From oothal@hotmail.com Tue Mar 1 23:09:45 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: Gladiolus aquamontanus Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 22:09:43 -0600 Hi All, I have finally gotten some seeds of Gladiolus aquamontanus to germinate. I was wondering if anyone has any information about their growing cycle/conditions. Do they need a dry period or should they be kept moist/wet during dormancy. etc. Any info would be nice. Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a suffering from the driest winter in many many years. From pelarg@aol.com Wed Mar 2 16:47:34 2011 Message-Id: <8CDA73A8FDD394B-1E18-E744@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Gladiolus aquamontanus Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 16:47:29 -0500 (EST) I can't say this is the most vigorous gladiolus species I grow, but it never seems to want to go completely dormant, and the corms do not become really large, thusfar in my experience. I have not had it get to blooming size yet. In nature it grows in very wet locations, so I imagine culture must be something like for G. cardinalis, eg it never wants to be completely dry. I also doubt that it will enjoy Texas heat and humidity in summer, so it may be best to find as cool a location for it during that time as you can. Good luck. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY Some crocus and winter aconites are flowering now -----Original Message----- From: Justin Smith To: pbs Sent: Tue, Mar 1, 2011 11:09 pm Subject: [pbs] Gladiolus aquamontanus i All, have finally gotten some seeds of Gladiolus aquamontanus to germinate. I was ondering if anyone has any information about their growing cycle/conditions. o they need a dry period or should they be kept moist/wet during dormancy. etc. ny info would be nice. ustin oodville, TX 8b/9a uffering from the driest winter in many many years. ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From meneice@att.net Thu Mar 3 00:40:54 2011 Message-Id: From: Subject: Calochortus rescue Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2011 21:40:45 -0800 Mike, can you tell me if this is in Calif.? I contacted the Center of Plant Conservation and the director, Kathyrn Kennedy, tells me this Calochortus would be eligible to become part of their National Collection through one of their Participating Institutions. She suggested that Ranch Santa Ana Botanical Garden was probably the one with the most expertise in Calochortus species and, therefore, the one to contact about this. If this avenue is one you'd care to pursue, let me know and I will try to get further information for you. Shirley Meneice From msittner@mcn.org Thu Mar 3 10:12:43 2011 Message-Id: <20110303151241.4B65D4C067@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Eastern Cape Trip Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2011 07:11:20 -0800 Hi, This is my last post on our Eastern Cape Trip and the last page of Naude's Nek photos. When I used to think of bulbs from South Africa, I used to think of the bulb capital of the world at Nieuwoudtville and all the winter rainfall bulbs. But as my posts have shown there are many summer rainfall bulbs and some of them grow at high elevations. Ellen Hornig has found many of them quite hardy although she does have a cover of snow in winter. On the last Naude's Nek page are two Ornithogalums, a white one we couldn't identify and O. viridiflorum (Galtonia viridiflora). We saw some of the Oxalis we saw before. I've not been able to identify all of them. There aren't many Oxalis with umbelliform orange flowers and the one we saw in several places doesn't quite fit any of the descriptions. According to Christiaan, O. davyana is a large robust plant, O. semiloba is also a much bigger plant, and O. stenorrhyncha is supposed to be caulescent and glabrous and the plants we saw were not. If any of you have any ideas about the unidentified species please let me know. We also saw Rhodohypoxis on Naude's Nek. There are six Rhodohypoxis species and four of them are Drakensberg Mountain endemics. I've added descriptions of them from the Pooley Mountain Flowers book to the Rhodohypoxis wiki page, but I find the distinctions that help you tell them apart a bit of a challenge. When we made our nightly plant list after Naude's Nek we were told the species we saw on Naude's Nek was Rhodohypoxis rubella, but they looked like what I knew as R. baurii. Our final list had both of them on it. Rhoda was kind enough to send me some of Cameron's photos of some of the other species which he saw on other trips and I have added them. I am hoping someone will help me figure out if what we saw was R. baurii or R. rubella. The flowers are supposed to be much smaller on the latter and photographs don't really help you figure out sizes. On the summit growing in gravel we saw two Romuleas. Being a Romulea fan, I was quite excited about this. One of them is now apparently known as R. camerooniana although some of you may know it or see it in seed lists as R. campanuloides or R. thodei. One of our photos shows the two species growing together. We saw three more orchids, Satyriums, a Trachyandra, Tulbaghia montana on the summit, and two Wurmbeas, a very striking one with blotches, Wurmbea elatior, and a very tiny one growing in a very wet place, W. kraussii. The spots in the photos of it are water drops. This turned out to be a much bigger project than I envisioned when I thought it would be nice in our cold northern hemisphere months to look at summer hemisphere flowers, but our pbs wiki didn't have a lot of these plants included and now it does. Mary Sue From hornig@earthlink.net Thu Mar 3 11:18:38 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ellen Hornig" Subject: Eastern Cape Trip Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 11:19:10 -0500 Mary Sue - let me add my voice to the list of people thanking you for undertaking this project! I've enjoyed it immensely. I see you added a photo of Tritonia drakensbergensis to your latest page, so I want to mention that when I get organized I'm sending a bag of corms of this species to Dell for distribution. I have found it incredibly hardy here, where it forms a large colony and self-sows with ease, possibly too much so. I find that T. disticha, which looks like a larger version of T. drakensbergensis, also establishes and self sows with slightly frightening ease, but it doesn't multiply as much underground. Rhodohypoxis baurii does very well here in the open garden (clayey soil, raised area). The whites are not terribly vigorous, but the pinks have multiplied nicely. It's true: some of the eastern Cape bulbs are surprisingly hardy, at least under our generous snow cover. I believe I've posted lists before, so I won't repeat myself, but other easterners might want to try more of these in their gardens. We have extra snow available here if you need any (still 1-2 feet on the ground, compacted, and our season total is somewhere between 140-175 inches now). Ellen Ellen Hornig Oswego NY 13126 USA USDA zone 5b ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mary Sue Ittner" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2011 10:11 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Eastern Cape Trip > Hi, > > This is my last post on our Eastern Cape Trip and the last page of Naude's > Nek photos. When I used to think of bulbs from South Africa, I used to > think of the bulb capital of the world at Nieuwoudtville and all the > winter rainfall bulbs. But as my posts have shown there are many summer > rainfall bulbs and some of them grow at high elevations. Ellen Hornig has > found many of them quite hardy although she does have a cover of snow in > winter. > > On the last Naude's Nek page are two Ornithogalums, a white one we > couldn't identify and O. viridiflorum (Galtonia viridiflora). We saw some > of the Oxalis we saw before. I've not been able to identify all of them. > There aren't many Oxalis with umbelliform orange flowers and the one we > saw in several places doesn't quite fit any of the descriptions. According > to Christiaan, O. davyana is a large robust plant, O. semiloba is also a > much bigger plant, and O. stenorrhyncha is supposed to be caulescent and > glabrous and the plants we saw were not. If any of you have any ideas > about the unidentified species please let me know. > > We also saw Rhodohypoxis on Naude's Nek. There are six Rhodohypoxis > species and four of them are Drakensberg Mountain endemics. I've added > descriptions of them from the Pooley Mountain Flowers book to the > Rhodohypoxis wiki page, but I find the distinctions that help you tell > them apart a bit of a challenge. When we made our nightly plant list after > Naude's Nek we were told the species we saw on Naude's Nek was > Rhodohypoxis rubella, but they looked like what I knew as R. baurii. Our > final list had both of them on it. Rhoda was kind enough to send me some > of Cameron's photos of some of the other species which he saw on other > trips and I have added them. I am hoping someone will help me figure out > if what we saw was R. baurii or R. rubella. The flowers are supposed to be > much smaller on the latter and photographs don't really help you figure > out sizes. > > On the summit growing in gravel we saw two Romuleas. Being a Romulea fan, > I was quite excited about this. One of them is now apparently known as R. > camerooniana although some of you may know it or see it in seed lists as > R. campanuloides or R. thodei. One of our photos shows the two species > growing together. > > We saw three more orchids, Satyriums, a Trachyandra, Tulbaghia montana on > the summit, and two Wurmbeas, a very striking one with blotches, Wurmbea > elatior, and a very tiny one growing in a very wet place, W. kraussii. The > spots in the photos of it are water drops. > > This turned out to be a much bigger project than I envisioned when I > thought it would be nice in our cold northern hemisphere months to look at > summer hemisphere flowers, but our pbs wiki didn't have a lot of these > plants included and now it does. > > > Mary Sue > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu Mar 3 14:00:13 2011 Message-Id: <4D6FE53A.7010801@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: Eastern Cape Trip Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2011 11:00:10 -0800 Mary Sue, I too have been incredibly grateful for your reports. Thanks for all the work you've put in on this. From ds429@comcast.net Thu Mar 3 14:18:40 2011 Message-Id: <000001cbd9d7$c0dbfdf0$4293f9d0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 268 Date: Thu, 3 Mar 2011 14:18:17 -0500 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 268" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/item) (cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Robert Werra: SEED: 1. Calochortus vestae 2. Calochortus umbellatus 3. Calochortus plummerae, pink 4. Calochortus catalinae 5. Calochortus amoenus 6. Calochortus weedii, yellow 7. Calochortus amabilis From Gary Meltzer: 8. Seed of Clivia caulescens, OP (C. miniata nearby) From Antigoni Rentzeperi: 9. Seed of Pancratium maritimum Thank you, Bob, Gary, and Antigoni !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu Mar 3 21:09:17 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2011 18:09:10 -0800 Today I received my seeds from Jenny Archibald and sowed 65 species in the new potting shed, where the seed flats rest on shelves under glass. Many will not germinate until next year, but it's still chilly enough here in Portland, Oregon, that I think they'll experience one "winter" of moist chilling. The many Colchicum species I ordered may take several years, and then surprise me by popping up in response to some mysterious signal all within a few days. The vegetable seeds and annual seeds are waiting for a few weeks until hard frosts become less likely. An order from Chiltern's is eagerly awaited -- not bulbs, but even a tree or two that I couldn't find in any US nursery catalog. The new bulb house, with all the plants in deep raised beds, seems to be working well. The cold snap last week didn't kill anything that I can see (I put upside-down pots over the most vulnerable species), and many flowers are opening: Crocus species, the earliest Fritillarias, Hyacinthella and Hyacinthus, the first Romuleas, Gymnospermium ... and many buds evident, including some Erythronium. The beds look a little sparse, but I hope in a couple of years they'll be packed, thanks to a set-up that excludes predators. I gave them their first feed of spring -- the first of three -- this morning, mixing the soluble fertilizer with rainwater from the 1100-gallon storage tank just outside the bulb house. I also completed the raised sand bed surrounding the tank, which I hope will be a good home for Alstroemeria and Iris species, and perhaps a Daphne or two if I can keep the alstros off them. Long berms of soil await the arrival of many shrubs ordered for shipment in late March, and eventually I hope to interplant them with lilies -- something I couldn't do in the country because of the deer and rabbits. In the garden the Narcissus obvallaris ("Tenby daffodil") I brought from the country place are opening in the grass, along with crocuses and an assortment of spare bulbs that got thrown under the sod. The half-built rock garden is dotted with geophytes thanks to desperate measures and volunteers in the pile of old bulb potting soil I had brought from the old place. Narcissus romieuxii has flowered bravely through temperatures in the low 20s F. Another pleasant surprise is a plant of Dodecatheon clevelandii, from the California Coast Range, that has lifted its flowering stem twice after being flattened by frost and snow. Indeed, the hardiness of California geophytes never ceases to gratify me: never believe the ratings given them by the books. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From kjblack@pacbell.net Fri Mar 4 11:11:05 2011 Message-Id: <964740.71402.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 08:11:03 -0800 (PST) Sounds exciting, Jane!  Take some "before" pics ... as well as those of the Shooting Stars you described ... and share, if you can!  Wish I had gotten around to installing a rainbarrell system like yours.   Ken Blackford San Diego --- On Thu, 3/3/11, Jane McGary wrote: Today I received my seeds from Jenny Archibald and sowed 65 species in the new potting shed, where the seed flats rest on shelves under glass. Many will not germinate until next year, but it's still chilly enough here in Portland, Oregon, that I think they'll experience one "winter" of moist chilling. The many Colchicum species I ordered may take several years, and then surprise me by popping up in response to some mysterious signal all within a few days. The vegetable seeds and annual seeds are waiting for a few weeks until hard frosts become less likely. An order from Chiltern's is eagerly awaited -- not bulbs, but even a tree or two that I couldn't find in any US nursery catalog.     The new bulb house, with all the plants in deep raised beds, seems to be working well. The cold snap last week didn't kill anything that I can see (I put upside-down pots over the most vulnerable species), and many flowers are opening: Crocus species, the earliest Fritillarias, Hyacinthella and Hyacinthus, the first Romuleas, Gymnospermium ... and many buds evident, including some Erythronium. The beds look a little sparse, but I hope in a couple of years they'll be packed, thanks to a set-up that excludes predators. I gave them their first feed of spring -- the first of three -- this morning, mixing the soluble fertilizer with rainwater from the 1100-gallon storage tank just outside the bulb house. I also completed the raised sand bed surrounding the tank, which I hope will be a good home for Alstroemeria and Iris species, and perhaps a Daphne or two if I can keep the alstros off them. Long berms of soil await the arrival of many shrubs ordered for shipment in late March, and eventually I hope to interplant them with lilies -- something I couldn't do in the country because of the deer and rabbits.     In the garden the Narcissus obvallaris ("Tenby daffodil") I brought from the country place are opening in the grass, along with crocuses and an assortment of spare bulbs that got thrown under the sod. The half-built rock garden is dotted with geophytes thanks to desperate measures and volunteers in the pile of old bulb potting soil I had brought from the old place. Narcissus romieuxii has flowered bravely through temperatures in the low 20s F. Another pleasant surprise is a plant of Dodecatheon clevelandii, from the California Coast Range, that has lifted its flowering stem twice after being flattened by frost and snow. Indeed, the hardiness of California geophytes never ceases to gratify me: never believe the ratings given them by the books. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA _______________________________________________ From oldtulips@yahoo.com Fri Mar 4 16:39:34 2011 Message-Id: <93484.50140.qm@web45209.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> From: r de vries Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 13:39:31 -0800 (PST) Yes we want photos, please! Rimmer in SE Michigan where early crocus (CC. abantensis, gargaricus ssp. herbertii, imperati, and  'Bowls White')  are blooming in my cold frames --- On Fri, 3/4/11, Ken wrote: Ken Blackford of San Diego wrote Sounds exciting, Jane!  Take some "before" pics ... as well as those of the Shooting Stars you described ... and share, if you can!  Wish I had gotten around to installing a rainbarrell system like yours.   --- On Thu, 3/3/11, Jane McGary wrote: Today I received my seeds from Jenny Archibald and sowed 65 species in the new potting shed, where the seed flats rest on shelves under glass. Many will not germinate until next year, but it's still chilly enough here in Portland, Oregon, that I think they'll experience one "winter" of moist chilling. The many Colchicum species I ordered may take several years, and then surprise me by popping up in response to some mysterious signal all within a few days. The vegetable seeds and annual seeds are waiting for a few weeks until hard frosts become less likely. An order from Chiltern's is eagerly awaited -- not bulbs, but even a tree or two that I couldn't find in any US nursery catalog.     The new bulb house, with all the plants in deep raised beds, seems to be working well. The cold snap last week didn't kill anything that I can see (I put upside-down pots over the most vulnerable species), and many flowers are opening: Crocus species, the earliest Fritillarias, Hyacinthella and Hyacinthus, the first Romuleas, Gymnospermium ... and many buds evident, including some Erythronium. The beds look a little sparse, but I hope in a couple of years they'll be packed, thanks to a set-up that excludes predators. I gave them their first feed of spring -- the first of three -- this morning, mixing the soluble fertilizer with rainwater from the 1100-gallon storage tank just outside the bulb house. I also completed the raised sand bed surrounding the tank, which I hope will be a good home for Alstroemeria and Iris species, and perhaps a Daphne or two if I can keep the alstros off them. Long berms of soil await the arrival of many shrubs ordered for shipment in late March, and eventually I hope to interplant them with lilies -- something I couldn't do in the country because of the deer and rabbits.     In the garden the Narcissus obvallaris ("Tenby daffodil") I brought from the country place are opening in the grass, along with crocuses and an assortment of spare bulbs that got thrown under the sod. The half-built rock garden is dotted with geophytes thanks to desperate measures and volunteers in the pile of old bulb potting soil I had brought from the old place. Narcissus romieuxii has flowered bravely through temperatures in the low 20s F. Another pleasant surprise is a plant of Dodecatheon clevelandii, from the California Coast Range, that has lifted its flowering stem twice after being flattened by frost and snow. Indeed, the hardiness of California geophytes never ceases to gratify me: never believe the ratings given them by the books. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri Mar 4 21:27:26 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: photos in the wild Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2011 18:27:24 -0800 I just found this on a site that shows photos of all the species of Meconopsis: "It is hoped that in the future people visiting these remote areas will concentrate on taking photographs of the critical features and a wide range of plants, not just the prettiest." What a good idea for our wiki pictures!. Of course, one needs to be knowledgeable to know which characteristics are important for identification. I can remember our experts in South Africa digging up a plant to check its bulb so they could name it for us. Of course, they carefully replanted it. That isn't often necessary, but sometimes the important parts are very unexpected. Does this stick out longer than that? How do the leaves emerge from the ground? What is the shape of the tiny stem holding the pollen up? And the instruction to take pictures of the variations present is important, too. I have so many gorgeous pictures stuck in my head - single pictures that were published in books, sometimes fifty years ago. They became my ideal of what many species should be, but when I have bought the plants or grown seeds, invariably they would not look much like those photos. Off-white instead of gleaming yellow, perfectly plain instead of white with a big purple eye, and so on. Then I noticed that the University of British Columbia Asian Garden was growing a lot of what I considered second-rate selections of rhododendrons, unlike the Species Foundation which combed the U.K. to import only rhododendrons which had won prizes. However, as a nature lover, as opposed to being a gardener who has room for only one of any species, I finally understood the importance of growing many representatives of the great diversity present in the wild. UBC chose a few species and is growing as many of them as possible so they can be studied. If you are in a strange area and don't know the plants, I guess the best thing to do is to take LOTS of photos of every aspect of the plant, not just the flower. Fortunately, with digital cameras, that is possible at very little expense. Diane Whitehead Victoria. B.C., Canada From ksayce@willapabay.org Sat Mar 5 13:43:11 2011 Message-Id: <8703D626-6121-4630-93E5-23ABD3C951D4@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Sat, 5 Mar 2011 10:41:00 -0800 Jane, I do hope you let us know when your new garden is open to tours. I am waiting eagerly for the chance to see your bulb beds, etc. Kathleen From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Mar 5 14:21:34 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: photos in the wild Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2011 11:08:21 -0800 Diane Whitehead wrote >And the instruction to take pictures of the variations present is >important, too. I have so many gorgeous pictures stuck in my head - >single pictures that were published in books, sometimes fifty years >ago. They became my ideal of what many species should be, but when I >have bought the plants or grown seeds, invariably they would not look >much like those photos. This is really true. And along with it, it's important to grow as many different clones from wild-collected seed, because then you'll see a range of variation. For instance, recently some visitors were looking at early crocuses in my bulb house and asked what one pretty yellow one might be. It's a wild form of Crocus korolkowii, which most people know only from the selections with dark markings on the exterior of the outer tepals (of course, those are wild forms too, collected for their particular attractions). Without the brown markings (just the tube has a brown flush), it looks like a different species, but in fact it has its own beauty in robust flowers of a color that reminds me of Meyer lemons. Now in bloom here is a group of Iris reticulata grown from wild seed, including both deep violet and light blue forms; we have inexpensive named clones of both those colors, but how easy is it to acquire stock of them that isn't infected with ink spot disease? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From eagle.85@verizon.net Sat Mar 5 14:36:00 2011 Message-Id: From: Douglas Westfall Subject: Hippeastrum aulicum robustum Date: Sat, 05 Mar 2011 11:35:33 -0800 Someone in Australia asked for seeds of this Hippeastrum. The seeds will be "ripe" in a couple of weeks . We had a "breakdown" with our telephone lines and I lost your email. It was in reference to the picture of the month, and you said "I sure would like to add this one to my collection. If you read this and recall sending to ask for seeds, contact me again. The seeds SHOULD be "ripe" in a couple of weeks. . Sincerely, Doug Westfall From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun Mar 6 16:20:46 2011 Message-Id: <000d01cbdc44$5831b2d0$08951870$@com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Some cool Gladiolus hybrids Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 13:20:38 -0800 Hi, gang. The other day I was looking for some Gladiolus pictures online, and ran across a Japanese website that has some pictures of first-generation hybrids of South African Gladiolus species. If you're a species bulb purist you won't find this at all appealing, but to me it was very interesting to see what happens when some of the species are crossed. It's amazing how much genetic variability there is in this genus. Some of my favorites: Gladiolus alatus x rogersii (elegant pink and purple flowers) http://www.geocities.jp/unisery/mugenka/Gl-alatus-x-rogersii.html Gladiolus rogersii x carneus (beautiful markings) http://www.geocities.jp/unisery/mugenka/gla-rogersii-x-carneus.html Gladiolus bonaspei x hirsutus (fluorescent pink) http://www.geocities.jp/unisery/mugenka/Gla-bonaspei-x-hirstus-1.html Here's a link to a translated page listing all of the species and hybrids in the author's collection (warning -- Mary Sue reports that this link does not work in the Chrome browser): http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en &sl=ja&tl=en&u=http://www.geocities.jp/unisery/mugenka/gladiolus.html Here is a link to the page in Japanese: http://www.geocities.jp/unisery/mugenka/gladiolus.html I have not been able to figure out any information about the author, other than that the home page is titled "Unisery." If anyone has information on the grower of these hybrids, I'd be interested. Mike From totototo@telus.net Sun Mar 6 17:30:11 2011 Message-Id: <4D739A71.11149.3885CFE@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 14:30:09 -0800 On 4 Mar 2011, at 13:39, r de vries wrote: > Crocus sieberi 'Bowls White' Recte, 'Bowles White', named after the great English gardener E. A. Bowles. The earliest of the spring crocuses in my garden, and a durable plant. Consciousness of Bowles is now receding into the mists of the past, to the detriment of modern gardening (imho). Among other plants named after this great man are Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', and Ranunculus ficaria 'Bowles Double'. He wrote a number of books: one on Narcissus, one on Crocus and Colchicum, and three marvelous accounts of his garden, "My Garden in Spring", "My Garden in Summer", and "My Garden in Autumn and Winter." While the two on geophytic genera are now technically obsolete (but still worth reading), his "My Garden" books are perfect for a dark winter evening when the garden is a soggy/snowy mess. Bowles also contributed profusely to the horticultural (and, I think, botanical) periodical literature but alas! no one has ever gotten moving on publishing a "collected works". -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From oldtulips@yahoo.com Sun Mar 6 18:29:20 2011 Message-Id: <511619.76360.qm@web45210.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> From: r de vries Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 15:29:18 -0800 (PST) I was wondering when someone would pick up on my typo,  thanks Rodger "Carpathian Wonder" is in bloom in the frames too Rimmer in SE Michigan --- On Sun, 3/6/11, totototo@telus.net wrote: From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Re: [pbs] Spring flowering in Oregon To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, March 6, 2011, 5:30 PM On 4 Mar 2011, at 13:39, r de vries wrote: > Crocus sieberi 'Bowls White' Recte, 'Bowles White', named after the great English gardener E. A. Bowles. The earliest of the spring crocuses in my garden, and a durable plant. Consciousness of Bowles is now receding into the mists of the past, to the detriment of modern gardening (imho). Among other plants named after this great man are Erysimum 'Bowles Mauve', and Ranunculus ficaria 'Bowles Double'. He wrote a number of books: one on Narcissus, one on Crocus and Colchicum, and three marvelous accounts of his garden, "My Garden in Spring", "My Garden in Summer", and "My Garden in Autumn and Winter." While the two on geophytic genera are now technically obsolete (but still worth reading), his "My Garden" books are perfect for a dark winter evening when the garden is a soggy/snowy mess. Bowles also contributed profusely to the horticultural (and, I think, botanical) periodical literature but alas! no one has ever gotten moving on publishing a "collected works". -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From voltaire@islandnet.com Sun Mar 6 20:45:02 2011 Message-Id: <6465CBBB-59AF-4C80-8017-62D561095477@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2011 17:45:00 -0800 Painted, too, I think. I remember being shown paintings of crocus he had done. I was asked not to reveal who now owns them for fear of them being stolen. I promised not to, but an aging memory has made the promise unnecessary. On 6-Mar-11, at 2:30 PM, totototo@telus.net wrote: > > Bowles also contributed profusely to the horticultural (and, I think, > botanical) periodical literature but alas! no one has ever gotten > moving on > publishing a "collected works". > > -- > Rodger Whitlock > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > _______________________________________________ From arnold140@verizon.net Sun Mar 6 20:52:48 2011 Message-Id: <1969513920.812832.1299462757340.JavaMail.root@vznit170072> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Spring flowering in Oregon Date: Sun, 06 Mar 2011 19:52:37 -0600 (CST) E.A. Bowles may not have been the painter See: http://digicoll.library.wisc.edu/cgi-bin/DLDecArts/DLDecArts-idx?type=article&did=DLDecArts.BowlesFlorist.i0015&id=DLDecArts.BowlesFlorist&isize=M&pview=hide Arnold From pandi_bear@bigpond.com Mon Mar 7 00:49:44 2011 Message-Id: <015401cbdc77$8832f150$9898d3f0$@com> From: "Carolyn Fra" Subject: Some cool Gladiolus hybrids Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 14:27:05 +1100 Hi Mike, Thanks for this :o) There certainly are some beautiful pictures on this site. Carolyn (Tasmania, Australia) -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Michael Mace Sent: Monday, 7 March 2011 8:21 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Some cool Gladiolus hybrids Hi, gang. The other day I was looking for some Gladiolus pictures online, and ran across a Japanese website that has some pictures of first-generation hybrids of South African Gladiolus species. If you're a species bulb purist you won't find this at all appealing, but to me it was very interesting to see what happens when some of the species are crossed. It's amazing how much genetic variability there is in this genus. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Mike From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Mon Mar 7 02:33:53 2011 Message-Id: <10703052.147735.1299482779599.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j17> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Bowles paintings Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 08:26:19 +0100 (CET) They should be published! They are a unique record of old, classic and rare plants. There is more than enough interest in the genera he painted, especially Galanthus. And many of his paintings and drawings serve as the main reference for certain cultivars. But knowing who owns them I can't ever see this happening! > Message du 07/03/11 02:45 > De : "Diane Whitehead" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Spring flowering in Oregon > > Painted, too, I think. I remember being shown paintings of crocus he > had done. I was asked not to reveal who now owns them for fear of > them being stolen. I promised not to, but an aging memory has made > the promise unnecessary. > > > On 6-Mar-11, at 2:30 PM, totototo@telus.net wrote: > > > > > Bowles also contributed profusely to the horticultural (and, I think, > > botanical) periodical literature but alas! no one has ever gotten > > moving on > > publishing a "collected works". > > > > -- > > Rodger Whitlock > > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > > _______________________________________________ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Mar 7 02:56:49 2011 Message-Id: <002801cbdc9c$378541c0$2301a8c0@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Bowlesiana Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 07:49:40 -0000 The author of 'Bowles' Florist' was an ancestor of E.A. Bowles - and clearly not nearly as fine an artist. Rodger Whitlock wrote: "Consciousness of [E.A. Bowles] is now receding into the mists of the past, to the detriment of modern gardening (imho)." I'm not sure that this is totally accurate: his 'My Garden' books were fairly recently reissued by Timber Press (the third reprinting since the 1970s) and are all available through print on demand, as I discovered when doing my homework when writing a little blog piece about 'My Garden in Spring' recently. EAB's work is by no means forgotten by real plantsmen. For example, Janis Ruksans quotes Bowles on Crocus freely throughout his own new book, 'Crocuses'. There is an active E.A. Bowles of Myddelton House Society http://eabowlessociety.org.uk/ and best of all, the garden at Myddelton House is undergoing active restoration, stimulated by a lottery grant and the vigorous leadership of Head Gardener Andrew Turvey, a seriously impressive young horticulturist. See http://www.leevalleypark.org.uk/en/content/cms/leisure/activities_and_sport/myddelton_house/myddelton_house.aspx Certainly not least effective in stimulating remembrance of his name is Galanthus plicatus 'E.A. Bowles', which originated at Myddelton House, and is a magnificicent poculiform (all white) snowdrop. It hit national and international news in February when a bulb of it was sold on Ebay for £357 (generally, but wrongly, said to have been sold by me). My blog tells the tale... John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Mon Mar 7 05:18:39 2011 Message-Id: <174546.14481.qm@web86306.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Bowlesiana Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 10:18:37 +0000 (GMT) And there is a Bowles Corner garden at the RHS Wisley which is stocked with plants introduced or influenced by him during his lifetime, I forget the qualification. Although it is easy to miss as it is between common routes through the garden.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 From markus.breier@gmx.de Mon Mar 7 07:56:03 2011 Message-Id: <8304A8F1865C423C809F77C5A54A4D65@fambreier> From: "Markus Breier" Subject: Crinum `Cintho Alpha´ - information? Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 13:55:58 +0100 Dear PBS-mailing list members, Crinum `Cintho Alpha´ can be found in many garden markets here in Germany – in quite miserable condition. Does anyone have information to which species it belongs or which parent species are included? Best Wishes Markus Breier gardening near Munich, southern Germany, USDA 6b where spring slowly enters the garden From contact@bulbargence.com Mon Mar 7 08:42:11 2011 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Fwd: RE: Re: White Onion Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2011 14:41:52 +0100 Hello Mark, Jim Mc and all, Here is the answer of Johan van Scheepen KAVB., quickly translated: 'I think that is about right: Allium cowanni is a synonyme of A neopolitanum. In the next comittee meeting I shall propose, that the currently sold Allium cowanni will go under the name A neopolitatum 'Cowannii' (see index Hortensis (1998) page 75; But the RHS plantfinder puts these species in a 'Cowannii group" which I contest and will also be discussed in the next committee. The results will be published in the 'Bloembollen visie'. Allium murryanum will be next on the discussion list." Kind greetings Lauw de Jager www.bulbargence.com ` -----Original Message----- From: Johan van Scheepen Ik denk wel dat het klopt dat Allium cowannii gezien moet worden als een synoniem van A. neapolitanum. Ik overleg volgende week met de commissie en dan kan ik de knoop denk ik wel doorhakken. Hoe het materiaal moet heten dat nu als A. cowanii over de toonbank gaat is vermoedelijk Allium neapolitanum ‘Cowanii’ (zie Index Hortensis [1998], pagina 75, maar de RHS Plantfinder maakt er een Cowanii gorup van. Van dit laatste ben ik nog niet overtuigd, dus ik wil daarover praten met de commissie voor nomenclatuur. Vervolgens zal ik zo snel mogelijk een en ander publiceren in Bloembollenvisie. Ik houd je op de hoogte. Ik zal ook nog naar murryanum kijken, maar doe eerst cowanii. Message----- Jim McKenney : > Mark, the long list of citations you gave only proves my point: those > who make cowanii a synonym of Allium neapolitanum miss the point. Interesting logic. Actually, my list of citations responds to the erroneous assertion that "taxonomists cannot make up their mind about its proper rank or name", when taxonomists have indeed made up their minds decades ago that Allium "cowanii" was an early case of mistaken identity made almost 2 centuries ago, that the entity does fall within the variability encompassed by Allium neapolitanum, thus merely a synonym of A. neapolitanu From alanidae@gmail.com Mon Mar 7 11:38:05 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum `Cintho Alpha´ - information? Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 11:38:04 -0500 This seems to be coming out of the Netherlands and there are no details about its origins that I can find. The photos posted of it show a plant that is reminiscent of *Crinum yuccaeides *(or maybe C. distichum as well) in appearance though I suspect a hybrid. I would be interesting in knowing more about it if anyone else has information. -- Alani Davis From christopherwhitehouse@rhs.org.uk Mon Mar 7 12:24:52 2011 Message-Id: <76597B6CEABBC84BB63097BF023290B31CC2F589DD@VSM07MBX.rhs.net> From: Subject: Bowles paintings Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 17:05:10 +0000 > Painted, too, I think. I remember being shown paintings of crocus he > had done. I was asked not to reveal who now owns them for fear of > them being stolen. I promised not to, but an aging memory has made > the promise unnecessary. We have five paintings of Crocus cultivars by E.A. Bowles in the RHS Herbarium. People are welcome to come and view them by appointment. Crocus sieberi 'Albus' AGM; Crocus chrysanthus 'Copenhagen China' Crocus tommasinianus var. roseus Crocus chrysanthus 'Moonlight' Crocus chrysanthus 'Blue Jay' I know that the Natural History Museum also have paintings of Crocus by Bowles. Although, they wanted to charge us a disproportionate amount when we asked permission to use digital copies of them in a display for a Crocus day we were running, I don't think there would be a problem to make an appointment to view them in their archives. (Of course, none of this is very easy for anyone overseas.) Chris From odysseybulbs@earthlink.net Mon Mar 7 12:59:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Russell Stafford Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2011 12:59:23 -0500 The 2011 Odyssey Bulbs catalog is now on line at www.odysseybulbs.com. Allium karataviense ssp. henrikii, anyone? Russell Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From oregonnativeplant@gmail.com Mon Mar 7 13:13:17 2011 Message-Id: From: "Douglas M. Chadwick" Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 10:13:15 -0800 Oregon Native Plant Nursery's Spring 2011 electronic plant/bulb list is currently available by request via oregonnativeplant@yahoo.com. Regards, Douglas M. Chadwick Owner and Propagator, Oregon Native Plant Nursery' PO Box 886 Woodburn, OR 97107-0886 Tel.No.: 503.981.2353 E-Mail: oregonnativeplant@yahoo.com On 3/7/11, Russell Stafford wrote: > The 2011 Odyssey Bulbs catalog is now on line at > www.odysseybulbs.com. Allium karataviense ssp. henrikii, anyone? > > Russell > > Russell Stafford > Odyssey Bulbs > PO Box 382 > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > 508-335-8106 > www.odysseybulbs.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hkoopowi@uci.edu Mon Mar 7 14:23:24 2011 Message-Id: <201103071913.p27JDwiB005635@xsmtp1.es.uci.edu> From: Harold Koopowitz Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Mon, 07 Mar 2011 11:13:56 -0800 Please send me an electronic copy of your bulb list. thanks Harold At 10:13 AM 3/7/2011, you wrote: >Oregon Native Plant Nursery's Spring 2011 electronic plant/bulb list >is currently available by request via oregonnativeplant@yahoo.com. > >Regards, > >Douglas M. Chadwick >Owner and Propagator, >Oregon Native Plant Nursery' >PO Box 886 >Woodburn, OR 97107-0886 >Tel.No.: 503.981.2353 >E-Mail: oregonnativeplant@yahoo.com > >On 3/7/11, Russell Stafford wrote: > > The 2011 Odyssey Bulbs catalog is now on line at > > www.odysseybulbs.com. Allium karataviense ssp. henrikii, anyone? > > > > Russell > > > > Russell Stafford > > Odyssey Bulbs > > PO Box 382 > > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > > 508-335-8106 > > www.odysseybulbs.com > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Mon Mar 7 15:07:16 2011 Message-Id: <953856.48872.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 12:07:14 -0800 (PST) And if anyone is interested I also have an eclectic short list of southeastern US natives, South African bulbs, and E Asian plants. Just send me an email.  If possible I would like my contact information added to the wiki under sources.  Aaron Floden   --- On Tue, 3/8/11, Russell Stafford wrote: From: Russell Stafford Subject: [pbs] Brief commercial announcement. To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Tuesday, March 8, 2011, 1:59 AM The 2011 Odyssey Bulbs catalog is now on line at www.odysseybulbs.com.  Allium karataviense ssp. henrikii, anyone? Russell Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA  01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From klazina1@gmail.com Mon Mar 7 20:47:32 2011 Message-Id: <4D7586B8.1030404@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes Fadjars Pink Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2011 14:30:32 +1300 Is there anyone who is growing Zephyranthes Fadjars Pink anywhere who might have some seed of it? Ina From awilson@avonia.com Tue Mar 8 01:09:09 2011 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Why sad? Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2011 22:09:48 -0800 With blue skies and fresh wind blowing it seems difficult to see why this Gladiolus should be associated with, 'tristis'. Anyhow, it comes up in strange places in this garden, not always in places that I could call moist, as we are told it prefers. If it is sad, it certainly does not show it! http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/5508026421/ Does anyone know the reason for this epithet? Andrew San Diego From zonneveld@nhn.leidenuniv.nl Tue Mar 8 08:34:01 2011 Message-Id: From: "Zonneveld, B.J.M. (Ben)" Subject: Allium cowanii Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 13:08:34 +0000 Hello Lauw Send me live material Allium neapolitanum and A cowanii and I will see if there is any difference in the amount of nuclear DNA Ben J.M.Zonneveld Nationaal Herbarium Nederland POBox 9514 2300 RA Leiden, The Netherlands telf 071 5274738 ******************************** From msittner@mcn.org Tue Mar 8 11:49:05 2011 Message-Id: <20110308164904.EDE654C01E@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: European Romuleas Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2011 08:46:49 -0800 Hi, One of the wonderful thing about having a bulb list with knowledgeable people around the world is that we have many people who can help us identify the plants we grow from seed. Angelo Porcelli supplied me with information allowing me to correct the species name of some Romulea plants that a number of us have been growing as aff. bulbocodium even though the description of that species has a stigma overtopping the stamens and in these plants the stigma and the stamens are the same height. Angelo says these plants are instead Romulea ramiflora which has a rather wide distribution in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy and Greece. Since one of the photos on the wiki showed the back of the tepals and the bracts (often an important identification feature of Romulea species) and since he has the key (in Italian that he can read) he can confirm what they are. This illustrates the importance mentioned in recent posts of having photos on the wiki that show distinctive characteristics (not just a close-up of the flowers). This is an easy plant to grow and I am very fond of it and I'm sure I've probably given seed and corms to the BX with the wrong name. So if you have received Romulea bulbocodium corms or seed from me from the BX, please go to the wiki page and figure out whether what you have is the real species or Romulea ramiflora instead. Mary Sue From adawson1@san.rr.com Tue Mar 8 12:57:40 2011 Message-Id: From: Arthur Dawson Subject: European Romuleas Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2011 09:57:34 -0800 I have to inject a word of caution about this species if you live in Southern California. In 1992 I obtained bulbs under the name of Romulea romiflora. They propagated mightily and soon proved to be very invasive. It was probably a 3-year project to eliminate the last of them from neighbouring containers and even from the vegetable beds. Perhaps the plant was misidentified but I don't believe it was the recognized invasive, R. rosea, which I have also grown. I have one photo of the plant, taken in the pre-digital era, which I attach, but I am not sure that it is not the well-behaved R. grandiscarpa. AD On Mar/08/11 08:46 , "Mary Sue Ittner" wrote: >Hi, > >One of the wonderful thing about having a bulb list with >knowledgeable people around the world is that we have many people who >can help us identify the plants we grow from seed. Angelo Porcelli >supplied me with information allowing me to correct the species name >of some Romulea plants that a number of us have been growing as aff. >bulbocodium even though the description of that species has a stigma >overtopping the stamens and in these plants the stigma and the >stamens are the same height. > >Angelo says these plants are instead Romulea ramiflora which has a >rather wide distribution in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy and >Greece. Since one of the photos on the wiki showed the back of the >tepals and the bracts (often an important identification feature of >Romulea species) and since he has the key (in Italian that he can >read) he can confirm what they are. This illustrates the importance >mentioned in recent posts of having photos on the wiki that show >distinctive characteristics (not just a close-up of the flowers). > >This is an easy plant to grow and I am very fond of it and I'm sure >I've probably given seed and corms to the BX with the wrong name. So >if you have received Romulea bulbocodium corms or seed from me from >the BX, please go to the wiki page and figure out whether what you >have is the real species or Romulea ramiflora instead. >eanRomuleas> > >Mary Sue > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Tue Mar 8 14:14:07 2011 Message-Id: <80568.33546.