autumn and are then killed by subsequent freezes. If you wait for the arrival of real winter weather and then sow the seeds in question, you'll get good results. And I know I'm not the first person to store surplus seed in the freezer, where it seems to retain viability for decades. Jim McKenney From alessandro.marinohob@alice.it Thu Aug 4 15:47:18 2011 Message-Id: <40BAF51484D14C5B8C1C612184128541@microsof6eb30e> From: "alessandro.marinello" Subject: Rhodophiala Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 21:41:52 +0200 Lately, they are not much serious, fairies attention to the seeds that are in offer, turn out to be old, two years ago I have taken seeds of to 15 species of Alstroemeria, only the ligtu to be germinated and the prices lately are leavend Alessandro ----- Original Message ----- From: "bulborum botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, August 04, 2011 8:16 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophiala Josh Have a look here http://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/ESeeds.htm?G_START=29 Roland 2011/8/4 Joshua Young : > Hi guys, > > > Does anyone here grow many species in this genus? I've recently started > growing a few species such as R. bagnoldii, pratensis, chilensis > and phycelloides, I'm a bit nervous as I've heard they're a bit difficult > to > grow. Does anyone have any advice as to how they grow theirs? Currently I > have mine in very deep pots towards the bottom. I know many are found in > very dry areas and some are from alpine regions. Any advice would be > greatly appreciated! > > I'd love to enlarge my collection, if anyone has any species they're > willing to trade for other things you can contact me! I'm really looking > for the white form of bifida, 'grantiflora' and a few others. > > Josh > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@comcast.net Thu Aug 4 15:47:05 2011 Message-Id: <000001cc52df$5058e710$f10ab530$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 281 Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 15:47:13 -0400 Dear All,        The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared.   If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 281" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS.     Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org ....          If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Roy Herold: 1. Nerine sarniensis hybrid #2, a clean, sparkly white. Ex Mattus. Smallish offsets. 2. Ornithogalum fimbrimarginatum, Piketberg, ex Hammer, blooming size, few. 3. Oxalis commutata, ex BX179, ex MSI 4. Oxalis callosa, ex BX207 ex MSI ex Telos 5. Oxalis bowiei 6. Oxalis convexula? Forms a zillion bulbils. Ex Mattus 7. Oxalis sp MV4674 Seweweekspoort 8. Oxalis compressa ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff 9. Oxalis flava pink? ex BX207 ex MSI 10. Oxalis flava 'lupinifolia' ex MSI. A gem. 11. Oxalis flava v pectinaria ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff 12. Oxalis flava ex BX179 ex MSI ex Telos 13. Oxalis flava not pink ex BX152 ex MSI 14. Oxalis hirta mauve ex BX198 ex MSI ex Vanderhoff 15. Oxalis hirta ex BX152 ex MSI 16. Oxalis hirta 'Gothenburg' ex Odyssey 17. Oxalis hirta 'Gothenburg' ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff, not the same as above. 18. Oxalis imbricata v violacea MV4621B ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff 19. Oxalis luteola MV5567 20. Oxalis 'massonorum' ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff 21. Oxalis polyphylla heptaphylla ex Mattus 22. Oxalis obtusa MV7085 23. Oxalis obtusa MV6341 From Antigoni Rentzeperis: 24. Seed of Albuca bracteata 25. Small bulbs of Albuca bracteata Thank you, Roy and Antigoni !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From michaelhomick@gmail.com Thu Aug 4 20:06:50 2011 Message-Id: From: Michael Homick Subject: xAmarygia Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2011 17:06:49 -0700 I just noticed in the garden that the xAmarygia are starting to push buds through the ground and it got me to pondering a question. The cross was between a *Brunsvigia josephinae *and *Amaryllis belladonna.* Other than flower color variation the form is very uniform between all the plants growing here. (20+ clones) I am sure that we are growing F3, F4 or further generations from the original crosses. Did the F2 or later generations ever exhibit more of the *Brunsvigia* form? If not why would the *Brunsvigia*genes not express themselves more in some of the progeny of future generations? Has backcrossing to *Brunsvigia* been attempted? Time to do some reading of back issues of Herbertia and other periodicals as well as PBS archive searching. All the best, Michael Homick Stevinson, (Central Valley), California From ksayce@willapabay.org Fri Aug 5 13:46:33 2011 Message-Id: <5D9FBB26-29D3-4BE9-BC2B-70C93D8EC4DB@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: what's flowering this week Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 10:46:29 -0700 I came home from a week away to find Crinum xpowellii in flower, and no sign yet of Amaryllis belladonna flowering shoots, which went dormant about 2 weeks ago. About half the lilies are flowering. Brodiaea Queen Fabiola has the last flowers open. Allium beesianum is still in flower; it was just starting when I left last week. Can anyone tell me about Lobelia tupa? Mine had one stalk for 2-3 years, flowering late each summer. This year there are 5 plants, all about 3-5 ft from the original. I'm trying to decide if these are seedlings or shoots from underground runners. My Scilla peruviana looked pretty good when I left, but the slugs found it during the week. Argh. I'm moving it to a wetter spot where I grow and protect other plants from slugs, which I hope it will like much better. Kathleen PNW coast From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Aug 5 20:58:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: what's flowering this week Date: Fri, 05 Aug 2011 17:58:22 -0700 Kathleen wrote, >Can anyone tell me about Lobelia tupa? Mine had one stalk for 2-3 >years, flowering late each summer. This year there are 5 plants, all >about 3-5 ft from the original. I'm trying to decide if these are >seedlings or shoots from underground runners. My Chilean native plants for the garden book mentions propagating this species only from seed, not from root cuttings. In nature one sees this species as a single clumping plant or as a colony, but I don't know if the colonies are formed by seed or stolons. Seedlings should be noticeably smaller than the parent plant, which when mature can have a stalk up to 2 meters tall or even more. However, when I grew it in the Pacific Northwest, it never got that tall. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From sgage4@eq.edu.au Fri Aug 5 22:02:19 2011 Message-Id: <75d0e653c090.4e3d2d48@eq.edu.au> From: Shelley GAGE Subject: Trip to Brazil Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 12:02:16 +1000 Dear Jane, I have had to let the trip in Chile go because I have to be back in Queensland by beginning of October. I have almost organised a guided trip in Brazil for the first two weeks of September starting at Sao Paulo Airport hoping to see a number of amaryllids in flower. There is space for one or two others if anyone is interested. I have a probable itinerary which we are working on. Shelley Gage Australia On 06/08/11, Jane McGary wrote: > > Kathleen wrote, > >Can anyone tell me about Lobelia tupa? Mine had one stalk for 2-3 > >years, flowering late each summer. This year there are 5 plants, all > >about 3-5 ft from the original. I'm trying to decide if these are > >seedlings or shoots from underground runners. > > My Chilean native plants for the garden book mentions propagating > this species only from seed, not from root cuttings. In nature one > sees this species as a single clumping plant or as a colony, but I > don't know if the colonies are formed by seed or stolons. Seedlings > should be noticeably smaller than the parent plant, which when mature > can have a stalk up to 2 meters tall or even more. However, when I > grew it in the Pacific Northwest, it never got that tall. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Aug 6 00:10:51 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: PBS Market Place Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 22:44:45 -0500 Dear PBS Friends, Greetings and a friendly reminder. About 2 months ago, we instituted a trial PBS Market Place to keep commercial business off this elist. The Market Place is operated voluntarily by Elllen Horning at http://www.senecahillperennials.com/index.php?page=pbs The newest offer is a month old. - A MONTH !! We will continue to offer this as a service to members and non-members alike, but if interest is as poor as the past two months suggests, we will not continue this site. So if members have some choice seeds, bulbs, any propagules of 'geophytic' plants that they wish to sell trade or ? please make use of this free service. Just don't make commercial announcement on this elist devoted to an educational discussion of bulbs. Appreciate any private thoughts you may have to Ellen at the web site or me at jwaddick@kc.rr.com Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From klazina1@gmail.com Sat Aug 6 01:21:48 2011 Message-Id: <4E3CCF6D.1090002@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: market place Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 17:21:49 +1200 Unfortunately it is winter down under, so it wouldn't be until our summer before there was anything to sell. At least that is how it affects me. It would be seed and seed is only in summer. How do other members feel about it from down under? Otherwise it would be basically a US market place. Ina Crossley From ron_redding@hotmail.com Sat Aug 6 01:45:47 2011 Message-Id: From: Ronald Redding Subject: market place Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 15:40:45 +1000 Hi I would like make some information about the market place as I would like to utilise it at some stage. How much effort does it take to maintain the site if no one is using it, it would seem that there would be no work actually involved if nothing is being listed. Please let me know if I am mistaken along with the rest of us, of course if there is work involved and no-one is using it then that would be very dis-heartening and I will make an effort to get something on there. Can we send a message to this group ie "I have just listed some seeds or plants on the PBS market place" and if we are can we give a more detailed listing of the actual plants/seeds without reference to prices etc For anyone on facebook I have a page to start showcasing the bulbs I have in my collection and update it when I have something that flowers and I hope to add a lot more to it this coming year, if you would like to look I am "Bay Bulbs" Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 17:21:49 +1200 > From: klazina1@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] re market place > > Unfortunately it is winter down under, so it wouldn't be until our > summer before there was anything to sell. At least that is how it > affects me. It would be seed and seed is only in summer. > > How do other members feel about it from down under? > > Otherwise it would be basically a US market place. > > Ina Crossley > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Sat Aug 6 03:59:31 2011 Message-Id: <6058022.36421.1312617568008.JavaMail.www@wwinf1g07> From: Mark BROWN Subject: what's flowering this week Lobelia Tupa Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 09:59:27 +0200 (CEST) I know that Lobelia laxiflora has two forms.One form that runs and one that stays put in a clump. Maybe this is the same for this species? Mark > Message du 06/08/11 02:58 > De : "Jane McGary" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] what's flowering this week > > Kathleen wrote, > >Can anyone tell me about Lobelia tupa? Mine had one stalk for 2-3 > >years, flowering late each summer. This year there are 5 plants, all > >about 3-5 ft from the original. I'm trying to decide if these are > >seedlings or shoots from underground runners. > > My Chilean native plants for the garden book mentions propagating > this species only from seed, not from root cuttings. In nature one > sees this species as a single clumping plant or as a colony, but I > don't know if the colonies are formed by seed or stolons. Seedlings > should be noticeably smaller than the parent plant, which when mature > can have a stalk up to 2 meters tall or even more. However, when I > grew it in the Pacific Northwest, it never got that tall. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jimlykos@bigpond.com Sat Aug 6 14:45:55 2011 Message-Id: <084D58188DC1432C8255BD7BAFD9E8CC@amaryllis> From: "jim lykos" Subject: xAmarygia Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 23:23:08 +1000 Hi Michael, You have asked some intriguing questions about the outcome of the intergeneric cross between Brunsvigia josephinae and Amaryllis - and what sort of backcrosses can be achieved. A very thorough paper on the outcome of this intergeneric cross is found in Vol 63,2009 , pages 75 to 100 of Herbertia. Basically as you have found there is little colour variation with the F1 cross (xAmarygia) with all flowers being a rich magenta colour with varying degrees of reddish wash in the centre of tepals and some white markings near the centre of some flowers. It is uncertain how many backcrosses were necessary to get the full colour variations of vigorous Amaryllis like xAmarygias that we see in collections, but it is clear that most F1 Amarygias have sterile pollen and that F1 back crosses to Brunsvigia as a seed or pollen parent produce mainly aborted seeds and occasionally small weak seedlings. However F1 Amarygias will backcross with Amaryllis. I have not been able to create any seedlings from F1x F1 crosses and I have yet to be certain about what an F2 xAmarygia looks like . I think the process that produced our current colour range of Amarygias was due to crossing the F1 Amarygia with Amaryllis belladonna colour varieties, with further backcrosses with the progeny. My view is that crosses between F3, F4 generations etc usually have seedlings that are super fertile. In making these crosses using a Brunsvigia pollen parent will produce myriad's of small seeds from the Amaryllis or xAmarygia seed parent resulting in vigorously germinating seedlings. The reverse cross with Brunsvigia as the seed parent still has a poorer outcome with very few seeds produced and almost all seedlings usually damping off by the second year. I have found that shape, colour and size of flowers can be modified by selective crosses using x Amarygias from different Brunsvigia/xAmarygia parents, otherwise the outcome is usually offspring with little variation in colour or shape. When you start to breed xAmarygia using parents that have twisted, undulating or elongated sepals you start to see part of the expression of the Brunsvigia genetics, other desirable factors include small and large sized flowers and extra floriferousness and these outcomes are mainly obtained and extended by working on hybrids between different coloured and shaped xAmarygis's. Cheers Jim Lykos Blue Mountains Sydney Aust. Summary: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Homick" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, August 05, 2011 10:06 AM Subject: [pbs] xAmarygia >I just noticed in the garden that the xAmarygia are starting to push buds > through the ground and it got me to pondering a question. The cross was > between a *Brunsvigia josephinae *and *Amaryllis belladonna.* Other than > flower color variation the form is very uniform between all the plants > growing here. (20+ clones) I am sure that we are growing F3, F4 or further > generations from the original crosses. Did the F2 or later generations > ever > exhibit more of the *Brunsvigia* form? If not why would the > *Brunsvigia*genes not express themselves more in some of the progeny > of future > generations? Has backcrossing to *Brunsvigia* been attempted? Time to do > some reading of back issues of Herbertia and other periodicals as well as > PBS archive searching. > All the best, Michael Homick > Stevinson, (Central Valley), California > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Sat Aug 6 09:35:27 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2254CE7D4359-100C-F0B@angweb-usm022.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: market place Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:35:14 -0400 I'd love Australian stuff, too! The more diverse the better -----Original Message----- From: Ina Crossley To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sat, Aug 6, 2011 1:21 am Subject: [pbs] re market place Unfortunately it is winter down under, so it wouldn't be until our summer before there was anything to sell. At least that is how it affects me. It would be seed and seed is only in summer. How do other members feel about it from down under? Otherwise it would be basically a US market place. Ina Crossley From Santoury@aol.com Sat Aug 6 09:40:12 2011 Message-Id: <8CE225579A6E0AB-100C-102B@angweb-usm022.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: market place Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 09:40:01 -0400 I've made similar suggestions, but was discouraged from doing so. I agree, if we could let people know that there IS any activity there, it would become more active. Perhaps not individually, but if the person maintaining the list, could simply shoot out an email each week, saying "We have 2 new additions" or something like that, it would generate a lot more interest. It's too easy to forget about something without a reminder of its existence. That said, time to put some more things up there. Thanks much, Jude Hi I would like make some information about the market place as I would like to utilise it at some stage. How much effort does it take to maintain the site if no one is using it, it would seem that there would be no work actually involved if nothing is being listed. Please let me know if I am mistaken along with the rest of us, of course if there is work involved and no-one is using it then that would be very dis-heartening and I will make an effort to get something on there. Can we send a message to this group ie "I have just listed some seeds or plants on the PBS market place" and if we are can we give a more detailed listing of the actual plants/seeds without reference to prices etc For anyone on facebook I have a page to start showcasing the bulbs I have in my collection and update it when I have something that flowers and I hope to add a lot more to it this coming year, if you would like to look I am "Bay Bulbs" Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 17:21:49 +1200 > From: klazina1@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] re market place > > Unfortunately it is winter down under, so it wouldn't be until our > summer before there was anything to sell. At least that is how it > affects me. It would be seed and seed is only in summer. > > How do other members feel about it from down under? > > Otherwise it would be basically a US market place. > > Ina Crossley > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Sat Aug 6 10:27:33 2011 Message-Id: <20110806142732.CAB03E8A7D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: PBS Market Place Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 07:26:59 -0700 Hi, I'd just like to remind you all that the reason that Ellen was kind enough to offer to do the PBS Market Place was because this list is an educational list hosted by ibiblio.org and one of the requirements is that it not be commercial. If every time someone added something to the PBS Market Place, it was announced to the group, it would defeat the purpose. It would be up to Ellen to decide if she wanted to start a list of people who wanted to be notified if there were changes to the page and let them know. But that would be extra work for her. David Pilling might also help her figure out how to add a feed like he did for the wiki where every day you can look at a new bulb. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/wikifeed/index.php The easiest solution is for people who are interested in this extra service to bookmark it and check it for changes. I have the wikifeed added to my Browser bar where it is easy to check. There are probably many of us who choose to send our excess seed and bulbs to the BX or just swap privately with friends we've made on this list. It's a lot of work to package everything up and Dell does an outstanding job. You get a credit for what it costs you to mail to the BX which you can use to get something else. So it's like a swap service with less work. As for the comments from the Southern Hemisphere, it's always going to be tricky to send things out of the country you live in since it involves learning what it required in each country. But that is up to the people involved to figure out. We have subscribers to our list from Southern Hemisphere countries who could trade with each other. The majority of members of this list are lurkers. We have subscribers from all over the world so it is possible that someone from the same country could request something on the exchange. And seed can be kept until the right time to plant. Most of us do that already. Seed exchanges (besides our BX) often deliver seed at the wrong time. Mary Sue PBS List Administrator From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Aug 6 14:12:15 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Trip to Brazil Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 10:57:41 -0700 Dear Shelley, Your trip to Brazil sounds wonderful too. Do you correspond with Alberto Castillo? He knows a great deal about the amaryllids of Brazil, especially the plains area. A local guide will help you, of course. Be sure to consult your doctor about immunizations before you go. There are some serious diseases endemic to southern Brazil -- one reason I've avoided it so far, even though it contains Alstroemeria species, my special interest. (Also I don't speak Portuguese though I can read it.) As I was making up our party for Chile, two people in a row had to cancel because of family illness, but we now have a carful again. My task for the coming week is to prepare the itinerary, get it approved, and make hotel reservations. Fortunately I've stayed in most of the towns where we'll be stopping and know which hotels to contact. Someday I hope to visit Queensland, particularly to see the birds. I spent 3 weeks in southern Australia, including Tasmania, a few years ago and enjoyed the birds perhaps even more than the plants. I'll probably sign up for a package tour rather than driving myself. However, if you know anyone who might be interested, I've often thought it would be nice to exchange private "guided tours" with people from other countries who would like to see our western American mountains -- especially given the anxiety of switching driving from left to right and vice versa. I drove myself around New Zealand and the part of Australia I visited, but I didn't enjoy that part of it! Have a great time, Jane McGary At 07:02 PM 8/5/2011, you wrote: >Dear Jane, >I have had to let the trip in Chile go because I have to be back in >Queensland by beginning of October. I have almost organised a guided >trip in Brazil for the first two weeks of September starting at Sao >Paulo Airport hoping to see a number of amaryllids in flower. There >is space for one or two others if anyone is interested. I have a >probable itinerary which we are working on. >Shelley Gage Australia > >On 06/08/11, Jane McGary wrote: > > > > Kathleen wrote, > > >Can anyone tell me about Lobelia tupa? Mine had one stalk for 2-3 > > >years, flowering late each summer. This year there are 5 plants, all > > >about 3-5 ft from the original. I'm trying to decide if these are > > >seedlings or shoots from underground runners. > > > > My Chilean native plants for the garden book mentions propagating > > this species only from seed, not from root cuttings. In nature one > > sees this species as a single clumping plant or as a colony, but I > > don't know if the colonies are formed by seed or stolons. Seedlings > > should be noticeably smaller than the parent plant, which when mature > > can have a stalk up to 2 meters tall or even more. However, when I > > grew it in the Pacific Northwest, it never got that tall. > > > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Text inserted by Panda GP 2011: > > This message has NOT been classified as spam. If it is unsolicited > mail (spam), click on the following link to reclassify it: > http://localhost:6083/Panda?ID=pav_4727&SPAM=true&path=C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\NetworkService\Local%20Settings\Application%20Data\Panda%20Security\Panda%20Global%20Protection%202011\AntiSpam >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Aug 6 14:12:18 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Southern Hemisphere seed, was PBS Market Place Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 11:11:27 -0700 Mary Sue wrote > And seed can be >kept until the right time to plant. Most of us do that already. Seed >exchanges (besides our BX) often deliver seed at the wrong time. When I get seeds from the Southern Hemisphere, it has always been of species that experience a dry summer -- I don't grow subtropicals from wet-summer areas as I don't have a heated greenhouse. Germination seems to be best if I keep the seeds dry at room temperature (the humidity is low here in summer) and plant them in September or October just as I do with Mediterranean-climate plants from the Northern Hemisphere. Then everything is on the same schedule once the plants are growing. Incidentally, one such species that is in flower now in the rock garden is Alstroemeria revoluta, a small but rapidly spreading one. It has stiffly upright stems about 20 cm tall, bearing numerous cool pink flowers with reflexed tepals. It's still contained (I think), so when it goes dormant in a month or so I'll move it to another area where it can spread to its heart's content without endangering smaller plants. It will be living with some Juno and Regelia irises, which are dormant by the time the alstroemerias make much growth and which keep their root systems higher up in the soil; I've found this combination suits both genera. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From oothal@hotmail.com Sat Aug 6 15:58:42 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 14:58:39 -0500 Hi All, Earlier some people were talking about keeping seed in the freezer. I remember reading last year on the internet about a large European program to find and store as many world wide native species seed as possible. I forget the name of the project. They were keeping the seed frozen, I presume in much colder temps than my deep freeze can produce. I am curious if South Africa has contributed any seed for that project. Since so many bulbous species are native there. Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a From johnstone.jr@gmail.com Sat Aug 6 16:25:23 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. R. Johnstone" Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 16:25:20 -0400 It is the Svalbard Global Seed Vault located on the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen. You can search for deposited seeds by country of origin on their site at: http://www.nordgen.org/sgsv/ Warmest regards, J. R. Johnstone Madison, West Virginia, U.S.A., Zone 6b On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 15:58, Justin Smith wrote: > > > > > Hi All,  Earlier some people were talking about keeping seed in the freezer. I remember reading last year on the internet about a large European program to find and store as many world wide native species seed as possible. I forget the name of the project. They were keeping the seed frozen, I presume in much colder temps than my deep freeze can produce.  I am curious if South Africa has contributed any seed for that project. Since so many bulbous species are native there.  Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From johnstone.jr@gmail.com Sat Aug 6 16:31:49 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. R. Johnstone" Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 16:31:46 -0400 My apologies, the exact link you want to use to search by country for species deposited is: http://www.nordgen.org/sgsv/index.php?app=data_unit&unit=sgsv_template Warmest regards, J. R. Johnstone Madison, West  Virginia, U.S.A., Zone 6b On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 16:25, J. R. Johnstone wrote: > It is the Svalbard Global Seed Vault located on the Norwegian island > of Spitsbergen. > > You can search for deposited seeds by country of origin on their site at: > > http://www.nordgen.org/sgsv/ > > > Warmest regards, > > > > J. R. Johnstone > Madison, West  Virginia, U.S.A., Zone 6b > > > > > On Sat, Aug 6, 2011 at 15:58, Justin Smith wrote: >> >> >> >> >> Hi All,  Earlier some people were talking about keeping seed in the freezer. I remember reading last year on the internet about a large European program to find and store as many world wide native species seed as possible. I forget the name of the project. They were keeping the seed frozen, I presume in much colder temps than my deep freeze can produce.  I am curious if South Africa has contributed any seed for that project. Since so many bulbous species are native there.  Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat Aug 6 17:17:29 2011 Message-Id: <5tsrN3BR8aPOFweO@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: PBS Market Place Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2011 22:16:01 +0100 Hi, In message <20110806142732.CAB03E8A7D@lists.ibiblio.org>, Mary Sue Ittner writes >is that it not be commercial. If every time someone added something >to the PBS Market Place, it was announced to the group, it would >defeat the purpose. There are services that will send you an email every time a web page changes. http://www.changedetection.com came out first when I Googled. >David Pilling might also help her figure out how to add a >feed like he did for the wiki where every day you can look at a new bulb. >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/wikifeed/index.php An RSS feed would be an option. There are many ways of doing this, and a lot of software has it built in. A nice stand alone feed generator: http://www.softwaregarden.com/products/listgarden/ -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From jshields@indy.net Sun Aug 7 15:43:00 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110807151602.055fb5a0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 15:25:36 -0400 I talked with an expert on this several years ago. Some seeds cannot be frozen, of course. The baccate seeds of genera like Clivia, Crinum, Haemanthus, Scadoxus, Hymenocallis, Brunsvigia, Amaryllis, Nerine, and others are recalcitrant (i.e., refuse to go into dormancy) as well as being full of water and hence unfreezable. I was also told (and this was 30 years ago -- maybe things have changed?) that oily seeds like Hippeastrum and its relatives are very hard to preserve long-term. I guess they also do not tolerate freezing. This probably includes genera like Zephyranthes, Habranthus, Sprekelia, Rhodophiala, and even Worsleya. Pity; all the seeds of genera I'm most interested in cannot be preserved by drying or freezing. Jim Shields in Westfield, Indiana U.S.A. At 04:25 PM 8/6/2011 -0400, you wrote: >It is the Svalbard Global Seed Vault located on the Norwegian island >of Spitsbergen. > >You can search for deposited seeds by country of origin on their site at: > >http://www.nordgen.org/sgsv/ ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sun Aug 7 16:46:28 2011 Message-Id: <5ptrcTEWlvPOFwu6@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 21:45:10 +0100 Hi, This: http://www.davidpilling.com/primroses/crocosmia.jpg is a picture of Crocosmia beginning to bloom yesterday. I'm posting it because Jim Waddick reported on 26 June 2011 Crocosmia were starting to flower in Kansas City. That seemed early. I recall driving around (in the North of England) at the start of September in 2010 and noticing from the flowers that Crocosmia seemed to be growing wild in many places. The other reason is that these were "pass along plants", and didn't come with a name. They're about four feet or so high. Identification would be welcome. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From jshields@indy.net Sun Aug 7 16:50:45 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110807164747.055fb6e8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 16:50:51 -0400 My Crocosmia started blooming a couple weeks ago or so as well. We have had a very hot and rather dry summer so far. Today, Lycoris sanguinea is in bloom, the first Lycoris in bloom this season. My Lycoris squamigera are all shooting scapes up very quickly now, but still no flowers open at this point. Jim Shields in central Indiana, USA ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From ds429@comcast.net Sun Aug 7 17:08:51 2011 Message-Id: <2061150605.262821.1312751330566.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 21:08:50 +0000 (UTC) Our fellow member, Harold Koopowitz, has done extensive work in the preservation of seeds. Harold, will you give us some direction? Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.E. Shields" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, August 7, 2011 3:25:36 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Seed freezing I talked with an expert on this several years ago.  Some seeds cannot be frozen, of course.  The baccate seeds of genera like Clivia, Crinum, Haemanthus, Scadoxus, Hymenocallis, Brunsvigia, Amaryllis, Nerine, and others are recalcitrant (i.e., refuse to go into dormancy) as well as being full of water and hence unfreezable. I was also told (and this was 30 years ago -- maybe things have changed?) that oily seeds like Hippeastrum and its relatives are very hard to preserve long-term.  I guess they also do not tolerate freezing.  This probably includes genera like Zephyranthes, Habranthus, Sprekelia, Rhodophiala, and even Worsleya. Pity; all the seeds of genera I'm most interested in cannot be preserved by drying or freezing. Jim Shields in Westfield, Indiana U.S.A. At 04:25 PM 8/6/2011 -0400, you wrote: >It is the Svalbard Global Seed Vault located on the Norwegian island >of Spitsbergen. > >You can search for deposited seeds by country of origin on their site at: > >http://www.nordgen.org/sgsv/ ************************************************* Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Aug 7 17:39:27 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 21:39:25 +0000 Jim, seeds you mention can not be frozen for long term storage but they can be "put to sleep" if maintained at low temperatures (above freezing point of course) to be eventually sown at the proper time in either Hemisphere. From jshields@indy.net Sun Aug 7 17:52:23 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110807174528.055fb830@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Seed freezing Date: Sun, 07 Aug 2011 17:52:29 -0400 That's true. I've stored Crinum seeds for up to maybe 6 months in the fridge -- at about 39°F/4C. They go ahead and germinate (those that don't just rot), and the germinated seeds can be planted OK. Left in the fridge long enough, all end up rotted. Clivia seeds also keep in the fridge, for awhile. They seem to slowly lose viability in the fridge, until eventually -- after a few months -- few or none of them will germinate. I don't recall having tried to store other baccate seeds in the fridge. Do others have experience with storing "recalcitrant" seeds, perhaps of other genera? Jim Shields At 09:39 PM 8/7/2011 +0000, Alberto wrote: >Jim, seeds you mention can not be frozen for long term storage but they >can be "put to sleep" if maintained at low temperatures (above freezing >point of course) to be eventually sown at the proper time in either Hemisphere. > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From kjblack@pacbell.net Sun Aug 7 21:20:11 2011 Message-Id: <1312766407.64008.YahooMailClassic@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Fw: What's not blooming now - 08/07/11 Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 18:20:07 -0700 (PDT) not sure why this did not go through the first time ... but perhaps a second attempt will work ... From: Ken Subject: What's not blooming now - 08/07/11 To: pbs@lists.ibliblio.org Date: Sunday, August 7, 2011, 8:05 AM Not blooming now, but I am a bit excited by the Summer growth and foliage of some of my not-quite 4-year old Boophone disticha 'juveniles' ... and thought I would share:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6016616036/   In the future, I will attempt to plant the bulb's distichous foliage growth in parallel, as this clump of 8 bulbs loses some of the impact and looks kinda jumbled:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6016615026/   In this grouping, only the one largest bulb, which I purchased as a seedling 4 or 5 years ago, has bloomed for me.  The rest are my own seed-grown bulbs and I am hoping for bloom next year.  I have gotten other B.disticha to bloom at 4 years.   Ken Blackford San Diego, CA zone 10 ... possibly 11 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 8 18:02:45 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Was Seed freezing -now definition Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 20:48:16 -0500 >I don't recall having tried to store other baccate seeds in the fridge. Do >others have experience with storing "recalcitrant" seeds, perhaps of other >genera? > >Jim Shields Dear Jim, Not the most common of words, "baccate' is an adjective that means 1) "berry-like- referring to a fruit that is pulpy or 2) refers to a plant that produces berries. Now we all know a new word. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From petersirises@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 03:20:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Seed freezing Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 08:20:11 +0100 I have read of this delaying of Amarylliad seeds with cooler temperatures somewhere in the PBS before- there is a prolonged discussion on the conversion of growing cycles for different genera and seeds. In lower temperatures, I have sown South African seed of Nerines, Boophane and Haemanthus with delays of up to 4 months for full germination, thus putting the plants on a northern hemisphere growth cycle. Often they just won't get on with growing while it is too cold. The application of warmth to Clivia nobilis seeds in winter gave a dramatic increase in growth rate. I have also had delayed germination on Cyrtanthus helicticus which was sown 4 1/2 months ago and more are still germinating and I have seen similar behaviour on Cyrtanthus speciosus and Hippeastrum stylosum Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 7, 2011 at 10:52 PM, J.E. Shields wrote: > That's true. I've stored Crinum seeds for up to maybe 6 months in the > fridge -- at about 39°F/4C. They go ahead and germinate (those that don't > just rot), and the germinated seeds can be planted OK. Left in the fridge > long enough, all end up rotted. > > Clivia seeds also keep in the fridge, for awhile. They seem to slowly lose > viability in the fridge, until eventually -- after a few months -- few or > none of them will germinate. > > I don't recall having tried to store other baccate seeds in the fridge. Do > others have experience with storing "recalcitrant" seeds, perhaps of other > genera? > > Jim Shields > > > At 09:39 PM 8/7/2011 +0000, Alberto wrote: > > >Jim, seeds you mention can not be frozen for long term storage but they > >can be "put to sleep" if maintained at low temperatures (above freezing > >point of course) to be eventually sown at the proper time in either > Hemisphere. > > > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From bluecowno1@hotmail.com Mon Aug 8 03:22:13 2011 Message-Id: From: ZHOUKAI Subject: A updated version of the list of the nurseries which could export from China. Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:22:09 +0800 Hi! I am sorry! I am just a collector and have no company. Regards Kai > From: fierycloud2002@yahoo.com.tw > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 1 Aug 2011 11:11:56 +0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] A updated version of the list of the nurseries which could export from China. > > Hello: > I'm very interested in bulbs from China. > > Do you have a company which is registered on the list? > Because I have ask the AQSIQ via their message board. > http://dzwjyjgs.aqsiq.gov.cn/gzly/lyhf/ > They told me that only the companies which are on the list could entering > the exporting process now. (After 2007) > And no individual could import and export plants by any way officially from > the beggining to now. (So if someone declaims he had got bulbs from > someone from China , they might not be via the normal ways.) > > ps. most bulbs are still limited from China to Taiwan > https://fbfh.trade.gov.tw/rich/text/indexfh.asp. In the custom scale, there > are only Pleione, Tulip, Narcissus, Microstylis arianenis hayata > ,Hyacinth is accept. All the others are prohibited. > In the scale of inspection, because we blocks each other for decades, many > species are not evaluated officially. Most geophytes species needs a > firstly introduce process. (But most of them are prohibited to import as > above.) > > Su-Hong-Ciao > Taiwan > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: ZHOUKAI > To: > Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 21:54:40 +0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] A updated version of the list of the nurseries which > could export from China. > > > > > It is a pitty to hear this! As a bulb fan from China, I am sorry to know > the bad impression from the abroad. There are do some companys sell > fake things in China, but it happens everywhere in the world. > > > > By the way, if some of you are interested in some bulbs from China, > please let me know. I would like to give a hand for free. > > > > With Best Regards > > > > Kai > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From DalesMicro@aol.com Mon Aug 8 12:01:40 2011 Message-Id: <1b468.5e5e811b.3b71625c@aol.com> From: DalesMicro@aol.com Subject: Two Hymneocallis? from Mexico Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:01:32 -0400 (EDT) A couple more unidentified bulbs I found blooming in the wild in Mexico. Any help in ID'ing these plants (or directing me to an expert for this family or genus) would be appreciated . The first is from the edge of a Manglar on the lagoon side of the sand bar near Barra Coyuca, Guerrero (about 20 KM north west of Acapulco. It was growing in a place that floods, only a few meters above sea level. The plants are up to a meter tall, and the flowers over 15 cm in diameter. The pictures were taken on 30 July of this year. The link is: _http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Hymenocallis%20%20 from%20Barra%20de%20Coyuca%20Guerrero/_ (http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Hymenocallis%20%20from%20Barra%20de%20Coyuca%20Guerrer o/) The second is from a hillside just east of El Platanar, Estado de Mexico on a semi-arid, somewhat grazed, west facing, slope at an elevation of 1240 meters in the semi shade of a blooming but leafless Calabash tree. The plants, including the flower are up to 30 cm tall. I photographed this plant on 4 June of this year. The link for this plant is: _http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Small%20White%20Hy menocallis%20from%20El%20Platanar%20Mexico/_ (http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Small%20White%20Hymenocallis%20from%20El%20Platan ar%20Mexico/) Thanks again, Dale From alanidae@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 12:35:51 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Two Hymneocallis? from Mexico Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:35:50 -0400 Dale - The first one photos are of a Crinum spp. Taxonomically this is Crinum americanum these days though other names have been used for these populations in the past. I am not confident of my ability to identify for sure the Mexican Hymenocallis species though the one in your photos reminds me Hymenocallis graminifolia Alani Davis From jshields@indy.net Mon Aug 8 12:55:00 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110808125315.03c1fe50@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Two Hymneocallis? from Mexico Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 12:55:09 -0400 Dale, I agree with Alani. The Hymenocallis could be any of a dozen species; I'd have to see the plant -- leaves, bulb, and flower -- to try to identify it. Jim Shields At 12:35 PM 8/8/2011 -0400, you wrote: >Dale - > >The first one photos are of a Crinum spp. Taxonomically this is Crinum >americanum these days though other names have been used for these >populations in the past. I am not confident of my ability to identify for >sure the Mexican Hymenocallis species though the one in your photos reminds >me Hymenocallis graminifolia > >Alani Davis ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From btankers@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 17:47:23 2011 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 16:47:22 -0500 Jim in Kansas City: Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? The Chicago region has been inundated with rain/storms this summer with a lot of heat and humidity. I am anxiously (impatiently) watching for the first Lycoris spikes. Discussions in previous years had suggested the sometime sporadic flower spike production was linked to low soil moisture - which is certainly not an issue this year. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden USDA zone 5 Illinois, USA From plantnutga@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 17:57:21 2011 Message-Id: From: Erin Grace Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 17:57:20 -0400 send some rain down to parched South Georgia! My summer bulbs are sulking. Erin Grace, Thomasville, Georgia Zone 8b, Heat zone 9 Hotter than the surface of the sun, humid, and still in a drought From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 18:06:21 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: reminder: PBS northern California meeting Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 15:06:21 -0700 Good day to all, This is just a reminder that the 2010 PBS northern CA meeting is still scheduled for Saturday, August 27, 2010. If you have not RSVP, please visit *http://tinyurl.com/44hr3eg*.* *We already have 15 people signed up and it should be a small-ish and fun group meeting. Remember that the event is free to anyone, you just have to bring a pot-luck dish for lunch. I hope to see you there! Best, Nhu From dkramb@gmail.com Mon Aug 8 19:32:21 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Canna flaccida Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 19:32:20 -0400 I just noticed a spent bloom on Canna flaccida. I grew this from BX seed that arrived in winter. I grew indoors under lights through winter and planted them out this spring. I'm super happy that at least one will bloom already this season. Dennis in Cincinnati (I'll try to get photos later) From pcamusa@hotmail.com Mon Aug 8 21:24:24 2011 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 21:19:21 -0400 No sign of lycoris in SE Michigan yet I've been checking every morning to see if they are breaking through the stones. Mine are at the front of the cactus bed where they get full rainfall. We had a month that was quite dry when I gave them supplemental water with the cactus during growing season and then we've had a reasonable amount of rain for the past month. Regards, Phil Andrews > Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 16:47:22 -0500 > From: btankers@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Lycoris Season yet? > > Jim in Kansas City: > > Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? > > The Chicago region has been inundated with rain/storms this summer with a > lot of heat and humidity. I am anxiously (impatiently) watching for the > first Lycoris spikes. Discussions in previous years had suggested the > sometime sporadic flower spike production was linked to low soil moisture - > which is certainly not an issue this year. > > Many thanks, > > Boyce Tankersley > Chicago Botanic Garden > USDA zone 5 > Illinois, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kellso@irvincentral.com Mon Aug 8 22:02:28 2011 Message-Id: <4E408BA3.7020405@irvincentral.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 08 Aug 2011 20:21:39 -0500 Jim in Kansas City: > Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? Nothing here, yet, either. Very late. We've been totally dry for July and August with temperatures up to 106°F in the shade. Might get a decent rain tonight after getting about 1/16" today. I drip irrigated last week, but still nothing. --Kelly From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Tue Aug 9 00:46:59 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 06:46:58 +0200 L squamigera has just finished here. It started about 2 weeks ago. Janos Z5a, Hungary From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue Aug 9 01:28:59 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: reminder: PBS northern California meeting Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 22:28:58 -0700 Hi everyone, I think I'm still stuck in 2010 and sent the wrong date. The actual date of this year's meeting is of course August 27, 2011. Here is the link to RSVP again. http://tinyurl.com/44hr3eg. Nhu From antigre10@yahoo.gr Tue Aug 9 02:51:06 2011 Message-Id: <1312872663.14218.YahooMailNeo@web29304.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Σχετ: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 07:51:03 +0100 (BST) Hello all,   Hedychium coccineum v. angustifolium   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8080014.jpg http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8080011.jpg http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8080007.jpg   Tricyrtis Small Wonder   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8090046.jpg http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8090030.jpg http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8090026.jpg Απο: J.E. Shields Προς: Pacific Bulb Society Στάλθηκε: 11:50 μ.μ. Κυριακή, 7 Αυγούστου 2011 Θεμα: Re: [pbs] What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 My Crocosmia started blooming a couple weeks ago or so as well.  We have had a very hot and rather dry summer so far. Today, Lycoris sanguinea is in bloom, the first Lycoris in bloom this season.  My Lycoris squamigera are all shooting scapes up very quickly now, but still no flowers open at this point. Jim Shields in central Indiana, USA ************************************************* Jim Shields            USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From mmattus@charter.net Tue Aug 9 07:02:16 2011 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 07:02:14 -0400 I am attempting to grow Lycoris in my zone 5 Massachusetts garden, for the first time this year. Last year I was gifted with 50 bulbs which I planted along the greenhouse where there is a raised bed. I felt that this might be a more protected area from frosts. After last winter's snow ( 5 feet by mid January, and higher where they were planted because it slid off of the greenhouse roof), I don't know how well they survived. No sign of new growth yet,but I repotted Cyclamen species yesterday and they are still all dormant ( sans one) and last year they were all budded by this week. Matt Mattus Zone 5 Worcester, MA USA On 8/8/11 9:21 PM, "Kelly Irvin" wrote: > Jim in Kansas City: >> Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? > > Nothing here, yet, either. Very late. We've been totally dry for July > and August with temperatures up to 106°F in the shade. Might get a > decent rain tonight after getting about 1/16" today. I drip irrigated > last week, but still nothing. > > --Kelly > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 9 10:06:37 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 09:05:03 -0500 >Jim in Kansas City: > >Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? > Dear Boyce and all, Sorry for this late reply a combo of cable outage and busy-ness. Yes and NO. We've had record heat and high humidity, but almost no rain. I firmly belive that Lycoris bloom is initiated by rainfall. We have suffered through drought even as the nearby MO river has been flooding. Too much of both hot and wet, just not together. Anyway last week two small clumps of L. longituba sent up flower stems. One in sun and one in shade. Neither has had any supplemental water in weeks. Both look normal for flower number and stem height. But only 2 small clumps. BUT longituba is usually NOT the first to bloom. The first is usually L. sanguinea and no sign there. Then L. squamigera comes slightly before longituba. My cable outage was due to a sudden severe storm and an inch of rain. That was Sunday. I fully expect to see flowering stems coming up today or tomorrow. I'll report back then. I have been hearing of various Lycoris blooming from Alabama north in the last week to 10 days. It sure should be Lycoris season and if you've had plenty of rain you might be in for bonanza. Best to all. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From blee811@aol.com Tue Aug 9 10:24:38 2011 Message-Id: <8CE24B72DD3484D-1644-6484A@webmail-m145.sysops.aol.com> From: blee811@aol.com Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:24:27 -0400 (EDT) The lycoris are all blooming here in my Cincinnati garden. I have them planted in several different spots and they're all in bloom. We've had alternating dry and wet periods this season. Bill Lee -----Original Message----- From: P. C. Andrews To: pbs Sent: Mon, Aug 8, 2011 9:29 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris Season yet? o sign of lycoris in SE Michigan yet I've been checking every morning to see f they are breaking through the stones. Mine are at the front of the cactus ed where they get full rainfall. We had a month that was quite dry when I gave hem supplemental water with the cactus during growing season and then we've had reasonable amount of rain for the past month. egards, hil Andrews > Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 16:47:22 -0500 From: btankers@gmail.com To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Lycoris Season yet? Jim in Kansas City: Have your Lycoris started to bloom yet? The Chicago region has been inundated with rain/storms this summer with a lot of heat and humidity. I am anxiously (impatiently) watching for the first Lycoris spikes. Discussions in previous years had suggested the sometime sporadic flower spike production was linked to low soil moisture - which is certainly not an issue this year. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden USDA zone 5 Illinois, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 9 10:59:17 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 09:59:13 -0500 > I fully expect to see flowering stems >coming up today or tomorrow. I'll report back then. Dear Friends, I wrote too soon. A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. Weeks of drought followed by an inch of rain and within 48 hours flowers stalks emerging. Coincidence? More later. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jshields@indy.net Tue Aug 9 11:12:06 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110809111004.0381cb40@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 11:12:14 -0400 I don't think it's much of a coincidence. We had an inch of rain about 10 days ago -- the first in over 3 weeks -- and several days ago the first Lycoris stalk appeared. Today they're up everywhere. Jim Shields At 09:59 AM 8/9/2011 -0500, you wrote: >....... A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging >from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. > > Weeks of drought followed by an inch of rain and within 48 >hours flowers stalks emerging. Coincidence? > > More later. > > Best Jim W. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From dszeszko@gmail.com Tue Aug 9 12:45:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Szeszko Subject: Two Hymenocallis? from Mexico Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 11:45:05 -0500 Dale: I agree with others who have chimed in that the first "Hymenocallis" is actually a Crinum. The seeds of these species float so it may have escaped cultivation and floated to the edge of the mangrove where you found it. The second set of pictures, however, so belong to a Hymenocallis species. There are two species that are reported from that part of Mexico State. They are: 1. *Hymenocallis** harrisiana*. Herb. 2. *Hymenocallis** littoralis*. (Jacq.) Salisb. The first species is definitely much more common and is almost always found in gallery forest growing at the edges of small rivers. It has acute, linear leaves that are not very wide. Also the segments of the flowers are very narrow. The second species is less common but there are verified reports of plants found in tropical deciduous forest. Also, it does not have such high moisture requirements like H. harrisiana. If I had to take a guess, I would say that your plant is likely H. littoralis, but without seeing it in person it's impossible to be certain. -Dennis Message: 1 Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 12:01:32 -0400 (EDT) From: DalesMicro@aol.com Subject: [pbs] Two Hymneocallis? from Mexico To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: <1b468.5e5e811b.3b71625c@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" A couple more unidentified bulbs I found blooming in the wild in Mexico. Any help in ID'ing these plants (or directing me to an expert for this family or genus) would be appreciated . The first is from the edge of a Manglar on the lagoon side of the sand bar near Barra Coyuca, Guerrero (about 20 KM north west of Acapulco. It was growing in a place that floods, only a few meters above sea level. The plants are up to a meter tall, and the flowers over 15 cm in diameter. The pictures were taken on 30 July of this year. The link is: _http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Hymenocallis%20%20 from%20Barra%20de%20Coyuca%20Guerrero/_ (http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Hymenocallis %20%20from%20Barra%20de%20Coyuca%20Guerrer o/ ) The second is from a hillside just east of El Platanar, Estado de Mexico on a semi-arid, somewhat grazed, west facing, slope at an elevation of 1240 meters in the semi shade of a blooming but leafless Calabash tree. The plants, including the flower are up to 30 cm tall. I photographed this plant on 4 June of this year. The link for this plant is: _http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Small%20White%20Hy menocallis%20from%20El%20Platanar%20Mexico/_ ( http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Small%20White%20Hymenocallis%20from%20El%20Platan ar%20Mexico/ ) Thanks again, Dale On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 6:02 AM, wrote: > http://s1194.photobucket.com/albums/aa373/Dale_el_gringo/Small%20White%20Hy > menocallis%20from%20El%20Platanar%20Mexico/_ From DalesMicro@aol.com Tue Aug 9 13:27:36 2011 Message-Id: <5fac3.5169213e.3b72c805@aol.com> From: DalesMicro@aol.com Subject: Two Hymneocallis? from Mexico (DalesMicro@aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:27:34 -0400 (EDT) Thanks Jim and Alani for you input. I will try to go back and see if I can find a few seeds to plant so I can get pictures of the bulb etc. If I find some I will ask for some tips on planting and growing them. Regards, Dale From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue Aug 9 13:47:17 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 10:47:15 -0700 Hi all, Ammocharis coronica bloomed for the first time this year. It is a beautiful wine red form that was grown in Hawaii for a few years and bulked up very quickly. After a nice and cool dry winter, it is now blooming. