From ramato2210@gmail.com Sat, 01 Feb 2014 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: romain amato Subject: 2. Re: Potting Paramongaia (Peter Taggart) Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2014 16:21:31 +0100 Hello, I've bought this year 2 bulbs of Paramongaia, , I get them in july and they were dormant. They came from New zeland. I live in France and it's now winter, but here, in Paris, temperatures are above 0°C , and my bulbs are sprouting. They were in a dark room at about 5°. May I take them outdoors or indoor at bedroom temperature? Cheers Romain Amato Paris, France From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 01 Feb 2014 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: 2. Re: Potting Paramongaia (Peter Taggart) Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2014 16:04:04 +0000 Make sure they are thoroughly dry for as long as you can you can before letting them sprout in your spring. If you let it grow at its will it is possible it will not change the growth pattern to your hemisphere's (which is essential to the plant survival and eventual flower production). A bedroom is a great place to store winter dormant bulbs. Under the bed, they say. From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 01 Feb 2014 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: 2. Re: Potting Paramongaia (Peter Taggart) Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2014 16:33:17 +0000 I defer to Alberto's experience with this plant. Receiving it from New Zealand, dormant, in July, it is fairly certain to be the Summer growing form. I would only add that with the early Spring in this part of Europe, combined with ?warm conditions in the house, your plant is only a little ahead of season and should continue to grow through the Summer. I would not put it outside, in any part of northern Europe, until April or May. I do not expect emerging leaves on my plant for another two months. Peter (UK) On Sat, Feb 1, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Alberto wrote: > Make sure they are thoroughly dry for as long as you can you can before > letting them sprout in your spring. > From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 02 Feb 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <27539085.986728.1391363917356.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Treasurer's notes Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2014 11:58:37 -0600 (CST) We are in the process of compiling the list for sending out reminder post cards for membership renewal. If you haven't already renewed now is the time to do it. Doing it now will save some time and expense for the Society. Also your participation may be interrupted in the BX/SX if your membership has lapsed. Also, we have a couple of copies of Graham Duncan's book 'Grow Bulbs' still available. The cost is $45.00 for US members and $40.00 plus postage for Overseas members. We cannot accept payment in any currency except US dollars. US members will have the book mailed via Media Mail. PBS Membership Director Jane McGary has a review of Graham's book in the Bulb Garden Spring 2011 Vol. 10 issue 2 Our forum member John Grimshaw has a note about the book on his Blog. http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/2010/11/grow-bulbs-by-graham-duncan.html You may pay via PayPal to pbs.treasury@verizon.net or via check to the address indicated below. Please mark you PayPal payment or check memo as Grow Bulbs. Overseas members please inquire about price prior to payment Arnold Treasurer, PBS From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 02 Feb 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Crinum 'Olene' Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2014 10:12:21 -0800 We have an inquiry to the PBS website from a docent at a botanical garden concerning Crinum 'Olene'. She would like to know more about this, which I assume is a hybrid selection. Does anyone grow it and know its origin? Thanks, Jane McGary From Tony@plantdelights.com Sun, 02 Feb 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Crinum 'Olene' Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 13:25:40 -0500 Jane: Here's a link that should help. http://www.plantdelights.com/Crinum-Ollene-for-sale/Buy-Crinum-Lily/ Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Gardens 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina  27603  USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website  http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax  919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jane McGary Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 1:12 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Crinum 'Olene' We have an inquiry to the PBS website from a docent at a botanical garden concerning Crinum 'Olene'. She would like to know more about this, which I assume is a hybrid selection. Does anyone grow it and know its origin? Thanks, Jane McGary From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Sun, 02 Feb 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <320B9E90D4D2439C929CEB5418751175@yourfe7fbfa660> From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: International Rock Gardener e-magazine - major Eranthis article Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 20:47:20 -0000 International Rock Gardener e-magazine - January 2014 IRG 49 : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Jan291391022895IRG49.pdf This month the IRG breaks with habit to present a single genus issue. Eranthis, ( also known, confusingly, as is often the case with common names, as Winter Aconites) are one of the delights of late winter ad early spring in the garden. Wim Boens explores the main species and a number of cultivars of this increasingly popular plant. Wild flowers tend to be all the more beautiful by their habit of carpeting the ground and in Carolyn Walker's blog*** ( http://carolynsshadegardens.com/category/bulbs-for-shade/page/2/ ) she shows how charming Eranthis in quantity can be. For most of the new cultivars, though, these are still being enjoyed, for the most part, as small plants in pots but in time these plants should prove to be as valuable in our gardens as the presently more widespread species. Even as Wim has collated his lists of cultivars, yet more are being shown in the pages of the SRGC Forum as well as examples of variants in the species.( www.srgc.net ) The main IRG page where all issues are available: http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international Whether your winter is still in full flow or your spring is just beginning we hope you will enjoy this IRG devoted to these tuberous members of the Ranunculaceae. M. Y. ***The cultivar 'Lightning' was actually selected from the park that Carolyn profiled in her post..... small world, isn't it? From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 02 Feb 2014 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Rain Lilies Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 23:36:58 +0000 Habranthus irwinianus? http://www.flickr.com/photos/21778401@N08/3096245558/ Habranthus andalgalensis? here http://rvision.daydreamlabs.com/user/43686929@N06/photostream and here https://www.google.com/search?q=habranthus+andalgalensis&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=29TuUoG-C4yjhge1zIGwAg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1344&bih=589#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=zfzSWXp9yuKuOM%253A%3BiDz45donZqzNUM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fpsimg.jstor.org%252Ffsi%252Fimg%252Fsize1%252Falukaplant%252Fsi%252Fphase_01%252Fsi0008%252Fsi033208.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fplants.jstor.org%252Fspecimen%252Fsi033208%253Fhistory%253Dtrue%3B200%3B278 this was just a search, I know little of these plants Peter (UK) On Sun, Jan 19, 2014 at 10:35 PM, James SHIELDS wrote: > Does anyone know the color of the flowers of these rain lily species? > > Habranthus andalgalensis > Habranthus irwinianus > Habranthus longipes > Habranthus microcarpus > > Any help would be appreciated. > > From totototo@telus.net Mon, 03 Feb 2014 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52EF6AD5.27352.2558@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Cosmos atrosanguineus Date: Mon, 3 Feb 2014 10:09:25 -0800 David Pilling wrote me privately on Jan 14 before posting Sarah Bettany's query about Cosmos atrosanguineus to the mailing list on Jan 28. The primary issue is the source of the information that wild collected seeds were sent to the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden. I've looked through my email archive at some length and checked for any aides de memoire I may have made, but regrettably I did not record where I found that information. It may be that in my memory I confused the Santa Ana garden with the Huntington Gardens. The two likeliest candidates as sources of this possibly-garbled information are (a) Google searches on "Cosmos atrosanguineus" and (b) discussion on the forums of the Scottish Rock Garden Club. For the Google searches, it will be necessary to dig far beyond the first page of results if anyone wishes to track this down. I have a clear recollection of unearthing reports of finding this elusive plant in at least four different sites in Mexico and locating these sites at the Google map of Mexico. I *did* record these four sites in a memoir; they are Jalisco San Luis Potosi (extinct, but being re-introduced) Guanajuato Zimapan, Hidalgo (type) In 2006, Fred Boutin reported on finding this growing in Jalisco: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2006- July/ub8es5snq4622anrcjfjevmdc2.html I could tear my hair out over not being able to substantiate the remarks I've made on the PBS list about this. That'll teach me not to bookmark such things! -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Mon, 03 Feb 2014 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52F023AC.6080209@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: International Rock Gardener e-magazine - major Eranthis article Date: Mon, 03 Feb 2014 23:18:04 +0000 My apologies - I have included a rather vague link to Carolyn Walker's blog on Eranthis - here is a much more direct route to the piece : http://carolynsshadegardens.com/2012/02/21/a-wonder-of-nature/ Thank you for all those contacting both the IRG Team amd Wim Boens with compliments on the January issue. MY. From gardenpt@aol.com Tue, 04 Feb 2014 21:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F0414A195403-2778-64B8@webmail-m204.sysops.aol.com> From: gardenpt@aol.com Subject: Treasurer's notes -- need details, please Date: Tue, 4 Feb 2014 23:24:26 -0500 (EST) Arnold, Please advise re fee & address to send for membership renewal. Jean Natter Portland, OR -----Original Message----- From: arnold140 To: pbs Sent: Sun, Feb 2, 2014 9:58 am Subject: [pbs] Treasurer's notes We are in the process of compiling the list for sending out reminder post cards for membership renewal. If you haven't already renewed now is the time to do it. Doing it now will save some time and expense for the Society. Also your participation may be interrupted in the BX/SX if your membership has lapsed. Also, we have a couple of copies of Graham Duncan's book 'Grow Bulbs' still available. The cost is $45.00 for US members and $40.00 plus postage for Overseas members. We cannot accept payment in any currency except US dollars. US members will have the book mailed via Media Mail. PBS Membership Director Jane McGary has a review of Graham's book in the Bulb Garden Spring 2011 Vol. 10 issue 2 Our forum member John Grimshaw has a note about the book on his Blog. http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/2010/11/grow-bulbs-by-graham-duncan.html You may pay via PayPal to pbs.treasury@verizon.net or via check to the address indicated below. Please mark you PayPal payment or check memo as Grow Bulbs. Overseas members please inquire about price prior to payment Arnold Treasurer, PBS From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 05 Feb 2014 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <19078318.3497.1391608602867.JavaMail.root@vznit170170> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Treasurer's notes -- need details, please Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2014 07:56:42 -0600 (CST) Jean: You can send via PayPal to pbs.treasury@verizon.net or via regular mail to: PBS c/o Arnold Trachtenberg 140 Lakeview Avenue Leonia, New Jersey 07605 Arnold On 02/04/14, gardenpt@aol.com wrote: Arnold, Please advise re fee & address to send for membership renewal. Jean Natter Portland, OR -----Original Message----- From: arnold140 To: pbs Sent: Sun, Feb 2, 2014 9:58 am Subject: [pbs] Treasurer's notes We are in the process of compiling the list for sending out reminder post cards for membership renewal. If you haven't already renewed now is the time to do it. Doing it now will save some time and expense for the Society. Also your participation may be interrupted in the BX/SX if your membership has lapsed. Also, we have a couple of copies of Graham Duncan's book 'Grow Bulbs' still available. The cost is $45.00 for US members and $40.00 plus postage for Overseas members. We cannot accept payment in any currency except US dollars. US members will have the book mailed via Media Mail. PBS Membership Director Jane McGary has a review of Graham's book in the Bulb Garden Spring 2011 Vol. 10 issue 2 Our forum member John Grimshaw has a note about the book on his Blog. http://johngrimshawsgardendiary.blogspot.com/2010/11/grow-bulbs-by-graham-duncan.html You may pay via PayPal to pbs.treasury@verizon.net or via check to the address indicated below. Please mark you PayPal payment or check memo as Grow Bulbs. Overseas members please inquire about price prior to payment Arnold Treasurer, PBS From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 05 Feb 2014 07:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Treasurer's notes -- need details, please Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 14:29:45 +0000 Hi, >Please advise re fee & address to send for membership renewal. Also summarised with a link to click for PayPal on this web page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html US Residents $20, rest of the world $25. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From jane@sonic.net Wed, 05 Feb 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52F25D7E.6010606@sonic.net> From: Jane Merryman Subject: Moraea tortilis Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2014 07:49:18 -0800 Julia Glen, who lives in Oceanside, California, has sent this query: Hi, I am very interested in purchasing \"Moraea tortilis\". Would you please advise where this can be purchased. Thank you, Julia Glen juliaglen@hotmail.com Please reply directly to Julia. -- Read my blog at www.janemerryman.com From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed, 05 Feb 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <0f2701cf229f$bbb7c0c0$33274240$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulbs blooming early (was: Mild winter) Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 10:26:04 -0800 About a month ago, My wrote to the list asking if bulbs were blooming early this year in California. I wrote back saying that everything here in San Jose was on schedule. My, I apologize. I was wrong. Although my fall-blooming stuff was on schedule, many of the spring blooming bulbs are now blooming a month or more ahead of schedule. The spring Moraeas are now starting to bloom, and several spring Romuleas are in full bloom. Most of these would bloom in March in a typical year. I don't know if the cause is the dry weather we've had for much of the winter, or the milder average temps (other than a nasty freeze at the end of last year), or something else. But definitely stuff is blooming early. Back in December I was worried that the freeze might actually delay blooming. Shows how much I know ;-) Is anyone else seeing early blooms this year? Mike San Jose, CA Zone 9, min temp 20F (-7C) From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed, 05 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Bulbs blooming early (was: Mild winter) Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 13:40:09 -0800 Michael, Have you had a chance to see if wildflowers are also blooming early? I used to be able to check a website aimed at people wanting to photograph California wildflowers. The data was emailed in by many observers and collated by a woman who stopped doing it a couple of years ago as some people who were using her site were damaging the plants. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada On 2014-02-05, at 10:26 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > I don't know if the cause is the dry weather we've had for much of the > winter, or the milder average temps (other than a nasty freeze at the end of > last year), or something else. But definitely stuff is blooming early. > From plantsman@comcast.net Wed, 05 Feb 2014 15:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <20140205223633.533B5E8B59@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Bulbs flowering early (was: Mild winter) Date: Wed, 05 Feb 2014 14:36:38 -0800 While I have never been one to monitor the timing of blooms (i.e. epicuticular wax), the flowering times for many cultivated spring flowering plants are significantly ahead of schedule across Northern California. Moraeas and Romuleas both undoubtedly flower primarily in response to vernalization. The accelerated accumulation of chilling hours across Northern California this year is the likely cause of their early flowering times: http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/Weather_Services/chilling_accumulation_models/Chill_Calculators/index.cfm The recent mild day time temperatures in January were very deceiving since the night temperatures were consistently far below normal, and the nights are much longer now and in January. Many recording locations are well over 100 chilling hours ahead of last year, another above average year in chilling accumulation. Even though these data do not represent soil temperatures, they are very indicative of vernalization accumulation. If anything, these data grossly under estimate this year's true vernalization accumulation since air temperature hours below 32F (0C) are not counted. Although the optimal vernalization temperature and duration can significantly vary from species to species, it's all relative. Everything is going to get vernalized sooner and therefore flower sooner this year in Northern California. Of course, I'm only talking about flowering plants that have access to water. Nathan At 10:26 AM 2/5/2014, you wrote: >About a month ago, My wrote to the list asking if bulbs were blooming early >this year in California. I wrote back saying that everything here in San >Jose was on schedule. > >My, I apologize. I was wrong. > >Although my fall-blooming stuff was on schedule, many of the spring blooming >bulbs are now blooming a month or more ahead of schedule. The spring Moraeas >are now starting to bloom, and several spring Romuleas are in full bloom. >Most of these would bloom in March in a typical year. > >I don't know if the cause is the dry weather we've had for much of the >winter, or the milder average temps (other than a nasty freeze at the end of >last year), or something else. But definitely stuff is blooming early. > >Back in December I was worried that the freeze might actually delay >blooming. Shows how much I know ;-) > >Is anyone else seeing early blooms this year? > >Mike >San Jose, CA >Zone 9, min temp 20F (-7C) > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 05 Feb 2014 15:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1391640955.92768.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Bulbs flowering early (was: Mild winter) Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 14:55:55 -0800 (PST) Nathan, were you making a pun with your reference to epicuticular wax, or were you suggesting that there is something to be learned with respect to time of bloom by observing the condition of epicuticular wax?  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7   On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 5:36 PM, Nathan Lange wrote: While I have never been one to monitor the timing of blooms (i.e. epicuticular wax), the flowering times for many cultivated spring flowering plants are significantly ahead of schedule across Northern California. Moraeas and Romuleas both undoubtedly flower primarily in response to vernalization. The accelerated accumulation of chilling hours across Northern California this year is the likely cause of their early flowering times: http://fruitsandnuts.ucdavis.edu/Weather_Services/chilling_accumulation_models/Chill_Calculators/index.cfm The recent mild day time temperatures in January were very deceiving since the night temperatures were consistently far below normal, and the nights are much longer now and in January. Many recording locations are well over 100 chilling hours ahead of last year, another above average year in chilling accumulation. Even though these data do not represent soil temperatures, they are very indicative of vernalization accumulation. If anything, these data grossly under estimate this year's true vernalization accumulation since air temperature hours below 32F (0C) are not counted. Although the optimal vernalization temperature and duration can significantly vary from species to species, it's all relative. Everything is going to get vernalized sooner and therefore flower sooner this year in Northern California. Of course, I'm only talking about flowering plants that have access to water. Nathan At 10:26 AM 2/5/2014, you wrote: >About a month ago, My wrote to the list asking if bulbs were blooming early >this year in California. I wrote back saying that everything here in San >Jose was on schedule. > >My, I apologize. I was wrong. > >Although my fall-blooming stuff was on schedule, many of the spring blooming >bulbs are now blooming a month or more ahead of schedule. The spring Moraeas >are now starting to bloom, and several spring Romuleas are in full bloom. >Most of these would bloom in March in a typical year. > >I don't know if the cause is the dry weather we've had for much of the >winter, or the milder average temps (other than a nasty freeze at the end of >last year), or something else. But definitely stuff is blooming early. > >Back in December I was worried that the freeze might actually delay >blooming. Shows how much I know ;-) > >Is anyone else seeing early blooms this year? > >Mike >San Jose, CA >Zone 9, min temp 20F (-7C) > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From michaelcmace@gmail.