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 11:14:06 -0800 (PST) Since we're all in the mood, I'm running a bulb co-op for Pacific Callas Calla Lilies and Arisaema. A co-op is where a lot of different buyers go in together on a group buy to obtain cheaper-than-retail prices. I'm running the co-op, which means I collect the money, send it to Pacific Callas, and have the bulbs all mailed to me. I then package everyone's individual order and mail it to them via Priority Mail. For more information, you can see: http://cubits.org/callalilies/thread/view/51594/ or http://lakesidecallas.com/pacific_callas_co-op.htm Or email me if you have any questions. There are 58 different varieties and many of them are not available anywhere else. Susan Bryant East Tennessee From plicht@berkeley.edu Tue Mar 8 14:54:14 2011 Message-Id: <4D7685DA.1040004@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2011 11:39:06 -0800 Coops sound like a good idea but I wonder about these prices. It's difficult to make a lot of comparison because of the diversity of cultivar names, but for example, the cost of Calla 'Majestic Red' is $5.12 for 1 or $3.90/bulb in lots of 10 compared with $6.05 in the coop. A few others show the same disparity. Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On 3/8/2011 11:14 AM, Susan B wrote: > Since we're all in the mood, I'm running a bulb co-op for Pacific Callas Calla > Lilies and Arisaema. > > > A co-op is where a lot of different buyers go in together on a group buy to > obtain cheaper-than-retail prices. > I'm running the co-op, which means I collect the money, send it to Pacific > Callas, and have the bulbs all mailed to me. > > I then package everyone's individual order and mail it to them via Priority > Mail. > > For more information, you can see: > http://cubits.org/callalilies/thread/view/51594/ or > > http://lakesidecallas.com/pacific_callas_co-op.htm > > Or email me if you have any questions. > There are 58 different varieties and many of them are not available anywhere > else. > > Susan Bryant > East Tennessee > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Tue Mar 8 17:04:39 2011 Message-Id: <480695.89835.qm@web65901.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 14:04:37 -0800 (PST) Paul, I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from, maybe as a botanical garden you can get bulbs elsewhere cheaper? The prices in the co-op came from Peter at Pacific Callas. Majestic Red is $6.05, retail price is $9.25 http://www.callalilyshop.pacificcallas.com/callamajesticred.htm ________________________________ From: Paul Licht To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, March 8, 2011 2:39:06 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Brief commercial announcement. Coops sound like a good idea but I wonder about these prices. It's difficult to make a lot of comparison because of the diversity of cultivar names, but for example, the cost of Calla 'Majestic Red' is $5.12 for 1 or $3.90/bulb in lots of 10 compared with $6.05 in the coop. A few others show the same disparity. Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On 3/8/2011 11:14 AM, Susan B wrote: > Since we're all in the mood, I'm running a bulb co-op for Pacific Callas Calla > Lilies and Arisaema. > > > A co-op is where a lot of different buyers go in together on a group buy to > obtain cheaper-than-retail prices. > I'm running the co-op, which means I collect the money, send it to Pacific > Callas, and have the bulbs all mailed to me. > > I then package everyone's individual order and mail it to them via Priority > Mail. > > For more information, you can see: > http://cubits.org/callalilies/thread/view/51594/ or > > http://lakesidecallas.com/pacific_callas_co-op.htm > > Or email me if you have any questions. > There are 58 different varieties and many of them are not available anywhere > else. > > Susan Bryant > East Tennessee > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From bulborum@gmail.com Tue Mar 8 17:26:24 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 23:26:22 +0100 2011/3/8 Susan B : Paul, I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from, maybe as a botanical garden you can get bulbs elsewhere cheaper? To give you an indication from prices [url=http://www.callalilyshop.pacificcallas.com/alliumglobemaster.htm]Allium Globemaster[/url] cost in the wholesale in Holland $1000.- to $1500.- for 1000 bulbs I am not a specialist in Calla but for me these prices are not very special Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From bulborum@gmail.com Tue Mar 8 17:31:37 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 23:31:35 +0100 Sorry the link does not work go to the page Varieties left bottom Other bulbs you find Allium Globemaster Roland 2011/3/8 bulborum botanicum : > 2011/3/8 Susan B : >  Paul, > I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from, maybe as a botanical garden > you can get bulbs elsewhere cheaper? > > > > To give you an indication from prices > > [url=http://www.callalilyshop.pacificcallas.com/alliumglobemaster.htm]Allium > Globemaster[/url] > > > cost in the wholesale in Holland $1000.- to $1500.- for 1000 bulbs > I am not a specialist in Calla > but for me these prices are not very special > > > Roland > > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email:   bulborum@gmail.com > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From plicht@berkeley.edu Tue Mar 8 18:43:58 2011 Message-Id: <4D76BF3D.9020203@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Brief commercial announcement. Date: Tue, 08 Mar 2011 15:43:57 -0800 Sorry, I simply checked out Brentandbeckysbulbs.com. For Callas, see http://brentandbeckysbulbs.com/summer/search/search.php?section=keyword&criteria=calla&x=15&y=7. I believe these are their standard retail prices. I have used them for years for my personal garden. I have visited their operation, know them and have great respect for the operation. They have an excellent selection of bulbs beyond the narcissus and tulipa. Paul On 3/8/2011 2:04 PM, Susan B wrote: > Paul, > I'm not sure where you are getting your prices from, maybe as a botanical garden > you can get bulbs elsewhere cheaper? > > The prices in the co-op came from Peter at Pacific Callas. > Majestic Red is $6.05, retail price is $9.25 > http://www.callalilyshop.pacificcallas.com/callamajesticred.htm > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Paul Licht > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Tue, March 8, 2011 2:39:06 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Brief commercial announcement. > > Coops sound like a good idea but I wonder about these > prices. It's difficult to make a lot of comparison because > of the diversity of cultivar names, but for example, the > cost of Calla 'Majestic Red' is $5.12 for 1 or $3.90/bulb > in lots of 10 compared with $6.05 in the coop. A few > others show the same disparity. > > Paul Licht, Director > University of California Botanical Garden > 200 Centennial Drive > Berkeley, CA 94720 > (510)-643-8999 > http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu > > > > On 3/8/2011 11:14 AM, Susan B wrote: >> Since we're all in the mood, I'm running a bulb co-op for Pacific Callas Calla >> Lilies and Arisaema. >> >> >> A co-op is where a lot of different buyers go in together on a group buy to >> obtain cheaper-than-retail prices. >> I'm running the co-op, which means I collect the money, send it to Pacific >> Callas, and have the bulbs all mailed to me. >> >> I then package everyone's individual order and mail it to them via Priority >> Mail. >> >> For more information, you can see: >> http://cubits.org/callalilies/thread/view/51594/ or >> >> http://lakesidecallas.com/pacific_callas_co-op.htm >> >> Or email me if you have any questions. >> There are 58 different varieties and many of them are not available anywhere >> else. >> >> Susan Bryant >> East Tennessee >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue Mar 8 19:07:25 2011 Message-Id: <735750.22478.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: non-commercial post ... blooming now in the backyard Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 16:07:23 -0800 (PST) Spring has sprung in San Diego.  A couple of things blooming now in the yard ... Cyrtanthus falcatus, Scadoxus puniceus (natalensis?), Velthiemia bracteata, Freesia laxa and Albuca spiralis ... if you click on each picture you'll get a larger view.    http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/   Ken Blackford San Diego.    From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Tue Mar 8 21:51:38 2011 Message-Id: <616106.87593.qm@web65907.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Spring in San Diego Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 18:51:36 -0800 (PST) Beautiful, Ken! I'm so jealous, not much sign of spring here! Susan B East Tennessee From Jtlehmann@aol.com Tue Mar 8 22:52:03 2011 Message-Id: <25cca.1368f257.3aa85359@aol.com> From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 22:51:53 EST Can aquatic Crinum be converted, partially or wholly, to non-aquatic culture? If so, how? If not, what is the best culture for long-term growth? Mine only seem to last about one year before slowly dying back and then just never coming back to life...and then they just seem to disappear. They never bloom, but initially grow very well. No fish, a few small snails but I remove the bulk of them when there seems to be too many. I don't have a heater in the tank, but the room temperature is warm: 70s - 80s F during the day, with about a 10-degree drop at night. Plenty of light! They are secured in the gravel if they are loose bulbs, otherwise they are in the small plastic pots filled with foam-like material. There are a few other aquatic plants in the tank with them, nothing special as they are all easily obtained at pet stores, but have become more interesting to me than the fish; the aquatic plants are residual from my "fish days." Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! --Jerry Lehmann Olathe, KS From kimcmich@hotmail.com Tue Mar 8 23:34:14 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 20:34:12 -0800 Jerry, Aquatic crinums need more than just gravel (or rockwool). As opposed to many aquatic plants that can largely subsist off what they absorb through their foliage, aquatic crinums have an extensive root system and need soil (or a nutrient-providing substrate more generally). I've had good success using 3-4 inches of plain old topsoil under a thin layer of sand and an inch or so of gravel (the sand and gravel function merely to keep the soil from being disturbed by water flow). Place the bottom of the bulbs at the top of the soil and beneath the gravel. If your water stays in the upper 70's I think that's warm enough. Basically, grow these plants like you would any land based plant. Would you try to grow a garden crinum in nothing but gravel or rockwool and expect it to thrive? You might also want to try aquatic plant fertilizers. A submersed setting maximizes leeching of soil nutrients so even if you use soil initially, you'll need to start supplemental feeding eventually. -| From: Jtlehmann@aol.com > Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 22:51:53 -0500 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > > Can aquatic Crinum be converted, partially or wholly, to non-aquatic > culture? If so, how? If not, what is the best culture for long-term growth? > Mine only seem to last about one year before slowly dying back and then just > never coming back to life...and then they just seem to disappear. They > never bloom, but initially grow very well. No fish, a few small snails but I > remove the bulk of them when there seems to be too many. I don't have a > heater in the tank, but the room temperature is warm: 70s - 80s F during > the day, with about a 10-degree drop at night. Plenty of light! They are > secured in the gravel if they are loose bulbs, otherwise they are in the > small plastic pots filled with foam-like material. There are a few other > aquatic plants in the tank with them, nothing special as they are all easily > obtained at pet stores, but have become more interesting to me than the fish; > the aquatic plants are residual from my "fish days." Any suggestions would > be greatly appreciated! > > --Jerry Lehmann > > Olathe, KS > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From contact@bulbargence.com Wed Mar 9 07:36:02 2011 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Allium cowanii Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 13:35:40 +0100 Hallo Ben, I will sent them early April. Hartelijke groeten Lauw de Jager -----Original Message----- Send me live material Allium neapolitanum and A cowanii and I will see if there is any difference in the amount of nuclear DNA Ben J.M.Zonneveld From msittner@mcn.org Wed Mar 9 10:37:25 2011 Message-Id: <20110309153724.B5C684C069@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: European Romuleas Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 07:36:58 -0800 It's always good to get the words of caution about species that can be invasive. Romulea ramiflora does very well for me but has not been a problem. I've not tried it in the ground and it is not appearing in my other containers nor has it seeded itself around. But conditions in Northern California are very different than Southern California. Our list doesn't allow attachments so Arthur's photo was stripped from his message, but it looked like the photos we have on the wiki of Romulea ramiflora. Mary Sue > I have one photo of the plant, taken in the pre-digital era, which > I attach, but I am not sure that it is not the well-behaved R. grandiscarpa. From msittner@mcn.org Wed Mar 9 10:56:01 2011 Message-Id: <20110309155558.0E6C24C050@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Haemanthus coccineus problem Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 07:55:07 -0800 This note to the list was sent in February. I have only now found the time to downsize the very large attachment and upload it to the wiki. Can anyone help Warren with this problem? From: Warren Keller Subject: Re: [pbs] (no subject) i came across the website in hope of some help. i have about 20 haemanthus coccineus bulbs and one leaf ends has some yellow spots, none other others have this. now they are beginging to die back right now. i attached a photo. doesnt look like any virus ive seen, but im just trying to becareful, i dont want to loose all of them. let me know what you think of that photo! thanks again. warren From jshields@indy.net Wed Mar 9 11:08:02 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110309110406.04da6af0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Haemanthus coccineus problem Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 11:07:32 -0500 I assume he is in the Northern Hemnisphere. It is about time for Haemanthus coccineus to start dying back for summer here -- several of mine are yellowing off their leaves now. It is probably nothing to worry about, but he could cut off the part of the leaf with the spots. Keep away from other plants, just in case. He can write to me privately if he wants. Jim Shields in Westfield, Indiana USA At 07:55 AM 3/9/2011 -0800, you wrote: >....... > >i came across the website in hope of some help. i have about 20 haemanthus >coccineus bulbs and one leaf ends has some yellow spots, none other others >have this. now they are beginging to die back right now. i attached a >photo. doesnt look like any virus ive seen, but im just trying to >becareful, i dont want to loose all of them. let me know what you think of >that photo! thanks again. > >warren ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 From antennaria@charter.net Wed Mar 9 12:49:26 2011 Message-Id: <1499257853.33983.1299692965514.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> From: Mark McDonough Subject: White Onion (contact) Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 12:49:25 -0500 (EST) Thanks Lauw, very good to get this feedback and to learn that steps are in place to finally rectify this misnamed Allium, and possibly the second one too. If I see a box of bulbs labeled as Allium neapolitanum 'Cowanii' (just one "n" please) one day while buying autumn bulbs, I'll get a box and give them a try again, although here they need to be treated as forced bulbs as they are not reliably hardy when grown outdoors. Thanks again for your efforts, most appreciated! Regards, Mark McDonough antennaria@charter.net Massachusetts, USA USDA Zone 5 ================================= > From: contact@bulbargence.com, Re: White Onion > > Hello Mark, Jim Mc and all, > Here is the answer of Johan van Scheepen KAVB., quickly translated: 'I > think that is about right: Allium cowanni is a >synonyme of A > neopolitanum. In the next comittee meeting I shall propose, that the > currently sold Allium cowanni will go >under the name A neopolitatum > 'Cowannii' (see index Hortensis (1998) page 75; But the RHS > plantfinder puts these species >in a 'Cowannii group" which I contest > and will also be discussed in the next committee. The results will be > published in the 'Bloembollen visie'. > Allium murryanum will be next on the discussion list." > Kind greetings > > Lauw de Jager > www.bulbargence.com From alanidae@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 14:14:08 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 14:14:06 -0500 Jerry - I am growing four forms of aquatic Crinum in an aquarium. I had some shakey starts but the plants are 10-20 years old now. I have not problem growing them in a fine gravel medium with an assortment of other aquarium plants like Cryptocorne, Anubias, Echinodorus, and Sagittaria, The gravel bed it is about 3" thick. I have tried to supplement them using slow release fertilizer pellets inserted into the gravel bed design for aquatic plants and water gardening though not very often. I was trying a number of the aquarium plant fertilizers and minor element supplements on the market in the aquarium industry and was greatly frustrated by the lack of or poor results I got. It seems that since I have stopped tinkering with the nutrients and other than changing the water and occasionally cleaning the filter, do little to the aquarium, I have been getting far better performance from the Crinums and other plants. The water temperature is about 76-82 without much variation. They do like intense lighting and I first had luck with metal halide fixture (250 watt) but great tired of the down sides of having a small street light in my living room. I now use a high output fluorescent fixture with four bulbs which is about 6 inches from the water surface. A previous experiment with a light box containing 6 typical 48" flourescent bulbs was not really bright enough to keep the plants happy. These were all either daylight bulbs or special wave length bulbs designed for planted aquaria or a mixture of both. I mention this because I am not sure what you mean by plenty of light and I have had plenty of bright light situations with aquatic plants that turned out to be not nearly bright enough. The aqarium is all in a "typical" 75 gallon aquarium 48"X18"X18" with variable platies the only fish in the tank at this time. The aquarium was fish free for about 7 years. Pictures of one the Crinums blooming are one the PBS WIKI. Oh, also despite what had been able to find out about their wild habits, I experimented with trying to get them to produce emergent foliage but cultivating them in a pond in the summer and slowly boosting the pot to create shallower and shallower water above crown of the plant. They won't produce emergent foliage and struggle without at least a couples inches of water depth. I used offsets from the aquarium individuals in the pond, and the Crinum calmistratum did much better in the pond than did the Crinum thaianum. None of them have survived a zone 8 winter so far. Alani Davis From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed Mar 9 14:39:57 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:39:55 -0800 Jerry and Alani, Alani's setup sounds different in a few ways from yours. Alani can correct me if I'm wrong, but it sounds his tank is both long-established and holds fish as well. Whatever may have been the starting material, his substrate likely contains substantially more material than the fine gravel he started with. His fish are presumably fed fish food which directly or via the fishes' digestive systems becomes fertilizer (both liquid and solid) for the plants in the tank. Ive seen permaculture systems that use a tank full of (regularly fed) fish to provide dissolved nutrients to a hydroponic bed of salad greens. Considering a major component of both fish food and fish emulsion (a plant fertilizer) are fish meal, it doesn't seem surprising that additional fertilizers aren't required when you also keep fish in a tank. Animals are both wasteful and profligant in their use of nutrients. Fish, in much the same was as cows, act as living fertilizer factories for the plants around them. Since you you don't have fish, however, you're going to need some source of additional nutrients besides the gravel or rockwool in which your crinums currently grow. -| From: Jacob Knecht Subject: Haemanthus coccineus problem Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:58:57 -0800 I concur with Jim. When leaves die back they can look rather nasty and sometimes yellow at an irregular pace. I wouldn't cut the leaves. I would simply allow the leaves to senesce naturally. Before it goes dormant he might give the plant an imidacloprid drench for safety's sake because mealybugs can spread virus even when bulbs are dormant. Jacob Knecht On 9 March 2011 08:07, J.E. Shields wrote: > I assume he is in the Northern Hemnisphere. It is about time for > Haemanthus coccineus to start dying back for summer here -- several of mine > are yellowing off their leaves now. It is probably nothing to worry about, > but he could cut off the part of the leaf with the spots. Keep away from > other plants, just in case. > > He can write to me privately if he wants. > > Jim Shields > in Westfield, Indiana > USA > > At 07:55 AM 3/9/2011 -0800, you wrote: > >> ....... >> >> >> i came across the website in hope of some help. i have about 20 haemanthus >> coccineus bulbs and one leaf ends has some yellow spots, none other others >> have this. now they are beginging to die back right now. i attached a photo. >> doesnt look like any virus ive seen, but im just trying to becareful, i dont >> want to loose all of them. let me know what you think of that photo! thanks >> again. >> >> warren >> > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From alanidae@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 15:00:35 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 15:00:34 -0500 Kipp and Jerry - Yes Kipp, you are correct about the fish, but there weren't any fish for many years. Even the number of years when there were no fish, there is and was a healthy population of snails which produce fertilizer as well. The side affect of the addition of fish again has been too much nutrients and algae growth issues, but it is a balance to be maintained. Not sure I can recommend any particular nutrient but I agree the Crinums need something assuming there is plenty of light. -- Alani From adawson1@san.rr.com Wed Mar 9 15:24:44 2011 Message-Id: From: Arthur Dawson Subject: European Romuleas Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 12:24:39 -0800 I can upload the photo if you're interested. On which page should I put it? AD On Mar/09/11 07:36 , "Mary Sue Ittner" wrote: >It's always good to get the words of caution about species that can >be invasive. Romulea ramiflora does very well for me but has not been >a problem. I've not tried it in the ground and it is not appearing in >my other containers nor has it seeded itself around. But conditions >in Northern California are very different than Southern California. >Our list doesn't allow attachments so Arthur's photo was stripped >from his message, but it looked like the photos we have on the wiki >of Romulea ramiflora. > >Mary Sue >> I have one photo of the plant, taken in the pre-digital era, which >> I attach, but I am not sure that it is not the well-behaved R. >>grandiscarpa. > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Wed Mar 9 15:35:57 2011 Message-Id: <745076474-1299702953-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1498409532-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: warren_keller@yahoo.com Subject: Haemanthus coccineus problem Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 20:35:51 +0000 I had the bulb tested and no virus! I live in california. I also grow haemanthus katherine. They are growing in the ground, I dug them up to relocated them and noticed that the lower part of some of the bulbs were rotting, its been really wet and cold this winter. Is this basal rot? It has new white roots coming from the top of the bulb. I want to more them into containers with more perlite and sand. Toss them, try to save them? Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Jacob Knecht Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 11:58:57 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus coccineus problem I concur with Jim. When leaves die back they can look rather nasty and sometimes yellow at an irregular pace. I wouldn't cut the leaves. I would simply allow the leaves to senesce naturally. Before it goes dormant he might give the plant an imidacloprid drench for safety's sake because mealybugs can spread virus even when bulbs are dormant. Jacob Knecht On 9 March 2011 08:07, J.E. Shields wrote: > I assume he is in the Northern Hemnisphere. It is about time for > Haemanthus coccineus to start dying back for summer here -- several of mine > are yellowing off their leaves now. It is probably nothing to worry about, > but he could cut off the part of the leaf with the spots. Keep away from > other plants, just in case. > > He can write to me privately if he wants. > > Jim Shields > in Westfield, Indiana > USA > > At 07:55 AM 3/9/2011 -0800, you wrote: > >> ....... >> >> >> i came across the website in hope of some help. i have about 20 haemanthus >> coccineus bulbs and one leaf ends has some yellow spots, none other others >> have this. now they are beginging to die back right now. i attached a photo. >> doesnt look like any virus ive seen, but im just trying to becareful, i dont >> want to loose all of them. let me know what you think of that photo! thanks >> again. >> >> warren >> > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From dkramb@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 23:09:40 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:09:33 -0500 Last year you guys helped me track down & buy Hippeastrum parodii "Germa". It didn't bloom then, but it's about to bloom now. Two buds are starting to open and it is definitely looking like "Germa" so far !!! Lovely tubular pale yellow flower buds. I'm excited! From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 9 23:11:03 2011 Message-Id: <8CDACF0424727F2-3184-145B2@webmail-d147.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 09 Mar 2011 23:10:43 -0500 VERY NICE! Would you mind swapping some seeds with me ? Best, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Kramb To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wed, Mar 9, 2011 11:09 pm Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Last year you guys helped me track down & buy Hippeastrum parodii "Germa". It didn't bloom then, but it's about to bloom now. Two buds are starting to open and it is definitely looking like "Germa" so far !!! Lovely tubular pale yellow flower buds. I'm excited! _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dkramb@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 23:24:32 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:24:29 -0500 If I can get it to set seed, I'll donate them to the BX. (It's so rare that I have anything to offer!) I have 1 seed pod forming on another Hip that had long tubular red & white flowers... but what was particularly striking was the dark red stalks and nearly black ovary. Dennis in Cincy On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:10 PM, wrote: > VERY NICE! > Would you mind swapping some seeds with me ? > Best, Jude > > From gmaculata@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 23:26:36 2011 Message-Id: From: Glen Lord Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:26:29 -0500 Dennis, That Hip sounds so cool! Cheers, Glen On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:24 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > If I can get it to set seed, I'll donate them to the BX. (It's so rare > that > I have anything to offer!) I have 1 seed pod forming on another Hip that > had long tubular red & white flowers... but what was particularly striking > was the dark red stalks and nearly black ovary. > > Dennis in Cincy > > > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:10 PM, wrote: > > > VERY NICE! > > Would you mind swapping some seeds with me ? > > Best, Jude > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Glen From gmaculata@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 23:27:04 2011 Message-Id: From: Glen Lord Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:27:01 -0500 The one with the red stem, That is.... On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:26 PM, Glen Lord wrote: > Dennis, That Hip sounds so cool! > Cheers, Glen > > > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:24 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > >> If I can get it to set seed, I'll donate them to the BX. (It's so rare >> that >> I have anything to offer!) I have 1 seed pod forming on another Hip that >> had long tubular red & white flowers... but what was particularly striking >> was the dark red stalks and nearly black ovary. >> >> Dennis in Cincy >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:10 PM, wrote: >> >> > VERY NICE! >> > Would you mind swapping some seeds with me ? >> > Best, Jude >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > -- > Glen > -- Glen From eez55@earthlink.net Wed Mar 9 23:34:36 2011 Message-Id: <380-2201134104342933@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:34:29 -0500 Alani. By "high output fluorescent" do you mean T-5 bulbs, or T-8 bulbs? Typical fluorescent bulbs are T-12's, or at least that was the case 10 years ago. Thanks. Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > From: Alani Davis > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Date: 3/9/2011 2:14:16 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Aquatic Crinum > >...They do like intense lighting and I > first had luck with metal halide fixture (250 watt) but great tired of the > down sides of having a small street light in my living room. I now use a > high output fluorescent fixture with four bulbs which is about 6 inches from > the water surface. A previous experiment with a light box containing 6 > typical 48" flourescent bulbs was not really bright enough to keep the > plants happy. These were all either daylight bulbs or special wave length > bulbs designed for planted aquaria or a mixture of both... From gmaculata@gmail.com Wed Mar 9 23:40:31 2011 Message-Id: From: Glen Lord Subject: Hippeastrum parodii, in bud Date: Wed, 9 Mar 2011 23:40:24 -0500 Hello All, I am on a mission to find a US seed source for Gethyllis. I would also be happy to find a US source for plants but think that is just asking for too much... Cheers, Glen On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:27 PM, Glen Lord wrote: > The one with the red stem, That is.... > > > On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:26 PM, Glen Lord wrote: > >> Dennis, That Hip sounds so cool! >> Cheers, Glen >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:24 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: >> >>> If I can get it to set seed, I'll donate them to the BX. (It's so rare >>> that >>> I have anything to offer!) I have 1 seed pod forming on another Hip that >>> had long tubular red & white flowers... but what was particularly >>> striking >>> was the dark red stalks and nearly black ovary. >>> >>> Dennis in Cincy >>> >>> >>> On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 11:10 PM, wrote: >>> >>> > VERY NICE! >>> > Would you mind swapping some seeds with me ? >>> > Best, Jude >>> > >>> > >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Glen >> > > > > -- > Glen > -- Glen From alanidae@gmail.com Thu Mar 10 10:54:19 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 10:54:18 -0500 Hey Eugene- The HO lamps take T-5 bulbs, but I believe the T-# refers to the bulb diameter although certain diameter bulbs are associated with certain types of flourescent bulbs. There standard output T-5 bulbs for instance. I have not tried them, but there are VHO (very high output) fixtures as well which are T-12 size. The HO lamps (and VHO lamps) are higher wattage lamps. For a comparison a standard output flourescent 48" bulb is a 40 watt bulb while a 48" HO bulb is 54 watts and a 48" VHO bulb is 110 watts. The HO bulbs are quite a bit brighter than the standard bulbs. -- Alani Davis From Jtlehmann@aol.com Thu Mar 10 12:03:42 2011 Message-Id: <4d544.21ebf57d.3aaa5e63@aol.com> From: Jtlehmann@aol.com Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:03:31 EST Kipp & Alani: Thank you for all your information and insight. I am thinking I need to fertilize and provide more light. I have a light fixture of 4 fluorescent tubes and a much smaller tank. I, too, found the tank much easier to maintain without fish. While I do miss the fish, I don't miss the extra maintenance and responsibility. I am also going to try one plant in my back yard pond over the summer. --Jerry From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 10 12:21:49 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Spring flowering in Kansas City Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:21:39 -0600 Dear PBSers, Although we have had a long dreary winter with few days of sunshine and too many days of snow cover, some things are blooming. Actually we rarely have such extended snow cover and this may have encouraged some of this early growth. Here's a brief list: Crocus C sieberi 'Firefly' - A favorite pale lilac that clumps up and seems to move around the garden. We've never planted any in the path, but now clumps pop up each spring. Squirrels? C. ancyrensis - Tiny brilliant golden yellow. One of our smallest species, but the color has a big impact. C. siberi 'Bowles White' -just a couple flowers open. C. sieberi 'Tricolor - do you see a pattern here? The color with its bold deep purple, gold and white is great singly or in a clump. C. tommasinianus (sp?) - in a variety of shades including seed grown mixes. A large patch of 'Ruby Giant' just appearing and other wide spread plantings not yet up at all. These bloom in 'waves' in various parts of the garden, but all are excellent. Narcissus 'Cedric Morris' an N. minor cv that can bloom easily in late Jan, through Mar depending on the winter. We keep a plastic bell jar over it to protect it from rabbit and other critters eating the foliage and buds. It can take the full brunt of snow and cold. Just wish it multiplied more vigorously. RES 'Rynveld's Early Sensation' just opening its first flowers. Reliably and a good sign of real spring. Galanthus 'Mighty Atom -NOT' an un-named vaguely similar to 'S. Arnott', but bigger, more vigorous and all round best snowdrop in the garden. Single bulbs transplanted a few years ago are multi-flowered clumps in a very short time. Time to spread more bulbs around. Our favorite by far. G. 'S. Arnott' - as above, but less so G. elwesii monostictus. Bold glaucous foliage and good size flowers. Newly confirmed ID (Thanks John). We've enjoyed it for years under 'no name'. like most of our Galanthus, alas. G. elwesii -typical is a wimp here. Not even vaguely garden worthy I suspect it does not like our edge-of-prairie conditions. G. nivalis -single and double -the latter barely open yet. G ?? Way too many without an ID. Frustratingly difficult to pinpoint names especially when so many seem to under-grow their potential in my harsher growing climate conditions. Eranthis - Winter Aconites. You gotta love these with bright gold flowers perched on top of a crown of green. Slowly self sowing here and we actively spread seed among Hellebores and such. We've tried a few variants, but with slow success. Adonis amurensis- marginally 'bulbous', but pops up and open with the first rays of bright sunshine. Two clumps a few feet apart, but one has multiplied well with over a dozen flowering stems, the other sits with one or two flowers per year. Hyacinths- no not blooming, but big pointed green 'noses' are an inch up including a couple different colors of Dutch hybrids and multiflora in a mix of colors, too. They do just fine, but are very slow to multiply. The list seems a bit long, but it will multiply in just a few short weeks as more genera and species are added to the 'bloom list'. Can spring be far behind? Enjy Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From alanidae@gmail.com Thu Mar 10 12:48:22 2011 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Aquatic Crinum Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:48:21 -0500 Jerry- I would actually recommend removing the pots and the rock wool too. They function well when these plants are cultivated in hydroponic conditions and they protect the root systems when they are being shipped around but I think the plants do better without them in the aquarium. Also you might want to check some of the new light fixtures using compact fluorescent bulbs which are brighter and some of these are great for smaller plant tanks. The special wavelength bulbs sold for planted aquaria (and live reef marine tanks) do make a different as well. I understand the fish dilemma and it was for similar reasons that I didn't have them for quite a while and why I have one of the simplest to keep fish now. -- Alani From dkramb@gmail.com Thu Mar 10 13:14:38 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:14:37 -0500 I don't recall much discussion about Dahlias on PBS. Or maybe I just ignored the discussions because I wasn't growing them at the time. But I'm in the mood to try them again. They were one of my first garden plants, and I miss having them. Are there any cold hardy varieties on the market? (I'm in Zone 6). Or is it still necessary to lift them in winter? It was the lifting that turned me off Dahlias all those years ago. But maybe if I have a small quantity then I can manage the lifting. I see tons of varieties for sale at the big box stores. But I do prefer to buy from specialty nurseries whenever possible. I'm interested to hear what you folks grow..... Dennis in Cincy From bulborum@gmail.com Thu Mar 10 13:19:59 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:19:34 +0100 Dennis They are so cheap If they freeze (if the soil is dry they can handle some frost) You buy a few other ones next year Roland 2011/3/10 Dennis Kramb : I don't recall much discussion about Dahlias on PBS.  Or maybe I just ignored the discussions because I wasn't growing them at the time.  But I'm in the mood to try them again. They were one of my first garden plants, and I miss having them. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From Santoury@aol.com Thu Mar 10 13:22:14 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAD671863771B-F60-71C@webmail-m073.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 13:21:23 -0500 There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. -----Original Message----- From: bulborum botanicum To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 1:19 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Dahlias Dennis They are so cheap If they freeze (if the soil is dry they can handle some frost) You buy a few other ones next year Roland 2011/3/10 Dennis Kramb : I don't recall much discussion about Dahlias on PBS. Or maybe I just ignored the discussions because I wasn't growing them at the time. But I'm in the mood to try them again. They were one of my first garden plants, and I miss having them. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu Mar 10 13:57:25 2011 Message-Id: <213354.42554.qm@web86305.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 18:57:23 +0000 (GMT) Dahlia nurseries will grow named forms year after year taking cuttings from their previous years tubers, with the same quality each year. If you are planting or splitting tubers and restrict the shoots to just 2 or 3 then they should be little different from the previous year. If you grow from tubers they will flower slightly earlier than from rooted cuttings, presumably because the plant does not have to form a new tuber system first. Usefull for the large flowered monsters which tend to flower late. Disbudding side shoots will give you larger flowers. I think named form Dahlias are only cheap in countries where they don't have to be lifted and stored each year, or if you grow seed strains.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8   There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. From Santoury@aol.com Thu Mar 10 14:02:57 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAD6CE2F75609-1180-1B070@webmail-m131.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 14:02:50 -0500 They certainly are not "cheap" here, but love them. If anybody knows of "cheap" ones - let me know! Are you talking about cuttings from the stem ? Because when you say "cuttings from the previous year's tubers" that confuses me, since you say the plant doesn't "need to form a new tuber system" ? -----Original Message----- From: Brian Whyer To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 1:57 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Dahlias Dahlia nurseries will grow named forms year after year taking cuttings from their previous years tubers, with the same quality each year. If you are planting or splitting tubers and restrict the shoots to just 2 or 3 then they should be little different from the previous year. If you grow from tubers they will flower slightly earlier than from rooted cuttings, presumably because the plant does not have to form a new tuber system first. Usefull for the large flowered monsters which tend to flower late. Disbudding side shoots will give you larger flowers. I think named form Dahlias are only cheap in countries where they don't have to be lifted and stored each year, or if you grow seed strains. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu Mar 10 14:23:24 2011 Message-Id: <230748.82384.qm@web86304.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:23:20 +0000 (GMT) < Are you talking about cuttings from the stem ? Because when you say "cuttings from the < previous year's tubers" that confuses me, since you say the plant doesn't "need to form a < new tuber system" ?   You can carefully divide the tuber "cluster" vertically down through the stem, taking care to keep a portion of the main stem with each tuber, preferably after the plant starts shooting so you get 1 or more new shoots on each division. Or you can slice off the shoots close to the stem and root them in the usual gritty rooting compost, and establish a new plant first from each cutting. They should root in 2-3 weeks; as long as you cut close to the tuber. Leave a couple of shoots on the old tuber and you will have a number of new plants from the one original tuber clump.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 -----Original Message----- From: Brian Whyer brian.whyer@btinternet.com Dahlia nurseries will grow named forms year after year taking cuttings from their previous years tubers, with the same quality each year. If you are planting or splitting tubers and restrict the shoots to just 2 or 3 then they should be little different from the previous year. If you grow from tubers they will flower slightly earlier than from rooted cuttings, presumably because the plant does not have to form a new tuber system first. Usefull for the large flowered monsters which tend to flower late. Disbudding side shoots will give you larger flowers. I think named form Dahlias are only cheap in countries where they don't have to be lifted and stored each year, or if you grow seed strains. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. From bulborum@gmail.com Thu Mar 10 14:27:52 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 20:27:51 +0100 What I mean with cheap is just you have for a few dollar or pound 3-4 months flowers special if you take out the first few young flower buts and take out all the seed-pods so they can't set seeds and bryan is absolute right its easy to make cuttings if you start early , for example now inside Roland 2011/3/10 Brian Whyer : > Dahlia nurseries will grow named forms year after year taking cuttings from their previous years tubers, with the same quality each year. If you are planting or splitting tubers and restrict the shoots to just 2 or 3 then they should be little different from the previous year. If you grow from tubers they will flower slightly -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From Santoury@aol.com Thu Mar 10 14:28:52 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAD707A02CD1C-1180-1B77D@webmail-m131.