From randysgarden@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: A convict story that will fascinate some of you ! Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:16:27 -0800 Lovely story, thank you for sharing. Randy On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 6:08 PM, steven hart < hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com> wrote: > The language debacle sparked this memory ; ) > > It was Mar that helped inspire my love for beautiful lily bulbs : ) > > Steven Hart Esk Queensland Australia > From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1328077331.25619.YahooMailClassic@web181014.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:22:11 -0800 (PST) I've had problems this year with algae and moss infesting the top layer of my outdoor seedling pots and trays, which seems to be detrimental to some of the seedlings.  I am tediously removing the infested layer and replacing with clean DG, as pictured here (one row remaining.)   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6799839455/in/photostream   I am afraid an algae/moss inhibitor also harm the seedlings.  I have not had this problem in previous years.  We've actually been quite dry after an early wet season in October and November.   Any suggestions?   Ken Blackford San Diego, California  USDA zone 10 From zigur@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 22:33:34 -0800 Lose the organics? You didn't mention the mix you use. T > I am afraid an algae/moss inhibitor also harm the seedlings. I have not had this problem in previous years. We've actually been quite dry after an early wet season in October and November. Any suggestions? From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 23:15:36 -0800 Hi Ken, Here in northern CA, our winters are wet and cool and the perfect conditions for growing moss. I have the moss issue every year. My strategy is to ignore the moss unless it gets too thick. When it's too thick, I just pull off the moss, along with the top layer of media that the moss "roots" are attached to. Then I replace with fresh media. This works for about a year. The next year the moss comes back in full force. The only way to keep the plants moss-free is to repot with fresh medium every 2 years. Here are two photo of a very mossy pot. You are right that if the moss is allowed to get too thick, the seedlings will suffer and in many cases get snuffed out and die. Irids and others deal with this fine but Lachenalia suffer the most. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6607688765/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6607688199/ Nhu Berkeley, CA On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 10:22 PM, Ken wrote: > I've had problems this year with algae and moss infesting the top layer of > my outdoor seedling pots and trays, which seems to be detrimental to some > of the seedlings. > From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 01 Feb 2012 03:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <29281115.46641.1328085685843.JavaMail.www@wwinf1f19> From: Mark BROWN Subject: pbs] Galanthus for warm climates Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:41:25 +0100 (CET) G. fosteri 'Scented Form' is a great improvement and has made an interesting parent for a few hybrids here too. I would heartily recommend this cultivar. It does not produce all those shy flowering offsets. Just bulikng up slowly and steadily as any good snowdrop should. If one was to let it seed freely it would most likely naturalise. It is always good to start with a good clone of a species. I see that someone on the SRGC forum recommends G. ikariae. This grows in very wet places that dry up later. It does seed very nicely and true in the G. i. 'Walter Butt' cultivar. I have a great patch of this and can give seed from the local garden where it grows in isolation and in number! Mark > Message du 01/02/12 00:16 > De : "Jim McKenney" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] pbs] Galanthus for warm climates > > Is Galanthus fosteri worth having? The plant I had/have was rather nondescript and more or less reminded me of some of the back numbers of garden snowdrops. Are there good, distinctive forms worth having?  > > Jim McKenney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tom@evolution-plants.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Galanthus suggestions for S. California Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 10:07:57 +0000 Apologies if these suggestions have already been made - I haven't read the entire thread. I think that the autumn-flowering G. peshmenii would work very well. It grows near sea level in a small region of the eastern Mediterranean, with hot dry summers and some winter rainfall. It is amazingly cold hardy in the UK but resents too much water during the dormant season and does better for me in a pot. In fact the best Galanthus for a pot with me. Easier to obtain would be G. reginae-olgae subs. vernalis, some forms of which occur in similar habitat, though with much more winter rainfall. A third possibility, from a similar habitat, would be G. cilicicus from lowish altitudes in the Taurus Mountains. This is a rare plant in cultivation (and in the wild) however. My few young plants were grown from seed and have not yet flowered. Finally, G. rizehensis occurs near sea level along the SE shores of the Black Sea. Again much more rainfall than S California but worth a try. Tom > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 06:06:45 -0800 > From: Harold Koopowitz > Subject: Re: [pbs] pbs] Galanthus nivallis > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <201201311406.q0VE6g8M002063@esmtp1.es.uci.edu> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > And I am still looking for a Galanthus that will grow in Southern California. > Harold > > At 09:46 PM 1/30/2012, you wrote: >> The late Wayne Roderick once showed me a garden in Orinda, CA, where >> Galanthus elwesii was thoroughly naturalised and even 'escaping' to the >> roadside. As I recall, Orinda is on the very edge of the fog belt. >> >> I think that G. elwesii, with its origins in Mediterranean conditions, would >> be a better bet in the Bay Area than G. nivalis from central Europe. >> >> John Grimshaw >> >> Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary >> http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ >> >> Dr. John M. Grimshaw >> Sycamore Cottage >> Colesbourne >> Cheltenham >> Gloucestershire >> GL53 9NP >> >> Tel. 01242 870567 >> >> Snowdrops at Colesbourne Park 2012 >> Every Saturday and Sunday in February and 3-4 March from 1pm >> Guided group tours on weekdays by appointment. >> >>>> >>>> Message: 5 >>>> Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2012 13:01:08 -0800 >>>> From: "Carol Thornton" >>>> >>>> Hi All, >>>> I have an Irish friend who now lives in Mountain View and would like to >>>> plant snowdrops next >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@comcast.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cce0da$404e7e00$c0eb7a00$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 302 Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 07:08:46 -0500 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 302" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Bonaventure Magrys: 1. Small tubers of Amorphophallus albus 2. Small tubers of Amorphophallus bulbifer From Fred Thorne: 3. Seed of Larsenianthus careyanus (Zingiberaceae) From Lee Poulsen: 4. Seed of Ennealophus euryandrus 5. Seed of Cypella peruviana 6. Seed of Cypella coelestis 7. Small bulbs of Ipheion sessile From Kipp McMichael: 8. Seed of Bowiea volubilis From Ina Crossley: (SEEDS) 9. Habranthus tubispathus rosea 10. Zephyranthes 'Hidalgo' 11. Zephyranthes drummondii 12. Zephyranthes lindleyana (morrisclintii) 13. Zephyranthes primulina 14. Zephyranthes verecunda rosea From Mary Gastil-Buhl: 15. Seeds of Freesia laxa, blue 16. Corms/cormels of Freesia laxa, pale lavender blue From Dennis Kramb: 17. Seed of Biophytum sensitivum (Oxalidaceae) 18. Sees of Gloxinella lindeniana (Gesneriaceae) 19. Seed of Primulina tamiana (Gesneriaceae), formerly Chirita tamiana From Randy Linke: 20. Seeds of Hesperantha coccinea 'Oregon Sunset' From Mary Sue Ittner (SEEDS): 21. Dietes grandiflora - evergreen, long blooming in mild climates in a sunny location 22. Hesperoxiphion peruvianum - summer growing, fall blooming for me. This plant has a spectacular flower, but each flower is very short lived opening in the am and fading before the day is over (faster on warmer days.) The blooming season can last for months however, but probably best for people who are around during the day to see it bloom 23. Moraea polystachya - winter growing, long season of bloom in fall, best with some water during dormancy Thank you, Bonaventure, Fred, Lee, Kipp, Ina, Mary, Dennis, Randy, and Mary Sue !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1328102119.8054.YahooMailNeo@web33901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 05:15:19 -0800 (PST) I recommend that you put coarse sand on top of the media, that might discourage moss growth. ________________________________ From: Ken To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2012 12:22 AM Subject: [pbs] algae and moss in seedling pots I've had problems this year with algae and moss infesting the top layer of my outdoor seedling pots and trays, which seems to be detrimental to some of the seedlings.  I am tediously removing the infested layer and replacing with clean DG, as pictured here (one row remaining.)   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6799839455/in/photostream   I am afraid an algae/moss inhibitor also harm the seedlings.  I have not had this problem in previous years.  We've actually been quite dry after an early wet season in October and November.   Any suggestions?   Ken Blackford San Diego, California  USDA zone 10 From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Including the previous message/Digest choices Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 08:43:09 -0500 i thought this was a bulb soceity - and you brought up what it means - a bugger is a sodomite try more avoidence. ----- Original Message ----- From: "steven hart" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 9:02 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Including the previous message/Digest choices > While i wait for my nut labels to print for work, thought i would quickly > see what is happening here :) > Your very right Peter..... > > Oops, Bugger that was me...... Oops is another one & means i made a little > mistake...... > To any of you left wondering.... > Bugger is regularly used in conversation in Australia, but certainly > depends on the sentence as to what it means..... The old oxford > dictionary gives it a terrible meaning, which no body has used for > hundreds > of years so it should be removed, & not to be mentioned here by any means > please.... > > Bugger is recognised in many Australian dictionaries or slang > dictionaries, > we don't normally use abbreviations like "Afaik " in Australia but our > whole language base seems to include a lot of slang words in conversation, > so many in fact that most people would no longer know which ones are slang > & which ones are true dictionary meanings, many are being added to > dictionaries, it makes it confusing for outsiders for sure ! > In normal conversations in Australia bugger is used all the time & i > wonder > when the meaning changed, & why ? It is usually used with the > terminology, > ( O my goodness i buggered that up ! ) "The understood meaning for all > Australians is - " I made a silly mistake " > (What a bugger) can be used like "i wish that had not happened" (Don't > bugger it up ) "don't break that thing" (You bugger) i'm not sure i can > get > this one but its used a lot & finally (Bugger off) "Go away" > > Quite funny really no wonder people are confused by us Australians.... I > sometimes wonder if our convict roots played a roll in language changes as > the English deported large numbers of uneducated men & women, most only > guilty of steeling a loaf of bread through forced starvation, or similar > minor offences......Many of them couldn't even spell their names & that is > why so many names changed here on arrival to the convict colonies..... > Steven > Esk Queensland Australia > > On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 3:36 AM, Peter Taggart > wrote: > >> I try to avoid abbreviations, swearing, compressions and figures of >> speech. > > > >> While perfectly understandable to me, I hate to think what a translation >> into Hungarian or Polish of the words "bugger" or "doofuses" might be. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 09:00:31 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:52:42 -0600 Dear Friends, I currently have Lapeirousia oreogena in bloom. This is its 2nd year. The small flowers are intensely colored and very striking. I gave it is expected dry season, but was afraid I had over done it by denying water too long. It is responding nicely to late watering. It is blooming about a month later than last year. I also have and expect flowers soon on L. jacquinii and L. silenoides. The former bloomed last winter, but I am anticipating first bloom on the latter species. The flowers are very intensely colored, tiny and have a definite charm. Enjoying these small goodies. Jim W. ps the weather is still oddly mild with another day of 60 F and sunshine - that's 4 in a row . Odd Jan and Feb. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From mirrog@yahoo.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <63281ECCDFD44B558AC13B9707EB00D3@emirrojr> From: "Gene Mirro" Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:26:35 -0800 Maybe the containers aren't getting enough light. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 9:01 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 2 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: algae and moss in seedling pots (James Frelichowski) > 2. Re: Including the previous message/Digest choices (Robin Carrier) > 3. Lapeirousia season (James Waddick) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 05:15:19 -0800 (PST) > From: James Frelichowski > Subject: Re: [pbs] algae and moss in seedling pots > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <1328102119.8054.YahooMailNeo@web33901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > I recommend that you put coarse sand on top of the media, that might > discourage moss growth. > > > > ________________________________ > From: Ken > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2012 12:22 AM > Subject: [pbs] algae and moss in seedling pots > > I've had problems this year with algae and moss infesting the top layer of > my outdoor seedling pots and trays, which seems to be detrimental to some > of the seedlings.? I am tediously removing the infested layer and > replacing with clean DG, as pictured here (one row remaining.) > ? > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6799839455/in/photostream > ? > I am afraid?an algae/moss inhibitor also harm the seedlings.? I have not > had this problem in previous years.? We've actually been quite dry after > an early wet season in October and November.???Any suggestions? > ? > Ken Blackford > San Diego, California? USDA zone 10 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 08:43:09 -0500 > From: "Robin Carrier" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Including the previous message/Digest choices > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > i thought this was a bulb soceity - and you brought up what it means - a > bugger is a sodomite > try more avoidence. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "steven hart" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 9:02 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Including the previous message/Digest choices > > >> While i wait for my nut labels to print for work, thought i would quickly >> see what is happening here :) >> Your very right Peter..... >> >> Oops, Bugger that was me...... Oops is another one & means i made a >> little >> mistake...... >> To any of you left wondering.... >> Bugger is regularly used in conversation in Australia, but certainly >> depends on the sentence as to what it means..... The old oxford >> dictionary gives it a terrible meaning, which no body has used for >> hundreds >> of years so it should be removed, & not to be mentioned here by any means >> please.... >> >> Bugger is recognised in many Australian dictionaries or slang >> dictionaries, >> we don't normally use abbreviations like "Afaik " in Australia but our >> whole language base seems to include a lot of slang words in >> conversation, >> so many in fact that most people would no longer know which ones are >> slang >> & which ones are true dictionary meanings, many are being added to >> dictionaries, it makes it confusing for outsiders for sure ! >> In normal conversations in Australia bugger is used all the time & i >> wonder >> when the meaning changed, & why ? It is usually used with the >> terminology, >> ( O my goodness i buggered that up ! ) "The understood meaning for all >> Australians is - " I made a silly mistake " >> (What a bugger) can be used like "i wish that had not happened" (Don't >> bugger it up ) "don't break that thing" (You bugger) i'm not sure i can >> get >> this one but its used a lot & finally (Bugger off) "Go away" >> >> Quite funny really no wonder people are confused by us Australians.... I >> sometimes wonder if our convict roots played a roll in language changes >> as >> the English deported large numbers of uneducated men & women, most only >> guilty of steeling a loaf of bread through forced starvation, or similar >> minor offences......Many of them couldn't even spell their names & that >> is >> why so many names changed here on arrival to the convict colonies..... >> Steven >> Esk Queensland Australia >> >> On Tue, Jan 31, 2012 at 3:36 AM, Peter Taggart >> wrote: >> >>> I try to avoid abbreviations, swearing, compressions and figures of >>> speech. >> >> >> >>> While perfectly understandable to me, I hate to think what a translation >>> into Hungarian or Polish of the words "bugger" or "doofuses" might be. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:52:42 -0600 > From: James Waddick > Subject: [pbs] Lapeirousia season > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" > > Dear Friends, > > I currently have Lapeirousia oreogena in bloom. This is its > 2nd year. The small flowers are intensely colored and very striking. > I gave it is expected dry season, but was afraid I had over done it > by denying water too long. It is responding nicely to late watering. > It is blooming about a month later than last year. > > I also have and expect flowers soon on L. jacquinii and L. > silenoides. The former bloomed last winter, but I am anticipating > first bloom on the latter species. > > The flowers are very intensely colored, tiny and have a definite charm. > > Enjoying these small goodies. Jim W. > > > ps the weather is still oddly mild with another day of 60 F and > sunshine - that's 4 in a row . Odd Jan and Feb. > > > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. > Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 > USA > Ph. 816-746-1949 > Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 2 > *********************************** From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328117290.52129.YahooMailClassic@web181014.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:28:10 -0800 (PST) Thank you Tim, Nhu and James for your feedback,   I generally add no organic material in my seedling mix, which is generally 1/3 perlite, pumice and DG, topped with DG to hold down the perlite and pumice ... although there may be a minute amount in the DG I collect.  Perhaps my pumice source ('Dry-stall' from the feed store) is the culprit as that is new this year .... or .... the rain water collected from the roof that I use for irrigation?   With the deep rooted seedlings, it is relatively easy, albeit tedious, to pull off the layer of moss w/o damaging the seedling in each pot, but I was concerned the moss would get too thick ... like that posted by you, Nhu, wow!   I may try the kitty-litter top dressing, James ... anybody else use this?   Thanks again,   Ken Blackford San Diego, CA  USDA zone 10   --- On Tue, 1/31/12, Ken wrote: I've had problems this year with algae and moss infesting the top layer of my outdoor seedling pots and trays ...  http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6799839455/in/photostream From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 09:59:23 -0800 On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 9:28 AM, Ken wrote: > Thank you Tim, Nhu and James for your feedback, > > I generally add no organic material in my seedling mix, which is generally > 1/3 perlite, pumice and DG, Around Seattle, gardeners often use granite chips (available at feed stores, garden centers, stone yards) for seedling top dressing. It seems to help keep the moss down , but not great for keeping Liverwort out of the pots. I've used charcoal chips, and more recently crushed mineral chips( available in garden centers ) which seem to be the most effective in keeping these seed pot invaders in check. For wet, dark winter climates such as ours, mosses , algae , and liverwort are a huge problem for seed pots. Rick K From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <410-2201223118140343@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 13:01:40 -0500 Perhaps my pumice source ('Dry-stall' from the feed store) is the culprit as that is new this year .... or .... the rain water collected from the roof that I use for irrigation?  Your problem is that the top surface is not drying out because the Dry-stall absorbs so much moisture. Topdress with something like granite grit. Rainwater is probably the source of the moss. Moss in seedling pots is not always detrimental... Trillium and Paris love it. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Unusual Amaryllid foliage Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 18:11:57 +0000 Randy, are you using your mixes in layers? From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328121050.74296.YahooMailClassic@web181002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 10:30:50 -0800 (PST) Thanks Mark,   Is 'Dry-stall' significantly different from Horticultural pumice?  I thought I had hit upon a great thing because it is much cheaper but seems the same as Horticultural pumice I have bought.  I do top with DG (decomposed granite.)   re the moss ... I do keep the seed trays in shade, covered with a humidity dome until the seeds germinate ... then remove the dome and gradually move to a more sunny locale.  The moss and algae didn't seem to take off until after I moved the seedling trays into the sun, which is plentiful albeit low-in-the-sky winter sun.   Anybody?   Thanks,   Ken Blackford San Diego, CA  USDA zone 10 --- On Wed, 2/1/12, MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER Your problem is that the top surface is not drying out because the Dry-stall absorbs so much moisture.  Topdress with something  like granite grit.  Rainwater is probably the source of the moss. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 18:55:10 +0000 Provided all are seedlings and sanitary conditions reasonably good why not put all those small pots in a tray with no holes and water from BELOW. The right amount to pour in can be easily adjusted and moss will have less chances to take over. From zigur@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 12:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 11:30:19 -0800 I have used Dry-Stall in the past, and basically avoid it now. It is quite a bit smaller than the horticultural pumice I prefer, and doesn't have the range of particle size I like. Perlite holds much more water than pumice, so could be contributing to the proliferation of moss. T > Is 'Dry-stall' significantly different from Horticultural pumice? I thought I had hit upon a great thing because it is much cheaper but seems the same as Horticultural pumice I have bought. I do top with DG (decomposed granite.) > From jshields@indy.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120201145513.03c3a510@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2012 14:58:53 -0500 I see I hav e a clump of Galanthus in bloom, but I didn't try walking through the mud to see it up close; I assume it's elwesii. G. elwesii usually blooms only at the end of February. I also heard frogs calling along the creek, and saw robins out in the grass. The unseasonably mild weather is showing it's effects. Jim Shields in central Indiana, where the temperature is 54°F right now (normal for Feb. 1st, ca. 36°F) ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328129921.87676.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 12:58:41 -0800 (PST) Jim Shields wrote: "I also heard frogs calling along the creek" Frogs already? Could you tell if they were spring peepers (alone a high pitched whistle or en masse like sleigh bells ) or wood frogs (like ducks quacking or dogs barking in the distance)? Or maybe chorus frogs or cricket frogs? Jim McKenney zone 7 Maryland where the temperature topped 70 degrees F today.  From jshields@indy.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120201160413.056607c0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2012 16:05:48 -0500 Jim, I'm no expert on frogs, but I'd say they sounded more duck-like. This is extremely early for frogs and a bit early for Galanthus. Robins tend to show up at any old time. Jim S. At 12:58 PM 2/1/2012 -0800, you wrote: >Jim Shields wrote: "I also heard frogs calling along the creek" > >Frogs already? > >Could you tell if they were spring peepers (alone a high pitched whistle >or en masse like sleigh bells ) or wood frogs (like ducks quacking or dogs >barking in the distance)? Or maybe chorus frogs or cricket frogs? > >Jim McKenney >zone 7 Maryland where the temperature topped 70 degrees F today. >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From greg@alpacamanagement.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <84B2DD1CBE9E4FF594C09691A6F75108@greg32d9eee6c2> From: "Greg Ruckert" Subject: Language Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 07:55:25 +1030 With the globalisation should come an understanding that the same word can mean different things to different people. There is no global language. It is important to become less precious when trying to participate in global conversations. While this is a list based in the USA there are many on it, like myself, who live elsewhere. I don't get hung up on the fact that some participants don't spell the same way we do, heck English is not even spoken by the majority of people in the world. While a word may have an offensive conotation to someone in a place, elsewhere it may have a very tame, even common usage. Life is too good to get upset about minor things, that is why we are passionate about our plants! Greg Ruckert Nairne, South Australia >i thought this was a bulb soceity - and you brought up what it means - a >bugger is a sodomite try more avoidence. From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328133517.63480.YahooMailClassic@web181016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 13:58:37 -0800 (PST) Hi Alberto,   Actually ... I did originally have all pots in sealed trays back in September and October and usually do so through our dry season just for the reasons you suggest.  Mother Nature is not cooperating this year!  Must be the La Nina.  I keep them or racks outdoors (no greenhouse ... yet!)  Our substantial early rains flooded them.  I emptied the excess water ... a messy job ... only to have subsequent early rains re-flood.  I normally switch to the free-draining trays in December in prep for our winter rains, but did so in October.   November was rainy here so no more flooded trays ... but December and January were dry.   I provided additional overhead irrigation.   Now, while replacing the moss-infested DG top dressing, I am discovering that the remaining medium is excessively wet ... so I think I will agree with the previous comment that dry-stall does  indeed, absorb and retain excessive moisture.  Either that or I just need to learn to water less with it  ;-) !   Here's a shot of how I use those plastic modular shelving from Home Depot for my outdoor seedling racks:   http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6803436461/in/photostream   Thanks to everybody for their input !       Ken Blackford San Diego, CA     USDA zone 10 --- On Wed, 2/1/12, Alberto Castillo wrote: Provided all are seedlings and sanitary conditions reasonably good why not put all those small pots in a tray with no holes and water from BELOW. The right amount to pour in can be easily adjusted and moss will have less chances to take over. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 21:58:49 +0000 Jim, that is great. they certainly are not among the easiest of South African bulbs. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 22:35:37 +0000 Ken, what you call messy is a dream come true of neat and tidy for every gardener. As for the flooding problem you can pierce holes in the sealed trays' sides at the level good for watering (rather slightly above it). That way no matter how much it rains the excess water will just move out. Hope this is clear enough. From arlen.jose@verizon.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Fred Biasella" Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:04:02 -0500 Hi Ken, I had this problem too but then I mixed some Physan 20 with water and it cleared up the moss/algae problem. Fred Biasella Cambridge, MA From bulborum@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 00:37:02 +0100 Do you have any experiences with seedlings ?? Roland 2012/2/2 Fred Biasella : > > Hi Ken, > > I had this problem too but then I mixed some Physan 20 with water and it > cleared up the moss/algae problem. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <6E5D4AEE-177B-4181-BC14-98B31BD94338@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 17:57:02 -0600 After a discussion here about a month ago ( where Physan 20 was mentioned) I ordered some. I've used on trays with lachenalia and hippeastrum seedlings. Initial I sprayed test areas but have now covered all of the algae covered areas. It had no negative effect on even the youngest Lachenalia seedlings ( the Hippeastrum hybrids were older and much larger). I didn't do a drench just used a spray bottle to soak the algae. I did mist the seedlings slightly just to get the chemical off of the leaves, but not enough to wash it off the top layer of the trays. I've had algae issues in the greenhouse every year due in part to our humidity and part to moisture retaining soil mixes. Even the mostly coarse sand seed mix I've made will get algae at some point. It seems to work quickly without negative effects. Tim Chapman > Do you have any experiences with seedlings ?? > > Roland > From othonna@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 16:31:40 -0800 Since so many growers here like to start their seeds indoors, by necessity or preference, it may be worthwhile for them to set up a small low rpm fan to drift over the seedbed or seed pots 24 hrs (or most of the time). This would help reduce excess moisture retention, which seems to be the main issue as far as algae, etc. It would also improve the general air exchange and circulation in any enclosed space at a low cost. Normally I sow in small pots (3" or 4" square) in a mix of sharp sand, rather fine perlite and rather fine peat, in descending order but not precise proportions. I find it beneficial-- very important actually-- to top off the pot (when completely finished) at or very close to the actual rim. I add an obligate layer of fine granite that is roughly no. 10 grade (used in roofing here). With a few exceptions these pots all get free or limited rain exposure and limited direct morning sun and this suits a wide range of species quite nicely. The algae and wetness are, I think, mainly, a function of too much watering and (mostly indoor) conditions that do not allow proper drying. Dylan Hannon Los Angeles On 1 February 2012 15:57, Tim Chapman wrote: > > After a discussion here about a month ago ( where Physan 20 was mentioned) > I ordered some. I've used on trays with lachenalia and hippeastrum > seedlings. Initial I sprayed test areas but have now covered all of the > algae covered areas. It had no negative effect on even the youngest > Lachenalia seedlings ( the Hippeastrum hybrids were older and much larger). > I didn't do a drench just used a spray bottle to soak the algae. I did > mist the seedlings slightly just to get the chemical off of the leaves, but > not enough to wash it off the top layer of the trays. I've had algae > issues in the greenhouse every year due in part to our humidity and part to > moisture retaining soil mixes. Even the mostly coarse sand seed mix I've > made will get algae at some point. > > It seems to work quickly without negative effects. > > Tim Chapman > > > > Do you have any experiences with seedlings ?? > > > > Roland > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Where there is much desire to learn, there of necessity will be much arguing, much writing, many opinions; for opinion in good men is but knowledge in the making. — John Milton, *Areopagitica: A speech for the liberty of unlicensed printing to the Parliament of England*, 1644 From leo@possi.org Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <23664a6affbd25a3b1aec8438e2b7370.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Top-dressing or not Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 16:41:49 -0800 (PST) Alan wrote about Steven Hammer's bulbs with spiky leaves: > I notice in these photos and previous ones... > there is a fine gravel or grit - is this just a topping on > the growing media or does the entire media consist of this? I have not seen the plants in question in person, but Steven Hammer usually top-dresses his plants with this gravel. Most succulent growers do something similar. Leo Martin Phoenix, Arizona, United States of America I certify there are no abbreviations in this message From othonna@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Top-dressing or not Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 17:01:20 -0800 To add to what Leo said, it is a personal preference and I believe in most cases Steve's aesthetic topping is only skin-deep. Years ago I stopped adding any topper to mature plants for one simple reason: I could not see the surface of the mix to better gauge its dryness and need for watering. It looks great but doesn't help most growers (Steve is not most growers). Dylan Hannon Los Angeles CA On 1 February 2012 16:41, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Alan wrote about Steven Hammer's bulbs with spiky leaves: > > > I notice in these photos and previous ones... > > there is a fine gravel or grit - is this just a topping on > > the growing media or does the entire media consist of this? > > I have not seen the plants in question in person, but Steven Hammer > usually top-dresses his plants with this gravel. Most succulent growers do > something similar. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix, Arizona, United States of America > I certify there are no abbreviations in this message > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Where there is much desire to learn, there of necessity will be much arguing, much writing, many opinions; for opinion in good men is but knowledge in the making. — John Milton, *Areopagitica: A speech for the liberty of unlicensed printing to the Parliament of England*, 1644 From leo@possi.org Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 17:20:59 -0800 (PST) James Waddick wrote > I currently have Lapeirousia oreogena in bloom. This is its > 2nd year. The small flowers are intensely colored and very striking. > I gave it is expected dry season, but was afraid I had over done it > by denying water too long. To my surprise, Lapeirousia survive just fine outdoors all summer in Phoenix, Arizona in small containers in the hot sun, receiving our scant summer rain but no extra water. They routinely experience air temperatures well above 105 F / 41C, though it will be 20-30 degrees F / 16-24 degrees C cooler during rainy spells. I have forgotten about some of them and not watered until January (past midwinter in the northern hemisphere); they pop up and bloom just fine. My oreogenas are due to bloom in the next week or two. I have a lovely pale blue scented one (whose label I need to examine under a magnifying glass) flowering right now. They are also unharmed by overnight freezing to 18F / -8C even while in bloom and with wet soil. People who can provide cool winter temperatures above freezing and plenty of sun should try Lapeirousia; they are very easy and bloom when small plants. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 17:25:11 -0800 (PST) It can be a pH issue as well. I seem to recall many mosses prefer slightly acid environments. Perhaps you could raise the pH of your water a bit. Winter-growing bulb seedlings grow fine with Phoenix tap water, whose pH in the mid 8 range. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 01:25:30 +0000 Incidentally, the main problem with them is they come from arid locations. From leo@possi.org Wed, 01 Feb 2012 18:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <20816823d86ce62749413308acec9db8.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 17:49:39 -0800 (PST) Alberto Castillo wrote in reply regarding Lapeirousia, which apparently some people find difficult in cultivation: > Incidentally, the main problem with them is they come from arid > locations. How interesting... Of southern African winter-rainfall bulbous species, they are among the easiest under my conditions, rivaling Ornithogalum and easier than Albuca. I wonder whether it might be: 1) low relative humidity during my growing season (and the rest of the year) 2) high light levels all year at 33 degrees 27 minutes north 3) long, hot, low-humidity summers, indoors or outdoors 4) absence of organic material in my potting mix, which is a dense mixture of clay and/or sand or something else? Dylan Hannon in coastal southern California grows L. oreogena beautifully but in a high-organic mix compared to mine. Tim Harvey, do you grow Lapeirousia? Tim's climate, inland southern California, is similar to mine but slightly cooler in the summer, especially at night, and with more winter rain most years. Now that I've bragged I better start supplying seed to the BX. If only I could grow Galanthus or non-red Lycoris or Lilium or.... Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From totototo@telus.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <4F298053.16789.35BB@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 18:11:31 -0800 Eranthis hyemalis 'Pauline' I had to mount a rescue operation a year ago in anticipation of my front garden being dug up to reconstruct a big storm sewer under it. Couldn't find 'Pauline', but had a funny idea I'd moved her elsewhere. She is blooming at the moment and is distinctive: not a pale yellow like 'Moonlight'; rather a pale biscuit color like Aurinia saxatilis 'Dudley Neville'. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 02:25:18 +0000 or Nomocharis..... From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: C W Mueller Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 20:28:56 -0600 Here in Central Texas we've had only two frosts so far - some of my cannas and crinums are still green. But, larger frogs - not peepers or tree frogs - never seemed to go to sleep this winter and now it's spring, with Louisiana iris in full bloom, for instance. Normally last freeze should be about March 10. As I walk toward the creek the frogs yelp, and there is a corresponding splash in the water. Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone On Feb 1, 2012, at 3:05 PM, "J.E. Shields" wrote: > Jim, > > I'm no expert on frogs, but I'd say they sounded more duck-like. This is > extremely early for frogs and a bit early for Galanthus. Robins tend to > show up at any old time. > > Jim S. > > At 12:58 PM 2/1/2012 -0800, you wrote: >> Jim Shields wrote: "I also heard frogs calling along the creek" >> >> Frogs already? >> >> Could you tell if they were spring peepers (alone a high pitched whistle >> or en masse like sleigh bells ) or wood frogs (like ducks quacking or dogs >> barking in the distance)? Or maybe chorus frogs or cricket frogs? >> >> Jim McKenney >> zone 7 Maryland where the temperature topped 70 degrees F today. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 18:33:21 -0800 Hi Ken, I have been using Dry-Stall for a long while and usually get really good results from it. For a few years the grains were pretty small and even. In the last year, they seem to have switched to ones that have a good mix of sizes, even the fine powdery size mixed in, not unlike horticultural pumice. Some people don't like this dust but I don't mind and my bulbs don't seem to mind either. Both Dry-Stall and the common horticultural pumice in California is mine by a single company. I think the only difference between the two is that one is sifted better and the other one has different marketing. Nhu On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 10:30 AM, Ken wrote: > Is 'Dry-stall' significantly different from Horticultural pumice? I > thought I had hit upon a great thing because it is much cheaper but seems > the same as Horticultural pumice I have bought. I do top with DG > (decomposed granite.) > From arlen.jose@verizon.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Fred Biasella" Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:41:48 -0500 Hi Roland and All, As a matter of fact, I had the same experience with seedlings as Ken did. Just recently I got some seeds (nerine x amaryllis & amaryllis x brunsvigia) via the BX that were donated by Ken. Since I had never grown these particular interspecifics from seed, I wasn't sure how to go about it. I sent a query to the group and Ken was nice enough to give me his formula for starting these seeds. Very shortly after they sprouted (100% by the way) I noticed some algae starting to form on the growing media. I thought to myself, what do I have in my arsenal to combat this? Right away I thought Physan 20 should help, and it did. I water my plants with rainwater only, which is rather acidic in the Northeast and since algae and mosses love acidic conditions, the only conclusion was to make the water less acidic by adding the Physan 20. The seedlings are growing nicely and starting their second leaf stage, but I do keep and eye on the algae and as a preventative I give them a soak once a month with the Physan. Warm Regards, Fred -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Bulborum Botanicum Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 6:37 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Do you have any experiences with seedlings ?? Roland 2012/2/2 Fred Biasella : > > Hi Ken, > > I had this problem too but then I mixed some Physan 20 with water and it > cleared up the moss/algae problem. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From randysgarden@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Unusual Amaryllid foliage Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 18:51:53 -0800 There is not a definite horizon between the layers. depending on the size of the bulbs I will mix the adjacent components from 1 to 3 inches (2.5 - 7.5cm) deep in about equal proportions. For the bottom layer I do this below the bulb, and then I mix my top grit above the bulb, for those that are completely below ground. I just started doing that recently when Babiana pygmaea started their seasonal growth then several suddenly rotted as the mix they were in was retaining too much water. The survivors and the few others I tried this with seem to be doing fine. Randy Monterey Bay Area, California USDA zone 9 Eclectic interests including Irids and Amaryllids On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 10:11 AM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Randy, are you using your mixes in layers? > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From totototo@telus.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <4F299530.30088.32D0@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 19:40:32 -0800 On 1 Feb 2012, at 17:25, Leo A. Martin wrote: > It can be a pH issue as well. I seem to recall many mosses prefer slightly > acid environments. Perhaps you could raise the pH of your water a bit. > Winter-growing bulb seedlings grow fine with Phoenix tap water, whose pH > in the mid 8 range. An agrologist I worked with once told me that moss in a lawn is a sign of poor drainage, acid soil, shade, and low nutrient levels. (The last in reference to the grass growing poorly as a result.) The moral would seem to be not to water as much, to make sure that your seed mixes are near neutral, and to give plenty of light. Over the years, liverwort has been a much worse problem for me than moss. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1328155038.71708.YahooMailClassic@web181018.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 19:57:18 -0800 (PST) Hi Alberto,   Very clear!   Thank you!   I am ashamed ... must be suffering from brain effluvia ... as I did not think of that myself!    As for the Physan also suggested ... I have it, but am a bit afraid to try it on Amaryllid seedlings.  Not absolutely sure it was the Physan or not ... but when I added recommended amount to watering of a large mature potted Crinum moorei ... its leaves became distorted and it took 6 months to grow out of it.  The moss in that pot is gone, though!   Thanks. Ken Blackford San Diego, CA  USDA zone 10 --- On Wed, 2/1/12, Alberto Castillo wrote: As for the flooding problem you can pierce holes in the sealed trays' sides at the level good for watering (rather slightly above it). That way no matter how much it rains the excess water will just move out. Hope this is clear enough. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 04:01:15 +0000 As usual, people is very helpful but the problem is not Physan, algae, moss, etc. but the excess moisture that let them thrive. From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1328155487.9977.YahooMailClassic@web181015.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Physan and ... algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 20:04:47 -0800 (PST) Good to hear your experience with Physan did not affect the amaryllid seedlings.  Our posts must have crossed in the mail.  Maybe that Crinum had another problem.   Thanks, Fred!   Ken --- On Wed, 2/1/12, Fred Biasella wrote: As a matter of fact, I had the same experience with seedlings as Ken did. Just recently I got some seeds (nerine x amaryllis & amaryllis x brunsvigia) ... Very shortly after they sprouted (100% by the way) I noticed some algae starting to form on the growing media ... Right away I thought Physan 20 should help, and it did. I water my plants with rainwater only, which is rather acidic in the Northeast and since algae and mosses love acidic conditions, the only conclusion was to make the water less acidic by adding the Physan 20. The seedlings are growing nicely and starting their second leaf stage, but I do keep and eye on the algae and as a preventative I give them a soak once a month with the Physan. . From santoury@aol.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEAF77C857177B-15D0-6EC4@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: paramongaia seed starting Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 23:10:50 -0500 (EST) The seeds of Paramongaia weberbaueri are very much like Hippeastrum seed. Can they be started in water, like Hippys ? Jude From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed, 01 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <000d01cce161$6a026180$3e072480$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: New Moraea photos on the wiki Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 20:16:17 -0800 Hi, gang. I recently ran across a very nice collection of bulb photos posted online by Maarten Groos, the manager of an eco-resort in South Africa called Farm 215. He took the photos on the grounds of the resort, and they're pretty impressive. You can see the collection here: http://www.fynbos.sa.com/ Maarten gave us permission to reproduce some of his photos on the wiki. They include a huge variety of Moraea lurida color forms (various oranges, whites, and purples), supplementing the beautiful pictures Cameron McMaster had already provided. And there are photos of Moraea pyrophila, a Homeria-group species that blooms after fires (formerly Homeria galpinii). The M. lurida flowers are here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesSix#lurida (be sure to click the link labeled "More color forms.") And M. pyrophila is here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/HomeriaTwo#pyrophila Mike San Jose, CA From zigur@hotmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 21:10:42 -0800 Yes, I grow quite a few species, and am working on hybrids. T > Tim Harvey, do you grow Lapeirousia? Tim's climate, inland southern > California, is similar to mine but slightly cooler in the summer, > especially at night, and with more winter rain most years. From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: What's in Bloom Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2012 22:16:17 -0800 I love frogs too, & found it very interesting that one of Jim's, sounds like a duck..... Ever since i really got into collecting lilies & bulbs, i have had an amassing increase in frog populations, they love to hide with in the leaves of all my crinums, & amongst the cool garden areas & although i have a habitat pond in front of the house 5m or 15foot long by 2m or 5foot wide, prior to the introduction of the lilies there was very little habitat for anything but rocket frogs to survive in.. Rocket frogs, named because they move so fast, always live in the water & call with Bop.......bop...bopbop..... unlike many of the others that croak, erierk or creak... As the habitat & lilies have grown & Ive expanded my lily patch, my frog populations have absolutely exploded to around 14 local rainforest varieties, I'm delighted as frogs are in decline world wide, thought to be from chemical induced intolerance causing viruses, from my understanding any way, although it is still a great mystery being studied......... This is one of the reasons i never use spray in the garden, if i ever have to treat any bulbs, which is extremely rare thank goodness, i will remove them & quarantine it first...... A few of my varieties are, giant tree frog, graceful tree frog, white lipped tree frog, rocket frog, sedge frog, burrowing boppel bop, dainty tree frog, some i don't know & last of all endangered greater bared frog, it is brown with v shaped bars on the rear of its back legs, unlike most frogs that jump away if you touch them, this species will crouch down & hold its ground until you move away, it is often mistaken for cane toad a shocking feral species here from south America that is killing off many of our rare animals as it is toxic to almost all Australian animals, snakes & birds.... Greater bared frogs are often wrongly killed, mistaken as cane toads & increasing its endangered status, it can be heard for miles & is often mistaken as a common wood duck when it calls....... what a coincidence : ) Steven Esk Queensland Australia On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 12:58 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: Jim Shields wrote: "I also heard frogs calling along the creek" Frogs already? Could you tell if they were spring peepers (alone a high pitched whistle or en masse like sleigh bells ) or wood frogs (like ducks quacking or dogs barking in the distance)? Or maybe chorus frogs or cricket frogs? From bulborum@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 09:12:05 +0100 Thanks Fred I will try Roland 2012/2/2 Fred Biasella : > Very shortly after they sprouted (100% by the way) I noticed some algae > starting to form on the growing media. I thought to myself, what do I have > in my arsenal to combat this? Right away I thought Physan 20 should help, > and it did. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:29:53 +0000 I have never used it but I believe a little vinnegar will remove mosses and algae from pots. I seem to remember that a potassium permanganate solution is the traditional cure. I think tar oils would also work (armillitox, or winter tar wash for fruit trees), perhaps sulfer dust might do the job too? . Mosses will grow to top of magnesium carbonate and calcium carbonate rocks and walls, inches thick, in Derbyshire England, (alkaline rocks). Mosses and algae will also grow well on the acid grit-stone, and in enclosed or wet enviroments on 6 millimeter or larger gravel- including granite. As a foot note for those in drier climates - one of the jobs of a top dressing is to prevent "puddling" (compacting of the surface) of the growing medium by rain drops. I concur with Mark that moss makes an excellent top dressing and growing medium for some plants, for example Pleione or Trillium. I usually repot or else replace the compost and top dressing from the bulbs (plant roots in the case of non bulbs) upwards. This helps remove other weeds too. Peter (UK) From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Physan and ... algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:36:57 +0000 Moss and Algae (and liverwort) will grow well on damp tufa rock here- which I believe is very alkaline ... Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 4:04 AM, Ken wrote:--- On Wed, 2/1/12, Fred Biasella wrote: I water my plants with rainwater only, which is rather acidic inthe Northeast and since algae and mosses love acid conditions,.. From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:00:18 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2A76F6.3070908@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: calling all galanthophiles Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:43:50 +1300 An interesting snippet: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16789834 Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:00:18 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 06:31:48 -0600 >Jim, that is great. they certainly are not among the easiest of >South African bulbs. Dear Alberto and all, Glad I didn't know this or I might have worried more. Of course I grow all of these in pots indoors and well above freezing temperatures in my cold climate of Kansas City, Missouri. I use small pots and gave them almost no water from when they go dormant in early spring until about December. That's about 9 months of the year. The pots sit on a window sill completely unattended. I feared they had died, but once I began watering again they started right into growth. The intense flower color is certainly jewel-like as the name suggests. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ceridwen@internode.on.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:00:18 -0800 Message-Id: <8B3210E4-67DC-43C7-9DF1-FD86C4BC4BCD@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 23:20:38 +1030 Those modular plastic seedling racks look just beaut. Do you have a problem with them photo-degrading (California sunshine is presumably as harsh as Australian) or are they cheap enough to replace every one or two years? I have found that metal greenhouse/shade house benches (of any quality) are expensive enough to cause me pause - no doubt this has been discussed before? Any suggestions from fellow Australians? Cheers Ceridwen Sent from my iPhone On 02/02/2012, at 8:28 AM, Ken wrote: > Hi Alberto, > > Actually ... I did originally have all pots in sealed trays back in September and October and usually do so through our dry season just for the reasons you suggest. Mother Nature is not cooperating this year! Must be the La Nina. I keep them or racks outdoors (no greenhouse ... yet!) Our substantial early rains flooded them. I emptied the excess water ... a messy job ... only to have subsequent early rains re-flood. I normally switch to the free-draining trays in December in prep for our winter rains, but did so in October. November was rainy here so no more flooded trays ... but December and January were dry. I provided additional overhead irrigation. > > Now, while replacing the moss-infested DG top dressing, I am discovering that the remaining medium is excessively wet ... so I think I will agree with the previous comment that dry-stall does indeed, absorb and retain excessive moisture. Either that or I just need to learn to water less with it ;-) ! > > Here's a shot of how I use those plastic modular shelving from Home Depot for my outdoor seedling racks: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6803436461/in/photostream > > Thanks to everybody for their input ! > > Ken Blackford > San Diego, CA USDA zone 10 > > --- On Wed, 2/1/12, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > > Provided all are seedlings and sanitary conditions reasonably good why not put all those small pots in a tray with no holes and water from BELOW. The right amount to pour in can be easily adjusted and moss will have less chances to take over. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bonsaigai37@aol.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 06:00:18 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEAFC1BC50B113-A14-8485@webmail-d081.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: calling all galanthophiles Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 08:00:13 -0500 (EST) Great article. Thank you Ina! An interesting snippet: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-16789834 Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1328192472.95232.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 06:21:12 -0800 (PST) Jim W. wrote of Lapeirousia " The intense flower color is certainly jewel-like as the name suggests." Jim, what name is that?  Jim McKenney From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 08:43:12 -0600 >Jim W. wrote of Lapeirousia " The intense flower color is certainly >jewel-like as the name suggests." > >Jim, what name is that? Dear Jim McK. and all, The genus name comes from the same Latin source as Lapis a gem stone of intense blue color. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From bulborum@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 15:57:57 +0100 Why not make a wooden frame long lasting and not expensive just don't use the cheap screws better to make them yourself see link https://plus.google.com/photos/108516029021129842551/albums/5704547204229590881?authkey=CLWg79-uzKzhGw of-course you can make them in every combination don't use thick wood vertical wood 2x3 cm can handle over 100 kilo Roland 2012/2/2 Ceridwen Lloyd : > Those modular plastic seedling racks look just beaut. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1328195465.35269.YahooMailNeo@web84510.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 07:11:05 -0800 (PST) Jim W. wrote " The genus name comes from the same Latin source as Lapis a gem stone of intense blue color." Jim, are you sure? I would have thought it was named for someone with the French name La Perouse, maybe the Comte de La Perouse, eighteenth century navigator and explorer? The genus was named by French botanist Pierre André Pourret de Figeac, 1754-1818. So the timing is right, but this is just a guess on my part.  Jim McKenney From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <410-220122421533431@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:33:04 -0500 > > Jim, are you sure? I would have thought it was named for someone with the French name La Perouse, maybe the Comte de La Perouse, eighteenth century navigator and explorer? The genus was named by French botanist Pierre André Pourret de Figeac, 1754-1818. So the timing is right, but this is just a guess on my part.  > According to Goldblatt's 1972 revision it was named by Pourret in honour of his friend the naturalist Baron de la Peirouse, an expert on the plants of the Pyrenees. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a with lots o' Laps in the greenhouse now From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 15:44:15 -0000 Jim McKenney is right: it was named in honour of the French explorer, Laperouse. but it must have been entirely honorifiv in intent, as he had no connection with the botanical exploration of southern Africa. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 Snowdrops at Colesbourne Park 2012 Every Saturday and Sunday in February and 3-4 March from 1pm Guided group tours on weekdays by appointment. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim McKenney" Jim W. wrote " The genus name comes from the same Latin source as Lapis a gem stone of intense blue color." Jim, are you sure? I would have thought it was named for someone with the French name La Perouse, maybe the Comte de La Perouse, eighteenth century navigator and explorer? The genus was named by French botanist Pierre André Pourret de Figeac, 1754-1818. So the timing is right, but this is just a guess on my part. Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 15:50:07 -0000 I stand corrected - my apologies. John Grimshaw ----- Original Message ----- From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" > According to Goldblatt's 1972 revision it was named by Pourret in honour > of > his friend the naturalist Baron de la Peirouse, an expert on the plants of > the Pyrenees. > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1328198056.90216.YahooMailNeo@web84506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 07:54:16 -0800 (PST) Thanks, Mark. And after doing a bit of |Googling, I found that Pourret and de la Peyrouse both died in 1818. And I notice that his name was spelled both Peyrouse and Peirouse.  Jim McKenney From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2AB65D.5010409@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Pamianthe peruviana pollen Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2012 08:14:21 -0800 My Pamianthe peruviana is in bloom, and this year has four flowers on one scape. The sad thing this year is that the anthers look very strange. The have split, but look dry and lacking in pollen. This has never happened before. The temperatures at night have been colder than usual (for this region) the past six weeks or so with frost every night, but I can't think of anything else that is different. Does anyone have any ideas? A picture from this year can be seen on the blog, plus one from a previous year showing the normal anthers. www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com Diana From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <410-2201224216238203@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 11:23:08 -0500 And I notice that his name was spelled both Peyrouse and Peirouse.  > Jim, The 'Y' spelling was originally an error by Pourret's (1788) artist, continued by Ker (1802 and 05), and finally corrected in 1955 by Lawrence. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1328200869.79765.YahooMailNeo@web84516.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 08:41:09 -0800 (PST) Mark wrote "The 'Y' spelling was originally an error by Pourret's (1788) artist,continued by Ker (1802 and 05), and finally corrected in 1955 by Lawrence." Mark, that's interesting, but I wonder if there is more to the story. For instance, you can see the cover page of La Peyrouse's Histoire Abrégrée des Plantes des Pyrénées here: http://books.google.com/books?id=6eZRNl21jcQC&printsec=frontcover&source=gbs_ge_summary_r&cad=0#v=onepage&q&f=false And the name is spelled Peyrouse. This was published posthumously.  Do you know what the basis was for Lawrence's correction?  Jim McKenney From randysgarden@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 09:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 08:44:13 -0800 On Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 8:23 AM, MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER < markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net> wrote: > And I notice that his name was spelled both Peyrouse and Peirouse. > > > Jim, > The 'Y' spelling was originally an error by Pourret's (1788) artist, > continued by Ker (1802 and 05), and finally corrected in 1955 by Lawrence. > Since we have gotten off on the topic of word meanings, languages, > spellings and naming I will just pipe in with this... > Standardized spelling is a rather recent concept, for instance German was > not standardized until after unification in 1870, as easily witnessed by a > gravestone in a nearby cemetery from the 1840s. > > And of course honorifics are very common, such as Albizia, after poor > Albizi who made it no further than the street below the balcony he fell > from in Greece. > Randy > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > * * From kjblack@pacbell.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1328202038.57612.YahooMailClassic@web181013.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 09:00:38 -0800 (PST) my oldest set ...  at 13 years ... is beginning to show some definite photo-degradation but still in use.  However, it was clearly not as well-made as later models / subsequent purchases which range in age from 1-10 years and show little degradation.  Still ... I use those oldest shelves at the ground level, to provide proper spacing for the legs.  The oldest shelves lost a few cross-teeth and probably will not support much weight as well ... thus the ground level.  The newer sets are still not industrial/commercial-strength, but at a relatively cheap 25-45 US$ per set of 5 shelves, depending on width ... I prefer the wider (24"/60cm) shelving ... they are more than adequate for my usage and probably 1/4 the price of those heavy black plastic shelving units I've seen in nurseries.   I hand-cut some legs in half, so I can interlock the units which I think provides additional stability over a stand-alone unit.   I am at the 33rd parallel ... so sun is intense but perhaps not so much as at lower latitudes.  I also have some of the common metal wire shelving ... which rusts and makes disassembly and relocation difficult ... whereas the plastic remains relatively easy to do so.   I've not paid attention to the manufacturer ... but all of mine have been purchased at the Home Depot chain here in the US.  Ken San Diego, California  USDA zone 10 --- On Thu, 2/2/12, Ceridwen Lloyd wrote: Those modular plastic seedling racks ... Do you have a problem with them photo-degrading (California sunshine is presumably as harsh as Australian) or are they cheap enough to replace every one or two years? I have found that metal greenhouse/shade house benches (of any quality) are expensive enough to cause me pause - From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 11:33:37 -0600 Jim McK wrote - >Jim, are you sure? I would have thought it was named for someone with the >French name La Perouse, maybe the Comte de La Perouse....but this is just a >guess on my part.Ý >> Mark M wrote - >According to Goldblatt's 1972 revision it was named by Pourret in honour of >his friend the naturalist Baron de la Peirouse, an expert on the plants of >the Pyrenees. Dear All, Yes, just a guess on my part considering the gem like quality of the flower color. Now with many thanks, I know better. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1328207222.2366.YahooMailClassic@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: language debacle sparked memory Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:27:02 -0800 (PST) Thanks steven hartfor the wonderful story about your great great grand father's pub brawl and Mar your great grand mother the gardener & lily bulb collector From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1328209084.2910.YahooMailNeo@web84511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:58:04 -0800 (PST) I've had a chance to read the account of the history of the genus in Goldblatt,  and the answer to the question about the spelling of the name seems, to me at least, to boil down to how the eponym spelled his name. And I don't have enough information now to answer that. The account in Goldblatt assumes that Pourret's  artist misspelled the name, using the y instead of the i. However, it also points out the when KerGawler revived the name he spelled it Lapeyrousia. And the fact that Lapeyrouse's work on the plants of the Pyrenees used the spelling Peyrouse for the author's name lends weight to the possibility  that the author himself preferred that spelling.  I'll do some more digging, but a sure answer might prove elusive. For instance, if you Google the name Lapeirouse and restrict the hits to French language hits, you'll be sent to a page indicating that you have misspelled something. If you search for Lapeyrouse, you'll get the French language page on our man. But before you jump to the conclusion that the name is properly Lapeyrouse, check out the first foot note:  1. ↑ Certaines sources donnent le nom de La Peirouse. Hmmm.....maybe it's a chicken or the egg situation.  Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1328209151.81069.YahooMailClassic@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: Physan and ... algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 10:59:11 -0800 (PST) I use Physan as a virucide, fungicide and algicide; but I have had some bleaching of leaves from some plants that have taken it up by their roots.Just -For Your Information- (FYI) From xerantheum@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: New Moraea photos on the wiki Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 11:41:48 -0800 Thanks, Mike for adding all of those delicious photos. That's really fantastic variations in the species. Moraea neopavonia is one if my favorites and seeing the red form was something else! http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesSeven Nhu On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 8:16 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > The M. lurida flowers are here: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesSix#lurida > (be sure to click the link labeled "More color forms.") > From odysseybulbs@earthlink.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: From: Russell Stafford Subject: Plastic shelving Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2012 14:54:09 -0500 Home Depot currently has 4-shelf, 18"x36"x55" units on sale at $20. I just purchased 3 -- too good to pass up. Russell At 12:00 PM 2/2/2012, you wrote: >I've not paid attention to the manufacturer ... but all of mine have >been purchased at the Home Depot chain here in the US. Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From meenglis@meenglis.cts.