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6020733359/ Also blooming is Strumaria aestivalis, and just this morning, I noticed an inflorescence of Nerine sarniensis 'Corusca Major' peaking out of the soil. This is also a first time bloomer. Exciting stuff! Nhu Berkeley, CA From eagle.85@verizon.net Tue Aug 9 13:55:27 2011 Message-Id: <002C1884-B11C-465B-A83C-D57C9737D043@verizon.net> From: Douglas Westfall Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:55:07 -0700 :\, Nhu Nguyen > That is a beautiful flower. You are fortunate to have it! Doug From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 9 15:56:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 19:56:42 +0000 Nhu, if you water it really well, a second inflorescence will appear in the same season. From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue Aug 9 15:59:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:59:35 -0700 Thanks, Alberto, I will keep watering. This plant is quite thirsty. Nhu On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Nhu, if you water it really well, a second inflorescence will appear in the > same season. > > -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/ From zigur@hotmail.com Tue Aug 9 16:02:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 13:02:11 -0700 Mine usually manages 3. T > Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:59:35 -0700 > From: xerantheum@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming this week 8/7/2011 > > Thanks, Alberto, I will keep watering. This plant is quite thirsty. > > Nhu > From paige@hillkeep.ca Tue Aug 9 17:43:28 2011 Message-Id: <923ACDC49BA5482CA394A1B2483473C5@m6u3j5> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Nomenclature changes, was Publishing taxa in Latin and in print Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 14:01:07 -0700 The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature is no more. Instead we have the International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants. The text below is available from at least a couple of sources, but I have cribbed it from BEN (Botanical Electronic News) no. 441, received yesterday. I would simply provide a link to the BEN archive at http://www.ou.edu/cas/botany-micro/ben/ but this issue is not yet posted there. ------------------------ IMPORTANT DECISIONS OF THE NOMENCLATURE SECTION OF THE XVIII INTERNATIONAL BOTANICAL CONGRESS, MELBOURNE, 18-22 JULY 2011 From: John McNeill, Rapporteur-général, Nomenclature Section, XVIII IBC, Melbourne 24-29 July 2011 1) Electronic publication The Nomenclature Section accepted a proposal to add the words in bold to Art. 29.1 and also accepted a number of corollary proposals, the effect of the more important of which is described below: "29.1. Publication is effected, under this _Code_, by distribution Of printed matter (through sale, exchange or gift) to the general public or At least to botanical institutions with libraries accessible to botanists generally. (BOLD-STARTS) Publication is also effected by electronic distribution of material in Portable Document Format (PDF; see also Rec. 29A.0) in an online serial publication with an International Standard Serial Number (ISSN) or an International Standard Book Number (ISBN) (BOLD-ENDS) Publication is not effected by communication of new names at a public meeting, by the placing of names in collections or gardens open to the public, by the issue of microfilm made from manuscripts, typescripts or other unpublished material, (BOLD-STARTS) or by distribution electronically other than as described above."(BOLD-ENDS) "29.2. For the purpose of this Article, 'online' is defined as accessible electronically via the World Wide Web." In order for any nomenclatural action, e.g. the description of a new species, the transfer of a species to a different genus, or actions (typifications) to fix the application of a name, to be effective, it must be "effectively published" Article 29 specifies what this means. Hitherto the distribution of printed matter has been necessary- now this may also be distribution of electronic material in pdf. The effective date of the new provisions is 1 January 2012, a year earlier than would be normal for implementation of a decision to change the _Code_'s requirements. There are also provisions establishing that the content of a particular electronic publication must not be altered after it is first issued and that a version indicated as preliminary is not effectively published. For published comment see: http://www.nature.com/news/2011/110720/full/news.2011.428.html 2) Modification of the Latin requirement Currently, in order to publish the name of a new taxon, e.g. a species, of non-fossil plants a description and/or a diagnosis in Latin must be provided. The Nomenclature Section modified this so that effective from 1 January 2012, the description and/or diagnosis may be in either English or Latin for valid publication of the name of all new taxa. [This is the current requirement for names of plant fossils, published on of after 1 January 1996 - previously for fossil plants it was any language.] Since 1935 a Latin description or diagnosis has been required for new taxa of all non-fossil plants, except algae, for which the requirement has existed since 1958. 3) "One fungus - one name" and "one fossil - one name" For over 30 years, the _International Code of Botanical Nomenclature_ has had provision for separate names for asexual and sexual morphs of those fungi whose life history involves such very different morphological expressions that, until recently, were commonly impossible to link one to the other. Molecular studies have changed this situation very substantially, and more and more connections are being made, so that the asexual phase (the anamorph) and the sexual phase (the teleomorph) of the one fungal species are increasingly being identified. As a result it has become increasingly anomalous to have separate names for the anamorph and the teleomorph phases of the one fungal species, and the concept of one name for one fungus has become increasingly supported by mycologists even with a _One Fungus - One Name_ symposium held earlier this year in Amsterdam, leading to an _Amsterdam Declaration_ seeking this change in the _Code_. The Nomenclature Section agreed to delete the Article (Art. 59) with the detailed provisions for anamorph and teleomorph names that included a restriction that the name applied to the whole fungus (the holomorph) had to be one that was based on a teleomorphic element. In the place of the current Art. 59, provisions to minimise nomenclatural change as a result of adopting the one fungus, one name principle. This change will take effect from 1 January 2013. The nomenclature of fossils falling under the _Code_ has had similar but even more extensive provisions for separate names for fossils that might prove to belong to the same species. In the current _Code_, a name based on a fossil applied only to the part of the organism, the life-history stage, or the preservational state represented by the fossil upon which the name was based. Named fossil taxa were therefore different from those of non-fossil organisms and were termed "morphotaxa". This meant that even if organic connections could be made between different fossils, there was no clear provision for naming the more complete organism. The Nomenclature Section decided to abandon the whole concept of morphotaxa, and as a result names of fossils will be exactly like other names, and if organic connections are made the earliest name applicable to the integrated fossil taxon will be the name to use, so as with fungi, the principle of "one fossil, one name" has been adopted. 4) "Registration" of names of fungi Most of the major journals publishing mycological papers currently require, as a condition of acceptance of the paper, that any new name being published includes a _MycoBank_ identifier. The Nomenclature Section agreed to go a step further and require this for valid publication of any new fungal name. The main components of the new Article are: "For organisms treated as fungi under this _Code_ (Pre.7), from 1 January 2013 the citation of an identifier issued by a recognized repository ... in the protologue is an additional requirement for valid publication. Further clauses explain that the minimum elements of information being registered must be those required for valid publication under the existing provisions of the _Code_ (Art. 32.1 (b-e)) and establish that the Nomenclature Committee for Fungi has the power to appoint "one or more localized or decentralized open and accessible electronic repositories to perform this function" to remove such repositories at its discretion; and even to set aside the requirement should the repository mechanism, cease to function. The currently appointed repository is _MycoBank_ (http://www.mycobank.org) 5) Title of the _Code_ In order to make clearer that the _Code_ covers fungi as well as green plants the Section agreed that the title should be: _International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants_, instead of the existing _International Code of Botanical Nomenclature_. ----------------------------------- This is part of Resolution 5 at the end of the congress. The complete list of resolutions is here. http://www.ibc2011.com/downloads/Resolutions%20final%2030%20Jul.pdf Paige Woodward From eagle.85@verizon.net Wed Aug 10 00:21:58 2011 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Amaryllis belladonna "Old Wine # 1 ? Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 21:21:56 -0700 Members of the Amaryllis Society Can anyone confirm this name? It was included ina a "partial" trade for Veltheimia bulbs several years ago. Doug Westfall (in Long Beach, California) From paige@hillkeep.ca Wed Aug 10 02:03:19 2011 Message-Id: <717339BE66A14CB8B81698EB0CD0B663@m6u3j5> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Good plant-science reads, was Nomenclature changes Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 23:03:02 -0700 There is a lot more to stimulate you on the website of last month's International Botanical Congress at http://www.ibc2011.com/. I recommend the program and the abstracts. Amid the blitherers there are thinkers; one can also recognize trends, fads, cabals, life forms reporting in from outer space and what may be pure static. If possible even more gripping is the final summary of proposals to amend the code for naming plants, which appeared in the journal Taxon for February 2011: http://www.botanik.univie.ac.at/iapt/downloads/synopsis.pdf . If you need a good laugh -- or a good cry -- read Article 51, on what shall become of the polyphyletic genus Acacia. Much more has been published on this topic but I will spare you. xo to all Paige ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pacific Rim" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 2:01 PM Subject: Nomenclature changes, was Publishing taxa in Latin and in print > The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature is no more. Instead we > have > the International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants. > From ixia@dcsi.net.au Wed Aug 10 04:48:45 2011 Message-Id: <0675D0B7187C4EE7B73E632D2057F16A@DAWN> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: James Waddickand Tecticornia Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:29:58 +1000 Hi all, I've sent two emails to James Waddick with no replies. I'm wondering if I have the corrext email address? Can anyone help? regards, Bill Richardson Ixiaking West Gippsland Victoria, Australia www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Wed Aug 10 10:22:21 2011 Message-Id: From: C W Mueller Subject: Good plant-science reads, was Nomenclature changes Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 09:22:09 -0500 Paige, we appreciate these tidbits from the rarefied atmosphere of high science.... Please keep them coming. -Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone On Aug 10, 2011, at 1:03 AM, "Pacific Rim" wrote: > There is a lot more to stimulate you on the website of last month's > International Botanical Congress at http://www.ibc2011.com/. I recommend the > program and the abstracts. Amid the blitherers there are thinkers; one can > also recognize trends, fads, cabals, life forms reporting in from outer > space and what may be pure static. > > If possible even more gripping is the final summary of proposals to amend > the code for naming plants, which appeared in the journal Taxon for February > 2011: http://www.botanik.univie.ac.at/iapt/downloads/synopsis.pdf . If you > need a good laugh -- or a good cry -- read Article 51, on what shall become > of the polyphyletic genus Acacia. Much more has been published on this topic > but I will spare you. > > xo to all > > Paige > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pacific Rim" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 2:01 PM > Subject: Nomenclature changes, was Publishing taxa in Latin and in print > > >> The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature is no more. Instead we >> have >> the International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants. >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From bonsaigai37@aol.com Wed Aug 10 10:33:19 2011 Message-Id: <8CE25818CD92CB1-1350-3C33B@webmail-m033.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: Plant science and good reads Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 10:33:05 -0400 (EDT) Oh, yes! Article 51 is definitely a good laugh. Without considering the volume of my bellow, I think I woke the entire lab. Keeping up with taxonomy is akin to herding cats - while it *can* be done, it has to be accomplished one cat at a time. Michael From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Wed Aug 10 10:51:42 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:39:10 +0200 Hallo all Today I was in my little greenhouse and saw that my Paramongaia has a flower bud. For the first time. Very exciting. I think it costs still a few weeks when the Paramongaia is flowering. I was reading when I will get seeds , I must have another clone/plant pollen. Is that right? And who can help me with pollen? Another question is, is there any possibility to cross this Paramongaia with another Amaryllidaceae? Such as Hippeastrum, Lycoris, Hymenocallis or so. Please let me know. Thank you very much for your advice Kind regards Ton Wijnen The Netherlands From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 10 11:09:09 2011 Message-Id: <20110810150908.1EFAFE8A33@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Amaryllis belladonna "Old Wine # 1 ? Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 08:02:50 -0700 Doug Westfall sent this as an attachment so it was held. I've uploaded it to the wiki, but won't add it to the Amaryllis wiki page as a named hybrid until someone confirms the name. >Can anyone confirm this name? From medstd@gmail.com Wed Aug 10 11:34:44 2011 Message-Id: From: m o Subject: FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:34:42 +0700 Dear Ton, Fantastic, Can you show a beautiful flower. I must see my self in a few years in Thailand. Thanin On Wednesday, August 10, 2011, Ton Wijnen wrote: > > > Hallo all > > > > Today I was in my little greenhouse and saw that my Paramongaia has a flower > bud. > > For the first time. Very exciting. > > I think it costs still a few weeks when the Paramongaia is flowering. > > I was reading when I will get seeds , I must have another clone/plant > pollen. > > Is that right? And who can help me with pollen? > > Another question is, is there any possibility to cross this Paramongaia with > another Amaryllidaceae? > > Such as Hippeastrum, Lycoris, Hymenocallis or so. > > > > Please let me know. > > > > Thank you very much for your advice > > > > Kind regards > > > > Ton Wijnen > > The Netherlands > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From awilson@avonia.com Wed Aug 10 12:39:42 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Good plant-science reads, was Nomenclature changes Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 09:39:47 -0700 Well, the congress was held in Australia, a fitting place in which to announce Acacia as the primary genus. It's name (from 1754) does at least precede Senegalia and Racosperma by many years. Andrew There is a lot more to stimulate you on the website of last month's International Botanical Congress at http://www.ibc2011.com/. I recommend the program and the abstracts. Amid the blitherers there are thinkers; one can also recognize trends, fads, cabals, life forms reporting in from outer space and what may be pure static. If possible even more gripping is the final summary of proposals to amend the code for naming plants, which appeared in the journal Taxon for February 2011: http://www.botanik.univie.ac.at/iapt/downloads/synopsis.pdf . If you need a good laugh -- or a good cry -- read Article 51, on what shall become of the polyphyletic genus Acacia. Much more has been published on this topic but I will spare you. xo to all Paige ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pacific Rim" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 2:01 PM Subject: Nomenclature changes, was Publishing taxa in Latin and in print > The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature is no more. Instead we > have > the International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants. > From pslate22@yahoo.com Wed Aug 10 13:26:52 2011 Message-Id: <1312997205.92172.YahooMailNeo@web111912.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: Electronic Publications Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 10:26:45 -0700 (PDT) Dear PBS friends, Here is the link to the current issue of Phytokeys, the e-journal (which is peer-reviewed) for topics of interest to all of us: http://www.pensoft.net/journals/phytokeys/issue/5/   It is free to everyone and articles can be downloaded in pdf. Pamela     Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From ds429@comcast.net Wed Aug 10 14:35:44 2011 Message-Id: <1975825488.88538.1313001342692.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 18:35:42 +0000 (UTC) Dear Ton, I've read that Pamianthe peruviana is the most closely related amaryllid to Paramongaia. I grow and bloom it, but I cannot get pollen again until next spring. Also, accor ding to what I have read, the so-called "pancratoid" amaryllids which have a central corona in the flowers like hymenocallis, phaedranassa, or stenomesson, are also related more closely than, e.g, hippeastrum. or rhodophiala or, much less, lycoris which is not from the New World. Personally, I'd lump them all into Senegalia and refer to them as Acacia in my personal correspondence so as not to offend any of the traditionalists.   Just kidding! Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ton Wijnen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 10:39:10 AM Subject: [pbs] FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri   Hallo all   Today I was in my little greenhouse and saw that my Paramongaia has a flower bud. For the first time. Very exciting. I think it costs still a few weeks when the Paramongaia is flowering. I was reading when I will get seeds , I must have another clone/plant pollen. Is that right? And who can help me with pollen? Another question is, is there any possibility to cross this Paramongaia with another Amaryllidaceae? Such as Hippeastrum, Lycoris, Hymenocallis or so.   Please let me know.   Thank you very much for your advice   Kind regards   Ton Wijnen The Netherlands _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Wed Aug 10 14:47:26 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 20:47:12 +0200 Hallo Dell Thank you very much for your advice. Kind regards Ton -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens ds429@comcast.net Verzonden: woensdag 10 augustus 2011 20:36 Aan: Pacific Bulb Society Onderwerp: Re: [pbs] FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri Dear Ton, I've read that Pamianthe peruviana is the most closely related amaryllid to Paramongaia. I grow and bloom it, but I cannot get pollen again until next spring. Also, accor ding to what I have read, the so-called "pancratoid" amaryllids which have a central corona in the flowers like hymenocallis, phaedranassa, or stenomesson, are also related more closely than, e.g, hippeastrum. or rhodophiala or, much less, lycoris which is not from the New World. Personally, I'd lump them all into Senegalia and refer to them as Acacia in my personal correspondence so as not to offend any of the traditionalists.   Just kidding! Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ton Wijnen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 10:39:10 AM Subject: [pbs] FW: Paramongaia wederbaueri   Hallo all   Today I was in my little greenhouse and saw that my Paramongaia has a flower bud. For the first time. Very exciting. I think it costs still a few weeks when the Paramongaia is flowering. I was reading when I will get seeds , I must have another clone/plant pollen. Is that right? And who can help me with pollen? Another question is, is there any possibility to cross this Paramongaia with another Amaryllidaceae? Such as Hippeastrum, Lycoris, Hymenocallis or so.   Please let me know.   Thank you very much for your advice   Kind regards   Ton Wijnen The Netherlands _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed Aug 10 15:24:11 2011 Message-Id: <141B6325-43CD-45A3-A215-86456F9B282D@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Paramongaia wederbaueri Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:24:03 -0300 This sounds like you have the high elevation form that comes from the Andes (which blooms much later) rather than the low elevation coastal form (which blooms early, in late winter). Your form is more difficult to find here in California. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Aug 10, 2011, at 11:39 AM, Ton Wijnen wrote: > Hallo all > > > > Today I was in my little greenhouse and saw that my Paramongaia has a flower > bud. > > For the first time. Very exciting. > > I think it costs still a few weeks when the Paramongaia is flowering. > From plicht@berkeley.edu Wed Aug 10 16:26:38 2011 Message-Id: <4E42E985.1090604@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:26:45 -0700 Back in March, there was the following posting from a Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs * -------- Original Message -------- * *Subject: * *[pbs] Haemanthus deformis* *Date: * *Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT)* *From: * *Warren Keller * *Reply-To: * *Pacific Bulb Society * *To: * *pbs@lists.ibiblio.org * *Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i live in california. Warren * I called this to the attention of one of our Garden people who pursued the offer and after an active correspondence was told he would need to send a money order in advance. I just learned today that , unfortunately, after sending the money order, he has never heard back from Mr. Keller: no bulbs, no explanation and no response to monthly follow ups. BE WARNED! -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu From dkramb@gmail.com Wed Aug 10 16:52:42 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:52:39 -0400 I did some investigating on Google... and found another recent victim of his on GardenWeb. http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/raterev/msg0520402416825.html On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 4:26 PM, Paul Licht wrote: > Back in March, there was the following posting from a > Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs > * > -------- Original Message -------- * > > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed Aug 10 17:10:35 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:05:30 -0700 Greetings, Paul - you must have missed the multiple postings regarding Mr. Keller and his fraudulent trade offers. More than a few listers were burned in trades with Mr. Keller and I was almost one of them. In my case, I responded to Mr. Keller's offer of Haemanthus crispus. Mr. Keller asked me for Massonias in trade and I sent him 6 bulbs plus a small Eriospermum. Like the other trades, he claimed the package never arrived. Since I had confirmed delivery, I knew this was not the case. Once it was clear he was not going to be sending me a trade without encouragement, I offered to visit Mr. Keller at his home and personally assist him with returning my bulbs to me. After a series of varying responses, Mr. Keller finally notified me that he would be sending me 1/2 the bulbs we had agreed upon. Lo and behold, 2 large Haemanthus bulbs actually arrived a week later. Whether these bulbs are actually H. crispus I do not know yet. I have suspicions they may be bulbs he defrauded from another list member. Whether Mr. Keller was strategically unscrupulous or innocently demented I couldn't decide. -| Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 13:26:45 -0700 > From: plicht@berkeley.edu > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Problem with bulb offer > > Back in March, there was the following posting from a > Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs > * > -------- Original Message -------- * > *Subject: * *[pbs] Haemanthus deformis* > *Date: * *Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT)* > *From: * *Warren Keller * > *Reply-To: * *Pacific Bulb Society * > *To: * *pbs@lists.ibiblio.org * > > *Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i > am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized > bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let > everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i > live in california. Warren * > > I called this to the attention of one of our Garden people > who pursued the offer and after an active correspondence was > told he would need to send a money order in advance. I just > learned today that , unfortunately, after sending the money > order, he has never heard back from Mr. Keller: no bulbs, no > explanation and no response to monthly follow ups. > > BE WARNED! > > -- > Paul Licht, Director > University of California Botanical Garden > 200 Centennial Drive > Berkeley, CA 94720 > (510)-643-8999 > http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerics@cox.net Wed Aug 10 17:22:51 2011 Message-Id: <003f01cc57a2$a3c6b950$eb542bf0$@net> From: "Richard" Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:15:32 -0700 This guy has screwed a lot of us. I have filed a case against him through the fraud department of the US Postal Service. Chances are it will never be pursued. Maybe if everyone did this it would become an issue. Richard Wagner Vista CA -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Paul Licht Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 1:27 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Problem with bulb offer Back in March, there was the following posting from a Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs * -------- Original Message -------- * *Subject: * *[pbs] Haemanthus deformis* *Date: * *Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT)* *From: * *Warren Keller * *Reply-To: * *Pacific Bulb Society * *To: * *pbs@lists.ibiblio.org * *Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i live in california. Warren * I called this to the attention of one of our Garden people who pursued the offer and after an active correspondence was told he would need to send a money order in advance. I just learned today that , unfortunately, after sending the money order, he has never heard back from Mr. Keller: no bulbs, no explanation and no response to monthly follow ups. BE WARNED! -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu From joshuakyleyoung@gmail.com Wed Aug 10 17:17:27 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Hippeastrum iguazuanum & teyucuarense cultivation Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 17:17:26 -0400 Hi Guys, I received bulbs of these two species recently from a very good friend, I would like to ask other members if they grow these wonderful species and if so, how? I've researched them myself but it's always helpful to hear others advice and opinions!? Any advice is appreciated!! Josh Central IN From petersirises@gmail.com Wed Aug 10 17:27:28 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Good plant-science reads, was Nomenclature changes Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:27:24 +0100 and I thought statutes made hard reading.... On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 5:39 PM, AW wrote: > Well, the congress was held in Australia, a fitting place in which to > announce Acacia as the primary genus. It's name (from 1754) does at least > precede Senegalia and Racosperma by many years. > > Andrew > > There is a lot more to stimulate you on the website of last month's > International Botanical Congress at http://www.ibc2011.com/. I recommend > the > program and the abstracts. Amid the blitherers there are thinkers; one can > also recognize trends, fads, cabals, life forms reporting in from outer > space and what may be pure static. > > If possible even more gripping is the final summary of proposals to amend > the code for naming plants, which appeared in the journal Taxon for > February > 2011: http://www.botanik.univie.ac.at/iapt/downloads/synopsis.pdf . If you > need a good laugh -- or a good cry -- read Article 51, on what shall become > of the polyphyletic genus Acacia. Much more has been published on this > topic > but I will spare you. > > xo to all > > Paige > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pacific Rim" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 2:01 PM > Subject: Nomenclature changes, was Publishing taxa in Latin and in print > > > > The International Code of Botanical Nomenclature is no more. Instead we > > have > > the International Code of Nomenclature for algae, fungi, and plants. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From plicht@berkeley.edu Wed Aug 10 17:53:42 2011 Message-Id: <4E42FDED.4000603@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:53:49 -0700 Pity noone called this to the groups attention earlier. While I am reluctant to 'criticize', without out, little gets fixed. Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On 8/10/2011 2:15 PM, Richard wrote: > This guy has screwed a lot of us. I have filed a case against > him through the fraud department of the US Postal Service. > Chances are it will never be pursued. Maybe if everyone did this > it would become an issue. > > Richard Wagner > Vista CA > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Paul Licht > Sent: Wednesday, August 10, 2011 1:27 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Problem with bulb offer > > Back in March, there was the following posting from a > Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs > * > -------- Original Message -------- * > *Subject: * *[pbs] Haemanthus deformis* > *Date: * *Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT)* > *From: * *Warren Keller* > *Reply-To: * *Pacific Bulb Society* > *To: * *pbs@lists.ibiblio.org* > > *Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i > am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized > bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let > everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i > live in california. Warren * > > I called this to the attention of one of our Garden people > who pursued the offer and after an active correspondence was > told he would need to send a money order in advance. I just > learned today that , unfortunately, after sending the money > order, he has never heard back from Mr. Keller: no bulbs, no > explanation and no response to monthly follow ups. > > BE WARNED! > From claudesweet@cox.net Wed Aug 10 19:35:02 2011 Message-Id: <4E431341.2030906@cox.net> From: Claude Sweet Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 16:24:49 -0700 Paul Licht wrote: >Back in March, there was the following posting from a >Warren Keller offered some choice Haemanthus deformis bulbs >* >-------- Original Message -------- * >*Subject: * *[pbs] Haemanthus deformis* >*Date: * *Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT)* >*From: * *Warren Keller * >*Reply-To: * *Pacific Bulb Society * >*To: * *pbs@lists.ibiblio.org * > >*Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i >am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized >bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let >everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i >live in california. Warren * > >I called this to the attention of one of our Garden people >who pursued the offer and after an active correspondence was >told he would need to send a money order in advance. I just >learned today that , unfortunately, after sending the money >order, he has never heard back from Mr. Keller: no bulbs, no >explanation and no response to monthly follow ups. > >BE WARNED! > > > Paul, I also responded with a check for $75 that was cashed, but I never received any bulbs. I wonder how many got scammed by this individual? Claude Sweet San Diego, CA From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 10 23:06:58 2011 Message-Id: <20110811030657.B2B6FE8A36@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 20:06:19 -0700 Hi Paul, This was discussed on the list in April. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2011-April/subject.html#start Look for the subject Haemanthus D. and Haemanthus crispus. Diana Chapman posted the troubles she had with him. She wanted to warn everyone. Our list generates a lot of posts and I'm sure most people don't look at all of them and you may have missed her post. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2011-April/029351.html Although she did not include his last name, when Kipp responded to her he used the word Keller and included her message so if you search for Warren Keller pbs list on Google you will find his post and hers. It appears that Warren got so many responses to his offer that he didn't respond to all of them. Those people who did not hear back from him were the lucky ones. An additional sad thing about this was that so many people on this list were helpful to Warren when he had questions and offered to help him obtain items he was looking for. Both Jim Waddick and I wrote to him privately. Our notes were kinder than he deserved. He never responded to mine, but continued to send unpleasant inflammatory messages to the list after I decided to moderate his posts. None of them were approved. He is no longer a member of the list. Mary Sue >Pity noone called this to the groups attention earlier. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Aug 11 10:06:13 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:52:13 -0500 > > I fully expect to see flowering stems >>coming up today or tomorrow. I'll report back then. > >Dear Friends, > I wrote too soon. > > A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging >from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. Dear Friends, Amazing what an inch of rain can pull from the ground. Now 2 days after seeing nothing I have stalks emerging from L. squamigera, L. sprengeri. L. chinensis. L. longituba and some of their hybrids. These range from just poking out of the ground and up many in the 4 to 8 inch range and one clump of L. squamigera probably to bloom tomorrow and join the earliest L. longituba. Still no sign of L. sanguinea More rain equals more Lycoris. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ixia@dcsi.net.au Thu Aug 11 00:56:10 2011 Message-Id: <88A604773CD044E2B2426E47FCCED4DB@DAWN> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Waddick email address Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 14:56:10 +1000 Hi Robert, Gary, et all, thanks to all those who replied re email address. Apparently I had the correct email, Jim has emailed me to say he was having internet difficulties. All the help much appreciated. regards, Bill Richardson From dkramb@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 01:14:26 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Problem with bulb offer Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 01:14:23 -0400 I researched this guy's background online but didn't find anything of serious concern. Sorry - this is way OT but it might be of interest to whoever got taken by him. His Facebook profile... http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000903370855&sk=info Santa Barbara County civil court records list his name in several cases. But the criminal court records aren't accessible online, so I can't determine if he was ever charged with theft or fraud. http://www.sbcourts.org/pubindex/CIVILindex.php And this last site is... odd. http://www.cpixel.com/searchp.asp?person=Hobgoblin426&rv=1 He's does a lot of chatting on gaming websites, home electronics sites, and also on GardenWeb, under the username warrengk. If nothing else, at least now you can put a face with the name. From ron_redding@hotmail.com Thu Aug 11 02:28:39 2011 Message-Id: From: Ronald Redding Subject: The Scam Continues Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:23:37 +1000 I would like to add that this gentleman is now targeting individuals, He is using lists such as Jim Sheild's bulb sources page, so it may be only a matter of time before we all are contacted, thankfully I remember Diana's warning and replied that it was good for him that he had all these fabulous bulb's to offer. I am sorry that people will have lost faith due to this individual however am thankful to Diane and if I remember correctly several others for their posts. Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 20:06:19 -0700 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: msittner@mcn.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Problem with bulb offer > > Hi Paul, > > This was discussed on the list in April. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2011-April/subject.html#start > > Look for the subject Haemanthus D. and Haemanthus crispus. Diana > Chapman posted the troubles she had with him. She wanted to warn > everyone. From ron_redding@hotmail.com Thu Aug 11 02:33:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Ronald Redding Subject: FW: Referred by SOURCES page of GreatLakesBulb site ANOTHER SCAM? Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 16:33:28 +1000 Here is also another message I have received, looks like we collectors are being targeted. I am not sure if this is also a scam however it smells like one. Anyone else had this message? Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia From: ron_redding@hotmail.com To: cycadia@sbcglobal.net Subject: RE: Referred by SOURCES page of GreatLakesBulb site Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 07:16:58 +1000 Good for you! Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 12:46:40 -0700 > From: cycadia@sbcglobal.net > Subject: Referred by SOURCES page of GreatLakesBulb site > To: ron_redding@hotmail.com > > I HAVE 100 BOOPHANE DISTICHIA 13-15 CM DIA $35.00 FOB NORTRIDGE > > REGARDS > ROBERT From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 02:42:58 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 23:42:56 -0700 Hi Everyone ! I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. From davidfenwicksnr@googlemail.com Thu Aug 11 02:59:57 2011 Message-Id: <38C421A844E14DD88ABF25CA0EE706B4@david8op7y0t1o> From: "David Fenwick" Subject: ANOTHERSCAM? Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 07:59:47 +0100 >>>>> I HAVE 100 BOOPHANE DISTICHIA 13-15 CM DIA $35.00 FOB NORTRIDGE We've had trouble like this before; a few members will remember the ''World Bulbs'' saga; which originated in the UK and involved the best bulb images from around the web being used to sell South African bulbs from a website ''allegedly'' created to aid the fraud. In that instance some bulbs did exist, the so called owner of World Bulbs had purchased some bulbs from a well known supplier in South Africa and didn't pay for them. Many people bought and paid for bulbs that didn't arrive. The owner of the site could only be contacted via a post office box. The bulbs being offered now may or may not exist; but after what has happened in the past it might be interesting to find out who has ''originally'' supplied the bulbs, prior to purchasing. It may also help prevent the acquisition of illegally collected material as one will have the option of contacting the original supplier. Personally I get very suspicious if a seller does not provide his address and phone number. Just a thought. Best Wishes, Dave David Fenwick Penzance, Cornwall, UK. From aoleary@esc.net.au Thu Aug 11 04:24:43 2011 Message-Id: From: "Alan O'Leary" Subject: Hello Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 17:36:00 +0930 Welcome aboard Steven. You have similar interests to me. Whereabouts in Australia do you live? Alan O'Leary Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A ----- Original Message ----- From: "steven hart" To: Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM Subject: [pbs] Hello > Hi Everyone ! > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 04:41:01 2011 Message-Id: <4E4395A2.7030003@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Hello Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 20:41:06 +1200 Hello Steven Welcome to the PBS. What sort of Ameryllids are you growing? Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand >> Hi Everyone ! >> >> I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago& >> collect Crinums, Amerillys& various other goodies. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 06:01:41 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: ANOTHERSCAM? Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 03:01:34 -0700 Thanks for the heads up Dave :-) I'm suspicious of everybody now days & I'm just a spring chicken. We live in a time of cyber crime beyond our understanding. Recently a woman near me was drugged by a chemical handed to her on a business card. Its hard to keep a step ahead of the bad guys but the only way is to keep watching where you step....... But in my garden i am Emperor of the jewels ! Steven On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 11:59 PM, David Fenwick < davidfenwicksnr@googlemail.com> wrote: > >>>>> I HAVE 100 BOOPHANE DISTICHIA 13-15 CM DIA $35.00 FOB NORTRIDGE > > We've had trouble like this before; a few members will remember the ''World > Bulbs'' saga; which originated in the UK and involved the best bulb images > from around the web being used to sell South African bulbs from a website > ''allegedly'' created to aid the fraud. In that instance some bulbs did > exist, the so called owner of World Bulbs had purchased some bulbs from a > well known supplier in South Africa and didn't pay for them. Many people > bought and paid for bulbs that didn't arrive. The owner of the site could > only be contacted via a post office box. > > The bulbs being offered now may or may not exist; but after what has > happened in the past it might be interesting to find out who has > ''originally'' supplied the bulbs, prior to purchasing. It may also help > prevent the acquisition of illegally collected material as one will have > the > option of contacting the original supplier. > > Personally I get very suspicious if a seller does not provide his address > and phone number. > > Just a thought. > > Best Wishes, > Dave > > David Fenwick > Penzance, Cornwall, UK. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 06:17:14 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 03:17:12 -0700 Hi Alan I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here high dry peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. Lots of due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some Madagascan Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot of new email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, i work from friday until Monday 3am till late so its early to bed for me, i only get a few hours sleep on weekends On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary wrote: > Welcome aboard Steven. > > You have similar interests to me. > > Whereabouts in Australia do you live? > > Alan O'Leary > Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "steven hart" > To: > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM > Subject: [pbs] Hello > > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 06:32:55 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 03:32:50 -0700 Hi Ina I don't have a big collection but have a passion for collecting Crinums, I love them & i'm surrounded by thousands of hectares of forestry & rain forest so there is loads of wild critters that love to dig in the gardens, but the Crinums can do it all, drought, animals, bugs, cold.........They have even survived the onslaught of my sweet but extremely naughty little cashmere goats, munching everything down to ground level....... I have some hippeastrums & heaps of regular stuff, tuberoses & liliums, different crocus species & saffron does well here surprisingly. Lots of different crinums, but i've barely scratched the surface My mountain top is dry & the only soil is a thin layer i have created over 10 years or so. The bulbs & lilies are survivors, where little else can live........ Harsh words i know & i'm a green finger haha.......... On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:41 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Hello Steven > > Welcome to the PBS. > > What sort of Ameryllids are you growing? > > Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand > > > >> Hi Everyone ! > >> > >> I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago& > >> collect Crinums, Amerillys& various other goodies. > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jshields@indy.net Thu Aug 11 10:19:48 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110811101439.05865390@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:19:47 -0400 My Lycoris sanguinea started blooming a few days ago, then yesterday many of my squamigera burst into bloom! We had less heat here than Jim W. did in Kansas City, but no rain until about 10-14 days ago. Since then we have had 2 inches or rain, and the Lycoris are shooting up everywhere. The only pictures I have posted anywhere so far are in the SRGC Forum at: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6912.msg210893#msg210893 Jim Shields At 10:52 PM 8/10/2011 -0500, Jim Waddick wrote: >......> A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging > >from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. > >Dear Friends, > Amazing what an inch of rain can pull from the ground. > Now 2 days after seeing nothing I have stalks emerging from >L. squamigera, L. sprengeri. L. chinensis. L. longituba and some of >their hybrids. These range from just poking out of the ground and up >many in the 4 to 8 inch range and one clump of L. squamigera probably >to bloom tomorrow and join the earliest L. longituba. > > Still no sign of L. sanguinea More rain equals more >Lycoris. Best Jim >-- ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From DalesMicro@aol.com Thu Aug 11 14:37:00 2011 Message-Id: <182b1.386a0e1f.3b757b46@aol.com> From: DalesMicro@aol.com Subject: Two Hymenocallis? from Mexico (Dale Denham) Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 14:36:55 -0400 (EDT) Hi Dennis and thanks for the additional information. In view of the dryer habitat H. littoralis does indeed seem more likely. One of my goals is to take photos that can be used on the internet for plant identification. Are there any distinguishing characteristics I can try to look for and photograph? Dale From sgage4@eq.edu.au Thu Aug 11 15:59:34 2011 Message-Id: <7580d4d31f84d.4e44c140@eq.edu.au> From: Shelley GAGE Subject: Hello Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 05:59:28 +1000 Dear Steven, Welcome. I live between Gympie and the coast and have visited Ron's amazing collection on the way to Hervey Bay. It's good to have another local on board. Shelley Gage On 11/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > Hi Alan > > I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here high dry > peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. Lots of > due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some Madagascan > Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. > > I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot of new > email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, i work > from friday until Monday 3am till late  so its early to bed for me, i only > get a few hours sleep on weekends > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary wrote: > > > Welcome aboard Steven. > > > > You have similar interests to me. > > > > Whereabouts in Australia do you live? > > > > Alan O'Leary > > Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "steven hart" > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM > > Subject: [pbs] Hello > > > > > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tom@evolution-plants.com Thu Aug 11 17:03:41 2011 Message-Id: From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Annual Veratrum request Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 21:27:43 +0100 Every year at about this time I start to fret about the uncollected Veratrum seeds maturing rapidly around the world. With sincere apologies to those whom I have bored with this request in the past, can I repeat my plea that anyone who has access to wild populations of Veratrum or its sister genus Melanthium get in touch? I'm working hard on assembling a comprehensive collection of Veratrum species but am missing authentic material of the common North American species V. californicum and V. viride. I'd love to obtain V. insolitum and V. fimbriatum from California but I realise these two species are exceedingly rare. Still, if you don't ask... I have lots of bulbs - including many Crocosmia cvs, to pick up on Jim W's recent thread - and seeds to swap and would also happily reimburse anyone prepared to make a special seed collecting trip for any of these species. Tom From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 11 18:25:46 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 15:25:38 -0700 Hi Shelley Thanks, i wish i had joined up long ago, i have looked at the PBS website meny times as a reference, especially when i was trying to find out about a native crinum from here, it took me several months & it is the SE Queensland Crinum Flaccidum, they are beautiful, Brisbane lilies are native on my property too. What do u like to collect ? I gotta get to work, for a few days straight now :-) Bye for now Shelly Happy Gardening.......... Steven On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Shelley GAGE wrote: > Dear Steven, > Welcome. I live between Gympie and the coast and have visited Ron's amazing > collection on the way to Hervey Bay. It's good to have another local on > board. > Shelley Gage > > On 11/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > > > Hi Alan > > > > I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here high > dry > > peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. Lots > of > > due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some > Madagascan > > Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. > > > > I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot of > new > > email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, i > work > > from friday until Monday 3am till late so its early to bed for me, i > only > > get a few hours sleep on weekends > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary > wrote: > > > > > Welcome aboard Steven. > > > > > > You have similar interests to me. > > > > > > Whereabouts in Australia do you live? > > > > > > Alan O'Leary > > > Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "steven hart" > > > To: > > > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM > > > Subject: [pbs] Hello > > > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > > > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Thu Aug 11 18:57:17 2011 Message-Id: <410-220118411225713765@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Annual Veratrum request Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:57:13 -0400 I'm working hard on assembling a comprehensive collection of Veratrum species but am missing authentic material of the common North American species V. californicum and V. viride. I'd love to obtain V. insolitum and V. fimbriatum from California but I realise these two species are exceedingly rare. Still, if you don't ask... > Unfortunately Ron Ratko is no longer collecting. He used to offered most of these. Check the NARGS seed-ex later this year. You will need to be a member to participate. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a Crinum Fred Howard and Summer Enchantment and unknown pass-a-long Crinum in bloom. Smoke from the Great Dismal Swamp fire blankets the area From ds429@comcast.net Fri Aug 12 07:41:53 2011 Message-Id: <000001cc58e4$dbc0b890$934229b0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 282 Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:42:04 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 282" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Roy Herold: SEEDS From my venerable 'Big 3' Cyclamen rohlfsianum, monster specimens each with tubers over 6 pounds and leaves 6-8" diameter. Completely different leaf pattern/shape and flower color/size on each. Someday I'll take photos. 1. Cyclamen rohlfsianum 93-6 ex hort 2. Cyclamen rohlfsianum 93-8 ex hort 3. Cyclamen rohlfsianum 93-14 ex Cyrenaica (look it up From Mary Sue Ittner: SEED: 4. Babiana sp. -seed from descendents of plants grown from seed more than 20 years ago; these are naturalized in my Northern California garden, probably hybrids 5. Camassia quamash - collected in the wild where they grow in wet spots 6. Cyclamen hederifolium 7. Delphinium nudicaule - can't guarantee these since they could be hybrids, but they were saved from a dark red form 8. Gladiolus fourcadei - winter grower, original plants grown from Harry Hay seed 9. Moraea vegeta - easy plant to grow in the ground in Northern California, flowers are brown, but a display of these we find very interesting 10. Pelargonium incrassatum - winter growing, Namaqualand plant 11. Phaedranassa cinerea 12. Romulea tetragona - check the wiki to see how these seeds differ from the ones below 13. Romulea tetragona (flavandra form) 14. Toxicoscordion (Zigadenus) fremontii - this plant is native in Northern California where I live From Roy Herold: "BULBS" 15. Oxalis obtusa MV4719D 16. Oxalis obtusa peach ex BX179 ex MSI 17. Oxalis obtusa yellow MV5516 18. Oxalis melanosticta 'Ken Aslet', heavy bloomer here 19. Oxalis melanosticta Sutherland, ex Hannon as sp. Like Ken Aslet but bigger and fuzzier. Blooms well. 20. Oxalis 'namaquensis' ex Mattus 21. Oxalis sp Uli63, yellow spring flwr, ex BX183 ex Uli. Few. 22. Oxalis fabaefolia ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff ex Uli 23. Oxalis fabaefolia ex Hannon 24. Oxalis sp Uli69 25. Oxalis compressa double ex BX218 ex Vanderhoff 26. Oxalis obtusa MV6235 27. Oxalis obtusa MSI17B pale orange (MSI17 numbers are ex Mary Sue's BX donations of her stray oxalis. All are nice) 28. Oxalis obtusa MSI17C 29. Oxalis obtusa MSI17D 30. Oxalis obtusa MSI17E 31. Oxalis obtusa MV5051 32. Oxalis obtusa 'Old Fashioned Pink' (my name, I've grown this for over 20 years and it's still better than most of the fancy new obtusas. Tons of flowers, blooms for a couple of months in late winter.) 33. Lachenalia bulbifera, ex Doutt/Bioquest 1993. For details on MV oxalis numbers, see Thank you Roy and Mary Sue !