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 14:28:32 -0500 Thanks - very helpful info! Now to find a good inexpensive source for a variety of these! Jude -----Original Message----- From: Brian Whyer To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 2:23 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Dahlias < Are you talking about cuttings from the stem ? Because when you say "cuttings from the < previous year's tubers" that confuses me, since you say the plant doesn't "need to form a < new tuber system" ? You can carefully divide the tuber "cluster" vertically down through the stem, taking care to keep a portion of the main stem with each tuber, preferably after the plant starts shooting so you get 1 or more new shoots on each division. Or you can slice off the shoots close to the stem and root them in the usual gritty rooting compost, and establish a new plant first from each cutting. They should root in 2-3 weeks; as long as you cut close to the tuber. Leave a couple of shoots on the old tuber and you will have a number of new plants from the one original tuber clump. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 -----Original Message----- From: Brian Whyer brian.whyer@btinternet.com Dahlia nurseries will grow named forms year after year taking cuttings from their previous years tubers, with the same quality each year. If you are planting or splitting tubers and restrict the shoots to just 2 or 3 then they should be little different from the previous year. If you grow from tubers they will flower slightly earlier than from rooted cuttings, presumably because the plant does not have to form a new tuber system first. Usefull for the large flowered monsters which tend to flower late. Disbudding side shoots will give you larger flowers. I think named form Dahlias are only cheap in countries where they don't have to be lifted and stored each year, or if you grow seed strains. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Thu Mar 10 14:44:58 2011 Message-Id: <25048992.208013.1299786294882.JavaMail.www@wwinf1k24> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 20:44:54 +0100 (CET) Hello Dennis, The Dahlias I had most succes with overwintering perfectly happily in the open ground were: Dahlia merckii and it's white form, D.'Amber' which succombed sadly to voles eating all it's tubers one winter.I had masses of it and it was wonderful! I loved it's simplicity and divided it like any other herbaceous perrenial. The D.sherfii hybrid 'Ragged Robin' seems very tough too. I have no experience with it's sister seedling 'Dark Desire'. All these could easily be bought and then cuttings taken in spring to make quickly lots more for the garden. Other species and "botanical" hybrids are worth experimenting with. D.coccinea palmeri was not hardy at all for me. Your climate will be more severe though than mine ever would be I think. Mark > Message du 10/03/11 19:14 > De : "Dennis Kramb" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Dahlias > > I don't recall much discussion about Dahlias on PBS. Or maybe I just > ignored the discussions because I wasn't growing them at the time. But I'm > in the mood to try them again. They were one of my first garden plants, and > I miss having them. > > Are there any cold hardy varieties on the market? (I'm in Zone 6). Or is > it still necessary to lift them in winter? It was the lifting that turned > me off Dahlias all those years ago. But maybe if I have a small quantity > then I can manage the lifting. > > I see tons of varieties for sale at the big box stores. But I do prefer to > buy from specialty nurseries whenever possible. > > I'm interested to hear what you folks grow..... > > Dennis in Cincy > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Thu Mar 10 14:49:26 2011 Message-Id: <241672.13257.qm@web65909.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 11:49:25 -0800 (PST) I've overwintered Dahlia 'Union Jack' from Old House Gardens here in zone 6 (East Tennessee) the winter of 2009 and it grew just fine in 2010. It's overwintering again, due to me forgetting to dig it up, but this winter/spring is much wetter than normal. We've had so much rain in the last month. I hope it'll be OK. We're zone 6 but we usually only get 5 or less nights in the single digits (F) Susan E. Tennessee, USA zone 6 From totototo@telus.net Thu Mar 10 16:25:34 2011 Message-Id: <4D78CA36.20830.84C081A@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Dahlias Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 12:55:18 -0800 On 10 Mar 2011, at 13:21, santoury@aol.com wrote: > There are no hardy ones that I am aware of. I can winter them over, keep dry in > paper bags, but the second year's display is never the same as the first, from > freshly bought tubers. For me, anyway. The dahlia fanciers never use the tubers directly to grow their prize-winning blooms. Instead they bring the over-wintered, dormant tubers into "gentle warmth", merely sitting on damp peat moss (I believe), and let them sprout, then take cuttings. By leaving at least one leaf node below each cutting, you take the dormant buds there begin to grow, so you get a geometrically increasing number of cuttings out of one sprout until the tuber is exhausted. A collateral advantage to growing from cuttings is that if the tuber is infested with some soil borne pathogen, the cutting grown plants will generally be free of it. Dahlias are very interesting as a plant increased strictly by vegetative means (under normal circumstances), yet at least some cultivars don't seem to lose vigor due to increasing virus titer. 'Bishop of Llandaff' is a good century old and still going strong. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From lum4inus@yahoo.com Thu Mar 10 18:40:20 2011 Message-Id: <661612.59098.qm@web56602.mail.re3.yahoo.com> From: Marie-Paule Opdenakker Subject: in Bloom Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 15:40:19 -0800 (PST) Hello bulbfriends, I’m pleasantly surprised,  I've managed to get a pamianthe in bloom , hooray, here  are a few photo’s. http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2700573780043288788VIcNPQ Kind Regards, Marie-Paule Belgium From Santoury@aol.com Thu Mar 10 18:47:08 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAD9490360659-1180-20914@webmail-m131.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: in Bloom Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 18:46:51 -0500 Very nice! I love it! Congrats! If you know of a place to get some seeds or offsets, let me know! Best, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Marie-Paule Opdenakker To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thu, Mar 10, 2011 6:40 pm Subject: [pbs] in Bloom Hello bulbfriends, I’m pleasantly surprised, I've managed to get a pamianthe in bloom , hooray, here are a few photo’s. http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2700573780043288788VIcNPQ Kind Regards, Marie-Paule Belgium _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki = From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Thu Mar 10 20:02:18 2011 Message-Id: <396271.13512.qm@web65908.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: in Bloom Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 17:02:17 -0800 (PST) Congratulations, Marie- Paule!!! Susan From CGeat25049@aol.com Thu Mar 10 21:30:12 2011 Message-Id: <10d29d.61e487d5.3aaae331@aol.com> From: CGeat25049@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 98, Issue 14 Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 21:30:10 -0500 (EST) : You can carefully divide the tuber "cluster" vertically down through the stem, taking care to keep a portion of the main stem with each tuber, preferably after the plant starts shooting so you get 1 or more new shoots on each division. Or I have never heard of dividing the cluster through the stem to propagate a dahlia I understood that you had to examine the tubers of the cluster looking for an eye and then that tuber , detached ,would grow a new plant. I am doing them from seed right now. I have Fireworks blooming from seed and somewhere amongst my thousands of plant sI probably have the Collarette variety and cactus flowered as well. From rosesrus@sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 10 22:30:34 2011 Message-Id: <705946.9302.qm@web82201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: "rosesrus@sbcglobal.net" Subject: planting seeds Date: Thu, 10 Mar 2011 19:30:29 -0800 (PST) Hello everyone, I have been growing south African bulbs for a few years and now I am trying to grow seeds. I have the following seeds coming to me soon: Cypella Galtonia Herbertia Hesperxiphium Moraea Rhodophiala Solenomelus Panctatium Calochortus My understanding is that these would be planted in the fall (winter growing-summer dormant) If I get them now should I keep them inside in the bags they come in or put them in my soil mix in a pot but keep them dry? thanks N.Rose zone 9 San Jose California From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Fri Mar 11 01:44:25 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Dahlias Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 07:44:13 +0100 Brian, It is incorrect to say the cuttings have to form tubers first. Dahlias are flowering without tubers from cutings. They only make tubers around september when days getting shorter. I also suggest to take basal cuttings from the dahlias as clos as you can cut to the roots. This is necessary because stems are hollow, but at the base not. So they can root. I've tried the cuting methos years ago, and well some of them rooted. Dennis, Dahlias need a lot of food and water, especially the large ones. They are quite a display especially in autumn, when weather cools, they grow bigger flowers if you disbud them. My favourites were White Perfection (if you disbud and keep it well you may have a foot wide flowers), Chat Noir, Vuurvogel, well too much to tell :) Regards, Jan Hungary From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Fri Mar 11 09:08:39 2011 Message-Id: <103561.22691.qm@web86302.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Dahlias Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 14:08:36 +0000 (GMT) It is incorrect to say the cuttings have to form tubers first. Dahlias are flowering without tubers from cutings. They only make tubers around september when days getting shorter. You are correct of course, I over simplyfied to keep it short, but given a limited amount of nutrients a tuber that has formed roots and shoots may be several weeks ahead of a newly rooted cutting taken from it, that has to form the top growth and a new root and tuber system. It is just the limited nutrients and too many shoots that gives smaller flowers. I also suggest to take basal cuttings from the dahlias as clos as you can cut to the roots. This is necessary because stems are hollow, but at the base not. This also applies to many other herbaceous plants such as named forms of Lupins and Delphiniums, where you need to avoid the hollow stems. It amazed me last summer how quickly a Lupin formed an initial root, in just a few days, although they were just as brittle and difficult to handle as seed grown Lupin roots.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8     From SRS0=3msHjX=WE=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Fri Mar 11 10:41:05 2011 Message-Id: <050401cbdffd$e9796c80$bc6c4580$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:06:33 -0500 Hi, Although I take all the usual precautions, around this time of year I always get a few pots of cyclamen seedlings that 'damp off'. Can anyone please recommend an effective preventative agent or treatment that they know works and is available in the USA. No herbal remedies J Thanks, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From Tony@plantdelights.com Fri Mar 11 10:54:26 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Dahlia rooting Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:52:57 -0500 Brian: Back in my flower show days (the late 1970's), I discovered that many cut flower stems could be rooted after the show was over, with dahlias being one of the most successful. You will need to be sure that there is one vegetative bud on the shoot to be rooted. Since we had our shows in October, I kept them indoors over the first winter, so they could develop a tuber after rooting. I think there are lots of propagation opportunities missed when flower show specimens are discarded. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Brian Whyer Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 9:09 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Dahlias It is incorrect to say the cuttings have to form tubers first. Dahlias are flowering without tubers from cutings. They only make tubers around september when days getting shorter. You are correct of course, I over simplyfied to keep it short, but given a limited amount of nutrients a tuber that has formed roots and shoots may be several weeks ahead of a newly rooted cutting taken from it, that has to form the top growth and a new root and tuber system. It is just the limited nutrients and too many shoots that gives smaller flowers. I also suggest to take basal cuttings from the dahlias as clos as you can cut to the roots. This is necessary because stems are hollow, but at the base not. This also applies to many other herbaceous plants such as named forms of Lupins and Delphiniums, where you need to avoid the hollow stems. It amazed me last summer how quickly a Lupin formed an initial root, in just a few days, although they were just as brittle and difficult to handle as seed grown Lupin roots. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Fri Mar 11 11:09:52 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: in Bloom Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 17:09:39 +0100 Marie Paule Great flowers. Congratulations. I can smell the flowers Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Marie-Paule Opdenakker Verzonden: vrijdag 11 maart 2011 0:40 Aan: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Onderwerp: [pbs] in Bloom Hello bulbfriends, I’m pleasantly surprised,  I've managed to get a pamianthe in bloom , hooray, here  are a few photo’s. http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2700573780043288788VIcNPQ Kind Regards, Marie-Paule Belgium From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Fri Mar 11 11:38:00 2011 Message-Id: <410-220113511163756890@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:37:56 -0500 > Although I take all the usual precautions, around this time of year I always > get a few pots of cyclamen seedlings that 'damp off'. Can anyone please > recommend an effective preventative agent or treatment that they know works > and is available in the USA. No herbal remedies J Hi John, Banrot wettable powder. But, you probably brought it in with your sowing medium. I've devolved back to milled sphagnum and coarse sand since moving down here. Best, Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolin USDA 8 First Wachendorfia of the season this morn From dells@voicenet.com Fri Mar 11 11:41:29 2011 Message-Id: <2747.67.165.3.6.1299861688.squirrel@webmail.voicenet.com> From: dells@voicenet.com Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:41:28 -0500 (EST) Dear John, I use a water suspension of Captan in a spray bottle and spray the surface of seed pot until the seedlings seem to be well-established. Dell Dell Sherk, SE Pennsylvania, zone 6/7 > Hi, > > > > Although I take all the usual precautions, around this time of year I always > get a few pots of cyclamen seedlings that 'damp off'. Can anyone please > recommend an effective preventative agent or treatment that they know works > and is available in the USA. No herbal remedies J > > > > Thanks, > > > > J. > > > > John T Lonsdale PhD > 407 Edgewood Drive, > Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA > > Home: 610 594 9232 > Cell: 484 678 9856 > Fax: 315 571 9232 > > Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at > http://www.edgewoodgardens.net > > USDA Zone 6b > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Mar 11 12:51:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: European Romuleas Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 08:43:16 -0800 Mary Sue wrote, >Angelo says these plants are instead Romulea ramiflora which has a >rather wide distribution in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy and >Greece. Since one of the photos on the wiki showed the back of the >tepals and the bracts (often an important identification feature of >Romulea species) and since he has the key (in Italian that he can >read) he can confirm what they are. Would Angelo be able to post the key or a link to it on the wiki or on this list? I have quite a number of European Romulea species in the bulb house, grown from seed from various sources under various names, and I would like to confirm (or disconfirm) their identity. People rarely think of growing European romuleas because they're little and don't make much of a splash, but grouped closely they're pretty, and nothing could be easier from seed. I used to have a strain of Romulea bulbocodium called 'Knightshayes Form' that was quite showy, brilliant purple and rather large-flowered, but I put it in the garden where it promptly was eaten by voles. I'd be glad to get it again if possible. Most of these species are purple (often with brownish stripes) or white, but there is one golden yellow one, R. crocea. It's in flower here now. When I had it in a pot the relatively large flowers were held several inches above the soil surface on stems that tended to flop, but now that it's planted in a raised bed they opened almost at ground level, which is something that pleases the alpine gardener if not every gardener. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From SRS0=3msHjX=WE=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Fri Mar 11 12:17:29 2011 Message-Id: <052c01cbe00b$e8ef73a0$bace5ae0$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:46:45 -0500 Hi Mark, That would be great. I bought some Banrot a few years ago to try to treat Daphne root rot (Pythium and Phytophthora) - it didn't work - but I still have it and never thought to try it for damping off. Will it 'cure' an active infection, or at least stop further spread within a pot? My medium is the BioComp BC5/perlite mix. I do use a peroxide sterilant spray in the greenhouse every summer on all the surfaces and find that helps a lot, but haven't done so for the past couple of years. Reminder to self... Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Fri Mar 11 11:59:14 2011 Message-Id: <334996.85340.qm@web86308.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Dahlia rooting Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 16:59:12 +0000 (GMT) Back in my flower show days (the late 1970's), I discovered that many cut flower stems could be rooted after the show was over, with dahlias being one of the most successful.  You will need to be sure that there is one vegetative bud on the shoot to be rooted. Since we had our shows in October, I kept them indoors over the first winter, so they could develop a tuber after rooting. I think there are lots of propagation opportunities missed when flower show specimens are discarded. And of course when that fabled black or blue sport Dahlia occurs as a side shoot it will be the only way to do it. Almost anything will root with care but a side shoot helps considerably the next stage to that fortune you dream of. Brian From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Fri Mar 11 12:40:52 2011 Message-Id: <410-220113511174048734@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 12:40:48 -0500 Will it 'cure' an > active infection, or at least stop further spread within a pot? My medium > is the BioComp BC5/perlite mix. > John I had reasonable success with it on Aloes and Mesembs last year. I also like to put the seed pots where they have excellent airflow and no longer use Biocomp (the factory is in nearby Edenton). It just doesn't stand up well in pots here (something funky happens with either the peanut shells or the cotton frass). I choose Banrot because it is a broad spectrum pesticide with at least two active ingredients. Cheers, Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USDA Zone 8 From Santoury@aol.com Fri Mar 11 12:55:33 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAE2C98782FD3-1914-F8A9@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: European Romuleas Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 12:55:12 -0500 Hi all, I do not believe I have any Romuleas, and would like to try some seeds, if somebody has a few to share? I don't care about species, but would prefer that they at least be identified. Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Jane McGary To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Mar 11, 2011 11:43 am Subject: Re: [pbs] European Romuleas Mary Sue wrote, >Angelo says these plants are instead Romulea ramiflora which has a >rather wide distribution in Spain, Portugal, France, Italy and >Greece. Since one of the photos on the wiki showed the back of the >tepals and the bracts (often an important identification feature of >Romulea species) and since he has the key (in Italian that he can >read) he can confirm what they are. Would Angelo be able to post the key or a link to it on the wiki or on this list? I have quite a number of European Romulea species in the bulb house, grown from seed from various sources under various names, and I would like to confirm (or disconfirm) their identity. People rarely think of growing European romuleas because they're little and don't make much of a splash, but grouped closely they're pretty, and nothing could be easier from seed. I used to have a strain of Romulea bulbocodium called 'Knightshayes Form' that was quite showy, brilliant purple and rather large-flowered, but I put it in the garden where it promptly was eaten by voles. I'd be glad to get it again if possible. Most of these species are purple (often with brownish stripes) or white, but there is one golden yellow one, R. crocea. It's in flower here now. When I had it in a pot the relatively large flowers were held several inches above the soil surface on stems that tended to flop, but now that it's planted in a raised bed they opened almost at ground level, which is something that pleases the alpine gardener if not every gardener. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri Mar 11 12:57:50 2011 Message-Id: <592760.83463.qm@web84303.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 09:57:49 -0800 (PST) Whenever I have rare or otherwise valuable seed, I pressure cook the medium to be used.   Unless the seed itself is filthy (a quick Clorox bath should take care of that), this gives sure results for me.   Jim McKenney From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri Mar 11 13:11:53 2011 Message-Id: <136815.90900.qm@web84303.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Spring flowering in Kansas City Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:11:51 -0800 (PST) Jim Waddick's zone 5 garden seems to be on the same schedule as my zone 7 garden.   He wrote: "  G. elwesii -typical is a wimp here. Not even vaguely garden worthy I suspect it does not like our edge-of-prairie conditions."   Galanthus elwesii is right at home here, but another widely marketed snowdrop, Galanthus woronowii, is not. I've had it in my garden for many years and it does not bloom for me. Yet the plants look fine. On the other hand a friend who gardens about a mile away gets good results with this one. The green (not glaucous) foliage of this one is handsome, but the bloom to stem ratio is a disappointment.   Jim McKenney   From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri Mar 11 13:28:07 2011 Message-Id: <578164.1075.qm@web84304.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Dahlias Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:28:06 -0800 (PST) Dahlias are problematic in our East Coast gardens. They are easily grown, but flowers produced during the summer can be a disappointment because the heat fades the colors. In my experience, there is no advantage to be had in starting them early because they also slow down during the hot weather.   I have a friend who grows dahlias for show (we have a thriving local dahlia group) and she prefers late planting so that the plants come into bloom late in the summer during their first full flush of growth - and with luck, early enough before the first frosts to give a month or so of bloom to make it worth while.   The dahlias I've seen in cool summer areas (lush growth, loads of bloom and saturated colors)  are nothing like the ones I grow.   Jim McKenney From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 11 15:46:06 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: European Romuleas Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 13:15:45 -0600 >People rarely think of growing European romuleas because they're >little and don't make much of a splash, but grouped closely they're >pretty, and nothing could be easier from seed. I used to have a >strain of Romulea bulbocodium called 'Knightshayes Form' that was >quite showy, brilliant purple and rather large-flowered, but I put >it in the garden where it promptly was eaten by voles. I'd be glad >to get it again if possible. Dear Jane, This is raising a possibility. I have never given a second thought to Romulea, but how hardy are these smaller European species and selections? Any have a chance in Zone 5/6 ? I'm always up for a 'trial' . I recall seeing the 'Knightshayes Form' listed somewhere, but ti might google too. Anyone have success growing these in the north? Ellen ? Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 11 15:46:07 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Spring flowering in Kansas City - Galanthus / Leucojum Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 13:21:21 -0600 Jim McK wrote; >Galanthus elwesii is right at home here, but another widely marketed >snowdrop, Galanthus woronowii, is not. I've had it in my garden for >many years and it does not bloom for me. Yet the plants look fine. >On the other hand a friend who gardens about a mile away gets good >results with this one. The green (not glaucous) foliage of this one >is handsome, but the bloom to stem ratio is a disappointment. I do grow G. woronowii -or at least plants with that name. It does just fine, multiplies and blooms, but as you say the flower to foliage ratio is disappointing. I meant to add Leucojum vernus carpaticum. This crazy thing comes up with its yellow & white flowers first and after barely an inch above ground, the flowers open fully and hang. Self sown seedlings have spread the original clump out a couple feet and it obviously comes true from seed. And I am thrilled to see the double flowered 'Gertrude Wister' has multiplied well and buds are showing already. A few days of mild weather are in the forecast and the ground is "writhing" with bulbs, buds and shoots. Spring ? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri Mar 11 14:47:22 2011 Message-Id: <28093809.275552.1299872835244.JavaMail.www@wwinf2232> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Spring flowering in Kansas City; Galanthus woronowii Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:47:15 +0100 (CET) Re: Galanthus woronowii. When visiting this species in it's native habitat it soon became clear that we are growing poor forms. Low altitude forms down by the Black Sea are rather poor small flowered and leafy things. The higher you climb the better the ratio flower to foliage is.Some of the highest altitude forms are fantastic large flowering and dwarfish plants.It just is a pity that in cultivation the lowland forms prevail. Hunt around and maybe you will come across some? Best regards, Mark > Message du 11/03/11 19:12 > De : "Jim McKenney" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Spring flowering in Kansas City > > Jim Waddick's zone 5 garden seems to be on the same schedule as my zone 7 garden. >   > He wrote: "  G. elwesii -typical is a wimp here. Not even vaguely garden worthy I suspect it does not like our edge-of-prairie conditions." >   > Galanthus elwesii is right at home here, but another widely marketed snowdrop, Galanthus woronowii, is not. I've had it in my garden for many years and it does not bloom for me. Yet the plants look fine. On the other hand a friend who gardens about a mile away gets good results with this one. The green (not glaucous) foliage of this one is handsome, but the bloom to stem ratio is a disappointment. >   > Jim McKenney > >   > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri Mar 11 14:48:15 2011 Message-Id: <525F0D45-2A8F-4219-852C-73CCD7886F07@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Dahlia rooting Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:48:09 -0800 Back about the same time, I thought I could do the same thing with cutflowers that I bought specially for the purpose. Chrysanthemums, I think. When I got them home I found all the buds along the stems had been removed. But that won't have been done for a flower show, so I'll try again. Diane On 11-Mar-11, at 8:59 AM, Brian Whyer wrote: > Back in my flower show days (the late 1970's), I discovered that > many cut flower stems could be rooted after the show was over, From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Mar 11 15:35:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Dahlia rooting Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:35:51 +0000 Diane, it is a regular practice to remove any BUD from cut flower Chrysanthemum to avoid access to further propagation of the variety. > From: voltaire@islandnet.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 11:48:09 -0800 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Dahlia rooting > > Back about the same time, I thought I could do the same thing with > cutflowers that I bought specially for the purpose. Chrysanthemums, I > think. When I got them home I found all the buds along the stems had > been removed. But that won't have been done for a flower show, so > I'll try again. > > Diane > > On 11-Mar-11, at 8:59 AM, Brian Whyer wrote: > > > Back in my flower show days (the late 1970's), I discovered that > > many cut flower stems could be rooted after the show was over, > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ksayce@willapabay.org Fri Mar 11 19:09:27 2011 Message-Id: <44B091E5-FF2C-449D-9507-6B5E12856C60@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: European Romuleas Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 16:09:22 -0800 I too would like to try Romuleas from seed. If there are members who can contribute Romulea seed, please think of us, the pre-Romulea willing garden experimenters. Kathleen PNW coast, with no noticeable tsunami damage in this area, unlike many other coastal areas From arnold140@verizon.net Fri Mar 11 21:35:52 2011 Message-Id: <165292997.142082.1299897544794.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:39:04 -0600 (CST) John: Could you elaborate on the peroxide sterilant, please. Arnold I do use a peroxide sterilant spray in the greenhouse every summer on all the surfaces and find that helps a lot, From pelarg@aol.com Fri Mar 11 21:41:57 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAE7624EE5C25-D7C-4628@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: planting seeds Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 21:41:38 -0500 (EST) You may want to look each of them up, not all are winter growers. Galtonia, for one, includes only summer growing species, and can be started now. The others are generally winter growers, but it depends on the species, eg some Moraeas and Rhodophilas are summer growers. For winter growers, store your seed in their pkts until September or October, then start when temps begin to cool off, they do not germinate well or at all in warm temps. Seed is best stored in the fridge, (not freezer), though everything on your list other than perhaps Rhodophiala (flat amaryllid seeds tend to die off after 6 months/1 yr or so at room temps) and will store just fine at room temps if you are going to plant this coming fall. Good luck, Ernie DeMarie Z6/7 Tuckahoe NY Where crocus, snowdrops, winter aconites, and bulbous irises are making a nice show -----Original Message----- From: rosesrus To: pbs Sent: Fri, Mar 11, 2011 9:08 pm Subject: [pbs] planting seeds Hello everyone, have been growing south African bulbs for a few years and now I am trying to row seeds. I have the following seeds coming to me soon: Cypella altonia erbertia esperxiphium oraea hodophiala olenomelus anctatium alochortus My understanding is that these would be planted in the fall (winter rowing-summer dormant) If I get them now should I keep them inside in the bags hey come in or put them in my soil mix in a pot but keep them dry? hanks .Rose one 9 an Jose California _______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From SRS0=pBwGn0=WF=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Fri Mar 11 22:13:23 2011 Message-Id: <066001cbe05f$2689a160$739ce420$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Prevention of 'damping off' Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 21:42:37 -0500 Sure - I use a product called ZeroTol - http://www.biosafesystems.com/Product-HORT-ZeroTol.asp Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From tiede@pacbell.net Fri Mar 11 22:01:58 2011 Message-Id: <033701cbe061$d6b7a440$8426ecc0$@net> From: "Bracey Tiede" Subject: planting seeds Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 19:01:51 -0800 Here in San Jose, we are quite successful with many of these bulbs. Not all are from South Africa. Cypella is new world, Galtonia needs summer water, Herbertia is new world and needs summer water. Moraea does well, and Solenomelus does well. The rest can be researched on the wiki by using the search box at the top of this page. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/HomePage Off to make dinner. Cheers, Bracey San Jose -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of rosesrus@sbcglobal.net Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2011 7:30 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] planting seeds Hello everyone, I have been growing south African bulbs for a few years and now I am trying to grow seeds. I have the following seeds coming to me soon: Cypella Galtonia Herbertia Hesperxiphium Moraea Rhodophiala Solenomelus Panctatium Calochortus My understanding is that these would be planted in the fall (winter growing-summer dormant) If I get them now should I keep them inside in the bags they come in or put them in my soil mix in a pot but keep them dry? thanks N.Rose zone 9 San Jose California From CGeat25049@aol.com Fri Mar 11 22:55:38 2011 Message-Id: <149c30.66edffcf.3aac48b4@aol.com> From: CGeat25049@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 98, Issue 17 Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 22:55:32 -0500 (EST) This is an idea I have thought about in the past. Has there ever been studies on which plants can be propagated from leaves or even segments of leaves?. I had proposed heading a group at the Indoor Gardening Society in New York years ago, but the idea fell through due to my health issues, It's common knowledge that saintpaulias are candidates as well as rhizomatous begonias and gesneriads. I accidentally found out that cinerarias also will produce plantlets from a leaf when a leaf was buried during repotting. Sansevierias I think also will grow a plant from a leaf. Any othe rplants out there that can be listed? Is there a special botanical term for this type of propagation ? Cherry G From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri Mar 11 23:13:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: propagating from leaves Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:13:52 -0800 Tony Avent mentioned how he experimented with a purple-leaved Eucomis that he wanted to be able to sell. Cutting the leaves in sections and rooting them worked. E. Sparkling Burgundy is now grown by many. Diane Whitehead From ang.por@alice.it Sat Mar 12 03:35:23 2011 Message-Id: <12ea92fa0c1.ang.por@alice.it> From: "ang.por@alice.it" Subject: European Romulea Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 09:29:54 +0100 (CET) Dear Friends, it would be quite a long job to translate the whole taxonomy of Italian Romulea, which are 11 species by the way, most part of them being endemic of relatively small areas. Sure that most species have small flowers and have little horticoltural interest, but R. bulbocodium and ligustica have flowers not so small, just a bit less of the large SA species (i.e. R. monadelpha which is blooming now) and make nice clumps in few years. Of course this is a genus for alpine-plants lovers, with them you can't make a focal point in your garden ! About the hardiness I have no clues, from the habitat I can guess zone 8 should be fine. I will remember to send seeds to the BX of both the species I grow. Angelo Porcelli Apulia - Southern Italy P.S. Jane if you have photos, send me privately Alice body {margin:0;padding:0;} #footer { height:13px; font-size:11px; font-family:Arial, FreeSans, sans-serif; color:#ADADAD; margin:0; padding:7px 12px; text-align:right; border-top:1px solid #dcdcdc; } #footer a { text-decoration:none; color:#ADADAD; } #footer a:hover { color:#848484; } Inviato dalla nuova Alice mail From d.avensis@virgin.net Sat Mar 12 05:18:19 2011 Message-Id: <37528760104B4E0785D1B8C9283EDFD9@Auricula> From: "David Nicholson" Subject: European Romuleas Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 09:43:36 -0000 There is a useful, if short key, and short descriptions of European romuleas, of which I grow quite a few, in Christopher Grey-Wilson and Brian Mathew's book "Bulbs:The bulbous plants of Europe and their allies". I would be happy to scan copies for those who might be interested but of course this would mean them providing me with their private Email addresses. David Nicholson in Devon. UK Zone 9b From bulborum@gmail.com Sat Mar 12 04:52:56 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Spring flowering in Kansas City - Galanthus / Leucojum Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 10:52:52 +0100 Hello Jim Do you know a source for Leucojum Gertrude Wister and maybe you have a picture to show us Roland And I am thrilled to see the double flowered 'Gertrude Wister' has multiplied well and buds are showing already. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From oothal@hotmail.com Sat Mar 12 11:46:16 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: planting seeds Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 10:46:12 -0600 Hi there, I have grown most of my bulbs from seed. I have quite a few though I am just now starting to get blooms from some of them. Since you have grown SA bulbs for a few years already know that there are several different growing conditions. Some of which are: Evergreen - moisture year round Summer grow - Winter dormant completely dry Summer grow - Winter dormant some moisture Winter grow - Summer dormant completely dry Winter grow - Summer dormant some moisture Then add that: Some seed require cold moist stratification Some seed require planting as soon as possible because they germinate immediately (amaryllids that have fleshy seeds are some in this category) Some seed require planting as soon as possible because they have such a short viability. Some seed require smoke treatment Some seed require gibberellic acid treatment I am sure I have left some out but most of my bulb seedlings fall under one of these conditions. Then you have to take into consideration where the seeds were harvested. Northern Hemisphere or Southern Hemisphere. Not all seed have a long viability. Taking a seed harvested in the Southern Hemisphere and sending them north into the Northern Hemisphere will cause the seed to be out of sync with their natural growing cycle. Waiting until their proper conditions may/may not exceed the seeds viability period. These are just some of the things to be considered. Some online research in required to determine the best course of action. You ask about keeping seed in the bags they come in or plant them out. I never store seed in sealed plastic bags. Some suppliers use them, which is fine for shipping but not for storage. A cool dry place is best. Be very careful of the fridge. Make sure the location in the fridge you choose does not freeze. A few years ago someone visiting me turned my fridge down because their soda pop was not getting as cold as they liked. Finding all my veggies frozen was most frustrating. Thankfully my cold moist stratification seed were in a different fridge. I personally do not like to plant seed out ahead of time in pots, though that is just me. For me this reduces the chance of some fungus or bug in the soil from attacking the seed until they get a good chance at germination. If I get no germination the first year I move the pots to a dry place and let sit until next season and try them again. I always give seed at least 2 years to germinate. Several times I have had very poor germination from a seed only to have many more germinate on the second year. Good luck with your seed. Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a > Subject: [pbs] planting seeds > > Hello everyone, > I have been growing south African bulbs for a few years and now I am trying to > grow seeds. I have the following seeds coming to me soon: > Cypella > Galtonia > Herbertia > Hesperxiphium > Moraea > Rhodophiala > Solenomelus > Panctatium > Calochortus > > My understanding is that these would be planted in the fall (winter > growing-summer dormant) If I get them now should I keep them inside in the bags > they come in or put them in my soil mix in a pot but keep them dry? > thanks > N.Rose From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Mar 12 12:39:34 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Leucojum 'Gertrude Wister' Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 11:39:24 -0600 >Do you know a source for Leucojum Gertrude Wister >and maybe you have a picture to show us Dear Roland, I do not know a commercial source. These were a gift from a friend and the first good bloom. Last year, weird weather damaged the flowers. I do hope to get some good pix - soon and I'll post them. They seem to be fairly vigorous growers so they will eventually get into the hands of a specialty grower and multiply for sale. May be too much of a collector's item only. More popping up daily. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Mar 12 13:39:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: planting seeds Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 10:20:56 -0800 Regarding the list N. Rose sent, I would keep the Calochortus seeds until next October at room temperature (not too hot) and plant them then. Summer is not humid in San Jose. I've had very good results from quite old stored Calochortus seed. Herbertia and Galtonia will germinate if planted after receipt in spring. I haven't grown the others, which are too tender for my climate. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 07:30 PM 3/10/2011, you wrote: > Hello everyone, >I have been growing south African bulbs for a few years and now I am >trying to >grow seeds. I have the following seeds coming to me soon: > Cypella >Galtonia >Herbertia >Hesperxiphium >Moraea >Rhodophiala >Solenomelus >Panctatium >Calochortus > >My understanding is that these would be planted in the fall (winter >growing-summer dormant) If I get them now should I keep them inside >in the bags >they come in or put them in my soil mix in a pot but keep them dry? From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Mar 12 13:39:41 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: European Romuleas Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 10:34:23 -0800 David Nicholson wrote: >There is a useful, if short key, and short descriptions of European >romuleas, of which I grow quite a few, in Christopher Grey-Wilson >and Brian Mathew's book "Bulbs:The bulbous plants of Europe and their allies". Thanks, David, I have this book but I don't pull it out very often these days because there have been so many taxonomic changes since it was published. I'll take it out to the bulb house and see what I can see. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From zigur@hotmail.com Sat Mar 12 13:43:38 2011 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: planting seeds Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 10:43:36 -0800 Justin, Which genera were you thinking of? > Some seed require smoke treatment > Some seed require gibberellic acid treatment Thanks, T From msittner@mcn.org Sat Mar 12 14:48:05 2011 Message-Id: <20110312194800.028344C013@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: planting seeds Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 11:46:50 -0800 Dear Norm, It would be helpful for you to include the species for some of your seeds which are not all winter growing, summer dormant. Some of the genera you listed have summer growing, winter growing, and mostly evergreen species. Hesperoxiphion peruviana which is probably the one you have is another one to start in spring as it is a summer grower. Don't forget that Nhu and Mike Mace have created some wonderful information about growing from seed on the wiki. Nhu took on the project of adding information I had saved that others had offered over the years and adding it to the wiki page. This took him a very long time. Please see: Mary Sue From d.avensis@virgin.net Sat Mar 12 15:55:08 2011 Message-Id: From: "David Nicholson" Subject: European Romuleas Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 20:55:02 -0000 Earlier in this thread Jane McGary mentioned Romulea bulbocodium 'Knightshayes' and I thought I might add a little background information. 'Knightshayes' refers to Knightshayes Court and Gardens here in the county of Devon in the far south west of England. The house and the gardens are managed by our National Trust and are open to visitors at most times of the year. Indeed my wife and I visited the gardens today, unfortunately minus camera!! Narcissi were in full splendour with drifts of N. obvillaris; banks of N. cyclamineus underplanted with Chionodoxa; blue and white Scillas; some early Rhododendrons and Magnolias. More information on Knightshayes from the link below. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knightshayes_Court Romulea is not the only genus bearing a 'Knightshayes' as there is an Erythronium 'Knightshayes Pink' thought to be either a hybrid or form of E. revolutum. Knightshayes does have another Romulea contact in that the gardens have a patch of England's only indigenous (I think!) Romulea, columnae, which is also found on sand dunes close to my home. I have to say that having visited Knightshayes many times I have seen neither of the two Romulea species. I had meant to track down one of the gardeners on todays visit to ask further but they proved to be invisible and much like buses, when you don't need one there are many, they were en masse as we were in the car leaving the property. Some pictures of a visit we made to Knightshayes in April 2008 can be seen here including one of Erythronium 'Knightshayes Pink'. It's a beautiful place. http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=1704.msg42757#msg42757 David Nicholson in Devon, UK Zone 9b From rosesrus@sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 12 19:19:08 2011 Message-Id: <548700.95934.qm@web82208.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: "rosesrus@sbcglobal.net" Subject: planting seeds Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 16:19:06 -0800 (PST) It was suggested that I include the full plant name. Gee that might help ya think! CalochortusVestae C. Plummerae C. Weedii PancratiumMaritimum CypellaCoelestis C. Herbertii Galtonia Viridiflora HerbertiaLahue Hesperxiphium Peruvianum MoraeaHuttonii RhodophialaGranatiflora Solenomelus Pedunculatus Thanks you for your patience N. Rose zone 9 San Jose California From pslate22@yahoo.com Sat Mar 12 19:37:02 2011 Message-Id: <290098.89458.qm@web111913.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: propagating from leaves Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 16:36:59 -0800 (PST) I have grown bulblets from Lachenalia leaves and it's very easy to do, particularly with species having wider leaves..  The huge advantage is that you get a flowering plant the following year.  Has anyone else done this and if so, with which species?  Or any other genera? Thanks, Pamela   Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Mar 12 22:21:46 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Feeling Lucky Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 21:21:37 -0600 Dear PBSers, Isn't it nice when something finally works out.? How many times have a I planted seeds or bought plants of I unguiculares? I've transplanted seedlings to all different spots in the garden and they all succumb to winter cold or wet. Two years ago I got yet another plant of I. unguiculares 'Mary Barnard' ( also spelled as 'Mary Bernard'). This is a wild collected named selection, but may just be a typical looking cv. The flowers are pale silvery lilac on the outside, but open to rich blue violet on the inside of the petals. It can bloom in its more amenable Zone 7 and warmer from late fall through early spring. It should not be hardy in my Zone 5/6 garden. Regardless, I planted this latest addition in yet a new spot near the garage foundation and mulched it with leaves to cover. Something that is ill advised since it retains moisture. I did remove the leaf mulch covering 'too early" or at least before one should uncover sensitive plants, but I wanted it to stay dry - ish. Today after two days of 'teasing' in cool damp days, the sun came out strong and so did two large flowers - a first for my Kansas City garden. I know it is not something rare or special, but it is a difficult plant to grow and bloom in my conditions. I do not have any deception that it will prove long term and hardy without a lot of special care, treatment and timing, but all the pieces cam together and I finally got flowering. The closely related I lazica seems also to have made it through another winter and I look forward to its first bloom too. Now all I need to get is I cretensis for a trifecta of this series of irises. Anyone with a plant of I cretensis to spare? Some folks seem to confuse these three species as they are the only species in this Iris Series. Fritz Kohlein in his book 'Iris' mentions how this confusion is only the result from someone not actually seeing the live plants. The foliage and form are very different indeed to share some distinctive floral characters. At least I know what the plants look like even if they are a challenge to grow. One down, two to go... so feeling pleased on a warm sunny pre-spring day in Kansas City. Whew! Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jgglatt@gmail.com Sat Mar 12 23:08:51 2011 Message-Id: <4D7C4352.4040204@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Roadside Galanthus Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2011 23:08:50 -0500 There's this road I regularly drive along. And every Spring I see wonderful clumps of Galanthus blooming in this patch of scruffy woods amid the brambles and amidst the debris. So today I pulled into the driveway, knocked on the door, complimented the fellow on "his" snowdrops and asked when they'd been planted, what could he tell me, etc. etc. Sigh. Turns out he's a tenant, been there two years. Previous tenant had been there for 15 years and didn't do much yard work.Sure, I could photograph and he even - with no suggestion from me - said I should go ahead and dig some up if I wanted any. It's Galanthus nivalis. Some of the smaller clumps are as large as both my hands outspread, and there are others considerably larger. There are a very few singletons or trios. Anyone have an idea how long they might have been growing there, for the bulbs to multiply sufficiently to reach this size? I just happened to have put a a small bucket and a trowel in the car before I headed out this morning . . . . I know there's been a recent discussion about digging / dividing snowdrops "in the green." But I figure the time to take these bulbs is when they're offered. I dug the smallest clump I could find. It separated in 19 flowering bulbs. When replanting I watered them in with some 5-10-5 liquid fertilizer and will repeat at the end of the month. It's not that they are anything extraordinary. It's that someone once upon a time must have planted a garden here and these are the survivors. It's like my other G. nivalis that are ex ex Lob's Woods. They came from a friend in Connecticut who had a neighbor who was a granddaughter of Mr. Krippendorf. Just call me sentimental. Judy in New Jersey where the snow is mostly gone but 3 inches of rain in 24 hours has left the ground so soggy I walked out of one shoe when getting back out onto my road after replanting these bulbs From pelarg@aol.com Sun Mar 13 07:59:18 2011 Message-Id: <8CDAF8D1BBA6335-1750-38D53@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Roadside Galanthus Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 07:58:32 -0400 (EDT) Hi Judy, We have loads of snowdrops naturalized here right along the Bronx River in Tuckahoe NY. Some are already out, including those which were clearly in an area where the river overflowed during the recent flooding. I suspect they started upstream, probably from garden trash many years ago, and have seeded downstream ever since. There is also a large colony on the other side of the parkway, away from the river, probably also started as throwaways from nearby houses. It must be ridiculously old. This is one "invasive" I truly enjoy, they do not bother neighboring vegetation and are soon gone anyway. Seems to be an example of a naturalized plant that plays well with others. The biggest threat to them comes from another, really bad, invasive, Ranunculus ficaria, which gains ground locally every year. Another naturalized bulb, which will appear later and is found somewhat deeper in the local woods,is Scilla siberica. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY Z6/7 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Mar 13 11:16:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: planting seeds Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 15:16:28 +0000 > CalochortusVestae SOW IN FALL > > C. Plummerae SOW IN FALL > > C. Weedii SOW IN FALL > > PancratiumMaritimum SOW IN FALL DO NOT COVER THE SEED > > CypellaCoelestis SOW IN FALL PERISHABLE SEED > > C. Herbertii SOW IN FALL PERISHABLE SEED > > Galtonia Viridiflora SOW IN SPRING > > HerbertiaLahue SOW IN FALL PERISHABLE SEED > > Hesperxiphium Peruvianum SOW IN SPRING > > MoraeaHuttonii SOW IN SPRING EVERGREEn > > RhodophialaGranatiflora SOW IN FALL PERISHABLE SEED > > Solenomelus Pedunculatus SOW IN FALL NOT A BULB; COMMON HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon Mar 14 17:15:31 2011 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: PBS Wiki, Web interruption Tuesday 15th Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2011 21:13:48 +0000 Hi, The PBS wiki and website will be moved to a new system on Tuesday 15th. March 2011 (tomorrow). The move is scheduled to last from 9am to 9pm US Eastern time (2pm - 2am GMT). The ip address associated with pacificbulbsociety.org will change at the same time. So you won't be able to use the new system until the change reaches your local name server (DNS). Expect the wiki/website to not be available for at least 12 hours and for some functionality to be missing for a bit longer. I'll keep you posted about progress. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK fax: +44(0)870-0520-941 From Santoury@aol.com Tue Mar 15 14:06:47 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB152D4C585C5-E9C-1AA1@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 14:06:24 -0400 Hey guys From time to time, I see advertisements, and website promotions, and the like, on these email groups, and I would like to add people to my email list, for when I revive my newsletters. I typically write them once or twice a month, with interesting info. about particular groups of plants, and then usually I list any new additions, or sprouts, of what I've recently planted, offering them for sale or trade. Very non-commercial. I was wondering if any of you would like to be added to my e-mail list, so that you would begin to receive these fun newsletters that I write? Kindly email me privately, and I will add you to my list. Best, and spring is coming, I promise ! :) Jude From bulborum@gmail.com Tue Mar 15 14:09:31 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 19:09:30 +0100 Hello jude your plants are on the road Roland 2011/3/15 : > Hey guys > From time to time, I see advertisements, and website promotions, and the like, on these email groups, and I would like to add people to my email list, for when I revive my newsletters. I typically write them once or twice a month, with interesting info. about particular groups of plants, and then usually I list any new -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From warren_keller@yahoo.com Tue Mar 15 14:22:17 2011 Message-Id: <1453065135-1300213330-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-648857061-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: warren_keller@yahoo.com Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 18:22:09 +0000 I'd like some plants too. I live in california Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: bulborum botanicum Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 19:09:30 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] My Newsletter / Email list Hello jude your plants are on the road Roland 2011/3/15 : > Hey guys > From time to time, I see advertisements, and website promotions, and the like, on these email groups, and I would like to add people to my email list, for when I revive my newsletters. I typically write them once or twice a month, with interesting info. about particular groups of plants, and then usually I list any new -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From msittner@mcn.org Tue Mar 15 15:17:36 2011 Message-Id: <20110315191735.0C7C14C1A2@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Plants of the Klein Karoo Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 12:16:52 -0700 Hi, We are collectors of plant books and I'd like to recommend a recently published field guide for South Africa, Plants of the Klein Karoo by Jan Vlok and Anne Lise Schutte-Vlok. I think we have all of the Kirstenbosch wild flower guides so you might wonder why we would need another field guide. We've been to the Little Karoo twice and once when in Montagu we talked to someone who told us rain was such a rare event, that when it did rain, everyone rushed outside to see it. Living in an area where there is a lot of rainfall in winter, especially true this year, I'm unlikely to be able to grow most of the plants featured in this book even if seeds were available. Still I'm thoroughly enjoying looking at it. The book has 568 pages and also comes with a CD with 2021 photographs of 1500 species. It is clearly written and has a good section describing the many habitats of this area. The descriptions of the plants give you a clear idea of what they look like, when they bloom, and where they bloom. The photographs are beautiful. And it has a combined index, not two indexes like some of the other guides. The authors obviously love where they live and know the plants in their area. Pages 45-143 include monocots members of this group might be interested in. There are many pages of Pelargoniums, but probably a lot of them are not geophytes. I think it is a good model for what a field guide should be although it is a bit heavy if you wanted to add it to your pack. We ordered this book from Silverhill Seeds and Books and it cost $39, but surface mail was an extra $27.50. If you are interested in this book and going to the IBSA Symposium in August you could order it in advance and save on the shipping. I never would have known there were so many treasures in this area. Some of them have extended ranges so plants pictured you might find in other areas too. Mary Sue From ds429@comcast.net Tue Mar 15 18:15:16 2011 Message-Id: <000001cbe35e$7f4ee920$7decbb60$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Clivia Conference Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2011 18:15:30 -0400 Hi All, There is a symposium sponsored by the North American Clivia Society and Longwood Gardens at Longwood in Kennett Square, PA, March 17-20. I know there will be PBS members there. I hope that I see you. Best wishes, Dell From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed Mar 16 11:36:28 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 08:36:25 -0700 Greetings, A South African nursery from whom I regularly purchase bulbs has informed me that they have a large allotment of rescue bulbs from sites in the northern, western Cape. The list of bulbs includes: Ammocharis longifolia, Ammocharis coranica, Boophane haemanthoides, Boophone disticha, Brunsvigia bosmaniae, Brunsvigia gregaria, Brunsvigia orientalis, Gethyllis afra, Gethyllis linearis, Haemanthus humilis and Haemanthus pubescens. These are all large, mature bulbs. Please send me a note off-list and I can give you the pricelist and contact information of the seller. -| From: bulborum botanicum Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 16:40:25 +0100 I am still waiting for my payee bulbs from last year from this seller and I am not the only one PM my personal if you want to know more Roland 2011/3/16 Kipp McMichael : > > Greetings, > >  A South African nursery from whom I regularly purchase bulbs has informed me that they have a large allotment of rescue bulbs from sites in the northern, western Cape. The list of bulbs includes: Ammocharis longifolia, Ammocharis coranica, Boophane haemanthoides, Boophone disticha, Brunsvigia bosmaniae, Brunsvigia gregaria, Brunsvigia orientalis, Gethyllis afra, Gethyllis linearis, Haemanthus humilis and Haemanthus pubescens. These are all large, mature bulbs. Please send me a note off-list and I can give you the pricelist and contact information of the seller. > > -| > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed Mar 16 11:53:44 2011 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: PBS Wiki, Web interruption Tuesday 15th Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:50:05 +0000 In message , David Pilling writes >The PBS wiki and website will be moved to a new system on Tuesday 15th. >March 2011 (tomorrow). >I'll keep you posted about progress. Everything is now back to normal. If you see anything you think is odd, drop me a private email, (or tell me via the contact page on the PBS website). Thanks to ibiblio.org the hosts of the PBS wiki for making the move trouble free. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK fax: +44(0)870-0520-941 From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 16 12:34:45 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB20F26B7559C-1630-792@webmail-m043.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:34:27 -0400 That does not sound comforting at all. Thank you for the heads-up! -----Original Message----- From: bulborum botanicum To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wed, Mar 16, 2011 11:40 am Subject: Re: [pbs] south african amaryllids I am still waiting for my payee bulbs from last year from this seller and I am not the only one PM my personal if you want to know more Roland 2011/3/16 Kipp McMichael : > > Greetings, > > A South African nursery from whom I regularly purchase bulbs has informed me that they have a large allotment of rescue bulbs from sites in the northern, western Cape. The list of bulbs includes: Ammocharis longifolia, Ammocharis coranica, Boophane haemanthoides, Boophone disticha, Brunsvigia bosmaniae, Brunsvigia gregaria, Brunsvigia orientalis, Gethyllis afra, Gethyllis linearis, Haemanthus humilis and Haemanthus pubescens. These are all large, mature bulbs. Please send me a note off-list and I can give you the pricelist and contact information of the seller. > > -| > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Mar 16 13:14:46 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 17:14:44 +0000 They rescue bulbs to sell them? This is the world upside down! I would encourage every one not to support this aberrhation > I am still waiting for my payee bulbs from last year > from this seller > and I am not the only one > > PM my personal if you want to know more > > Roland > > > > 2011/3/16 Kipp McMichael : > > > > Greetings, > > > > A South African nursery from whom I regularly purchase bulbs has informed me > that they have a large allotment of rescue bulbs from sites in the northern, > western Cape. The list of bulbs includes: Ammocharis longifolia, Ammocharis > coranica, Boophane haemanthoides, Boophone disticha, Brunsvigia bosmaniae, > Brunsvigia gregaria, Brunsvigia orientalis, Gethyllis afra, Gethyllis linearis, > Haemanthus humilis and Haemanthus pubescens. These are all large, mature bulbs. > Please send me a note off-list and I can give you the pricelist and contact > information of the seller. > > > > -| > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > -- > R de Boer > La Maugardiere 1 > F 27260 EPAIGNES > FRANCE > > Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 > Email: bulborum@gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed Mar 16 14:13:25 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 11:13:23 -0700 Alberto, South Africa is not merely parkland devoted to bulb habitat but is also a populated, growing country in which people continue to build houses, roads and businesses. The government of South Africa, at least to some extent, is enlightened enough to allow (and in some cases to do so itself) the rescue of plants on sites slated for development. Often, these plants are retained by agencies or developers for future restoration and mitigation of developed habitat. In this case, an agency that supervises these endeavors in the northern, western Cape is reducing its facilities and has chosen to sell these plants to this nursery (and perhaps others). Although I do not have the means to inquire directly with the South African government to confirm the provenance of these bulbs, I have no reason to doubt the word of the seller concerning his source. Rescued plants are not uncommon among reputable sellers of South African bulbs as development in that country continues to consume the habitat in which these plants reside (however sad the loss of such extraordinary habitat may be). Others have mentioned problems with ordering from d'Oblong (the seller) but, apart from sometimes slow shipping habits, I have not had a problem with them. -| They rescue bulbs to sell them? This is the world upside down! I would encourage every one not to support this aberrhation From bulborum@gmail.com Wed Mar 16 14:21:28 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 19:21:26 +0100 Maybe an idea to pay after receiving the bulbs Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 16 14:54:54 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB222BDF700CD-808-64911@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 14:54:41 -0400 Awesome - thank you very much! Just let me know what I can do to help you! Best, Jude -----Original Message----- From: bulborum botanicum To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Mar 15, 2011 2:09 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] My Newsletter / Email list Hello jude your plants are on the road Roland 2011/3/15 : > Hey guys > From time to time, I see advertisements, and website promotions, and the like, on these email groups, and I would like to add people to my email list, for when I revive my newsletters. I typically write them once or twice a month, with interesting info. about particular groups of plants, and then usually I list any new -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki = From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Wed Mar 16 14:57:19 2011 Message-Id: <357552.91056.qm@web65904.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: south african amaryllids/rescue plants Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 11:57:17 -0700 (PDT) This is also done with Cactus and desert tortoises in the American southwest. ________________________________ the rescue of plants on sites slated for development. Often, these plants are retained by agencies or developers for future restoration and mitigation of developed habitat. In this case, an agency that supervises these endeavors in the northern, western Cape is reducing its facilities and has chosen to sell these plants to this nursery (and perhaps others). From bulborum@gmail.com Wed Mar 16 15:00:22 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 20:00:21 +0100 2011/3/16 : Awesome - thank you very much! Just let me know what I can do to help you! Best, Jude Keep them alive good luck Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From warren_keller@yahoo.com Wed Mar 16 15:10:21 2011 Message-Id: <765099.61702.qm@web84409.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> From: Warren Keller Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 12:10:20 -0700 (PDT) Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i live in california. Warren From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed Mar 16 15:11:18 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 19:11:17 +0000 I would not object to purchasing from the development agency itself, after all they spend a lot of resources in their conservation work with no revenue. Rescue work has been performed by volunteers in South Africa for decades. They invested time, fuel, effort, hard work and the goal was to relocate plants that were ti be destroyed by new developments, very often new roads, etc. In no case they even thought of making profit from the emergency. Why not to support the few nurseries we know that spend lots of money travelling to collect seed in the wild to sell? Even the small amounts of bulbs and corms they occasionallly have for sale are typically immature, grown from seed. They evidently have the chance to collect from the wild material to sell and possibly make good mony from it if they wish too but their business is based on principles and decency. Some of them even state they do not sell SEED of endangered species. From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 16 17:11:38 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB235CDD9DEB2-808-66932@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: My Newsletter / Email list Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 17:11:08 -0400 Definitely - thank you again! Jude -----Original Message----- From: bulborum botanicum To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wed, Mar 16, 2011 3:00 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] My Newsletter / Email list 2011/3/16 : Awesome - thank you very much! Just let me know what I can do to help you! Best, Jude Keep them alive good luck Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 16 17:24:51 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB237B41AAE20-7F4-58DCE@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 17:24:44 -0400 Thanks for the offer. Open to any trades? Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Warren Keller To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wed, Mar 16, 2011 3:10 pm Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i live in california. Warren _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Wed Mar 16 17:38:37 2011 Message-Id: <20110316213836.DBE314C085@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Commercial Announcements Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 14:37:38 -0700 Hi, For some of you who are new to our list, you may not realized that we are sponsored for free by ibiblio.org as an educational organization, not a commercial one. We really do need to limit messages that are offers of things to sell. I know that many members of this list like to know of bulbs and seeds they might obtain so we try to find a compromise. Please limit announcements on this list to a brief message directly people to email you PRIVATELY for details (like the price) if you have something to sell. And please everyone if someone makes an offer of this nature, do not hit reply which will direct your reply to the list, but instead take the time to copy the email address of the sender into a new message and respond privately. Thanking you in advance on behalf of everyone. Mary Sue From warren_keller@yahoo.com Wed Mar 16 18:25:24 2011 Message-Id: <245015.9939.qm@web84408.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> From: Warren Keller Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 15:25:23 -0700 (PDT) sure what ya got? anything unusual? ________________________________ From: "santoury@aol.com" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 2:24 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis Thanks for the offer. Open to any trades? Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Warren Keller To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wed, Mar 16, 2011 3:10 pm Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis Hello there, i have about 25 bulbs of Haemanthus deformis i am selling from my collection, all are big mature sized bulbs, i was asking 30 a piece, so i was just wanting to let everyone know first on pbs, please email me for more info, i live in california. Warren       _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bluecowno1@hotmail.com Wed Mar 16 22:03:09 2011 Message-Id: From: ZHOUKAI Subject: south african amaryllids Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:58:08 +0800 Hi! I am very interested in these bulbs. Pleae send me the price list, thank you! Best Regards Kai from Shanghai > From: kimcmich@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 08:36:25 -0700 > Subject: [pbs] south african amaryllids > > > Greetings, > > A South African nursery from whom I regularly purchase bulbs has informed me that they have a large allotment of rescue bulbs from sites in the northern, western Cape. The list of bulbs includes: Ammocharis longifolia, Ammocharis coranica, Boophane haemanthoides, Boophone disticha, Brunsvigia bosmaniae, Brunsvigia gregaria, Brunsvigia orientalis, Gethyllis afra, Gethyllis linearis, Haemanthus humilis and Haemanthus pubescens. These are all large, mature bulbs. Please send me a note off-list and I can give you the pricelist and contact information of the seller. > > -| > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Thu Mar 17 02:19:29 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 07:19:28 +0100 Dear All, I hope you don't mind sharing some pictures from the common bulbs I have. https://picasaweb.google.com/agoston.janos123/2011Spr# Regards, Janos -- Protect the environment! Please think twice before printing this e-mail. || Védjük környezetünket, csak szükség esetén nyomtassa ki ezt a levelet! From pandi_bear@bigpond.com Thu Mar 17 07:55:16 2011 Message-Id: <009d01cbe48d$14a35040$3de9f0c0$@com> From: "Carolyn Fra" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 21:21:29 +1100 Hi Janos, I love all of these, :o) It looks like you are having a great Spring. Carolyn (Tasmania, Australia) -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of J. Agoston Sent: Thursday, 17 March 2011 5:19 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] spring in Hungary Dear All, I hope you don't mind sharing some pictures from the common bulbs I have. https://picasaweb.google.com/agoston.janos123/2011Spr# Regards, Janos From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Thu Mar 17 08:06:16 2011 Message-Id: <145510.85536.qm@web65905.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 05:06:14 -0700 (PDT) Thank you Janos, I enjoyed the photos very much. That 'Violet Queen' is beautiful, and I loved the bee! Susan East Tennessee zone 6 From lmf@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Thu Mar 17 11:04:11 2011 Message-Id: <000d01cbe4b4$91f0ba70$b5d22f50$@ab.ca> From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 09:04:09 -0600 Thank you for the pics, it is wonderful to see that spring is happening somewhere on the planet. The snow if falling thick and heavy here in Red Deer, Alberta and it looks as though spring will never arrive. Linda Foulis Red Deer, AB Canada Zone 3 From hansennursery@coosnet.com Thu Mar 17 13:42:59 2011 Message-Id: <1300383776.374112926@192.168.4.58> From: hansennursery@coosnet.com Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 13:42:56 -0400 (EDT) The flowers are gorgeous but I love your bee photo!!! Robin Hansen Tsunami Zone North Bend, Oregon USA Zone 9 -----Original Message----- From: "Linda Foulis" Sent: Thursday, March 17, 2011 11:04am To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Subject: Re: [pbs] spring in Hungary Thank you for the pics, it is wonderful to see that spring is happening somewhere on the planet. The snow if falling thick and heavy here in Red Deer, Alberta and it looks as though spring will never arrive. Linda Foulis Red Deer, AB Canada Zone 3 From fsthorne@hawaii.rr.com Thu Mar 17 13:53:13 2011 Message-Id: From: "Fred Thorne" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Thu, 17 Mar 2011 07:53:21 -1000 Thank you for sharing…here in Hawai’i I am unable to grow these reliably. So these so called common bulbs are special to me. Best regards, Fred Thorne, in the rain forest of the Big Island _____ From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of J. Agoston Sent: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 8:19 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] spring in Hungary Dear All, I hope you don't mind sharing some pictures from the common bulbs I have. https://picasaweb.google.com/agoston.janos123/2011Spr# Regards, Janos -- Protect the environment! Please think twice before printing this e-mail. || Védjük környezetünket, csak szükség esetén nyomtassa ki ezt a levelet! _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1497/3494 - Release Date: 03/09/11 Internal Virus Database is out of date. From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Fri Mar 18 02:55:38 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 07:55:37 +0100 Thank you all! I'm also very happy, we had a long winter here, and now I feel the urge to go outside and do anything in the garden. Regrds, Janos From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri Mar 18 13:05:32 2011 Message-Id: <813990.70722.qm@web84304.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 10:05:31 -0700 (PDT) Janos, which Triturus is that? --- On Fri, 3/18/11, J. Agoston wrote: From: J. Agoston Subject: Re: [pbs] spring in Hungary To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Friday, March 18, 2011, 2:55 AM Thank you all! I'm also very happy, we had a long winter here, and now I feel the urge to go outside and do anything in the garden. Regrds, Janos From dkramb@gmail.com Fri Mar 18 23:06:05 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Zephyranthes Date: Fri, 18 Mar 2011 23:06:04 -0400 Why did I do it? I was grocery shopping and the grocery store had boxes of various "bulbs" for sale, cheap. I box of mixed Zephyranthes caught my eye. So I bought it. Now why would I do such a foolish thing when I know darn good & well that I can obtain awesome selections of named Zephyranthes via PBS BX. Shakin' my head, I guess it was cabin fever! I haven't grown Zephyranthes in a few years. It was time to try again. From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Sat Mar 19 03:26:49 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: spring in Hungary Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 08:26:47 +0100 you mean the big blackish bumblebee like? 2011/3/18 Jim McKenney > Janos, which Triturus is that? > > From dkramb@gmail.com Sat Mar 19 12:44:53 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Hippeastrum parodii 'Germa' Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 12:44:51 -0400 I remembered to take a photo before the last flower faded. http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/P3190003.JPG Josh ID'd my dark stemmed Hippeastrum as 'Misty' but the pod that was forming on it aborted... so no seeds from that. I selfed Germa, and also applied Misty pollen onto Germa. I'm waiting to see if either of those make it. (You can see my paper tags on the attached photo.) I also have one offset from Germa that is growing happily in my bedroom under lights. It has a hitchhiker in the pot, too, which I think is a Chrysothemis 'Black Flamingo'. From jgglatt@gmail.com Sat Mar 19 14:00:51 2011 Message-Id: <4D84EF51.60808@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: BelleWood in Bloom Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 14:00:49 -0400 Absurdly warm weather yesterday, 71 degrees Fahrenheit and sunny to boot. Little bulbs hurling themselves out of the earth and into flower with gay abandon: masses of Eranthis hyemalis and three sparse patches of E. pinnatifida. Lots of Galanthus, including Galanthus ikariae which used to be known as G. woronowii. Mine must be a good clone as they flower quite nicely. Generous amounts of Leucojum vernum. Crocus tommasinianus which apparently avoids depredation by the deer. A few Cyclamen coum, and more Scilla mischtschenkoana (an aside - I really, really prefer the older name of S. tubergeniana - not only easier to spell it's not pronounced like a cat's sneeze) And Colchicum (=Bulbocodium) vernum also in bloom. Fritillaria imperialis are emerging but have a ways to go before flowering. The fancies of Spring, ever welcome and delightful. There are images of these bulbs on my web site: www.bellewood-gardens.com Then go to Diary, and click on BelleWood in Bloom 2011. Last Thursday I went to the rock garden at the New York Botanical Garden after teaching my class. Cyclamen coum in profuse bloom, lots of bulbous iris, small daffodils - so nice. Judy in New Jersey where today is sunny, cooler than yesterday, and snow showers predicted for next Thursday From SRS0=BQEW6J=WM=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Sat Mar 19 17:19:21 2011 Message-Id: <00dc01cbe676$f3d345f0$db79d1d0$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Damping off - Banrot Date: Sat, 19 Mar 2011 16:48:06 -0400 A week and a bit after treating my cyclamen seed pots with Banrot I'm happy to say that any damping-off that was happening was immediately arrested in its tracks. A couple of pots that were badly affected haven't lost any more seedlings since they were treated. Thanks to Mark Mazer for the advice! Next year I'll treat prophylactically. It is interesting to see that some 'strains' - the white and pink Fairy Wings in particular - and subspecies - C. graecum ssp. candicum - are perennially more prone to damping off than anything else. Best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 20 18:33:30 2011 Message-Id: <345351.40388.qm@web81505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Babiana ringens question Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:33:29 -0700 (PDT) What is that crazy structure that's coming up above the flowers on my Babiana ringens? This is my first year with a bloom and I didn't expect that. What a wild plant. John From zigur@hotmail.com Sun Mar 20 18:35:50 2011 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Babiana ringens question Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:35:47 -0700 It's a perch for pollinating birds. T > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:33:29 -0700 > From: jwickham@sbcglobal.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Babiana ringens question > > What is that crazy structure that's coming up above the flowers on my Babiana ringens? This is my first year with a bloom and I didn't expect that. What a wild plant. > > John > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 20 18:36:13 2011 Message-Id: <697332.69458.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Bulb photos Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:36:10 -0700 (PDT) I just uploaded a few photos of bulbs taken at my home, at the UC Irving Arboretum South African Bulb Garden, and in the Theodore Payne Foundation's bulb collection. I just got a camera that lets me get a decent close-up of the flowers...what a difference a good lens makes. http://www.flickr.com/photos/19684773@N06/5544034937/in/photostream/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun Mar 20 19:16:00 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Babiana ringens question Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 23:15:58 +0000 There are images in the web of sunbirds "hanging" from the stem top while reaching at the flowers with their beaks. Amazing. > From: zigur@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:35:47 -0700 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Babiana ringens question > > > It's a perch for pollinating birds. > > T > > > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:33:29 -0700 > > From: jwickham@sbcglobal.net > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Babiana ringens question > > > > What is that crazy structure that's coming up above the flowers on my Babiana ringens? This is my first year with a bloom and I didn't expect that. What a wild plant. > > > > John > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Sun Mar 20 20:30:56 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB57658876065-64C-1A642@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: My Newsletter Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 20:30:42 -0400 Hi all, I apologize if this e-mail is offensive to some, but my first "revived" newsletter is going out later this evening, and wanted to send out another invitation to be added on my e-mail list. Each newsletter includes some plant related info, and shows some of the plants I'm working with/growing, and also offers some plants/seeds to anyone who might be interested. If you want to give it a try, just send me an email and I'll be happy to add you. (If you discover that you don't want to receive further ones, just let me know.) Best, Jude From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 20 20:33:48 2011 Message-Id: <533828.36695.qm@web81507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Babiana ringens question Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 17:33:46 -0700 (PDT) Thanks. There's so much going on with plant-animal interactions, but this is a particularly amazing example. --- On Sun, 3/20/11, Alberto Castillo wrote: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Re: [pbs] Babiana ringens question To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, March 20, 2011, 4:15 PM There are images in the web of sunbirds "hanging" from the stem top while reaching at the flowers with their beaks. Amazing. > From: zigur@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:35:47 -0700 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Babiana ringens question > > > It's a perch for pollinating birds. > > T > > > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 15:33:29 -0700 > > From: jwickham@sbcglobal.net > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: [pbs] Babiana ringens question > > > > What is that crazy structure that's coming up above the flowers on my Babiana ringens? This is my first year with a bloom and I didn't expect that. What a wild plant. > > > > John > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki                           From pelarg@aol.com Sun Mar 20 20:44:16 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB57837F383FB-160-C856@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Babiana ringens question Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 20:44:07 -0400 (EDT) Hi John, That's its amazing bird perch, it's evolved a non flowering stem that allows sunbirds to pollinate the flower while keeping watch for predators. I use it as a fascinating example of evolution in my classes to show how flowers coevolve with their pollinators. A beautiful and most interesting plant. Ernie -----Original Message----- From: John Wickham To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sun, Mar 20, 2011 6:33 pm Subject: [pbs] Babiana ringens question What is that crazy structure that's coming up above the flowers on my Babiana ingens? This is my first year with a bloom and I didn't expect that. What a ild plant. John ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bluecowno1@hotmail.com Sun Mar 20 21:07:30 2011 Message-Id: From: ZHOUKAI Subject: My Newsletter Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 09:07:28 +0800 Hi! I am interested in your plants. Please send me a list. Thank you! Best Regards Kai > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org; aroid-l@www.gizmoworks.com; philodendron-group@googlegroups.com; cycad@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 20:30:42 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: [pbs] My Newsletter > > Hi all, > I apologize if this e-mail is offensive to some, but my first "revived" newsletter is going out later this evening, and wanted to send out another invitation to be added on my e-mail list. Each newsletter includes some plant related info, and shows some of the plants I'm working with/growing, and also offers some plants/seeds to anyone who might be interested. If you want to give it a try, just send me an email and I'll be happy to add you. (If you discover that you don't want to receive further ones, just let me know.) > Best, Jude > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Sun Mar 20 21:08:37 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB57B9F5C8C45-64C-1ABB4@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: My Newsletter Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 21:08:28 -0400 Hello, Feel free to email me privately with any specific requests. I am currently working on getting my inventory up and running. Best, Jude -----Original Message----- From: ZHOUKAI To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Sun, Mar 20, 2011 9:07 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] My Newsletter Hi! I am interested in your plants. Please send me a list. Thank you! Best Regards Kai > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org; aroid-l@www.gizmoworks.com; philodendron-group@googlegroups.com; cycad@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sun, 20 Mar 2011 20:30:42 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: [pbs] My Newsletter > > Hi all, > I apologize if this e-mail is offensive to some, but my first "revived" newsletter is going out later this evening, and wanted to send out another invitation to be added on my e-mail list. Each newsletter includes some plant related info, and shows some of the plants I'm working with/growing, and also offers some plants/seeds to anyone who might be interested. If you want to give it a try, just send me an email and I'll be happy to add you. (If you discover that you don't want to receive further ones, just let me know.) > Best, Jude > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 02:31:52 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: pest management was Damping off - Banrot Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 07:31:51 +0100 John, Did you used Banrot 400WP or 80G? I used copper oxychlorine weekly, i just dusted the surface with it and than watered the cuttings. I had terrible infestation of fungus gnats this year. I was able to kill them with chlorpyriphos. Do you have anything useful for gnats in the US other than Citation? Regards, Janos Z5a, Hungary From wusong@evilemail.com Mon Mar 21 07:58:07 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: pest management was Damping off - Banrot Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 07:58:01 -0400 Not cheap, but have you tried Hypoaspis or nematodes? -Dave On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 2:31 AM, J. Agoston wrote: > John, > > Did you used Banrot 400WP or 80G? I used copper oxychlorine weekly, i just > dusted the surface with it and than watered the cuttings. > > I had terrible infestation of fungus gnats this year. I was able to kill > them with chlorpyriphos. Do you have anything useful for gnats in the US > other than Citation? > > Regards, > Janos > Z5a, Hungary > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 08:26:10 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: pest management was Damping off - Banrot Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:26:09 +0100 No, and they are not available in Hungary nor Citation. From SRS0=Q4yegn=WO=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Mon Mar 21 09:51:30 2011 Message-Id: <016801cbe7ca$0c784610$2568d230$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: pest management was Damping off - Banrot Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 09:15:27 -0400 Janos, I use the wettable powder - 400WP. I've never had problems with fungus gnats but if I did I'm sure I'd use something with Imidacloprid or a related compound in it - something like Marathon. The only insects I spray against are aphids and I use the Imidacloprid for that. Best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b John, Did you used Banrot 400WP or 80G? I used copper oxychlorine weekly, i just dusted the surface with it and than watered the cuttings. I had terrible infestation of fungus gnats this year. I was able to kill them with chlorpyriphos. Do you have anything useful for gnats in the US other than Citation? From msittner@mcn.org Mon Mar 21 10:34:44 2011 Message-Id: <20110321143443.F40FD4C020@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 07:34:00 -0700 I found a product that contains BT called Knock-out Gnats and used if very successfully. It's a soil drench and you use it once a week for three weeks or until your population is under control since it kills the larvae, not the adults, so want to go through more than one life cycle. Some of us are reluctant to use heavy duty chemicals and this solved the problem for me and I haven't had to use it again. I don't know whether it is available in Hungary. Mary Sue From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 10:38:35 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB5ECBC14975E-10C4-3287F@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:38:10 -0400 For those who don't like using chemicals, like myself, I use the yellow sticky traps. They really work. Yes, you will always have a few gnats fluttering around, but that's nature. Nature was not intended to be sterile. -----Original Message----- From: Mary Sue Ittner To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 10:34 am Subject: [pbs] Fungus Gnats I found a product that contains BT called Knock-out Gnats and used if very successfully. It's a soil drench and you use it once a week for three weeks or until your population is under control since it kills the larvae, not the adults, so want to go through more than one life cycle. Some of us are reluctant to use heavy duty chemicals and this solved the problem for me and I haven't had to use it again. I don't know whether it is available in Hungary. Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Mar 21 11:28:39 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 08:43:11 -0600 Dear PBSers, It is spring here in Kansas City both chronologically and actually- bulbs and perennials are popping up, the first Magnolia (M.zenii) is in bloom and we have had some mild nights well above freezing. Crocus are popping up and appearing in waves of one species after another. Each year I plant more and each year they all intrigue me. I was recently talking with a friend (Stan) about the lack of self seeding crocus. Why aren't more crocus proliferating around the garden. We get a few seedlings of a few species, but most simply multiply in place by increasing bulb clumps. Only Tommies (C. tommasinianus) seeds about 'slightly'. Some seed gorwn Tommies from seed Exchanges have made patches of obvious seedlings (due to a range of colors and ages) in maybe 2 ft wide ( .6m) patches here and there. I want vast swathes invading the lawn and in the fence edges. Can anyone suggest species that might do this and a good source for a few hundred bulbs to infect the garden? In my harsh climate, we have a special appreciation for weeds that require little or no attention. Open to suggestions. Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From bulborum@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 11:47:37 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:45:38 +0100 Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C. heuffelianus Spring This are old Synonyms but if you have a moisture (not wet spot) they naturalise easy Roland 2011/3/21 James Waddick Crocus are popping up and appearing in waves of one species after another. Each year I plant more and each year they all intrigue me. I was recently talking with a friend (Stan) about the lack of self seeding crocus. Why aren't more crocus proliferating around the garden. > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From haweha@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 12:28:19 2011 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:23:16 +0000 Greetings from GERMANY Rational thinking VERSUS sweet wishdreams, I.O.W.: Yellow sticky traps are merely useable as an indicator for the prevalence of that pest. If you raise seedlings you are badly advised, to omit a genuine, effective pest control, and you might experience a devastating outcome even. One síngle female fungus gnat will lay more than 100 eggs, and, all the worse, apportionedly on several locations. > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:38:10 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > For those who don't like using chemicals, like myself, I use the yellow sticky traps. They really work. Yes, you will always have a few gnats fluttering around, but that's nature. Nature was not intended to be sterile. > From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 12:32:58 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB5FCAF8519A0-10C4-343C6@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:32:22 -0400 I understand the "scare tactic" of not wiping out a fungus gnat infestation with every chemical known to man. Some of us choose what is best for the environment, as well as a natural approach to growing. The Yellow traps, "indicators" or otherwise, do the job for me. I'm sure they do a great job in eliminating weak seedlings that would lead to a weak plant, just as in nature. -----Original Message----- From: Hans-Werner Hammen To: pbs pbs Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 12:23 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats Greetings from GERMANY Rational thinking VERSUS sweet wishdreams, I.O.W.: Yellow sticky traps are merely useable as an indicator for the prevalence of that pest. If you raise seedlings you are badly advised, to omit a genuine, effective pest control, and you might experience a devastating outcome even. One síngle female fungus gnat will lay more than 100 eggs, and, all the worse, apportionedly on several locations. > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:38:10 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > For those who don't like using chemicals, like myself, I use the yellow sticky traps. They really work. Yes, you will always have a few gnats fluttering around, but that's nature. Nature was not intended to be sterile. > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From haweha@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 12:48:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:43:54 +0000 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:32:22 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > I understand the "scare tactic" of not wiping out a fungus gnat infestation with every chemical known to man. Some of us choose what is best for the environment, as well as a natural approach to growing. > The Yellow traps, "indicators" or otherwise, do the job for me. > I'm sure they do a great job in eliminating weak seedlings that would lead to a weak plant, just as in nature. > With all due respect: You will fail, to provide any proof and evidence, that the maggots of fungus gnats accurately select weaker seedlings of Hippeastrums, when these are just germinating. Fact is, that these larvae consume what is next to their present location. In a fair consideration, EVERY seedling is "weak". The same applies for CUTTINGS. These are weak("er") specimens TOO, because they are, you name it, CUT, thus providing an entrance port where maggots of fungus gnats prefer to drill themselves in. Your sticky trap is TRIVIAL, and your insistence is ridiculous. The sticky trap is no scare tactics, it is a minor, negligible thinning out of the infestation From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 12:53:23 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB5FF971DD124-10C4-348B7@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:53:09 -0400 To each their own. I personally choose an environmentally friendly approach. You may think that some other practices are trivial. I am sure there are things that you do, that others may feel the same way about. This forum should be used for sharing information, not telling others they will fail, but rather, helping each other NOT fail. Best, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Hans-Werner Hammen To: pbs pbs Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 12:43 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:32:22 -0400 > From: santoury@aol.com > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > I understand the "scare tactic" of not wiping out a fungus gnat infestation with every chemical known to man. Some of us choose what is best for the environment, as well as a natural approach to growing. > The Yellow traps, "indicators" or otherwise, do the job for me. > I'm sure they do a great job in eliminating weak seedlings that would lead to a weak plant, just as in nature. > With all due respect: You will fail, to provide any proof and evidence, that the maggots of fungus gnats accurately select weaker seedlings of Hippeastrums, when these are just germinating. Fact is, that these larvae consume what is next to their present location. In a fair consideration, EVERY seedling is "weak". The same applies for CUTTINGS. These are weak("er") specimens TOO, because they are, you name it, CUT, thus providing an entrance port where maggots of fungus gnats prefer to drill themselves in. Your sticky trap is TRIVIAL, and your insistence is ridiculous. The sticky trap is no scare tactics, it is a minor, negligible thinning out of the infestation _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From joshy46013@yahoo.com Mon Mar 21 12:59:37 2011 Message-Id: <456139.98229.qm@web121705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Josh Young Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 09:59:29 -0700 (PDT) Has anyone had experience with fungus gnat larvae burrowing into bulbs?  I have never had this problem before but I have had lots of problems with fungus gnats.  I have mine under control with the help of an insectiside, nothing else has helped :-( Josh Indiana Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From rakkasanbarnett@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 13:09:03 2011 Message-Id: From: Donald Barnett Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:08:56 -0700 The simplest and easiest way to get rid of fungus gnats is to sterilise your soil. Like spraying an oxidate or H2O2 on the surface of the soil in the pot. Does no harm to plants but gnats won't lay eggs and easily fixes problem with little harm to us. On Mar 21, 2011 9:59 AM, "Josh Young" wrote: > Has anyone had experience with fungus gnat larvae burrowing into bulbs? I have never had this problem before but I have had lots of problems with fungus gnats. I have mine under control with the help of an insectiside, nothing else has helped :-( > > Josh > Indiana > > > Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 13:11:31 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB60220E6A976-10C4-34CC2@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:11:18 -0400 Thanks for sharing that tip with us ! That's the kind of info that really does help us all. Where might I locate something like this ? Hydrogen peroxide ? How often is this done? Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Donald Barnett To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 1:08 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats The simplest and easiest way to get rid of fungus gnats is to sterilise your soil. Like spraying an oxidate or H2O2 on the surface of the soil in the pot. Does no harm to plants but gnats won't lay eggs and easily fixes problem with little harm to us. On Mar 21, 2011 9:59 AM, "Josh Young" wrote: > Has anyone had experience with fungus gnat larvae burrowing into bulbs? I have never had this problem before but I have had lots of problems with fungus gnats. I have mine under control with the help of an insectiside, nothing else has helped :-( > > Josh > Indiana > > > Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pamela@polson.com Mon Mar 21 13:25:20 2011 Message-Id: <005101cbe7eb$c1645520$442cff60$@com> From: "Pamela Harlow" Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:16:44 -0700 The dispute between effective control vs environmental safety is easily solved by using the BT product. You can have it both ways! I use Gnatrol, but it sounds the same as Mary Sue's product. To clarify, BT is Bacillus thuringiensis var. israelensis. It is not a toxin, but a living pathogen with a very specific target, the larvae of fungus gnats. There may be other insect larvae that it attacks, but I am not drenching the landscape. I am hand-watering pots. I grow on a commercial scale. Yellow cards did nothing for me, but Gnatrol is very effective when used diligently. Winter wrens and song sparrows routinely sneak into the greenhouses to forage unaffected insects, with no ill effects to the birds. I have another observation about fungus gnats that I have never seen reported, perhaps because most operations use toxic chemicals. Fungus gnats are a pest of recently potted plants only. That is, even an infestation in untreated pots will gradually taper off and eventually those pots will become immune to gnats. I think this is because tiny predator species gradually colonize the soil. I think I am seeing Hypoaspis creeping around, but it could be something else doing the job. It's another argument against using toxic chemicals. One last thing: if you have fungus gnats, watch the males display for the females. They do a wing-flicking "dance" to impress potential mates, or at least this is my interpretation of their behavior. I never see the females (larger than the males) perform the display. Pamela Harlow -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 7:34 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Fungus Gnats I found a product that contains BT called Knock-out Gnats and used if very successfully. It's a soil drench and you use it once a week for three weeks or until your population is under control since it kills the larvae, not the adults, so want to go through more than one life cycle. Some of us are reluctant to use heavy duty chemicals and this solved the problem for me and I haven't had to use it again. I don't know whether it is available in Hungary. Mary Sue From rakkasanbarnett@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 13:23:01 2011 Message-Id: From: Donald Barnett Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:22:47 -0700 Hydrogen peroxide, yes. U can also use some other ones like zerotal but that may be for greenhouse operations. If u can get 3% basic hydrogen peroxide from a grocery store then use full strength, just spray with a basic spray bottle after every watering. The stronger stuff ill get back to you on I'd have to check some notes. On Mar 21, 2011 10:11 AM, wrote: > > Thanks for sharing that tip with us ! That's the kind of info that really does help us all. > Where might I locate something like this ? Hydrogen peroxide ? How often is this done? > Thanks, Jude > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Donald Barnett > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 1:08 pm > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > > The simplest and easiest way to get rid of fungus gnats is to sterilise your > > soil. Like spraying an oxidate or H2O2 on the surface of the soil in the > > pot. Does no harm to plants but gnats won't lay eggs and easily fixes > > problem with little harm to us. > > On Mar 21, 2011 9:59 AM, "Josh Young" wrote: > >> Has anyone had experience with fungus gnat larvae burrowing into bulbs? I > > have never had this problem before but I have had lots of problems with > > fungus gnats. I have mine under control with the help of an insectiside, > > nothing else has helped :-( > >> > >> Josh > >> Indiana > >> > >> > >> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 13:27:32 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB6045BE19A72-10C4-35013@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:27:16 -0400 Perfect - that's very good to know. Thanks for sharing! -----Original Message----- From: Donald Barnett To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 1:22 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats Hydrogen peroxide, yes. U can also use some other ones like zerotal but that may be for greenhouse operations. If u can get 3% basic hydrogen peroxide from a grocery store then use full strength, just spray with a basic spray bottle after every watering. The stronger stuff ill get back to you on I'd have to check some notes. On Mar 21, 2011 10:11 AM, wrote: > > Thanks for sharing that tip with us ! That's the kind of info that really does help us all. > Where might I locate something like this ? Hydrogen peroxide ? How often is this done? > Thanks, Jude > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Donald Barnett > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 1:08 pm > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats > > > The simplest and easiest way to get rid of fungus gnats is to sterilise your > > soil. Like spraying an oxidate or H2O2 on the surface of the soil in the > > pot. Does no harm to plants but gnats won't lay eggs and easily fixes > > problem with little harm to us. > > On Mar 21, 2011 9:59 AM, "Josh Young" wrote: > >> Has anyone had experience with fungus gnat larvae burrowing into bulbs? I > > have never had this problem before but I have had lots of problems with > > fungus gnats. I have mine under control with the help of an insectiside, > > nothing else has helped :-( > >> > >> Josh > >> Indiana > >> > >> > >> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From mikemace@att.net Mon Mar 21 13:30:23 2011 Message-Id: <000301cbe7ed$a703f170$f50bd450$@net> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulb photos Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:30:19 -0700 Nice photos, John! This really brought home to me the difference that latitude makes in bulb growing. You've got things in bloom that are barely even in bud for me, about 400 miles to the north. Mike San Jose, CA From wusong@evilemail.com Mon Mar 21 14:00:08 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 14:00:04 -0400 I don't know about seeds...but all you need is some squirrels. As a child, crocus would pop up anywhere and everywhere in our yard thanks to the tireless gardening efforts of the local squirrels. There are yards near my current whereabouts that are practically crocus fields right now, and I seriously doubt it to be the work of human gardeners. ;-) -Dave On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 2:32 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring >> Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C. heuffelianus Spring >> >> This are old Synonyms >> but if you have a moisture (not wet spot) >> they naturalise easy >> > > Dear Roland, > These are the same species of the Dutch Hybrids. I grow half a dozen > old cvs and none of these naturalize. > > They do make larger clumps and persist for years,but no seedlings > appear. > > Alas. Jim > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From totototo@telus.net Mon Mar 21 14:09:24 2011 Message-Id: <4D8731E1.19091.35D5AA0@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 11:09:21 -0700 On 21 Mar 2011, at 10:22, Donald Barnett wrote: > Hydrogen peroxide, yes. You can also use some other ones like zerotal but that may > be for greenhouse operations. If you can get 3% basic hydrogen peroxide from a > grocery store then use full strength, just spray with a basic spray bottle after > every watering. The stronger stuff I'll get back to you on. I'd have to check some > notes. You can buy 35% hydrogen peroxide (I get mine from a farm supply place) but unless you have experience in dealing with hazardous substances, stick with the stuff from the grocery store. In high concentrations, hydrogen peroxide is a strong oxidizer, thus something of a fire hazard. It will raise blisters almost immediately if splashed on skin. Nothing to fool around with, even if it is a lot cheaper. There's a 10% version used in hair salons, but even that is something to be cautious about. Buying the 3% grocery store stuff also has the advantage that it doesn't have to be diluted, so there's no risk of forgetting to do the dilution (or getting it wrong) and killing your plants with high concentrations of the stuff. BTW, Walmart (spit!) has 3% H2O2 at a very good price here. Check the Walmart near you - they might have it at a good price too. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From bulborum@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 14:21:08 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 19:21:06 +0100 I grow Crocus vernus ssp. vernus bought as Crocus scepusiensis I bought wild collected material from Romania and they naturalise here spontaneous The large selections are maybe hybrids and sterile they don't seed here either but my wild collected bulbs seed freely Roland 2011/3/21 James Waddick > Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring >> Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C. heuffelianus Spring >> >> -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Mar 21 13:56:16 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:32:12 -0600 >Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring >Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C. heuffelianus Spring > >This are old Synonyms >but if you have a moisture (not wet spot) >they naturalise easy Dear Roland, These are the same species of the Dutch Hybrids. I grow half a dozen old cvs and none of these naturalize. They do make larger clumps and persist for years,but no seedlings appear. Alas. Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From odysseybulbs@earthlink.net Mon Mar 21 14:47:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Russell Stafford Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 14:47:16 -0400 I, like Cathy, have had good luck with Knock-Out Gnats. It's a solution of Bacillus thuringinesis ssp. israelensis. As organic as it gets. As far as I know it's the same product as Gnatrol, which is OMRI-approved. Russell At 01:11 PM 3/21/2011, you wrote: > Thanks for sharing that tip with us ! That's the kind of info that > really does help us all. >Where might I locate something like this ? Hydrogen peroxide ? How >often is this done? >Thanks, Jude Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Mon Mar 21 15:19:39 2011 Message-Id: <009201cbe7fa$21dbe310$2301a8c0@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:59:40 -0000 I think the problem with Jim Waddick's crocuses not spreading by seed is that most cultivars offered by the Dutch bulb merchants and their agents are sterile clones that never set seed. It's very frustrating when one plants them and hopes for them to spread freely, but they don't! When I came to Colesbourne in 2003 we planted a few thousand corms of C. tommasinianus cultivars, with the hope that they'd form the source of a free-sowing population - but they're all still exactly where they were planted (except where moles have pushed them about a bit). Very disappointing. Now I am diligent in collecting seed from the original plantings of C. tommasinianus here, and strewing it out in the areas where I'd like to see sheets of colour. A conspicuous exception is 'Yalta', a lovely selection by Janis Rukans that appears to be a hybrid betweem C. vernus and C. tommasinianus but produces seed freely (though I haven't seen what its seedlings look like yet). Otherwise, as Roland mentions, you need to obtain a stock of wild-origin or at least wild-type plants, and raise them from seed. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon Mar 21 15:19:24 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 12:19:21 -0700 We are accustomed to seeing seedlings at a little distance from the parent (or a long distance if ants are involved). I wonder if crocus seedlings are not being recognized because the seedpods are formed underground and some of them remain underground. The seedlings then would be grouped right around the parent corm and would look like vegetative increase. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8, cool Mediterranean climate mild rainy winters, mild dry summers From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 16:02:06 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 20:02:04 +0000 Fungus gnats normally appear in peat based mixes. Why not to try a larger portion of mineral origin ingredients? They would never appear in them. From tulaandniles@orcon.net.nz Mon Mar 21 16:07:19 2011 Message-Id: <209D82CD-5095-4C32-AC07-D72F187D8945@orcon.net.nz> From: Laurence Rueter Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 09:07:14 +1300 Hi-- Greetings from New Zealand. A few bulbs coming out here now, late in this exceptionally long and warm season here.... I am very concerned about fungus gnats because I am raising around 2000 seedlings of various Hosta. I have heard from friends in the US that there is a very effective predatory nematode available there I think it is Steinernema sp. Also in New Zealand we have someone here selling a predatory mite called Hypoaspis aculeifer. These and the Bti are especially interesting to me because I want to keep low my usage of poisonous insecticides. We do have the Steinema feltiae present in NZ, but no one seems to be growing it commercially. I have only used the Bti from mosquito dunks, and seem to have mderate success, as there has been very little attrition in my seedlings. I also let my mix dry out very on the surface between waterings, and water from the bottom of the pots. There are still fungus gnats present, though. Another possible solution I have heard of is called NilNat. Which is some kind of small particle the gnat larvae will ingest when incorporated into the soil mix by watering. I ruptures their digestive tract. One poisonous insecticide I have considered is called Dimilin, which is a growth regulator and though I have read of it's use on manure piles for fly maggots, it apparently can work on fungus gnat larvae, according to some growers of cycads here in New Zealand. Hope this info can be encouraging for anyone faced with the opportunity that fungus gnats provide.... in teaching us about some of the life in our soil mix. All the best, Larry Rueter, Nelson, New Zealand From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 16:09:59 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:09:58 -0700 Hi everyone, I have never had any encounters where plants are negatively affected by fungus gnats. From what I understand, they are detritus feeders and don't go after live plants. I find that on the contrary, their appearance it indicates that you have a good and balanced ecosystem in your garden. I don't mind them at all. But I also grow carnivorous plants and fungus gnats are just food for them. They catch a fair number of these insects. Nhu -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/ On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 1:02 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Fungus gnats normally appear in peat based mixes. Why not to try a larger > portion of mineral origin ingredients? They would never appear in them. > _______________________________________________ > From dkramb@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 16:11:43 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:11:41 -0400 Lately I am baking new potting mix at 205 deg F for 60 minutes, before using it. I figure this is killing the incoming eggs. Yellow sticky traps have dramatically reduced the gnats, but I still see some every day. And I think they are infesting my Hippeastrum roseum bulbs, as Josh mentioned. They are most annoying!!!! I will try the hydrogen peroxide treatment. Also now that my Pinguiculas are coming out of hibernation, they will miraculously eliminate the remaining infestation. Fungus gnats are only troublesome during winter in my house! Is there a year-round Pinguicula??? I don't think so. Dennis in Cincinnati From joshy46013@yahoo.com Mon Mar 21 16:16:36 2011 Message-Id: <861378.36185.qm@web121720.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Josh Young Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:16:31 -0700 (PDT) Nhu, I thought the gnats only fed on dead material but was corrected incorrectly by someone saying they eat live tissue of many bulbous plants which I have never noticed.... Thanks for the clarification Josh Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From Santoury@aol.com Mon Mar 21 16:19:25 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB61C5EDFB78E-1B3C-3910D@webmail-m138.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:19:10 -0400 Does anyone have some Pingiculas or other easy-care carnivorous plant to swap? I could use some to put amongst my seeding cups. -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Kramb To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Mon, Mar 21, 2011 4:11 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats Lately I am baking new potting mix at 205 deg F for 60 minutes, before using it. I figure this is killing the incoming eggs. Yellow sticky traps have dramatically reduced the gnats, but I still see some every day. And I think they are infesting my Hippeastrum roseum bulbs, as Josh mentioned. They are most annoying!!!! I will try the hydrogen peroxide treatment. Also now that my Pinguiculas are coming out of hibernation, they will miraculously eliminate the remaining infestation. Fungus gnats are only troublesome during winter in my house! Is there a year-round Pinguicula??? I don't think so. Dennis in Cincinnati _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From totototo@telus.net Mon Mar 21 17:05:36 2011 Message-Id: <4D87507D.20989.3D4EA4B@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:19:57 -0700 On 21 Mar 2011, at 18:59, John Grimshaw wrote: > A conspicuous exception is 'Yalta', a lovely selection by Janis Ruksans that > appears to be a hybrid betweem C. vernus and C. tommasinianus but produces seed > freely (though I haven't seen what its seedlings look like yet). A reminder two other hybrids of C. vernus and C. tommasinianus are in cultivation, 'Haarlem Gem' and 'Vanguard'. I grow all three of these, Yalta being new this year. IMHO Vanguard is simply too big, too blowzy, but both Yalta and Haarlem Gem are excellent in the garden. AFAIK, neither Haarlem Gem nor Vanguard sets seed. On 21 Mar 2011, at 12:32, James Waddick wrote: > >Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring > >Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C. heuffelianus Spring > > These are the same species of the Dutch Hybrids. I grow half > a dozen old cvs and none of these naturalize. > > They do make larger clumps and persist for years,but no > seedlings appear. Alas. One of the parks here, Summit Park http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=48.446187,- 123.354117&spn=0.002473,0.004817&z=18 has clearly naturalized Crocus vernus in a grassy area. This park is at the summit of a hill (well, duh!), and the grassy area appears to get no artificial water in summer. I suspect the original planting is very old. Of course, Victoria's Mediterranean climate with its dry summers is ideal for crocuses. C. speciosus and C. kotschyanus are naturalized at another site, the latter a far cry with its showy flowers from the miserable virused stock sent out from Holland. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From SRS0=Q4yegn=WO=johnlonsdale.net=john@eigbox.net Mon Mar 21 17:35:08 2011 Message-Id: <01c501cbe80b$1212d720$36388560$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 17:00:54 -0400 I love the concept that because Bacillus thuringiensis is 'organic' it is somehow wholesome, environmentally friendly and thoroughly OK. Kind of like 'natural remedies' for human diseases somehow not being 'drugs' - when the active principles are really chemicals and drugs just like any that the FDA approves. Bacillus thuringiensis has a broad host range and produces very potent toxins which kill all sorts of insects, beneficial and otherwise. It has many effects on the environment - just a bit different to using 'chemicals'. Best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Monday, March 21, 2011 4:02 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus Gnats Fungus gnats normally appear in peat based mixes. Why not to try a larger portion of mineral origin ingredients? They would never appear in them. From bulborum@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 17:32:47 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 22:32:45 +0100 2011/3/21 > On 21 Mar 2011, at 18:59, John Grimshaw wrote: > > > Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis Spring > Jim I can collect seeds for you from my Crocus vernus ssp. vernus syn. C scepusiensis or if you prefer some bulbs Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 17:56:14 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 21:56:12 +0000 It's larvae that feed on tender roots of seedlings. Insectivorous plants would be useful if they eat the adults before they lay eggs. From plantsman@comcast.net Mon Mar 21 18:26:47 2011 Message-Id: <20110321222643.6503C4C056@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 15:26:32 -0700 Without a doubt, fungus gnats are very destructive greenhouse pests. I have seen the carnage myself across countless species. Much time and effort is spent on their control. Not all Bt is the same. Bt products like Gnatrol that specifically target fungas gnats and other closely related insect species have been available since at least the 1980's. I believe that other strains of Bt have since been isolated that target other insect groups. Also, "both larvae and adults can spread plant pathogens and may promote disease in commercial crops." From: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7448.html Nathan From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Mar 21 19:13:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 16:10:53 -0700 I have obtained seedlings from Crocus vernus 'Michael's Purple'. It is about the same size as the typical species. Perhaps the big Dutch crocuses are polyploids and that's why they don't set seed? In my climatic region (Pacific Northwest), I find that fall-blooming crocuses are more likely to self-sow than spring-blooming ones. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon At 01:19 PM 3/21/2011, you wrote: >On 21 Mar 2011, at 18:59, John Grimshaw wrote: > > > A conspicuous exception is 'Yalta', a lovely selection by Janis > Ruksans that > > appears to be a hybrid betweem C. vernus and C. tommasinianus but > produces seed > > freely (though I haven't seen what its seedlings look like yet). > >A reminder two other hybrids of C. vernus and C. tommasinianus are in >cultivation, 'Haarlem Gem' and 'Vanguard'. From odysseybulbs@earthlink.net Mon Mar 21 20:08:29 2011 Message-Id: From: Russell Stafford Subject: Year-round pinguiculas Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 20:08:13 -0400 There reputedly are such, Dennis, although I can't speak from personal experience. P. emarginata is one. http://www.pinguicula.org/pages/plantes/pinguicula_emarginata.htm Russelli Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 20:52:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Year-round pinguiculas Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 17:52:35 -0700 The Pinguicula sp native to the Southeast US can definitely be year-round growers. Steady cold/freezing temps in winter will push them towards the small dormant rosettes similar to Mexican sp but they will happily grow all winter long in milder years and during warm spells in colder years. I've seen blooms on plants with full-sized leaves during a mild winter. My experience is with plants on the Gulf Coast in Alabama and Florida. -| Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 20:08:13 -0400 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: odysseybulbs@earthlink.net > Subject: [pbs] Year-round pinguiculas > > There reputedly are such, Dennis, although I can't speak from > personal experience. P. emarginata is one. > > http://www.pinguicula.org/pages/plantes/pinguicula_emarginata.htm > > Russelli > > Russell Stafford > Odyssey Bulbs > PO Box 382 > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > 508-335-8106 > www.odysseybulbs.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From powell2@sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 21 21:29:30 2011 Message-Id: <8B8D1E5B-1B65-48B2-99F9-9D5FE497AE33@sbcglobal.net> From: "Charles Powell, II" Subject: Pinguicula Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:29:27 -0700 You'd do much better get one of the larger species or hybrid - Ping. x weser would be an excellent choice. It very easy to grow, divides into many plants over the coarse of a year and eats a fair number of small bugs. Still it won't get rid of everything. Best, Chuck On Mar 21, 2011, at 5:08 PM, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 20:08:13 -0400 > From: Russell Stafford > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Year-round pinguiculas > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > There reputedly are such, Dennis, although I can't speak from > personal experience. P. emarginata is one. > > http://www.pinguicula.org/pages/plantes/pinguicula_emarginata.htm > > Russelli > > Russell Stafford > Odyssey Bulbs > PO Box 382 > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > 508-335-8106 > www.odysseybulbs.com > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 98, Issue 31 > *********************************** From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon Mar 21 21:34:01 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Pinguicula Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:33:56 -0700 Pings will certainly catch many a fungus gnat - I've seen leaves covered in trapped gnats on pings I've kept in terrariums. Keeping pings to control fungus gnats is a bit of a conundrum however: The moisture necessary to keep a ping happy will mean its growing medium itself will be an additional source of fungus gnats. -| From: powell2@sbcglobal.net > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:29:27 -0700 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Pinguicula > > You'd do much better get one of the larger species or hybrid - Ping. x weser would be an excellent choice. It very easy to grow, divides into many plants over the coarse of a year and eats a fair number of small bugs. Still it won't get rid of everything. > > Best, > > Chuck > > On Mar 21, 2011, at 5:08 PM, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 12 > > Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 20:08:13 -0400 > > From: Russell Stafford > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Subject: [pbs] Year-round pinguiculas > > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > > > There reputedly are such, Dennis, although I can't speak from > > personal experience. P. emarginata is one. > > > > http://www.pinguicula.org/pages/plantes/pinguicula_emarginata.htm > > > > Russelli > > > > Russell Stafford > > Odyssey Bulbs > > PO Box 382 > > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > > 508-335-8106 > > www.odysseybulbs.com > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 98, Issue 31 > > *********************************** > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ksayce@willapabay.org Mon Mar 21 22:06:02 2011 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 19:05:59 -0700 I can't speak to which crocus species to plant to naturalize easily, but as many of them ripen seeds in pods at or below ground level, crocus dispersal is going to go more slowly than in a species with explosive pods. Impatiens comes to mind for the latter. Ants might help with dispersal, but most gardens do not have healthy ant hills. Digging a few up in a patch that is crowded, and planting them where you want your great gorgeous swathes of flowers will help hasten the process. You could also look for seed and scatter it around, as an ant would do. Much easier to do with plants in pots than in the ground, but possible. Kathleen From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Mon Mar 21 23:09:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Kiyel Boland Subject: Pings, Natures Gnat killer. Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:09:05 +1300 Hi all, i use pings as a gnat killer. The best one i find is Ping x weser. as Kip said its the easest to grow and propargate. heres a link to some of the pings i grow.I just place a few "wesers" around in my seedling house and it helps to keep them under control. I also use yellow sticky paper as well. http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/carnivorous-plants/pings/ Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz www.savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ From dkramb@gmail.com Mon Mar 21 23:36:55 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Pings, Natures Gnat killer. Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 23:36:54 -0400 I know these Pings are sooooo off-topic, but they are probably my favorite plant ever. Kiyel's photos had me drooling!!!! Thanks for the wonderful OT discussion on these plants, everybody! Dennis in Cincy From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Mar 21 22:37:11 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: "Weedy" Crocus - sources Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 21:36:55 -0600 >Otherwise, as Roland mentions, you need to obtain a stock of >wild-origin or at least wild-type plants, and raise them from seed. Well this all makes sense, but just where do you get seed of wild collected fertile Crocus vernus? OR... where do you get bulbs of wild fertile C. vernus? The BX is calling. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Tue Mar 22 01:01:10 2011 Message-Id: From: Kiyel Boland Subject: Pings, Natures Gnat killer. Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 18:01:04 +1300 Sorry for being OT but after Oxalis these are my second love. :) Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz www.savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ On 22/03/2011, at 4:36 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > I know these Pings are sooooo off-topic, but they are probably my favorite > plant ever. Kiyel's photos had me drooling!!!! > > Thanks for the wonderful OT discussion on these plants, everybody! > > Dennis in Cincy > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bulborum@gmail.com Tue Mar 22 02:54:26 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: "Weedy" Crocus - sources Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 07:54:25 +0100 > > OR... where do you get bulbs of wild fertile C. vernus? The BX is > calling. Best Jim > I have seeds later in the year but I am not a member how can I donate seeds Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Tue Mar 22 02:58:44 2011 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 07:58:43 +0100 Thank you for the valuable info Larry! From arnold140@verizon.net Tue Mar 22 07:50:32 2011 Message-Id: <1041187574.800402.1300794620506.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: "Weedy" Crocus - sources Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 06:50:20 -0500 (CDT) Roland: Mail seeds to Dell @ Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Arnold From phb@redhall.org.uk Tue Mar 22 10:41:36 2011 Message-Id: <000d01cbe89d$e3c79b10$0300a8c0@phb2> From: "Philip Bolt" Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 14:31:52 -0000 I've noticed comments on your site stating that the genus Cardiocrinum isn't monocarpic, leading to a number of esoteric discussions and digressions as to the meaning of the term. Firstly, with one possible exception, all authorities state that the genus is monocarpic. This, in the UK, includes the Royal Botanic Garden at Kew and the Royal Horticultural Society which is good enough for most of us: not because they are British but because they are organisations with a world-wide botanic authority. It is not relevant that Cardiocrinum, (or Agave or any other plant), set offsets before dying: this is no more relevant than the plant setting seed. Neither offsets nor seeds are part of the plant; they were previously produced by the plant as separate entities which may or may not be genetically identical to the parent plant. Nor is it true, as some have stated, that the basal plate of a Cardiocrinum survives after flowering: remove all the offsets and what is left will not grow again. Another argument was that the flowering stem of other lilies dies at the end of the year. It certainly does, but the bulb doesn't. 'Monocarpic' simply means that the plant flowers and then dies. I mentioned a possible exception. There is a report from a reliable source that Cardiocrinum cordatum can survive after flowering. This is under investigation and anyone interested in this, (or any other aspect of the Genus), can look at the Cardiocrinum section of my website http://www.redhaugh.plus.com/GardenOpening/cardio.htm Philip Bolt UK Plant Heritage®, Cardiocrinum National Collection holder. From Santoury@aol.com Tue Mar 22 10:44:59 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB6B6C433D310-117C-44DB6@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 10:44:27 -0400 Very interesting, thank you for sharing! Would love to try some one day! Jude -----Original Message----- From: Philip Bolt To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Tue, Mar 22, 2011 10:31 am Subject: [pbs] Cardiocrinum I've noticed comments on your site stating that the genus Cardiocrinum isn't monocarpic, leading to a number of esoteric discussions and digressions as to the meaning of the term. Firstly, with one possible exception, all authorities state that the genus is monocarpic. This, in the UK, includes the Royal Botanic Garden at Kew and the Royal Horticultural Society which is good enough for most of us: not because they are British but because they are organisations with a world-wide botanic authority. It is not relevant that Cardiocrinum, (or Agave or any other plant), set offsets before dying: this is no more relevant than the plant setting seed. Neither offsets nor seeds are part of the plant; they were previously produced by the plant as separate entities which may or may not be genetically identical to the parent plant. Nor is it true, as some have stated, that the basal plate of a Cardiocrinum survives after flowering: remove all the offsets and what is left will not grow again. Another argument was that the flowering stem of other lilies dies at the end of the year. It certainly does, but the bulb doesn't. 