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2AEEC7.6040604@meenglis.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: Dry-stall vs Horticultural pumice ... was algae and moss in seedling pots Date: Thu, 02 Feb 2012 12:15:03 -0800 Ken - How do you keep our local pack rats and other critters from marauding through your plants? Marguerite - East of San Diego at 3700 ft. Ken wrote: > I keep them or racks outdoors (no greenhouse ... yet!) > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <003601cce1eb$37096af0$a51c40d0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 12:42:43 -0800 Tim wrote: >> Yes, I grow quite a few species, and am working on hybrids. Tim, have you posted photos of those hybrids anywhere? I'd love to see them. Mike San Jose, CA From kjblack@pacbell.net Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <1328217089.34644.YahooMailClassic@web181007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: shelving & marauding critters ... was algae, moss in seedlings/drystall Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 13:11:29 -0800 (PST) Hi Marguerite ...   I guess I've been fairly lucky.  While I have neighborhood cats, skunks, racoons, opposums, gophers, coyotes and even an occasional fox ... the only real problem I've encountered is with the towhees (generally in the spring ... I assume for next building) pulling seedlings out of their pots.  They seem to reject them after doing so and leave them on top of the pot.  I try to deter this by placing plastic nursery flats (with loose cross-hatch bottoms) upside down over the seedlings after the first sign of towhee activity.  It seems fairly effective.  I also had doves nest once in the shelving amongst the pots, but I believe the local hawks (or possibly crows) made horderves out of the nestlings and a meal of the doves, as I found a big disturbance on the shelf and a pile of feathers directly below a backyard tree limb the same day.   The hawks particularly like that tree limb and frequently use it while they eat.  No nesting doves of late!   Ken Blackford San Diego, California, USDA zone 10 --- On Thu, 2/2/12, Marguerite English wrote: Ken - How do you keep our local pack rats and other critters from marauding through your plants? ... >   I keep them or racks outdoors (no greenhouse ... yet!)  From pelarg@aol.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB00DC5027836-111C-BCD2@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: paramongaia seed starting Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 17:04:29 -0500 (EST) They can be started in water like hippeastrums, but its not necessary, I've done both, and prefer just planting them right into seedling mix. Ernie DeMarie Z6/7 (more like 8 this year as the earliest daffodils bloom against a wall) Tuckahoe NY -----Original Message----- From: The Silent Seed To: pbs Sent: Wed, Feb 1, 2012 11:11 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] paramongaia seed starting The seeds of Paramongaia weberbaueri are very much like Hippeastrum seed. Can they be started in water, like Hippys ? Jude From pelarg@aol.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB00E293AC45E-111C-BD16@webmail-m006.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: New Moraea photos on the wiki Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 17:07:17 -0500 (EST) That red one, hybrid or not, is utterly awesome! Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY z6/7 (or 8 this year?) Moraea neopavonia is one if my favorites and seeing the red form wassomething else!http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesSevenNhuOn Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 8:16 PM, From santoury@aol.com Thu, 02 Feb 2012 18:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB01D24B8EFFE-15D0-C9A0@Webmail-d122.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Hippy calypratum seedling care Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 18:54:32 -0500 (EST) I got a few H. calypratum seeds that sprouted - they are in water - the first root is about an inch, and they now have a tiny leaf coming out the top, about 1/4 inch. What next? Should I let them stay in the water for a while longer, then transfer them to moss ? Thanks! ______________________________________________ ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Do you want to receive my plant newsletters via email? santoury@aol.com The Silent Seed - Rare and Unusual Plants ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- From frewintp@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 03:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: terry frewin Subject: Habranthus or Zephranthes? Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 20:03:01 +1100 http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohovalleyplants/6810962853/in/photostream I'd appreciate knowing how to tell which genus this rain lily belongs to, thanks Terry -- terry frewin 661 upper boho road boho 3669 03 5790 8635 0429 908 635 From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 03:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2BA404.9030406@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Habranthus or Zephranthes? Date: Fri, 03 Feb 2012 22:08:20 +1300 Habranthus tubispathus var texensis. It is about 8" high. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 3/02/2012 10:03 p.m., terry frewin wrote: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohovalleyplants/6810962853/in/photostream > > I'd appreciate knowing how to tell which genus this rain lily belongs to, > thanks Terry From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 12:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Habranthus or Zephranthes? Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 18:39:02 +0000 It is one of the many forms of Habranthus tubispathus (in the past Habranthus andersoni). From idavide@sbcglobal.net Fri, 03 Feb 2012 12:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1328298668.67314.YahooMailRC@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: shelving & marauding critters ... was algae, moss in seedlings/drystall Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 11:51:08 -0800 (PST) Ken,   You're lucky; my doves successfully fledged a pair of chicks, but at the cost of a plant.  To prevent them from abandoning the chicks, I tried not to disturb them, which meant I couldn't water nearby.  Fortunately the loss was an Aristea ecklonii, which can become weedy, but this was the first I had raised from seed.  This year I am taking care to not allow them to build a nest in any of my pots.   David E. S.F.Peninsula From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: shelving & marauding critters ... was algae, moss in seedlings/drystall Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 20:29:53 +0000 Worst problem with animals on pots here is cats- only they are not nesting! I have made sure the local feline population is well aware of my feelings re this behavior. Peter (UK) On Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 7:51 PM, David Ehrlich wrote: > Ken, > > You're lucky; my doves successfully fledged a pair of chicks, but at the > cost of > a plant. From joshuakyleyoung@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 15:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Hippy calypratum seedling care Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 15:36:33 -0500 I grow mine in a orchid medium with a little humus, they grow very well this way. I always wait till the leaf is large enough to handle and I would transfer them over. On Thu, Feb 2, 2012 at 6:54 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > I got a few H. calypratum seeds that sprouted - they are in water - the > first root is about an inch, and they now have a tiny leaf coming out the > top, about 1/4 inch. What next? Should I let them stay in the water for a > while longer, then transfer them to moss ? > Thanks! > > > > > > > From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2C6DC2.3010500@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Scadoxus katherinae Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2012 12:29:06 +1300 Update on the photo of Scadoxus katherinae https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/WhatIsFlowering?authkey=Gv1sRgCPifoLab_pObogE#5705053270325584178 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From leo@possi.org Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Plant benches in strong sun Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 17:01:01 -0800 (PST) Wood doesn't last long in the intense California and Arizona sun unless painted every year or two. That entails moving everything off the wood to someplace else.... I have seen benches made from chain link fencing stretched and secured over wood. It not only lasts a long time but allows water and air to pass through. Salvaged chain link is often available for much less money. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <5b3798988f03ded7ccec7196ed125bfa.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 17:12:09 -0800 (PST) I have a hunch it was Philippe-Isidore Picot de Lapeyrouse the natural philosopher, and not Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse, the explorer who vacationed in Maui, Hawaii. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri, 03 Feb 2012 18:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1328319590.22793.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 17:39:50 -0800 (PST) Leo wrote: "I have a hunch it was Philippe-Isidore Picot de Lapeyrouse the natural philosopher, and not Jean-François de Galaup, comte de Lapérouse, the explorer who vacationed in Maui, Hawaii." You're right about the person in question, Leo, but we had already established that thanks to the information provided by Mark Mazer,  At this point, for me at least, the question is which spelling is proper: Lapeyrousia or Lapeirousia? Jim McKenney From othonna@gmail.com Fri, 03 Feb 2012 21:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Plant benches in strong sun Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 18:48:50 -0800 Leo, I have found the following product to be excellent in full sun in the Los Angeles area: http://structuralplastics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_6_89 I bought some of these grid top pieces about 1997 and they are almost indistinguishable today. The material is like what they make milk crates from. It makes for easy sliding around of flats. The only thing I didn't care for were the tube legs (I use cinder blocks) but they would probably be fine on a flat paved surface. These tops need to be evenly supported or they can warp but in my experience the warping is not a permanent problem. Highly recommended. PS Leo, I could not see if you were answering someone's question? Dylan Hannon Los Angeles CA On 3 February 2012 17:01, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Wood doesn't last long in the intense California and Arizona sun unless > painted every year or two. That entails moving everything off the wood to > someplace else.... > > I have seen benches made from chain link fencing stretched and secured > over wood. It not only lasts a long time but allows water and air to pass > through. Salvaged chain link is often available for much less money. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Where there is much desire to learn, there of necessity will be much arguing, much writing, many opinions; for opinion in good men is but knowledge in the making. — John Milton, *Areopagitica: A speech for the liberty of unlicensed printing to the Parliament of England*, 1644 From awilson@avonia.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1011BEA67A2044049049E4342F29DC3A@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 21:02:47 -0800 The spelling is determined by the published name accepted, independent of how the person after whom the genus is named spelled his name. It happens all the time. In this case, the matter was cleared up a long time ago. On page 284, para. (d) of Botanical Latin (fourth edition, 1992) by William T. Stearn, we read "Lapeirousia and Peyrousea , both after P. Picot de La Peyrouse." Andrew San Diego From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: PBS get together 2012 - RSVP open Date: Fri, 3 Feb 2012 21:08:01 -0800 Greetings everyone, To celebrate PBS’s 10th birthday, I am organizing a PBS get together this spring at the UC Botanical Garden in Berkeley, California. The event will be held on Saturday April 21st and Sunday April 22nd, 2012. The first day will be the official date of event sponsored by the PBS. There will be a few short geophyte talks followed by lunch, walks around the garden (it should be stunning in April) and visiting with other bulb enthusiasts. We will have a show and tale table, including some material for trade and sale. If you're thinking about attending, this is a good time to start thinking about those extra plants! The Sunday event is an unofficial fieldtrip. We simply get together and carpool to Mt. Diablo, an interesting destination for CA native plants, particularly geophytic plants. To tempt you, the geophyte list includes theendemic *Calochortus pulchellus, Allium falcifolium* both purple and white forms, *Allium serra, Delphinium nudicaule, Fritillaria affinis, Fritillaria lanceolata, Chlorogalum pomeridianum, Marah fabaceus, Triteleia laxa, Triteleia hyacinthina, Dichelostemma capitatum, Dichelostemma congestum, Zigadenus freemontii, Sisyrinchium bellum, Lewisia rediviva, Trillium chloropetalum*and possibly more! April in northern California is a beautiful time with sporadic rain and beautiful sunshine. It is a little too late for the mass blooming of desert wildflowers in the south (usually first week of April) but northern CA is usually in good bloom. Even if there weren't lots of wildflowers, thenorthern CA coast is absolutely gorgeous in April, not to mention the redwood forests that are not too awfully far away. So, hopefully with that, I have tempted you enough to think about joining us for a weekend full of geophytes and company with people who love them. Already it sounds like it would be a fun event with people coming from far away. If you are interested and have questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me. If you are interested in coming, please RSVP so that I can get a count and start thinking about food. You can find the registration page here: *http://tinyurl.com/PBSgettogether2012 * AND if you are coming and are interested in giving a short talk on your favorite geophytes or related topics, please let me know as well. * *Very best and hope to see you in April! Nhu PBS President* * From Theladygardens@aol.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <7602.4ea04f46.3c5e3189@aol.com> From: Theladygardens@aol.com Subject: PBS get together 2012 - RSVP open Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 02:00:25 -0500 (EST) I would love to attend this but it is the same weekend as the Region 14 Iris convention in Santa Cruz. I am involved with AIS and that so won't be able to. I'm bummed. It sounds wonderful! Carolyn Craft From frewintp@gmail.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 00:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: terry frewin Subject: Habranthus or Zephranthes? Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 18:31:21 +1100 Thanks Ina and Alberto. These volunteered in a pot of 'something' I bought, they have certainly bulked up quickly. I have another - also a volunteer - which I'll post soon for some help with, regards Terry On Sat, Feb 4, 2012 at 5:39 AM, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > It is one of the many forms of Habranthus tubispathus (in the past > Habranthus andersoni). > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- terry frewin 661 upper boho road boho 3669 03 5790 8635 0429 908 635 From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 03:00:23 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Ranunculua asiaticus single flowered Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 10:54:13 +0000 Ranunculus asiaticus is in leaf here and evidently happy, though not a large pot full. Jim feel free to check what material I might spare in the Summer. Here it is the coldest weather yet this winter, everything is frozen today. Peter (UK) From annamwal@interia.pl Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:00:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4726E195E93E46FB91838B69F0E516D3@MarekKomputer> From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: PBS get together 2012 - RSVP open Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 15:23:48 +0100 Hi Nhu, I live too far away to attend the PBS events, but I hope you will be so kind to share photos and - maybe - some texts of "geophyte talks". Marek Walnik, from frozen Poland -----Oryginalna wiadomosc----- From: Nhu Nguyen Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2012 6:08 AM Subject: [pbs] PBS get together 2012 - RSVP open ... To celebrate PBS’s 10th birthday, I am organizing a PBS get together ... From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:00:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1328367700.77917.YahooMailNeo@web84508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 07:01:40 -0800 (PST) Andrew wrote:"In this case, the matter was cleared up a long time ago. On page 284, para. (d) of Botanical Latin (fourth edition, 1992) by William T. Stearn, we read "Lapeirousia and Peyrousea , both after P. Picot de La Peyrouse." Andrew, I think you have jumped to the wrong conclusion about what that paragraph means. The paragraph begins "Names may be accompanied by a prefix or a suffix or be modified by anagram or abbreviation. In those cases they count as different words from the original name." Stearn then cites as examples both Lapeirousia and Peyrousea. Stearn's example is ambivalent because he cites examples with three variables (the ei/ey issue, the ia/ea issue and the use or non use of the 'La'. Strictly speaking, paragraph (d) addresses only the use or non use of the 'La'.   And have you noticed something else peculiar? There is a contradiction between what is written in paragraph (a) and the spelling Lapeirousia Stearn uses in paragraph (d). Look at paragraph (a) on the same page of Stearn: if the name is LaPeirouse or LaPeyrouse, shouldn't the genus have been spelled Lapeirousea or Lapeyrousea (cf. the Peyrousea also cited by Stearn)?   The author of the genus was Francophone; I'll bet to his ears the name Lapeirouse ended in a consonant sound (the 's' sound) because the final 'e' is silent. His sense of euphony required that the name  be formed as if it were written with a final consonant, and thus he dropped the final silent 'e' and gave it the standard -ia ending used for names ending in a consonant sound.   I think the ICBN has this one wrong. Take the example cited by Stearn, a genus based on the name Sloane. Because this name is written with a final (silent) 'e', the rules suggest that a genus based on this name be spelled Sloanea.  But if the name Sloane rhymes with loan, then like LaPeyrouse it ends in a consonantal sound, in this case the 'n' sound. Euphony suggests that the genus name be spelled Sloania. In the English speaking world there seems to be a tendency to regard only the written form of the word and to disregard the spoken form. But this makes no sense if ultimately the basic rules derive from principles of euphony (as they do).   Jim McKenney From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 09:00:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Pacific Rim Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 09:21:50 -0600 Dear Friends, I see Pacific Rim Native Plants has finally reopened as a new web site after a long absence. http://www.hillkeep.ca/Pacific%20Rim%202012%20plant%20list%20Feb%202.pdf They offer a number of Pacific Coast natives and bulbs. All advertised as blooming size plants. Owner Paige Woodward is friend of PBS and NARGS so hope you'll take a look. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ajzw@wp.pl Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <4f2d509420c778.75246209@wp.pl> From: =?ISO-8859-2?Q?Jacek_Zwoli=F1ski?= Subject: Ipheion uniflorum hardiness Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2012 16:36:52 +0100 Dear all, I wonder how it is possible, that Ipeion uniflorum is able to survive winter in Central European zone 6 climate, where I live. It is said in the PBS viki that I. uniflorum grows wild in Uruguay. The difference between winter in Uruguay and in Poland is enormous. May be, it also grows in mountains in Argentina?? - this migot help me understand hardiness. I can confirm full hardines in the following conditions: -20 C night/ -15 C day for 10 days continuously without snow cover (last winter). Flowers and increases very well despite partial shade. Autumn laeves are not prone to severe winter damage. This year we have -25 C night - will see in the spring. One of the latest flowering spring bulbs in my garden. Certainly more winter hardy than some seemingly hardy species, like Galanthus woronowii Jacek, Poland, zone 6 From jshields@indy.net Sat, 04 Feb 2012 12:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120204120418.033ba2d8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: What is Blooming Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2012 12:13:52 -0500 I have posted a picture in my blog of some of the Galanthus elwesii that are blooming, as well as a picture of an interspecific Clivia hybrid in bloom in the greenhouse and a hybrid Lachenalia in bloom, also in a greenhouse. These are at: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/Blogs/Garden/index.html#feb03.12 Not pictured yet anywhere are Galanthus nivalis atkisii in bloom and Clivia ['Foxy Lady' x L35] , the latter from seed given to my wife in South Africa in 2006. This Clivia is a nice pastel, almost could be a Watercolor Washed type. Some of the Hippeastrum species are showing buds now. Jim Shields in chilly and rainy central Indiana ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From randysgarden@gmail.com Sat, 04 Feb 2012 12:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Pacific Rim Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 11:52:45 -0800 On Sat, Feb 4, 2012 at 7:21 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends, > I see Pacific Rim Native Plants has finally reopened Jim. Their site has me salivating. Sadly I am making my spring run to visit my sister shortly, which is my excuse to visit my favorite supplier of growing supplies, (read best prices for good stuff but a long drive). I have bookmarked the site for future reference. Thank you, Randy From zigur@hotmail.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Lapeirousia season Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 22:25:49 -0800 They were rather disappointing, and didn't even bother to take a picture. T > Tim, have you posted photos of those hybrids anywhere? I'd love to see > them. From frewintp@gmail.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: terry frewin Subject: another rain lily Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 17:30:28 +1100 Thanks Ina and Alberto for the id on the 'copper' rain lily. Here's another - also a volunteer - also very prolific. Gorgeous colour, yellow throat http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohovalleyplants/6820049669/in/photostream thanks Terry -- terry frewin 661 upper boho road boho 3669 03 5790 8635 0429 908 635 From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2E2421.5050001@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: another rain lily Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2012 19:39:29 +1300 Possibly a Zephyranthes grandiflora before it opens properly? But the grandiflora has a white throat. Does it set seed Terry? Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 5/02/2012 7:30 p.m., terry frewin wrote: > Thanks Ina and Alberto for the id on the 'copper' rain lily. > Here's another - also a volunteer - also very prolific. Gorgeous colour, > yellow throat > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohovalleyplants/6820049669/in/photostream > thanks Terry > > > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From awilson@avonia.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2012 23:03:05 -0800 Jim, It seems likely that you may have misinterpreted my extract from Stearns to indicate that the name of the person for whom Lapeirousea was named was a matter for botanical Latin, not for history. I chose the extract from this book, Botanical Latin by Stearns, because it is a present-day book used by a number of people at this site. The source of the information, where the name came from, was dealt with in a rather more obscure document. Since you have questions regarding Stearns, I shall quote from it. Dictionnaire classique d'histoire naturelle, V. 9, Bory de Saint-Vincent (published byRey y Gravier in 1826) gives " LAPEIROUSIA. BOT. PHAN. Thunberg (prodr. Flor. Capens.) a ainsi altere le nom du Lapeyrousia, genre etabli en l'honneur de Picot de Lapeyrouse. " In other words, Thunberg changed the name originally set up in honor of Picot de Lapeyrouse. It does not provide who set up Lapeyrousia. There is also discussion, a bit too lengthy to display here, about the Thunberg description, the change of name by him in 1800 and his dissemination of the data to Cassini and Linne fils (Linnaeus). My point is that of history and who the genus was named for - the reason for this thread. Matters realating to Botanical Latin rules for naming genera after people constitute a totally different matter. Stearns was however consistent with the Dictionnaire when he said that Lapeirousea was named after de Lapeyrouse. Andrew From frewintp@gmail.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: terry frewin Subject: another rain lily Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 18:23:53 +1100 yes - prolifically!! On Sun, Feb 5, 2012 at 5:39 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Possibly a Zephyranthes grandiflora before it opens properly? But the > grandiflora has a white throat. Does it set seed Terry? > > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > On 5/02/2012 7:30 p.m., terry frewin wrote: > > Thanks Ina and Alberto for the id on the 'copper' rain lily. > > Here's another - also a volunteer - also very prolific. Gorgeous colour, > > yellow throat > > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/bohovalleyplants/6820049669/in/photostream > > thanks Terry > > > > > > > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- terry frewin 661 upper boho road boho 3669 03 5790 8635 0429 908 635 From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Ipheion uniflorum hardiness Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 07:32:00 +0000 I can confirm hardiness at these conditions for Ipheion uniflorum too. Plants evolve to survive the most extreme condidions they may encounter. Even if this only needed once in a thousand years, in their natural habitat, -a useful fact for gardeners. Peter (UK) 2012/2/4 Jacek Zwoliński I can confirm full hardines in the following conditions: -20 C night/ -15 C day for 10 days continuously without snow cover (last winter). _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 05 Feb 2012 09:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328457994.96211.YahooMailNeo@web84514.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 08:06:34 -0800 (PST) Thanks, Andrew, for that detailed response. You're right, I misunderstood the purpose of your post. I thought that by that time in the progress of this thread we had already established without contention that the genus was named for Picot de Lapeyrouse.By then the issue (for me at least) had moved on to the question of why the name was spelled the way it is.  Your citation of a pasage from a book dealing precisely with orthography reinforced this misunderswtanding. Thanks for being patient and bearing with me.   Now, does anyone want to take up the orthographic issues? I'm not referring to the ei/ey issue, but rather to the question of why the name is spelled Lapeirousia (in seeming violation of the rules)  rather than Lapeirousea?    Jim McKenney From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 05 Feb 2012 09:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328458487.76671.YahooMailNeo@web84518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: a computer issue, was :Re: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 08:14:47 -0800 (PST) Sorry about the typos in that last post. Yesterday I had some issues with my computer and resorted to online help. It was necessary for me to give them permission to access my computer remotely. They were able to fix the probelm, but when I rebooted and began to use my computer I gradually realized that several applications were not working they way they had before the help. For instance, my email was opening differently.   Also missing: the spell check function for email.   So, after typing that message and seeing no red, I sent it off. Then I remembered the email issue and took a careful look. Now the red in on my face.   Jim McKenney From marygastil@yahoo.com Sun, 05 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1328475054.9577.YahooMailNeo@web161501.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Gastil Subject: Germination experiment nicking Pasithea caerulea Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 12:50:54 -0800 (PST) I am interested in what results others have had with their seed germinated from recent BX's. Some have no sign of germination while others were easy. Here are results from my micro-scale backyard experiment to test whether to nick Pasithea caerulea seeds prior to sowing. More of the nicked seeds emerged earlier, with green shoots at 30 days. 15 seeds were divided into 3 sets. As of today, the number germinated are:     (A) un-nicked fridge 1 of 5.     (B) nicked outdoor 5 of 5.     (C) un-nicked outdoor 1 of 4. (1 lost to mildew before sowing.) Timeline: 19 Dec 2011 - seeds arrived from PBS BX 299-4 from N. Nguyen. 25 Dec 2011 - started 5 seeds on damp paper in fridge-night/room-day.* 2 Jan 2012 - nicked 5 seeds* and soaked those in one dish and 5 un-nicked seeds in a separate dish. 4 Jan 2012 - sowed 5 nicked and 4 un-nicked directly into bulb box outdoors.* (I discarded one of the un-nicked seeds because it appeared to have mildew.) At some un-recorded date between 13-20 Jan,  one seed in fridge dish put out a root-like thing (coleorhiza?). Since it had a brown bottom-edge I thought it was not viable; however, I left it alone. 25 Jan 2012 - green shoot emerged from that one germinated seed in fridge dish. 26 Jan 2012 - planted that seedling between the two rows of nick/un-nicked seeds, which had not emerged yet. Its shoot was already > 3 mm and root 8 mm long.* http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/6769175201/in/set-72157629188499393/ Then we had some warm days, even reaching 80 F, and some cold nights with frost, and a rain storm. 1 Feb 2012 - I first noticed P. caerulea sprouts. The nicked row had shoot heights above ground of 0.2, to 1.0 cm while the un-nicked row had one sprout 0.7 cm tall. 4 Feb 2012 - five sprouts in the nicked row and still only one sprout in the un-nicked row.* 5 Feb 2012 - sprouts 1.1 to 1.3 cm tall in the nicked row, only one sprout 1.3 cm in un-nicked row, and fridge sprout 1.5 cm. 5 Feb 2012 - none of the remaining 4 seeds in the fridge-night/room-day dish have sprouted. * means photographed.http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/sets/72157629188499393/ The easy conclusion is that nicking speeds germination. An alternative conclusion is that the un-nicked batch have mildew. Or, the slate divider shades the nicked row from sun so they remained more moist. With a total sample size of 15 this is hardly real science, but fun nonetheless. Prior to this experiment, I read here: http://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/HighResPages/EH0542.htm that Pasithea coerulea (spelling at ChileFlora) grows naturally in a climate similar to mine and is "very easy to cultivate". The PBS wiki page explains the difference in spelling. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Pasithea - Gastil Mild Mediterranean 9b/10a Sunset 24+frost, near coast, 34 deg N. PS: Direct-sowing to non-sterile medium risks damp-off.  (None of my outdoor bulb seeds have had damp-off - yet - so I was unaware of that risk.) From totototo@telus.net Sun, 05 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F2E9112.20738.5884@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Patron saint of Lapeirousia Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 14:24:18 -0800 On 5 Feb 2012, at 8:06, Jim McKenney wrote: > we had already established without contention that the genus was named for Picot > de Lapeyrouse.By then the issue (for me at least) had moved on to the question > of why the name was spelled the way it is. At one time, the international code for the naming of plants specified that the name was the name as originally published, whether or not it was good Latin or not, whether or not it agreed with the spelling of the eponym. However, one edition of the code in relatively recent years changed this in two regards: 1. names had to be good Latin, hence Crocosmia masonorum, named after the Masons (note plural) became C. masoniorum. Something to do with the correct Latinisation of Mason (if there is such a thing) would be "Masonius", not "Masonus". 2. Names had to be spelled in agreement with the eponym. [Warning: I'm running on dimly recollected mentions in the horticultural literature. I reserve, as always, the right to be spectacularly wrong. Corrections are welcome.] My own opinion is that such changes were b.s. Though Latinate in form, botanical names are really just arbitrary, often made-up words and it is silly to expect them to conform to the linguistic conventions of the ancients. It may be that these provisions have since been reversed. Historical side note: there was an English botanist in the late 1700s or early 1800s who was very much of the opinion that botanical names were arbitrary. He made up generic names that meant nothing at all, though Latinate in form. Somewhere along the line, his commonsense, clear-sighted approach was rebuffed by the classicists and his names declared invalid. I don't remember the name of this offender against classical rectitude; can someone fill in the knowledge gap, please? -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <003a01cce4f8$ecf1e580$c6d5b080$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Germination experiment nicking Pasithea caerulea Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 09:58:24 -0800 Nice work! And thank you for sharing your results. Mike San Jose, CA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Ipheion uniflorum hardiness Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 18:19:58 +0000 Hi Jacek. People in Europe confirmed hardiness to -24 C. That is the current record, to my knowledge. Many thanks for this useful information. Yes, Ipheion uniflorum inhabits low hills where winter is harsh and windy. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: another rain lily Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 18:24:09 +0000 Looks very much like the tomato red of Zephyrantehs katherinae, provided you took the photo at the right reference time, that is when the anthers open totally to let the pollen visible. From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F30208E.8030008@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: another rain lily Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2012 07:48:46 +1300 Does Z. katherinae have yellow centre Alberto? Ina On 7/02/2012 7:24 a.m., Alberto Castillo wrote: > Looks very much like the tomato red of Zephyrantehs katherinae, provided you took the photo at the right reference time, that is when the anthers open totally to let the pollen visible. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: another rain lily Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 19:01:29 +0000 Yes, or not, but there are several color forms, hence the name "Jacala Rainbow". Of all those only the yellow and the tomato red seem to remain alive in cultivation. From leo@possi.org Mon, 06 Feb 2012 18:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <293758180577d53abec98e7325400184.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Plant benches in strong sun Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 16:08:07 -0800 (PST) Dylan Hannon replied to me: > I have found the following product to be excellent > in full sun in the Los Angeles area: > http://structuralplastics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_6_89 Hi, Dylan, and thanks for the source. I was commenting on the general topic of shelving, and the problems with wood in intense sun. I have a few benches similar to the above but wider: 8 feet by 4 feet (2.5m x 1.25m.) I can move them myself with difficulty due to their weight and size. I do like them for sun durability but they are relatively fragile if not carefully supported. They have molded recesses aligned in rows to fit the tubular legs, along the center and sides. Each 4 x 8 bench is designed to accomodate thirteen legs. Rather than dealing with all those legs, I place the benches over three 2" x 4" x 8' boards (the standard board for framing buildings in the USA, 5cm x 10.1cm x 2.5m) running lengthwise, each board spanning the bench along a line where a row of tubular legs should fit. Without the center board I have had these benches break in the middle under load. Leo Martin From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 01:46:46 -0800 Hi everyone : ) I wonder if any of you has been unfortunate enough to know the answer to this question,,, If a healthy fresh crinum seed starts a small root, & it gets broken off, can it grow another one ? Steven Esk Queensland Australia From bulborum@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 10:52:47 +0100 It depends where it broke I think crinum roots divide easily so try it Roland 2012/2/7 steven hart : > If a healthy fresh crinum seed starts a small root, & it gets broken off, > can it grow another one ? -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pcamusa@hotmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Amorphophallus perrieri Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 08:09:55 -0500 Just ran across this new amorphophallus report- http://www.physorg.com/news/2012-02-amorphophallus-smaller-species-madagascar-roadkill.html The article notes other amorphallus can be scented like anise, or chocolate. Anyone know which species they refer to? Thanks, Phil From jshields@indy.net Tue, 07 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120207083256.033ed0f0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2012 08:36:00 -0500 Mostly, once the first root coming out of a Crinum seed is broken, that's the end for that seed. Very rarely, I've seen crinum seeds with two shoots, and I believe (but have not dissected to see) that this is because there were two embryos in that seed. Jim Shields At 10:52 AM 2/7/2012 +0100, you wrote: >It depends where it broke >... >Roland > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From alanidae@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 08:48:56 -0500 Hi Steve - I definitely have been there. This is probably too much information but in attempt to be clear, I am going to risk over doing it. Each embryo can only produce one radical, so a single seed can only sprout once. However, this is tricky with Crinum because the fleshy seeds can be so tight fused together that what appears to be a single seed is in fact more than one seed and in such a case it will appear as if a single seed is producing multiple radicals. There is something else to keep in mind however which is the wiry root-like structure that appears from a Crinum seed is almost not root. The very tip of the projection is the radical which will form the basal plate from whence the roots will grow. This portion appears as a slightly different colored tip to the projection. The rest of the the elongating stem like structure that appears to be a root is actually a modified cotyledon and homologous to the first embryonic leaves. As you have probably seen the first true leaves emerge from a slit in this stem after the seed is most shriveled. This generally after the radical has been worked into the substrate by the elongating modified cotyledon and the area above the radical had begun to swell forming the bulb as nutrients are transferred from the seed. Depending on the species the actual roots will begin to grow from the basal plate at different points. Some species grow extensive true roots quickly like Crinum luteolum while others form a nice bulb but few roots after the seed is totally dried up. So back back to you question. When the root it snapped off of a Crinum seed, it is a little more that it appears. I don't know if it is possible for a single Crinum seed to have multiple embryos which might allow it to produce addition radicals, but otherwise it should not be able to do that. -- Alani Davis Tallahassee, Florida From bulborum@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 14:51:32 +0100 Possible Jim I was just thinking that because crinum roots can divide for example Crocus and Hyacinth roots don't divide as far as I know I will give it a test this summer Roland 2012/2/7 J.E. Shields : > Mostly, once the first root coming out of a Crinum seed is broken, that's > the end for that seed.  Very rarely, I've seen crinum seeds with two > shoots, and I believe (but have not dissected to see) that this is because > there were two embryos in that seed. -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From bulborum@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 06:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 14:54:57 +0100 2012/2/7 Alani Davis : > Hi Steve - > I definitely have been there. This is probably too much information My post crossed the Alani one his reaction explained a lot Thanks Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 14:48:41 +0000 I have recieved Crinum seeds which had sprouted in transit, they were interlocked and tangled with tissue paper. some got damaged when I disentangled them. The ones with a very *little* damage to the 'coloured tip' did in fact grow but very slowly, producing tiny plants. They are getting stronger now, after 6 or 8 months. Peter (UK) From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 07 Feb 2012 12:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <1328639519.85994.YahooMailNeo@web84520.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Iris lazica Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 10:31:59 -0800 (PST) Iris lazica is blooming today in one of my cold frames. Two unnamed accessions of the related I. unguicularis have also been blooming. Reticulate irises are also starting to bloom in the open. And the garden has lots of snowdrops and tommies in bloom. Look up and you'll see the red flowers of witch hazels, and off in corners are winter honeysuckle and winter sweet in bloom.    What's missing is typical winter weather. High 50s F are predicted for today, and the long range forecast suggests that the mild weather will continue right through the week, maybe until the middle of the month.    Many garden hellebores are in full bloom: there is a limit to how much cold they can take at this stage.    Other than tommies, things are quiet on the crocus front - that's a puzzle. I hope the explanation for that is not lots of fat, fecund mice!    Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871º North, 77.09829º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org . From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 12:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 10:52:21 -0800 I wish I had made note of when my Nerine undulata began to bloom. I think it was a bit before Christmas, and it is still blooming. It has a head of six pale pink flowers with wavy petal margins. Three of the six have begun to shrivel, but the other three are still fresh- looking. It is in a little pot in my unheated greenhouse which adjoins the house, so I can enjoy it throughout the day by just glancing out a window. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada cool mediterranean climate moderate dry summers, moderate rainy winters 68 cm rain (27 in) From lakedees@aol.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB3F5028AA7CE-1BB0-44BE@web-mmc-m03.sysops.aol.com> From: Lakedees Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 16:17:19 -0500 (EST) Mine bloom outside in zone 7a around october and blooms last into December with snow on ground. Undulata is much more hardy then thought and has made it now four years outside up against unheated foundation wall and blooms every year. George Liberty,NC Zone 7a -----Original Message----- From: Diane Whitehead To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2012 1:53 pm Subject: [pbs] long-blooming Nerine undulata I wish I had made note of when my Nerine undulata began to bloom. I hink it was a bit before Christmas, and it is still blooming. ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1328650959.21592.YahooMailNeo@web84511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 13:42:39 -0800 (PST) George, do you grow Nerine bowdenii and N. sarniensis? And if so, do they bloom regularly  for you?   Both grow well in a cold frame for me here in zone 7a Maryland, but they are very erratic about blooming. Nerine sarniensis has been outside in that cold frame 24/7/365 since 2005. It has bloomed three times during that period.   Amaryllis belladonna has been in the same frame for just as long and has become a corpulent space hog - and has yet to bloom even once.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871º North, 77.09829º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org . From robin@no1bird.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 17:02:47 -0500 but where or where do you buy them in the US A? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lakedees" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 4:17 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] long-blooming Nerine undulata > > Mine bloom outside in zone 7a around october and blooms last into December > with snow on ground. Undulata is much more hardy then thought and has made > it now four years outside up against unheated foundation wall and blooms > every year. > > George > Liberty,NC > Zone 7a > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Diane Whitehead > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2012 1:53 pm > Subject: [pbs] long-blooming Nerine undulata > > > I wish I had made note of when my Nerine undulata began to bloom. I > hink it was a bit before Christmas, and it is still blooming. > ______________________________________________ > bs mailing list > bs@lists.ibiblio.org > ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Crinum seed question ? Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 15:10:13 -0800 Thank you Jim, It has only happened a couple of times in the mail & i just plant them anyway. but have never noticed the result. I have also seen the two roots occasionally & even had one with 3 roots, it was quite an interesting tangle & it produced 3 leaves, but the weakest one wilted away quite quickly & the other two continued to grow : ) Steven Esk Queensland Australia On Tue, Feb 7, 2012 at 5:36 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: Mostly, once the first root coming out of a Crinum seed is broken, that's the end for that seed. Very rarely, I've seen crinum seeds with two shoots, and I believe (but have not dissected to see) that this is because there were two embryos in that seed. Jim Shields From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <20120207233555.03E64E8A4D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Northern California bulb meeting Date: Tue, 07 Feb 2012 15:35:58 -0800 Hi, In the past some of the members of this group who live within driving distance of the San Francisco Bay area have met at the meetings of the California Horticultural Society when there was a speaker talking about bulbs. This is true of their February 20, 2012 meeting so I am providing detail for anyone who might be interested. February 20, 2012 Meeting Bulbs of South Africa by Ernesto Sandoval Do you like bulbs? Ernesto Sandoval, director of the UC Davis Botanical Conservatory, will be talking about his experience growing South African bulbs. Come see his photographs and learn about the diversity in foliage and flower, as well as the horticultural needs of these bulbs and some of the reasons why South Africa has so many of them. Also, Ernesto will be bringing bulbs and other botanical beauties for you to buy for benefit of your garden and that of the Botanical Conservatory. Nerine, Lachenallia, Albuca, Cyrtanthus and an assortment of other bulbs including a few CA natives will be available, as well as less common aloes and other succulents from South Africa and elsewhere. Nearly all of these species are quite suitable for and tested in Northern California. Monthly meetings are held at the San Francisco County Fair Building, Ninth Avenue at Lincoln Way in Golden Gate Park. Free parking is available behind the San Francisco County Fair Building on Lincoln Way. Each meeting you can attend one or more of these events: 4:00 pm – Botanical gardens walk with the featured speaker. Meet at the entrance to the San Francisco Botanical Garden. 5:30 pm – No-host dinner will take place at Park Chow Restaurant, located at 1240 Ninth Avenue in San Francisco. 7:15 pm – Announcements, Plant Forum, and Program Meeting will be held at the San Francisco County Fair Building. Cal Hort members may attend for FREE. Non-members – a donation of $5 is requested. From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 16:26:11 -0800 On 7-Feb-12, at 2:02 PM, Robin Carrier wrote: > but where or where do you buy them in the US A? I bought seed from South Africa. Diane From robin@no1bird.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 18:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 20:17:00 -0500 oh ----- Original Message ----- From: "Diane Whitehead" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 7:26 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] long-blooming Nerine undulata > > On 7-Feb-12, at 2:02 PM, Robin Carrier wrote: > >> but where or where do you buy them in the US A? > > > I bought seed from South Africa. > > Diane > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 07 Feb 2012 21:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris lazica Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 22:47:34 -0600 >Iris lazica is blooming today in one of my cold frames. Two unnamed >accessions of the related I. unguicularis have also been blooming. Dear Jim McK and all, Your lazica and unguilares are way ahead. I am close to - if not at the limit - but I unguiculares should open its first flower the next sunny day and no buds visible on lazica yet. No reticulata flowers, but many leaves poking up. Hope to see flowers ln I cretensis too. Fingers crossed. These are all in the ground and not in cold frames. >Other than tommies, things are quiet on the crocus front - that's a puzzle. Our first was C. sieberi 'Firelfy' - then 'Bowles White' followed by ancyrensis and then tommies, but just a few. Still anticipating a better show here too. Narc. 'Cedric Morris' has been open about 5 weeks and is just now looking sad and fading. Meanwhile 'Rynfeld's Early Sensation' is coming on strong and blooming by the dozen. Eranthis are about done and Adonis is well up, but not showing color yet. My few Cyclamen have fared as good as any winter and foliage is not badly damaged as usual. Even a single Rosmary plant in a cool part of the garden is surviving - this is a unique event. We too have this very odd weather. No winter to speak of, but wondering what's coming -Snow and freezes in April or may? IS it spring? Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 00:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Iris lazica and others Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 22:33:45 -0800 Tis the season for early Iris blooms for sure. Temperatures have been in the low 60's in Seattle, forcing an array of blooms on Iris unguicularis 'Frances Wormsley'. Another fine Lady iris blooming now is I.histriodes Sheila Ann Germany, a fine introduction! There are several Junos in the coldframe, much slower coming along. A Narcissus cross I made last year, N. bulbocodium obesus X N. bulbocodium 'Jessamy' is in bud and will flower this week. Quite a shock, as I"ve only sown the seed last year. If only the Narcissus 'Empress of Ireland' crosses were that quick. Spring is such an exciting season! Rick K From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 03:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <4F323237.9060104@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Scadoxus katherinae Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2012 21:28:39 +1300 Someone asked if I would post a photo when it is in full flower, so here it is: https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/WhatIsFlowering?authkey=Gv1sRgCPifoLab_pObogE#5706678084554105938 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From ds429@comcast.net Wed, 08 Feb 2012 06:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1478147824.1016476.1328707985114.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Doubts about germinate bulbs plants Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 13:33:05 +0000 (UTC) ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "Gerardo Nieto" To: ds429@comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2012 10:26:43 PM Subject: PBS website contact:Doubts about  germinate bulbs plants This is a message from the PBS website for dellsherk. Hello! I have bought  some seeds of Albuca namaquensis Geissorhiza corrugata Moraea pritzeliana (old name Gynandriris) Moraea serpentina Whiteheadia bifolia Zantedeschia aethiopica \"Green Goddess\" and I want to know, If you can help me, please, where can I find information about growing  bulbs from seed?, what about the tempeature growing rate?, and how many days it take to germinate? Thanks for your prompt response Regards -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From santoury@aol.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 06:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB47FBFA5EDD7-196C-BD6@web-mmc-d04.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Doubts about germinate bulbs plants Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 08:50:27 -0500 (EST) Hi, I have not had luck with Albuca, but the others, sow shallowly, and kept moist, and they will grow like gangbusters. Best of luck! Jude From bulborum@gmail.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 06:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Doubts about germinate bulbs plants Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 14:53:35 +0100 Albuca germinates here in a few weeks sometimes in less as a week 20ºC after germinating cold Roland 2012/2/8 The Silent Seed : > Hi, > I have not had luck with Albuca, -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From lakedees@aol.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 09:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB48B1D56C1E4-F88-220B@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> From: Lakedees Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 10:11:49 -0500 (EST) I grow both of these but they bloom very seldom but grow great.Nerine Stefani blooms for me each year late in the season. The Amaryllis belladonna sometimes bloom great for me but I have discovered that the ones that have Brunsvigia genetics bloom more frequently and are more freeze resistance. I also now grow several types of Brunsvigia outside after I saw Tony Avent growing them outside without protection. -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 7, 2012 4:42 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] long-blooming Nerine undulata George, do you grow Nerine bowdenii and N. sarniensis? And if so, do they bloom egularly for you? oth grow well in a cold frame for me here in zone 7a Maryland, but they are ery erratic about blooming. Nerine sarniensis has been outside in that cold rame 24/7/365 since 2005. It has bloomed three times during that period. maryllis belladonna has been in the same frame for just as long and has become corpulent space hog - and has yet to bloom even once. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com ontgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871º North, 77.09829º West, USDA zone y Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com http://www.jimmckenney.com/> LOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ ebmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS ditor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org ebmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org http://www.potomaclilysociety.org/> . ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 09:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Doubts about germinate bulbs plants Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 08:07:06 -0800 Hi Dell, You can direct your contact to seed growing resource on the wiki: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/HowToGrowBulbsFromSeed Best, Nhu On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 5:33 AM, wrote: > and I want to know, If you can help me, please, where can I find > information about growing bulbs from seed?, what about the tempeature > growing rate?, and how many days it take to germinate? > From email@ruthbierhoff.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 09:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <54D82D854E67465AA67E30DFF4B35100@bierhoffcjj14d> From: "Ruth Bierhoff" Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 11:09:04 -0500 Nerine undulata is available at Lazy S'S Nursery in Virginia. They're a first class nursery that send plants in excellent condition. Ruth Bierhoff Recently changed to Zone 7b. In central North Carolina. Probably 100+degreesF to 10 degreesF From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 15:32:33 -0500 Jim: Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? Thanks. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 11:48 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica >Iris lazica is blooming today in one of my cold frames. Two unnamed >accessions of the related I. unguicularis have also been blooming. Dear Jim McK and all, Your lazica and unguilares are way ahead. I am close to - if not at the limit - but I unguiculares should open its first flower the next sunny day and no buds visible on lazica yet. No reticulata flowers, but many leaves poking up. Hope to see flowers ln I cretensis too. Fingers crossed. These are all in the ground and not in cold frames. >Other than tommies, things are quiet on the crocus front - that's a puzzle. Our first was C. sieberi 'Firelfy' - then 'Bowles White' followed by ancyrensis and then tommies, but just a few. Still anticipating a better show here too. Narc. 'Cedric Morris' has been open about 5 weeks and is just now looking sad and fading. Meanwhile 'Rynfeld's Early Sensation' is coming on strong and blooming by the dozen. Eranthis are about done and Adonis is well up, but not showing color yet. My few Cyclamen have fared as good as any winter and foliage is not badly damaged as usual. Even a single Rosmary plant in a cool part of the garden is surviving - this is a unique event. We too have this very odd weather. No winter to speak of, but wondering what's coming -Snow and freezes in April or may? IS it spring? Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 15:54:20 -0500 I've grown Iris cretensis (aka: Iris unguiculares ssp cretensis) in the ground in southwestern Ohio for about 9 years. It has dwindled recently due to competition from other perennials, but it's delightful when it's warm enough to bloom on Christmas Day and New Years day. No other iris I've grown comes close to blooming that time of year. The big flush comes in March. Bill Shearer of Virginia taught me it was cold hardy about 10 years ago, and I've been delighted ever since. I should note that my clumps are within a few feet of the house... so they are getting some added protection from that. Dennis in Cincy (Zone 6-ish) From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 15:58:23 -0500 Dennis: Fascinating. Any idea of the minimum lows without snow during that time? Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dennis Kramb Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 3:54 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica I've grown Iris cretensis (aka: Iris unguiculares ssp cretensis) in the ground in southwestern Ohio for about 9 years. It has dwindled recently due to competition from other perennials, but it's delightful when it's warm enough to bloom on Christmas Day and New Years day. No other iris I've grown comes close to blooming that time of year. The big flush comes in March. Bill Shearer of Virginia taught me it was cold hardy about 10 years ago, and I've been delighted ever since. I should note that my clumps are within a few feet of the house... so they are getting some added protection from that. Dennis in Cincy (Zone 6-ish) From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 16:29:56 -0500 minimum temp without snow? nahh... i don't track that sort of thing. :-/ Sorry! Dennis in Cincy On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 3:58 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > Dennis: > > Fascinating. Any idea of the minimum lows without snow during that time? > > > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 15:44:07 -0600 >Jim: > >Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. >lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without >snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? >Thanks. Dear Tony, If you are astounded so am I. They are both in the ground and both have bloomed last year. Both were planted as established plants grown in the cool gh for a year, then planted out in our clay soils on a south facing slope near the house and given a light airy mulch of dry leaves, or pine straw this 'winter'. I think this is their 3rd year, but 2nd winter to bloom in the ground. Last winter got to -6 F and extended number of days below both 0 and more below freezing. Really pretty harsh for us lately. We had quite a bit of damage on some marginal plants, but not on these two. Last year we added I cretensis which is also looking pretty good, but may be too small to flower. Thanks Jane. Buds have emerged from their sheaths on I unguiculares recently, but no progress yet on I lazica. We expect it will bloom fine, too. Both plants came from Wildwood Gardens of Will Plotner in OR. http://www.wildwoodgardens.net/other_species_%20&_species_crosses.htm Will hand carried plants to us during the AIS convention in spring '09. We tried these in other spots before, but seem to have found the microclimate they tolerate. Fingers remain crossed, but shows the truth behind believing in hardiness until you have killed it 3 x -or more. These are both in front of a lovely and also "tender' bed of Tetrapanax papyriferus. Wonderful plant. Just want a variegated version. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 15:45:30 -0600 >minimum temp without snow? nahh... i don't track that sort of thing. :-/ Dear Tony, We did have some snow cover last winter when it got so cold, but none at all this year. OUr coldest to date has been around 7 or 8 F. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328737693.44613.YahooMailNeo@web84509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 13:48:13 -0800 (PST) Tony asked: "Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? Thanks."   The short answer: yes, they are in the ground, but they are in the ground either inside cold frames or otherwise well protected.   The Iris lazica and one of the Iris unguicularis are in cold frames. These cold frames are right against the SSW side of the house. The plants are not in pots; they are planted into the ground, the local stuff is a loamy clay. The cold frames are opened on most days and closed whenever the temperature is predicted to drop below freezing (there are lots of other things in these frames, some probably freeze tender). If the temperature is predicted to drop below 25 degrees F (minus 3.8 C ), a double ply plastic tarp is spread over the frames. We have experienced air temperatures as low as 3 degrees F (about minus 16 degrees C) outside the frames.   I don't use thermometers, but to give you an idea of how well protected these frames are, Zephyranthes grandiflora goes through the winter in full leaf without any foliage damage. Three of the Chilean Tropaeolum go through the winters without any folaige damage. Cyclamen cyprium has made itself at home in one frame.   There is a space about one foot wide beteween these two frames. In that space, and right against the house wall, grows a second plant of Iris unguicularis. The only protection this one gets is the double ply tarp cover. This plant has been longer establisehd than the other and now flowers freely.   The older Iris unguicularis has been in place since 2005, and the Iris lazica came from Jane McGary in 2007.    There is also a clump of Iris cretensis in one of the frames; it is growing well but has yet to bloom.     All of these iris take their time in getting established in my experience - typically they are in the ground for three years before they start to bloom.   I have several friends in nearby northern Virginia, about ten to fifteen miles south of here as the crow flies, who successfully grow both Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the open garden. I know that one of the Iris lazica clumps is out in the open in a completely unprotected place. And as I recall the I. unguicularis plants are planted about five feet out from a wall of  the house but otherwise not protected. As of yesterday, their Iris lazica were not blooming yet. The new zip code locater says two of us are zone 7a, a third is zone 7b.   One reason I use the cold frames is that they simulate the snow cover which we rarely get for long.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871º North, 77.09829º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org .     ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Avent To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Cc: Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2012 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica Jim: Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the ground?  If so, what temps have these survived without snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground?  Thanks. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina  27603  USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website  http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax  919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 11:48 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica >Iris lazica is blooming today in one of my cold frames. Two unnamed >accessions of the related I. unguicularis have also been blooming. Dear Jim McK and all,         Your lazica and unguilares are way ahead. I am close to - if not at the limit - but I unguiculares should open its first flower the next sunny day and no buds visible on lazica yet. No reticulata flowers, but many leaves poking up. Hope to see flowers ln I cretensis too. Fingers crossed.         These are all in the ground and not in cold frames. >Other than tommies, things are quiet on the crocus front - that's a puzzle.         Our first was C. sieberi 'Firelfy' - then 'Bowles White' followed by ancyrensis and then tommies, but just a few. Still anticipating a better show here too.         Narc. 'Cedric Morris' has been open about 5 weeks and is just now looking sad and fading.  Meanwhile 'Rynfeld's Early Sensation' is coming on strong and blooming by the dozen.  Eranthis are about done and Adonis is well up, but not showing color yet. My few Cyclamen have fared as good as any winter and foliage is not badly damaged as usual. Even a single Rosmary plant in a cool part of the garden is surviving - this is a unique event.         We too have this very odd weather. No winter to speak of, but wondering what's coming  -Snow and freezes in April or may?                 IS it spring?          Best            Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph.    816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F         Summer 100F + From jmsjon664@aol.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 15:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB4C6F171B5DE-5F0-27D5@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> From: "James L. Jones" Subject: Iris unguicularis Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 17:20:05 -0500 (EST) Re Iris unguicularis: For a number of years I've grown it in the ground in an entryway greenhouse that goes to 15oF, where it blooms off and on through the winter, and I guess whenever else it feels like it. More recently I put it in a sunhouse that goes to 0oF (pretty weird, huh?). also in the ground. It hasn't bloomed yet but is doing nicely. It is less floriferous in pots in the bigger greenhouse, 32oF min. temp. I've recently started shearing off the leaves in late summer to show off the flowers -- it didn't seem to hurt the plants but otherwise hasn't had much affect. Jim Jones Lexington, MA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 08 Feb 2012 18:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2012 16:54:45 -0800 At my former garden in the Cascade foothills, where winter lows were usually about 15 F and occasionally a few degrees lower, I grew Iris lazica and I. cretensis in the ground in well-drained soil, and they suffered no damage and flowered well. I had one clump of I. unguicularis in the bulb frame, where most of it still is because I can't pry it out of the ground, and one in a raised planter sheltered by a deck. I. lazica seems to grow best with some afternoon shade (it is very drought-tolerant), but it flowered better in full sun. I. cretensis got a little shade in the morning. I moved the latter to my new garden and planted it on a steep bank (a situation where it is seen in the wild) because the soil is poorly drained. I haven't brought I. lazica yet, and I. unguicularis is temporarily in a raised sand bed until I find a better place for it. SPeaking of irises, last fall I bought some Pacific Coast hybrid irises that were shipped to me bare-root. I planted them in a well-drained spot the day they arrived, but the majority of them have failed to grow. Never again! Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 21:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 21:34:28 -0500 Jim: Great information. The variegated tetrapanax root suckers green, so it would be a nightmare unless it could be grafted. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 4:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica >Jim: > >Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. >lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without >snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? >Thanks. Dear Tony, If you are astounded so am I. They are both in the ground and both have bloomed last year. Both were planted as established plants grown in the cool gh for a year, then planted out in our clay soils on a south facing slope near the house and given a light airy mulch of dry leaves, or pine straw this 'winter'. I think this is their 3rd year, but 2nd winter to bloom in the ground. Last winter got to -6 F and extended number of days below both 0 and more below freezing. Really pretty harsh for us lately. We had quite a bit of damage on some marginal plants, but not on these two. Last year we added I cretensis which is also looking pretty good, but may be too small to flower. Thanks Jane. Buds have emerged from their sheaths on I unguiculares recently, but no progress yet on I lazica. We expect it will bloom fine, too. Both plants came from Wildwood Gardens of Will Plotner in OR. http://www.wildwoodgardens.net/other_species_%20&_species_crosses.htm Will hand carried plants to us during the AIS convention in spring '09. We tried these in other spots before, but seem to have found the microclimate they tolerate. Fingers remain crossed, but shows the truth behind believing in hardiness until you have killed it 3 x -or more. These are both in front of a lovely and also "tender' bed of Tetrapanax papyriferus. Wonderful plant. Just want a variegated version. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 08 Feb 2012 21:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 21:50:49 -0500 Jim: More great info...thanks. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 4:48 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica Tony asked: "Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? Thanks." The short answer: yes, they are in the ground, but they are in the ground either inside cold frames or otherwise well protected. The Iris lazica and one of the Iris unguicularis are in cold frames. These cold frames are right against the SSW side of the house. The plants are not in pots; they are planted into the ground, the local stuff is a loamy clay. The cold frames are opened on most days and closed whenever the temperature is predicted to drop below freezing (there are lots of other things in these frames, some probably freeze tender). If the temperature is predicted to drop below 25 degrees F (minus 3.8 C ), a double ply plastic tarp is spread over the frames. We have experienced air temperatures as low as 3 degrees F (about minus 16 degrees C) outside the frames. I don't use thermometers, but to give you an idea of how well protected these frames are, Zephyranthes grandiflora goes through the winter in full leaf without any foliage damage. Three of the Chilean Tropaeolum go through the winters without any folaige damage. Cyclamen cyprium has made itself at home in one frame. There is a space about one foot wide beteween these two frames. In that space, and right against the house wall, grows a second plant of Iris unguicularis. The only protection this one gets is the double ply tarp cover. This plant has been longer establisehd than the other and now flowers freely. The older Iris unguicularis has been in place since 2005, and the Iris lazica came from Jane McGary in 2007. There is also a clump of Iris cretensis in one of the frames; it is growing well but has yet to bloom. All of these iris take their time in getting established in my experience - typically they are in the ground for three years before they start to bloom. I have several friends in nearby northern Virginia, about ten to fifteen miles south of here as the crow flies, who successfully grow both Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the open garden. I know that one of the Iris lazica clumps is out in the open in a completely unprotected place. And as I recall the I. unguicularis plants are planted about five feet out from a wall of the house but otherwise not protected. As of yesterday, their Iris lazica were not blooming yet. The new zip code locater says two of us are zone 7a, a third is zone 7b. One reason I use the cold frames is that they simulate the snow cover which we rarely get for long. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.03871º North, 77.09829º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org . ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Avent To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Cc: Sent: Wednesday, February 8, 2012 3:32 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica Jim: Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? Thanks. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 11:48 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica >Iris lazica is blooming today in one of my cold frames. Two unnamed >accessions of the related I. unguicularis have also been blooming. Dear Jim McK and all, Your lazica and unguilares are way ahead. I am close to - if not at the limit - but I unguiculares should open its first flower the next sunny day and no buds visible on lazica yet. No reticulata flowers, but many leaves poking up. Hope to see flowers ln I cretensis too. Fingers crossed. These are all in the ground and not in cold frames. >Other than tommies, things are quiet on the crocus front - that's a puzzle. Our first was C. sieberi 'Firelfy' - then 'Bowles White' followed by ancyrensis and then tommies, but just a few. Still anticipating a better show here too. Narc. 'Cedric Morris' has been open about 5 weeks and is just now looking sad and fading. Meanwhile 'Rynfeld's Early Sensation' is coming on strong and blooming by the dozen. Eranthis are about done and Adonis is well up, but not showing color yet. My few Cyclamen have fared as good as any winter and foliage is not badly damaged as usual. Even a single Rosmary plant in a cool part of the garden is surviving - this is a unique event. We too have this very odd weather. No winter to speak of, but wondering what's coming -Snow and freezes in April or may? IS it spring? Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From paige@hillkeep.ca Thu, 09 Feb 2012 00:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Pacific Coast Iris survival, was Iris lazica Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2012 20:29:08 -0800 Jane, how disappointing for you! > Speaking of irises, last fall I bought some Pacific Coast hybrid > irises that were shipped to me bare-root. I planted them in a > well-drained spot the day they arrived, but the majority of them have > failed to grow. Never again! Guessing wildly, I wonder if their roots were not too dry, perhaps from bare-rooting onward. I don't know where you got them, or how they were bare-rooted and shipped, or exactly how you planted them. But because your voice has such weight in this PBS list, I feel that I must speak up on behalf of Pacific Coast Irises (PCIs). Hybrids and species have about the same, simple needs. PCIs grow well, travel well bare-rooted if the roots are kept moist (there are many methods); transplant well. I have shipped lots of them with never a complaint. I've also transplanted lots here in my Zone 6 garden in SW British Columbia, about a zone N of their current range (I imagine that they carry more hardiness in their genes than has recently been called upon, or may be called upon for some time). Clambering around in PCI territory, I have noticed that although these plants do grow in "well-drained soil", water trickles through it. It is often sloping, but it is not always made of the garden equivalent of grit. Where rainfall is low, these irises settle into a clay, or claylike, substrate below meadow or scree. The point is that their roots do not dry out. A couple of years ago in the Siskiyous and N California I collected seeds of PCIs whose flowers, with their diagnostic perianth tubes and such, had just faded. I could not know for sure what species they were. I still don't know; I'll find out this spring and next. But the seedlings, now robust, remain where they germinated, in a deep tray of very open mix that has never been allowed to dry out. The surface may be dry but down deep, the roots are moist. Paige Paige Woodward paige@hillkeep.ca www.hillkeep.ca From: "Jane McGary" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2012 4:54 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica > At my former garden in the Cascade foothills, where winter lows were > usually about 15 F and occasionally a few degrees lower, I grew Iris > lazica and I. cretensis in the ground in well-drained soil, and they > suffered no damage and flowered well. I had one clump of I. > unguicularis in the bulb frame, where most of it still is because I > can't pry it out of the ground, and one in a raised planter sheltered > by a deck. > > I. lazica seems to grow best with some afternoon shade (it is very > drought-tolerant), but it flowered better in full sun. I. cretensis > got a little shade in the morning. I moved the latter to my new > garden and planted it on a steep bank (a situation where it is seen > in the wild) because the soil is poorly drained. I haven't brought I. > lazica yet, and I. unguicularis is temporarily in a raised sand bed > until I find a better place for it. > > SPeaking of irises, last fall I bought some Pacific Coast hybrid > irises that were shipped to me bare-root. I planted them in a > well-drained spot the day they arrived, but the majority of them have > failed to grow. Never again! > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 03:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Iris lazica Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 09:14:45 +0000 Iris lazica, cretensis, and unguicularis were all unharmed here last winter with prolonged freezing below 0F. I grow I lazica in shade where it flowers well in April. both in damp and dry places. In hotter positions I find it dies out after a few years. Iriss unguicularis seemed to sulk in the Spring after such a cold winter. Pacific Coast Iris divisions do well potted deep with loose garden compost in Automn. They need to develop roots before they are allowed to freeze. Iris douglasii derivitives seem toughest. It is best to use large divisions. They die very quickly in pots if they run out of food. I have had problems with bare root purchases too. Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 12:54 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > At my former garden in the Cascade foothills, where winter lows were > usually about 15 F and occasionally a few degrees lower, I grew Iris > lazica and I. cretensis in the ground in well-drained soil, and they > suffered no damage and flowered well. > > I. lazica seems to grow best with some afternoon shade (it is very > drought-tolerant), but it flowered better in full sun. I. cretensis > got a little shade in the morning. > > SPeaking of irises, last fall I bought some Pacific Coast hybrid > irises that were shipped to me bare-root. I planted them in a > well-drained spot the day they arrived, but the majority of them have > failed to grow. Never again! > > From bulborum@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 06:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: BX 292 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 12:59:00 +0100 I it possible there was a little mistake with the bulbs from Mike Mace: BX 292 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost looks very much as Gladiolus are there other members with the same BX 292 nr.24 or did I made a mistake Roland -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From santoury@aol.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 06:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB547D1535A4C-1A74-589F@webmail-m068.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: BX 292 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 08:42:36 -0500 (EST) Good morning, I did not get these, but just in case, here is the original posting for 292. I, too, have gotten things that weren't what they were listed as. It's fun seeing what they DO turn into, though! Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class, priority-mail, or international postage. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact me for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mike Mace: (most supplies are quite limited) Unless otherwise indicated, these are all small corms/bulbs. 1. Allium unifolium 2. Anomatheca sp - tan and white. From Kew. 3. Babiana curviscapa 4. Babiana rubrocyanea 5. Crocus laevigatus 6. Ferraria #6. Distributed without name by the IBS. Has never bloomed for me. Let me know if you get it to bloom. 7. Ferraria #8. Originally distributed by the IBS without names, this one looks like a cream and brown form of F. crispa. Nice! 8. Ferraria #9. Originally distributed by the IBS without names, this one looks like an olive-colored F. crispa. 9. Ferraria crispa ssp. nortieri 10. Ferraria divaricata v. arenosa 11. Ferraria schaferi 12. Freesia leichtlinii 13. Geissorhiza inequalis 14. Gladiolus quadrangulus - originally from the IBS. 16. Gladiolus splendens 17. Gladiolus tristis - corms. Typical dark markings. 18. Gladiolus tristis - plain form without markings. 19. Ipheion uniflorum 20. Ipheion uniflorum 'Rolfe Fiedler' Originally from Siskiyou Rare Plants 21. Ixia flexuosa, pink. Originally from Jim Duggan. 22. Ixia maculata. Originally from IBSA. 23. Ixia pumilio 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost 25. Ixia trifolia - corms grown from seed supplied by Silverhill 26. Lapeirousia oreogena 27. Moraea vespertina. Maybe the first time this has been offered on the BX. Bob Werra very kindly gave me a small pot of this one, warning me that it would actually grow better in the ground. I thought I was getting a couple of corms but when I unpotted it I found a number of vigorous corms and many small offsets. You're getting the offsets. The mature corms are much larger than your usual Moraea, and dive deep, like a Watsonia. Also like a Watsonia, they need room in order to flower. These are winter-rainfall, summer-dry plants that grow in clay in nature. If you can't grow them in the ground, I recommend trying a very deep pot. 28. Muscari muscarimi 29. Narcissus elegans - seed. Orange-green corona. 30. Narcissus romieuxii 31. Odontostomum hartwegii 32. Romulea camerooniana (campanuliodes). Pink form. Although these are summer-growers in the wild, for me they have adapted to a winter growing schedule, blooming in early summer (around May) and then going dormant in June. Reliable and vigorous. 33. Romulea citrina 34. Romulea tabularis 35. Triteleia hyacinthia 36. Watsonia aletroides - pink. Grown from Kirstenbosch seeds. Just one corm. 37. Watsonia meriana - one corm (sorry) 38. Watsonia vanderspuyiae (grown from seed supplied by Silverhill) From Alberto Castillo: 39. Bulbs of Oziroe arida (S). The family Hyacinthaceae with so many species in Eurasia and Africa is absent in the Americas except for one small genus with four or five species, Oziroe (Fortunatia, Camassia) from warm areas of Chlle and Argentina. They demand full sun, deep planting and hot growing conditions. In O. arida flowering is in late spring/summer. Flowers are small and white and the plants resemble droughtland SA Ornithogalums. These bulbs have just finished their dormancy (in the Southern Hemisphere) and must be started at once (in the Northern Hemisphere). Grow during your autumn under warm conditions and then let them go dormant for the winter. In your late Spring start them by gradual watering to fix them to their normal dry winter dormancy pattern. Propagation is from seed and slow offsetting. From Richard Smith: (Small corms) 40. Moraea aristata 41. Moraea hybrids, yellows and oranges 42. Moraea lurida 43. Moraea vegeta 44. Moraea villosa, 'Champagne Ice' strain 45. Moraea sisyrinchium Thank you, Mike, Alberto, and Richard !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 09 Feb 2012 06:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <1328795695.29669.YahooMailNeo@web84506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Iris lazica Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 05:54:55 -0800 (PST) Peter(UK) wrote: "Iris lazica, cretensis, and unguicularis were all unharmed here last winter with prolonged freezing below 0F."   Peter, where in the UK are temperatures below 0F  (minus 18 C) experienced?   Jim McKenney From prallen2@peoplepc.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 09:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <32284548.1328800580535.JavaMail.root@wamui-bucket.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: patty allen Subject: Iris lazica Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 09:16:20 -0600 (GMT-06:00) All, My Iris unguicularis have been blooming for a month or more down here in Southeast Texas, about to bloom out. Patty Allen Bayou City Heirloom Bulbs Humble, Texas -----Original Message----- >From: James Waddick >Sent: Feb 8, 2012 3:44 PM >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Iris lazica > >>Jim: >> >>Did I understand that you are growing Iris unguicularis and I. >>lazica in the ground? If so, what temps have these survived without >>snow cover and how many years have you had them in the ground? >>Thanks. > >Dear Tony, > If you are astounded so am I. They are both in the ground and >both have bloomed last year. Both were planted as established plants >grown in the cool gh for a year, then planted out in our clay soils >on a south facing slope near the house and given a light airy mulch >of dry leaves, or pine straw this 'winter'. I think this is their 3rd >year, but 2nd winter to bloom in the ground. Last winter got to -6 F >and extended number of days below both 0 and more below freezing. >Really pretty harsh for us lately. We had quite a bit of damage on >some marginal plants, but not on these two. > > Last year we added I cretensis which is also looking pretty >good, but may be too small to flower. Thanks Jane. > > Buds have emerged from their sheaths on I unguiculares >recently, but no progress yet on I lazica. We expect it will bloom >fine, too. > > Both plants came from Wildwood Gardens of Will Plotner in OR. >http://www.wildwoodgardens.net/other_species_%20&_species_crosses.htm >Will hand carried plants to us during the AIS convention in spring >'09. > > We tried these in other spots before, but seem to have found >the microclimate they tolerate. Fingers remain crossed, but shows the >truth behind believing in hardiness until you have killed it 3 x -or >more. These are both in front of a lovely and also "tender' bed of >Tetrapanax papyriferus. Wonderful plant. Just want a variegated >version. > > Best Jim W. > >-- >Dr. James W. Waddick >8871 NW Brostrom Rd. >Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 >USA >Ph. 816-746-1949 >Zone 5 Record low -23F > Summer 100F + > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From totototo@telus.net Thu, 09 Feb 2012 09:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <4F337D82.4244.2D5980@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Iris lazica Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 08:02:10 -0800 On 8 Feb 2012, at 16:54, Jane McGary wrote: > Speaking of irises, last fall I bought some Pacific Coast hybrid > irises that were shipped to me bare-root. I planted them in a > well-drained spot the day they arrived, but the majority of them have > failed to grow. Never again! Last fall, the municipality reconstructed a big storm sewer running right across my front garden. This involved excavating a trench at least 12' wide and up in places 10' deep. (Yes, it was a horror show. If I had deep pockets and a litigious nature, I'd sue.) Among the plants I salvaged was a large clump of Iris thompsonii. In the process of extricating it from the ground, numerous fragments broke off. I dibbled the ones with a growing point into a deep flat, gave it a good watering, put it under cover out of the rain, and have left it alone. It appears that the vast majority of these little divisions have established, but I'll leave them in the flat for another year so their root systems have time to develop. I did much the same with Iris unguicularis, but in that case, simply tucked the divisions into the soil of my I.u. bed. Those also seem to be establishing nicely. In both cases I cut the foliage back to just a few mm long. Moral: summer-dormant rhizomatous irises can be divided successfully in the fall and will establish if the divisions are ***immediately*** replanted. In Jane's shoes, I'd check to see if the rhizomes are still sound. If so, be patient. They may not start to grow until this coming fall. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 12:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Iris lazica Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 18:04:56 +0000 Derbyshire last winter, the diesel waxed in fuel lines in Belper and minimum temperatures read -20 C nightly in Darley Abbey, Derby. I am quite sure that the "High Peak" in Derbyshire was several degrees colder due to altitude, (Buxton area). My sister gardens there and grows both Iris lazica and unguicularis. It was a very unusual winter for Britain and the coldest of my life time. Most records seem to be written for the south of Britain which is rarely as cold, or for as long. When Britain gets clear skys and air from the north east, rather than from the Atlantic, we can be reminded of our latitude. Peter, where in the UK are temperatures below 0F (minus 18 C) experienced? > > Jim McKenney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 12:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <003c01cce762$2de49c70$89add550$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Pacific Coast Iris survival Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 11:36:53 -0800 To share my two cents here... I've experimented with growing a fair number of Pacific Coast hybrid Irises over the years. With my heavy soil and relatively warm climate, I find that I have to give a lot of attention to mail-order (bare root) transplants in order to get them established. In particular, that means preparing the soil carefully (good drainage is needed at the start), soaking the plants in water + fungicide before planting, and then watering with a fungicide mixture after they go in the ground. They have to be kept moist until they get established. And I can only transplant in October, at the beginning of the rainy season. If I do all those things, most of the plants survive to bloom at least once. But many of them mysteriously die out a couple of years after I get them, no matter what I do. A friend who breeds Pacificas told me that longevity is not one of the characteristics that some of the top breeders shoot for. Plus a lot of the breeding is done in Santa Cruz, which has one of the most benign climates you can imagine. He expects to lose 50% or more of the new hybrids he obtains, and he's an expert grower. On the other hand, some of the old classics like Drive You Wild settle in and grow happily here for decades. http://www.pacificcoastiris.org/seedex/images/DriveYouWild-1.jpg If you can find the right cultivars, these things are incredibly rewarding and carefree (in my climate). So, if you're looking to grow PCI hybrids, my rules of thumb are: --Treat for fungus. --Rehydrate the plants before they go in the ground. --Buy selections that have been around for a number of years, rather than the latest hot thing. Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 12:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <003d01cce763$f7a472f0$e6ed58d0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: BX 292 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 11:49:41 -0800 Roland wrote: >> I it possible there was a little mistake with the bulbs from Mike Mace: BX 292 24. Ixia trifolia - source information lost looks very much as Gladiolus are there other members with the same BX 292 nr.24 or did I made a mistake I'm very sorry for the trouble. Those corms were from a pot that bloomed the previous summer, so I know there were Ixia trifolia in the pot. But if you're seeing Gladiolus leaves, they you probably have Gladiolus. If that's the case, they are probably G. tristis. I've had problems with them setting seeds into nearby pots. Most likely what happened is that some G. tristis seed blew into the pot and had germinated but not bloomed yet, and I mistook them for Ixia corms (you'd think I would know the $)(&@ difference!). When they bloom, please let me know what they actually are. Same thing applies to everyone else -- if I gave you something that's misidentified, please let me know so I can do better in the future. Sorry, Mike PS: Roland, please send me your mailing address and I'll send you some I. trifolia corms this summer. And I'll make sure they are the real thing. From pelarg@aol.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 15:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB58D61AC2868-1A40-C217@webmail-m134.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Pacific Coast Iris in NY Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 17:00:34 -0500 (EST) I have some PCI here in Tuckahoe NY and a few started in Chappaqua in my school garden. They are all started from seed, the one time I tried divisions they failed, they were shipped in spring but we had an unusual early warm spell right after I got them in the ground which I am sure is what prevented them from reestablishing so they died. The oldest ones from NARGS seeds are reliable bloomers, I like their dwarf habit and pretty much ignore them (except when they bloom). Some are in good well drained soil, a couple are in a rather clayey soil, and they all seem okay. More seedlings are coming along from the PCI society and they are doing well this winter, remaining green, though the older plants do die back in cold winters. I think for colder climates its best to grow them from seed, that way the cold hardy ones make it and the less hardy can be selected out by nature at a lower cost/less heartbreak to the gardener than buying plants. Now I do have to admit what I have bloomed thus far is not the latest and greatest in PCI flowers, some of those Californian things are absolutely droolworthy, but mine tend to have simpler flowers thus far. Still very nice though. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY Z6/7 more like 8 this year From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 15:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Pacific Coast Iris in NY Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 22:11:10 +0000 On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 10:00 PM, wrote: > Now I do have to admit what I have > bloomed thus far is not the latest and greatest in PCI flowers, some of > those Californian things are absolutely droolworthy, but mine tend to have > simpler flowers thus far. Still very nice though. > Ernie DeMarie > Tuckahoe NY Z6/7 more like 8 this year > Keep going; you will get some "drool worthy" plants if you persevere. You could try cosseting some 'specials' for pollen to put on your proven tough seedlings if you want to speed up the process. Peter (UK) From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Iris et al Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 17:13:58 -0800 Hi, Iris unguicularis 'Frances Wormsley has been in bloom since November, even in our 5" snow in Seattle. Yes, it is in the ground. Their is another deep violet hybrid, tag lost, but only started blooming 2 weeks ago. Iris histriodes ' Sheila Ann Germany' looks smashing next to the large blooming clump of Cyclamen coum 'Tilebarn Jan'. 2 years ago I made a cross of Narcissus Bulbocodium Obesus X N. Bulbocodium 'Jessamy'. Several of the seedlings are budded after only 2 years, and should open by the weekend. Can't wait. If only the Narc. 'Empress of Ireland' crosses were that quick. On another note, in the past it used to annoy me when something from a seed exchange turned out to be something else. However, I've received some super rare , ah hem, rogues in the packet, and look forward these surprises. In the greenhouse are 5 Lily looking plants from somewhere around BX 179, but they're not Lilies. It's great, can't wait to see who these mystery guests are. Seed exchange bloopers happen. It's not life and death, it's just seeds. RickK From msittner@mcn.org Thu, 09 Feb 2012 18:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: <20120210014148.1440FE8AFE@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's blooming in coastal Northern California Date: Thu, 09 Feb 2012 17:41:27 -0800 Hi, We continue to have an unusually dry winter for us which is blamed on La Niña. We had no rain for most of January (one of our wettest months), but finally a storm went through with rain off and on for several days which brought us 10 inches (25.4 cm) of rain in that short period. And we've had an inch of rain in February (a couple of days ago). But mostly we've had weather like they probably get in southern California. Andwe've had lots more light than usual which no doubt makes some things I grow much happier. It seems there can be a trade off when the weather is unexpected. I remember years ago when Diane Whitehead was keeping track of things that could bloom in one year from seed that Sheila Burrow from Western Australia (someone who is no longer on our list) had some amazing success which we attributed to the greater amount of light she probably had in winter. A lot of people seemed surprised by my reports from mid January. Some of those unexpected bloomers are still blooming. I've looked up (briefly) some of these things and find that some of them are blooming a bit earlier, but others are right on track. In bloom now or very recently in pots: Allium hyalinum Arum purpureaspathum Babiana purpurea Calochortus uniflorus Crocus flavus, C. gargaricus, C. malyi, C. sieberi, C. versicolor Cyclamen coum, C. pseudibericum. C. repandum is coming up in various places including far away from where it was planted. I'm so grateful to Bill Dijk for encouraging me to grow the species from seed as Cyclamen seems quite happy in my climate and leaves are coming up all over the garden in places I didn't plant it. There is also what must be a hybrid in Cyclamen coum pot as there are several different looking leaves in that pot and some usual size C. coum flowers blooming as well as some giant ones looking more like the Cyclamen you see for sale. Delphinium nudicaule Geissorhiza inaequalis Gladiolus caeruleus Hesperantha cucullata, Hesperantha paucifolia, Hesperantha humilis, H. latifolia Ixia rapunculoides Lachenalia aloides quadricolor Moraea tricolor Muscari neglectum Narcissus cantabricus, N. 'Smarple', N. fernandesii Nothoscordum felipponei, unidentified white Nothoscordum/Tristagma (F & W Nothoscordum sp. 8485) looks a bit like this: http://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/HighResPages/EH1267.htm Oxalis purpurea, Oxalis glabra, Oxalis obtusa, Oxalis versicolor, Oxalis namaquana Romulea kombergensis, R. tetragona Scilla greihuberi Scoliopus biglovii Spiloxene serrata, S. capensis Tecophilaea cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii, T. cyanocrocus Tristagma (Ipheion) uniflorum Triteleia hycinthina (a short form with only a short dormancy and a long bloom) In the ground: Iris unguicularis, Orthrosanthus chimboracensis, Romulea flava, Trillium ovatum, Cyclamen coum, C. pseudibericum Greenhouse: Cyrtanthus mackenii, Tropaeolum tricolor, Canarina canariensis, xHippeastrelia And seen out and about where I live various unidentified Narcissus, Oxalis pes-caprae Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 21:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: <96EEA81F-25F4-4EE2-A079-87B0BE0C888D@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: fast Narcissus seedlings - was Iris et al Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 19:30:45 -0800 On 9-Feb-12, at 5:13 PM, clayton3120 clayton3120 wrote: > a cross of Narcissus Bulbocodium Obesus X N. > Bulbocodium 'Jessamy'. Several of the seedlings are budded after > only 2 > years, and should open by the weekend. What did you do to speed them up? I used to keep rhododendron seedlings under 24 hour fluorescent lights and had some in bloom in three or four years. (others haven't bloomed yet in 40 years) Diane Whitehead Victoria British Columbia, Canada From awilson@avonia.com Thu, 09 Feb 2012 21:00:06 -0800 Message-Id: <46543903A7AF4B928F832BC01D859845@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming Feb 9 2012 (Pel. E. de Marie) Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 21:02:15 -0800 This message is primarily for Ernie de Marie. The image shown at http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6849978133/in/photostream/lightbox/ is in bloom. It is a hybrid reputedly made by Ernie. I was given this plant, and a number of other similar crosses some years ago. I was told it was a cross of P. oblongatum with P. glaucifolium, but would like to hear your word on the subject. Ernie. Thanks Andrew San Diego From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 00:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: fast Narcissus seedlings - was Iris et al Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 22:30:02 -0800 Diana, The mix is 50% pumice,50% organic compost, The get a liquid feed about every 3 weeks, and that's about it. I'm hoping this means it's a vigorous cross. I should know by the weekend. I"m floored at the prompt blooming. Oh! I also do a foliar treatment of Fulvic Acid, BAP99% and Indole-3 Butyric Acid 1%,once a month during the growing season. On 2/9/12, Diane Whitehead wrote: > > On 9-Feb-12, at 5:13 PM, clayton3120 clayton3120 wrote: > >> a cross of Narcissus Bulbocodium Obesus X N. >> Bulbocodium 'Jessamy'. Several of the seedlings are budded after >> only 2 >> years, and should open by the weekend. > > > What did you do to speed them up? > > I used to keep rhododendron seedlings under 24 hour fluorescent lights > and had some in bloom in three or four years. (others haven't bloomed > yet in 40 years) > > > > Diane Whitehead > Victoria British Columbia, Canada > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 00:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: What's blooming in coastal Northern California Date: Thu, 9 Feb 2012 23:06:39 -0800 It is always interesting for me to compare what's blooming in my garden with Mary Sue's who lives about 130 miles north of me. Some of the plants that she has blooming has not done a thing for me and some that have finished blooming for me months ago are starting for her. So far this year I have a few things that bloomed for the first time from seeds after 4 years. I am so pleased to see them bloom for the first time. It is the magic of bulb growing. Zephyranthes "datensis" - I received seeds as this species (from central Brazil) but there is no such name in any plant database. There is a Habranthus datensis but I don't think this plant is a Habranthus. Please comment if you know the ID. It bloomed from seeds after 3 years. I suspect that if I had a warmer summer, it could bloom in 2 years. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850308905 Asphodelus acaulis http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6845301021 Romulea komsbergensis - first time blooming, 4 years from seeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850309625 Romulea monadelpha - ffirst time blooming, 4 years from seeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850310265 Romulea hirta - seeds came from the PBS 2007 seed sale, 5 years to bloom from seeds. Could have been quicker if I had treated it better. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850310773 Tropaeolum brachyseras and T. tricolor http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850311853 Nhu On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:41 PM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > I've looked up (briefly) some of these things and find that some > of them are blooming a bit earlier, but others > are right on track. > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 00:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Attention Everyone : Re: possible mistaken consignment of Botryococcus braunii Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:32:39 +1000 Hello Everyone... This is a very strange question, but i know some of you have been talking about Algae on seed trays lately... I don't know what was discussed because its not of any interest to me & i simply deleted the messages.. But something very strange happened today, i was contacted by quarantine about a bio security issue from USA Someone sent to my name & address, 2 vials of a toxic algae called Botryococcus braunii, it came from a company in USA called Matrix co 2761 Dean circle Omaha Nebraska 68105 I couldn't imagine how they would get my name & address & why it would be sent to me, but, the conversations about algae sprung to mind & i wondered if it might have been a special sample, sent by someone from PBS to me by mistake, as a sample to be tested or something like that, so in case it might be important, i thought i would let you all know. If any one is missing 2 vials of Toxic Botryococcus braunii algae, which usually grows on lakes & is of interest to the bio fuel industry, you now know where it went, Quarantine have confiscated it to be analyzed & then destroyed.. If anyone knows anything or can find an email address for this company please let me know : ) Steven Esk Queensland Australia From robin@no1bird.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 09:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <9EB2529821CD45618DCCDDEE967BDF5B@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: What's blooming in coastal Northern California Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 09:29:03 -0500 maybe you've told us beefore, but it's hard to keep track - waht zone are you? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nhu Nguyen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 2:06 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming in coastal Northern California > It is always interesting for me to compare what's blooming in my garden > with Mary Sue's who lives about 130 miles north of me. Some of the plants > that she has blooming has not done a thing for me and some that have > finished blooming for me months ago are starting for her. > > So far this year I have a few things that bloomed for the first time from > seeds after 4 years. I am so pleased to see them bloom for the first time. > It is the magic of bulb growing. > > Zephyranthes "datensis" - I received seeds as this species (from central > Brazil) but there is no such name in any plant database. There is a > Habranthus datensis but I don't think this plant is a Habranthus. Please > comment if you know the ID. It bloomed from seeds after 3 years. I suspect > that if I had a warmer summer, it could bloom in 2 years. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850308905 > > Asphodelus acaulis > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6845301021 > > Romulea komsbergensis - first time blooming, 4 years from seeds. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850309625 > > Romulea monadelpha - ffirst time blooming, 4 years from seeds. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850310265 > > Romulea hirta - seeds came from the PBS 2007 seed sale, 5 years to bloom > from seeds. Could have been quicker if I had treated it better. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850310773 > > Tropaeolum brachyseras and T. tricolor > http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850311853 > > Nhu > > On Thu, Feb 9, 2012 at 5:41 PM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > >> I've looked up (briefly) some of these things and find that some >> of them are blooming a bit earlier, but others >> are right on track. >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From faeden4444@sbcglobal.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 09:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <1328892132.25741.YahooMailRC@web83603.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: Attention Everyone : Re: possible mistaken consignment of Botryococcus braunii Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 08:42:12 -0800 (PST) That address is for a residence, not a business:  http://www.trulia.com/homes/Nebraska/Omaha/sold/57758-2761-Dean-Cir-Omaha-NE-68105.  According to the Verizon Superpages, someone named Michael Grant lives there:  http://wp.superpages.com/results.php?ReportType=34&qa=2761+Dean+Circle&qc=Omaha&qhn=2761&qi=0&qk=10&qs=NE&qst=DEAN+CIR. Hope this helps. Marilyn Pekasky ________________________________ From: steven hart To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, February 9, 2012 11:32:39 PM Subject: [pbs] Attention Everyone : Re: possible mistaken consignment of Botryococcus braunii Hello Everyone... This is a very strange question, but i know some of you have been talking about Algae on seed trays lately... I don't know what was discussed because its not of any interest to me & i simply deleted the messages.. But something very strange happened today, i was contacted by quarantine about a bio security issue from USA Someone sent to my name & address,  2 vials of a toxic algae called Botryococcus braunii, it came from a company in USA called Matrix co 2761 Dean circle Omaha Nebraska 68105 I couldn't imagine how they would get my name & address & why it would be sent to me, but, the conversations about algae sprung to mind & i wondered if it might have been a special sample, sent by someone from PBS to me by mistake, as a sample to be tested or something like that, so in case it might be important, i thought i would let you all know. If any one is missing 2 vials of Toxic Botryococcus braunii algae, which usually grows on lakes & is of interest to the bio fuel industry, you now know where it went, Quarantine have confiscated it to be analyzed & then destroyed.. If anyone knows anything or can find an email address for this company please let me know  : ) Steven Esk Queensland Australia From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's blooming in coastal Northern California Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:30:44 +0000 A pertinent question Robin, though there is some clue in the subject heading. Please would you delete the excess of the message to which you are replying though. Peter (UK) On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 2:29 PM, Robin Carrier wrote: > maybe you've told us beefore, but it's hard to keep track - waht zone are > you? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Nhu Nguyen" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Friday, February 10, 2012 2:06 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] What's blooming in coastal Northern California > > > > It is always interesting for me to compare what's blooming in my garden > > with Mary Sue's who lives about 130 miles north of me. > From ksayce@willapabay.org Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <8495B9C7-3210-400E-892E-9EC21C578771@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Pacific Coast Iris Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 09:33:37 -0800 The Society for Pacific Coast Native Iris is redoing its website this year, and one of the topics under discussion right now is promoting good plant handling practices by commercial growers. From what I've been reading on this group site, we do need to post a best practices section for commercial growers on our new website. Several commercial growers ship PCIs in pots, sending them out only when plants are actively growing and have sturdy roots. I've been the recipient of plants in pots and bare root plants both, and the potted ones do much better in my garden. Granted, I live within the native range of at least one species in this group, and garden on sand, which is an advantage. As for gardeners like Ernie in NY, yes, growing from seed, and starting with our hardiest species, I. tenax and I. innominata, is a good way to get PCI going in your gardens. The one climate that PCI cannot tolerate is very damp, hot, humid summers, which puts the southeastern US out, except at higher elevations. We have society members who have had at least some successes with PCI in most other areas of the United States that are zone 6 or warmer, and even some zone 5 growers who are in warmer microclimates. Like a number of members, I'm doing my own hybridizing, starting with the hardiest species, to work towards showy plants that have more cold tolerance than most of the present hybrids. I recommend growing from seed to anyone outside the West Coast, unless you have a very similar climate to the coast, and a commercial grower who will ship you plants in the fall in pots, when roots are in active growth. Cheers Kathleen From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:52:16 -0600 Dear Friends, Just starting with the first sunny days in a week, a pot full of the double flowered Oxalis compressa. The bright yellow flowers have a dozen or more petals about an inch across. Each stem bears up to half dozen flowers so it makes quite a show. No pic on the wiki. Do others grow this variety ? Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 09:57:37 -0800 Hi Jim, We actually do have 2 photos on the wiki for this species. More would be nice :) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanOxalisTwo#compressa Nhu On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 9:52 AM, James Waddick wrote: > No pic on the wiki. Do others grow this variety ? > From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <1328898851.20669.YahooMailClassic@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: Nhu's N. Coastal California Blooms Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 10:34:11 -0800 (PST) Nhu Nguyen: Thanks for: Romulea komsbergensis - first time blooming, 4 years from seeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850309625 Romulea monadelpha - first time blooming, 4 years from seeds. http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6850310265 I think I'll try looking for these!  Though the slugs and squirrels here love Tulips; perhapsnot these ones! DanNear Lake Washington, Seattle7b From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 13:07:14 -0600 > >We actually do have 2 photos on the wiki for this species. More would be >nice :) >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanOxalisTwo#compressa > >Nhu Dear Nhu, There are no pictures of the double flowered form I was referring to. The single is very nice yellow, but the double flowered form has many bright yellow petals and looks very different. I took another search and found no pics op the wiki. I did find this one http://www.flickr.com/photos/dabi_cake/2966580832/ Just not on our PBS wiki. So does any one grow this Double flowered O. compressa? Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <577C66BD-7762-4E51-AB41-F645E5F11B33@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: fast Narcissus seedlings - was Iris et al Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:14:40 -0800 On 9-Feb-12, at 10:30 PM, clayton3120 clayton3120 wrote: > The get a liquid feed about every 3 weeks, > Oh! I also do a foliar treatment of Fulvic Acid, BAP99% and Indole-3 > Butyric Acid 1%,once a month during the growing season. > "Liquid feed" I can understand, but what is that foliar treatment? Is it a fertilizer? Do you mix it yourself? Diane Whitehead From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <4F356F94.6040402@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:27:16 -0800 I grow the double one and just posted a pic. on the blog: www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com Diana > Dear Friends, > Just starting with the first sunny days in a week, a pot full > of the double flowered Oxalis compressa. The bright yellow flowers > have a dozen or more petals about an inch across. Each stem bears up > to half dozen flowers so it makes quite a show. > > No pic on the wiki. Do others grow this variety ? > > Best Jim From bulborum@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:28:02 +0100 I just collected the Oxalis pes-caprae flore plena for the second time in Sicily and I saw it one time in South Portugal (Algarve) The flower looks similar as your Oxalis compressa var.'Flore Pleno' Is this a synonym for Oxalis pes-caprae flore plena ?? Roland >        Just not on our PBS wiki. So does any one grow this Double > flowered O. compressa? -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <4F357176.2070205@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:35:18 -0800 I honestly don't know if the double one I have is O. pes caprae or O. compressa. Since there are no stamens, stigma, seed, etc. I think it's hard to tell for sure which one it is. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com > I just collected the Oxalis pes-caprae flore plena > for the second time in Sicily > and I saw it one time in South Portugal (Algarve) > The flower looks similar as your Oxalis compressa var.'Flore Pleno' > Is this a synonym for Oxalis pes-caprae flore plena ?? > > Roland > > >> Just not on our PBS wiki. So does any one grow this Double >> flowered O. compressa? > > > From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3573BE.8090702@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: yellow form of Zephyranthes katherinae Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 08:45:02 +1300 Does anyone have the yellow form of Zephyranthes katherinae? -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From xerantheum@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 12:00:12 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:50:35 -0800 Jim, whoops, I misread your comment. I actually have some plants that came from you. They did not like the little bit of frost this winter though. I think they'll be ok but probably will not flower for me until next year so I won't have photos to contribute to the wiki until then. Diana, here is an interesting aside in floral development. Sepals, petals, and stamen are all modified leaves. During development, the meristem tissue differentiate into the sepals, petals, and stamens. If they differentiate by mistake, the stamens can be turned into petals. This is the case with hybrid roses and as you observed in the Oxalis = all of the stamens have been turned into petals. This is called the ABC model of floral development. Nhu On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 11:35 AM, Diana Chapman wrote: > I honestly don't know if the double one I have is O. pes caprae or O. > compressa. Since there are no stamens, stigma, seed, etc. I think it's > hard to tell for sure which one it is. > From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3578B3.9060203@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 09:06:11 +1300 Would Scaduxus katherinae grow in the garden in zone 8-9 if it was mulched in the winter? -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From santoury@aol.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB64788E3B74C-E20-3924@webmail-m068.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:13:06 -0500 (EST) Hi, Plantdelights lists them at 7b-10, so you should be able to pull this off. From alanidae@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:26:00 -0500 Hello Ina I grow it in Zone 8 in northern Florida with no extra attention for cold protection. Though it does get mulched with oak leaf mulch it is not necessarily before the cold season or that thick. I tend to mulch all my beds at least every other year. Temperatures when it freezes here are rarely lower than 16-17 degrees F though it has gotten down to 13-14 occasionally. Rarely do below freezing temperatures sustain for 24 hours however, it may freeze several nights in a row and many times a winter in a colder winter. Under these conditions this Scadoxus sp. has done well and bloomed annual for 15 years or more for me, no troubles. In fact they produce a fair number of offsets. I have always been surprised at how how hardy it is as it "looks" tender I would think in zone 8-9 it should do fine for you. I don't think my clone is anything special. -- Alani Davis Tallahassee, Florida From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:30:09 +0000 could you comment on our winter rainfall please Alani? Peter (UK) On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 8:26 PM, Alani Davis wrote: > Hello Ina > > I grow it in Zone 8 in northern Florida with no extra attention for > cold protection. > From arnold140@verizon.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <29659261.185711.1328908277567.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: fast Narcissus seedlings - was Iris et al Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:11:17 -0600 (CST) Diane: Have a look. http://www.plantsandstuff.com/Products.html Arnold "Liquid feed" I can understand, but what is that foliar treatment? Is it a fertilizer? Do you mix it yourself? Diane Whitehead From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <410-220122510215758421@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 16:57:58 -0500 > > Just not on our PBS wiki. So does any one grow this Double > flowered O. compressa? > I do. Ex. PBS 192; vigorous but not abloom, yet. The primary O. show here this week are obtusa with purpurea waning. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA USDA 8a Pea planting time in the Albemarle From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1328913753.17393.YahooMailClassic@web160702.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: foliar treatment: of Fulvic Acid, BAP99%, Indole-3 Butyric Acid Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 14:42:33 -0800 (PST) Diane Whitehead Is this foliar treatment mix Fulvic Acid, BAP99% and Indole-3 > Butyric Acid  1% your own concoction?  Or do you find it retail somewhere? Thanks, DanNear Lake Washington in Seattle 7b From robin@no1bird.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <9E16C7B130534BE4AEA5EA99B83281EA@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: What's blooming in coastal Northern California Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 17:47:09 -0500 sure ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Taggart" > Please would you delete the excess of the message to which you are > replying \> From pslate22@yahoo.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1328915399.57805.YahooMailNeo@web111902.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: Double Oxalis compressa Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:09:59 -0800 (PST) I have grown it here in Arizona and it did very well.  I thought it was lovely and had it in one of my conrete raised planters.  Unfortunately, when I decided to replace the dirt in that planter, that plant went out with the old dirt mix.  So I'm watching the BX for it and hope someone has some extras to donate.   By the way, there are 64 cubic feet of dirt in seven of the twelve concrete block planters in my shade/screen house.  One has slightly less and four have 96 cubic feet in each.  The mix is sandy loam, compost and pumice and has excellent drainage.  We mix it with a small Mantis tiller, one of the best little work horses in the gardening world.   Glad you brought it up, Jim, and thanks, Nhu, for the interesting info on the compounding flowers.   Pamela Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: foliar treatment: of Fulvic Acid, BAP99%, Indole-3 Butyric Acid Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:11:31 -0800 Clayton 3120, who lives in Seattle, wrote that he sprays it on his narcissus hybrid seedlings every week, and some of them are about to bloom even though they are only two years old. This is phenomenally fast for narcissus. I asked about it and Arnold posted a website that shows where it can be bought. The chemicals appear to be used most often for intensive horticulture like tissue culture. They don't appear to be sold as a mixture, so Clayton must be putting them together. Diane On 10-Feb-12, at 2:42 PM, Daniel Kerr wrote: > Diane Whitehead > Is this foliar treatment mix Fulvic Acid, BAP99% and Indole-3 >> Butyric Acid 1% > your own concoction? Or do you find it retail somewhere? From bulborum@gmail.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 00:21:58 +0100 How deep do you plant the top of your Scadoxus katherinae bulb under the soil Roland 2012/2/10 Alani Davis : -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pelarg@aol.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB663421BBAE7-2354-71F8@Webmail-d110.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: What's blooming Feb 9 2012 (Pel. E. de Marie) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:31:33 -0500 (EST) Hi Andrew (et al) The plant in the photo actually is an unknown hybrid created at the NYBG which I gave the unofficial name of "Magenta Fragrant". It is unusual in that it appears to have a section Otidia species in its ancestry (something like one of the various things that goes around as P carnosum) and another one, maybe a purple form of P echinatum, which was also at the NYBG for many years by the time I got there in 1991. An odd thing is that it is sweetly fragrant at certain times of the day, a rare trait in pelargoniums It is tough as nails (believe me, to have survived as long as it did at NYBG in those days it had to be) yet it is a magnet for white flies (but they die when it drops its leaves for summer dormancy). I could find no clear indication of who hybridized it and what its ancestry was while I was at the NYBG. When I did my research on pelargoniums at Cornell as a grad student, and later had less extensive but still good collection at the NYBG where I was Curator of the Des ert Collections, I exchanged plants regularly with Carol Roller and Mike Vassar in southern Cali (and often stayed at Carol's former place in Vista when visiting), so I imagine the plant came to you via one of them, or they were involved in the chain somehow. They did have other hybrids that I did make, and I am particularly interested in knowing if anyone is growing any of the various hybrids I made with luridum via tissue culture techniques (modified embyro rescue), as I no longer have any of them. These include luridum x incrassatum, luridum x cortusifolium, luridum x apiifolium, and luridum x sericifolium, among others. Hybrids that I made using x glaucifolium, a very old primary hybrid itself between lobatum and gibbosum, were with cortusifolium, these produced lavendar flowers on a thick stemmed plant. I still grow many pelargoniums (and have others banked as refrigerated seed), but they are under lights for the winter and don't grow nor bloom with the vigor that they do in California or in a cool greenhouse. But I do have dreams of one day growing them in one (or both) of those situations when I retire in a few years. Andrew, if you have any other hybrids you want ID on or confirmations of the ones you do have, you can send the photos to me at my regular email (pelarg@aol.com). Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe Z6/7 but solid 8 this winter thus far This message is primarily for Ernie de Marie. The image shown athttp://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6849978133/in/photostream/lightbox/is in bloom. It is a hybrid reputedly made by Ernie. I was given this plant,and a number of other similar crosses some years ago.I was told it was a cross of P. oblongatum with P. glaucifolium, but wouldlike to hear your word on the subject. Ernie.ThanksAndrewSan Diego From arnold140@verizon.net Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <8402947.201728.1328918523216.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: foliar treatment: of Fulvic Acid, BAP99%, Indole-3 Butyric Acid Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:02:03 -0600 (CST) Diane: If you scroll down the list of products there is a combination for sale. GA3 Power Pack! 5 grams GA3, 5 grams BAP, 5 grams IAA. 40grams Fulvic Acid, and full instructions and measuring scoops. Arnold From awilson@avonia.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <55F529F1FA644BD5BF9926E992209C24@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Blooming Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 19:50:11 -0800 Diana, In response to your message (below) I think what you have posted is O. compressa (double). I have posted a few shots of O. pes caprae (double) (aka O. cernua in the Wiki). The latter has has similar flowers but the leaves have markings that, so far as I know, distinguish it. http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6854625207/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6854619259/in/photostream/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewrmw/6854619233/in/photostream/ Andrew San Diego Diana Chapman (Fri, 10 Feb 2012 11:35:18 PST) I honestly don't know if the double one I have is O. pes caprae or O. compressa. Since there are no stamens, stigma, seed, etc. I think it's hard to tell for sure which one it is. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Double Oxalis compressa Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 22:09:04 -0600 Dear Friends, I do not pretend to be knowledgeable about Oxalis, but these plants came to me from a very reliable source so I have good reason to be certain of the ID. I don't grow typical compressa to compare either. I'll check foliage tomorrow and report back. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From awilson@avonia.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <71587B348F1B47B28C0C33D0E50C0623@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: What's blooming Feb 9 2012 (Pel. E. de Marie) Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:22:51 -0800 Thanks, Ernie. Glad to see your name around here. I obtained this plant, not from Mike Vassar, but from Carol Roller before she moved north to Oregon 7 or 8 years ago. The plant is indeed tough. I used to have it potted but found it did just as well planted out in a rockery here, as you can see. It began to bloom just before Christmas but in these warmer days is showing more bloms. It goes on flowering, not very heavily, for most months of the year. I have never seen whiteflies on it, but that is probably just because it is outdoors all year. In fact it is as close to bullet-proof as you can find among these tuberous pelargoniums. Carol grew all these in pots under cover in an unheated house. At the time I acquired a number of other, but similar hybrids from Carol. I will send you shots offline (unless somebody objects) as they come into bloom because the labeling on them was sketchy, to put it mildly. Some will be in bloom soon; others may start later. Weather has a decided role on when they start and for how long their season is. Many bore titles such as Pel. x glaucifolium. All have attractive, but not highly glamorous flowers. The roots of one or two were massive. Thanks for the information about possible parentage. Was P. fulgens involved in any of them? Andrew San Diego From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: foliar treatment: of Fulvic Acid, BAP99%, Indole-3 Butyric Acid Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:34:21 -0800 Hi all, Yes, you can buy these materials on ebay. It is not my concoction, and I do it MONTHLY not weekly. I've had great results, but before you go spraying everything randomly, experiment on a test patch first, and above all, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! Clayton On 2/10/12, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > Diane: > > If you scroll down the list of products there is a combination for sale. > > > GA3 Power Pack! > > 5 grams GA3, 5 grams BAP, 5 grams IAA. 40grams Fulvic Acid, and full > instructions and measuring scoops. > > > > > > Arnold > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Fri, 10 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: fast Narcissus seedlings - was Iris et al Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2012 20:46:03 -0800 Diana and All, It is a foliar spray, and I do mix it myself. The BAP( encourages branching, shoot and bud growth) must be dissolved in sodium hydroxide (Lye, in a tiny amount). The Fulvic Acid( delivers hormones and nutrients with superior results) is generally water soluable, as is the Indole3-Butyric Acid (a rooting, and growth hormone). I repeat, experiment on a test patch, follow the directions, and not fewer than 4 weeks between. I've had no adverse reactions by any plants so far, and great growth results. Does anyone else have any experience with these On 2/10/12, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > Diane: > > Have a look. > > http://www.plantsandstuff.com/Products.html > > Arnold > > > "Liquid feed" I can understand, but what is that foliar treatment? Is > it a fertilizer? Do you mix it yourself? > > Diane Whitehead > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 11 Feb 2012 09:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Libertia ixioides and cranwelliae Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:43:17 +0000 Can anyone tell me if Libertia cranwelliae is the same thing as L ixioides? If it is not, what are the differences please ? Peter (UK) From msittner@mcn.org Sat, 11 Feb 2012 09:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <20120211163626.28AAAE8B13@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Double Oxalis compressa Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 08:36:22 -0800 I have added a photo of the flowers of the double Oxalis compressa to the wiki that Ron Vanderhoff shared with me during the time we were changing the wiki that I never got added. And I've added some more photos of the single Oxalis compressa that came to me from Uli. Some of these Oxalis that have more than one flower per scape can be easily confused. In the text for Oxalis compressa on the wiki it refers to an entry from Christiaan van Schalkwyk that explains some of the differences between the look alikes. I once was given bulbs of O. pes-caprae which is a huge pest in a lot of areas of coastal California as Oxalis compressa which promptly got destroyed once I figured it out. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanOxalisTwo#compressa According to Christiaan on the wiki: Oxalis compressa can be identified by the flattened or compressed leaf stalks. Oxalis pes-caprae has a brown bulb, without conspicuous longitudinal grooves. It may or may not have a stem. The bulbs of Oxalis copiosa and Oxalis haedulipes are similar: greyish and with conspicuous longitudinal grooves. Oxalis copiosa never has a stem, while Oxalis haedulipes always has an exserted stem. Cape Plants describes O. compressa as like O. pes-caprae but petioles flattened and peduncles 3-6 flowered whereas O. pes-caprae can have up to 20 flowers. I don't know about the double forms. The O. compressa that Uli sent me is such an amazing bright yellow flower, but I haven't found it as easy to grow in my climate as I'd like. And I've never gotten the one from Alberto through the BX in 2008 to bloom. It apparently is happier in Missouri than in my conditions in California. I guess that means we won't have to worry about it escaping and taking over. I might be able to do better if it were grown inside or the greenhouse, but I don't really have space for it there. You can compare the double flowered photos of each of the flowers now on the wiki, but I'm not sure that will help in the identification: The photo supplied by Ron Vanderhoff labeled O. compressa http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Oxalis/Oxalis_compressa_Double_rv.jpg The photo supplied by Pieter van der Walt labeled O. pes-caprae http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Oxalis/Oxalis_pes-caprae_pcvdw1.jpg Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From eagle.85@verizon.net Sat, 11 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <54F66C85-91D8-4752-B4F5-01B8A0C53B8E@verizon.net> From: Douglas Westfall Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 09:41:21 -0800 On Feb 10, 2012, at 3:21 PM, Bulborum Botanicum wrote: > How deep do you plant the top of your Scadoxus katherinae bulb under > the soil > > Roland > > 2012/2/10 Alani Davis : > Roland, I've grown them for years and from seeds here in Southern California in Long Beach. I always have 3/4 inch to an inch above the soil level. Even those grown from seed seem to grow at least that high as they grow and mature. Doug Westfall From bulborum@gmail.com Sat, 11 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:16:32 +0100 > I've grown them for years and from seeds here in Southern California > in Long Beach. I always have 3/4 inch to an inch above the soil level. Thanks Doug -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Sat, 11 Feb 2012 12:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <9C364493-7896-4B88-A256-870E2F421ECE@xtra.co.nz> From: Kiyel Boland Subject: Libertia ixioides and cranwelliae Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 08:44:06 +1300 Hi Peter, a link to info on Libertia cranwelliae. http://www.nzpcn.org.nz/c/flora/factsheets/NZPCN_Species_761.pdf Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz www.savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ On 12/02/2012, at 4:43 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > Can anyone tell me if Libertia cranwelliae is the same thing as L ixioides? > If it is not, what are the differences please ? > Peter (UK) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Libertia ixioides and cranwelliae Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:05:10 +0000 Thankyou very much Kiyel, From your link I went to this page http://nzpcn.org.nz/flora_details.asp?ID=761 which indicted Libertia cranwelliae is like a stoloniferous Libertia ixioides, and that they are distinct. I have plants of L ixioides, and an unnamed Libertia which is similar but stoloniferous (also greener and more upright and likes water, it is not L perigrinans). I have recently recieved a piece of L cranwelliae so I am hoping to determine if the plant I have from an old Scottish garden is or is not L cranwelliae, and that I now have cranwelliae in either case. Peter (UK) On Sat, Feb 11, 2012 at 7:44 PM, Kiyel Boland wrote: > Hi Peter, > a link to info on Libertia cranwelliae. > http://www.nzpcn.org.nz/c/flora/factsheets/NZPCN_Species_761.pdf > From threesisters@woosh.co.nz Sat, 11 Feb 2012 15:00:10 -0800 Message-Id: <99D69394003744CFAB23BCCF44B34CEF@DarlenePC> From: Subject: Libertia ixioides and cranwelliae Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 09:09:53 +1300 Hello Peter, You may want to check on Dr. Dan Blanchon as he is the gentleman that I got my first plant of cranwelliae from. Excellent link listed below. Darlene Cook Auckland, New Zealand -----Original Message----- From: Kiyel Boland Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2012 8:44 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Libertia ixioides and cranwelliae Hi Peter, a link to info on Libertia cranwelliae. http://www.nzpcn.org.nz/c/flora/factsheets/NZPCN_Species_761.pdf Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz www.savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ On 12/02/2012, at 4:43 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > Can anyone tell me if Libertia cranwelliae is the same thing as L > ixioides? > If it is not, what are the differences please ? > Peter (UK) > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 11 Feb 2012 18:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: long-blooming Nerine undulata Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 23:53:06 +0000 Jim. Nn. sarniensis and undulata have opposite cycles of growh. From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Sun, 12 Feb 2012 06:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Ton Wijnen" Subject: what is flowering Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 13:30:11 +0100 Hallo This Hippeastrum hybrid, 1881-1, is flowering now in my greenhouse. http://www.flickr.com/photos/68714547@N08/6862105965/in/photostream The photo s make outside, see the snow!!!! Enjoy Ton Wijnen Holland From alanidae@gmail.com Sun, 12 Feb 2012 06:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 08:57:24 -0500 Winters here usually have regular rains which generally arrive ahead of cold fronts so that the colder temperatures are generally right after the rains. This link has average rainfalls in Tallahassee by month. http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/vacationplanner/vacationclimatology/monthly/USFL0479 I have planted these Scadoxus anywhere between 1-3 inches below the surface. -- Alani Davis From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:00:14 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: what is flowering Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 17:08:01 +0000 Is this a striatum hybrid Ton? Peter (UK) On Sun, Feb 12, 2012 at 12:30 PM, Ton Wijnen wrote: > This Hippeastrum hybrid, 1881-1, is flowering now in my greenhouse. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/68714547@N08/6862105965/in/photostream > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:00:14 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris unguicularis Hardiness test Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 11:42:57 -0600 Dear Friends, We have just had 2 nights where the temps went down to 6 F (-14 C) and yesterday barely made it up to freezing. My Iris unguicularis has/had one flower open and 3 buds showing full color and emerged from their sheaths/bracts. The last two days had warm sun. I had covered the plant with a clear plastic bell jar for the first time, ever. Today the plant looks essentially unchanged, but the flowers and buds are totally frozen, collapsed and lost. So clearly the flowers cannot take this extreme, but the plant looks ok. So 6 degrees is too cold for the open and opening flower buds. I am hoping the more buds are deep within the plant's crowen and later buds will emerge and bloom unharmed. Stay tuned. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 12 Feb 2012 12:00:14 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: growing Scadoxus katherinae in the garden Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2012 18:56:23 +0000 Thanks Alani Peter (UK) On Sun, Feb 12, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Alani Davis wrote: > Winters here usually have regular rains which generally arrive ahead > of cold fronts so that the colder temperatures are generally right > after the rains > From plantnut@cox.net Mon, 13 Feb 2012 15:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <5C712669-FC8E-420A-ACF8-1A89736609A5@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Need identification Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 13:16:25 -0800 A friend gave me a handful of Oxalis bulbs of which she didn't know the species. They are now blooming but need help in identifying the species. Thanks, Joe, Oceanside, CA. http://www.flickr.com/photos/oceanside2012/6870379355/ From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 13 Feb 2012 15:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Need identification Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:30:38 +0000 You have obtusa and brasiliensis there so far. From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <44AE7AADF91D45FC9A7E1059CF95836E@userfba71dce46> From: "Youngs" Subject: OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 23:02:56 -0000 PBS members must be greatly saddened to hear, as we have been in the UK, of the death of Michelle Avent, wife of PBS stalwart Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery Inc. A touching tribute to his wife and partner by Tony is paid here : http://www.plantdelights.com/February/products/879/ Our thoughts are with Tony at this sad time. M & I No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.455 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/4206 - Release Date: 02/12/12 19:34:00 From santoury@aol.com Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB8BC2DF0A74C-1F74-15463@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:13:07 -0500 (EST) I just learned of this this evening - very sad indeed. My heart goes out to Tony and his family. Jude From awilson@avonia.com Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:00:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Need identification Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:42:09 -0800 Joe, I think you have two forms of O. obtusa. That species is blooming all over in these parts right now. Check the Wiki page on this species to see the number of color variants there are. You have a nice combination there. Andrew San Diego From richrd@nas.com Tue, 14 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Richard Subject: Winter Projects Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:05:58 -0800 Nursery scale stratification This is what we are working on now at our nursery, preparing mostly tree and shrub seeds for a 90 day cold stratification and planting in May. There are many ways to accomplish this task this is just my own twist on the job. Earlier we used open top plastic bags but this gives us better aeration and ease of inspection. Here is a series of pictures that illustrates our process. rinsing presoaked seed http://flic.kr/p/btpKEK setting up tray, paper lined, peat bottom http://flic.kr/p/btpJaP fungicide dip (optional) http://flic.kr/p/btpLnK spreading seed inside sandwiched layer http://flic.kr/p/btpNSF placing seed inside sandwich http://flic.kr/p/btpM76 covering seed layer with peat http://flic.kr/p/btpJWH stacking trays inside cooler. Note warm incubator on right http://flic.kr/p/btpMMp recording all data in a filemaker relational database http://flic.kr/p/btpMYe In this screen shot from left is our field map, propagation and seed inventory databases Working with Lily seed is new for me and I have a question in my following post for lily savy stratifiers. Rich Haard Bellingham Washington From richrd@nas.com Tue, 14 Feb 2012 00:00:09 -0800 Message-Id: <9FA5584B-B614-4A58-BE6C-6355780D3D7C@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: Lily Stratification Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:08:02 -0800 Question for lily stratifiers All three are fresh collections of L. columbianum and L. washingtonianum. These are 'immediate cool hypogeal' species and were warm stratified 30 days at 50 deg f then the last 2 weeks at 40 deg F. All have begun putting out a radical some reaching considerable length with signs of leaf shoot on a few. They're growing now in mesh bags buried in moist peat. Otherwise their condition is very nice, no mold. Earlier this fall in October I field planted the same collections and this is a test to try stratification and tray planting. These radicals seem rather fragile. Is it time to move them to flats and continue chilling for another 60 days before placing outside? http://flic.kr/p/btoASZ http://flic.kr/p/btoBoZ http://flic.kr/p/btoBTR http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LilyGerminationBySpecies Rich Haard Bellingham, Washington From Zzzpuck@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <6b5e.22b01b31.3c6bf938@aol.com> From: Zzzpuck@aol.com Subject: Plants use Circadian rhytms to prepare for battle with insects Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 12:51:52 -0500 (EST) This is intriguing. Janet McGarry Plants Use Circadian Rhythms to Prepare for Battle With Insects ScienceDaily (Feb. 13, 2012) — In a study of the molecular underpinnings of plants' pest resistance, Rice University biologists have shown that plants both anticipate daytime raids by hungry insects and make sophisticated preparations to fend them off. "When you walk past plants, they don't look like they're doing anything," said Janet Braam, an investigator on the new study, which appears this week in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. "It's intriguing to see all of this activity down at the genetic level. It's like watching a besieged fortress go on full alert." Braam, professor and chair of Rice's Department of Biochemistry and Cell Biology, said scientists have long known that plants have an internal clock that allows them to measure time regardless of light conditions. For example, some plants that track the sun with their leaves during the day are known to "reset" their leaves at night and move them back toward the east in anticipation of sunrise. In recent years, scientists have begun to apply powerful genetic tools to the study of plant circadian rhythms. Researchers have found that as many as one-third of the genes in Arabidopsis thaliana -- a widely studied species in plant biology -- are activated by the circadian cycle. Rice biochemist Michael Covington found that some of these circadian-regulated genes were also connected to wounding responses. "We wondered whether some of these circadian-regulated genes might allow plants to anticipate attacks from insects, in much the same way that they anticipate the sunrise," said Covington, now at the University of California, Davis. Danielle Goodspeed, a graduate student in biochemistry and cell biology, designed a clever experiment to answer the question. She used 12-hour light cycles to entrain the circadian clocks of both Arabidopsis plants and cabbage loopers, a type of caterpillar that eats Arabidopsis. Half of the plants were placed with caterpillars on a regular day-night cycle, and the other half were placed with "out-of-phase" caterpillars whose internal clocks were set to daytime mode during the hours that the plants were in nighttime mode. "We found that the plants whose clocks were in phase with the insects were relatively resistant, whereas the plants whose clocks were out of phase were decimated by the insects feeding on them," Goodspeed said. Wassim Chehab, a Rice faculty fellow in biochemistry and cell biology, helped Goodspeed design a follow-up experiment to understand how plants used their internal clocks to resist insect attacks. Chehab and Goodspeed examined the accumulation of the hormone jasmonate, which plants use to regulate the production of metabolites that interfere with insect digestion. They found that Arabidopsis uses its circadian clock to increase jasmonate production during the day, when insects like cabbage loopers feed the most. They also found that the plants used their internal clocks to regulate the production of other chemical defenses, including those that protect against bacterial infections. "Jasmonate defenses are employed by virtually all plants, including tomatoes, rice and corn," Chehab said. "Understanding how plants regulate these hormones could be important for understanding why some pests are more damaging than others, and it could help suggest new strategies for insect resistance." In a message dated 2/14/2012 9:14:20 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org writes: Send pbs mailing list submissions to pbs@lists.ibiblio.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org You can reach the person managing the list at pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Today's Topics: 1. Need identification (Joseph Kraatz) 2. Re: Need identification (Alberto Castillo) 3. OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss (Youngs) 4. Re: OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss (The Silent Seed) 5. Need identification (AW) 6. Winter Projects (Richard) 7. Lily Stratification (Richard) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 13:16:25 -0800 From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: [pbs] Need identification To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: <5C712669-FC8E-420A-ACF8-1A89736609A5@cox.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii A friend gave me a handful of Oxalis bulbs of which she didn't know the species. They are now blooming but need help in identifying the species. Thanks, Joe, Oceanside, CA. http://www.flickr.com/photos/oceanside2012/6870379355/ ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:30:38 +0000 From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Re: [pbs] Need identification To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" You have obtusa and brasiliensis there so far. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 23:02:56 -0000 From: "Youngs" Subject: [pbs] OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss To: Message-ID: <44AE7AADF91D45FC9A7E1059CF95836E@userfba71dce46> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" PBS members must be greatly saddened to hear, as we have been in the UK, of the death of Michelle Avent, wife of PBS stalwart Tony Avent of Plant Delights Nursery Inc. A touching tribute to his wife and partner by Tony is paid here : http://www.plantdelights.com/February/products/879/ Our thoughts are with Tony at this sad time. M & I -------------- next part -------------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.455 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/4206 - Release Date: 02/12/12 19:34:00 ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:13:07 -0500 (EST) From: The Silent Seed Subject: Re: [pbs] OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: &<8CEB8BC2DF0A74C-1F74-15463@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I just learned of this this evening - very sad indeed. My heart goes out to Tony and his family. Jude ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:42:09 -0800 From: "AW" Subject: [pbs] Need identification To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Joe, I think you have two forms of O. obtusa. That species is blooming all over in these parts right now. Check the Wiki page on this species to see the number of color variants there are. You have a nice combination there. Andrew San Diego ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:05:58 -0800 From: Richard Subject: [pbs] Winter Projects To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Nursery scale stratification This is what we are working on now at our nursery, preparing mostly tree and shrub seeds for a 90 day cold stratification and planting in May. There are many ways to accomplish this task this is just my own twist on the job. Earlier we used open top plastic bags but this gives us better aeration and ease of inspection. Here is a series of pictures that illustrates our process. rinsing presoaked seed http://flic.kr/p/btpKEK setting up tray, paper lined, peat bottom http://flic.kr/p/btpJaP fungicide dip (optional) http://flic.kr/p/btpLnK spreading seed inside sandwiched layer http://flic.kr/p/btpNSF placing seed inside sandwich http://flic.kr/p/btpM76 covering seed layer with peat http://flic.kr/p/btpJWH stacking trays inside cooler. Note warm incubator on right http://flic.kr/p/btpMMp recording all data in a filemaker relational database http://flic.kr/p/btpMYe In this screen shot from left is our field map, propagation and seed inventory databases Working with Lily seed is new for me and I have a question in my following post for lily savy stratifiers. Rich Haard Bellingham Washington ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:08:02 -0800 From: Richard Subject: [pbs] Lily Stratification To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <9FA5584B-B614-4A58-BE6C-6355780D3D7C@nas.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Question for lily stratifiers All three are fresh collections of L. columbianum and L. washingtonianum. These are 'immediate cool hypogeal' species and were warm stratified 30 days at 50 deg f then the last 2 weeks at 40 deg F. All have begun putting out a radical some reaching considerable length with signs of leaf shoot on a few. They're growing now in mesh bags buried in moist peat. Otherwise their condition is very nice, no mold. Earlier this fall in October I field planted the same collections and this is a test to try stratification and tray planting. These radicals seem rather fragile. Is it time to move them to flats and continue chilling for another 60 days before placing outside? http://flic.kr/p/btoASZ http://flic.kr/p/btoBoZ http://flic.kr/p/btoBTR http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LilyGerminationBySpecies Rich Haard Bellingham, Washington ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php End of pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 26 ************************************ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Plants use Circadian rhytms to prepare for battle with insects Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 18:19:52 +0000 "For example, some plants that track the sun with their leaves during the day are known to "reset" their leaves at night and move them back toward the east in anticipation of sunrise. " Some? Rather all. This is why it is wrong to turn plants around to get a "uniform" rounded appearance for Shows. I don't know the English expression for this but with woody plants it is most important to "respect the North" when transplanting or moving them to a different spot. Meaning, they should retain the same orientation with respect to the cardinal points. From mirrog@yahoo.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <7792277ACBE247CF99D456EDE666428E@emirrojr> From: "Gene Mirro" Subject: Lily Stratification Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 10:51:12 -0800 Richard, your photos show a small percentage of germinating seeds. But in your message, you say "All have begun putting out a radical". Your stratification times of "30 days at 50 deg f then the last 2 weeks at 40 deg F" seem very short to me, and 50F seems quite cold at the beginning of the process. I usually allow at least a couple of months of cool stratification in Fall and early Winter, starting out at around 60F, followed by at least three months in Winter at 35-45F. If you shorten these times, the percent germination will go down, and some of the seeds will not germinate until a year later in Spring. I try to get as many as possible to germinate in the first Spring, since the ones that come up in the second Spring seem to be weaker, maybe due to reduction of their stored food supply. Since you are seeing signs of germination, I think you should move them to flats and cover with 1/4" of mix, and continue cold stratification. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging the radicals later on. This last Summer, I tried sowing some NW native lilies in late July. The Summer was quite cool this year, and root germination seems to be very strong. No leaves yet though, except for L. humboldti, which always emerges very early. However, I have had bad results from early sowing in hot summers, so I usually wait until September to sow. Also, I don't like to handle the germinated seeds, so I sow them directly into the containers where they are going to grow. When the leaves emerge, it is crucial to grow the seedlings cool. No 90 degree greenhouses! The higher the temp, the higher the mortality. If growing in containers, it can be very difficult to keep these plants alive in mid to late Summer because of high soil temps, even though they may have gone dormant by then. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 9:01 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 26 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Need identification (Joseph Kraatz) > 2. Re: Need identification (Alberto Castillo) > 3. OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss (Youngs) > 4. Re: OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss (The Silent Seed) > 5. Need identification (AW) > 6. Winter Projects (Richard) > 7. Lily Stratification (Richard) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 13:16:25 -0800 > From: Joseph Kraatz > Subject: [pbs] Need identification > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <5C712669-FC8E-420A-ACF8-1A89736609A5@cox.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > A friend gave me a handful of Oxalis bulbs of which she didn't know the > species. They are now blooming but need help in identifying the species. > Thanks, Joe, Oceanside, CA. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/oceanside2012/6870379355/ > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:30:38 +0000 > From: Alberto Castillo > Subject: Re: [pbs] Need identification > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > You have obtusa and brasiliensis there so far. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 23:02:56 -0000 > From: "Youngs" > Subject: [pbs] OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss > To: > Message-ID: <44AE7AADF91D45FC9A7E1059CF95836E@userfba71dce46> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > PBS members must be greatly saddened to hear, as we have been in the UK, > of the death of Michelle Avent, wife of PBS stalwart Tony Avent of Plant > Delights Nursery Inc. > > A touching tribute to his wife and partner by Tony is paid here : > http://www.plantdelights.com/February/products/879/ > Our thoughts are with Tony at this sad time. > > M & I > -------------- next part -------------- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.5.455 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/4206 - Release Date: 02/12/12 > 19:34:00 > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 18:13:07 -0500 (EST) > From: The Silent Seed > Subject: Re: [pbs] OT/ PBS contributor's tragic loss > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <8CEB8BC2DF0A74C-1F74-15463@webmail-d036.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > I just learned of this this evening - very sad indeed. My heart goes out > to Tony and his family. > Jude > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:42:09 -0800 > From: "AW" > Subject: [pbs] Need identification > To: > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Joe, > > I think you have two forms of O. obtusa. That species is blooming all over > in these parts right now. Check the Wiki page on this species to see the > number of color variants there are. You have a nice combination there. > > Andrew > San Diego > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:05:58 -0800 > From: Richard > Subject: [pbs] Winter Projects > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Nursery scale stratification > > This is what we are working on now at our nursery, preparing mostly tree > and shrub seeds for a 90 day cold stratification and planting in May. > There are many ways to accomplish this task this is just my own twist on > the job. Earlier we used open top plastic bags but this gives us better > aeration and ease of inspection. Here is a series of pictures that > illustrates our process. > > > rinsing presoaked seed http://flic.kr/p/btpKEK > setting up tray, paper lined, peat bottom http://flic.kr/p/btpJaP > fungicide dip (optional) http://flic.kr/p/btpLnK > spreading seed inside sandwiched layer http://flic.kr/p/btpNSF > placing seed inside sandwich http://flic.kr/p/btpM76 > covering seed layer with peat http://flic.kr/p/btpJWH > stacking trays inside cooler. Note warm incubator on right > http://flic.kr/p/btpMMp > recording all data in a filemaker relational database > http://flic.kr/p/btpMYe In this screen shot from left is our field map, > propagation and seed inventory databases > > Working with Lily seed is new for me and I have a question in my following > post for lily savy stratifiers. > > Rich Haard > Bellingham Washington > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 21:08:02 -0800 > From: Richard > Subject: [pbs] Lily Stratification > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <9FA5584B-B614-4A58-BE6C-6355780D3D7C@nas.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Question for lily stratifiers > > All three are fresh collections of L. columbianum and L. washingtonianum. > These are 'immediate cool hypogeal' species and were warm stratified 30 > days at 50 deg f then the last 2 weeks at 40 deg F. All have begun putting > out a radical some reaching considerable length with signs of leaf shoot > on a few. They're growing now in mesh bags buried in moist peat. Otherwise > their condition is very nice, no mold. > > Earlier this fall in October I field planted the same collections and this > is a test to try stratification and tray planting. These radicals seem > rather fragile. Is it time to move them to flats and continue chilling for > another 60 days before placing outside? > > http://flic.kr/p/btoASZ > http://flic.kr/p/btoBoZ > http://flic.kr/p/btoBTR > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LilyGerminationBySpecies > > Rich Haard > Bellingham, Washington > > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 26 > ************************************ From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <996D4243F6D544FAA4044C4C608A561A@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 18:36:52 -0500 what happens? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alberto Castillo" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 1:19 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Plants use Circadian rhytms to prepare for battle with insects > > "For example, some plants that track the sun with their leaves during the > day are known > to "reset" their leaves at night and move them back toward the east in > anticipation of sunrise. " > > Some? Rather all. This is why it is wrong to turn plants around to get a > "uniform" rounded appearance for Shows. > > I don't know the English expression for this but with woody plants it is > most important to "respect the North" when transplanting or moving them to > a different spot. Meaning, they should retain the same orientation with > respect to the cardinal points. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From leo@possi.org Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <5de1b4c80afc439992ab1fe2df61677a.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Blooming Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 15:51:51 -0800 (PST) Oxalis: luteola obtusa buttercup, polished copper, straw purpurea cherry, lavender, white Narcissus: Paperwhites, for some 6 weeks now Soleil d'or Moraea falcifolia. One or two of 6 or 7 in this container are blooming size from seed. I missed it yesterday, getting home from work too late. I have them in 20-ounce / ~450ml foam drinking cups with drain perforations with heavy local clay which I keep moist to wet all season. They spent the last summer outdoors, almost full sun, blazing heat, with rare summer rain and no supplemental watering. Lapeirousia oreogena, 4 plants which are being introduced to each other by me. Grown like the Moraea above. For those of you interested in the bulb exchange, would you like me to send the seed to Dell, or grow it for a few years and send the corms to Dell? Of course I won't be able to plant it until September 2012. Albuca navicula getting ready to bloom. I have heard good reports on the seed I sent to the BX. I thought I had lost two of my three mature bulbs because they didn't grow last season and there was a depression in the container where the plants had been. But they returned after a year's rest. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Blooming Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 23:55:22 +0000 Leo, sounds like Arizona is the place for growing Namaqualand bulbs. From pslate22@yahoo.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1329263723.95291.YahooMailNeo@web111901.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: It is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 15:55:23 -0800 (PST) Hi Robin, Probably the best known example of sun tracking (phototropism) in plants is Helianthus spp.  Here I have also seen it in A. belladonna.  However, if you are a cactus and planted during the sunniest, warmest time of year here, you would experience enormous sunburn damage.  In the better nurseries, cacti are almost always marked on their south side.    Pamela Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From othonna@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 15:58:10 -0800 Agreed with Alberto on this. It may do little or no harm to induce symmetry in, say, an African Violet for aesthetic reasons, but in general it is best to allow plants to grow to face the light as they please. This maximizes their ability to photosynthesize. There is no way humans can better a process that is controlled by the plants in this way. Aligning a plant with the main available light source-- not necessarily north or south-- is especially important for woody plants. A manzanita may never adjust itself to a natural growth pattern if its nursery directionality is "violated" when planted. This causes unnecessary stress for the plant and usually looks strange to us as well. Dylan Hannon Los Angeles CA On 14 February 2012 15:36, Robin Carrier wrote: > what happens? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Alberto Castillo" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 1:19 PM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Plants use Circadian rhytms to prepare for battle with > insects > > > > > > "For example, some plants that track the sun with their leaves during > the > > day are known > > to "reset" their leaves at night and move them back toward the east in > > anticipation of sunrise. " > > > > Some? Rather all. This is why it is wrong to turn plants around to get a > > "uniform" rounded appearance for Shows. > > > > I don't know the English expression for this but with woody plants it is > > most important to "respect the North" when transplanting or moving them > to > > a different spot. Meaning, they should retain the same orientation with > > respect to the cardinal points. > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Where there is much desire to learn, there of necessity will be much arguing, much writing, many opinions; for opinion in good men is but knowledge in the making. — John Milton, *Areopagitica: A speech for the liberty of unlicensed printing to the Parliament of England*, 1644 From leo@possi.org Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Chacun a son gout Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:02:25 -0800 (PST) Oxalis pes-caprae isn't invasive here in Phoenix. It will survive in some lawns but I grow it as a nice winter container plant. Now O. corniculata is another story. Every succulentophile struggles with this plant, and it is a weed here in any shady to partially sunny place irrigated through the year. I just found out something to do with it, however, on Wikipedia: begin quote The leaves of wood sorrel [O. corniculata] are quite edible, with a tangy taste of lemons. A drink can be made by infusing the leaves in hot water for about 10 minutes, sweetening and then chilling. The entire plant is rich in vitamin C. Any wood sorrel is safe in low dosages, but if eaten in large quantities over a length of time can inhibit calcium absorption by the body. end quote Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <1329264573.7787.YahooMailNeo@web86306.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 00:09:33 +0000 (GMT) Although I can think of ways this might stress a plant, isn't that what we do all the time by growing in unnatural conditions or parts of the world with completely different day cycles than where they come from? Turning pots is done by plant show people to get symmetrical plants. Just today at a friends she told me her Hippeastrum had fallen over and snapped off because she had forgotten to turn it.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 ish First 2012 RHS show today. Lots of snowdrops for sale  Prices >________________________________ > From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <2B838C86C333432EA34E8037DE9AE5E7@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: It is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:12:09 -0500 ah ha - i think i've got it! the sun moves around them if they stay in one place. if you move them - and i guess you have to keep moving them, the sun on them wouldn't be even??? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pamela Slate" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 6:55 PM Subject: [pbs] It is wrong to turn plants around Hi Robin, Probably the best known example of sun tracking (phototropism) in plants is Helianthus spp. Here I have also seen it in A. belladonna. However, if you are a cactus and planted during the sunniest, warmest time of year here, you would experience enormous sunburn damage. In the better nurseries, cacti are almost always marked on their south side. Pamela Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From leo@possi.org Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <40c446f7e3b192d35b47ebd4d2235488.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Namaqualand bulbs Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:14:44 -0800 (PST) Alberto Castillo wrote regarding some Moraea and Lapeirousia: > Leo, sounds like Arizona is the place > for growing Namaqualand bulbs. Interestingly, Namaqualand succulents like Aizoaceae (ice plant relatives) don't do well outdoors here in the summer. To survive outdoors they must be in quite a bit of shade and shielded from summer rains. It's too hot here at night for them in the summer, probably much warmer than they experience in habitat. A Gethyllis (probably villosa) also does fairly well here but blooms only every few years in the house. It's not self-fertile. The Aizoaceae mostly rely crassulacean acid metabolism, a variant carbon-storage metabolic pathway that doesn't work when nights are hot. It's also why we can grow almost nothing in the Crassula family here in the summer. The bulbs are sleeping away and don't seem to notice. My arid-climate bulbs are definitely moist to wet all winter, so maybe the key to success is the low humidity all year, the clay soil or both. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:26:14 -0500 very good. thanks ----- Original Message ----- From: Alberto Castillo To: robin@no1bird.com Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 7:23 PM Subject: RE: it is wrong to turn plants around They have already mentioned the process in the first message of the thread. The chloroplasts are all aligned like school children waiting for the sun before dawn and follow it about the cell, starting at the point the sun will appear and ending at the point the sun disappears, this every single day the plant is active. Dylan said it in a better English than mine. It is like a track or a fixed path. Plants can not move of course but can be very efficient at resolving inmobility problems. Since the plant can not move, chloroplasts inside the cell can move and produce the best out of the situation. Whne you move the plant around the alignment with the sun that has already been fixed for maximum yield is altered and a new path must be set. ChlorOplasts will move along tHE old track for teh first days but the angle will be wrong and photosynthesis not as efficient as was set before. And on and on. With woody plants the side that points north or south or whatever point you choose at teh nursery must point to the same point when you take it home and adaptation will be ready. Woody plants are very slow and take a lot of time for adaptation (haven't you seen "The Lord of the Rings"?). Hope this is clear enough Best regaRDS aLBERTO ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: robin@no1bird.com To: ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Subject: Re: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:04:43 -0500 well yes, but the fertilizer we put on them isn't natural, the insecticide isn't either. what actually happens? ----- Original Message ----- From: Alberto Castillo To: robin@no1bird.com Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 6:41 PM Subject: RE: it is wrong to turn plants around You put them under never ending stress. Who turns them around in nature? From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:19 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB9910B43440A-E14-1D367@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Emails Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:36:51 -0500 (EST) I'm writing this only because I've been "warned" not to include previous emails, in my emails or responses, by the "powers that be." I think it's only fair to ask why it is continuing. Is each and every one getting such warnings? From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:40:53 -0800 How Interesting, Is it possible that other factors like gravity play any part... I ask because i have a number of worsleya seedlings in my shower recess, " Yes it is a pain to move them every time i have a shower " They are in the south - west corner of the bathroom.. Its the only place i have been able to keep them safe & after loosing the first batch to drowning while floating, from floor movement breaking the surface tension of the water & the second to rot from contaminated sand, now its perlite only, & 100% success rate.. What i find very interesting is, there is a wall to the east & to the south, with no windows, only a small window to the north covered by a thick bush so almost no light gets in at all & the only sunlight they can get is from the west. But in the mornings, especially on very hot days when the house has been locked up & reaches well over 45* celsius during the day, they have a tendency to be facing east in by morning, but it is always dark in that corner.. Steven Esk Queensland Australia On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 3:58 PM, Hannon wrote: Agreed with Alberto on this. It may do little or no harm to induce symmetry in, say, an African Violet for aesthetic reasons, but in general it is best to allow plants to grow to face the light as they please. This maximizes their ability to photosynthesize. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 00:49:25 +0000 " Turning pots is done by plant show people to get symmetrical plants." Yes, this is what is being discussed. "Just today at a friends she told me her Hippeastrum had fallen over and snapped off because she had forgotten to turn it." This is another topic and to my mind a very interesting one: many bulbs need depth in order to keep the scapes/stems rigiesd enough to support teh weight of flowers and capsules. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Chacun a son gout Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 00:54:10 +0000 Its oxalic acid contents. From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 17:52:47 -0800 Greetings, I think a few different things are at issue when it comes to moving plants and maintaining allignment to the sun (cardinal directions aren't really relevant except to the extent that they correlate to exposure). Other have mentioned chloroplast alignment & migration in plant tissue (google "Halimeda chloroplast migration" for a really neat example). Were this the only issue, the worst we would expect for improperly moved plants would be a temporary setback. A much worse problem is sunburn. Many plants - both herbs and woody plants - have photosynthetic tissue in the surface layers of their branches/twigs/trunk. In woody species without thick bark (like Manzanita) the conductive tissue that carries food and water is also very near the surface. When a plant is re-oriented toward the sun, surfaces that previously did not receive direct sunlight are suddenly exposed. Just like a pale sunbather in spring, the newly exposed tissue can get sunburned. The structure of plant tissue makes sunburn much more damaging to plants than to animals. Plant cells are surrounded by a cell wall and this constrains the way they can recover from sun damage. Even if a plant cell dies, the rigid cell wall still occupies the same space in the tissue where it resided (more or less - the empty cell can get squeezed by it's still-living neighbors). In animals, a cell killed by sun exposure is wholly re-absorbed and neighboring cells can grow/move into the gap. The photosynthetic and conductive tissue in a plant damaged by sunburn cannot "make way" for fresh cells. Thus, if you burn (kill) the conductive or photosynthetic tissue on a given section of trunk or branch, the damage is permanent. Additionally, sunburn can kill meristematic cells (the tissue that gives rise to buds & new branches) and thus prevent a plant from growing new branches or leaves from sun-damaged tissue. After a sunburn, annuals and/or deciduous plants can always try with new branches or leaves. For non-deciduous plants like cacti or bromeliads, however, sunburn can be permanently disfiguring and/or lethal. -| From: Alberto Castillo Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 01:56:24 +0000 Kipp, your explanation is worth printing. So very clear. From randysgarden@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Chacun a son gout Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 18:01:13 -0800 On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 4:02 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Oxalis pes-caprae isn't invasive here in Phoenix...Now O. corniculata is > another story. Both are a pain in my garden in the central Monterey Bay area of California. I covered a few beds which were infested last year with a heavy mulch and the number of plants of both types that came up this year were minimal. I am still pulling them up as they appear and I see them. The O. pest-crapae is now just developing new bulbs, so I am making extra effort to weed it out over the next few weeks. It appears that if you can remove them between the time they exhaust their original bulb and before they can make new ones you have a good chance of controlling it. Randy From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3B1BEE.60803@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: was Chacun a son gout now re oxalis Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:43:58 +1300 I don't know which one is the yellow flowered oxalis weed we have here in NZ, but I had a real infestation when I got back from overseas at one stage. I removed what I could and painted each leaf that came up with a strong solution of glyphosate with an applicator. Only the very occasional one now comes up and gets dealt with. As it was in the garden, covering it was not an option. Ina On 15/02/2012 3:01 p.m., Randall P. Linke wrote: > It appears that if you can > remove them between the time they exhaust their original bulb and before > they can make new ones you have a good chance of controlling it. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 19:22:30 -0800 May I just add, Years ago, in my travels in England and Ireland, I came across an older, experienced Head Gardener at a famous garden (Powis Castle) who explained that, upon moving some larger Taxus baccata stricta, they always marked the north side of the plant with a ribbon, so that, when moving the plant, they could situate the plant in the same direction. Years later, I transplanted some 9' Taxus baccata stricta from a nursery to a new garden. I had forgotten this phenomenon, , and planted the Taxus in their new garden, and position. Almost immediately, the Taxus began to shed needles in epidemic proportions. It then eclipsed my memory about that famous English gardener's remarks about how sensitive, and important it is to replant these species in the same direction they grew initially It was too late to determine what direction each plant was grown, but I did apply a product called Wilt_Pruf , which acted, in all intents and purposes like a sunscreen, anti-transpirant, and the Taxus recovered and adjusted to their new position, and survived and thrived. I would never move another larger plant without seriously addressing this issue. For what it's worth to other gardeners, the older gardeners and their experience is worth theirs and our 2 cents. Clayton On 2/14/12, Alberto Castillo wrote: > > Kipp, your explanation is worth printing. So very clear. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB9A9ABDBB80E-E14-1E181@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2012 22:33:08 -0500 (EST) I'm curious how you came to the conclusion that the massive leaf drop was due to its orientation being changed, as opposed to simply shock from being moved? From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: It is wrong to turn plants around Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 05:22:44 +0000 That about sums it up Robin :) On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 12:12 AM, Robin Carrier wrote: > ah ha - i think i've got it! the sun moves around them if they stay in > one place. > From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1595211220.58857.1329294414379.JavaMail.www@wwinf2221> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 09:26:54 +0100 (CET) The short answer is yes is one is an offender as I tended to be. Mark " Message du 15/02/12 01:37 > De : "The Silent Seed" > A : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Emails > > I'm writing this only because I've been "warned" not to include previous emails, in my emails or responses, by the "powers that be." Is each and every one getting such warnings? " _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 12:34:25 +0000 Hi, In message <8CEB9910B43440A-E14-1D367@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>, The Silent Seed writes >I'm writing this only because I've been "warned" not to include >previous emails, in my emails or responses When you subscribe to this list, you see the guidelines repeated below. They come down to write the sort of posting you would like to read. If you write hard to read emails, then few will read them. Eventually people will skip your postings when they see your name. If enough people write poor messages the whole list will suffer. ---------- 8< ---------- Guidelines for posting: Please sign your posts and include your location and climate information to help the rest of the group understand your information. Attachments are not allowed and including them will cause messages to be held for approval. Images can be shared by using the PBS wiki. See below. Please use a subject heading that describes your post and when responding to that post please use the same subject heading so people who search the archives can find all the information on one subject easily. If you change the subject, please change the subject heading as well. Include only enough information from the post you are replying to identify it. DO NOT INCLUDE THE ENTIRE MESSAGE. This is to keep our archives uncluttered and is also a courtesy to the members of the list, especially the digest subscribers. Post answers to questions raised to our list members to everyone as there will be many interested in your reply. Post messages that are of a private nature (such as thanks or information about swapping seed or bulbs) privately. Please refrain from posting your commercial offerings on our list. Remember whatever you post will be archived and available for others to read. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <6A1A9BE95A9F4EEC868F698923A79875@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:37:47 -0500 it's getting too complicated. why don't you who wnat to reorganize this group just start your own. this one has been working fine. robin carrier ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Pilling" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 7:34 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > Hi, > > In message <8CEB9910B43440A-E14-1D367@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>, The > Silent Seed writes >>I'm writing this only because I've been "warned" not to include >>previous emails, in my emails or responses > > When you subscribe to this list, you see the guidelines repeated below. > > They come down to write the sort of posting you would like to read. > > If you write hard to read emails, then few will read them. Eventually > people will skip your postings when they see your name. If enough people > write poor messages the whole list will suffer. > > > ---------- 8< ---------- > > Guidelines for posting: > Please sign your posts and include your location and climate information > to help the rest of the group understand your information. > > Attachments are not allowed and including them will cause messages to be > held for approval. Images can be shared by using the PBS wiki. See > below. > > Please use a subject heading that describes your post and when > responding to that post please use the same subject heading so people > who search the archives can find all the information on one subject > easily. > > If you change the subject, please change the subject heading as well. > > Include only enough information from the post you are replying to > identify it. DO NOT INCLUDE THE ENTIRE MESSAGE. This is to keep our > archives uncluttered and is also a courtesy to the members of the list, > especially the digest subscribers. > > Post answers to questions raised to our list members to everyone as > there will be many interested in your reply. > > Post messages that are of a private nature (such as thanks or > information about swapping seed or bulbs) privately. > > Please refrain from posting your commercial offerings on our list. > Remember whatever you post will be archived and available for others to > read. > > > > -- > David Pilling > email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk > web: http://www.davidpilling.net > post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. > UK > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEB9FF7A6DB2C2-8B0-1F254@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:47:22 -0500 (EST) Just wondering if there are others on here who grow / enjoy the various species and types of Asparagus ? It's a new addiction for me, and am thoroughly enjoying them. Is it possible to grow the Asparagus of commerce year-round, as with the others? I see that Asparagaceae is listed in the PBS website, but not Asparagus - am I missing a link or something? Jude From plantnut@cox.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 07:27:56 -0800 You can't find a list of all the genera that belong to the Asparagaceae at this site. Many bulbs belong to this group. Joe, Oceanside, CA http://www.theplantlist.org/browse/A/Asparagaceae/ From plantnut@cox.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <3B245D67-6CBC-4031-B706-144166EA73BB@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 07:36:32 -0800 In my previous post I meant to say you can find a list of all the genera in the family Asparagaceae. Including many bulbs. Joe, Oceanside, CA http://www.theplantlist.org/browse/A/Asparagaceae/ From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Chad Schroter Subject: oxalis pes caprae control Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 08:50:38 -0800 Randy, That's pretty much the conclusion I have come too. I thought I had eliminated them from a bed where I layered newspaper and mulch, but they 'returned' after a couple of years. I must have missed seeing them when they were very small. In another area I have had excellent results by weeding every scrap I can find once each month during a single season. I believe the first weeding takes care of most of the original bulbs strength, the second takes care of the rest, and by the third/fourth weeding there is nothing left to generate bulbs for the next season. This is only really practical where the ground is mostly clear of plants unfortunately... Chad Los Gatos, California -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Randall P. Linke Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2012 6:01 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Chacun a son gout On Tue, Feb 14, 2012 at 4:02 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Oxalis pes-caprae isn't invasive here in Phoenix...Now O. corniculata is > another story. Both are a pain in my garden in the central Monterey Bay area of California. I covered a few beds which were infested last year with a heavy mulch and the number of plants of both types that came up this year were minimal. I am still pulling them up as they appear and I see them. The O. pest-crapae is now just developing new bulbs, so I am making extra effort to weed it out over the next few weeks. It appears that if you can remove them between the time they exhaust their original bulb and before they can make new ones you have a good chance of controlling it. Randy PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <11802691-3859-4834-A1DF-F81F83BAA707@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 11:19:10 -0600 Robin, No one is trying to reorganize the PBS. Perhaps if you paid attention you'd realize the only difference is a more directed effort to curtail replying with the entire thread. I have been guilty of this as have many other people. The request is simple, easy to do, and is warranted. The reasons for this have been explained several times. To suggest that the people who were here long before you and have spent countless volunteer hours making the organization and especially the wiki such a huge asset for bulb growers around the world to leave is arrogant and insulting at best. Perhaps a better suggestion would be for you to start your own group and see how that works. I was asked to delete previous messages too, by a person who's wiki additions alone have provided me with tons of information I couldn't find anywhere else. I understand she is trying to balance the needs and preferences of an ever growing membership and database. Were she to leave to make your posting less complicated, Id gladly follow. I'm pretty sure Im not tge only one, and you would be left alone in this case. Tim Chapman On Feb 15, 2012, at 7:37 AM, "Robin Carrier" wrote: > it's getting too complicated. why don't you who wnat to reorganize this > group just start your own. this one has been working fine. > > robin carrier > From fatsia1234-pbs@yahoo.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1329327645.6521.YahooMailNeo@web120104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jonathan Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 09:40:45 -0800 (PST) " Were she to leave to make your posting less complicated, Id gladly follow." Tim, All well said and ditto. Jonathan Lubar Alachua FL zone 8b/9a From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:50:53 +0100 I have Asparagus verticillatus, hardy. Janos Z5a, Hungary From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:15:06 -0800 This thread reminds me that last weekend the "home and garden" supplement of the Portland newspaper had an article on shade plants, and the section "Ferns" featured a stock photo of ... Asparagus -- the sort grown as a house plant and called "asparagus fern." I didn't send a twitting e-mail but I'll bet some others did. The only asparagus I grow here is the kind we eat, and being American, I don't have to blanch it. Jane McGary At 09:50 AM 2/15/2012, you wrote: >I have Asparagus verticillatus, hardy. > >Janos >Z5a, Hungary From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1979967698.95336.1329330670233.JavaMail.www@wwinf2220> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 19:31:10 +0100 (CET) I grow as many as I can. I did collect some wild asparagus in Greece last year.I forget the species right now. I have been given some plants from the south here too. They look to be the same species. Mark. 1924 route de la mer, 76119 Sainte Marguerite-sur-mer, France > Message du 15/02/12 14:47 > De : "The Silent Seed" > A : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Asparagus > > Just wondering if there are others on here who grow / enjoy the various species and types of Asparagus ? It's a new addiction for me, and am thoroughly enjoying them. Is it possible to grow the Asparagus of commerce year-round, as with the others? > I see that Asparagaceae is listed in the PBS website, but not Asparagus - am I missing a link or something? > > Jude > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1329331007.95627.YahooMailNeo@web86304.mail.ird.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:36:47 +0000 (GMT) I currently have a book from our local library called "Creating a Forest Garden" by Martin Crawford. It is about food plants and sustainable gardening in general; e.g. growing nitrogen fixing plants etc. It mentions Polygonatum species are all edible, but recommends the larger, for practical purposes. Cut when 8-12 inches tall, disgard the leaf section as it can be bitter, cook like asparagas:- "wonderful sweet flavour". Also a good bee plant. I assume it will throw secondary shoots if you cut the primary but have not tried it.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 ish Snow all gone, stored rainwater all gone as pipe disconnnected under snow, :-( From plantnut@cox.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:39:54 -0800 Here in Oceanside, CA. I grow the following asparagus: aethiopicus, africanus, asparagoides, densiflorus, denudatus, falcatus, minutiflorus, plumosus, racemosus, retrofractus, setaceous, suaveolens, and virgatus. Joe From xerics@cox.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <005001ccec12$30ddcaf0$929960d0$@net> From: "Richard" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 10:46:55 -0800 In Vista, CA I have serious problems with Asparagus asparagoides. It shows up everywhere, can cover a small citrus tree in no time and the tuberous roots are difficult to remove. Richard Wagner Here in Oceanside, CA. I grow the following asparagus: aethiopicus, africanus, asparagoides, densiflorus, denudatus, falcatus, minutiflorus, plumosus, racemosus, retrofractus, setaceous, suaveolens, and virgatus. Joe From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:53:53 -0500 Richard: Asparagus asparagoides is fabulous for us here in NC, where the weather obviously keeps it in check. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Richard Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 1:47 PM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] Asparagus In Vista, CA I have serious problems with Asparagus asparagoides. It shows up everywhere, can cover a small citrus tree in no time and the tuberous roots are difficult to remove. Richard Wagner Here in Oceanside, CA. I grow the following asparagus: aethiopicus, africanus, asparagoides, densiflorus, denudatus, falcatus, minutiflorus, plumosus, racemosus, retrofractus, setaceous, suaveolens, and virgatus. Joe From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 14:11:27 -0500 All: Although we have long collected asparagus, we fell in love with the genus during our 2005 trip to South Africa. You can see many of the species that we saw in the wild in our trip diary at http://www.plantdelights.com/South-Africa/departments/579/ If you like the genus asparagus, then a trip to South Africa is a must. Silverhill Nursery offers a very good selection of Asparagus seed. We are currently growing these in our garden. Latin Name Asparagus aff. crassicladus suaveolens Asparagus africanus Asparagus africanus x officinalis hybrid PDN #01 Asparagus asparagoides Asparagus cochinchinensis A1K-125 Asparagus densiflorus 'Mazeppa' Asparagus denudatus Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri Graham's Dwarf' Asparagus falcatus var. tenuifolius Asparagus microrhaphis Asparagus officinalis var. pseudoscaber Asparagus officinalis var. pseudoscaber dwarf Asparagus officinalis var. pseudoscaber 'Spitzenschleier' Asparagus plumosus Asparagus racemosus Asparagus retrofactus Glen Avon form Asparagus setaceus A1SA-182 Asparagus sp. A1C-148 Asparagus sp. Cathcart Asparagus sp. Chollipo Asparagus sp. Ellington Asparagus sp. Rhodes Asparagus sp. T-059 Asparagus striatus Asparagus suaveolens Penrock form Asparagus subulatus Asparagus verticillatus Asparagus virgatus Asparagus volubilis Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent From randysgarden@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 12:12:05 -0800 Well great, this got me curious and I started looking up more information, so now I have another list of plants to add to me habit, . Randy From joshuakyleyoung@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:20:16 -0500 Robin, These are the rules that were posted when you joined PBS. Joshua Young Indiana On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 8:37 AM, Robin Carrier wrote: > it's getting too complicated. why don't you who wnat to reorganize this > group just start your own. this one has been working fine. > > From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA36BD193510-8B0-227B1@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:22:58 -0500 (EST) Are they easy from seed, Tony ? Jude From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:24:44 -0500 Jude: Very easy from fresh seed, but you generally need 2 clones to get seed. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of The Silent Seed Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 3:23 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Asparagus Are they easy from seed, Tony ? Jude From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA37E182A80C-8B0-228D6@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:31:07 -0500 (EST) Thanks Tony! I was wondering about the ones on Ebay and figured I'd ask before I tried a few. But of course I'll have to add some of YOURS to my current order! Best, Jude From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C18BB.3040306@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: off topic Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 09:42:35 +1300 I am looking for the coin size paper envelopes for seed. I cannot find any in NZ. eBay has some but I really don't want to buy 1000 at a time. Does anyone have any suggestions as so far I have cut up envelopes and sellotaped to size, but it is too time consuming. - Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C1968.1060704@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Off topic Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 09:45:28 +1300 I am looking for the small coin sized paper envelopes to send seed of bulbs. I cannot find any in NZ. So far I have been cutting up envelopes to size and sellotaping them. But that is too time consuming. eBay sells some but I am not wanting to buy 1000 at a time. Any suggestions? -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <3A020EBAE9C544CF97B2016F66ABF51D@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:45:37 -0500 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Chapman" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 12:19 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > Robin, > > No one is trying to reorganize the PBS. Perhaps if you paid attention > you'd realize the only difference is a more directed effort to curtail > replying with the entire thread. I have been guilty of this as have many > other people. The request is simple, easy to do, and is warranted. The > reasons for this have been explained several times. > > To suggest that the people who were here long before you and have spent > countless volunteer hours making the organization and especially the wiki > such a huge asset for bulb growers around the world to leave is arrogant > and insulting at best. Perhaps a better suggestion would be for you to > start your own group and see how that works. > > I was asked to delete previous messages too, by a person who's wiki > additions alone have provided me with tons of information I couldn't find > anywhere else. I understand she is trying to balance the needs and > preferences of an ever growing membership and database. Were she to leave > to make your posting less complicated, Id gladly follow. I'm pretty sure > Im not tge only one, and you would be left alone in this case. > > Tim Chapman > > On Feb 15, 2012, at 7:37 AM, "Robin Carrier" wrote: > >> it's getting too complicated. why don't you who wnat to reorganize this >> group just start your own. this one has been working fine. >> >> robin carrier >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <0LZG00HO8CDBDEE0@vms173013.mailsrvcs.net> From: "arnold140@verizon.net" Subject: off topic Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 14:46:18 -0600 Ina: Try uline. Arnold ------------------------------ Sent using Verizon.net Mobile ----- Original Message ---- From: Ina Crossley To: Pacific Bulb Society CC: Sent: Wednesday, 15 February, 2012 02:42:35 PM Subject: [pbs] off topic I am looking for the coin size paper envelopes for seed. I cannot find any in NZ. eBay has some but I really don't want to buy 1000 at a time. Does anyone have any suggestions as so far I have cut up envelopes and sellotaped to size, but it is too time consuming. - Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <11206907.62570.1329338792950.JavaMail.www@wwinf1h10> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:46:32 +0100 (CET) Tony, how do I differentiate Asparagus officinalis var. pseudoscaber 'Spitzenschleier' which I have been growing for years from plain Asparagus officinalis that I grow as vegetable in the kitchen garden? I can't see a huge amount of difference... Mark From santoury@aol.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA3B70F6FE80-8B0-22C28@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: off topic Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:56:36 -0500 (EST) I have an Uline account, and they are always fantastic to me. From robin@no1bird.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <9C25219F19DE4C3C9BF1CCCD297FF764@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:56:42 -0500 i didn't get any rules when i joiined. i have several emails from those who agree with me. i have put you in junk mail robin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joshua Young" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 3:20 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > Robin, > > These are the rules that were posted when you joined PBS. > > Joshua Young > Indiana > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 8:37 AM, Robin Carrier wrote: > >> it's getting too complicated. why don't you who wnat to reorganize this >> group just start your own. this one has been working fine. >> >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <0C4D5B3D-D92D-4F08-92C8-206AB1E36AF7@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Did Europe steal North America's winter cold? Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:02:45 -0800 Just saw this photo essay about the really cold weather Europe has had over the past two weeks: . While we've been complaining about everything leafing out and blooming way too early over here, it appears a number of places in Europe have had some really cold weather recently. Snow in Rome and Istanbul, 14°F temperatures in Zone 8 France and Netherlands. I hope no one has lost any of their plants. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:04:13 -0500 Mark: From what I can tell 'Spitzenschleier' doesn't produce large edible shoots, otherwise they look similar to me also. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mark BROWN Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 3:47 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Asparagus Tony, how do I differentiate Asparagus officinalis var. pseudoscaber 'Spitzenschleier' which I have been growing for years from plain Asparagus officinalis that I grow as vegetable in the kitchen garden? I can't see a huge amount of difference... Mark From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <9BECC68F57FC4A40B8DC7DAC09A8EF5C@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:11:02 -0000 I've always thought that ordinary Asparagus officinalis is an excellent ornamental, well worth including in the border with other herbaceous plants or shrubs. Its soft yellow autumn colouring is particularly pleasant - not to mention the harvest of a few spears in spring. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 Snowdrops at Colesbourne Park 2012 Every Saturday and Sunday in February and 3-4 March from 1pm Guided group tours on weekdays by appointment. From pcamusa@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:12:10 -0500 I am definitely one of the occasional sinners in this regard but I still seem to be trainable at my advanced age. I don't mind a reminder once in a while in the interest of making it easier for all members to easily access the messages. It also conserves electrons, I'm sure. Its just that including the original email in a response is a habit carried over from work and I sometimes forget. I appreciate your patience. Regards, Phil Michigan where I'm glad I put another layer of mulch on all the bulbs that were showing their heads in midJanuary. From ceridwen@internode.on.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: Off topic Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 07:43:13 +1030 I have some Ina - happy to post you some - how many? Also, yellow paper or glassine? Cheers Ceridwen Sent from my iPhone On 16/02/2012, at 7:15 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am looking for the small coin sized paper envelopes to send seed of > bulbs. I cannot find any in NZ. So far I have been cutting up > envelopes to size and sellotaping them. But that is too time > consuming. eBay sells some but I am not wanting to buy 1000 at a time. > Any suggestions? > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1899418579.6566.1329341055752.JavaMail.www@wwinf1d28> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Did Europe steal North America's winter cold? Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 22:24:15 +0100 (CET) Dear Lee, I have been reading the accounts of flowering on this forum with some slightly peeved feeelings. It has frozen here right on the Normandy coast at exceptional temperatures of at least -11°C for the last two weeks. The yellow hellebores look like boiled cabbage and galanthus are blasted for this season except the later ones. It was in 1987 I believe the last time we had any such cold.It did not last so long this time or has not done so yet. Arisarum was up and in full leaf when the deep freeze set in. So much was in flower and leafing up more than a month ahead of time. Then pow! -11°C. I may have lost a few plants.But it was cold last year too. Cycas revoluta came through last year ok under thick snow bit it looks terrible right now. All arums (other than maculatum but even that is very burnt!) and Zantedeschia look terrible.Biarum tenuifolium looks just about OK. Crocus were all blasted too. I had a beautiful flowering Mandragora autumnalis this is very unhappy right now. It was the unseasonal warmth all winter then the terrible cold from the 1st of Feb that has done all the damage. Time will tell what is really dead. Mark, 1924 route de la mer, 76119 Sainte Marguerite-sur-mer, France "Message du 15/02/12 22:03 > De : "Lee Poulsen" > A : "PBS Society" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Did Europe steal North America's winter cold? > > Just saw this photo essay about the really cold weather Europe has had over the past two weeks: . While we've been complaining about everything leafing out and blooming way too early over here, it appears a number of places in Europe have had some really cold weather recently. Snow in Rome and Istanbul, 14°F temperatures in Zone 8 France and Netherlands. I hope no one has lost any of their plants. > > --Lee Poulsen" _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From joshuakyleyoung@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Joshua Young Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:28:28 -0500 I think we've all made a mistake here and there but to insist the list would be better off without the people who have spent years running and donating their time and energy is outrageous. Josh Y. Indiana On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 4:12 PM, P. C. Andrews wrote: > > I am definitely one of the occasional sinners in this regard but I still > seem to be trainable at my advanced age. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1329341489.28384.YahooMailNeo@web84505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Did Europe steal North America's winter cold? Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:31:29 -0800 (PST) I've been reading Mort Rosenblum's 1996 book "Olives The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit" lately. According to him, the winter of 1956 resulted in the death of about a million olive trees in France, and an additional six million in some way suffered from the cold. Among olive growers it was said at the time to be the worst calamity to befall the trees since 1739, when they began keeping records. When this author says "trees" he evidently means the above ground, productive part of the plants - he later goes on to mention that after the old trunks were cut to the ground,  most of the trees sprouted from the roots.  He gives the date February 1, 1956 and mentions that the trees were showing bud growth at that time and overnight the temperature suddenly dropped to -7 degrees C. That's about 19 degrees F.  If you really like French olive oil, it might be a good idea to get up to your supplier and grab some before the price jumps!  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org   From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:31:58 -0600 >Here in Oceanside, CA. I grow the following asparagus: >aethiopicus, africanus, asparagoides, densiflorus, denudatus, >falcatus, minutiflorus, plumosus, racemosus, retrofractus, >setaceous, suaveolens, and virgatus. Joe Dear Joseph, Wow. I am impressed. I think Asparagus is certainly 'meat' for this group since it has enlarged storage roots and in a definite target family. I don't even know half of these, but I'll be warming up Google soon. I'd love to get A. asparagoides and hope Richard can share some seeds with the Seed Ex. when they over run his garden. One of my plant hunting regrets was that I failed to get seed of Asparagus gobicus a miniature semi shrubby Asparagus I found growing on the edge of the Gobi Desert in Gansu Province China over 15 years ago. I am sure I could find it again if anyone wants to fund a trip there. I hope you'll share pix of these interesting species. Thanks. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4FFA78AA-588B-4A2C-AFB7-B121C8FE393B@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Off topic Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:32:08 -0600 Uline is good, but don't know if they sell small quantities. If you could use plastic they have the small seed sizes ones with ziplocks at most craft stores. Sometimes they have paper ones as well. Hard to find in the stores but sometimes they are in the aisles with beads and such. .. But they never seem to be in the same place twice. Tim Chapman > I am looking for the small coin sized paper envelopes to send seed of > bulbs. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: off topic -Glassine envelopes Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:37:28 -0600 >I am looking for the coin size paper envelopes for seed. I cannot find >any in NZ. eBay has some but I really don't want to buy 1000 at a >time. Does anyone have any suggestions as so far I have cut up >envelopes and sellotaped to size, but it is too time consuming. Dear Ina and others, I am one of the SIGNA Seed Ex cochairs. we sell glassine envelopes by the 100 as cheap as anywhere and in small quantity. You can see these at http://www.signa.org/index.pl?Seed2011 and scroll to the bottom. Send me an email and I'll give you details. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 15 Feb 2012 13:56:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C2851.3050606@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: off topic -Glassine envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:49:05 +1300 Wow! Thank you Jim. On 16/02/2012 10:37 a.m., James Waddick wrote: > we sell glassine > envelopes by the 100 as cheap as anywhere and in small quantity. You > can see these athttp://www.signa.org/index.pl?Seed2011 and scroll > to the bottom. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From pcamusa@hotmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:59:22 -0500 I think we all appreciate this little community that has grown up over the past few years due to the efforts of a few hard working individuals and the generosity of all those who contribute their knowledge, seeds, bulbs, and experiences. There are few organizations I've found online that are so consistently helpful, even tempered, and entertaining. I still think every Spring of the anthropological observation made on this list about the use of Bounce as a scent marker in suburbia . -P > > I think we've all made a mistake here and there but to insist the list > would be better off without the people who have spent years running and > donating their time and energy is outrageous. > i From randysgarden@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:13:26 -0800 Unfortunately it is dormant so I can't get a picture, but I have an asparagus that I acquired from a nursery I used to sell for labeled as 'dwarf Meyer'. It is a lighter green and looser in habit, seems to never exceed 8-9" (20-22.5 cm) in height. Does anyone have any thoughts on what this might be? Randy From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <1329348099.37920.YahooMailNeo@web84509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:21:39 -0800 (PST) Sounds like the dwarf fox-tail asparagus to me.  Jim McKenney From kjblack@pacbell.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <1329349336.12780.YahooMailRC@web181007.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: weedy succulent-leafed oxalis ID request Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:42:16 -0800 (PST) I have this succulent-leafed oxalis popping up in several pots.  I recall one plant last year, with yellow flowers similar to O.pes-caprae.  Hopefully, it will not be quite that weedy!  Any guess on the species? http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6883352475/in/photostream Ken Blackford San Diego, CA  USDA zone 10 ... where it is currently raining and 55F (we need it) From CGeat25049@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: CGeat25049@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 28 Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:59:22 -0500 (EST) RE is it wrong to turn plants around. I think there are two sides to the story. If you have a plant indoors and consistently turn it so it doesn't start leaning toward the light, this is a good thing. But if you have a plant outdoors and it stays oriented to the power of the sun on one side , and gets reduced light on the other side, a sudden change can cause severe damage. It's as though you had a plant in the shade and then decided to put it in full sun. Well you know what happens. You might lose the plant! This has happened to me several times. I have hundreds of plants and my hubby decides to pull things out for grooming and cleaning up the area. and I have no idea how they were sitting. One example is the four foot tall euphorbia that was in full sun. It was taken off a stand for a day and reset. Now I see terrible scarring on the sunny side because obviously it was oriented the other way. Cherry G. From xerantheum@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: weedy succulent-leafed oxalis ID request Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:13:37 -0800 Hi Ken, Looks like you've got more than 1 weedy Oxalis in that pot! :) The purplish one is the evil O. corniculata group that's weedy basically everywhere. The succulent is O. megalorrhiza which has a thickened tap-root. Make sure you pull the whole tap-root out if you want to get rid of it. I feel torn about this species because I'm fond of it but it can be weedy, especially in succulent collections. Here's a photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/xerantheum/6243086032 Nhu On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 3:42 PM, Ken wrote: > I have this succulent-leafed oxalis popping up in several pots. I recall > one > plant last year, with yellow flowers similar to O.pes-caprae. Hopefully, > it will not be quite that weedy! > Any guess on the species? > http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6883352475/in/photostream > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 28 Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:20:52 +0000 If it is leaning toward thelight it can' be a good thing..... for the plant. From leo@possi.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <59714f67e58e02ad8b07722f7ef4933b.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Asparagus Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:49:48 -0800 (PST) At the northern tip of Madagascar, Montagne d'Ambre, I saw a beautiful yellow-flowered Asparagus species. Anybody have any idea what it might be and whether it might be in cultivation? Didn't take any photos. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Coin envelopes Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:57:58 -0800 (PST) Ina wrote > I am looking for the coin size paper envelopes for seed. > I cannot find any in NZ. Did you look in office supply stores? That's where I get mine in the USA, generally in packs of 500. You will be very surprised to discover how fast 500 disappear. Leo Martin From leo@possi.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <48a9bb0a5728da613f20ee65de050097.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: weedy succulent-leafed oxalis ID request Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:06:10 -0800 (PST) Ken wrote > I have this succulent-leafed oxalis.... I recall > one plant last year, with yellow flowers similar > to O.pes-caprae. There are two Oxalis in that pot. The reddish leaf in the lower left belongs to O. corniculata, which we have just discussed. The flowers are much smaller than those of the one in the upper right. It is wildly invasive but not difficult to eradicate from pots if you keep pulling. The problem is it is in so many pots by the time you notice it. It has explosive fruits that scatter seeds widely. I've seen the other but can't recall the name right now. I have no doubt somebody can provide the name. It's not nearly as weedy as O. corniculata. (In other words, I killed the one just like it that I was trying to grow.) Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C5703.9010806@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Coin envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:08:19 +1300 Thanks Leo, I realise now that really I want the size 1 glassine envelopes for stamps. Well, it has been a learning curve. Which may help others too perhaps. On 16/02/2012 1:57 p.m., Leo A. Martin wrote: > Did you look in office supply stores? -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:10:20 -0800 Hi Robin, & others, who might not understand. Don't be upset at everyone for trying to support the system, I used to make the same mistake of including previous messages too & was asked personally to remove most of the previous message, it took me a while to understand, but eventually i got it.. It is only to help support our "donated" system. It was always in the rules just near where we pay our membership fees, i missed it when i joined because i was so short on time i just didn't read it, or realise there might be any rules at all... We have had several exasperated requests from the administrators asking us to comply to this rule, but perhaps some have missed these messages & never read the rules ether.... So it is up to all of us to help pass on the message, to help each other to keep the system running smoothly & i admire those who have the courage to mention it & take the chance to be shot down in flames, Ive been there too, but its well worth trying to help for the good of everyone... : ) Its really easy to do, just left click & roll your mouse over the message & highlight the section to be deleted & hit delete or back space over what you need to remove... I hope this makes it easier & less complicated for you, and those who find it harder to understand what to do.. ;) Steven Australia On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 12:56 PM, Robin Carrier wrote: i didn't get any rules when i joined. i have several emails from those who agree with me. Robin From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C591B.3040005@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Emails Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:17:15 +1300 Steve, it is actually much quicker and easier if you highlight what you want to -keep- in your reply, rather than what you want to get rid off. Ina On 16/02/2012 2:10 p.m., steven hart wrote: > just left click& roll your mouse over the message& > highlight the section to be deleted& hit delete or back space over what > you need to remove... -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:21:28 -0800 How do you get rid of the bit you want to get rid of ? i tried it & loose the highlighted part every time On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 5:17 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Steve, it is actually much quicker and easier if you highlight what you > want to -keep- in your reply, rather than what you want to get rid off. > > Ina > > On 16/02/2012 2:10 p.m., steven hart wrote: > > just left click& roll your mouse over the message& > > highlight the section to be deleted& hit delete or back space over what > > you need to remove... > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From Rheinlander95@broadstripe.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Reichjke de kuypeurs Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Gawd, I hope I'm responding correctly. I know the response police are out in full force. The 9' Taxus I purchased were pre-dug, balled and burlapped for almost 6 months. The balls were carefully moved without cracking or breaking. They were watered regularly, but not too, as Taxus baccata hate being overly wet. They were not freshly balled and burlaped, as that would've signaled the possibility of shock. Hope this helps. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: it is wrong to turn plants around Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 01:36:13 +0000 Well, this is the same as countless experiences with woody plants. Herbaceous plants are more resilient and can produce new reoriented tissue within the season. Or not, and linger on until they die. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: off topic Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:42:41 -0800 Ina wrote, >I am looking for the coin size paper envelopes for seed. I cannot find >any in NZ. eBay has some but I really don't want to buy 1000 at a >time. Does anyone have any suggestions as so far I have cut up >envelopes and sellotaped to size, but it is too time consuming. You can purchase glassine (waxed paper) seed envelopes from the North American Rock Garden Society at their website, www.nargs.org. I believe they will sell 100 at a time. Jane McGary From ixia@dcsi.net.au Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <35E6A673BD2541859AF518561555C91B@DAWN> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Emails and replying to emails Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:44:31 +1000 Hi Steven et al, there is an easy way to fix this, instead of all this unnecessary discussion here. You can set your email program to exclude the message. Here's how to do it: in outlook (and every email program will have a similar setup program): on your pulldown menu along the top, go to "tools" select "options" Select "send" then, untick "include messages in reply" Click "ok" Bingo!! no more extra rubbish in your own reply. this is vvery easy to do and doesn't require any input from PBS, it's all in your own computer program. regards, Bill Richardson Ixiaking West Gippsland Victoria, Australia Summer 16c to 36c at present www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia From robin@no1bird.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <96C84AEE3EF24FAC94F3B6C8C0106B5C@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:02:13 -0500 what don't i understand? what rule? i hope i haven't been shot down in flames. ----- Original Message ----- From: "steven hart" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 8:10 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > Hi Robin, & others, who might not understand. Don't be upset at everyone > for trying to support the system, I used to make the same mistake of > including previous messages too & was asked personally to remove most of > the previous message, it took me a while to understand, but eventually i > got it.. It is only to help support our "donated" system. It was always in > the rules just near where we pay our membership fees, i missed it when i > joined because i was so short on time i just didn't read it, or realise > there might be any rules at all... > > We have had several exasperated requests from the administrators asking us > to comply to this rule, but perhaps some have missed these messages & > never > read the rules ether.... So it is up to all of us to help pass on the > message, to help each other to keep the system running smoothly & i admire > those who have the courage to mention it & take the chance to be shot down > in flames, Ive been there too, but its well worth trying to help for the > good of everyone... : ) > > Its really easy to do, just left click & roll your mouse over the message > & > highlight the section to be deleted & hit delete or back space over what > you need to remove... I hope this makes it easier & less complicated for > you, and those who find it harder to understand what to do.. ;) > > Steven Australia > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 12:56 PM, Robin Carrier wrote: > i didn't get any rules when i joined. i have several emails from those > who agree with me. > Robin > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C6679.30406@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Emails Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:14:17 +1300 There, I just did it. You highlight what you want to respond to, then -right- click anywhere else on the email and click on reply. I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing to read. Ina On 16/02/2012 2:21 p.m., steven hart wrote: > if you highlight what you > > want to -keep- in your reply, -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From robin@no1bird.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:17:33 -0500 me too. i just don't think it's such a big deal. if others do, i''ll drop out. > > I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing > to read. > > Ina > From fsthorne@hawaii.rr.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <8FE1D44E445D4DA59896B3A218AF3B60@Annabelle> From: "Fred Thorne" Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:22:05 -1000 It is just a matter of using common sense and common courtesy. From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: off topic -Glassine envelopes Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:58:49 -0800 I've found glassine envelopes at coin dealers' stores. It's worth looking around your area for such stores before you import them. If you are ordering on line, both SIGNA and U-Line are good sources. You can also fold seed-tight envelopes out of plain pieces of office paper, and secure the edge folds with a bit of tape if needed. If you want instructions, contact me directly, away from this forum. I've found folded seed packets to work in a pinch many times. Cheers, Kathleen Kathleen Sayce PNW Coast, WHZ 8, dryish cool summers & mild wet winters From totototo@telus.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3C0213.1100.11A4@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: oxalis pes caprae control Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 19:05:55 -0800 On 15 Feb 2012, at 8:50, Chad Schroter wrote: > I thought I had eliminated [Oxlis pes-caprae] from a bed where I layered > newspaper and mulch, but they 'returned' after a couple of years... In > another area I have had excellent results by weeding every scrap I can find > once each month during a single season. I believe the first weeding takes > care of most of the original bulbs strength, the second takes care of the > rest, and by the third/fourth weeding there is nothing left to generate bulbs > for the next season. This is only really practical where the ground is mostly > clear of plants unfortunately... Pay close attention to Chad's last sentence, everyone. It's worth emphasizing that that is the only way to get rid of some weeds is to clear the ground of all else, then dig, dig, dig by hand. Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty - liberty from some weeds, at least. Nobody ever said that gardening is always easy. It's not always a matter of tiptoeing through the tulips! -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From randysgarden@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: oxalis pes caprae control Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:05:43 -0800 > > Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty - liberty from some weeds, at > least. > These species are why I have an aversion to all oxalis, even those that I know are not weedy. On the subject of weeds, I have discovered one previously unidentified weed I will avoid is Asparagus capensis. I had encountered it but did not recognize it as an asparagus until the topic came up today. I really value this group, I have learned quite a bit from all of you and I hope I can return the favor over time. Randy From garrapat@ix.netcom.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Richard Faulkner Subject: Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:10:16 -0800 On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:56:42 -0500, you wrote: >i didn't get any rules when i joiined. i have several emails from those >who agree with me. i have put you in junk mail This has been common netiquette for far longer than the twenty years that I have been using email. The best way to reply to an email is to highlight a snippet to establish context then hit whatever is the reply key in your email program. -- Monterey, California USA USDA Zone 9 Sunset Zone 17 From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Emails and replying to emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:14:50 -0800 Thanks Bill, I gave it a go but it doesn't seem to work with gmail, I don't have any trouble my self : ) & i like to leave the heading & few lines of the previous message so others can keep track of what its about, i was just trying to help Robin, because she sounded like she is really struggling with it, thats all... Thanks Steven On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 5:44 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > Hi Steven et al,there is an easy way to fix this, instead of all this > unnecessary discussion here. You can set your email program to exclude the > message.Here's how to do it: > in outlook (and every email program will have a similar setup program): > on your pull down menu along the top, go to "tools" > select "options"Select "send"then, untick "include messages in reply" > Click "ok" > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Emails ( REPLY TEST ONLY) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:22:01 -0800 I'll give it a test Ina, my own method works too, but i like the sound of yours : ) On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > There, I just did it. You highlight what you want to respond to, then > -right- click anywhere else on the email and click on reply. > > I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing > to read. > > Ina > > On 16/02/2012 2:21 p.m., steven hart wrote: > > if you highlight what you > > > want to -keep- in your reply, > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:26:56 -0800 This was an experiment i did in October last year, it is a Lilium regale that i grew from a 7cm stem cutting, it was not a baby plant like sometimes grow on lilies after flowering, rather a true stem cutting, that grew roots & shot from the node.. I never realised they could be grown from cutting & i wonder if others have ever tried this experiment ? http://www.flickr.com/photos/67167299@N04/6884719315/in/photostream In this photo there is a tiny Australian native stingless bee heavily laden with pollen & having trouble with lift off : ) http://www.flickr.com/photos/67167299@N04/6884719315/in/photostream Steven Esk Queensland Australia Zone 5 From santoury@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA837418477E-8B0-25B5F@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:32:05 -0500 (EST) When I dig up lilies, often if the bulb was originally planted rather deep, the stem from the bulb, up to the soil surface, will have roots and new babies developing the whole way up, so this doesn't surprise me. From santoury@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA8381CAA7E2-8B0-25B67@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:32:28 -0500 (EST) The second photo is the same as the first :) From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Max Withers Subject: Lachenalia blooming was Emails Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:38:44 -0800 For Gmail users: Click on the vaguely gear-like icon at the upper right --> Settings --> Labs --> Enable "Quote selected text" Of course, those of us who use many different email clients on many different platforms are still liable to make mistakes... As I did when I sent a message to the whole list a few weeks ago that I meant to send to Mary Sue. I'd like to apologize for that, and especially for the implication that members with less-than-perfect English are unwelcome, which was not at all what I intended. I think we all agree about that. I haven't responded both because I'm too busy, and because I did not want to make the situation worse by adding yet another email to everyone's inbox about something in no way related to geophytes (which was why I wanted to send the message to Mary Sue in the first place...) We are all here to learn about (or at least talk about) bulbs, not email clients or spelling or how to use the internet. I want to sincerely apologize for contributing to that problem. Thus, the interesting part of this email: Lachenalia orchioides var. orchioides is in full bloom, farther along than L. aloides var. quadricolor, which normally, for me, gets started in early December. L. orchioides, from seed, bloomed last year in late Feb. for the first time; it got a LOT of sun this winter. L. aloides got less sun but not I think less than usual; however, its pot is incredibly overcrowded (from I think 3 bulbs purchased from Odyssey Bulbs in 2007, I now have at least 14 scapes, and many more plants). In short, either crowding delays but does not reduce flowering in L. aloides, or extreme (winter) sun hastens flowering in L. orchiodes. (Or both). L. orchioides var. orchioides might be described as the kind of plant only a mother could love. It's all green with a yellowish tinge at the edge of the petaloid tepals. But the variation in leaf spotting is astonishing (I have 5 plants from a single packet of Silverhill seed) -- and even more variable are the tiny cyan (think Ixia viridiflora) speckles on the sepaloid tepals: http://www.flickr.com/photos/badthings/6850195117/in/photostream These small epiphanies are why I grow bulbs! (And enjoy reading emails about bulbs from others who grow them). Best, Max Withers Oakland CA From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Lilium cutting experiment ( other link) Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:45:40 -0800 Thanks Randy this should be the other photo http://www.flickr.com/photos/67167299@N04/6884719405/in/photostream/ From santoury@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBA859DC71C42-8B0-25BE4@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Lilium cutting experiment ( other link) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:47:34 -0500 (EST) That's too cute !! Thanks for sharing! Quite an amazing photo, too! From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3CA1AE.8050405@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: off topic -Glassine envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 19:26:54 +1300 Thank you one and all for the suggestions and help. I didn't even know there is such a thing as glassine envelopes. I have looked and looked here in NZ online and there is nothing like it. But it is getting all sorted now. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Off topic Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 08:17:16 +0000 The Alpine Garden Society in the UK sell glassine envelopes http://www.alpinegardensociety.net/information/contact-us/ Peter (UK) On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 9:32 PM, Tim Chapman wrote: > > > Uline is good, but don't know if they sell small quantities. If you could > use plastic they have the small seed sizes ones with ziplocks at most craft > stores. Sometimes they have paper ones as well. Hard to find in the > stores but sometimes they are in the aisles with beads and such. .. But > they never seem to be in the same place twice. > > Tim Chapman > > > I am looking for the small coin sized paper envelopes to send seed of > > bulbs. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From mirrog@yahoo.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Gene Mirro" Subject: Coin envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 07:57:10 -0800 Amazon.com has them. Just get on their website and search for coin envelopes. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2012 9:39 PM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 34 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Emails (Ina Crossley) > 2. Re: Emails (Robin Carrier) > 3. Re: Emails (Fred Thorne) > 4. Re: off topic -Glassine envelopes (Kathleen Sayce) > 5. Re: oxalis pes caprae control (Rodger Whitlock) > 6. Re: oxalis pes caprae control (Randall P. Linke) > 7. Re: Emails (Richard Faulkner) > 8. Re: Emails and replying to emails (steven hart) > 9. Re: Emails ( REPLY TEST ONLY) (steven hart) > 10. Lilium cutting experiment (steven hart) > 11. Re: Lilium cutting experiment (The Silent Seed) > 12. Re: Lilium cutting experiment (The Silent Seed) > 13. Lachenalia blooming was Emails (Max Withers) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:14:17 +1300 > From: Ina Crossley > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <4F3C6679.30406@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > There, I just did it. You highlight what you want to respond to, then > -right- click anywhere else on the email and click on reply. > > I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing > to read. > > Ina > > On 16/02/2012 2:21 p.m., steven hart wrote: >> if you highlight what you >> > want to -keep- in your reply, > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:17:33 -0500 > From: "Robin Carrier" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > me too. i just don't think it's such a big deal. if others do, i''ll > drop > out. >> >> I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing >> to read. >> >> Ina >> > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 16:22:05 -1000 > From: "Fred Thorne" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" > Message-ID: <8FE1D44E445D4DA59896B3A218AF3B60@Annabelle> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > It is just a matter of using common sense and common courtesy. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 18:58:49 -0800 > From: Kathleen Sayce > Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic -Glassine envelopes > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I've found glassine envelopes at coin dealers' stores. It's worth looking > around your area for such stores before you import them. > If you are ordering on line, both SIGNA and U-Line are good sources. > > You can also fold seed-tight envelopes out of plain pieces of office > paper, and secure the edge folds with a bit of tape if needed. If you want > instructions, contact me directly, away from this forum. I've found folded > seed packets to work in a pinch many times. > > Cheers, > > Kathleen > > Kathleen Sayce > PNW Coast, WHZ 8, dryish cool summers & mild wet winters > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 19:05:55 -0800 > From: "Rodger Whitlock" > Subject: Re: [pbs] oxalis pes caprae control > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <4F3C0213.1100.11A4@localhost> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > > On 15 Feb 2012, at 8:50, Chad Schroter wrote: > >> I thought I had eliminated [Oxlis pes-caprae] from a bed where I layered >> newspaper and mulch, but they 'returned' after a couple of years... In >> another area I have had excellent results by weeding every scrap I can >> find >> once each month during a single season. I believe the first weeding >> takes >> care of most of the original bulbs strength, the second takes care of the >> rest, and by the third/fourth weeding there is nothing left to generate >> bulbs >> for the next season. This is only really practical where the ground is >> mostly >> clear of plants unfortunately... > > Pay close attention to Chad's last sentence, everyone. It's worth > emphasizing > that that is the only way to get rid of some weeds is to clear the ground > of > all else, then dig, dig, dig by hand. > > Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty - liberty from some weeds, at > least. > > > Nobody ever said that gardening is always easy. It's not always a matter > of > tiptoeing through the tulips! > > > > > -- > Rodger Whitlock > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:05:43 -0800 > From: "Randall P. Linke" > Subject: Re: [pbs] oxalis pes caprae control > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > >> >> Eternal vigilance is the price of liberty - liberty from some weeds, at >> least. >> > > These species are why I have an aversion to all oxalis, even those that I > know are not weedy. > > On the subject of weeds, I have discovered one previously unidentified > weed > I will avoid is Asparagus capensis. I had encountered it but did not > recognize it as an asparagus until the topic came up today. > > I really value this group, I have learned quite a bit from all of you and > I > hope I can return the favor over time. > > Randy > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:10:16 -0800 > From: Richard Faulkner > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > On Wed, 15 Feb 2012 15:56:42 -0500, you wrote: > >>i didn't get any rules when i joiined. i have several emails from >>those >>who agree with me. i have put you in junk mail > > This has been common netiquette for far longer than the twenty years > that I have been using email. > > The best way to reply to an email is to highlight a snippet to establish > context then hit whatever is the reply key in your email program. > > -- > Monterey, California USA > USDA Zone 9 > Sunset Zone 17 > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:14:50 -0800 > From: steven hart > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails and replying to emails > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Thanks Bill, I gave it a go but it doesn't seem to work with gmail, I > don't have any trouble my self : ) & i like to leave the heading & few > lines of the previous message so others can keep track of what its about, > i > was just trying to help Robin, because she sounded like she is really > struggling with it, thats all... > Thanks Steven > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 5:44 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > >> Hi Steven et al,there is an easy way to fix this, instead of all this >> unnecessary discussion here. You can set your email program to exclude >> the >> message.Here's how to do it: >> in outlook (and every email program will have a similar setup program): >> on your pull down menu along the top, go to "tools" >> select "options"Select "send"then, untick "include messages in reply" >> Click "ok" >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 20:22:01 -0800 > From: steven hart > Subject: Re: [pbs] Emails ( REPLY TEST ONLY) > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > I'll give it a test Ina, my own method works too, but i like the sound of > yours : ) > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> There, I just did it. You highlight what you want to respond to, then >> -right- click anywhere else on the email and click on reply. >> >> I know some remove the whole previous email, but I find that confusing >> to read. >> >> Ina >> >> On 16/02/2012 2:21 p.m., steven hart wrote: >> > if you highlight what you >> > > want to -keep- in your reply, >> >> -- >> Ina Crossley >> Auckland New Zealand zone 10a >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:26:56 -0800 > From: steven hart > Subject: [pbs] Lilium cutting experiment > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > This was an experiment i did in October last year, it is a Lilium regale > that i grew from a 7cm stem cutting, it was not a baby plant like > sometimes > grow on lilies after flowering, rather a true stem cutting, that grew > roots > & shot from the node.. I never realised they could be grown from cutting & > i wonder if others have ever tried this experiment ? > > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/67167299@N04/6884719315/in/photostream > > In this photo there is a tiny Australian native stingless bee heavily > laden > with pollen & having trouble with lift off : ) > http://www.flickr.com/photos/67167299@N04/6884719315/in/photostream > > Steven > Esk Queensland Australia Zone 5 > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:32:05 -0500 (EST) > From: The Silent Seed > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilium cutting experiment > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <8CEBA837418477E-8B0-25B5F@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > When I dig up lilies, often if the bulb was originally planted rather > deep, the stem from the bulb, up to the soil surface, will have roots and > new babies developing the whole way up, so this doesn't surprise me. > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 00:32:28 -0500 (EST) > From: The Silent Seed > Subject: Re: [pbs] Lilium cutting experiment > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <8CEBA8381CAA7E2-8B0-25B67@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > The second photo is the same as the first :) > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Wed, 15 Feb 2012 21:38:44 -0800 > From: Max Withers > Subject: [pbs] Lachenalia blooming was Emails > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > For Gmail users: Click on the vaguely gear-like icon at the upper > right --> Settings --> Labs --> Enable "Quote selected text" > > Of course, those of us who use many different email clients on many > different platforms are still liable to make mistakes... As I did when > I sent a message to the whole list a few weeks ago that I meant to > send to Mary Sue. I'd like to apologize for that, and especially for > the implication that members with less-than-perfect English are > unwelcome, which was not at all what I intended. I think we all agree > about that. > > I haven't responded both because I'm too busy, and because I did not > want to make the situation worse by adding yet another email to > everyone's inbox about something in no way related to geophytes (which > was why I wanted to send the message to Mary Sue in the first > place...) We are all here to learn about (or at least talk about) > bulbs, not email clients or spelling or how to use the internet. I > want to sincerely apologize for contributing to that problem. > > Thus, the interesting part of this email: > Lachenalia orchioides var. orchioides is in full bloom, farther along > than L. aloides var. quadricolor, which normally, for me, gets started > in early December. L. orchioides, from seed, bloomed last year in late > Feb. for the first time; it got a LOT of sun this winter. L. aloides > got less sun but not I think less than usual; however, its pot is > incredibly overcrowded (from I think 3 bulbs purchased from Odyssey > Bulbs in 2007, I now have at least 14 scapes, and many more plants). > In short, either crowding delays but does not reduce flowering in L. > aloides, or extreme (winter) sun hastens flowering in L. orchiodes. > (Or both). > > L. orchioides var. orchioides might be described as the kind of plant > only a mother could love. It's all green with a yellowish tinge at the > edge of the petaloid tepals. But the variation in leaf spotting is > astonishing (I have 5 plants from a single packet of Silverhill seed) > -- and even more variable are the tiny cyan (think Ixia viridiflora) > speckles on the sepaloid tepals: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/badthings/6850195117/in/photostream > > These small epiphanies are why I grow bulbs! (And enjoy reading emails > about bulbs from others who grow them). > > Best, > Max Withers > Oakland CA > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 34 > ************************************ From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:25:46 -0600 Dear Friends, I guess I am a professional when it comes to seed envelopes because I have purchased and used 10s of 1,000s as co chairman of the SIGNA Seed Exchange. Belive me not all envelopes are created equally. We use 1 3/4 x 2 3/4 in. glassine for its light weight (makes a big difference if you are sending or storing a lot of seeds), for its semi transparency, easy of use, ease of seal , low price, relative availability etc. Even all glassine envelopes are not equal. Some really cheap version have a zig-zag, ragged cut opening that makes handling of seed very difficult. Some packets open along the side, another problem. We have seen samples of envelopes from many suppliers. We use the same envelopes as NARGS and can recommend them. If you have any questions I'd be glad to give specifics. We used to use brown paper coin envelopes, but rejected them early on. As we did to small zip seal plastic packets. SO if you are serious seed about collecting, storing and sending seeds, glassine are the things to use. There are some seeds that have special needs that may not be suited to these standard seed envelopes, but not many. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <1329409975.86723.YahooMailNeo@web84506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 08:32:55 -0800 (PST) Last year a friend who gardens in nearby Alexandria, Virginia, called me to tell me about a strange plant blooming in her garden. It turned out that the strange plant was Notholirion thomsinianum, and what made this even stranger  was the source of the plant: it had come from Jane McGary in 2006. That was funny because I also received a bulb of Notholirion thomsonianum in 2006 from Jane - but mine had never bloomed.  I was out in the cold frame area yesterday looking at my Notholirion thomsonianum: the cold frame is seriously overcrowded (the Arums have to go), and the Notholirion is planted right against one side of the frame so that it does not get much direct sun. I stood there wondering if it would ever bloom for me. Its foliage was partially hidden under the arum foliage, so I reached down to pull it out into the light. As I did so, I felt something firm and upright: there is an inflorescence on the way up!  This puts me in a rather exclusive club: I doubt if many people have flowered a Notholirion in eastern North America - or even kept one going for six years. But I would trade that "exclusivity" in a minute to be back in the "club" which annually received a package from Jane. Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org   From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:25 -0800 Message-Id: <1329410842.44703.YahooMailNeo@web84505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 08:47:22 -0800 (PST) Reticulate irises started to bloom here in the greater Washington, D.C. area this week.  Earlier this week a friend lamented in an email that bulbs received as reticulate iris  'Frank Elder' were starting to bloom but were not true to name. They appear to be another nice reticulate cultivar, Lady Beatrix Stanley.  I had ordered 'Frank Elder' from the same source, and my plants are not starting to bloom and they too are Lady Beatrix Stanley.  I've had 'Frank Elder' from other sources in the past, but I've never been able to from a clear sense of how it differs from the very similar 'Katharine Hodgkin'. Now I wonder if I've ever had the real thing. I also have 'Sheila Ann Germaney' (from Jane McGary) and it is distinct.  There might be more excitement on the way: the same firm offered bulbs of Vinogradov"s iris at an irresistible price. Mine are about to bloom, and the emerging sprout looks like no other reticulate iris I've grown in the past. I soooooo want these to be Vinogradov's iris, a species I've known about all my adult life. In the past the price kept it out of reach. I hope I'm not about to be disappointed.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org   From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 17:24:42 +0000 Frank Elder is a greener more spotty version of Katharine Hodgkin. Sheila Ann Germaney is the the clearest in colour with no green/ yellow hue to speak of, I have never grown or even seen "Tantallon" which is supposed to be a little smaller. I believe all three are children of Iris winowgradowii and Iris histroides 'Major' Iris winowgradowii is stoloniferous and appreciates similar conditions to Erethroniums for me. I bought my first bulb of Winowgradowii when I was nine, 34 years ago. I think it cost ten or 12 pounds! I had to have it. Except for the fact that I already have them now, I would happily trade the hybrids in preference for either Iris winowgradowii or Iris histroides Lady Beatrix Stanley. Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 4:47 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Earlier this week a friend lamented in an email that bulbs received as > reticulate iris 'Frank Elder' were starting to bloom but were not true to > name. They appear to be another nice reticulate cultivar, Lady Beatrix > Stanley. > > I've had 'Frank Elder' from other sources in the past, but I've never been > able to from a clear sense of how it differs from the very similar > 'Katharine Hodgkin'. Now I wonder if I've ever had the real thing. I also > have 'Sheila Ann Germaney' (from Jane McGary) and it is distinct. > > There might be more excitement on the way: the same firm offered bulbs of > Vinogradov"s iris at an irresistible price. Mine are about to bloom, and > the emerging sprout looks like no other reticulate iris I've grown in the > past. > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329418215.51115.YahooMailNeo@web84512.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:50:15 -0800 (PST) I'll bet I'm not the only one who does this! Back during the holidays I purchased two (and later a third) Cyclamen persicum; these are the small ones (actually probably close to the size of the wild forms), not the giant ones. These small ones sometimes have a great scent, and the pinks and whites seem especially and agreeably fragrant to me. The foliage of these is also extremely ornamental with beautifully detailed patterns of silver on green. Thanks to the mild weather, but for three nights I've been able to keep these outside continually since they were purchased. They keep pushing up new flowers and seem to relish the day after day of sunny but cold ( although above freezing) conditions.  So far I have not learned how to keep these going from year to year. I expect them to continue to bloom right through April or so; during the summer I'll forget about them and then when I clean the frames in the autumn I'll find the mummified corms. There are so many other distractions in the summer that I've never taken the time to figure out if I'm keeping them too dry or too wet. Since the corms don't rot (they shrink and get hard), I suspect I'm keeping them too dry.  As a result, I'm inclined to regard these as throw away plants to be enjoyed while in bloom and then discarded. This attitude in turn is very contrary to my pervasive sense of frugality. The result is guilt. The antidote to the guilt is creative accounting. I now pro-rate or amortize the value of these plants. They cost $5 each when purchased, but since I've had them for about 50 days now, the "cost" has come down to about 10 cents per day. by the time I abandon them for the summer, it will be down to mere pennies.   OK, 'fess up: I'm not the only one who does this, am I? Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org   From totototo@telus.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3CE163.18559.C9FAA8@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:58:43 -0800 On 16 Feb 2012, at 8:47, Jim McKenney wrote: > There might be more excitement on the way: the same firm offered bulbs of > Vinogradov"s iris at an irresistible price. Mine are about to bloom, and the > emerging sprout looks like no other reticulate iris I've grown in the past. I > soooooo want these to be Vinogradov's iris, a species I've known about all my > adult life. In the past the price kept it out of reach. I hope I'm not about to > be disappointed. You won't be disappointed if those bulbs are the Real Thing. I bought a single bulb of Vinogradov's iris (Iris veenogradovee-ee, not weenogradowee-ee) from Ed Lohbrunner in 1984 and still have that clone going, plus a pot grown from seed from a Polish source about twenty years ago. The Lohbrunner clone is a slightly deeper color and preferable in my opinion. I grow mine in pots that are kept in a coldframe over winter to protect them from our heavy winter rainfall. never had the nerve to risk any out in the garden, though Katherine Hodgkin does well if I site it with care, up out of my wintertime squelch and ooze. The bulbs of I.w. CANNOT handle severe drying off or baking, unlike many other reticulate irises. I almost lost my stock of the Lohbrunner clone one summer after leaving them in the bright sun. It has never grown as well for me as when I had it in a large terra cotta pot plunged in a sand bed in full sun and watered it every morning with the cold tea left over from the previous day's breakfast. I.w. grows much better with weak liquid low-nitrogen fertilizer applied a few times during the growing season. If you bring potted specimens into the house when in flower and get busy with a small camel hair brush, you can get seed, sometimes in plenitude. And the seed is entirely viable. Maybe the Dutch have latched onto Vinogradov's iris, just as they did 'Katherine Hodgkin' a few years ago, and are turning it into a mass market item? One can only hope! Good luck, Jim! It's a very beautiful plant. And being pale yellow, a color I am obscenely partial to, it's beyond beauty in my view. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From totototo@telus.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3CE163.29947.C9FA71@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Coin envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 10:58:43 -0800 On 16 Feb 2012, at 7:57, Gene Mirro wrote: > Amazon.com has them. Just get on their website and search for coin > envelopes. However, Amazon and its sellers generally do not ship anything except books and music outside the US. Moreover, Amazon subsidiaries in other countries do not carry the same extensive range of goods as Amazon.us (aka Amazon.com). Even Amazon.canada carries only a small fraction of what Amazon.usa does. The only way around this is to have the goods sent to someone you know in the US and have them forward them - which is trouble! Ina is in New Zealand. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From bonsaigai37@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBAF49CFE7FC6-1748-2AD46@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:02:07 -0500 (EST) I think we're in the majority when it comes to the mass produced Cyclamen. The hardy ones, I'm far more inclined nurture. Michael NY, Zone 6 The result is guilt. The antidote to the guilt is creative accounting. I now pro-rate or amortize the value of these plants. They cost $5 each when purchased, but since I've had them for about 50 days now, the "cost" has come down to about 10 cents per day. by the time I abandon them for the summer, it will be down to mere pennies. OK, 'fess up: I'm not the only one who does this, am I? Jim McKenney From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329419889.91290.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:18:09 -0800 (PST) Michael wrote: "I think we're in the majority when it comes to the mass produced Cyclamen.  The hardy ones, I'm far more inclined nurture." Michael, I must have given the wrong impression: I'm very taken by these mass produced fragrant small Cyclamen persicum. In my opinion they are well worth the nurturing - I just have not figured out what to do when. Jim McKenney From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:20:14 -0800 Like Jim Waddick, I have a lot of experience with seed envelopes, because for three years in the mid-1990s I handled the intake phase of the massive NARGS Seed Exchange. People sent seeds in every imaginable kind of packet. One donor saved all her tea-bag individual paper jackets for this purpose. From eastern Europe we received carefully handmade packets, unfortunately often constructed of very fragile thin paper that seeds broke through. I myself use brown paper coin envelopes most of the time because they hold more than glassines and are easy to write on, but I agree with Jim that the paper ones have drawbacks. They often leak at the bottom and have to be taped, and if there is moisture in the seeds (e.g., Paeonia) they will lose their glue and fall apart. I keep two sizes of these envelopes handy, as the larger ones can be stuffed with whole capsules for drying and later cleaning, and then reused. I get them at office supply stores, but they're getting harder and harder to find, especially in multiple sizes. You can get glassines that are self-sealing, but I don't like them because the seeds can stick to the adhesive when you're filling or emptying the envelope. NARGS has now abandoned these for non-adhesive glassines that you have to seal with a glue stick (messy) or tape (tedious). Not all writing implements will write clearly on this type of paper; a fine-tipped Sharpie pen is best. Some seed suppliers send out seeds in little poly zip-lock bags, known as sample bags (you can get them from scientific suppliers or geological suppliers). I don't like them because the seeds stick inside the bags and have to be scraped out (a lab scoop is good for this). Also, if the seeds are not dry enough, they can mold and rot in plastic bags. The home-made "origami" envelopes Kathleen Sayce mentioned are good to know about if you find some good seeds and have no envelopes with you, but they're not well liked by people handling exchanges because they can fall apart during shipping and handling, and one doesn't know quite what will happen when one goes to open them. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3D5725.9010607@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Coin envelopes Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 08:21:09 +1300 True, I tried. Ina On 17/02/2012 7:58 a.m., Rodger Whitlock wrote: > Amazon and its sellers generally do not ship > outside the US. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From bonsaigai37@aol.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBAF88B63C71E-1748-2B0B3@webmail-d073.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:30:16 -0500 (EST) OH!!! I do love them too, for fragrance and all their beauty. I've grown them from seed, had them a few years and <<>> killed them. Keeping them cool in summer, shaded from hot sun, under a tree, lightly watered - worked for me in the past. If you have the cool, non-freezing winter room, you have idea growing conditions. They are quite well worth keeping, I've just killed more than my fair share! Michael -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thu, Feb 16, 2012 2:18 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] The devious calculus of plant acquisition Michael wrote: "I think we're in the majority when it comes to the mass produced Cyclamen. The hardy ones, I'm far more inclined nurture." Michael, I must have given the wrong impression: I'm very taken by these mass produced fragrant small Cyclamen persicum. In my opinion they are well worth the nurturing - I just have not figured out what to do when. Jim McKenney From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3D5B32.7040007@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 08:38:26 +1300 Jim, I of course in mild climate Auckland, have them surviving just fine in the garden. Almost all go into the leafless bare corm state. They are in a place where they get little sun, and are open to what rain we get, and we get quite a bit. So with the lack of sun, and the occasional rain, they would not dry out completely. Which is probably a state which needs to be duplicated in the cold frame. They come away and make a marvellous show every winter. And yes, some corms don't survive but the seedlings make up for it. Ina On 17/02/2012 8:18 a.m., Jim McKenney wrote: > In my opinion they are well worth the nurturing - I just have not figured out what to do when -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Notholirion thomsonianum, was] Major excitement in the cold frame Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:47:47 -0800 Jim McKenney wrote, "I was out in the cold frame area yesterday looking at my Notholirion thomsonianum: the cold frame is seriously overcrowded (the Arums have to go), and the Notholirion is planted right against one side of the frame so that it does not get much direct sun. I stood there wondering if it would ever bloom for me. Its foliage was partially hidden under the arum foliage, so I reached down to pull it out into the light. As I did so, I felt something firm and upright: there is an inflorescence on the way up! >This puts me in a rather exclusive club: I doubt if many people have >flowered a Notholirion in eastern North America - or even kept one >going for six years. But I would trade that "exclusivity" in a >minute to be back in the "club" which annually received a package from Jane." The club no longer exists, thanks to my move to a smaller place and retirement from the seasonal bulb distribution, but since Jim was in the habit of ordering one of almost everything, he ought to be pretty well supplied by now. Many of the items have been shared with Mark Akimoff of Illahe Nursery, who sent out his first summer bulb shipments in 2011 and will continue to increase the offerings. As for Notholirion thomsonianum, it does best in full sun and needs a lot of room for its copious foliage and tall flowering stems. It is hardy outdoors to the upper teens Fahrenheit (about minus 6 C, perhaps), and perhaps colder. Like Cardiocrinum, it has a monocarpic bulb that disappears after flowering, but unlike Cardiocrinum, it makes very many offsets in hard tunics, and probably will do so even if abused like Jim's plant. Flowering is encouraged by keeping it fairly dry in summer. This is a bulb from the dry part of the Himalaya region. The flowers, up to 15 or so on a good scape, are large, narrowly funnel-shaped and an unusual lavender-buff color. They are sweetly fragrant. Somebody donated, or tried to donate, it to the NARGS seed exchange this past fall and it came up in the batch I was packaging, but it was only chaff and had to be discarded. I have, however, grown it from exchange seed, but now depend on the hundreds of bulbils one finds tucked into the larger bulbs' tunics. By now I have flowers most years from a succession of bulbs of different ages. I just have it in the bulb house now, free in a raised bed, but have also grown it in the open garden in rock and sand. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 11:55:20 -0800 I agree with Peter Taggart that >Iris winogradowii is stoloniferous and appreciates similar conditions to >Erythroniums for me. Unfortunately, I have never been able to maintain it for more than three years, but I look forward to trying again in the new garden, or perhaps in moist side of the bulb house where pots are no longer used. In addition to the reticulate irises other correspondents mention, I have one in flower here called 'Halkis', which was given me some years ago by Wim de Goede. It is a very attractive bicolored flower with little or no yellow in the markings. I don't know whether it's a species selection or a hybrid. Does anyone know? A problem with Reticulata irises is getting disease-free stock, so I always order seeds when possible and have some really vigorous I. reticulata from wild seed, but no other species. To depart to another section, the first Juno (Scorpiris) are flowering here, including Iris stenophylla ssp. stenophylla, which bloomed a couple of weeks later than ssp. allisonii. I grew the former from wild-collected seed from a Czech supplier. It is taller and larger than allisonii and deeper in color. I'm also glad to see 'Sindpers' emerging in the new rock garden -- in this climate it does better in the open than under cover. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From ajzw@wp.pl Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4f3d63e360c226.36158706@wp.pl> From: =?ISO-8859-2?Q?Jacek_Zwoli=F1ski?= Subject: Odp: Did Europe steal North America's winter cold? Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 21:15:31 +0100 I do not think this winter is exceptionally cold, especially in Central Europe. Temps down to -25 C are completely nomal here. The pictures you show originate mainly from the mountains of mediterranean region known for extreme snowfall (Romania, Bosnia). May be, the extent of cold towards west and south is exceptional, I do not know. Rather atumn's end and first half of winter were exceptionally warm in this part o the world, almost without freezing. My cyclamens (coum) started to bloom first days of January. Before the frost arrival, snowdrops (G. elwesii and ikariae) were well developed, just before blooming. Soon I will see the damages, if any. All plants are in the open garden, of course. Intriguing will be the fate of my Ipheions. Directly from Uruguay..... Those who have never lived in similar climate I inform that ground is deeply frozen in my garden now, down to may be 50 cm deep. And the bulbs have to survive this condition. And many do. They will also have to survive the thaw period when they will be temporarily soaked in water out of melting snow. Yet, in order to protect the bulbs, I plant them deep. For instance cyclamens I plant at least 5 cm deep though I try to plant more than 10 cm deep. Those who believe that deep planting of cyclamen tubers kills the plant I invite to my garden. Jacek, Poland, zone 6 Dnia 15-02-2012 o godz. 22:02 Lee Poulsen napisał(a): > Just saw this photo essay about the really cold weather Europe has had > over the past two weeks: > . While > we've been complaining about everything leafing out and blooming way too > early over here, it appears a number of places in Europe have had some > really cold weather recently. Snow in Rome and Istanbul, 14°F > temperatures in Zone 8 France and Netherlands. I hope no one has lost > any of their plants. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 20:22:36 +0000 Jim, most (if not all cyclamens) have perennial roots that must not shrivel completely. You are dessicating them to death, more an herbarium specimen than a cultivated plant. From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <8074CFC7-2CC2-41CC-980D-3AE0FE963D00@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:29:35 -0800 Jane wrote: The home-made "origami" envelopes Kathleen Sayce mentioned are good to know about if you find some good seeds and have no envelopes with you, but they're not well liked by people handling exchanges because they can fall apart during shipping and handling, and one doesn't know quite what will happen when one goes to open them. These are actually folded moss packets, widely used by byrologists and lichenologists. I absolutely agree that when you open them, they can toss their contents quite easily. I use them only when desperate. I much prefer good quality glassine bags for dry seeds, and small (moss collecting) bags for seed pods, large seeds, and damp to wet seeds. In the field, I carry the smallest brown paper bags (kraft paper) I can find in the local hardware store (they order blocks of bags for me, which I think come in units of 200), then I dry, clean, and transfer the seeds to glassine bags. Yes, my hardware store still sells loose hardware parts instead of prebagging everything in plastic. They use sturdy, and very small, kraft paper bags. Sheets of pre-gummed paper labels (the kind you feed through printers for mailings) make it easy to label glassine packets, by the way. Write on them, peel them off, stick them on the glassine bag. Reduces the hunt for the right ink pen to write on the packet, and helps me write much more neatly. I need all the help I can get to write neatly, I find. Kathleen From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329424662.81511.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:37:42 -0800 (PST) In calling that iris Vinogradov's iris, I was of course hinting broadly about the "proper" pronunciation of the botanical name. Roger didn't miss a beat and picked right up on that.  I know many of you find these discussions of pronunciation tiring (and no doubt you have more colorful ways of describing it among yourselves), but for some of us they are both entertaining and informative. If you belong to the "not another discussion about spelling and grammar" group, now is the time to do delete. Although I've saved something for this group at the end.  I have two quibbles with what Roger wrote. One is minor, one is bigger. What follows is not meant to be a correction of what Roger wrote, but rather is better thought of as an attempt at taking the discussion to a finer level of  granularity of detail.  Both concern things implied in Roger's otherwise good phonetic spelling of the name, Iris veenogradovee-ee. Roger represented both of the letters i at the end of the name winogradowii by "ee". Actually, they are not the same sound. In the Latinized name the first one is a short i and the final one is a long i. The first one is the short i which is the standard connecting vowel used to form compound words in Latin. The second one is the long i which indicates the singular masculine genitive case. If you are wondering how this could make any conceivable difference, here's the explanation. Those of you who remember the rules for determining the position of the stress know that a long vowel in the next to last syllable in a word gets the stress. Pronouncing both vowels as long vowels would put the stress on the wrong syllable: again, using Roger's phonetic spelling, veenogradoVEEee. But since that vowel is actually short in the Latin version of the word, the stress falls back another syllable and we should say veenograDOve-ee.  I notice that Roger, perhaps in the spirit of discretion being the better part of valor, did not give a phonetic spelling for Iris. So I will: the full name in crude phonetic spelling is EE-ris veenograDOve-ee. Here's the part I've saved for the scoffers. Two years ago I found myself among a group of people from the plant world, all of them new acquaintances. We were selling plants, each of us at his or her own table. When things got slow, we talked plants. One of the guys overheard me using the Latin pronunciations for plant names and bold as brass announced to the group that I was pretentious. I tried, briefly, to reason with him, but he just got madder and madder. So for those of you who dislike these discussions so much. perhaps you can take some consolation in knowing that I've already gotten a pungent and piquant ear full of the point of view of the scoffers.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org    From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: bulbous iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 20:39:49 +0000 I may be wrong but I believe Iris "Halkis" is a wild selection of Iris reticulata made by Norman Stevens, named for the place it was found. Try potting I winowgradowii in leaf mould with some fertiliser Jane. Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 7:55 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > > In addition to the reticulate irises other correspondents mention, I > have one in flower here called 'Halkis', which was given me some > years ago by Wim de Goede. It is a very attractive bicolored flower > with little or no yellow in the markings. I don't know whether it's a > species selection or a hybrid. Does anyone know? > From totototo@telus.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3CF942.9053.8DE5@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:40:34 -0800 On 16 Feb 2012, at 11:20, Jane McGary wrote: > I keep two sizes of these envelopes handy, as the larger ones can be stuffed > with whole capsules for drying and later cleaning, and then reused. I get > them at office supply stores, but they're getting harder and harder to find, > especially in multiple sizes. I prefer the plastic tubs that yogurt, sour cream, and similar edibles are packaged in, for drying seed before cleaning and packaging. I just put them on in a spare room where they get no direct sun in the summer, and have good air circulation. It's not practical to label these tubs, so I put a slip of paper in each one with the name of the plant on it. Even the tiny plastic containers used for coffee cream, sides of salsa, and such in restaurants are usable for small amounts of seed, but some of these are on the top heavy side. Be sure your cat doesn't take a flying leap up onto the surface the tubs of seed are sitting on! My Cuddles got yelled out and forcibly thrust out of the room when she did that in a fit of enthusiasm for peering out a window she normally doesn't get acess to. For really bulky collections, brown paper lunch bags work very well, or even full sized brown paper grocery bags. Staple them shut if the plant likes to explode its seed when the capsules dry. Yes, alstroemeria, I'm referring to you. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From othonna@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 12:51:27 -0800 Jim, The Cyclamen species are more persistent in my experience; the hybrids I tend to "lose" in summer also. I think this is largely because breeding has converted the original germplasm into a greenhouse crop that is much less well suited to other environments. Same with poinsettias and many others that are throw aways and not even good pot subjects. Agreed that cooler summers are important in dormancy, but the key really is cooler nights. Here the summer are warm to hot (always some days in the 100sF) but nights generally 60-65F. Lower humidity here helps, too. I keep C. rohlfsianum and eastern forms of C. persicum completely dry and well shaded over summer. When these variables are in order the root systems will not desiccate during dormancy. Glad to hear others enjoy the fragrance of Cyclamen, too! They are the most wonderful plants-- beautiful and endlessly varying foliage patterns, compact habit, a caudex or tuber, great flowers, etc. It is a great disappointment they are scarcely grown in this highly suitable area as garden or pot plants. Dylan Hannon Los Angeles, CA From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329428086.51265.YahooMailNeo@web84517.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Notholirion thomsonianum, was] Major excitement in the cold frame Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:34:46 -0800 (PST) Jane McGary wrote of Notholirion thomsonianum: "Like Cardiocrinum, it has a monocarpic bulb that disappears after flowering, but unlike Cardiocrinum, it  makes very many offsets in hard tunics, and probably will do so even  if abused like Jim's plant. " If by bulb you mean a bud for growth surrounded by fleshy, modified storage leaves, then all bulbs are monocarpic, in the same sense that the flowers of all plants are monocarpic.  Why is it any more serviceable (i.e what more does it tell us)  to call a bulb (the structure) monocarpic than to call a flower monocarpic? It isn't: as far as I can see. I don't recall anyone ever calling a flower monocarpic, so why should one call bulbs monocarpic?   But since the growth buds in bulbs are generally accompanied by other growth buds attached to the same basal plate in less advanced stages of development, true monocarpy is evidently unknown in bulbous taxa. I invite anyone to provide an example of a truly monocarpic bulbous taxon. What passes for monocarpy in bulbous taxa is circumstantial -i.e. not an inherent characteristic of the plant but rather a reflection of the growing circumstances of the plant in question (i.e. something killed it after it fruited once).    Also, considering that it both produces offsets and blooms, I would guess that Jim's abused plant likes the abuse.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org    From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329428101.54056.YahooMailClassic@web160702.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame (Jim McKenney) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:35:01 -0800 (PST) In the cold frame,Notholirion thomsonianum; there is an inflorescence on the way up!? Jim McKenney: I hope you can send a picture in!I tried to get that species growing from seed; but no luck. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame (Jim McKenney) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 21:52:00 +0000 You can most easily grow it from offsets as has been mentioned here. The combination of laender flowers with orange anthers is very attractive. Few bulbs have lavender flowers ( I can only think of hybrid Liliums). From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329429444.10077.YahooMailClassic@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame -Arum Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 13:57:24 -0800 (PST) Jim,  Curious to know what Arum you house in a cold frame vs. planting them outside. I know the topic of Arum hardiness has been discussed several times, but I find very few of the species on the tender side (those that died may not have been due to tenderness).  I grow the following outside for more than two winters with lows to 7F and nearly a week, last year, of high daytime temperatures below freezing. This winter has not been a challenge for anything. None of these get special treatment; no amended soil, extra mulch, near the house, etc. Surprisingly A. pictum looks better outside than concinnatum, hygrophilum, and one clone of italicum from southern Italy. Arum idaeum and A. apulum died the first winter here, but was not likely cold that did it.  Arum albispathum  Arum alpinum 2-4 clones  Arum aff. byzantinum  Arum concinnatum 4 clones  Arum creticum ex Pilous  Arum dioscoridis  Arum hygrophilum  Arum italicum numerous clones  Arum maculatum  Arum nigrum 2 clones  Arum orientale  Arum pictum ex Ceni  Arum rupicola 2 clones  Arum sintensii  Aaron  Knoxville, TN zone 6-7 --- On Fri, 2/17/12, Jim McKenney wrote: From: Jim McKenney Subject: [pbs] Major excitement in the cold frame To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Friday, February 17, 2012, 12:32 AM  the cold frame is seriously overcrowded (the Arums have to go), From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329430829.58557.YahooMailNeo@web84508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame (Jim McKenney) Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:20:29 -0800 (PST) Alberto wrote: " Few bulbs have lavender flowers ( I can only think of hybrid Liliums)." As mentioned, I saw this species in bloom in the garden of a friend last summer. When I first looked at it, the first thing which came to mind was Lycoris squamigera, a cool pink with a cast of blue and a pearly luster. Jim McKenney From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame -Arum Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 22:45:39 +0000 I keep Arums in pots to contain them. I lost creticum last winter (-18c) and a couple of others, but I admit the creticum was not properly plunged. Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 9:57 PM, aaron floden wrote: > Jim, > > Curious to know what Arum you house in a cold frame vs. planting them > outside. I know the topic of Arum hardiness has been discussed several > times, but I find very few of the species on the tender side (those that > died may not have been due to tenderness). > > I grow the following outside for more than two winters with lows to 7F > and nearly a week, last year, of high daytime temperatures below freezing. > This winter has not been a challenge for anything. None of these get > special treatment; no amended soil, extra mulch, near the house, etc. > Surprisingly A. pictum looks better outside than concinnatum, hygrophilum, > and one clone of italicum from southern Italy. Arum idaeum and A. apulum > died the first winter here, but was not likely cold that did it. > > Arum albispathum > Arum alpinum 2-4 clones > Arum aff. byzantinum > Arum concinnatum 4 clones > Arum creticum ex Pilous > Arum dioscoridis > Arum hygrophilum > Arum italicum numerous clones > Arum maculatum > Arum nigrum 2 clones > Arum orientale > Arum pictum ex Ceni > Arum rupicola 2 clones > Arum sintensii > > Aaron > Knoxville, TN zone 6-7 > > --- On Fri, 2/17/12, Jim McKenney wrote: > > From: Jim McKenney > Subject: [pbs] Major excitement in the cold frame > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Date: Friday, February 17, 2012, 12:32 AM > > the cold frame is seriously overcrowded (the Arums have to go), > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <1329433130.67275.YahooMailNeo@web84505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame -Arum Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 14:58:50 -0800 (PST) Aaron, I'm not sure how to answer this because your experience sounds a lot like the experience of a friend who lives only about fifteen miles south of here, on the other side of the Potomac River.   But my experiences here make me very reluctant to recommend any of the winter green aroids (Ambrosina, Arisarum except proboscideum, Biarum, and Arum in general except Arum italicum) as plants for the open garden. I've been gardening on this site for fifty years, and my extremely conservative attitude about winter green aroids was shaped long ago by the really severe winters which were of regular occurrence then. It was not unknown for the temperature to stay below freezing day and night for three weeks or so. I'm pretty sure my friend mentioned above has been growing them only during recent years - we've had comparatively mild winters here for years. I think this garden might also be a comparatively cold one. For instance, winter aconites here begin to bloom about two weeks later than some only about a mile west of here on the other (sunny) side of a ridge.  You might be right when you question the factor of cold tenderness. Here mechanical damage during the winter is often an issue: the foliage gets so beaten up during alternating freezing and thawing and especially wind and ice that the plants, although they survive, become smaller year by year when grown in the open. And then the year comes when they're gone.  When the time comes to evict the big guys from the protected cold frames where they grow now (these are set against the SSW side of the house and I doubt that it has ever frozen on the inside of those frames) , I might try them in cold frames out in the open. Frames out in the open would experience long periods of below freezing temperatures, but would have the advantage of providing protection from ice and wind. That will be a good test of their cold hardiness because it will eliminate the wind/ice factors.  According to my lists (I have not actually counted bodies) the following are still duking it out in the cold frames:  AA. byzantinum, concinnatum, creticum, cyrenaicum, dioscoridis, elongatum, hygrophilum, orientale, pictum, purpureospathum,  rupicloa and sintenisii.    I'm in the throes of redesigning my garden now, and the plans include lots of cold frames for housing winter green plants. That's where the big arums will go when the time comes.  Jim McKenney From awilson@avonia.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <592803346DE34510A02C9A48FFD1CF8F@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Website checking Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 15:18:38 -0800 Has the schedule for checking on messages to the PBS site change? I have seen no new messages here in over 24 hours. The same occurred two days ago and then there was a sudden surge of them yesterday. It used to be a 2 to 6 hour check. Has that now changed to 24 hours? If so, I may not see if this message is delivered until tomorrow. Thanks Andrew From bulborum@gmail.com Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Website checking Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 00:19:56 +0100 Hello Andrew To test this I received your email at 17 Febr.00.20 French time Roland 2012/2/17 AW : > Has the schedule for checking on messages to the PBS site change? I have > seen no new messages here in over 24 hours. The same occurred two days ago > and then there was a sudden surge of them yesterday.  It used to be a 2 to 6 > hour check. Has that now changed to 24 hours? If so, I may not see if this > message is delivered until tomorrow. > > Thanks > > Andrew > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Website checking Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 23:35:29 +0000 Hi, In message <592803346DE34510A02C9A48FFD1CF8F@Desktop>, AW writes >Has the schedule for checking on messages to the PBS site change? We have problems. Normally the archive updates every three hours. But something changed at the host on the morning of the 14th. I am attempting to get them to sort things out, in the meantime updates are being done manually, once per day. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From leo@possi.org Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:36:26 -0800 Message-Id: <3554fecac3e6c1b7056e9ee68922e8f9.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:22:08 -0800 (PST) Jane McGary wrote > Some seed suppliers send out seeds in little poly zip-lock bags, > known as sample bags (you can get them from scientific suppliers or > geological suppliers). I also don't like these because of the damp seed rot issue, but if you like them, many sizes can often be found at craft stores like Michael's in the USA. It seems beadwork people use them to hold and sort beads. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From russell@odysseybulbs.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <20120217004433.42F83E8D14@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Russell Stafford Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 19:37:49 -0500 Migrating to Maine for the summer might be your best bet, Jim. Russell At 02:18 PM 2/16/2012, you wrote: >Michael, I must have given the wrong impression: I'm very taken by >these mass produced fragrant small Cyclamen persicum. In my opinion >they are well worth the nurturing - I just have not figured out what >to do when. Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 16:51:46 -0800 If you live in the USA and can shop at Costco, they sell various sizes, including fairly small, of good-quality brown paper bags in blocks of several hundred. I always used these for holding my bulbs while filling sale orders, and when I moved to my new place recently, I had a lot of bulbs (those without perennial roots) stored in them in the basement for a little over a month. They're easy to write on with a large marking pen and can be reused. The size sold for, I think, holding wine bottles is excellent for collecting seedheads on their stems -- I put them upside down into the bag and leave them in a dry room, and can get them to release some of the seeds that way, which is a relief from trying to clean Alliaceae and Themidaceae seed capsules. Jane McGary From totototo@telus.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3D7F42.13250.37DBA@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Thu, 16 Feb 2012 22:12:18 -0800 On 16 Feb 2012, at 12:37, Jim McKenney wrote: > In calling that iris Vinogradov's iris, I was of course hinting broadly about > the "proper" pronunciation of the botanical name. Roger didn't miss a beat and > picked right up on that. Knowing the correct pronunciamentation of I. winogradowii (even if all you get really right is "v" instead of "w") offers a chance to participate in the blood sport known as rock gardening. I amused myself at least once by correcting one of the more pretentious members of our local club when she did the W thing. Thought she was being clever, poor dear! It's rather like someone gushing over flowering some difficult treasure and getting the response "Oh, that old thing. Grew it and decided it wasn't worth garden room." Or responding "Well, you should see my double, white-flowered, variegated form." Maybe I shouldn't reveal the seamy underside of the world of plant love? > ...Two years ago I found myself among a group of people from the plant world, > all of them new acquaintances. We were selling plants, each of us at his or > her own table. When things got slow, we talked plants. One of the guys > overheard me using the Latin pronunciations for plant names and bold as brass > announced to the group that I was pretentious. I tried, briefly, to reason > with him, but he just got madder and madder. It can get worse than being told your pronunciamentation of Latin is pretentious. Some gardeners think it's pretentious, snobby, elitist to use Latin names at all, mispronunciamentated or not. I will say that Jim's Latin teacher seemed to have more success beating the intricacies of Latin pronunciamentation into Jim than mine did getting it into me. PS: "Pronunciamentation" I use this in speech too, and so far nobody's called me on it. Har, har, har. When is the next talk-like-a-pirate day? PS#2: The Julia after whom Primula juliae was named was the daughter of Mlokosevitch, after whom Paeonia mlokosewitschii was named. PS#3: I was looking at the entry on wikitravel.org regarding Georgia (Sakartvelo) and noticed that it recommended one hire an armed escort if excursioning into at least one area. Brigandage is alive and well in the Caucasus. PS#4: I know I've drifted off topic, but hope a little comic relief is pleasing. PS#5: I got the Index Seminum from the Tbilisi Botanic Garden, and what a sad, sorry affair it was. Not one of the beautiful native plants that are so rare in cultivation was listed. I gather that like many other such institutions throughout the former USSR, it is seriously underfunded and has fallen on hard times. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Major excitement in the cold frame -Arum Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 06:30:36 +0000 What is your normal winter temperature range Jim? and your known minimum winter temperatures? I grow most of the Arum you list without cover. Normal minimums here are about minus 12 C. lst winter was much colder. Every few winters here there is a period of up to six weeks wihout thaw but most winters the pattern is freeze/ thaw, with the occasional frozen week. Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 10:58 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > But my experiences here make me very reluctant to recommend any of the > winter green aroids (Ambrosina, Arisarum except proboscideum, Biarum, and > Arum in general except Arum italicum) as plants for the open garden. > From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1488242850.98503.1329464398630.JavaMail.www@wwinf1d19> From: Mark BROWN Subject: reticulate iris and Tibilisi Botanic Garden Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 08:39:58 +0100 (CET) I was in Tibilisi Botanic Garden in 1981 and it was fascinating. The botanists were very friendly and helpful. I remember some of the treasures that they were growing.Galanthus krasnovii was one such. How sad to see that they have fallen on such bad times. The soviet union was supportive of them. A pity that ordinary gardeners can't try at least to pronounce the commemorative names corrrectly. I wonder just how many pronounce Kniphofia as it should be? Mark " Message du 17/02/12 07:12 > De : "Rodger Whitlock" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > PS#5: I got the Index Seminum from the Tbilisi Botanic Garden, and what a sad, > sorry affair it was. Not one of the beautiful native plants that are so rare in > cultivation was listed. I gather that like many other such institutions > throughout the former USSR, it is seriously underfunded and has fallen on hard > times. > > > -- > Rodger Whitlock" From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Notholirion thomsonianum, was] Major excitement in the cold frame Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 09:36:50 +0000 After they have grown and flowered some bulbs, with or without offsetts, reform eg Silla non scripta, others form offsetts but the flowerd bud dies eg Iris aucheri. The extended basal plate may survive and offsetts may occur from it. Iris rosenbachiana maintains an apparently 'blind' storage organ which does not disappear after flowering. I do not know the technical names for these variations in bulbous plants but would be happy to be told. I have often heard some Saxifrages termed "monocarpic", and Sempervivums too - their flowered rosettes die. I suppose almost by definition annual herbs are monocarpic? Peter (UK) On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 9:34 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > If by bulb you mean a bud for growth surrounded by fleshy, modified > storage leaves, then all bulbs are monocarpic, in the same sense that the > flowers of all plants are monocarpic. I don't recall anyone ever calling > a flower monocarpic, so why should one call bulbs monocarpic? But since > the growth buds in bulbs are generally accompanied by other growth buds > attached to the same basal plate in less advanced stages of development, > true monocarpy is evidently unknown in bulbous taxa. What passes for > monocarpy in bulbous taxa is circumstantial -i.e. not an inherent > characteristic of the plant but rather a reflection of the growing > circumstances of the plant in question (i.e. something killed it after it > fruited > once). > > > From ds429@comcast.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cced6a$d65cbd20$83163760$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 06:53:44 -0500 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 303" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jude Platteborze: 1. Tubers of "Alocasia X Mark Campbell" various sizes From Stephen Putman: 2. Seeds of Hippeastrum nelsonii (LIMITED SUPPLY) From Monica Swartz: 3. Bulbs of Ledebouria cooperi, ex BX 169. 4. Seeds of Ornithogalum glandulosum, ex Jim Duggan Flower Nursery 5. Seeds of Chlorophytum orchidantheroides or amaniense. Yes, the Chlorophytum is geophytic. They have big fat storage roots and some individuals die back to the ground in winter. I recommend that this species NOT be grown in frost free areas because it is very fecund and could become invasive. Sow seeds thinly because most seeds germinate and since most of the plant is below ground, the pot will get too crowded very fast. The flashy orange leaf bases will develop after the first year. From Fereydoun Sharifi: SEEDS: MOST IN VERY LIMITED SUPPLY; ONLY ONE ORDER OF MOST 6. Boophane disticha 7. Boophane haemanthoides 8. Brunsvigia radulosa 9. Calydorea amabilis 10. Ceropegia ampliata (Asclepidaceae) 11. Ceropegia macmasteri 12. Cipura paludosa 13. Cyclamen graecum anatolicum 14. Cyclamen hederifolium 'Perlenteppich' 15. Cyclamen x hildebrandtii 16. Cyrtanthus falcatus 17. Cyrtanthus galpinii 18. Diplarrhena moraea 19. Gladiolus miniatus 20. Gladiolus sericeo-villosus 21. Gladiolus vandermerwei 22. Iris (Juno) albomarginata 23. Iris (Juno) aucheri, white and dark 24. Iris (Juno) zenaidae 25. Narcissus miniatus, ex Seville, Spain 26. Scadoxus puniceus 27. Zephyra elegans Thank you, Jude, Stephen, Monica, and Fereydoun !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From lmf@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <007f01cced6f$08a14040$19e3c0c0$@ab.ca> From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 05:24:02 -0700 #2 please Dell if possible Linda Foulis 4620 43 Ave Red Deer, AB T4N 3C6 Thank you -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dell Sherk Sent: February-17-12 4:54 AM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 303" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org .... If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Jude Platteborze: 1. Tubers of "Alocasia X Mark Campbell" various sizes From Stephen Putman: 2. Seeds of Hippeastrum nelsonii (LIMITED SUPPLY) From Monica Swartz: 3. Bulbs of Ledebouria cooperi, ex BX 169. 4. Seeds of Ornithogalum glandulosum, ex Jim Duggan Flower Nursery 5. Seeds of Chlorophytum orchidantheroides or amaniense. Yes, the Chlorophytum is geophytic. They have big fat storage roots and some individuals die back to the ground in winter. I recommend that this species NOT be grown in frost free areas because it is very fecund and could become invasive. Sow seeds thinly because most seeds germinate and since most of the plant is below ground, the pot will get too crowded very fast. The flashy orange leaf bases will develop after the first year. From Fereydoun Sharifi: SEEDS: MOST IN VERY LIMITED SUPPLY; ONLY ONE ORDER OF MOST 6. Boophane disticha 7. Boophane haemanthoides 8. Brunsvigia radulosa 9. Calydorea amabilis 10. Ceropegia ampliata (Asclepidaceae) 11. Ceropegia macmasteri 12. Cipura paludosa 13. Cyclamen graecum anatolicum 14. Cyclamen hederifolium 'Perlenteppich' 15. Cyclamen x hildebrandtii 16. Cyrtanthus falcatus 17. Cyrtanthus galpinii 18. Diplarrhena moraea 19. Gladiolus miniatus 20. Gladiolus sericeo-villosus 21. Gladiolus vandermerwei 22. Iris (Juno) albomarginata 23. Iris (Juno) aucheri, white and dark 24. Iris (Juno) zenaidae 25. Narcissus miniatus, ex Seville, Spain 26. Scadoxus puniceus 27. Zephyra elegans Thank you, Jude, Stephen, Monica, and Fereydoun !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From lmf@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <008001cced70$62193140$264b93c0$@ab.ca> From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 05:33:42 -0700 Sorry group, too early for me to be replying to anything. Linda Canada / zone 3 From plantnut@cox.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <4D912659-9AC3-482B-8107-636E42C565E2@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: The devious calculus of plant acquisition Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 08:09:59 -0800 Here is Oceanside, CA I grow Cyclamen persicum under 50% shade cloth. I water them copiously while growing from fall until late spring then let them go dormant for summer. I give them very little water during the summer months. They all set seed which fall into the pots and germinate late the next fall. Sometimes I have more seedlings than I can handle. Joe From idavide@sbcglobal.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1329503352.49313.YahooMailRC@web81001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: reticulate iris season Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 10:29:12 -0800 (PST) Here on the S.F. Peninsula, we've had a rather cold winter.  Still, the reticulatas finished about two weeks ago.  This year, all the reticulatas, including a reticulata hybrid, danfordiae and 'Katherine Hodgkin' bloomed at the same time, looking very pretty together.  This was my idea when I planted them all in a single pot, but most years they frustrate me by blooming in sequence.  Still in bloom. but coming to the end of its season is Iris suaveolens.  All the other beardeds are still a long way off.  No other irids are in blom for me yet this season. David E. ________________________________ From: Jim McKenney jamesamckenney@verizon.net Reticulate irises started to bloom here in the greater Washington, D.C. area this week.  From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1329504964.76730.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Maryland gleanings Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 10:56:04 -0800 (PST) Things continue to pop here in Maryland. I can now count flower buds on some stems of Fritillaria thunbergii. We've having the best snowdrop season ever in my experience. Two different snowdrop varieties  here have produced tetramerous flowers this year. Ranunculus ficaria, that curse of my gardening life, is now starting to bloom - so is the little blue Veronica which grows in lawns. It's such a good season for snowdrops that it's hard to understand why the crocuses are so slow this year. Although tommies have been blooming for weeks, the first two yellow sorts opened only yesterday. Iris lazica has six or seven blooms open today; they form a blue mass about a foot in diameter. Friends who grow this one locally out in the open (mine is in a cold frame) have not yet reported bloom. Finally a flower is opening on one of the Cyclamen coum: the color is an intense red.  There is a tommy blooming in the garden with the oddest color - it's a sort of tawny lilac. A pink Hyacinthus orientalis has had flowers open at ground level for about two weeks. They are not pretty in this state, but they are interesting - and fragrant.  I think this might be 'Pink Pearl', a variety known to be an early bloomer and good forcer.  The Rohdea are full of bright handsome fruit now. In an old book I was reading recently these have been called Japanese sacred lilies. The fruits of Danaë racemosa started to shrivel and lose color several weeks ago - by now they have lost their sparkle.  But its relative Ruscus aculeatus is now spangled with bright red fruits.  Danaë and Ruscus are basically abarrent asparaguses, so you asparagus enthusiasts should consider growing these, too. I've read that the young sprouts of both are edible.  Does anyone grow or know of a source for Semele? It's at the top of my wish list.    Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org From btankers@gmail.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: reticulate iris and Tibilisi Botanic Garden Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 13:01:06 -0600 Like many of the former soviet republics, Georgia is wrestling with how to transition all of the Institutes and Universities that used to be state sponsored into a position where they can support themselves. The Tbilisi Botanical Garden has 'transitioned' from an independent entity to a unit of the Institute of Botany (Herbarium) and from there to a department within a university and finally to the Tbilisi Parks Department. The staff have been very amenable to contract collecting taxa for a consortium of North American Botanical Gardens are Arboreta at very reasonable prices per taxa. Contact me privately if you would like contact information. Boyce Tankersley Director of Living Plant Documentation Chicago Botanic Garden 1000 Lake Cook Road Glencoe, IL 60022 USDA zone 5 cold continental climate on the west side (drier, less snow cover) of Lake Michigan with heavy clay soils > " Message du 17/02/12 07:12 > > De : "Rodger Whitlock" > > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > > > PS#5: I got the Index Seminum from the Tbilisi Botanic Garden, and what > a sad, > > sorry affair it was. Not one of the beautiful native plants that are so > rare in > > cultivation was listed. I gather that like many other such institutions > > throughout the former USSR, it is seriously underfunded and has fallen > on hard > > times. > > > > > > -- > > Rodger Whitlock" > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From frewintp@gmail.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: terry frewin Subject: Emails ( REPLY TEST ONLY) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 07:55:31 +1100 I just tried this on my Mac and it doesn't seem to work, also I can't find 'tools' anywhere on Gmail (Bill's suggestion), but easy enough to delete the bulk anyway, Terry On Thu, Feb 16, 2012 at 3:22 PM, steven hart < hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com> wrote: > I'll give it a test Ina, my own method works too, but i like the sound of > yours : ) > > On Wed, Feb 15, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > > > There, I just did it. You highlight what you want to respond to, then > > -right- click anywhere else on the email and click on reply. > > -- terry frewin 661 upper boho road boho 3669 03 5790 8635 0429 908 635 From santoury@aol.com Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBBCDFC9EBE01-6CC-24FF1@web-mmc-m09.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Maryland gleanings Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 15:58:08 -0500 (EST) Jim - tried to email you privately and it came back undelivered. I wanted to ask, which Rohdea do you grow? Are Ruscus and the other similar? From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1329517305.91066.YahooMailNeo@web84518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Maryland gleanings Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 14:21:45 -0800 (PST) Jude asked: " which Rohdea do you grow? Are Ruscus and the other similar?"   The rohdeas I grow are just the plain seed-grown ones - I don't have any of the teratological ones. In our climate this plant is tough as nails - you can dig them and leave them on the ground and years later they will still be alive and growing. And they're easy (I didn't say fast!) from seed. They are so striking and distinctive in the winter garden that for years I didn't know what to do with them. Now that I've seen how handsome thick masses of them are I'm going to plant the seeds systematically under the camellias.   Are  Danaë  (DAH-nah-ay to me, although a lot of people just call it Danny) and Ruscus similar? I guess it depends on what parts of them you 're looking at. As garden plants, my guess would be that most people would not connect them. Ruscus aculeatus is a hard, spiny plant, unpleasant to touch when it's alive and growing, and dangerously hard and sharp when it's dead and dry. It's definitely something you don't want to step on in your bare feet. Although not woody, they remind me of some of the spiny evergreen barberry bushes. They slowly form mounded hemispheres of what looks like foliage (but are really cladode clad stems). They give the garden a quality of stability because they change so slowly. I really like them a lot, and not just because for a long time I thought they would not grow well here. They do - at least Ruscus aculeatus does. I've also got R. hypoglossum in a cold frame and it grows well and blooms there. The flowers in both of these species are minute and greenish yellow. I have not yet seen fruit on R. hypoglossum. The cladodes of R. hypoglossum are much larger than those of R. aculeatus and they are softer. There is another species widely used in the florist trade which has much bigger cladodes on two to three foot stems - that one is probably not hardy here but it's probably grown in southern California.   Two well-loved writers, Elizabeth Lawrence and Henry Mitchell, wrote enthusiastically about Ruscus.   From a horticultural perspective, Danaë  is something else again. Seeing it for the first time, most people are clueless. There is no shame in that becasue it really is an anomaly. What they see is a soft, billowing, four foot mound of graceful, glossy "foliage"; if it's autumn, the "foliage" will be spangled with bright orange red marble sized fruit.  I put foliage in quotes because here again what look like leaves are actually cladodes. Some people guess that it's a species of clumping bamboo, others guess that it's some sort of Nandina. The common name, Alexandrian laurel, is no help - it isn't a laurel. If you like to torment people while they are guessing, tell them that it is related to asparagus and that for over a century was placed in the lily family. That won't help them a bit because it does not look like culinary asparagus (although it does have some things in common with some of the south African species of Asparagus) and it certainly doesn't suggest a typical lily family plant. You'll have a hard time convincing them that it is not a woody plant (it's not; and the stems are of annual duration and during the winter tend to lie flat on the ground if there is snow). Whereas only the ruscus enthusiast sees beauty in the ruscus (old vernacular name: butcher's broom), most people take an immediate liking to danny. .    You may very well have seen Danaë without realizing it: it is still commonly used in upscale butcher shops to decorate the meat cases. Ruscus and Danaë both last a long time when cut, and are apt to still be decorative when dry.   So, if it's so great, why doesn't everyone grow it? Part of the reason is that for a long time it was assumed to be a plant for the south only. But the main reason is that both Ruscus and Danaë are achingly slow from seed. The seed has hypogeal germination, and the first year all you see at ground level is a little green scale or fan. The next year a little two or three inch stem arises with a few cladodes. Five or six year old plants might be presentable enough to entice a purchaser. They are like peonies in that they are slow but sure. Once they get to the point where they put up a sheath of four foot stems annually, you will probably be beseiged with requests for "a start" from your garden visitors. "Oh, I'll be glad to dig out a slice". Fat chance!    Definitely a cool plant - old ones are truly magnificent and grown with camellias convey a moving sense of the halcyon south to me.     Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org From ixia@dcsi.net.au Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Emails ( REPLY TEST ONLY) Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 08:34:56 +1000 Terry, Max Withers wrote : "For Gmail users: Click on the vaguely gear-like icon at the upper right --> Settings --> Labs --> Enable "Quote selected text" >I just tried this on my Mac and it doesn't seem to work, also I can't find > 'tools' anywhere on Gmail (Bill's suggestion), but easy enough to delete > the bulk anyway, Terry regards, Bill From ds429@comcast.net Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:47:13 -0800 Message-Id: <120861985.1536111.1329525083056.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 00:31:23 +0000 (UTC) I am sorry, but that item is all gone. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX ----- Original Message ----- From: "Linda Foulis" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, February 17, 2012 7:24:02 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 #2 please Dell if possible Linda Foulis 4620 43 Ave Red Deer, AB   T4N 3C6 Thank you -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Dell Sherk Sent: February-17-12 4:54 AM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 Dear All,        The items listed below have been donated by our members to be shared.   If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 303" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/ share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. PLEASE NOTE: CURRENT POSTAL-RATE SCHEMES NECESSITATE OUR PLACING A SURCHARGE ON EACH ORDER FROM PBS BX OFFERINGS.      Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org ....          If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! >From Jude Platteborze: 1. Tubers of "Alocasia X Mark Campbell"  various sizes >From Stephen Putman: 2. Seeds of Hippeastrum nelsonii (LIMITED SUPPLY) >From Monica Swartz: 3. Bulbs of Ledebouria cooperi, ex BX 169. 4. Seeds of Ornithogalum glandulosum, ex Jim Duggan Flower Nursery 5.  Seeds of Chlorophytum orchidantheroides or amaniense.  Yes, the Chlorophytum is geophytic. They have big fat storage roots and some individuals die back to the ground in winter. I recommend that this species NOT be grown in frost free areas because it is very fecund and could become invasive. Sow seeds thinly because most seeds germinate and since most of the plant is below ground, the pot will get too crowded very fast. The flashy orange leaf bases will develop after the first year. >From Fereydoun Sharifi: SEEDS:  MOST IN VERY LIMITED SUPPLY; ONLY ONE ORDER OF MOST 6. Boophane disticha 7. Boophane haemanthoides 8. Brunsvigia radulosa 9. Calydorea amabilis 10. Ceropegia ampliata (Asclepidaceae) 11. Ceropegia macmasteri 12. Cipura paludosa 13. Cyclamen graecum anatolicum 14. Cyclamen hederifolium 'Perlenteppich' 15. Cyclamen x hildebrandtii 16. Cyrtanthus falcatus 17. Cyrtanthus galpinii 18. Diplarrhena moraea 19. Gladiolus miniatus 20. Gladiolus sericeo-villosus 21. Gladiolus vandermerwei 22. Iris (Juno) albomarginata 23. Iris (Juno) aucheri, white and dark 24. Iris (Juno) zenaidae 25. Narcissus miniatus, ex Seville, Spain 26. Scadoxus puniceus 27. Zephyra elegans Thank you, Jude, Stephen, Monica, and Fereydoun !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From richrd@nas.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: <754AD8E3-82FB-4BFF-9F9C-4DA71E57D697@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: sisyrinchium blooming and as wildlife food Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 16:55:13 -0800 Thought I would weigh in with my own images of Sisyrinchium douglassi with early blooms for a week now in a field planting. Also interesting image of deer browse damage close http://flic.kr/p/bvczx8 in row http://flic.kr/p/bvcyB6 munched plants and fertilizer left behind http://flic.kr/p/bvcz6v Deer damage is always a large problem. To save seed and flowers I often build bird net cages around plantings... Rich Haard Bellingham, Washington From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: <008f01ccedd9$d16c8ce0$7445a6a0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 17:08:25 -0800 I could use your help. A volunteer plant has shown up in a pot I obtained from a friend, and I'm having trouble identifying it. In many ways it resembles Moraea elsiae, which would be fantastic because that's a rare species and I'd like to preserve it. But in some other ways it doesn't appear to be a match. I'm wondering if maybe it's an obscure member of the Homeria group that isn't shown in my books (or on our wiki). Or maybe it's a Hexaglottis? If anyone has any thoughts, please let me know. You can see photos and a better description here: http://mikesextremegardening.blogspot.com/2012/02/mystery-moraea.html Thanks, Mike San Jose, CA From ds429@comcast.net Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: <2103428249.1537588.1329527728111.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 CLOSED Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 01:15:28 +0000 (UTC) Supplies of most things were very short and there were nearly 70 orders. Dell From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 303 CLOSED Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 17:24:17 -0800 Well , That is a good thing. Laughing here, it's not like I'm short on plants around here. Happy Spring , Dell. Rick Kyper On 2/17/12, ds429@comcast.net wrote: > > > Supplies of most things were very short and there were nearly 70 orders. > > > > Dell > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: <1329532885.36252.YahooMailNeo@web84510.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: sisyrinchium blooming and as wildlife food Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 18:41:25 -0800 (PST) Richard, I got a big kick out of your photo showing munched plants with fertilizer left behind. I've got a row of crocus which looks just like that except that our local deer did not leave their calling cards this time. I feel your pain. Jim McKenney From meneice@att.net Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Shirley Meneice" Subject: Seed envelopes Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2012 21:27:09 -0800 Thank you for the suggestion of the wine bottle-sized paper bags for collecting seed heads. Wonderful idea. Shirley Meneice -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jane McGary Sent: Thursday, February 16, 2012 4:52 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Seed envelopes If you live in the USA and can shop at Costco, they sell various sizes, including fairly small, of good-quality brown paper bags in blocks of several hundred. I always used these for holding my bulbs while filling sale orders, and when I moved to my new place recently, I had a lot of bulbs (those without perennial roots) stored in them in the basement for a little over a month. They're easy to write on with a large marking pen and can be reused. The size sold for, I think, holding wine bottles is excellent for collecting seedheads on their stems -- I put them upside down into the bag and leave them in a dry room, and can get them to release some of the seeds that way, which is a relief from trying to clean Alliaceae and Themidaceae seed capsules. Jane McGary From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 12:50:54 +0100 @ Steven Hart: This is Lilium OT 'Zanlophator' Triumphator not the original Lilium regale @ Jude: Most lilies grow stem bulbs, but it depends on species and varieties how much. If you plant lilies shallow in a pot they produce large but few bulbs, if you plant them deep in a pot they produce a lot and small. I have had L. nepalense, it produced a few stem bulbs at the top of the mother bulb and at the part where the stem emerged from the soil. BUT!!! If your lily has Sclerotium or Macrophomina phaseoli it will not produce ANY stem bulbs, or just really a few. If the lily has Pythium it depends when the stem dies out, if it dies off soon it will not produce any bulbs. If the lily is infected with viruses it makes a lot os small bulbs. Janos Hungary, Z5a From contact@bulbargence.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:28:10 +0100 Hello Mike; This could be Moraea (Homeria) elegans (green spotted form) see our web site;http://www.bulbargence.com/m_catalogue/article.php?id_categorie=18&id_article=940&val= the only problem that it has 6 green spots?? Greetings Lauw de Jager -----Original Message----- I'm wondering if maybe it's an obscure member of the Homeria group that isn't shown in my books (or on our wiki). From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 18 Feb 2012 16:30:56 -0800 Message-Id: <000d01ccee79$1788da40$469a8ec0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2012 12:08:32 -0800 >> This could be Moraea (Homeria) elegans Thanks, Lauw! Unfortunately, this plant is about 1/3 the size of Moraea elegans. Also, the anthers in M. elegans are a lot longer than the styles, whereas in my plant they are the same length. I'm wondering if maybe my plants are a hybrid of M. elsiae and something else... By the way, your catalog is fantastic. Mike San Jose, CA From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:46:19 -0800 Message-Id: <4F405889.9000608@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What's blooming 19th February 2012 Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 15:03:53 +1300 Mostly Rain lilies after the couple of days of heavy rain. This time of the year usually tends towards a drought. Not so far. https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/Blooming19thFebruary2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCNeSv8v7ob7VeA Zephyranthes hidalgo hidalgo "John Fellers" smallii primulina sunset strain crosses of Zephyranthes Habranthus robustus robustus "Russell Manning" tubispathus var texensis Cyrtanthus elata Scadoxus katherinae still flowering. And various others. More are flowering but I ran out of patience...... It is hot outside. Too hot to be outside. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:46:19 -0800 Message-Id: <8AC1B518-B637-4D87-84AF-E130EA62D2A9@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:45:45 +1000 I remembered the name as soon as I saw it, thank u so much ! I'll change it first chance I can : ) I have had plenty of stem bulbs on other liliums, but this was the first true cutting grown plant I have had, it was a fluke because the little bit I planted was all that was left after the goats stripped the lily patch, it didn't produce a stem bulb, it produced roots at the cutting base & shot from the top node like any hard or soft wood cutting, I found it fascinating & would never have believed it could work : ) Steven Esk Queensland Australia Zone 5 On 18/02/2012, at 9:50 PM, "J. Agoston" wrote: > @ Steven Hart: This is Lilium OT 'Zanlophator' Triumphator From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:46:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 17:55:13 +0100 Was it before flowering or after flowering? From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:46:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Lilium cutting experiment Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 09:27:51 +1000 Hello : ) The original bulbs all got pulled out by the goats & they ate all the tops & bulbs off, only leaving the small hardened stem sections from the center, they were young plants & had never flowered before, the cutting was from the middle of the stem & was about 6cm long, i used a little rooting gel & never really expected it to grow, so i just stuck it in a moist edge of the garden & left it alone.. It took about 15 months to grow & flower.. I have grown babies from other liliums from "stem bulbs" before which are common after flowering, but the cutting grown plant flowered long before any of my stem bulbs.. Steven Esk Queensland Australia Zone 5 On Mon, Feb 20, 2012 at 2:55 AM, J. Agoston wrote: Was it before flowering or after flowering? From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:10:51 -0800 Message-Id: <1329698616.89563.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: An antidote to winter? Cross posted to AlpineL and SRGC Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2012 16:43:36 -0800 (PST) There is a chance we'll have some snow here in the greater Washington, D.C. area tonight or tomorrow. This will be one of the few tastes of winter we've had this year. Our winter seems to be vacationing in  Europe this year. Here's something to help brighten things up a bit for those of you still in the clutches of the cold. This is a very brief video I put together last April while trying out some new electronic toys. Even now, after hearing it many times, it still cheers me up - I hope it does you, too. Take a look here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-UJLOAaxZ8  From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:10:51 -0800 Message-Id: <4F419911.4020702@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: An antidote to winter? Cross posted to AlpineL and SRGC Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 13:51:29 +1300 Very nice Jim. On 20/02/2012 1:43 p.m., Jim McKenney wrote: > Take a look here: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-UJLOAaxZ8 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:10:51 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: An antidote to winter? Cross posted to AlpineL and SRGC Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 03:33:28 -0800 What a beautiful thing to do for everyone Jim, Its 36*c & sweltering high humidity here, you got a snow ball for me : ) On Sun, Feb 19, 2012 at 4:43 PM, Jim McKinney wrote: > Here's something to help brighten things up a bit for those of you still > in the clutches of the cold. > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-UJLOAaxZ8 > _______________________________________________ > From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Mon, 20 Feb 2012 17:10:51 -0800 Message-Id: <1329771892.44578.YahooMailClassic@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: An antidote to winter? Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 13:04:52 -0800 (PST) Jim McKenney:  Your songbird recording cheered me up; as did the Asarum maximum flower!!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-UJLOAaxZ8? ------------------------------ * Thanks fromDan From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:18:32 -0800 Message-Id: <4F42F81C.7040700@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: hybrid Zephyranthes primulina Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 14:49:16 +1300 One of my first Zephyranthes was the primulina one. I may have crossed them as I was not too conscientious at the beginning, but I have no record of it. Yet ones which I have planted out in the garden in good faith thinking they were Zephyranthes primulina pure and simple, may have got up to some shenanigans as I now am getting quite a few white ones. Is this common with this rainlily? https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/Blooming19thFebruary2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCNeSv8v7ob7VeA#5711398516854784930 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:18:32 -0800 Message-Id: <4F42F96D.1010602@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes and Habranthus Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 14:54:53 +1300 As I have grown almost all of mine from seed, since 2008, I am pleased to now be able to plant some out in the garden. Am trying to develop masses of the various ones. This is a small beginning of them. In the photo are Z. grandiflora in front, then Z. flavissima, dichromantha, jonesii, Habranthus robustus "Russell Manning", Z. primulina, smallii. https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/Blooming19thFebruary2012?authkey=Gv1sRgCNeSv8v7ob7VeA#5711398951269057106 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:18:32 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Oxalis 'Zinfandel' Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 23:49:43 -0600 Dear Friends, Someone posted a pic on face book. It is an oxalis with variegated foliage-the leaflets are sectorially variegated in green and purple. The flowers are either yellow or pinky-purple. Does anyone know if this fits oxalis "Zinfandel,"? IS it photoshopped. I can send a copy of the pic to anyone interested. Thanks and best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From africanbulbs@haznet.co.za Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:18:32 -0800 Message-Id: <75AD95348DAB42CF89AD3C92E6351BE3@mcmasterdae8d5> From: "Rhoda and Cameron McMaster" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 09:24:40 +0200 Mike It seems to match Moraea schlechteri, from Namaqualand. Rhoda From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 21 Feb 2012 18:18:32 -0800 Message-Id: <003001ccf0c2$924ccc50$b6e664f0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 09:59:34 -0800 Rhoda wrote: >> It seems to match Moraea schlechteri, from Namaqualand. Thanks, Rhoda! I've now gotten the same ID from three experts, so I think we've achieved a consensus. I really appreciate everyone's help! (By the way, the plant in question has celebrated by putting out several more flowers. It's a cute little thing.) Mike San Jose, CA From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Computer virus warning ! Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:02:48 -0800 I just wanted to warn everyone, i have just been notified that a group claiming to be Fedex is sending emails, saying that you have a package to be received... DO NOT OPEN if you receive this email, it will instantly download a virus into your computer... Telephone scams are also at it again, calling & claiming to be from Microsoft security division, they will already have some of your details, & they will already have your computer entry code & claim this is how you will know they are legitimate, asking you to start your computer so they can help you remove the problem remotely.... BE WARNED THIS IS A DATA THEFT SCAM & they may also try to charge you a fee to download a program to remove the " FALSE" problem that they claim has been reported to their security alert system... -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From meneice@att.net Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: <5B4BBB75E44F4BF8895B9E499B1BDFA2@DF5XS5C1> From: "Shirley Meneice" Subject: Computer virus warning ! Date: Tue, 21 Feb 2012 22:12:22 -0800 Thank you Steven. I had one earlier today about a free Fedex delivery of a laptop that, luckily, I did not open as I knew I wasn't getting one free or other wise. Shirley Meneice, California, USA -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of steven hart Sent: Tuesday, February 21, 2012 10:03 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Computer virus warning ! I just wanted to warn everyone, i have just been notified that a group claiming to be Fedex is sending emails, saying that you have a package to be received... DO NOT OPEN if you receive this email, it will instantly download a virus into your computer... Telephone scams are also at it again, calling & claiming to be from Microsoft security division, they will already have some of your details, & they will already have your computer entry code & claim this is how you will know they are legitimate, asking you to start your computer so they can help you remove the problem remotely.... BE WARNED THIS IS A DATA THEFT SCAM & they may also try to charge you a fee to download a program to remove the " FALSE" problem that they claim has been reported to their security alert system... -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From ixia@dcsi.net.au Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: <520CBBE4654B40409968263966085BCF@DAWN> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Computer virus warning ! Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 17:36:50 +1000 Hi Steven, these scams have been around for a few years now. The best advise is not to open any attachment you are not sure about, even if it's from a friend. I'm sure most of our readers would know this by now. I know, I get these scams sent to me all the time, even some claiming they are my service provider! The best protection is to install a good firewall, (not just the windows one), a good virus scanner and make sure you keep them updated at least weekly, even more if you can. Contact your own ISP to see what protection they can offer you too. As for the phone scam, if you get one - just hang up! regards, Bill Richardson Ixiaking West Gippsland Victoria, Australia Summer 16c - 40c at present www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia profile: http://www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia/author1.html IBS articles: http://www.bulbsociety.org/About_Bulbs/index.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "steven hart" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 4:02 PM Subject: [pbs] Computer virus warning ! From contact@bulbargence.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 10:34:01 +0100 Hello Mike, Can you give me the address of the picture again please. Sorry I lost it. Regards Lauw de Jager -----Original Message----- It seems to match Moraea schlechteri, from Namaqualand From bulborum@gmail.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: A mystery Moraea Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 10:45:58 +0100 http://mikesextremegardening.blogspot.com/2012/02/mystery-moraea.html Roland 2012/2/22 contact > Hello Mike, > Can you give me the address of the picture again please. Sorry I lost it. > Regards > > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris unguicularis Hardiness test Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:28:32 -0600 > We have just had 2 nights where the temps went down to 6 F >(-14 C) and yesterday barely made it up to freezing. .... > Today the plant looks essentially unchanged, but the flowers >and buds are totally frozen, collapsed and lost. So clearly the >flowers cannot take this extreme, but the plant looks ok. Dear Friends, wrote the above (and more) on 2/12/12. Today 2/22/12 exactly 10 days later, the first of a second round of buds has opened completely. So not only is 5 degrees cold enough to kill open and nearly open buds, but a healthy plant can recover and re-flower in as short as 10 days. I must remind readers that this plant is outside and in the ground, year round in a micro-climate, south facing aspect near a stone stairway. More buds are visible and I expect to see more flowers soon. Todays temp is going toward mid-60s F. So if you are wishful and in Zone 5/6, give it a try. Best Jim W. ps a patch of nearby Iris magnifica had one entire shoot freeze almost to the soil line while others in light pine straw mulch are untouched. I am hoping the one with the frozen shoot has an intact bulb and can produce some new shoots eventually. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Oxalis 'Zinfandel' - NOT Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:59:37 -0600 Dear Friends, I was asking about: It is an oxalis with variegated foliage-the leaflets are sectorially variegated in green and purple. The flowers are either yellow or pinky-purple. Turns out it is a new cv called 'Plum Crazy'. It is sold wholesale by : http://www.sunshineenterprisesinc.com/Featured_plants.html I doubt they'll distribute flats to my area, but if anyone on the west coast sees these in a garden center and is willing to buy and ship me one, Let me know for repayment. Looks very cute. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jmsjon664@aol.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEBFBC91DABCEC-D90-4F52B@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com> From: "James L. Jones" Subject: What's blooming Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 16:03:32 -0500 (EST) Narcissus fernandesii and Lachenalia aloides ssp. pearsonii brightening up the greenhouse http://www.flickr.com/photos/72507839@N02/6921437439/ Jim Jones Lexington, MA From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1329949738.11325.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: What's blooming Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 14:28:58 -0800 (PST) The temperature tomorrow might be over 70 degrees F. Today it's over 60 degrees F. Some snowdrops, after the longest mild weather snowdrop season I have ever experienced, are finally shriveling. I'm hoping this long mild season will translate into abundant seed set. Winter aconites, early crocuses (including Crocus reticulatus)  and reticulate irises are all blooming freely now. And yes, that iris purchased very inexpensively  as Vinogradov's iris is true to name: the first flower is opening today. The yellow is very pale, the sort of yellow seen in some butter. It seems to move at a much slower pace than the other reticulate irises here.  In one of the cold frames the clump of Iris lazica has twelve flowers open. They form a mass of blue about a foot across, a really beautiful sight at this time of year. I'm inclined to think that if it repeats this performance yearly, I'll come to value it as much as I do I. unguicularis.  Cyclamen coum, also in a cold frame, is only now coming into bloom. I'm sure it had flower buds back in December, but the first flowers have opened only this week. Plants of Fritillaria thunbergii and F. persica are well out of the ground. I can count flower buds on some of the scapes of F. thunbergii. Whatever it is which has been browsing crocus foliage near this frit has so-far not touch the frit. Some early tulips show flower buds deep down in the emerging leaves. The buds of Asphodelus acaulis form a bright pink coronet at ground level.  Early daffodils such as cyclamineus hybrids are blooming. There were reports of' Rijnveld's Early Sensation' blooming in the greater Washington, D.C. area back in December. Lawn weeds such as veronica, cardamine and dandelions are blooming.  And here's a snowdrop story. Last week I spotted a snowdrop in the front lawn whose green markings, when viewed from a certain angle, reminded me of a man's face, a man with a big 1890s mustache. I decided to call it Mr. Mustache. I went out a few hours ago to photograph Mr Mustache: he's gone.  Somebody snatched him. I hope there are enough leaves left to keep the bulb strong so Mr. Mustache can make another appearance next year. A bit before I discovered that Mr. Mustache was gone I nearly fell over or twisted my ankle after stepping into a hidden, leaf filled hole in a place where I have never dug one. Someone has evidently lifted a plant.  The three Cyclamen persicum plants mentioned in earlier posts are doing very well. As I approached the front door earlier today the area was sweet with their fragrance. And I noticed something about that fragrance today which I had never noticed: it's sweet to be sure, but it also has a noticeable caraway seed quality. It must be wonderful to wander the countryside in areas here these grow wild.  So far no peepers or wood frogs, but if the mild temperatures hold out through a rainy period, they are sure to start up.  Should I start to sow seeds of hardy annuals? It's hard to know what to do in a year like this.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org From sujithart@gmail.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sujit Hart Subject: What's blooming Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:18:21 -0600 I am new with this group. When you mention cold frame, what exactly are you refering to? It seems all of you have one in your back yard. On Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 4:28 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > > The temperature tomorrow might be over 70 degrees F. Today it's over 60 > degrees F. Some snowdrops, after the longest mild weather snowdrop season I > have ever experienced, are finally shriveling. I'm hoping this long mild > season will translate into abundant seed set. Winter aconites, early > crocuses (including Crocus reticulatus) and reticulate irises are all > blooming freely now. And yes, that iris purchased very inexpensively as > Vinogradov's iris is true to name: the first flower is opening today. The > yellow is very pale, the sort of yellow seen in some butter. It seems to > move at a much slower pace than the other reticulate irises here. In one > of the cold frames the clump of Iris lazica has twelve flowers open. They > form a mass of blue about a foot across, a really beautiful sight at this > time of year. I'm inclined to think that if it repeats this performance > yearly, I'll come to value it as much as I do I. unguicularis. Cyclamen > coum, also in a > cold frame, is only now coming into bloom. I'm sure it had flower buds > back in December, but the first flowers have opened only this week. > > Plants of Fritillaria thunbergii and F. persica are well out of the > ground. I can count flower buds on some of the scapes of F. thunbergii. > Whatever it is which has been browsing crocus foliage near this frit has > so-far not touch the frit. Some early tulips show flower buds deep down in > the emerging leaves. > > The buds of Asphodelus acaulis form a bright pink coronet at ground level. > > Early daffodils such as cyclamineus hybrids are blooming. There were > reports of' Rijnveld's Early Sensation' blooming in the greater Washington, > D.C. area back in December. > > Lawn weeds such as veronica, cardamine and dandelions are blooming. > > And here's a snowdrop story. Last week I spotted a snowdrop in the front > lawn whose green markings, when viewed from a certain angle, reminded me of > a man's face, a man with a big 1890s mustache. I decided to call it Mr. > Mustache. I went out a few hours ago to photograph Mr Mustache: he's gone. > Somebody snatched him. I hope there are enough leaves left to keep the > bulb strong so Mr. Mustache can make another appearance next year. A bit > before I discovered that Mr. Mustache was gone I nearly fell over or > twisted my ankle after stepping into a hidden, leaf filled hole in a place > where I have never dug one. Someone has evidently lifted a plant. > > The three Cyclamen persicum plants mentioned in earlier posts are doing > very well. As I approached the front door earlier today the area was sweet > with their fragrance. And I noticed something about that fragrance today > which I had never noticed: it's sweet to be sure, but it also has a > noticeable caraway seed quality. It must be wonderful to wander the > countryside in areas here these grow wild. > > So far no peepers or wood frogs, but if the mild temperatures hold out > through a rainy period, they are sure to start up. > > Should I start to sow seeds of hardy annuals? It's hard to know what to do > in a year like this. > > Jim McKenney > > jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA > zone 7 > My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com > > BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ > Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS > Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org > Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Subject: What's blooming Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 00:29:11 +0000 Hi sujithart@gmail.com wrote: > I am new with this group. When you mention cold frame, what exactly are you > refering to? It seems all of you have one in your back yard. Welcome Sujit. You might like to look at this posting from Jim McKenney on cold frame construction: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2011-January/l7lmf880bfe5jnusvufvt7mf63.html links to pictures etc. David Pilling From russell@odysseybulbs.com Wed, 22 Feb 2012 18:31:09 -0800 Message-Id: <20120223010604.3A8D0E8C47@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Russell Stafford Subject: What's blooming Date: Wed, 22 Feb 2012 20:05:56 -0500 Crocus korolkowii and Galanthus 'James Backhouse' are up and blooming here in central Massachusetts. Tommies should be in flower within a few days. Russell Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:00 -0800 Message-Id: <43FFC9A0-3A81-4FC0-81F2-56AF77A554DF@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: snowdrop stealing? Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 09:36:56 -0800 Jim McKenney wrote: A bit before I discovered that Mr. Mustache was gone I nearly fell over or twisted my ankle after stepping into a hidden, leaf filled hole in a place where I have never dug one. Someone has evidently lifted a plant.? Is this snowdrop mania gone too far, into blatant snowdrop stealing? Kathleen Kathleen Sayce PNW Coast, WHZ 8, dryish cool summers & mild wet winters From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:00 -0800 Message-Id: <1330019384.72415.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: snowdrop stealing? Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 09:49:44 -0800 (PST) Kathleen wrote: "Is this snowdrop mania gone too far, into blatant snowdrop stealing?" I went back to the scene of the "crime" today, and now I have a better idea of what happened. There is no connection between the missing snowdrop and the hole.   