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <105701cf2368$c0523e20$40f6ba60$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Bulbs blooming early (was: Mild winter) Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 10:25:01 -0800 Diane wrote: >Have you had a chance to see if wildflowers are also blooming early? Alas, it's been so dry here that the hills are still brown. So virtually no wildflowers are in bloom at the moment. Nathan wrote: >Moraeas and Romuleas both undoubtedly flower primarily in response to vernalization. Aha! I hadn't even thought of that. > Many recording locations are well over 100 chilling hours ahead of last year, another above average year in chilling accumulation. Great! Maybe I'll finally get a decent cherry crop. Thanks, Mike From plantsman@comcast.net Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20140206223527.B53B9E8AA4@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Bulbs flowering early (was: Mild winter) Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2014 13:49:06 -0800 Hi Jim, I was suggesting that in a horticultural or botanical setting, derivations of the word "bloom" should be reserved for discussions concerning blooms (epicuticular wax) and are inappropriate when referring to flowers or flowering. For example: "Galanthus elwesii plants have a beautiful silvery bloom on their leaves, only outdone by their stunning flowers." or, "The flowering times of plants have no correlation with the intensity of the blooms on their leaves." or, "I will refer to the flowers on my flowering plants however I want to!" Currently, anyone attempting to search the PBS archive for information about actual blooms (epicuticular wax) must sort through a daunting number of posts about flowers and flowering that have nothing to do with blooms (epicuticular wax). But, old habits die hard and best not to mention any of this to "Blooms of Bressingham." Nathan At 02:55 PM 2/5/2014, you wrote: >Nathan, were you making a pun with your reference to epicuticular >wax, or were you suggesting that there is something to be learned >with respect to time of bloom by observing the condition of epicuticular wax? > >Jim McKenney >Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 14:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <6EAC760A-6DBD-4884-A3AA-707D5E04F0CA@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 16:15:13 -0600 Dear PBSers, I have been watching the growth of very fine narrow foliage -two leaves - for weeks. The pot is in my greenhouse in Kansas City. Finally it bloomed with 3 blooms on a thin stalk about 2 ft tall. I assume it is some winter blooming and possibly a S. African Gladiolus species or hybrid. There are three flowers on the stem and just over an inch across. It didn’t seem to fit anything on the wiki so I’d appreciate any thoughts from the Gladiolus experts on this list. Here’s the link http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#glad Thanks to David P for posting this. Jim W. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From leo@possi.org Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <85c6bc715d382acc19fc356d0cc154c9.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Bulbs blooming early (was: Mild winter) Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 14:23:31 -0800 (PST) I planted several containers of bulb seed late this year. It sat for weeks, doing nothing, until we had a week with daytime temperatures in the 80s F / upper 20s C and nights much lower though not freezing, whereupon most sprouted promptly. So, it seems day-night temperature variation may be quite important, and I need to get my seed containers planted and set out much earlier than I have been doing. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 09:46:09 +1100 Hi Jim Your plant looks to me like what used to be called Homoglossum. This genus is now sunk in Gladiolus. I've just browsed through some of my references. There are a number of similar species illustrated in Goldblatt & Manning's "Gladiolus in Southern Africa" but to me, it looks most like G. huttonii. Flowering time in the wild is given as August/September [SH] Regards Peter Franks Zone 10ish where the weather is still warm and dry -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Friday, 7 February 2014 9:15 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Mystery Bulb - Glad? Dear PBSers, I have been watching the growth of very fine narrow foliage -two leaves - for weeks. The pot is in my greenhouse in Kansas City. Finally it bloomed with 3 blooms on a thin stalk about 2 ft tall. I assume it is some winter blooming and possibly a S. African Gladiolus species or hybrid. There are three flowers on the stem and just over an inch across. It didn't seem to fit anything on the wiki so I'd appreciate any thoughts from the Gladiolus experts on this list. Here's the link http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#glad Thanks to David P for posting this. Jim W. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 22:59:07 +0000 In G. huttonii leaves should have an X section, and 2-3 mm. wide. From msittner@mcn.org Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20140206231113.73869E8B06@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:11:07 -0800 Hi Jim, You see sources for homoglads and I've grown Gladiolus from seed that I believe falls in this category. There are pictures on the wiki hybrid page of some of the flowers grown from this seed which probably has Gladiolus huttonii in its parentage and Gladiolus tristis. They are really quite lovely and in my northern California garden reliable as well. I have some blooming at the moment. Your plant may fall in this category and is likely a hybrid. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GladiolusHybrids#huttonii Mary Sue From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 06 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Bulbs flowering early (was: Mild winter) Date: Thu, 06 Feb 2014 15:34:22 -0800 Nathan wrote >I was suggesting that in a horticultural or botanical setting, >derivations of the word "bloom" should be reserved for discussions >concerning blooms (epicuticular wax) and are inappropriate when >referring to flowers or flowering. Well, if you want to ignore the history of English, you can specify that. As a speaker of this peculiarly eclectic language, I claim the freedom to intersperse my Italic loans ("flower") with my Germanic "blooms." One could, of course, write "blossom" instead of "bloom," though it takes more keystrokes. In addition, anybody who thinks this is a mild winter doesn't live where most of us North Americans do. It is snowing like an SOB out there right now, and all my early Narcissus, even under cover, are lying flat and frozen (though they may likely rise again). Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 10:35:57 +1100 Thanks Alberto, Gladiolus huttonii - "leaves ... cross-shaped in section ..." [G & M page 303]. That will teach me to pay too much attention to the flowers and not enough to other features! Regards, Peter -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Sent: Friday, 7 February 2014 9:59 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Mystery Bulb - Glad? In G. huttonii leaves should have an X section, and 2-3 mm. wide. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 06 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 23:38:28 +0000 Peter, dealing with species is a blessing. With hybrids things become so messed up. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 06 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1391730348.742.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Bulbs flowering early (was: Mild winter) Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 15:45:48 -0800 (PST) Nathan, thank you for taking the time to explain that. Let me make a counterargument.  If, as I think is true, the word "bloom" has as its older and more basic meaning "blossom", then your use of the word "bloom" is itself metaphorical. Even those who would argue that an old, basic meaning of  "bloom" refers to "an outward evidence of freshness or healthy vigor" as my Webster's puts it, would probably be aware of the very old connection to the word "blow" in the sense of a flower blooming. So I'm inclined to say that those who use the word to mean "flower" have the older and better established tradition. I'm pretty sure we can say that the meaning "extracuticular wax" is in fact very recent. Isn't it the case that the phrase "extracuticular wax' itself is a modern technical term devised to avoid the age-old ambiguity in the use of the word "bloom". In other words, isn't it likely that the very reason the term "extracuticular wax" exists is to let readers know that flowers are not the intended meaning? You have hit on a growing problem in our use of language. Scientists and those trained in the sciences frequently make a very bad job of it when they attempt to explain what they do for a living, and the reason it turns out to be a bad job is because of the tendency to jump back and forth between literal or everyday meanings of familiar words on the one hand  and metaphoric meanings of those same words - often in the same sentence or paragraph.  And it's not just scientists who do this: any of us well versed in the jargon of an arcane field is likely to switch back and forth between the use of certain words in a highly specialized sense at one point in a discussion and the use of the same words in their everyday sense within the same discussion. When that happens in presentations intended to explain science to lay people, it's especially disappointing because the lay people remember the metaphor but remain clueless about the actual science. I'll bet this sort of thing gives translators a headache.  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the temperature got above freezing for maybe an hour today.  From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 06 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: what's in bloom the first week of February Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 18:55:09 -0800 Several crocus have staggered into bloom in the past week, along with Iris unguicularis and I. reticulata. A few primroses are flowering, and the first buds on hellebores are starting to open. I had Eranthis hyemalis in flower this time last year, but this year, not even buds are up. Meanwhile, in the cold frame, a surprise: seedling Cyclamen coup are in flower at barely one year old. Several snowdrops are flowering. Snow is in the forecast, with freezing temperatures day and night, so bud growth has come to a halt for the time being. Kathleen PNW coast, zone 8, finally below freezing From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 07 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <4A693A25-D879-4616-ADC9-D54484D9213B@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Mystery Bulb - Glad? Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 15:05:07 -0600 Dear PBSers, Thanks for all the input on this Mystery. I am pretty confident that Mary Sue summed it up best - a ’Homoglad’ and probably a hybrid between G. huttonii x G. tristis. One of the wiki pix is especially convincing. And especially knowing it is blooming now in MS’s garden and my gh. Still wonder where this came from. Must have come in with some soil. Thanks all for your help. Jim W. On Feb 6, 2014, at 5:11 PM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Hi Jim, > > You see sources for homoglads and I've grown Gladiolus from seed that > I believe falls in this category. ... > probably has Gladiolus huttonii in its parentage and Gladiolus > tristis. They are really quite lovely and in my northern California > garden reliable as well. I have some blooming at the moment. Your > plant may fall in this category and is likely a hybrid. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From ksayce@willapabay.org Fri, 07 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <45D2D0FF-2EBB-4653-AECC-1D5602D5AC70@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: what's in bloom Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 13:12:12 -0800 I'm with Jane on this one. I will keep using bloom, blossom, flower, etc, as seems appropriate. Kathleen From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 07 Feb 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52F57E53.3090905@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Jim Forrest Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 13:46:11 +1300 Have just been told there was this bulb man here in New Zealand, called Jim Forrest. He was around in the early 2000s, does anyone know if heis still alive? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jxmuller@gmx.de Sat, 08 Feb 2014 03:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Jenny Muller" Subject: what's in bloom Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 11:17:21 +0100 (CET) According to my Oxford English Dict., in this instance, flower would more correct, but there don't seem to be any hard and fast rules. Anyway, there's always inflorescence to fall back on. > Gesendet: Freitag, 07. Februar 2014 um 22:12 Uhr > Von: "Kathleen Sayce" > An: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Betreff: [pbs] what's in bloom > > I'm with Jane on this one. I will keep using bloom, blossom, flower, etc, as seems appropriate. > > Kathleen > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 03:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <000901cf24b8$dc7262a0$955727e0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: what's in bloom Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 05:30:59 -0500 Subject: Re: [pbs] what's in bloom According to my Oxford English Dict., in this instance, flower would more correct, but there don't seem to be any hard and fast rules. Anyway, there's always inflorescence to fall back on. And efflorescence for the other. From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 17:25:14 +0000 In my vocabulary (a form of English from Britain), a 'bloom' describes an individual flower such as might be mounted on a board or examined in order to compare with blooms from other related plants. Blossom is a mass of flowers. To me a 'yard' is either a measurement, or a utilitarian space -"stable yard", "timber yard", "truck yard", "kennel yard". A "back yard" to me is the space at the back of my house where I wash pots, mend the car, chop logs..... The "garden" is an amenity space where I grow plants, or children play on the lawn.... I would like to know the American English term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. :p Peter (UK) On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > > Subject: Re: [pbs] what's in bloom > > According to my Oxford English Dict., in this instance, flower would more > correct, but there don't seem to be any hard and fast rules. Anyway, > there's always inflorescence to fall back on. > > And efflorescence for the other. > > From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 08 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 12:46:28 -0500 Hello all. I'd be very grateful if someone who knows whereof they speak would give me a few pointers for choosing a dissecting microscope with which to study mosses, plant parts etc.. It's time to take my plant studies to a different level. Recommendations re particular brands as well as specifications are most welcome. I will admit to being particularly attracted to the ones that have a small camera for moving the microscope image to a screen. Ever since I read about tardigrades (water bears), I have been consumed with a desire to see one.... Thanks, Ellen -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 09:53:38 -0800 Peter Taggart wrote, >To me a 'yard' is either a measurement, or a utilitarian space >-"stable yard", "timber yard", "truck yard", "kennel yard". A "back yard" >to me is the space at the back of my house where I wash pots, mend the car, >chop logs..... The "garden" is an amenity space where I grow plants, or >children play on the lawn.... I would like to know the American English >term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. "Back yard," now often written "backyard" (which seems subliterate to me), is American English for any enclosed space behind the house, whether used for growing plants, children's play, kenneling dogs, or the storage of junk cars. "Front yard" (never, as far as I have seen, written as one word) is a space, often not enclosed, between the house and the road. "Garden" to many Americans denotes a place where food plants are grown. The use of "garden" for a space where ornamental plants are grown probably originated in elite usage and is now spreading via literature and the Anglophilia that has increasingly characterized American ornamental gardening in the past few decades. To put this in BBC film series context, "yard" is downstairs, and "garden" is upstairs (unless you're talking about corn [maize] and beans). I hope I've navigated the terrain between lexicography and sociolinguistics carefully enough here not to insult any correspondents! In addition to "garden" books and articles, I've edited bilingual dictionaries and the journal "Language in Society," as well as a number of Oxford UP reference works -- but really, most of my relatives still call those spaces "yards." Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 10:59:22 -0700 I would like to know the American English term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. A back yard. In America (or at least in my part of it), a back yard is an area, usually enclosed by a fence, behind the house. The opposite is the front yard. "I really like this house, but there's no back yard." "You left the pruners out in the back yard, and now they're all rusted." Yard and garden (or lawn) are generally synonymous. "I hate yard work." People who have cars in their yard, front or back, are thought to conform to a certain stereotype, particularly if the cars have not been in running condition for several years. My yard and my garden are definitely synonymous, since there is almost no space anywhere surrounding the house which is not garden. "Rabbits ate the calochortus in the front yard, so I started planting them in the back yard, thinking there were no rabbits there." Bloom, blossom, and flower are synonymous, depending on usage. I prefer the word "flower", but other people use the words interchangeably. "Iris lycotis was blooming yesterday, but a rabbit bit off all the blossoms, and so now there are no flowers." Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Another kind of 'yard' Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0600 Another kind of 'yard' that has almost gone extinct in America is the 'drying yard.' It certainly appeared in household diagrams and writings of, let's say, pre-WWII. These were often narrow side-yards with plenty of shrubs in them on which to drape lace tablecloths, etc. or, there might be stout posts with lengths of strong wire for hanging clothes. I believe the umbrella-shaped clothes dryers on a pole are truly extinct. Here in rural Texas, only the most lowly households draped their washing on the nearby barbed wire fences...although that must have been quite a temptation...I wonder if the English laid out washing on box shrubs...would the dried laundry later smell of cats? It's possibly only their Buxus suffructicosa or sempervirens that have that odor. In Texas box is usually the Korean or Japanese variety, with little smell. -Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Another kind of 'yard' - off topic Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 18:53:41 +0000 In England, Scotland, and Ireland it more often called a "washing green" or "drying green" unless a shared and closed space when it might be a "washing yard" probably with a wash house or water trough. It is still a common practice to bleach cloths by laying them on the grass. On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 6:17 PM, Cynthia Mueller wrote: > Another kind of 'yard' that has almost gone extinct in America is the > 'drying yard.' It certainly appeared in household diagrams and writings of, > let's say, pre-WWII. These were often narrow side-yards with plenty of > shrubs in them on which to drape lace tablecloths, etc. or, there might be > stout posts with lengths of strong wire for hanging clothes. > From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 19:06:45 +0000 But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? I already know the meaning of the U.S.A. back yard! I also know the interchangeability of bloom and flower in U.S.A English. It is not the same in the English which I speak. :) On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:59 PM, penstemon wrote: > I would like to know the American English > term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. > > A back yard. In America (or at least in my part of it), a back yard is ... > From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <002601cf2502$339440f0$9abcc2d0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:15:58 -0500 Hi Ellen, The standard solution is a "stereo-zoom" scope with a trinocular head. But you can save a lot of money by finding one with a "magnichanger" instead of a zoom system. The third eyepiece should accept a c-mount camera which you can buy on eBay dirt cheap nowadays. I just purchased a TUCSEN 3.0 MP MICROSCOPE C-MOUNT VIDEO DIGITAL CAMERA for $139. I chose this one because it had nearly 3 meg resolution at a live frame rate (25 frames per second) while the 10 meg camera was closer to one meg live. (this isn't unusual as the smaller pixels take longer to charge). It is worth mentioning that you shouldn't be enticed to use this sort of scope above 100X because the tradeoff between depth of field and resolution makes for poor results except on very thin or planar samples which standard microscopes are designed to handle much better. Also, this sort of scope requires oblique illumination or dark field for most unmounted specimens, but the open structure facilitates this. Bright field is for flat, stained slides, etc. Other contrast modes are generally not available for this sort of scope. I bought a Russian made Lomo scope several years ago but you should be able to get a 'pretty good' Chinese scope for a few hundred bucks. The first scope I bought was for my use at work 35 years ago and came to $65,000, so I put 'pretty good' in quotes. Remember to be willing to sacrifice a continuous zoom for a thumbwheel that switches among discrete magnification steps if you want to save money. Be glad to comment off line on specific scopes you find. Aren't water bears only found in captivity (aquaria)? I once read an article about a new phylum described that was only found on Norwegian lobster lips - I wonder what became of that? Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 12:46 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Hello all. I'd be very grateful if someone who knows whereof they speak would give me a few pointers for choosing a dissecting microscope with which to study mosses, plant parts etc.. It's time to take my plant studies to a different level. Recommendations re particular brands as well as specifications are most welcome. I will admit to being particularly attracted to the ones that have a small camera for moving the microscope image to a screen. Ever since I read about tardigrades (water bears), I have been consumed with a desire to see one.... Thanks, Ellen -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From ds429@frontier.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1391887223.74304.YahooMailNeo@web121904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 11:20:23 -0800 (PST) Ellen and All.   I would also like to hear advice on this topic.   Dell ds429@frontier.com From: Ellen Hornig >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:46 PM >Subject: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > >Hello all.  