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From msittner@mcn.org Fri Aug 12 10:44:21 2011 Message-Id: <20110812144420.7D8C7E8B4F@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Virus photos Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 07:43:57 -0700 Janos Agoston has added some wonderful virus photos to our wiki virus page: This is kind of a long page, but look for the photos of genera in the middle. He has added Crocus, Lily, and a lot of Tulipa photos. Thanks Janos. Mary Sue From pamela@polson.com Fri Aug 12 11:33:17 2011 Message-Id: <000801cc5903$dffc4e50$9ff4eaf0$@com> From: "Pamela Harlow" Subject: Virus photos Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 08:24:05 -0700 Thanks for the new photos; this is a good service. Chlorine bleach is always recommended on this site as the disinfection agent. Is there any research comparing chlorine bleach to GreenShield, a horticultural disinfectant on the market? GreenShield has several advantages. A bath of it retains its usefulness for at least a week, while chlorine bleach loses half of its potency within 5 hours, or so I was taught. GreenShield is much gentler on tools and textiles and may not produce the dangerous vapors that bleach does. Further, the advice to discard clay (and, presumably, concrete) pots doesn't make sense to me. Is this supported by research? Clay is very porous to fluids. I am reminded of the study on kitchen cutting boards conducted at the University of Wisconsin a few years back. Contrary to expectation, wood harbored many fewer bacteria than plastic. Of course, viruses are not bacteria, and wood is not clay. My point is just that conventional wisdom may mislead. Finally, I've often wondered if infected aphids transmit viruses to their clonal offspring. Does anyone know? Thanks, Pamela Harlow -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 7:44 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Virus photos Janos Agoston has added some wonderful virus photos to our wiki virus page: This is kind of a long page, but look for the photos of genera in the middle. He has added Crocus, Lily, and a lot of Tulipa photos. Thanks Janos. Mary Sue From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 11:54:56 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Virus photos Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 17:54:56 +0200 Pam, While I was in OH I used GreenShield, it is also a very good disinfectant. As far as I know it produces hidrogen-peroxide which is effective against all known pathogens, and weeds. But it also kills plants, so I would put the knives for a minute or so in it and then wash it under clear water. I have a lot of virus pictures, but I have lost most of them with 80 000+ other pictures on my hard drive. Anyway this was my first addition to the wiki, it took me a while :) Janos Z5a, Hungary From efgam@live.com Fri Aug 12 12:14:47 2011 Message-Id: From: Frank M Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16 Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 02:39:44 +1030 Hi there everyoneI joined the PBS a while back and I must say to all and sundry that I have learnt so much from reading the blogs on the different topics that pop up on a daily basis.You are an astute group of persons with a passion for plants that blows me away,I already have quite an extensive collection of Amaryllis from Worsleya to Zepheranthes and every thing in between but as you all know it's not easy to stop collecting and growing once the dreaded bulb bug has bitten. Reading what you all have written has made me even hungrier to add to my collection. CheersFrankSydney Australia > From: pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 12:01:14 -0400 > > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Hello (steven hart) > 2. Re: Lycoris Season yet? (James Waddick) > 3. Re: Lycoris Season yet? (J.E. Shields) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 03:32:50 -0700 > From: steven hart > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hello > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Hi Ina > > I don't have a big collection but have a passion for collecting Crinums, I > love them & i'm surrounded by thousands of hectares of forestry & rain > forest so there is loads of wild critters that love to dig in the gardens, > but the Crinums can do it all, drought, animals, bugs, cold.........They > have even survived the onslaught of my sweet but extremely naughty little > cashmere goats, munching everything down to ground level....... > > I have some hippeastrums & heaps of regular stuff, tuberoses & liliums, > different crocus species & saffron does well here surprisingly. Lots of > different crinums, but i've barely scratched the surface My mountain top is > dry & the only soil is a thin layer i have created over 10 years or so. The > bulbs & lilies are survivors, where little else can live........ > > Harsh words i know & i'm a green finger haha.......... > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:41 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > > > Hello Steven > > > > Welcome to the PBS. > > > > What sort of Ameryllids are you growing? > > > > Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand > > > > > > >> Hi Everyone ! > > >> > > >> I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago& > > >> collect Crinums, Amerillys& various other goodies. > > >> _______________________________________________ > > >> pbs mailing list > > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2011 22:52:13 -0500 > From: James Waddick > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris Season yet? > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > > > > I fully expect to see flowering stems > >>coming up today or tomorrow. I'll report back then. > > > >Dear Friends, > > I wrote too soon. > > > > A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging > >from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. > > Dear Friends, > Amazing what an inch of rain can pull from the ground. > Now 2 days after seeing nothing I have stalks emerging from > L. squamigera, L. sprengeri. L. chinensis. L. longituba and some of > their hybrids. These range from just poking out of the ground and up > many in the 4 to 8 inch range and one clump of L. squamigera probably > to bloom tomorrow and join the earliest L. longituba. > > Still no sign of L. sanguinea More rain equals more > Lycoris. Best Jim > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 10:19:47 -0400 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris Season yet? > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20110811101439.05865390@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed > > My Lycoris sanguinea started blooming a few days ago, then yesterday many > of my squamigera burst into bloom! > > We had less heat here than Jim W. did in Kansas City, but no rain until > about 10-14 days ago. Since then we have had 2 inches or rain, and the > Lycoris are shooting up everywhere. > > The only pictures I have posted anywhere so far are in the SRGC Forum at: > http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6912.msg210893#msg210893 > > Jim Shields > > > At 10:52 PM 8/10/2011 -0500, Jim Waddick wrote: > >......> A quick survey came up with hundreds of bloom stalks emerging > > >from 1/2 inch to 2 inches. Mostly all squamigera, but a couple others. > > > >Dear Friends, > > Amazing what an inch of rain can pull from the ground. > > Now 2 days after seeing nothing I have stalks emerging from > >L. squamigera, L. sprengeri. L. chinensis. L. longituba and some of > >their hybrids. These range from just poking out of the ground and up > >many in the 4 to 8 inch range and one clump of L. squamigera probably > >to bloom tomorrow and join the earliest L. longituba. > > > > Still no sign of L. sanguinea More rain equals more > >Lycoris. Best Jim > >-- > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40? 02.8' N, Long. 086? 06.6' W > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 16 > ************************************ From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 14:59:01 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Virus photos Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 11:59:00 -0700 Pamela, There some great advantages to using regular beach vs. any specialized commercial products. Bleach is such a common household that it is easily obtainable for many people. If you need do do a quick sterilization, you can reach into the cupboard and pull out a bottle of bleach. The other thing is that it is very cheap and usually a dilution of 1:9 bleach:water works very well. There are of course the few things that you mentioned like the noxious vapors and the limited half-life. Bleach is light sensitive so if you want to keep it from going bad, use a bucket that is not clear and keep it from direct sunlight (preferably in the dark). I find that this way, things will continue to be bleached clean even after a week. As to your question about not reusing clay pots only applies when you try to bleach them. The fact that it is porous is the issue. The porosity allows the bleach to enter the clay and unless you have lots of time to soak and resoak your pots for over a week, the bleach remains and any plants you pot into that clay pot will suffer from the bleach that slowly leaches out. As afar as I know, aphids only serve as mechanical vectors. The virus does not go systemic in the virus so offsprings should be clean, but as soon as the offsprings feed on an infected plant, they too have become vectors. Perhaps Janos can comment more on this. Nhu On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 8:24 AM, Pamela Harlow wrote: > Thanks for the new photos; this is a good service. > > Further, the advice to discard clay (and, presumably, concrete) pots > doesn't > make sense to me. Is this supported by research? Clay is very porous to > fluids. > > Finally, I've often wondered if infected aphids transmit viruses to their > clonal offspring. Does anyone know? > From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 15:13:25 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Hello Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 12:13:23 -0700 Welcome to the PBS list, Steven! Here you will find lots of enthusiastic plant people from all over the world who share the same passion in plants. People here are very friendly and helpful so if you have any questions just ask. Happy posting! Nhu a PBS Wiki administrator On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 11:42 PM, steven hart < hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi Everyone ! > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > From awilson@avonia.com Fri Aug 12 17:10:01 2011 Message-Id: <48455F81FA404CF889849A9D0B9037DA@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 14:10:56 -0700 One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a beautiful, blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It sounded pretty good but no Latin name for the species was provided. A little work later, I narrowed it down to possibly Ixiolirion tataricum. The epithet seems to indicate it comes form central Asia. For this area, with a nearly frostless climate, that might not be a good choice. I looked it up in the Wiki and became more or less convinced that I had the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in which climate zones the bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody among us grows the attractive bulb. Would it grow here? Andrew San Diego From petersirises@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 18:28:53 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 23:28:51 +0100 It grows well in a fairly sunny position in the uk and is easy in pots. It probably needs temperature fluctuations to end its summer dormancy. Can you grow Tulip species? - it likes similar conditions. Peter (UK) On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM, AW wrote: > One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a beautiful, > blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It sounded pretty good but > no Latin name for the species was provided. A little work later, I narrowed > it down to possibly Ixiolirion tataricum. The epithet seems to indicate it > comes form central Asia. For this area, with a nearly frostless climate, > that might not be a good choice. I looked it up in the Wiki and became more > or less convinced that I had the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in > which climate zones the bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody among us > grows the attractive bulb. Would it grow here? > > Andrew > San Diego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From awilson@avonia.com Fri Aug 12 19:01:34 2011 Message-Id: <721C24916C254468AA144E2BF679A8E9@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:02:29 -0700 Thanks, Peter. That was useful information. It does sound, I'm afraid, as though they are not going to do well for me. Tulips are a bust here after a year or two. I'm sure people out there will ask "Have you tried ..? Well, I've tried a quite a few. They're OK for a year or two and then they're ususally gone. It's a pity. Cyclamen are far more adaptable to this climate as you might expect. You can't have everything! Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart It grows well in a fairly sunny position in the uk and is easy in pots. It probably needs temperature fluctuations to end its summer dormancy. Can you grow Tulip species? - it likes similar conditions. Peter (UK) On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM, AW wrote: > One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a > beautiful, blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It sounded > pretty good but no Latin name for the species was provided. A little > work later, I narrowed it down to possibly Ixiolirion tataricum. The > epithet seems to indicate it comes form central Asia. For this area, > with a nearly frostless climate, that might not be a good choice. I > looked it up in the Wiki and became more or less convinced that I had > the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in which climate zones the > bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody among us grows the attractive bulb. Would it grow here? > > Andrew > San Diego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 19:11:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Blue bulb Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 00:11:41 +0100 I expect your best bet would be to keep such bulbs as cool as possiable in growth, and dry when dormant. They are designed to grow in the mild spells between summer and winter, ie automne/ spring, and if you try to make them grow when they are hot they rot. On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 12:02 AM, AW wrote: > Thanks, Peter. That was useful information. It does sound, I'm afraid, as > though they are not going to do well for me. Tulips are a bust here after a > year or two. I'm sure people out there will ask "Have you tried ..? Well, > I've tried a quite a few. They're OK for a year or two and then they're > ususally gone. It's a pity. Cyclamen are far more adaptable to this climate > as you might expect. You can't have everything! > > Andrew > San Diego > > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Peter Taggart > > It grows well in a fairly sunny position in the uk and is easy in pots. It > probably needs temperature fluctuations to end its summer dormancy. Can you > grow Tulip species? - it likes similar conditions. > Peter (UK) > > On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM, AW wrote: > > > One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a > > beautiful, blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It sounded > > pretty good but no Latin name for the species was provided. A little > > work later, I narrowed it down to possibly Ixiolirion tataricum. The > > epithet seems to indicate it comes form central Asia. For this area, > > with a nearly frostless climate, that might not be a good choice. I > > looked it up in the Wiki and became more or less convinced that I had > > the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in which climate zones the > > bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody among us grows the attractive > bulb. Would it grow here? > > > > Andrew > > San Diego > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From awilson@avonia.com Fri Aug 12 19:53:07 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 16:54:34 -0700 I thought it had to do with insufficient cold hours to enforce a dormancy time in winter. Depending on wintertime conditions that could amount to the conditions you indicate. If it is a dry winter, as it usually is until early January, the bulbs might be OK if temperatures remained cool enough that no growth is stimulated ( that may be a stretc).They would then respond to January/February rains when it is relatively cool. If, however, rains came two months earlier when dayime temperatures are still quite high, that could spring disaster (no pun inteded). If your theory is correct the bulbs could be grown successfully under cover, keeping them dry until, say February. With bulbs like these Ixiolirions that treatment could be tried although I had not envisioned growing them along those lines. I'll consider it. Thanks Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart I expect your best bet would be to keep such bulbs as cool as possiable in growth, and dry when dormant. They are designed to grow in the mild spells between summer and winter, ie automne/ spring, and if you try to make them grow when they are hot they rot. On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 12:02 AM, AW wrote: > Thanks, Peter. That was useful information. It does sound, I'm afraid, > as though they are not going to do well for me. Tulips are a bust here > after a year or two. I'm sure people out there will ask "Have you > tried ..? Well, I've tried a quite a few. They're OK for a year or two > and then they're ususally gone. It's a pity. Cyclamen are far more > adaptable to this climate as you might expect. You can't have everything! > > Andrew > San Diego > > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Peter Taggart > > It grows well in a fairly sunny position in the uk and is easy in > pots. It probably needs temperature fluctuations to end its summer > dormancy. Can you grow Tulip species? - it likes similar conditions. > Peter (UK) > > On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM, AW wrote: > > > One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a > > beautiful, blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It > > sounded pretty good but no Latin name for the species was provided. > > A little work later, I narrowed it down to possibly Ixiolirion > > tataricum. The epithet seems to indicate it comes form central Asia. > > For this area, with a nearly frostless climate, that might not be a > > good choice. I looked it up in the Wiki and became more or less > > convinced that I had the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in > > which climate zones the bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody > > among us grows the attractive > bulb. Would it grow here? > > > > Andrew > > San Diego > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Fri Aug 12 20:33:02 2011 Message-Id: <4E45C641.6010006@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Blue bulb and similar Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 12:33:05 +1200 This year I have had Hyacinths flowering in the garden from shop bought flowers which were planted in the garden when they finished over the last few years. Like tulips, we are not supposed to be able to grown Hyacinths, as it is too wet at the wrong time and not cold enough. So it is interesting to see that even the offset bulbs are flowering of these. Nice. Ina Auckland New Zealand where it feels spring like today, yet a warning of a real snow storm coming, which won't reach Auckland, but will lower the temperature considerably On 13/08/2011 11:54 a.m., AW wrote: > I thought it had to do with insufficient cold hours to enforce a dormancy > time in winter. Depending on wintertime conditions that could amount to the > conditions you indicate. If it is a dry winter, as it usually is until early > January, the bulbs might be OK if temperatures remained cool enough that no > growth is stimulated ( that may be a stretc).They would then respond to > January/February rains when it is relatively cool. If, however, rains came > two months earlier when dayime temperatures are still quite high, that could > spring disaster (no pun inteded). > > If your theory is correct the bulbs could be grown successfully under cover, > keeping them dry until, say February. With bulbs like these Ixiolirions that > treatment could be tried although I had not envisioned growing them along > those lines. I'll consider it. Thanks > > Andrew > San Diego > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Peter Taggart > > I expect your best bet would be to keep such bulbs as cool as possiable in > growth, and dry when dormant. They are designed to grow in the mild spells > between summer and winter, ie automne/ spring, and if you try to make them > grow when they are hot they rot. > > On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 12:02 AM, AW wrote: > >> Thanks, Peter. That was useful information. It does sound, I'm afraid, >> as though they are not going to do well for me. Tulips are a bust here >> after a year or two. I'm sure people out there will ask "Have you >> tried ..? Well, I've tried a quite a few. They're OK for a year or two >> and then they're ususally gone. It's a pity. Cyclamen are far more >> adaptable to this climate as you might expect. You can't have everything! >> >> Andrew >> San Diego >> >> >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >> On Behalf Of Peter Taggart >> >> It grows well in a fairly sunny position in the uk and is easy in >> pots. It probably needs temperature fluctuations to end its summer >> dormancy. Can you grow Tulip species? - it likes similar conditions. >> Peter (UK) >> >> On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 10:10 PM, AW wrote: >> >>> One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a >>> beautiful, blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It >>> sounded pretty good but no Latin name for the species was provided. >>> A little work later, I narrowed it down to possibly Ixiolirion >>> tataricum. The epithet seems to indicate it comes form central Asia. >>> For this area, with a nearly frostless climate, that might not be a >>> good choice. I looked it up in the Wiki and became more or less >>> convinced that I had the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in >>> which climate zones the bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody >>> among us grows the attractive >> bulb. Would it grow here? >>> Andrew >>> San Diego >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From msittner@mcn.org Sat Aug 13 00:27:21 2011 Message-Id: <20110813042721.1B0E0E8B9F@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 21:26:51 -0700 Hi Andrew, This list has discussed Ixiolirion a couple of times. Many of us in Mediterranean climates did not have success, but some of those in Canada did. You can check the archives from June 2006 and June 2008 for more information. Mary Sue From awilson@avonia.com Sat Aug 13 00:58:29 2011 Message-Id: <69E53E82F1ED4D2F9FD59DC0E1B88EA4@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Blue bulb Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 22:00:07 -0700 Hi, Mary Sue! Thanks for the reply. Yes, I did check the Wiki before I inserted my question. Ixiolirion, in fact the species I was seeking, is included there. However, it included no information about cultivation details, climates suitable etc. Following your advice I have just checked the archives, including year 2008. One of the multiple messages there (it was from Jim Waddick) mentioned a report back in 1934 in which success was claimed by leaving the bulbs the ground. This was done in the state of Washington. The result might indeed mean it is not a bulb destined for success for people in warmer areas. And, from Bellingham, Wash. It would also mean that the bulb is quite happy sitting out in wet winters. (Bellingham is not far from Puget Sound, and north of Seattle). It would probably be worth noting this climatic suitability in the Wiki, don't you think? Andrew -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Friday, August 12, 2011 9:27 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Blue bulb Hi Andrew, This list has discussed Ixiolirion a couple of times. Many of us in Mediterranean climates did not have success, but some of those in Canada did. You can check the archives from June 2006 and June 2008 for more information. Mary Sue From petersirises@gmail.com Sat Aug 13 03:49:52 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Blue bulb and similar Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 08:49:50 +0100 Temperate continental climate bulbs basically root following rain and/ or fluctuating temperatures before winter, they may then slow down, while frozen, untill thawing/ snowmelt/ spring time. They then go dormant for a (hot) dry period in summer which stimulates the setting of flowerbuds within the bulb. The cycle is started again by fluctuating / cooler night temperatures and water before winter. If they dont get enough cold in winter, the embryonic flowerbuds will not have time to develop before spring, and I would expect lots of leaf instead and aborted flowers. Alpine houses are often kept frost free in the uk, and this is fine for these bulbs. The winter cold dormancy after rooting and before top growth is enforced by giving only a very little water untill top growth is required. I expect that the biggest problems you might encounter in a hotter climate is that when the bulbs get warm they must be allowed to go dormant (and dry) or they will rot. This may be before they have finished a full seasons growth resulting in poor bulbs for the following year. I think keeping them cool to achieve a long spring growth period and breaking dormancy early by refridgerating the bulbs before potting might give a longer growing period. On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 1:33 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > This year I have had Hyacinths flowering in the garden from shop bought > flowers which were planted in the garden when they finished over the > last few years. Like tulips, we are not supposed to be able to grown > Hyacinths, as it is too wet at the wrong time and not cold enough. > > > Ina Auckland New Zealand where it feels spring like today, yet a > warning of a real snow storm coming, which won't reach Auckland, but > will lower the temperature considerably > > On 13/08/2011 11:54 a.m., AW wrote: > > I thought it had to do with insufficient cold hours to enforce a dormancy > > time in winter. Depending on wintertime conditions that could amount to > the > > conditions you indicate. If it is a dry winter, as it usually is until > early > > January, the bulbs might be OK if temperatures remained cool enough that > no > > growth is stimulated ( that may be a stretc).They would then respond to > > January/February rains when it is relatively cool. If, however, rains > came > > two months earlier when dayime temperatures are still quite high, that > could > > spring disaster (no pun inteded). > > > > If your theory is correct the bulbs could be grown successfully under > cover, > > keeping them dry until, say February. With bulbs like these Ixiolirions > that > > treatment could be tried although I had not envisioned growing them along > > those lines. > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Aug 13 08:13:55 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Ixiolirion Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 07:13:47 -0500 Dear Andrew and all, Sorry for my slow response to this topic. Yes I do grow Ixiolirion tataricum, but not as well as I theoretically should. I understand that this is a bulb of the Central Asian Steppe area, not drastically unlike the Central US prairie where I live. Years ago I bought dozens of bulbs cheaply form a Dutch source expecting them to naturalize or at least be an easy subject. Most of them bloomed a beautiful medium to deep blue the first spring and then disappeared. I won't speculate why, but they did. Now perhaps 10 years later I do have a small clump on a steep west facing hill side that bakes seriously in the summer. I have a few Spuria Irises in the same area. They bloom reliably in the main spring season, but being rather short and hidden among taller plants I can easily miss the display. In short they are nice, but not a knock out by any means. I will remind you my continental climate is fairly extreme compared to Andrew's. Last winter we got down to -12 F had long periods with night time lows below 0 F and even longer below freezing (32 F). This summer we have had long periods over 100 F with night temps down to 80+ F. And an extended drought just recently and finally broken (!!) by an inch of rain. LAst winter we did have some snow cover, but this is not typical. I'd be happy if I could maintain a nice clump in one clear spot, but I am lucky they persist at all. On the other hand they are not expensive and you might just buy a couple and try them and improvise their growing conditions. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From awilson@avonia.com Sat Aug 13 10:04:00 2011 Message-Id: <7C4CFAF7B9C1400E9E5B7F4C23F4D712@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Ixiolirion Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 07:04:19 -0700 Thanks, Jim. Between your comments, those of the reference of the 1934 success to how they were grown in coastal Washington and the most recent input from Peter Taggart in the UK it's pretty clear they are not bulbs that I would want to consider for this warmer area. Now that we have this input, it would be useful for others for us to show it in the Ixolirion section of the Wiki. Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Dear Andrew and all, Sorry for my slow response to this topic. Yes I do grow Ixiolirion tataricum, but not as well as I theoretically should. I understand that this is a bulb of the Central Asian Steppe area, not drastically unlike the Central US prairie where I live. Years ago I bought dozens of bulbs cheaply form a Dutch source expecting them to naturalize or at least be an easy subject. Most of them bloomed a beautiful medium to deep blue the first spring and then disappeared. I won't speculate why, but they did. Now perhaps 10 years later I do have a small clump on a steep west facing hill side that bakes seriously in the summer. I have a few Spuria Irises in the same area. They bloom reliably in the main spring season, but being rather short and hidden among taller plants I can easily miss the display. In short they are nice, but not a knock out by any means. I will remind you my continental climate is fairly extreme compared to Andrew's. Last winter we got down to -12 F had long periods with night time lows below 0 F and even longer below freezing (32 F). This summer we have had long periods over 100 F with night temps down to 80+ F. And an extended drought just recently and finally broken (!!) by an inch of rain. LAst winter we did have some snow cover, but this is not typical. I'd be happy if I could maintain a nice clump in one clear spot, but I am lucky they persist at all. On the other hand they are not expensive and you might just buy a couple and try them and improvise their growing conditions. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 02:14:17 2011 Message-Id: <006201cc5a49$6358faf0$2a0af0d0$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Blue bulb (and posting to the wiki) Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 23:14:12 -0700 Andrew wrote: >> it would be useful for others for us to show it in the Ixolirion section of the Wiki. Agreed. This is probably a good time to remind listmembers that anyone can post information to the Wiki. All you need to do is contact Mary Sue to get the password (that prevents spammers from breaking in and messing up the content, which I'm told happened in the past). It's easy, we can give you free advice if you get stuck, and just imagine the feeling of accomplishment you'll have when you're done and you become the ultimate online resource on a bulb species. Mike San Jose, CA From prvs=120727233c=contact@bulbargence.com Sun Aug 14 05:42:19 2011 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: summer dormancy (was Blue bulb and similar) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 11:42:11 +0200 Hello Peter, A very concise and clear explanation. This also explains why in some cases typically mediterranean bulbs (such as Crocus) are grown in a cooler climat (per example UK or the Neherlands) produce a much better size because of the long springtime growing period. When here the leaves are drying off in April, in Holland the growth goes on until early June. Of course in the Dutch climat the growers have to make some artificial arrangements to obtain warm and dry summer conditions. Kind regards Lauw de Jager South of France www.bulbargence.com -----Original Message----- Temperate continental climate bulbs basically root following rain and/ or fluctuating temperatures before winter, they may then slow down, while frozen, untill thawing/ snowmelt/ spring time. They then go dormant for a (hot) dry period in summer which stimulates the setting of flowerbuds within the bulb. The cycle is started again by fluctuating / cooler night temperatures and water before winter. If they dont get enough cold in winter, the embryonic flowerbuds will not have time to develop before spring, and I would expect lots of leaf instead and aborted flowers. Alpine houses are often kept frost free in the uk, and this is fine for these bulbs. The winter cold dormancy after rooting and before top growth is enforced by giving only a very little water untill top growth is required. I expect that the biggest problems you might encounter in a hotter climate is that when the bulbs get warm they must be allowed to go dormant (and dry) or they will rot. This may be before they have finished a full seasons growth resulting in poor bulbs for the following year. I think keeping them cool to achieve a long spring growth period From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 07:36:31 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: summer dormancy (was Blue bulb and similar) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 12:36:28 +0100 Thank you Lauw, you are very kind. There are many details that might be added to my original statement.I know that you and many others will already know a lot more than I do about this, but there will be a lot who don't, so please correct any errors I write. I gave my original reply because recentlyseveral people, in climates too hot or too wet for these plants, have mentioned chilling these plants for the summer. This sounds to me as if there is a complete misunderstanding of the growth pattern. The plants from these climates need to be dry NOT cold in summer. One such detail is that Crocus are corms and not bulbs, The process and timetable of flower bud formation is different in corms to that which I described in bulbs. However for Mediterranean and Continental climate bulbs, corms and almost all geophites the overall growth pattern is as I described. Due to the difference in flower development between corms and bulbs I would suggest corms might be easier to maintain and flower in hotter/ subtropical climates, rather than true bulbs? For true bulbs, chilling them will extend the winter growth period, (allowing more time for flower bud development in the bulb,) before top growth appears. BUT first the plants need a warm, dry summer! How warm and how dry depends on the species. The reason I am suggesting chilling the plants, is to allow a climate with perhaps only three months of cooler weather, an early start into growth, at the beginning of the very short growing period. In the case of true bulbs it might also help prevent the flowers aborting. Heavy feeding might also help build bigger bulbs/ geophytes, if trying to grow them in such a short winter growing season. I have never gardened in the subtropics but I sympathise with those who wish to grow plants suited to climates that they don't live in. for all those in summer wet or subtropical climates who don't know: MEDITERRANEAN AND CONTINENTAL GEOPHYTES MUST BE COOL AND WET IN WINTER, WARM AND DRY IN SUMMER. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 10:42 AM, contact wrote: > Hello Peter, > A very concise and clear explanation. This also explains why in some cases > typically mediterranean bulbs (such as Crocus) are grown in a cooler > climat > (per example UK or the Neherlands) produce a much better size because of > the long springtime growing period. When here the leaves are drying off > in April, in Holland the growth goes on until early June. Of course in the > Dutch climat the growers have to make some artificial arrangements to > obtain warm and dry summer conditions. > > Kind regards > Lauw de Jager > South of France > > www.bulbargence.com > > > -----Original Message----- > Temperate continental climate bulbs basically root following rain and/ or > fluctuating temperatures before winter, they may then slow down, while > frozen, untill thawing/ snowmelt/ spring time. They then go dormant for a > (hot) dry period in summer which stimulates the setting of flowerbuds > within > the bulb. The cycle is started again by fluctuating / cooler night > temperatures and water before winter. If they dont get enough cold in > winter, the embryonic flowerbuds will not have time to develop before > spring, and I would expect lots of leaf instead and aborted flowers. Alpine > houses are often kept frost free in the uk, and this is fine for these > bulbs. The winter cold dormancy after rooting and before top growth is > enforced by giving only a very little water untill top growth is required. > I > expect that the biggest problems you might encounter in a hotter climate is > that when the bulbs get warm they must be allowed to go dormant (and dry) > or > they will rot. This may be before they have finished a full seasons growth > resulting in poor bulbs for the following year. I think keeping them cool > to > achieve a long spring growth period > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From info@auchgourishbotanicgarden.org Fri, 14 Oct 2011 13:40:35 -0700 Message-Id: From: Subject: Ixiolirion Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 16:44:26 +0100 For reasons I wont go into, but forgetfullness comes into it, we recently lifted bulbs of this taxon which seems to have had a great time multiplying underground over the past 10 years. Falling off of flowering was clearly due to bulb congestion underground, these bulbs settled down to a level of 10 - 15 cms below the surface. With us there has been absolutely no negative issues due to low winter temperatures indeed a spell without snow but down to - 22 C caused no probems. Soil is a glaciated sandy grit with a pH of 4.5. Given its natural distribution that seems to be par for the species. I would be happy to donate gratis some bulbs and just possibly there might be a few seeds left but I would have to check, bulbs I know we have to spare. Problem might be a Phyto certificate though, e.g. what needs to be covered in such a doc for the USA as an example? We can get our government inspectors to produce them but they are located some distance off so it would be best for some spe cific details of points to be covered however before I look into it. Let me know if of any interest. I suspect this taxon would be ill suited to wet clays over winter but they probably wont be too happy under semi desert or extreme hot direct sunlight either. Iain -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 190366 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From awilson@avonia.com Sun Aug 14 14:48:57 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 11:50:14 -0700 In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English writes about various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. These beautiful plants are not ones with which I have much experience. Starting las year I acquired several, planted them out in a pond where they grew slowly but apparently quite healthily all summer and winter. This year, in April and May the display was superb. The variety was, I believe, Black Gamecock. Each day there were tens of blooms open on these plants and this went on for well over four weeks. I was most impressed. After the blooming ended the plants produced no new growth and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, while not mushy at their roots, show no signs of active growth. Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the roots about two inches below water level. I did try lifting them above the water level after yellowing took place. It made no difference. After consulting with Dennis Kramb and indirectly with other people knowledgeable about these plants it appears that the climate, the water depth andwater temperature were all in the right ranges. They received full sun all day after March and full sun part of te day earlier in the year. I have tried applying a fertilizer to attempt stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed themselves to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and acquired the yellow pallor thereafter. If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing it. Andrew San Doego From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Sun Aug 14 15:10:28 2011 Message-Id: <4F247213-1C33-4480-BD03-BF7E1CBD7049@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:10:23 -0500 Here in Louisiana they are pretty much shot in the summer. You might get some to stay evergreen, but you shouldn't see much active growth if at all in the heat of summer. They often look very ratty if they don't go dormant. Tim Chapman On Aug 14, 2011, at 1:50 PM, "AW" wrote: > In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English writes about > various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. These beautiful plants > are not ones with which I have much experience. Starting las year I acquired > several, planted them out in a pond where they grew slowly but apparently > quite healthily all summer and winter. This year, in April and May the > display was superb. The variety was, I believe, Black Gamecock. Each day > there were tens of blooms open on these plants and this went on for well > over four weeks. I was most impressed. After the blooming ended the plants > produced no new growth and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, > while not mushy at their roots, show no signs of active growth. > > Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? > > The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the roots about > two inches below water level. I did try lifting them above the water level > after yellowing took place. It made no difference. After consulting with > Dennis Kramb and indirectly with other people knowledgeable about these > plants it appears that the climate, the water depth andwater temperature > were all in the right ranges. They received full sun all day after March and > full sun part of te day earlier in the year. I have tried applying a > fertilizer to attempt stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. > > The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed themselves > to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and acquired the > yellow pallor thereafter. > > If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing it. > > Andrew > San Doego > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From awilson@avonia.com Sun Aug 14 16:19:20 2011 Message-Id: <0575D2ED85B04D70A1AE15B7802D1DAD@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 13:20:39 -0700 Ahah! That is not something I have ever seen in any of the books I've read about them. Sounds like the books only deal with the plants in all their glory. Thank you so much. Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Tim Chapman Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 12:10 PM Here in Louisiana they are pretty much shot in the summer. You might get some to stay evergreen, but you shouldn't see much active growth if at all in the heat of summer. They often look very ratty if they don't go dormant. Tim Chapman On Aug 14, 2011, at 1:50 PM, "AW" wrote: > In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English writes > about various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. These > beautiful plants are not ones with which I have much experience. > Starting las year I acquired several, planted them out in a pond where > they grew slowly but apparently quite healthily all summer and winter. > This year, in April and May the display was superb. The variety was, I > believe, Black Gamecock. Each day there were tens of blooms open on > these plants and this went on for well over four weeks. I was most > impressed. After the blooming ended the plants produced no new growth > and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, while not mushy at their roots, show no signs of active growth. > > Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? > > The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the roots > about two inches below water level. I did try lifting them above the > water level after yellowing took place. It made no difference. After > consulting with Dennis Kramb and indirectly with other people > knowledgeable about these plants it appears that the climate, the > water depth andwater temperature were all in the right ranges. They > received full sun all day after March and full sun part of te day > earlier in the year. I have tried applying a fertilizer to attempt stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. > > The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed > themselves to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and > acquired the yellow pallor thereafter. > > If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing it. > > Andrew > San Doego From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 16:39:14 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 21:38:58 +0100 I think they sometimes dry off during summer in the wild too, -and prefered water depth depends on the species involved. I only grow fulva and x fulvala though, but "dural White Butterfly" is a pretty fantastic variety which would make a good contrast to Black Gamecock. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:20 PM, AW wrote: > Ahah! That is not something I have ever seen in any of the books I've read > about them. Sounds like the books only deal with the plants in all their > glory. Thank you so much. > > Andrew > San Diego > > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Tim Chapman > Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 12:10 PM > > Here in Louisiana they are pretty much shot in the summer. You might get > some to stay evergreen, but you shouldn't see much active growth if at all > in the heat of summer. They often look very ratty if they don't go > dormant. > > > Tim Chapman > > On Aug 14, 2011, at 1:50 PM, "AW" wrote: > > > In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English writes > > about various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. These > > beautiful plants are not ones with which I have much experience. > > Starting las year I acquired several, planted them out in a pond where > > they grew slowly but apparently quite healthily all summer and winter. > > This year, in April and May the display was superb. The variety was, I > > believe, Black Gamecock. Each day there were tens of blooms open on > > these plants and this went on for well over four weeks. I was most > > impressed. After the blooming ended the plants produced no new growth > > and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, while not mushy at > their roots, show no signs of active growth. > > > > Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? > > > > The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the roots > > about two inches below water level. I did try lifting them above the > > water level after yellowing took place. It made no difference. After > > consulting with Dennis Kramb and indirectly with other people > > knowledgeable about these plants it appears that the climate, the > > water depth andwater temperature were all in the right ranges. They > > received full sun all day after March and full sun part of te day > > earlier in the year. I have tried applying a fertilizer to attempt > stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. > > > > The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed > > themselves to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and > > acquired the yellow pallor thereafter. > > > > If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing it. > > > > Andrew > > San Doego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From awilson@avonia.com Sun Aug 14 17:05:38 2011 Message-Id: <065784FE769643CE8C81AB387707F74B@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:05:57 -0700 I'll consider it, Peter, now that I have a better idea about what they look like in summer. I had originally planned on groups along the margin providing height all year to contrast with waterlilies (hardy and tropical) and 'surface' genera. There are plenty of taller water species but I had hoped to include irid members since there are bulbous irid species near the pond (Watsonias, Crocosomias, Dietes, etc.). Maybe there are some South African waterplants that could serve the purpose. Watsonia tabularis is tall, at least for part of the year, likes moist ground but is hardly a water plant. Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart I think they sometimes dry off during summer in the wild too, -and prefered water depth depends on the species involved. I only grow fulva and x fulvala though, but "dural White Butterfly" is a pretty fantastic variety which would make a good contrast to Black Gamecock. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:20 PM, AW wrote: > Ahah! That is not something I have ever seen in any of the books I've > read about them. Sounds like the books only deal with the plants in > all their glory. Thank you so much. > > Andrew > San Diego > > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Tim Chapman > Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 12:10 PM > > Here in Louisiana they are pretty much shot in the summer. You might > get some to stay evergreen, but you shouldn't see much active growth > if at all in the heat of summer. They often look very ratty if they > don't go dormant. > > > Tim Chapman > > On Aug 14, 2011, at 1:50 PM, "AW" wrote: > > > In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English > > writes about various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. > > These beautiful plants are not ones with which I have much experience. > > Starting las year I acquired several, planted them out in a pond > > where they grew slowly but apparently quite healthily all summer and winter. > > This year, in April and May the display was superb. The variety was, > > I believe, Black Gamecock. Each day there were tens of blooms open > > on these plants and this went on for well over four weeks. I was > > most impressed. After the blooming ended the plants produced no new > > growth and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, while not > > mushy at > their roots, show no signs of active growth. > > > > Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? > > > > The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the > > roots about two inches below water level. I did try lifting them > > above the water level after yellowing took place. It made no > > difference. After consulting with Dennis Kramb and indirectly with > > other people knowledgeable about these plants it appears that the > > climate, the water depth andwater temperature were all in the right > > ranges. They received full sun all day after March and full sun part > > of te day earlier in the year. I have tried applying a fertilizer to > > attempt > stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. > > > > The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed > > themselves to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and > > acquired the yellow pallor thereafter. > > > > If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing it. > > > > Andrew > > San Doego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 17:22:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 22:22:33 +0100 Hi Andrew, I think the poor summer foliage might depend on the species the Iris cultivars come from, What about ensatas and the eye shadow Iris? Asiatic and American as well as African Crinum species might give you height at the margins of a pond or even in it. How fantastic to grow some of the tropical waterlillies. I think some of the bigger Dieramas might do but they get tatty in the winter, bannas or Cannas? some Moreas are pretty big and like water also Cypella? and South Americans - Neomarica?? Sisyrinchium palmifolium? Best of luck Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 10:05 PM, AW wrote: > I'll consider it, Peter, now that I have a better idea about what they look > like in summer. I had originally planned on groups along the margin > providing height all year to contrast with waterlilies (hardy and tropical) > and 'surface' genera. There are plenty of taller water species but I had > hoped to include irid members since there are bulbous irid species near the > pond (Watsonias, Crocosomias, Dietes, etc.). Maybe there are some South > African waterplants that could serve the purpose. Watsonia tabularis is > tall, at least for part of the year, likes moist ground but is hardly a > water plant. > > Andrew > San Diego > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Peter Taggart > > I think they sometimes dry off during summer in the wild too, -and prefered > water depth depends on the species involved. I only grow fulva and x > fulvala > though, but "dural White Butterfly" is a pretty fantastic variety which > would make a good contrast to Black Gamecock. > Peter (UK) > > On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 9:20 PM, AW wrote: > > > Ahah! That is not something I have ever seen in any of the books I've > > read about them. Sounds like the books only deal with the plants in > > all their glory. Thank you so much. > > > > Andrew > > San Diego > > > > > > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > > On Behalf Of Tim Chapman > > Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 12:10 PM > > > > Here in Louisiana they are pretty much shot in the summer. You might > > get some to stay evergreen, but you shouldn't see much active growth > > if at all in the heat of summer. They often look very ratty if they > > don't go dormant. > > > > > > Tim Chapman > > > > On Aug 14, 2011, at 1:50 PM, "AW" wrote: > > > > > In the last issue (Summer) of The Bulb Garden Margerite English > > > writes about various kinds of irises, including Louisiana irises. > > > These beautiful plants are not ones with which I have much experience. > > > Starting las year I acquired several, planted them out in a pond > > > where they grew slowly but apparently quite healthily all summer and > winter. > > > This year, in April and May the display was superb. The variety was, > > > I believe, Black Gamecock. Each day there were tens of blooms open > > > on these plants and this went on for well over four weeks. I was > > > most impressed. After the blooming ended the plants produced no new > > > growth and the existing foliage turned yellow. The plants, while not > > > mushy at > > their roots, show no signs of active growth. > > > > > > Could Marguerite, or anyone else here, care to comment on this? > > > > > > The plants were planted in wide containers with the tops of the > > > roots about two inches below water level. I did try lifting them > > > above the water level after yellowing took place. It made no > > > difference. After consulting with Dennis Kramb and indirectly with > > > other people knowledgeable about these plants it appears that the > > > climate, the water depth andwater temperature were all in the right > > > ranges. They received full sun all day after March and full sun part > > > of te day earlier in the year. I have tried applying a fertilizer to > > > attempt > > stimulation of growth. So far, nothing has succeeded. > > > > > > The only explanation I can offer is that the plants just bloomed > > > themselves to death. They had been quite healthy before blooming and > > > acquired the yellow pallor thereafter. > > > > > > If anyone has a better suggestion to offer I would appreciate hearing > it. > > > > > > Andrew > > > San Doego > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Aug 14 17:30:59 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 21:30:57 +0000 Andrew, it is not impossible to find which Louisiana cultivars are grown in South Africa and this is a good indication of heat tolerance. Those I have from that origin are impervious to the worst summers. Cypella herberti and coelestis can be grown at the pond's edge with wet feet but not waist deep so to speak. Sisyrinchium palmifolium and Neomaricas are not found in flooded ground. From awilson@avonia.com Sun Aug 14 20:21:33 2011 Message-Id: <6D02047127944605A25C02CAB1171440@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 17:22:37 -0700 I don't want to go overboard here! Sisyrinchium palmifolium does grow well in this area. I have a friend who grows it fine in clay soil , not under water in summer. A bit weedy for her, especially in wet winter years like we had. Cannas are, of course, possible although you see them quite a lot bedded out. I really was looking for less tropical looking plants (no taros, colocasia etc.) to provide structure year rund with good-looking flowers. Cypella might work. Very attractive in bloom. Will they sit in water, roots at water level? Maybe Cypella aquatilis if C. coelstis does not. Of course, the Australian Crinum pedunculatum would work. I have a few. It does get pretty big, however, if it gets down into rich soil. Crinum moorei is easy, grows here in shade. But at the dege of a pond? Not sure. Or, Crinum variabile, have some of them. It does grow in streams in the 'wet' season. With belladonnas in bloom nearby, I suppose that would be a reasonable choice. No, let's stay practical! Besides, year-round appearance is not its strength. I'll also check other irises, but the news about the water irises in Louisiana going dormant after bloom is a pity. Anyhow, some food for thought. Thanks Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Hi Andrew, I think the poor summer foliage might depend on the species the Iris cultivars come from, What about ensatas and the eye shadow Iris? Asiatic and American as well as African Crinum species might give you height at the margins of a pond or even in it. How fantastic to grow some of the tropical waterlillies. I think some of the bigger Dieramas might do but they get tatty in the winter, bannas or Cannas? some Moreas are pretty big and like water also Cypella? and South Americans - Neomarica?? Sisyrinchium palmifolium? Best of luck Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 14, 2011 at 10:05 PM, AW wrote: > I'll consider it, Peter, now that I have a better idea about what they > look like in summer. I had originally planned on groups along the > margin providing height all year to contrast with waterlilies (hardy > and tropical) and 'surface' genera. There are plenty of taller water > species but I had hoped to include irid members since there are > bulbous irid species near the pond (Watsonias, Crocosomias, Dietes, > etc.). Maybe there are some South African waterplants that could serve > the purpose. Watsonia tabularis is tall, at least for part of the > year, likes moist ground but is hardly a water plant. > > Andrew > San Diego From totototo@telus.net Sun Aug 14 20:49:46 2011 Message-Id: <4E480AB3.24027.29B7@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: summer dormancy (was Blue bulb and similar) Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 17:49:39 -0700 A couple of remarks: 1. About summer dryness. The writer of the gardening column in our local newspaper used to perpetuate the misunderstanding that dry means sandy soil. (She conflated well-drained with summer dry, I s'pose.) In point of fact, many geophytes needing dry summer conditions grow natively in quite heavy soils. While crocuses do not too badly on lean, sandy soils, as is obvious from some of E. A. Bowles' remarks in his remarkable "My Garden in..." trilogy, tulips and narcissus demand soils with considerably more body. Even "well drained" doesn't imply "sandy soils". My own garden is a quagmire in winter, being the former site of a small swamp, but it only takes a rather low raised bed, perhaps a foot high, to get the bulbs up and out of the squelch. 