'Monocarpic' simply means that the plant flowers and then dies. I mentioned a possible exception. There is a report from a reliable source that Cardiocrinum cordatum can survive after flowering. This is under investigation and anyone interested in this, (or any other aspect of the Genus), can look at the Cardiocrinum section of my website http://www.redhaugh.plus.com/GardenOpening/cardio.htm Philip Bolt UK Plant Heritage®, Cardiocrinum National Collection holder. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From PJOSPUX@aol.com Tue Mar 22 10:54:50 2011 Message-Id: From: PJOSPUX@aol.com Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 10:54:40 EDT What a very helpful dissertation. I have tried for several years to grow these from seeds as one gets handfuls of them from just one scape, using all the usual techniques and have yet to have a single one germinate. Your web page gives me more hope for the coming season. Many thanks Paul. Kent, UK From phb@redhall.org.uk Tue Mar 22 11:14:54 2011 Message-Id: <001301cbe8a3$e1232040$0300a8c0@phb2> From: "Philip Bolt" Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 15:14:45 -0000 Paul Thanks for the mail. WRT Cardiocrinum from seed, I'm in contact with someone in Sweden who has no difficulty in getting seeds to germinate. He has winter temperatures of -25C and I'm considering putting seed into a freezer for a few weeks rather than using a 'fridge for stratification. However, can't do that until Autumn. I'm gald you found the site of some interest. Philip Bolt ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 2:54 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum > What a very helpful dissertation. I have tried for several years to grow > these from seeds as one gets handfuls of them from just one scape, using > all > the usual techniques and have yet to have a single one germinate. > > Your web page gives me more hope for the coming season. Many thanks > > Paul. > Kent, UK > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Mar 22 11:20:48 2011 Message-Id: <053B1EB7-58A6-4B71-A08C-20823E681ECD@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 08:20:45 -0700 Wow, a Cardiocrinum expert! My question: Do you know of any species, or subspecies of Cardiocrinum that you think might grow/survive in warmer climates (such as in Southern California where I live) for more than one growing season? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 22, 2011, at 7:31 AM, Philip Bolt wrote: > > Philip Bolt > > UK Plant Heritage®, Cardiocrinum National Collection holder. > _______________________________________________ From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue Mar 22 11:42:02 2011 Message-Id: <568315.93426.qm@web84306.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 08:42:00 -0700 (PDT) Philip, I'm largely if not entirely responsible for the assertion that Cardiocrinum are not monocarpic. And I stick to that point of view.   Your statement " Neither offsets nor seeds are part of the plant; they were previously produced by the plant as separate entities which may or may not be genetically identical to the parent plant " is simply not true with respect to offsets.   Seeds are typically (although not always)  the result of sexual reproduction.Offsets are the result of vegetative reproduction. There is nothing "separate" about them until they become separated (by causes natural or unnatural) from the original plant mass.  What eventually becomes an offset is initially a part of the "original plant". In the case of Cardiocrinum (and in fact all bulbs that I know), the sprout on the basal plate which produces a flowering stem dies after flowering. Other sprouts on the same basal plate however live on and keep the plant alive.   This discussion is complicated by the ambiguous way we use the word "plant" in everyday discussions. To the commercial  grower who raises millions of marketable entities from one original plant, each one of those marketable entities is a plant, a potential sale. In discussions of the sort we are having about Cardiocrinum, the         You wrote:"Nor is it true, as some have stated, that the basal plate of a Cardiocrinum survives after  flowering: remove all the offsets and what is left will not grow again."   What you don't seem to realize is that the basal plate of the offsets is an outgrowth of the basal plate of the flowering sprout. Initially they form a single mass; ultimately they become separate because the older parts which supported the blooming sprout die (as does the blooming sprout itself). In other words, the offsets contain the surviving parts of the "original" basal plate.   You might find this easier to understand if you think of the basal plate of bulbs as their perennial stem, a stem which is constantly growing and branching as the older parts die off and disappear.   I'm not aware of any bulb species which are truly monocarpic, although it does happen that individual bulbs do die after flowering. The term really makes no sense when used in describing the growth cycle of bulbs.   An aside: I noticed a pot of germinating Cardiocrinum giganteum yunnanense seed in the cold frames yesterday.   Jim McKenney From phb@redhall.org.uk Tue Mar 22 13:09:38 2011 Message-Id: <000e01cbe8b3$ea448460$0300a8c0@phb2> From: "Philip Bolt" Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 17:09:32 -0000 Lee Thanks for the mail. I refuse to classify myself as an expert: I've got a lot to learn! WRT your question, leaving aside the views of Jim McKenny, no Cardiocrinum will survive after flowering or are you having difficulty in growing them to the flowering stage? If the later then I'm afraid I can't be of much help. What is your altitude, rainfall and winter minimum temperature? Google tells me Zone 10a is 35 - 30F min. This shouldn't be a problem: it's most probably max. temp. and water. Cardiocrinum are Himalayan plants of woodland shade and so they don't like sun and would not be happy getting too dry, ('though they also rot if too wet!). I don't think there is any particular type which would fare better than any other: keep them shaded and as cool as possible. Philip Bolt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:20 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum Wow, a Cardiocrinum expert! My question: Do you know of any species, or subspecies of Cardiocrinum that you think might grow/survive in warmer climates (such as in Southern California where I live) for more than one growing season? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 22, 2011, at 7:31 AM, Philip Bolt wrote: > > Philip Bolt > > UK Plant Heritage®, Cardiocrinum National Collection holder. > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue Mar 22 13:36:00 2011 Message-Id: <565302.51064.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 10:35:56 -0700 (PDT) WOW!  I've been wanting to try growing these for years ... here in San Diego.  Maybe I will try them on my fairly shady, North-facing hillside.  Besides additional summer water ... I suspect these would prefer a more acid soil than what is the norm here in SOCAL ... can anybody confirm?  Should I be saving all the neighborhood's dropped pine needles for additional soil treatment?  Should I be acidifying our crappy alkaline water as well?  How do they tolerate clay soils?   Thanks for all the info so far!   Ken Blackford, coastal San Diego, CA. USDA zone 10-11 generally cool (65-75F) dry (no rain) summers but with higher humidity here at the coast (avg 60-80%) and short, cooler (45-65F) somewhat more moist winters ... we average about 9" spread from December through March  ... although this winter ... probably close to 20" so far. --- On Tue, 3/22/11, Philip Bolt wrote: From: Philip Bolt Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum   What is your altitude, rainfall  and winter minimum temperature? Google tells me Zone 10a is 35 - 30F min. This shouldn't be a problem: it's most probably max. temp. and water. Cardiocrinum are Himalayan plants of woodland shade and so they don't like sun and would not be happy getting too dry, ('though they also rot if too wet!). I don't think there is any particular type which would fare better than any other: keep them shaded and as cool as possible. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue Mar 22 13:56:54 2011 Message-Id: <701062.71016.qm@web84306.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 10:56:52 -0700 (PDT) Sorry about the gap in my email message - there was an interruption here and I didn't notice that a big chunk was missing. I was going to re-post, but instead I'll keep an eye on the direction of this thread and fill in as is appropriate.   The basic thought I was trying to develop was that a person's concept of what "plant" means will influence, maybe determine, the understanding they have of what monocarpic means. In my point of view, a clone made up of multiple entities is still only one plant.   Philip, I took a look at your website. I'm willing to bet that the plant you have illustrated as Cardiocrinum cathayanum is in fact C. giganteum yunnanense.   I have never seen C. cathayanum, and I wonder if it is really in cultivation in European or North American collections. In any case, it's easily distinguished from C. giganteum and its forms. The large leaves of C. cordatum and C. cathyanum are grouped in a false whorl about a foot above the ground. The large leaves of C. giganteum and its forms are spread all along the flowering stem, graduated in size from large at the bottom to small at the top.   If someone out there thinks they have the true C. cathayanum, please speak up!     And how did I germinate the Cardiocrinum seeds? In this case, they were planted in a cold frame exposed to all weather in the fall of 2009. No germination was seen in 2010. But the seeds are germinating freely now. Philip, you might be interested to know that the seed was exposed to temperatures down to -16 C during the winter of 2009 and down to -11 C during the winter of 2010. This lot of seed was harvested in 2009 from a locally grown plant.   Jim McKenney        From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue Mar 22 14:36:10 2011 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 11:36:07 -0700 Two lots of seeds sown when received from the RHS-Lily Group in February 2010 germinated in February 2011. They went through all the seasonal temperatures here except they were sheltered from any freezing in an unheated greenhouse, so the temperature range they experienced was about 3 to 25 C. They were from bulbs received from Chen Yi by two people in England. One had been labelled cathayanum but the donor did not consider that correct. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada maritime zone 8, cool Mediterranean climate mild rainy winters, mild dry summers From loujost@yahoo.com Tue Mar 22 14:53:33 2011 Message-Id: <455556.98543.qm@web120506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: lou jost Subject: Monocarpic plans Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 11:53:32 -0700 (PDT) If the term "monocarpic" is to be useful, I would think it needs a more technical definition, or it needs to be qualified by modifiers. It would most useful, I think, to save this word for the unambiguous cases, in which the plant as a genetic entity dies shortly after flowering. Offshoots are genetically the same individual as the original plant, and are connected to the original plant through its own living tissue, at least initially, so Cardiocrinum could not be monocarpic in this strict sense. Most species of bromeliads also flower and then slowly die, and produce offshoots as they die, or perhaps a bit before they die. Are these bromeliads monocarpic? And if so, then what about sympodial orchds like Cattleyas? The flowering growth dies after flowering, though it can take many years; meanwhile it sprouts one or more new growths. Are these orchids monocarpic? Nobody I know would say that. So it seems to me if you don't want to slide down the slippery slope of ambiguity that leaves the word virtually meaningless, it would be best to use a stricter definition. Lou From Tony@plantdelights.com Tue Mar 22 14:53:47 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 14:53:40 -0400 All: I had to comment on cardiocrinum since I assumed for years that they would not survive in our hot humid summer. As it turns out the problem was the dead plants we kept receiving from Holland via India. From seed, they have performed beautifully since 2006, (C. cordataum, C. catheyanum, and more recently C. giganteum) growing under mature trees in an extremely dry location with a couple of hours of full sun late in the day. We moved some last spring into other parts of the garden and all have done beautifully...this is after a brutal summer where we set temperature records of over 95 days over 90 degrees F. If you obtain good quality plants, I have found reports of their demise due to weather to be greatly exaggerated. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Philip Bolt Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 1:10 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum Lee Thanks for the mail. I refuse to classify myself as an expert: I've got a lot to learn! WRT your question, leaving aside the views of Jim McKenny, no Cardiocrinum will survive after flowering or are you having difficulty in growing them to the flowering stage? If the later then I'm afraid I can't be of much help. What is your altitude, rainfall and winter minimum temperature? Google tells me Zone 10a is 35 - 30F min. This shouldn't be a problem: it's most probably max. temp. and water. Cardiocrinum are Himalayan plants of woodland shade and so they don't like sun and would not be happy getting too dry, ('though they also rot if too wet!). I don't think there is any particular type which would fare better than any other: keep them shaded and as cool as possible. Philip Bolt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:20 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum Wow, a Cardiocrinum expert! My question: Do you know of any species, or subspecies of Cardiocrinum that you think might grow/survive in warmer climates (such as in Southern California where I live) for more than one growing season? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 22, 2011, at 7:31 AM, Philip Bolt wrote: > > Philip Bolt > > UK Plant Heritage(r), Cardiocrinum National Collection holder. > _______________________________________________ From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue Mar 22 15:27:14 2011 Message-Id: <613331.76742.qm@web84303.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 12:27:12 -0700 (PDT) Tony, are you sure the plants you have as Cardiocrinum cathayanum are true to name? Do you have an image posted somewhere that we can see?   Also, my limited experience with these plants suggests that Cardiocrinum g. giganteum is a difficult plant under our conditions (not too different from North Carolina conditions) but C. giganteum yunnanense is a reliable garden plant under our conditions.   Jim McKenney   From jmsjon664@aol.com Tue Mar 22 16:30:19 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB6E71295E59F-CD4-56A55@Webmail-d107.sysops.aol.com> From: jmsjon664@aol.com Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:30:09 -0400 (EDT) I've been growing Cardiocrinum cordatum since 1985 and no, not the same plant but obligingly provided self-sown seedlings. The original plants took 7 years to bloom from seed; subsequent ones show up (the young leaves are gorgeous) where they will, perk away at their own pace, and eventually bloom. 'Where they will' is often shady, which seems to be okay. Monocarpic-wise, I had one reappear last year. It had been quite particularly vigorous; too much for its location so I moved it, and that was that. Jim Jones Lexington, MA From Tony@plantdelights.com Tue Mar 22 16:41:11 2011 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 16:41:04 -0400 Jim: We haven't flowered the C. catheyanum yet, but here is an image of the foliage. Seed are from Chanticleer Gardens in PA. http://gallery.plantdelights.com/Misc/Copy_of_Cardiocrinum_catheyanum I'm uncertain which C. giganteum we grow. Regarding the monocarpic discussion, it seems we just don't have enough terms...or the plants just don't cooperate with our artificial categories. We have plants like agaves, where some species flower and die completely, while other species offset freely. Yet other (offsetting and non-offsetting) agave species form vegetative bulbils on the old flower stalk. So, which are true monocarps? When botanizing in California a few years ago, I was surprised to see offsetting forms of Yucca whipplei, a plant I only knew as a non-offsetting monocarp. Yucca filamentosa is often called monocarpic because each rosette dies after flowering, but like bromeliads, the rhizome produces new shoots. Of course, the form of Yucca filamentosa that grows along the SC/GA line never offsets from the rhizomes, and therefore dies after flowering. Hedychium and musa stalks each produce only one inflorescence then die, but they offset and new stalks can flower the same season. Ensete, however, never offset. It sounds like we need new terms to distinguishes between the time between the main stalk flowers and the subsequent flowering of the clonal offsets. Perhaps monocarps should apply only to plants which must be reproduced from seed after flowering compared to vegetative monocarps, which are the plants which reproduce from offsets after flowering. These could be further split into annual or seasonal monocarps (flower annually) and multi-seasonal monocarps (requiring more than one season to re-flower from offsets) One thing for sure..."grey area" discussions like this must drive bipolar people nuts. Thanks. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:27 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Cardiocrinum Tony, are you sure the plants you have as Cardiocrinum cathayanum are true to name? Do you have an image posted somewhere that we can see? Also, my limited experience with these plants suggests that Cardiocrinum g. giganteum is a difficult plant under our conditions (not too different from North Carolina conditions) but C. giganteum yunnanense is a reliable garden plant under our conditions. Jim McKenney From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue Mar 22 18:12:58 2011 Message-Id: <630732.31334.qm@web84308.mail.re1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 15:09:10 -0700 (PDT) Thanks, Tony.   The foliage tells me nothing; let's take another look when they show signs of blooming.   For Jim Jones: Jim, my oldest Cardiocrinum cordatum is now about eleven years old. It bloomed in 2000, 2004 and 2008.   Jim McKenney From antennaria@charter.net Tue Mar 22 18:48:44 2011 Message-Id: <722267444.1214671.1300834124040.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> From: Mark McDonough Subject: "Weedy" Crocus Date: Tue, 22 Mar 2011 18:48:44 -0400 (EDT) I'm having quite good luck "naturalizing" crocus with a little bit of seed-assistance. Most years, a large bounty of seed is produced on the beautiful C. angustifolius (golden yellow, brown-striped on the outside), the capsules produces on stalks above ground making them easy to notice and harvest. Various forms of the exquisite C. malyi similarly produces lots of seed, as do the many named cultivars of C. chrysanthus (the latter, one needs to looks just at or below ground level). By "seed-assistance", I refer to the annual practice of gathering the seed, then sowing the seed "in situ" in various parts of the garden, just scratching them in. I've always had miserable results sowing Crocus in small pots, but harvesting the seed of Crocus and many other plants and scratching them directly into the ground has given results far better than I ever imagined... a lazy man's dream come true. It's still early in the season here, just a few crocus species starting to bloom, then set back with the return of snow and cold weather, but here's a look at some Crocus blooming a couple days ago. It's really fun with the C. chysanthus seedlings, as they hybridize readily, with all sorts of interesting color combinations and forms. NARGS Forum links, click any image to enlarge it. http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=555.msg7325#msg7325 http://nargs.org/smf/index.php?topic=555.msg7390#msg7390 PS: in spite of the topic title, none of these crocusy delights are "weedy" in the customary sense ;-) Mark McDonough antennaria@charter.net Massachusetts, USA, USDA Zone 5 From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Wed Mar 23 13:22:52 2011 Message-Id: <520673.83937.qm@web33904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: Sand to control Gnats? Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 10:22:46 -0700 (PDT) Hello everyone.   This is an awesome source of top notch gardening tips, much of it based on science. Anyway, I put paver (i.e. coarse) sand on the soil surfaces of pots and it cuts down on the amount of needed water. Maybe it will have a desired side effect of controlling fungus gnats?     James Frelichowski   Cotton Curator USDA-ARS (while we still have jobs) College Station, TX --- On Mon, 3/21/11, Kiyel Boland wrote: From: Kiyel Boland Subject: [pbs] Pings, Natures Gnat killer. To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Monday, March 21, 2011, 10:09 PM Hi all, i   use pings as a gnat killer. The best one i find is Ping x weser. as Kip said its the easest to grow and propargate. heres a link to some of the pings i grow.I just place a few "wesers" around in my seedling house and it helps to keep them under control. I also use yellow sticky paper as well. http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/carnivorous-plants/pings/ Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz www.savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ From plicht@berkeley.edu Wed Mar 23 15:11:42 2011 Message-Id: <4D8A45ED.5020105@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Bulb confusion issue Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 12:11:41 -0700 Some confusion surrounding the picture of Pycella ignea on PBS (one if from the Garden here) and the one I now have posted on our Whats in Bloom (http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu) has just come to my attention. The website lists Pycella bicolor as a synonym. However, my curator has just informed me that of the following: They are not synonymous, actually. Phycella ignea is now Phycella cyrtanthoides and Phycella bicolor is now Eustephia coccinea. Phycella _biflora _is a synonym of P. ignea, prior to P. ignea being placed into P. cyrtanthoides. In other words, the images (and the plant we have) is Eustephia coccinea. We are about to change our label. Any more experts at there? -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed Mar 23 16:33:11 2011 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Bulb confusion issue Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 13:33:09 -0700 Paul, There is definitely a lot of confusion in these genera. The changes that your curator found was probably from the Kew checklist. Based on that list, I wasn't able to find the latest evidence (published at least in the 1900's) by which the names were changed. A quick web search on Eustephia coccinea shows flowers that look quite different, taken by Dr. Alan Meerow. I don't see anything compelling enough to change your tags just yet, unless he can confirm the ID. Nhu -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/ On Wed, Mar 23, 2011 at 12:11 PM, Paul Licht wrote: > They are not synonymous, actually. > Phycella ignea is now Phycella cyrtanthoides and Phycella bicolor is now > Eustephia coccinea. > Phycella _biflora _is a synonym of P. ignea, prior to P. ignea being placed > into P. cyrtanthoides. > In other words, the images (and the plant we have) is Eustephia coccinea. > We are about to change our label. > From carlobal@netzero.net Wed Mar 23 17:55:34 2011 Message-Id: From: "Carlo A. Balistrieri" Subject: Cardiocrinum Date: Wed, 23 Mar 2011 17:54:43 -0400 Search them out. They are fantastic. Cardiocrinum giganteum bloomed for the first time in my early days at NYBG. Maybe I can pull it up to Canada at the Royal Botanical Gardens. Carlo 2 6 2 . 4 9 0 . 6 1 6 3 New York NJ Philadelphia From plicht@berkeley.edu Thu Mar 24 11:53:14 2011 Message-Id: <4D8B68D9.4000005@berkeley.edu> From: Paul Licht Subject: Bulb confusion issue Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 08:52:57 -0700 Nhu I've looked into a bit further. First, the plant we have is definitely P. bicolor, not ignea. Second, the listing on PBS that these are synonyms was never correct. Finally, Eustephia is considered the new accepted name of P. bicolor based on recent publications on the flora of Chile, although I guess we could keep using this older name. Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999 http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On 3/23/2011 1:33 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Paul, > > There is definitely a lot of confusion in these genera. The changes that > your curator found was probably from the Kew checklist. Based on that list, > I wasn't able to find the latest evidence (published at least in the 1900's) > by which the names were changed. A quick web search on Eustephia coccinea > shows flowers that look quite different, taken by Dr. Alan Meerow. I don't > see anything compelling enough to change your tags just yet, unless he can > confirm the ID. > > Nhu From vikingdoc@earthlink.net Thu Mar 24 15:21:19 2011 Message-Id: From: "Stokman" Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:20:57 -0700 I don't know if it would be possible in a large commercial operation but years ago I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, I'm not sure which. Can't beat that for organic, My purely anecdotal and sporadic observation is that it works, though the sand needs to be periodically replenished if the pot is watered from the top. zone 8/9, Sierra foothills From Santoury@aol.com Thu Mar 24 15:23:31 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB87007DFD274-A84-2C60@Webmail-d119.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 15:23:03 -0400 Huh? That's great to know. How do you tell if the plants need water, then? -----Original Message----- From: Stokman To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thu, Mar 24, 2011 3:20 pm Subject: [pbs] Fungus gnats I don't know if it would be possible in a large commercial operation but years ago I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, I'm not sure which. Can't beat that for organic, My purely anecdotal and sporadic observation is that it works, though the sand needs to be periodically replenished if the pot is watered from the top. zone 8/9, Sierra foothills _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From cjpcarroll@netscape.net Thu Mar 24 15:51:06 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB873EA082F68-1EAC-198E@webmail-d096.sysops.aol.com> From: Chris Carroll Subject: Intro and Fungus Gnats Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 15:50:51 -0400 Hi All I guess this is a good time to introduce myself since I feel I can contribute a bit to the current topic. My name is Chris, I live about 8 miles inland in San Diego. I grow a little bit of everything but the introduction of two little ones into my life has greatly cut into my backyard free time so I'm beginning to focus a bit more on winter growing stuff. This way I can let mother nature handle the watering while I make sure my kids don't mistake one of my pots for a soccer ball (it's happened.) I prefer to grow in the ground when I can but with the PBS seed lists I'm taking on some of the smaller stuff that can handle pot culture. Hopefully soon I'll have some things to contribute to the PBX as I can't possibly keep every seed that results in a plant. On the topic of fungus gnats I have used the sand top dressing with much success on aloe seedlings. If you have grown these from seed you know that they spend an agonizingly long time as a tiny plant and have small root structures which are vulnerable to the gnat larvae. The theory that I heard behind the technique is that the adult gnats can't dig down through the sand to lay their eggs. Whatever the case, I don't see many gnats around my pots that have the sand top dressing. I've also heard the technique recommended for indoor plants so that you don't end up with a bunch of flies in your house. I've been using another technique with aloe, and now bulb seeds which involves a modified baggy germinating chamber but I keep the system in the bag for 6 months. This allows the seedlings to grow to a fair size before unleashing them into the wild. It's working great, I can elaborate if anyone is interested. Anyway, this is a great resource, I look forward to all the posts. Chris From xerics@cox.net Thu Mar 24 16:24:53 2011 Message-Id: <005d01cbea68$734dfba0$59e9f2e0$@net> From: "Richard" Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 13:14:24 -0800 I use a layer of granite grit (used as poultry grit or roofing grit) on all my seed pots. It does help keep the gnats from the organic soil beneath, and it prevents the seeds from washing when they are watered. Richard Vista CA -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Stokman Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 11:21 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Fungus gnats I don't know if it would be possible in a large commercial operation but years ago I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, I'm not sure which. Can't beat that for organic, My purely anecdotal and sporadic observation is that it works, though the sand needs to be periodically replenished if the pot is watered from the top. zone 8/9, Sierra foothills From Santoury@aol.com Fri Mar 25 09:46:53 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB90A2FFFE78A-1530-AC7E@Webmail-d123.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:46:33 -0400 I need some of these - preferably red. Any leads appreciated. These are for a friend. Thanks, Jude = From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 25 10:48:14 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: The Taliban don't give phytos Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 09:45:07 -0500 Dear PBS ers, Read a fascinating bulbous story by our own friend Paige Woodward: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6967.0 Fascinating bulb tale. Best and congrats to P, Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From bulborum@gmail.com Fri Mar 25 10:46:59 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Intro and Fungus Gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:46:58 +0100 Does this also works if you use Broken Lava 0,5-2 cm instead of a sand layer has somebody experience with this Roland On the topic of fungus gnats I have used the sand top dressing with much > success on aloe seedlings > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From gardenpt@aol.com Fri Mar 25 11:16:11 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB916B2F156F0-D698-55C3@TSTMAIL-D09.sysops.aol.com> From: gardenpt@aol.com Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 11:16:07 -0400 (EDT) I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested very early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) for at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. Jean in Portland, OR From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 11:27:06 2011 Message-Id: <271553.21343.qm@web65907.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:27:05 -0700 (PDT) I tried the sand method and it didn't work for me. Also tried the cut potato method (lay a cut potato on the soil, the larva go to the potato), and that didn't work, either. ________________________________ From: "gardenpt@aol.com" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 11:16:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested very early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) for at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. Jean in Portland, OR From wusong@evilemail.com Fri Mar 25 11:32:30 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 11:32:27 -0400 I hear eye of newt boiled in the milk of a goat born on Walpurgisnacht works, but only if boiled in the light of a full moon. -Dave On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 11:27 AM, Susan B wrote: > I tried the sand method and it didn't work for me. Also tried the cut > potato > method (lay a cut potato on the soil, the larva go to the potato), and that > didn't work, either. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: "gardenpt@aol.com" > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 11:16:07 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats > > > > > > > I read that pouring a layer of sand on > > top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, > > reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, > > > > Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. > > Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested > very > early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) > for > at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. > > Jean in Portland, OR > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 11:38:42 2011 Message-Id: <247178.46274.qm@web65904.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: The Taliban don't give phytos Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:38:41 -0700 (PDT) That is a great story! Thanks for passing on the link, James, and thanks for writing it, Paige! (I love the Zantedeschia on the matchbox, too!) ________________________________ From: James Waddick To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 10:45:07 AM Subject: [pbs] The Taliban don't give phytos Dear PBS ers, Read a fascinating bulbous story by our own friend Paige Woodward: http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6967.0 Fascinating bulb tale. Best and congrats to P, Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Santoury@aol.com Fri Mar 25 15:03:10 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB93659868ED6-1D14-1DA8@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:02:41 -0400 Hi all, I sent this earlier this morning, but never got it back to myself, so I don't think it went through. I am looking for red Watsonia - for a friend. I don't care what species. Just need a couple. Let me know, or let me know who has some "now" (Not in September.) Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Susan B To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Mar 25, 2011 11:27 am Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I tried the sand method and it didn't work for me. Also tried the cut potato method (lay a cut potato on the soil, the larva go to the potato), and that didn't work, either. ________________________________ From: "gardenpt@aol.com" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 11:16:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested very early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) for at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. Jean in Portland, OR _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 15:04:45 2011 Message-Id: <1353308982-1301079880-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1502178043-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 19:04:38 +0000 Hi jude. I just ran across some in bloom pink ones. I will go back to the nursery and see if they have red ones. I also saw some watsonia bulbs at walmart ill go check tonight! Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: santoury@aol.com Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:02:41 To: Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Watsonia bulbs Hi all, I sent this earlier this morning, but never got it back to myself, so I don't think it went through. I am looking for red Watsonia - for a friend. I don't care what species. Just need a couple. Let me know, or let me know who has some "now" (Not in September.) Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Susan B To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Mar 25, 2011 11:27 am Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I tried the sand method and it didn't work for me. Also tried the cut potato method (lay a cut potato on the soil, the larva go to the potato), and that didn't work, either. ________________________________ From: "gardenpt@aol.com" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 11:16:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested very early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) for at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. Jean in Portland, OR _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Santoury@aol.com Fri Mar 25 15:11:25 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB93781EE223B-1D14-1F4B@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:10:58 -0400 That would be awesome - thank you! Let me know, and I can paypal you - as long as they do have them, of course! Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Warren Keller To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Mar 25, 2011 3:04 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Watsonia bulbs Hi jude. I just ran across some in bloom pink ones. I will go back to the nursery and see if they have red ones. I also saw some watsonia bulbs at walmart ill go check tonight! Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: santoury@aol.com Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 15:02:41 To: Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Watsonia bulbs Hi all, I sent this earlier this morning, but never got it back to myself, so I don't think it went through. I am looking for red Watsonia - for a friend. I don't care what species. Just need a couple. Let me know, or let me know who has some "now" (Not in September.) Thanks, Jude -----Original Message----- From: Susan B To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Mar 25, 2011 11:27 am Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I tried the sand method and it didn't work for me. Also tried the cut potato method (lay a cut potato on the soil, the larva go to the potato), and that didn't work, either. ________________________________ From: "gardenpt@aol.com" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Fri, March 25, 2011 11:16:07 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Fungus gnats I read that pouring a layer of sand on top of the soil in a pot would eliminate fungus gnats, reportedly because the sand cut up gnats or their larva, Nice thought, and widely believed to be true. But not so. Instead, use Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti) as was suggested very early on in this thread. Use the Bti (dissolved in your irrigation water) for at least 3 weeks to break the gnat's life cycle. Jean in Portland, OR _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 16:36:17 2011 Message-Id: <788294.27701.qm@web84409.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> From: Warren Keller Subject: still have haemanthus deformis Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 13:36:14 -0700 (PDT) Still have a few mature bulbs left, of haemanthus deformis, 30 dollars a bulb. Thanks! Warren From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 25 17:22:41 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:01:24 -0500 >I hear eye of newt boiled in the milk of a goat born on Walpurgisnacht >works, but only if boiled in the light of a full moon. > >-Dave Works for me - every time. See: "The Truth About Garden Remedies. What works, what doesn't and why" by Jeff Gillman. He has a couple other related titles all from Timber Press. Very interesting Jim W -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From oothal@hotmail.com Fri Mar 25 17:27:52 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: Gilliesia montana Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:27:50 -0500 Hi All, I have me two little seedlings of Gilliesia montana this seems to be an interesting plant. Anyone know if it requires a dry dormant period or can tolerate/needs some moisture all of the time. Any other info would be welcome. On a side note, the saying misery likes company is certainly true. I want to share my misery, sorry. The other day while driving to town I saw several large brush clearing machines plowing through one of the few little bogs, that still was moist in our current drought. Big giant furrows were plowed though this little bog. Just last summer I found for the first time in this bog hundreds of small ground orchids blooming. I can just imagine that what little water there is now gets quickly drained away in the furrows letting the orchids dry out in our heat and drought. I am sure some will survive but it's sad to me non the less. Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a and very dry From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Mar 25 18:11:50 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Gilliesia montana Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 22:11:47 +0000 Hi Justin, it is a very rare plant. Comes from a cool climate and better grown in very good light but not in direct sunshine. Yes, it is rather dry in summer. Although the plant may be hardy, the bulb possibly won't. Like so many other bulbs, if the ground freezes solid it can be killed. Best > From: oothal@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:27:50 -0500 > Subject: [pbs] Gilliesia montana > > > Hi All, > > I have me two little seedlings of Gilliesia montana this seems to be an interesting plant. > > Anyone know if it requires a dry dormant period or can tolerate/needs some moisture all of the time. > > Any other info would be welcome. > > > On a side note, the saying misery likes company is certainly true. I want to share my misery, sorry. The other day while driving to town I saw several large brush clearing machines plowing through one of the few little bogs, that still was moist in our current drought. Big giant furrows were plowed though this little bog. Just last summer I found for the first time in this bog hundreds of small ground orchids blooming. I can just imagine that what little water there is now gets quickly drained away in the furrows letting the orchids dry out in our heat and drought. > I am sure some will survive but it's sad to me non the less. > > Justin > Woodville, TX 8b/9a and very dry > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 18:17:29 2011 Message-Id: <1176927160-1301091443-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-889575975-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Gilliesia montana Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 22:17:22 +0000 I'd like to purchase this bulb. Know of anyone who has one for sale? I live on the central coast of california. And I know this bulb would do great here. Warren Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Alberto Castillo Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 22:11:47 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Gilliesia montana Hi Justin, it is a very rare plant. Comes from a cool climate and better grown in very good light but not in direct sunshine. Yes, it is rather dry in summer. Although the plant may be hardy, the bulb possibly won't. Like so many other bulbs, if the ground freezes solid it can be killed. Best > From: oothal@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:27:50 -0500 > Subject: [pbs] Gilliesia montana > > > Hi All, > > I have me two little seedlings of Gilliesia montana this seems to be an interesting plant. > > Anyone know if it requires a dry dormant period or can tolerate/needs some moisture all of the time. > > Any other info would be welcome. > > > On a side note, the saying misery likes company is certainly true. I want to share my misery, sorry. The other day while driving to town I saw several large brush clearing machines plowing through one of the few little bogs, that still was moist in our current drought. Big giant furrows were plowed though this little bog. Just last summer I found for the first time in this bog hundreds of small ground orchids blooming. I can just imagine that what little water there is now gets quickly drained away in the furrows letting the orchids dry out in our heat and drought. > I am sure some will survive but it's sad to me non the less. > > Justin > Woodville, TX 8b/9a and very dry > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wusong@evilemail.com Fri Mar 25 18:55:19 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 18:55:17 -0400 I asked about the plant *Ledebouria socialis* "Miner" (named in a rare fit of Steve-Hammeritude by John Trager) a while back, nd no one had any ideas. I just thought I'd float the question out there again: Does anyone know the origin of this plant? It seems to have a slightly different activity cycle from other forms of socialis. Not by much, but... Also, (forgive me) anybody want to trade some for socialis clones WITH LOCALITY DATA? Furthermore, I am heartened by the plaudits for my eye of newt suggesion. If you have any other questions on my somewhat unorthodox gardening techniques, ask them quickly - I sold my soul to the Prince of Darkness for protection against brown scale many years ago, and the bill comes due shortly. - Dave From samarak@gizmoworks.com Fri Mar 25 19:51:12 2011 Message-Id: From: Steve Marak Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 18:18:18 -0500 (CDT) Dave, No idea about the origin of the plant - I got it from John. For me, the activity cycle is still a mystery, as I have it in every stage of growth from leafless dormant bulb to flowering, all within a few feet of each other, as I write this. And even what appear to be a few seedlings, germinated in a pot which was under an infloresence. (I have so much I've considered sending a bunch to Dell for the BX, but wasn't sure if others would like it as much as I do.) Steve On Fri, 25 Mar 2011, dave s wrote: > I asked about the plant *Ledebouria socialis* "Miner" (named in a rare fit > of Steve-Hammeritude by John Trager) a while back, nd no one had any ideas. > I just thought I'd float the question out there again: Does anyone know the > origin of this plant? It seems to have a slightly different activity cycle > from other forms of socialis. Not by much, but... Also, (forgive me) > anybody want to trade some for socialis clones WITH LOCALITY DATA? -- Steve Marak -- samarak@gizmoworks.com From totototo@telus.net Fri Mar 25 19:28:33 2011 Message-Id: <4D8CC2A9.22040.2792@localhost> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 16:28:25 -0700 WRT to the "sand cuts the gnats and/or their larvae", the core idea is sound, but the implementation is flawed. It's diatomaceous earth that is an effective insecticide by virtue of scratching through an insect's waxy epicuticle, subjecting them to gradual desiccation and eventual death. I'm not sure if this works on larval exoskeletons. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada From wusong@evilemail.com Fri Mar 25 20:38:21 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 20:38:20 -0400 Yeah, I basically beat mine into submission with a bone, dead dry wnter. But the fact that it seems happy to grow in winter, or in spring, and will grow in summer xcept in extreme heat makes me think it could be a hybrid of socialis and some winter growing *Ledebouria*. OTOH, it's SO distinct that maybe it's an undescribed species...? Oh well. On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 7:18 PM, Steve Marak wrote: > Dave, > > No idea about the origin of the plant - I got it from John. For me, the > activity cycle is still a mystery, as I have it in every stage of growth > from leafless dormant bulb to flowering, all within a few feet of each > other, as I write this. And even what appear to be a few seedlings, > germinated in a pot which was under an infloresence. > > (I have so much I've considered sending a bunch to Dell for the BX, but > wasn't sure if others would like it as much as I do.) > > Steve > > On Fri, 25 Mar 2011, dave s wrote: > > > I asked about the plant *Ledebouria socialis* "Miner" (named in a rare > fit > > of Steve-Hammeritude by John Trager) a while back, nd no one had any > ideas. > > I just thought I'd float the question out there again: Does anyone know > the > > origin of this plant? It seems to have a slightly different activity > cycle > > from other forms of socialis. Not by much, but... Also, (forgive me) > > anybody want to trade some for socialis clones WITH LOCALITY DATA? > > -- Steve Marak > -- samarak@gizmoworks.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From wusong@evilemail.com Fri Mar 25 20:40:11 2011 Message-Id: From: dave s Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 20:40:09 -0400 I guess I phrased things lousily - I HAVE "Miner" and am looking for socialis w/data. BTW, do you have the socialis formerly known as "pauciflora?" On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 8:38 PM, dave s wrote: > Yeah, I basically beat mine into submission with a bone, dead dry wnter. > But the fact that it seems happy to grow in winter, or in spring, and will > grow in summer xcept in extreme heat makes me think it could be a hybrid of > socialis and some winter growing *Ledebouria*. OTOH, it's SO distinct > that maybe it's an undescribed species...? Oh well. > > > > On Fri, Mar 25, 2011 at 7:18 PM, Steve Marak wrote: > >> Dave, >> >> No idea about the origin of the plant - I got it from John. For me, the >> activity cycle is still a mystery, as I have it in every stage of growth >> from leafless dormant bulb to flowering, all within a few feet of each >> other, as I write this. And even what appear to be a few seedlings, >> germinated in a pot which was under an infloresence. >> >> (I have so much I've considered sending a bunch to Dell for the BX, but >> wasn't sure if others would like it as much as I do.) >> >> Steve >> >> On Fri, 25 Mar 2011, dave s wrote: >> >> > I asked about the plant *Ledebouria socialis* "Miner" (named in a rare >> fit >> > of Steve-Hammeritude by John Trager) a while back, nd no one had any >> ideas. >> > I just thought I'd float the question out there again: Does anyone know >> the >> > origin of this plant? It seems to have a slightly different activity >> cycle >> > from other forms of socialis. Not by much, but... Also, (forgive me) >> > anybody want to trade some for socialis clones WITH LOCALITY DATA? >> >> -- Steve Marak >> -- samarak@gizmoworks.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > From smirgol@aim.com Fri Mar 25 21:58:30 2011 Message-Id: <8CDB9706A87DE07-19C0-32DD@webmail-m083.sysops.aol.com> From: Dave Janas Subject: fungus gnats Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 21:58:20 -0400 (EDT) I've never tried sand in the pots specifically to curb fungus gnats, but I do keep a Drosera capensis extremely well-fed by rotating it around my collection. I hardly ever see them flying around anymore. Dave From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri Mar 25 22:21:16 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 21:20:57 -0500 >I guess I phrased things lousily - I HAVE "Miner" and am looking for >socialis w/data. > >BTW, do you have the socialis formerly known as "pauciflora?" Dave S and all, I am still in the dark here. Please review what this 'Miner' form of L. "socialis" (or whatever it is ) is. I do have the old pauciflora and would be glad to make an exchange for 'Miner'. Aaron Floden usually keeps current on these - any reply from Aaron? This genus and its close relatives needs a thorough review or is it just me? Best Jim W. ps Is there a wiki entry for 'Miner' ? -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Fri Mar 25 23:45:01 2011 Message-Id: <297040.50631.qm@web34305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Ledebouria socialis...maybe? Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 20:44:59 -0700 (PDT)  Here is the Huntington link when "Miner" was introduced. It is described as dwarf and with more silver maculation, really green spots on silver. I don't grow this, but would like to. I have about 10 clones of socialis (violacea, pauciflora/paucifolia, etc) and a single with provenance collection. The last is the only one to set seed regularly. Would love to trade for L. "Miner."  I have found several of my socialis clones grow with enough warmth if water is provided. Others, the pauciflora thing, seem to like to be dormant for the winter no matter what I try.  The genus is under review! And will still need a lot more reviewing. I have a disk of hundreds of in situ photos from a few people in SA that show several undescribed species. In my continually growing collection I would think I have most of the S-African species represented, but the variation within a species is puzzling and the available keys don't work for me. For example; the first plant I had flower this year I attempted to key using Venter's thesis. It keyed, when fresh to L. luteola which it clearly is not. Once that same plant dries out it loses a diagnostic character (or gains it!) because the leaf and bulb threads disappear when dry, but are present when fresh....  Aaron --- On Sat, 3/26/11, James Waddick wrote: From: James Waddick Subject: Re: [pbs] Ledebouria socialis...maybe? To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Saturday, March 26, 2011, 10:20 AM Dave S and all,     I am still in the dark here. Please review what this 'Miner' form of L. "socialis" (or whatever it is ) is.     I do have the old pauciflora and would be glad to make an exchange for 'Miner'.     Aaron Floden usually keeps current on these - any reply from Aaron?     This genus and its close relatives needs a thorough review or is it just me?         Best        Jim W. ps Is there a wiki entry for 'Miner' ? -- From bulborum@gmail.com Sat Mar 26 02:48:07 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 07:48:05 +0100 If you can't find them I can have a look in the wholesale here Roland 2011/3/25 > Hi all, > I sent this earlier this morning, but never got it back to myself, so I > don't think it went through. > I am looking for red Watsonia - for a friend. I don't care what species. > Just need a couple. Let me know, or let me know who has some "now" (Not in > September.) > Thanks, Jude > > > > > > > > > > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From contact@bulbargence.com Sat Mar 26 04:12:55 2011 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Watsonia bulbs Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 09:12:19 +0100 Hello Jude, Just have a look at our website www.bulbargence.com. They generally tend to be on the pink side. All winter growing species available during their dormancy July-August. Beware of a real "thug" called W meriana bulbifera. Kind greetings Lauw de Jager www.bulbargence.com. South of France -----Original Message----- I am looking for red Watsonia - for a friend. I don't care what species. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat Mar 26 11:17:32 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: wiki bits Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 09:06:11 -0500 Dear PBSers, Although I ashamedly admit to incompetence when it comes to posting to the wiki, Jacob Knecht has kindly added a couple pix to the wiki for me. I am alerting you to these for your almost spring amusement. Impatiens flanaganae is a plant that is rare in cultivation, but I acquired my tubers from the amazingly generous PBS BX via PBS member Ernie De Marie. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Impatiens John Grimshaw earlier provided a fascinating summary of the few species of tuberous Impatiens from S. Africa. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2008-August/031420.html My tubers proved somewhat tempermental about growing in my Missouri prairie-edge climate. They did well when received in late winter grew nicely only to seem to die in the heat of mid-summer. I moved the lifeless looking pot into the shade until fall when it went to the cool greenhouse and they rose again with increased vigor. These pix were taken recently and they continue in bloom. I wrote recently when these Leucojum were in bloom, but now provide a picture. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Leucojum Once again the amazing John Grimshaw has commented earlier on this list about this cultivar being multi-petalled, not a double in the strictest sense. One of the pictures makes this obvious. Fortunately Leucojum do very well for me and although I have just had this for a short period, it has begun to mutliply. It blooms synchronously with L. aestivum carpaticum. ... and 'NO'. I cannot provide any commercial source or my anonymous donor. Thanks, Jacob, Ernie, John and all who keep the wiki and PBS a vibrant location for uncommon bulbs and Jim Murrain my resident photographer. Enjoying a hint of spring, even with a forecast of snow Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ardiebaer@comcast.net Sat Mar 26 12:11:34 2011 Message-Id: <1FB79C173890480FAABC6A3EF0CD44C1@ARDIE> From: "ardiebaer" Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 11:11:31 -0500 Where do you recommend storage of seeds for fall and winter germination of Tecophilaea, Rhodophiala, Veltheimia and Massonia? Refrigerator or air conditioning. How cold and/or humid? Thanks. Ardie Baer From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Sat Mar 26 12:36:33 2011 Message-Id: <410-220113626163629390@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: fungus gnats Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 12:36:29 -0400 Bounce® Fabric Softener Dryer Sheets Repel Fungus Gnat, Bradysia sp. nr. coprophila (Diptera: Sciaridae), Adults Raymond A. Cloyd1 Kansas State University, Department of Entomology, 123 Waters Hall, Manhattan, KS 66506-4004 http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/cgi/content/abstract/45/12/1830 Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Mar 26 13:48:30 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 17:48:29 +0000 Tecophilaea you have two species both having different requirements, Rhodophiala from two cycles and widely diverging habitats, Massonia you have from winter and summer cycles. Only both Veltheimias seed can be for sure stored for the summer at room temperatures in paper bags. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Mar 26 14:04:31 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 10:59:45 -0700 Ardie wrote: >Where do you recommend storage of seeds for fall and winter >germination of Tecophilaea, Rhodophiala, Veltheimia and >Massonia? Refrigerator or air conditioning. How cold and/or >humid? Thanks. Ardie Baer I don't know about the others, but I've grown a lot of Tecophilaea from seeds saved from my own plants, and I store them at room temperature over the summer for sowing in early fall. Humidity is low here in the summer. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon USA From kimcmich@hotmail.com Sat Mar 26 16:16:10 2011 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 13:16:07 -0700 Massonia seed are durable and have a thick seed coat. They can remain viable for multiple years and don't need refigeration. Keep them reasonably cool and a basement or dry shelf in a shed should be fine. -| From: ardiebaer@comcast.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 11:11:31 -0500 > Subject: [pbs] Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination > > Where do you recommend storage of seeds for fall and winter germination of Tecophilaea, Rhodophiala, Veltheimia and Massonia? Refrigerator or air conditioning. How cold and/or humid? Thanks. Ardie Baer > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Sat Mar 26 16:17:29 2011 Message-Id: <600369335-1301170645-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-675141915-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:17:23 +0000 I need some masonia. Have two mature bulbs left of haemanthis deformis. Would like to trade with anyone who has masonia Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Kipp McMichael Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 13:16:07 To: Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Massonia seed are durable and have a thick seed coat. They can remain viable for multiple years and don't need refigeration. Keep them reasonably cool and a basement or dry shelf in a shed should be fine. -| From: ardiebaer@comcast.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 11:11:31 -0500 > Subject: [pbs] Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination > > Where do you recommend storage of seeds for fall and winter germination of Tecophilaea, Rhodophiala, Veltheimia and Massonia? Refrigerator or air conditioning. How cold and/or humid? Thanks. Ardie Baer > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rherold@yahoo.com Sat Mar 26 17:08:46 2011 Message-Id: <4D8E55DE.80807@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 17:08:46 -0400 Warren Keller wrote: > I need some masonia. Have two mature bulbs left of haemanthis deformis. Hang in there, Warren. I'll be sending in *lots* of massonia seeds and bulbs to the BX later this year, probably around July. There was excellent seed set on the plants this year, and a number of seedlings are large enough to share. No real need for haemanthus here, I'm afraid.... --Roy From warren_keller@yahoo.com Sat Mar 26 17:11:45 2011 Message-Id: <1846175978-1301173900-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1191461873-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 21:11:39 +0000 Why afraid of haemanthus if I may ask. I've on really had problems with katherine. It likes very very well drained soil! I've lost many katherines do to this problem. They go dormant in the winter. And it seems they like to be dug up and set a top the soil. Then replanted when warmer weather comes. But the big leaf haemanthus I've never lost a one! Warren Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Roy Herold Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 17:08:46 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Warren Keller wrote: > I need some masonia. Have two mature bulbs left of haemanthis deformis. Hang in there, Warren. I'll be sending in *lots* of massonia seeds and bulbs to the BX later this year, probably around July. There was excellent seed set on the plants this year, and a number of seedlings are large enough to share. No real need for haemanthus here, I'm afraid.... --Roy From bulborum@gmail.com Sat Mar 26 18:07:47 2011 Message-Id: From: bulborum botanicum Subject: Storing Seed for Fall and Winter Germination Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 23:07:45 +0100 Witch ones are you looking for and do you want seeds or bulbs Roland 2011/3/26 Warren Keller > I need some masonia. Have two mature bulbs left of haemanthis deformis. > Would like to trade with anyone who has masonia > Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kipp McMichael > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Mar 26 20:45:40 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: PBS Officers on the move Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 17:45:33 -0700 This is to let those of you who are members of the Society know that some changes have been made in the officer and board roster. Patricia Colville has resigned as Membership Coordinator, and Jane McGary has resigned as President in order to take over the position of Membership Coordinator. James Waddick has kindly agreed to serve as President for the remainder of 2011. An election of officers will be held in January 2012. Correspondence about membership can now be directed to Jane , or in the case of questions specifically about dues, to Arnold Trachtenberg, Treasurer . I'd like to remind you that if you would like e-mails answered, and you block "unknown" senders, it is polite to add the person to whom you are writing to your list of "acceptable" senders. I don't know how other people feel about it, but I don't have time to jump through hoops in order to answer an inquiry. Thanks to all of you who are current members! Those who have not yet renewed for 2011 will soon hear from Arnold with a gentle reminder, and I hope you'll stick with us! All the best, Jane McGary From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat Mar 26 21:15:02 2011 Message-Id: <14884D09-76BD-4499-A9C8-B4AAFC276167@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: spam blockers was PBS Officers on the move Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 18:15:00 -0700 I have to write to a lot of people (currently I'm the registrar for an upcoming convention) and I get very annoyed when my message to say someone's cheque has arrived safely is responded to by a message saying the person is trying to keep their incoming mail cleansed of any unwanted messages, so please read this squiggly puzzle and type what the squiggles are supposed to be (kind of difficult for aging eyes), and then if you pass the squiggle test, you get a little essay to write to say why you should be admitted to the blessed circle. My message is usually not very cordial. I consider it rude and inconsiderate for someone to assume their time is more valuable than mine. And what they ought to know is that well-known people graciously answer queries - sometimes within the hour. I've had kind responses from authors, newspaper columnists, famous gardeners, professors. Diane Whitehead On 26-Mar-11, at 5:45 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > > I'd like to remind you that if you would like e-mails answered, and > you block "unknown" senders, it is polite to add the person to whom > you are writing to your list of "acceptable" senders. I don't know > how other people feel about it, but I don't have time to jump > through hoops in order to answer an inquiry. > From paige@hillkeep.ca Sat Mar 26 23:13:58 2011 Message-Id: <1C58C786849B46B0BB416F81BD0D8ADA@m6u3j5> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: PBS membership numbers Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:09:48 -0700 How many people belong to PBS, and how many belong to the list? I am only on the list. I plan to rejoin PBS when the financial tide comes in, in a month or two. Paige Woodward From paige@hillkeep.ca Sat Mar 26 23:13:58 2011 Message-Id: <32A44F4A667C49F7A055A6050BFFD340@m6u3j5> From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: PBS Officers on the move Date: Sat, 26 Mar 2011 20:13:23 -0700 This do-si-do (a squaredance manoeuvre) can only intrigue outsiders. Jane and Jim are both well suited to being president of PBS. Jim, all hail. Paige Woodward >Jane McGary has resigned as President in order to take over the position of >Membership Coordinator. James Waddick has kindly agreed to serve as >President for the remainder of 2011. An election of officers will be held >in January 2012. From dkramb@gmail.com Sun Mar 27 10:43:37 2011 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: PBS Officers on the move Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2011 10:43:36 -0400 I couldn't agree with you more, Paige. Well put !!!!! Dennis in Cincinnati On Sat, Mar 26, 2011 at 11:13 PM, Pacific Rim wrote: > This do-si-do (a squaredance manoeuvre) can only intrigue outsiders. Jane > and Jim are both well suited to being president of PBS. Jim, all hail. > > Paige Woodward > > > Jane McGary has resigned as President in order to take over the position >> of Membership Coordinator. James Waddick has kindly agreed to serve as >> President for the remainder of 2011. An election of officers will be held in >> January 2012. >> > > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Mar 28 15:09:18 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: PBS membership and officers. Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 14:09:12 -0500 >How many people belong to PBS, and how many belong to the list? > >I am only on the list. I plan to rejoin PBS when the financial tide >comes in, in a month or two. Dear Paige, You asked an apparently difficult question. Let me give an 'obvious' and obviously incorrect answer. The Membership Directory gives a total of 267 members. This directory also includes members who are delinquent and does not include new members. I'd guess the correct number is closer to 200 members. Membership gives you access to the quarterly 'The Bulb Garden" publication and every BX announced on the elist. Membership also supports this elist. The elist has 2 to 3 times the number of paid members which means something near 600 cyber PBSers. Personally I think membership is a good thing just to support the elist. If you order only a couple items a year form the BX you will probably 'pay' for the cost of membership considering the rarity of many items offered for a small fee. If you go to http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php and browse membership and BX you'll get more details. On assuming he Presidency of the PBS membership organization, I am filling a spot temporarily. Since I was not on the board previously, I claim little knowledge about the inner workings of PBS: on the job learning. This also allows me to accept any suggestions and comments without bias or preconception of 'how things are done'. If you have any fresh ideas, complaints, comments, whatever, please drop me a note at and chat. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From meneice@att.net Mon Mar 28 15:55:06 2011 Message-Id: <36623355EE0445729FD23AC0D0993734@DF5XS5C1> From: Subject: PBS membership and officers. Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 12:55:02 -0700 PBS membership is the biggest bargain in the horticultural world. For instance, the annual fee of the Cactus and Succulent Society is over twice as much. Considering the amount of information available at PBS, plus the opportunities to purchase unusual seeds/bulbs for little more than the price of postage, it is just plain foolish not to join. Shirley Meneice From ds429@comcast.net Mon Mar 28 16:28:41 2011 Message-Id: <000001cbed86$bae7b8e0$30b72aa0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Harry Hay Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 16:28:41 -0400 Dear All, I read in the Rock Garden Quarterly of the passing of Harry Hay of the United Kingdom. Harry was never a member of PBS, but he was one of the grand old men of bulb growing. Some of you had the opportunity to meet him and others have unknowingly grown plants from the descendents of his seeds. I have grown and shared Pamianthe peruviana that came from Harry. He was an extraordinary grower of some of the most unusual bulbs in the world. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From vikingdoc@earthlink.net Mon Mar 28 16:58:01 2011 Message-Id: <2AE2572D35DB4D3CB89CFA188A69E744@wanderer> From: "Stokman" Subject: Fungus gnats Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 13:57:38 -0700 Apparently M.A. Harris, W.A. Gardner and R.D. Oetting concluded in 'A review of the scientific literature on fungus gnats, 1996,' that a layer of sand did reduce the population of gnats though not by cutting them up. Sand dries out quickly--which would depend upon the type of sand--and the gnats are confused, unable to detect fungus in the underlying medium, according to the few articles I found online on this subject. Another study indicated that diatomaceous earth did not work because it absorbed moisture and cracked, allowing access to the mixture below. I was unable to read either of these sources in their original form and found very little online addressing this issue. As I indicated in my first post, my own completely unscientific experience is that it works. I hear eye of newt boiled in the milk of a goat born on Walpurgisnacht >works, but only if boiled in the light of a full moon. > >-Dave However, unlike Dave, eye of newt has always failed me no matter how I prepare it, but garlic bulbs in every ninth pot (the placement is critical) is an effective deterrent and has the added benefit of warding off vampires with an undying craving for Scadoxus multiflorus. zone 8/9, Sierra foothills From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon Mar 28 19:46:59 2011 Message-Id: <1A75B417-B386-4E38-86C7-4C555A04F9CC@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Harry Hay Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 16:46:48 -0700 Thanks for passing this on, Dell. I was one of the fortunate ones that got to meet him in person and spend an afternoon with him (thanks to Paul Chapman). How he managed to get one of the best and most diverse private collections of bulbs (as well as other plants) in the world, I will never know. I asked him about it, and he said he merely kept contacting everyone everywhere asking to trade or buy for just about any bulb and built up an amazing set of contacts. Of course, he had been doing this for a long time. And to think he really did used to be a pig farmer (until the M25 Motorway that encircles London was built bisecting his farm)! And at least for me, he (and his wife) were a joy to visit. Such a nice man. He will be missed. Dell, did the article say anything about his vast collection? Will his wife continue to care for it, or maybe pass the contents on to a worthy (or several worthy) entities? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 28, 2011, at 1:28 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > Dear All, > > > > I read in the Rock Garden Quarterly of the passing of Harry Hay of the > United Kingdom. Harry was never a member of PBS, but he was one of the grand > old men of bulb growing. Some of you had the opportunity to meet him and > others have unknowingly grown plants from the descendents of his seeds. I > have grown and shared Pamianthe peruviana that came from Harry. He was an > extraordinary grower of some of the most unusual bulbs in the world. > From msittner@mcn.org Mon Mar 28 20:14:24 2011 Message-Id: <20110329001423.B33774C05D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Harry Hay Date: Mon, 28 Mar 2011 17:13:30 -0700 I too was lucky enough to visit Harry and afterwards to get his catalog of seed he sent out free every year. There was always a story or two about some recent experience in his garden that made his catalog fun to read. At the moment I have an unidentified (and not weedy) white Nothoscordum in bloom from Harry seed, originally grown from Flores and Watson seed. Because he was so generous with others, people were generous with him. David Victor kindly took my husband and me to meet Harry and took along a number of plants to give him. Harry quickly went through those plants, saying, "I want this", "I don't want this", etc. David said he was always pleased if something he brought to give him Harry wanted. I will never forgot that wonderful visit and the strange background noise from the freeway that made it sound like you were at the ocean, but you couldn't see any cars since so many plants had been added to provide a screen. I was surprised that there was no notice on the list when he died. I think David said that he was to get the Herbert medal and people were waiting for that to be announced. I finally added a note not too long ago that he had died on the wiki page Lee started and I added to, David Pilling added a link to John Grimshaw's blog about his death that you can access from there. It didn't say anything about his collection. Maybe someone on this list who knew him can let us know. I missed the catalog this year, not because I wanted more seeds since I hadn't ordered any recently, but just because I always like reading it and remembering the time I was lucky enough to get to meet him. Mary Sue From antigre10@yahoo.gr Tue Mar 29 06:00:29 2011 Message-Id: <466233.48199.qm@web28608.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Xeronema callistemon Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 11:00:27 +0100 (BST) Hello all,   I was wondering if someone knows a source for Xeronema callistemon in Europe.   Thanks in advance,   Antigoni Rentzeperis   From lmp5566@earthlink.net Tue Mar 29 14:32:40 2011 Message-Id: From: "Gail Skaggs" Subject: Crinum x Christopher Thunbergii Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 13:32:50 -0500 Bought this at Peckerwood Garden but can't find any info on internet? Emailed PG but have not received a response yet. Pot tag spelling is "Thundbergii" but their plant list spelling is "Thunbergii". From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Tue Mar 29 17:58:04 2011 Message-Id: <004701cbee56$5ff9ddc0$2301a8c0@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 22:15:04 +0100 I thought people might like to know that PBS member Harold Koopowitz was presented with the Ralph B White Memorial Medal this afternoon at the Royal Horticultural Society's show in London. The presentation was made by RHS President, Elizabeth Banks, and was for raising a miniature split-corona daffodil called 'Itsy Bitsy Splitsy'. Not my cup of tea, but it was great to see Harold's work with daffodils being recognized. Also receiving an award, in her case the Peter Barr Memorial Cup for meritorious work with daffodils, was Kathryn Andersen from Pennsylvania - Kathy is also well-known as a lily and Clivia enthusiast, and is quite indomitable in pursuit of plants. There are pics (and much the same text) on my blog. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 From ds429@comcast.net Tue Mar 29 19:19:15 2011 Message-Id: <1476932389.255679.1301437821142.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 22:30:21 +0000 (UTC) Thank you, John. I am pleased that Harold and Kathy have received yet more recognition for their work. They are great bulb people! Best wishes, Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Grimshaw" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 5:15:04 PM Subject: [pbs] RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz I thought people might like to know that PBS member Harold Koopowitz was presented with the Ralph B White Memorial Medal this afternoon at the Royal Horticultural Society's show in London. The presentation was made by RHS President, Elizabeth Banks, and was for raising a miniature split-corona daffodil called 'Itsy Bitsy Splitsy'. Not my cup of tea, but it was great to see Harold's work with daffodils being recognized. Also receiving an award, in her case the Peter Barr Memorial Cup for meritorious work with daffodils, was Kathryn Andersen from Pennsylvania - Kathy is also well-known as a lily and Clivia enthusiast, and is quite indomitable in pursuit of plants. There are pics (and much the same text) on my blog. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue Mar 29 19:59:18 2011 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 23:59:15 +0000 Harold has not received the recognition he truly deserves as a conservationist and researcher. As a Director of the UC irvine Arboretum he was in charge of an immense bulb collection from most regions of the world he worked hard in maintaining and preserving. The purpose of such research collection was the conservation of hundreds (thousands?) of species. In particular the South African collection was really huge. Sadly, that fantastic project had to be discontinued due to budget problems but his foresight at that time is still to be properly known by the wide gardening public. That this extraordinary character and scientist is receiving an award for a hybrid narcissus sounds almost a joke. > Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 22:30:21 +0000 > From: ds429@comcast.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz > > > > Thank you, John. I am pleased that Harold and Kathy have received yet more recognition for their work. They are great bulb people! > > > > Best wishes, > > Dell > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Grimshaw" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Tuesday, March 29, 2011 5:15:04 PM > Subject: [pbs] RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz > > I thought people might like to know that PBS member Harold Koopowitz was > presented with the Ralph B White Memorial Medal this afternoon at the Royal > Horticultural Society's show in London. The presentation was made by RHS > President, Elizabeth Banks, and was for raising a miniature split-corona > daffodil called 'Itsy Bitsy Splitsy'. Not my cup of tea, but it was great to > see Harold's work with daffodils being recognized. > > Also receiving an award, in her case the Peter Barr Memorial Cup for > meritorious work with daffodils, was Kathryn Andersen from Pennsylvania - > Kathy is also well-known as a lily and Clivia enthusiast, and is quite > indomitable in pursuit of plants. > > There are pics (and much the same text) on my blog. > > John Grimshaw > > Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary > http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ > > Dr. John M. Grimshaw > Sycamore Cottage > Colesbourne > Cheltenham > Gloucestershire > GL53 9NP > > Tel. 01242 870567 > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Mar 29 20:13:13 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulb house so far Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 17:13:07 -0700 After growing bulbs in pots plunged in sand-filled cold frames for 20 years, last fall I removed them from the pots and planted them directly in raised beds in a large bulb house -- a commercial steel-frame greenhouse with a solid double-walled polycarbonate roof and sides covered in hardware cloth (metal mesh). This is on a property new to me, close to the Portland urban area, where I knew it would be a little warmer and (I thought) not quite so wet. It has been a LITTLE warmer, but every bit as wet -- today broke the historic record for rainfall here in the month of March. I didn't know how the bulbs would react after having been lifted in July and stored through August in paper bags in the basement of my country house. So far most of the plants seem to have survived the experience, though there may be a few losses, especially among Calochortus. I think Calochortus may "sulk" for a year after being moved, so perhaps I'll see the missing return next year. The orientation of the two 8 by 40-foot beds has worked well, with the more moisture-tolerant species planted in the bed into which the prevailing winds blow a little rain. I'm watering both sides these days from a large rainwater storage tank that is rapidly filled by the runoff from the bulb house roof. Even the desert species enjoy extra moisture at this time in their growth cycle. A few plants flowered before or after their expected dates, or are shorter than they were in the pots. Fritillaria eduardii, perhaps confused by its newly acquired deep root run, is trying to open its flowers right at ground level, but the first to bloom has elongated its stem and now looks normal. The other Imperialis section species didn't do this. Particularly pleasing is the appearance of the Corydalis species, which have sent their stems out horizontally through the pea gravel topdressing in a way that looks much more like photos of these plants in nature, than the potted specimens did. Today I noticed that some of the Regelia irises also seem to have run horizontally, one even reaching the concrete block wall of the bed before sending up a fan of leaves. The Biarum species already look more robust and I hope will eventually achieve the impressive floral size I've seen in the Mediterranean lands. Because I had to fit all 1200+ species into about 3/5 of the space I had in the frames, they are closely intermingled, though identified with permanent labels in the center of each species group. The result is getting a bit messy-looking, especially as the Crocus leaves elongate, but I don't think anything is going to object to having company. In nature most of these plants grow with grasses, shrubs, annuals, and other geophytes. Every day brings new flowers, including some blooming for me for the first time from seed. I can spend an hour or two a day out of the rain (though chilly) just observing them -- and trying to identify the "Fritillaria sp." and "Tulipa sp." items, a hopeless task without adequate keys. Some members of our NARGS chapter came over Sunday to see them, despite the cold wind that soon drove us into the house for hot tea. PBS members in the Portland area are of course welcome to visit too. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon 503-786-2579 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Mar 29 20:17:58 2011 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 17:16:10 -0700 Congratulations to Harold Koopowitz for this RHS honor -- whatever one may feel about split-corona daffodils, his many contributions to the botany of geophytes and orchids deserve every sort of praise. Congratulations also to Kathy Andersen, one of North America's greatest experts on the genus Narcissus. Jane McGary At 02:15 PM 3/29/2011, you wrote: >I thought people might like to know that PBS member Harold Koopowitz >was presented with the Ralph B White Memorial Medal this afternoon >at the Royal Horticultural Society's show in London. The >presentation was made by RHS President, Elizabeth Banks, and was for >raising a miniature split-corona daffodil called 'Itsy Bitsy >Splitsy'. Not my cup of tea, but it was great to see Harold's work >with daffodils being recognized. > >Also receiving an award, in her case the Peter Barr Memorial Cup for >meritorious work with daffodils, was Kathryn Andersen from >Pennsylvania - Kathy is also well-known as a lily and Clivia >enthusiast, and is quite indomitable in pursuit of plants. > >There are pics (and much the same text) on my blog. > >John Grimshaw > >Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary >http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Mar 29 21:03:08 2011 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: RHS Award for Harold Koopowitz (and Kathy Andersen) Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 18:03:02 -0700 And on top of all their awards and work in the field of geophytes, Harold and Kathy are really really nice people. Even though I'm a nobody and just grow bulbs as an enthusiast, both Harold and Kathy took the time to get to know me, ask me how I and my family and my bulbs are doing anytime we happen to see each other, and in Harold's case (because he also lives here in Southern California), have told me incredible plant stories, invited me to his house, shared with me some very rare or unusual bulbs, etc. But so far, like Mary Sue and others have described from their travels, it seems like every single bulb person I've met in person is really nice when you get to meet them and talk with them. In the past 16 months work has sent me down to South America multiple times, and with just a little bit of extra effort, I was able to meet Alberto, as well as Mariano Saviello of Argentina, Osmani Baullosa of Chile, and Mauro Peixoto of Brazil (along with Harri Lorenzi, not in PBS), and they were all treasures. I know there are bad apples even amongst plant people. But the vast majority seem to be really cool people. Kudos to Harold and Kathy! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 29, 2011, at 4:59 PM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Harold has not received the recognition he truly deserves as a conservationist and researcher. As a Director of the UC irvine Arboretum he was in charge of an immense bulb collection from most regions of the world he worked hard in maintaining and preserving. The purpose of such research collection was the conservation of hundreds (thousands?) of species. In particular the South African collection was really huge. > > Sadly, that fantastic project had to be discontinued due to budget problems but his foresight at that time is still to be properly known by the wide gardening public. > > That this extraordinary character and scientist is receiving an award for a hybrid narcissus sounds almost a joke. > >> >> >> Thank you, John. I am pleased that Harold and Kathy have received yet more recognition for their work. They are great bulb people! >> >> >> >> Best wishes, >> >> Dell >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "John Grimshaw" >> >> I thought people might like to know that PBS member Harold Koopowitz was >> presented with the Ralph B White Memorial Medal this afternoon at the Royal >> Horticultural Society's show in London. The presentation was made by RHS >> President, Elizabeth Banks, and was for raising a miniature split-corona >> daffodil called 'Itsy Bitsy Splitsy'. Not my cup of tea, but it was great to >> see Harold's work with daffodils being recognized. >> >> Also receiving an award, in her case the Peter Barr Memorial Cup for >> meritorious work with daffodils, was Kathryn Andersen from Pennsylvania - >> Kathy is also well-known as a lily and Clivia enthusiast, and is quite >> indomitable in pursuit of plants. >> From rherold@yahoo.com Tue Mar 29 21:09:29 2011 Message-Id: <4D9282C9.7020708@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Old IBS Number Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 21:09:29 -0400 I'm hoping that some 'old timer' out there may have saved a record of the IBS seed exchange list from 1997. Last year a friend shared with me a massonia labeled IBS 97-142. I know, so what, another massonia, but this one proved to be stubbornly evergreen, refusing to go dormant last summer. I'm wondering if it may be akin to the newly published M. sempervirens, as Aaron Floden described to the list. I have already asked Dell, who claimed ignorance and referred me to Shawn Pollard, who also was in the dark. There must be someone out there who keeps these lists! Hoping for enlightenment, --Roy NW of Boston, still frozen aside from snowdrops, eranthis, adonis and a dazzling show of Cyclamen coum. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue Mar 29 23:02:21 2011 Message-Id: <98F86F3A-C196-4C00-B3AB-E1DFC24F17C6@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Old IBS Number Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2011 20:02:16 -0700 I asked Google and it gave me this URL: which says that 97-142 is Massonia sp. #4. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a On Mar 29, 2011, at 6:09 PM, Roy Herold wrote: > I'm hoping that some 'old timer' out there may have saved a record of the IBS seed exchange list from 1997. > > Last year a friend shared with me a massonia labeled IBS 97-142. I know, so what, another massonia, but this one proved to be stubbornly evergreen, refusing to go dormant last summer. I'm wondering if it may be akin to the newly published M. sempervirens, as Aaron Floden described to the list. > > I have already asked Dell, who claimed ignorance and referred me to Shawn Pollard, who also was in the dark. > > There must be someone out there who keeps these lists! > > Hoping for enlightenment, > > --Roy > > NW of Boston, still frozen aside from snowdrops, eranthis, adonis and a dazzling show of Cyclamen coum. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rherold@yahoo.com Wed Mar 30 07:37:58 2011 Message-Id: <4D931613.2060603@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Old IBS Number Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:37:55 -0400 Lee Poulsen wrote: > I asked Google and it gave me this URL: which says that 97-142 is Massonia sp. #4. > Thanks, Lee. I should have tried that first. Next question: Did the IBS ever get material from Silverhill or from Summerfield for the seedex? Apparently both of these were sources for the original M. sempervirens, but were distributed under different names. --Roy From mmattus@charter.net Wed Mar 30 07:24:09 2011 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Old IBS Number Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:24:08 -0500 Harold (oh God, I hope I'm not an 'old-timer'!), I looked but only go back to the IBS 1998 ( and that's only in my Herbertia collection). On that note, does anyone know if the IBS is still active or planning to continue in the future? Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USA Zone 5b, where a foot of snow is expected tomorrow night. On 3/29/11 8:09 PM, "Roy Herold" wrote: > I'm hoping that some 'old timer' out there may have saved a record of > the IBS seed exchange list from 1997. > From jshields@indy.net Wed Mar 30 08:40:59 2011 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20110330083732.02bdfd90@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Old IBS Number Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 08:40:39 -0400 Matt, IBS is still operating, and HERBERTIA vol. 64 was just published. See: http://www.bulbsociety.org/ I thought I never deleted anything, but I don't seem to have those Seed Exchange lists anymore. Jim Shields At 07:24 AM 3/30/2011 -0500, you wrote: >........ On that note, >does anyone know if the IBS is still active or planning to continue in the >future? > >Matt Mattus >....... ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 From Santoury@aol.com Wed Mar 30 12:42:07 2011 Message-Id: <8CDBD108140F78E-970-5E70@Webmail-d106.sysops.aol.com> From: santoury@aol.com Subject: Arthropodium cirrhatum Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 12:41:51 -0400 Hello! To the person who sent me some of these seeds - I wanted to let you know that they are taking off! Approx 2 inches tall already. I wanted to thank you for your generosity in sharing these. Please write to me privately, to remind me where you got these. I like to name the country of origin, on my plants, when possible. Best, Jude From ds429@comcast.net Wed Mar 30 16:32:59 2011 Message-Id: <000001cbef19$abc3d530$034b7f90$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 269 Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:33:02 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 269" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/item) (cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jim Waddick: 1. Seed/fruit of Rohdea japonica 'Galle' - Narrow Leaf Form        This evergreen member of the lily family is MUCH hardier than most literature suggests. It stays evergreen here with temps well below 0F and has survived with leaf damage below -20 F. This is a form with long, narrow foliage. Flowers are insignificant, but ripe fruit is globe shaped, about the size of a large pea and bright orange-red.         Each fruit contains 1 to 4 seeds and are slow, but easy to germinate.   Fruits should be cleaned to expel large dark seeds and covered lightly with soil or mix. From Stephen Putman: 2. Seed of Hippeastrum aulicum stenopetalum From Arnold Trachtenberg: 3. Seed of Clivia miniata 'Vico Yellow' Very small supply. One seed per order @ $5.00/seed From Lynn Makela: 4. Bulbs of Habranthus 'Cherry Pink' 5. bulbs of Zephyranthes 'Apricot Queen' 6. Bulbs of Nothoscordum dialystemon 7. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes grandiflora 'Robert Dressler' 8. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes 'Pink Cloud' 9. Scaly Rhizomes 'Purple King' Thank you, Jim, Stephen, Arnold, and Lynn !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Mar 30 17:34:42 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum x Christopher Thunbergii - corrections? Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:34:33 -0500 >Bought this at Peckerwood Garden but can't find any info on >internet? Emailed PG but have not received a response yet. Pot tag >spelling is "Thundbergii" but their plant list spelling is >"Thunbergii". Dear Gail, Since no one has replied..... Nurseries can have notoriously bad tag at times although I'd expect better from your source. I , who know little about Crinum, can hazard a guess. You may have Crinum "Saint Christopher". This is hybrid between C. giganteum (C. jagus) x C. bulbispermum. C. bulbispermum was once known as C. longifolium as described by botanist Thunberg, often Latinized as Thunbergii. This is all according to the expert, the late Les Hannibal. If you Googlge "Crinum 'Saint Christopher' " you should find lots about it including pix to compare it in bloom. Good luck. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Mar 30 18:04:41 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Leucojum aestivum cvs.? Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 16:51:09 -0500 DearFreinds, I've grown L. aestivum for ages. I just noticed a first flower on bulbs purchased as 'Gravetye Giant'. I bought bulbs with this name specifically to compare it to the old unnamed variety grown and seeding around. I can see no difference. I understand that there is a cv with yellow spots replacing the green at the distal tips of each petal. Does such a cv exist ? and what is it called? Are there any other cultivars or un-name variants available in cultivation or from collectors? Both spring species (this and vernum) do very nicely here with a minimum of care so I am alwasy curious about variations on a these if it might suceed in my climate. So does anyone grow other spring flowering hardy Leucojum sp or cv? Thanks Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From pslate22@yahoo.com Wed Mar 30 17:52:47 2011 Message-Id: <442020.96078.qm@web111910.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: Wiki Addition Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 14:52:44 -0700 (PDT) Dear PBS, David Pilling has added a photo I submitted of bulblet formation on a leaf cutting of Lachenalia viridiflora that can be seen here:  http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LachenaliaSpeciesSeven  By enlarging the photo you'll see the entire measurement.  I also did this with L. rubida and will try others next season. Note the root formation.  There are eleven bulblets on this leaf cutting and the others are similar. Thank you, David. Pamela  Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From desertdenial@hotmail.com Wed Mar 30 18:00:03 2011 Message-Id: From: Denise Marie Ortiz Subject: Wiki Addition Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 15:55:00 -0600 That is very interesting. I had no idea you could start them from cuttings. Thaks for sharing the photo > Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 14:52:44 -0700 > From: pslate22@yahoo.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Wiki Addition > > Dear PBS, > David Pilling has added a photo I submitted of bulblet formation on a leaf > cutting of Lachenalia viridiflora that can be seen here: > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LachenaliaSpeciesSeven By enlarging > the photo you'll see the entire measurement. I also did this with L. rubida > and will try others next season. > > Note the root formation. There are eleven bulblets on this leaf cutting and the > others are similar. > > Thank you, David. > > Pamela > Pamela Slate > P.O. Box 5316 > Carefree AZ 85377 > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Wed Mar 30 18:44:33 2011 Message-Id: <1Q53sn-0lSJJA0@fwd23.t-online.de> From: Subject: Harry Hay Date: 30 Mar 2011 22:28 GMT Dear All, Harry Hay was one of the great English plantsmen of our time. He was a genius when it came to make difficult seeds germinate and it was very respect inspiring to see him grow so many difficult, rare and demanding plants in his garden. I vividly remember this immense pleasure in his face when he showed me his seed bench with some freshly germinating rarities: "isn't it always wonderful to see this?". I was introduced to him many years ago while I lived and worked in England and have met him and his wife several times. He was of such a friendly and generous attitide that I felt ashame not to have anything to offfer in return, at least at the beginning. Later I offered to share the most valuable seeds or plants with him because I knew that if somebody would be able to grow them it would be him. And he would distribute to like minded people without a hint of commercial thinking. Plantspeople all over the world seem to share this passion and generosity but I have always felt that English plantspeople are even more special in this way. This very special attitude has marked me deeply and I am very grateful to have met Harry Hay. I have always admired Harry Hay's knowledge (no need to look at a label) and also the sheer physical effort to keep up his private botanical garden, at the same time only knowing all too well that I would never be able to achieve such a state myself. For the future of his collection I have no information. But the very fact that he had distributed what he could lets me hope that most of his valuable plant material survives somewhere. I have to admit that by far not all the plants I got from him have survived in my hands but those that did carry a label with his name on it and are special plants....... Uli from Germany From arnold140@verizon.net Wed Mar 30 20:56:58 2011 Message-Id: <621510908.1417946.1301533013111.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: BX 249 # 18 Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 19:56:53 -0500 (CDT) Any ideas for the ID of this Lachenalia. It came from BX 249 # 18. Listed as mixed Lachenalia. http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6462.msg194676#msg194676 Arnold From kellyo@wetrock.com Wed Mar 30 23:02:56 2011 Message-Id: <4D938E13.4072.5BB3D53B@kellyo.wetrock.com> From: "Kelly O'Neill" Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2011 20:09:55 -0700 > ...Gnatrol, > but it sounds the same as Mary Sue's > product. To clarify, BT is Bacillus > thuringiensis var. israelensis. ... I agree the gnat larva can be a real problem and don't go away over time if the conditions suit them. I think most peat based soils come with them already living in them. Especially if the soil was in bags and sat around in storage anywhere for a while. I believe BT is a great solution. I know B. t. i. is recommended. Gnatrol may be the best. Instead I used a product called Thuricide which contained B. t. k. (where the k is something like kuraski) as it was more readily available to me. I think it works very well. It is not quick, so the H2O2 type ideas might be a good way to knock down a serious existing problem. A few days later, I'd start the BT approach. My unresearched approach: I think of the BT as a living critter that I need to get growing in the soil. Once I drench the soil it takes time for the BT to multiply until my soil is basically immune to the Gnats. Adult flies may continue to be present in small amounts but if they lay eggs, they are feeding the BT in the soil. If I have any unused moist soil sitting around, I give it a shot of the BT drench so the BT can start growing in the soil. I, of course, hit new plantings with some also. I try not to kill the BT with harsh chemicals or severe drought. In the always pretty warm conditions the Gnats thrive in, this seems to work well for me. BTW, I have not really noticed the Gnats to be a problem in unheated/unprotected outdoor containers in Western Oregon. Differences in nighttime/soil temperatures or other factors may be what is causing a difference of opinion on this list about how much of a problem the Gnats are. Kelly O'Neill http://www.bigbubblers.com and Big Bubble Magic(tm) at www.wetrock.com and Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm 2877 N 19th Street - Springfield, Oregon 97477 U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - from March thru Halloween) kellyo@wetrock.com - http://www.wetrock.com From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Thu Mar 31 02:31:56 2011 Message-Id: <33304245.26722.1301552662795.JavaMail.www@wwinf1f17> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Leucojum aestivum cvs.? Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 08:24:22 +0200 (CEST) Hello, I know that Gravetye Giant may take a couple of years for its extra large size and flowers to materialise. But saying that, they are not that much bigger than any other form, just enough to warrant cultivation. Re: yellow tips.This is surely a L.vernum form? This is called L.vernum var. 'Wagneri' variously. I have from Germany a form which is very good and stable called 'Eva Habermeyer'.I have never heard of a L.aestivum doing this trick. There are quite a few cultivars being selected of L. vernum and some being sold by Joe Sharman at Monksilver Plants in Cambridgeshire in the U.K. But in all honesty they are only botanical oddities and vary so little as yet from the species. The semi-double L. vernum 'Gretrude Weisser' is around.It is a north american selection. I am still waiting for a true and beautiful double form of either of these species. Kind regards, Mark > Message du 31/03/11 00:04 > De : "James Waddick" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" " I've grown L. aestivum for ages. I just noticed a first > flower on bulbs purchased as 'Gravetye Giant'. I bought bulbs with > this name specifically to compare it to the old unnamed variety grown > and seeding around. I can see no difference. > > I understand that there is a cv with yellow spots replacing > the green at the distal tips of each petal. Does such a cv exist ? > and what is it called? > > Are there any other cultivars or un-name variants available > in cultivation or from collectors?" > From ds429@comcast.net Thu Mar 31 07:19:14 2011 Message-Id: <000601cbef95$7c386f70$74a94e50$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 269 CLOSED - EXCEPT FOR THE CLIVIA SEEDS Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 07:19:21 -0400 From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Thu Mar 31 12:32:58 2011 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: Pacific BX 269 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:32:46 +0200 Hallo Dell I am very interested in seeds from Stephan Putman, Hippeastrum aulicum stenopetalum Thank you Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Dell Sherk Verzonden: woensdag 30 maart 2011 22:33 Aan: 'Pacific Bulb Society'; 'Mark Wilcox'; 'Roger Macfarlane' Onderwerp: [pbs] Pacific BX 269 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 269" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/item) (cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jim Waddick: 1. Seed/fruit of Rohdea japonica 'Galle' - Narrow Leaf Form        This evergreen member of the lily family is MUCH hardier than most literature suggests. It stays evergreen here with temps well below 0F and has survived with leaf damage below -20 F. This is a form with long, narrow foliage. Flowers are insignificant, but ripe fruit is globe shaped, about the size of a large pea and bright orange-red.         Each fruit contains 1 to 4 seeds and are slow, but easy to germinate.   Fruits should be cleaned to expel large dark seeds and covered lightly with soil or mix. From Stephen Putman: 2. Seed of Hippeastrum aulicum stenopetalum From Arnold Trachtenberg: 3. Seed of Clivia miniata 'Vico Yellow' Very small supply. One seed per order @ $5.00/seed From Lynn Makela: 4. Bulbs of Habranthus 'Cherry Pink' 5. bulbs of Zephyranthes 'Apricot Queen' 6. Bulbs of Nothoscordum dialystemon 7. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes grandiflora 'Robert Dressler' 8. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes 'Pink Cloud' 9. Scaly Rhizomes 'Purple King' Thank you, Jim, Stephen, Arnold, and Lynn !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 31 13:39:02 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Leucojum aestivum cvs.? Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 11:52:30 -0500 >I know that Gravetye Giant may take a couple of years for its extra >large size and flowers to materialise. >But saying that, they are not that much bigger than any other form, >just enough to warrant cultivation. Dear MArk, Thanks for your info. Apparently L. aestivum is pretty variable and 'Gravetye Giant' may be the common form in commerce - at least in the US. I'll check these more close with caliper in hand when they get into full bloom. > Re: yellow tips.This is surely a L.vernum form? This is >called L.vernum var. 'Wagneri' variously. I have from Germany a form >which is very good and stable called 'Eva Habermeyer'. John Grimshaw has explained this very well. Normally L. vernum has a single flower per stalk, but the name 'vagneri' has been applied to any plants with 2 flowers per stalk and with green spots. This is apparently fairly unstable and random and probably has no value as a cv or ssp name. However there have been some cvs named and introduced, but are in very modest cultivation. >The semi-double L. vernum 'Gretrude Weisser' is around.It is a north >american selection. >I am still waiting for a true and beautiful double form of either of >these species. Yes, I recently note a pic posted to the wiki of 'Gertrude Wister a multipetalled form - kind of messy to me. Until a few years ago, I was confused about the differences and variation in the two spring Leucojum species. I suggest a look at the wiki for some details. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Leucojum Apparently there are not true doubles of either of these species. again thanks for your info. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Thu Mar 31 13:31:28 2011 Message-Id: <410-220113431173124750@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: BX 249 # 18 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 13:31:24 -0400 L. liliflora. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 3/30/2011 8:57:08 PM > Subject: [pbs] BX 249 # 18 > > > Any ideas for the ID of this Lachenalia. It came from BX 249 # 18. Listed as mixed Lachenalia. > > http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6462.msg194676#msg194676 > > Arnold > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pslate22@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 13:50:14 2011 Message-Id: <259419.32015.qm@web111911.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: BX 249 # 18 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 10:50:11 -0700 (PDT) Arnold, It looks like L. splendid to me. Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 ________________________________ From: "arnold140@verizon.net" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wed, March 30, 2011 5:56:53 PM Subject: [pbs] BX 249 # 18 Any ideas for the ID of this Lachenalia.  It came from BX 249 # 18.  Listed as mixed Lachenalia. http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6462.msg194676#msg194676 Arnold From ds429@comcast.net Thu Mar 31 14:36:43 2011 Message-Id: <567747779.378246.1301596601293.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific BX 269 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:36:41 +0000 (UTC) I am sorry, but they are all claimed. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ton Wijnen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 12:32:46 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific BX 269 Hallo Dell I am very interested in seeds from Stephan Putman, Hippeastrum aulicum stenopetalum Thank you Ton Wijnen The Netherlands -----Oorspronkelijk bericht----- Van: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] Namens Dell Sherk Verzonden: woensdag 30 maart 2011 22:33 Aan: 'Pacific Bulb Society'; 'Mark Wilcox'; 'Roger Macfarlane' Onderwerp: [pbs] Pacific BX 269 Dear All,        The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared.   If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 269" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/item) (cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage.  PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS.     Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org ....          If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jim Waddick: 1. Seed/fruit of Rohdea japonica 'Galle' - Narrow Leaf Form        This evergreen member of the lily family is MUCH hardier than most literature suggests. It stays evergreen here with temps well below 0F and has survived with leaf damage below -20 F. This is a form with long, narrow foliage. Flowers are insignificant, but ripe fruit is globe shaped, about the size of a large pea and bright orange-red.         Each fruit contains 1 to 4 seeds and are slow, but easy to germinate.   Fruits should be cleaned to expel large dark seeds and covered lightly with soil or mix.  From Stephen Putman: 2. Seed of Hippeastrum aulicum stenopetalum From Arnold Trachtenberg: 3. Seed of Clivia miniata 'Vico Yellow' Very small supply. One seed per order @ $5.00/seed From Lynn Makela: 4. Bulbs of Habranthus 'Cherry Pink' 5. bulbs of Zephyranthes 'Apricot Queen' 6. Bulbs of Nothoscordum dialystemon 7. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes grandiflora 'Robert Dressler' 8. Scaly rhizomes of Achimenes 'Pink Cloud' 9. Scaly Rhizomes 'Purple King' Thank you, Jim, Stephen, Arnold, and Lynn !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From oothal@hotmail.com Thu Mar 31 18:32:11 2011 Message-Id: From: Justin Smith Subject: Looking for seed of Lilium catesbaei Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:27:10 -0500 Hi All, Though it is certainly not time for ripe seed thought I might try and get see if I cold line up some seed from this fall's crop. Justin Woodville, TX 8b/9a From msittner@mcn.org Thu Mar 31 18:56:24 2011 Message-Id: <20110331225623.066404C0AF@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Lachenalia ID was BX 249 # 18 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 15:55:47 -0700 Arnold, You need to tell people about the leaves since that is one of the first distinctive features. One or two or more. The next feature to look for is whether the flowers are sessile or subsessile or have long pedicels, that is are the flowers attached to the stem directly, or with a very short or longer flower stalk. After that you need to know the size of the flowers (under 18 mm) or 20 to 35 mm. Finally you need to say if the stamens are well exserted or included or shortly exserted. There are a lot of species so all of these features help you figure it out. The Color Encyclopedia of Cape Bulbs says that the stamens on L. liliflora are included even though the photo in Graham Duncan's book shows them shortly exserted. Yours looks much more exserted to me. Other pictures that are supposed to be of this species show a huge range of how exserted they look however. L. splendida, Pam's guess has two lanceolate leaves, bell shaped flowers that are sessile (no flower stalk), and anthers exserted. Perianth is 9 to 11 mm. You can't tell size from a picture. Flowers are pale blue and bright lilac with greenish brown markings. I've tried to key out species I've grown from unidentified Lachenalia seed and sometimes nothing quite fits. There is the possibility always that what you have is a hybrid if it is grown from seed collected when many were in bloom at the same time. Regardless, it is a very pretty flower. Mary Sue From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu Mar 31 19:20:56 2011 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Fungus Gnats Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 16:20:38 -0700 On Mar 30, 2011, at 8:09 PM, Kelly O'Neill wrote: > I believe BT is a great solution. I know B. t. i. is recommended. Gnatrol may be > the best. Instead I used a product called Thuricide which contained B. t. k. > (where the k is something like kuraski) as it was more readily available to me. I > think it works very well. It is not quick, so the H2O2 type ideas might be a good > way to knock down a serious existing problem. A few days later, I'd start the BT > approach. > My unresearched approach: I think of the BT as a living critter that I need to > get growing in the soil. Once I drench the soil it takes time for the BT to multiply > until my soil is basically immune to the Gnats. Adult flies may continue to be > present in small amounts but if they lay eggs, they are feeding the BT in the soil. > If I have any unused moist soil sitting around, I give it a shot of the BT drench so > the BT can start growing in the soil. I, of course, hit new plantings with some > also. I try not to kill the BT with harsh chemicals or severe drought. In the always > pretty warm conditions the Gnats thrive in, this seems to work well for me. I read Kelly's email yesterday, and then almost in answer to her comment about her unresearched approach, I saw the following excerpt in HortIdeas today. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Bacillus thuringiensis That Works Again and Again and ... The following is excerpted from “Getting Closer to Better Biocontrol for Garden Pests,” by Dennis O’Brien, first published in the March 2011 issue of Agricultural Research, from the U.S.D.A.’s Agricultural Research Service (ARS). ARS scientists are moving closer to developing an environmentally friendly bacteria-based biocontrol agent that offers long-lasting protection against caterpillars and other pests in a garden or cultivated field. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is now used to control gypsy moths, tent caterpillars, leaf rollers, canker worms, and other pests that attack garden plants, corn, and other crops. But the commonly used strain, B. thuringiensis kurstaki, doesn’t survive more than one generation. After an initial round of pests is killed, the biocontrol dies out and the pests return. Michael Blackburn [phone 301-504-9396], an entomologist at the Invasive Insect Biocontrol and Behavior Laboratory in Beltsville, Maryland, has been searching among the 3,500 characterized Bt strains in the ARS Beltsville Bacterial Collection for a strain that will not only kill an initial generation of pests, but will also survive to kill later generations. Blackburn and his colleagues are classifying strains in the collection based on the compounds the bacteria metabolize and produce. As part of that effort, they tested 50 strains of Bt known to be toxic to gypsy moths, including kurstaki, and found that they could be divided into two groups: those that produce an enzyme called “urease” and those that don’t. They fed the 50 strains to gypsy moth larvae, and when those caterpillars died, they ground them up and applied them to pellets of artificial diet. Then they fed the pellets to another cycle of caterpillars. The researchers looked at survival rates of the bacteria over several generations of caterpillars and found that the urease-producing phenotypes survived better when repeatedly fed to gypsy moths.... The results, published in Biological Control, bring scientists a step closer to finding a Bt strain that will be more effective at combating gypsy moths and possibly other insect pests. The efforts should also lead to the discovery of Bt strains with other desirable traits, such as the ability to grow on mulch, multiply on specific crops, or thrive in gardens and other sites favored by a targeted pest. From warren_keller@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 19:34:30 2011 Message-Id: <14442.57525.qm@web84412.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> From: Warren Keller Subject: Haemathus D. and Haemanthus crispus Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 16:34:29 -0700 (PDT) Hi there, i have 4 haemanthus deformis left and about 10 of Haemanthus crispus very large bulbs, just got in the garden today, finally some sun from all the rain, and now am shipping my orders. Just looking to trade for massonia, any variety, please email me if you have any questions, looking for good sized bulbs of massonia, thank you Warren From warren_keller@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 20:06:34 2011 Message-Id: <105164.7688.qm@web84405.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> From: Warren Keller Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:06:33 -0700 (PDT) anyone have this available? to buy or trade? please let me know From meneice@att.net Thu Mar 31 20:24:54 2011 Message-Id: <2D301C45A18644D1B54091EC14DB5ECD@DF5XS5C1> From: Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:24:51 -0700 Try Annie's Annuals and Perennials 801 Chesley Ave. Richmond, CA 94801 anniesannuals.com They are very knowledgeable and seem to be getting deep into rare and unusual Impatiens. From arnold140@verizon.net Thu Mar 31 20:26:58 2011 Message-Id: <1562221685.1499757.1301617732079.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Lachenalia Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 19:28:51 -0500 (CDT) Mark: Thanks, just received a note from Maggi Young on the SRGC saying the same thing. Arnold Mar 31, 2011 01:31:34 PM, pbs@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: L. liliflora. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a > [Original Message] > From: > To: > Date: 3/30/2011 8:57:08 PM > Subject: [pbs] BX 249 # 18 > > > Any ideas for the ID of this Lachenalia. It came from BX 249 # 18. Listed as mixed Lachenalia. > > http://www.srgc.org.uk/smf/index.php?topic=6462.msg194676#msg194676 > > Arnold > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From warren_keller@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 20:34:16 2011 Message-Id: <1372018652-1301618053-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-524591645-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 00:33:51 +0000 I tried but you have to visit the nursery in person. And I live quite a long way away Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:24:51 To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae Try Annie's Annuals and Perennials 801 Chesley Ave. Richmond, CA 94801 anniesannuals.com They are very knowledgeable and seem to be getting deep into rare and unusual Impatiens. From meneice@att.net Thu Mar 31 20:45:24 2011 Message-Id: <03ADF4BDDE2B4F20B4568A6FB298183B@DF5XS5C1> From: Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 17:45:21 -0700 OK. Then, if it isn't too much trouble, try writing them at the nursery at 740 Market Ave., Richmond, CA 94801. Explain how far away you live and beg a little. You really, really want this Impatiens and why. It can't hurt and might work. From hornig@earthlink.net Thu Mar 31 20:55:24 2011 Message-Id: <30660172.1301619323276.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:55:22 -0400 (GMT-04:00) As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice (below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business (people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a stranger. Just my two cents' worth - Ellen -----Original Message----- >From: meneice@att.net >Sent: Mar 31, 2011 8:45 PM >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae > >OK. Then, if it isn't too much trouble, try writing them at the nursery at >740 Market Ave., Richmond, CA 94801. Explain how far away you live and beg >a little. You really, really want this Impatiens and why. It can't hurt >and might work. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Ellen Hornig 3712 Co. Rt. 57 Oswego NY 13126 Phone: 315-342-5573 From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Thu Mar 31 21:18:00 2011 Message-Id: From: Chad Schroter Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:07:42 -0700 Annies only ships 4" pots, the boxes for shipping are very size specific with compartments for each pot(and a very cool design), the site says this is a one time per year only item available in gallon pots etc. And is NOT currently available.... you really need a good friend in the area to get one for you When They Become Available... Chad -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 5:55 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice (below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business (people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a stranger. Just my two cents' worth - Ellen -----Original Message----- >From: meneice@att.net >Sent: Mar 31, 2011 8:45 PM >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae > >OK. Then, if it isn't too much trouble, try writing them at the nursery at >740 Market Ave., Richmond, CA 94801. Explain how far away you live and beg >a little. You really, really want this Impatiens and why. It can't hurt >and might work. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Ellen Hornig 3712 Co. Rt. 57 Oswego NY 13126 Phone: 315-342-5573 PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From warren_keller@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 21:21:57 2011 Message-Id: <626377400-1301620911-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-83585459-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 01:21:49 +0000 I do need a good friend, anyone available? Lol. I really would like to grow these. I have the perfect spot for them. And it doesn't get too hot here in the summer. Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: Chad Schroter Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:07:42 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae Annies only ships 4" pots, the boxes for shipping are very size specific with compartments for each pot(and a very cool design), the site says this is a one time per year only item available in gallon pots etc. And is NOT currently available.... you really need a good friend in the area to get one for you When They Become Available... Chad -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 5:55 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice (below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business (people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a stranger. Just my two cents' worth - Ellen -----Original Message----- >From: meneice@att.net >Sent: Mar 31, 2011 8:45 PM >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae > >OK. Then, if it isn't too much trouble, try writing them at the nursery at >740 Market Ave., Richmond, CA 94801. Explain how far away you live and beg >a little. You really, really want this Impatiens and why. It can't hurt >and might work. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Ellen Hornig 3712 Co. Rt. 57 Oswego NY 13126 Phone: 315-342-5573 PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From joshy46013@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 21:25:33 2011 Message-Id: <339074.92054.qm@web121702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Josh Young Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 18:25:31 -0700 (PDT) I always assume the lovers of plants whether nursery owners or not love to help others in their quest of finding species they're adamantly searching; I'm sure at one point or another we all were at the point of a building collection. I know it's rewarding when I can help a fellow enthusiast find something they're interested in that they haven't been able to acquire before. When I buy from suppliers I've never had a "large" order, most of us are hobbyists and I've yet to find a retailer that I could spend countless amounts of money on an infinite amount of plants that I'm interested in *maybe excluding Jim Shields :) *, I guess the way I feel is that whether I'm considered "thrify" or not I would assume that my service is just as valuable. Annie's Annuals may not like to sell large scale mail-order as it can be troublesome but a small order here and there wouldn't be a hassle where as others may disagree, I don't think it ever hurts to ask, especially if you're offering to pay! Josh ________________________________ From: Ellen Hornig To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, March 31, 2011 8:55:22 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice (below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business (people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a stranger. Just my two cents' worth - Ellen -----Original Message----- >From: meneice@att.net >Sent: Mar 31, 2011 8:45 PM >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Subject: Re: [pbs] Impatiens flanaganae > >OK. Then, if it isn't too much trouble, try writing them at the nursery at >740 Market Ave., Richmond, CA 94801. Explain how far away you live and beg >a little. You really, really want this Impatiens and why. It can't hurt >and might work. From hansennursery@coosnet.com Thu Mar 31 22:03:49 2011 Message-Id: <8A7C692BA62549FDB156BEE4AD2197B8@homed4aec9b2d8> From: "Robin Hansen" Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 19:03:36 -0700 As a small retail mail order nursery for some 20 years, I have to say the Ellen has a good take on what nurseries are about. I have given a lot of thought to what, when and how I ship, because I have serious limits. And yes, I think about options, but I'm constrained by several factors, including size, cost of shipping, ease of growing, etc. We all have limits and we've learned to set them firmly in order to stay in business and, at the same time, have a life. I really don't do much trading as I find that not everyone understands the condition a plant has to be in to survive a trade, i.e. have roots, tolerate some desiccation, and so on. That said, a plea for a particular plant reverbrates pretty far and wide and I think most of us will succeed in acquiring what we lust for, if we have some patience, and keep letting folks know what we desperately want. Been there... and achieved my heart's desire - just took time! Good luck, Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery From hornig@earthlink.net Thu Mar 31 22:08:41 2011 Message-Id: <1E0C2710F96A4DB6BE6C5C2669DBC34B@ellenPC> From: "Ellen Hornig" Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 22:08:51 -0400 In response to Josh: I knew I'd sound like a curmudgeon when I wrote what I did. Of course (I hope!) nursery owners love plants. But "loving to help other people in their quests" stretches the truth a bit. There's still a bottom line, labor is almost always in short supply, profit margins are always tight. That's why nurseries standardize their pot and box sizes, have minimum orders or minimum shipping costs, and things like that. Activitiers outside those established boundaries cost real resources. You can't be everyone's friend or buddy. As in other walks of life, you choose your own friends. Not everyone who wants favors from you is your friend. Trust me, I spend many happy hours trading plants and seeds with several people I've never met, but to whom I've taken a liking. I don't keep track of the trades - they don't have to balance - they're just people whose enthusiasm I truly do enjoy. Some are people I'm trying to help get into business, some are old friends, some are strangers. The essential thing is that it's my choice to send them things. The contrasting case would be, e.g., the perfect stranger who wrote recently because I was mentioned in Martha Stewart Living as a source of the author's info about some cultivars of Convallaria majalis and a RETIRED nursery owner; this person wrote that she saw on the website that the nursery was closed, but could I just send her a few of each of the selections I grew, for the garden she was putting in at her new house? Answer: no. What I was tempted to add is "what is it about "closed" that you don't understand?" Bottom line: being "wanty/needy" isn't the same as being driven by a true passion for plants. Over the years, I have probably gained appreciation for the latter, but I sure as heck have lost my patience with the former. :-) Ellen Ellen Hornig Oswego NY 13126 USA USDA zone 5b From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Mar 31 22:53:38 2011 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Was- Impatiens flanaganae, now PBS "etiquette" Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:53:30 -0500 >As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice >(below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how >they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to >ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! >Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest >is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. >I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little >surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business >(people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had >been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one >more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of >friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a >stranger. > >Just my two cents' worth - Dear Ellen, You have obliquely and politely hit on a sore point of mine. Warren, I do not mean to pick on you, but you started a series of messages that began even more messages to PBS that ask to trade, offer to sell, whatever without contributing information about your self (where do you garden, what state or zone), information about the plants you offer and obviously haven't noticed recent posts about this very exact species. This is topped by a series of well meaning replies that really should have been private replies and not of much use or informative to the group as a whole. Mary Sue has politely asked that members restrict commercial notes to a minimum. PBS is an educational group meant to inform its members not just sell or trade. Even our well organized Seed Ex/Bulb Ex has strict limits on announcements and Dell politely replies to request that should have been private as he emphasizes in every message. I suppose it is the old adage that honey attracts more than vinegar. If you want to ask for something specific put the question in a sweeter context; request general information or share your own understanding of the topic or just be more forth coming. My PBS etiquette suggestions I think that every message to PBS should identify themselves as to gardening location because it adds so much to the question. Where is 'here' ? All my messages include a very detailed 'Signature Block" that makes it infinitely easy to goggle right to my back yard. Messages should have some sharing of personal experience and exchange of information. Sort of status report that leads to your question, request or plea. And as Ellen put it "Favors are something you ask of friends". Personally I rarely reply to a stranger who asks for something without providing much incentive. (although I did reply to Gail on her very first posting to PBS). First-time 'posters' or new members ought to identify them selves in their first post. Tell a little something about your favorite bulbous plants, where you garden, how you got started, Do you sell or trade or have an open garden... all those things you'd tell a new friend. These are not meant to be "RULES" or even vague suggestions, more like common courtesy and friendly associations. Give a little, get a little. And again my apology to Warreen, who I really know so little about, but this has been stewing for a while and Ellen really is responsible for starting this posting. So, good luck, trying to locate Impatiens flanaganae. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From warren_keller@yahoo.com Thu Mar 31 22:58:06 2011 Message-Id: <1990893897-1301626682-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-174617777-@bda2439.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> From: "Warren Keller" Subject: Was- Impatiens flanaganae, now PBS "etiquette" Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 02:58:00 +0000 Well I am from california. And what I have to offer are very large mature bulbs of haemanthus deformis and haemanthus crispus. Coming from my own collection of these bulbs and I would love an impatiens flanagane as I believe in protecting or at least keeping the species going (anything that is endangered) to me they all need a chance to be saved and to be made more of per say, they have us to do that for them and keep them going and not to see them all just died off one day. We can all make a difference and help endangered species become well, un endangered. Warren Sent on the Sprint® Now Network from my BlackBerry® -----Original Message----- From: James Waddick Sender: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:53:30 To: Pacific Bulb Society Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Was- Impatiens flanaganae, now PBS "etiquette" >As an ex-nursery-owner, I have to remark that this is poor advice >(below). Nursery owners are entitled to have their own view of how >they want to conduct business. If this nursery has decided not to >ship, it probably isn't just that they haven't thought of it! >Respect their boundaries - don't beg. The one "in" I might suggest >is that if you have something they really want you can offer that. >I never thought of myself as a mean person, but I was a little >surprised by the people who wrote after I closed the business >(people who had either never been customers or, if they had, had >been very - um - thrifty ones) and begged me to find them just one >more of this and that. Favors are something you ask of >friends...don't expect businesses to do them for you if you're a >stranger. > >Just my two cents' worth - Dear Ellen, You have obliquely and politely hit on a sore point of mine. Warren, I do not mean to pick on you, but you started a series of messages that began even more messages to PBS that ask to trade, offer to sell, whatever without contributing information about your self (where do you garden, what state or zone), information about the plants you offer and obviously haven't noticed recent posts about this very exact species. This is topped by a series of well meaning replies that really should have been private replies and not of much use or informative to the group as a whole. Mary Sue has politely asked that members restrict commercial notes to a minimum. PBS is an educational group meant to inform its members not just sell or trade. Even our well organized Seed Ex/Bulb Ex has strict limits on announcements and Dell politely replies to request that should have been private as he emphasizes in every message. I suppose it is the old adage that honey attracts more than vinegar. If you want to ask for something specific put the question in a sweeter context; request general information or share your own understanding of the topic or just be more forth coming. My PBS etiquette suggestions I think that every message to PBS should identify themselves as to gardening location because it adds so much to the question. Where is 'here' ? All my messages include a very detailed 'Signature Block" that makes it infinitely easy to goggle right to my back yard. Messages should have some sharing of personal experience and exchange of information. Sort of status report that leads to your question, request or plea. And as Ellen put it "Favors are something you ask of friends". Personally I rarely reply to a stranger who asks for something without providing much incentive. (although I did reply to Gail on her very first posting to PBS). First-time 'posters' or new members ought to identify them selves in their first post. Tell a little something about your favorite bulbous plants, where you garden, how you got started, Do you sell or trade or have an open garden... all those things you'd tell a new friend. These are not meant to be "RULES" or even vague suggestions, more like common courtesy and friendly associations. Give a little, get a little. And again my apology to Warreen, who I really know so little about, but this has been stewing for a while and Ellen really is responsible for starting this posting. So, good luck, trying to locate Impatiens flanaganae. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu Mar 31 23:47:41 2011 Message-Id: From: Max Withers Subject: Lachenalia ID was BX 249 # 18 Date: Thu, 31 Mar 2011 20:47:40 -0700 My first thought was also L. liliflora, but as Mary Sue notes Arnold's stamens seem more exserted than the plants I grow under that name, which came from Telos. Mine are also very late bloomers, not even showing a spike yet. Some pictures for comparison: http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=48600109944@N01&q=lachenalia (LL quadricolor and orchidoides are in there too, turns out I have been spelling liliflora with an unreliable number of "i"s) Best, Max Withers Oakland CA