I'd be very grateful if someone who knows whereof they speak >would give me a few pointers for choosing a dissecting microscope with >which to study mosses, plant parts etc..  It's time to take my plant >studies to a different level. Recommendations re particular brands as well >as specifications are most welcome.  I will admit to being particularly >attracted to the ones that have a small camera for moving the >microscope image to a screen. > >Ever since I read about tardigrades (water bears), I have been consumed >with a desire to see one.... > >Thanks, >Ellen > >-- >Ellen Hornig >212 Grafton St >Shrewsbury MA 01545 >508-925-5147 >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From xerics@cox.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <005101cf2503$b8ef16c0$2acd4440$@net> From: "richard" Subject: Another kind of 'yard' Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 11:26:53 -0800 Don't forget grave yard! Often lots of flowers/blossoms/blooms. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Cynthia Mueller Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 10:17 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Another kind of 'yard' Another kind of 'yard' that has almost gone extinct in America is the 'drying yard.' It certainly appeared in household diagrams and writings of, let's say, pre-WWII. These were often narrow side-yards with plenty of shrubs in them on which to drape lace tablecloths, etc. or, there might be stout posts with lengths of strong wire for hanging clothes. I believe the umbrella-shaped clothes dryers on a pole are truly extinct. Here in rural Texas, only the most lowly households draped their washing on the nearby barbed wire fences...although that must have been quite a temptation...I wonder if the English laid out washing on box shrubs...would the dried laundry later smell of cats? It's possibly only their Buxus suffructicosa or sempervirens that have that odor. In Texas box is usually the Korean or Japanese variety, with little smell. -Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <002f01cf2504$2065e7c0$6131b740$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:29:46 -0500 Sounds like it could be a driveway unless it has grass then it's still a backyard to me. I do all the things you mentioned in my backyard but I typically do not zone an area where these activities stop and badminton or other activities begins. Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? I already know the meaning of the U.S.A. back yard! From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <003001cf2504$7549c720$5fdd5560$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:32:08 -0500 I want to add that the only person I know who bought a scope with a built-in camera regretted it. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of ds429 Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 2:20 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Ellen and All.   I would also like to hear advice on this topic.   From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:33:31 -0500 I do not believe that there is an equivalent term or equivalent space. Working on the car, washing pots, etc., would probably be done in the driveway or garage, both of which tend to be larger than the British equivalent. Chopping wood is something I do in the woods adjacent to the back yard. Nick On Feb 8, 2014, at 2:06 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? > I already know the meaning of the U.S.A. back yard! > I also know the interchangeability of bloom and flower in U.S.A English. It > is not the same in the English which I speak. > :) > > On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:59 PM, penstemon wrote: > >> I would like to know the American English >> term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. >> >> From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 12:37:30 -0700 But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard? I think I would call it a "British back yard". It would then require an explanation. "You mean they have a separate area for washing pots?" Here, cars are worked on in the garage, or the driveway, or sometimes even the street. Without an explanation, it might be confused with "English garden", which is used here to define a style (however imaginary) of gardening. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From klazina1@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <52F687EE.5000503@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Another kind of 'yard' and re bulbs Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2014 08:39:26 +1300 I bought Rainlily seed on eBay which came from a graveyard. Hence the seller named them Haunted seed. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 9/02/2014 8:26 a.m., richard wrote: > Don't forget grave yard! Often lots of flowers/blossoms/blooms. From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <74844566-2906-4334-BB67-CB266D1DCDF2@gmail.com> From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:40:41 -0500 The old Nikon Coolpix 995 and related models have a lens almost exactly the same size as a standard microscope eyepiece. There was an adaptor that you could screw onto the lens to connect to a microscope, but I got some fairly decent pictures just holding the camera up to the eyepiece. I suspect one could obtain a Coolpix 995 fairly inexpensively on ebay. Nick Sent from my iPhone On Feb 8, 2014, at 2:32 PM, "Tim Eck" wrote: > I want to add that the only person I know who bought a scope with a built-in > camera regretted it. > Tim > > From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:42:47 -0500 Thanks, all, and Tim in particular, and I hope we hear some more. Your comment about avoiding built-in cameras is useful, Tim, because there are, of course, some very inexpensive microscopes with low-res cameras attached (e.g. for under $200) on eBay. Lest I be credited with a greater interest than I have, I personally am not looking for fine opticals or a setup with which to do excellent photography - I just want something inexpensive (as in "under $300", not "under $65,000") with which to get a reasonably good look at small plants, plant bits, and critters. You know....girls just wanna have fun, and all that. Of course, others may well be more serious, so please, people, keep the info coming. Many thanks, Ellen On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 2:32 PM, Tim Eck wrote: > I want to add that the only person I know who bought a scope with a > built-in > camera regretted it. > Tim > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of ds429 > Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 2:20 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > Ellen and All. > > I would also like to hear advice on this topic. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From totototo@telus.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <52F61B73.30637.2EDC@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: What's in bloom Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 11:56:35 -0800 Various forms of eranthis, the winter aconite. * the usual bright yellow form * an orange tinged form I received as seed under the name 'aurantiaca'. Comes true from seed. * a group of doubles derived from the Gothenberg Botanic Garden. I don't know if I still have the original clone, but if it's lost, double seedlings fill the gap. * a hybrid between E. hyemalis and E. cilicia with darkish foliage and an especially bright, almost glittering flower. This is not the cultivar 'Golden Guinea'. (E. cilicia is no longer considered a distinct species, but from a horticultural point of view is distinct from the more usual eranthis grown.) * 'Moonlight' a paler yellow than the usual form; not a strong grower, but it's holding its own and looks ready for division this year. * 'Pauline', another pale yellow. A very weak grower that barely escaped destruction in 2011 during construction work. Moonlight and Pauline are quite similar in flower, but Pauline gives the impression of being a little paler and having slightly more noticeable pencilling on the petals than Moonlight. Snowdrops. Cyclamen coum. Iris unguicularis. Crocus sieberi. Iris 'Katherine Hodgkin'. Mandragora officinarum will be flowering in a few weeks. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: The 'Bone Yard' Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:06:15 -0600 The 'Bone Yard' used to be common at least in the rural Southern United States. It was usually out between the barn and the woodlot and was where farm animals were dragged off to, after death. I suppose it always had the aura of death clinging to it, at least for animals, because many families had the stories of old Mollie the mule, or their 30 year old pet Shetland, who was missing one morning and was later discovered in the bone yard. Something like the fabled elephant graveyard. The phrase lingers on in the term for the area on the table where extra dominos are kept till drawn out for play. -Cynthia Mueller From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <004101cf2509$454755b0$cfd60110$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 15:06:35 -0500 It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve year old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field. It involves taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal distance and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured by standard deviation or range. From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Another kind of 'yard' and re bulbs Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 22:02:42 +0100 As long as the ebay seller didn't say "The devil made us do it" as the song from Golden Earring may be better know for "Radar Love". And is it possible to be bilingual for American English vs British English vs South-African English vs Australian English vs a couple of other English I probably forgot to mention. So how difficult it can be for non native English speaking persons like me. But I enjoy the explanations of everyone. Aad > On 8 feb. 2014, at 20:39, "Ina Crossley" wrote: > > I bought Rainlily seed on eBay which came from a graveyard. Hence the > seller named them Haunted seed. > > Ina > > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > >> On 9/02/2014 8:26 a.m., richard wrote: >> Don't forget grave yard! Often lots of flowers/blossoms/blooms. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1391893534.8946.YahooMailNeo@web186104.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 21:05:34 +0000 (GMT) But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? I already know the meaning of the U.S.A. back yard!   I (and my wife) associate (back) yard with North America, from films, and maybe with what used to be called the "industrial north" of the UK. For us (southerners) the word yard is only associated with farm, factory, cattle, builders etc. In domestic situations it is/was always front or back garden unless it was a very large estate/house when farming terms become more appropriate.   Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 22:09:39 +0100 There is a special camera that does this by using various lenses in one shot a Lytro. > On 8 feb. 2014, at 21:06, "Tim Eck" wrote: > > It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve year > old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs > nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field. It involves > taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal distance > and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. > This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or > neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured by > standard deviation or range. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 08:24:38 +1100 Hi all Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Peter Franks in dry Sydney, Australia -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Sunday, 9 February 2014 6:07 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? I already know the meaning of the U.S.A. back yard! I also know the interchangeability of bloom and flower in U.S.A English. It is not the same in the English which I speak. :) On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:59 PM, penstemon wrote: > I would like to know the American English > term for a utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. > > A back yard. In America (or at least in my part of it), a back yard is ... > From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat, 08 Feb 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 21:35:30 +0000 Hi, In message <004101cf2509$454755b0$cfd60110$@embarqmail.com>, Tim Eck writes >old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs >nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field. It involves Commonly called "focus stacking". There are many free (enfuse, combinezp) and commercial (Zerene etc.) software packages. The technique is briefly discussed on this wiki page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/PhotographingSeedsTwo But the place you will find lots of useful discussion is here: http://www.photomacrography.net/ You can also see there it is possible to attach microscope objective lenses to any DSLR camera and get good results. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 14:45:14 -0700 Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Probably only when studying Whitman. I might start using it, though. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From robin@hansennursery.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Robin Hansen" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 13:53:28 -0800 But what's an appropriate definition of door yard? I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. Robin Hansen Southwest Coastal Oregon -----Original Message----- From: penstemon Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 1:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Probably only when studying Whitman. I might start using it, though. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <52F6B03B.4010906@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2014 11:31:23 +1300 dooryard(?d???j??d) /n/ *1.*(Architecture)/US//and//Canadian/a yard in front of the front or back door of a house Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 9/02/2014 10:53 a.m., Robin Hansen wrote: > But what's an appropriate definition of door yard? I love the term, quaint > but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. > > Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - > lovely, lovely rain. > > Robin Hansen > Southwest Coastal Oregon > > -----Original Message----- > From: penstemon > Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 1:45 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard > > > Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". > Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? > > > Probably only when studying Whitman. > I might start using it, though. > > > Bob Nold > > Denver, Colorado, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 15:36:46 -0700 But what's an appropriate definition of door yard? I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. A dooryard, which Whitman considered one word, would be a garden in front of, or near, a door. I have a dooryard. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado, USA From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 09:38:30 +1100 Hi all Merriam-Webster & Google are in agreement that "dooryard" [one word] pertains to a front or back yard [or I guess even a side yard] which is accessed directly from the house. Maine and Canada are referred to, so perhaps this term is more relevant to gardeners from that part of the world Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Robin Hansen Sent: Sunday, 9 February 2014 8:53 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard But what's an appropriate definition of door yard? I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. Robin Hansen Southwest Coastal Oregon -----Original Message----- From: penstemon Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 1:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Probably only when studying Whitman. I might start using it, though. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 09:57:21 +1100 Hi all We are still no closer to finding Peter Taggart's desired American English term for "back yard" So perhaps we could make something up. Something along the line of "epicuticular wax" might be "posterior domiciliar enclosure" - plenty of appeal for the pedants among us - absolutely unambiguous! Or perhaps we could extrapolate on the Esperanto term for back yard [backyard?] which is "malantaukorto" or the corresponding term for back garden which is "malantaua gardeno" .... Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of penstemon Sent: Sunday, 9 February 2014 9:37 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard But what's an appropriate definition of door yard? I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. A dooryard, which Whitman considered one word, would be a garden in front of, or near, a door. I have a dooryard. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado, USA From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: What's a dooryard? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 17:24:44 -0600 The only reference to a dooryard I remember was connected to the phrase 'dooryard rose' which meant a small bloom such as those on the plant Cecil Brunner. One took it from where the plant grew by the door and fastened it into a buttonhole. And sure enough, Google brings up a citation from the American Rose Annual, 1935 p. 3, for a poem called In Dooryards by Florence Van Fleet Lyman. Dr. Walter Van Fleet, a highly regarded early American rosarian, bred a number of roses of this type. You can see citations about him and the dooryard roses at the rose site 'helpmefind.com. ' -Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone From echernof@iupui.edu Sat, 08 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <20140208182818.nw1bdqfja8c8k8o8@webmail.iu.edu> From: "Chernoff, Ellen A. G." Subject: Dissecting/stereo microscopes. Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 18:28:18 -0500 For Ellen Hornig, I have always found Nikon gives the biggest bang for the buck with stereomicrosopes, while Leitz (formerly Wild) scopes are the top of the line. The Nikon SMZ series can be found through used equipment dealers. You might, though, find that a high end student grade scope from Olympus or Nikon does what you need with a lens adapter for a Coolpix type camera. The student scopes sell new for around $1,200 each, so a used one could be fairly cheap, with the warning that students tend to beat the hell out of these things, so a refurbished one would be a must. I once helped someone teaching beekeeping in Africa find a used, good student type scope from a dealer in Mass (for artificial insemination of bees...). emailing the used equipment dealers works best. you might even find one with a camera already. You'll want one with built in lights and you'll need extra bulbs, available from bulb specialty compaies, also online. -Ellen Chernoff -- Dr. Ellen Chernoff, Ph.D. Associate Professor of Biology IUPUI-Biology SL 360 723 W. Michigan St. Indianapolis, IN 46202-5132 317-274 From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1391902286.25347.YahooMailNeo@web164504.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 15:31:26 -0800 (PST) dooryard is used all the time by us in the Cotton Germplasm Collection.  It is hard to tell truely wild cotton plants so many are considered door yards. On Saturday, February 8, 2014 4:02 PM, Robin Hansen wrote: But what's an appropriate definition of door yard?  I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. Robin Hansen Southwest Coastal Oregon -----Original Message----- From: penstemon Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 1:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Probably only when studying Whitman. I might start using it, though. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA From rherold@yahoo.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52F6BFBF.5090504@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 18:37:35 -0500 It only took 7 years, but it was worth the wait. Holy cow!! Can't wait til the rest of the flowers are open. --Roy NW of Boston It's been a long, cold winter... From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1391904707.31211.YahooMailNeo@web121306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 16:11:47 -0800 (PST) Peter in Sydney wrote: "Merriam-Webster & Google are in agreement that "dooryard" [one word] pertains to a front or back yard [or I guess even a side yard] which is accessed directly from the house. Maine and Canada are referred to, so perhaps this term is more relevant to gardeners from that part of the world." I'm inclined to agree. Louise Beebe Wilder made occasional reference to dooryard gardens in her various works, often in reference to what she encountered in New York State, USA. These dooryard gardens were generally associated with rural, farming communities where the farming families might have had plenty of land, but little time or money for ornamental gardens. Herb gardens were evidently often dooryard gardens,  placed of course near the door to the kitchen to make quick forays by the cook out to pick the herbs easy. The purely ornamental gardens were small because they had to be fenced to keep out the cows and other big herbivores. The suite of plants in these gardens was probably limited largely to whatever could be easily propagated and passed around. But there were also traveling salesmen who sold seeds and bulbs: Zephyranthes and Tigridia are two sorts mentioned in this connection by Wilder. Many of the old, tough, suckering roses turned up in these gardens, too. I think there is a social aspect to the dooryard tradition, too: by planting your best plants out where passersby could see them, you were telling the world that in spite of the livestock, mud and odors, you too aspired to be a member of cultivated society. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the only livestock I have is a little dog and some of the county's deer herd, but I have my share of mud and odors; and yes, I too aspire to be a member of somewhat cultivated society. On Saturday, February 8, 2014 5:39 PM, Peter Franks wrote: Hi all Merriam-Webster & Google are in agreement that "dooryard" [one word] pertains to a front or back yard [or I guess even a side yard] which is accessed directly from the house. Maine and Canada are referred to, so perhaps this term is more relevant to gardeners from that part of the world Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Robin Hansen Sent: Sunday, 9 February 2014 8:53 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard But what's an appropriate definition of door yard?  I love the term, quaint but entirely useable - sorry no Whitman available to look up. Just a brief mention - I've had 3.5 inches of rain since Thursday night - lovely, lovely rain. Robin Hansen Southwest Coastal Oregon -----Original Message----- From: penstemon Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 1:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Another term I've encountered only in American literature is "door yard". Does this have any relevance in our current thread? Is this term still used? Probably only when studying Whitman. I might start using it, though. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From totototo@telus.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 17:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52F65D17.11787.1260E2@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: What's a dooryard? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 16:36:39 -0800 From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/When_Lilacs_Last_in_the_Dooryard_Bloom%27d_%28Hinde mith%29 > When Lilacs Last in the Dooryard Bloom'd: A Requiem for those we love is a > 1946 composition by composer Paul Hindemith, based on the poem of the same > name by Walt Whitman. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From ixia@dcsi.net.au Sat, 08 Feb 2014 17:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <955D22FE40B946B98FE4E600A4C6828F@BillPC> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: What's a dooryard? Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 12:03:26 +1100 dooryard The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back yard" and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other out-buildings; dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to farming. A household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." Bill Richardosn Ixiaking Australia -------------------------------------------------- From: "Rodger Whitlock" Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 11:36 AM To: Subject: Re: [pbs] What's a dooryard? > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 1922 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 08 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Dissecting/stereo microscopes. Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 20:29:01 -0500 Dear Ellen Ch. - thanks so much for the information. I'm coming to the conclusion that I should start with something really inexpensive to see just how interested I am, as my object is pretty much to play, not to conduct research or take great photos. One correspondent wrote privately to suggest I investigate acquiring (or making) a webcam microscope. From what I'm finding on the web, this is a fairly effective and extremely inexpensive way to get a good look at small things. I also can't help thinking I could have a lot of fun showing my grandson things, too - though judging from his reserved approach to salamanders, I may be overoptimistic. Don't know why he feels that way about salamanders...I can't keep my hands off them. Artificial insemination of bees....who knew? Warm regards, Ellen H. On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 6:28 PM, Chernoff, Ellen A. G. wrote: > For Ellen Hornig, > I have always found Nikon gives the biggest bang for the buck > with stereomicrosopes, while Leitz (formerly Wild) scopes are the top > of the line. The Nikon SMZ series can be found through used equipment > dealers. You might, though, find that a high end student grade scope > from Olympus or Nikon does what you need with a lens adapter for a > Coolpix type camera. The student scopes sell new for around $1,200 > each, so a used one could be fairly cheap, with the warning that > students tend to beat the hell out of these things, so a refurbished > one would be a must. I once helped someone teaching beekeeping in > Africa find a used, good student type scope from a dealer in Mass (for > artificial insemination of bees...). emailing the used equipment > dealers works best. you might even find one with a camera already. > You'll want one with built in lights and you'll need extra bulbs, > available from bulb specialty compaies, also online. > -Ellen Chernoff > > -- > Dr. Ellen Chernoff, Ph.D. > Associate Professor of Biology > IUPUI-Biology SL 360 > 723 W. Michigan St. > Indianapolis, IN 46202-5132 > 317-274 > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <001001cf253c$f66c1e60$e3445b20$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Dissecting/stereo microscopes. Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 21:16:36 -0500 One correspondent wrote privately to suggest I investigate acquiring (or making) a webcam microscope. From what I'm finding on the web, this is a fairly effective and extremely inexpensive way to get a good look at small things A webcam sounds like a great starting point. It has a miniscule numerical aperture but you only need 0.02 - 0.05 for what you're doing. Carl Zeiss still makes the best stereo-zooms and Bausch and Lomb, Cambridge Instruments, Reichert, Wild, and all those others are extinct or bought up by Leitz. In my experience, the old stereo-zooms are truly dinosaurs. Twenty years ago used ones were worth their weight in gold because everybody could use them, not just the microscopists. If you can find one for free, get it but be careful of spending money for one since you won't know what parts are missing until later. Things have changed. We used to pay $500+ for a halogen fiber-optic illuminator and now you can get a cool LED light for pennies. The old Bausch and Lomb Research II had a light path that traversed sixty lens surfaces and you wondered why the image had haze. Tim From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 20:56:42 -0600 Holy cow indeed Roy! That's a fantastic Massonia! Please take photos of the full blooms. Nhu On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:37 PM, Roy Herold wrote: > It only took 7 years, but it was worth the wait. > > > > Holy cow!! Can't wait til the rest of the flowers are open. > From idavide@sbcglobal.net Sat, 08 Feb 2014 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1391918160.42431.YahooMailNeo@web181505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 19:56:00 -0800 (PST) I had heard about, though I don't know where to find more information on it, a camera + computer setup where the camera took a series of pictures with gradually changing focus settings, and the pictures were then combined by the computer choosing only the in-focus portions to create the composite.  This would be extremely useful  in creating substantial depth of field for close-ups, and macro photography generally.  If anyone knows anything about this equipment, I'd be very interested. >________________________________ > From: Tim Eck >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:06 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > >It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve year >old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs >nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field.  It involves >taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal distance >and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. >This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or >neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured by >standard deviation or range. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <013401cf2553$0a705140$1f50f3c0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 20:54:38 -0800 Brian wrote: >>But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? I'm pretty sure there is no term for that in American English. The term "yard" in California (and I think most of the US) means all of the lot that is not occupied by the house, including the lawn(s), vegetable garden, patio, swimming pool, lighted basketball court, barbecue, greenhouse, and parking area for the motorhome. There is no concept of a separate work area, probably because there is no standard layout for an American backyard. Some homes have extensive landscaping (what I think you'd call gardens) around them, while many have little or none. The area behind a house is especially diverse, because it's not on public display. The backyard may be given over entirely to storage of used automobile parts, or to illegal housing for extended family members, or to a ham radio tower, or may be just a patch of dirt where the dogs run around. Since there's no standard layout, there is no term I know of for particular sub-parts of the yard. It's all just yard. Sorry. Mike San Jose, CA From greg@alpacamanagement.com Sat, 08 Feb 2014 22:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Greg Ruckert" Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 15:37:16 +1030 Helicon focus fully automates the process and creates stunning photos, assuming you have a DSLR camera. I did a presentation including some work done with Helicon Focus at the International Aroid Conference in Hanoi last December and got some botanists very excited. Also creates a 3d image of the subject. Greg Ruckert, Nairne, South Australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ehrlich" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? I had heard about, though I don't know where to find more information on it, a camera + computer setup where the camera took a series of pictures with gradually changing focus settings, and the pictures were then combined by the computer choosing only the in-focus portions to create the composite. This would be extremely useful in creating substantial depth of field for close-ups, and macro photography generally. If anyone knows anything about this equipment, I'd be very interested. >________________________________ > From: Tim Eck >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:06 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > >It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve year >old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs >nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field. It involves >taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal distance >and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. >This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or >neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured >by >standard deviation or range. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Sat, 08 Feb 2014 22:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kiyel Boland Subject: Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 19:01:20 +1300 Love the red styles?, more photos as it blooms Please Roy. Kiyel On 9/02/2014, at 3:56 pm, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Holy cow indeed Roy! That's a fantastic Massonia! Please take photos of the > full blooms. > > Nhu > > On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:37 PM, Roy Herold wrote: > >> It only took 7 years, but it was worth the wait. >> >> >> >> Holy cow!! Can't wait til the rest of the flowers are open. >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sun, 09 Feb 2014 00:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: What's a dooryard? Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 23:48:36 -0800 The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > dooryard > > The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, > typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back > yard" > and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a > necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice > common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other > out-buildings; > dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to farming. > A > household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. > > "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." > > Bill Richardosn > Ixiaking > Australia From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 09 Feb 2014 01:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 08:50:17 +0000 Very interesting that the U.S. don't seem to have a distinction between work and recreational domestic land. Peter (UK) On Sun, Feb 9, 2014 at 4:54 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > Brian wrote: > > >>But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back > yard???? > > I'm pretty sure there is no term for that in American English. The term > "yard" in California (and I think most of the US) means all of the lot that > is not occupied by the house, including the lawn(s), vegetable garden, > patio, swimming pool, lighted basketball court, barbecue, greenhouse, and > parking area for the motorhome. There is no concept of a separate work > area, > probably because there is no standard layout for an American backyard. > From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sun, 09 Feb 2014 01:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 10:10:58 +0100 That's the gardeners spirit. After that many years of good care to get such a nice flower. And as others are saying keep us posted with more spectacular photos. Aad > On 9 feb. 2014, at 07:01, "Kiyel Boland" wrote: > > Love the red styles?, more photos as it blooms Please Roy. > Kiyel > >> On 9/02/2014, at 3:56 pm, Nhu Nguyen wrote: >> >> Holy cow indeed Roy! That's a fantastic Massonia! Please take photos of the >> full blooms. >> >> Nhu >> >>> On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:37 PM, Roy Herold wrote: >>> >>> It only took 7 years, but it was worth the wait. >>> >>> >>> >>> Holy cow!! Can't wait til the rest of the flowers are open. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Kiyel Boland > kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From cumbleton@yahoo.co.uk Sun, 09 Feb 2014 05:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cf2598$6bce4290$436ac7b0$@yahoo.co.uk> From: "Paul Cumbleton" Subject: Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! (Roy Herold) Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 13:11:18 -0000 Roy you kindly shared material of this form with me a few years ago and mine seem to have got to flowering size a couple of years quicker. I have posted a picture of one with a full size flowering head on the SRGC forum at http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11207.0 It is a really lovely form - thank you! I have already shared seed on the SRGC and AGS seed exchanges, so hopefully this form will soon become more widespread. Paul Cumbleton U.K. From teck11@embarqmail.com Sun, 09 Feb 2014 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <001701cf259e$ae31e640$0a95b2c0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Haemanthus images Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 08:56:06 -0500 Does anybody have any images of Haemanthus sp. Growing on a cliff face that I might use in a presentation? Thanks Tim From tiede@pacbell.net Sun, 09 Feb 2014 09:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <05da01cf25b8$e24ad940$a6e08bc0$@net> From: "Bracey Tiede" Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 09:03:37 -0800 David, Saxon Holt has been experimenting with software and photos to create these composites. You may wish to communicate with him. http://saxonholt.com/blog/ Cheers, Bracey San Jose -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of David Ehrlich Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 7:56 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? I had heard about, though I don't know where to find more information on it, a camera + computer setup where the camera took a series of pictures with gradually changing focus settings, and the pictures were then combined by the computer choosing only the in-focus portions to create the composite.  This would be extremely useful  in creating substantial depth of field for close-ups, and macro photography generally.  If anyone knows anything about this equipment, I'd be very interested. >________________________________ > From: Tim Eck >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:06 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > >It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve year >old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs >nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field.  It involves >taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal distance >and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. >This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or >neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured by >standard deviation or range. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From markemazer@gmail.com Sun, 09 Feb 2014 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 12:20:43 -0500 Focus stacking software: http://zerenesystems.com/cms/home Free 30 day trial then $90 for personal edition. Mark Mazer Hertford, NC USDA 8a On Sun, Feb 9, 2014 at 12:03 PM, Bracey Tiede wrote: > David, > > Saxon Holt has been experimenting with software and photos to create these > composites. You may wish to communicate with him. > > http://saxonholt.com/blog/ > > Cheers, > Bracey > San Jose > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of David Ehrlich > Sent: Saturday, February 08, 2014 7:56 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > I had heard about, though I don't know where to find more information on > it, > a camera + computer setup where the camera took a series of pictures with > gradually changing focus settings, and the pictures were then combined by > the computer choosing only the in-focus portions to create the composite. > This would be extremely useful in creating substantial depth of field for > close-ups, and macro photography generally. If anyone knows anything about > this equipment, I'd be very interested. > > > >________________________________ > > From: Tim Eck > >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' > >Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:06 PM > >Subject: Re: [pbs] Best dissecting microscopes for botanical subjects? > > > > > >It may be worth mentioning if anyone here is a software guru or twelve > year > >old, there are some really cool things you can do with photomicrographs > >nowadays to remove all blurring from limited depth of field. It involves > >taking several images where the only thing you change is the focal > distance > >and then create a composite saving only the in-focus parts of each image. > >This is surprisingly simple for digital images since a sharp sub-image or > >neighborhood is defined by high local variation in brightness as measured > by > >standard deviation or range. > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >pbs mailing list > >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 09 Feb 2014 12:24:56 -0800 At the risk of sounding my own trumpet, I might mention that the latest issue of the Rock Garden Quarterly (the NARGS journal) includes an article I wrote on "the public and private rock garden." It deals with the rock garden full of mostly simple plants I built near the road at my new house, and the one full of plants that might likely die on me that resides in the "back yard," next to the bulb house. The illustrations show a typical suburban American house lot (albeit double the size of most) complete with driveway the size of Delaware, probably installed by a previous owner to accommodate the boat and the motor home. I'm still thinking about what to grow on the driveway; George Schenk once wrote a book "Gardening on Hard Surfaces," but it's heavily inclined toward tropical climates. For the time being, the driveway is an excellent place to have mulch and grit dumped. At the moment, the driveway, the garden, and all associated spaces are covered in a daffodil's depth of snow and about a centimeter of ice. I'm catching up in the office and wishing I could watch the Olympics, but the TV satellite dish is, unfortunately, also glazed beyond its adaptive threshold. At least my internet is cable! After writing my initial post on this thread I wondered if the current use of "garden" for any open space around a house in Britain is a recent innovation accompanying the spread of suburban detached housing. There isn't much pre-19th-century British literature focused on the domestic conditions of the middle and working classes, so I don't know where one would look to find out what an artisan or a clerk, or their wives, called it. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA. waiting for the thaw At 08:54 PM 2/8/2014, you wrote: >Brian wrote: > > >>But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? > >I'm pretty sure there is no term for that in American English. The term >"yard" in California (and I think most of the US) means all of the lot that >is not occupied by the house, including the lawn(s), vegetable garden, >patio, swimming pool, lighted basketball court, barbecue, greenhouse, and >parking area for the motorhome. From leo@possi.org Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <0ce138e659cc1ae5c1303e0d223ab27f.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 12:25:26 -0800 (PST) Peter begged to know > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? Most people wouldn't use a word for this because such spaces almost don't exist here. Most people in the US don't take care of any plants whatsoever, unless things planted in the landscape, and hiring a gardener to take care of that (generally poorly) is very common. For some reason landscape maintenance people here think every shrub has to be carved into a ball, pillow or marshmallow. One time in a bank landscape I saw a yucca whose leaf sphere had been carved into a cube. The faded bloom stalk was not removed at the base, but was part of the box. High-falutin' landscape designers, in the rare design for a client who actually would use such a space, call such areas "utility areas" or "potting areas", or they would specify a "potting shed." I would like to emphasize that even the most luxurious garden behind an immense mansion in the US would be called the back yard by almost all US natives, and people in general expect both front yard and back yard to look good, with nice plantings. On larger properties, or those with substantial native vegetation areas or portions that do not receive regular maintenance, people often refer to the wilder area with the colloquial expression "the back 40", as in 40 acres. An acre is an Anglo-Saxon unit of area denoting the land one man with one ox could plow in one day. There are 640 acres in a square mile, which in the US is referred to on maps as a township. I can't recall who mentioned that "garden" tends to be reserved for a specific area where vegetables are grown; people also have "flower gardens" where they grow decorative plants. I and other people here in metro Phoenix would be said by locals to have a large "cactus garden" as well as an orchard, which refers to a space planted mainly with fruiting trees. It's grapefruit season. Those of you who haven't tasted a tree-ripened grapefruit are terribly deprived. The difference between store-bought and tree-ripened grapefruit is about as big as the difference between canned and fresh Litchi chinensis. Our extremely hot summers and cool winters make for magnificent grapefruit. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <3084402bc715e6c636a39f50fd810001.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 12:46:33 -0800 (PST) The problem with "dooryard garden" as a term is that it is not actually used by US English speakers, despite mouldering in a dictionary, the way suits of armor can be found in castles here and there. The majority of non-garden-book readers would look at you quizzically if you used this term in daily speech. The Walt Whitman poem, When Lilacs Last in the Dooryard Bloomed, is fantastic. Those of you wishing an introduction to US English poetry won't go wrong picking up Leaves of Grass, from which this poem is extracted. It begins as a mourning poem for the just-assassinated President Abraham Lincoln, killed in April, when lilacs bloom in the northeastern US states, and changes into something else, as do all extraordinary poems. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA > Very interesting that the U.S. don't seem to have a distinction between > work and recreational domestic land. Peter (UK) > > > > On Sun, Feb 9, 2014 at 4:54 AM, Michael Mace wrote: > > >> Brian wrote: >> >> >>>> But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back >>>> >> yard???? >> >> I'm pretty sure there is no term for that in American English. The term >> "yard" in California (and I think most of the US) means all of the lot that >> is not occupied by the house, including the lawn(s), vegetable garden, patio, swimming >> pool, lighted basketball court, barbecue, greenhouse, and parking area for the >> motorhome. There is no concept of a separate work area, probably because there is no >> standard layout for an American backyard. >> > > > ------------------------------ > > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 10:10:58 +0100 > From: Aad van Beek > Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > That's the gardeners spirit. After that many years of good care to get such a nice > flower. And as others are saying keep us posted with more spectacular photos. Aad > > > >> On 9 feb. 2014, at 07:01, "Kiyel Boland" wrote: >> >> >> Love the red styles?, more photos as it blooms Please Roy. >> Kiyel >> >> >>> On 9/02/2014, at 3:56 pm, Nhu Nguyen wrote: >>> >>> >>> Holy cow indeed Roy! That's a fantastic Massonia! Please take photos of the >>> full blooms. >>> >>> Nhu >>> >>> >>>> On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 5:37 PM, Roy Herold wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> It only took 7 years, but it was worth the wait. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Holy cow!! Can't wait til the rest of the flowers are open. >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> >> Kiyel Boland >> kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > ------------------------------ > > > Message: 5 > Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 13:11:18 -0000 > From: "Paul Cumbleton" > Subject: Re: [pbs] Massonia sp. Uniondale--First Bloom! (Roy Herold) > To: > Message-ID: <000001cf2598$6bce4290$436ac7b0$@yahoo.co.uk> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > Roy you kindly shared material of this form with me a few years ago and mine > seem to have got to flowering size a couple of years quicker. I have posted a picture of > one with a full size flowering head on the SRGC forum at > http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11207.0 It is a really lovely > form - thank you! I have already shared seed on the SRGC and AGS seed exchanges, so > hopefully this form will soon become more widespread. > > Paul Cumbleton > U.K. > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > Message: 6 > Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 08:56:06 -0500 > From: "Tim Eck" > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus images > To: "PBS list" > Message-ID: <001701cf259e$ae31e640$0a95b2c0$@embarqmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > Does anybody have any images of Haemanthus sp. Growing on a cliff face that > I might use in a presentation? > > > Thanks > > > Tim > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 133, Issue 12 > ************************************ > > From leo@possi.org Sun, 09 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <75e258c69bcc6ff43e1204acb4e4eaa0.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: What's in Bloom with (Often Underground) Storage Organs Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 12:59:14 -0800 (PST) Eulophia callichroma Euphorbia: milli Ihosy locality, 3 plants with 3 flower colors sakaharensis Hippeastrum hybrids, 4 different Narcissus tazzeta, paperwhites Oxalis: obtusa Buttercup obtusa Honey obtusa Peach obtusa Sunshine pes-caprae stenorrhyncha Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 09 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52F8150A.5070305@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: seed of Velthiemia in 2011 Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:53:46 +1300 I was sent seed of various colours of Velthiemia in 2011. Which are growing well. For some reason I didn't write down the name of the sender. It was from Australia. If this rings a bell with anyone, please let me know. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jgglatt@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 10:20:39 -0800 Message-Id: <52F90A2D.2070702@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Wood Lot Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:19:41 -0500 And then there is the wood lot. Our property is about 9 acres. Part is garden, and part is where we get firewood for the wood burning stove (greatly assisted by Superstorm Sandy that knocked down over 20 mature red oak trees. Nothing much in the way of interesting natives.) So "wood lot" is the name for where trees would be harvested. Another, appropriate for my region and this time of year is "sugar bush", an area with sugar maple trees tapped for their sweet sap that is boiled down into maple syrup, a 40:1 reduction. Judy in New Jersey where it snowed, again, on Sunday. Our 13th snowstorm this winter. And something nasty coming our way on Wednesday. Other years, I've had flowers in the open garden. This year - cannot even *see* the garden. --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:17:33 -0800 Message-Id: <005001cf268d$e4b3da30$ae1b8e90$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 10:28:17 -0800 > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back yard???? It occurs to me that in all of our essays on this subject (including mine), we haven't decided what term should be used when trying to describe this sort of space to an American. So, since there is no specific term in American English, what I recommend is that you use the generic phrase "work space." As in, "that's my work space, where I chop wood and wash the car." I think most Americans will understand that as a non-decorative space devoted to utilitarian purposes, which is what I think you're after. Hope that helps, Mike From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:28:37 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:41:40 +0000 Yes Mike, it is a fair representation, but every time somebody in the U.S. writes "back yard" I have a vision of rubbish bins and log piles! I was after getting people to think about their words meaning different things in other parts of the world. "Bloom" was the word which started the discussion. My use of it is much more specific than the general American. "Back yard" was a more provocative example. As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a dwelling? In British English, the American term "yard" would probably translate as "curtilage". The word is more often used in legal circumstances though. Peter (UK) On 10 February 2014 18:28, Michael Mace wrote: > > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back > yard???? > > It occurs to me that in all of our essays on this subject (including mine), > we haven't decided what term should be used when trying to describe this > sort of space to an American. > > So, since there is no specific term in American English, what I recommend > is > that you use the generic phrase "work space." As in, "that's my work > space, > where I chop wood and wash the car." > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:28:37 -0800 Message-Id: <1392062260.27146.YahooMailNeo@web121302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 11:57:40 -0800 (PST) Peter's latest post has brought this discussion to the point I've been waiting for: a discussion of the meaning of the word "garden".  Early twentieth century writers seemed to use the word with a keener sense of its history and etymology than we do now. To them, a garden was an enclosed space. How different the concept is now: the only enclosures which characterize most modern gardens are either of the chain link variety or of a highly metaphoric sort.   With that early twentieth century concept in mind, most modern gardens strike me as being inside-out. I think of them as sprawl gardens, because the plantings seem to develop from the walls of the house outward until the space is filled. That's a big contrast to those sites where the house stands alone and is surrounded - at a distance and probably on the other side of a lawn - by the ornamental plantings  which in turn are bounded by a hedge or other enclosure which is part of the design and not simply a utilitarian afterthought. Have at it, everyone! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, and still frozen. On Monday, February 10, 2014 2:42 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: Yes Mike, it is a fair representation, but every time somebody in the U.S. writes "back yard" I have a vision of rubbish bins and log piles! I was after getting people to think about their words meaning different things in other parts of the world. "Bloom" was the word which started the discussion. My use of it is much more specific than the general American. "Back yard" was a more provocative example. As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a dwelling? In British English, the American term "yard" would probably translate as "curtilage". The word is more often used in legal circumstances though. Peter (UK) On 10 February 2014 18:28, Michael Mace wrote: > > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back > yard???? > > It occurs to me that in all of our essays on this subject (including mine), > we haven't decided what term should be used when trying to describe this > sort of space to an American. > > So, since there is no specific term in American English, what I recommend > is > that you use the generic phrase "work space."  As in, "that's my work > space, > where I chop wood and wash the car." > From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:28:37 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 15:00:31 -0500 Well, Peter...there are more of us (who cannot understand your usages) than there are of you (who cannot understand ours). Rule, Britannia? All in good humor (humour), of course - Ellen On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 2:41 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > Yes Mike, > it is a fair representation, but every time somebody in the U.S. writes > "back yard" I have a vision of rubbish bins and log piles! > I was after getting people to think about their words meaning different > things in other parts of the world. "Bloom" was the word which started the > discussion. My use of it is much more specific than the general American. > "Back yard" was a more provocative example. > As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do > with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, > perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a > dwelling? > In British English, the American term "yard" would probably translate as > "curtilage". The word is more often used in legal circumstances though. > Peter (UK) > > > On 10 February 2014 18:28, Michael Mace wrote: > > > > But, please, what is the U.S.A. English term for the British back > > yard???? > > > > It occurs to me that in all of our essays on this subject (including > mine), > > we haven't decided what term should be used when trying to describe this > > sort of space to an American. > > > > So, since there is no specific term in American English, what I recommend > > is > > that you use the generic phrase "work space." As in, "that's my work > > space, > > where I chop wood and wash the car." > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:28:37 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 20:09:50 +0000 On 8 February 2014 17:25, Peter Taggart wrote: :p > > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:28:37 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 12:12:29 -0800 Peter wrote As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do >with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, >perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a >dwelling? Not very recently if at all. Both "garden" and "yard" are descended from Old Germanic "gart" 'enclosure', but "guard" (and "warden, etc.") come from Germanic "wart-" meaning "(keep) watch." That's why "guard" in English has a "u" in it; "guard" and "ward" form what philologists call a doublet, being two words from one ancient source that have entered a language at different times. Incidentally, the old British and current US unit of measurement "yard" is traced to "gart" 'stick', but I wonder if 'enclosure' may have been an extension of 'stick' because of the ancient practice of setting up stockades. One would have to go back farther than Germanic to find out. Peter, if this is an ongoing interest, you can subscribe to the Oxford English Dictionary under OEDOnline. It's expensive, so I don't have a current subscription, but I had free access when I was working directly for Oxford UP. It's all to easy to get "lost in the web of words," the title of a book about the founding editor of the OED. You would also have fun reading "How to Kill a Dragon" by Calvert Watkins. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, just starting to thaw. From penstemon@Q.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <0219D8B5030C4776A036CC9B5CFE5DA1@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 13:19:25 -0700 As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a dwelling? You would have to go back further than Old Norse to find a connection; the OED suggests that the words up to that point had different meaning. Garden=enclosure; guard=custody. "Ward" comes into this somehow; there's a relationship there, probably. It seems to me that books like The New English Garden make attempts to define the word "garden" completely pointless. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado, USA From brad@alpinepfl.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <004801cf26be$14a05f90$3de11eb0$@alpinepfl.com> From: "Brad King" Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:13:24 -0500 Hi All, My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you kidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave my house whether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to find my yard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do there when I get there. If you want to carry on this British/ American English thing----Let start with----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a boot or a bonnet or a hood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you are in the UK or the USA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU know what they are talking about. The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. Respectfully submitted, Brad. Ontario Canada Zone 5b Above average snow fall and below average temperatures for the last 6 weeks. Only 2 and half more months until spring. From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 16:50:13 -0800 Brad, Welcome to the PBS. The eccentric enthusiasts of our esoteric hobby are up for discussing just about any topic - that can be a mixed blessing. The best way to enjoy lengthy discussions about the topics that interest you is to ask questions or otherwise start those discussions. And don't forget the PBX - for many of us it's reason enough by itself to justify membership. -| My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to > The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I > thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not > quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 > posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American > definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you > kidding me? ... The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I > come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 01:50:19 +0000 Wow, Brad's words sound pretty rude to me. PBS is the greatest bulb resource in the world and there are thousands of comments on many topics related to bulbs in the archives and they are produced all the time, from experts and from amateurs. From time to time something out of topic may come up and it makes no harm if people feel like commenting on them: it is part of the general climate of freedom and tolerance that we all try to maintain. As for your 25 the many rarities in the BX you will surely receive will amount for many times that sum. > > > My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to > > The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I > > thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not > > quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 > > posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American > > definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you > > kidding me? ... The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I > > come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <00f801cf26cf$4e495bf0$eadc13d0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 18:16:39 -0800 Brad wrote: >> Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you kidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. Welcome to PBS, Brad, and I'm sorry for your starting experience with the forum. We usually do focus on bulb-related discussions, but the list sometimes develops a kind of cabin fever where it goes off topic. I think maybe the nasty weather that many members have been living through has contributed to the latest outbreak. It's intensely annoying to some members, and I apologize for contributing to it. I hope you'll feel better about PBS after a year. The bulb and seed exchange alone is a huge reason to be a member, and I hope you'll take advantage of it. Meanwhile, since you're a new member, please tell us about your gardening activities. What sorts of bulbs do you grow there in Ontario? And are they in a greenhouse or out of doors? And do you have any questions we can help you with? Thanks, and again...welcome! Mike San Jose, CA PS: If you are receiving all of these messages individually, you might want to put your discussion forum subscription in digest mode. That way you'll receive only one or a couple of combined messages per day. It can cut down the annoyance factor. From pattoolan@hotmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: pat toolan Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:58:44 +1030 Brad you just came in on the conversation at the wrong time. Since I have been following it over the last year there has been so much discussion on various bulbs that I have learnt much from members who live in varying countries and climates.Hang in there you will find your money was not ill spent. Pat Toolan PO Box 568, Angaston SA 5353 08 85 648 286 > From: brad@alpinepfl.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:13:24 -0500 > Subject: [pbs] OMG > > Hi All, > > > > My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to > The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I > thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not > quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 > posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American > definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you > kidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave my house > whether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to find my > yard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do there when > I get there. > > If you want to carry on this British/ American English thing----Let start > with----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a boot or a bonnet or a > hood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you are in the UK or the > USA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU know what they are > talking about. > > The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I > come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. > > Respectfully submitted, > > > > Brad. > > Ontario Canada > > Zone 5b > > Above average snow fall and below average temperatures for the last 6 weeks. > > Only 2 and half more months until spring. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Steven Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:50:31 +1000 Hey Brad, I bet you if you ask a geophyte question, someone here will beable to answer it, & will happily do so !!! The BX seed exchange is what your really paying to keep alive.. A place where people csn share seeds if they choose to.. That's worth the money.. I've paid that much to take someone for a coffee ! Steven : ) On 11/02/2014, at 10:13 AM, "Brad King" wrote: > Hi All, > > > > My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to > The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I > thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not > quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 > posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American > definition of words like yard, > Brad. > > Ontario Canada > > Zone 5b > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From plantsman@comcast.net Mon, 10 Feb 2014 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20140211034801.760DFE8C64@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:47:20 -0800 Amen, Brad. I was already looking for the PBS unsubscribe page myself but then Roy Herald posted that spectacular photo of his flowering Massonia plant just before I could unsubscribe. For me, posts like that one reminded me of why I joined. Besides, any topic or message, including this one, that anyone thinks is self-indulgent or insulting drivel can easily be ignored and deleted. As you mentioned, there are have been plenty of those recently but I strongly urge you to hold out for the good stuff. Those are the unexpected topics worth waiting for. If you are not convinced, and still decide to unsubscribe from this listserv, I suggest you ask Dell (the person who masterfully handles the seed and bulb exchanges) to email the BX announcements directly to you. That way you won't have to rely on this listserv to find out about them. As you might expect, there are usually many more BX announcements late in the summer through autumn than now. Best Regards, Nathan At 04:13 PM 2/10/2014, you wrote: >Hi All, > > > >My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to >The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I >thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not >quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 >posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American >definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you >kidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave my house >whether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to find my >yard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do there when >I get there. > >If you want to carry on this British/ American English thing----Let start >with----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a boot or a bonnet or a >hood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you are in the UK or the >USA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU know what they are >talking about. > >The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I >come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. > >Respectfully submitted, > > > >Brad. > >Ontario Canada > >Zone 5b > >Above average snow fall and below average temperatures for the last 6 weeks. > >Only 2 and half more months until spring. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From meneice@ATT.net Mon, 10 Feb 2014 22:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <002001cf26ed$0fcf9240$2f6eb6c0$@ATT.net> From: "Shirley Meneice" Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 21:49:41 -0800 Dear Brad: As a fellow Camellia enthusiast who has wandered into the world of bulbs and corms, let me suggest you use a bit of patience with the "off topic" comments you object to. Just skip those and revel in the information you will find and in the offers of bulbs and seeds that are seldom available elsewhere. Or you could join Facebook, but I suspect you wouldn't find it very helpful -- even after 319 days. Shirley Meneice -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Brad King Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 4:13 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] OMG Hi All, My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed to The List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization I thought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's not quite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100 posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/American definition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are you kidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave my house whether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to find my yard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do there when I get there. If you want to carry on this British/ American English thing----Let start with----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a boot or a bonnet or a hood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you are in the UK or the USA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU know what they are talking about. The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before I come up with another $25 (that's American) next year. Respectfully submitted, Brad. Ontario Canada Zone 5b Above average snow fall and below average temperatures for the last 6 weeks. Only 2 and half more months until spring. From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 10 Feb 2014 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52F9C0C2.2080500@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:18:42 +1300 I am on both Facebook and the PBS forum, and would not be without either. I have got some lovelyseeds and bulbs through my Facebook contacts, including finding more local contacts too. For knowledge it is still a lot of it through the PBS, but not all certainly. So don't knock FB, I use and need both. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 11/02/2014 6:49 p.m., Shirley Meneice wrote: > Or you could join Facebook, but I suspect you wouldn't find it > very helpful -- even after 319 days. From rredbbeard@yahoo.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 00:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1392104255.35363.BPMail_high_carrier@web120406.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell Subject: OMG Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 23:37:35 -0800 (PST) Complaints like this are much more effective if you put your hands on your hips..... Message: 9Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:13:24 -0500From: "Brad King" Subject: [pbs] OMGTo: Message-ID: <004801cf26be$14a05f90$3de11eb0$@alpinepfl.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"Hi All,My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined the PBS and subscribed toThe List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined this organization Ithought I would learn things. Even though I am learning things it's notquite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have received about 100posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the British/Americandefinition of words like yard, garden and their various forms. Are youkidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave my housewhether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to find myyard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do there whenI get there.If you want to carry on this British/ American English thing----Let startwith----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a boot or a bonnet or ahood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you are in the UK or theUSA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU know what they aretalking about. The quality of the forums are going to have to improve considerably before Icome up with another $25 (that's American) next year.Respectfully submitted, Brad. Ontario CanadaZone 5bAbove average snow fall and below ... From banderson805@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Ben Anderson Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 07:34:46 -0800 I wonder sometimes if people's tolerance for off-topic discussion is affected by the variety of ways emails can be displayed in email clients/portals. For example, I am using gmail, and my inbox is split into tabs, one of which grabs all incoming forum threads, including PBS. Within this tab, I currently have 29 emails displayed as a single line on the topic "Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard. I find this system very non-cluttery, even with multiple organizations forums and associated off-topic banter. And no, I am not affiliated with Google in any way. I find this system appealing and wonder if it, or similar email portals, might be useful for some people struggling with lots of incoming emails. Ben Anderson On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 11:37 PM, Rick Buell wrote: > > Complaints like this are much more effective if you put your hands on your > hips..... > > Message: 9Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:13:24 -0500From: "Brad King" < > brad@alpinepfl.com>Subject: [pbs] OMGTo: Message-ID: > <004801cf26be$14a05f90$3de11eb0$@alpinepfl.com>Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="US-ASCII"Hi All,My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined > the PBS and subscribed toThe List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined > this organization Ithought I would learn things. Even though I am learning > things it's notquite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have > received about 100posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the > British/Americandefinition of words like yard, garden and their various > forms. Are youkidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave > my housewhether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to > find myyard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do > there whenI get there.If you want to carry on this British/ American English > thing----Let startwith----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a > boot or a bonnet or ahood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you > are in the UK or theUSA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU > know what they aretalking about. The quality of the forums are going to > have to improve considerably before Icome up with another $25 (that's > American) next year.Respectfully submitted, Brad. Ontario CanadaZone > 5bAbove average snow fall and below ... > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From robertpries@embarqmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392908324.14149554.1392136264610.JavaMail.root@embarqmail.com> From: "Robert Pries " Subject: INVITE Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:31:04 -0500 (EST) I invite all of you on the bulb forum to have some fun showing off what iridaceae you grow in the First International Virtual Iris Show. There are separate sections for Junos, Reticulatas, Dutch, and other Irids (Dietes, Crocus, Ferraria, Moreae, etc). It is an experiment in digital communication but should offer some great bragging rights. Entries can be submitted over the next several months as your plants come into bloom. See this link for more information. http://wiki.irises.org/bin/view/Main/VirtualIrisShow The show includes all Iris and Irids. I am in the process of getting prizes donated but each entry will receive a virtual ribbon/certificate of entry. Classes can be divided if for example I get 50 Irids we may break them into genera as entries come in. An entry is four pictures, as specified in the directions. Hope we can all have fun with this. From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <0l6GB8Eijm+SFwHs@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:16:02 +0000 Hi, In message , Ben Anderson writes >I wonder sometimes if people's tolerance for off-topic discussion is >affected by the variety of ways emails can be displayed in email It is called "folder routing", most email programs have it built in, but you may have to do some work setting up rules to filter emails. It is better than using this list in digest mode. Once you learn how to use folder routing it can help manage all your email, not just this list. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From tylus_seklos@aol.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F56EA373F2DE-1E4-2090F@webmail-m300.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 13:31:39 -0500 (EST) It's like this.... If you go to Wal - Mart, there will be things you are not interested in - and you just pass them by without a moment's notice. As said before - if you are unhappy with the quality of the discussions, feel free to raise the bar yourself. I just ignore what is worthy of ignoring, and enjoy the rest. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world tylus_seklos@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Ben Anderson To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 1:22 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] OMG I wonder sometimes if people's tolerance for off-topic discussion is affected by the variety of ways emails can be displayed in email clients/portals. For example, I am using gmail, and my inbox is split into tabs, one of which grabs all incoming forum threads, including PBS. Within this tab, I currently have 29 emails displayed as a single line on the topic "Re: [pbs] off topic, bloom / flower / back yard. I find this system very non-cluttery, even with multiple organizations forums and associated off-topic banter. And no, I am not affiliated with Google in any way. I find this system appealing and wonder if it, or similar email portals, might be useful for some people struggling with lots of incoming emails. Ben Anderson On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 11:37 PM, Rick Buell wrote: > > Complaints like this are much more effective if you put your hands on your > hips..... > > Message: 9Date: Mon, 10 Feb 2014 19:13:24 -0500From: "Brad King" < > brad@alpinepfl.com>Subject: [pbs] OMGTo: Message-ID: > <004801cf26be$14a05f90$3de11eb0$@alpinepfl.com>Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="US-ASCII"Hi All,My Name is Brad and I have just recently joined > the PBS and subscribed toThe List. I paid my $25 on Jan 23th. When I joined > this organization Ithought I would learn things. Even though I am learning > things it's notquite what I expected. Since joining 19 days ago I have > received about 100posts, of these, half of them have been the debate on the > British/Americandefinition of words like yard, garden and their various > forms. Are youkidding me? What a waste of space in this forum. When I leave > my housewhether it's via the front door or the back door, I know where to > find myyard, my garden and my flower beds. And I know what I want to do > there whenI get there.If you want to carry on this British/ American English > thing----Let startwith----What is Football? Then let's move to what is a > boot or a bonnet or ahood or a trunk? The important thing is whether you > are in the UK or theUSA when someone mentions these things to you-----YOU > know what they aretalking about. The quality of the forums are going to > have to improve considerably before Icome up with another $25 (that's > American) next year.Respectfully submitted, Brad. Ontario CanadaZone > 5bAbove average snow fall and below ... > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392144158.76775.YahooMailNeo@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Lachenalia mutabilis, Feb 11, 2014 Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 10:42:38 -0800 (PST) A couple shots of Lachenalia mutabilis, purchased this past weekend, at the San Diego Cactus and Succulent Society Winter Show and Sale. http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/12462971425/in/photostream/lightbox/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/12462966515/in/photostream/lightbox/ Ken Blackford San Diego  ZONE 10-11 From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: OMG Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:52:14 -0600 Hi folks, I think enough opinions have been said on this topic and we may allow this thread to rest in peace. Let's get back to discussing geophytes. :) I'm away from my Berkeley home base for a while, spending some time here in the Great Frozen North of Minnesota. At the moment, temps fluctuate around 0F (-17C) so no Mediterranean-type winter geophytes will survive. This autumn I saw a fruiting of Clintonia borealis, a true cold hardy species. I believe the local woods also host Sanguinaria canadensis, a really elegant spring flower that I encountered once in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. I longed to see those again and I think I'll get a chance to see them when the snow melts, whenever that happens to be (hopefully March and not May). Nhu PBS President On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 12:31 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ben Anderson > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 1:22 pm > Subject: Re: [pbs] OMG > From oldtulips@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <95DDA8D6-679C-4C98-823B-2EA6CC644AFC@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: off topic yards and gardens Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:06:46 -0500 I passed this discussion on to a family member who is a language professor specializing in Old English and this was his response regarding the ancient root words for garden and yard as in back yard: "All of these words are related. Comparative study of Indo-European languages suggests that an early Germanic word *war-, meaning "to watch or guard" was the basis for all of them. The variety in modern English is due to overlapping waves of influence. A noun form of the word, *gardo-z, meaning a small piece on enclosed land, became garthr in Old Norse. To the south it was borrowed into popular Latin as *gardinumand thence in to modern French jardin and Italian giardino. It was also carried to England by the Anglo-Saxons as geard, where the pronunciation of the initial g was softened to y, giving modern English yard. Later, when the Normans invaded England, they brought a variant of the French version, gardin, which led to the modern English garden. This word had develop the more specific meaning of an enclosed, cultivated space, so the two words continued to existed side by side. Meanwhile, Scandinavians entering the north of England brought garthrwith them, and it left the word gard or gart in northern English dialects. Guard and warden come from the same Germanic root but took different paths that led to the different initial vowel sounds.” Rimmer de Vries Southeast Michigan continental Zone 5- coldest and snowiest winter in memory the pink and yellow Velthiemia are blooming nicely by my window On Feb 10, 2014, at 3:19 PM, penstemon wrote: > > As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do > with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, > perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a > dwelling? > > You would have to go back further than Old Norse to find a connection; the > OED suggests that the words up to that point had different meaning. > Garden=enclosure; guard=custody. "Ward" comes into this somehow; there's a > relationship there, probably. > It seems to me that books like The New English Garden make attempts to > define the word "garden" completely pointless. > > > Bob Nold, > Denver, Colorado, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1238721682.21268.1392147671986.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j09> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 20:41:11 +0100 (CET) Hello All, Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. The single form is more elegant but more fleeting. S. canadensis 'Multiplex' spreads nicely here and after a few years I have quite a large patch. The sigle forms seems less spreading. I remember seeing carpets of this in Ontario around the lake shore woods. Quite a magical sight when mixed with Trillium grandiflorum from pure white to clear pinks. Anemonella thalictroides was common here too. An unforgettable sight! I've just seen that the latter is now classed as a Thalictrum. These eastern woods are quite something for geophytes. Mark The snowdrop season is well underway here, with companions: Cyclamen coum, C. persicum, Eranthis and Crocus tommasinianus. No sign of any corydalis yet. " Message du 11/02/14 19:52 > De : "Nhu Nguyen"   > Hi folks, ... I believe the local woods also host Sanguinaria canadensis, a really elegant > spring flower that I encountered once in the Great Smoky Mountain National > Park. I longed to see those again and I think I'll get a chance to see them > when the snow melts, whenever that happens to be (hopefully March and not > May). > > Nhu" From rherold@yahoo.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FA81A3.702@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:01:39 -0500 Sanguinaria fans should check out the new *pink* form being offered by the folks at Joe Pye Weed's Garden, also home to fantastic siberian iris. It really is pink--JPW is in the same town as me and I get to see it regularly. The ones they sell are all vegetatively propagated, so there is no seedling variation to worry about. Fear not, Mark, it should be showing up in the European nurseries soon. They've been shipping it overseas for a couple of seasons. --Roy NW of Boston. Big snow on the way... Mark BROWN wrote: > Hello All, > Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Virtual Iris show, was INVITE Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:02:17 -0800 Robert Pries wrote: >I invite all of you on the bulb forum to have some fun showing off >what iridaceae you grow in the First International Virtual Iris Show. Questions: Does the photo have to be taken during the same year as the show? What resolution should the photos be? I always downsize mine when e-mailing them, but I sometimes find myself waiting quite a while for a message from someone who doesn't. However, if Robert is going to put up the entries on a website, he may want smaller files, just as the PBS wiki requires. Like many other gardeners I went through a Tall Bearded Iris phase (I was relieved to learn that this isn't uncommon) and gave it up when I found that most of the modern cultivars aren't good subjects for the mixed garden, but I still grow a lot of species. I expect the Junos and aril hybrids in the bulb house have now finished emerging from the snow that piled up on them in our recent snowstorm accompanied by high winds, which blew snow through the hardware cloth sides of the "Mediterranean house" onto both moist and dry beds. It saves me some watering and may make the Central Asian species feel at home. A number of reticulatas have shaken it off already and opened their flowers, and Iris stenophylla subsp. allisonii, a Juno (Scorpiris, to be botanical about it), doesn't look much the worse for wear, even though it bears its purple flowers very close to the surface. Now to take the tarp off the seed shed and see what kind of survival has ensued, despite a space heater that turned out to be completely inadequate. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From tylus_seklos@aol.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F57C45BB4AA2-1E4-216DD@webmail-m300.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:09:16 -0500 (EST) I grew up seeing these in my grandmother's woods, and have a small area in my garden today. They are very special plants - I did not know there were any cultivars other than the species. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world tylus_seklos@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Mark BROWN To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 2:41 pm Subject: [pbs] Sanguinaria Hello All, Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. The single form is more elegant but more fleeting. S. canadensis 'Multiplex' spreads nicely here and after a few years I have quite a large patch. The sigle forms seems less spreading. I remember seeing carpets of this in Ontario around the lake shore woods. Quite a magical sight when mixed with Trillium grandiflorum from pure white to clear pinks. Anemonella thalictroides was common here too. An unforgettable sight! I've just seen that the latter is now classed as a Thalictrum. These eastern woods are quite something for geophytes. Mark The snowdrop season is well underway here, with companions: Cyclamen coum, C. persicum, Eranthis and Crocus tommasinianus. No sign of any corydalis yet. " Message du 11/02/14 19:52 > De : "Nhu Nguyen" > Hi folks, ... I believe the local woods also host Sanguinaria canadensis, a really elegant > spring flower that I encountered once in the Great Smoky Mountain National > Park. I longed to see those again and I think I'll get a chance to see them > when the snow melts, whenever that happens to be (hopefully March and not > May). > > Nhu" From tylus_seklos@aol.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F57C7EB64C92-1E4-2170C@webmail-m300.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:10:52 -0500 (EST) WOW!!! Gorgeous! ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world tylus_seklos@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Roy Herold To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 3:02 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Sanguinaria Sanguinaria fans should check out the new *pink* form being offered by the folks at Joe Pye Weed's Garden, also home to fantastic siberian iris. It really is pink--JPW is in the same town as me and I get to see it regularly. The ones they sell are all vegetatively propagated, so there is no seedling variation to worry about. Fear not, Mark, it should be showing up in the European nurseries soon. They've been shipping it overseas for a couple of seasons. --Roy NW of Boston. Big snow on the way... Mark BROWN wrote: > Hello All, > Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Virtual Iris show, was INVITE Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:32:33 -0800 I asked Robert some questions so I will share what I have learned: Questions: What resolution should the photos be? Robert has informed me that he will resize photos sent to him. 2100 pixels across or larger is adequate resolution. He is aiming for 300 to 600 dpi for the 8" x 8" screen display, which on my screen was 7" x 7". When is the deadline? "Entries are submitted now until the end of July so all latitudes can enter. I (Robert) have already requests from Australia to do a second show starting after this one. " He also mentioned he will double check identification. - Gastil From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <48AE8FCE-0B9D-48A1-89C3-1CCCDC799AFE@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Hot I'n the lily patch ! Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 06:47:28 +1000 Well the temperature has reached new heights on my little mountain.. My average summer days have never reached above 34 to 36* C, my average being under 30* but this season the heat-waves have been far reaching & a staggering 40* & above took it's toll a few weeks ago.. I didn't have a big enough thermometer but closer to Brisbane touched 44... Most of my softer bulbs & lilies have quickly scorched & gone semi dormant. Various sporadic growths of both summer & winter bulbs have sprouted after rain, but watering got nowhere as the hot wind even evaporated overnight.. After 6 years of growing meadow saffron, combined with last dry season, they have all died I think.. The potted lilies really struggled but all my PBS BX Autumn growing bulbs have sprouted a month or 2 early.. Ina's zephyranthes seedlings were 3 weeks old & they got scorched to invisible I'n 3 hours, I thought they would be done for, but with lots of water they have sprouted again.. All I'n all it's been an interesting look at the resilience & adaptability of flower bulbs & lilies Steven : ) From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <303E8EA2-E41D-4C4F-A6DE-F346952F415E@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 12:59:16 -0800 What is the dark-leaved plant on the left if that photo? Diane On 2014-02-11, at 12:01 PM, Roy Herold wrote: > Sanguinaria fans should check out the new *pink* form being offered by > the folks at Joe Pye Weed's Garden, also home to fantastic siberian iris. > > > From rherold@yahoo.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FA912E.8000004@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:07:58 -0500 That's their Trillium pusillum 'Roadrunner'. Another fantastic plant. Diane Whitehead wrote: > What is the dark-leaved plant on the left if that photo? > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1392156801.52081.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:13:21 -0800 (PST) Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the weather report sounds ominous - again. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392157180.84486.YahooMailNeo@web121304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:19:40 -0800 (PST) I've had a similar form in my garden for decades. The one I have is not as nice as the Joe Pye Weed form; my plant produces flowers with just a bit of pink on the exterior. I've had it for so long that I don't remember where it came from, but I have a vague recollection that it came from Tennessee. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 2:41 PM, Mark BROWN wrote: Hello All, Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. The single form is more elegant but more fleeting. S. canadensis 'Multiplex' spreads nicely here and after a few years I have quite a large patch. The sigle forms seems less spreading. I remember seeing carpets of this in Ontario around the lake shore woods. Quite a magical sight when mixed with Trillium grandiflorum from pure white to clear pinks. Anemonella thalictroides was common here too. An unforgettable sight! I've just seen that the latter is now classed as a Thalictrum. These eastern woods are quite something for geophytes. Mark The snowdrop season is well underway here, with companions: Cyclamen coum, C. persicum, Eranthis and Crocus tommasinianus. No sign of any corydalis yet. " Message du 11/02/14 19:52 > De : "Nhu Nguyen"   > Hi folks, ... I believe the local woods also host Sanguinaria canadensis, a really elegant > spring flower that I encountered once in the Great Smoky Mountain National > Park. I longed to see those again and I think I'll get a chance to see them > when the snow melts, whenever that happens to be (hopefully March and not > May). > > Nhu" From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 22:30:14 +0000 My first thought was Lamiastrum but a quick Google search showed this website WHICH MY COMPUTER WARNS ME IS UNTRUSTED!!!!! Peter (UK) Search Results *ARCHANGEL MAT* - Get Social With Garden Juice! https://www.simplywaterbutts.co.uk/encyclopedia/aarons.../*archangel*-*ma* ... A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a > British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author > wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They > were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. > Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the weather report > sounds ominous - again. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: off topic yards and gardens Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:39:13 +1100 Hi Rimmer This new turn brings to mind one of my favourite gardens in Mount Wilson, a hill station settlement west of Sydney. The garden is named "Merrygarth" and I assume a reference to a happy place to be, within an enclosure. The name may also be a remembrance of a cherished place in England. The garden itself is well known to many of Sydney's gardening fraternity This garden is indeed well stocked with cool temperate geophytes including galanthus, lilium, erythronium and various other well known varieties So, there we have it - a tangible link between our enjoyable esoteric etymological discussion and geophytes Thanks Rimmer and thanks Peter in Scotland for starting us off! Peter in steamy cloudy and dry Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Rimmer Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 6:07 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic yards and gardens I passed this discussion on to a family member who is a language professor specializing in Old English and this was his response regarding the ancient root words for garden and yard as in back yard: "All of these words are related. Comparative study of Indo-European languages suggests that an early Germanic word *war-, meaning "to watch or guard" was the basis for all of them. The variety in modern English is due to overlapping waves of influence. A noun form of the word, *gardo-z, meaning a small piece on enclosed land, became garthr in Old Norse. To the south it was borrowed into popular Latin as *gardinumand thence in to modern French jardin and Italian giardino. It was also carried to England by the Anglo-Saxons as geard, where the pronunciation of the initial g was softened to y, giving modern English yard. Later, when the Normans invaded England, they brought a variant of the French version, gardin, which led to the modern English garden. This word had develop the more specific meaning of an enclosed, cultivated space, so the two words continued to existed side by side. Meanwhile, Scandinavians entering the north of England brought garthrwith them, and it left the word gard or gart in northern English dialects. Guard and warden come from the same Germanic root but took different paths that led to the different initial vowel sounds." Rimmer de Vries Southeast Michigan continental Zone 5- coldest and snowiest winter in memory the pink and yellow Velthiemia are blooming nicely by my window On Feb 10, 2014, at 3:19 PM, penstemon wrote: > > As an aside, I have a feeling that the word "garden" has something to do > with "guard house", in the days of castles and fortified houses. It would, > perhaps,have been the area between the inner and outer defended walls of a > dwelling? > > You would have to go back further than Old Norse to find a connection; the > OED suggests that the words up to that point had different meaning. > Garden=enclosure; guard=custody. "Ward" comes into this somehow; there's a > relationship there, probably. > It seems to me that books like The New English Garden make attempts to > define the word "garden" completely pointless. > > > Bob Nold, > Denver, Colorado, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 22:45:21 +0000 it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392159146.86366.YahooMailBasic@web122305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 14:52:26 -0800 (PST) I have several forms like this from Tennessee and northern Georgia. In all it is only the backs of the sepals that are pink, but it gives the appearance of a pinkish flower due to the thin texture and the pink showing through. The Joe Pye Weed form looks about the same and with proper lighting when taking images they look even more pink. Aaron Floden E Tennessee -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 2/12/14, Jim McKenney wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Sanguinaria To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Wednesday, February 12, 2014, 6:19 AM I've had a similar form in my garden for decades. The one I have is not as nice as the Joe Pye Weed form; my plant produces flowers with just a bit of pink on the exterior. I've had it for so long that I don't remember where it came from, but I have a vague recollection that it came from Tennessee. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: archangel mat Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:57:45 +1100 Hi Jim & Peter The reference to Archangel may come from the name of a northern region of Russia called Arkhangelskaya Oblast which has a coastline on the Arctic Ocean. The capital of this region we know as Archangel [Arkhangelsk in Russian] Do lime trees grow that far north? Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 9:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> From voltaire@islandnet.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1EE9C7D4-B93A-4151-82C1-BDF99AAEED73@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:16:02 -0800 Tilia are known as lime trees. Not a citrus. Diane On 2014-02-11, at 2:57 PM, Peter Franks wrote: > > > Do lime trees grow that far north? > From tylus_seklos@aol.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F596A368FBEC-1E4-22CF9@webmail-m300.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:17:59 -0500 (EST) I think you're thinking of LINDEN. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world tylus_seklos@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Diane Whitehead To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 11, 2014 6:16 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat Tilia are known as lime trees. Not a citrus. Diane On 2014-02-11, at 2:57 PM, Peter Franks wrote: > > > Do lime trees grow that far north? > From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: archangel mat Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:32:54 +1100 Thank you Diane I was aware of the difference Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diane Whitehead Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 10:16 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat Tilia are known as lime trees. Not a citrus. Diane On 2014-02-11, at 2:57 PM, Peter Franks wrote: > > > Do lime trees grow that far north? > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392161949.75596.YahooMailNeo@web121304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:39:09 -0800 (PST) Thanks, Peter, not only for the information but also for the link. That document was scanned at the USDA Agricultural Library which is about a half hour's drive from my home. But for the cost of gas for the car, I would be over there every day, at least during the non-gardening seasons. This library is the tallest building anywhere nearby its location. You can see it from far off. I like it because there is ALWAYS loads of free parking on the campus. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:45 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392162088.85868.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:41:28 -0800 (PST) i was totally thinking the same thing On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:38 PM, Diane Whitehead wrote: Tilia are known as lime trees.  Not a citrus. Diane On 2014-02-11, at 2:57 PM, Peter Franks wrote: > > > Do lime trees grow that far north? > From ksayce@willapabay.org Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Virtual Iris show, was INVITE Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 15:49:25 -0800 If you click on the link to the virtual iris show site, there are guidelines for photo orientations (flower from top, flower from side, flowering shoot, and a 4th optional photo, which could be full plant, multiple shoots, etc), and information on image size. See this link for more information.http://wiki.irises.org/bin/view/Main/VirtualIrisShow The show includes all Iris and Irids. I am in the process of getting prizes donated but each entry will receive a virtual ribbon/certificate of entry. Kathleen From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <016801cf2786$f0607d30$d1217790$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: off topic yards and gardens Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:11:11 -0500 Thank you! That made it all worth while. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Rimmer Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 2:07 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] off topic yards and gardens I passed this discussion on to a family member who is a language professor specializing in Old English and this was his response regarding the ancient root words for garden and yard as in back yard: "All of these words are related. Comparative study of Indo-European languages suggests that an early Germanic word *war-, meaning "to watch or guard" was the basis for all of them. The variety in modern English is due to overlapping waves of influence. A noun form of the word, *gardo-z, meaning a small piece on enclosed land, became garthr in Old Norse. To the south it was borrowed into popular Latin as *gardinumand thence in to modern French jardin and Italian giardino. It was also carried to England by the Anglo-Saxons as geard, where the pronunciation of the initial g was softened to y, giving modern English yard. Later, when the Normans invaded England, they brought a variant of the French version, gardin, which led to the modern English garden. This word had develop the more specific meaning of an enclosed, cultivated space, so the two words continued to existed side by side. Meanwhile, Scandinavians entering the north of England brought garthrwith them, and it left the word gard or gart in northern English dialects. Guard and warden come from the same Germanic root but took different paths that led to the different initial vowel sounds." Rimmer de Vries Southeast Michigan continental Zone 5- coldest and snowiest winter in memory the pink and yellow Velthiemia are blooming nicely by my window From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392164081.77117.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 16:14:41 -0800 (PST) Thanks, Peter, that add more to the story. The Wikipedia entry for Archangel [Arkhangelsk] mentions that the area is a center for the timber industry (but limes, Tilia, are not mentioned). Something funny: when I checked the Wikipedia entry, the side bar seemed be giving the current temperature in Archangel: 27 degrees F. The current temperature here in Maryland is 25 degrees F! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, evidently colder right now than the shores of the White Sea over 1750 miles north of here. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:58 PM, Peter Franks wrote: Hi Jim & Peter The reference to Archangel may come from the name of a northern region of Russia called Arkhangelskaya Oblast which has a coastline on the Arctic Ocean. The capital of this region we know as Archangel [Arkhangelsk in Russian] Do lime trees grow that far north? Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 9:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> From george.brinson@nf.sympatico.ca Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <9BEFC37FD4E44B4CBC0EB12931E53E6B@GeorgePC> From: "George Brinson" Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 21:23:29 -0330 Jim ...... are you certain that is 27 F. - maybe it might be -27 C. :)! Russia is on metric if I am not mistaken. George Brinson. -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat Thanks, Peter, that add more to the story. The Wikipedia entry for Archangel [Arkhangelsk] mentions that the area is a center for the timber industry (but limes, Tilia, are not mentioned). Something funny: when I checked the Wikipedia entry, the side bar seemed be giving the current temperature in Archangel: 27 degrees F. The current temperature here in Maryland is 25 degrees F! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, evidently colder right now than the shores of the White Sea over 1750 miles north of here. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:58 PM, Peter Franks wrote: Hi Jim & Peter The reference to Archangel may come from the name of a northern region of Russia called Arkhangelskaya Oblast which has a coastline on the Arctic Ocean. The capital of this region we know as Archangel [Arkhangelsk in Russian] Do lime trees grow that far north? Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 9:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1392168747.75293.YahooMailNeo@web121306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:32:27 -0800 (PST) George, take a look at the Wikipedia entry: it distinctly shows 27 degrees F. And it does not show -27 degrees F. If you Google "Archangel, Russia, current temperature" it shows a similar reading.  And 27 degrees C would be closer to what Buenos Aires is enjoying (22 C) right now. Jim McKenney  On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:09 PM, George Brinson wrote: Jim ...... are you certain that is 27 F. - maybe it might be  -27 C. :)! Russia is on metric if I am not mistaken. George Brinson. -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat Thanks, Peter, that add more to the story. The Wikipedia entry for Archangel [Arkhangelsk] mentions that the area is a center for the timber industry (but limes, Tilia, are not mentioned). Something funny: when I checked the Wikipedia entry, the side bar seemed be giving the current temperature in Archangel: 27 degrees F. The current temperature here in Maryland is 25 degrees F! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, evidently colder right now than the shores of the White Sea over 1750 miles north of here. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:58 PM, Peter Franks wrote: Hi Jim & Peter The reference to Archangel may come from the name of a northern region of Russia called Arkhangelskaya Oblast which has a coastline on the Arctic Ocean. The capital of this region we know as Archangel [Arkhangelsk in Russian] Do lime trees grow that far north? Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 9:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> From george.brinson@nf.sympatico.ca Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <2326DE2F16824395B0D27A78B4BBC295@GeorgePC> From: "George Brinson" Subject: archangel mat Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 22:18:08 -0330 Hi again Jim........... I just checked the current weather there, it's -3 C. and you are correct, it is 27 F. !! 5 am on a Wednesday morning, actually. You are "right on" the mark. :) George Brinson in Newfoundland, Canada, where it is currently -12 C. or 10 F., and we are due some snow/rain mix from "down" your way, by late Thursday. Winter continues. -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 10:02 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat George, take a look at the Wikipedia entry: it distinctly shows 27 degrees F. And it does not show -27 degrees F. If you Google "Archangel, Russia, current temperature" it shows a similar reading. And 27 degrees C would be closer to what Buenos Aires is enjoying (22 C) right now. Jim McKenney On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:09 PM, George Brinson wrote: Jim ...... are you certain that is 27 F. - maybe it might be -27 C. :)! Russia is on metric if I am not mistaken. George Brinson. -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2014 8:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat Thanks, Peter, that add more to the story. The Wikipedia entry for Archangel [Arkhangelsk] mentions that the area is a center for the timber industry (but limes, Tilia, are not mentioned). Something funny: when I checked the Wikipedia entry, the side bar seemed be giving the current temperature in Archangel: 27 degrees F. The current temperature here in Maryland is 25 degrees F! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, evidently colder right now than the shores of the White Sea over 1750 miles north of here. On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 5:58 PM, Peter Franks wrote: Hi Jim & Peter The reference to Archangel may come from the name of a northern region of Russia called Arkhangelskaya Oblast which has a coastline on the Arctic Ocean. The capital of this region we know as Archangel [Arkhangelsk in Russian] Do lime trees grow that far north? Peter in Sydney -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Peter Taggart Sent: Wednesday, 12 February 2014 9:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] archangel mat it is a mat for protecting frames from frost in spring, it measures 5 feet by 8 feet. see here, page 94 https://archive.org/details/seedsplantsbulbs18rjfa Peter (UK) On 11 February 2014 22:30, Peter Taggart wrote: > A *mat*, made in Russia, from the inner bark of Lime trees, used for > covering garden *frames* to keep out frost. *...* Greenhouse *plants* of > slender growth, with brightly-coloured, funnel-shaped *flowers* in > summer; they are suitable in cultivation in *...