sowing Morea seeds

Bulborum Botanicum
Thu, 24 Nov 2011 06:04:39 PST
Sounds good David

I have a look if I can find the book

The best catalogue I found was for perennial seeds
from jelitto perennial seeds
they make 20 different germinating styles
This would be a good system for all plants

Maybe an Idea to make something at the PBS
every plant get a number corresponding with the way it germinates
For example in the wiki on top of a family


Here the text from  seeds

   *General remarks:* Never put the sowing into a freezer with temperatures
   below -5°C [23°F]! The expansion of the freezing water in the seed cells is
   too rapid. The cell membrane can not tolerate the pressure compensation.
   The cell wall would be destroyed and the seed would die. Rapid drops in
   temperature below the freezing point do not occur naturally. A normal, slow
   rise in pressure can be tolerated by the cell membrane, its permeability
   taking care of an osmotic equalization of pressure. It is possible to use a
   refrigerator with a temperature of about 0°C [32°F] to create an artificial
   freezing period. Since it is usually not possible to put the seed trays
   into a refrigerator, you can mix the seed with moist sand. It should be put
   into a plastic bag and placed into the refrigerator after the required warm
   period. The sand must be kept constantly moist. After the required cooling
   period sow the sand with the seed into seed trays and leave at required

    *Copying or reprinting these sowing directions, even in excerpts, is
   not permitted. *These directions should only be used for the sowing of
   seeds supplied by us. Other uses, e. g. for teaching, are only authorized
   by our permission in writing.

   1. Cold-germinaters are still referred to as frost-germinaters, although
   this isn't quite correct. The sowing must be kept warm (about +18 to 22°C)
   [about 64 to 72°F] and moist for the first 2-4 weeks. After this period the
   sowing must be kept at a cold temperature (between -4 and +4°C) [between 25
   and 39°F] for another 4-6 weeks. Colder temperatures of -5°C [23°F] are
   only advantageous for most species of the Ranunculus family. It is not so
   important if the temperature is higher or lower during the cooling period,
   but the cooling period has to be prolonged because the synthesis of the
   germination inducer, hormonlike acid, slows down or comes to a standstill.
   It is beneficial to cover the sowing with snow during the cooling-period.
   The temperature below it usually keeps in the optimum range of -4 to 0°C
   [25 to 32°F]. The sowing is kept moist, and the melting snow helps to
   destroy the shell, which is advantageous for the germinating seedling.
   After this cooling-period the sowing may not be immediately exposed to high
   temperatures. The most effective temperatures are between +5 to 12°C [41 to
   54°F], even if germination has started. The best location for this sowing,
   even in March, April and May, is the open field, the cold frame or a cold

   2. Most species of the Ranunculus-family need lower temperatures during
   the cooling-period - about -5°C [23°F]. In other respects follow the
   directions in 1. above. The reason is probably the freezing point of these
   seeds, which is at -7°C [19°F], while most other seeds freeze at -5°C

   3. These species usually show excellent results if sown soon after the
   harvest, although most of them only germinate in spring after the effect of
   winter. For best results please order seeds in time.

   4. These are very tiny seeds which should be mixed with finest sand or
   talcum for an even sowing. Do not cover with compost, only press them in
   gently. Irrigate from the bottom or with a hand-sprayer, so that the seeds
   will not be washed away.

   5. The directions of 1. do not always show the best results. After the
   cooling-period some species need a longer time until germination starts. As
   some seeds do not germinate until the next year, it is important not to
   throw away the seed boxes too early.

   6. These seeds germinate extremely late, sometimes it takes one year or
   longer before germination starts. To best utilize space and avoid drying
   out, this seed must be "stratified" (placed in layers of wet sand -
   alternately a thin layer of seeds and a layer of well-moistened sand,
   etc.). The stratification boxes have to be kept in the shade to benefit
   from weather effects - especially winter. A fine wire mesh will protect
   them from mice and birds. Nurseries have found that concrete boxes are
   useful for large amounts of seed. In spring frequently check to see if
   germination has begun. When germination has started, the seeds must be sown
   immediately in the prepared bed with the moist sand.