2. Mediterranean climate One easy resource for climate data is Wikipedia. The entries for many cities include tables of weather averages and extremes that can be very illuminating. For example, at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victoria,_British_Columbia#Climate The Victoria entry also includes a well thought out graph of the averages, though it does not display the extremes. [Secret tip: the spreadsheet programs I've worked with have all included a special graph for stock price data, and these are very well adapted to display of average & extreme weather data.] If you are perplexed by climatic data and terms like "Mediterranean climate", I can think of no better way of getting one's head around the subject than such graphical presentations for representative cities. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 23:45:28 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 20:45:23 -0700 Thank u I'm just getting used to the extra mail load haha............. On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 12:13 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Welcome to the PBS list, Steven! Here you will find lots of enthusiastic > plant people from all over the world who share the same passion in plants. > People here are very friendly and helpful so if you have any questions just > ask. Happy posting! > > Nhu > a PBS Wiki administrator > > On Wed, Aug 10, 2011 at 11:42 PM, steven hart < > hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun Aug 14 23:55:20 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Blue bulb Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 20:55:17 -0700 Hey Andrew, if u already have your answer oops but i am working through the emails step by step haha......... They grow in my area of Australia, SE Queensland, I know Sandiago well, I had a girlfriend near u & have visited, i think they would grow easilly there.....Conditions are similar to here, it can be a bit dry at times & warm pretty much all year. We do have a short very cold snap in winter & a bit more rain fall than u Best of luck Steven On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 2:10 PM, AW wrote: > One of those ads popped up today from e-Bay telling me about a beautiful, > blue-flowered lily that somebody wanted to sell. It sounded pretty good but > no Latin name for the species was provided. A little work later, I narrowed > it down to possibly Ixiolirion tataricum. The epithet seems to indicate it > comes form central Asia. For this area, with a nearly frostless climate, > that might not be a good choice. I looked it up in the Wiki and became more > or less convinced that I had the right name. The Wiki did not indicate in > which climate zones the bulbs would be suited. I'm sure somebody among us > grows the attractive bulb. Would it grow here? > > Andrew > San Diego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From awilson@avonia.com Mon Aug 15 00:17:18 2011 Message-Id: <20081D8D8FD44D42ABA641DD7D0E4D7D@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 21:18:21 -0700 Alberto, so Cypella coelestis only accepts damp feet. That's a pity. Pond depths may fluctate, one reason I prefer plants that will at all times be underwater, even if only a few centimeters or so. How about Cypella aquatilis? Andrew San Diego From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2011 2:31 PM Andrew, it is not impossible to find which Louisiana cultivars are grown in South Africa and this is a good indication of heat tolerance. Those I have from that origin are impervious to the worst summers. Cypella herberti and coelestis can be grown at the pond's edge with wet feet but not waist deep so to speak. Sisyrinchium palmifolium and Neomaricas are not found in flooded ground. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 15 01:37:31 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Louisiana iris Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2011 23:33:08 -0500 >I'll also check other irises, but the news about the water irises in >Louisiana going dormant after bloom is a pity. > Andrew, Never fear. Not all of them go quite so dormant and especially if grown in 6 or more inches of water. You might ask around to see which ones look best in summer in your area. Isn't there a southern CA iris Society or two around? Other suggestions such as the new Pseudata iris are great although I am not sure of their tolerance for water over their rhizomes. They are half Japanese and Japanese Iris do not tolerate submergence year round. They have a large range of colors and patterns and are totally sterile so do not seed around Personally I think the best water iris are cvs of I. laevigata. There are single and double flowered forms, blue, white, purple and one with brilliantly variegated foliage stay looking good all season. There's also some interesting foliage reeds (Phragmites and Arundo) as well as a very pretty variegated cat tail (Typha). And for the same look a variegated foliage Acorus calamus. Very pretty with glossy leaves. Keep looking. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From sgage4@eq.edu.au Mon Aug 15 06:52:18 2011 Message-Id: <7670e6994870.4e4986fd@eq.edu.au> From: Shelley GAGE Subject: Hello Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 20:52:13 +1000 Dear Steven, I am interested in many plants but especially love amaryllids. I am off to Brazil next month hoping to get photos of hippeastrum and other amaryllids. With any luck I might get to see Worseyla flowering in its native habitat. I am buying a new camera in anticipation. I was in Uruguay and Brazil for the International Palm Conference last year and had to go back. Shelley On 12/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > Hi Shelley > > Thanks, i wish i had joined up long ago, i have looked at the PBS website > meny times as a reference, especially when i was trying to find out about a > native crinum from here, it took me several months & it is the SE Queensland > Crinum Flaccidum, they are beautiful, Brisbane lilies are native on my > property too. > > What do u like to collect ? > > I gotta get to work, for a few days straight now  :-) > > Bye for now Shelly > Happy Gardening.......... > Steven > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Shelley GAGE wrote: > > > Dear Steven, > > Welcome. I live between Gympie and the coast and have visited Ron's amazing > > collection on the way to Hervey Bay. It's good to have another local on > > board. > > Shelley Gage > > > > On 11/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > > > > > Hi Alan > > > > > > I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here high > > dry > > > peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. Lots > > of > > > due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some > > Madagascan > > > Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. > > > > > > I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot of > > new > > > email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, i > > work > > > from friday until Monday 3am till late  so its early to bed for me, i > > only > > > get a few hours sleep on weekends > > > > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary > > wrote: > > > > > > > Welcome aboard Steven. > > > > > > > > You have similar interests to me. > > > > > > > > Whereabouts in Australia do you live? > > > > > > > > Alan O'Leary > > > > Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "steven hart" > > > > To: > > > > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM > > > > Subject: [pbs] Hello > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > > > > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long ago & > > > > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From btankers@gmail.com Mon Aug 15 17:59:12 2011 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 16:59:11 -0500 Thank you to all the PBS'ers that responded to the original Lycoris information update! Finally the Lycoris are coming up at Chicago Botanic Garden and in my home landscape in Grayslake. Curious this year, both sanguinea and squamigera are coming into flower at the same time. As I mentioned in the original post, we've had record setting rainfall since mid-July in the Chicago region so I am at a loss to explain the delayed flower emergence. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Chicago, Illinois USDA zone 5 continental summers and winters From kellso@irvincentral.com Mon Aug 15 19:01:09 2011 Message-Id: <4E49A523.2080709@irvincentral.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Lycoris Season yet? Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 18:00:51 -0500 Mine, too, Boyce. Additionally, the L. longituba, and an L. longituba hybrid, and even some L. sprengeri. I expected such after such a late start from the normally early species. Just bone hard soil and 100 degree temps until last Tuesday. My L. radiata var. pumila normally get started mid-August, and here we are, so I'm expecting major activity through this week. We shall see. Time to pollinate, I suppose. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin 10850 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 USA 479-787-9958 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6a/b http://www.irvincentral.com/ On 8/15/11 4:59 PM, Boyce Tankersley wrote: > Finally the Lycoris are coming up at Chicago Botanic Garden and in my home > landscape in Grayslake. Curious this year, both sanguinea and squamigera > are coming into flower at the same time. From ds429@comcast.net Mon Aug 15 22:02:45 2011 Message-Id: <000001cc5bb8$a123f4a0$e36bdde0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 22:03:00 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 283" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jim Shields: 1. Seed of Sprekelia howardii From Mary Sue Ittner: Bulbs/Corms: 2. Freesia caryophyllacea 3. Oxalis engleriana - fall blooming 4. Oxalis massoniana 5. Oxalis obtusa - not sure what the flowers on this were like as it was one that appeared in another pot and I didn't make a note of it 6. Seed of Geissorhiza brehmii From Lynn Makela: Bulbs/Corms: 7. Freesia grandiflora 8. Hippeastrum papilio, “Butterfly amaryllis,” a few small bulbs 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer 10. Oxalis melanosticta, ‘Ken Aslet’ 11. Oxalis purpurea alba 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers From Matt Mattus: Bulbs: 13. Oxalis flava lupinifolia 14. Oxalis namaquana 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few 16. Stenomesson pearcei From Kathleen Sayce: 17. Colchicum autumnale bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb grower. 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years ago in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. 19. Ixia 'Garden Gems' bulbs are white flowered, from a rack, mixed sizes. Can't tell you the species. They were sold to me as Ixia 'Garden Gems" or Cornlily Garden Gems.  Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon Aug 15 22:04:01 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hello Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 19:03:59 -0700 O so lucky, I have been to Rio & Iguassu Falls, I had they overwhelming urge to disappear into the rain forest like an early explorer. I have quite a few hippeastrums just about to enjoy the first flowers, goats ate a few buds off though. They mowed crushed & stomped about $5000 worth of bulbs into the ground actually, If they didn't wiggle their ears & tails so sweetly we might have to discuss their living arrangements. I'll have some princess flowering soon. I grow Worseylas too i love the colour & i'm a sucker for anything endangered in my eyes. I'd love to see them in the wild too I think all my Hippeastrums are hybreds but i have a big interest in endemic natives. I wana come with u to Brazil On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 3:52 AM, Shelley GAGE wrote: > Dear Steven, > I am interested in many plants but especially love amaryllids. I am off to > Brazil next month hoping to get photos of hippeastrum and other amaryllids. > With any luck I might get to see Worseyla flowering in its native habitat. I > am buying a new camera in anticipation. I was in Uruguay and Brazil for the > International Palm Conference last year and had to go back. > Shelley > > On 12/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > > > Hi Shelley > > > > Thanks, i wish i had joined up long ago, i have looked at the PBS website > > meny times as a reference, especially when i was trying to find out about > a > > native crinum from here, it took me several months & it is the SE > Queensland > > Crinum Flaccidum, they are beautiful, Brisbane lilies are native on my > > property too. > > > > What do u like to collect ? > > > > I gotta get to work, for a few days straight now :-) > > > > Bye for now Shelly > > Happy Gardening.......... > > Steven > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Shelley GAGE wrote: > > > > > Dear Steven, > > > Welcome. I live between Gympie and the coast and have visited Ron's > amazing > > > collection on the way to Hervey Bay. It's good to have another local on > > > board. > > > Shelley Gage > > > > > > On 11/08/11, steven hart wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Alan > > > > > > > > I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here > high > > > dry > > > > peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. > Lots > > > of > > > > due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some > > > Madagascan > > > > Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. > > > > > > > > I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot > of > > > new > > > > email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, > i > > > work > > > > from friday until Monday 3am till late so its early to bed for me, i > > > only > > > > get a few hours sleep on weekends > > > > > > > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary > > > wrote: > > > > > > > > > Welcome aboard Steven. > > > > > > > > > > You have similar interests to me. > > > > > > > > > > Whereabouts in Australia do you live? > > > > > > > > > > Alan O'Leary > > > > > Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > > From: "steven hart" > > > > > To: > > > > > Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM > > > > > Subject: [pbs] Hello > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Everyone ! > > > > > > > > > > > > I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long > ago & > > > > > > collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > pbs mailing list > > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From mmattus@charter.net Tue Aug 16 00:03:38 2011 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 00:03:36 -0400 I was going to post an image of some never-bloomed corms that I have in a 'mystery' pot of corms raised from seed that I bought from Silverhill Seed planted 2006. I say 'mystery' since the label says Ferraria crispa, but I was doubting the accuracy, since the foliage looks nothing like any of the foilage in many Ferraria photos. I have never grown this genus before. After looking at the PBS Wiki, I think that these are indeed Ferraria crispa, but I have a problem. I had been potting up the cormlets every year, and now I have many, far too many. They are not very large, the largest is about the size of a US quarter coin, and the rest, smaller. They have been dividing in copious amounts. Should I repot all of the corms deeper? Right now, they are falling out of the pot, pushing themselves out over the rim, and they are so tight inside the pot that I may have to crack it. I have them in a 10 inch clay pot, with a fast draining soil mix which is mostly lean, and about 80% perlite. The foliage is magnificent, but no flowers yet. Should I isolate the larger corms and plant those alone? What sort of soil mixture should I use? It would be nice to see one of these many corms bloom! Of course, these may even not be Ferraria, but I am going to trust my metal label. Matt Mattus Worcester, MA Zone 5b On 8/15/11 10:03 PM, "steven hart" wrote: > O so lucky, I have been to Rio & Iguassu Falls, I had they overwhelming urge > to disappear into the rain forest like an early explorer. > I have quite a few hippeastrums just about to enjoy the first flowers, goats > ate a few buds off though. They mowed crushed & stomped about $5000 worth of > bulbs into the ground actually, If they didn't wiggle their ears & tails so > sweetly we might have to discuss their living arrangements. I'll have some > princess flowering soon. I grow Worseylas too i love the colour & i'm a > sucker for anything endangered in my eyes. I'd love to see them in the wild > too > I think all my Hippeastrums are hybreds but i have a big interest in endemic > natives. > I wana come with u to Brazil > On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 3:52 AM, Shelley GAGE wrote: > >> Dear Steven, >> I am interested in many plants but especially love amaryllids. I am off to >> Brazil next month hoping to get photos of hippeastrum and other amaryllids. >> With any luck I might get to see Worseyla flowering in its native habitat. I >> am buying a new camera in anticipation. I was in Uruguay and Brazil for the >> International Palm Conference last year and had to go back. >> Shelley >> >> On 12/08/11, steven hart wrote: >>> >>> Hi Shelley >>> >>> Thanks, i wish i had joined up long ago, i have looked at the PBS website >>> meny times as a reference, especially when i was trying to find out about >> a >>> native crinum from here, it took me several months & it is the SE >> Queensland >>> Crinum Flaccidum, they are beautiful, Brisbane lilies are native on my >>> property too. >>> >>> What do u like to collect ? >>> >>> I gotta get to work, for a few days straight now :-) >>> >>> Bye for now Shelly >>> Happy Gardening.......... >>> Steven >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Shelley GAGE wrote: >>> >>>> Dear Steven, >>>> Welcome. I live between Gympie and the coast and have visited Ron's >> amazing >>>> collection on the way to Hervey Bay. It's good to have another local on >>>> board. >>>> Shelley Gage >>>> >>>> On 11/08/11, steven hart wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Hi Alan >>>>> >>>>> I am in the mountains near Esk Queensland. The crinums love it here >> high >>>> dry >>>>> peaks surrounded by rain forest gorges about 500m above sea level. >> Lots >>>> of >>>>> due & fog through out the year. I'm having good success with some >>>> Madagascan >>>>> Crinums, my favorites along with the Australian natives. >>>>> >>>>> I'm looking forward to working out how this all works. Sure got a lot >> of >>>> new >>>>> email visiters haha.........mmmm i'll have to watch the time though, >> i >>>> work >>>>> from friday until Monday 3am till late so its early to bed for me, i >>>> only >>>>> get a few hours sleep on weekends >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Thu, Aug 11, 2011 at 1:06 AM, Alan O'Leary >>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Welcome aboard Steven. >>>>>> >>>>>> You have similar interests to me. >>>>>> >>>>>> Whereabouts in Australia do you live? >>>>>> >>>>>> Alan O'Leary >>>>>> Adelaide ,Sth Australia zone 10A >>>>>> >>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>>>> From: "steven hart" >>>>>> To: >>>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 11, 2011 4:12 PM >>>>>> Subject: [pbs] Hello >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> Hi Everyone ! >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I'm Steven. I love fragrant gardens, was a nursery manager long >> ago & >>>>>>> collect Crinums, Amerillys & various other goodies. >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> pbs mailing list >>>>>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> pbs mailing list >>>>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> pbs mailing list >>>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> pbs mailing list >>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From lizwat@earthlink.net Tue Aug 16 01:32:00 2011 Message-Id: <4E4A00EF.2010204@earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 22:32:31 -0700 Wow, it keeps getting better. Liz Waterman 6041 Harwood. Ave. Oakland, CA 94618-1337 On 8/15/2011 7:03 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > > > From Mary Sue Ittner: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 2. Freesia caryophyllacea > > > > From Lynn Makela: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 7. Freesia grandiflora > 8. Hippeastrum papilio, "Butterfly amaryllis," a few small bulbs > 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer > > > 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few > 16. Stenomesson pearcei > > > From Kathleen Sayce: > > 17. Colchicum autumnale bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty > large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally > purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb > grower. > > 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years ago > in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. > > > Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 03:40:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 08:40:11 +0100 Hello Matt, I don't know a lot about Ferraria in particular but I would pot the corms deeper and would put an additional layer of 6mm or 10mm gravel on top. This results in fewer bigger corms and bulbs. I pot some tulips at the bottom of pots 30 cm deep, fill with compost to half way up and the top 15 cms is gravel. If you pot at the very bottom of a pot, you must remember to avoid a suspended water table by ensuring that there is a capillary action from the drainage holes of the pot. Peter (UK) On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 5:03 AM, Matt Mattus wrote: > > I was going to post an image of some never-bloomed corms that I have in a > 'mystery' pot of corms raised from seed that I bought from Silverhill Seed > planted 2006. I say 'mystery' since the label says Ferraria crispa, but I > was doubting the accuracy, since the foliage looks nothing like any of the > foilage in many Ferraria photos. I have never grown this genus before. > > After looking at the PBS Wiki, I think that these are indeed Ferraria > crispa, but I have a problem. I had been potting up the cormlets every > year, > and now I have many, far too many. They are not very large, the largest is > about the size of a US quarter coin, and the rest, smaller. They have been > dividing in copious amounts. > > Should I repot all of the corms deeper? Right now, they are falling out of > the pot, pushing themselves out over the rim, and they are so tight inside > the pot that I may have to crack it. I have them in a 10 inch clay pot, > with > a fast draining soil mix which is mostly lean, and about 80% perlite. The > foliage is magnificent, but no flowers yet. > > Should I isolate the larger corms and plant those alone? What sort of soil > mixture should I use? It would be nice to see one of these many corms > bloom! > > Of course, these may even not be Ferraria, but I am going to trust my metal > label. > > Matt Mattus > Worcester, MA > Zone 5b > > > From petersirises@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 04:15:53 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Fwd: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 09:15:51 +0100 sorry my wordig was ambiguos, so I have edited and re sent this ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Peter Taggart Date: Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 8:40 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Ferraria crispa Corms To: Pacific Bulb Society Hello Matt, I don't know a lot about Ferraria in particular but I would pot the corms deeper and would put an additional thick layer of 6mm or 10mm gravel on top. This results in fewer, bigger corms / bulbs, rather than lots of offsetts. I pot some tulips at the bottom of pots 30 cm deep, fill with compost to half way up and the top 15 cms is gravel. N.B. If you pot at the very bottom of a pot, you must remember to avoid a suspended water table by ensuring that there is a capillary action from the drainage holes of the pot. Peter (UK) On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 5:03 AM, Matt Mattus wrote: > > I was going to post an image of some never-bloomed corms that I have in a > 'mystery' pot of corms raised from seed that I bought from Silverhill Seed > planted 2006. I say 'mystery' since the label says Ferraria crispa, but I > was doubting the accuracy, since the foliage looks nothing like any of the > foilage in many Ferraria photos. I have never grown this genus before. > > After looking at the PBS Wiki, I think that these are indeed Ferraria > crispa, but I have a problem. I had been potting up the cormlets every > year, > and now I have many, far too many. They are not very large, the largest is > about the size of a US quarter coin, and the rest, smaller. They have been > dividing in copious amounts. > > Should I repot all of the corms deeper? Right now, they are falling out of > the pot, pushing themselves out over the rim, and they are so tight inside > the pot that I may have to crack it. I have them in a 10 inch clay pot, > with > a fast draining soil mix which is mostly lean, and about 80% perlite. The > foliage is magnificent, but no flowers yet. > > Should I isolate the larger corms and plant those alone? What sort of soil > mixture should I use? It would be nice to see one of these many corms > bloom! > > Of course, these may even not be Ferraria, but I am going to trust my metal > label. > > Matt Mattus > Worcester, MA > Zone 5b > > > From klazina1@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 04:18:47 2011 Message-Id: <4E4A27F2.9000004@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: growing seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 20:18:58 +1200 I will shortly get some seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa, but have no idea what conditions it should be given. I would love some advice on that. Ina Crossley Auckland where we had a record high of 8 degrees C yesterday and no better today. The plants were just beginning to think it was spring.... From ds429@comcast.net Tue Aug 16 07:58:20 2011 Message-Id: <1418507824.340890.1313495412341.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 11:50:12 +0000 (UTC) I have received your order.   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Liz Waterman" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 1:32:31 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 283 Wow, it keeps getting better. Liz Waterman 6041 Harwood. Ave. Oakland, CA 94618-1337 On 8/15/2011 7:03 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > > > From Mary Sue Ittner: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 2. Freesia caryophyllacea > > > > From Lynn Makela: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 7. Freesia grandiflora > 8. Hippeastrum papilio, "Butterfly amaryllis," a few small bulbs > 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer > > > 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few > 16. Stenomesson pearcei > > > From Kathleen Sayce: > > 17. Colchicum autumnale  bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty > large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally > purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb > grower. > > 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina  bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years ago > in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. > > > Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 10:03:26 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 14:03:24 +0000 One quarter in diameter for several species of Ferraria is flowering size. Typically corms develop one on top of the other in rosary fashion and the rosary is better not divided (will make for larger plants). Better choose the larger ones and pot them together. As you say foliage in all Ferraria species is typical and unlike that of all other bulbs. Deep planting is sensible as the corms bury themselves and are found really deep in pots. A mix with plenty of coarse sand and grit would be great and many species grow in the wild in pure sand. If you have so many, why not to consider give them suitable homes by sending them to PBS Seed and Bulb Exchange. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 16 11:26:13 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: OT PBS business Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:06:39 -0500 Dear PBS members and friends, The PBS board over the last few months approved a new set of PBS promotional materials to attract new members. I just received a small supply of really nice full color book marks, each featuring a different flowering bulb and boasting of PBS activities from this list to membership and more. Arnold Trachenberg, our Treasurer, will insert them into packets of info sent to new members and eventually we hope to include one in a copy of'The Bulb Garden', our quarterly newsletter. Nhu will have some for the attendees to the N. Cal get together schedule for later this month. We hope to get these out via other plant related meetings, regular members and other forums. If only a small percentage of people are introduced to the PBS through these attractive book marks they'll be well worth the production. If you'd like to one with your latest BX/Seed Ex request drop Dell a note and ask him to add one. Thanks to Jennifer Hildebrand and Arnold as prime movers on this effort. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 16 11:26:15 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:25:25 -0500 Dear Friends, This is the first week of Lycoris season. They are the stars of not just my garden, but all around the neighborhood. L. squamigera is a very common "Legacy Bulb'. The Pink Naked Ladies or Surprise Lilies can be seen flowering by the hundreds in rows along sidewalks and lawn edges. Their sudden appearance and shocking pink color delight everyone. In my garden the start of Lycoris season is usually heralded by L. sanguinea, a Japanese species. This year it is blooming with the first run of L. squamigera, L. longituba, L. chinensis and their hybrids followed by the slightly later appearance of L. sprengeri. Some of the L. longituba appear in the flava form or in various shades of yellow and other hybrids in pinker/lilac tones. I suspect our extended drought has pushed the start of bloom season together and thus the explosion of so many that are usually spread out over a wider time frame. A recent wind storm knocked down some flower stalks. I cut these off and put them in a vase where they make surprisingly long lasting cut flowers. If you do this use a wide bottom vase because stem bottoms split and curl to fill the space. I have hundreds of flowers from the front garden to back and side to side. A GLORIOUS site. On a much smaller display I have single stem of Lilium formosanum in bloom. The drought did a number. Only one bulb in bloom and only about 4-5 ft tall as opposed to its more typical 6 to 8 ft. Only 3 buds opening as opposed to typically twice or more in number. And the 2 inches of rain has initiated Rain lilies- Zephyranthes- Z. candida, Z. grandiflora, Z. reginae although others are expected. A couple potted Crinum americanum are in bloom this week, too. A small species, but a welcome sight. The best for last - One clump of Lycoris longituba produced a single flower with double petals last year. This year that same clump has gone slightly berserk. One flower has an amazing 24 petals - quadruple the typical -with a matching number of anthers. Another bulb has produced a double flower with 12 petals and anthers and there are a couple other double or multi-petal flowers. I have posted pix on Facebook and will try to get some on the wiki soon, too. I am not sure if they are attractive or just shockingly strange. I have self pollinated the multipetal forms, but seed takes so long to bloom. This year I had a few of my own seedlings blooming for the first time. An exciting week in Kansas City. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 16 11:28:54 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2A4050236AB0-814-5317@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT PBS business Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 11:28:41 -0400 Is there a cost associated with these, if we want to add them to the exchange? Thanks, Jude From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 16 11:29:57 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2A40708FD2EF-814-537E@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT PBS business Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 11:29:36 -0400 What if we wanted one of each ? Sounds like a lot of us might enjoy them. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 16 11:37:12 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:37:00 -0500 >Is there a cost associated with these, if we want to add them to the exchange? >Thanks, Jude Dear Jude, There is no cost for just one, but we printed a limited number so only one can be tossed in. We didn't discuss the cost of a set of four so without talking to the board, let me throw out a number. How about a set of four for a dollar extra? Dell is that OK.? Arnold? Dell may need a few extras if there is a demand. Didn't mean to spring this on him. I will admit they all look great. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From kellso@irvincentral.com Tue Aug 16 11:40:57 2011 Message-Id: <4E4A8F72.4060000@irvincentral.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:40:34 -0500 A simple solution to the curling is a rubber band stretched around the cut end... > A recent wind storm knocked down some flower stalks. I cut these off > and put them in a vase where they make surprisingly long lasting cut > flowers. If you do this use a wide bottom vase because bottoms split > and curl to fill the space. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin 10850 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 USA 479-787-9958 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6a/b From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Tue Aug 16 11:48:38 2011 Message-Id: <410-220118216154831812@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 11:48:31 -0400 > > Should I isolate the larger corms and plant those alone? What sort of soil > mixture should I use? It would be nice to see one of these many corms bloom! > Hi Matt, Single corms in 5-6 inch diameter pots (deep style) planted 1 inch below the surface in our bulb mix (3b+perlite+pine bark chips or expanded shale) but the best specimen (dark form) is in a concrete block on the greenhouse floor in nondescript recycled mix. I can send you a picture pf a blooming size corm if you want. A one inch corm will grow to over 2 inches in two years and then bloom it's head off. Freddi loves this flower. Best, Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a Glorious day in the Albemarle regio From desertdenial@hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 12:11:03 2011 Message-Id: From: Denise Marie Ortiz Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:05:54 -0600 I would love to be able to purchase one of each. I thik it would be a great way to support the PBS and a way to introduce others to the PBS Thanks, Marie > Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:37:00 -0500 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: jwaddick@kc.rr.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] OT PBS business - bookmarks > > >Is there a cost associated with these, if we want to add them to the exchange? > >Thanks, Jude > > Dear Jude, > There is no cost for just one, but we printed a limited > number so only one can be tossed in. We didn't discuss the cost of a > set of four so without talking to the board, let me throw out a > number. How about a set of four for a dollar extra? Dell is that OK.? > Arnold? Dell may need a few extras if there is a demand. Didn't mean > to spring this on him. > > I will admit they all look great. Best Jim W. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 12:44:42 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: growing seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:44:41 +0000 Seed must be sown in autumn. Kept under frost free conditions although someone will no doubt comment it is hardy in Quebec. Well drained soil. Geissorhizas are not common in cultivation, in my experience they like mild conditions in winter while they are growing. Some of the most striking species need lot fo wter at flowering time. The easiest are inaequalis and aspera. Dormant in summer. Under ideal conditions flowering will tke place during the third season of growth. From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Tue Aug 16 12:55:36 2011 Message-Id: <410-220118216165532656@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: growing seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:55:32 -0400 I find that many Geissorhiza will germinate in year 2 and 3 so keep those pots. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 16 13:01:45 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2A4D4860A265-814-6E5D@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:01:32 -0400 Sounds awesome! Emailing Dell now :) From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 16 13:10:31 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2A4E7EF3EB3E-814-712C@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:10:13 -0400 Also, these would make fantastic gifts, which is another way to introduce more people to the PBS. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Aug 16 13:19:07 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: Ferraria crispa Corms Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 10:17:37 -0700 In my experience, when you have a bulb that never flowers but just splits up, the best thing to do is leave it alone for a few years rather than repotting constantly. Flowering is sometimes thought to be a response to a "threat" to the parent plant's continued existence, and depletion of soil nutrients may be a trigger. In contrast, splitting up can be a response to predation by digging animals -- the more tiny corms are present, the more chance the plant can survive disturbance. I don't know about Ferraria in particular, but South African bulbs are quite subject to being dug up and eaten, e.g. by baboons. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA Matt wrote., > > After looking at the PBS Wiki, I think that these are indeed Ferraria > > crispa, but I have a problem. I had been potting up the cormlets every > > year, > > and now I have many, far too many. They are not very large, the largest is > > about the size of a US quarter coin, and the rest, smaller. They have been > > dividing in copious amounts. > > > > Should I repot all of the corms deeper? Right now, they are falling out of > > the pot, pushing themselves out over the rim, and they are so tight inside > > the pot that I may have to crack it. I have them in a 10 inch clay pot, > > with > > a fast draining soil mix which is mostly lean, and about 80% perlite. The > > foliage is magnificent, but no flowers yet. > > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 16 14:02:20 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:54:39 -0500 >A simple solution to the curling is a rubber band stretched around the >cut end... Thanks Kelly, I am usually not that organized. My apologies too in my previous post. All the Lycoris and Lilies are in the ground year round and perfectly hardy. The Crinum american and various Zephyranthes are strictly potted items. Most of these do very well in pots kept frost free in winter. They take a bit of periodic watering to stay in good health. Wish the rain lilies were hardier for me and I have yet to try the Crinum. Maybe ? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 16 14:02:21 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 13:02:11 -0500 >Also, these would make fantastic gifts, which is another way to >introduce more people to the PBS. Dear Friends, Another round of apologies. I really did jump the gun with this as a BX offer. They truly are hot off the presses. Some board members and officers have still not seen them. Dell says he can't readily accommodate these in the current BX and prefers to ship them flat and not rolled up in his standard square boxes. So none right now. We intend to use these to entice new members and don't really have a marketing scheme. Some of you will see these sooner than others, but right now the board needs to get around to implementing a plan of distribution. If you have requests, write to me privately at jwaddick@gmail.com. As details are confirmed, I'll get back to all requests. Thanks for your enthusiastic response. May be even more coming in the future. Stay tuned. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue Aug 16 14:15:26 2011 Message-Id: <1313518525.51144.YahooMailClassic@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Whats not quite blooming this week of Aug 15th, 2011 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 11:15:25 -0700 (PDT) I was surprised to find two scapes today ... one of a purchased Brunsvigia litoralis still in its original 1-gallon container ... and another of my own seed-grown B.litoralis X B.josephinae, which seems either apomictic, or if an actual hybrid, has retained the foliage characteristics of the mother B.litoralis, as well as the entirely subterranean bulb habit of the mother.   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6050332230/   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6050331352/   Ken Blackford San Diego From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 16 15:14:13 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2A5FC6DBB243-814-8FFC@Webmail-d108.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT PBS business - bookmarks Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 15:13:55 -0400 Understandable - and I'm game - emailing you now! Jude = From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 15:15:23 2011 Message-Id: <00a301cc5c48$d49cac60$7dd60520$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Ferraria crispa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:14:51 -0700 Matt wrote: >>I think that these are indeed Ferraria crispa, but I have a problem. I had been potting up the cormlets every year, and now I have many, far too many. Chances are you do really have Ferraria crispa. They produce multiple corms like crazy. I repot mine every couple of years; if I wait longer the entire pot will be filled with corms. Fortunately, they do not spread horizontally, so I don't think they are an invasive threat. They are pretty easy to bloom in typical summer-dry mediterranean conditions. As others have suggested, leave the corm clumps intact and you'll get bloom sooner. I have bloomed them in 8-inch pots, with the tops of the corms an inch or two below the surface. Bigger pots may work better. Use very well drained soil. I have a number of other Ferraria species, and many of them are much harder to make bloom here. I'm not sure what the problem is, although a number of them are desert species and it may be too wet for them here in winter. Good luck, and let us know what the flowers look like when they bloom -- they are quite variable. Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 15:24:12 2011 Message-Id: <00a801cc5c4a$112f2760$338d7620$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 12:24:06 -0700 Ina wrote: >>I will shortly get some seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa, but have no idea what conditions it should be given. I would love some advice on that. Standard mediterranean conditions: summer dry, good light in winter, good drainage, don't freeze them (they are hardy to light frost). These are small plants and probably best grown in a pot. Their reported range is pretty large, from the Cape itself up into desert areas. So you might want to ask where exactly your seeds are from. Do you have the red or white version? I've found that the white version is easier to grow in my conditions. I don't know why the red one is difficult for me. Still experimenting to figure it out. It might want a little bit of moisture in summer. Good luck! Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -6C) From klazina1@gmail.com Tue Aug 16 15:44:57 2011 Message-Id: <4E4AC8B7.5040700@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:44:55 +1200 Thanks Alberto and Mike. It is the red variety, also known as Geissorhiza Wine Cup. Are these light sensitive, or should they be covered? Any special soil, or just a standard seed raising mix? As it is early spring here, should they be kept until autumn? The climate is about zone 9-10 here. Wet winters, some rain summers. I will keep these in a pot so I can keep them dry in summer. Thank you Ina Crossley On 17/08/2011 7:24 a.m., Michael Mace wrote: > Ina wrote: > >>> I will shortly get some seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa, but have no idea what > conditions it should be given. I would love some advice on that. > > Standard mediterranean conditions: summer dry, good light in winter, good > drainage, don't freeze them (they are hardy to light frost). These are > small plants and probably best grown in a pot. Their reported range is > pretty large, from the Cape itself up into desert areas. So you might want > to ask where exactly your seeds are from. > > Do you have the red or white version? I've found that the white version is > easier to grow in my conditions. I don't know why the red one is difficult > for me. Still experimenting to figure it out. It might want a little bit of > moisture in summer. > > Good luck! > > Mike > San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -6C) > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From antigre10@yahoo.gr Tue Aug 16 15:45:32 2011 Message-Id: <1313523924.58314.YahooMailNeo@web29309.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Σχετ: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 20:45:24 +0100 (BST) Pancratium maritimum, habitat photos on a beach of Laconia, S. Peloponesse, Greece.   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140093.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140090.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140088.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140087.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140081.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140084.jpg Απο: James Waddick Προς: Pacific Bulb Society Στάλθηκε: 8:54 μ.μ. Τρίτη, 16 Αυγούστου 2011 Θεμα: Re: [pbs] What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 >A simple solution to the curling is a rubber band stretched around the >cut end... Thanks Kelly,     I am usually not that organized.     My apologies too in my previous post. All the Lycoris and Lilies are in the ground year round and perfectly hardy.     The Crinum american and various Zephyranthes are strictly potted items.  Most of these do very well in pots kept frost free  in winter.  They take a bit of periodic watering to stay in good health. Wish the rain lilies were hardier for me and I have yet to try the Crinum. Maybe ?         Best        Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph.    816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F     Summer 100F + From robin@no1bird.com Tue Aug 16 16:56:59 2011 Message-Id: <2539DA8F0D314F71B0BCB88319564A75@RobinPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:32:22 -0400 I would like to have -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dell Sherk" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 10:03 PM To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" ; "'Mark Wilcox'" Cc: "'Roger Macfarlane'" Subject: [pbs] Pacific BX 283 > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members to be > shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me > PRIVATELY > at . Include "BX 283" in the subject line. > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, > first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to > ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS > treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, > or > international postage. > > PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A > SURCHARGE > ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. > > Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not > members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO > MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take > advantage > of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors > will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), > please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. > New Hope, PA, 18938 > USA > > Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > >From Jim Shields: > > 1. Seed of Sprekelia howardii > >From Mary Sue Ittner: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 2. Freesia caryophyllacea > 3. Oxalis engleriana - fall blooming > 4. Oxalis massoniana > 5. Oxalis obtusa - not sure what the flowers on this were like as it was > one that appeared in another pot and I didn't make a note of it > > 6. Seed of Geissorhiza brehmii > >From Lynn Makela: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 7. Freesia grandiflora > 8. Hippeastrum papilio, "Butterfly amaryllis," a few small bulbs > 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer > 10. Oxalis melanosticta, 'Ken Aslet' > 11. Oxalis purpurea alba > 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers > >From Matt Mattus: > > Bulbs: > > 13. Oxalis flava lupinifolia > 14. Oxalis namaquana > 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few > 16. Stenomesson pearcei > >From Kathleen Sayce: > > 17. Colchicum autumnale bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty > large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally > purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb > grower. > > 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years > ago > in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. > > 19. Ixia 'Garden Gems' bulbs are white flowered, from a rack, mixed sizes. > Can't tell you the species. They were sold to me as Ixia 'Garden Gems" or > Cornlily Garden Gems. > > Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From robin@no1bird.com Tue Aug 16 16:38:22 2011 Message-Id: <348CF5D9A5584422A9D3C2E6B80AA7D6@RobinPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 16:33:49 -0400 request 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers thanks robin carrier 6904 beachland beach rd prospect, ky 40059 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dell Sherk" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 10:03 PM To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" ; "'Mark Wilcox'" Cc: "'Roger Macfarlane'" Subject: [pbs] Pacific BX 283 > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members to be > shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me > PRIVATELY > at . Include "BX 283" in the subject line. > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, > first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to > ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS > treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, > or > international postage. > > PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A > SURCHARGE > ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. > > Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not > members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO > MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take > advantage > of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors > will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), > please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. > New Hope, PA, 18938 > USA > > Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > >From Jim Shields: > > 1. Seed of Sprekelia howardii > >From Mary Sue Ittner: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 2. Freesia caryophyllacea > 3. Oxalis engleriana - fall blooming > 4. Oxalis massoniana > 5. Oxalis obtusa - not sure what the flowers on this were like as it was > one that appeared in another pot and I didn't make a note of it > > 6. Seed of Geissorhiza brehmii > >From Lynn Makela: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 7. Freesia grandiflora > 8. Hippeastrum papilio, "Butterfly amaryllis," a few small bulbs > 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer > 10. Oxalis melanosticta, 'Ken Aslet' > 11. Oxalis purpurea alba > 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers > >From Matt Mattus: > > Bulbs: > > 13. Oxalis flava lupinifolia > 14. Oxalis namaquana > 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few > 16. Stenomesson pearcei > >From Kathleen Sayce: > > 17. Colchicum autumnale bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty > large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally > purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb > grower. > > 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years > ago > in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. > > 19. Ixia 'Garden Gems' bulbs are white flowered, from a rack, mixed sizes. > Can't tell you the species. They were sold to me as Ixia 'Garden Gems" or > Cornlily Garden Gems. > > Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 19:29:49 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Ferraria crispa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 23:29:41 +0000 Mike, try planting them very deep in the pots. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Aug 16 19:33:51 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 23:33:48 +0000 It is form erosa. Keep seeds until next autumn, too late to sow now. They can be sown uncovered but in this case rainfall will scatter all seed about and it will be lost. In nature no one covers the seed! A well drained mix with plenty of coarse sand. From klazina1@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 00:16:56 2011 Message-Id: <4E4B40C3.7090104@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 16:17:07 +1200 Thank you Alberto. Would it be best to keep the seed in the fridge? A sealed container? Ina On 17/08/2011 11:33 a.m., Alberto Castillo wrote: > It is form erosa. Keep seeds until next autumn, too late to sow now. > > They can be sown uncovered but in this case rainfall will scatter all seed about and it will be lost. In nature no one covers the seed! > > A well drained mix with plenty of coarse sand. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 00:20:42 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 21:20:39 -0700 Hi Ina I'm glad u asked the question, sounds like the answer to why my strike rate was so poor. I'll have to put those trays aside & hope some more pop up next Autumn. I cant wait to get a patch of them going. I planted too late by the sound of it but the ones that made it are rageing & the nights here have been down to zero in super short bursts. They are in a shade house though. Thanks for the tips everybody ! On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 12:44 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Thanks Alberto and Mike. It is the red variety, also known as > Geissorhiza Wine Cup. > > Are these light sensitive, or should they be covered? Any special soil, > or just a standard seed raising mix? > > As it is early spring here, should they be kept until autumn? The > climate is about zone 9-10 here. Wet winters, some rain summers. I > will keep these in a pot so I can keep them dry in summer. > > Thank you > > Ina Crossley > > > On 17/08/2011 7:24 a.m., Michael Mace wrote: > > Ina wrote: > > > >>> I will shortly get some seed of Geissorhiza Inflexa, but have no idea > what > > conditions it should be given. I would love some advice on that. > > > > Standard mediterranean conditions: summer dry, good light in winter, good > > drainage, don't freeze them (they are hardy to light frost). These are > > small plants and probably best grown in a pot. Their reported range is > > pretty large, from the Cape itself up into desert areas. So you might > want > > to ask where exactly your seeds are from. > > > > Do you have the red or white version? I've found that the white version > is > > easier to grow in my conditions. I don't know why the red one is > difficult > > for me. Still experimenting to figure it out. It might want a little bit > of > > moisture in summer. > > > > Good luck! > > > > Mike > > San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -6C) > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 01:56:55 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hi Everyone a question ? Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:56:53 -0700 Hi everyone ! I'm in Queensland Australia, Sub Tropical Environment.. I'm looking for help to germinate Worsleya rayneri from seed ? I have some seeds that were so expensive, I'm a bit worried to get it wrong.............. Please let me know if you've had some success !! Happy Gardening........... Steven From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 02:14:08 2011 Message-Id: <00f201cc5ca4$db5f2760$921d7620$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 23:13:55 -0700 >>Are these light sensitive, or should they be covered? I'd plant the seed a couple of mm deep. >>Any special soil, or just a standard seed raising mix? The same mix you would use for other summer-dormant bulbs. I use 50-50 sand and milled peat, with inorganic fertilizer. GO easy on the organics. >>As it is early spring here, should they be kept until autumn? Yes, definitely. If you plant them now they won't have time to form bulbs before summer, and may die (if they try to go dormant) or rot (if they try to keep growing). And yes, keep the pots out of the rain in the summer. Don't get them hot, but also don't get them wet. Mike From klazina1@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 02:21:54 2011 Message-Id: <4E4B5E0D.4000204@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:22:05 +1200 Thanks Mike. Is it best to keep the seed in the fridge until autumn (which is 6-7 months away here), in a sealed container? Also do they like sun or shade. Or part sun/shade? Ina And yes, keep the pots out of the rain in the summer. Don't get them hot, but also don't get them wet Mike From ron_redding@hotmail.com Wed Aug 17 03:07:41 2011 Message-Id: From: Ronald Redding Subject: Hi Everyone a question ? Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:07:39 +1000 Hi Steven I have probably answered this question over 1000 times, I will give you a quick run down on my method. I use cooled boiled water and float the seeds at room temperature - usually after a week or two you will see radicles emerge (you need to be careful here as mold or fungus can develop which I have found mainly attacks older seeds, this needs to be treated as soon as it is detected). Once a seed has a radicle about 1cm long (1/2" for our US members) I then plant the seed into my standard growing medium. I have learnt that young plants will perform better with some morning sun and light shade in the hottest part of the day, I also try and keep them warm during winter. As the plants matures they receive full sun all day during Winter and then full sun only part of the day during Summer. I achieve this by having them facing north against a wall of my shadehouse of facing north on the northern side of a tree or shrub (also bamboo at my place). I would have them on the Southern side if I lived in the Northern hemisphere. Also for your information I have germinated and grown hundreds of my own and others seed of worselya and also many other plants, my basic method now is that if the seed will float then that is how I will germinate it. This buys me time and I don't have to constantly worry that my new seed will dessicate because of lack of water, hope this helps. My worsleya collection now consists of many different clones from all over the world and now I have a good number of my own seedlings from seed that I have set myself, which I am very proud of. Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:56:53 -0700 > From: hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Hi Everyone a question ? > > Hi everyone ! > > I'm in Queensland Australia, Sub Tropical Environment.. > > I'm looking for help to germinate Worsleya rayneri from seed ? > > I have some seeds that were so expensive, I'm a bit worried to get it > wrong.............. > > Please let me know if you've had some success !! > > Happy Gardening........... > Steven > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 03:24:54 2011 Message-Id: <010801cc5cae$bb518ad0$31f4a070$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:24:40 -0700 >> Is it best to keep the seed in the fridge until autumn (which is 6-7 months away here), in a sealed container? In the fridge or just in a paper envelope indoors where they'll be at room temperature and dry. For one season, they'll keep without refrigeration. Remember that in nature they'd be lying on the hot dry soil for half a year. >>Also do they like sun or shade. Or part sun/shade? I think sun is best, especially since they grow in winter when you'll have a lot of cloud cover anyway. But they will tolerate part shade. Mike From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 03:26:57 2011 Message-Id: <010901cc5caf$0750cdb0$15f26910$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Ferraria crispa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:26:48 -0700 Alberto wrote: >> Mike, try planting them very deep in the pots. Thanks, I will give it a try. I should have asked you last week, before I repotted them. Mike San Jose, CA From klazina1@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 03:40:51 2011 Message-Id: <4E4B708F.5060702@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:41:03 +1200 Thanks Mike. It will be interesting to see what happens eventually. Ina On 17/08/2011 7:24 p.m., Michael Mace wrote: >>> Is it best to keep the seed in the fridge until autumn (which is 6-7 > months away here), in a sealed container? > > In the fridge or just in a paper envelope indoors where they'll be at room > temperature and dry. For one season, they'll keep without refrigeration. > Remember that in nature they'd be lying on the hot dry soil for half a year. > > >>> Also do they like sun or shade. Or part sun/shade? > I think sun is best, especially since they grow in winter when you'll have a > lot of cloud cover anyway. But they will tolerate part shade. > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 05:36:39 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hi Everyone a question ? Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 02:36:36 -0700 Hello Ron Thank u so much for the advise ! Its so nice to have been contacted by a couple of collectors in Australia, i'm in the mountains near Esk so we are nearly neighbors. I have only just started my new love for these beautiful gems & i would like to build a special collection of them too, i think they are superb. If u ever sell any of your collection, i'd be more than happy to become an avid collector haha.........I'm ever increasing the garden meterage :-) I have a funny feeling i wouldn't have something u wish for but u never know, what else do u collect ? Do u like crinums ? I have about 26 different ones so far & i'm pretty proud of them. I love a story & i have a couple that survived the sailing ships, they are from Africa one imported in 1828 & the other in 1880, a special part of history i think, as a crinum collector anyway. I can see its going to be a lifetime obsession..........Yippee.................. Spring has already sprung for me....... Should i plant the Worslea seeds now ?? On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:07 AM, Ronald Redding wrote: > > Hi Steven > > I have probably answered this question over 1000 times, I will give you a > quick run down on my method. > > I use cooled boiled water and float the seeds at room temperature - usually > after a week or two you will see radicles emerge (you need to be careful > here as mold or fungus can develop which I have found mainly attacks older > seeds, this needs to be treated as soon as it is detected). Once a seed has > a radicle about 1cm long (1/2" for our US members) I then plant the seed > into my standard growing medium. I have learnt that young plants will > perform better with some morning sun and light shade in the hottest part of > the day, I also try and keep them warm during winter. As the plants matures > they receive full sun all day during Winter and then full sun only part of > the day during Summer. I achieve this by having them facing north against a > wall of my shadehouse of facing north on the northern side of a tree or > shrub (also bamboo at my place). I would have them on the Southern side if I > lived in the Northern hemisphere. > > Also for your information I have germinated and grown hundreds of my own > and others seed of worselya and also many other plants, my basic method now > is that if the seed will float then that is how I will germinate it. This > buys me time and I don't have to constantly worry that my new seed will > dessicate because of lack of water, hope this helps. My worsleya collection > now consists of many different clones from all over the world and now I have > a good number of my own seedlings from seed that I have set myself, which I > am very proud of. > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia > > > > Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:56:53 -0700 > > From: hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Hi Everyone a question ? > > > > Hi everyone ! > > > > I'm in Queensland Australia, Sub Tropical Environment.. > > > > I'm looking for help to germinate Worsleya rayneri from seed ? > > > > I have some seeds that were so expensive, I'm a bit worried to get it > > wrong.............. > > > > Please let me know if you've had some success !! > > > > Happy Gardening........... > > Steven > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From antigre10@yahoo.gr Wed Aug 17 07:44:19 2011 Message-Id: <1313579618.94918.YahooMailNeo@web29306.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: What's blooming this week 15 August 2011 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:13:38 +0100 (BST) Habranthus tubispathus   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=DSCN8075.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=DSCN8073.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=DSCN8056.jpg   Zephyranthes citrina, first flower of the season.   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=DSCN8097.jpg   http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=DSCN8096.jpg   greetings from Greece,   Antigoni From ds429@comcast.net Wed Aug 17 08:13:25 2011 Message-Id: <527132666.4419.1313583203266.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific BX 283 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:13:23 +0000 (UTC) I have received your order.   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robin Carrier" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 4:33:49 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 283 request 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers  thanks robin carrier 6904 beachland beach rd prospect, ky 40059 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Dell Sherk" Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 10:03 PM To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" ; "'Mark Wilcox'" Cc: "'Roger Macfarlane'" Subject: [pbs] Pacific BX 283 > Dear All, > >       The items listed below have been donated by our members to be > shared. > >  If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me > PRIVATELY > at . Include "BX 283" in the subject line. > >        Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, > first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to > ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS > treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, > or > international postage. > > PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A > SURCHARGE > ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. > >    Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not > members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO > MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take > advantage > of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... > >         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors > will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), > please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. > New Hope, PA, 18938 > USA > > Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. > >            I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > >From Jim Shields: > > 1. Seed of Sprekelia howardii > >From Mary Sue Ittner: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 2. Freesia caryophyllacea > 3. Oxalis engleriana - fall blooming > 4. Oxalis massoniana > 5. Oxalis obtusa - not sure what the flowers on this were like as it was > one that appeared in another pot and I didn't make a note of it > > 6. Seed of Geissorhiza brehmii > >From Lynn Makela: > > Bulbs/Corms: > > 7. Freesia grandiflora > 8. Hippeastrum papilio, "Butterfly amaryllis," a few small bulbs > 9. Oxalis fabaefolia, rabbit ears, nice bloomer > 10. Oxalis melanosticta, 'Ken Aslet' > 11. Oxalis purpurea alba > 12. Oxalis purpurea, salmon flowers > >From Matt Mattus: > > Bulbs: > > 13. Oxalis flava lupinifolia > 14. Oxalis namaquana > 15. Asphodelus acaulis, ex Paul Christian, few > 16. Stenomesson pearcei > >From Kathleen Sayce: > > 17. Colchicum autumnale bulbs have spread vigorously and are mostly pretty > large, pink flowering, typical of the species. They were originally > purchased from either a local nursery, on a rack, or ordered from a bulb > grower. > > 18. Hyacinthoides xmassartina bulbs are from plantings done 50-100 years > ago > in my yard. There are also seeds. Colors are blue, pink and white, mixed. > > 19. Ixia 'Garden Gems' bulbs are white flowered, from a rack, mixed sizes. > Can't tell you the species. They were sold to me as Ixia 'Garden Gems" or > Cornlily Garden Gems. > > Thank you, Jim, Mary Sue, Lynn, Matt, and Kathleen !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@comcast.net Wed Aug 17 08:18:25 2011 Message-Id: <2136165189.4710.1313583503625.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific BX 283 CLOSED Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:18:23 +0000 (UTC) Orders should go into the mail after the weekend. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 10:59:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Σχετ: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:59:32 -0700 Antigone, I am a big fan of habitat photos and your photo of these plants in flower by the beach is wonderful. Most people just focus on them with sand but this is the first that I have seen with the water in the background. I thought they were close to the water but I had no idea how close! Great photos. Nhu 2011/8/16 Antigoni Rentzeperis > Pancratium maritimum, habitat photos on a beach of Laconia, S. Peloponesse, > Greece. > > > http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb341/anti25/?action=view¤t=P8140093.jpg > From pslate22@yahoo.com Wed Aug 17 11:11:06 2011 Message-Id: <1313593863.66589.YahooMailNeo@web111901.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: Ferraria Monograph Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:11:03 -0700 (PDT) Dear PBS, For those of you interested in genus Ferraria, Goldblatt and Manning have published a revision this year.  If you'd like a copy of the monograph, please write to me privately and I'd be happy to email it to you.   Best regards, Pamela Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Aug 17 12:41:52 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:41:03 -0500 >I am a big fan of habitat photos and your photo of these plants in flower by >the beach is wonderful. Most people just focus on them with sand but this is >the first that I have seen with the water in the background. Wow. I agree with Nhu. So Antigone, Do these get washed by salt water with each tide? Or just highest high tides once every .......? Thanks Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From markus.breier@gmx.de Wed Aug 17 13:42:06 2011 Message-Id: <42FEE6553267440C8C713371C29C3F36@fambreier> From: "Markus Breier" Subject: Russian Allium - which species? Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:35:20 +0200 Dear pbs-members, Today I got an Allium I cannot identify. Somebody brought it from Russia, where it grows in her grandmothers garden. - No idea, where it is from originally. Here a short description: Leafs about 30-40 cm high, 2,5 cm broad, thin (like A. ampeloprasum) Inflorescence higher, also with small offset bulbs Flowers rose The rhizome divides after each florescence. Picture of the flower: http://hs1.abload.de/img/brutzwiebelnqsjj.jpg Picture of the plant with offset bulbs (left side, on the right for comparison: A. senescens and A. senescens var glaucum): http://forum.garten-pur.de/attachments/allium_russisch.jpg Who has a hint? Which species might that be? Best Wishes Markus Breier USDA 6b Bavaria, Southern Germany where autumn slowly enters the garden From antigre10@yahoo.gr Wed Aug 17 14:49:39 2011 Message-Id: <1313604537.25122.YahooMailNeo@web29304.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Σχετ: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:08:57 +0100 (BST) I' m glad you liked the photos, Nhu and Jim.   This colony goes on for about 2 klms and especially the plants on the other end ( where the beach is very narrow) are practically growing in the sea, where the waves end. I' try to get some more pictures. It's a good thing that just a few people use this beach.   regards,   Antigoni   Απο: James Waddick Προς: Pacific Bulb Society Στάλθηκε: 7:41 μ.μ. Τετάρτη, 17 Αυγούστου 2011 Θεμα: [pbs] What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 >I am a big fan of habitat photos and your photo of these plants in flower by >the beach is wonderful. Most people just focus on them with sand but this is >the first that I have seen with the water in the background. Wow. I agree with Nhu. So Antigone,    Do these get washed by salt water with each tide?     Or just highest high tides once every .......?         Thanks    Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph.    816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F     Summer 100F + From ksayce@willapabay.org Wed Aug 17 14:50:17 2011 Message-Id: <71061274-6E50-4B72-8478-2C69F0E5D451@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:50:11 -0700 Greetings, all. I have two pots of Rhodophialia seedlings from the PBS BX, both germinated nicely, but then the grazing began. These seedlings are highly edible to something. Any ideas as to which animals like this so much that they will wiggle inside 1/2 inch wire mesh to graze? I'm about to create fine mesh sacks for each pot to keep the munchers out. Kathleen PNW, zone 8, coastal, and finally dry after a damp spring and early summer From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Aug 17 15:15:38 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Ferraria crispa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:15:31 +0000 After one or two seasons, they corms appear noticeably deeper in the pots. From dkramb@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 15:31:21 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:31:18 -0400 I'm guessing something cute and fuzzy. <3 But that's not very helpful, is it. :-) Dennis in Cincinnati (where my garden is overrun with cute fuzzy critters: bunnies, kitties, squirrels, raccoons, even a skunk and some opossums, but thankfully no deer, did I mention bunnies? i never saw so many bunnies! it's cute overload some days) On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 2:50 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > Greetings, all. > > I have two pots of Rhodophialia seedlings from the PBS BX, both germinated > nicely, but then the grazing began. These seedlings are highly edible to > something. > Any ideas as to which animals like this so much that they will wiggle > inside 1/2 inch wire mesh to graze? I'm about to create fine mesh sacks for > each pot to keep the munchers out. > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Aug 17 15:38:33 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Growing seed of Geissorhiza inflexa Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:38:32 +0000 Ina, Geissorhiza inflexa is not one of the Wine Cups. From msittner@mcn.org Wed Aug 17 16:27:12 2011 Message-Id: <20110817202705.E2CADE8D51@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 13:26:40 -0700 Hi, I didn't report the new items from last week, Scadoxus membranaceus and Pelargonium longifolium. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Scadoxus#membranaceus http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/PelargoniumSpeciesTwo#longifolium This week I'm enjoying Milla biflora which just started: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Milla Eucomis bicolor and E. comosa http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/EucomisTwo#bicolor and Zantedeschia 'Blaze' which has been enjoyable for quite awhile, with giant leaves this year and the flower color changing slightly as it matures. This plant is interesting with different light hitting it. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zantedeschia#Blaze Others blooming are Acis autumnalis, Allium flavum, Aristea ecklonii, more and more Cyclamen hederifolium and some others that I mentioned a couple of weeks ago. Speaking of "weedy" species, I also found some Crocosmia blooming in my garden this week. It reminded me of what we have said before, that one person's weed is another person's treasure. Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora is blooming all along the road verges this year. We had a longer period of rainfall so better flowering this year. It spreads too well by stolons that plunk down new corms as they go. I tried to get rid of all I could find in my garden, not only because it spreads and soon takes over, but also because my garden is relatively shady and very dry in summer so it usually didn't bloom, just spread. Getting rid of it requires vigilance, especially in the areas where it doesn't bloom as you may not notice it until you have a large patch. Another blooming plant is an Ornithogalum I grew from a dubiously named batch of seed from NARGS seed exchange. When Cameron McMaster visited me a couple of years ago upon seeing it, he advised me to get rid of it. It is true that it reseeds a bit into other pots, but it is relatively easy to pull out of those pots. It could be O. juncifolium but my plants don't have bulbs that sit above the surface like the ones pictured on the wiki from Pamela Slate, and the leaves aren't quite like the one identified as this species in the Eastern Cape. With occasional water this plant blooms for a very long time and stays almost evergreen so I'm keeping it. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 17:15:19 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 14:15:17 -0700 Our Milla biflora here started just a little before yours, about a week ago. It is a very nice plant with large flowers for its size and the fragrance at night is spicy and enchanting. It can be grown and bloom in just a small 4" pot. I want to have a crop of these in a large pot in the future. Did you get yours from Telos, Mary Sue? Also blooming is Tigridia pavonia, Cyrtanthus 'White Gem', Oxalis teneriensis (syn. Oxalis herrerae), and Oxalis tuberosa are starting to bloom. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6049684603 http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6053196347 Nhu On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 1:26 PM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > This week I'm enjoying Milla biflora which just started: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Milla > From eez55@earthlink.net Wed Aug 17 17:20:22 2011 Message-Id: <380-220118317211957265@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 17:19:57 -0400 I'm suspecting something already in the pots, like cutworms, slugs, or snails. Take a look at the pots after it gets dark and you may find the culprits in action. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: Kathleen Sayce > To: > Date: 8/17/2011 2:50:12 PM > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > Greetings, all. > > I have two pots of Rhodophialia seedlings from the PBS BX, both germinated nicely, but then the grazing began. These seedlings are highly edible to something. > Any ideas as to which animals like this so much that they will wiggle inside 1/2 inch wire mesh to graze? I'm about to create fine mesh sacks for each pot to keep the munchers out. > > Kathleen > PNW, zone 8, coastal, and finally dry after a damp spring and early summer > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jshields@indy.net Wed Aug 17 18:13:44 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110817180221.02f1f2b0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:13:48 -0400 Blooming in central Indiana this week: In the garden -- Lycoris chinensis Lycoris longituba (regular white form) Lycoris sprengeri (just a couple starting so far) Crocosmia 'Elizabethan Garden' Crinum bulbispermum (reblooms) Crinum 'Emma Jones' (reblooms) Crinum variabile In pots -- Crinum carlo-schmidtii (just lasted one day) Eucomis bicolor Hippeastrum reticulatum striatifolium Hymenocallis 'Tropical Giant' Nerine krigei Scadoxus membranaceus Some of these are pictured in my Facebook pages and some will eventually get into my blog. Jim Shields Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/ShieldsGardens Garden Blog: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/index.html ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pelarg@aol.com Wed Aug 17 19:05:38 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2B494C9C4281-19D8-A4C3@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 19:05:32 -0400 (EDT) In my school garden, near the wall, at least 2 Amaryllis belladonna bulbs are spiking, the one that bloomed last year has two spikes and the first flower should open tomorrow. Zephyranthes candida is also blooming not far away, as is Crocosmia aurea, the latter is in bloom at home and at school in at least three spots (its spreading, but I love the large orange flowers), and in a large pot at home as well. Kniphofia porphyrantha and K. triangularis are blooming at home, Seemannia nematanthodes Evita is blooming at home along a wall, at school it was blooming but rabbits or voles chewed it back. Candy lilies (Pardecantha or Iris x norrisii or whatever its called these days) are mostly finishing up, with some late blooms still going. Gladiolus dalenii and hybrids thereof are blooming, and more will come into bloom from late planted bulbs, the ones left in the ground over winter are either finished or blooming now. A stray spike of Gladiolus Atom is open, most others of this variety finished weeks ago, as did G. papilio. In pots a seedling of Tigridia pavonia "Sunset in Oz" bloomed this morning, it was similar to what I think the parent must look like. Tulbaghias and various zephyranthes also are blooming on and off in pots, Z. labuffarosa hybrids look particularly nice. Nerine laticoma is also blooming in a pot. Ennealophus euryandrus is blooming from bulbs planted in the garden, but they will have to be lifted for winter. It blooms a long time for a geophytic plant. In pots Tigridia vanhouttei has been blooming off and on in its pot, it reminds me of Ferraria, but is easier to grow in our climate. Siphonochilus kirkii is blooming, it must be kept in pots and eventually dried off for winter. Three achimenes cultivars are blooming, including Yellow Beauty which came from a PBS offering, if I recall correctly. Chlorophytum bowkeri blooms a long time, seedpods form while new white flowers open up on the vertical stalks of this species in a pot. Some late hemerocallis hybrids also persist at school and home, thankfully there is no daylily rust in NY. Lilium speciosum is blooming in a home garden. I'm probably overlooking a thing or two, but as Sept approaches with cooler weather many more things come into bloom here, though not necessarily geophytes. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY Zone 6/7. We could use a bit less rain and more sun lately. From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed Aug 17 21:07:42 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 18:07:35 -0700 Hi Kathleen Some of those sneeky little jokers dont like peppermint oil very much & u can pop a little under the edges of the pot rims where it dosent wash off so easy. Don't get it on the plants though & its a bit of a prevention not a cure......... I have a hundred or so Bandicoot holes in the garden where they dig for worms & grubs every night, while the winter pickings are still scarse & nothing stops them, i work with them & fill the little holes with mulch or sand for better drainage hehe......... I was wondering, did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & cover with fine gravel or something ? I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & ankered but not covered or they wont grow. On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 11:50 AM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > Greetings, all. > > I have two pots of Rhodophialia seedlings from the PBS BX, both germinated > nicely, but then the grazing began. These seedlings are highly edible to > something. > Any ideas as to which animals like this so much that they will wiggle > inside 1/2 inch wire mesh to graze? I'm about to create fine mesh sacks for > each pot to keep the munchers out. > > Kathleen > PNW, zone 8, coastal, and finally dry after a damp spring and early summer > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu Aug 18 01:01:24 2011 Message-Id: From: Max Withers Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 22:01:13 -0700 I was out of town for a few days last week, and when I came home I discovered a nice Haemanthus coccineus bloom. I swear I looked at it right before I left and wrote it off for the year. Also opening this week is Cyrtanthus elatus x montanus. Then I went in the garage and discovered improbably fine stems emerging from the Tropaeolum tricolor I mentioned here several weeks ago -- they look like 24 lb. test monofilament, if anyone is familiar with fishing line. I was surprised, as my garage is very dark and I have not watered them at all. Should I water them and/or bring them outside? It's a good 2 months before I can expect any meaningful rain here. Best, Max Withers Oakland CA From rherold@yahoo.com Fri, 14 Oct 2011 13:40:38 -0700 Message-Id: <4E4CFACE.3030708@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Critters, was Rhodophialia Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 07:43:10 -0400 Dennis Kramb wrote: > I'm guessing something cute and fuzzy. I was thinking exactly the same thing last week when I found pots of narcissus bulbs on the floor of the greenhouse that had been dug up. I was convinced it was done by a chipmunk or mouse, so I set some traps. Nothing after several days. Finally, yesterday morning I saw some eyes peeking thru the soil at the top of a pot. Aha! A *toad*! He was duly escorted from the greenhouse and back to the garden. Fortunately toads do not eat plants, but just throw soil and bulbs all over the place. All of this sounds logical until you realize the toad had to go up a step, through a door, through a garage, through another door, and down four steps to get into the greenhouse. I would not at all be surprised if the toad had found his way back into the greenhouse yesterday... --Roy NW of Boston From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu Aug 18 08:25:11 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 12:25:07 +0000 Well, the million dollar question. If you force it back into dormancy, no guarantee it will resprout or even live. If my decision, I'd start watering but keep the pot out of direct sunshine (but in strong indirect light) until cooler weather sets sin. From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu Aug 18 16:14:20 2011 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & cover with fine gravel or something ? I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & ankered but not covered or they wont grow. Steven, I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. Kathleen From haweha@hotmail.com Thu Aug 18 17:44:33 2011 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 21:39:29 +0000 Seedlings of Amaryllids, and their first leaf respectively, can actually be consumed "invisibly" namely close to the soil level by the tiny maggots of Fungus Gnats. No, I am not kidding. All of a sudden a leaf here and a leaf there will drop down. Apply an agent that contains Imidaclopride or Chlorpyrifos. > From: ksayce@willapabay.org > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia ... ... ... > Steven, > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > Kathleen From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu Aug 18 18:31:40 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:31:36 -0700 Thanks Kathleen I'll do the same this time, i have lots to plant soon. I'm just starting to collect them & gee there are some nice ones available. As for ur vermin, mind u i think squirrels are pretty cute ! The Peppermint Oil ! Ants & Mice dont particularly like it either, although if its candy their after it might be too good to resist. Clove Oil is good too. I sell essential oils & people tall me their little snippets all the time. There is a product that might be worth a try, it is a possum deterrent called Quasia Chip its from a quasia plant. I dont know if it works but i saw it when i was in the nursery industry. Best of luck ! Steven On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:14 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > cover with fine gravel or something ? > > I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > Steven, > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on > top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy > little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than > slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to > keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets > nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than > 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > inclosure. > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. > : -) > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which > include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are > their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > Kathleen > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From prallen2@peoplepc.com Fri Aug 19 07:16:11 2011 Message-Id: <18059421.1313752570435.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: patty allen Subject: Rhodophialia Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 06:16:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00) This post is to comment on how early my pink Rhodophiala bifidas began blooming this year, despite our terribly dry conditions. I had my 1st pink bloom the 1st day of August, where they normally start blooming at the beginning of the 3rd week. Three days ago I noticed red Rhodophiala bifida blooming in 3 different locations in my nursery beds, and they don't normally start blooming, at their earliest until the last week of this month , then they really put on a show starting the first week in September. Patty Allen Southeast Texas -----Original Message----- >From: Kathleen Sayce >Sent: Aug 18, 2011 3:14 PM >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > >did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & >cover with fine gravel or something ? > >I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & >ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > >Steven, >I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. >I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) >They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > >Kathleen > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From Tony@plantdelights.com Fri Aug 19 18:50:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 18:49:40 -0400 Hi folks; Just found an amazing publication on-line from 1901 discussing intergeneric bulb crosses. For those interested in this sort of thing, this is just the sort of thing you'll be interested in. http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic%20crosses&f=false Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent From efgam@live.com Sat Aug 20 01:12:18 2011 Message-Id: From: Frank M Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 15:42:13 +1030 Re:3 Rhodophiala (Steven Hart)Hi there Steven I have grown a lot of Rhodophialas over the past few years and I have had a very impressive germination rate I basically use a cactus mix topped up with seed raising mix and then on top of that I place the seeds , after placing the seeds on top I then spread vermiculite on the seeds to retain moisture being mindful that you don't let the the vermiculite become dry,the moist vermiculite holds the seeds in place and off they go, having the cactus mix as the bottom layer helps the water to disperse, as soon as a leaf appear's I begin to apply a half strength seasol solution.After the second leaf pops up I then introduce a mild application of a soluble nitrogen less than half strength, the Rodophialas don't seem to mind these growing conditions one bit. Frank Sydney > From: pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:01:17 -0400 > > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Rhodophialia (Kathleen Sayce) > 2. Re: Rhodophialia (Hans-Werner Hammen) > 3. Re: Rhodophialia (steven hart) > 4. Re: Rhodophialia (patty allen) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 > From: Kathleen Sayce > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > cover with fine gravel or something ? > > I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > Steven, > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > Kathleen > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 21:39:29 +0000 > From: Hans-Werner Hammen > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > To: pbs pbs > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > Seedlings of Amaryllids, and their first leaf respectively, can actually be consumed "invisibly" namely close to the soil level by the tiny maggots of Fungus Gnats. No, I am not kidding. All of a sudden a leaf here and a leaf there will drop down. Apply an agent that contains Imidaclopride or Chlorpyrifos. > > > > From: ksayce@willapabay.org > > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > ... ... ... > > Steven, > > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. > > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) > > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > Kathleen > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:31:36 -0700 > From: steven hart > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Thanks Kathleen > > I'll do the same this time, i have lots to plant soon. I'm just starting to > collect them & gee there are some nice ones available. > > As for ur vermin, mind u i think squirrels are pretty cute ! > > The Peppermint Oil ! Ants & Mice dont particularly like it either, although > if its candy their after it might be too good to resist. Clove Oil is good > too. I sell essential oils & people tall me their little snippets all the > time. > > There is a product that might be worth a try, it is a possum deterrent > called Quasia Chip its from a quasia plant. I dont know if it works but i > saw it when i was in the nursery industry. > > Best of luck ! > Steven > > On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:14 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > > > did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > > cover with fine gravel or something ? > > > > I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > > ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > > > Steven, > > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on > > top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy > > little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than > > slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to > > keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets > > nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than > > 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > > inclosure. > > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. > > : -) > > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which > > include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are > > their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > Kathleen > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 06:16:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00) > From: patty allen > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > <18059421.1313752570435.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > This post is to comment on how early my pink Rhodophiala bifidas began blooming this year, despite our terribly dry conditions. I had my 1st pink bloom the 1st day of August, where they normally start blooming at the beginning of the 3rd week. > Three days ago I noticed red Rhodophiala bifida blooming in 3 different locations in my nursery beds, and they don't normally start blooming, at their earliest until the last week of this month , then they really put on a show starting the first week in September. > Patty Allen > Southeast Texas > -----Original Message----- > >From: Kathleen Sayce > >Sent: Aug 18, 2011 3:14 PM > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > > >did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > >cover with fine gravel or something ? > > > >I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > >ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > > >Steven, > >I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete inclosure. > >I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. : -) > >They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > >Kathleen > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ________________________________________ > PeoplePC Online > A better way to Internet > http://www.peoplepc.com > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 > ************************************ From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sat Aug 20 02:18:11 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 16:18:05 +1000 Hi Frank Thank you very much ! I like it , sounds like a recipe for success. The cacti mix under is a fantastic idea i have a slight problem with too much water retention, so i will try with my next trays. Happy Gardening Steven On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 3:12 PM, Frank M wrote: > > Re:3 Rhodophiala (Steven Hart)Hi there Steven I have grown a lot of > Rhodophialas over the past few years and I have had a very impressive > germination rate I basically use a cactus mix topped up with seed raising > mix and then on top of that I place the seeds , after placing the seeds on > top I then spread vermiculite on the seeds to retain moisture being mindful > that you don't let the the vermiculite become dry,the moist vermiculite > holds the seeds in place and off they go, having the cactus mix as the > bottom layer helps the water to disperse, as soon as a leaf appear's I begin > to apply a half strength seasol solution.After the second leaf pops up I > then introduce a mild application of a soluble nitrogen less than half > strength, the Rodophialas don't seem to mind these growing conditions one > bit. Frank > Sydney > > > From: pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 12:01:17 -0400 > > > > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. Rhodophialia (Kathleen Sayce) > > 2. Re: Rhodophialia (Hans-Werner Hammen) > > 3. Re: Rhodophialia (steven hart) > > 4. Re: Rhodophialia (patty allen) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 > > From: Kathleen Sayce > > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > > cover with fine gravel or something ? > > > > I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > > ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > > > Steven, > > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel > on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the > sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like > rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so > pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot > gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less > than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > inclosure. > > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the leaves. > : -) > > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, which > include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves are > their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > Kathleen > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 21:39:29 +0000 > > From: Hans-Werner Hammen > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > To: pbs pbs > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > > > > Seedlings of Amaryllids, and their first leaf respectively, can actually > be consumed "invisibly" namely close to the soil level by the tiny maggots > of Fungus Gnats. No, I am not kidding. All of a sudden a leaf here and a > leaf there will drop down. Apply an agent that contains Imidaclopride or > Chlorpyrifos. > > > > > > > From: ksayce@willapabay.org > > > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 13:14:15 -0700 > > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > ... ... ... > > > Steven, > > > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine > gravel on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, > the sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like > rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so > pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot > gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less > than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > inclosure. > > > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the > leaves. : -) > > > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, > which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves > are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > > > Kathleen > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 15:31:36 -0700 > > From: steven hart > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Message-ID: > > m69S2buV2FwAN3rgu8LDXYqw@mail.gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > > > Thanks Kathleen > > > > I'll do the same this time, i have lots to plant soon. I'm just starting > to > > collect them & gee there are some nice ones available. > > > > As for ur vermin, mind u i think squirrels are pretty cute ! > > > > The Peppermint Oil ! Ants & Mice dont particularly like it either, > although > > if its candy their after it might be too good to resist. Clove Oil is > good > > too. I sell essential oils & people tall me their little snippets all the > > time. > > > > There is a product that might be worth a try, it is a possum deterrent > > called Quasia Chip its from a quasia plant. I dont know if it works but i > > saw it when i was in the nursery industry. > > > > Best of luck ! > > Steven > > > > On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:14 PM, Kathleen Sayce >wrote: > > > > > did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > > > cover with fine gravel or something ? > > > > > > I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top > & > > > ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > > > > > Steven, > > > I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine > gravel on > > > top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the > sturdy > > > little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like rather > than > > > slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so pots, > to > > > keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot gets > > > nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less > than > > > 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > > > inclosure. > > > I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the > leaves. > > > : -) > > > They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, > which > > > include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves > are > > > their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > > > Kathleen > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 06:16:10 -0500 (GMT-05:00) > > From: patty allen > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Message-ID: > > < > 18059421.1313752570435.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > > This post is to comment on how early my pink Rhodophiala bifidas began > blooming this year, despite our terribly dry conditions. I had my 1st pink > bloom the 1st day of August, where they normally start blooming at the > beginning of the 3rd week. > > Three days ago I noticed red Rhodophiala bifida blooming in 3 different > locations in my nursery beds, and they don't normally start blooming, at > their earliest until the last week of this month , then they really put on > a show starting the first week in September. > > Patty Allen > > Southeast Texas > > -----Original Message----- > > >From: Kathleen Sayce > > >Sent: Aug 18, 2011 3:14 PM > > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > >Subject: [pbs] Rhodophialia > > > > > >did u plant directly into seed raising mix or soe on top & > > >cover with fine gravel or something ? > > > > > >I recantly planted hundreds of them before i saw they should be on top & > > >ankered but not covered or they wont grow. > > > > > >Steven, > > >I planted them on top of the soil in the pot with a layer of fine gravel > on top of that. They germinated very well, and then, every few days, the > sturdy little leaves were neatly nibbled off, clearly vole or mice-like > rather than slug-like. I put one pot inside a mesh cover I use for 50 or so > pots, to keep rodents off them, especially squirrels, and even so, that pot > gets nibbled back down every so often. They are squeezing through gaps less > than 1/2 inch wide to get inside. So I'm resorting to a finer mesh, complete > inclosure. > > >I'll probably find that they shake the entire setup to get at the > leaves. : -) > > >They leave the other leaves alone on pots in the present inclosure, > which include Pacifica iris, narcissus, moraea, etc. The Rhodophialia leaves > are their target, and must taste like candy to them. > > > > > >Kathleen > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >pbs mailing list > > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > ________________________________________ > > PeoplePC Online > > A better way to Internet > > http://www.peoplepc.com > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 103, Issue 30 > > ************************************ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat Aug 20 13:46:22 2011 Message-Id: <001b01cc5f61$0ec304f0$2c490ed0$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 10:46:13 -0700 Cool article, Tony! It's interesting to see the crosses that plant breeders attempted a hundred years ago. They tried all sorts of wide crosses that I would assume could not work, and sometimes they were successful. The author is listed as "A. Worsley." I wonder if he's Arthington Worsley, the guy that Worsleya is named after. He would have been age 40 when the article was published in 1901. Google Books is a great resource for looking up things in old publications. Mike San Jose, CA From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat Aug 20 14:45:54 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 11:45:52 -0700 I've tried twice and can't see the article. The Google books page shows a picture of the front cover and a partial table of contents, but says that no preview is available. There is a free ebook of the 1889 Gardeners' Chronicle. What should I be doing to read the article from 1901? Diane Whitehead On 19-Aug-11, at 3:49 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v > =onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic > %20crosses&f=false From Tony@plantdelights.com Sat Aug 20 14:50:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 14:50:37 -0400 Dianne: It loads fine for me. Try doing a Google search for "gardener's chronicle inter-generic crosses" and see if it downloads that way. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diane Whitehead Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 2:46 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses I've tried twice and can't see the article. The Google books page shows a picture of the front cover and a partial table of contents, but says that no preview is available. There is a free ebook of the 1889 Gardeners' Chronicle. What should I be doing to read the article from 1901? Diane Whitehead On 19-Aug-11, at 3:49 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v > =onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic > %20crosses&f=false From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Sat Aug 20 17:04:27 2011 Message-Id: <1313874263.99563.YahooMailClassic@web86308.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 22:04:23 +0100 (BST) Hi   Could this be what we are looking for?   Brian Whyer, England   http://www.bulbnrose.org/Amaryllis/Worsley1901.html --- On Sat, 20/8/11, Diane Whitehead wrote: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Saturday, 20 August, 2011, 19:45 I've tried twice and can't see the article.  The Google books page  shows a picture of the front cover and a partial table of contents,  but says that no preview is available. There is a free ebook of the 1889 Gardeners' Chronicle. What should I be doing to read the article from 1901? Diane Whitehead On 19-Aug-11, at 3:49 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v > =onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic > %20crosses&f=false From awilson@avonia.com Sat Aug 20 18:21:46 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15 Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 15:22:11 -0700 Here's a tuberous plant in bloom - Ceropegia ampliata. It's been in flower since July but I had forgotten to mention it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6063502604/lightbox/ Andrew San Diego From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat Aug 20 18:41:01 2011 Message-Id: <003f01cc5f8a$378f8560$a6ae9020$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 15:40:51 -0700 I learned a little lesson about bulb-growing this week, and wanted to pass it along. I grow about 300 pots of summer-dormant bulbs, in pots that rest on pallets on a hillside. Last winter I noticed that in some of the pots, the plants were suddenly turning yellow and dying back. I had done some Roundup spraying nearby a couple of weeks before, and I assumed I had accidentally gotten some spray on the plants. I was very mad at myself. But the problem continued to spread, with some of the pallets having more trouble than others. Finally I decided that it might be a fungus infection, so I watered the pots with fungicide. That immediately stopped the problem. But I couldn't figure out where the fungus came from. I hadn't changed the soil mix I use, or the fertilizer, and this is a problem I never had before. I wondered if maybe I had gotten a contaminated batch or perlite or something. Then this week, when I was repotting the bulbs, I noticed that underneath some of the pots the wooden pallets had dried white patches of rot on them. Although the pots are made of redwood (which resists rot) they are over ten years old and are starting to decay. Once I knew to look for it, I could see dried white patches inside some of the pots as well. I believe now that rot was starting in the wooden slats, and then spreading up into the pots, where it nailed the bulbs. Lesson learned; I am putting fiberglass sheets under the pots, and I'll also treat them with fungicide at the start of the growing season. I am also thinking about using pressure-treated lumber when I replace the pallets, but I worry that the chemicals might poison the bulbs. Any thoughts on that? Anyway, if you grow your bulbs on wooden benches or in wooden boxes, this may be something to watch out for. Mike San Jose, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Aug 20 19:22:51 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 16:22:35 -0700 Michael Mace wrote about possible effects of rotting wood underneath his bulb pots. I have always avoided using bark or other wood products in my bulb-growing mixes because I felt that the fungi that decompose the wood might also attack the tunics of the bulbs and other non-living tissue that is still important to the plants. I know some people think this is silly, but it has worked for me for many years. It's difficult to buy soil mixes that don't contain bark and sawdust. When living in the country, I had a source of excellent natural humus (admittedly, full of microorganisms) that made up a quarter of my bulb mix. Now I'm growing them in pure coarse sand with a layer of ordinary soil down below, and pea gravel on top. I do have to fertilize them several times during the growing season but they appear very healthy. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From kjblack@pacbell.net Sat Aug 20 19:22:46 2011 Message-Id: <1313882564.55444.YahooMailClassic@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: return of X Boopharyllis, was Re: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 16:22:44 -0700 (PDT) Somewhat appropriate to this thread ...   the first 3 of 6 (hopefully more) blooms of this cross between Boophone disticha and Amaryllis belladonna have returned for a sixth season of bloom.  Still getting used to a new camera so will attempt a better shot and post again tomorrow morning, but for now, here they are: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6063093007   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6063641158/in/photostream/   Ken Blackford San Diego, CA   From arnold140@verizon.net Sat Aug 20 19:45:49 2011 Message-Id: <998454266.4878255.1313883938146.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: return of X Boopharyllis, was Re: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 18:45:38 -0500 (CDT) Ken: Interesting images. What traits do you think the offspring of the cross picked up from the Boophone? Looks like mostly the Amaryllis. Arnold NJ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 20 19:51:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 23:51:27 +0000 Bark used in mixes retain excessive amounts of water for bulbs. In dry climates such as those of S and SW Australia it can not be very dangerous but in most other places of the world watering must be carefully done and drainage holes perfect. Thanks, Mike, for sharing. This was very instructive. From petersirises@gmail.com Sat Aug 20 20:03:40 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 01:03:36 +0100 Hello Michael, I would be more worried about the effects of a suspended water table in the pots, I think this is the likely cause of the fungal problems, especially if there is a problem with the roots or basal plates of the bulbs. Another good way of getting bacterial/ fungal infections in summer dormant bulbs is to get them wet and hot -as they might have been when sitting on pallets unplunged at the end of their growing cycle - when summer heat started. A suspended water table is when the compost is waterd the water is pulled to the bottom of the pot by gravity. When enough water has drained because of gravity there is a saturated layer of compost left at the bottom of the pot because there is not any more surplus water in the upper part of the pot to push it through the drainage holes. This is easily over come by not over crocing the pot (or use porous clay pots), and by putting them in sand. A simple experiment to demonstrate is to lift a sponge from a bucket of water and suspend it, after it has drained there will still be a wet layer along the bottom of the sponge, unless you provide the water with an escape rout. As to composts I avoid wood, peat and organic ingredients for dessert and scree plants such as oncocyclus and juno Iris, Fritillaria kurdica, conica and so on. I add leaf mould for cooler growing plants such as many reticulata Iris, crocus and frits such as raddeana, and eduardii, and summer growing bulbs such as Galtonia. I find the increase in moisture and food retention very beneficial for these Peter (UK). On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 12:22 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > Michael Mace wrote about possible effects of rotting wood underneath > his bulb pots. > > I have always avoided using bark or other wood products in my > bulb-growing mixes because I felt that the fungi that decompose the > wood might also attack the tunics of the bulbs and other non-living > tissue that is still important to the plants. I know some people > think this is silly, but it has worked for me for many years. > > It's difficult to buy soil mixes that don't contain bark and sawdust. > When living in the country, I had a source of excellent natural humus > (admittedly, full of microorganisms) that made up a quarter of my > bulb mix. Now I'm growing them in pure coarse sand with a layer of > ordinary soil down below, and pea gravel on top. I do have to > fertilize them several times during the growing season but they > appear very healthy. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Aug 20 21:31:51 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 01:31:50 +0000 Peter, to avoid the water table effect is that drainage holes are made at the sides of the pot, right at the bottom. This creates chimneys to provide perfect gas flow up the mix. Side holes also avoids the indesirable effects of clay pots. From Tony@plantdelights.com Sat Aug 20 22:54:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 22:54:22 -0400 Brian: Thanks for posting this! Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Brian Whyer Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 5:04 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses Hi Could this be what we are looking for? Brian Whyer, England http://www.bulbnrose.org/Amaryllis/Worsley1901.html --- On Sat, 20/8/11, Diane Whitehead wrote: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Saturday, 20 August, 2011, 19:45 I've tried twice and can't see the article. The Google books page shows a picture of the front cover and a partial table of contents, but says that no preview is available. There is a free ebook of the 1889 Gardeners' Chronicle. What should I be doing to read the article from 1901? Diane Whitehead On 19-Aug-11, at 3:49 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v > =onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic > %20crosses&f=false From kjblack@pacbell.net Sun Aug 21 00:47:44 2011 Message-Id: <1313902048.76291.YahooMailClassic@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: return of X Boopharyllis Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 21:47:28 -0700 (PDT) Hello Arnold, et al,   This cross has picked up some traits of both the seed (B.disticha) and pollen (A.belladonna) parents.  The individual florets are about 1/2 the size of A belladonna, but there are generally more florets in the umbel than in the Amaryllis ... between 30-40 ... but 1/4-1/2 the number in mother Boophone.   Here's a shot of one of the maturing blooms from last year:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6063784459/in/photostream   Unfortunately, these have proven to be sterile over the last 5 years ... at least unable to produce seed.  I have used their pollen on A.belladonna, which has resulted in seed ... but I suspect probably apomictic.   All 5, possibly six specimens (one has yet to bloom) that I have of this cross seem to form a bulb more like that of Boophone than Amaryllis ... with generally more exposure above the ground, tapering to a more pointed tip like Boophone.  The winter-growing foliage is more like that of Amaryllis, but puts forth a distichous pattern mid-way between Boophone and Amaryllis, with a few leaves askew.   Three of the original six bulbs have split ... one into 3 bulbs, another into two.  The bulb which has never bloomed has spit into 5 bulbs.    Ken Blackford San Diego       From: arnold140@verizon.net Ken: Interesting images. What traits do you think the offspring of the cross picked up from the Boophone? Looks like mostly the Amaryllis. Arnold NJ From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 21 03:21:24 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 08:21:22 +0100 Alberto, I quite agree that side holes will assist in air circulation in the compost.However holes at the bottom of a pot will not prevent the water table effect, whether or not they are in the sides, unless the compost is in contact with a medium which will draw excess water from it, via capilliary action. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 2:31 AM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Peter, to avoid the water table effect is that drainage holes are made at > the sides of the pot, right at the bottom. This creates chimneys to provide > perfect gas flow up the mix. Side holes also avoids the indesirable effects > of clay pots. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Sun Aug 21 05:22:22 2011 Message-Id: <1313918540.59458.YahooMailClassic@web86307.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 10:22:20 +0100 (BST) New members of PBS may want to read Paul Cumbleton's contribution from just a few years ago, on Perched Water Tables and drainage.   http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2007-February/016272.html   I am sure I have lost more bulbs, and plants in general, since using composted bark as a peat replacement. I am now using much more Perlite, or clay cat litter which is less offensive, but not very "green" I guess.   Brian Whyer, England From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Sun Aug 21 05:43:11 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: flowering plants Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:43:03 +0200 Hallo plantlovers Here is a link to my Facebook. I have uploaded some photo's. Who is interested. Yesterday I have made a photo of the Paramongaia weberaueri. A very big flower and what a smell. http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2157313026345.116338.1652092139 &saved#!/profile.php?id=1652092139 enjoy, who is interested Kind regards and have a nice weekend Ton Wijnen The Netherlands From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 21 07:48:05 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Intergeneric crosses Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 12:48:01 +0100 Thanks Brian On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 3:54 AM, Tony Avent wrote: > Brian: > > Thanks for posting this! > > Tony Avent > Plant Delights Nursery @ > Juniper Level Botanic Garden > 9241 Sauls Road > Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F > Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F > USDA Hardiness Zone 7b > email tony@plantdelights.com > website http://www.plantdelights.com > phone 919 772-4794 > fax 919 772-4752 > "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least > three times" - Avent > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Brian Whyer > Sent: Saturday, August 20, 2011 5:04 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses > > Hi > > Could this be what we are looking for? > > Brian Whyer, England > > http://www.bulbnrose.org/Amaryllis/Worsley1901.html > > --- On Sat, 20/8/11, Diane Whitehead wrote: > > > From: Diane Whitehead > Subject: Re: [pbs] Intergeneric crosses > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Date: Saturday, 20 August, 2011, 19:45 > > > I've tried twice and can't see the article. The Google books page > shows a picture of the front cover and a partial table of contents, > but says that no preview is available. > > There is a free ebook of the 1889 Gardeners' Chronicle. > > What should I be doing to read the article from 1901? > > Diane Whitehead > > > On 19-Aug-11, at 3:49 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > > > > > http://books.google.com/books?id=4_cWAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA112&lpg=PA112&dq=the+gardeners+chronicle+inter-generic+crosses&source=bl&ots=EXcQ7iUo-D&sig=pI8zt8rpOsxdZCvosexpr-e2390&hl=en&ei=9udOTpqdDsi70AG0iYysBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBgQ6AEwAA#v > > =onepage&q=the%20gardeners%20chronicle%20inter-generic > > %20crosses&f=false > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Sun Aug 21 08:15:49 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:15:47 +0100 your advice fits with my experiences re Tropaeoleum Alberto, though I admit it is not a genus I grow well Peter On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:25 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Well, the million dollar question. If you force it back into dormancy, no > guarantee it will resprout or even live. > > If my decision, I'd start watering but keep the pot out of direct sunshine > (but in strong indirect light) until cooler weather sets sin. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jaswayne@charter.net Sun Aug 21 11:40:59 2011 Message-Id: From: James Swayne Subject: Intergenetic crosses/ google Books Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 08:32:30 -0700 You should be able to read the Google books text is several ways, the best is to use the "Plain text" option. Here is a copy of what I assume you are interested in: :HYBRIDISATION In AMARYLLE2E. {Concluded from p. 00.) Attempts At Raising Inter-specific Hybrids At Isleworth.—A bare record of the few successes that have attended efforts at hybridisation give no idea of the totality of effort required to produce even such meagre results. I have therefore tabulated a few of the crosses which I have attempted, and which were registered at the time. These do not represent one half of the attempts I have made, because no register was kept, except in cases in which the swelling fruit gave promise of seed, and in hundreds of cases this did not occur. I have also practically eliminated the huge record of generic crosses attempted, none of which have, up to the present succeeded beyond possibility. of dispute. I have defined for these purposes "a species" to be o collection oj individuals branny evidence of a common parentage, in which all the important and easily recognisable attributes of the inflorescence and seeds are fixed, and which reproduce such characters in their seed progeny. Variations in the leaves or in the colour or markings of the flowers constitute varieties. A specific hybrid, therefore, in my view, must differ specifically from the female parent. A varietal divergence is not enough to prove hybridisation, as self-fertilised seedlings of many true species will show varietal divergence from the type in perhaps one per cent, to live per cent, of the seedlings. In many cases where seeds have been raised after attempted hybridisation, sufficient time has not elapsed for them to flower; in other cases they have flowered and shown no specific divergence from the female type. In the former case Small Capitals indicate the supposed male parent: in the latter case italics are used in the subjoined tabular matter; and ordinary type indicates that no fertile seed was formed. The total of results gives 159 registered attempts) of which 146 are absolute failures, and thirteen possible successes. Of these thirteen, I had hopes of success in three cases, and have undoubtedly succeeded in one case. On this analysis it would appear, on the one hand; that the chances of really effecting hybridisation is at the most not more than about two per cent., perhaps not more than 0'6 per cent. ; and, by including unregistered attempts, these figures would be halved. On the other hand, it should not be overlooked that my object throughout was Dot to register the correct percentage of possible hybrids between all the species in any genus, but rather to raise hybrids between species so far removed from each other as to make any offspring possess horticultural merit. In short, my aim was to do the difficult thing rather than the obvious. i ... 111-. A Few Inter-generic Crosses Attempted. Vallota x Gastronema samjuineum (died after germination). Spbekelia x Hippeahtrum. Sprekelia x H. rutilum (2), x H. equestre (2). x H. procerum (discontinued efforts, M plant never carries seeds with me. It is recorded to have once carried seed in Col. Trevor Clarke's garden). Brunsvigia Josephines x Faliota (died after germination). Amaryllis x Lycobis Squamigera (3). Inter-Specific Fertilisation!. Hippeastrum, Zephyranthes, And Sprekelia. H. rntilom x equestre (2), x Sprekelia (4), x vittatum (died), x Z, brachyandrum, x SolanDriflorum (2). (Rutilum carries seed freely on its own or mongrel pollen.) H. procerum x aulicum (2), x Sprekelia (carries •eed on its own pollen). H. equestre x rutilum x Sprekelia (2), x vittatum x solandriSorum x Z. Anderioni (carries seed freely with mongrel pollen). H. regiras x Bolandriflorum x Z. brachyandra. H. stylosnm x Solandriflorum. H. tricholepis x vittatum (2), x rutilum > Sprekelia. H. vittatum x Equestre X Z. Candida (seeds freely on its own pollen). H. organense • 7, brachyandra. H. aulicum x Vittatum (4), x Z Candida ('2), x rutilum x procerum (2), (seeds freely on its own or mongrel pollen). Eabranthus advenum < Hip. aulicum (never set seed). Crinums. C. Moorei x scabrum x odorum (13), x fimbriatulum (3), x Campanulatum X zeylanicum x amabile (8) (seeds freely on its own pollen. C. scabrum < Moorei (hybrid raised) (seeds on its own pollen). C. odorum x Moorei (23), (never carries reed). C. amabile x Moorei (3), x giganteum (2). C. fimbriatulum ■ Moorei (2). C. giganteum x zeylanicum (5), x odorum (4), x Moorei (2), x amabile (3). C. zeylanicum x giganteum x Moorei ('2), (never seeds with me). C. purpurascens x Moorei (6), > amabile x giganteum (never seeds). Pancratia. Ismene calathina x Elisena. Elisena x Calathina X Moritziana (3). Hymenocallis specioea x calathina. Euoharis Lehmanni x Orandiflora (seeds freely on its own pollen). E. Sanderi x Lehmanni (S), (never seeds). Zephyranthes. Zephyranthes brachyandra x H. rutilum, x H. aulicum (2), x Hippeastrum tp. (2), x Sprekelia (2), x Z. Candida (2), x Placea Ornata (4), x Lycoris Squamigera. Z. rosea x H. aulicum x H. reginte (2), (seeds on its own pollen). Z. carinata x H. anlicnm (never seeds). Z. gracifolia x H. vittatum (seeds on its own pollen). Note.—The figures in parentheses show the number of times that particular cross was attempted. A. Worthy, Jan., 1901. Jim Swayne 4009 Old Milton Hwy Walla Walla, WA 99362-7194 From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun Aug 21 12:07:02 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 09:07:01 -0700 Hi Mike, As a person who studies fungi, I have some input on what you may have observed. The wood decay fungi which you have seen as white filaments on the wood tend to be more specific in eating just wood. They are very good at decaying wood, but they also need water and other nutrients. So to do this they send out thick cords (called rhizomorphs) in search of nutrients and water. Of course the best place to get this is inside your pots which remain more moist, complete with some delectable nitrogen. This is why you're seeing the white rhizomorphs inside of the pot. I have pots that have grown very thickly with white fungi but the bulb/corms remains perfectly fine. This is not to say that the fungi you have didn't cause issues for your bulbs, but generally, it's the fungi that you cannot see that you should be worried about. Those are the ones that specifically grow within living plant tissue and cause their demise. Most of the time you can't even see them until the plant has already suffered. Nhu On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 3:40 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > I believe now that > rot was starting in the wooden slats, and then spreading up into the pots, > where it nailed the bulbs. > From kjblack@pacbell.net Sun Aug 21 13:29:41 2011 Message-Id: <1313947780.72199.YahooMailClassic@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 10:29:40 -0700 (PDT) Greetings,   I found 3 of my seed grown Haemanthus coccineus blooming this morning ...   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065926222/in/photostream   I am a bit disheartened at the size and color (too orangy) of this and its two siblings.  Their foliage last winter was as impressive (4-6" wide X almost 18" long) as their mother's, but the mother bulbs produced larger, more reddish blooms.  I am thinking perhaps because these seedlings receive considerably more summer sun ... 1/2 day ... perhaps too much?  The mother bulbs are in fairly heavy shade.   I was also excited to find scapes emerging on 2 of my Brunsvigia josephinae bulbs (almost 2 full weeks earlier than normal, for me.)  Both bulbs are 16 years old.  This will be the first bloom for one bulb and the seventh consecutive for the other.  Should be in full bloom in about 10 days.   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065330611/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065330611/in/photostream   Many of my Amaryllis belladonnas and Amarygias are now in full bloom.  I think I have posted the following one before ... which has heavy, waxy and ruffled petals, and is one of my favorites:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065685997/in/photostream   finally ... a little progress on the scape of Brunsvigia litoralis posted last week.  Still not in bloom yet but hopefully in a couple more days:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6066230620/in/photostream   Ken Blackford San Diego       From awilson@avonia.com Sun Aug 21 13:59:49 2011 Message-Id: <0BB0A347912C489380AEF24B0C656D64@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 11:00:15 -0700 Thanks for showing these Haemanthus. Busy days for you right now! Andrew San Diego Greetings,   I found 3 of my seed grown Haemanthus coccineus blooming this morning ...   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065926222/in/photostream   I am a bit disheartened at the size and color (too orangy) of this and its two siblings.  Their foliage last winter was as impressive (4-6" wide X almost 18" long) as their mother's, but the mother bulbs produced larger, more reddish blooms.  I am thinking perhaps because these seedlings receive considerably more summer sun ... 1/2 day ... perhaps too much?  The mother bulbs are in fairly heavy shade.   I was also excited to find scapes emerging on 2 of my Brunsvigia josephinae bulbs (almost 2 full weeks earlier than normal, for me.)  Both bulbs are 16 years old.  This will be the first bloom for one bulb and the seventh consecutive for the other.  Should be in full bloom in about 10 days.   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065330611/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065330611/in/photostream   Many of my Amaryllis belladonnas and Amarygias are now in full bloom.  I think I have posted the following one before ... which has heavy, waxy and ruffled petals, and is one of my favorites:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6065685997/in/photostream   finally ... a little progress on the scape of Brunsvigia litoralis posted last week.  Still not in bloom yet but hopefully in a couple more days:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6066230620/in/photostream   Ken Blackford San Diego   From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun Aug 21 22:20:30 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 19:20:26 -0700 Hi Mike, when i was working in a wholesale nursery long ago, i saw this > sort of problem many times. I did some courses on root rots & collar rots > etc when we started loosing many thousands of plants literally over night. > Growing on wood "especially soft wood & some pine" was a problem for us too > & it was highly recommended not too, due to its moisture retention > properties & not so much the wood causing fungus or disease its self, but > making disease much more readily transferable from pot to pot. Just as a matter of interest, i always learned never to use soft woods or horse manure in mixes, because they both easily carry root rot. But i actually use a fine semi composted mixed hard & soft wood blend in all mixes now days & i add it to my raised, spoon drained, growing beds at 30 to 50% to any garden soil at regular intervals to help airate the mix & the worm populations explode along with heaps of fungal & bacterial growth, It is also a good environmental choice, due to its high ability to carbon store for long periods, i have never had rot problems even in the soggiest weather in sub tropical Queensland. Best of luck ! Steven > On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 3:40 PM, Michael Mace >wrote: > > > I believe now that > > rot was starting in the wooden slats, and then spreading up into the > pots, > > where it nailed the bulbs. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Aug 21 23:20:55 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:20:48 -0500 Dear Friends, PBS is closing the PBS Market Place effective immediately. Ellen Hornig has been the generous host of the PBS Market Place for a trial period, but due to changes in family circumstances she will to be relocating to Massachusetts. She has to close the internet hosting site for us. Interest in the independent commercial PBS Market Place has not really met our expectations. Few people have made use of this service. The Officers and Board of Directors are very grateful to Ellen for her generous offer to host the site, provide a free location and tend to daily problems. We want to thank her for her independent generosity and good nature through the trial. We all wish her the best with her move and new situation. We hope when she is relocated she will rejoin the elist and continue to contribute as she has in the past. Thanks very much for all you have done for PBS, Ellen. For those of you who used and tried the PBS Market Place, we appreciate your participation. Should the prospect for a commercial site find a need, we would gladly entertain a new plan. Meanwhile thanks for working with this trial. We remain open to trying new venues and services to the list and PBS membership. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 22 00:15:22 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15 Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:29:56 -0500 >Here's a tuberous plant in bloom - Ceropegia ampliata. It's been in flower >since July but I had forgotten to mention it. >http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6063502604/lightbox/ > Dear Andrew, Thanks for the pic and reminding us the broad nature of tuberous plants. We don't talk much about Ceropegia. MyC. woodii has been blooming for a while too. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon Aug 22 02:25:38 2011 Message-Id: <009101cc6094$4a7d3e50$df77baf0$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 23:25:29 -0700 Thanks for all the feedback, everybody! I understand about perched water tables, and that's definitely something to watch out for. But as I've been growing bulbs for fifteen years and never had this problem before, it's difficult to figure out why it would start now. I didn't change anything. Maybe some fungus spores just happen to have blown in, but for now I think my prime suspect is the rotting wood. We'll see. If the fiberglass sheets solve the problem, I think I'll have my proof. Thanks, Mike San Jose, CA From Santoury@aol.com Mon Aug 22 07:27:16 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2ED58CF4A7FE-1410-984B@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 07:27:03 -0400 Good morning - Where in Mass ? Thanks for the effort, and all the work you've been doing, everyone! Jude From hornig@earthlink.net Mon Aug 22 08:20:41 2011 Message-Id: <4F3846F4E2A34D3D9CCC30AF2375E319@ellenPC> From: "Ellen Hornig" Subject: PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 08:20:59 -0400 Hi, Jude - I'm still looking for a house, somewhere between Boylston and Grafton. The move is not, therefore, imminent, but there's a great deal to do to get ready! Ellen ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Silent Seed" To: Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 7:27 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished > > > > > > Good morning - Where in Mass ? > Thanks for the effort, and all the work you've been doing, everyone! > Jude > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Mon Aug 22 09:09:49 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2EE3E0B52098-19E4-7E116@webmail-d149.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:09:36 -0400 Best of luck! And that general area gets much worse winters than nearer to the coast, if that matters to you - but yes, I'm sure there's a whole lot to do in the meantime. Where will you be moving from? Are you taking your plants ? :) Jude From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Aug 22 09:44:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 13:44:28 +0000 No doubt the problem originated in the rotting wood environment but things will be different if you place your plants on a plastic sheets a compared to the previous much more heat insulating wood. From markus.breier@gmx.de Mon Aug 22 13:43:35 2011 Message-Id: <3BBA23E84111413E88A89CDD26ADA09A@fambreier> From: "Markus Breier" Subject: WG: Russian Allium - which species? Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 19:43:33 +0200 Is there anybody who knows about that Allium? Best Wishes Markus Breier -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Im Auftrag von Markus Breier Gesendet: Mittwoch, 17. August 2011 19:35 An: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Betreff: [pbs] Russian Allium - which species? Dear pbs-members, Today I got an Allium I cannot identify. Somebody brought it from Russia, where it grows in her grandmothers garden. - No idea, where it is from originally. Here a short description: Leafs about 30-40 cm high, 2,5 cm broad, thin (like A. ampeloprasum) Inflorescence higher, also with small offset bulbs Flowers rose The rhizome divides after each florescence. Picture of the flower: http://hs1.abload.de/img/brutzwiebelnqsjj.jpg Picture of the plant with offset bulbs (left side, on the right for comparison: A. senescens and A. senescens var glaucum): http://forum.garten-pur.de/attachments/allium_russisch.jpg Who has a hint? Which species might that be? Best Wishes Markus Breier USDA 6b Bavaria, Southern Germany where autumn slowly enters the garden From jshields@indy.net Mon Aug 22 14:32:48 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110822142547.0634cd90@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:32:53 -0400 Some more Lycoris are blooming now. L. sprengeri is now in full bloom, as are a couple of hybrids. They are pictured at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/index.html#aug22.11 (permanent link: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/201108.html#e2 ) I also have bud about ready to open on Haemanthus albiflos, which can be seen at: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6891.msg212247#msg212247 and there are buds showing in the greenhouse on Haemanthus namaquensis, barkerae, and pubescens pubescens. Jim S. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From Theladygardens@aol.com Mon Aug 22 14:57:47 2011 Message-Id: <6e5f7.62ae959b.3b8400a7@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: PBS Market Place - Gone - CLOSED - Finished Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:57:43 -0400 (EDT) Ellen, Thanks so much for all of the time and work you put in for PBS. AND, the best of luck on your move, may it go as smooth as any move could possibly go with lots of new friends and good experiences at the other end. Carolyn Craft From petersirises@gmail.com Mon Aug 22 15:21:07 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Russian Allium - which species? Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 20:21:00 +0100 Hello Markus, Could this be your Allium? I am sorry but the picture has all the information I have. Apologies for the poor pictures but it was getting dark. Peter (UK) http://www.flickr.com/photos/66380714@N06/6070640394/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/66380714@N06/6070092765/in/photostream/ On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 6:35 PM, Markus Breier wrote: > Dear pbs-members, > > Today I got an Allium I cannot identify. > Somebody brought it from Russia, where it grows in her grandmothers garden. > - No idea, where it is from originally. > From Tony@plantdelights.com Mon Aug 22 15:37:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: lycoris Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 15:36:24 -0400 Jim: Thanks for sharing your great work with lycoris. We've just updated and added a number of new images to our lycoris gallery as well at http://gallery.plantdelights.com/Lycoris-Surprise-Lilies We welcome any comments or corrections! Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of J.E. Shields Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 2:33 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Some more Lycoris are blooming now. L. sprengeri is now in full bloom, as are a couple of hybrids. They are pictured at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/index.html#aug22.11 (permanent link: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/201108.html#e2 ) I also have bud about ready to open on Haemanthus albiflos, which can be seen at: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6891.msg212247#msg212247 and there are buds showing in the greenhouse on Haemanthus namaquensis, barkerae, and pubescens pubescens. Jim S. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Aug 22 20:36:50 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:39:59 -0500 >Some more Lycoris are blooming now. L. sprengeri is now in full bloom, Dear Friends, Like Jim S, my Lycoris are going strong again. Still have L. squamigera, longituba, chinensis and sprengeri. L. anhuiensis got blown over in the same storm that knocked me off line all weekend. DARN!! Various hybrids abound, too. New this week are L. incarnata and a strange pale orange/tangerine beauty pictured at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LycorisHybrids This is so unlike anything else I grow. And the first shoots are showing of L. caldwellii, the last of the spring foliage types. IF any of the fall foliage species manage to bloom I expect L radiata in a week or two, maybe others. Generally these do not do very well here. Noticed a few blooms in a pot of Habreanthus martinezii from an older PBS Bulb offer, I think. Pale pink and like a mini Lycoris. We've had enough rain this week to bring flowers to pots of Zephyranthes candida, citrina and a couple others. None of the rain lilies are hardy here. And a few late Crinum linger on. Their gigantic 6 foot plus long foliage is a wonder of the temperate garden. Wow. Off topic: last night brought the first flower of the huge night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus). Over 10 in across, pure white and about as exotic as any flower gets. Dazzling and worth staying up late to see in all its glory. See what next week brings - more excitement. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From petersirises@gmail.com Mon Aug 22 15:53:33 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Russian Allium - which species? Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 20:53:18 +0100 Markus, I think the flower head and stem on yours is different to mine To make a guess my allium is A nutans but I would be happy if any one could correct this as I'm not sure that it's distribution would fit for Kazakhstan > > > From sgage4@eq.edu.au Mon Aug 22 16:39:33 2011 Message-Id: <76d0bbd0bf0c.4e534b22@eq.edu.au> From: Shelley GAGE Subject: Trip to Brazil Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 06:39:30 +1000 Dear Jane and others, I have a 9 hour stop in Santiago, Chile from 12:15pm till 10:50 pm on 22nd Sept on my way home from Brazil. You mentioned a very good bookshop for plant books. Where is it? Also are there any gardens you have been to that you would recommend I visit? I imagine you will have already started your trek north by then. I hope I will see you when you come to Queensland to see the birds of which we have a large variety. Your idea of sharing accommodation across countries sounds great. Count me in. If I have enough notice to get leave from work I would be only too happy to show off our beautiful part of the world to fellow 'plant people' and follow it up with a trip to the North America. Have a great trip and I look forward to hearing about it through the forum. Shelley Gage From awilson@avonia.com Mon Aug 22 17:13:04 2011 Message-Id: <5A109710C3C7420ABF53A9EFEBA1AC58@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:14:17 -0700 Dear Jim, The ceropegias are quite numerous. Some day the genus will end up in the wiki. But, that'a big undertaking. I know of nobody who has the breadth of experience to undertake it. Do you? Andrew San Diego >Here's a tuberous plant in bloom - Ceropegia ampliata. It's been in >flower since July but I had forgotten to mention it. >http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6063502604/lightbox/ > Dear Andrew, Thanks for the pic and reminding us the broad nature of tuberous plants. We don't talk much about Ceropegia. MyC. woodii has been blooming for a while too. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon Aug 22 17:39:57 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 14:39:52 -0700 Hi Andrew, Thanks for sharing. I had no idea that this species is tuberous. The wiki is always a work in progress. You can just start with one species that you know, like C. ampliata, and someone else will add others. Currently we have some genera with just one species and one day someone will come along and fill in more. Nhu On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 3:22 PM, AW wrote: > Here's a tuberous plant in bloom - Ceropegia ampliata. It's been in flower > since July but I had forgotten to mention it. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6063502604/lightbox/ > From awilson@avonia.com Mon Aug 22 18:52:43 2011 Message-Id: <04A52746811D4E73BC05A3437A4BC649@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming - Week of August 15 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 15:53:27 -0700 Nhu, Hi! I understand that, but I am the type of person who prefers to have an general grasp of a topic, even if there are missing gaps, rather than start on one corner of it without knowing what's at the far end. With Ceropegia I have grown only a few species of these amazing plants (those which my climate will permit) and am not at the point of discoursing upon them. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Nhu Nguyen Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 2:40 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming - Week of August 15 Hi Andrew, Thanks for sharing. I had no idea that this species is tuberous. The wiki is always a work in progress. You can just start with one species that you know, like C. ampliata, and someone else will add others. Currently we have some genera with just one species and one day someone will come along and fill in more. Nhu On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 3:22 PM, AW wrote: > Here's a tuberous plant in bloom - Ceropegia ampliata. It's been in > flower since July but I had forgotten to mention it. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6063502604/lightbox/ > From markus.breier@gmx.de Mon Aug 22 20:11:49 2011 Message-Id: From: "Markus Breier" Subject: Russian Allium - which species? Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 02:11:53 +0200 Peter, thank you! It really seems to be Allium nutans, a quite variable species and there are broad-leafed forms in cultivation, too. It has a wide range: Altai, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and Russia. Yours might be this species, too. Here is a description in the flora of China: http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=2&taxon_id=200027507 Thanks and best Wishes Markus -----Ursprüngliche Nachricht----- Von: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Im Auftrag von Peter Taggart Gesendet: Montag, 22. August 2011 21:53 An: Pacific Bulb Society Betreff: Re: [pbs] Russian Allium - which species? Markus, I think the flower head and stem on yours is different to mine To make a guess my allium is A nutans but I would be happy if any one could correct this as I'm not sure that it's distribution would fit for Kazakhstan > > > From robin@no1bird.com Mon Aug 22 21:22:04 2011 Message-Id: <0764C0EFD27C4A5EA8E7B685996D2A7B@RobinPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 21:22:02 -0400 these are blooming NOW? -------------------------------------------------- From: "James Waddick" Sent: Monday, August 22, 2011 3:39 PM To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: [pbs] What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 >>Some more Lycoris are blooming now. L. sprengeri is now in full bloom, > > Dear Friends, > Like Jim S, my Lycoris are going strong again. Still have L. > squamigera, longituba, chinensis and sprengeri. L. anhuiensis got > blown over in the same storm that knocked me off line all weekend. > DARN!! Various hybrids abound, too. > > New this week are L. incarnata and a strange pale > orange/tangerine beauty pictured at > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LycorisHybrids > This is so unlike anything else I grow. > > And the first shoots are showing of L. caldwellii, the last > of the spring foliage types. > > IF any of the fall foliage species manage to bloom I expect L > radiata in a week or two, maybe others. Generally these do not do > very well here. > > Noticed a few blooms in a pot of Habreanthus martinezii from > an older PBS Bulb offer, I think. Pale pink and like a mini Lycoris. > > We've had enough rain this week to bring flowers to pots of > Zephyranthes candida, citrina and a couple others. None of the rain > lilies are hardy here. > > And a few late Crinum linger on. Their gigantic 6 foot plus > long foliage is a wonder of the temperate garden. Wow. > > Off topic: last night brought the first flower of the huge > night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus). Over 10 in across, pure > white and about as exotic as any flower gets. Dazzling and worth > staying up late to see in all its glory. > > See what next week brings - more excitement. Best > Jim > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue Aug 23 00:03:37 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 22:47:53 -0500 these are blooming NOW? Dear Robin and all Yes as given for this week. More Lycoris to come. Best Jim Subject: [pbs] What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 In Kansas City L. squamigera, longituba, chinensis sprengeri. L. anhuiensis L. incarnata and a strange pale orange/tangerine beauty L. caldwellii starting up Habreanthus martinezii Zephyranthes candida, citrina and a couple others. Late Crinum -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From maxwithers@gmail.com Tue Aug 23 00:09:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Max Withers Subject: Tropaeolum advice, was What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 21:09:28 -0700 Thank you Peter and Alberto (and Jane and Nhu earlier) for all your Tropaeolum advice. I wonder if the residual moisture in the bagged pumice used in the soil mix initiated growth? I have put them out in the shade and watered as you suggested. Luckily it has been a very cool summer so far, rarely exceeding 70 degrees F (sorry [US] east coasters!). I am experimenting with these and some other bulbs this year in fabric pots, I will report back if I learn anything interesting. Though I am now regretting my use of fir bark in the mix! A link to one brand of these pots: http://www.smartpots.com/ They are readily available in the US on the internet and at "hydroponic" i.e., marijuana-growers' stores. Best, Max Oakland CA > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 13:15:47 +0100 > From: Peter Taggart > Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming - Week of August 15, 2010 > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > your advice fits with my experiences re Tropaeoleum Alberto, though I admit > it is not a genus I grow well > Peter > > On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 1:25 PM, Alberto Castillo < > ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com > > wrote: > > > > > Well, the million dollar question. If you force it back into dormancy, no > > guarantee it will resprout or even live. > > > > If my decision, I'd start watering but keep the pot out of direct > sunshine > > (but in strong indirect light) until cooler weather sets sin. > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue Aug 23 01:56:56 2011 Message-Id: <00c501cc6159$72613aa0$5723afe0$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 22:56:47 -0700 Wow! Thanks for all the information, folks! This is a fascinating list. At this point I have no clue what might have caused the problem, so I'll experiment. Some of the pots will go on fiberglass, and some will stay on the wood, and I'll see what happens. I'll let you know if I learn anything. Mike From petersirises@gmail.com Tue Aug 23 03:45:52 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Bulb-growing and wood Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 08:45:51 +0100 Try some on a bed of coarse sand Mike On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 6:56 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > > ...so I'll > experiment. Some of the pots will go on fiberglass, and some will stay on > the wood > From petersirises@gmail.com Tue Aug 23 04:39:49 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Russian Allium - A nutans? / rhizomatous alliums in flower now Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 09:39:47 +0100 My plant is much more attractive untill the frame drys out in June, and the leaves are quite like yours then Markus, but it would be good to have a couple of other really distinct forms. A senscens glaucophyllum and A senscens montanum are still flowering here and so is A angulosum in a really deep mauve. This Allium 'nutans' I have reminds me of what I have as A plummerae, an american species , the leaves are strongly keeled so as to be almost triangular in cross section, but the flowers are pink not white as in the wiki. Peter (UK) On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 1:11 AM, Markus Breier wrote: > Peter, thank you! > > It really seems to be Allium nutans, a quite variable species and there are > broad-leafed forms in cultivation, too. > From arnold140@verizon.net Tue Aug 23 12:04:30 2011 Message-Id: <11894861.2079987.1314115413355.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: test Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:03:33 -0500 (CDT) From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 23 12:07:48 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2FC5DA947CEB-1DF0-8EE7A@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: test Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:07:12 -0400 Got it From arnold140@verizon.net Tue Aug 23 12:17:32 2011 Message-Id: <16937253.2081372.1314116237591.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Thanks Jude. A new Verizon email client wipes away my messages. Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:17:17 -0500 (CDT) From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 23 12:25:01 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2FC84AEB8794-1DF0-8F3C7@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Thanks Jude. A new Verizon email client wipes away my messages. Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:24:40 -0400 Gotta love when things like that happen! Keep us posted! Jude From Santoury@aol.com Tue Aug 23 12:25:39 2011 Message-Id: <8CE2FC86502E4CA-1DF0-8F3F9@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Thanks Jude. A new Verizon email client wipes away my messages. Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 12:25:24 -0400 (PS, just FYI, there was nothing in that email- just in the subject line, in case you wrote something and tried something new.) Jude From arnold140@verizon.net Tue Aug 23 12:48:02 2011 Message-Id: <28909454.2085003.1314118067926.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: No ability to send plain txt messages through new Verizon email client..Hmmmm Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:47:47 -0500 (CDT) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 23 19:07:18 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110823134708.0369ced8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: No ability to send plain txt messages through new Verizon email client..Hmmmm Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 13:47:51 -0400 Arnold, I suggest you get a Gmail account just as an emergency solution. This would kill me! Jim At 11:47 AM 8/23/2011 -0500, you wrote: >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 23 20:07:19 2011 Message-Id: <1314125848.61308.YahooMailClassic@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: what's bloom the week of Aug 21st ... another Boopharyllis Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:57:28 -0700 (PDT) Just a couple shots of one of the five blooming 'Boopharyllis' bulbs ... Boophone disticha X Amaryllis belladonna.  The individual florets on this one have somewhat more narrow petals ... which I've decided I like better than the others.  First shot taken just before sunset:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6072134316/in/photostream   and this second shot, same bloom, right after the sun dipped below the hillside:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6072133110/in/photostream   Ken Blackford San Diego, CA From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 00:22:04 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: what's bloom the week of Aug 21st ... another Boopharyllis Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 16:15:10 -0700 Gee Ken, i'd like to be a fly on the wall in your garden ! I am very interested in belladonna boophone, crinum or brunsvegia crosses. So thank u for sharing your photos...... This year i tried to cross a SE Queensland white crinum flaccidum x pale belladonna & also flaccidum x crinum moreii, i hand pollinated daily but did not get any seeds at all. I will try again this summer......They would be pretty & unusual new crosses if i succeed. Do your crosses, grow & produce viable seed with similar traits to the initial cross ? Do u or perhaps someone else, have any tips as to why i might not have been successful so far ? Thank u Steven On Tue, Aug 23, 2011 at 11:57 AM, Ken wrote: > Just a couple shots of one of the five blooming 'Boopharyllis' bulbs ... > Boophone disticha X Amaryllis belladonna. > Ken Blackford > San Diego, CA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 11:30:01 2011 Message-Id: <1314147374.42517.YahooMailClassic@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: what's bloom the week of Aug 21st ... another Boopharyllis Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 17:56:14 -0700 (PDT) Hi Steven,   Thank you and good luck with your attempted crosses!  There are several folks on this list with considerably more knowlege and expertise in the area of intergeneric breeding than myself ... I think Jim Lykos has posted more scientific results from his own Amarygia crosses on the WIKI.   As far as my own blooming X 'Boopharyllis' crosses, dumb luck was definitely on the side of this naive hobbiest when my own attempts successfully produced seed back in June, 2000 ... on a newly purchased winter-growing Boophone disticha bulb, using fresh pollen from an abnormally early-blooming 'ordinary' Amaryllis belladonna.    I think part of my luck is due to the fact that June is a cool month here in coastal San Diego ... with early morning temps in the upper 50s to low 60s F, rarely adding more than 10F degrees as the day progresses.  I also diligently made multiple attempts at pollination early in the morning over several days,  when temperatures were at their coolest and humidity highest (perhaps 60-70%.)  Richard Doubt in his book 'Cape Bulbs' (1994, Timber Press) indicated that cooler temps might aid in successful cross-fertilization of closely related genera.   I have never been able to get seed to set on these X 'Boopharyllis' ... despite many attempts to self them, pollinate them with their sibling bulb's pollen, or that of fresh A.belladonna and Amarygia pollen or saved (frozen) Brunsvigia josephinae pollen ... though I will keep trying!  I suspect they are sterile.    I have gotten seed on A.belladonna and X Amarygias using X 'Boopharyllis' pollen, but the resultant plants have yet to bloom and their foliage appears identical to that of their mothers.  I am hopeful for first flowering next year and that bloom morphology may indicate some success, but I suspect apomixis.   I've also gotten smaller, abnormal looking seed off Boophone disticha using Brunsvigia josephinae pollen.  A few of these germinated but did not grow well and quickly succumbed despite my best amature efforts to keep them going.   I've also had apparent success crossing X Amarygia with Crinum moorei pollen ... although these have yet to bloom for me.  Their foliage is evergreen (with water) and similar to that of 'Crinadonna'/'Amarcrinum' bulbs which I purchased at and which are generally available yearly, at my local commercial nursery.  My excitement over these is muted a bit since this is evidently a common cross ... but I do like their reblooming cycles from June through November.  Most years I have at least a few of these plants blooming at all times during that entire period.     All of my X Amarygias seem to be quite fertile and produce seed.   Ken Blackford San Diego  From: steven hart hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com I am very interested in belladonna boophone, crinum or brunsvegia crosses. So thank u for sharing your photos...... This year i tried to cross a SE Queensland white crinum flaccidum x pale belladonna & also flaccidum x crinum moreii, i hand pollinated daily but did not get any seeds at all. I will try again this summer......They would be pretty & unusual new crosses if i succeed. Do your crosses, grow & produce viable seed with similar traits to the initial cross ? Do u or perhaps someone else, have any tips as to why i might not have been successful so far ? Thank u Steven From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 11:30:06 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: what's bloom the week of Aug 21st ... another Boopharyllis Date: Tue, 23 Aug 2011 22:09:14 -0700 Thank u Ken Very inspiring, I'll do some more reaserch & out comes the pollen brush this summer ! Steven > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 11:30:07 2011 Message-Id: From: WuAnswer Subject: hi, Jim of Shieldgardens, I really need your help Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 05:44:44 +0000 Hi, Jim, sorry for I submit my postage here because I sent you emails to jim@shieldgardens.com but always got a Postmaster. I really need your help about hippeastrum. If you see my massage, could you contact me throuhg your other email that I can send out my email easily? My email address is loveseastory@yahoo.com. Waiting for your reply hopefully. Best regards. Stephen From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 11:30:08 2011 Message-Id: From: WuAnswer Subject: Hippeastrum iguazuanum & teyucuarense cultivation Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 05:58:58 +0000 Hi, Josh, Congratulations. These two species are too rare to collect.I t's really difficult to find some useful information about their cultivation on Internet. But I remember someone of Argentina on Ebay sold H.iguazuanum seeds and bulbs. Maybe you could ask him for help. Stephen From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 13:15:03 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Hippeastrum iguazuanum & teyucuarense cultivation Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:05:13 +0000 Hi, Stephen, yes, because both grow in National Parks and it is a real danger to plunder them there. Do you remember when they were offered on Ebay? From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 13:30:03 2011 Message-Id: From: WuAnswer Subject: Hippeastrum iguazuanum & teyucuarense cultivation Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 12:15:44 +0000 Alberto, not long ago, the bulb was sold last weekend at a very high price. But maybe the sellers cultivate the bulbs from seedlings, not plunder from the National Park. Stephen From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 13:45:03 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110824083248.036e1368@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: hi, Jim of Shieldgardens, I really need your help Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 08:36:58 -0400 Hi Stephen and all, The e-mail address was inactivated about a year ago because of a serious virus attack. It cost us time and money. We are still concerned about virus attacks and have not come up with a satisfactory replacement for the general public . I will respond privately, now that you have my attention. Jim Shields At 05:44 AM 8/24/2011 +0000, you wrote: >Hi, Jim, sorry for I submit my postage here because I sent you emails to >jim@shieldgardens.com but always got a Postmaster.................. >Stephen > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 17:42:25 2011 Message-Id: <00d701cc6267$68aeee30$3a0cca90$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: hi, Jim of Shieldgardens, I really need your help Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 10:09:15 -0400 Hi Jim, I think the email/domain address is not the issue - it is the protection behind it. With quality anti-virus/privacy/etc protection which is kept up to date, the risk of damage is minimal. If you chose to do so you should just reinstate the jim@shieldsgardens.com address - the address itself is innocent! Best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 17:42:25 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: hi, Jim of Shieldgardens, I really need your help Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 16:58:58 +0200 Hello Jum Or with a trick you open a Gmail account for example shieldsgardens@gmail.com and you import automatic from your old email address spam goes automatic in the spambox I did the same almost no spam any more If you need an invitation just pm me Roland 2011/8/24 John T Lonsdale : > Hi Jim, > > I think the email/domain address is not the issue - it is the protection > behind it. With quality anti-virus/privacy/etc protection which is kept up -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 17:42:24 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110824113752.036efe50@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: hi, Jim of Shieldgardens, I really need your help Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 11:39:43 -0400 This was a first-rate suggestion! I've done it, and my new "other" e-mail address for posting on my web site is Thanks, Roland! Jim At 04:58 PM 8/24/2011 +0200, you wrote: >Hello Jum > >Or with a trick >you open a Gmail account >for example shieldsgardens@gmail.com >and you import automatic from your old email address >spam goes automatic in the spambox > >I did the same >almost no spam any more > >If you need an invitation just pm me > >Roland ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 24 22:27:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Hippeastrum iguazuanum & teyucuarense cultivation Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:19:07 +0000 Thanks, Stephen. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:15 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum thaianum Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 16:46:47 -0500 Dear Friends, I was in a large pet Warehouse store today on another errand, when I saw a shelf of Aquarium plants so had to stop. There were bulbs labelled "Onon Plant - Crinum thaianum". They were $ 4 or 5 each. But what were they and will any Crinum tolerate growing submerged? It sort of looked like C. americanum, but not enough. Bulbs were about 1 inch in diameter. Leaves thick and slightly twisted. I wouldn't even bet that it is a Crinum. It is not on the PBS wiki and although there are lots of Google 'hits', none answer a few basic questions. So what do our Crinum experts have to guess? Look at this page and tell me: http://www.floridaaquatic.com/aquarium_plant_crinum_thaianum.html Of course the very name "thaianum" sounds phoney and probably just means some Thai nursery is the source. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:12 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 19:10:27 -0500 Dear Friends, I have been hearing more stories of the ease of growth and reliable bloom of various sp of Griffinia as house plants. Most recently I got a story about G. liboniana 'Supreme'. Never even heard of cultivars and this one is not listed on our wiki. So does any one have experience growing any Griffinia as a house plant especially in northern climates and know a good source for bulbs? Who wouldn't want a mini-Worsleya? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:16 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 00:28:42 +0000 They are great house plants as Eucharis are, their light requirements are mostly modest. Sadly, most are critically endangered. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:17 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Crinum thaianum Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 00:33:33 +0000 Jim, Crinum thaianum is an aquatic plant from Southeast Asia. It was published in Plant Life years ago. Leaves are long and twisted and grow floating in rivers (like kelp). Bulbs grow submerged (as most of the plant). It seems to be the plant in your image. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:17 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 20:40:05 -0400 Jim, I grow about 6 species of Griffinia, it's a very carefree bloomer and incredibly easy to cultivate. They're much more forgiving than many other Amaryllids! I would recommend growing Griffinia liboniana as the foliage and flowers are both very attractive and it's a very free bloomer, one of my clones can bloom every few months! Josh On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:10 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends, > I have been hearing more stories of the ease of growth and > reliable bloom of various sp of Griffinia as house plants. Most > recently I got a story about G. liboniana 'Supreme'. Never even heard > of cultivars and this one is not listed on our wiki. > > So does any one have experience growing any Griffinia as a > house plant especially in northern climates and know a good source > for bulbs? > > Who wouldn't want a mini-Worsleya? Best Jim > W. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:18 2011 Message-Id: <380-22011842505158625@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 20:51:58 -0400 I will second Alberto's opinion here. I've been able to grow and bloom Griffinia liboniana on an east facing window that gets perhaps 1-2 hours of early morning sunlight. If I forget to water the plants, they die back, but they quickly resprout when they are watered. Eugene Zielinski eez55@earthlink.net Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: Alberto Castillo > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 8/24/2011 8:28:48 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Griffinia as a 'house plant' > > > They are great house plants as Eucharis are, their light requirements are mostly modest. Sadly, most are critically endangered. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:19 2011 Message-Id: <380-220118425101734@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Crinum thaianum Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:00:01 -0400 Hello all. It's true that C. thaianum is not pictured on the PBS wiki, but another aquatic species, C. calamistratum, is. The pictures provide a good indication of how these submerged aquatics grow. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: James Waddick > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 8/24/2011 8:10:35 PM > Subject: [pbs] Crinum thaianum > > Dear Friends, > I was in a large pet Warehouse store today on another errand, > when I saw a shelf of Aquarium plants so had to stop. There were > bulbs labelled "Onon Plant - Crinum thaianum". They were $ 4 or 5 > each. > > But what were they and will any Crinum tolerate growing submerged? > > It sort of looked like C. americanum, but not enough. Bulbs > were about 1 inch in diameter. Leaves thick and slightly twisted. I > wouldn't even bet that it is a Crinum. > > It is not on the PBS wiki and although there are lots of > Google 'hits', none answer a few basic questions. > > So what do our Crinum experts have to guess? From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:21 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 21:55:55 -0500 Dear Alberto, Gene and all, I am getting quite an education about aquatic species of Crinum - a totally new window in the Crinum world. Yes, there is a C. thaianum and that is the proper name. It comes only from a small river area in S. Thailand. But there are three more species (at least) of aquatic Crinum. C. calamistratum which is pictured on the wiki and cultivated by at least one PBS member: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumSpeciesTwo#calamistratum C. natans also on our wiki at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumSpeciesThree and C. aquatica which is pictured at various web sites. Are there more? All of these from Africa and Asia are obligate aquatics and have lovely Crinum like flowers. I had no idea these existed. Learn something new from PBS all the time. Thanks to all and best. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:21 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 23:10:39 -0500 Dear Friends, These are fine experiences agreeing with my rumors that Griffinias are especially easy as 'house plants' and that G. liboniana is especially nice and reblooms. NOT one mention of a source? Drat. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:21 2011 Message-Id: <8CE30F9E2C81B0F-2480-1FD50@webmail-d173.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 00:52:11 -0400 I, too, have yet to have one - I've seen G. libonica on Ebay fairly regularly these past few weeks - at a very reasonable price - but I haven't jumped on one just yet. Trading is always much more fun. Best, Jude From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:21 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:11:43 +0100 Hello Jim, I believe at least one species is occasionally sold in the states for fish tanks. I have read that the key to flowering (at least with some of them) is a short dryish period. Peter (UK) On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 3:55 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Alberto, Gene and all, > I am getting quite an education about aquatic species of > Crinum > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:22 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 08:17:10 +0100 Sorry just seen the subject Crinum thaianum Peter (UK) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:24 2011 Message-Id: <5E2BF53334D34F85B553BB21B9942663@fambreier> From: "Markus Breier" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:22:35 +0200 Hallo all, Aquatic Crinums are sold regularly here in Germany in good aquatic shops. They seem to be from Asian nurseries, then brought to Europe and spreaded by the companies (e.g. Dennerle, a big company for aquariums and everything you need for, excellent plants!). There are three species you can get without any problems: Crinum thaianum (also a form with curled leaf) Crinum calamistratum Crinum natans They are in the plant database of Dennerle, too: http://www.dennerle.eu/global/index.php?option=com_pflanzendatenbank&Itemid= 211&lang=en (tip in "Crinum") I had C. calamistratum and C. thaianum for several years in the aquarium, but they were not easy plants. They need big tanks, as they have long leafs and grow very slowly. They also want more nutrients than they get in a fish tank - but if you put nutrients in the ground, you also feed the algae... At least they never bloomed. This spring I gave up all my aquariums. The Crinums came to a friend. Best Wishes Markus Breier Bavaria, Southern Germany From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:31 2011 Message-Id: <174BC3F7A6864DCBA22ED6AFD50AAEA5@fambreier> From: "Markus Breier" Subject: WG: Aquatic Crinum/ temporarily Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 11:23:23 +0200 Just forgotten... There are several Crinum that grow temporarily in the water. In 2009 I saw one a boat tour on the Okavango-Delta (Northern Botswana, Africa). The water was about 50cm deep and stands at this place for many weeks to some months. I just got this picture: http://www.aquanimal.de/images/content/Bilderlink_temp/dsc_0172a.jpg.thumb I am not sure if the leafs belong to the Crinum. Does anybody know which species that might be? Best Wishes Markus Breier Bavaria, Southern Germany From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:32 2011 Message-Id: From: "Markus Breier" Subject: WG: Aquatic Crinum/ temporarily Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 11:24:44 +0200 Sorry, wrong link: http://www.aquanimal.de/images/content/Bilderlink_temp/dsc_0172a.jpg Best Wishes Markus Breier From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 12:13:34 2011 Message-Id: From: m o Subject: WG: Aquatic Crinum/ temporarily Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:41:00 +0700 Dear Breier, You photo look like crinum paludosum. Thanin On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 4:24 PM, Markus Breier wrote: > Sorry, wrong link: > http://www.aquanimal.de/images/content/Bilderlink_temp/dsc_0172a.jpg > > Best Wishes > Markus Breier > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 13:13:06 2011 Message-Id: <4E5638E0.30501@gmail.com> From: Tomas Sandberg Subject: Griffinias Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 13:58:24 +0200 Hi, I am growing Griffinia in my home (apartment) and they are very easy and it is the species that has flowered most of all species I have as my G rochae it has been in flower for 5 times this year, G liboniana 2 times, G epsiritensis 1 time, G parviflora 2 times And I have them in front of a big window with half shade gives them water 2-3 times/week. I am very found of Griffinias and I have approx. 20 of them and 6 species but I need other clones to avoid the seed capsules from explode, I have tried several trick about this as pollinate when fade out, pollinate after spraying with water but it doesn't work for me. I am only waiting for my G hyacinthina to flower I have had it for two years now and it grows well and is as you know the biggest of all Griffinias bigger than many of my Hippeastrums and it seems to be reliable too and that's good, so next year if I have luck it might flower, it is a mature bulb with the age of 13 years. Thanks Tomas From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 14:13:07 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:57:39 -0500 >I, too, have yet to have one - I've seen G. libonica on Ebay fairly >regularly these past few weeks - at a very reasonable price - but I >haven't jumped on one just yet. Trading is always much more fun. I agree. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 14:28:07 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 09:25:47 -0400 I started growing Eucharis thanks to the PBS BX and I love them so far. They loooove water. And they are making offsets now which I hope means they're old enough to bloom. But so far, no bloom. I have Eucharis 'Christine' and Eucharis x Grandiflora. (I think?) I would love to try Griffinia some day! Dennis in Cincinnati On Wed, Aug 24, 2011 at 8:28 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > They are great house plants as Eucharis are, their light requirements are > mostly modest. Sadly, most are critically endangered. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:26:51 2011 Message-Id: <20110825135653.6AFD8E8CF4@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 06:56:24 -0700 Hi, Marek Walnik from Poland who loves amaryllids would like help from our group determining what is the problem with this Hippeastrum. The photo below shows the underside of one of the leaves. Any ideas? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg Here's Marek's web site (in Polish). http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/amaryllidaceae.html Mary Sue From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:26:51 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 15:59:25 +0200 Hello Mary Sue I have a problem with the link I get this message Not Found The requested URL /pbswiki/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg was not found on this server. Apache Server at www.pacificbulbsociety.org Port 80 Roland 2011/8/25 Mary Sue Ittner : > Hi, > > Marek Walnik from Poland who loves amaryllids would like help from > our group determining what is the problem with this Hippeastrum. > The photo below shows the underside of one of the leaves. Any ideas? > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg > > Here's Marek's web site (in Polish). > http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/amaryllidaceae.html > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:26:51 2011 Message-Id: <20110825141614.15E68E8C5D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 07:14:48 -0700 I usually try the link before I send it. I was in a hurry. I added an extra pbswiki. Sorry. This one works. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg Mary Sue From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:41:52 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:32:11 +0200 Looks a little of one of the Coccidae family but I am not a specialist of that Roland 2011/8/25 Mary Sue Ittner : > I usually try the link before I send it. I was in a hurry. I added an > extra pbswiki. Sorry. This one works. > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:41:52 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110825101724.05240470@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming now ... week of Aug 21st, 2011 Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:32:59 -0400 Haemanthus namaquensis is in bloom! It's the first winter-growing Haemanthus to bloom this season. I don't have a picture of this bloom, but there is one in last year's blog at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/201008.html#e1 There are buds showing color on others: Haemanthus barkerae, Haemanthus pubescens pubescens. There are buds on Cyrtanthus labiatus and on 3 Cyrtanthus montanus, although another montanus bloomed a couple weeks earlier. Nerine krigei, laticoma, and [filifolia x krigei] (wrongly labelled as krigei x filifolia) are also in bloom right now. The only photos so far of these are on the SRGC Forum at: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=7641.msg212487#msg212487 Another clump of Hymenocallis occidentalis is starting to bloom. Although Hymenocallis occidentalis is native to Indiana, being found in the far southwestern corner of Indiana along the Ohio and Wabash rivers, mine came to Indiana from Arkansas about 100 years ago with someone's grandmother. That picture is at: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=7570.msg212324#msg212324 We had 3/4 inch of rain last night as a cool front moved through. That ought to liven things up in the garden. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Thu Aug 25 15:41:52 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110825103547.05240700@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 10:36:04 -0400 Scale? Jim Shields At 07:14 AM 8/25/2011 -0700, you wrote: >I usually try the link before I send it. I was in a hurry. I added an >extra pbswiki. Sorry. This one works. > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg > >Mary Sue ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:44:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 17:18:29 +0000 Dennis, try to give them big pots. Even immature bulbs will offset. Flower production depends (IN MATURE BULBS) on a short period of drought. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:44:59 2011 Message-Id: <1314308910.18368.YahooMailNeo@web130113.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: neg fer Subject: Griffinia as a 'house plant' Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:48:30 -0700 (PDT) Few years back I bought some bulbs of Grifinia sp. & Grifinia liboniana from Gardino Nursery in Florida US in a very reasonable price. Try it.   Regards, Fereydoun Sharifi Calgary Canada Zone 3 From: James Waddick To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2011 6:10 PM Subject: [pbs] Griffinia as a 'house plant' Dear Friends,     I have been hearing more stories of the ease of growth and reliable bloom of various sp of Griffinia as house plants. Most recently I got a story about G. liboniana 'Supreme'. Never even heard of cultivars and this one is not listed on our wiki.     So does any one have experience growing any Griffinia as a house plant especially in northern climates and know a good source for bulbs?     Who wouldn't want a mini-Worsleya?        Best        Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph.    816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F     Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:02 2011 Message-Id: <20110825233008.9TVN4.21453.root@cdptpa-web19-z02> From: Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:30:08 -0400 Hello everyone, I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm looking for advice. It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since early July What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. Thanks in advance, Eric Duma Western New York Zone 5b From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:05 2011 Message-Id: <8CE31AE63CC55D4-1D3C-2A959@webmail-m078.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 22:24:17 -0400 Sounds like you're doing everything right. They like being slightly rootbound, and the roots tend to rot in a larger pot (since the soil surrounding the roots stay moist longer.) When in doubt, don't water. I'm a Clivia nut myself :) Jude From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:06 2011 Message-Id: <1314326047.5832.YahooMailNeo@web65903.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 19:34:07 -0700 (PDT) Hi Eric, Clivia are happy with neglect, and love to be underpotted.  I have some that are badly in need of repotting, by that I mean they have hardly any soil in their pots at all, roots are climbing over the top, a few have split open their pots (I can send you some photos), yet they are happily growing and flowering.  In fact, they rarely flowered until they got to the crowded-in-their-pot stage. The only time I lost plants was when I separated and repotted them in October, for what that is worth.  I have mine in regular potting soil with a little added perlite and sand.  Hope that helps! Susan ________________________________ From: "elilium71@roadrunner.com" To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2011 7:30 PM Subject: [pbs] Question on Clivia Hello everyone, I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm looking for advice. It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since early July What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. Thanks in advance, Eric Duma Western New York Zone 5b From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:06 2011 Message-Id: <4E572A71.8020005@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 17:09:05 +1200 For what it is worth, here I can grow them outside. They get no water and are in total shade, no sun at all. I have all different ones, some red, some creamy white (that one is gorgeous) and various orange and also yellow. Which I got as I belong to a Clivia club. They eventually grow into big clumps, which when the clump gets too big, some of them die off in the middle and get replaced by the plant itself. They flower happily. Hope that is some help. Ina Auckland, New Zealand Where the weather is actually lovely and spring like. On 26/08/2011 11:30 a.m., elilium71@roadrunner.com wrote: > Hello everyone, > I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm looking for advice. > It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since early July > What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. > Thanks in advance, > Eric Duma > Western New York > Zone 5b > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:16 2011 Message-Id: <0A180AAEBD1A400B96E943AA268AF6BB@RobinPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 09:57:09 -0400 do you know what your american ZONE would be? thanks -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ina Crossley" Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:09 AM To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: Re: [pbs] Question on Clivia > For what it is worth, here I can grow them outside. They get no water > and are in total shade, no sun at all. I have all different ones, some > red, some creamy white (that one is gorgeous) and various orange and > also yellow. > > Which I got as I belong to a Clivia club. > > They eventually grow into big clumps, which when the clump gets too big, > some of them die off in the middle and get replaced by the plant itself. > > They flower happily. > > Hope that is some help. > > Ina Auckland, New Zealand Where the weather is actually lovely and > spring like. > > On 26/08/2011 11:30 a.m., elilium71@roadrunner.com wrote: >> Hello everyone, >> I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium >> guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm >> looking for advice. >> It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is >> about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since >> early July >> What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to >> replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. >> Thanks in advance, >> Eric Duma >> Western New York >> Zone 5b >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:16 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110826105016.06012140@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 10:52:31 -0400 I am in central Indiana (a suburb of Indianapolis) and this is about the border between USDA zone 5a and 5b. Hymenocallis occidentalis is pretty hardy here, but its natural habitats are in zone 6 or warmer. Jim At 09:57 AM 8/26/2011 -0400, you wrote: >do you know what your american ZONE would be? > >thanks > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "Ina Crossley" >Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:09 AM >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Question on Clivia > > > For what it is worth, here I can grow them outside. They get no water > > and are in total shade, no sun at all. I have all different ones, some > > red, some creamy white (that one is gorgeous) and various orange and > > also yellow. > > > > Which I got as I belong to a Clivia club. > > > > They eventually grow into big clumps, which when the clump gets too big, > > some of them die off in the middle and get replaced by the plant itself. > > > > They flower happily. > > > > Hope that is some help. > > > > Ina Auckland, New Zealand Where the weather is actually lovely and > > spring like. > > > > On 26/08/2011 11:30 a.m., elilium71@roadrunner.com wrote: > >> Hello everyone, > >> I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium > >> guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm > >> looking for advice. > >> It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is > >> about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since > >> early July > >> What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to > >> replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. > >> Thanks in advance, > >> Eric Duma > >> Western New York > >> Zone 5b > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:17 2011 Message-Id: From: Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 16:55:37 +0200 Hi, My first thought was of Diaspidid scales or wax scales. But the thing looks like something reddish-brown inside the lower leaf surface, not on the surface. Here’s a picture from July: http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/foto/Hippe_leaf.jpg . I couldn’t see any other symptoms on the Hippeastrum plant. Now it looks like the item is drying out: http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/foto/Hippe_leaf1.jpg . Thanks for all suggestions. Marek Walnik Glucholazy, Poland Zone 6, by planting mainly on a windowsill _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:17 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110826114309.06012288@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 11:44:33 -0400 This non-sequitur shows what happens when your head is somewhere else and you (me) respond too fast. Please ignore my previous post. Jim Shields At 10:52 AM 8/26/2011 -0400, you wrote: >I am in central Indiana (a suburb of Indianapolis) and this is about the >border between USDA zone 5a and 5b. Hymenocallis occidentalis is pretty >hardy here, but its natural habitats are in zone 6 or warmer. > >Jim > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:19 2011 Message-Id: <507BB43D-AD85-4F7E-ABFE-8133089D1FAC@evolution-plants.com> From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 20:24:36 +0100 I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I collected a few years ago in Istria, northern Croatia. It is flowering now in cultivation in the UK. It's an easy, very floriferous species, growing to about 20cm in height and spreads slowly. I should have a ton of seed later in the year if anyone is interested and will send some to Dell for the BX anyway. Any suggestions as to the species? http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums Tom From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:19 2011 Message-Id: <4E57F3FE.80409@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 07:29:02 +1200 My American zone would be about 9-10 (I think). We are considered sub tropical from here up. Although even in Auckland it varies as it is such a large area. I get a few mild frosts in winter. Although where the Clivias are, against the house, they wouldn't get any frost. Ina On 27/08/2011 1:57 a.m., Robin Carrier wrote: > do you know what your american ZONE would be? > > thanks > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Ina Crossley" > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:09 AM > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Question on Clivia > >> For what it is worth, here I can grow them outside. They get no water >> and are in total shade, no sun at all. I have all different ones, some >> red, some creamy white (that one is gorgeous) and various orange and >> also yellow. >> >> Which I got as I belong to a Clivia club. >> >> They eventually grow into big clumps, which when the clump gets too big, >> some of them die off in the middle and get replaced by the plant itself. >> >> They flower happily. >> >> Hope that is some help. >> >> Ina Auckland, New Zealand Where the weather is actually lovely and >> spring like. >> >> On 26/08/2011 11:30 a.m., elilium71@roadrunner.com wrote: >>> Hello everyone, >>> I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium >>> guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm >>> looking for advice. >>> It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is >>> about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been since >>> early July >>> What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to >>> replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. >>> Thanks in advance, >>> Eric Duma >>> Western New York >>> Zone 5b >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:35 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 19:53:54 +0000 Probably 9b-10 From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:43 2011 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 16:10:37 -0400 shucks. I am in 8 to 9. we even have SNOW every so often. robin -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ina Crossley" Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 3:29 PM To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: Re: [pbs] Question on Clivia > My American zone would be about 9-10 (I think). We are considered sub > tropical from here up. Although even in Auckland it varies as it is > such a large area. I get a few mild frosts in winter. Although where > the Clivias are, against the house, they wouldn't get any frost. > > Ina > > On 27/08/2011 1:57 a.m., Robin Carrier wrote: >> do you know what your american ZONE would be? >> >> thanks >> >> -------------------------------------------------- >> From: "Ina Crossley" >> Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 1:09 AM >> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Question on Clivia >> >>> For what it is worth, here I can grow them outside. They get no water >>> and are in total shade, no sun at all. I have all different ones, some >>> red, some creamy white (that one is gorgeous) and various orange and >>> also yellow. >>> >>> Which I got as I belong to a Clivia club. >>> >>> They eventually grow into big clumps, which when the clump gets too big, >>> some of them die off in the middle and get replaced by the plant itself. >>> >>> They flower happily. >>> >>> Hope that is some help. >>> >>> Ina Auckland, New Zealand Where the weather is actually lovely and >>> spring like. >>> >>> On 26/08/2011 11:30 a.m., elilium71@roadrunner.com wrote: >>>> Hello everyone, >>>> I bought my first clivia (labeled yellow flowered clivia). I'm a Lilium >>>> guy and I have little or no knowledge on how to grow it well and I'm >>>> looking for advice. >>>> It is in a seven inch plastic pot and the plant has 17 leaves and is >>>> about 27 inches high. It is outside (half shaded area) and has been >>>> since >>>> early July >>>> What size pot should it be repotted into and what is the best time to >>>> replant it. Also what type of mix should it be planted in. >>>> Thanks in advance, >>>> Eric Duma >>>> Western New York >>>> Zone 5b >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> pbs mailing list >>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:43 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Hippeastrum lapacense Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 16:18:13 -0400 Hi guys, Does anyone have this plant to trade for other Hippeastrum species? I had an offset and sadly it was overtaken by NBF, it wasn't large enough to reproduce I guess! Any size offset would be appreciated, I have many species I can trade! Thanks Josh From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:43 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:59:06 +0100 Hi Tom, - is it rhizomatous? Peter (UK) On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 8:24 PM, Tom Mitchell wrote: > I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I > collected > Any suggestions as to the species? > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums > > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:44 2011 Message-Id: <001901cc6435$862619f0$2401a8c0@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 22:17:11 +0100 Surely this is Allium senescens, or a close ally of it. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Mitchell" To: Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 8:24 PM Subject: [pbs] Allium species - ID suggestions? > I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I > collected a few years ago in Istria, northern Croatia. It is flowering now > in cultivation in the UK. It's an easy, very floriferous species, growing > to about 20cm in height and spreads slowly. I should have a ton of seed > later in the year if anyone is interested and will send some to Dell for > the BX anyway. Any suggestions as to the species? > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: Question on Clivia Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 18:01:25 -0400 (EDT) I am zone 9 and grow Clivia outside. I grow things that are questionable on both sides of 9 and many do fine, others require a bit of pampering, some fail. Carolyn From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 23:29:07 +0100 I was getting to that conclusion John, Just being cautious as I don't know the distributions for the different species /subspecies. It looks like what I have as Allium senscens montanum, but I think that is from western Europe? and mine has shinier leaves. Peter (UK) On Fri, Aug 26, 2011 at 10:17 PM, John Grimshaw wrote: > Surely this is Allium senescens, or a close ally of it > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:45 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 21:42:48 -0700 Hi, I don't think that Marek has scales on the Hippeastrum. It looks to me like that is the beginning of the outbreak of spores from a rust fungus. It is too late to do anything this season but a systemic fungicide may help with next season's growth. Nhu On Thu, Aug 25, 2011 at 6:56 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Hi, > > Marek Walnik from Poland who loves amaryllids would like help from > our group determining what is the problem with this Hippeastrum. > The photo below shows the underside of one of the leaves. Any ideas? > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/pbswiki/files/Hippeastrum/Hippestrum_leaf_MW.jpg > / > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:47 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problem Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 21:01:47 +1000 Hello Marek. Hi everyone ! Could it be possible that it is Hippeastrum scale mite ? I'm not sure what it looks like when it is developing, but the mite gets in between the layers of the leaf, cause some scale damage & a by product of their damage is a visible reddish mark underneath the scale on the leaf surface. Some rust problems also start with a similar scaly look & the redness could be spoors developing. If u treated your plants for both or similar symptoms, u should cover a range of other similar problems. Make sure u spray well into the centre of the new growth not just the infected outer areas. Best of luck Steven > http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/foto/Hippe_leaf1.jpg . > > Marek Walnik > Glucholazy, Poland > Zone 6, by planting mainly on a windowsill > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:47 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Ipomoea hybrid Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 11:24:40 -0400 For years I've daydreamed about using Ipomoea pandurata to make crosses with more colorful Ipomoea species. So this morning I set out to do that with Ipomoea coccinea. O.M.G. there's pollen everywhere and I can't find the stigma -- I think it's smothered with pollen already! Good grief. http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/P8270009.JPG Any words of wisdom from the PBS forum? :-) PS: I was successful, however, in crossing Passiflora x 'Manta' with Passiflora lutea this morning. And by that I mean I was able to apply pollen from one onto the other, and vice versa. :-) Only time will tell if they develop fruit. Dennis in Cincinnati (not a hurricane in sight!) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:48 2011 Message-Id: From: C W Mueller Subject: Ipomoea hybrid Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 10:57:34 -0500 Dennis, have you ever grown the heirloom Southern ipomoea plant called "Perennial Blue"? It is wildly vigorous and has respectable blue flowers which never set seed on their own. Maybe its pollen could be used, though. Cynthia Mueller, Central Texas Sent from my iPhone On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:24 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > For years I've daydreamed about using Ipomoea pandurata to make > crosses with more colorful Ipomoea species. So this morning I set out > to do that with Ipomoea coccinea. O.M.G. there's pollen everywhere > and I can't find the stigma -- I think it's smothered with pollen > already! Good grief. > > http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/P8270009.JPG > > Any words of wisdom from the PBS forum? :-) > > PS: I was successful, however, in crossing Passiflora x 'Manta' with > Passiflora lutea this morning. And by that I mean I was able to apply > pollen from one onto the other, and vice versa. :-) Only time will > tell if they develop fruit. > > Dennis in Cincinnati (not a hurricane in sight!) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:48 2011 Message-Id: <7a05f909.12f1c4.1320c061f79.Webtop.45@charter.net> From: Mark McDonough Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:15:20 -0400 (EDT) Tom Mitchell wrote: > I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I > collected a few years ago in Istria, northern Croatia. >It is > flowering now in cultivation in the UK. It's an easy, very floriferous > species, growing to about 20cm in height and >spreads slowly. I should > have a ton of seed later in the year if anyone is interested and will > send some to Dell for the BX >anyway. Any suggestions as to the > species? > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums Tom, your lovely allium is A. incensiodorum, a species endemic to Croatia described in 1989 by Jure Radić. There were a number of studies on the closely related group of rhizomatous Allium in Europe and Asia over the last 20 years, the most important being: "Taxonomy, chorology and evolution of Allium lusitanicum - the European "A. senescens", by Nikolai Friesen & N. Herrmann, 1998. Basically, this publication demarks the difference between what is regarded as true A. senescens (a species purely of Asia), and the European counterparts (previously A. senescens ssp. montanum, moved to a reinstated older name of A. lusitanicum), and further delimitation as other species. Some links: Allium incensiodorum published by Jure Radić in 1989, endemic to Croatia, fine photo... watch the URL, it may word-wrap. http://www.biologie.uni-osnabrueck.de/bogos/Projekte/Pflanzenportraets/Site/Allium_incensiodorum%28Bluete%29.html "Taxonomy, chorology and evolution of Allium lusitanicum - the European "A. senescens", by Nikolai Friesen & N. Herrmann, 1998. I have an original color copy of this document, sorry that this link is to a very poor quality scanned black & white version: http://www.biologie.uni-osnabrueck.de/bogos/wir_ueber_uns/friesen/publications/Lusitanicum.pdf A number of alliums pictured here, I used Google Translate to translate Danish to English. This is a long URL that'll wrap, copy and paste the whole thing into your browser: http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=da&u=http://allium.wikidot.com/allium-i&ei=iBJZToi2DIHagQeqqrWUDA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CHcQ7gEwBTg8&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dallium%2Bincensiodorum%26start%3D60%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D809%26prmd%3Divns And YES Please, I would dearly love to try some seed of this plant from known provenance, I'll write to you privately about it. Regards, Mark McDonough The Onion man ;-) in Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, USDA Zone 5 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:48 2011 Message-Id: From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problems Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 14:05:34 -0400 (EDT) Could it be oedema? Especially if it looks like it is drying out. --Jerry Lehmann Olathe, KS, USA From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 19:45:48 2011 Message-Id: From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 14:08:21 -0400 (EDT) Hi, can anyone tell me why clivia seedlings, that start out variegated, and grow as variegated seedlings for about three years, eventually become solid green plants? I have a few of these; others from the same batch are still variegated...two out of six seedlings are now solid green. Thanks. --Jerry Lehmann Olathe, KS, USA From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 20:59:38 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110827152422.064a0ca8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 15:27:09 -0400 Hi Jerry, I've seen this a lot myself, especially with seeds from Conway's Doris. My hypothesis is that in these plants, the healthy green tissue fails to share glucose with the "sickly" yellow tissue, and simply overgrows it, crowding it out. Just my guess... Jim Shields At 02:08 PM 8/27/2011 -0400, you wrote: >Hi, can anyone tell me why clivia seedlings, that start out variegated, and > grow as variegated seedlings for about three years, eventually become >solid green plants? I have a few of these; others from the same batch are >still variegated...two out of six seedlings are now solid green. Thanks. > >--Jerry Lehmann >Olathe, KS, USA ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sat Aug 27 20:29:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 20:28:06 +0100 The Allium in question is indeed rhizomatous, which I should have mentioned. Allium senescens looks correct to me - thanks for the help. My knowledge of the genus Allium has just increased by about 50%. Tom > Message: 8 > Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 22:17:11 +0100 > From: "John Grimshaw" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Allium species - ID suggestions? > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: <001901cc6435$862619f0$2401a8c0@MAINPC> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Surely this is Allium senescens, or a close ally of it. > > John Grimshaw > > Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary > http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ > > Dr. John M. Grimshaw > Sycamore Cottage > Colesbourne > Cheltenham > Gloucestershire > GL53 9NP > > Tel. 01242 870567 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tom Mitchell" > To: > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 8:24 PM > Subject: [pbs] Allium species - ID suggestions? > > >> I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I >> collected a few years ago in Istria, northern Croatia. It is flowering now >> in cultivation in the UK. It's an easy, very floriferous species, growing >> to about 20cm in height and spreads slowly. I should have a ton of seed >> later in the year if anyone is interested and will send some to Dell for >> the BX anyway. Any suggestions as to the species? >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums >> >> Tom > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 12:34:30 2011 Message-Id: <1314486157.93602.YahooMailClassic@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: whats blooming week of Aug 21st ... more Brunsvigia litoralis Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 16:02:37 -0700 (PDT) My apologies, but I will bore you all with some final shots of the blooming Brunsvigia litoralis, which will probably continue blooming well into next week:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6086371604/in/photostream   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6086372586/in/photostream   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6087099966/in/photostream   and the following shot of collected stamens and pollen:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6085826225/in/photostream   Ken Blackford San Diego   From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 12:34:31 2011 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: whats blooming week of Aug 21st ... more Brunsvigia litoralis Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 16:44:50 -0700 Ken, you are "forgiven". The pictures are VERY beautiful! Doug From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 12:34:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: whats blooming week of Aug 21st ... more Brunsvigia litoralis Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 21:01:17 -0400 Ken, Looking at the third link, the up close picture it looks like the flower is showing color breaks which is indicative of virus. Jacob Knecht I think had a Brunsvigia litoralis had the same color breaks on his plant. Be careful administering pollen on other plants as this could spread virus. Josh On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 7:02 PM, Ken wrote: > My apologies, but I will bore you all with some final shots of the blooming > Brunsvigia litoralis, which will probably continue blooming well into next > week: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6086371604/in/photostream > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6086372586/in/photostream > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6087099966/in/photostream > > and the following shot of collected stamens and pollen: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6085826225/in/photostream > > Ken Blackford > San Diego > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 12:34:39 2011 Message-Id: <1314493926.98515.YahooMailNeo@web65919.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: whats blooming week of Aug 21st ... more Brunsvigia litoralis Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:12:06 -0700 (PDT) Great photos!  Congratulations! Susan B ________________________________ From: Ken To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 7:02 PM Subject: [pbs] whats blooming week of Aug 21st ... more Brunsvigia litoralis My apologies, but I will bore you all with some final shots of the blooming Brunsvigia litoralis, which will probably continue blooming well into next week: From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 12:34:45 2011 Message-Id: <4E59BB8B.8080800@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 15:52:43 +1200 We are going into the spring. So lots of daffodils, however, I have no name for these. Cyclamen Hederifolium Dwarf Watsonia Ipheion Sellowianum Narcissus Fernandessii Tulbagia Fragrans Veltheimia Bracteata The peach coloured Clivia has a bud, will take a photo again when it flowers. http://www.flickr.com/photos/49263888@N06/?saved=1 Ina From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 13:19:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 12:12:51 +0000 The scarlet dwarf Watsonia is W. laccata. The other Watsonia with bicolored flowers seems to be the same. There are several color forms of this. The Tulbaghia you will found as T. simmleri. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 16:19:35 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:14:42 +0200 Is there one of the members who knows something from Dirk Wallace Australia I try to reach him sins a long time without result He is contributor for the wiki see text below Roland Dirk Wallace I have had a passion for growing plants most of my life. My first obsession was with orchids and bromeliads, but I found that I needed a glasshouse to grow the more 'unusual ones' that I wanted to grow. In 1996 I discovered the facinating world of bulbs, and I've been hooked ever since! My main interests are in the Iridaceae and Liliaceae (particularly the Hyacinthaceae) families, but I'm keen on all geophytes, and I'm usually tempted to give anything a try! South African and South American genera hold the most interest, but I'm also very keen on many other's. Some genera I grow include: Albuca, Alophia, Arisaema, Aristea, Babiana, Calochortus, Cypella, Erythronium, Eucomis, Ferraria, Fritillaria, Gladiolus, Habranthus, Iris, Lachenalia, Massonia, Moraea, Oxalis, Romulea, Tigridia, Trillium, Veltheimia, Watsonia and Zephyranthes. I have a mail order list of bulbs and seed, Border Gateway Bulbs. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 17:34:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:25:41 +0100 your climate seems very benign Ina, and your garden looks lovely and full of flowers. are you sure the Cyclamen is hederafolium though? it looks very like persicum to me, look at the nose of the flowers where the petals seperate and compare with other pictures. I think there was a very old mix up between the names which resulted in the wrong plant being pictured on china , copied from wrongly labled botanical drawings. In a mild enough climate it may flower through out the year but C hederafolium usually flowers now in the northern hemisphere. Peter (UK) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:52 2011 Message-Id: From: "Alan O'Leary" Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 02:05:18 +0930 Hi Roland It seems Dirk is no longer selling bulbs. The Border Gateway Bulbs website has not been updated for several years. He did sell on ebay for a while but is now shown as no longer registered. Alan Adelaide , South Australia ,zone 10a ----- Original Message ----- From: "bulborum botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:44 AM Subject: [pbs] Dirk wallace Australia Is there one of the members who knows something from Dirk Wallace Australia I try to reach him sins a long time without result He is contributor for the wiki see text below Roland Dirk Wallace I have had a passion for growing plants most of my life. My first obsession was with orchids and bromeliads, but I found that I needed a glasshouse to grow the more 'unusual ones' that I wanted to grow. In 1996 I discovered the facinating world of bulbs, and I've been hooked ever since! My main interests are in the Iridaceae and Liliaceae (particularly the Hyacinthaceae) families, but I'm keen on all geophytes, and I'm usually tempted to give anything a try! South African and South American genera hold the most interest, but I'm also very keen on many other's. Some genera I grow include: Albuca, Alophia, Arisaema, Aristea, Babiana, Calochortus, Cypella, Erythronium, Eucomis, Ferraria, Fritillaria, Gladiolus, Habranthus, Iris, Lachenalia, Massonia, Moraea, Oxalis, Romulea, Tigridia, Trillium, Veltheimia, Watsonia and Zephyranthes. I have a mail order list of bulbs and seed, Border Gateway Bulbs. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 17:49:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 16:36:27 +0000 And in C. persicum sp. there are forms with leves that strikingly resemble hederifolium and graecum. > Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:25:41 +0100 > From: petersirises@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming now > > your climate seems very benign Ina, and your garden looks lovely and full of > flowers. are you sure the Cyclamen is hederafolium though? it looks very > like persicum to me, look at the nose of the flowers where the petals > seperate and compare with other pictures. > I think there was a very old mix up between the names which resulted in the > wrong plant being pictured on china , copied from wrongly labled botanical > drawings. > In a mild enough climate it may flower through out the year but C > hederafolium usually flowers now in the northern hemisphere. > Peter (UK) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 19:04:02 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 20:02:35 +0200 sure it is C. persicum and not C. hederifolium see also the not curled flower-stem but just bending Leave shape and leaves coming strait from the bulb just the whole habitus Roland 2011/8/28 Alberto Castillo : > > And in C. persicum sp. there are forms with leaves that strikingly resemble hederifolium and graecum. > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 19:19:01 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110828135423.05f7c4d8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 14:13:09 -0400 We have several more pots of Cyrtanthus montanus coming into bloom. There is our only Cyrtanthus labiatus in bloom as well; its flowers are not typical labiatus, so it might be a hybrid of labiatus x something else. Rhodophiala bifida (triploid ex hort) is starting to bloom. These are all in pots, as they only last through a couple of winters at most here in the ground. A dwarf Hymenocallis ex Nayarit is in bloom for the first time. The first flower opened somewhat distorted; maybe the other buds will open better. This should have bloomed in May if it were nayaritiana. So it may not be H. nayaritiana, as the foliage does not look petiolate to me. The flower seems to be sessile, and I can't tell whether the tube is curved or not. It looks a little too big to be nayaritiana to me, but I lost my only bulb of true nayaritiana years ago. Lycoris caldwellii is in bloom, and a picture is in today's blog at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/index.html (scroll down to near the end of today's entry). Two Chinese hybrids, 'Hill Beyond Hill' and 'Sky Over Sky' are sending up scapes. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 20:49:04 2011 Message-Id: From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Allium species - ID suggestions? Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 20:46:24 +0100 Mark, Thanks so much for your diagnosis and the links to the relevant papers and illustrations. Very much appreciated. Of course I'll happily send you seed - let me have your address privately. To the others who have contacted me requesting seed, I will make a note of the requests but it will be at least six weeks before it is ripe. I have a notoriously goldfish-like brain, so please remind me if nothing has arrived by late October. Best wishes, Tom > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 12:15:20 -0400 (EDT) > From: Mark McDonough > Subject: [pbs] Allium species - ID suggestions? > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <7a05f909.12f1c4.1320c061f79.Webtop.45@charter.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no > > > Tom Mitchell wrote: > >> I've added a couple of images to the Wiki of an Allium species that I >> collected a few years ago in Istria, northern Croatia. >It is >> flowering now in cultivation in the UK. It's an easy, very floriferous >> species, growing to about 20cm in height and >spreads slowly. I should >> have a ton of seed later in the year if anyone is interested and will >> send some to Dell for the BX >anyway. Any suggestions as to the >> species? >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrumstickAlliums > > Tom, your lovely allium is A. incensiodorum, a species endemic to > Croatia described in 1989 by Jure Radi?. > > There were a number of studies on the closely related group of > rhizomatous Allium in Europe and Asia over the last 20 years, the most > important being: "Taxonomy, chorology and evolution of Allium > lusitanicum - the European "A. senescens", by Nikolai Friesen & N. > Herrmann, 1998. Basically, this publication demarks the difference > between what is regarded as true A. senescens (a species purely of > Asia), and the European counterparts (previously A. senescens ssp. > montanum, moved to a reinstated older name of A. lusitanicum), and > further delimitation as other species. > > Some links: > Allium incensiodorum published by Jure Radi? in 1989, endemic to > Croatia, fine photo... watch the URL, it may word-wrap. > > http://www.biologie.uni-osnabrueck.de/bogos/Projekte/Pflanzenportraets/Site/Allium_incensiodorum%28Bluete%29.html > > "Taxonomy, chorology and evolution of Allium lusitanicum - the European > "A. senescens", by Nikolai Friesen & N. Herrmann, 1998. I have an > original color copy of this document, sorry that this link is to a very > poor quality scanned black & white version: > > http://www.biologie.uni-osnabrueck.de/bogos/wir_ueber_uns/friesen/publications/Lusitanicum.pdf > > A number of alliums pictured here, I used Google Translate to translate > Danish to English. This is a long URL that'll wrap, copy and paste the > whole thing into your browser: > > http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=da&u=http://allium.wikidot.com/allium-i&ei=iBJZToi2DIHagQeqqrWUDA&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CHcQ7gEwBTg8&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dallium%2Bincensiodorum%26start%3D60%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D809%26prmd%3Divns > > And YES Please, I would dearly love to try some seed of this plant from > known provenance, I'll write to you privately about it. > > > Regards, > > Mark McDonough > The Onion man ;-) > in Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, > USDA Zone 5 > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 21:34:05 2011 Message-Id: <4E5AA38C.7020608@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming now Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:22:36 +1200 Thank you for naming the dwarf Watsonia Alberto. I do like to have a name for things. Bought these as a clump of small seedlings some years ago. I do have a named one (Watsonia Pink Fairy) but that also will be the laccata one, which is almost mauve in colour, but several of the dwarf Watsonia flower later. I will put a name label with them or I would never remember. The Pink Fairy one really stands out, I love it. It is just as well that plants can't tell how they came to be acquired! And yes, the Tulbagia Fragrans is the same as T. Simmleri, but as I have it for the scent, I prefer the old name. On 29/08/2011 12:12 a.m., Alberto Castillo wrote: > The scarlet dwarf Watsonia is W. laccata. The other Watsonia with bicolored flowers seems to be the same. There are several color forms of this. > > The Tulbaghia you will found as T. simmleri. > > >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 21:34:06 2011 Message-Id: <4E5AA49A.4030808@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming now Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:27:06 +1200 Yes, there are usually a very few flowers on this Cyclamen throughout the year, but it gets too dry for them in summer, so the main flowering season is in winter. They never get overlooked, most visitors comment on them as they are along the path by the front gate. And it all started with just 2 or 3 plants I bought and planted. In a mild enough climate it may flower through out the year but C hederafolium usually flowers now in the northern hemisphere. Peter (UK) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 21:34:06 2011 Message-Id: <4E5AA55F.2020406@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming now Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:30:23 +1200 Actually when I bought it all it said was Cyclamen Mix, so yes, it is likely to be the Cyclamen Persicum. I must put the name label with it as it is not the first time I have made that mistake. Thanks Peter. Ina On 29/08/2011 4:36 a.m., Alberto Castillo wrote: > And in C. persicum sp. there are forms with leves that strikingly resemble hederifolium and graecum. > > >> Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:25:41 +0100 >> From: petersirises@gmail.com >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming now >> >> your climate seems very benign Ina, and your garden looks lovely and full of >> flowers. are you sure the Cyclamen is hederafolium though? it looks very >> like persicum to me, look at the nose of the flowers where the petals >> seperate and compare with other pictures. >> I think there was a very old mix up between the names which resulted in the >> wrong plant being pictured on china , copied from wrongly labled botanical >> drawings. >> In a mild enough climate it may flower through out the year but C >> hederafolium usually flowers now in the northern hemisphere. >> Peter (UK) >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 22:04:07 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's blooming now Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 21:49:47 +0100 The auricles on the flower of Cycleman hederifolium are diagnostic, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cyclamen_hederifolium_prominent_auricles.jpg, as is the coiling of the stem for the seed capsule. The drooping stem is diagnostic for Cycleman persicum, as is winter flowering, Hederifolium has its main flowering BEFORE winter and will do so regardless of drought. Both are marvelous plants. Cyclamen intaminatum precedes C hederifolium, then C graecum, C cilicicum follows it, along with C rolfsianum, then C persicum, then C coum, then alpinum, then C repandum and its relatives, then C purpurescens in summer apoligies for my misspelling earlier. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 9:27 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Yes, there are usually a very few flowers on this Cyclamen throughout > the year, but it gets too dry for them in summer, so the main flowering > season is in winter. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Sun Aug 28 23:04:07 2011 Message-Id: <4E5AB964.901@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming now Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 09:55:48 +1200 Mine are definitely not the hederifolium ones. No auricles. So Cyclamen Persicum it is. Thank you Peter. I tried a bigger Cyclamen at one stage, but had no luck with that one, so I stay with these. On 29/08/2011 8:49 a.m., Peter Taggart wrote: > The auricles on the flower of Cycleman hederifolium are diagnostic, > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cyclamen_hederifolium_prominent_auricles.jpg, > as is the coiling of the stem for the seed capsule. The drooping stem > is > diagnostic for Cycleman persicum, as is winter flowering, Hederifolium has > its main flowering BEFORE winter and will do so regardless of drought. Both > are marvelous plants. > Cyclamen intaminatum precedes C hederifolium, then C graecum, C cilicicum > follows it, along with C rolfsianum, then C persicum, then C coum, then > alpinum, then C repandum and its relatives, then C purpurescens in summer > apoligies for my misspelling earlier. > Peter (UK) > > On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 9:27 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> Yes, there are usually a very few flowers on this Cyclamen throughout >> the year, but it gets too dry for them in summer, so the main flowering >> season is in winter. >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:54 2011 Message-Id: <45E5A9C804C14D839ABDEC3C62811B75@greg32d9eee6c2> From: "Greg Ruckert" Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 08:23:18 +0930 Hi Roland, have sent a message to Dirk asking him to contact you. Greg Ruckert Nairne, South Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "bulborum botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:44 AM Subject: [pbs] Dirk wallace Australia Is there one of the members who knows something from Dirk Wallace Australia I try to reach him sins a long time without result He is contributor for the wiki see text below Roland Dirk Wallace I have had a passion for growing plants most of my life. My first obsession was with orchids and bromeliads, but I found that I needed a glasshouse to grow the more 'unusual ones' that I wanted to grow. In 1996 I discovered the facinating world of bulbs, and I've been hooked ever since! My main interests are in the Iridaceae and Liliaceae (particularly the Hyacinthaceae) families, but I'm keen on all geophytes, and I'm usually tempted to give anything a try! South African and South American genera hold the most interest, but I'm also very keen on many other's. Some genera I grow include: Albuca, Alophia, Arisaema, Aristea, Babiana, Calochortus, Cypella, Erythronium, Eucomis, Ferraria, Fritillaria, Gladiolus, Habranthus, Iris, Lachenalia, Massonia, Moraea, Oxalis, Romulea, Tigridia, Trillium, Veltheimia, Watsonia and Zephyranthes. I have a mail order list of bulbs and seed, Border Gateway Bulbs. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:54 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:14:53 -0700 Hello Jerry I like Jims thoughts on this ! One of my job rolls in the 80s was quality control in a massive wholesale nursery & i had a fascination at the time with variegated viral infections that cause variegation in other wise healthy ornamental & native plants in perfect growing conditions, we supplied woolworths & coles supermarkets, so everything had to be perfect & the variegated plants were usually separated from the group for experimentation or dumped. So i started to collect them & work on keeping the variegated viral strains in circulation for development for the nursery industry. I see many of my babies that were traded with others & are in nurseries & gardens today. I had many species that were very unusual to see as variegated & was very successful at keeping them that way by simply removing enough of the green foliage that the virus could stay dominant, while balancing enough green material for photosynthesis. This may be quite difficult to do in clivias because they tend to be slower growing, like a low light environment & are pretty tough, so they will easily out grow the virus in comfortable growing conditions. Good on u for having a healthy garden :-) Some times they do not revert so easilly & will stay variegated for much longer but its often a game of cat & mouse. It would definetaly be worth the experiment to start removing some of the green leaf material, the virus effected leaves might support more cloriphill to survive in time & you can remove more green leaf, eventually the virus may take over again. Its a fun experiment & would be cool to know if it works 4 u..... Happy Gardening ! Steven On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 11:08 AM, wrote: > Hi, can anyone tell me why clivia seedlings--Jerry Lehmann > Olathe, KS, USA > _______________________________________________ > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:54 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Ipomoea hybrid Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:59:40 -0700 Some words of wisdom 4 u Dennis !* " outsmart the bees !!" haha...* When i'm cross pollinating & dont want the pollen on the plant i want to cross i wake up before the bugs & as a flower opens in the sunlight & snip the pollen nodules off before they burst....Then when u x pollinate & dont want bees spoiling your fun. Try gently draping a tissue across the flower & tape the tissue to its self so bugs cant get in....dont tape around the flower stem & u can gently tare the tissue away in a faw days...keep it dry too. Have fun ! Steven On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 8:24 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > For years I've daydreamed about using Ipomoea pandurataI think it's > smothered with pollen > already! Good grief. > > > Any words of wisdom from the PBS forum? :-) > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:54 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 01:09:38 +0000 > One of my job rolls in the 80s was quality control in a massive wholesale > nursery & i had a fascination at the time with variegated viral infections > that cause variegation in other wise healthy ornamental & native plants in > perfect growing conditions, we supplied woolworths & coles supermarkets, so > everything had to be perfect & the variegated plants were usually separated > from the group for experimentation or dumped. So i started to collect them & > work on keeping the variegated viral strains in circulation for development > for the nursery industry. I see many of my babies that were traded with > others & are in nurseries & gardens today. I had many species that were very > unusual to see as variegated & was very successful at keeping them that way > by simply removing enough of the green foliage that the virus could stay > dominant, while balancing enough green material for photosynthesis. > > This may be quite difficult to do in clivias because they tend to be slower > growing, like a low light environment & are pretty tough, so they will > easily out grow the virus in comfortable growing conditions. Good on u for > having a healthy garden :-) Some times they do not revert so easilly & will > stay variegated for much longer but its often a game of cat & mouse. > > It would definetaly be worth the experiment to start removing some of the > green leaf material, the virus effected leaves might support more cloriphill > to survive in time & you can remove more green leaf, eventually the virus > may take over again. Its a fun experiment & would be cool to know if it > works 4 u....." THIS IS ABSOLUTELY MIND BOGGLING!!! TO THINK THAT SERIOUS GROWERS ARE AT PAINS TRYING TO HAVE THEIR COLLECTIONS HEALTHY!!!! From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:55 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 18:33:26 -0700 Hi Alberto P.S we never had any trouble with these type of viral variegation spreading from plant to plant even amongst rows of several thousand plants, over 1 to 3 year growing periods. Reproduction was always done by cutting or cloning... I'd be interested to know why its not transferable "or is it" if any one has a more scientific explanation... Steven On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 6:09 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > _______________________________________________ > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:55 2011 Message-Id: <20110829022843.31D92E8B4F@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Northern California meeting Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:22:51 -0700 Thanks to all of you from Northern California who came to the meeting yesterday. It was really fun to meet you and to put names and faces together. We got a early look at the Pacific Bulb Society bookmarks which are very nice and had some very handsome plants on display. I expect we all came home with some new treasures as people shared plants, seeds, pots, pasta sauce, jam, and lunch. Those of you who have been members of this list for awhile know how much our group cherishes food and discussion of the same. Thanks to Nhu for organizing this event. He was clever also to find a picnic area in the sunshine. It was amazing to drive three hours in the fog wondering how many people would hang around for a picnic in that weather and minutes before we reached our destination to have the weather change. Those of us present would like to meet again. I encourage some of the rest of you in other areas to consider arranging to meet with each other informally. Mary Sue From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:55 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 07:35:11 +0200 Thanks Allan and Greg I hoped he knew somebody who has C.luteolum Roland 2011/8/29 Greg Ruckert : > Hi Roland, have sent a message to Dirk asking him to contact you. > Greg Ruckert > Nairne, > South Australia > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bulborum botanicum" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:44 AM > Subject: [pbs] Dirk wallace Australia > > > Is there one of the members who knows something from Dirk Wallace Australia > I try to reach him sins a long time without result > He is contributor for the wiki see text below > > Roland > > Dirk Wallace > > I have had a passion for growing plants most of my life. My first > obsession was with orchids and bromeliads, but I found that I needed a > glasshouse to grow the more 'unusual ones' that I wanted to grow. In > 1996 I discovered the facinating world of bulbs, and I've been hooked > ever since! > > My main interests are in the Iridaceae and Liliaceae (particularly the > Hyacinthaceae) families, but I'm keen on all geophytes, and I'm > usually tempted to give anything a try! South African and South > American genera hold the most interest, but I'm also very keen on many > other's. Some genera I grow include: Albuca, Alophia, Arisaema, > Aristea, Babiana, Calochortus, Cypella, Erythronium, Eucomis, > Ferraria, Fritillaria, Gladiolus, Habranthus, Iris, Lachenalia, > Massonia, Moraea, Oxalis, Romulea, Tigridia, Trillium, Veltheimia, > Watsonia and Zephyranthes. > > I have a mail order list of bulbs and seed, Border Gateway Bulbs. > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email: bulborum@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 07:40:21 +0100 are you sure that variagation in clivias is viral !!! ???????????????????????????????????????????? Peter (UK) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:56 2011 Message-Id: From: "Alan O'Leary" Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:00:48 +0930 Hi Roland Suggest you contact seller in link below who was recently selling Crinum luteolum on Ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160628232617 Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: "bulborum botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Dirk wallace Australia Thanks Allan and Greg I hoped he knew somebody who has C.luteolum Roland 2011/8/29 Greg Ruckert : > Hi Roland, have sent a message to Dirk asking him to contact you. > Greg Ruckert > Nairne, > South Australia > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bulborum botanicum" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 12:44 AM > Subject: [pbs] Dirk wallace Australia > > > Is there one of the members who knows something from Dirk Wallace > Australia > I try to reach him sins a long time without result > He is contributor for the wiki see text below > > Roland > > Dirk Wallace > > I have had a passion for growing plants most of my life. My first > obsession was with orchids and bromeliads, but I found that I needed a > glasshouse to grow the more 'unusual ones' that I wanted to grow. In > 1996 I discovered the facinating world of bulbs, and I've been hooked > ever since! > > My main interests are in the Iridaceae and Liliaceae (particularly the > Hyacinthaceae) families, but I'm keen on all geophytes, and I'm > usually tempted to give anything a try! South African and South > American genera hold the most interest, but I'm also very keen on many > other's. Some genera I grow include: Albuca, Alophia, Arisaema, > Aristea, Babiana, Calochortus, Cypella, Erythronium, Eucomis, > Ferraria, Fritillaria, Gladiolus, Habranthus, Iris, Lachenalia, > Massonia, Moraea, Oxalis, Romulea, Tigridia, Trillium, Veltheimia, > Watsonia and Zephyranthes. > > I have a mail order list of bulbs and seed, Border Gateway Bulbs. > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email: bulborum@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:56 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 01:33:35 -0700 Hello Peter Well a curly question about viruses ha......judging by all your question marks, u need your answer desperately haha........ Variegation is caused by mutation in the plant's chromoplasts & It can only be inherited from the ovary parent in clivias. Virus, chemical stress & gamma radiation are common causes & malnutrition can be an accelerant. Wild clivias have been recorded, with viral variegation but it is very rare. It would be more likely seen in huge commercial growing conditions, like in China, where there are possible keys that allow the infection to take hold, like chemical interruption of cellular growth & malnutrition is usually not a problem in nurseries but erratic feeding may be a key also. Like i said i was experimenting with ornamental & Australian natives, so I'm only offering my personal experience. We didn't grow clivias so i haven't seen it happen first hand with a clivia. But basicly the same rules will apply. If anyone would like to add, its an interesting & subject ? Happy Gardening from Australia ! Steven On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 11:40 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > are you sure that variagation in clivias is viral !!! > ???????????????????????????????????????????? > Peter (UK) > _______________________________________________ > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 11:25:56 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Dirk wallace Australia Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 02:17:47 -0700 I grow both, the beautiful & unusual, white Crinum Flaceedum from SE Queensland & its interesting cousin the yellow Crinum luteolum from Western Australia, the only yellow crinum in the world. I probably dont have anything available right now, the seeding season is well over & all are planted & growing, making them too small to send to u or they will definitely die. They are rare & expensive & extremely hard to find for sale, even in Australia. If u cant find one, i might be able to help u in the future. Keep an eye out, i will be listing only a few for sale & swapping when seeds develop this summer. I do occasionally sell bulbs but under appropriate quarantine declaration rules only ! Best of luck ! Steven (Australia) P.S i've bought seeds from u on ebay before i think :-) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 15:25:58 2011 Message-Id: From: Subject: Hippeastrum leaf problems Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:21:27 +0200 Hi, Thank you Jerry! I did not even realize of such a physiological problem in plants. And it is very probable. All the descriptions I have googled out from the Net are very similar to the symptoms I have been observing. Marek Walnik Glucholazy, Poland http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/amaryllidaceae.html (site in Polish but pictures and links more international) -----Oryginalna wiadomosc----- From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 8:05 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Hippeastrum leaf problems Could it be oedema? Especially if it looks like it is drying out. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 16:41:00 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:30:11 -0400 I agree with Alberto, I can't imagine anyone would want to spread the viral infections considering how hard some of us work to keep our collections clean! I do not think ALL variegation in Clivia is due to virus, I'm sure some is due to genetics! Jim Shields I'm sure can explain this! Josh On Sun, Aug 28, 2011 at 9:09 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > > One of my job rolls in the 80s was quality control in a massive wholesale > > nursery & i had a fascination at the time with variegated viral > infections > > that cause variegation in other wise healthy ornamental & native plants > in > > perfect growing conditions, we supplied woolworths & coles supermarkets, > so > > everything had to be perfect & the variegated plants were usually > separated > > from the group for experimentation or dumped. So i started to collect > them & > > work on keeping the variegated viral strains in circulation for > development > > for the nursery industry. I see many of my babies that were traded with > > others & are in nurseries & gardens today. I had many species that were > very > > unusual to see as variegated & was very successful at keeping them that > way > > by simply removing enough of the green foliage that the virus could stay > > dominant, while balancing enough green material for photosynthesis. > > > > This may be quite difficult to do in clivias because they tend to be > slower > > growing, like a low light environment & are pretty tough, so they will > > easily out grow the virus in comfortable growing conditions. Good on u > for > > having a healthy garden :-) Some times they do not revert so easilly & > will > > stay variegated for much longer but its often a game of cat & mouse. > > > > It would definetaly be worth the experiment to start removing some of the > > green leaf material, the virus effected leaves might support more > cloriphill > > to survive in time & you can remove more green leaf, eventually the virus > > may take over again. Its a fun experiment & would be cool to know if it > > works 4 u....." > > THIS IS ABSOLUTELY MIND BOGGLING!!! > > TO THINK THAT SERIOUS GROWERS ARE AT PAINS TRYING TO HAVE THEIR COLLECTIONS > HEALTHY!!!! > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 17:40:49 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 11:23:13 -0500 Dear Friends, The following reply is modified slightly from a 2003 message on this list. It has been discussed often yet misinformation and just plain ignorance abounds. Think about it. Begin I am really shocked that you would believe that variegation in plants is due to virus. Really. Oxford University indexed hundreds of variegated plants and found that over 90% were due to somatic mutations (chimeral mutants) and less than 5 % were not determined or viral. Viral plants are mostly ill and do not grow well or survive for long. Their discoloration is a symptom of sickness; the kinds of streaks and spots that we can find in sick bulbs and plants of all kind. The fact that the good folks at Terra Nova and Collector's "find" variegated plants is because they book look very hard for it and these mutants often show up in tissue culture. Nurseries do not sell viral/sick plants. This information is not new or startling, but has been published over and over again. Variegation is not a sickness. It is a genetic characteristic that often allows some variegated plants to be propagated by seed and always by traditional vegetative propagation. Chimeral variegation does not (never) 'jump' from one plant to another. I hate to see this misinformation passed along so easily without a strong "whoa'! It just ain't so!! Don't mean to jump on anyone, but there is a large body of people who think that variegation equals sickness: NOT SO; virus equals sickness. Best Jim W. End Added: Most plant variegates are periclinal chimeras (Look it up) composed of distinct layers and bands of different tissues. Some of these grow better than others (i.e. often those with more chlorophyll). Depending on the specific nature of the anatomy, green portions can overtake non-green sections and seem to 'grow out' of variegation. Many of these variegates are simply unstable and should not be sold or distributed as stable cvs. Diseases are spread from plant to plant, genetic variegation can not be spread to another plant. Time to think smartly. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 17:55:49 2011 Message-Id: <8CE348243042788-910-34FDE@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 12:45:58 -0400 What about the boon of "virused" variegated Tulips, Roses, and Orchids? I don't have a variegated rose, but I have variegated Tulips, and a variegated Phalaenopsis, all of which are very healthy, robust, and do not infect anything else - including other Tulips near them. Also, I'm still wondering why those Clivias would gradually lose their variegation? If it was a genetic mutation, then it would not make sense on the genetic level for that to "mutate back to a normal type." ? Am I missing something? That, to me, seems like saying that an albino animal would turn "normal" over time, which obviously isn't the case. (That said, variegation in Clivias definitely does change - I've seen plants with little variegation, "get" more variegated over time - we're talking about the same leaves, not subsequent ones. The same thing is happening to my Monstera deliciosa, which has very strange lime green blotches, which are only becoming more prominent (and each new leaf has the same characteristic.) Should I get a normal one and put it next to mine and see what happens? Aloes and Haworthias often appear all green, and then all of a sudden, it's producing variegated pups. I'm sure there could be plenty of discussion here. Jude From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 18:25:50 2011 Message-Id: <1314638119.67213.YahooMailRC@web83608.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: Northern California meeting Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 10:15:19 -0700 (PDT) It was my pleasure to attend.  How wonderful to get to put faces with names and get to know those who are in our area.  Lots of plants, great food and awesome company!  Let's do it again soon! I second Mary Sue's thanks to Nhu and Jacob for all their hard work. Marilyn ________________________________ From: Mary Sue Ittner To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sun, August 28, 2011 7:22:51 PM Subject: [pbs] Northern California meeting Thanks to all of you from Northern California who came to the meeting yesterday. It was really fun to meet you and to put names and faces together. We got a early look at the Pacific Bulb Society bookmarks which are very nice and had some very handsome plants on display. I expect we all came home with some new treasures as people shared plants, seeds, pots, pasta sauce, jam, and lunch. Those of you who have been members of this list for awhile know how much our group cherishes food and discussion of the same. Thanks to Nhu for organizing this event. He was clever also to find a picnic area in the sunshine. It was amazing to drive three hours in the fog wondering how many people would hang around for a picnic in that weather and minutes before we reached our destination to have the weather change. Those of us present would like to meet again. I encourage some of the rest of you in other areas to consider arranging to meet with each other informally. Mary Sue From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 18:25:50 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:23:51 +0000 Josh, there are a lot of Rhodea cultivars from Ai that are evidently virused and people admire their "beauty". At least, Rohdeas are not bulbs and have nothing to do with bulbs. A virus infecting an amaryllid is an "amaryllid virus" and the potential to impact on many years of work, expense and effort is dreadful. Chimeric tissue is what causes variegation in many plants, and this is not an infectious disease. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 18:40:50 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:34:14 +0000 "Nurseries do not sell viral/sick plants." These lines alone deserve the Hall of Fame, Jim, when so many cases of viral infection originate in commercial sources. They are not just going to dump a variety because the material gets infected. And the current line of research in Holland (for decades) has been finding cultivars that show no symptoms. Self explaining. Of course we have nurseries that sell healthy material and can be trusted. Lauw de Jager comes to the mind, Alan Horstmann, Rhoda, Dirk, Dash when he was in the business, etc, etc. but the fact that we have to mention those that sell healthy material is an indication of how things go. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 18:40:51 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:35:47 -0400 Alberto: Just curious where you saw research that indicates that rohdea variegation is virus induced. We've had several tested years ago, and none had any sign of virus. We have grown a wide collection of rohdeas for 40+ years and have never seen any plants that display the characteristics of a virus. We have always observed viral variegation patterns on plants to show up randomly, unlike the patterns on rohdea, or similarly aspidistra. The patterns on both these plants are seasonal, but never random. There has been great debate over what type of chimera rohdeas are, but I've never read anything that showed this patterning to be viral. Please enlighten us...thanks! Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 1:24 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Variegated Clivia seedlings Josh, there are a lot of Rhodea cultivars from Ai that are evidently virused and people admire their "beauty". At least, Rohdeas are not bulbs and have nothing to do with bulbs. A virus infecting an amaryllid is an "amaryllid virus" and the potential to impact on many years of work, expense and effort is dreadful. Chimeric tissue is what causes variegation in many plants, and this is not an infectious disease. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 19:25:52 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Variegated Clivia seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:14:17 -0400 Alberto, Similar to the "Rembrandt" tulip cultivars that were grown for the beauty but ignored of their sickness? Also, Chimeric tissue in plants meaning two sets of genetically different cells or is it different? Jude, A friend of mine had a Hippeastrum papilio that threw out a variegated pup, this bulb was tested for viral infection several times and was negative and eventually reverted to a normal green plant in due time. I had the same variegation in Hippeastrum stylosum that was also free of viral infection and would occasionally contain all green leaves. On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 1:23 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Josh, there are a lot of Rhodea cultivars from Ai that are evidently > virused and people admire their "beauty". At least, Rohdeas are not bulbs > and have nothing to do with bulbs. > > A virus infecting an amaryllid is an "amaryllid virus" and the potential to > impact on many years of work, expense and effort is dreadful. > > Chimeric tissue is what causes variegation in many plants, and this is not > an infectious disease. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 20:25:53 2011 Message-Id: <2BBA455D90014227AB827AA4D9A3A229@MarekKomputer> From: Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:19:34 +0200 Maybe it's a question of chimerism, like in Dieffenbachia picta and other plants? Marek Walnik Glucholazy, Poland -----Oryginalna wiadomosc----- From: The Silent Seed Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 6:45 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Variegation Also, I'm still wondering why those Clivias would gradually lose their variegation? If it was a genetic mutation, then it would not make sense on the genetic level ... From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 20:55:54 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:54:31 +0100 perhaps the green tissue is simply stronger growing - enough so to mask the paler stripes? On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 8:19 PM, wrote: > > Maybe it's a question of chimerism, like in Dieffenbachia picta and other > plants? > > Marek Walnik > Glucholazy, Poland > > -----Oryginalna wiadomosc----- > From: The Silent Seed > Sent: Monday, August 29, 2011 6:45 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Variegation > > Also, I'm still wondering why those Clivias would gradually lose their > variegation? If it was a genetic mutation, then it would not make sense on > the genetic level ... > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 21:10:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:06:25 +0100 Thanks for posting your reply Jim, this is what my understanding of the stripes in Clivias Aspidistras, Convalaria and so on represent, also mottling in plants such as Haemanthus, Occuba, Aspidistra.... And the reason for all my question marks. I am not in a position to go into details of cell composition in reply to Steves first response to me as I dont have the scientific knowledge, (unless I call on my friend who happens to be a virologist ;p) " Added: Most plant variegates are periclinal chimeras (Look it up) composed of distinct layers and bands of different tissues. Some of these grow better than others (i.e. often those with more chlorophyll). Depending on the specific nature of the anatomy, green portions can overtake non-green sections and seem to 'grow out' of variegation. Many of these variegates are simply unstable and should not be sold or distributed as stable cvs." > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 21:40:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:35:23 +0100 I once bought some neo tulips and one had a stripy flower, I binned it. the next year three had stripy flowers. I had about fifteen flowering sized bulbs by then. I dug out and binned the striped ones. That year I potted each bulb seperately. Every one was stripy. I got rid of the lot. Fortunately the virus had not got into the rest of my tulips. Perhaps because the virus was adapted to the neo tulip it was attacking? but the stripes in virused tulips CAN spread Jude. I don't know if the broken flowers in Roses, Camelias, and so on are virus related but I doubt it. Peter (UK) On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 5:45 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > What about the boon of "virused" variegated Tulips, Roses, and Orchids? I > don't have a variegated rose, but I have variegated Tulips, and a variegated > Phalaenopsis, all of which are very healthy, robust, and do not infect > anything else - including other Tulips near them. > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 21:55:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:41:25 -0400 Peter, I've heard that the newer varities of Tulips have been bred to have these lines and aren't virused, can anyone provide more information on this subject? Josh On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 4:35 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > I once bought some neo tulips and one had a stripy flower, I binned it. the > next year three had stripy flowers. I had about fifteen flowering sized > bulbs by then. I dug out and binned the striped ones. That year I potted > each bulb seperately. Every one was stripy. I got rid of the lot. > Fortunately the virus had not got into the rest of my tulips. Perhaps > because the virus was adapted to the neo tulip it was attacking? but the > stripes in virused tulips CAN spread Jude. I don't know if the broken > flowers in Roses, Camelias, and so on are virus related but I doubt it. > Peter (UK) > > On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 5:45 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > > > > What about the boon of "virused" variegated Tulips, Roses, and Orchids? I > > don't have a variegated rose, but I have variegated Tulips, and a > variegated > > Phalaenopsis, all of which are very healthy, robust, and do not infect > > anything else - including other Tulips near them. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 21:55:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:54:51 +0100 Sorry I don't know anything about that Josh, perhaps someone has perfected a tissue graft to produce an effect like a labernocytisus wher two sets of cells grow along side each other, but more likely there are tulips with patterned flowers in nature that have been selected and bred to give a striped effect. There are many 'stripy' tulips in nature without virus. On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 9:41 PM, Joshua Young wrote: > Peter, > > I've heard that the newer varities of Tulips have been bred to have > these lines and aren't virused, can anyone provide more information on this > subject? > > Josh > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 22:10:55 2011 Message-Id: <1314652110.74168.YahooMailNeo@web65910.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:08:30 -0700 (PDT) I think the amount of variegation can also be affected by fertilizer type and amount of shade.  I had a variegated banana that used to burn on the white parts, and I put it in some rather strong shade, the variegation lessened quite a bit.  The next summer it was in more sun, and grew much more variegated.  I've heard of others that used a high nitrogen fertilizer and the variegated bananas got much more green. I've had some variegated Clivias for over 10 years, there is only one plant that is not strongly variegated. None of the plants have changed variegation amounts significantly over that time. How old and how many leaves did the Clivias have when they reverted? Susan B East TN From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 22:40:56 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Variegation - Enough already Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:25:31 -0500 Dear PBS friends, It pains me to write this, but this is NOT a botany site. I think we have beat the topic to death on multiple and various occasions. Although there are always new and uninformed growers the basic science is readily available on the internet elsewhere ! We have talked about broken colors in tulips (Rembrandts) before, We've talked about variegated foliage before, etc etc. Let's talk bulbs. Use google for basic science info. Today's the start of a new week what's blooming where you live. I bet EVERY member has some bulb blooming in the garden, in a pot, at the garden center - what is it and where? I' contribute next. Getting on with bulbs talk Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 22:40:56 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:25:38 -0500 Dear Friends, Even without added rain, pots of Zephyranthes candida are blooming like crazy. They seem to fill gallon nursery pots every day or two from edge to edge. Here's a simple non-hardy bulb that requires very little effort and performs like a champ . I suppose I will thin the bulbs later (look out BX) and add some fresh soil. The star of the garden continues to be Lycoris. My first Lycoris squamigera started about the first of the month (Aug) and they are at their last ragged blooms, but there are still a few L. longituba, sprengeri and hybrids finishing up. The next round starring L. incarnata are about done, but the current round's star is L. caldwellii. The early ones are in full bloom and later blooming plants are still emerging from the ground. I 'think' emergence is based on a variety of factors. Rain is foremost, but with L. caldwellii at least I think there are other factors as well, but all water related - more or less sun, proximity to water sucking roots of trees, etc. At this rate I'll have 2 weeks of bloom on this species along bringing the season to a minimum of five weeks. I never count on L. radiata or L. houdeyshellii. These are the only fall foliage species to survive here and they are very uneven to bloom. I think they both need both more sun and more moisture. I know other people around here can bloom L. radiata every year in better sites. I must move these some time. With our summer still bouncing near 100 regularly and drought just the way of things, nothing else is doing much and even seed production seems reduced. If we get some rain I expect to see some fall crocus soon and reblooming iris. Anyone else still blooming Lycoris somewhere? Jim S, Kelly ? Best wishes. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Mon Aug 29 22:55:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:52:24 -0400 Susan, I'm not really sure how old that's happened to Clivia but my Hippeastrum reverted within a year or so after they started growing out variegated, it was quite sad, they looked so cool with the variegated leaves and SADLY I was hoping to have pictures of my H. papilio blooming with the variegated leaves. On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 5:08 PM, Susan B wrote: > I think the amount of variegation can also be affected by fertilizer type > and amount of shade. I had a variegated banana that used to burn on the > white parts, and I put it in some rather strong shade, the variegation > lessened quite a bit. The next summer it was in more sun, and grew much > more variegated. I've heard of others that used a high nitrogen fertilizer > and the variegated bananas got much more green. > > I've had some variegated Clivias for over 10 years, there is only one plant > that is not strongly variegated. None of the plants have changed variegation > amounts significantly over that time. > > How old and how many leaves did the Clivias have when they reverted? > Susan B > East TN > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:03 2011 Message-Id: <4E5C153E.2010804@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Variegation - Enough already Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 10:39:58 +1200 Actually, yes for the knowledgeable ones, Google would be fine, but I have found the botanic discussion enlightening. Being not one of the knowledgeable ones, I would not even have thought of Googling it, would have thought it always is virus. I think I have thrown out a bulb which quite possibly was not virused and as I not likely to be able to get another one of the kind, that is a pity. Ina Crossley On 30/08/2011 9:25 a.m., James Waddick wrote: > Dear PBS friends, > It pains me to write this, but this is NOT a botany site. > > I think we have beat the topic to death on multiple and > various occasions. Although there are always new and uninformed > growers the basic science is readily available on the internet > elsewhere ! > > We have talked about broken colors in tulips (Rembrandts) > before, We've talked about variegated foliage before, etc etc. > > Let's talk bulbs. > > Use google for basic science info. > > Today's the start of a new week what's blooming where you > live. I bet EVERY member has some bulb blooming in the garden, in a > pot, at the garden center - what is it and where? I' contribute next. > > Getting on with bulbs talk Jim W. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:09 2011 Message-Id: <187BD70CAA644764AA06B0EBEFA8AD30@greg32d9eee6c2> From: "Greg Ruckert" Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 08:11:22 +0930 Apart from various Daffodills, Lachenalis and Muscari sp., Velthemia bracteata is looking great. Kniphoffia flowers just starting to open. Amorphophallus henryi is at its stinking best. Greg Ruckert Nairne, South Australia From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:06 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 23:53:11 +0100 A few alliums flowering here including beesianum, several Colchicums, alpinum, aff stevenii, kotchyi... graecum is long over . A Biarum is in bloom, the Pinellas are more or less over and setting seeds. a Massonia is taking ages to open. My only Lycoris is a new aquisition of radiata and it is coming up strongly, potted deeply. I shall probably plant it out in the spring. Flowers still on Cyclemans purpurescens,as well as hederifolium, probably cilicium too but I haven't checked yet. Nerine bowdenii is sending up scapes but none yet on N gibsonii though it is looking stronger now, having only just survived a record low here of near -18 C! Peter (UK) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:06 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 16:01:26 -0700 Thanks Jim That explains why it never jumped from plant to plant. The people i worked for always told us it was virus caused, but they sprayed big amounts of bad chemicals & herbicides like they were going out of fashion, so is it likely this was all caused by the chemical effects only & there was no virus at all ? Steven Australia On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 9:23 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends, > The following reply is modified slightly from a 2003 message > on this list. It has been discussed often yet misinformation and just > plain ignorance abounds. Think about it. > > > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:08 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegation - Enough already Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:21:56 -0700 I agree Ina, I thought this site was to share knowledge, experience & discussion not just plants & photographs. Please someone tell me if i have misunderstood what the PBS site is for ? I wouldn't want to be the one to spoil a private club ! I joined because i was told how lovely & helpful everyone is. PBS offers potentially many hundreds of years of collective knowledge within members. I offered no wrong or wright explanation in the first place, so i don't understand why i would be accused of spreading misinformation. As i explained in the first place, i have no experience with variegated clivia , i only offered an experience i had in life, some "possible" answers & what i thought would be a cool experiment to try. Most members seem happy to share their knowledge to help others enjoy a greater understanding, we are not all scientists or scholars, though we all deserve the right to strive, to learn & share our experiences too. O what a joy it must be to the people who are always wright : -) Steven On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Actually, yes for the knowledgeable ones, Google would be fine, but I > have found the botanic discussion enlightening. Being not one of the > knowledgeable ones, I would not even have thought of Googling it, would > have thought it always is virus. I think I have thrown out a bulb which > quite possibly was not virused and as I not likely to be able to get > another one of the kind, that is a pity. > > Ina Crossley > > On 30/08/2011 9:25 a.m., James Waddick wrote: > > Dear PBS friends, > > It pains me to write this, but this is NOT a botany site. > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:08 2011 Message-Id: <4dc6.40f524dd.3b8d8c33@aol.com> From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Subject: Variegated Clivia Seedlings Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:43:31 -0400 (EDT) Thanks to all for the input. And just to add a bit more, not only do the plants become solid green, as in the new leaves becoming solid green, but old variegated leaves become green. And they are grown side by side with the plants that never loose their variegation. I have never seen a variegated clivia, which has become green, become variegated again. Thanks, Jim, for the best answer in my opinion. --Jerry Lehmann Olathe, KS, USA From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:09 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Variegation Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:51:33 -0700 Its true Alberto, My bosses treated all mutations like gold, kept them secret like spy documents & had no concerns about the environment, spreading problems, or anything else, only $$$$ mattered. They certainly weren't the only ones doing it. There were many & a number of other mutations were collected too. Josh is right, they never spread from one to another, only reproduction was successful. Although i understand what Jim says about chemicals or stress being the causes, which i explained my self, but I have to ask, if chemical damage & stress was the only cause, how did we reproduce several thousand super healthy plants, perfect replicas from cutting & they kept the trait for decades until this day ? What an interesting mistery.... Well thanks every one ! Steven On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 10:34 AM, Alberto Castillo < ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com> wrote: > > "Nurseries do not > sell viral/sick plants." > > These lines alone deserve the Hall of Fame, Jim, when so many cases of > viral infection originate in commercial sources. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:09 2011 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: What's in bloom today Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:58:14 -0400 Here in Central Massachusetts, the Cyclamen hederifolium are starting to bloom in the garden, but no growth on the greenhouse Cyclamen yet - with cooler temperatures expected at night this week, I expect that they will begin shortly. Acis autumnalis in the alpine bed looked stunning, this evening. Galtonia candicans just finishing in the perennial border A clump of Agapanthus 'Storm Cloud' that I divided four years ago, and planted a few in the front garden, is up again and budded - remember, I am in Zone 5. In containers, I have: Nerine falcata in bud and opening, it finally split and divided this year, so I thought that it would skip a year, but smaller than average bud has emerged. Nerine massonorium ( about 1/3rd the amount of flowers as compared to last year) Zephyrathes candida, like everyone else. A small pot that I abuse, but it still blooms like crazy. Agapanthus inapertus - this always blooms late in the season for me. The flowers are so dark, that I can rarely photograph them correctly. Tulbaghia violacea just finishing, I isolated all of the white-blooming seedlings into containers of their own. Some Velthiemia bracteata are starting to show green leaves. The Acis autumnalis in the alpine bed looked stunning, this evening. Galtonia candicans just finishing in the perennial border, I may cut them down this weekend. As for Lycoris? No luck. I am quite jealous of everyone else...I planted 50 Lycoris shared by a friend in Kansas, but not one came up. Large, healthy bulbs too. I tried planting in more protected areas near the foundation of the greenhouse, but the heavy winter snows may have been too wet this past winter. At one point, they snow was taller than I was in this spot since it slid off of the greenhouse. I started the autumnal watering cycle with my Nerine sarniensis in the greenhouse today, a week early, for two reasons. 1. We are expecting cold nights starting tonight ( after the Hurricane) and 2. I am hosting a NARGS cocktail party at the end of September, and thought that I might force them to bloom early. The Brunsvigia species, which have been upgraded to large 40" diameter tubs, were moved outdoors to take advantage of the hurricane rains. Maybe they will bloom for the NARGS event too! The bulbs are very large this year after the upgrade. Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USA ZONE 5B On 8/29/11 5:25 PM, "James Waddick" wrote: - what is it and where? I' contribute next. > > Getting on with bulbs talk Jim W. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:09 2011 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Spring Blooms Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:18:13 -0700 Hi everyone, its been a day of sadness for me because i had to put my beautiful gentle giant palomino horse Yarramin to sleep he was my friend for 32 years. So a stroll through the garden path has revealed a brighter day after a shower of rain or two ! Its late Winter here in sunny Queensland, but spring has sprung ! Heavy mist swirls throughout the mountains & rain drops are cooling the warmer days now, my first daffodils have flowered, Erlicheer have exploded into flower & for the first ever time i have Tahiti in full bloom, the buds were lime green & the bright yellow petals with their bright orange ruffled centers are radiating in the sunlight while they dance in the south easterly breeze. I only wish i knew how to show some photos. To add to the pretty scene there are 3 dark pink double flowering peaches intermingled with pale green & apricot angles trumpets filling the air with delightful fragrance. Below almost forgotten are pretty little white & canary yellow dutch crocus. The native crinums have secretly burst from the ground with growth in the 3 days while i was away at work & with 2 inches of rain to get them ready for spring, the flaccidum have grown 6inches since i went away this week. I love the garden what a fascinating place to be.......... Steven SE Qld Australia From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:11 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 22:30:30 -0500 Dear Friends, I forgot to mention a weed that is in bloom here and all about Kansas City gardens: Allium tuberosum or Garlic Chives. Not much of a bulb, but as an Allium I'll add it. It self seeds about and can make dense stands. I can never remember to harvest leaves or flowering stems, all of which are very edible and add a distinct flavor to Chinese foods. The white flowers do add a cheery spot to ignored parts of the garden. Yes I did plant it years ago and it still pops up here and there untended. Extremely easy. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:10 2011 Message-Id: <4E38950D-B734-4102-959D-F44F72D27929@verizon.net> From: Douglas Westfall Subject: What is blooming? Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:42:33 -0700 Here in Southern California where the weather has been "hotter" than usual, I have beautiful Haemanthus carneus and Haemanthus coccineus, Cyrtanthus purpureus X C. montanus (orange) and Rhodophialia bifida var. spathcea, and a miniature Haemanthus blooming. Add to that, I have two of the new succulents, Aloe Christmas Carol with their beautiful red flowers. Doug Westfall From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:10 2011 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: OT - Enough Already of the Enough already Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 21:01:06 -0700 Jim, I do not feel it is appropriate for you to try to bring discussions on relevant matters to a close in this manner. Feel free to suggest that people search the archives, internet etc., but don't try to stifle discussion. Who knows, you might even learn something. T From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 11:45:12 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Variegation - Enough already Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 07:05:07 +0100 Dear Jim, I agree that prolonged discussions may get boring, I also agree that the discussion has gone on long enough that interested people may now ask questions from either google, text books or botanists. However while you may have graduated from basic gardening through horticulture, and then botany, -or perhaps through chemistry then botany, others have yet to do so. If you don't take care of your Intake years and their basic knowledge, they will remain at a disadvantage for the rest of their bulb growing days, much to the detriment of the bulb growing world. Peter (UK) On Tue, Aug 30, 2011 at 1:21 AM, steven hart < hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com> wrote: > I agree Ina, I thought this site was to share knowledge, experience & > discussion not just plants & photographs. > Steven > > > On Mon, Aug 29, 2011 at 3:39 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > > > Actually, yes for the knowledgeable ones, Google would be fine, but I > > have found the botanic discussion enlightening. Being not one of the > > knowledgeable ones, I would not even have thought of Googling it, would > > have thought it always is virus. > > > On 30/08/2011 9:25 a.m., James Waddick wrote: > > > Dear PBS friends, > > > It pains me to write this, but this is NOT a botany site > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 18:43:47 2011 Message-Id: <1314725990.42888.YahooMailClassic@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: What's not quite in bloom yet, week of August 28th Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 10:39:50 -0700 (PDT) Two Brunsvigia josephinae ... probably 3 days yet from first bloom ...   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6094973903/   next shot also has 2 X'Boopharyllis' ... one in bloom, one initiating a scape ... in addition to a Brunsvigia josephinae scape ...   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6095514910/   Ken Blackford San Diego     From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Tue Aug 30 20:43:56 2011 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Tue, 30 Aug 2011 15:30:02 -0400 Just got internet back today. Lots of Zephyranthes citrina are blooming after all the rain. One bud of Eucharis amazonica made it through the storm and is now blooming even though the foliage is mush. A few random Zephyranthes also in bud or blooming in pink and white- and one "Old Valles Yellow" zephyranthes. A couple of Hymenocallis (native ones, Tropical Giant, Sister of Tropical Giant, etc.) putting up new buds. A few days after a Cat 3 storm I can appreciate wisdom of geophytes in keeping their heads protected. Today I just want a little shade. Regards, Phil Abaco, where the out islanders shrug off a Cat 3 hurricane quickly but the gardens take a bit longer. From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 18:14:41 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Scoliopus hallii Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 15:27:12 +0200 I am searching for a customer Scoliopus hallii is there somebody who knows a grower Thanks in advance Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 18:14:43 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Scoliopus hallii Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:36:41 -0400 Google's first page of search results shows several places selling it including two in UK. On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 9:27 AM, bulborum botanicum wrote: > I am searching for a customer Scoliopus hallii > is there somebody who knows a grower > > Thanks in advance > > Roland > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email:   bulborum@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 18:14:44 2011 Message-Id: <9986789DA5214EEDB3E15759BE35A54A@galanthophile> From: "Mark Smyth" Subject: Scoliopus hallii Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 15:27:09 +0100 Roland I have S. hallii seedlings but right now I don't know where they are. I will look for their pot Paul Christian is selling this plant but his photo shows S. biglowii Mark N Ireland ----- Original Message ----- From: "bulborum botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2011 2:27 PM Subject: [pbs] Scoliopus hallii I am searching for a customer Scoliopus hallii is there somebody who knows a grower Thanks in advance Roland -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 16093 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 18:14:47 2011 Message-Id: <1314808858.89230.YahooMailNeo@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Intergeneric hybrids Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:40:58 -0700 (PDT) So, I have some of the Brunsdonnas from the PBS distribution years ago. And I have to say, more and more flower each year and amaze me. This year, with inspiration from Ken's photos of his Boopharyllis, I have put pollen from my Boophane onto these plants. And just yesterday for the heck of it, I put pollen from a Crinum moorei on another plant. Do I have any chance of these hybrids taking? Are others making crosses with these 4 genera? Am I just fooling myself that I could get these even bigger and better? I did do crosses with Brunvigia littoralis pollen on them as well. John Ingram in Camarillo, CA, between Santa Barbara and L.A. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" New number >>> 805.914.9505 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 18:14:47 2011 Message-Id: <1314809271.32335.YahooMailNeo@web36208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: What's blooming Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 09:47:51 -0700 (PDT) Well, of course the Brunsdonnas, lots and lots of Sinningias, Sprekelia Red Orient', a few scattered rain lilies and that is about it. My Haemanthus carneus is just finishing and the H. coccineus are long gone. I moved my Rhodophiala bifida this spring so I am not expecting them to flower this year. The other Rhodophiala are still too small to flower. Since we built a new structure this year, I have been able to pot up a lot of compots that were cramped so I am expecting great growth this summer and maybe a lot more blooms next year. John Ingram in Camarillo, CA, between Santa Barbara and L.A. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" New number >>> 805.914.9505 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 19:14:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Scoliopus hallii Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 19:13:24 +0100 yes Roland, me but I'm not sure if I have any spare at the moment, if not, I'm sure you can get it from Edrom. On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 2:27 PM, bulborum botanicum wrote: > I am searching for a customer Scoliopus hallii > is there somebody who knows a grower > > Thanks in advance > > Roland > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email: bulborum@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 19:44:37 2011 Message-Id: <1314815901.42795.YahooMailClassic@web86304.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Scoliopus hallii Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 19:38:21 +0100 (BST) There are currently 6 UK suppliers, according to the RHS Plant Finder, although you should check with the nurseries direct. http://apps.rhs.org.uk/rhsplantfinder/pfregions.asp?ID=16893 Not sure where my seedlings are either.   Brian Whyer, Buckingahmshire, England, zone ~8 Nerine buds just showing --- On Wed, 31/8/11, bulborum botanicum wrote: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: [pbs] Scoliopus hallii To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Wednesday, 31 August, 2011, 14:27 I am searching for a customer Scoliopus hallii is there somebody who knows a grower Thanks in advance Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Wed Aug 31 20:14:38 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Whats blooming week of Aug 29 2011 Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2011 12:01:36 -0700 Hi everyone, Only one geophyte of note is in bloom. That is the first time blooming for me of Tigridia hallbergii. It is a beautiful species native to Mexico. It took 3 years to bloom from seeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6099297186 http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6099296934 Nhu Berkeley, CA