From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 01 Aug 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Cleaning Arum seeds - the easy way. Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 10:29:45 -0500 Dear Jane, I think it should be obvious that there are a lot of aroids with differing degrees of irritating chemicals, just as there is a range of skin sensitivities. I am usually fairly sensitive (poison Ivy and such), but I can clean a couple of heads of Arum, Drancunculus or Helicodicerous using bare hands and running water. I do make sure that each fruit is well ripened so the pulp is easy to rub off. I put the head(s) in a small wide bowl and break fruits free of stem. Then run luke warm to cool water and rub fruits together vigorously, squeezing as needed to remove the pulp. Fresh fertile seeds sink, but do not run the water so fast they can wash away. Sloshing and swirling gets rid of pulp. Rub them dry with paper towels and wash your hands with a good hand soap when you are done. As a precaution do not touch eye, nose, mouth etc until hands are fully clean. I don't do a lot of seeds at a time or a lot of fruit head, but have never had a problem. Best Jim W. On Jul 29, 2013, at 8:14 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Since I got some of my more unusual Arum species out of their pots > What is the best way to clean a quantity of this seed? I know one shouldn't handle it without gloves. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 01 Aug 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375373229.27539.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: crocosmias and montbretias Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 09:07:09 -0700 (PDT) Jim Waddick wrote:   "We then found another way to get better garden success. We bought dry corms in fall as they are almost always available in variety.  "  Jim, where are you getting dry corms in the fall? I don't think I've ever seen crocosmias offered in the fall.  And of the forty or so varieties you are growing, are all from domestic sources? If so, can you name some sources? Have you tried importing them from the UK?  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu, 01 Aug 2013 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Brian Duncan narcissus seedlist Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2013 09:47:12 -0700 Brian Duncan, a narcissus breeder, searches Europe for wild daffodils. He has a seed list of species and some hybrids (for instance, N. radinganoru, N. vardulensis, N. bulbocodium (akersianus x graellsii & hedraeanthus). He asks that buyers act quickly as he will want to sow any non-sold seeds soon. Brian Duncan Daffodils “Knowehead”, 15 Ballynahatty Rd., OMAGH, Co Tyrone, BT78 1PN Tel. 02882 242931. E-mail. Brisdee@tyrone-online.co.uk He sent his seed list to the PBS, but attachments cannot be sent out on our list. You can email him and ask for his Narcissus Species Seed List 2013 Diane Whitehead From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <003601ce8fa7$6bfdf940$43f9ebc0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 10:40:45 -0700 Diane wrote: > Brian Duncan, a narcissus breeder, searches Europe for wild daffodils Diane, would you like to nominate him for inclusion in our Sources list? A reminder to everyone: you are encouraged to nominate your favorite species species seed and bulb suppliers for inclusion in the PBS Sources list. You can see the current list here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources Ground rules: --Suppliers are listed as a public service. PBS doesn't endorse them and has no business relationship with them. --You can't nominate yourself. --Please nominate a company only if you've bought from them and were satisfied with their products and service. --Everyone who's in business has some complaints against them, but if there have been *a lot* of complaints from our members about a supplier, we reserve the right not to list them. --We're not looking to list suppliers who resell bulbs collected from the wild (rescue bulbs excepted). --We don't list the mass-market suppliers of mainstream hybrid bulbs (Breck's, White Flower Farm, McClure & Zimmerman, etc). Nothing wrong with them, but our focus is mostly on species, and besides the big guys get plenty of publicity already. What we're after are the small suppliers who are otherwise hard to find, and who carry a lot of hard-to-find species or very unusual hybrids. You can send me an e-mail message to nominate a supplier, or post your nomination to the list. Thanks, Mike San Jose, CA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 02 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 10:45:32 -0700 We have received an inquiry via the PBS website from a gardener in France who is seeking a source for Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides. If anyone knows a source, preferably within the EU, for this lily, please reply to this message and I will pass the information on to him. L. speciosum itself is widely grown, but this variety, or subspecies (I think), is rare in cultivation. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator, PBS From antigre10@yahoo.gr Fri, 02 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1375467172.44404.YahooMailNeo@web171502.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Σχετ: Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 19:12:52 +0100 (BST) I bought one this spring from Pottertons nursery  http://www.pottertons.co.uk/pott/index.php Antigoni   Gythio Greece ________________________________ Απο: Jane McGary Προς: Pacific Bulb Society Στάλθηκε: 8:45 μ.μ. Παρασκευή, 2 Αυγούστου 2013 Θέμα: [pbs] Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides We have received an inquiry via the PBS website from a gardener in France who is seeking a source for Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides. If anyone knows a source, preferably within the EU, for this lily, please reply to this message and I will pass the information on to him. L. speciosum itself is widely grown, but this variety, or subspecies (I think), is rare in cultivation. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator, PBS _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <3F361E92-E5A5-4FA8-B5A4-C03863F2A223@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 11:22:23 -0700 Michael, I think he would be a good source for our list, but I have not bought seeds from him, so I am not eligible to nominate him. Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? Diane On 2013-08-02, at 10:40 AM, "Michael Mace" wrote: > > Diane wrote: > >> Brian Duncan, a narcissus breeder, searches Europe for wild daffodils > > Diane, would you like to nominate him for inclusion in our Sources list? > > From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1375468160.37944.YahooMailNeo@web186004.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 19:29:20 +0100 (BST) Jacques Amand and Kevock Garden Plants are both listed in the RHS plant finder. I grew it a few years back but forget where mine came from, and no longer have it.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 >________________________________ >From: Jane McGary >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Friday, 2 August 2013, 18:45 >Subject: [pbs] Lilium speciosum var. gloriosoides > > >We have received an inquiry via the PBS website from a gardener in >France who is seeking a source for Lilium speciosum var. >gloriosoides. If anyone knows a source, preferably within the EU, for >this lily, please reply to this message and I will pass the >information on to him. > >L. speciosum itself is widely grown, but this variety, or subspecies >(I think), is rare in cultivation. > >Jane McGary >Membership Coordinator, PBS > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From d.avensis@virgin.net Fri, 02 Aug 2013 13:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <51FC0493.1080307@virgin.net> From: David Nicholson Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:12:19 +0100 I regularly order both seed and bulbs from Brian Duncan and they are always the best possible quality. David Nicholson in Devon, UK Zone 9b where it is currently thundering and pouring down. On 02/08/2013 19:22, Diane Whitehead wrote: Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? From arnold140@verizon.net Fri, 02 Aug 2013 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <27369122.131860.1375481701136.JavaMail.root@vznit170188> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 17:15:00 -0500 (CDT) Diane: I've purchased both seeds and bulbs from Brian with complete satisfaction for about three years now. You've seen many of the both here and on the SRGC. Arnold Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? Diane From ksa2006@verizon.net Fri, 02 Aug 2013 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <024e01ce8fd5$d632e9f0$8298bdd0$@verizon.net> From: "Kathryn S. Andersen" Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 02 Aug 2013 19:13:01 -0400 I have known Brian well for over 35 years, purchased bulbs from him and traveled with him searching for narcissus in the wild every year for more years than I like to think. He is a fastidious grower and unbeatable exhibitor. Kathy Andersen -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of arnold140@verizon.net Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 6:15 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Diane: I've purchased both seeds and bulbs from Brian with complete satisfaction for about three years now. You've seen many of the both here and on the SRGC. Arnold Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? Diane From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <93DF024F-942E-4D75-9083-406A474AA747@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: A New Crinum Queen: 'Glory' Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 18:35:55 -0500 Dear Friends, I believe there may be a new Queen of Crinums, if I may be so bold. Two years ago, Jay Yourch send me a bulb of his new hybrid Crinum 'Glory' to see if it had the hardiness of its parents. This seedling is named for his mother and combines two very interesting parents. The pod parent is 'Super Ellen' an amazing hardy Crinum of great beauty. 'Super Ellen' has been hardy in my Zone 5/6 garden for years and regularly puts up six foot tall stalks of deep rose/red flowers for weeks on end. The Pollen parent 'Mrs James Hendry' did not prove hardy in my garden, but it has pure white flowers with a lovely scent. The combined seedling first bloomed today. The flowers are noticeably bigger than any other hardy Crinum I grow including "Super Ellen': larger by as much as 20%. The stalks are shorter than 'Super Ellen' at about 40 to 45 inches, but the diameter of the stalks is bigger indicating a strong upright stalk and display. The plant is medium size for a Crinum, very appropriate to many gardens. The flowers as I said are huge. I measure the unopened buds as 5 inches long. The flowers are the richest pink imaginable with paler throat: a very refined flower. There is a pleasant floral scent even from a short distance away and it is not cloying. So in short and for a first bloom I am very impressed and look forward to even better growth and bloom as it fully settles down. So thanks to Jay and Congrats on his hybridization trials. I understand Tony Avent's Plant Delights Nursery is in the process of propagating this hybrid. I hope he can figure out a way to get a lot of them out to the growing public fast. Jay's pictures of this beauty can be seen at http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPink#Glory All hail 'Glory'. Best Jim W. From jay.yourch@gmail.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: A New Crinum Queen: 'Glory' Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 22:37:41 -0400 Jim, Many thanks for the kind words. I hoped I had something special when I collected the single seed from 'Super Ellen' late summer 2005. At the time I had no idea how stingy 'Super Ellen' is about making seeds, it's never given me another seed and I've hand pollinated nearly every flower my clump has made since then. When it flowered for the first time in 2009, in the care of Alani Davis, it was very clear immediately that the new hybrid had exceeded expectations. But then the waiting game began, and by 2011 Alani and I were able to distribute a small number of offsets. Jim was one of the recipients because his garden's location would test the new hybrid's cold tolerance. I am very pleased that 'Glory' has survived the cold winters, prospered and flowered in his garden, and that Jim enthusiastically agrees that 'Glory' really is something special. Hopefully Plant Delights can solve the numbers problem so that 'Glory' is no longer rare. Regards, Jay On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 7:35 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Friends, > > I believe there may be a new Queen of Crinums, if I may be so > bold. Two years ago, Jay Yourch send me a bulb of his new hybrid Crinum > 'Glory' to see if it had the hardiness of its parents. This seedling is > named for his mother and combines two very interesting parents. The pod > parent is 'Super Ellen' an amazing hardy Crinum of great beauty. 'Super > Ellen' has been hardy in my Zone 5/6 garden for years and regularly puts up > six foot tall stalks of deep rose/red flowers for weeks on end. The Pollen > parent 'Mrs James Hendry' did not prove hardy in my garden, but it has pure > white flowers with a lovely scent. > > The combined seedling first bloomed today. The flowers are > noticeably bigger than any other hardy Crinum I grow including "Super > Ellen': larger by as much as 20%. The stalks are shorter than 'Super Ellen' > at about 40 to 45 inches, but the diameter of the stalks is bigger > indicating a strong upright stalk and display. The plant is medium size for > a Crinum, very appropriate to many gardens. > > The flowers as I said are huge. I measure the unopened buds as 5 > inches long. The flowers are the richest pink imaginable with paler throat: > a very refined flower. There is a pleasant floral scent even from a short > distance away and it is not cloying. > > So in short and for a first bloom I am very impressed and look > forward to even better growth and bloom as it fully settles down. So thanks > to Jay and Congrats on his hybridization trials. > > I understand Tony Avent's Plant Delights Nursery is in the process > of propagating this hybrid. I hope he can figure out a way to get a lot of > them out to the growing public fast. Jay's pictures of this beauty can be > seen at > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPink#Glory > > All hail 'Glory'. Best Jim W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 02 Aug 2013 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <00f101ce9004$9d8d11a0$d8a734e0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Hymenocallis ID? Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 21:47:51 -0700 Nicky Ross wrote to the wiki asking for help identifying a plant that may be Hymenocallis littoralis. You can see photos of it on the Mystery bulbs page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs Scroll to the bottom for the photos. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike San Jose, CA From fierycloud2002@yahoo.com.tw Sat, 03 Aug 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375510608.53834.YahooMailNeo@web75201.mail.tw1.yahoo.com> From: Fierycloud Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:16:48 +0800 (CST) Hello: Will there be more pictures of bulbs of other bulbous species? Su-Hong-Ciao Taiwan From fierycloud2002@yahoo.com.tw Sat, 03 Aug 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375510813.67137.YahooMailNeo@web75201.mail.tw1.yahoo.com> From: Fierycloud Subject: Chinese Plant Exports Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:20:13 +0800 (CST) Hello: I don't know the process of each country. But the importation plants from oversea to Taiwan is seriously follow the process defined by the international organizations such as IPPC and WTO SPS, etc. The BAPHIQ told me that the phytosanitary certificate is only meaningful for the country which issued it. It doesn't means that the import country should accept it. Because each country have it's own concerned organism and administrative process. (The certificate is true, but maybe not be accepted) Su-Hong-Ciao Taiwan From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 23:34:00 -0700 Hi, I hope someone checked with Brian , before they listed him as a source. I know he's semi-retired, and may not be looking for mega-business . Better to ask him. Clayton On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 4:13 PM, Kathryn S. Andersen wrote: > I have known Brian well for over 35 years, purchased bulbs from him and > traveled with him searching for narcissus in the wild every year for more > years than I like to think. He is a fastidious grower and unbeatable > exhibitor. > > Kathy Andersen > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of arnold140@verizon.net > Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 6:15 PM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was > Narcissus seedlist) > > Diane: > > I've purchased both seeds and bulbs from Brian with complete satisfaction > for about three years now. > > You've seen many of the both here and on the SRGC. > > Arnold > > > Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? > > Diane > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 04:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1375526281.20615.YahooMailNeo@web160902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Hymenocallis ID? Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 03:38:01 -0700 (PDT) >________________________________ > From: Michael Mace >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 12:47 AM >Subject: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? > > > >Michael Mace wrote: >"Nicky Ross wrote to the wiki asking for help identifying a plant that may be >Hymenocallis littoralis. You can see photos of it on the Mystery bulbs page:" > > >Looks to me like Hymenocallis narcissiflora or one of its hybrids. > > >Jonathan Lubar >Alachua/Gainesville, Florida, z8b/9a > > From jshields@indy.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130803082238.0336fce8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hymenocallis ID? Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 08:23:16 -0400 I agree -- Ismene 'Festalis' or Ismene narcissiflora. Jim Shields At 03:38 AM 8/3/2013 -0700, you wrote: > >________________________________ > > From: Michael Mace > >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 12:47 AM > >Subject: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? > > > > > > > >Michael Mace wrote: > >"Nicky Ross wrote to the wiki asking for help identifying a plant that > may be > >Hymenocallis littoralis. You can see photos of it on the Mystery bulbs > page:" > > > > > >Looks to me like Hymenocallis narcissiflora or one of its hybrids. > > > > > >Jonathan Lubar > >Alachua/Gainesville, Florida, z8b/9a > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375533482.2318.YahooMailNeo@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Hymenocallis I Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 05:38:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? > >"I agree -- Ismene 'Festalis' or Ismene narcissiflora. > >Jim Shields" > > >Ooops, Ismene yes, no longer Hymenocallis -- thanks, Jim -- I stand corrected and updated! > > >Jonathan Lubar >Alachua, Florida, z8b/9a From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 09:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <51FD2112.8070602@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 16:26:10 +0100 We have had both bulbs and seed from Brian Duncan - he is an impeccable source. Maggi and Ian Young From truls@wildgingerfarm.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <4618AEA7-C9ED-425B-A88C-2AA5BC8070E5@wildgingerfarm.com> From: Truls at Wild Ginger Farm Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 127, Issue 4 Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 09:56:32 -0700 O.K. See you then. Truls Wild Ginger Farm 24000 S Schuebel School Rd Beavercreek, OR 97004 503-632-2338 www.wildgingerfarm.com info@wildgingerfarm.com On Aug 3, 2013, at 9:00 AM, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Chinese Plant Exports (Fierycloud) > 2. Re: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was > Narcissus seedlist) (clayton3120 clayton3120) > 3. Re: Hymenocallis ID? (jonathan) > 4. Re: Hymenocallis ID? (J.E. Shields) > 5. Re: Hymenocallis I (jonathan) > 6. Re: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was > Narcissus seedlist) (Youngs Aberdeen) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 14:20:13 +0800 (CST) > From: Fierycloud > Subject: Re: [pbs] Chinese Plant Exports > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > <1375510813.67137.YahooMailNeo@web75201.mail.tw1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Hello: > > I don't know the process of each country. > But the importation plants from oversea to Taiwan is seriously follow the process defined by the international organizations such as IPPC and WTO SPS, etc. > > The BAPHIQ told me that the phytosanitary certificate is only meaningful for the country which issued it. > It doesn't means that the import country should accept it. > Because each country have it's own concerned organism and administrative process. (The certificate is true, but maybe not be accepted) > > Su-Hong-Ciao > Taiwan > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2013 23:34:00 -0700 > From: clayton3120 clayton3120 > Subject: Re: [pbs] You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was > Narcissus seedlist) > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Hi, > I hope someone checked with Brian , before they listed him as a source. I > know he's semi-retired, and may not be looking for mega-business . Better > to ask him. > Clayton > > > On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 4:13 PM, Kathryn S. Andersen wrote: > >> I have known Brian well for over 35 years, purchased bulbs from him and >> traveled with him searching for narcissus in the wild every year for more >> years than I like to think. He is a fastidious grower and unbeatable >> exhibitor. >> >> Kathy Andersen >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >> On Behalf Of arnold140@verizon.net >> Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 6:15 PM >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: Re: [pbs] You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was >> Narcissus seedlist) >> >> Diane: >> >> I've purchased both seeds and bulbs from Brian with complete satisfaction >> for about three years now. >> >> You've seen many of the both here and on the SRGC. >> >> Arnold >> >> >> Is there another member who has bought seeds from Brian? >> >> Diane >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 03:38:01 -0700 (PDT) > From: jonathan > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > <1375526281.20615.YahooMailNeo@web160902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > > > > > >> ________________________________ >> From: Michael Mace >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 12:47 AM >> Subject: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? >> >> >> >> Michael Mace wrote: >> "Nicky Ross wrote to the wiki asking for help identifying a plant that may be >> Hymenocallis littoralis. You can see photos of it on the Mystery bulbs page:" >> >> >> Looks to me like Hymenocallis narcissiflora or one of its hybrids. >> >> >> Jonathan Lubar >> Alachua/Gainesville, Florida, z8b/9a >> >> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 08:23:16 -0400 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130803082238.0336fce8@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed > > I agree -- Ismene 'Festalis' or Ismene narcissiflora. > > Jim Shields > > At 03:38 AM 8/3/2013 -0700, you wrote: > > > > > >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Michael Mace >>> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> Sent: Saturday, August 3, 2013 12:47 AM >>> Subject: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? >>> >>> >>> >>> Michael Mace wrote: >>> "Nicky Ross wrote to the wiki asking for help identifying a plant that >> may be >>> Hymenocallis littoralis. You can see photos of it on the Mystery bulbs >> page:" >>> >>> >>> Looks to me like Hymenocallis narcissiflora or one of its hybrids. >>> >>> >>> Jonathan Lubar >>> Alachua/Gainesville, Florida, z8b/9a >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40? 02.8' N, Long. 086? 06.6' W > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 05:38:02 -0700 (PDT) > From: jonathan > Subject: Re: [pbs] Hymenocallis I > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > <1375533482.2318.YahooMailNeo@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > > > > > > Subject:?Re: [pbs] Hymenocallis ID? >> > >> "I agree -- Ismene 'Festalis' or Ismene narcissiflora. >> >> Jim Shields" >> >> >> Ooops, Ismene yes, no longer Hymenocallis -- thanks, Jim -- I stand corrected and updated! >> >> >> Jonathan Lubar >> Alachua, Florida, z8b/9a > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 16:26:10 +0100 > From: Youngs Aberdeen > Subject: Re: [pbs] You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was > Narcissus seedlist) > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <51FD2112.8070602@btinternet.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > We have had both bulbs and seed from Brian Duncan - he is an > impeccable source. > > Maggi and Ian Young > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 127, Issue 4 > *********************************** From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1F9EFCE0-6BAE-49FA-94E9-EB6B9A110245@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: You can nominate additions to our Sources list (was Narcissus seedlist) Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 10:52:36 -0700 Brian began this. He sent a message to the the PBS list about his new seedlist. His message couldn't be distributed for several technical reasons, so I wrote about it. He told me he was pleased with the extra publicity. Diane On 2013-08-02, at 11:34 PM, clayton3120 clayton3120 wrote: > Hi, > I hope someone checked with Brian , before they listed him as a source. I > know he's semi-retired, and may not be looking for mega-business . Better > to ask him. > Clayton > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Inquiry for Alani Davis Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 11:07:19 -0700 We have received a request to reproduce some photos posted on the PBS website by Alani Davis. Would Alani please contact me privately so I can forward this request? I don't have an e-mail address for Alani. Thanks, Jane McGary Membership Coordinator PBS From eagle.85@verizon.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <095FCF7B-856E-44CD-B314-3C372AE79DBC@verizon.net> From: douglas westfall Subject: Inquiry for Geoff Wilson email Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 11:22:44 -0700 Does anyone have an email address for Geoff Wilson? Doug Westfall From iain@auchgourishbotanicgarden.org Sat, 03 Aug 2013 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <15C556CE9FD54284BC60F887AB3F92A4@homepc> From: Subject: L. speciosum var. gloriosoides Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 21:07:51 +0100 I would be happy to assist this French gardener to obtain an example of this taxon but not until the Autumn, all our lilies are running almost a month late here. There should be no problems over sending this or any other lily bulb within the countries of the EU. As Jane McGary points out it is rare in cultivation and there are a couple of reasons for this, assuming it is the same lily the population in mainland China is not so far as I know available in the trade but might be amongst a few collectors in Europe. The other population, again assuming its the same, is found on Taiwan where it grows on red sandstone cliffs in the north but due to over collecting had become very rare there. The Taiwanese government instituted a propagation programme but somewhere in what passes for my benighted brain I think I may be correct in saying this was based on micro-prop but not sure how wide the genetic base was or is from which they worked. Seed production in cultivation is in any event pretty poor perhaps due to scaling production here in Europe and not being self compatible. I certainly have some difficulty in that sense. It may be of interest that, on the basis of work here, the treatment of this lily is being written up for the new monograph as a taxon at full species level. Not a very radical approach if one makes direct comparisons with any other lilies from the L. speciosum 'group' growing here. The morphological points of difference in comparison are rather significant on several counts. Quite why its current treatment was proposed is a bit baffling, presumably from lack of opportunities to compare them together. Much as has been analogous with L. auratum var. platyphyllum which is now known as L. platyphylum following recent research on comparative phytogenetics. Yet another example of a species hiding in plain sight. Iain From pattoolan@hotmail.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: pat toolan Subject: Inquiry for Geoff Wilson email Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 06:55:25 +0930 If that is Geoff from the UK who grew arilbreds - he no longer has internet access. Pat Toolan PO Box 568, Angaston SA 5353 08 85 648 286 > From: eagle.85@verizon.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 11:22:44 -0700 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Inquiry for Geoff Wilson email > > > Does anyone have an email address for Geoff Wilson? > > Doug Westfall > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat, 03 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 22:35:37 +0100 Hi, In message <1375510608.53834.YahooMailNeo@web75201.mail.tw1.yahoo.com>, Fierycloud writes >Will there be more pictures of bulbs of other bulbous species? >Su-Hong-Ciao >Taiwan There *are* pictures of the bulbs of many other species (besides lilies) on the wiki. The wiki depends on people contributing to it, if you want more bulb photos, go out, dig up a bulb, photograph it, and send us the photo. The long term aim is to produce a page that shows just bulb photos (for comparison purposes). All we have to do, is categorise 17,000 photos (bulb, seed, flower...). We might need some help with that. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Photographing bulbs while dormant Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 15:34:06 -0700 I would like to add to what David wrote, as we in the northern hemisphere who grow summer-dormant bulbs are now in peak season for photographing dormant bulbs. Of course photos of blooms will always be the main focus of flower identification. But there are some instances when a clear photo of the corm, tuber, rhizome or bulb clarifies identification. Or, people may have a dormant bulb they wish to get an idea what it might be. If practical, please include some item for scale in the photo, such as a ruler, hand, or coin. The ideal scale is a 10 mm (1 cm) grid printed AND checked with a ruler then used as the background for bulb photos. One can find such grids online at sites such as http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com/ (Choose millimeters and 10 mm Cartesian). I try to avoid harsh shadows by using cloudy days or indirect lighting. I try to include front and back views in one photo if the bulb has features that cannot be seen from one view. If you are submitting the photo yourself, please note our convention for file naming, like Genus_species_corms_ABC.jpg or Genus_species_bulbs_XYZ3.jpg or feel free to ask a wiki editor to post for you. I will be happy to assist. Sometimes a bulb I received as one name then turns out to be another. If you have not seen a bloom from a received bulb, take the photo now but wait until you get a positive id by seeing the bloom before offering it as a given species. The best situation is to have a pair of photos, bloom and bulb, which go together. So, if repotting is not slow enough already, add a grid sheet and a camera to your potting bench tools. - Gastil David wrote: The wiki depends on people contributing to it, if you want more bulb photos, go out, dig up a bulb, photograph it, and send us the photo. The long term aim is to produce a page that shows just bulb photos (for comparison purposes). From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375571400.62324.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Lycoris squamigera and fritillaries Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 16:10:00 -0700 (PDT) While those of you on the west coast enjoy the blooming of Amaryllis belladonna, those of us in the east are enjoying the flowering of Lycoris squamigera. They started here about three days ago. So far it's the only one blooming here.  I began to check fritillary bulbs today: what a pleasure it is to turn out a pot and find all of those little offset bulbs clustered around a big fat bulb. I've decided that frits are the guppies of the bulb hobby. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From vc2m@mac.com Sat, 03 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <2988476D-3EE2-4128-993F-BAF8E68AF498@mac.com> From: VIJAY CHANDHOK Subject: Lycoris squamigera and fritillaries Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 20:15:30 -0400 I have about four of them out today in Pittsburgh Vijay Sent from my iPad On Aug 3, 2013, at 7:10 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > While those of you on the west coast enjoy the blooming of Amaryllis belladonna, those of us in the east are enjoying the flowering of Lycoris squamigera. They started here about three days ago. So far it's the only one blooming here. > > I began to check fritillary bulbs today: what a pleasure it is to turn out a pot and find all of those little offset bulbs clustered around a big fat bulb. I've decided that frits are the guppies of the bulb hobby. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Lycoris squamigera and fritillaries Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2013 18:27:05 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote, >I began to check fritillary bulbs today: what a pleasure it is to >turn out a pot and find all of those little offset bulbs clustered >around a big fat bulb. I've decided that frits are the guppies of >the bulb hobby. I wish they were! Although some species produce many offsets, or scales that can be separated for increase, some almost never offset. That's why you don't see their bulbs in commerce, at least not for low prices. For instance, I have never known Fritillaria arriana to offset, or the closely related F. gibbosa either, and another of their relatives, F. stenanthera, does so only perhaps every ten years. In contrast, F. carica, F. acmopetala, and some others do increase very fast, and F. meleagris will self-sow readily in the garden. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 03 Aug 2013 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1375590727.16824.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Iris dichotoma and Lycoris squamigera Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2013 21:32:07 -0700 (PDT) I forgot to mention that while working in my little garden up on the hill (a community garden plot - that's where I grow plant which do better with lots of sun) I had a nice surprise. As I began to wind down for the day at about 5 P.M. I looked around and saw that the vesper irises were open. The plants in the home garden are maybe eighteen inches high when they bloom. The plants up on the hill are nearly 4' high with plenty of blossoms and buds and are clumping nicely. There are two big clumps, the larger of which sports an airy cloud of bloom and bud nearly a yard across.  Each year I remind myself to plant the vesper iris with the lycorises: their colors harmonize nicely. I have not done this yet, mostly because I'm reluctant to move blooming plants of the lycoris, and they grow in a place too shady for the iris to be its best.  But if I were planning a new garden, this is one combination for which I would make room.  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7  From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 04 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Lycoris squamigera and fritillaries Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 19:05:29 +0100 I believe that this depends on the form or clone, at least for stenanthera. I have a clone of F stenanthera which certainly does offset, though I have several others which do not! I agree in general however, that many frits are slow to increase vegetatively. These which Jane mentions are a distinct section of Fritillaria, there are other fritillarias which are also very slow to offset, or else don't. Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 2:27 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > some almost never offset. > That's why you don't see their bulbs in commerce, at least not for > low prices. For instance, I have never known Fritillaria arriana to > offset, or the closely related F. gibbosa either, and another of > their relatives, F. stenanthera, does so only perhaps every ten > years. > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sun, 04 Aug 2013 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <008401ce9141$cbe30e40$63a92ac0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dry Stall and/or Pumice Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 13:38:12 -0500 Hello- I am trying to find more pumice; I'm out of my current supply. I bought a skid of it last time; it was transported across the country - so I'm sure I didn't pay the best price possible. I have tried contacting the Dry Stall folks several times to find a dealer within 200 miles of me; but they haven't responded. I am curious if anyone is using Dry Stall? If yes, what is your price per bag, how many pounds per bag and how many bags do you buy at a time? In case here are price points for buying more bags. I would like to compare it to what I purchased last time to see if I should just give up or continue to pursue Dry Stall. I am located in NW IL, and am in the wrong part of the US to find it easily. Thanks, Lisa From plantnut@cox.net Sun, 04 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Dry Stall and/or Pumice Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 12:30:44 -0700 I buy my dry stall at a local Tack and feed store here. But they have become expensive. I also have tried contacting the dry stall company on numerous occasions and they never respond. Joe, San Diego County. On Aug 4, 2013, at 11:38 AM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" wrote: > Hello- > > I am trying to find more pumice; I'm out of my current supply. I bought a > skid of it last time; it was transported across the country - so I'm sure I > didn't pay the best price possible. > > I have tried contacting the Dry Stall folks several times to find a dealer > within 200 miles of me; but they haven't responded. > > I am curious if anyone is using Dry Stall? If yes, what is your price per > bag, how many pounds per bag and how many bags do you buy at a time? In > case here are price points for buying more bags. > > I would like to compare it to what I purchased last time to see if I should > just give up or continue to pursue Dry Stall. > > I am located in NW IL, and am in the wrong part of the US to find it easily. > > Thanks, > Lisa > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <00bf01ce914f$94f57040$bee050c0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Dry Stall and/or Pumice Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 15:16:42 -0500 Thanks Joe. Whats your best guess on the $ of a bag & the weight? -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Joseph Kraatz Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2013 2:31 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Dry Stall and/or Pumice I buy my dry stall at a local Tack and feed store here. But they have become expensive. I also have tried contacting the dry stall company on numerous occasions and they never respond. Joe, San Diego County. On Aug 4, 2013, at 11:38 AM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" wrote: > Hello- > > I am trying to find more pumice; I'm out of my current supply. I > bought a skid of it last time; it was transported across the country - > so I'm sure I didn't pay the best price possible. > > I have tried contacting the Dry Stall folks several times to find a > dealer within 200 miles of me; but they haven't responded. > > I am curious if anyone is using Dry Stall? If yes, what is your price > per bag, how many pounds per bag and how many bags do you buy at a > time? In case here are price points for buying more bags. > > I would like to compare it to what I purchased last time to see if I > should just give up or continue to pursue Dry Stall. > > I am located in NW IL, and am in the wrong part of the US to find it easily. > > Thanks, > Lisa > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From eagle.85@verizon.net Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <446653F3-A328-4077-A80F-EBE2193CC0D3@verizon.net> From: douglas westfall Subject: Email address Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:08:16 -0700 Thanks to EVERYONE who sent Geof's email address to me. Doug Westfall From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 04 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Email address Date: Sun, 4 Aug 2013 22:11:01 +0100 If it doesnt work you can let me know, I can put you in touch Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 10:08 PM, douglas westfall wrote: > Thanks to EVERYONE who sent Geof's email address to me. > > Doug Westfall > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 06:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <66B89D7510D34348845897EB9234D8254F7E2F5332@MBX12.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Lycoris squamigera Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 13:12:13 +0000 Hello All, I have three forms of Lycoris (Squamigera, Sprengeri and Chinensis) that have popped out of the ground and should be flowering very shortly. We've had an incredibly hot and humid summer but with quite a bit of rain as well. Within the past two weeks, the weather has dried up a bit but also cooler. I'm thinking the cooler weather is what jump started the blooming. BTW I almost missed them due to the dang weeds that grew better than anything else I grow. Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA USDA Zone 6b -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Saturday, August 03, 2013 7:10 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Lycoris squamigera and fritillaries While those of you on the west coast enjoy the blooming of Amaryllis belladonna, those of us in the east are enjoying the flowering of Lycoris squamigera. They started here about three days ago. So far it's the only one blooming here.  I began to check fritillary bulbs today: what a pleasure it is to turn out a pot and find all of those little offset bulbs clustered around a big fat bulb. I've decided that frits are the guppies of the bulb hobby. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From leo@possi.org Mon, 05 Aug 2013 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <3a13626a9cc987e54813eddd3d843d88.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 07:35:17 -0700 (PDT) Hello All, My friend Doug Dawson visited the Republic of South Africa in May 2013. While he was primarily interested in succulents, he took photos of lots of other plants as well. Among them is an Oxalis, shown on the mystery bulbs page, with large, thick stems and tiny leaves. Does anybody know what it might be? http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <004201ce91fb$7180d350$548279f0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Dry Stall Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 09:47:14 -0700 Lisa wrote: > I am curious if anyone is using Dry Stall? If yes, what is your price per bag, how many pounds per bag and how many bags do you buy at a time I pay about $15 a sack, one sack at a time, and each sack weighs about 30 pounds. It's an expensive way to get pumice, but the advantage (for me) is that it's washed and graded as to size, so I can use it straight out of the bag. The bulk stuff at the garden center is full of fines. I get Dry Stall at a feed store. Mike San Jose, CA PS: A possible alternative, according to some of the bonsai-growing folks, is the product used for surfacing the infields of baseball fields. I don't know the name of it, but you should be able to find references to it by cruising the bonsai discussion forums and looking for soil mixes. I haven't tried it, but some of the bonsai folks swear by it. Since baseball is played everywhere in the US, it may be easier for you to buy this stuff. From plantnut@cox.net Mon, 05 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <079B5925-52C7-4FA4-94FA-0EB528CEBAA6@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Dry Stall Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 09:53:24 -0700 I did an internet search and found this company. Not sure this is the product though. Joe, San Diego County http://www.hksportsfields.com/products/ On Aug 5, 2013, at 9:47 AM, "Michael Mace" wrote: > Lisa wrote: > >> I am curious if anyone is using Dry Stall? If yes, what is your price per > bag, how many pounds per bag and how many bags do you buy at a time > > I pay about $15 a sack, one sack at a time, and each sack weighs about 30 > pounds. > > It's an expensive way to get pumice, but the advantage (for me) is that it's > washed and graded as to size, so I can use it straight out of the bag. The > bulk stuff at the garden center is full of fines. > > I get Dry Stall at a feed store. > > Mike > San Jose, CA > > PS: A possible alternative, according to some of the bonsai-growing folks, > is the product used for surfacing the infields of baseball fields. I don't > know the name of it, but you should be able to find references to it by > cruising the bonsai discussion forums and looking for soil mixes. I haven't > tried it, but some of the bonsai folks swear by it. > > Since baseball is played everywhere in the US, it may be easier for you to > buy this stuff. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Dry Stall Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 09:56:59 -0700 Hi everyone, The company that makes Dry Stall only do wholesale so don't expect an answer from them unless you want a train container full of the stuff. I know in places where pumice is not available such as Hawaii (it's a volcanic island but the wrong type of volcano), growers of cacti and succulents put money together to ship whole containers of pumice across the pacific. It's not cheap but for those growing xeric plants in moist climates, they can't be beat. Midwest growers can probably organize something like that. On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 9:47 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > PS: A possible alternative, according to some of the bonsai-growing folks, > is the product used for surfacing the infields of baseball fields. > Mike, the produce you're thinking of is Turface. It's well-fired clay bits that does seem to drain well. I have never used it myself though. Nhu From bbniemann@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51FFDBE3.7020304@gmail.com> From: Barb Niemann Subject: Dry Stall Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2013 12:07:47 -0500 Hi Lisa, Not sure what exactly you want the pumice for but I will throw out a couple other options that might work and are easy to get in our area. Have you tried the pea gravel sized lava rock that is sold at Ted's Greenhouse? It is very similar to pumice. I use this for all of my succulents and mixed into the media I use for my bulbs. I have even used it in a S/H set up to root some stubborn haworthias. For my more delicate succulents like my pseudolithos and stapeliads I also add NAPA #8822 to the mix. I am quite happy with this and it is relatively cheap and easy to obtain at any NAPA store. It looks somewhat comparable size wise to the pictures of dry stall I see online but the NAPA is a bit finer. I wish pumice was easy to get around here! Hope that was helpful, Barb (from CSSGC) From eez55@earthlink.net Mon, 05 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <4200855.1375722949024.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Eugene Zielinski Subject: Dry Stall Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 10:15:48 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Mike is talking about Turface, which I know was fairly easy to find in Augusta, GA, where I used to live. I'd recommend Turface MVP which seems to have a larger and more uniform particle size (i.e. fewer fines) than "regular" Turface. If I remember correctly, I paid about $10 for a 50 pound bag. Turface is available through certain dealerships. Check their website. I haven't seen Dry Stall, but horticultural pumice seems to have a larger particle size than Turface MVP. -----Original Message----- >From: Michael Mace > >I get Dry Stall at a feed store. > >Mike >San Jose, CA > >PS: A possible alternative, according to some of the bonsai-growing folks, >is the product used for surfacing the infields of baseball fields. I don't >know the name of it, but you should be able to find references to it by >cruising the bonsai discussion forums and looking for soil mixes. I haven't >tried it, but some of the bonsai folks swear by it. > >Since baseball is played everywhere in the US, it may be easier for you to >buy this stuff. > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Mon, 05 Aug 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <410-22013815171828500@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Dry Stall and/or Pumice Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 13:18:28 -0400 You might want to consider Stalite/expanded shale/Permatil/Voleblock should pumice prove to be unobtainable in your area. I have found it better than Turface in our applications. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USDA 8 From hoperv@yahoo.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375732219.85102.YahooMailNeo@web161702.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: posting Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 12:50:19 -0700 (PDT) Hi-   Am I setup to post messages?   Russ From hoperv@yahoo.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375732635.41877.YahooMailNeo@web161706.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: poting media Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 12:57:15 -0700 (PDT) H This is my first post.  I was wondering if Dry Stall is the same are pumice and dolomite?  A friend uses dry stall and he said it did not float like pumice.  I just bought a big bag for just $9.95.  Any way I am new to bulbs, particular Africa bulbs.  I know everybody as a mix of their own.  Can anybody suggest a good general mix?  Russ From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <520003A5.2080207@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: posting Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 07:57:25 +1200 Yes, Russ, you must be as your message just came through. Ina ;o) On 6/08/2013 7:50 a.m., Russ Varnado wrote: > Hi- > > Am I setup to post messages? > > Russ > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: poting media Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 22:13:50 +0100 what climate do you garden in Russ, and what type of bulbs interest you? dolomite is magnesium carbonate, I am not sure what the composition of pumice is.... Peter (UK) On Mon, Aug 5, 2013 at 8:57 PM, Russ Varnado wrote: > I was wondering if Dry Stall is the same are pumice and dolomite? A > friend uses dry stall and he said it did not float like pumice. I just > bought a big bag for just $9.95. Any way I am new to bulbs, particular > Africa bulbs. I know everybody as a mix of their own. Can anybody suggest > a good general mix? Russ > From eciton@alumni.utexas.net Tue, 06 Aug 2013 05:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: potting media Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 17:29:39 -0500 I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than importing a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my potting ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: 1 part pumice (DryStall), 1 part sand, 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure Turface), 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have their own brands of the same thing), 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop of a mix of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic fungicide, granular imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in big plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this base to tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal bowls from a restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this and that as I go. The objective of this potting "personalization" is to have a healthy collection of plants that can all be watered at the same time no matter where they are from. It takes no special knowledge about the plants to water them, my house-sitter can do it, or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water dormancy, it is moved into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system has created a surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free vacations, and the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS BX/SX is one beneficiary. m From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <87162D61-FC6A-4093-9394-03DD6B28BCB7@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: posting Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 08:35:11 +1000 The radio waves are loud & clear hear in Australia Russ Steven : ) On 06/08/2013, at 5:57 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Yes, Russ, you must be as your message just came through. > > Ina ;o) > On 6/08/2013 7:50 a.m., Russ Varnado wrote: >> Hi- >> >> Am I setup to post messages? >> >> Russ >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8D0605411895392-EC0-3107D@webmail-m164.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 20:36:04 -0400 (EDT) No idea what Oxalis that is, it is certainly odd in that it appears the petioles might function as spines when the leaflets drop, it has a very odd growth form for a South African oxalis species. Sort of reminds me of Pelargonium spinosum. Ernie DeMarie Briarcliff Manor, NY -----Original Message----- From: Leo A. Martin To: pbs Cc: dawsonlithops Sent: Mon, Aug 5, 2013 1:22 pm Subject: [pbs] Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Hello All, My friend Doug Dawson visited the Republic of South Africa in May 2013. While he was primarily interested in succulents, he took photos of lots of other plants as well. Among them is an Oxalis, shown on the mystery bulbs page, with large, thick stems and tiny leaves. Does anybody know what it might be? http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From othonna@gmail.com Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 18:05:42 -0700 Maybe O. livida? * * From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <52004D1E.70908@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2013 18:10:54 -0700 It looks like O. knuthiana which Salter describes as tall, 20-30cm and having branched succulent stems. It is from Namaqualand. Does that fit? It definitely isn't O. livida, which isn't succulent. Diana Telos > Hello All, > > My friend Doug Dawson visited the Republic of South Africa in May 2013. While he was > primarily interested in succulents, he took photos of lots of other plants as well. > Among them is an Oxalis, shown on the mystery bulbs page, with large, thick stems and > tiny leaves. Does anybody know what it might be? > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 05 Aug 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375753085.5011.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Mystery Hymenocallis Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2013 18:38:05 -0700 (PDT) Nicky Ross's Hymenocallis looks like H. × festalis to me.  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From leo@possi.org Tue, 06 Aug 2013 03:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1d1c73556a4f5c10e98a120fed1b0901.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Mystery Oxalis - Garies, RSA Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2013 02:18:17 -0700 (PDT) > It looks like O. knuthiana which Salter describes as tall, 20-30cm and > having branched succulent stems. It is from Namaqualand. Does that fit? It definitely > isn't O. livida, which isn't succulent. Thanks, Diana. I'll pass this along to Doug. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From bbniemann@gmail.com Tue, 06 Aug 2013 10:18:25 -0700 Message-Id: <52012500.5000506@gmail.com> From: Barb Niemann Subject: potting media Date: Tue, 06 Aug 2013 11:32:00 -0500 "1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have their own brands of the same thing)" Just a quick note about floor dry/oil dry products, each brand is a little different and if buying brands other than NAPA make sure that you determine what the product is made out of before you start using it. Some brands are similar to cat litter and when wet they break down and create a thick silt. Best to read the product labels carefully and soak the product in water for a couple days to see how it acts before using it in your plants. Barb From jay.yourch@gmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Crinum 'Kim Maureen' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 16:50:38 -0400 I have now named the Crinum hybrid which flowered for the first time last month. Its name is 'Kim Maureen', after my lovely wife. Here's the new link to its wiki entry: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#KimMaureen Higher resolution photos can be found here: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117146306040106658755/albums/5901027107335482017 Regards, Jay From jay.yourch@gmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' x C. 'Southern Cross' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 16:56:44 -0400 Hi all, I also had another large flowered Crinum hybrid flower for the first time last week. If you're interested in photos, here's a wiki link: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#LadyChameleonXSouthernCross Regards, Jay From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 07 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375909990.9201.YahooMailNeo@web84504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' x C. 'Southern Cross' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 14:13:10 -0700 (PDT) Jay, both of those are really beautiful. How long does each flower last? How long before the entire inflorescence is bloomed out? And do they repeat throughout the season?  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Crinum 'Kim Maureen' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 15:37:28 -0700 That's really fantastic, Jay! It's a great substitute for Amaryllis belladonna hybrids for warmer climates. How's the scent? Nhu On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Jay Yourch wrote: > I have now named the Crinum hybrid which flowered for the first time last > month. Its name is 'Kim Maureen', after my lovely wife. > From jay.yourch@gmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Crinum 'Kim Maureen' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 20:53:04 -0400 Thanks, Nhu. It is strongly fragrant, a combination of sweet and spicy. On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 6:37 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > That's really fantastic, Jay! It's a great substitute for Amaryllis > belladonna hybrids for warmer climates. How's the scent? > > Nhu > > On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 1:50 PM, Jay Yourch wrote: > > > I have now named the Crinum hybrid which flowered for the first time last > > month. Its name is 'Kim Maureen', after my lovely wife. > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jay.yourch@gmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 19:17:34 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' x C. 'Southern Cross' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 21:37:20 -0400 Thanks, Jim. The flowers of 'Kim Maureen' last for 3 evenings and 3 mornings (60 hours), by the 4th afternoon they wilt. There are 12 buds per scape, each inflorescence lasts a week, peaking on the second evening and maintaining peak though the fifth evening. It's hard to say about repeating, the bulb is very young at only 4 years old and it made 5 scapes simultaneously for its debut, and then 2 more scapes 3 weeks later. 'Kim Maureen' has another feature, tidy, rigid foliage. Here's a photo of it I took after Hurricane Irene passed to our east, every other Crinum was broken by the heavy wind and rain, but 'Kim Maureen' was flawless. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5539378/IMG_1699.JPG The other plant, C. 'Lady Chameleon' x C. 'Southern Cross', is even younger, only 3 years old, so any scape, even a single one, is unexpected. Each flower lasted about 60 hours, but the bud count was lower, so the inflorescence didn't last as long. I don't know what it will in following years, but Crinums almost always improve with maturity. Jay On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 5:13 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Jay, both of those are really beautiful. > > How long does each flower last? How long before the entire inflorescence > is bloomed out? And do they repeat throughout the season? > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 07 Aug 2013 19:17:34 -0700 Message-Id: <1375926456.57019.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' x C. 'Southern Cross' Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2013 18:47:36 -0700 (PDT) Thanks, Jay, that's just what I wanted to know. I have so little space left in the home garden that when the time comes to get a good, modern crinun, I want it to be a very good one. 'Kim Maureen' looks well worth having.  Jim McKenney  Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From avbeek1@hotmail.com Wed, 07 Aug 2013 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northern climate. Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 02:30:33 +0000 My garden is paved. So it is not possible to plant the crinums in fall of the second year at 6 in deep in the ground. So what would be a good size of the pot and how deep should I plant the bulb in 2, 3 ... years. Is it advantious to use tall pots like palm pots? Aad van Beek > From: jwaddick@kc.rr.com > Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 14:10:11 -0500 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northern climate. > > Dear Friends, > > This may be a repeat for many, but it seems to come up again and again. I sent a pound of seed to Dell recently and this works for most hardy crinum seed more or less. There are some variables. > > Fresh Crinum seed is large, green and fleshy. Big seed can be an inch across, smaller see seed pea size. They do not have a long shelf life and should be planted right away. The initial planting medium is not very important, but I use a commercial potting mix -sometimes add some sand. > > Use a good size pot - 1 or more seed per pot. 3 seeds in in 5 in pot seems right. Fill to an inch of the top. > > Press the seed into the soil, but allow at least 1/2 exposed to light. Water well and keep slightly damp. Do not allow to become dry, dry. > > Seeds germinate within days to a week or two. The primary root will emerge and turn into the soil where it will form a small bulb and foliage will emerge. > > Seedlings will look like a small scallion. In northern climates (Zone 5/6) these will probably NOT survive a normal winter down to 0 or +5 F. Seedling pots should be kept frost free. If given light and water they will grow slowly all winter even at low/above freezing temps. If kept cool and dark with some water they will sit dormant until spring. > > First spring I keep them well watered and fertilized in their seedling pot until late summer/ early fall. By fall seeedlings should be more typical scallion size -diameter of a pencil. These can be planted out as deep as possible - 5 or 6 in to base of bulb. And mulched well over winter. > > 2nd spring, they should really put on growth. Bulbs will pull themselves deeper and can easily triple in size. That winter a little mulch protection will help. > > 3rd spring they could have first bloom or repeat pattern of 2nd spring, getting bigger. > > Once established they need a little winter protection, but depends on exact exposure ( full sun recommended). Bloom gets bigger and bigger. Multiple flower spikes etc. Of course there are many specific site variables and each species or cv may also vary somewhat. > > Hardy Crinums once established are relatively trouble free and will produce large flowers on tall spikes in the heat of summer when little else is blooming in northern gardens. I urge all northern gardeners to give them a try. Some species are far hardier than the literature suggest and are very satisfying garden subjects. > > In my Kansas City garden I grow over a dozen different species, selections and hybrids and keep finding more with hardiness potential. Grow for it!! > > Good Luck Jim W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From barkingdogwoods@gmail.com Thu, 08 Aug 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <03dd01ce9433$2fb447b0$8f1cd710$@com> From: "Lin" Subject: Crinum 'Kim Maureen' Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 07:31:18 -0500 'Kim Maureen' is gorgeous! I love that she has a great fragrance, and also that outstanding foliage. Well done, Jay, and what a tribute to your wife! Lin Grado Texas -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jay Yourch Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2013 3:51 PM To: PBS Subject: [pbs] Crinum 'Kim Maureen' I have now named the Crinum hybrid which flowered for the first time last month. Its name is 'Kim Maureen', after my lovely wife. Here's the new link to its wiki entry: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#Kim Maureen Higher resolution photos can be found here: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117146306040106658755/albums/590102710733 5482017 Regards, Jay From TalkingPoints@PlantSoup.Com Thu, 08 Aug 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nan Sterman Subject: potting media Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 08:38:30 -0700 FAscinating. What characteristics are you looking for, Barb? On Aug 6, 2013, at 9:32 AM, Barb Niemann wrote: > "1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have > their own brands of the same thing)" > > Just a quick note about floor dry/oil dry products, each brand is a > little different and if buying brands other than NAPA make sure that you > determine what the product is made out of before you start using it. > Some brands are similar to cat litter and when wet they break down and > create a thick silt. Best to read the product labels carefully and soak > the product in water for a couple days to see how it acts before using > it in your plants. > > Barb > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From leo@possi.org Thu, 08 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 17:48:42 -0700 (PDT) Aad asked about what size container to use for Crinum bulbispermum in a garden that is entirely paved. I have planted Crinum in containers up to 24" / 61cm diameter and tall. I have never had one in a container bloom. They don't even grow very big in such a container whereas they grow like weeds in the ground. What are other people's experiences? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From randysgarden@gmail.com Thu, 08 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Thu, 8 Aug 2013 17:58:57 -0700 I had Crinum bulbispermum planted 3 to a 5 gallon container,planted two years from seed, for at least 5 years. I finally moved them up to one per 5 gallon container and they bloomed the next year. This was in Northern California, central coast zone 9. On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 5:48 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Aad asked about what size container to use for Crinum bulbispermum in a > garden that is > entirely paved. > > I have planted Crinum in containers up to 24" / 61cm diameter and tall. I > have never had > one in a container bloom. > > They don't even grow very big in such a container whereas they grow like > weeds in the > ground. What are other people's experiences? > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- * * * * From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 01:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376035278.44219.YahooMailNeo@web186004.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 09:01:18 +0100 (BST) I have had Crinum, x powelli presumably, clumps in largish pots for many years. 10" round or 12" square, normal depth, and they bloom every year with minimal feeding. The central bulb(s) which are more exposed always seem to bloom first, the side offsets which are large enough, bloom a couple of weeks later. Mine are stored in a frost free greenhouse over winter, but will survive in gardens with minimal protection from a wall etc. Mine are inevitably less vigorous than those in a local garden and less impressive when out of flower, which is most of the year of course. I have 2 - 4 flower stems in each pot normally. The first stem is just going over now.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 >________________________________ >Aad asked about what size container to use for Crinum bulbispermum in a garden that is >entirely paved. > >I have planted Crinum in containers up to 24" / 61cm diameter and tall. I have never had >one in a container bloom. > >They don't even grow very big in such a container whereas they grow like weeds in the >ground. What are other people's experiences? > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <003f01ce94fb$ca369540$5ea3bfc0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: potting media/dry stall Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 07:27:11 -0500 Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. If it wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each component's purpose? I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and to reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how much of each item on your minor mix? For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local Farm & Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I will start making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and adding to it. Same as you; I vary the components based on the individual needs of the plant to be potted. Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized how expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a better mix myself at a lower cost. Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Monica Swartz Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than importing a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my potting ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: 1 part pumice (DryStall), 1 part sand, 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure Turface), 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have their own brands of the same thing), 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop of a mix of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic fungicide, granular imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in big plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this base to tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal bowls from a restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this and that as I go. The objective of this potting "personalization" is to have a healthy collection of plants that can all be watered at the same time no matter where they are from. It takes no special knowledge about the plants to water them, my house-sitter can do it, or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water dormancy, it is moved into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system has created a surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free vacations, and the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS BX/SX is one beneficiary. m From jshields@indy.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130809082341.030a9a18@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 08:30:17 -0400 It is definitely possible to get Crinums to flower in containers, but it may not be easy. In Leo's case, I am guessing that in Phoenix, Arizona, you just cannot keep them with enough water to meet their growing needs. Small Crinum grow and bloom in 1- or 2-gallon pots. Some, such as carlo-schmidtii, seem to need extra water to bloom. C. walteri and C. razafindratsiraea will bloom in 1-gal. and 2-gal pots respectively. I grow other crinums in 5-gallon and a few in 7-gallon pots. Some bloom, some do not. You need regular watering in the big pots. I use drip lines to each pot, with the 5-gal and 7-gal getting at least 2 drip-lines per pot. You also have to feed rather heavily. Neglect the feeding and the next year you may not see any flowers. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 07:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5204F154.5000003@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 06:40:36 -0700 All my Crinums bloom, but I grow them in five gallon pots all put in large kiddie wading pools, which I then fill to about four or five inches of water with the fertilizer dissolved in the water. Before I put them in the wading pools I simply could not keep the pots moist enough. In winter I let them go dry, which is usually when I repot. As soon as I fill the wading pools in spring they all bloom within about a week. Diana Telos > It is definitely possible to get Crinums to flower in containers, but it > may not be easy. In Leo's case, I am guessing that in Phoenix, Arizona, > you just cannot keep them with enough water to meet their growing needs. > > Small Crinum grow and bloom in 1- or 2-gallon pots. Some, such as > carlo-schmidtii, seem to need extra water to bloom. C. walteri and C. > razafindratsiraea will bloom in 1-gal. and 2-gal pots respectively. I grow > other crinums in 5-gallon and a few in 7-gallon pots. Some bloom, some do not. > > You need regular watering in the big pots. I use drip lines to each pot, > with the 5-gal and 7-gal getting at least 2 drip-lines per pot. > > You also have to feed rather heavily. Neglect the feeding and the next > year you may not see any flowers. > > Jim Shields > > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From missinghenrymitchell@gmail.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Amy Hill Subject: Seeking seeds/bulbs for Nemastylis geminiflora Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 11:15:43 -0400 Hi, I am seeking a source for seeds or bulbs of *Nemastylis geminiflora*. I saw that members of this group at one time grew the plant. Can anyone please point me to a commercial source for this plant (my Internet searches have turned up only one or two sketchy sources)? Or if you have seeds or bulbs you'd be willing to sell/swap/save for me, will you contact me directly at this email address? I have contacted the LBJ Wildflower Center about their source for plants, but haven't heard anything yet. I live in North Carolina, zone 7B. Thanks for any advice you can provide, Amy From office@westlandsranch.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <56B2DB4277566846A23011A0701E445E457A2FE741@winxbeus22.exchange.xchg> From: Sandra Rick Subject: Mariposa Lily Bulbs Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 13:44:47 -0400 Trying to find bulbs for Mariposa Lilies (Calochortus leichtlinii). They are white flowers with black centers. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Sandy From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <006901ce952d$df501f00$9df05d00$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 11:25:46 -0700 I agree with Lisa, this is a very interesting discussion. Thanks to everyone who has been contributing to it. I wanted to comment on one thing... >> I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and to reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? This reminded me of something I saw from an experienced grower years ago, which has made more and more sense to me as I've experimented with various potting mixes. This was the idea that in creating a potting mix, you're looking to incorporate a variety of particle sizes. If the particles in your mix are all small, air can't get in and things rot. If the particles are all big, the mix dries out too quickly. There seems to be a magical balance of drainage and moistness that happens when you get the right mix of sizes. So the answer to the sand question might be that it's giving you some smaller particles to complement the relatively large particles of pumice. It also seems to help if you have a good balance between things that act like sponges (materials like peat and compost) and things that do not absorb water (sand, gravel, etc). For example, if you look at UC Davis's recommended potting mix, it is equal parts water-absorbing small particles (peat),water-absorbing large particles (redwood compost), water-repelling small particles (sand), and water-repelling large particles (pumice). Most of the other successful potting mixes I've heard about seem to have that kind of rhythm to them, even though the ingredients and proportions vary. This helps to explain why some of us (including me) have been snake-bit when using potting ingredients that had a lot of fines in them. I used perlite in a mix because I thought it would give me large water-repelling particles. But the perlite was full of fines (small particles), so my mix ended up too dense and things rotted. Lesson: the condition of the materials you use is just as important as the materials themselves. The balance you hit among your potting ingredients interacts with your other growing conditions: how humid is the air, how much sun do your pots get, what's the average air temperature, are you growing in plastic or clay pots, how big are the pots, etc. Because of the complex interactions between all of these things, I think it's impossible to define the ideal growing mix for all bulb-growers in all areas. You need to experiment and see what works in your conditions. But the discussion of potting mixes is still very helpful to me because it gives me ideas on things to try, and potential explanations when something doesn't work. Mike San Jose, CA From rherold@yahoo.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <52053AF2.1010807@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 14:54:42 -0400 Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of potting mixes from 2007: Potting Mixes & Drainage Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this thread. If it's good enough for Wisley... --Roy A rainy day in Boston From ds429@comcast.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <922870908.2136956.1376076196881.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 19:23:16 +0000 (UTC) I grow most of my crinums in containers so I can bring them inside for a protected dormancy in the winter. Most of the ones in containers that are about 18 in x 18 in,  bloom each year, but not profusely. I believe that the bigger the container, the better the performance. I also sunk the pots in a trench in the garden where they got lots of water, in the summer months - even some flooding. Crinums are heavy feeders, rather like my wife. Dell, zone 6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Leo A. Martin" To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2013 8:48:42 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum in containers (was C. bulbispermum....) Aad asked about what size container to use for Crinum bulbispermum in a garden that is entirely paved. I have planted Crinum in containers up to 24" / 61cm diameter and tall. I have never had one in a container bloom. They don't even grow very big in such a container whereas they grow like weeds in the ground. What are other people's experiences? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From aoleary@esc.net.au Fri, 09 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <004501ce9538$7ddb8a10$79929e30$@esc.net.au> From: "Alan O'Leary" Subject: potting media Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 05:11:48 +0930 Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. Alan, Adelaide, South Australia -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Roy Herold Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of potting mixes from 2007: Potting Mixes & Drainage Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this thread. If it's good enough for Wisley... --Roy A rainy day in Boston ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 From othonna@gmail.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 12:48:14 -0700 Agreed with Michael's comments here, especially particle sizes. The "magic" formula always has the right proportion of particle sizes and proportion of organic to inorganic materials. I mix small batches by hand and so there are inconsistencies but these allow observations of what works over a wide range of plants. Uniformity, like efficiency, should not overshadow other important considerations. I would add that a major factor is the watering habits of the grower. I know extremely good cactus growers whose mix may be fine and silty (with bottom tray watering) or only pure, coarse pumice (particles about 7-12mm diam). For the former grower the soil becomes *very* dry between waterings while the latter, owing to vagaries of nursery staff, are watered regularly, to an extent that would induce many fatalities for most other growers. Both of these growers are in an ideal cactus growing climate. Mixes with significant % of fines should be allowed to dry more thoroughly between waterings and if carefully managed this can be a real advantage-- less labor watering. I have recently grown fond of a product called "play sand" that is quite fine (around grade 25-30) but very clean. It looks like silica sand but (one hopes) without the particulate hazards. Mixed with 2/3 or more pumice and some organics it looks like it may be a good fit for many of my plants. What goes on during dormancy is important also. I find sand to be a good insulator for dormant bulbs and those with live roots go unwatered for 4-5 months minimum, with plenty of hot daytime temps. In a too coarse mix they would suffer desiccation at the roots, unless the roots are very thick. This brings up a final point: fine textured mixes are better suited to plants with fine roots (e.g., Crassulaceae, mesembs, some irids). Coarse mixes with more large particles (and some fines!) bring better results for amaryllids. Dylan * * From savita@pfpros.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Savita Wilder Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 14:15:44 -0700 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Alan O'Leary Date: 08/09/2013 12:41 PM (GMT-08:00) To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. Alan, Adelaide, South Australia -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Roy Herold Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of potting mixes from 2007: Potting Mixes & Drainage Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this thread. If it's good enough for Wisley... --Roy A rainy day in Boston ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 From plantnut@cox.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 14:48:39 -0700 I get a message that the page is no longer available. Joe On Aug 9, 2013, at 2:15 PM, Savita Wilder wrote: > > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Alan O'Leary > Date: 08/09/2013 12:41 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media > > Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. > Alan, Adelaide, South Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Roy Herold > Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media > > Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of > potting mixes from 2007: > > Potting Mixes & Drainage > Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) > > 4t8eiv6.html> > > This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this > thread. > > If it's good enough for Wisley... > > --Roy > A rainy day in Boston > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ceridwen@internode.on.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <54975575-80ED-4E5A-9AFD-0E5D5CB5A1B7@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 07:18:52 +0930 Hi all, Forgive me if this has already been discussed (I haven't yet had time to read all messages in this thread) - what do you use as a soil mixer? (The commercial nursery ones look excellent but I suspect my husband would protest.) Shovelling into a wheelbarrow is ok but slow and hard on my weedy old shoulders. An ODJOB or sealed bucket type looks too heavy to lift if it were of any useful size, so I was wondering whether a conventional cement mixer would do the trick? I am leaning more and more toward mixing my own after finding all kinds of crud in commercial mix (half inch chunks of laminated particle board, various plastics, etc) which also grows an evil-smelling mould on top of it when in a lidded container, which I'm in no mood to inhale...another thread no doubt) Cheers Ceridwen (Just potted up Alophia lahue from FIRST EVER seed received, yay) Sent from my iPhone On 09/08/2013, at 9:57 PM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" wrote: > Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. > > I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. If it > wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each component's > purpose? > > I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and to > reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? > > How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how much of > each item on your minor mix? > > For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local Farm & > Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. > > As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I will start > making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and adding to it. Same > as you; I vary the components based on the individual needs of the plant to > be potted. > > Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized how > expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a better mix > myself at a lower cost. > > Best regards, Lisa > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Monica Swartz > Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media > > I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than importing > a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my potting > ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: > 1 part pumice (DryStall), > 1 part sand, > 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure > Turface), > 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have > their own brands of the same thing), > 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). > This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop of a mix > of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, bone meal, blood > meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic fungicide, granular > imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. > It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in big > plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this base to > tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal bowls from a > restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this and that as I go. The > objective of this potting "personalization" is to have a healthy collection > of plants that can all be watered at the same time no matter where they are > from. It takes no special knowledge about the plants to water them, my > house-sitter can do it, or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water > dormancy, it is moved into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system > has created a surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free > vacations, and the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS > BX/SX is one beneficiary. > m > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ceridwen@internode.on.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: potting media : article unlocatable Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 07:25:34 +0930 (Also whoops and sorry Monica and all, I will go on the scrounge for a cement mixer) The link goes to Biblio "article not found" - is it available elsewhere? Ta Sent from my iPhone On 10/08/2013, at 6:45 AM, Savita Wilder wrote: > > > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Alan O'Leary > Date: 08/09/2013 12:41 PM (GMT-08:00) > To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media > > Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. > Alan, Adelaide, South Australia > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Roy Herold > Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media > > Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of > potting mixes from 2007: > > Potting Mixes & Drainage > Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) > > 4t8eiv6.html> > > This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this > thread. > > If it's good enough for Wisley... > > --Roy > A rainy day in Boston > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From administrator@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 09 Aug 2013 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Administrator User Subject: potting media Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 22:13:56 +0000 Hi, >I get a message that the page is no longer available. Joe Try: http://tinyurl.com/lppfstp The full URL is correct http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2007-February/v42msft361un0q238ci4t8eiv6.html Mailers split lines - glue them back together by hand. David Pilling From greg@alpacamanagement.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <866E947D671C4CF395794E9929EA1EEA@greg32d9eee6c2> From: "Greg Ruckert" Subject: potting media : article unlocatable Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 07:46:09 +0930 You need to make sure you have the whole address which is broken over two lines. Greg Ruckert Nairne, South Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ceridwen Lloyd" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Cc: Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 7:25 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media : article unlocatable > (Also whoops and sorry Monica and all, I will go on the scrounge for a > cement mixer) > The link goes to Biblio "article not found" - is it available elsewhere? > Ta > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 10/08/2013, at 6:45 AM, Savita Wilder wrote: > >> >> >> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone >> >> -------- Original message -------- >> From: Alan O'Leary >> Date: 08/09/2013 12:41 PM (GMT-08:00) >> To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >> >> Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. >> Alan, Adelaide, South Australia >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >> On Behalf Of Roy Herold >> Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >> >> Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of >> potting mixes from 2007: >> >> Potting Mixes & Drainage >> Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) >> >> > 4t8eiv6.html> >> >> This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this >> thread. >> >> If it's good enough for Wisley... >> >> --Roy >> A rainy day in Boston >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 09 Aug 2013 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <00fa01ce9550$e0e06e10$a2a14a30$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Mariposa lily bulbs Date: Fri, 9 Aug 2013 15:36:22 -0700 Sandy asked: > Trying to find bulbs for Mariposa Lilies (Calochortus leichtlinii). You can search here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources I did a quick check and it looks like there are currently sources for seed but not bulbs... Mike San Jose From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Source for Scadoxus katharinae Date: Fri, 09 Aug 2013 16:31:56 -0700 The following inquiry came via the PBS website. Please contact Dr. Bajer privately if you know of a source for this plant, which was formerly in the genus Haemanthus. He writes that he has published on the genus: Google Bajer Scadoxus mitosis. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:availability of bulbs >From: "Andrew S.Bajer" >X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >X-ELNK-AV: 0 >X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. I would like >to get an address where I can get bulbs of: Scadoxus katharinae ssp >multiflorus sometimes known as Scadoxus multiflorus ssp. katharinae. >Thank you for your help. A. S. Bajer DSc. -- Pacific Bulb Society >web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From ceridwen@internode.on.net Fri, 09 Aug 2013 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <3C7F5D33-4158-4A94-9182-E8AB10E2BC34@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: potting media : article unlocatable Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 11:19:01 +0930 Cheers - found it Sent from my iPhone On 10/08/2013, at 7:46 AM, "Greg Ruckert" wrote: > You need to make sure you have the whole address which is broken over two > lines. > Greg Ruckert > Nairne, > South Australia > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ceridwen Lloyd" > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, August 10, 2013 7:25 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media : article unlocatable > > >> (Also whoops and sorry Monica and all, I will go on the scrounge for a >> cement mixer) >> The link goes to Biblio "article not found" - is it available elsewhere? >> Ta >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 10/08/2013, at 6:45 AM, Savita Wilder wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone >>> >>> -------- Original message -------- >>> From: Alan O'Leary >>> Date: 08/09/2013 12:41 PM (GMT-08:00) >>> To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >>> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >>> >>> Great advice Roy. I keep going back to that excellent article. >>> Alan, Adelaide, South Australia >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >>> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >>> On Behalf Of Roy Herold >>> Sent: Saturday, 10 August 2013 4:25 AM >>> To: Pacific Bulb Society >>> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >>> >>> Everyone should go back and read Paul Cumbleton's excellent discussion of >>> potting mixes from 2007: >>> >>> Potting Mixes & Drainage >>> Paul Cumbleton (Thu, 22 Feb 2007 10:23:30 PST) >>> >>> >> 4t8eiv6.html> >>> >>> This goes a long way towards answering a lot of the questions in this >>> thread. >>> >>> If it's good enough for Wisley... >>> >>> --Roy >>> A rainy day in Boston >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> >>> ----- >>> No virus found in this message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> Version: 2013.0.3392 / Virus Database: 3209/6562 - Release Date: 08/08/13 >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From prallen2@peoplepc.com Sat, 10 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1964959.1376166847176.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: patty allen Subject: Mariposa lily bulbs Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 15:34:06 -0500 (GMT-05:00) I am one of those small specialty nurseries that offer rare and unusual bulbs that you don't find at the Big Box Stores. We offer crinums, rhodophialas , lycoris and other bulbs, rhizomes , tubers, etc. Patty Allen www.bayoucityheirloombulbs.com -----Original Message----- >From: Michael Mace >Sent: Aug 9, 2013 5:36 PM >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] Mariposa lily bulbs > >Sandy asked: > >> Trying to find bulbs for Mariposa Lilies (Calochortus leichtlinii). > >You can search here: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources > >I did a quick check and it looks like there are currently sources for seed >but not bulbs... > >Mike >San Jose > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hoperv@yahoo.com Sat, 10 Aug 2013 16:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <1376173129.70039.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: Louisiana Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 15:18:49 -0700 (PDT) Is anybody attempting to grow South African bulbs in Louisiana or other parts of the south? From prallen2@peoplepc.com Sat, 10 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <7779491.1376181822282.JavaMail.root@wamui-haziran.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: patty allen Subject: Louisiana Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 19:43:42 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Russ, I am growing a variety of Crinum species from South Africa. Patty Allen -----Original Message----- >From: Russ Varnado >Sent: Aug 10, 2013 5:18 PM >To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" >Subject: [pbs] Louisiana > >Is anybody attempting to grow South African bulbs in Louisiana or other parts of the south? >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Sat, 10 Aug 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <4363E2C1-3FCE-4C80-9EA9-CF976BD09D72@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Louisiana Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 21:50:28 -0500 : > Is anybody attempting to grow South African bulbs in Louisiana or other parts of the south? > _____ That's a very wide ranging topic. What part of Louisiana? In St Gabriel (just south of Baton Rouge) I'm growing several Eucomis spp and varieties. Species Gladiolus seem to be hit or miss but there are definitely ones that will thrive here. While not really a bulb, Kniphofia spp and hybrids can do very well here. Of course Agapathus are everywhere. The various forms of Gloriosa superba do quite well. Ledebouria are showing a lot of promise but I've tested them in pots outside over winter not in the ground yet (a few species are known to handle this climate well though ). Drimiopsis spp can do well here , especially maculata. I'm sure there is a very long list of others that could do well and an even longer list of those that won't. Our climate doesn't really match well with any of the SA areas so its just trial and error figuring out what will do here. Tim Chapman From maxwithers@gmail.com Sat, 10 Aug 2013 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Maxwithers Subject: Louisiana Date: Sat, 10 Aug 2013 23:24:21 -0500 I recently moved to Austin TX from the Bay Area, and brought a few bulbs with me I couldn't give up, including some Cyrtanthus, Brugmansia, and Boophone distichta. I assume the humidity is worse everywhere in Louisiana, and it's only our 15th day over 100 degrees here, and they're all in pots, but none has died yet. On Aug 10, 2013, at 9:50 PM, Tim Chapman wrote: > > : > >> Is anybody attempting to grow South African bulbs in Louisiana or other parts of the south? >> _____ > > That's a very wide ranging topic. What part of Louisiana? > > In St Gabriel (just south of Baton Rouge) I'm growing several Eucomis spp and varieties. Species Gladiolus seem to be hit or miss but there are definitely ones that will thrive here. While not really a bulb, Kniphofia spp and hybrids can do very well here. > > Of course Agapathus are everywhere. The various forms of Gloriosa superba do quite well. Ledebouria are showing a lot of promise but I've tested them in pots outside over winter not in the ground yet (a few species are known to handle this climate well though ). Drimiopsis spp can do well here , especially maculata. > > I'm sure there is a very long list of others that could do well and an even longer list of those that won't. Our climate doesn't really match well with any of the SA areas so its just trial and error figuring out what will do here. > > Tim Chapman > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From eciton@alumni.utexas.net Sun, 11 Aug 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: Louisiana Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 08:28:23 -0500 Russ, I grow hundreds of S. African species very successfully here in Austin, Texas (USDA cold zone 8b, heat zone 9). Most are in pots, but I am trying more in the ground each year, generally with surprising success if they are planted in good drainage. In many ways, most of Louisiana would be easier than here. Your weather is less extreme/changeable, and your water/soil is more acidic. Half of Austin sits on a limestone escarpment (Edward's Plateau) and all our water filters through it. Would be glad to chat with you and share tips on growing in the South-East US. m From Jadeboy48@aol.com Sun, 11 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <74a1a.130c5ac7.3f393847@aol.com> From: Jadeboy48@aol.com Subject: Resons about growing Cape Bulbs in the South Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 14:56:07 -0400 (EDT) Well I a not sure I can help you but Arizona is pretty far South. I grow a lot of cape bulbs and have been very sucessful for over 15 years. I live in the wsetern side of the Phoenix Valley. We have temps that can get to over 120F and down to high 20's in the winter. Rain is very sporadic, mostly winter and late summer. I grow mostly in containers, many Cyrtanthus are in gallon plastic pots and are watered every other day during warm (plus 85F) weather and they are in full sun. Most of my bulbs get part shade during very hot times. Crinum are very easy to grow many are in 2 gallon pots. They are lush and growing very rapidly now. Many bulbs that need a dry summer rest just go dormant when they get too hot. My bulbs are under metal canopies so it is easy to keep them dry.I have found some bulbs adapt to the heat better than others but I don't remember any total die offs. Hope this helps-Russ H From jshields@indy.net Sun, 11 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130811145928.035c09b0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Resons about growing Cape Bulbs in the South Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 15:02:55 -0400 I would see two potentially serious problems with growing many Cape bulbs in Louisiana: 1. Excessive precipitation 2. High night-time temperatures in summer That said, Crinum bulbispermum appears to absolutely love to grow in Louisiana. Many Cape bulbs should do well there, but those sensitive to moisture in their dormant season probably will not. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Sun, 11 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376254404.11017.YahooMailNeo@web120402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: Looking for pamianthe, seeds or seedlings Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 13:53:24 -0700 (PDT) I've been expanding my interest in species amaryllids in the past few years, and have been unsucessfully beating the bushes looking for pamianthe. There is a very expensive plant in Scotland offered on ebay, but other than that, not much, and importation sounds risky. I've googled everything I can think of. Does anyone in the group know of a good source, or should I just keep my eye on eBay and hope? I have a very small seedling of worsleya that I could trade for a similar size pam seedling, or for a few seeds. Thanks! --Rick in CT/USA From bulborum@gmail.com Sun, 11 Aug 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Looking for pamianthe, seeds or seedlings Date: Sun, 11 Aug 2013 23:01:14 +0200 Next year if you can't find it Rick Roland R de Boer 2238 Route de la Maugardiere F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com Facebook Groups:https://www.facebook.com/groups/518187888211511/ Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bulborum/452518118130496 2013/8/11 Rick Buell > I've been expanding my interest in species amaryllids in the past few > years, and have been unsucessfully beating the bushes looking for > pamianthe. There is a very expensive plant in Scotland offered on ebay, but > other than that, not much, and importation sounds risky. I've googled > everything I can think of. Does anyone in the group know of a good source, > or should I just keep my eye on eBay and hope? I have a very small seedling > of worsleya that I could trade for a similar size pam seedling, or for a > few seeds. > > Thanks! > > --Rick in CT/USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 12 Aug 2013 10:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <1376327599.74265.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 342 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 10:13:19 -0700 (PDT) Dear All,          The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.     If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 342" in the subject line.           Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.        Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:            If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:   Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA   Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.               I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !!   From Jay Yourch: 1. Small bulbs of Crinum 'Summer Nocturne'.   2. Small bulbs of Crinum 'Birthday Party' 3. Small bulbs of Crinum asiaticum var pedunculatum 4. Crinum bulbispermum 'Jumbo' seeds From Rimmer de Vries: 5. Bulbs of Oxalis bowiei ex BX 251 From Kathleen Sayce: 6. Small bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna (three different cultivars) From Monica Swartz: 7. Cormlets of Sparaxis parviflora 8.Small bulbs of Ornithogalum glandulosum 9. Bulbs of Oxalis convexula 10. Small bulbs of Nerine sarniensis 11. Small corms of Cyanella hyacinthoides From Nhu Nguyen: 12. Bulbs of Ledebouria socialis, green form, 'Laxifolia' 13. bulbs of Ledebouria socialis, purple form 14, Bulbs of Tulbaghia simmleri, light pink form 15. Small bulbs of Narcissus 'Taffeta' From Jim Shields: 16. Bulbs of Zephyranthes pulchella From Penny Sommerville: 17. Large corms of Chasmanthe floribunda From Terry Laskiewicz: 18. Small bulbs of Narcissus romieuxi 'Julia Jane' Thank you, Jay, Rimmer, Kathleen, Monica, Nhu, Jim, Penny, and Terry  !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From meenglis@meenglis.cts.com Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <520920B8.1050806@meenglis.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 342 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 10:51:52 -0700 Dell: your address ds429@frontier.com> returns an error msg. ds429 wrote: > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > > From ds429@comcast.net Mon, 12 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1171894460.2211599.1376334654791.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 342 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 19:10:54 +0000 (UTC) Hmm. I am receiving most BX orders on that address. It's always something ! Thanks. Hope all is well with you. Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marguerite English" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, August 12, 2013 1:51:52 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 342 Dell: your address ds429@frontier.com>  returns an error msg. ds429 wrote: > Dear All, >   >        The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > >   _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From meenglis@meenglis.cts.com Mon, 12 Aug 2013 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <520948A1.4080904@meenglis.cts.com> From: Marguerite English Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 342 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 13:42:09 -0700 From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Tue, 13 Aug 2013 00:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Hippeastrum & Griffinia order Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2013 23:53:26 -0700 Diana, I would like to order: 1-5741 Hippeastrum reticulatum v strictifolium $25.00 1-5767 Griffinia espiritensis $20.00 Subtotal $45.00 S & H $20.00 Tax $3.26 Total $68.26 Karl Church 359 Amber Lane Dinuba, CA 93618 (559)639-3566 On Jun 25, 2013 8:57 AM, "Diana Chapman" wrote: > I have posted more on Hippeastrum, and will wrap it up tomorrow. The > ones described are not all the species I have, but some I have had a > very short time and don't feel qualified to say anything about them yet. > > Many thanks for all the kind comments and the helpful advice about the > blog. > > Diana > www.telosrarebulbs.com > www.thebulbmaven.typepad.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 13 Aug 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <520A9AAF.7050001@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Moraea polyanthus Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 08:44:31 +1200 The seed has grown and now has buds and finished flowers. I have been watching these plants carefully every day. There is a bud, then the next thing there is this scrunched up finished flower. Is this what it does? At this stage I will biff the lot. (Throw out) It is not worth taking up precious garden space. Can anyone enlighten me that they have actually seen the flower and that it is worth growing? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 13 Aug 2013 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1376431395.99619.YahooMailNeo@web84505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Moraea polyanthus Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 15:03:15 -0700 (PDT) I've flowered it here in Maryland, USA, Ina. It reminded me of many other small flowered, blue irids, including the local weedy blue-leyed grass Sisyrinchium although the Moraea flowers were larger.  Years ago when Moraea sisyrinchium, the Spanish nut, first opened one of its iris-like flowers here, I almost missed it. The flowers did not open until late in the afternoon and were only open for about four hours if that.  These plants are obviously not for people who go out for dinner a lot! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where some of the BX Achimenes are starting to bloom.  From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 13 Aug 2013 16:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Moraea polyanthus Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 22:53:38 +0000 Moraea polyanthos is one of the late bloomers, along with the Tritonias and others. Now it is too early for this species in our Hemisphere, Ina. Flowers are medium sized, a deep violet blue, and more regular than the average Moraea. From administrator@pilling.demon.co.uk Tue, 13 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Administrator User Subject: Pollen Conservation Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 01:13:45 +0000 Hi A week or so back there was a discussion about pollen here. We got an interesting posting from Fabio Francisco Suarez complete with photos. Photos are not allowed on this list. I tried hard to get in touch with Fabio offering to put his photos and text on the wiki. I failed. If you're reading this Fabio, please get in touch. I've added the text and pictures to the wiki, temporarily, unless I get permission to retain them, I'll delete them in a weeks time. The page is at: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/PollenStorage The original posting in Spanish is below. English is my version. Pbsers who like to make crosses or hybrids need to have a bank of pollen. The enemy is moisture, wet pollen or pollen contaminated with fungus is unusable. To store it, dehydrate with silica gel, for that we use a plastic cup with lid and build a false floor with cardboard, we will make 4 holes with a nail as shown in the photo 1, at the bottom of the cup are approximately 12 spheres of silica gel (photo 2) above the false floor are the stamens with pollen (photo 3) these vessels with pollen (photo 4) are stored in the refrigerator in the bottom, temperature (5-8 °C) (41-46 °F) the silica gel removes the moisture of the environment within the vessel. At 12 days the pollen is dry and can be put in a polyethylene bag with hermetic seal (zip lock) and sent to another country. Photo 6 Miniatum hippeastrum pollen tubes in culture medium for 12 hours 100x magnification. Estimados Pbsers Conservación Polen A los Pbsers que les gusta hacer cruces o híbridos, necesitan tener un banco de polen. El enemigo del polen es la humedad, un polen húmedo se contamina con hongos, o se forma una pasta húmeda inservible. Para conservarlo lo deshidrataremos con gel silica, para eso usaremos un vaso plástico con tapa , pequeño, y le construiremos un falso piso con cartulina, le haremos 4 huecos con un clavo como lo indica la foto #1, en la parte inferior del vaso van aproximadamente 12 esferas de gel silica (foto #2) que se consigue en una tienda de productos químicos, encima del falso piso van los estambres con el polen (Foto #3) ;estos vasos con polen (fotos #4) se guardan en el refrigerador en la parte inferior, temperatura ( 5-8) grados °C (41-46 °F) ; la gel silica le quita la humedad al medio ambiente dentro del vaso. A los 12 dias ese polen esta seco y se puede meter en una bolsa de polietileno con cierre hermético (Zip lock) y enviarlo a otro país, o tenerlos para uno. Shmuel , foto #6, tubos polinicos de hippeastrum johnsoni en medio de cultivo , durante 12 horas, aumento de 100x. David Pilling From willis@fred.net Tue, 13 Aug 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <2BEA1BED-2B86-4590-B760-31D1B48C771F@fred.net> From: John Willis Subject: potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2013 22:13:32 -0400 Hi there, for what it's worth I just finished mixing up 40 cubic feet of assorted good things for my new alpine bed using a cement mixer that I bought from Lowes. I looked at various options including used items on craig's list but in the end I wanted something that was likely to work for many loads. Even this is a lot of manual labor but it beats trying to mix the ingredients in a wheelbarrow. I used chicken grit for the gravel in two sizes (starter and developer) from the local farmer's coop, topsoil bought in bulk and dumped in the pasture, miracle gro potting mix, and a good general purpose sand bought by the bag from a local nursery. The details are on my blog. On Aug 9, 2013, at 5:48 PM, Ceridwen Lloyd wrote: > Hi all, > Forgive me if this has already been discussed (I haven't yet had time to read all messages in this thread) - what do you use as a soil mixer? (The commercial nursery ones look excellent but I suspect my husband would protest.) > Shovelling into a wheelbarrow is ok but slow and hard on my weedy old shoulders. An ODJOB or sealed bucket type looks too heavy to lift if it were of any useful size, so I was wondering whether a conventional cement mixer would do the trick? I am leaning more and more toward mixing my own after finding all kinds of crud in commercial mix (half inch chunks of laminated particle board, various plastics, etc) which also grows an evil-smelling mould on top of it when in a lidded container, which I'm in no mood to inhale...another thread no doubt) > Cheers > Ceridwen > (Just potted up Alophia lahue from FIRST EVER seed received, yay) > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 09/08/2013, at 9:57 PM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" wrote: > >> Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. >> >> I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. If it >> wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each component's >> purpose? >> >> I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and to >> reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? >> >> How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how much of >> each item on your minor mix? >> >> For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local Farm & >> Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. >> >> As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I will start >> making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and adding to it. Same >> as you; I vary the components based on the individual needs of the plant to >> be potted. >> >> Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized how >> expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a better mix >> myself at a lower cost. >> >> Best regards, Lisa >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >> On Behalf Of Monica Swartz >> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >> >> I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than importing >> a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my potting >> ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: >> 1 part pumice (DryStall), >> 1 part sand, >> 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure >> Turface), >> 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains have >> their own brands of the same thing), >> 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). >> This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop of a mix >> of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, bone meal, blood >> meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic fungicide, granular >> imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. >> It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in big >> plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this base to >> tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal bowls from a >> restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this and that as I go. The >> objective of this potting "personalization" is to have a healthy collection >> of plants that can all be watered at the same time no matter where they are >> from. It takes no special knowledge about the plants to water them, my >> house-sitter can do it, or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water >> dormancy, it is moved into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system >> has created a surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free >> vacations, and the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS >> BX/SX is one beneficiary. >> m >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day... http://www.macgardens.org From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <004001ce98e2$3e6acaa0$bb405fe0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 06:34:25 -0500 Hi John-Where is your blog? Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Willis Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:14 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Hi there, for what it's worth I just finished mixing up 40 cubic feet of assorted good things for my new alpine bed using a cement mixer that I bought from Lowes. I looked at various options including used items on craig's list but in the end I wanted something that was likely to work for many loads. Even this is a lot of manual labor but it beats trying to mix the ingredients in a wheelbarrow. I used chicken grit for the gravel in two sizes (starter and developer) from the local farmer's coop, topsoil bought in bulk and dumped in the pasture, miracle gro potting mix, and a good general purpose sand bought by the bag from a local nursery. The details are on my blog. On Aug 9, 2013, at 5:48 PM, Ceridwen Lloyd wrote: > Hi all, > Forgive me if this has already been discussed (I haven't yet had time > to read all messages in this thread) - what do you use as a soil > mixer? (The commercial nursery ones look excellent but I suspect my > husband would protest.) Shovelling into a wheelbarrow is ok but slow > and hard on my weedy old shoulders. An ODJOB or sealed bucket type > looks too heavy to lift if it were of any useful size, so I was > wondering whether a conventional cement mixer would do the trick? I am > leaning more and more toward mixing my own after finding all kinds of > crud in commercial mix (half inch chunks of laminated particle board, > various plastics, etc) which also grows an evil-smelling mould on top > of it when in a lidded container, which I'm in no mood to > inhale...another thread no doubt) Cheers Ceridwen (Just potted up > Alophia lahue from FIRST EVER seed received, yay) > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 09/08/2013, at 9:57 PM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" wrote: > >> Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. >> >> I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. >> If it wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each >> component's purpose? >> >> I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and >> to reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? >> >> How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how >> much of each item on your minor mix? >> >> For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local Farm >> & Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. >> >> As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I >> will start making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and >> adding to it. Same as you; I vary the components based on the >> individual needs of the plant to be potted. >> >> Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized >> how expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a >> better mix myself at a lower cost. >> >> Best regards, Lisa >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >> On Behalf Of Monica Swartz >> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >> >> I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than >> importing a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my >> potting ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: >> 1 part pumice (DryStall), >> 1 part sand, >> 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure >> Turface), >> 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains >> have their own brands of the same thing), >> 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). >> This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop >> of a mix of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, >> bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic >> fungicide, granular imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. >> It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in >> big plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this >> base to tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal >> bowls from a restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this >> and that as I go. The objective of this potting "personalization" is >> to have a healthy collection of plants that can all be watered at the >> same time no matter where they are from. It takes no special >> knowledge about the plants to water them, my house-sitter can do it, >> or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water dormancy, it is moved >> into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system has created a >> surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free vacations, and >> the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS BX/SX is one beneficiary. >> m >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day... http://www.macgardens.org From macjohn@mac.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 06:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <30609882-4374-49C0-AD00-2559E6F53095@mac.com> From: John Willis Subject: potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 07:55:37 -0400 I put the link in the message. Perhaps that doesn't come through for you. http://macgardens.org/?p=3610 — jw On Aug 14, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > Hi John-Where is your blog? > > Best regards, Lisa > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of John Willis > Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:14 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 > > Hi there, for what it's worth I just finished mixing up 40 cubic feet of > assorted good things for my new alpine bed using a cement mixer that I > bought from Lowes. I looked at various options including used items on > craig's list but in the end I wanted something that was likely to work for > many loads. Even this is a lot of manual labor but it beats trying to mix > the ingredients in a wheelbarrow. I used chicken grit for the gravel in two > sizes (starter and developer) from the local farmer's coop, topsoil bought > in bulk and dumped in the pasture, miracle gro potting mix, and a good > general purpose sand bought by the bag from a local nursery. The details > are on my blog. > > > On Aug 9, 2013, at 5:48 PM, Ceridwen Lloyd > wrote: > >> Hi all, >> Forgive me if this has already been discussed (I haven't yet had time >> to read all messages in this thread) - what do you use as a soil >> mixer? (The commercial nursery ones look excellent but I suspect my >> husband would protest.) Shovelling into a wheelbarrow is ok but slow >> and hard on my weedy old shoulders. An ODJOB or sealed bucket type >> looks too heavy to lift if it were of any useful size, so I was >> wondering whether a conventional cement mixer would do the trick? I am >> leaning more and more toward mixing my own after finding all kinds of >> crud in commercial mix (half inch chunks of laminated particle board, >> various plastics, etc) which also grows an evil-smelling mould on top >> of it when in a lidded container, which I'm in no mood to >> inhale...another thread no doubt) Cheers Ceridwen (Just potted up >> Alophia lahue from FIRST EVER seed received, yay) >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 09/08/2013, at 9:57 PM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" > wrote: >> >>> Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. >>> >>> I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. >>> If it wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each >>> component's purpose? >>> >>> I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and >>> to reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? >>> >>> How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how >>> much of each item on your minor mix? >>> >>> For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local Farm >>> & Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. >>> >>> As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I >>> will start making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and >>> adding to it. Same as you; I vary the components based on the >>> individual needs of the plant to be potted. >>> >>> Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized >>> how expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a >>> better mix myself at a lower cost. >>> >>> Best regards, Lisa >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >>> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >>> On Behalf Of Monica Swartz >>> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM >>> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >>> >>> I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than >>> importing a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my >>> potting ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: >>> 1 part pumice (DryStall), >>> 1 part sand, >>> 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure >>> Turface), >>> 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains >>> have their own brands of the same thing), >>> 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). >>> This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop >>> of a mix of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, >>> bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic >>> fungicide, granular imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. >>> It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in >>> big plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this >>> base to tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal >>> bowls from a restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this >>> and that as I go. The objective of this potting "personalization" is >>> to have a healthy collection of plants that can all be watered at the >>> same time no matter where they are from. It takes no special >>> knowledge about the plants to water them, my house-sitter can do it, >>> or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water dormancy, it is moved >>> into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system has created a >>> surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free vacations, and >>> the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS BX/SX is one > beneficiary. >>> m >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Gardens get wilder every day... > http://www.macgardens.org > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day... http://www.macgardens.org From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <002401ce990d$ad50c7a0$07f256e0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 11:45:19 -0500 Thanks. The link was at the very bottom of the email; I only read as far as your email message. :} Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of John Willis Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 6:56 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 I put the link in the message. Perhaps that doesn't come through for you. http://macgardens.org/?p=3610 - jw On Aug 14, 2013, at 7:34 AM, Shoal Creek Succulents wrote: > Hi John-Where is your blog? > > Best regards, Lisa > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org > [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of John Willis > Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 9:14 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media/dry stall - mixing it?2 > > Hi there, for what it's worth I just finished mixing up 40 cubic feet > of assorted good things for my new alpine bed using a cement mixer > that I bought from Lowes. I looked at various options including used > items on craig's list but in the end I wanted something that was > likely to work for many loads. Even this is a lot of manual labor but > it beats trying to mix the ingredients in a wheelbarrow. I used > chicken grit for the gravel in two sizes (starter and developer) from > the local farmer's coop, topsoil bought in bulk and dumped in the > pasture, miracle gro potting mix, and a good general purpose sand > bought by the bag from a local nursery. The details are on my blog. > > > On Aug 9, 2013, at 5:48 PM, Ceridwen Lloyd > wrote: > >> Hi all, >> Forgive me if this has already been discussed (I haven't yet had time >> to read all messages in this thread) - what do you use as a soil >> mixer? (The commercial nursery ones look excellent but I suspect my >> husband would protest.) Shovelling into a wheelbarrow is ok but slow >> and hard on my weedy old shoulders. An ODJOB or sealed bucket type >> looks too heavy to lift if it were of any useful size, so I was >> wondering whether a conventional cement mixer would do the trick? I >> am leaning more and more toward mixing my own after finding all kinds >> of crud in commercial mix (half inch chunks of laminated particle >> board, various plastics, etc) which also grows an evil-smelling mould >> on top of it when in a lidded container, which I'm in no mood to >> inhale...another thread no doubt) Cheers Ceridwen (Just potted up >> Alophia lahue from FIRST EVER seed received, yay) >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 09/08/2013, at 9:57 PM, "Shoal Creek Succulents" > wrote: >> >>> Thanks to everyone for responses and this new chain. >>> >>> I use a similar mix; although - Monica- yours is much more involved. >>> If it wouldn't be too much trouble - would you mind notating each >>> component's purpose? >>> >>> I believe pumice & turface are added for moisture, aeration, CEC and >>> to reduce soil compaction; so why add the sand? >>> >>> How big is your mixer, 5 gallon, 10 gallon? And would you share how >>> much of each item on your minor mix? >>> >>> For top dressing my plants, I found crushed granite at our local >>> Farm & Fleet store for $4.49 for a 50 pound bag. >>> >>> As soon as I can locate all of the items in bulk at a low cost; I >>> will start making my own mix. I am still using an organic mix and >>> adding to it. Same as you; I vary the components based on the >>> individual needs of the plant to be potted. >>> >>> Thanks again - very thought provoking. Until now; I never realized >>> how expensive my commercially bought mix was - compared to making a >>> better mix myself at a lower cost. >>> >>> Best regards, Lisa >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org >>> [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] >>> On Behalf Of Monica Swartz >>> Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 5:30 PM >>> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> Subject: Re: [pbs] potting media >>> >>> I use DryStall as my pumice source. It is cheaper and easier than >>> importing a truckload of Pumice to Texas. I am often asked about my >>> potting ingredients. For potting most plants, my basic mix is: >>> 1 part pumice (DryStall), >>> 1 part sand, >>> 1 part Turface MVP (I love this stuff, I also root cuttings in pure >>> Turface), >>> 1 part Diatomite (Napa Floor Dry 8822, but other Auto parts chains >>> have their own brands of the same thing), >>> 1 part organic (usually a locally produced cactus mix). >>> This all goes into a cheap electric cement mixer along with a scoop >>> of a mix of my minor ingredients which include Azomite, humic acid, >>> bone meal, blood meal, cottonseed meal, 9 month osmocote, systemic >>> fungicide, granular imidacloprid, inoculums, etc. >>> It takes less than 5 minutes to make a big batch that is stored in >>> big plastic boxes with lids. When potting I add ingredients to this >>> base to tailor the mix for the needs of each plant. I use big metal >>> bowls from a restaurant supply. It's like cooking, a pinch of this >>> and that as I go. The objective of this potting "personalization" is >>> to have a healthy collection of plants that can all be watered at >>> the same time no matter where they are from. It takes no special >>> knowledge about the plants to water them, my house-sitter can do it, >>> or even my husband. If a plant is in no-water dormancy, it is moved >>> into the garage, out of range of the hose. This system has created a >>> surprising amount of freedom to take long worry-free vacations, and >>> the plants are very happy and embarrassingly fecund. The PBS BX/SX >>> is one > beneficiary. >>> m >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Gardens get wilder every day... > http://www.macgardens.org > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day... http://www.macgardens.org From john.bartlett72@yahoo.