The hole is right over the lid which covers the water meter;  now I'm sure it was dug by the meter reader. My guess is that some passing child picked Mr Mustache; I'm not going to begrudge a child picking a few flowers in the excitement of the season. I'm just hoping that Mr. Mustache reappears nest year. Even if an adult had snitched the snowdrop, I'm inclined to accept it as a sign that tastes in gardening in the neighborhood are improving.  Jim McKenney From idavide@sbcglobal.net Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:01 -0800 Message-Id: <1330025057.45514.YahooMailRC@web81004.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: snowdrop stealing? Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 11:24:17 -0800 (PST) Jim McKenney wrote --   I'm not going to begrudge a child picking a few flowers in the excitement of the season. I'm just hoping that Mr. Mustache reappears nest year. Even if an adult had snitched the snowdrop, I'm inclined to accept it as a sign that tastes in gardening in the neighborhood are improving.     I'm not always so kind-minded as you: two years ago, a young deer ate my one most beautiful off-white Iris.  I was upset, but figured, at least it had contributed to the animal's life.  Then he spat it out; the taste did not agree with him.   Some time later, adding insult to injury, some body broke off the leaf fan.  I hope the rhizome survived; it did not bloom last year.  I hope it does this year. David E. From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:01 -0800 Message-Id: <1330028047.9180.YahooMailClassic@web160702.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: What's Blooming Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 12:14:07 -0800 (PST) I've got snowdrops!Also Hellebores! DanSeattle 7b From maxwithers@gmail.com Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:01 -0800 Message-Id: From: Max Withers Subject: What's blooming Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 12:32:16 -0800 Yesterday my first Tecophilaea cyanocrocus opened. I laughed out loud when I saw the image in my camera viewfinder: the color really is un-digitizable. Still, I had to try: http://www.flickr.com/photos/badthings/6775681336/ Also: Bulbinella latifolia ssp. doleritica. Still going: Lachenalia spp., Tropaeolum tricolor. For Bay Area galanthophiles: I saw my first west coast snowdrop last week in an east-facing yard in North Oakland. I did a fairly dramatic double-take, having assumed it was Allium triquetum. No idea what species/taxon. Unless someone planted a single snowdrop in their front yard (anything is possible here!), it had the maudlin look of a dwindling clump. A neighboring Leucojum colony seemed much healthier. Best, Max Withers Oakland CA From totototo@telus.net Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:01 -0800 Message-Id: <4F46753B.15430.BC58@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: What's blooming Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:19:55 -0800 On 22 Feb 2012, at 18:18, Sujit Hart wrote: > I am new with this group. When you mention cold frame, what exactly are you > refering to? It seems all of you have one in your back yard. Essentially a topless, bottomless wooden box covered with glass or transparent or translucent plastic. You wouldn't think so, but even such a simple affair can give a surprising amount of protection from winter cold, thanks to the earth itself acting as a source of heat - not high temperature heat, but heat nonetheless. In addition, a coldframe offers protection from rain, important in winter- rainfall climates like the Pacific Northwest. Covered with a screen in warmer weather, a coldframe can also keep flying pests at bay, notably narciussus flies. Another benefit is that in summer a coldframe keeps the sun off the sides of pots in it and prevents the soil in the pots from overheating. This is why many nurseries corral their potted plants in areas surrouned with low walls of masonry or wood. You can make coldframes of any convenient material, but my experience is that once you have a little experience with them, it's a good idea to draw up a fixed design instead of cobbling them together from whatever is handy. This mostly affects the cover: should it be old windows, or something made to measure. A bulb frame is a little different, usually referring to a masonry raised bed containing pots plunged in sand, but invariably covered with barn cloches or something similar that gives the plants some head room when they flower in early spring (typically). -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 23 Feb 2012 17:56:01 -0800 Message-Id: <4F46E9A7.6050902@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 14:36:39 +1300 I was sent this link which may be of interest to others. http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: snowdrop stealing? Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 15:18:51 +1000 On 24 February 2012 03:49, Jim McKinney wrote: My guess is that some passing child picked Mr Mustache; I'm not going to begrudge a child picking a few flowers in the excitement of the season. I'm just hoping that Mr. Mustache reappears nest year. Even if an adult had snitched the snowdrop, I'm inclined to accept it as a sign that tastes in gardening in the neighborhood are improving. Jim McKinney What a great comment, i can feel Buddha smiling over my shoulder saying, mmmm Ah - Yes he has fought Evil with Kindness : ) Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From rahulgrant@yahoo.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1330061651.51509.yint-ygo-j2me@web120102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rahul Grant Subject: lilies do flower in the caribbean Date: Thu, 23 Feb 2012 21:34:11 -0800 (PST) Hi all.after prolong trying is a good result I flowered a lilium from seed lilium phill. From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 16:04:53 +1000 I saw these on eBay & thought they look great for those people who cant build their own glass house, they are built of replaceable corflu material so they insulate quite well i believe, not the same as the good old home made cold frame but they look really good value for money, have roof ventilation trolley size door way & aluminium frame. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6MM-POLYCARBONATE-Garden-ALUMINIUM-Greenhouse-Shade-GREEN-Hot-HOUSE-Shed-4-3mt-G-/180823976039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a19f2e867 -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <8f2213$2a3h1s@outbound.icp-osb-irony-out7.iinet.net.au> From: "Paul T." Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 19:04:06 +1100 At 05:04 PM 24/02/2012, you wrote: >I saw these on eBay & thought they look great for those people who cant >build their own glass house, they are built of replaceable corflu material >so they insulate quite well i believe, not the same as the good old home >made cold frame but they look really good value for money, have roof >ventilation trolley size door way & aluminium frame. > >http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6MM-POLYCARBONATE-Garden-ALUMINIUM-Greenhouse-Shade-GREEN-Hot-HOUSE-Shed-4-3mt-G-/180823976039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2a19f2e867 Steven et al, And have you noticed that there is an automatic bid placed by the vendor after every single bid, adding $5 to the price just bid? click on the "Show Automatic Bids" to the top right of the listing..... it's an eye opener. I'm guessing that this is legal ebay-wise, but looks dodgy as heck to me. No way you can place a bid without being outbid (this was mentioned by someone else recently, not sure whether on this list or not... might have been another one). The greenhouse looks great, but I wonder what it is actually supposed to be worth? I'd think about it, but with that automatic bidding system I'm just not interested in doing so. Cheers. Paul T. Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 Min winter temp -8 or -9°C. Max summer temp 40°C. Thankfully, maybe once or twice a year only. Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Galanthus, Irises, Liliums, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about anything else that doesn't move!! From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 18:09:06 +1000 On 24 February 2012 11:36, Ina Crossley wrote: I was sent this link which may be of interest to others. http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 I was interested Ina ! Absolutely beautiful... These are the sort of links that make our PBS site more interesting for everyone & help create greater interest for prospective new members & for those of us who have a true passion for all living things, bulbs, plants, birds & bees, what would we ever do with out them : ) Great work ! Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From bulborum@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 09:11:10 +0100 I agree wit steven Fantastic to see Roland 2012/2/24 steven hart > On 24 February 2012 11:36, Ina Crossley wrote: > I was sent this link which may be of interest to others. > http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 > I was interested Ina ! Absolutely beautiful... These are the sort > of links that make our PBS site more interesting for everyone > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From ixia@dcsi.net.au Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <5CA4D1E41D9540EC96F492587F0D7411@DAWN> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 18:14:36 +1000 Paul, I agree with you there. It sounds like a scam. You can probably buy them from a factory outlet a lot cheaper. regards, Bill. And have you noticed that there is an automatic bid placed by the vendor after every single bid, adding $5 to the price just bid? click on the "Show Automatic Bids" to the top right of the listing..... it's an eye opener. I'm guessing that this is legal ebay-wise, but looks dodgy as heck to me. No way you can place a bid without being outbid (this was mentioned by someone else recently, not sure whether on this list or not... might have been another one). The greenhouse looks great, but I wonder what it is actually supposed to be worth? I'd think about it, but with that automatic bidding system I'm just not interested in doing so. From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <4F47481A.2050606@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 21:19:38 +1300 It is something which we have here on Trademe. It is useful if it is something one really wants. There is a limit to the automatic bidding. If someone else also really wants it, they wait till the end of the auction and THEN do their bidding. It works. Ina On 24/02/2012 9:04 p.m., Paul T. wrote: > with that automatic bidding system > I'm just not interested in doing so. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 20:07:51 +1000 On 24 February 2012 18:04, Paul T. wrote: Steven have you noticed that there is an automatic bid placed by the vendor after every single bid, adding $5 to the price just bid? click on the "Show Automatic Bids" to the top right of the listing..... it's an eye opener. WOW Paul, that's an eye opener alright ! No i didn't see that... To be honest i just grabbed any old link out of hundreds of them, i didn't even look at the bidding thing, i was just showing them to Sujit who asked what a cold frame was, & who ever else might like to see them, they are pretty cool i have looked at them before, & would like one, but i need to make my own out of glass because i'm in a very high bush fire spark area, so it would melt ha ha..... I'm fascinated by the automatic bid thing, i would have never known they can do that, what a scam.... Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 20:38:03 +1000 On 24 February 2012 18:14, Bill Richardson wrote: Paul, I agree with you there. It sounds like a scam. You can probably buy them from a factory outlet a lot cheaper. regards, Bill. I just had another look & it took me a while to understand, but i see what you mean now, i buy lots of stuff on ebay but i only ever bid as its ending, but this is a real eye opener, at least with normal listings you can see who is bidding, but i see that with one its a private listing & identities are hidden so they could easily be bidding against them self... Its definitely something i will be looking out for in the future, mind u, i usually buy bulbs & smaller things so they are never private listings, but i will keep my eye pealed from now on : ) Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From neumannmaesgen@gmx.de Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <20120224104048.276930@gmx.net> From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=22Jutta_M=E4sgen=22?= Subject: Iris unguicularis hardiness Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 11:40:48 +0100 Hi, We just had 3 weeks of really cold weather with day temperatures not above -8 degree C and night Temperatures up to - 17 degree C without snow cover. My Iris unguiularis ssp cretensis did not show any sign of damage now 1 week after warmer weathter did arrive. Even Helleborus species did freeze down to the ground loosing all leaves. This all is in Germany near Bonn. I thinkI. Unguicularis is totaly hardy specially in the ssp cretensis (which naturaly occure up to 1500m in the Greek Mainland. Michael -- J. Mäsgen M. Neumann Bendenweg 24 53347 Alfter Germany Empfehlen Sie GMX DSL Ihren Freunden und Bekannten und wir belohnen Sie mit bis zu 50,- Euro! https://freundschaftswerbung.gmx.de _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <4F476E02.9010705@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 00:01:22 +1300 Not so. The auction does no allow the seller to bid. On 24/02/2012 11:38 p.m., steven hart wrote: > so they could easily be bidding against them self... -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From bulborum@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:12:21 +0100 Simple trick you open a second account with a secondary email address and you bid from your secondary email address Roland 2012/2/24 Ina Crossley : > Not so.  The auction does no allow the seller to bid. > > On 24/02/2012 11:38 p.m., steven hart wrote: >> so they could easily be bidding against them self... -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 21:19:57 +1000 On 24 February 2012 21:12, Bulborum Botanicum wrote: > Simple trick > you open a second account > with a secondary email address > and you bid from your secondary email address > > Roland > Yep, its a terrible thing to do but this is super common, that's why i never push bids up. I just buy late Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: lilies do flower in the caribbean Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:26:14 +0000 Hi, In message <1330061651.51509.yint-ygo-j2me@web120102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, Rahul Grant writes >Hi all.after prolong trying is a good result I flowered a lilium from seed lilium phill. I'm pleased to hear that - this is a follow-up to a discussion here in September 2011: "Growing Lilies in Tropical Climates?" http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2011-September/8bcqo42skilc79bckbaes3uah6.html -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: COld frames, was What's blooming Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 10:31:11 -0800 Perhaps I should not mention my own work here, but in the book "Rock garden design and construction," which I edited for Timber Press/NARGS, there is a chapter on bulb and alpine frames, with good line drawings by Suky McDonough (our correspondent Mark's wife), and photos of the extensive bulb frames where I used to grow my collection. In the photo book "Bulbs" by Martyn Rix and Roger Phillips, there is a photo in the introduction of a bulb frame under construction; it is apparently designed to grow the bulbs in the fill soil, not in pots. To the descriptions already posted, I would add that it is strongly advisable to include some kind of barrier at the bottom of the frame. I use industrial-strength woven groundcloth, which for many years has deterred moles from digging in from below -- and where moles pioneer a tunnel, mice and voles are sure to follow. I used this same product to line the raised beds where my bulbs are now growing, as well as the path between the beds, which is paved with crushed rock. The beds are under a polycarb roof in a commercial steel-frame greenhouse with metal mesh walls. Although most cold frames are of the "shed" design, with hinges on one side, I think it's far better to have an "A-frame" design that opens on both sides for access and ventilation. However, building an A-frame takes more carpentry skills than I have (i.e., more than none), so I paid someone else to build mine. In the UK gardeners can buy "Access" frames that are made like miniature greenhouses with opening panels on the sides, but I've heard anecdotally that these don't stand up well to heavy snow loads or strong winds. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From toadlily@olywa.net Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: <4F47D878.2060704@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 10:35:36 -0800 Just for reference, little personal experience! However, the one I've briefly seen assembled looked adequate. Currently on sale for $669.99 (USD). http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-12-ft-greenhouse-with-4-vents-93358.html Dave From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Iris unguicularis hardiness Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 10:36:43 -0800 A correspondent in Germany wrote: >Hi, We just had 3 weeks of really cold weather with day temperatures >not above -8 degree C and night Temperatures up to - 17 degree C >without snow cover. My Iris unguiularis ssp cretensis did not show >any sign of damage now 1 week after warmer weathter did arrive. Even >Helleborus species did freeze down to the ground loosing all leaves. >This all is in Germany near Bonn. I thinkI. Unguicularis is totaly >hardy specially in the ssp cretensis (which naturaly occure up to >1500m in the Greek Mainland. I agree that I. cretensis, also called I. unguicularis subsp. cretensis, is more cold-hardy than the North African I. unguicularis. I grew I. cretensis from Archibalds' seeds and it survived winter lows of 16 F at my former garden. In the new garden, which is warmer, it is also doing well. In the new garden I can grow I. unguicularis itself in the open, too, given very good drainage. On the minus side, I. cretensis does not have the strong sweet fragrance of I. unguicularis, and the flowers are smaller. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From sujithart@gmail.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sujit Hart Subject: COld frames, was What's blooming Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 14:32:53 -0600 Thank you for all the links and educational descriptions of cold frame. Now that I've known more about it. It seems not a necessary thing in Houston since we only get a few days of freezing weather per year if at all. However, when and if I start to have a big collection it may become necessary. Sujit Hart Houston, Texas On Fri, Feb 24, 2012 at 12:31 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Perhaps I should not mention my own work here, but in the book "Rock > garden design and construction," which I edited for Timber > Press/NARGS, there is a chapter on bulb and alpine frames, From lakedees@aol.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:03 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC14F15F35EBA-1684-4E49@Webmail-m104.sysops.aol.com> From: Lakedees Subject: Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 16:04:52 -0500 (EST) With the Harbor freight greenhouse you need to strengthen several parts of it and you can go on line and see what other have done. I use one for my cool weather plants that can't take frost on their leaves and it has taken winds in excess of 50 mph. But as I said I modified braces and walls to strenghten them and keep a shade cloth on top at all times for strength. George Liberty, NC zone 7 -----Original Message----- From: Laura & Dave To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Fri, Feb 24, 2012 1:42 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Sujit's Cold Frame Queation (polycarbonate glass houses) Just for reference, little personal experience! However, the one I've briefly een assembled looked adequate. Currently on sale for $669.99 (USD). http://www.harborfreight.com/10-ft-x-12-ft-greenhouse-with-4-vents-93358.html Dave ______________________________________________ bs mailing list bs@lists.ibiblio.org ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From lizwat@earthlink.net Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:03 -0800 Message-Id: <4F480ED5.4010908@earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 14:27:33 -0800 Fabulous photography, many thanks. Liz On 2/23/2012 5:36 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > I was sent this link which may be of interest to others. > > http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 > From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:32:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:18:27 -0800 The list title signaled a reminder to get out the camelhaired paintbrush for some crocus pollinating. Selfing of desired species, yes, but today I pollinated C. niveus x C. reticulatus, C. tommasianus roseus x C. niveus, Crocus baytopiorum x C. chrysanthus 'Blue Pearl' etc etc. Just wondering if other members are cross pollinating, and what results they may have had. Purely for the fun of it, the curiosity, and certainly not for commercial gain, bulb pollinating , I would think, would be a most interesting topic, and ,,,,, what do we have to lose? Rick From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 17:52:58 -0800 Rick wrote, today I pollinated C. niveus x C. reticulatus, >C. tommasianus roseus x C. niveus, Crocus baytopiorum x C. >chrysanthus 'Blue Pearl' etc etc. >Just wondering if other members are cross pollinating, and what >results they may have had. You could not have cross-pollinated anything today with Crocus niveus, because it is fall-blooming. You must have another big white crocus misidentified (C. malyi?). Also, I don't know that C. baytopiorum would cross with 'Blue Pearl' (which is not C. chrysanthus, but either a selection of C. biflorus or a hybrid of that with C. chrysanthus) as they are in different sections and have different chromosome numbers. And if you have enough C. baytopiorum to work with, you should just self it, because it is precious. Before embarking on a crocus hybridizing project, one should try to obtain the out-of-print (and ridiculously expensive, if you ever find it) "The Crocus" by Brian Mathew, which will help one verify the identity of one's plants in the first place, and understand their relationships. It is quite startling how many different chromosome numbers can be found in this genus. Brian Mathew told me he didn't think crocuses hybridized much, but other experts have told me they feel that hybrids are somewhat likely in a large collection. I think I have had volunteer hybrids in Section Crocus, with C. cartwrightianus as the seed parent. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Iris unguicularis hardiness Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 22:43:16 -0600 >A correspondent in Germany wrote: >>Hi, We just had 3 weeks of really cold weather with day temperatures >>not above -8 degree C and night Temperatures up to - 17 degree C >>without snow cover. My Iris unguiularis ssp cretensis did not show > >any sign of damage >I agree that I. cretensis, also called I. unguicularis subsp. cretensis, is more cold-hardy than the North African I. unguicularis. Dear Jane and Jutta, My unguiculares is blooming again. We've had a mild winter and buds were just opening. Then we went to 5 degrees F and the flowers froze, but 10 days later it is blooming again. Iris cretensis (from Jane) looks unfazed under the same weather as does I lazica, also related. Neither of these two have bloomed yet. Last year we went to -12 F and stayed below freezing for weeks. I unguiculares and lazica were well mulched, but both bloomed. I did not have I cretensis in the ground then. Obviously they are quite hardy given a number of specific growing conditions. I think like many plants that might be 'tricky' to grow in some climates, there is a matter of finding the right drainage, soil conditions, mulch, exposure, etc. I have lost I unguiculares and I lazica in other sites over the years. For those of you not totally familiar with I unguiculares, it has a surprisingly large flower and blooms at or before the reticulatas here in Kansas City. I am very happy to grow this form that I got from Wildwood Gardens in OR http://www.wildwoodgardens.net/ Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Pollinators in slow motion Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 21:10:21 -0800 AHHH, Yes you are right about C. niveus,. I keep pollen frozen in vials for this very reason. On 2/24/12, Jane McGary wrote: > Rick wrote, > today I pollinated C. niveus x C. reticulatus, >>C. tommasianus roseus x C. niveus, Crocus baytopiorum x C. >>chrysanthus 'Blue Pearl' etc etc. >>Just wondering if other members are cross pollinating, and what >>results they may have had. > > You could not have cross-pollinated anything today with Crocus > niveus, because it is fall-blooming. You must have another big white > crocus misidentified (C. malyi?). > > Also, I don't know that C. baytopiorum would cross with 'Blue Pearl' > (which is not C. chrysanthus, but either a selection of C. biflorus > or a hybrid of that with C. chrysanthus) as they are in different > sections and have different chromosome numbers. And if you have > enough C. baytopiorum to work with, you should just self it, because > it is precious. > > Before embarking on a crocus hybridizing project, one should try to > obtain the out-of-print (and ridiculously expensive, if you ever find > it) "The Crocus" by Brian Mathew, which will help one verify the > identity of one's plants in the first place, and understand their > relationships. It is quite startling how many different chromosome > numbers can be found in this genus. Brian Mathew told me he didn't > think crocuses hybridized much, but other experts have told me they > feel that hybrids are somewhat likely in a large collection. I think > I have had volunteer hybrids in Section Crocus, with C. > cartwrightianus as the seed parent. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 10:14:59 -0600 Dear Friends, We US gardeners hear of UK garden galas involving hundreds of people pouring over acres of Snow Drops as the first hint of spring breaks. This Galanthomania has resulted in record breaking sales of single bulbs of special cvs (A single bulb of G. woronowii 'Elizabeth Harrison' sold at auction for a record £725.10 or US$1,145.06 !!). Public gardens in the UK open for tours, sales and auctions of plants. I personally did not think there was a market in the US for single Galanthus cv bulbs for $40 or 50. I made an informal survey of a half dozen friends who I knew were at least vaguely interested in the genus and aware of UK fervor. I was very surprised at the interest and heard of some US nurseries selling bulbs for the $50 to $100 each range and selling out very fast. The degree of incipient Galanthomania surprised me. I started to get inquiries if I knew of a source for various lists of cvs available for sale, or was I planning on importing bulbs from the UK and could they order a few more? I grow maybe a half dozen or 10 named cvs a couple of which I recently priced on US and UK web sites and found they sell for much more than I would ever pay. So I am still somewhat awed at the seeming interest in Snow Drop Mania. What do PBS members (Especially those in the US) think of this whole thing? Do any of you buy $20, $50 Galanthus bulbs? Do you think you might be a Galanthophile ? Is the whole thing totally a fad; overblown and doomed to obscurity in the US? What's the most you have ever paid for a single Galanthus bulb? Thanks for your indulgence and feel very easy deleting the whole post if you think it is totally silly. Best Jim W. PS: Incidentally, the Galanthus here are pretty much in full bloom although the earliest are done and 1 or 2 are not yet up and open fully. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From randysgarden@gmail.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 08:33:10 -0800 Absolutely lovely and I have shared it out as well. Randy On Fri, Feb 24, 2012 at 2:27 PM, Liz Waterman wrote: > Fabulous photography, many thanks. > Liz > > On 2/23/2012 5:36 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > > I was sent this link which may be of interest to others. > > > > http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 > > > _______________________________________________ > From marygastil@yahoo.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1330191746.63266.YahooMailNeo@web161505.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Gastil Subject: is this Moraea ciliata? Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 09:42:26 -0800 (PST) Hi Moraea growers, A corm received as M. gigandra has bloomed and it clearly is not.  The corms I received looked quite different from each other so I expect the others may indeed be as labeled. Here is my mystery Moraea: http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/sets/72157629451743045/ The description of Moraea ciliata in 'The Moraeas of Southern Africa' by Goldblatt matches well but the watercolor picture differs in plant shape.  The plant shape of M. macronyx matches better but not the color. I included photos of the corm (the most edgey, least round of the three). Comparing the flower to the PBS wiki it does match one of the M. ciliata: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesThree#ciliata and does not match M. macronyx: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesSix#macronyx This is fun figuring out what I got.  It is pretty, whatever its name. Can someone confirm I have M. ciliata? I have removed the photo of the corms I posted, as at least one of them is not as labeled. Now I know better than to post pics of bulbs before seeing them bloom! - gastil From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: <5180756A-1ECC-44C9-933D-7492BF40FC9F@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 11:09:13 -0800 Yes, I'm a galanthophile, but a cheap one, so I'm not a galanthomaniac. Here in Victoria, pots of snowdrops in bloom sell for about $3 outside supermarkets. There are four bulbs per pot, unnamed seedlings of Galanthus elwesii, though in some years G woronowii and G nivalis have been sold as well. A friend and I go to the greenhouse that provides them and scrutinize the hundreds of pots. We select ones that are a bit different and usually buy a flat or two. (A flat of 18 pots costs $28). I hybridize them and hope for a spectacular seedling (none so far). A friend in England sends me seeds each year from his collection of named snowdrops. None has flowered yet. (It takes six years) I also buy seeds of various less well-known species. I have a few named snowdrops that I brought home from England. They were gifts from one of the National Collection Holders. Every year one of the public gardens here has a hellebore and snowdrop sale. One year I donated 14 pots of named snowdrops, one per pot, in bloom, for $4 each. Only 7 pots sold. So galanthomania hasn't happened here yet. On 25-Feb-12, at 8:14 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > Do any of you buy $20, $50 Galanthus bulbs? > > Do you think you might be a Galanthophile ? > > What's the most you have ever paid for a single Galanthus bulb? > From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: is this Moraea ciliata? Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 11:36:39 -0800 Your picture clearly shows the hairiness of the flower stem and the leaves, and that is what 'ciliata' means. Diane Whitehead On 25-Feb-12, at 9:42 AM, Gastil wrote: > > The description of Moraea ciliata in 'The Moraeas of Southern > Africa' by Goldblatt matches well but the watercolor picture differs > in plant shape. The plant shape of M. macronyx matches better but > not the color. > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 11:47:56 -0800 Jim Waddick asked about Galanthus fancy in the USA. There has been an interest in these plants in the Pacific Northwest (US and Canada) for some years, and I know of at least half a dozen burgeoning collections. I'm mostly interested in growing species bulbs, so I haven't acquired many cultivars except for hunting out those described as "vigorous increasers," which make such a pretty picture in the garden in January and February. To answer Jim's questionnaire: > What do PBS members (Especially those in >the US) think of this whole thing? I think this is a niche that appeals to "completists" who have a psychological urge to acquire as many of one category of objects as possible. I understand this, because I have an obsession with Fritillaria and, to a lesser extent, Crocus. (Crocus is coming back at me now that I have a rodent-proof place to grow them.) It is pretty easy to grow hundreds of snowdrop varieties in a garden of modest size, like one I visited a couple of weeks ago in Portland. It is not so easy to accommodate a collection of Arts & Crafts Movement jardinieres, I can tell you. > Do any of you buy $20, $50 Galanthus bulbs? I have bought $20 ones from Temple Nursery, but I'd never buy a $50 one, not even G. platyphyllus. > Do you think you might be a Galanthophile ? No. Just a geophytophile. > Is the whole thing totally a fad; >overblown and doomed to obscurity in the US? I think it will be a fading enthusiasn for some people who are drawn to it by the Anglophilia prevalent among American gardeners, but an obscure yet lasting hobby for a few. > What's the most you have ever paid for a single Galanthus bulb? About $25, for a true species. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jpsknisely@gmail.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jonathan Knisely Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 49 Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 15:35:53 -0500 > > Subject: [pbs] Galanthomania in the US > > Jim: Galanthus blossom at a very opportune time in the gardening season, and if they bloomed in June, I suspect there would still be galanthophiles, but there would probably not have developed a culture around going out to public gardens (and specially opened private gardens) to peep at them as spring breaks through the remains of winter. One issue about why we don't have galanthomania is the absence of large collections to go visit. Where there are collections of spring bulbs that can be seen, people go to see them. I remember being struck, in my 20's, by the carpets of Scilla siberica that could be seen in people's yards in the suburbs north of Chicago. People would just drive along slowly and gape. I'd never seen anything like it, and I've been tucking scilla in along roadside verges from that time onwards. In a few decades, there may be great expanses... I too was startled by the price paid for the truly beautiful clone of G. woronowii 'Elizabeth Harrison'. I look forward to someday being able to purchase a bulb of this variety and subsidizing the company that made it possible. Have I ever paid $20 for a galanthus bulb? No, but the opportunities are so limited, and when I've browsed the available species of the two specialist nurseries that I know of on this side of the pond that have established themselves as sources of galanthus (The Temple Nursery in Trumansburg, NY and Carolyn's Shade Garden http://carolynsshadegardens.com/2012-snowdrop-catalogue/), there's a dearth of options because they've already sold out most of what they have to offer. They could probably have charged another $5 or $10 per bulb, given the fact that so much of their stock has sold out! I would like to avoid paying the shipping and handling for just getting "some" named variety of Galanthus (that doesn't look distinctive and beautiful to me). For that kind of money, I'd really like to get the ones I want! Would there be a market for galanthus at these high prices? There is. Will we be able to get more varieties as enterprising individuals bring them over and propagate them? Yes. Are you going to make an order from Europe? Let me know! Jonathan Knisely New Haven, CT USDA 6a (now 7) where galanthus and a few tommies are up to keep the H. foetidus and H. niger company > From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: was Pollinators now Spring Crocuses and hybrids and Crocus books Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 21:06:12 +0000 There are an increasing number of Crocus hybrids around, and though I make no claim one is better than the other, Janis Ruksan's book "Crocuses" is in print and a more recent publication. On pages 200 and 201 Janis lists known hybrids though he states "hybrids are not common". C malyi is flowering here now, as well as C tommasinianus,seiberi, vernus, reticulatus, jessopiae, gargaricus subspecies, oliveri, korolkowii, civijicii and others. One never knows what improbable hybrid might take.... C tommasinianus does, I believe, hybridise with C vernus, C chrysanthus with various C biflorus, and C reticulatus with C angustifolius (C xleonidii) Peter (UK) > > On 2/24/12, Jane McGary wrote: > > Rick wrote, > >>Just wondering if other members are cross pollinating, and what > >>results they may have had. > > > > > Before embarking on a crocus hybridizing project, one should try to > > obtain the out-of-print (and ridiculously expensive, if you ever find > > it) "The Crocus" by Brian Mathew, which will help one verify the > > identity of one's plants in the first place, and understand their > > relationships. It is quite startling how many different chromosome > > numbers can be found in this genus. Brian Mathew told me he didn't > > think crocuses hybridized much, but other experts have told me they > > feel that hybrids are somewhat likely in a large collection..... > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 25 Feb 2012 16:43:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: is this Moraea ciliata? Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 23:34:44 +0000 Yes, it is ciliata. There are a number of color variants tho. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2012 21:48:03 -0800 Since Galanthus isn't really grown down here in southern California, stories about Galanthomania are interesting to read about, but always seemed a little farfetched until I witnessed what has happened in the world of Clivias (pricewise) in the last decade or so. I have seen the typical orange Clivia miniata growing with little to no care in yards and urban landscapes all over southern Calif., and in fact, as long as they receive summer watering, they will "naturalize" in almost any shady location. At some point in the mid-90s I heard that there were yellow flowered Clivias, but had never seen any except in photos. I finally found some for sale at a handful of obscure mail order nurseries but at exorbitant prices (US$ 700-900 per plant). One of the founding members of PBS, Cathy Craig, was also interested in getting her hands on one, but not at that price! One day she got in touch with me to tell me that a mutual friend, Harold Koopowitz, had found a source (a Mr. Nakamura) who was offering seeds of the yellow-flowered variety, in Japan. (He had produced a number of his yellow varieties starting with a clone of a yellow that Peter Smithers had discovered in England.) But the seeds were (what I thought at the time) expensive! They were $2 per seed for "common" yellow-flowered cultivars and $3 and even $4 per seed for some very rare crosses. I didn't know anything about any of this, but 2 or 3 dollars was a whole lot cheaper than 700 or 800 dollars. So I joined in the order for a number of crosses. When the first one finally bloomed a number of years later, I was so excited. But a couple of years later I saw a few yellow ones offered at a local high-end nursery for $100 per plant. Much cheaper (but still a lot more than $2). About this same time I was introduced to the small but growing world of Clivia enthusiasts worldwide, as well as an organization of enthusiasts, and got to go visit one of the first hybridizers with an amazing collection here in Calif. My eyes just about popped out at seeing other shades of colors such as peach/apricot ones, deep red ones, brownish-red ones, all kinds of variegated leaves, etc. Since then, many different colors and combinations of colors and variegations and sizes have appeared. And prices have skyrocketed. Jim asks if we Americans would pay $20 or $50 dollars for a Galanthus bulb. I wouldn't. But I have spent $40 for a yellow-flowered Clivia clone once, and a few years later I spent $40 for a peach-flowered clone when a new cultivar of this color appeared in the U.S. for the first time. (And I'm glad I did; that variety can easily cost $200 these days.) Now, I regularly see Clivia plants go for $200 or $300 or $400 dollars on eBay or at fundraiser auctions for Clivia organizations. And really desirable clones easily sell for even more, like $800. A few years ago, a true green-flowered clone sold for way more than that. And the seeds have gotten really expensive lately, too. And yet they sell. The most desirable clones and crosses from the best cultivars and breeders are regularly offered for $20 or $25 per seed! I've seen some special Chinese cultivar seeds offered for up to $50 per seed. And people buy them! To me this all seems crazy, especially since this amount of inflation has occurred in a little over 10 years. So I'm not surprised about the prices paid for desirable Galanthus clones. I just wouldn't pay it myself. Same goes for bulbs of rare or desirable Hippeastrum or Crinum species or cultivars. The only time I was tempted to pay more than $50 for a plant of any kind was for a mature flowering-sized Worsleya bulb. But those are much harder to grow than Clivia or Galanthus (or Hippeastrum or Crinum), but the flowers are as amazing or possibly more so than those of the latter--IMHO! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Feb 25, 2012, at 8:14 AM, James Waddick wrote: > This Galanthomania has resulted in record > breaking sales of single bulbs of special cvs (A > single bulb of G. woronowii 'Elizabeth Harrison' > sold at auction for a record £725.10 or > US$1,145.06 !!). > I personally did not think there was a > market in the US for single Galanthus cv bulbs > for $40 or 50. I made an informal survey of a > half dozen friends who I knew were at least > vaguely interested in the genus and aware of UK > fervor. I was very surprised at the interest > and heard of some US nurseries selling bulbs for > the $50 to $100 each range and selling out very > fast. > What do PBS members (Especially those in > the US) think of this whole thing? > > Do any of you buy $20, $50 Galanthus bulbs? From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 14:05:55 +0000 Hi, The snow drop season is winding down here (North West England), in the last month driving around the countryside I've seen hundreds of clumps of snow drops in hedgerows and grass verges by the side of the road. Presumably many are the result of people planting a few bulbs in random places. They remain unmolested by ebayers. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net post: David Pilling, P.O. Box 22, Thornton-Cleveleys, Blackpool. FY5 1LR. UK From jshields@indy.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120226091648.0359e830@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 09:19:30 -0500 Hi all, No galanthomania in this neighborhood, but the chipmunks and/or field mice do occasionally move a Galanthus bulb around. I suspect they dig them up expecting to eat them, take one taste, and drop them where they stand. By and large this probably does no harm, at least in my garden. Jim Shields in Westfield, Indiana At 02:05 PM 2/26/2012 +0000, you wrote: >Hi, > >The snow drop season is winding down here (North West England), in the >last month driving around the countryside I've seen hundreds of clumps >of snow drops in hedgerows and grass verges by the side of the road. > >Presumably many are the result of people planting a few bulbs in random >places. > >They remain unmolested by ebayers. > > >-- >David Pilling >email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From hornig@oswego.edu Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 09:46:48 -0500 I said it would never happen to me, but once I saw Hitch Lyman's collection, I couldn't help being a tiny bit smitten. Over time I've acquired a few fancy cultivars from Hitch, plus masses of old-fashioned singles and doubles from various sources. When we had to move last fall, though I brought a 15' truck of plants with me, I could find hardly any of my deeply dormant snowdrops. Yesterday a friend from Oswego visited me, and before he came, he swung by the still-unsold house and former nursery and dug me a flat of doubles, a flat of Eranthis, and two pots of very special named snowdrops that he managed to notice and extract. I am happy. :-) Now, if only the city would come by and remove the very large run-over skunk parked squarely in the middle of my road in front of my house, I would be even happier. Ah, spring. Ellen Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From antennaria@charter.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark McDonough Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:40:18 -0500 (EST) I must admit, I do not understand the obsessive fascination with Galanthus. As I typically do, let me preface this message: I find snowdrops utterly delightful little plants; perfectly charming harbingers of spring (and an autumn one or two), what's not to like about them? But when we get right down to it, these little "snow dumplings" are white white white, with a dab of green. How many variations of white with green markings can there be? Apparently thousands. Should they all be named? Maybe, maybe not; but if it brings considerable enjoyment to Galanthophiles, then so be it. When I observe photos of myriad named snowdrops, many at exorbitant high price, to my eye there's a niveous sameness to so many of them, I can hardly tell them apart, insufficient distinction to pry even a few dollars out of my wallet if they were available. Now, I certainly wouldn't mind having one of the so-called yellow galanthus (yellowish peduncles and yellowish markings on the white petals), but even so, wouldn't pay much for it, I don't suppose I'll ever have one. Now if only there were Galanthus with pink flowers, or any color other than white and green. If I were to spring $50 for a plant, would much rather buy one of the newer Cypripedium hybrids that come in a fascinating array of colors and rich markings. Long and short of it, I don't think Galathomania will catch on in the US; there will of course be dedicated followers of the genus here, but no where close to the fervent popularity it enjoys in the UK and elsewhere in Europe. Mark McDonough antennaria@charter.net Massachusetts, USDA Zone 5 From kjblack@pacbell.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1330275198.77294.YahooMailRC@web181008.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: BX payments Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 08:53:18 -0800 (PST) Hi Arnold, I know I was a bit late on two December BX 300 + 301 payments ... I sent a check for $23 in to you on Feb 8th.  I have not seen it cashed yet.  I suspect you may be waiting to batch deposit with other checks (I do this as Treasurer for SDCSS) ... but any chance you can confirm you received? Thank you, Ken Blackford San Diego   ________________________________ From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <000f01ccf4a7$39e3fbe0$adabf3a0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: is this Moraea ciliata? Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 08:53:53 -0800 Mary wrote: >>A corm received as M. gigandra has bloomed and it clearly is not I agree with everyone else that this appears to be Moraea ciliata. Bob Werra calls this the "crinkle-leaf" form of the plant. He thinks it's a really nice-looking form, and I agree. I've also seen a crinkle form with white flowers, a straight-leaved form with pale blue flowers very similar to these, and a larger straight-leaved form with darker blue flowers. I'm with you, Mary, this mystery plant stuff is fun. Mike San Jose, CA From kjblack@pacbell.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1330275439.19665.YahooMailRC@web181009.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: My apologies ... that note was meant to go only to Arnold, please ignore Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 08:57:19 -0800 (PST) My apologies ... my previous note was meant to go only to Arnold, please ignore Ken From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 17:41:13 +0000 I remember claims of a pinkish snowdrop a few years ago but I don't know if i still exists. Peter (UK) On Sun, Feb 26, 2012 at 4:40 PM, Mark McDonough wrote: > Now if only there were Galanthus with pink flowers, or > any color other than white and green. > From bulborum@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:59:10 +0100 They where dyed same as the blue one on ebay last year There exist a pale pink Convallaria majalis 'Rosea' Roland 2012/2/26 Peter Taggart > I remember claims of a pinkish snowdrop a few years ago but I don't know if > i still exists. > Peter (UK) > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com From ds429@comcast.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1099133357.1927527.1330283029471.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Galanthomania in the US - related Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 19:03:49 +0000 (UTC) I love galanthus - not to the extreme of buying one for $50 - but enough to have a few different ones which please me each spring. Most are in peak bloom here in S outheastern Pennsylvania right now. I am wondering if they or any of the genus  could survive in a raised bed. As I age, the possibility of getting down close enough to the ground to smell their fragrance and see the variations in the green markings. etc. will become less of an option. Has anyone grown them in raised beds? Here in zone 6/ 7,  temps rarely even get below 0 F these days. Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bulborum Botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 12:59:10 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Galanthomania in the US They where dyed same as the blue one on ebay last year There exist a pale pink Convallaria majalis 'Rosea' Roland 2012/2/26 Peter Taggart > I remember claims of a pinkish snowdrop a few years ago but I don't know if > i still exists. > Peter (UK) > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <20120226191830.B049BE8E1D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:18:23 -0800 I expect that Galanthus would be difficult for me to grow which may be one reason why I too don't understand this fascination. But seeing them in mass is quite nice and I enjoyed some of the stands I saw in private gardens in Portland, Oregon when I went to a NARGS winter study meeting. We all have our favorites and grow things that others might find uninteresting which is probably a good thing. I am reminded that one day when out hiking and coming across a Fritillaria affinis, one of my hiking buddies who was interested in native plants and I were excitedly looking at it. We knew there were some that had been seen in this area, but neither of us had ever seen them and we had looked for years. Another hiker who did not share our interest in flowers turned to someone else and said in a very surprised voice: "Is it that brown (word brown spoken with disgust) flower they are admiring? I would probably never even buy a Galanthus, but certainly not at an exaggerated price. Mary Sue At 08:40 AM 2/26/2012, you wrote: >I must admit, I do not understand the obsessive fascination with Galanthus. Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1330285143.97958.YahooMailNeo@web84506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Galanthomania in the US - related Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:39:03 -0800 (PST) Dell asked: "Has anyone grown them [Galanthus] in raised beds? Here in zone 6/ 7,  temps rarely even get below 0 F these days. " Dell's post prompts two responses from me.  For one thing, we're thinking along the same lines. I'll be 70 next year, and although I'm still pretty perky and everything is still working fine, the time will come when getting down close to the ground might not be so easy. So as I redesign my garden, I'm including raised beds, at least one of which I intend to be wheel chair accessible just in case I live that long.  With regard to snowdrops in raised beds, I've noticed that some do not in fact seem to thrive there, at least when planted near the edge of a raised bed with a dry wall. And last year I learned a very painful lesson about this: a clump of one of the Greatorex double snowdrops which has been in the garden (moved over the years here and there) for perhaps thirty years was just about annihilated last year when a sudden overnight drop in temperature while the plant was in full bloom (dozens of blooming scapes) caused its site to freeze solid. A week later a slight, inquisitive tug pulled entire stems from the ground. This year there are one or two very frail, weak, nondescript more or less amaryllid-looking leaves which give me hope to think that the entire clump did not die. But even if they are the snowdrop in question, it will be years before they bloom again.  The next snowdrops I plant in this raised bed will be planted on columns of ill draining clay and have a sheet of insulating material between them and the dry wall.  The largest, fattest flowers of the double form of the common snowdrop that I've ever seen were growing in the mud beside some rutted tire tracks in another garden.  A section cut out and brought home with me and planted in a slightly raised bed survived for only three years.  Who ever heard of a snowdrop dying? Well, now I have.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org       ----- Original Message ----- From: "ds429@comcast.net" To: Pacific Bulb Society Cc: Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Galanthomania in the US - related I love galanthus - not to the extreme of buying one for $50 - but enough to have a few different ones which please me each spring. Most are in peak bloom here in S outheastern Pennsylvania right now. I am wondering if they or any of the genus  could survive in a raised bed. As I age, the possibility of getting down close enough to the ground to smell their fragrance and see the variations in the green markings. etc. will become less of an option. Has anyone grown them in raised beds? Here in zone 6/ 7,  temps rarely even get below 0 F these days. Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bulborum Botanicum" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 12:59:10 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Galanthomania in the US They where dyed same as the blue one on ebay last year There exist a pale pink Convallaria majalis 'Rosea' Roland 2012/2/26 Peter Taggart > I remember claims of a pinkish snowdrop a few years ago but I don't know if > i still exists. > Peter (UK) > > -- R de Boer La Maugardiere 1 F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email:   bulborum@gmail.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From randysgarden@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:41:56 -0800 On Sun, Feb 26, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > coming across a Fritillaria affinis, ...We knew there were some that had > been seen in this area When I was up in Mendocino last weekend I went looking for it where I had seen it once before, but without luck. It was in a copse of pine on the headlands above the mouth of Big River. I also found it just south of Jughandle or Russian Gulch, right at the side of the highway where a side road comes in. Fingers crossed for the promised rain tonight. It won't be much but will take every drop we can get. Randy Monterey Bay Region From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1A4A6E66-DBFE-461B-9FFA-07DF7AB1215B@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: what's sprouting in my cold frame Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 11:58:40 -0800 A nice strong storm blew through in the past couple of days, so between rain showers today I swept off the cold frame (fir and spruce needles, twigs and a few branches) and opened it up to see how plants and seeds are doing. I had some very pleasant surprises: Veltheimia bracteata gets water spray from the open section, so those plants are growing strongly. Some old pots of Pacific Coast Iris seed (2005-2010 seeds) have decided to germinate. A few are stubbornly refusing to sprout, but the ones that did decide to go for it have 3-5 seedlings apiece. In a separate germination treatment, I put PCI seeds in a food mill and scraped them up, 10 to 20 turns per batch. With either presoaking or direct planting after this grinding treatment, they are germinating within 30 days. Next I'm going to test this on very old PCI seed; the first grinding trial was with 2009 seed. More cold frame notes: Toxicoscordon fremontii has some seedlings up, after a year. Nerine laticoma has one seedling. Lilium pardalinum and Lilium maritimum each have a few seedlings. This group can be very slow. I'd almost given up on them, then read Darm Crook's comments on the PBS website again, and put them in the cold frame last fall. Apparently it's the right temperature for these cool hypogeal lilies. I also have older pots of Eremerus himalaicus and Iris magnifica in the cold frame, along with all my Calochortus collection, some Frits, Scilla peruviana, Amaryllis belladonna, Rhodophiala, Romulea, Zephyranthes, and others, and they all seem quite happy. The Scilla in particular is doing quite well. The bulb had dwindled outside from year to year, but in the cold frame is slowly increasing in size. It might flower this year. PBS member comments helped me very much, first in taking that step to build a cold frame, then in figuring out which plants are happier there. I appreciate all the help! Cheers, Kathleen Kathleen Sayce PNW Coast, WHZ 8, dryish cool summers & mild wet winters From vc2m@mac.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <3DEA9EC0-C9C2-45CF-B196-0FCD7FE772BA@mac.com> From: Vijay Chandhok Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 15:06:01 -0500 I have snow drops in my yard last few days in Pittsburgh, but what is making a great show are all the winter aconite covering a large area of the front yard. Vijay On Feb 26, 2012, at 11:40 AM, Mark McDonough wrote: > I must admit, I do not understand the obsessive fascination with > Galanthus. As I typically do, let me preface this message: I find > snowdrops utterly delightful little plants; perfectly charming > harbingers of spring (and an autumn one or two), what's not to like > about them? But when we get right down to it, these little "snow > dumplings" are white white white, with a dab of green. How many > variations of white with green markings can there be? Apparently > thousands. Should they all be named? Maybe, maybe not; but if it brings > considerable enjoyment to Galanthophiles, then so be it. When I observe > photos of myriad named snowdrops, many at exorbitant high price, to my > eye there's a niveous sameness to so many of them, I can hardly tell > them apart, insufficient distinction to pry even a few dollars out of my > wallet if they were available. > > Now, I certainly wouldn't mind having one of the so-called yellow > galanthus (yellowish peduncles and yellowish markings on the white > petals), but even so, wouldn't pay much for it, I don't suppose I'll > ever have one. Now if only there were Galanthus with pink flowers, or > any color other than white and green. If I were to spring $50 for a > plant, would much rather buy one of the newer Cypripedium hybrids that > come in a fascinating array of colors and rich markings. > > Long and short of it, I don't think Galathomania will catch on in the > US; there will of course be dedicated followers of the genus here, but > no where close to the fervent popularity it enjoys in the UK and > elsewhere in Europe. > > Mark McDonough > antennaria@charter.net > Massachusetts, USDA Zone 5 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <17005159.1597519.1330287379422.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: BX payments Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 14:16:19 -0600 (CST) Ken: I'll answer you question on the forum as I'm sure others may have the same concern. Dell sends me a spread sheet with names and BX amounts every three to four BX's. I just received the BX sheet for 302-303. Also I wait until there is a number of deposits to make before sending in a deposit. Also there are a number of members who have not renewed for 2012. Now's the time to do that and not miss out on forthcoming BX offerings. I did receive your check. Arnold I suspect you may be waiting to batch deposit with other checks (I do this as Treasurer for SDCSS) ... but any chance you can confirm you received? Thank you, Ken ________________________________ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: what's sprouting in my cold frame Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 12:56:51 -0800 Kathleen wrote >Veltheimia bracteata gets water spray from the open section, so >those plants are growing strongly. Kathleen, how cold do you think it gets in that frame? I have a huge pot of this Veltheimia that I grew for many years in the solarium of my previous house (still for sale, solarium and all), but my new house has nowhere much to keep plants completely frost-free in winter. Kept in the living room it doesn't flower. I've been wondering whether I should try some of the bulbs in the center of the bulb house, or just send them all to the BX. SPeaking of houses and gardens for sale, Ellen Hornig and I can at least go back and plunder our former gardens at leisure until the real estate market perks up -- a silver lining. I left a woodland planting with a lot of anemones there, hoping it would encourage potential buyers, but my live-in caretakers can't keep up with the weeding, so I'm just going to take all the plants I can and let them herbicide the ground under the trees and shrubs. There are still some remains of the old bulb frames there, too, one of them full of mixed colchicums. If I had the names on them, I'd send them to the BX, but they were lifted from the garden and put back in the former frame area when I ran out of room for them in the new place. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4AA0B7.4040102@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: BX payments Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 10:14:31 +1300 Oh dear, I don't think I have, but cannot remember for sure. Would you let me know if I have not please? Ina Crossley On 27/02/2012 9:16 a.m., arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > Also there are a number of members who have not renewed for 2012. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4AA151.2040008@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: BX payments Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 10:17:05 +1300 Sorry, I emailed Arnold through the PBX by mistake. Oh dear. Ina From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <19AFCE7F-2BCC-4038-B530-73F3C5363435@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: what's sprouting in my cold frame Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 13:48:59 -0800 Kathleen wrote > Veltheimia bracteata gets water spray from the open section, so > those plants are growing strongly. Jane wrote: Kathleen, how cold do you think it gets in that frame? I have a huge pot of this Veltheimia that I grew for many years in the solarium of my previous house (still for sale, solarium and all), but my new house has nowhere much to keep plants completely frost-free in winter. Kept in the living room it doesn't flower. I've been wondering whether I should try some of the bulbs in the center of the bulb house, or just send them all to the BX. Kathleen's reply: The one still-working wireless thermometer I have says it stays between 45 and 60 F most of the time. It has three sections; in winter I crack one open 4 inches unless temps drop below 37F outside, in which case I close all the sections. Given that the temperature cannot be even everywhere inside, I suspect some areas drop to 36-38 F if I am slow to close it up as freezing weather approaches. It does not frost, in so far as I can remember to keep it shut on cold nights. I noticed snow in the hills today down to 1700 ft, and it's been hailing, snowing and raining in showers today, but the cold frame was at 48 F overnight and is now in the high 50s. Once temps are above 45 F at night consistently, I open all the sections to 4 inches with blocks, and for the summer, put each lid up on 8 inch high spacers so that air can circulate easily. Calochortus love this; they are much happier in the cold frame than outside. So does Scilla peruviana and other bulbs can tolerate cold but like drier conditions than my climate provides. Photos are at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/n7ong-photos/sets/72157625750439608/ for those who might be interested. Which brings me to a suggestion: many of us have cold frames and other climate modifying structures. Might PBS have a section where these structures could be shown, a Growing Methods and Structures section? Greenhouses, Jane's lovely new house-sized cold frame, covered porches (a la Ina), traditional small cold frames, wire racks, etc? Cold frames are a slippery slope to cold greenhouses, and house-sized cold frames, I know. Mine is 4 x 12 ft and it's jammed full now with pots of seedlings and tender species, only some of which are leaving for new homes this spring. Only took two winters to fill. Cheers, Kathleen From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: mixed colchicums Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 13:50:44 -0800 From Jane: There are still some remains of the old bulb frames there, too, one of them full of mixed colchicums. If I had the names on them, I'd send them to the BX, but they were lifted from the garden and put back in the former frame area when I ran out of room for them in the new place. Jane, I for one would buy mixed colchicums from the BX as species unknown, if you would send them to Dell. Kathleen Kathleen Sayce PNW Coast, WHZ 8, dryish cool summers & mild wet winters From jmsjon664@aol.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC2E8ADA647FF-E28-B5FA@webmail-d055.sysops.aol.com> From: "James L. Jones" Subject: What's blooming - Lachenalia Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 16:56:50 -0500 (EST) Hi Elaine, Lachenalia aloides ssp pearsonii blooms for 3 or 4 weeks February to March. Other subspecies are likely to bloom at other times. Jim Jones From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4AB8B3.9010502@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Hybrid Zephyranthes Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 11:56:51 +1300 One of the latest crosses. This one has a white centre. It is all very interesting once there are results. https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/ZephyranthesHybrids?authkey=Gv1sRgCIaWnN-XypP4mwE#5713575664066122546 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <002101ccf4ee$a06ec6f0$e14c54d0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Another mystery Moraea Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 17:24:59 -0800 Some bulbs came to me labeled "Moraea tricolor," but a couple of them bloomed this weekend, and I am not sure of their identity. I think they're either unusual bicolored forms of the species, or hybrids. I'd appreciate some guidance from the experts. http://mikesextremegardening.blogspot.com/2012/02/moraea-mystery-2.html Thanks, Mike San Jose, CA From pelarg@aol.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC3080003BCC6-C98-1AD1@webmail-m168.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Another mystery Moraea Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 20:41:03 -0500 (EST) Hi Mike, Possibly they are M. papilonaceae. Quite a pretty flower on your plant. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY where the crocus (bicolors, tricolor, and tommies) are in full bloom. referring to: Some bulbs came to me labeled "Moraea tricolor," but a couple of thembloomed this weekend, and I am not sure of their identity. I think they'reeither unusual bicolored forms of the species, or hybrids. I'd appreciatesome guidance from the experts. From pelarg@aol.com Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC30B160588D4-C98-1C6D@webmail-m168.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Galanthomania in the US - related Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 21:03:09 -0500 (EST) I'm not quite sure I get the galanthomania thing, but I do love the common snowdrops I see both in gardens and as a naturalized plant along the Bronx River in a park near where I live. I notice that the snowdrops in the park grow in areas that do flood on occasion, I wonder if this helps them to disperse better. And while I don't get excited about minute differences among snowdrops (now if one was tecophilia blue, that would be something special in my book!) I know to each their own, as I certainly have my own interests in some plants that others might think of as a bit quirky. A factor in the snowdrops favor is their winter/early spring bloom, winter flowers are very special to gardeners in places where such things are few and far between, so I imagine that some folks in warmer locations who have abundant flowers all year might wonder why anyone pays attention to such a small white flower. Ernie DeMarie Tuckahoe NY From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:53:44 -0800 Message-Id: <1330310245.94488.YahooMailNeo@web84513.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:37:25 -0800 (PST) I went through my galanthomania phase about forty years ago. I eventually ended up importing plants (pre  CITES) in the green from Mr. Mars of Haselmere (an early incarnation of Avon Bulbs). I think I paid about $5 for a single bulb of 'Lady Elphinstone' (since lost)  -  back then a lot of money for me. I never experienced more than a light infection by the white disease: my snowdrop collection has never numbered more than two dozen bought varieties. But I chose well and got what I still think of as satisfying,  representative variation. Thanks primarily to CITES,  the US is experiencing extreme galanthopenia. At this stage of my life, I'm actually trying to ease myself into galanthopenia. I'll keep two sorts only in numbers: 'S. Arnott' and Galanthus nivalis.  