   7. These seeds must be covered with a layer seed kernel diameter. Keep
   daytime temperatures at approximately +20°C [68°F], and keep the moisture
   constant, for Cyclamen, however, +18°C [64°F] is recommended. The seeds
   must be kept in the light and moderately warm after germination.

   8. These perennial seeds germinate very irregularly over a long period.
   Lower temperatures of less than +5°C [41°F] are very effective. Seed trays
   should not be discarded prematurely. Constant moisture must be maintained.
   Do not leave in direct sunlight. For Alstroemeria we recommend to keep
   sowing for 3 weeks at approximately +30°C [86°F], then 3 weeks at +5°C
   [41°F], then at +21°C [70°F].

   9. These seeds germinate rapidly depending on species and origin. If
   germination does not occur after 3-4 weeks a cooling period of 2-4 weeks is

   10. For these bigger hard-shelled seeds, mechanical damaging of the
   shell is helpful for quicker swelling. One method is to grind the seed in
   dry sharp sand. They can also be treated for several hours in a "softener"
   (Polyethylenglycol 6000), which is used for the production of plastic

   11. Opuntias germinate more effectively the second year after harvest.
   Fresh seed often lies in the ground for about a year before germination.

   12. No cooling-period is necessary, but these seeds usually need several
   months until complete germination.

   13. Allow these large seeds to swell up in water for 2-3 days. If a
   "softener" is used only soak for a maximum of one day. After that cut off a
   thin slice of the seed close to the germcone so that the embryo is almost
   bare. Place seed with the cut facing up in a moist seed compost e. g.
   Vermiculite. This must be covered thightly with glass, a good interval from
   the seeds. The rising air pressure, at temperatures of about +22°C [72°F],
   accelerates the germination.

   14. A warm period of +25 to 30°C [77 to 86°F] and moist conditions after
   sowing for about 4-5 weeks neutralizes the germination inhibition. The
   phytohormones which inhibit germination will then break down. At this point
   the sowing needs very cool conditions, approximately +2°C [36°F]. Initial
   germination lasts for about 80 days under these conditions. During this
   period keep in dark cold storage chamber. Then temperature and lighting
   must be increased gradually.

   15. Rapidly germinating, keep seed in constant moisture (not wet) with
   temperatures of about +20°C [68°F]. Seeds must be covered thinly. Do not
   cover very small seeds, but tightly press into the earth. Keep in cooler
   conditions after germination occurs.

   16. See 15 with the exception of germination being slower and more
   irregular. This poses no problems.

   17. Waterplants must be sown in waterproof plastic trays or similar
   containers containing a nutritious muddy compost. Fill water up to 1 cm
   over the top of the compost. Keep the trays at warm temperatures of
   approximately +22°C [72°F].

   18. See 17. Allow the seed trays to be left for only 2-4 weeks at warm
   temperatures, then keep at 0°C [32°F] for another 4-6 weeks. It does not
   matter if the water freezes. After this treatment allow temperature to rise

   19. To stop the germination inhibition give seeds a warm compost (about
   22°C) [about 72°F] with constant humidity for at least 6 weeks. Then keep
   cold (-4 to +4°C) [25 to 39°F] for 6-8 weeks. Usually, the germination
   starts at +4°C [39°F]. Raise temperatures gradually up to +10°C [50°F]
   until germination is completed. If the warm or cold period was not long
   enough the seeds will not germinate until the following year. They will
   then need another warm period (summer) and a cold period (winter).
   Well-known examples: Cimicifuga and Helleborus.

   20. To obtain best germination results, seeds need temperatures of +22°C
   [72°F] or more. Moderate, but constant humidity is very important. Gunnera,
   however, prefers very moist (not wet) and warm (+24 to 30°C) [75 to 86°F]

2011/11/24 David Nicholson <>

> Roland wrote:-
> >SNIP> Does there a list exist from African bulbs germinating tips ??<SNIP>
> Don't know about a list but if you can get hold of a copy there's a very
> useful book_
> "Growing Bulbs Indoors" by Peter J M Knippels
> Published A A Balkema/Rotterdam/Brookfield 1999
> In English. With lots of cultural advice on many of the South American and
> South African species including details on summer/winter growers. I've
> found
> it very useful indeed.
> David Nicholson
> in Devon, UK Zone 9 (allegedly!)
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list

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