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1376499184.59739.YahooMailNeo@web140004.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: John bartlett Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 09:53:04 -0700 (PDT) Very Good-  I'll take six or seven, don't want to overwhelm the sale- Enjoy the family!  John B. ________________________________ From: ds429 To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 8:10 AM Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Dear All,          The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.     If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 341" in the subject line.           Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.        Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:            If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:   Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA   Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.               I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !!   From Nhu Nguyen:   KEY: S = summer growing, W = winter growing, OP = open pollinated, CP = control pollinated   SEEDS: 1. Albuca spiralis - [W, OP] this plant selfs and there were no other Albuca blooming at the same time. 2. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pod) x Augrabies Hills (pollen) [W, CP] - tentatively identified as forms of Albuca polyphylla 3. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pollen) x Augrabies Hills (pod) [W, CP] - tentatively identified as forms of Albuca polyphylla 4. Babiana "longituba" [W, OP] 5. Gladiolus splendens [W, OP] 6. Gladiolus quadrangularis [W, OP] 7. Gladiolus alatus [W, OP] 8. Geissorhiza radians [W, OP] 9. Geissorhiza corrugata [W, OP] 10. Geissorhiza aspera [W, OP] 11. Sparaxis elegans [W, OP] 12. Sparaxis tricolor [W, OP] 13. Hesperantha bachmannii [W, OP] no other Hesperantha were blooming at the same time 14. Massonia pustulata NNBH905 [W, OP] originally from Paul Cumbleton, BX181, described as having very few pustules 15. Massonia aff. pustulata NNBH786 [W, OP] originally from Roy Herold, BX174 16. Lachenalia ensifolia (syn Polyxena pygmaea) [W, OP] 17. Rauhia multiflora [S, CP] 18. Calochortus umbellatus [W, OP] 19. Triteleia lugens [W, CP] 20. Delphinium nudicaule [W, CP] these seeds should be pure 21. Lewisia brachycalyx [W, CP] 22. Fritillaria affinis robust x normal form [W, CP] - we had a discussion about the robust form before that it may be a triploid. However, it crossed just fine with a regular form, from a different location, so I don't think it's a triploid. The seedlings should be an interesting mix of sizes and colors.   BULBS: 23. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1306 24. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1304 25. Hippeastrum striatum 26. Sparaxis elegans 27. Sparaxis tricolor   From Stephen Gregg:   28. Seed of Pancratium maritimum   From Ray Talley:   29. Seed of Veltheimia bracteata, pink form, though about 10% turn out to be yellow; ex Cal State Fullerton   From Karl Church:   30. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Orange Sovereign', OP 31. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Minerva' , OP   From Jim Waddick:   32. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum, 'Jumbo' 33. Seed of Crinum macowanii   From Jim Shields:   34. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum 35. Seed of Hymenocallis guerreroensis (VERY FEW) 36. Seed of Hymenocallis franklinensis  (VERY FEW) 37. Seed of Haemanthus montanus (FEW) 38. Seed of Sprekelia howardii 39. Seed of Habranthus tubispathus cf texanus 40. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum   Thank you, Nhu, Stephen, Ray, Karl, Jim and Jim !!   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX From ds429@frontier.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1376499865.58119.YahooMailNeo@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX 342 CLOSED Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:04:25 -0700 (PDT) Still some Crinum 'Summer Nocturne' left, though.   Best wishes, Dell From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <003c01ce9910$b2286000$16792000$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Moraea polyanthos Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 10:07:00 -0700 Ina wrote: >> Can anyone enlighten me that they have actually seen the flower and that it is worth growing? I received this species two years ago from a friend, and am still learning exactly how to treat it. At this point I'd call it a rewarding although not spectacular Moraea, and I'm puzzled that you're having trouble with it. A couple of thoughts... --The plants I've grown will bloom for a long period of time: several months starting in spring and extending into summer. To me, that is their biggest advantage. Just as the other Moraeas are winding down, these start blooming, and they keep going. After almost all of my other Moraeas had dried up and gone dormant this year, these were still in bloom. I think if I'd been more diligent about keeping the pots moist, they would have bloomed even longer. --Alberto's right, yours should be blooming in ~December-January in your climate. Your bulbs may be confused, and I wonder if that that might cause erratic flowering. This species is widespread but comes mostly from parts of South Africa that have low but irregular rainfall. I wonder if maybe your bulbs are getting rain at the wrong time of year, going into growth opportunistically, but then not getting the high temps and light levels they need in order to flower well. You might try giving them a dry summer/autumn and then watering them starting in mid-winter... --The flowers are fairly small compared to other Moraeas, but there were often multiple flowers open on a single day. They make a nice blue cluster. According to Goldblatt's book, if they get more water they'll grow bigger. --This is one of the Moraea species whose flowers last only a single day. In the morning, you'll see buds getting ready to open. By midday they are generally open, and then they close into little wrinkled nubs after the sun leaves them. One thing to check, Ian, is how much sun your plants get, and what time of day they're in sun. Mine are in full blazing sun all day, so the flowers are open for a pretty long time. I've noticed that with some of the single-day flowering bulbs, as soon as they get any shade or even just a reduction in sunlight they decide the sun is going down and they terminate the flower fast. If your plants are in part shade, you might try them in full sun -- especially with strong afternoon sun -- before you give up on them. Hope this helps, Mike San Jose CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -6C) From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <520BE596.80606@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Moraea polyanthus - polyanthos Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 08:16:22 +1200 Thank you Alberto, Mary Sue, Mike, Jim, for your response and suggestions. Mary Sue, I see you call them Moraea polyanthos. PBS Wiki uses both polyanthos and polyanthus. Which is the correct spelling? I was taken with Mike's description of "little wrinkled nubs" for the finished flowers, as that is exactly what they look like. And is all I have seen so far. The are in the full sun, it is spring here, also M. polystachya has finished flowering here, M. tripetala is throwing up the occasional flower (don't forget these are only seedlings in their second year of growth) so timing I think is right for Auckland, NZ, as Mary Sue said there could be quite long window of flowering times. They are in a container against the house so stay dry unless I water them, which they don't get often. However, today 2 of the buds are looking like actual buds, the folded petals are showing! WOW! I may see a flower today! I had not seen them with the closed petals even so far. As the plants look like they will take up quite a bit of space (weedy growth to my mind) I will probably pass them on to someone here in NZ who is very keen to take them off my hands. So they won't take up space I would rather use for the Zephyranthes and Habranthus. Ina Auckland, New Zealand equivalent to Zone 10a From a2chaney@aol.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8D0674C06923FAC-F68-2DA9F@webmail-d248.sysops.aol.com> From: a2chaney@aol.com Subject: Re; 0 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:26:08 -0400 (EDT) referral program http://mind4share.com/tjcobo/Workathomescheme.php Sent: 8/14/2013 2:19:53 PM From Arnold Chaney From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 14 Aug 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Moraea polyanthus - polyanthos Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 23:03:45 +0100 Hi, In message <520BE596.80606@gmail.com>, Ina Crossley writes >Thank you Alberto, Mary Sue, Mike, Jim, for your response and >suggestions. Mary Sue, I see you call them Moraea polyanthos. PBS Wiki >uses both polyanthos and polyanthus. Which is the correct spelling? "Polyanthos" is correct and is the one used on the wiki. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 14 Aug 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Re; 0 Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 23:05:03 +0100 Hi, Looks like spam - ignore it, don't click on the link... There will be no more from this source. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <520C00CA.3060605@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Moraea polyanthus - polyanthos Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:12:26 +1200 Thank you David, the label will be changed. You are so helpful! Thank you Ina On 15/08/2013 10:03 a.m., David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > In message <520BE596.80606@gmail.com>, Ina Crossley > writes >> Thank you Alberto, Mary Sue, Mike, Jim, for your response and >> suggestions. Mary Sue, I see you call them Moraea polyanthos. PBS Wiki >> uses both polyanthos and polyanthus. Which is the correct spelling? > "Polyanthos" is correct and is the one used on the wiki. > > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jshields@indy.net Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130814192257.030e42a0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:24:55 -0400 I need advice on how to germinate seeds of Arum sp. from Eastern Europe. I have been soaking them in several changes of water since receiving them a week or two ago. None have germinated so far, at least as far as I can tell by looking. Do they need stratification to induce germination? Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From santoury@aol.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8D0675D2275893B-AA4-2CBFC@webmail-d274.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:28:37 -0400 (EDT) I have germinated many Arum, by planting 1/2 inch under the soil surface, and kept moist. Some took longer - but many, if not all, did germinate. They received no pretreatment of any kind. From plicht@berkeley.edu Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Paul LICHT Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 16:42:18 -0700 Not all are equal. I find that some cold treatment speeds things up. In any case, germination often does not begin for 2-4months and then can be spread out. I like to use the 'deno' method: put on wet paper towels in a ziploc baggie, but check them regularly Pot as they begin to root. Paul -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 4:28 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > > I have germinated many Arum, by planting 1/2 inch under the soil surface, > and kept moist. Some took longer - but many, if not all, did germinate. > They received no pretreatment of any kind. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 17:11:20 -0700 I’d appreciate any advice the *Calochortus* experts may have re: persuading plants to set seed. I have had great luck getting flowers and plenty of pods, but a significant number of pods don’t produce viable seed. A capsule develops (sometimes to full size) but stops developing before the seed matures. I am wondering if this is common in *Calochortuses* and if there are common causes I can look to address when the season starts again. (Everything’s dormant now, I just happen to have a few minutes to pose the question…) *More detail:* · We are located in the Los Angeles basin (closer to Downtown/Hollywood than the beach, for those who know our micro-climates). So it’s not as warm as “The Valley”, but we don’t get the persistent marine layer or coastal fog that they do in Santa Monica. · Plants are in full sun. · Plants are on hydro-zoned berms. The soil is a mix of our local decomposed granite and bark-based cactus mix (or peat moss, whatever I had on hand) to a depth of 15”-20”. Below that, it’s adobe clay. None of the bulbs are anywhere near the clay at this point. · I stop watering after blooming ends. · Species include: *superbus, venustus, argillosus, luteus, albus, amabilis, striatus, plummerae, palmeri (v palmeri and v munzi), clavatus *(*v avius, v clavatus) *and* **weedii (various)*. · Blooms have been great for most of these. · Seed results have been inconsistent for most (with zero seed two years running from *clavatus* and *weedii*). Any thoughts are welcome. Chris. From awilson@avonia.com Wed, 14 Aug 2013 21:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5ACAC9FA48BD4498B506D42C35BC4C1B@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: A. belladonna experiment Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 21:14:55 -0700 Blooms have been sparse here this year for belladonnas. I did an experiment to see what may be responsible. The blooming season began here about a month ago. All clumps are planted in the ground where they have been undisturbed for years. Seeing the reduction in number of blooms for a second year in a row I decided to try an experiment by waterng a clump that had been dry since April. Within three days the flowerheads appeared through the coarse gravel and less than five days later they were in full bloom! Pure coincidence, you say. They would have come up anyway. No, unwatered clumps nearby are still without a bloom. So, I repeated the experiment elsewhere in the garden. The same result ensued, no matter whether the respective clumps (20 -30 bulbs per clump) were in sun or in shade. Several clumps have bloomed, somewhat sparsely, wihout this watering. However those clumps had received water by being planted in the few areas that do get regular summer watering. The conclusion I draw is that the watering was the trigger. What I cannot yet conclude is whether it was the water moisture that was taken up by the bulbs or the water cooling of the soil that was responsible. Such tests will have to wait until next year. I am not saying that this behavior is to be expected everywhere. Here's why. San Diego has had two successive dry winters. When winters are wet blooming is invariably denser than it has been this year and the plants bloom plentifully without the need for any encouragement. I suspect that is the situation most years in areas further north of here where winters are wetter. In the past two years the large clumps here are still without blooms. Maybe some late blooms will appear but I do not feel confident that will happen. All clumps to have shown bloom either received water by their locations being close to watered plants or were triggered by my selected waterings. While watering triggred the bloom, the resulting display is less impressive than it is after a wet winter. Andrew San Diego From tom@evolution-plants.com Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <3A5F9699-724B-4E17-8490-D5116D793740@evolution-plants.com> From: Tom Mitchell Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 17:35:45 +0100 > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:24:55 -0400 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130814192257.030e42a0@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed > > I need advice on how to germinate seeds of Arum sp. from Eastern Europe. > > I have been soaking them in several changes of water since receiving them a > week or two ago. None have germinated so far, at least as far as I can > tell by looking. > > Do they need stratification to induce germination? > > Jim Shields > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40? 02.8' N, Long. 086? 06.6' W > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:28:37 -0400 (EDT) > From: The Silent Seed > Subject: Re: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <8D0675D2275893B-AA4-2CBFC@webmail-d274.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > I have germinated many Arum, by planting 1/2 inch under the soil surface, and kept moist. Some took longer - but many, if not all, did germinate. They received no pretreatment of any kind. > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 16:42:18 -0700 > From: Paul LICHT > Subject: Re: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Not all are equal. I find that some cold treatment speeds things up. In > any case, germination often does not begin for 2-4months and then can be > spread out. I like to use the 'deno' method: put on wet paper towels in > a ziploc baggie, but check them regularly Pot as they begin to root. > Paul > > -- > Paul Licht, Director > University of California Botanical Garden > 200 Centennial Drive > Berkeley, CA 94720 > (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu > I have germinated a lot of wild collected Arum seeds without stratification. If sown promptly after ripening, most seem to germinate before the onset of fall. Others germinate after the first winter but I have the impression this is more to do with germination inhibitors than a need for stratification, per se. In discussion with Peter Boyce a couple of years ago, he wrote that there is evidence that the pulp surrounding seeds contains germination inhibitors and that removing the seeds from the pulp relatively early encourages quick germination. Obviously with wild-collected seed, you can't choose when they are collected... Tom From wjanetos@yahoo.com Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376586980.62965.YahooMailNeo@web163404.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Bill Janetos Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:16:20 -0700 (PDT) Hi Everyone, I was the one who collected the Arum seeds, The fruit had turned red but was washed off after harvesting in mid July. None I mine have germinated yet, but remain hopeful they will soon. They will return to into indoor growing areas before I try acclimating to my outside areas in Zone 6. Bill Janetos ________________________________ From: Tom Mitchell To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2013 12:35 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Germinating Arum > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:24:55 -0400 > From: "J.E. Shields" > Subject: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.2.20130814192257.030e42a0@pop.indy.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; format=flowed > > I need advice on how to germinate seeds of Arum sp. from Eastern Europe. > > I have been soaking them in several changes of water since receiving them a > week or two ago.  None have germinated so far, at least as far as I can > tell by looking. > > Do they need stratification to induce germination? > > Jim Shields > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields            USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40? 02.8' N, Long. 086? 06.6' W > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 19:28:37 -0400 (EDT) > From: The Silent Seed > Subject: Re: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Message-ID: <8D0675D2275893B-AA4-2CBFC@webmail-d274.sysops.aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > I have germinated many Arum, by planting 1/2 inch under the soil surface, and kept moist. Some took longer - but many, if not all, did germinate. They received no pretreatment of any kind. > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2013 16:42:18 -0700 > From: Paul LICHT > Subject: Re: [pbs] Germinating Arum > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: >     > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Not all are equal.  I find that some cold treatment speeds things up. In > any case, germination often does not begin for 2-4months and then can be > spread out.  I  like to use the 'deno' method: put on wet paper towels in > a ziploc baggie, but check them regularly Pot as they begin to root. > Paul > > -- > Paul Licht, Director > University of California Botanical Garden > 200 Centennial Drive > Berkeley, CA 94720 > (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu > I have germinated a lot of wild collected Arum seeds without stratification. If sown promptly after ripening, most seem to germinate before the onset of fall. Others germinate after the first winter but I have the impression this is more to do with germination inhibitors than a need for stratification, per se. In discussion with Peter Boyce a couple of years ago, he wrote that there is evidence that the pulp surrounding seeds contains germination inhibitors and that removing the seeds from the pulp relatively early encourages quick germination. Obviously with wild-collected seed, you can't choose when they are collected... Tom From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <005101ce99df$7e8e3a10$7baaae30$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 10:47:20 -0700 Chris wrote: >> A capsule develops (sometimes to full size) but stops developing before the seed matures. I am wondering if this is common I'm not really an expert, but I have some experience, so let me speculate. In my experience it's not common for Calochortus to abort their seed pods like this when the bulbs are completely happy. I've seen Calochortus bulbs in pots abort their pods when the pot dries out a little early while the seeds are maturing (for example, I had that happen this season with one pot of C. argillosus that was in full sun). What seems to happen is that if the pot dries out too much while the seeds are developing, the bulbs immediately stop putting energy into the pods. They just stop growing. They'll dry out, but they never open and often the seeds inside are not mature when you open the pod. I'm just speculating here, but I wonder if maybe your soil is drying out too much during the seed maturation process. In nature, many Calochortus grow in the ground in decomposed serpentine that can be surprisingly water-retentive. I tried putting some of that soil in pots once, in an effort to grow some rare Calochortus species. The soil stayed completely goopy and waterlogged all winter, and then turned into a concrete-like substance in the summer. Even though your plants are in the ground, the adobe underneath them may be so deep that the plants can't reach it to draw on it as a water reservoir. So they're growing exclusively in the planting mix you created, and maybe that's drying out too fast. I grew up in LA, and I can imagine the full sun and low humidity sucking all the moisture out of your planting mix. You could try a couple of experiments if you want: --Create a different part of your planting bed with the adobe only about six inches below the surface, so the bulbs can reach into that for moisture. --Try watering one section of your growing area a few times as the seed pods are maturing. In my experience, Calochortus bulbs are not too vulnerable to rot from watering if they're still partially in growth. The time you really don't want to water them is when they're totally dried out and brown, even down to the stems. Two other possibilities to think about: In California there are many small beetles adapted to eating the pollen of Calochortus. They go along the anthers like they're ears of corn, and strip off all the pollen. I've had some plants stripped so thoroughly that they can't set seed. So you might want to try some hand pollination. The other question to ask is whether you're sure that you have genetically different individuals of each species. I find it harder (but not impossible) to get seeds from a single self-pollinated plant than from several individuals crossed together. If you got your bulbs from one of the mass market bulb companies, they might all be genetically identical clones. Hope this helps. Mike San Jose, CA From totototo@telus.net Thu, 15 Aug 2013 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <520CBC14.22906.4AB1@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 11:31:32 -0700 On 14 Aug 2013, at 19:24, J.E. Shields wrote: > I need advice on how to germinate seeds of Arum sp. from Eastern Europe. > > I have been soaking them in several changes of water since receiving them a week > or two ago. None have germinated so far, at least as far as I can tell by > looking. > > Do they need stratification to induce germination? The soaking was a good idea, but now they need to be sown in pots and put outside in a cold frame until they germinate next spring. A general rule, with a great many exceptions, is that seeds germinate around the same time mature plants of the same species leaf out in spring (or fall or whenever). -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 15 Aug 2013 16:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2013 15:41:31 -0700 I've never had to do anything to get the Calochortus species I grow (including those mentioned by Chris), so I assume that suitable pollinators are here, far from the homeland of most of them. If Chris's plants are flowering well, it probably is not the soil mix he/she is using, strange though it seems for this genus. One thing that I've read is that Calochortus do not tolerate chlorinated water well. I use rainwater from a storage tank on my bulbs, and where I lived before I had my own well. I don't know if this could affect fertility. Chris, have you looked to see if there are insects in the capsules? I've occasionally found small larvae in them, eating the seeds. Signs of infestation could include small holes in the capsules and weblike material in the capsules. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 05:11 PM 8/14/2013, Chris wrote: >I'd appreciate any advice the *Calochortus* experts may have re: persuading >plants to set seed. I have had great luck getting flowers and plenty of >pods, but a significant number of pods don't produce viable seed. A capsule >develops (sometimes to full size) but stops developing before the seed >matures. I am wondering if this is common in *Calochortuses* and if there >are common causes I can look to address when the season starts again. From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Fri, 16 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 16:37:41 -0700 Thanks Mike. I will test your drying-out theory this year. Everything you read about Calochortuses tells you to make sure the mix is well-draining, and I have only ever seen them in the wild growing in very well-draining situations, so I may well have overdone it. (Coincidentally John Wickham had the same thought about them succumbing to a dry spell, and a similar suggestion how to address it.) So, this season I will try a water-retentive layer below the bulbs, at a depth where the roots can reach. The question is how deep. Protocol ... do I get a follow up question? (Sorry I’m new here.) Might anyone provide me some guidance re: a) How deep Calochortus roots tend to extend below the bulb (esp for the various Mariposas)? In other words, how deep a water-retentive layer should I make? b) How deep should I plan for the bulbs themselves to dig? I forget which species dig in more than others, but I recall some of them pull themselves deeper each season. Does that mean a bulb could sit 20” or more below the surface and still bloom? If they reach a water-retentive layer, will they tend to stop digging, or will they dig into it and potentially rot? Finally regarding the other potential causes Mike and Jane raised: - I appreciate Jane’s caution against chlorinated water, a concern in LA. (The tap water reeks of chlorine, at least in summer). However, my plants are watered from a fish pond, so this shouldn’t be an issue. - Didn’t notice any infestations or pollen-eating beatles but will keep an eye out. - Inbreeding? That might once have been an issue (eg, where I had only a single bulb of a species), but I think I have genetic diversity for everything now. Regards, Chris. On Thu, Aug 15, 2013 at 10:47 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > Chris wrote: > > >> A capsule develops (sometimes to full size) but stops developing before > the seed matures. I am wondering if this is common > > I'm not really an expert, but I have some experience, so let me speculate. > > In my experience it's not common for Calochortus to abort their seed pods > like this when the bulbs are completely happy. > > I've seen Calochortus bulbs in pots abort their pods when the pot dries out > a little early while the seeds are maturing (for example, I had that happen > this season with one pot of C. argillosus that was in full sun). What seems > to happen is that if the pot dries out too much while the seeds are > developing, the bulbs immediately stop putting energy into the pods. They > just stop growing. They'll dry out, but they never open and often the seeds > inside are not mature when you open the pod. > > I'm just speculating here, but I wonder if maybe your soil is drying out > too > much during the seed maturation process. In nature, many Calochortus grow > in > the ground in decomposed serpentine that can be surprisingly > water-retentive. I tried putting some of that soil in pots once, in an > effort to grow some rare Calochortus species. The soil stayed completely > goopy and waterlogged all winter, and then turned into a concrete-like > substance in the summer. > > Even though your plants are in the ground, the adobe underneath them may be > so deep that the plants can't reach it to draw on it as a water reservoir. > So they're growing exclusively in the planting mix you created, and maybe > that's drying out too fast. I grew up in LA, and I can imagine the full sun > and low humidity sucking all the moisture out of your planting mix. > > You could try a couple of experiments if you want: > > --Create a different part of your planting bed with the adobe only about > six > inches below the surface, so the bulbs can reach into that for moisture. > > --Try watering one section of your growing area a few times as the seed > pods > are maturing. In my experience, Calochortus bulbs are not too vulnerable to > rot from watering if they're still partially in growth. The time you really > don't want to water them is when they're totally dried out and brown, even > down to the stems. > > Two other possibilities to think about: In California there are many small > beetles adapted to eating the pollen of Calochortus. They go along the > anthers like they're ears of corn, and strip off all the pollen. I've had > some plants stripped so thoroughly that they can't set seed. So you might > want to try some hand pollination. > > The other question to ask is whether you're sure that you have genetically > different individuals of each species. I find it harder (but not > impossible) > to get seeds from a single self-pollinated plant than from several > individuals crossed together. If you got your bulbs from one of the mass > market bulb companies, they might all be genetically identical clones. > > Hope this helps. > > Mike > San Jose, CA > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 16 Aug 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 17:07:47 -0700 To address some of Chris's other concerns: Probably Mike's suspicion of excessive drying is a good one. The mix Chris describes probably doesn't retain any moisture. Even though Calochortus often grow on slopes and in rocky ground, the main bulbs are deep in the soil and the plants are often surrounded by rocks, shrubs, and grasses that help the soil retain some humidity. Rather than adding a "water-retentive layer," I would suggest revising the soil mix to exclude peat (which dries out and is very hard to rehydrate) and bark (which I believe to be deleterious for most bulbs), and instead incorporating some sand (as coarse as possible, but with some fines) and loam or leafmold if it can be obtained. If it's not possible to replace the existing soil, Chris should sprinkle it lightly occasionally during summer -- just wave the hose at it. Also, a gravel mulch will help both to retain moisture and to support the stems. Although some Calochortus grow naturally in stiff clay soils, such as adobe, I have not found this necessary for any of them, or indeed for any California bulbs. Calochortus bulbs move downward very quickly, e.g. 4 inches in two years. In many species new bulbils grow on the stems above the main bulb, and these eventually grow to flowering size, especially when the parent bulb gets eaten. You can hasten the process by detaching the bulbils and planting them a little distance away. I don't know how far the roots extend below the bulb as I have never lifted any when they were in growth, but I don't think it's very far as I didn't find them extending beyond the mesh baskets I grew some in. I wouldn't expect them to grow more than about 10 inches (30 cm) below the soil surface, though. I have at least two Calochortus species (C. palmeri and C. dunnii) of which I have only a single clone, and they have produced fertile seed, so I suspect many or most are self-fertile. All the Calochortus flowers are done here now, but I'm still waiting and waiting for the last two (C. plummerae and C. weedii) to ripen their seed. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 04:37 PM 8/16/2013, you wrote: >Thanks Mike. I will test your drying-out theory this year. Everything you >read about Calochortuses tells you to make sure the mix is well-draining, >and I have only ever seen them in the wild growing in very well-draining >situations, so I may well have overdone it. a) How deep >Calochortus roots tend to extend below the bulb (esp for >the various Mariposas)? In other words, how deep a water-retentive layer >should I make? > >b) How deep should I plan for the bulbs themselves to dig? I forget >which species dig in more than others, but I recall some of them pull >themselves deeper each season. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 16 Aug 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Is it summer or fall? Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 17:19:57 -0700 Mid-August is a time when the last Mediterranean-cycle bulbs of summer overlap with the first bulbs of fall. Calochortus weedii and C. plummerae have finally dropped their petals, and the California onion Allium sanbornii is in full bloom, the only "summer" species doing so in the bulb house. There, however, the colchicums are waking up, whether watered (on the "moist" side) or not (on the "xeric" side). Colchicum macrophyllum opens its flowers, which are surprisingly small considering the size of its leaves. White Colchicum kotschyi is open on the dry side, and I saw the pink tips of another species emerging this morning. In the garden Brodiaea californica (last of the themids) is almost over, and Acis autumnalis has raised its sudden white bells, and where watered, Cyclamen hederifolium is beginning to open, as is the related Cyclamen africanum. In the borders, Crocosmia hybrids are the most colorful right now, and Eucomis species remain ornamental for a long period. Eucomis autumnalis doesn't wait until fall to flower here -- it blooms right along with the other species and hybrids. Another curiosity that just opened is Alstroemeria isabellanae; thank to Nhu for identifying this plant, a Brazilian species that is being sold as "Alstroemeria x Bomarea," presumably because some grower couldn't tell which it was. The western South American alstroemerias here flower much earlier, though little Alstroemeria hookeri has been pushing up flowering stems for at least four months, and I harvested the first seed capsules from it today. (If you don't want to lose your alstroemeria seed, which is dispersed explosively, check the capsules by bending them over gently. The mature capsules detach easily from the pedicels. Slightly immature ones can ripen in the envelope, though, if you have to pick them in the wild.) By the way, I'd like to mention how useful it is to write out the full names of bulbs we discuss, as I've done above. People doing an internet search for a plant often find it on the PBS website, and if the full name appears in our archived posts, it can be helpful to them -- and even recruit new members. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator PBS Portland, Oregon, USA From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Fri, 16 Aug 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376706890.70207.YahooMailNeo@web181202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: Is it summer or fall? Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 19:34:50 -0700 (PDT) Here in Los Angeles, I've notice that a few of my winter-deciduous plants are starting to turn. And its not just dead leaves, but taking on Fall color. The Vitis and Cornus have a little Fall color and the Betula and Fraxinus seems to be thinking about it. I'm afraid it means I need to pull my winter growing bulbs out of storage earlier this year than usual. I typically have a few winter/spring bloomers that start putting on green growth in late August. That might start earlier this year. ________________________________ From: Jane McGary To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, August 16, 2013 5:19 PM Subject: [pbs] Is it summer or fall? Mid-August is a time when the last Mediterranean-cycle bulbs of summer overlap with the first bulbs of fall. Calochortus weedii and C. plummerae have finally dropped their petals, and the California onion Allium sanbornii is in full bloom, the only "summer" species doing so in the bulb house. There, however, the colchicums are waking up, whether watered (on the "moist" side) or not (on the "xeric" side). Colchicum macrophyllum opens its flowers, which are surprisingly small considering the size of its leaves. White Colchicum kotschyi is open on the dry side, and I saw the pink tips of another species emerging this morning. In the garden Brodiaea californica (last of the themids) is almost over, and Acis autumnalis has raised its sudden white bells, and where watered, Cyclamen hederifolium is beginning to open, as is the related Cyclamen africanum. In the borders, Crocosmia hybrids are the most colorful right now, and Eucomis species remain ornamental for a long period. Eucomis autumnalis doesn't wait until fall to flower here -- it blooms right along with the other species and hybrids. Another curiosity that just opened is Alstroemeria isabellanae; thank to Nhu for identifying this plant, a Brazilian species that is being sold as "Alstroemeria x Bomarea," presumably because some grower couldn't tell which it was. The western South American alstroemerias here flower much earlier, though little Alstroemeria hookeri has been pushing up flowering stems for at least four months, and I harvested the first seed capsules from it today. (If you don't want to lose your alstroemeria seed, which is dispersed explosively, check the capsules by bending them over gently. The mature capsules detach easily from the pedicels. Slightly immature ones can ripen in the envelope, though, if you have to pick them in the wild.) By the way, I'd like to mention how useful it is to write out the full names of bulbs we discuss, as I've done above. People doing an internet search for a plant often find it on the PBS website, and if the full name appears in our archived posts, it can be helpful to them -- and even recruit new members. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator PBS Portland, Oregon, USA From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Fri, 16 Aug 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Is it summer or fall? Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 19:54:54 -0700 Thanks for bringing up the subject of Eucomis, which are in season . Eucomis schjiffii is blooming, and what a prize, but not easy. I have it planted in nothing but pumice/ sand with a slight bit of fertility. On the deck, Eucomis Hadco Hybrids from the South African house of Hippeastrums are blooming, and WHAT a show. I grew these from seed, 5 years from starting, and are as fine as ANY hybrid I've seed introduced. Keep your eyes peeled for ANYTHING from Hadco. Clayton On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 7:34 PM, John Wickham wrote: > Here in Los Angeles, I've notice that a few of my winter-deciduous plants > are starting to turn. And its not just dead leaves, but taking on Fall > color. The Vitis and Cornus have a little Fall color and the Betula and > Fraxinus seems to be thinking about it. I'm afraid it means I need to pull > my winter growing bulbs out of storage earlier this year than usual. I > typically have a few winter/spring bloomers that start putting on green > growth in late August. That might start earlier this year. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Jane McGary > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Friday, August 16, 2013 5:19 PM > Subject: [pbs] Is it summer or fall? > > > Mid-August is a time when the last Mediterranean-cycle bulbs of > summer overlap with the first bulbs of fall. Calochortus weedii and > C. plummerae have finally dropped their petals, and the California > onion Allium sanbornii is in full bloom, the only "summer" species > doing so in the bulb house. There, however, the colchicums are waking > up, whether watered (on the "moist" side) or not (on the "xeric" > side). Colchicum macrophyllum opens its flowers, which are > surprisingly small considering the size of its leaves. White > Colchicum kotschyi is open on the dry side, and I saw the pink tips > of another species emerging this morning. In the garden Brodiaea > californica (last of the themids) is almost over, and Acis autumnalis > has raised its sudden white bells, and where watered, Cyclamen > hederifolium is beginning to open, as is the related Cyclamen africanum. > > In the borders, Crocosmia hybrids are the most colorful right now, > and Eucomis species remain ornamental for a long period. Eucomis > autumnalis doesn't wait until fall to flower here -- it blooms right > along with the other species and hybrids. Another curiosity that just > opened is Alstroemeria isabellanae; thank to Nhu for identifying this > plant, a Brazilian species that is being sold as "Alstroemeria x > Bomarea," presumably because some grower couldn't tell which it was. > The western South American alstroemerias here flower much earlier, > though little Alstroemeria hookeri has been pushing up flowering > stems for at least four months, and I harvested the first seed > capsules from it today. (If you don't want to lose your alstroemeria > seed, which is dispersed explosively, check the capsules by bending > them over gently. The mature capsules detach easily from the > pedicels. Slightly immature ones can ripen in the envelope, though, > if you have to pick them in the wild.) > > By the way, I'd like to mention how useful it is to write out the > full names of bulbs we discuss, as I've done above. People doing an > internet search for a plant often find it on the PBS website, and if > the full name appears in our archived posts, it can be helpful to > them -- and even recruit new members. > > Jane McGary > Membership Coordinator > PBS > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <6FB6022D-8D52-4B96-86FC-129D26102A14@gmail.com> From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 21:54:49 -0700 Jane, thanks for the suggestions. I can rework the mix. Can I pick your brain further: 1. Any commercial products you like that qualify as loam? That ingredient always stumps me and the native soil here ain't nowhere close to loam. 2. How do you feel about Perlite as an ingredient in this situation? Asking because I came into a big pile of it. 3. The sand I can most easily get is playground sand. I assume I need to rinse it in case it is full of salt? 4. Btw, I actually think the area's decomposed granite may also be a good primary ingredient for this purpose because it contains everything from fines to grit to irregular pea-sized bits and retains more moisture than I expected before I tested it. Chris On Aug 16, 2013, at 5:07 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > To address some of Chris's other concerns: > > Probably Mike's suspicion of excessive drying is a good one. The mix > Chris describes probably doesn't retain any moisture. Even though > Calochortus often grow on slopes and in rocky ground, the main bulbs > are deep in the soil and the plants are often surrounded by rocks, > shrubs, and grasses that help the soil retain some humidity. Rather > than adding a "water-retentive layer," I would suggest revising the > soil mix to exclude peat (which dries out and is very hard to > rehydrate) and bark (which I believe to be deleterious for most > bulbs), and instead incorporating some sand (as coarse as possible, > but with some fines) and loam or leafmold if it can be obtained. If > it's not possible to replace the existing soil, Chris should sprinkle > it lightly occasionally during summer -- just wave the hose at it. > Also, a gravel mulch will help both to retain moisture and to support > the stems. Although some Calochortus grow naturally in stiff clay > soils, such as adobe, I have not found this necessary for any of > them, or indeed for any California bulbs. > > Calochortus bulbs move downward very quickly, e.g. 4 inches in two > years. In many species new bulbils grow on the stems above the main > bulb, and these eventually grow to flowering size, especially when > the parent bulb gets eaten. You can hasten the process by detaching > the bulbils and planting them a little distance away. I don't know > how far the roots extend below the bulb as I have never lifted any > when they were in growth, but I don't think it's very far as I didn't > find them extending beyond the mesh baskets I grew some in. I > wouldn't expect them to grow more than about 10 inches (30 cm) below > the soil surface, though. > > I have at least two Calochortus species (C. palmeri and C. dunnii) of > which I have only a single clone, and they have produced fertile > seed, so I suspect many or most are self-fertile. > > All the Calochortus flowers are done here now, but I'm still waiting > and waiting for the last two (C. plummerae and C. weedii) to ripen their seed. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > At 04:37 PM 8/16/2013, you wrote: >> Thanks Mike. I will test your drying-out theory this year. Everything you >> read about Calochortuses tells you to make sure the mix is well-draining, >> and I have only ever seen them in the wild growing in very well-draining >> situations, so I may well have overdone it. a) How deep >> Calochortus roots tend to extend below the bulb (esp for >> the various Mariposas)? In other words, how deep a water-retentive layer >> should I make? >> >> b) How deep should I plan for the bulbs themselves to dig? I forget >> which species dig in more than others, but I recall some of them pull >> themselves deeper each season. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <776C1C27-9751-4289-8530-6C32647645AE@gmail.com> From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Is it summer or fall? Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 21:58:40 -0700 John, I found the same thing. Our Vitus californica fruit abruptly turned purple the last week of July, easily 2 or 3 weeks earlier than any of the last four years. I posted a picture to Facebook asking whether someone had sent a memo around to every garden in the neighborhood announcing "summer's over, get on with it". On Aug 16, 2013, at 7:34 PM, John Wickham wrote: > Here in Los Angeles, I've notice that a few of my winter-deciduous plants are starting to turn. And its not just dead leaves, but taking on Fall color. The Vitis and Cornus have a little Fall color and the Betula and Fraxinus seems to be thinking about it. I'm afraid it means I need to pull my winter growing bulbs out of storage earlier this year than usual. I typically have a few winter/spring bloomers that start putting on green growth in late August. That might start earlier this year. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Jane McGary > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Friday, August 16, 2013 5:19 PM > Subject: [pbs] Is it summer or fall? > > > Mid-August is a time when the last Mediterranean-cycle bulbs of > summer overlap with the first bulbs of fall. Calochortus weedii and > C. plummerae have finally dropped their petals, and the California > onion Allium sanbornii is in full bloom, the only "summer" species > doing so in the bulb house. There, however, the colchicums are waking > up, whether watered (on the "moist" side) or not (on the "xeric" > side). Colchicum macrophyllum opens its flowers, which are > surprisingly small considering the size of its leaves. White > Colchicum kotschyi is open on the dry side, and I saw the pink tips > of another species emerging this morning. In the garden Brodiaea > californica (last of the themids) is almost over, and Acis autumnalis > has raised its sudden white bells, and where watered, Cyclamen > hederifolium is beginning to open, as is the related Cyclamen africanum. > > In the borders, Crocosmia hybrids are the most colorful right now, > and Eucomis species remain ornamental for a long period. Eucomis > autumnalis doesn't wait until fall to flower here -- it blooms right > along with the other species and hybrids. Another curiosity that just > opened is Alstroemeria isabellanae; thank to Nhu for identifying this > plant, a Brazilian species that is being sold as "Alstroemeria x > Bomarea," presumably because some grower couldn't tell which it was. > The western South American alstroemerias here flower much earlier, > though little Alstroemeria hookeri has been pushing up flowering > stems for at least four months, and I harvested the first seed > capsules from it today. (If you don't want to lose your alstroemeria > seed, which is dispersed explosively, check the capsules by bending > them over gently. The mature capsules detach easily from the > pedicels. Slightly immature ones can ripen in the envelope, though, > if you have to pick them in the wild.) > > By the way, I'd like to mention how useful it is to write out the > full names of bulbs we discuss, as I've done above. People doing an > internet search for a plant often find it on the PBS website, and if > the full name appears in our archived posts, it can be helpful to > them -- and even recruit new members. > > Jane McGary > Membership Coordinator > PBS > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 16 Aug 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <009401ce9b0b$71b1b420$55151c60$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to set seed Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:34:27 -0700 Chris wrote: >>do I get a follow up question? As many as you want. >> How deep Calochortus roots tend to extend below the bulb (esp for the various Mariposas)? Good question. I've never had the courage to dig one up while in growth and check. >>How deep should I plan for the bulbs themselves to dig? I grow them only in pots, and never tried to dig them in the wild. But I remember seeing anecdotes from some of the old bulb-collectors that talked about following bulb cases down and down and down... When I grow them in pots, they seem to go down 1-2 inches every year, meaning I have to repot after two years or they'll be at risk of running into the bottom of the pot (after which they usually die). I've never been sure if they dive deep because they're looking for cooler soil in an overheated pot or just because it's in their nature to move down. Personally, I'd try an experiment in which you put a layer of about 6-8 inches of your planting mix above the local adobe. I know that's enough depth to keep the bulbs safe from rot for a couple of years, and with luck the roots will be able to reach the moister soil. Then after about three years dig them up to see how far down they've gone, and if any are in the clay. I'm not sure that growing into the clay would hurt them, as long as it's far enough down that it won't get hot. But I think the biggest issue isn't the depth of the planting mix, it's keeping up the watering until the seed pods are mature. >>If they reach a water-retentive layer, will they tend to stop digging, or will they dig into it and potentially rot? Unfortunately, I don't know. Sorry. By the way, perlite is going to make your soil mix even more fast-draining, unless the perlite is full of fines. Mike San Jose, CA From leo@possi.org Fri, 16 Aug 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <38840cc80ac767375920cc06bba7a697.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:48:44 -0700 (PDT) For those here understanding climates in Australia: When should I start watering Calostemma purpureum? They grow for me but haven't bloomed. I have been keeping them inside my house in their containers since they died down last spring. A lot of discussion in our archives suggests they need good soakings at the end of summer when it is still hot in order to flower. In the past I haven't watered them until it cooled down in November, but then recently I read about late summer watering. We still have daytime temperatures around 110F / 43C and will be above 100F / 38C during the day for at least the next two months, through mid or late October. Nights are in the range 85-90F / 30-32C though they will start cooling in a month or so. We may still get summer monsoon rain through mid September. Thanks, Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From pattoolan@hotmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: pat toolan Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:06:41 +0930 Calostemmas grow naturally here. When I have tried to dig them they are usually quite a long way down - at least 18". I feel this keeps them cool during our long hot summers with occasional rain during that time but it would not penetrate that far down. There is a huge patch which would get the run off from a local road but then there are also odd bulbs on the high side of roads and in the paddocks - I do know these ones are way down deep.Last year we had a drought and when the Calostemmas on the high side of the road flowered they were extra small and not many blooms.This year we had no rain in Jan, 14mls in Feb, 7 in March, 40.5 in April, 26 in May, 74.5 in June, 92.5(2x the amount of last July) in July. I think they will flower well this year. We get about 20" annually. March, April, May is Autumn etc.March can still be fairly hot but the rain would not have reached the bulbs but I am pretty sure that the bulbs start into new growth once the night temperatures start dropp ing.Hope this helps a little. Pat Toolan PO Box 568, Angaston SA 5353 08 85 648 286 > Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2013 22:48:44 -0700 > From: leo@possi.org > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] When to water Calostemma > > For those here understanding climates in Australia: When should I start watering > Calostemma purpureum? They grow for me but haven't bloomed. I have been keeping them > inside my house in their containers since they died down last spring. A lot of > discussion in our archives suggests they need good soakings at the end of summer when it > is still hot in order to flower. In the past I haven't watered them until it cooled down > in November, but then recently I read about late summer watering. > > We still have daytime temperatures around 110F / 43C and will be above 100F / 38C during > the day for at least the next two months, through mid or late October. Nights are in the > range 85-90F / 30-32C though they will start cooling in a month or so. We may still get > summer monsoon rain through mid September. > > Thanks, > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sat, 17 Aug 2013 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 08:34:57 -0700 On Aug 16, 2013, at 10:48 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > For those here understanding climates in Australia: When should I start watering > Calostemma purpureum? They grow for me but haven't bloomed. I have been keeping them > inside my house in their containers since they died down last spring. A lot of > discussion in our archives suggests they need good soakings at the end of summer when it > is still hot in order to flower. In the past I haven't watered them until it cooled down > in November, but then recently I read about late summer watering. I also have been treating mine as winter-growing/summer-dormant. And although they grow, they haven't thrived for me and I've only gotten them to bloom one year, quite a few years ago. But then I also heard/finally paid attention to/re-read? about summer watering for them. So this year I let them receive water this summer, and for the first time in about ten years, two pots have sent up scapes this past week and will open today or tomorrow. Yay! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m From jgglatt@gmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <520F9C7D.2040402@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Who Ate My Freesias? and Foraged Fine Gravel Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:53:33 -0400 So I'm repotting bulbs that I grow in my cool (50 degree F. winter temperature) greenhouse. And the Freesia alba corms that Mary Sue sent me several years ago are not in their pot! The only varmint I can think of would be mice but I've never seen them or their droppings in the greenhouse. I'm desolate, as walking in there on a snowy winter day, mug of tea in hand, with the freesia perfuming the air is better than going on a cruise. So sad. And something different - there's an intermittent drainage creek along the side of the property, scoured down to the shale bedrock. With the heavy rains we've had this summer lovely fine stone has washed down in little gravel bars. I walk into the mostly dry creek bed and shovel up a bucket at a time. Wonderful for potting mixes and top dressing. Can't call it "silver sand" as it is red. Will now mix up another batch and start repotting Rhodophiala, then move them outdoors for the end of summer rains. Zephyranthes candida is enjoying the rains we've recently had. And - off topic - there was a wonderful flush of golden chanterelle mushrooms too. Judy in New Jersey where the days are noticeably shorter From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 09:54:34 -0700 Bulbists, Does anyone have info on the ideal ph for Nerine bowdeni and sarniensis hybrids, grown in pots? Clayton From leo@possi.org Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <94b1a06add7f3fe1c24e731142543818.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 10:50:59 -0700 (PDT) Thanks, Pat, for the excellent habitat climate information, and Lee, for your experience with plants in containers. I don't know enough about growing Calostemma but maybe somebody could add a bit about summer watering to the Wiki page? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Who Ate My Freesias? and Foraged Fine Grave Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 10:56:12 -0700 (PDT) > I walk into the mostly dry creek bed > and shovel up a bucket at a time. Careful! Are you damaging wetlands? Or strip mining without a permit? (this was sarcasm) I get fine granite gravel/sand from a desert wash running through my property. It is excellent for plants in containers. I have to screen mine, though, through 1/4" / 10mm wire mesh. > there was a wonderful flush of golden chanterelle mushrooms too. When in school in San Francisco I would drive north and pick chanterelles to sell to French restaurants in the city. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Encouraging Calochortus to Set Seed Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:00:39 -0700 Chris asked, >Jane, thanks for the suggestions. I can rework the mix. Can I pick >your brain further: >1. Any commercial products you like that qualify as loam? That >ingredient always stumps me and the native soil here ain't nowhere >close to loam. If you go to a garden center that offers a wide range of soil mixes (the one nearby serves "indoor gardeners," wink wink), look through the ingredients for something like "leafmold" or "forest humus." Some municipalities compost leaves and/or garden debris and sell it, too. I formerly dug and sieved topsoil from a forest on my country property, but now that I live in the city I've been composting oak leaves and buying suitable bagged mixes or products by the yard from nursery suppliers. Some of the latter will load more than one ingredient in the truck, and you can mix it after it's delivered. Some will even pre-mix it if you order enough. >2. How do you feel about Perlite as an ingredient in this situation? >Asking because I came into a big pile of it. I would NEVER put Perlite into a garden bed. It has no nutritional value and does not hold water, and it floats to the surface and blows around. Its only value is its light weight and slow breakdown, which makes it useful for container growing where the mix is irrigated almost daily and fertilized heavily, and the flats or pots have to be moved around a lot manually. If you can't get pumice, which you probably can't in quantity, I suggest using a small size of sharp, washed crushed rock, often known as "quarter-ten." Do not use "quarter minus" unless you wash out the fines first. >3. The sand I can most easily get is playground sand. I assume I >need to rinse it in case it is full of salt? I don't know what to do about seashore sand, can someone else help? "Playground sand" might be too fine and rounded, anyway. Even here around Portland, Oregon, I don't use the local sand derived from valley river deposits because it's too rounded and silty. Instead, I had several truckloads of sand from an upriver quarry brought in -- expensive transport, but well worth it. >4. Btw, I actually think the area's decomposed granite may also be a >good primary ingredient for this purpose because it contains >everything from fines to grit to irregular pea-sized bits and >retains more moisture than I expected before I tested it. I'm familiar with decomposed granite because it's the type of soil in my brother's garden in the California Coast Range. It is used for paths and other compacted applications because it hardens into an almost impervious surface when dry. Once wet, however, it opens up some unless it's been mechanically compacted. There are bulbs that grow in it naturally. When my brother and I added a compost plus sandy loam product from a nearby landscape supply company to the moistened decomp granite (it was my birthday present to him), we ended up with a pretty good planting bed in which a number of bulbs are flourishing. The other day I visited a friend's nursery and saw some healthy-looking bulbs being grown in a mixture of pumice and very well composted cow manure. The only thing I found wrong with it was that it seemed to get too dry, especially in the smaller sizes of pots exposed to heat. Another nursery where alpines and some bulbs are grown uses a lot of quarter-ten in mixes, troughs, and display beds; fortunately one of the proprietors is big and strong! A good chapter on soil ingredients appears in the Timber Press book "Rock Garden Design and Construction," which is out of print but widely obtainable. Most books on rock and alpine gardening discuss this topic at some length, but some of them, especially the older ones, go overboard on insisting on special mixtures for different kinds of plants. Most of us these days use just two or three formulae for all our plants. I hope this helps Chris and doesn't bore everybody else too much. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From markemazer@gmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Who Ate My Freesias? and Foraged Fine Grave Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 14:32:15 -0400 > I walk into the mostly dry creek bed > and shovel up a bucket at a time. >>Careful! Are you damaging wetlands? Or strip mining without a permit? (this was sarcasm) There are caveats regarding the non-commercial harvesting of gravel from a waterway for use on your own property.. A nosy neighbor with one phone call to the US Army Corps of Engineers can trigger an inspection. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USDA 8a On Sat, Aug 17, 2013 at 1:56 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > > I walk into the mostly dry creek bed > > and shovel up a bucket at a time. > > Careful! Are you damaging wetlands? Or strip mining without a permit? > (this was sarcasm) > I get fine granite gravel/sand from a desert wash running through my > property. It is > excellent for plants in containers. I have to screen mine, though, through > 1/4" / 10mm > wire mesh. > > > there was a wonderful flush of golden chanterelle mushrooms too. > > When in school in San Francisco I would drive north and pick chanterelles > to sell to > French restaurants in the city. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Who Ate My Freesias? and Foraged Fine Grave Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 18:34:12 +0000 " I have to screen mine, though, through 1/4" / 10mm > wire mesh." Hi Leo: And which size do you use? From leo@possi.org Sat, 17 Aug 2013 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Australian climate data Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:37:04 -0700 (PDT) I don't recall seeing this mentioned here, but Australia has detailed climate information available online at http://www.bom.gov.au Scroll down to the blue panels under the words "Our Services" and click on "Climate and Past Weather." I wanted to see typical temperatures where Calostemma grows, so I clicked on "Weather and climate data" about halfway down the page. I stayed at the tab "Select using text" and at the top used the first scrollbox "Select data about" and selected Temperature, Daily and Maximum. I input a member's hometown into the "Select a weather station in the area of interest." I unchecked the box "Only show open stations." After a while of database searching a list of weather stations popped up. I selected the first one, Nuriootpa Viticultural SA, and a graph opened showing me this station has been reporting data from the late 1990s to present. (For rainfall data the Angaston station has been reporting since the mid 1880s.) I selected the year for which I wanted data in the scroll box and clicked on "Get data." I was presented with a table of daily maximum temperatures in degrees C for this year. You can also use the tab "Select using map." On the right is a scroll box "I would like..." to choose which data you want. Then you can either click on the map to zoom into a location or type the location in the box on the right. When you zoom in you will see weather stations as small rectangles. Click on one and a balloon opens up offering information on the station, a scroll box to select the year desired, and a link to the data you selected. Looking at the various data I learned Calostemma may receive rain at any time of the year, but most falls during cool weather. Pat Toolan commented that during the summer not enough rain would fall to penetrate to the bulbs. Summer high temperatures are mostly around 100F / 98C and up to 105F / 41C. Summer nights cool considerably. There is frost on a few nights in almost all years, but rarely below -2C / 28 F and the lowest temperature in the last 5 years was -3.2C / 26F. A great climate resource for growers of Australian plants. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From othonna@gmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 12:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:41:58 -0700 In Los Angeles (Pasadena area) there is a planting of C. purpureum that has been in place for 20-30 years. These plants grow well with regular summer watering and of course winter rains (about 17" season average). They are in mostly sun with some midday shade, in garden loam in a shallow basin that probably directs extra water to the roots. They are evergreen and appreciate year round watering. Right now they are in leaf and full bloom-- with 200+ scapes it is quite a sight. I have some seedlings from these plants in sandy pumice mix and it may be too well-drained. Like crinums and certain other bulbs they seem to prefer a fine-textured soil. Dylan * * From pattoolan@hotmail.com Sat, 17 Aug 2013 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: pat toolan Subject: Australian climate data Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 06:40:40 +0930 And locals Leo!! Angaston and Nuri would get a few more inches rain than where we live at Keyneton. (same postcode) Pat Toolan PO Box 568, Angaston SA 5353 08 85 648 286 > Date: Sat, 17 Aug 2013 11:37:04 -0700 > From: leo@possi.org > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Australian climate data > > I don't recall seeing this mentioned here, but Australia has detailed climate > information available online at > http://www.bom.gov.au > Scroll down to the blue panels under the words "Our Services" and click on "Climate and > Past Weather." > > I wanted to see typical temperatures where Calostemma grows, so I clicked on "Weather > and climate data" about halfway down the page. > > I stayed at the tab "Select using text" and at the top used the first scrollbox "Select > data about" and selected Temperature, Daily and Maximum. > > I input a member's hometown into the "Select a weather station in the area of interest." > I unchecked the box "Only show open stations." After a while of database searching a > list of weather stations popped up. > > I selected the first one, Nuriootpa Viticultural SA, and a graph opened showing me this > station has been reporting data from the late 1990s to present. (For rainfall data the > Angaston station has been reporting since the mid 1880s.) > > I selected the year for which I wanted data in the scroll box and clicked on "Get data." > I was presented with a table of daily maximum temperatures in degrees C for this year. > > You can also use the tab "Select using map." On the right is a scroll box "I would > like..." to choose which data you want. Then you can either click on the map to zoom > into a location or type the location in the box on the right. When you zoom in you will > see weather stations as small rectangles. Click on one and a balloon opens up offering > information on the station, a scroll box to select the year desired, and a link to the > data you selected. > > Looking at the various data I learned Calostemma may receive rain at any time of the > year, but most falls during cool weather. Pat Toolan commented that during the summer > not enough rain would fall to penetrate to the bulbs. Summer high temperatures are > mostly around 100F / 98C and up to 105F / 41C. Summer nights cool considerably. There is > frost on a few nights in almost all years, but rarely below -2C / 28 F and the lowest > temperature in the last 5 years was -3.2C / 26F. > > A great climate resource for growers of Australian plants. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nickplummer@gmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: Is it summer or fall? Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:09:44 -0400 Here in my North Carolina garden, I know Autumn is here when the Lycoris radiata pop up. There is still no sign of them, so I'd call it Summer, albeit an unusually cool and wet one. Outside, Lilium catesbaei is still in bud; I think it is about 10 days later than usual. Lilium formosanum is blooming all over the place. It's almost a weed, the way it spreads, but any weed with such wonderful fragrance and flowers large enough for a hummingbird to almost disappear inside can stay. Can I consider terrestrial orchids with tuberoids honorary bulbs?Platanthera ciliaris is in full bloom outside, and in the greenhouse, the summer-growing tropical Habenaria and Pecteilis species are in bud or in bloom. Nick -- Nicholas Plummer Durham, NC, USA Zone 7 On Fri, Aug 16, 2013 at 8:19 PM, Jane McGary > wrote: > Mid-August is a time when the last Mediterranean-cycle bulbs of > summer overlap with the first bulbs of fall. > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7B828F42-DBC5-4026-BB44-8562FBCCEFE2@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Is it summer or fall or just unseasonable? Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:50:38 -0500 Friends, Here in Kansas City it is odd timing on bulbs - still. The whole season has been odd and it feels more like fall than mid August Still the Lycoris have started, but all out of sequence with a slew of L. sanguinea blooming along with L. squamigera, L. longituba and L. chinesis. L. sanguinea usually precedes all these. And bloom so far is small, but I am sure this is due to last year's awful extended drought. But the mild winter has produced a few blooms on haywardii (early too) and some nice hybrids. The mid season sp have not yet started and no sign of later ones either. thankfully. Still sending up stalks the Crinum beds are still gorgeous. I am totally impressed with the work of our own Jay Yourch, Alani David and others (Jim Shields unseen yet) and still others (D. Lehmiller) that there is a 'New Age of Garden Crinums" in our future. These new hardy hybrids have large colorful flower, pup modestly, are perfectly hardy and have delicious scents with manageably smaller foliage. These coming hybrids will be both garden specimens, architectural statements and suited to cut flower beds. We are enjoying these greatly. Right now we have 'Imperial Guard' (17 stalks so far each with about 10 flowers over weeks of bloom), Cecil Houdyshell -still blooming too, 'Super Ellen' -lost track of stalk numbers, Glory, Persephone, x. herbertii. Plant Delights has expanded their offerings greatly and many temptations although hardiness is not certain on all these. Our continuing trials with Crocosmia seem very tempermental. Those that prosper are wonderful, but others start good and disappear without blooming. We do have temperature extremes that may bring some to sudden dry dormancy and again others are suffering from last year's drought. Still we have had a succession of bloom red, orange, yellow and in-betweens for weeks. And a final bulbous oddity. Typhonium giganteum. This is one of - maybe THE hardiest members of the genus - and one of the last to emerge in late summer. It is just fully unfolded this week. We almost always miss bloom as it proceeds foliage, but we get distracted waiting for foliage for too long. The flower is not much, but the pink-rose raspberry-like fruits are really cute. It will stay up a few weeks and then fade away for another year. All together an odd sequence and we appreciate all that do show up. Soon it will be planting time, too. Best from the Midwest Jim W. On Aug 18, 2013, at 11:09 AM, Nicholas plummer wrote: > Here in my North Carolina garden, I know Autumn is here when the Lycoris > radiata pop up. There is still no sign of them, so I'd call it Summer, > albeit an unusually cool and wet one. From nikko123@btinternet.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376845828.39527.YahooMailNeo@web186106.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Nick de Rothschild Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:10:28 +0100 (BST) Yes. Our mix that you can find on http://nerines.com/Cultivation_notes.html is perfect.... not meaning to boast, but our nerines are very happy in this mix! (and we have many thousands.....!.... oops shouldn't boast, tut tut) Nikko ________________________________ From: clayton3120 clayton3120 To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Saturday, 17 August 2013, 17:54 Subject: [pbs] Nerine soil ph Bulbists, Does anyone have info  on the ideal ph  for Nerine bowdeni and sarniensis hybrids, grown in pots? Clayton ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the Symantec Email Security.cloud service. For more information please visit http://www.symanteccloud.com ______________________________________________________________________ From leo@possi.org Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <3cd763587626bfc176efe1839c8c505d.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Which size screened gravel to use Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:28:51 -0700 (PDT) I wrote of screening gravel from a desert wash for use in containers > I have to screen mine, though, through > 1/4" / 10mm wire mesh." Alberto asked > And which size do you use? Most of the time I use what falls through this screen and return the larger pieces. This is really good for almost all cactus and succulents as-is, as well as for bulbs needing good drainage. If I am planting a large container that I will need to move from time to time, I may add a large quantity of perlite or pumice to make the container easier to move. But pumice is hard to get here now, since the one mine in Arizona was closed. For bulbs that I think need a more silt- or clay-like medium I use another screen after this, a large kitchen strainer that has a mesh size of 1 or 2mm, and use the fine material for those seeds. Generally when I read something comes from sandstone soils or need a well-drained mix I use the larger size; for something from shale soils or renosterveld, or something that is semi-aquatic, I would try and use the finer size. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <42708ed90523de3e843b52c13761356d.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Who ate my freesias? Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:30:04 -0700 (PDT) > A nosy neighbor with one phone call to the US > Army Corps of Engineers can trigger an inspection. Yes, Welcome to the Monkey House. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <48d7249669878ce70a37706b3525eb90.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: When to water Calostemma Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:35:17 -0700 (PDT) Dylan wrote of an in-ground planting of Calostemma purpureum in Los Angeles getting year-round water and thriving. After writing and reading yesterday I went to take my containers from the house outside to water for the first time since about May, and found they have just started growing leaves. Looks like no flower this year. I think I will plant them in the ground where they will get water all year. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Which size screened gravel to use Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 18:38:27 +0100 I think that this is good advice Leo Peter (UK) From jgglatt@gmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <521107BE.7070105@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: "Mining" Gravel From The Drainage Creek Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 13:43:26 -0400 I'm appreciative that you are all looking out for me. Wouldn't want you to have to petition the prison authorities to allow me to grow bulbs in my cell (light levels probably too low anyhow.) The drainage creek only flows with snow melt / spring rain OR when we get a deluge of over an inch of rain in less than an hour. It is not a mapped wetland. And if you saw the county road crew with a backhoe excavating the culvert it runs into that crosses under the road, choked with debris after one of those "let's build an ark" type storms, well, my bucket of grit is infinitesimal by comparison. Clearly not a problem. Now, any suggestions on who ate the freesia corms? Judy in New Jersey where this morning's visit to three friends loaded my car with a large box from each of them, filled with 3.5 / 4 / 4.5 inch clay pots. Will happily spend the afternoon soaking and scrubbing them. From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1376848562.82186.YahooMailNeo@web160903.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Nerine soil ph (-- correct link) Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 10:56:02 -0700 (PDT) That link doesn't work.  This is a corrected link:  http://nerines.com/Cultivation_notes.html Jonathan Lubar Alachua FL  z8b >________________________________ > From: Nick de Rothschild >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 1:10 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Nerine soil ph > > >Yes. Our mix that you can find on http://nerines.com/Cultivation_notes.html is perfect.... not meaning to boast, but our nerines are very happy in this mix! (and we have many thousands.....!.... oops shouldn't boast, tut tut) > >Nikko > > >________________________________ >From: clayton3120 clayton3120 >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Saturday, 17 August 2013, 17:54 >Subject: [pbs] Nerine soil ph > > >Bulbists, >Does anyone have info  on the ideal ph  for Nerine bowdeni and sarniensis >hybrids, grown in pots? >Clayton >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > >______________________________________________________________________ >This email has been scanned by the Symantec Email Security.cloud service. >For more information please visit http://www.symanteccloud.com >______________________________________________________________________ >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > From plantnut@cox.net Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <9E1322E4-F2ED-4E81-9990-5BC587BFA5AC@cox.net> From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:01:15 -0700 I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. It is obviously some government controlled secret. No one in the nurseries in S. California know what it is. Hmmmm!! Joe On Aug 18, 2013, at 10:10 AM, Nick de Rothschild wrote: > Yes. Our mix that you can find on http://nerines.com/Cultivation_notes.html is perfect.... not meaning to boast, but our nerines are very happy in this mix! (and we have many thousands.....!.... oops shouldn't boast, tut tut) > > Nikko > > > ________________________________ > From: clayton3120 clayton3120 > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Saturday, 17 August 2013, 17:54 > Subject: [pbs] Nerine soil ph > > > Bulbists, > Does anyone have info on the ideal ph for Nerine bowdeni and sarniensis > hybrids, grown in pots? > Clayton > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > ______________________________________________________________________ > This email has been scanned by the Symantec Email Security.cloud service. > For more information please visit http://www.symanteccloud.com > ______________________________________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jshields@indy.net Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130818140804.039de818@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 14:10:57 -0400 I'm glad Joe mentioned this, as I am also puzzled by the mysterious John Innes and his secret numbered accounts. Then there is "bulb fiber" which is also new to me. Was it Mark Twain or Will Rogers who described the England and USA as "two countries separated by a common language"? Jim Shields At 11:01 AM 8/18/2013 -0700, you wrote: >I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. It >is obviously some government controlled secret. No one in the nurseries >in S. California know what it is. Hmmmm!! Joe ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From michaelhomick@gmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Michael Homick Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 11:39:40 -0700 Perhaps this link may help with some John Innes ingredients. http://gardenofeaden.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-make-john-innes-compost.html All the best, Michael Homick Gardener's Pride Botanicals Stevinson, California www.gpbotanicals.com On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:10 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > I'm glad Joe mentioned this, as I am also puzzled by the mysterious John > Innes and his secret numbered accounts. > > Then there is "bulb fiber" which is also new to me. > > Was it Mark Twain or Will Rogers who described the England and USA as "two > countries separated by a common language"? > > Jim Shields > > > At 11:01 AM 8/18/2013 -0700, you wrote: > >I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. It > >is obviously some government controlled secret. No one in the nurseries > >in S. California know what it is. Hmmmm!! Joe > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:25:49 -0700 But...... what is the ideal PH for Nerines? Acidic- Alkaline or neutral? On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:39 AM, Michael Homick wrote: > Perhaps this link may help with some John Innes ingredients. > > http://gardenofeaden.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-make-john-innes-compost.html > All the best, Michael Homick > Gardener's Pride Botanicals > Stevinson, California > www.gpbotanicals.com > > > On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:10 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > > > I'm glad Joe mentioned this, as I am also puzzled by the mysterious John > > Innes and his secret numbered accounts. > > > > Then there is "bulb fiber" which is also new to me. > > > > Was it Mark Twain or Will Rogers who described the England and USA as > "two > > countries separated by a common language"? > > > > Jim Shields > > > > > > At 11:01 AM 8/18/2013 -0700, you wrote: > > >I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. It > > >is obviously some government controlled secret. No one in the nurseries > > >in S. California know what it is. Hmmmm!! Joe > > > > ************************************************* > > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 18 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Acis valentina and fall-blooming Scilla Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 12:42:29 -0700 To add to the early fall (in this case, not late summer) bloomers being discussed, this morning I photographed a nice clump of Acis valentina (formerly Leucojum valentinum, and perhaps eventually to be placed in Galanthus) and added the photos to the wiki under that entry. These flowers look a little different than the earlier photos from John Lonsdale, probably because his opened wide in response to higher heat, and mine, pictured in the morning, are more bell-shaped. In both you can see the distinctive "noses" at the tips of the segments. These plants got into the garden because the label on their pot was lost during my recent move. I'm glad they did, though whether they'll survive a colder than average winter remains to be seen. Those in the garden, growing in well-watered, rich soil, are more robust than those in the bulb house, where they receive just a little summer water. The glaucous stems are about 10 inches/25 cm tall, and appear before any leaf growth. I recommend this plant of the western Mediterranean for temperate gardens. Unlike Acis autumnalis (a bit of a weed in gardens here), it hasn't shown a tendency to self-sow widely. Also appearing today are the first flowers of Prospero autumnalis (formerly Scilla autumnalis) in the rock garden, and Scilla scilloides (syn. Scilla japonica, in a group for which the genus name Barnardia has been proposed) in an island bed, popping up through the foliage of a prostrate-growing shrubby penstemon. The former self-sows readily. Fall-flowering Acis and Prospero autumnalis as well ripen their seed very rapidly, and seedlings mature rapidly too. Most of my Prospero autumnalis plants grew from seed I collected in the Peloponnese from a colony that was still flowering in roadside gravel. This contrasts with fall-blooming Crocus and Colchicum species whose seed doesn't ripen until spring. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 20:47:30 +0100 I believe many species naturally grow in acidic conditions but I am familliar with N bowdenii growing well in alkaline conditions, (gravel containing sea shells and areas with carboniferous limestone) Peter (UK) On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 8:25 PM, clayton3120 clayton3120 < clayton3120@cablespeed.com> wrote: > But...... what is the ideal PH for Nerines? Acidic- Alkaline or neutral? > > > On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:39 AM, Michael Homick >wrote: > > > Perhaps this link may help with some John Innes ingredients. > > > > > http://gardenofeaden.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-make-john-innes-compost.html > > All the best, Michael Homick > > Gardener's Pride Botanicals > > Stevinson, California > > www.gpbotanicals.com > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 18, 2013 at 11:10 AM, J.E. Shields > wrote: > > > > > I'm glad Joe mentioned this, as I am also puzzled by the mysterious > John > > > Innes and his secret numbered accounts. > > > > > > Then there is "bulb fiber" which is also new to me. > > > > > > Was it Mark Twain or Will Rogers who described the England and USA as > > "two > > > countries separated by a common language"? > > > > > > Jim Shields > > > > > > > > > At 11:01 AM 8/18/2013 -0700, you wrote: > > > >I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. > It > > > >is obviously some government controlled secret. No one in the > nurseries > > > >in S. California know what it is. Hmmmm!! Joe > > > > > > ************************************************* > > > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > > > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > > > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > > > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sun, 18 Aug 2013 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Acis valentina and fall-blooming Scilla Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 21:21:44 +0100 Hi, In message , Jane McGary writes >being discussed, this morning I photographed a nice clump of Acis >valentina (formerly Leucojum valentinum, and perhaps eventually to be >placed in Galanthus) and added the photos to the wiki under that Short cut to Jane's pictures: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Acis#valentina -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From totototo@telus.net Sun, 18 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5210D7B1.19613.309B7@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 14:18:25 -0700 On 18 Aug 2013, at 11:01, Joseph Kraatz wrote: > I so frequently hear of John Innes #3 and have no idea what this is. It is the #3 grade of the John Innes potting composts. Devised during the 1930s at the John Innes Institute in England. It's a mixture of rotted turves, peat moss, and fine sand, plus fertilizers. Many of the ingredients, such as "Cornish silver sand" and "hoof and horn meal", are no longer available even in the UK. The three grades of potting compost are distinguished by the #2 and #3 containing two and three times as much fertilizer as the #1 grade. There is also a JI seed compost, which has a somewhat different formula. The particulars of this potting mixture include: 1. The soil that goes into the mix (rotted turves in the original) is steam- pasteurized. 2. The pH is carefully adjusted by the addition of lime at two different stages of the process, first when building the pile of turf to be rotted down, and again later during the mixing stage. 3. Superphosphate is a key ingredient in the fertilizers. Undoubtedly I've forgotten other details. The JI Institute published a book on their findings: "Seed and Potting Composts", by J. Lawrence and W. J. C. Newell. A used copy will run you $20-30 according to bookfinder.com I used to use a mix formula based on the JI recipes, but substituting in a rational way what's available where I live. My formula is (was): To make 180 litres (two large garbage cans full): 80 litres pasteurized soil 40 litres coarse peatmoss, screened 30 litres #2 granite grit (sold as poultry grit) 30 litres horticultural perlite 216 grams bloodmeal or gelatin 216 grams single superphosphate (fine powder) 108 grams potassium sulphate 108 grams ground limestone 36 grams fritted trace elements, ground fine I originally bought pasteurized soil from a small nursery here, but that source dried up a long time ago, so I switched to a "top soil" sold cheaply at Canadian Tire. This top soil, excavated from an old lake bed and containing clay, silt, and peaty materials, proved to be quite acidic, with pH about 4-4.5. I later simplified the formula: 30 liters pasteurized soil 6 liters horticultural perlite 144 g granular organic fertilizer, analysis 4-6-8 7 g fritted trace elements lime depending on pH of soil. pH 4, 203g; pH 4.5, 168 g; pH 5 135 g. I will say, however, that this revised formula never gave entirely satisfactory growth of bulbs potted in it, perhaps because the texture wasn't right for them.. I give the formula details here only for information, not as something carved on stone tablets and brought down from a mountain top. Note that when I write "lime" I mean calcium carbonate in some form: chalk, agricultural lime, or ground limestone. NOT dolomite, which is much less soluble and not as effective at raising the pH of acidic soil. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Which size screened gravel to use Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 23:02:29 +0000 Many thanks, Leo, sounds very sensible. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 18 Aug 2013 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Nerine soil ph Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2013 23:48:06 +0000 It seems they are prety noble and will accept most conditions, even those disparate for South African bulbs. From hoperv@yahoo.com Mon, 19 Aug 2013 09:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1376926690.53929.YahooMailNeo@web161701.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: posting Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 08:38:10 -0700 (PDT) Does anybody have experience growing Eriospermum species? From hoperv@yahoo.com Mon, 19 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1376933452.6135.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: Posting problem Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 10:30:52 -0700 (PDT) Hi-   The message send must had a problem and it is probable my fault.  The subject did not appear in the summary of posts.  What do I need to do to correct this?  Should I send another posting?  What should I do in my next post?   Thanks, Russ From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Mon, 19 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Germinating Arum Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 00:09:40 +0200 Jim, Try 3 months at 20-25°C in damp soil, then 3 months at 2-4°C and then again 20°C. This is when you will see the first leaves. Same as Polygonatums. Janos From samarak@gizmoworks.com Mon, 19 Aug 2013 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5212E0B0.2060003@gizmoworks.com> From: Steve Marak Subject: posting (Eriospermum) Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 22:21:20 -0500 Russ, I have had several species for several years now, and they go through a cycle of growth and dormancy and seem healthy, but as none of them have flowered for me I don't know that my experience is worth much. Since they do seem healthy other than not flowering I suspect insufficient light and I'm moving them, along with a number of other bulbs, to higher light (they are greenhouse plants for me, though they don't seem to require much more than frost-free when dormant). They are in the same fill-sand mix and get the same water and fertilizer routine as most of my other South African bulbs. Steve On 8/19/2013 10:38 AM, Russ Varnado wrote: > Does anybody have experience growing Eriospermum species? > _______________________________________________ > From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Tue, 20 Aug 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1376996926.16358.YahooMailNeo@web171305.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: Repotting Pamianthe and S. Pole-Evansii? Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 12:08:46 +0100 (BST) Is it a good idea to change soil of these two species and when? I am in particular a bit worried about my S. Pole-Evansii and Pamianthe I read somewhere that blooming can fail to happen if you damage the roots. Any advice is appreciated.   Anders B. Petersen Copenhagen Denmark From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Tue, 20 Aug 2013 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <52137193.60802@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Repotting Pamianthe and S. Pole-Evansii? Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 06:39:31 -0700 My experience with Pamianthe and Worsleya is that they don't like losing their roots and don't grow new ones very easily, so I would just be careful. I repot mine about every one to two years, let the old mix fall away, gently wash the roots, and carefully repot, with the bulbs sitting on the surface and the roots spread out and buried down the sides of the pot. I have slashed the sides of my pots to give more air to the roots. the roots don't seem to grow in the middle of the potting media, they will want to grow on the surface or at the sides. They then need staking, since the roots won't hold them upright, and they will anchor themselves after a while and the stake can be removed. I think repotting is important especially if you fertilize, since I think they are sensitive to salt build up in the potting medium, and also don't like it when the medium breaks down and compacts. Diana Telos > Is it a good idea to change soil of these two species and when? I am in particular a bit worried about my S. Pole-Evansii and Pamianthe > I read somewhere that blooming can fail to happen if you damage the roots. > Any advice is appreciated. > > Anders B. Petersen > Copenhagen > Denmark > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Tue, 20 Aug 2013 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1377007314.52318.YahooMailNeo@web171304.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: Repotting Pamianthe and S. Pole-Evansii? Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 15:01:54 +0100 (BST) Exactly Diana, that's also what I thought. But would you suggest that I replant my Pamianthe when it's in growth or is it better to wait till next spring after - hopefully flowering?    ________________________________ Fra: Diana Chapman Til: Pacific Bulb Society Sendt: 15:39 tirsdag den 20. august 2013 Emne: Re: [pbs] Repotting Pamianthe and S. Pole-Evansii? My experience with Pamianthe and Worsleya is that they don't like losing their roots and don't grow new ones very easily, so I would just be careful.  I repot mine about every one to two years, let the old mix fall away, gently wash the roots, and carefully repot, with the bulbs sitting on the surface and the roots spread out and buried down the sides of the pot.  I have slashed the sides of my pots to give more air to the roots.  the roots don't seem to grow in the middle of the potting media, they will want to grow on the surface or at the sides. They then need staking, since the roots won't hold them upright, and they will anchor themselves after a while and the stake can be removed.  