Each of these will get a bed about 20' x 3' or so and there will probably be winter aconites with them. One of the beds will have an overplanting of Begonia grandis - this is a great plant for such a use because it emerges so late. At one time I contemplated a comparably big bed of Galanthus elwesii, but that one is so variable that mass plantings lack the uniformity I want in such a planting. The other snowdrops  I have now will be clumped here and there around the garden. Well, that's my plan: let's hope it soon moves beyond the dream stage.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org     From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1330311857.62410.YahooMailNeo@web84508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Which Galanthus is the true giant snowdrop? Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 19:04:17 -0800 (PST) I've known about The Giant Snowdrop Company for a long time, probably more than forty years. I do remember seeing their advertisements years later, probably after the company had closed down. I've always assumed that "the giant snowdrop" referred to was Galanthus elwesii. The other day a friend forwarded to me this link: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/howtogrow/9099034/Galanthophiles-unite-in-love-with-snowdrops.html  In this piece the writer explains why, at least in the context of The Giant Snowdrop Company, the giant snowdrop  is, in fact, Galanthus  'S. Arnott'.   And while there is nothing distinguished about my snowdrop collection, I was pleased to see three (and in a sense four) of the snowdrops I grow mentioned in this article. You can see two of them here in a blog post published a few days before the Telegraph article: http://www.mcwort.blogspot.com/2012/02/lady-beatrix-stanley-and-edward.html Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org    From jamesbwood2000@gmail.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Wood Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 53 Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:05:35 -0500 "One of the latest crosses. This one has a white centre. It is all very interesting once there are results." Ina, how much variation do you see between seeds in the same cross? James From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4B0B53.8070508@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 109, Issue 53 Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 17:49:23 +1300 Depends on what you use for your crosses. At first I went mad and crossed all sorts with Zephyranthes verecunda alba, but it has it's limitations. So it is a matter of trial and error. The first cross I put on the PBS email list was a cross between Z. hidalgo x Z. grandiflora. 3 of that cross had a lot of variation. That first one turned out really dark, the next one was a paler pink with white stripes, the third one was a sort of spotted pale pink. One I want to try when the flowers are at suitable times (so far I have not kept any pollen in the fridge) is Z. primulina with Z. grandiflora. Although Z. primulina is supposed to be apomictic, it will cross with others if hand pollinated I realise now. Just as Z. grandiflora which is supposed to be sterile, will set seed if hand pollinated with some of the other Zephyranthes. Ina On 27/02/2012 5:05 p.m., James Wood wrote: > "One of the latest crosses. This one has a white centre. It is all very > interesting once there are results." > > Ina, how much variation do you see between seeds in the same cross? > > James > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4B3E50.4070602@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Off topic re search engines Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 21:26:56 +1300 Is there anyone who has come across this search engine and knows if it is any good? Unlike Google, it does not collect any information about us. http://duckduckgo.com/about.html -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From bonsaigai37@aol.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC3674B550988-15BC-D2D0@webmail-m031.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 08:03:12 -0500 (EST) Oh those snowdrops... UK garden galas involving hundreds of people pouring over acres of Snow Drops as the first hint of spring breaks. I would go, perhaps another year... I personally did not think there was a market in the US for single Galanthus cv bulbs for $40 or 50. I'm afraid, I have purchased. It makes everything else seem more affordable, a $25/bulb lily hybrid suddenly seems like a good buy! I grow maybe a half dozen or 10 named cvs a couple of which I recently priced on US and UK web sites and found they sell for much more than I would ever pay. I think, I have about 2 dozen now. As Ellen did, I now live near Hitch. It was through snowdrops that we first met. I ended up here for a good job and property I could afford. Do you think you might be a Galanthophile ? Oh yes. Oh dear. What next? Is the whole thing totally a fad; overblown and doomed to obscurity in the US? Hitch says he sells out every year. The Temple Nursery, Trumansburg, NY What's the most you have ever paid for a single Galanthus bulb? $50. But I've also found LOVELY plants in the area, seeding colonies. I keep hundreds of nivalis around for their simple spring pleasure. It is one of the true harbingers of spring. Plant them close to your most used door! Michael Interlaken, NY Zone 6 (whatever...) From npublici@yahoo.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1330350255.73850.YahooMailClassic@web162206.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: Off topic re search engines Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 05:44:15 -0800 (PST) I use it frequently. It gets some things google does not show.Used  along with Opera browser,I don't  have so many problems and have a much better experience. Google has become the long street full of over advertized used car lots,where the one with the most money has the most advertizement and operates under several names. Del --- On Mon, 2/27/12, Ina Crossley wrote: From: Ina Crossley Subject: [pbs] Off topic re search engines To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Monday, February 27, 2012, 8:26 AM Is there anyone who has come across this search engine and knows if it is any good?  Unlike Google, it does not collect any information about us. http://duckduckgo.com/about.html -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From plantnut@cox.net Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <94940321-29F5-488E-A5FD-8DE19CB780F8@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Off topic re search engines Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 07:37:01 -0800 Here is a site that reviews Duck Duck Go: http://www.kikabink.com/reviews/duckduckgo-search-engine/ Joe, Oceanside, CA On Feb 27, 2012, at 12:26 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Is there anyone who has come across this search engine and knows if it > is any good? Unlike Google, it does not collect any information about us. > > http://duckduckgo.com/about.html > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 10:45:21 -0600 Dear Friends, I was recently reading about the 'Giant Snow Drop' a rather vague and mostly commercial term applied to a variety of sp and cv in the past. Most often this refers to G elwesii and was sold by the now defunct 'Giant SnowDrop Company' Most people look at snow drops as tiny plants under 6 inches with tiny flowers, It got me thinking, so armed with a ruler I went in search. My tallest flower stalk at full bloom tops out at 11 inches with a spread of exactly 2 in. Although most stalks are in the 10 in range, the flower size is typical. Following flowering the stalks can extend further as much as an inch or more. This is not a tiny dainty plant. This is on the plant distributed as 'Mighty Atom' - Not. Close, but no cigar. In the garden we simply call it M. A. N. and with dozens in flower it is very impressive. We do grow many more Galanthus that are half that size-even less, but MAN is a substantial addition to to the spring garden. So how big is yours? Any one grow bigger snow drops? Just how big can Snow Drops get. And for the record I am not comparing these to Leucojum aka Snow Flakes and Snow Drops. CAn anyone beat this size? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Snow Flakes are rising Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 10:49:13 -0600 Dear Friends, With continued unseasonably warm temps the first Leucojum vernum ssp carpaticum are up and blooming. These often emerge from the ground with the flower in the foremost. A ring of self sown seedlings are also blooming and foliage is also emerging. This is very early even for these early spring bloomers. Also emerging are L. 'Gertrude Wister' also flower first, yet not quite open. Is is spring ? Best Jim W. ps L. aestivum is also stirring, but won't bloom for a while as it always blooms well after L. vernum. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From artbysandra@yahoo.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1330361832.61500.YahooMailClassic@web160705.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Sandra de Nijs Subject: pollinators in slow motion Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 08:57:12 -0800 (PST) From Ina > I was sent this link which may be of > interest to others. > > http://www.youtube.com/v/xHkq1edcbk4 > Absolutely amazing, thank you so much for forwarding! Sandra de Nijs Orlando, FL, zone 9b, 25'C, amaryllis, oxalis blooming From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1330364112.36175.YahooMailNeo@web84506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 09:35:12 -0800 (PST) Jim Waddick, in discussing a large snowdrop he grows, asked "CAn anyone beat this size?" I did a blog post on this topic on January 27, 2012 which you can view here: http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2012/01/giant-snowdrop.html In the accompanying image you can see a number of big snowdrops lined up for comparison. The largest one is over 2 inches in diameter - it's six centimeters  (two and three eighths inches) in diameter, and it is not squashed down to maximize the diameter. If the blossom had been pressed flat, the diameter would have been over two and a half inches.  I've seen photographs which suggest that there are even bigger snowdrops out there, too.   Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org     From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Donald Jones Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 09:45:58 -0800 OK. Up for the challenge. I dug out an old yardstick so I can measure in inches. I didn't go all around the garden, just measured two different nameless elwesiis next to the front door. To where the ovary is, not to the top of the spathe: one 13.5 and one 14 inches. The flowers weren't open wide yet, so I measured the length of petals on one of them: 1.5 inches. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada On 27-Feb-12, at 8:45 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > My tallest flower stalk at full bloom tops out at 11 inches > with a spread of exactly 2 in. > > So how big is yours? Any one grow bigger snow drops? From jpsknisely@gmail.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jonathan Knisely Subject: Snow Flakes are rising Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 14:03:36 -0500 "With continued unseasonably warm temps the first Leucojum vernum ssp carpaticum are up and blooming. These often emerge from the ground with the flower in the foremost....Also emerging are L. 'Gertrude Wister' also flower first, yet not quite open." Hi Jim: This seems like the ideal moment to trot out this quote from Gertrude Wister: "The flowers of late winter and early spring occupy places in our hearts well out of proportion to their size." True dat. Jonathan Knisely New Haven, CT USDA 6a, now 7 (?!) From leo@possi.org Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <628ac9640e7142660b6c624b751f589e.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 16:29:04 -0800 (PST) Rather than Galanthus, I wish I could grow Convallaria here in Phoenix. Leo Martin From pslate22@yahoo.com Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:14:20 -0800 Message-Id: <1330389692.70644.YahooMailNeo@web111910.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Pamela Slate Subject: What's Blooming Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 16:41:32 -0800 (PST) Dear PBSers, Much is happening in the garden!    Now in flower: Narcissus 'Erlicheer' N. jonquilla N. 'Autumn Colors'   Androcymbium latifolium   Leucojum 'Gravetye Giant'   Freesia leichtlinii F. divaricata ssp. arenosa (or is it "var."?) F. falcata F. laxa ssp. azurea F. viridis A lovely blue red freesia hybrid   Merwilla plumbea   Lachenalia aloides var. quadricolor L. namaquensis L. reflexa   Gladiolus tubergenii 'Charm'   Oxalis purpurea 'Garnet' O. triangularis    Indoors:  Clivia miniata - pale yellow Belgian hybrid Ferraria densepunctulata F. crispa (as former ssp. nortieri) F. uncinata It's obviously a mild winter.  Many others are in bud.....Lachenalia, other Ferraria, Tulipa, then followed by Watsonia and Ixia. Pamela Slate P.O. Box 5316 Carefree AZ 85377 From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1330396912.31839.YahooMailRC@web181016.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: February showers and February flowers Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 18:41:52 -0800 (PST) Several things returning now in February 2012, and beginning to bloom in my San Diego backyard ... Cyrtanthus falcatus: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6790835890/in/photostream Chasmanthe duckittii: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6936954571/in/photostream/ Scadoxus puniceus: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6790835266/in/photostream/ Freesia laxa: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6790818716/in/photostream/ and Lachenalia unicolor: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/6790790880/in/photostream/ Due to some welcomed rain, the garage is doing double duty as a potting shed ... up-potting some of last fall's Brunsvigia litoralis and Amarygia (A.belladonna X B.litoralis) seedlings from their undersized 2" containers. Ken Blackford USDA zone 10  From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <20120228062544.051D3E8B3F@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: What's Blooming Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2012 22:26:04 -0800 Pam, I'm not familiar with two of these Freesias. Also John Manning told me when we were in South Africa that when the new work on this genus comes out F. leichtlinii is going to be included in Freesia alba. I've always found the two that I've grown difficult to tell apart so that made sense to me. I ones I are wondering about are the two you listed under Freesia leichtlinii. Do you mean Ferraria divaricata? There is a Lapeirousia divaricata (which in the past was an erroneous name used in seed exchanges for a white Freesia laxa as the true L. divaricata was a different plant), but with the ssp. I'm thinking you meant Ferraria even though you listed Ferraria species in another place in your email. What is F. falcata? There is a Freesia fucata, is that what you meant? Also a Hesperantha falcata, a Cyrtanthus falcata >Freesia leichtlinii >F. divaricata ssp. arenosa (or is it "var."?) >F. falcata It sounds like your garden must be quite wonderful at the moment. Mary Sue From dkramb@badbear.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: February showers and February flowers Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 09:05:06 -0500 *grumble* there was ice on my car this morning. :-/ I guess that's the difference between Zone 6 and Zone 10! I'm super jealous of all your lovely blooms, Ken! Dennis in Cincinnati From randysgarden@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: February showers and February flowers Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 07:54:28 -0800 We went from t-shirt and shorts on the beach weather last week to frost this morning along Monterey Bay, California, zone 9. The rain was insignificant and any effect disappeared with the cold wind that followed. Randy On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 6:05 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > *grumble* there was ice on my car this morning. :-/ > From erle@dsl.pipex.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <39C61D656A5843779A757433C4D0A664@STUDY> From: "Erle Randall" Subject: Habranthus query Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:16:50 -0000 I am very new to South American bulbs so I need help. I had seed from Jim Archibald in 2008 described as "Flores & Watson 11417...tentatively attributed to H. saltensis." 4 germinated and were potted on in July 2010. I did not notice any growth last year and decided to check the pot yesterday. I found 2 acorn sized bulbs with fresh roots but no sign of a shoot right at the bottom of the pot. I hastily repotted them, hoping that I have caused no damage. Three questions: How deep should they be planted? ; What is the right watering regime? ; How big is a flowering size bulb? I have been keeping them alongside my winter rainfall South African bulbs in my glasshouse (min temp 5°C) Thank you for any tips - I would hate to lose them. Erle Anglesey North Wales - grey, damp but mild. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Habranthus query Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:34:20 +0000 Wrong. This species belong to the summer growing cycle. Very dry winter dormancy. A deep pot, say 20 cm./8 in., alkaline well drained mix. Acorn size in two years is incredibly fast for an amaryllid. That would be about flowering size if it is saltensis. best From maxwithers@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4D1E74.4070006@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: Babiana pollination Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 10:35:32 -0800 There was an interesting article on bird-pollinated Babiana in the last Annals of Botany that (I think) is freely accessible: Caroli de Waal, Bruce Anderson and Spencer C. H. Barrett, "The natural history of pollination and mating in bird-pollinated Babiana (Iridaceae)," Ann Bot (2012) 109 (3): 667-679 http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/109/3/667.abstract From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: What's Blooming Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:53:03 +0000 Freesia fucata Ferraria divaricata ssp. arenosa From mwalnik@wodip.opole.pl Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <700E406716E54CA494A0B8C0817CE326@MarekKomputer> From: "Marek Walnik" Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:11:45 +0100 Hi, There is something between winter and spring in our zone 6(?) country. And on windowsills there are Hippeastrum hybrids going to flower. First on my windowsill (now on a table to better show) is H. ‘Ambiance’. I have repotted it some five weeks ago, but I underestimate the pot size – I didn’t realize, that the bulb would gain some an inch in circumference. Now the plant has 3 scapes of 52 cm (20,5”). Two of them are opening their flowers. http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/poza_spisem/ambience12.html Marek Walnik, Glucholazy, Poland _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From dhkerrmail@yahoo.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1330460475.17431.YahooMailClassic@web160701.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Daniel Kerr Subject: Snow Flakes are rising Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 12:21:15 -0800 (PST) Jonathan Kniselyfrom Gertrude Wister: "The flowers of late winter and early spring occupy places in our hearts well out of proportion to their size." Yeah, that's what I'm talking about! From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1330464409.47015.YahooMailNeo@web84520.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: OT: Harry Dewey's 23rd birthday Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 13:26:49 -0800 (PST) I'm cross posting this to several lists including the PBS, AlpineL, SRGC and NARGS groups. Feel free to pass it on. Tomorrow, February 29, is the 23rd birthday of leapling Alpine Elf Harry Dewey.  He and his partner Tom Comstock  are vacationing in Florida right now, and you can contact him by cell phone 301-654-7308  or snail mail:  5159 N Hwy A1A, Unit 511 Ft. Pierce, FL 34949 You can also try email, but I'm told that it is unreliable :   tcoms@aol.com. Let's show Harry we have not forgotten him and all he did for us over the years. Jim McKenney   From ds429@comcast.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <2007551593.2053635.1330466100526.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Plant lights Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:55:00 +0000 (UTC) I hear that T12 fluorescent tubes are obsolete and will soon be unavai lble because of government mandate. I have many T12 fixtures and have read that one can purchase a converter that enables T12 fixtures to handle  T 5. Does anyone have any experience with these conversion pieces? Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From annamwal@interia.pl Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 23:14:08 +0100 Hi, There is something between winter and spring in our zone 6(?) country. And on windowsills there are Hippeastrum hybrids going to flower. First on my windowsill (now on a table to better show) is H. ‘Ambiance’. I have repotted it some five weeks ago, but I underestimate the pot size – I didn’t realize, that the bulb would gain some an inch in circumference. Now the plant has 3 scapes of 52 cm (20,5”). Two of them are opening their flowers. http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/poza_spisem/ambience12.html Marek Walnik, Glucholazy, Poland _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4D5433.6080905@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 11:24:51 +1300 Gorgeous, Marek. How do you keep the plant upright? Ina On 29/02/2012 11:14 a.m., A. M. Walnik wrote: > Now the plant has 3 scapes of 52 cm (20,5”). Two of them are opening their flowers. > http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/poza_spisem/ambience12.html -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From annamwal@interia.pl Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <55060D3E758C423DAA4EA9CED407EE73@MarekKomputer> From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 23:29:49 +0100 Hi Ina, That's a problem. I have to turn the pot every mornig - scapes tends to bend to light! Marek W (PL) -----Oryginalna wiadomosc----- From: Ina Crossley Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 11:24 PM Gorgeous, Marek. How do you keep the plant upright? Ina From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 22:34:57 +0000 This is the same topic discussed a few days ago! From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:42:18 -0600 >OK. Up for the challenge..... one 13.5 and one 14 inches. >The flowers weren't open wide yet, so I measured the length of petals >on one of them: 1.5 inches. > >Diane Whitehead Dear Diane and others, You have met the challenge to deny those who claim Snow Drops are tiny and insignificant. This size exceeds most if not all Crocus and a good many tulips. Even a small clump can make an impact in the garden. Now Diane what variety reaches this size? An elwesii cv? Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From dkramb@badbear.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Iris unguicularis hardiness Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:02:15 -0500 I arrived home from work a few moments ago and noticed a clump of bright purple at the corner of the house.... sure enough it's 6 blooms on Iris cretensis. Daytime temps hit nearly 60 degrees today for the first time in months. Tomorrow is forecasted to be even warmer (but stormy). Dennis in Cincinnati (Ohio, USA, Z6) PS: My other clump of Iris cretensis is warmer, but shadier, and has no blooms. From santoury@aol.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC4846F0D6EB3-11B4-17BD@webmail-m148.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Plant lights Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:04:18 -0500 (EST) I, too, would love to know. All my fixtures, including 20 brand new ones, are T12 oriented. Maybe just stockpile the T12 bulbs ? From haweha@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 23:08:28 +0000 Thank you for showing "Ambiance" I feel rather grateful for the existence of this PAPILIO-Hybrid which is either TRI- or TETraploid; I occurred to create another hybrid from it that I am inclined to call "Burgundy Papilio". Enjoyhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/haweha/7164.jpg The history of this Hybrid is pictured in http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/amaryllishippeastrum/msg0208304728457.html?16 > Hi, > There is something between winter and spring in our zone 6(?) country. And on windowsills there are Hippeastrum hybrids going to flower. > First on my windowsill (now on a table to better show) is H. ‘Ambiance’. I have repotted it some five weeks ago, but I underestimate the pot size – I didn’t realize, that the bulb would gain some an inch in circumference. > Now the plant has 3 scapes of 52 cm (20,5”). Two of them are opening their flowers. > http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/poza_spisem/ambience12.html > > Marek Walnik, Glucholazy, Poland From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1330471824.80586.YahooMailNeo@web84508.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 15:30:24 -0800 (PST) Asphodelus acaulis is blooming now here in Maryland. How many of you remember Anna Griffiths' 1964/1965 book A Guide to Rock Garden Plants? For me it was the first or at least one of the first books I knew which had modern color photographs of a wide selection of rock garden plants. Many of the plants discussed  were bulbs; it was from this book or the more or less contemporary Collins Guide to Bulbs by Patrick Synge  that I learned about Iris winogradowii. Griffiths' book was where I learned about Asphodelus acaulis, a plant I never thought I would see alive much less grow.  Now fast forward about forty years. One of my gardening friends acquired a plant of Asphodelus acaulis from Jane McGary; it grew well in its new home, and it eventually appeared at the plant exchange of our local NARGS chapter. That's when I acquired my start.  From reading the above perhaps some of you are wondering why I'm posting this here instead of on the NARGS forum. The answer is simple: it's on the PBS wiki. Take a look: it's a real charmer, nothing like its taller relatives.  For the last two weeks or so the crown of the plant has had a coronet of pink buds; now they're beginning to open. The flowers to me look as if they were made of pink butter cream.  This is a favorite here, to me a really special plant. Jane mentions in the wiki account that the crowns sometimes die after flowering. My plant has only a single crown. I'll be devastated if it dies.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org     From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4D6603.9010009@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:40:51 +1300 I was actually thinking of the size of the pot. One accidental touch and the whole plant would topple over. Ina On 29/02/2012 11:29 a.m., A. M. Walnik wrote: > Hi Ina, > That's a problem. I have to turn the pot every mornig - scapes tends to bend > to light! > Marek W (PL) -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 15:44:19 -0800 Jim McKenney wrote > One of my gardening friends acquired a plant of Asphodelus acaulis > from Jane McGary; it grew well in its new home, and it eventually > appeared at the plant exchange of our local NARGS chapter. That's > when I acquired my start. ...Jane mentions in the wiki account that > the crowns sometimes die after flowering. My plant has only a > single crown. I'll be devastated if it dies. I think the secondary crowns aren't necessarily apparent above ground when the big central crown is flowering. I have two big plants in flower here now, and I expect I'll find two or three new crowns have formed to the sides of each when I lift them this summer to get them out of the mesh basket in which I transferred them from the old bulb frames to the new bulb house. The storage root system is similar to that of Dahlia. Other Asphodelus are similar (though bigger). The color is what is called, in regard to fabrics anyway, as "peach pink," though I've never understood that as peaches are much yellower (if they're not white peaches). A good-sized inflorescence can have as many as 20 individual blossoms, clustered close to the ground. I got this plant as a single crown from Monocot Nursery in the mid-1990s. Mine haven't ever set viable seed but I will try to hand-pollinate it this year. Possibly I won't succeed, as I have just the one clone. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <009c01ccf673$3b4855d0$b1d90170$@net> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:46:44 -0500 I can second Jim's comments. I got a plant from Jane about 4 or 5 years ago and grew it in the greenhouse in a 9" pot (eventually). Last summer, when it was dormant, I bare-rooted it and got 5 nice independent crowns, which went into 3 places in the garden, with varying degrees of protection. The most protected was in the less-hardy cactus bed, the least protected was the open garden sand bed. It hasn't been much of a winter, only going below 10F once, but the plants are doing great in all locations, with flowers already in the cactus bed and tiny buds apparent in the other 2 locations. Foliage is completely unmarked. It is beautiful. Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 315 571 9232 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 15:48:21 -0800 I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which includes the BX and our newsletter. Thanks! Jane McGary Membership Coordinator Pacific Bulb Society From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <13634531.1866472.1330473892115.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:04:51 -0600 (CST) My Asphodelus acaulis came from a BX and is just finishing flowering. It sits in a cold greenhouse. Flowers are fleeting but there are so many it was almost in flower for a month. Arnold New Jersey Jim McKenney wrote > One of my gardening friends acquired a plant of Asphodelus acaulis > From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:53:36 -0800 Like Arnold, I also got my plant from the BX. It has been blooming for months now. One day I decided to self pollinate it for fun and just last week I noticed something interesting. There were swollen pedicels that pushed what appears to be the pods down and into the ground below the mother plant. I don't know of any bulbs that does this but perhaps someone here does. Nhu On Tue, Feb 28, 2012 at 3:44 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > > I got this plant as a single crown from Monocot Nursery in the > mid-1990s. Mine haven't ever set viable seed but I will try to > hand-pollinate it this year. Possibly I won't succeed, as I have just > the one clone. > > From munrosj27@yahoo.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <1330476922.28846.YahooMailNeo@web36301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: stephen munro Subject: A question for PBS members/Lilium bolanderi growing Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:55:22 -0800 (PST) I joined towards the end of 2011. Is the membership valid a calender year from the date one joins of is renewal required Jan 1st?   Secondly, I was lucky enough to come across a group of Bolander's lily setting seed in September in Josephine County, OR. It seemed to me it was certain to be Bolander's as it was growing in full sun on a serpentine ridge.    I picked a single green seed pod and was worried that I may have picked it too early.  I let the pod sit in a coin envelope and sowed the seed in October with little expectation of a good result.  To my surprise it appears I've achieved close to 100% germination success.   Does anyone have any tips as to the raising of this species from seed?  How long until the seedling bulbs are potted individually? What are some dangers to be on the look out for? Seed to flower years?   Thanks in advance,   Stephen Munro Seattle, WA       ________________________________ From: Jane McGary To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 3:48 PM Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which includes the BX and our newsletter. Thanks! Jane McGary Membership Coordinator Pacific Bulb Society From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: <24F9CE9B-FDCD-42C2-863B-920DE1422D19@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:59:13 -0800 Yes, elwesii. Unnamed. I have many, as they seeded themselves for about 80 years in my grandparents' garden. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada On 28-Feb-12, at 2:42 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > You have met the challenge to deny those who claim Snow Drops > are tiny and insignificant. This size exceeds most if not all Crocus > and a good many tulips. > > Now Diane what variety reaches this size? An elwesii > cv? From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:10:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 01:02:36 +0000 Same in Ipheion tweedianum, ex Ipheion hirtellum, ex Ipheion sellowianum, ex Ipheion dialystemon, ex Ipheion vittatum The same purpose, a protected ovary in Sternbergia Haylockia Biarum Saniella Apodolirion Gethyllis Empodium Crocus Galaxia Colchicum and relatives From leo@possi.org Tue, 28 Feb 2012 18:00:08 -0800 Message-Id: <11992543a0541e4f927b024d5da7b6cc.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Indicator plants Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 17:31:33 -0800 (PST) Hello All, I grow annuals in many of my larger containers to let me know when it is time to water. (The annuals begin to wilt.) I'm not the only one; Gene Joseph and Jane Evans also do this at Living Stones Nursery/Plants for the Southwest in Tucson. For my larger winter bulb containers I like winter flowers like the California and Mexican poppies, Eschscholzia californica and mexicana; California bluebells, Phacelia campanularia or minor; various Linaria species and hybrids (baby snapdragons) and the fragrant mignonette, Reseda odorata. I also like cool-weather vegetables such as radish; Chinese cabbage; mizuna, a Japanese mustard; and a delicious red-leaved native, Chenopodium berlandieri, which native Americans cultivated to eat. The fragrance of mignonette is light and sweet but not overpowering. It mixes well with our bulb fragrances. What plants do those of you in other parts of the world use for this purpose? Any interest in some of this type of seed going to the bulb exchange? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From eez55@earthlink.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <380-22012232921753328@earthlink.net> From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Plant lights Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:17:53 -0500 I don't know about converters, but I do know that T-8 and T-12 fluorescent tubes require different ballasts. 15+ years ago I purchased some cheap, used T-12 fixtures with old ballasts. The ballasts were quite noisy (and probably not long for the world), so I replaced them with T-8 ballasts. This wasn't difficult. They work just fine, and the T-8 tubes fit the holders for T-12 tubes. T-8 tubes appear to be more energy efficient that T-12 tubes. High intensity T-5 tubes are wonderful for growing plants that need a lot of light (I've flowered Cattleya orchids under mine), but they do increase your electric bill! Eugene Zielinski Augusta, GA USA > [Original Message] > Subject: [pbs] Plant lights > > I hear that T12 fluorescent tubes are obsolete and will soon be unavailble because of government mandate. I have many T12 fixtures and have read that one can purchase a converter that enables T12 fixtures to handle  T 5. Does anyone have any experience with these conversion pieces? Dell _______________________________________________ From robin@no1bird.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1CF79F27B0AE4EF4816CAB7B34D15226@OwnerPC> From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:35:17 -0500 i don't think i r eceived any notice that my membership had xpired. it probably has. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane McGary" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 6:48 PM Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members >I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that > is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use > for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many > people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We > do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, > but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew > their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to > serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which > includes the BX and our newsletter. > > Thanks! > > Jane McGary > Membership Coordinator > Pacific Bulb Society > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <16368393.1885106.1330483249161.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 20:40:49 -0600 (CST) Robin: We are in the process of sending out reminder post cards. Arnold On 02/28/12, Robin Carrier wrote: i don't think i r eceived any notice that my membership had xpired. it probably has. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane McGary" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 6:48 PM Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members >I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that > is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use > for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many > people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We > do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, > but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew > their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to > serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which > includes the BX and our newsletter. > > Thanks! > > Jane McGary > Membership Coordinator > Pacific Bulb Society > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jgglatt@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4D908B.2060601@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Galanthus from Linden Hill Gardens Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:42:19 -0500 Linden Hill Gardens is in Ottsville, Pennsylvania. Retail nursery, garden design for clients with deep pockets. I know the owner, Jerry Fritz. He is a nice guy who appears on Martha Stewart's television show every now and then. And the e-mail I just received about his appearance on Martha's show this coming Thursday, March 1st, also mentions plants for sale at the Philadelphia Flower Show where he'll have two booths. If you cannot come to the show, the e-mail notes, he'll mail order galanthus he has for sale. Some really terrible images but an extensive list, astonishingly so. I have absolutely no idea where he's getting them, what the quality is like, how many of each he might have on offer. Prices range from $2.50 to $60 each. http://lindenhillgardens.com/about-jerry/galanthus/ There will be a snowdrop tea party at Linden Hill Gardens on March 17 and 18. If I get there you may be sure I'll report on the event. This is very strange. Galanthomania, anyone? Judy in New Jersey where galanthus are indeed flowering very nicely in my garden**** From robin@no1bird.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Carrier" Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:45:17 -0500 thanks.how about emails? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 9:40 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] A question for PBS members > Robin: > > We are in the process of sending out reminder post cards. > > Arnold > > > > > On 02/28/12, Robin Carrier wrote: > > i don't think i r eceived any notice that my membership had xpired. it > probably has. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jane McGary" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 6:48 PM > Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members > > >>I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that >> is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use >> for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many >> people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We >> do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, >> but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew >> their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to >> serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which >> includes the BX and our newsletter. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jane McGary >> Membership Coordinator >> Pacific Bulb Society >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From mmattus@charter.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Asphodelus acaulis Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:49:32 -0500 I too have had a Asphodelus acaulis (for ten years now), but growing in a long tom plunged in a sand bed in the cold greenhouse. My plant has bloomed every year for ten years, and provides a nice show from around Christmas until mid-February. Last year I noticed that it was larger, but began to flower less, so I decided to divide it while the plant was dry and dormant in July. The crown easily separated into about nine crowns, each with a nice set of thick roots ( which I shared through Dell on the PBS bulb exchange). The largest one I kept for myself. This year, it bloomed again, but more profusely than it had in the past. I would say that it like being divided. - - (note - my plant stays quite wet in the sand bed while growing in the winter, but it goes completely dry during the long, hot summer. Matt Mattus USDA Zone 6a Worcester, MA > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <32854790.1886166.1330483912520.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 20:51:52 -0600 (CST) Robin: Jane posted a note about renewing. Not all of our paid members belong to the PBS forum. Arnold On 02/28/12, Robin Carrier wrote: thanks.how about emails? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 9:40 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] A question for PBS members > Robin: > > We are in the process of sending out reminder post cards. > > Arnold > > > > > On 02/28/12, Robin Carrier wrote: > > i don't think i r eceived any notice that my membership had xpired. it > probably has. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jane McGary" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 6:48 PM > Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members > > >>I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that >> is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use >> for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many >> people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We >> do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, >> but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew >> their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to >> serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which >> includes the BX and our newsletter. >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jane McGary >> Membership Coordinator >> Pacific Bulb Society >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1330487378.64141.YahooMailNeo@web84519.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Indicator plants Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 19:49:38 -0800 (PST) Leo, I often let a weed or two persist in pots to act as a drought indicator.  I grow almost everything else you mentioned (except Chenopodium berlandieri)  at my community garden plot. Although I've known about it almost all my gardening life, I grew mignonette last year for the first time. It's nothing to look at, but I hope I'm never without it in season going forward, The Eschscholzia, Phacelia and Linaria are typical burn-out annuals here: if started late they amount to nothing, if started early the sometimes give weeks of bloom. In either case, by July they are calling it quits.  I like the idea of combining bulbs with annuals if only because most bulbs have a very fleeting garden presence, yet the annuals sometimes go on for months. Yet when the time comes to handle the bulbs, the annuals are often declining, and there's no pain in pulling them out and going in for the bulbs.  Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org     From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 20:04:59 -0800 On 28 February 2012 15:48, Jane McGarry wrote: > I would like to ask people on this forum who were, > but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew > their membership. > > Jane McGarry > Membership Coordinator Pacific Bulb Society > Sorry Jane, I was a bit late late with my payment, I did read the section where it says you don't send reminders, but i just got my months mixed up, i thought i paid after the 10th month & had a year membership up my sleeve, but when i checked about a week ago, i realised i paid on the 8th month, so i actually only got 4 months membership for my payment, i should have waited for 2 months haha..... just kidding : ) So i payed mine again for 2012 about a week ago. Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 00:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4DBAC4.3050601@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Heamanthus Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 18:42:28 +1300 I was given a Haemanthus in April last year, which she bought from Terry Hatch of Joy Plants for me. He sold it from his own collection and it is a very special one. It will have a white flower eventually. But I cannot find the full name online. I am pretty sure it starts with Haemanthus coccinea, but there is more to the name. https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/Garden?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ3fubLO7YSTqAE#5714426834099923554 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From gardenstreet184@yahoo.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 00:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <1330494412.20229.YahooMailNeo@web36506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: "C.J. Teevan" Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:46:52 -0800 (PST) I have every intention of renewing my membership - but I am busy and someone else goes thru my mail these days.  I enjoy reading all your posts and the membership cost is worth it to me, to be the fly on the wall listening to what gardening scientists talk about.  I have to do everything on the internet, or it doesn't usually get done. ________________________________ From: steven hart To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 11:04 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] A question for PBS members On 28 February 2012 15:48, Jane McGarry wrote: > I would like to ask people on this forum who were, > but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew > their membership. > > Jane McGarry > Membership Coordinator Pacific Bulb Society > Sorry Jane, I was a bit late late with my payment, I did read the section where it says you don't send reminders, but i just got my months mixed up, i thought i paid after the 10th month & had a year membership up my sleeve, but when i checked about a week ago, i realised i paid on the 8th month, so i actually only got 4 months membership for my payment, i should have waited for 2 months haha..... just kidding  : ) So i payed mine again for 2012 about a week ago. Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5  Winter Zone 10 From meneice@att.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 00:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <066906E994B54F3AB9351F6757776CAE@DF5XS5C1> From: "Shirley Meneice" Subject: A question for PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 21:49:21 -0800 If I didn't I meant to and hope I have. Shirley Meneice -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jane McGary Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2012 3:48 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] A question for PBS members I just exported information from our PBS membership database (that is, dues-paying members of the PBS) for Arnold Trachtenberg to use for mailing the PBS print newsletter. As usual, I noticed that many people who joined last year (or earlier) did not renew for 2012. We do wonder why, so I would like to ask people on this forum who were, but are not now, paying members to comment on why they didn't renew their membership. We hope to find out what more the PBS can do to serve bulb enthusiasts and keep up our full membership, which includes the BX and our newsletter. Thanks! Jane McGary Membership Coordinator Pacific Bulb Society From toadlily@olywa.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 00:00:13 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4DCD88.20607@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: Sorta OT: An opportunity to meet other PBS members Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2012 23:02:32 -0800 Hi folks! The Northwestern Chapter of NARGS ( North American Rock Garden Society ) is hosting the annual Western Winter Study Weekend the week after next (9-11 March 2012) in Everett, Washington. In the past, members of the PBS that are attending, or those that are in the area, have gotten together for a "meet and greet". It's a great chance to finally meet some of the people that we communicate with through the forum, and to get a chance to talk about our favorite types of plants. If we choose to meet on Saturday the 10th, at say 3:00 p.m. in Ballroom II, that would work well. As an added inducement for those not attending the full event, the public is being invited to come enjoy the plant and book sales, and to partake of the 'Tips and Tricks' presentations from 12:30 to 5 p.m. If there is a change to the meeting place, it will be posted both online, and at the information table in the plant sales room. There are going to be roughly 17 northwest nurseries selling plants, and over 400 plant related books have been gathered. Full details are at: http://nedm.drizzlehosting.com/2012/2012.htm Alas, I'm going to be busy hosting the 'Tips and Tricks' presentations during the selected time of the gathering, but please come by the Hoyt room and say "HI". Good gardening, Dave Brastow = Tumwater, Washington, where many seedling Crocus are blooming for the first time, making me very happy!! From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 03:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: <5D3A84257C51442B902C2B53CC8B12A2@MAINPC> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 08:26:26 -0000 What must also be remembered about snowdrops is that their foliage continues to grow and expand greatly after flowering finishes, making in many cases a very substantial tuft of foliage that can actually seem rather coarse - but in some cases is rather ornamental (think narrow-leaved Hosta). This massive leaf expansion is overlooked by proponents of moving snowdrops while in growth - the damaged roots have to attempt to support the foliage and usually can't, with the result that the bulb goes dormant early and is rather smaller than it should be. While tending to think that size is not necessarily a good thing in a snowdrop, a proportionately large flower on a large plant can make for a spectacular sight. Unfortunately, many tall clones of G. elwesii have disproportionately small flowers that make the plant disappointing. I've just measured a flower or two of the clone 'Ione Hecker' (one of the Mighty Atom clan) outside my door; they are 45 mm long, on long pedicels and are a fine sight on a plant no more than 22 cm tall. G. elwesii 'Big Boy' nearby is a comparatively disappointing 39 mm, but again it is a rather short plant so the flowers show well. To illustrate the size of these flowers, standard G. nivalis measures 25-30 mm, and 'S. Arnott' 28 mm long. (Measurements are the outer perianth segment length, from junction with the ovary to the apex, all on fully developed flowers - snowdrop flower shape and size changes considerably as flowering progresses.) John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 Snowdrops at Colesbourne Park 2012 Every Saturday and Sunday in February and 3-4 March from 1pm Guided group tours on weekdays by appointment. ----- Original Message ----- > >OK. Up for the challenge..... one 13.5 and one 14 inches. >>The flowers weren't open wide yet, so I measured the length of petals >>on one of them: 1.5 inches. >> >>Diane Whitehead > > Dear Diane and others, > You have met the challenge to deny those who claim Snow Drops > are tiny and insignificant. This size exceeds most if not all Crocus > and a good many tulips. > -- > Dr. James W. Waddick From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 03:00:19 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Galanthomania in the US Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 08:48:39 -0000 I can comment on this from a transatlantic perspective, and can assure everyone that there are a number of avid galanthophiles in North America who are prepared to pay comparatively (and indeed very) large sums for individual snowdrop bulbs. However, as with all such interests, there are many more who just enjoy snowdrops than would pay more than a few pounds or dollars for a bulb, while a few collectors will really splash out - and this is as true here as it is in North America. The difference, perhaps, is that in Britain snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) are ubiquitous and appear in almost every garden and in many uncultivated places too: they are loved and appreciated, but serious galanthophiles are comparatively scarce. John Grimshaw Visit John Grimshaw's Garden Diary http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/ Dr. John M. Grimshaw Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Tel. 01242 870567 Snowdrops at Colesbourne Park 2012 Every Saturday and Sunday in February and 3-4 March from 1pm Guided group tours on weekdays by appointment. From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 06:00:17 -0800 Message-Id: <1330519469.39350.YahooMailClassic@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Plant lights Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 04:44:29 -0800 (PST)  Off the subject of the original request -- With a little work you can get LED lights in the ideal wavelength for plants, install them in some form to hang over the plants. These will last longer, no worries of breaking, and the energy use is extremely limited. Here at the university we were fortunate enough to have some prototypes offered with some cost, but the resulting product is amazing and the response from plants, though not yet quantitatively analyzed, has been outstanding. Premade ones are usually found at hydroponics shops, but be prepared to have the local government watch you if you buy too many!  Aaron  E Tennessee --- On Wed, 2/29/12, Eugene Zielinski wrote: From: Eugene Zielinski Subject: Re: [pbs] Plant lights I don't know about converters, but I do know that T-8 and T-12 fluorescent tubes require different ballasts.  From jshields@indy.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 06:00:17 -0800 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20120229084619.052b0d30@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Heamanthus Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 08:49:43 -0500 Hi Ina, I agree, it is not H. coccineus. I also think it is not H. albiflos. It might well be Haemanthus humilis hirsutus. I should note that Terry has been doing some hybridizing with Haemanthus, and has re-made the old cross [albiflos x coccineus] with very colorful results. Regards, Jim Shields At 06:42 PM 2/29/2012 +1300, Ina wrote: >I was given a Haemanthus in April last year, which she bought from Terry >Hatch of Joy Plants for me. He sold it from his own collection and it >is a very special one. It will have a white flower eventually. But I >cannot find the full name online. I am pretty sure it starts with >Haemanthus coccinea, but there is more to the name. > >https://picasaweb.google.com/102349754034616089606/Garden?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ3fubLO7YSTqAE#5714426834099923554 > >-- >Ina Crossley >Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <0M050098AU23D3H3@vms173013.mailsrvcs.net> From: "arnold140@verizon.net" Subject: Plant lights Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:07:56 -0600 Aaron. That's funny. I went into a hydroponic shop and thought I was at a gratful dead concert Arnold ------------------------------ Sent using Verizon.net Mobile ----- Original Message ---- From: aaron floden To: Pacific Bulb Society CC: Sent: Wednesday, 29 February, 2012 06:44:29 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Plant lights  Off the subject of the original request -- With a little work you can get LED lights in the ideal wavelength for plants, install them in some form to hang over the plants. These will last longer, no worries of breaking, and the energy use is extremely limited. Here at the university we were fortunate enough to have some prototypes offered with some cost, but the resulting product is amazing and the response from plants, though not yet quantitatively analyzed, has been outstanding. Premade ones are usually found at hydroponics shops, but be prepared to have the local government watch you if you buy too many! Aaron E Tennessee--- On Wed, 2/29/12, Eugene Zielinski wrote:From: Eugene Zielinski Subject: Re: [pbs] Plant lightsI don't know about converters, but I do know that T-8 and T-12 fluorescenttubes require different ballasts.  _______________________________________________pbs mailing listpbs@lists.ibiblio.orghttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.phphttp://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bonsaigai37@aol.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <8CEC50C3E28281F-1E74-9D82@web-mmc-d07.sysops.aol.com> From: bonsaigai37@aol.com Subject: Plant lights Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 10:16:28 -0500 (EST) Many years ago, I had a 1000 metal halide for overwintering plants in the attic. I called the local authorities and invited them to see the collection. They laughed, but I still felt better about it. The light and fixture have been gone for years now, but I'm looking into again. Those shops are hysterical! Michael Zone 6 Aaron. That's funny. I went into a hydroponic shop and thought I was at a gratful dead concert Arnold Premade ones are usually found at hydroponics shops, but be prepared to have the local government watch you if you buy too many! Aaron E From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <1330530266.24403.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Plant lights Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 07:44:26 -0800 (PST) Aaron wrote: "Premade ones are usually found at hydroponics shops, but  be prepared to have the local government watch you if you buy too many!"    Arnold wrote: "Aaron. That's funny. I went into a hydroponic shop and thought I was at a  gratful dead concert."  Michael wrote: "Many years ago, I had a 1000 metal halide for overwintering plants in the attic.  I called the local authorities and invited them to see the collection.  They laughed, but I still felt better about it.  The light and fixture have been gone for years now, but I'm looking into again.  Those shops are hysterical!" I did a blog entry about four years ago which touches on this topic. Take a look here: http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2008/01/buds.html Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org      From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 09:00:16 -0800 Message-Id: <410-220122329161652578@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Plant lights Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 11:16:52 -0500 We used to use T12 VHO for growing plants indoors but would go with T5 HO now...a mix of 3000 and 6500 K Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USA Frit. davisii in the minor bulb bed this morning under cloudy skie From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4E680D.6000606@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Heamanthus Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2012 07:01:49 +1300 Thanks Jim. And no, it is not H albiflos, I have that too. Will update later when the leaves have grown more, as the piece I got originally from him, had 2 long leaves. Ina On 1/03/2012 2:49 a.m., J.E. Shields wrote: > I agree, it is not H. coccineus. I also think it is not H. albiflos. It might well be Haemanthus humilis hirsutus. > Jim Shields -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: <32E505D2AD29E344A76A2672C0622C6D6107B30327@MBX12.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Heamanthus Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 18:18:36 +0000 Hi Ina, I have a couple of little ones like yours and it looks like Haemanthus carneus to me. Fred From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4E7067.5080800@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Heamanthus Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2012 07:37:27 +1300 I will update on this as time goes on, by now it is quite exciting to see what I do have........ On 1/03/2012 7:18 a.m., Fred Biasella wrote: > I have a couple of little ones like yours and it looks like Haemanthus carneus to me. > > Fred -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From maxwithers@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4E79FC.10204@gmail.com> From: Max Withers Subject: Lilium bolanderi growing Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 11:18:20 -0800 Congratulations, Steven! I take the resounding silence in reply to your question to indicate that few people have sucessfully grown L. bolanderi from seed. I have tried, and lost the seedlings during their first summer dormancy. Next time, I think I will try making them a personal sand plunge to keep them from drying out completely. I wish I had better advice! Best, Max Withers Oakland CA From erle@dsl.pipex.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Erle Randall" Subject: Galanthus - Giant. Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 19:18:22 -0000 Hello Diane When my son first started a garden in Victoria (he is/was a member of VIRAGS) he described his snowdrops which I guess he had got from Paul Spriggs and I told him he must be getting muddled with snowflakes as snowdrops didn't grow that big! The next year I saw them and had to apologise. Maybe Paul got his from you. Funnily enough the 2 bulbs I pinched from his garden have done nothing for me here although they are still alive. Erle Anglesey 10°C and a bit of late sun. Diane Whitehead (Tue, 28 Feb 2012 16:59:13 PST) Yes, elwesii. Unnamed. I have many, as they seeded themselves for about 80 years in my grandparents' garden. From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:00:28 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Indicator plants Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 19:18:45 +0000 I use summer green small Alliums among the central Aisian Fritilarias and Juno Iris, plunged on a sand bench, as indicators. If these Alliums start to go dormant I water them which stops seedling Junos dessicating. I also allow the occasional seedling of an annual 'Lupin' which likes the sand, (I'm not sure of it's exact identity). Peter (UK) On Wed, Feb 29, 2012 at 3:49 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Leo, I often let a weed or two persist in pots to act as a drought > indicator. > declining, and there's no pain in pulling them out and going in for the > bulbs. > > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: A question for PBS members/Lilium bolanderi growing Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 11:35:11 -0800 Stephen wrote, >I joined towards the end of 2011. Is the membership valid a calender >year from the date one joins of is renewal required Jan 1st? Answer: Stephen joined in November 2011, so he doesn't have to renew until January 2013. People who join after October 1 are considered to be paid through the following calendar year, but thereafter they need to renew each January. For example, someone who joined in July 2011 needed to renew in January 2012. This policy has to do with the mailing schedule of the print newsletter, which is the largest ongoing expense paid for by dues. > >Secondly, I was lucky enough to come across a group of Bolander's >lily setting seed in September in Josephine County, OR. It seemed to >me it was certain to be Bolander's as it was growing in full sun on >a serpentine ridge.. > Does anyone have any tips as to the raising of this species from > seed? How long until the seedling bulbs are potted individually? > What are some dangers to be on the look out for? Seed to flower years? > I haven't succeeded in flowering Lilium bolanderi, which is notoriously difficult outside its native range, but I have raised plants that lasted about 4 years. My advice is not to disturb the seedling bulbs for two years, and when you do move them on, take the whole ball of soil from the seed pot with as little disturbance as possible and put it right into a larger pot, unless you have a large number of small bulbs. Note that plants often seen on serpentine (ultramafic rocks and their soils) do not require this type of soil; they are tolerant of it and are thought by some botanists to grow there by preference because many other plants can't tolerate the high level of magnesium, so there is less competition. Another theory is that the unusual mineral composition helps the plants resist disease. I don't know if either of these theories has been scientifically tested. Serpentine is common in the Siskiyou Mountains of southern Oregon. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Protected ovary, was Asphodelus acaulis Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 11:45:22 -0800 Alberto Castillo wrote The same purpose, a protected ovary in >Sternbergia >Haylockia >Biarum >Saniella >Apodolirion >Gethyllis >Empodium >Crocus >Galaxia >Colchicum and relatives I haven't seen Sternbergia actually bury the capsule the way Asphodelus acaulis does, but the scape does bend over and lay the capsule on the ground. Crocus and Colchicum capsules remain below the soil surface, or mostly so, until ready to dehisce (when the capsule releases the seeds). Then in Crocus, the capsule often pops above the surface very quickly (I wonder what the mechanism is?) to a couple of centimeters high in some species. Crocus seeds appear to be carried off by ants. Another odd characteristic of some bulbs that must be an adaptation to avoid grazing animals is that some Fritillaria species keep the scape (flowering stem) almost horizontal until right before the flowers open; then it straightens up to where the bees will notice it more, I suppose. It remains erect while the seed ripens; the seeds are probably wind-dispersed. Bulbs, you can see, are interesting even when not in flower. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Questions about membership Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 12:14:52 -0800 If you have a question about the status of your PBS membership, please write to me privately, rather than posting an inquiry to the forum. janemcgary@earthlink.net Thanks much, Jane McGary Membership Coordinator From annamwal@interia.pl Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <57A028AFDF95426B9D7E9E4B2AF88CE0@MarekKomputer> From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: That's Hippeastrum time Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 21:37:28 +0100 Hi, Today is the second Hippeastrum hybrid blooming, now at my office. I have got it in January, bought with a label "Amaryllis. Red". So I don't know what the cultivar is it. Maybe someone can help. http://mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/poza_spisem/hippe_red_ii12.html Marek Walnik, Poland PS. Sorry for my English in last post, and for the second copy of my first mail - I have sent it from other address, and when it wasn't here for some time, I sent it from the other one. MW From ds429@comcast.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <840451916.2111333.1330548137912.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: another opportunity for PBS members to meet Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 20:42:17 +0000 (UTC) Hi All, On March 17 & 18, there will be a clivia show and symposium at Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square, PA. I will be there as will some other members of PBS. Hope to see some of you there. Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <4F4E8F2C.5090104@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Protected ovary, was Asphodelus acaulis Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2012 09:48:44 +1300 My Sternbergia lutea doesn't set seed. Which ones do? Ina On 1/03/2012 8:45 a.m., Jane McGary wrote: > I haven't seen Sternbergia actually bury the capsule the way > Asphodelus acaulis does, -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 29 Feb 2012 15:00:11 -0800 Message-Id: <1330549733.28975.YahooMailNeo@web84514.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Protected ovary, was Asphodelus acaulis Date: Wed, 29 Feb 2012 13:08:53 -0800 (PST) Another way some bulbs accomplish the same purpose is to keep the ovary underground throughout the flowering-seed setting process. Crocus korolkowii is a good example: if you wait for the seed capsules to appear above ground, you'll never get them because they remain underground.  With regard to Ina's comment about Sternbergia lutea, as far as I know Sternbergia lutea in its commonly cultivated form does not set seed ever. I suspect that it is triploid or aeuploid, and perhaps if allotriploid of hybrid origin. The plants called Sternbergia lutea which set seed are the smaller,  narrower leaf forms which probably represent different taxa.   Jim McKenney jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, 39.021954º North, 77.052102º West, USDA zone 7 My Virtual Maryland Garden http://www.jimmckenney.com   BLOG! http://mcwort.blogspot.com/ Webmaster Potomac Valley Chapter, NARGS  Editor PVC Bulletin http://www.pvcnargs.org   Webmaster Potomac Lily Society http://www.potomaclilysociety.org