I think repotting is important especially if you fertilize, since I think they are sensitive to salt build up in the potting medium, and also don't like it when the medium breaks down and compacts. Diana Telos > Is it a good idea to change soil of these two species and when? I am in particular a bit worried about my S. Pole-Evansii and Pamianthe > I read somewhere that blooming can fail to happen if you damage the roots. > Any advice is appreciated. >  > Anders B. Petersen > Copenhagen > Denmark > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hoperv@yahoo.com Tue, 20 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377016080.89562.YahooMailNeo@web161704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: Eriospermum culture Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 09:28:00 -0700 (PDT) Does anyone have experience grow Eriospermum. I live in San Francisco. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 20 Aug 2013 13:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Leaf miners in amaryllids Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 12:28:58 -0700 The following inquiry has come to the PBS website. If you have a solution for Donald Kuonen, please write to him directly. Jane McGary >X-UNC-NotifySpamByPass: True >X-IronPort-AV: E=Sophos;i="4.89,921,1367985600"; > d="scan'208";a="1018412701" >Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 07:36:19 -0700 >X-Authentication-Warning: vhost1.lb.ibiblio.org: apache set sender >to david@pilling.demon.co.uk using -f >To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:leaf miners >From: Donald Kuonen >X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >X-ELNK-AV: 0 >X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. I have >several amaryllis in pots and in the ground in Arkansas. Leaf miners >are my biggest problem. What insecticide can I use to fix this? >Thanx, Don -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: >website@pacificbulbsociety.org From jane@sonic.net Tue, 20 Aug 2013 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5213E54D.2060901@sonic.net> From: Jane Merryman Subject: leaf miners Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 14:53:17 -0700 Don Kuonen writes: I have several amaryllis in pots and in the ground in Arkansas. Leaf miners are my biggest problem. What insecticide can I use to fix this? Thanx, Don Please reply to Don at drkuonen@hotmail.com -- Read my blog at www.janemerryman.com From markemazer@gmail.com Tue, 20 Aug 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: leaf miners Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2013 20:33:15 -0400 Citrus leaf miners sometimes damage Clivia here in NE North Carolina. The damage is rarely serious. Imidacloprid and Spinosad would be in my toolbox if it became problematic. Mark Mazer Hertford, North Carolina USDA 8a On Tue, Aug 20, 2013 at 5:53 PM, Jane Merryman wrote: > Don Kuonen writes: > > I have several amaryllis in pots and in the ground in Arkansas. Leaf > miners are my biggest problem. What insecticide can I use to fix this? > Thanx, Don > > Please reply to Don at drkuonen@hotmail.com > > -- > Read my blog at > www.janemerryman.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 21 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: PBS website contact:moraea Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 09:27:17 -0700 Lisa in Australia has written to the PBS website to ask about sources of Moraea in Australia. Could some of our Australian members please contact her directly at the address below with information? Thanks, Jane McGary Membership COordinator, PBS To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:moraea >From: Lisa >X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >X-ELNK-AV: 0 >X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hi just >wondering where I can buy some moraea plants in Australia. I have a >Butterfly Iris. Thanks Lisa -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: >website@pacificbulbsociety.org From ds429@frontier.com Wed, 21 Aug 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377112620.35807.YahooMailNeo@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 343 Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 12:17:00 -0700 (PDT) Dear All,          The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.     If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 343" in the subject line.           Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.        Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:            If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:   Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA   Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.               I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !!   SEEDS   From Penny Sommerville:   1.       Cyrtanthus brachyscyphus   From Sophie Dixon:   2.        Albuca concordiana (from three different parents plants)   From Jerry Lehmann:   3.       Albuca shawii   From Rimmer de Vries:   4.       Scilla cilicica 5.       Cyclamen hederifolium   From Stephen Putman:   6.       Hippeastrum stylosum   From Leo Martin:   7.       Albuca sp? yellow and green 8.       Albuca clanwilliamae-gloria   From Monica Swartz:   9.       Lachenalia unicolor 10.   Lachenalia namaquensis 11.   Polyxena pygmaea 12.   Lachenalia viridiflora 13.   Lachenalia splendida 14.   Lachenalia bachmanii 15.   Lachenalia contaminata 16.   Lachenalia orthopetala 17.   Manfreda sileri 18.   Ferraria crispa, dark 19.   Zephyranthes minuta (syn Z. verecunda) 20.   Habranthus magnoi   From Kathleen Sayce:   21.   Erythronium revolutum , from seeds collected on Saddle Mountain, NW Oregon   From Larry Neel:   22.    Blooming/near blooming size bulbs of Lilium pardalinum ssp. pitkinense.  These are a wetland species and are almost never without roots   Thank you, Penny, Sophie, Jerry, Rimmer, Stephen, Leo, Monica, Kathleen, and Larry !!   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX From ruiyyang@yahoo.com Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <9031B205-2D10-4FDC-A1E1-AA0CBBE4651C@yahoo.com> From: Ray Subject: Hippeastrum mandonii pollen Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 18:43:14 -0400 Hi, all: My Hippeastrum mandonii is sending up a scape right now, I am wondering if anyone has its pollen available. If so, please email me privately, I can either trade or buy. Thanks. Ray From jshields@indy.net Wed, 21 Aug 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130821185421.032d1558@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Hippeastrum mandonii pollen Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 18:56:07 -0400 Hi Ray, My mandonii is self-fertile, so you can try self-pollinating as a last resort to get seeds of pure mandonii. My stored pollen of mandonii is years out of date; I need to throw it out and store fresh. Jim Shields At 06:43 PM 8/21/2013 -0400, you wrote: >Hi, all: > >My Hippeastrum mandonii is sending up a scape right now, I am wondering if >anyone has its pollen available. If so, please email me privately, I can >either trade or buy. Thanks. > >Ray >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From othonna@gmail.com Wed, 21 Aug 2013 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Hippeastrum mandonii pollen Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 21:39:37 -0700 Jim, How many years old is the pollen? I've used pollen five years old, stored in snap vials in the household freezer, that yielded very good (hybrid) results. Dylan On 21 August 2013 15:56, J.E. Shields wrote: > Hi Ray, > > My mandonii is self-fertile, so you can try self-pollinating as a last > resort to get seeds of pure mandonii. My stored pollen of mandonii is > years out of date; I need to throw it out and store fresh. > > Jim Shields > > > At 06:43 PM 8/21/2013 -0400, you wrote: > > >Hi, all: > > > >My Hippeastrum mandonii is sending up a scape right now, I am wondering if > >anyone has its pollen available. If so, please email me privately, I can > >either trade or buy. Thanks. > > > >Ray > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- * "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."Proverbs 14:23 * From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 21 Aug 2013 23:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Cochicum material for research Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2013 23:12:18 -0700 Hi, A researcher in Korea is looking for Colchicum material. If you could help, please contact her privately. Thanks, Nhu ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: nguyen pham anh thi Date: Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 7:24 PM Subject: PBS website contact:ask help, nho giup do To: xerantheum@gmail.com HI, I am Thi, and studying Ph.D in Korea. My research is Colchicaceae. I saw this website, it gives me more information and picture about Colchicaceae. I would like to ask some question Can I loan or buy some bulbs or plants ? If I want to collect sample, could I ask any help? because they used to take picture and know where it is? Thank you very much I hope can receive your reply I really need your help, It is really difficult for me to collect samples by myself. So if you can help me, I would like to pay all the fee for collection trip. Best regard, thi -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Thu, 22 Aug 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <52161F3A.6040409@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Hippeastrum mandonii pollen Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2013 07:24:58 -0700 I do have some. Send me your address. Diana Telos > Hi, all: > > My Hippeastrum mandonii is sending up a scape right now, I am wondering if anyone has its pollen available. If so, please email me privately, I can either trade or buy. Thanks. > > Ray > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ds429@frontier.com Fri, 23 Aug 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1377255865.3760.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX 343 CLOSED Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 04:04:25 -0700 (PDT) Packages should go out within the week.   Enjoy, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX From rbartontx@yahoo.com Fri, 23 Aug 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1377289862.40224.YahooMailNeo@web124504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rodney Barton Subject: Neomarica in New Zealand Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2013 13:31:02 -0700 (PDT) Can anyone tell me what species of Neomarica are available in New Zealand? I'm interested in anything that goes by the name even if it's may be incorrectly identified as to genus or species. Thanks! Rodney From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 23 Aug 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5217CE8A.2080408@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Neomarica in New Zealand Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 09:05:14 +1200 Have you tried Anne Murray, Bill Dijk, Tony Palmer to name a few Rodney? Ina On 24/08/2013 8:31 a.m., Rodney Barton wrote: > Can anyone tell me what species of Neomarica are available in New Zealand? I'm interested in anything that goes by the name even if it's may be incorrectly identified as to genus or species. > > Thanks! > Rodney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From threesisters@woosh.co.nz Fri, 23 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <3B7302D42AE24BCD9ECC2051881E0BDE@DarleneHP> From: Subject: Neomarica in New Zealand Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 09:08:04 +1200 Hello Rodney and Ina, Just about to make some phone calls for you, will check with those listed below and also the regional botanic gardens. You should soon have a list. Darlene Cook Auckland, New Zealand -----Original Message----- From: Ina Crossley Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 9:05 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Neomarica in New Zealand Have you tried Anne Murray, Bill Dijk, Tony Palmer to name a few Rodney? Ina On 24/08/2013 8:31 a.m., Rodney Barton wrote: > Can anyone tell me what species of Neomarica are available in New Zealand? > I'm interested in anything that goes by the name even if it's may be > incorrectly identified as to genus or species. > > Thanks! > Rodney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From talk-noreply@google.com Sat, 24 Aug 2013 03:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Google Talk Subject: Invitation to use Google Talk Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 02:29:06 -0700 ----------------------------------------------------------------------- You've been invited by Peter Taggart to use Google Talk. If you already have a Google account, login to Gmail and accept this chat invitation: http://mail.google.com/mail/invite/ANGjdJ_S6Bfi03cmoS22MmgAcP_7P4VAOyDVPbOiJyzYfht67Dv1EehhHxrYdXu4Jy2LL-TtFA54uBC7b852 To sign up for a Google account and get started with Google Talk, you can visit: http://mail.google.com/mail/invite/ANGjdJ8TTR5a8fZN_JW2OhUjTfgnIyy4p3-LzEm995wfPJP0hG0UxU8ApsRIEwpK0K3udRx11V1DuEZYvQcU?pc=en-rf---a Learn more at: http://www.google.com/intl/en/landing/accounts/ Thanks, The Google Team From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 24 Aug 2013 03:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Spea humilis Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 10:33:42 +0100 I have been looking for material of Spea humilis for several years. Is there anyone who might know of a source or be able to sell to, or swap with me, for a few seeds or a bulb or two? Peter Taggart (UK) From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 24 Aug 2013 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: apology for Google chat invitation Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 11:22:38 +0100 I appologise that I clicked on some kind of invitation to 'Google chat' whilst looking for an email address. Apparently this invitation went to the entire PBS list. It was unintentional and partly due to Google mail changing its format yet again. Peter (UK) From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 24 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Speea humilis -was Spea humilis Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 19:35:44 +0100 It seem that I spelt the name wrong and that my earlier post asking of Spea humilis should be for Speea humilis, perhaps related to Gethyum and from south america. http://www.flickr.com/photos/83612917@N00/5399392449/in/photolist-9e8igg-62ZYJx-635hoA-6311E6-635hEd-6xpuLi-6xtEbG-6xtD1w-6xtERq-6xtCPW-6xptTT-6xpuEn-6xtCtS-6xtCCL-6xtF21-6xpuok-6xtCV5-6xtF7G-6xpv2M-6xpu9i-6xtDLj-6xpvdT-6xtFkY-6xpsZV-6xptXT-6xpudF-6xtDqJ-6xpuWZ-6xptNM-6xtDg9-6xpuz2-6xtDm5-6xtE23-6xtD6f-6xtDbA-6xpwwz-6xpvRD-6xpwrg-6xtFEd-6xpwcF-6xtFJA-6xtFYA-6xtG4o-6xtGih-6xpw7V-6xpwHt-6xpvKR-6xtEyJ-635jdf-6315Ji-6312ix Peter (UK) On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > I have been looking for material of Spea humilis for several years. Is > there anyone who might know of a source or be able to sell to, or swap with > me, for a few seeds or a bulb or two? > Peter Taggart (UK) > From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Sat, 24 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1185613314.15865.1377380856466.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j09> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Clivia miniata associates Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 23:47:36 +0200 (CEST) Hello all, I am trying to find out what Clivia miniata grows with in its' natural habitat. Can anyone shed some light? Many thanks for any help. Mark  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Sat, 24 Aug 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20130825025526.13C29E8CA4@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Clivia miniata associates Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2013 19:55:17 -0700 There are a few habitat photos on the wiki. We saw it on our "jungle" hike with Cameron, memorable as there were parts of it where I thought it might be safer to slide down the trail rather than walk down and before I had a chance to decide I found myself doing that anyway as I slipped. There were low trees, ferns, plants growing on branches of trees.I'll send you privately our plant list from that day, but some of the plants were seen in other places that day that were more open. Mary Sue From idavide@sbcglobal.net Sun, 25 Aug 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377466988.45431.YahooMailNeo@web181502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: Speea humilis -was Spea humilis Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 14:43:08 -0700 (PDT) I was not able to discover any source for Speea seed.  Perhaps some of our South American members might be able to obtain seed for you.  The most informative article I could find on the genus was http://www.chlorischile.cl/Monocotiledoneas/speea_gen.htm It puts the plant in the family Gilliesiaceae which APG III reduces to a tribe in subfamily Allioideae of Amaryllidaceae. It will help with your spelling to know that the genus was named in honor of WWI admiral Maximilian Graf von Spee.  It is interesting to note that in Chile he is remembered as the winner of the battle of Coronel off the coast of Chile, whereas in the UK he is remembered as the loser of the battle of the Falklands. David E. From: Peter Taggart >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2013 11:35 AM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Speea humilis -was Spea humilis > > >It seem that I spelt the name wrong and that my earlier post asking of Spea >humilis should be for Speea humilis, perhaps related to Gethyum and from >south america. >http://www.flickr.com/photos/83612917@N00/5399392449/in/photolist-9e8igg-62ZYJx-635hoA-6311E6-635hEd-6xpuLi-6xtEbG-6xtD1w-6xtERq-6xtCPW-6xptTT-6xpuEn-6xtCtS-6xtCCL-6xtF21-6xpuok-6xtCV5-6xtF7G-6xpv2M-6xpu9i-6xtDLj-6xpvdT-6xtFkY-6xpsZV-6xptXT-6xpudF-6xtDqJ-6xpuWZ-6xptNM-6xtDg9-6xpuz2-6xtDm5-6xtE23-6xtD6f-6xtDbA-6xpwwz-6xpvRD-6xpwrg-6xtFEd-6xpwcF-6xtFJA-6xtFYA-6xtG4o-6xtGih-6xpw7V-6xpwHt-6xpvKR-6xtEyJ-635jdf-6315Ji-6312ix >Peter (UK) > > >On Sat, Aug 24, 2013 at 10:33 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > >> I have been looking for material of Spea humilis for several years. Is >> there anyone who might know of a source or be able to sell to, or swap with >> me, for a few seeds or a bulb or two? >> Peter Taggart (UK) >> >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 25 Aug 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377474185.34660.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Speea humilis -was Spea humilis Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2013 16:43:05 -0700 (PDT) Thanks, David, for the background information. For those of you who don't do German, von Spee is pronounced "fon shpay". Jim McKenney From hoperv@yahoo.com Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1377537227.4129.YahooMailNeo@web161701.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Russ Varnado Subject: How to acclimate South African Bulbs.? Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:13:47 -0700 (PDT) What is the best was to acclimate bulbs from South Africa to San Francisco? From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 26 Aug 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: How to acclimate South African Bulbs.? Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 18:38:19 +0100 Hi, In message <1377537227.4129.YahooMailNeo@web161701.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>, Russ Varnado writes >What is the best was to acclimate bulbs from South Africa to San Francisco? There has been past discussion here - some examples: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2007-May/3cubu5hd2ci71ev3nujfeqepd1.html http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2005-August/frv6tjiqhmm9l57vdq22idhqv5.html http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2012-November/h37optfir0fc04v5ibk0bvbbd4.html http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2007-May/hhkmslcaovdk9v0ae33p7d5ls0.html -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 26 Aug 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377544252.35835.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Colchicum × agrippinum "Old Portland garden form" and C. 'Disraeli' Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2013 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT) In 2006 I received through Jane McGary's surplus bulb distribution some corms of a plant Jane described as  Colchicum × agrippinum "Old Portland garden form". Whether from modesty about her discovery or some other reason, she has always described it in rather restrained terms.  It's blooming here now, and after seeing it in bloom for eight years, I've come to regard it as one of the best colchicums in my collection. Unlike the usual commercial agrippinum, which often produces malformed, twisted tepals of poor, smudged color, this one produces well colored blooms with nearly flat tepals with a pattern of tessellation nearly as clear as that of the two forms of Colchicum variegatum I have grown. And it's a lot easier to grow than C. variegatum. Those of you who like these tessellated colchicums will surely appreciate this one.  And from 2004 came another favorite: the plant she distributed as Colchicum 'Disraeli' which, as I recall, she got from Antoine Hoog. The name 'Disraeli' has been common enough on commercial lists of colchciums over the years, but the plant Jane distributed is, in my view, the handsomest hybrid colchicum I've ever grown. The flowers are big, the color is rich and the tessellation is clear.  I hope the rest of you who got these plants from Jane have been able to keep them going. I'm not aware of commercial sources for these, and of the hybrid colchicums I know, these two in particular deserve to be carefully preserved for future generations of bulb growers.  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 27 Aug 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum × agrippinum "Old Portland garden form" and C. 'Disraeli' Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 20:04:45 -0700 On Jim McKenney's post on two colchicums he got from me: The C. x agrippinum "Old Portland garden form" was confirmed as a hybrid of that type, and distinct from the Dutch stock, by Antoine Hoog some years ago. I got my corms from a plantswoman's garden that was established in the 1930s and passed into the ownership of a friend of mine. (Said plantswoman was "Pokey" Bayliss, commemorated in the popular Ribes sanguineum selection 'Pokey's Pink'.) She sold the property to the city for a greenway, as it was subject to frequent flooding, and told me to come and get the colchicums I had admired. We dug them up from below 18 inches/45 cm of flood-deposited silt and they were very elongated, but still growing. In the garden they improved very much. Their main difference from the usual cultivar is that the Portland plants have brighter green leaves, while the Dutch plants have more glaucous leaves, more similar to C. variegatum. Possibly Jim's disappointment with his commercial bulbs is the result of their being infected with a virus; I have received 'Waterlily' on two occasions that showed virus symptoms. My Dutch agrippinum stock, from Hoog & Dix, appears healthy, though. Incidentally, I grow two accessions of C. variegatum from wild seed, and one of them multiplies while the other does not. Otherwise they appear similar. It probably requires a real Mediterranean climate to succeed. I think tessellation (checkering) in most of the large hybrids comes from C. bivonae, which is variable. Many of the smaller species are very checkered but probably have not been used in breeding. Too bad as they are great plants. Colchicum hierosolymitanum is showing its spots at the moment here, and this summer I was able to send seed of it to a PBS member in its eponymous city, Jerusalem. I got the cultivar 'Disraeli' through the list of Hoog & Dix, now Dix Export (strictly wholesale). I just gave some stock of this large hybrid to Mark Akimoff of Illahe Nursery, a PBS member, so probably he will be able to sell them in a year or two. Mark also has the Portland agrippinum, and I have plenty of it in my new garden. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA Jim wrote: >In 2006 I received through Jane McGary's surplus >bulb distribution some corms of a plant Jane >described as Colchicum × agrippinum "Old >Portland garden form". ...Unlike the usual >commercial agrippinum, which often produces >malformed, twisted tepals of poor, smudged >color, this one produces well colored blooms >with nearly flat tepals with a pattern of >tessellation nearly as clear as that of the two >forms of Colchicum variegatum I have grown. ... >The name 'Disraeli' has been common enough on >commercial lists of colchciums over the years, >but the plant Jane distributed is, in my view, >the handsomest hybrid colchicum I've ever grown. >The flowers are big, the color is rich and the tessellation is clear. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 28 Aug 2013 09:17:09 -0700 Message-Id: <1377704057.30404.YahooMailNeo@web121302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: × Amarcrinum Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 08:34:17 -0700 (PDT) The × Amarcrinum are beginning to bloom here. In an earlier post I think I described Lycoris squamigera as our compensation for not being able to grow Amaryllis belladonna. But it's really the × Amarcrinum which fills that role. It has taken me a long time to accept this as a reliable garden plant, but reliable it evidently is.  Who else has this plant blooming in the garden now? Jim McKenney Montgomery County Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From antigre10@yahoo.gr Wed, 28 Aug 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377707375.61364.YahooMailNeo@web171503.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Antigoni Rentzeperis Subject: Σχετ: × Amarcrinum Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 17:29:35 +0100 (BST) My x Amarcrinum " Howardii" finished blooming a few days ago, this is the second year it flowered. http://s1201.photobucket.com/user/anti25/media/2013/DSCN9787_zpsa275010f.jpg.html Antigoni   Gythio Greece ________________________________ Απο: Jim McKenney Προς: Pacific Bulb Society Στάλθηκε: 6:34 μ.μ. Τετάρτη, 28 Αυγούστου 2013 Θέμα: [pbs] × Amarcrinum The × Amarcrinum are beginning to bloom here. In an earlier post I think I described Lycoris squamigera as our compensation for not being able to grow Amaryllis belladonna. But it's really the × Amarcrinum which fills that role. It has taken me a long time to accept this as a reliable garden plant, but reliable it evidently is.  Who else has this plant blooming in the garden now? Jim McKenney Montgomery County Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1377719779.32681.YahooMailNeo@web121304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Σχετ: × Amarcrinum Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 12:56:19 -0700 (PDT) Thanks, Antigoni.  The latitude of Gythio is about 36.76, the latitude of Rockville, where I live, is about 39.08; that means Gythio is about 160 miles south of Rockville.  Raleigh, North Carolina is about latitude 35.81, south of both Rockville and Gythio. So if latitude has anything to do with the blooming of this plant, then plants in the Raleigh, North Carolina area and areas south of that should have been blooming for awhile.  Any comments from those south of Antigoni and me?   Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Tony@plantdelights.com Wed, 28 Aug 2013 13:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Σχετ: × Amarcrinum Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 16:05:07 -0400 Jim: Most of the x amarcrinum cultivars have been flowering for several weeks here in Raleigh. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jim McKenney Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2013 3:56 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Σχετ: × Amarcrinum Thanks, Antigoni.  The latitude of Gythio is about 36.76, the latitude of Rockville, where I live, is about 39.08; that means Gythio is about 160 miles south of Rockville.  Raleigh, North Carolina is about latitude 35.81, south of both Rockville and Gythio. So if latitude has anything to do with the blooming of this plant, then plants in the Raleigh, North Carolina area and areas south of that should have been blooming for awhile.  Any comments from those south of Antigoni and me?   Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 28 Aug 2013 19:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: How to acclimate South African Bulbs.? Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 01:18:52 +0000 In the Bay Area (more exactly, Concord) Stan Farwig an Victor Girard assembled one of the largest South African bulbs collection ever, grown from seed. From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 28 Aug 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: How to acclimate South African Bulbs.? Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2013 19:14:05 -0700 > What is the best was to acclimate bulbs from South Africa to San Francisco? Russ, The Bay Area is IMHO one of the best places in the world for synchronizing imported South African bulbs (and the same goes for their recalcitrant seeds). Our late Bay Area summer (Sept-early October), mid-winter sunny spells (late Jan-Feb), summer fog (June-Aug) all make it much easier to give bulbs a dose of whatever season they are expecting whenever they arrive here. 1) If the bulb has started growth in transit: I plant it in moist media, put it in a cool/shady location that only gets early morning or late afternoon sun and begin watering. If the bulb arrives in late summer, I am "starting winter early" and will water until regular winter rains make it unecessary. If the bulb arrives in winter or early spring, I will water the plants even after winter rains stop if the foliage stays green. In both cases, I will stop watering when the new bulb starts going dormant (and protect it from rain if necessary) until the next fall. 2) If the bulb has not started growth in transit: I will plant it in dry media, put it in a cool/shady location, and let it sit until the next falls rains wake the bulb up naturally. Bulbs are pre-adapted to handle an extra-long drought in their natural habitat but are not really physiologically capable of resuming growth too quickly after their last growing season. Relatedly, I would opine that SA bulbs are always more vulnerable to rotting from ill-timed moisture than they are to dying due to too much aridity. If a new bulb tries to bloom in its first year, I actively prevent seed-set through non-pollination and/or removal of the fertilized ovaries - no need to stress the bulb with the rigors of producing resource-intensive seeds the first growing season after import. It can take a few seasons for a bulb to get fully synched. You may need to start water early or water into the dry season for bulbs that wake-up at the wrong times for more than their first season - but I find most bulbs are in-synch within 1.5-2 years after they arrive. -| From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: new issue of International Rock Gardener Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 19:03:26 +0100 IRG 44 August 2013 This month World of Bulbs features late summer/autumn crocus from J. Ian Young, writer of the Bulb Log, along with some photos of these in the wild from Johan Nilson of Gothenburg Botanic Garden. We also follow the renewal of the garden in British Columbia of our late colleague Joyce Carruthers by her daughter Amanda with the help of Zdenek Zvolanek and friends. Trond Høy describes the plants seen on Svalbard in the north west of Norway, a region he has visited several times, the first time as a student back in 1977. Trond lives in Rogaland and is a keen gardener as well as observer of the native flora and fauna. M. Young From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Thu, 29 Aug 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8AE2F8DA7E104354A45147AA319B96F4@yourfe7fbfa660> From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: new issue of International Rock Gardener Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 19:33:58 +0100 IRG 44 August 2013 My apologies, I should have given the route to the IRG. The IRG is online only - free for all to read, like the Bulb Log. The issue for August is here : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2013Aug291377798656IRG44August.pdf Page for all IRG listings: http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international M. Young From ksayce@willapabay.org Sat, 31 Aug 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Alliums Date: Sat, 31 Aug 2013 14:21:15 -0700 Admiring the late-summer-flowering alliums in my garden today, I noticed a blooming seedling in a pot labeled Allium sanbornii, which appears to be a young chives. This is not a catastrophe; I'll plant it elsewhere in my garden and extend my chives collection. I would still like to grow the former, and hope that those who collect seeds from their alliums will keep the PBS exchange in mind this year. Then I reread some of Mark's postings on the genus Allium in the PBS archive, and realized anew that there are 100s of alliums I'd like to grow, including A. sanbornii. Do get busy, those among PBS who grow alliums, and send seeds to Dell for the rest of us to try. Meanwhile, the Allium pages have grown to a truly impressive collection, and they are seriously worth rereading. Does anyone know of a source for some of the taller Allium cernuum plants (60 cm tall) that Mark mentioned? Cheers, Kathleen Pacific Northwest, zone 8, mild wet winters, mild foggy summers