* > > > On 11 February 2014 22:13, Jim McKenney wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me what an archangel mat is? I ran across the term in a >> British gardening book published in the early 1950s: the way the author >> wrote, it seems that by that time they were already becoming uncommon. They >> were recommended for covering cold frames in severe weather. >> Is the term an old generic term for some sort of floor mat? >> >> _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <569388B0-21A7-426A-9CB0-4EE2DAB707A4@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 18:49:38 -0800 Here are some blue and purple flowering bulbs now open in my garden. Several of these were planted a couple months later than normal and all were delayed in receiving their first fall watering. Romulea linarsii - just opened the first sunny day in awhile Crocus minimus - one last bloom just finishing Scilla peruviana - just a few early ones starting to open Ixia rapunculoides - peak bloom in the plunge bed but still in bud in an adjacent raised bed Gladiolus caeruleus - past peak bloom, with one stalk still blooming in the sand plunge Tristagma uniflorum (syn. Ipheion uniflorum) - just beginning, started opening a couple weeks ago Iris reticulata - only one of the five varieties is open Freesia laxa - at peak bloom now, with the first early flowers already forming seed pods Two non-geophyte annuals in this set of photos I use as reference blue colors: Baby blue eyes and Cornflower. The color chart included in each photo is a way of precisely comparing blue hues. http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/sets/72157640836559334/ There are also just a few Muscari which opened after the day I took those photos. The Dichelostemma capitatum are in bud. And a Moraea polystachya bud was tight this morning but I expect tomorrow it will open. - Gastil Santa Barbara, California 34.5 N latitude, 91 ft elevation, approximately zone 9b or 10a From brad@alpinepfl.com Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cf279e$8a7f7a80$9f7e6f80$@alpinepfl.com> From: "Brad King" Subject: Hymenocallis Pygmaea Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 22:00:09 -0500 Hi All, Late last spring I acquired an Hymenocallis Pygmaea? seedling. I planted it in a clay pot and it spent the summer in the corner of my Koi pond. (safely away from the fish) With the water level at the same height as the soil. In the fall it was moved to an east facing window with the pot in another pot of water at the same level. It seems to be doing OK. Albeit, I feel it is slow. Any thoughts anyone would have on this would be greatly appreciated. I have read all the archived posts in the PBS list on Hymenocallis. Thanks, Brad. Ontario Canada Zone 5b Currently clear and cold -17 C (0 F) From plantsman@comcast.net Tue, 11 Feb 2014 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20140212035802.18D1BE8A9A@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Tue, 11 Feb 2014 19:57:56 -0800 Aaron, have you ever tried growing any Sanguinaria from the more northern regions of its range, say Michigan, Minnesota, or Canada? I wonder how well selections native to northern states grow in warmer areas equivalent to USDA hardiness zones 8 or 9. Anyone successfully growing the Joe Pye Weed form in a locale with significantly warmer winters than the Boston, Mass area? I checked today and the more southern native Sanguinaria I have from Aaron is already in bud, weeks ahead of last year. I doubt that Sanguinaria selections originally native to colder Northern regions could ever receive enough vernalization to flower well here in near-coastal California, but I sure hope I'm wrong. The UC Berkeley Botanical Garden lists a specimen collected from Saratoga County, New York in 2008. Anyone know how well that one is doing? Nathan At 02:52 PM 2/11/2014, you wrote: >I have several forms like this from Tennessee and northern Georgia. >In all it is only the backs of the sepals that are pink, but it >gives the appearance of a pinkish flower due to the thin texture and >the pink showing through. The Joe Pye Weed form looks about the same >and with proper lighting when taking images they look even more pink. > > Aaron Floden > E Tennessee > > >-------------------------------------------- >On Wed, 2/12/14, Jim McKenney wrote: > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Sanguinaria > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Date: Wednesday, February 12, 2014, 6:19 AM > > I've had a similar > form in my garden for decades. The one I have is not as nice > as the Joe Pye Weed form; my plant produces flowers with > just a bit of pink on the exterior. > I've had it for so long that I don't > remember where it came from, but I have a vague recollection > that it came from Tennessee. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, > Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Wed, 12 Feb 2014 01:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1362856692.38923.1392193765606.JavaMail.www@wwinf1f07> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Sanguinaria & Joe Pye Weeds Iris Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:29:25 +0100 (CET) Dear Roy, what a wonderful soft pink it is. I was afraid it might be like the pink Anemone nemorosa, a bit too pink. And good news that it is available in Europe. But WOW to their sibirian iris!! Some unique coulours. I hope these will make it to Europe too soon. Best regards, Mark   > Message du 11/02/14 21:02 > De : "Roy Herold" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Sanguinaria > > Sanguinaria fans should check out the new *pink* form being offered by > the folks at Joe Pye Weed's Garden, also home to fantastic siberian iris. > > > > It really is pink--JPW is in the same town as me and I get to see it > regularly. The ones they sell are all vegetatively propagated, so there > is no seedling variation to worry about. > > Fear not, Mark, it should be showing up in the European nurseries soon. > They've been shipping it overseas for a couple of seasons. > > --Roy > NW of Boston. Big snow on the way... > > Mark BROWN wrote: > > Hello All, > > Sanguinaria is one of my all time favourites. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From paige@hillkeep.ca Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Paige Woodward Subject: Sanguinaria Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:28:49 -0800 If other pink Sanguinaria as fine as the Joe Pye Weed one are out there in the wild, I hope they will be brought into cultivation. I am lucky enough to have quite a lot of the Joe Pye Weed pink Sanguinaria. It is indeed only the backs of the sepals that are pink, but this selection is by far the best of the several I have tested. The plants are more robust and the pink is deeper. I had imagined that freezing winters with snowcover, like those in Joe Pye Weed's Maine, might be required for the expression of this deeper pink, but not so. Winter temperatures where I am occasionally drop below freezing, but usually they are just cold. And rainy. Paige Woodward Wet Zone 6 SW British Columbia On Feb 11, 2014, at 2:52 PM, aaron floden wrote: > I have several forms like this from Tennessee and northern Georgia. In all it is only the backs of the sepals that are pink, but it gives the appearance of a pinkish flower due to the thin texture and the pink showing through. The Joe Pye Weed form looks about the same and with proper lighting when taking images they look even more pink. From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1392226577.72793.YahooMailNeo@web121304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: off topic, bloom / flower / back yard Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:36:17 -0800 (PST) One more yard Before we leave our discussion of yards,  I want to mention one which has long filled me with a sense of queasiness or downright revulsion. In his account of celery in his 1629 Paradisus, John Parkinson (he knew celery as sweet parsley or sweet smallage)  mentions that the first place he saw it was in a Venetian ambassador’s garden near Bishop’s Gate Street in London. So far, so good – but Parkinson also states that the celery grew in the spittle yard of that establishment. If you’ve ever grown celery, you know that it needs lots of water; was the celery planted in the spittle yard to take advantage of the abundant moist sputum expectorated by loitering Jacobean dandies? I first read that passage decades ago, and to this day I can’t look at celery without remembering it – and then washing my celery very carefully.    For more on this topic, see here: http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2014/02/spit-on-your-smallage.html Jim McKenney On Saturday, February 8, 2014 12:25 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: In my vocabulary (a form of English from Britain), a 'bloom' describes an individual flower such as might be mounted on a board or examined in order to compare with blooms from other related plants. Blossom is a mass of flowers. To me a 'yard' is either a measurement, or a utilitarian space -"stable yard", "timber yard", "truck yard", "kennel yard". A "back yard" to me is the space at the back of my house where I wash pots, mend the car, chop logs..... The "garden" is an amenity space where I grow plants, or children play on the lawn.... I would like to know the American English term for a  utilitarian space such as the British 'back yard'. :p Peter (UK) On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 10:30 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > > Subject: Re: [pbs] what's in bloom > > According to my Oxford English Dict., in this instance, flower would more > correct, but there don't seem to be any hard and fast rules.  Anyway, > there's always inflorescence to fall back on. > > And efflorescence for the other. > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From leo@possi.org Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Hymenocallis Pygmaea Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 09:54:48 -0800 (PST) Brad asked > Late last spring I acquired an Hymenocallis Pygmaea? > seedling. I planted it in a clay pot and it spent the > summer in the corner of my Koi pond.... In the fall it > was moved to an east facing window with the pot in > another pot of water at the same level. It seems > to be doing OK. Albeit, I feel it is slow. While I haven't grown this plant, other Hymenocallis grow during warm weather, and do best in mostly full sun. I wouldn't expect much from your pygmy during the winter. Next summer keep it as warm as possible in Canada and give it a lot of sun. You will also see that overpotting Hymenocallis is a very good idea. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From ksayce@willapabay.org Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <2D323A41-7DA1-4C7C-81B8-A041E5380BF5@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:09:13 -0800 Nice photos, Gastil. Just about everything you photographed, I had to give away, or it died before I could do so, due to my garden being too wet and cool for that species. Massive climate envy! Your idea of taking photos with Pantone color cards is good. Photographs don't always document the colors we 'see' in flowers. So I'm curious, using these cards, how close could you get to specific flower colors? Cheers, Kathleen Kathleen Sayce PNW coast, on a soggy overcast morning From bulot@cerege.fr Wed, 12 Feb 2014 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52FBBA99.20009@cerege.fr> From: "Luc G. Bulot" Subject: Looking for an email address to contact Brian Mathew Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 19:16:57 +0100 Hi all, I am in need to contact Brian Mathew by email... I could not find any on the Kew Royal Botanical Gardens website... Can anyone provide me with a valid contact ? If more appropriate please get in touch privately with me on my professionnal addres : bulot@cerege.fr Thanks in advance, Best regards, Dr. Luc G. Bulot, UMR CNRS 7630 Cerege, Aix-Marseille University, France From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 10:46:01 -0800 Hi Kathleen, Well the climate envy goes both ways. :) Those Colchicum autumnale I received from you via the PBS BX 321 in August 2012 just have not thrived at all in my garden, likely because it is so much drier and warmer here. I ordered several species bulbs from a nursery in the PNW for the first time last year and have been giving them extra dollops of stored rain water but I expect they will not thrive like they would in your garden. Kathleen wrote: "Photographs don't always document the colors we 'see' in flowers. So I'm curious, using these cards, how close could you get to specific flower colors?" Good question. I am learning how to document color. When I see a flower in the garden, the color I perceive is influenced by its surroundings and the lighting. Sometimes even with the Pantone color chart I think I have captured the color match but then upon reviewing the photographs I see it is not an exact match. There is not only the expected variation between plants but also shades within a single petal. The color chart is more precise than my blue painters' tape but even that common blue tape is better for my purpose than no reference at all. Awhile back someone mentioned on this list that a catalog photo seemed over saturated. Imagine if the catalogs included a calibrated color chart. - Gastil From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 11:13:11 -0800 Some of the blue- or purple-flowered bulbs Gastil lists can't be grown here in northwestern Oregon, or flower a bit later, but we may succeed with some that don't do as well in her coastal southern California location. Those showing blue color here today (two days after the temperature finally rose above freezing for the first time in a week): Crocus baytopiorum, the truest blue in that genus Hyacinthella atchleyi and a couple of other Hyacinthella species Puschkinia libanotica, in the open garden under a bare tree, among Cyclamen coum Scilla sibirica subsp. taurica, a very strong blue Iris histrio from a wild seed collection Iris 'Halkis', a reticulata; not sure if it is a hybrid or a pure species selection In the purple range it is mostly irises, such as Iris stenophylla (both subspecies now open) and many of the Reticulata section, and of course Crocus species. Gastil also mentioned Dichelostemma capitatum, a western American native that I wish were better known; it has umbels of light purple flowers with a strong purple base on dark stems, making a group of plants in flower (they are the earliest of the Themidaceae) a striking garden accent, and it's pretty cold-hardy. I don't have a Pantone book but it is a good idea if you have access to one, to compare flower colors with it. There is also an older set of standard color names (not numbers) used by the Dutch bulb industry in particular; you may see them in descriptions of flowers in European and British publications. What one includes as "blue" is rather subjective. I don't like using it where "purple" or "violet" or their many quasi-synonyms seem better. Catalog writers, however, will call almost anything "blue," and Photoshop the illustration to support their falsehood. The snowdrops have raised their heads again now that the snow has melted, as have the early Narcissus, but a few plants that suffered in our December deep freeze have given up in the face of the February iteration. Some of the latter, however, may return next year if their bulbs (tubers, corms) are deep enough. The seedlings, including almost 30 Tulipa species, show little damage despite my eventually inadequate attempts at keeping them from freezing; even some Fritillaria species that were just germinating appear all right. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 06:49 PM 2/11/2014, you wrote: >Here are some blue and purple flowering bulbs now open in my garden. >Several of these were planted a couple months later than normal and >all were delayed in receiving their first fall watering. > >Romulea linarsii - just opened the first sunny day in awhile >Crocus minimus - one last bloom just finishing >Scilla peruviana - just a few early ones starting to open >Ixia rapunculoides - peak bloom in the plunge bed but still in bud >in an adjacent raised bed >Gladiolus caeruleus - past peak bloom, with one stalk still blooming >in the sand plunge >Tristagma uniflorum (syn. Ipheion uniflorum) - just beginning, >started opening a couple weeks ago >Iris reticulata - only one of the five varieties is open >Freesia laxa - at peak bloom now, with the first early flowers >already forming seed pods > >Two non-geophyte annuals in this set of photos I use as reference >blue colors: Baby blue eyes and Cornflower. >The color chart included in each photo is a way of precisely >comparing blue hues. > >http://www.flickr.com/photos/gastils_garden/sets/72157640836559334/ > >There are also just a few Muscari which opened after the day I took >those photos. >The Dichelostemma capitatum are in bud. >And a Moraea polystachya bud was tight this morning but I expect >tomorrow it will open. > >- Gastil >Santa Barbara, California From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: premature blooms Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 14:23:10 -0500 It was 2 deg F this morning & still many inches of snow on the ground here. You folks talking about blooms in February are being so mean !!!! Now I understand why bears hibernate. They don't like getting email about how warm & beautiful it is in other parts of the world. Grumpily, Dennis in Ohio From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FBCC9B.4070001@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 11:33:47 -0800 Dear All: I have partially updated the web site, and orders can be placed now. It isn't quite complete, so there might be future changes, but I am getting so many "when will the web site be updated" e-mails, I decided to go ahead and post it now. Complete sections are: Hippeastrum, Oxalis, Erythronium, Brodiaea, Hymenocallis and a few others. If you want to know if I have something, you can always ask. Most pages will not be changed. Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account (info@telosrarebulbs; admin@telosrarebulbs; orders@telosrarebulbs), since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago and I am often unable to access the account. Please use this one or telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net. Thank you!! Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392236187.51122.YahooMailNeo@web121302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:16:27 -0800 (PST) Diana wrote: "Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account ...since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago..." I'm on the verge of dumping mine, too. What a confusing mess.  Jim McKenney  On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 2:43 PM, Diana Chapman wrote: Dear All: I have partially updated the web site, and orders can be placed now.  It isn't quite complete, so there might be future changes, but I am getting so many "when will the web site be updated" e-mails, I decided to go ahead and post it now.  Complete sections are:  Hippeastrum, Oxalis, Erythronium, Brodiaea, Hymenocallis and a few others.  If you want to know if I have something, you can always ask.  Most pages will not be changed. Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account (info@telosrarebulbs; admin@telosrarebulbs; orders@telosrarebulbs), since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago and I am often unable to access the account.  Please use this one or telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net. Thank you!! Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From tylus_seklos@aol.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0F646A3087D11-18A8-43DA@webmail-d181.sysops.aol.com> From: The Silent Seed Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 15:17:50 -0500 (EST) Can somebody tell me what the Yahoo problems are ? AOL is giving me a headache every 5 minutes, literally - and need to change it - what would be best? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world tylus_seklos@aol.com ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: Jim McKenney To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Wed, Feb 12, 2014 3:16 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Telos Rare Bulbs Diana wrote: "Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account ...since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago..." I'm on the verge of dumping mine, too. What a confusing mess. Jim McKenney On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 2:43 PM, Diana Chapman wrote: Dear All: I have partially updated the web site, and orders can be placed now. It isn't quite complete, so there might be future changes, but I am getting so many "when will the web site be updated" e-mails, I decided to go ahead and post it now. Complete sections are: Hippeastrum, Oxalis, Erythronium, Brodiaea, Hymenocallis and a few others. If you want to know if I have something, you can always ask. Most pages will not be changed. Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account (info@telosrarebulbs; admin@telosrarebulbs; orders@telosrarebulbs), since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago and I am often unable to access the account. Please use this one or telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net. Thank you!! Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From michaelcmace@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <007801cf2830$1b3568a0$51a039e0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: premature blooms Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:22:05 -0800 Dennis wrote: > You folks talking about blooms in February are being so mean Sorry about that. I know you were partly joking, but for what it's worth, the thing to understand is that winter in mediterranean California is like summer for you. This is our time when plants grow naturally and you can garden. If you want revenge, this summer you should send the list a photo of you sitting in on your vividly green lawn, surrounded by summer flowers, while a sprinkler showers you with crystal droplets of water. At that time most of us in California will have dead lawns, be taking legally-mandated two-minute showers, and drinking water recycled from I-don't-want-to-think-about-it. Mike San Jose, CA From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FBDF4A.1000702@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 12:53:30 -0800 I can't access it most of the time, getting repeated error messages. Diana > Can somebody tell me what the Yahoo problems are ? > > > AOL is giving me a headache every 5 minutes, literally - and need to change it - what would be best? > > > > > > > > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Thesilentseed.com, rare and unusual plants from around the world > > > tylus_seklos@aol.com > > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim McKenney > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Wed, Feb 12, 2014 3:16 pm > Subject: Re: [pbs] Telos Rare Bulbs > > > Diana wrote: "Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account > ...since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago..." > > I'm on the verge of dumping mine, too. What a confusing mess. > > Jim McKenney > > > > On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 2:43 PM, Diana Chapman > wrote: > > Dear All: > > I have partially updated the web site, and orders can be placed now. > It isn't quite complete, so there might be future changes, but I am > getting so many "when will the web site be updated" e-mails, I decided > to go ahead and post it now. Complete sections are: Hippeastrum, > Oxalis, Erythronium, Brodiaea, Hymenocallis and a few others. If you > want to know if I have something, you can always ask. Most pages will > not be changed. > > Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail account > (info@telosrarebulbs; admin@telosrarebulbs; orders@telosrarebulbs), > since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months ago > and I am often unable to access the account. Please use this one or > telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net. > > Thank you!! > > Diana > Telos Rare Bulbs > www.telosrarebulbs.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:51:38 +0000 And I !!!! the format keeps changing, they keep interrupting with windows wanting to modify my browser. The in-box priorities are unfathomable....... Peter (UK) On 12 February 2014 20:16, Jim McKenney wrote: > Diana wrote: "Please, also, note that I no longer use my Yahoo e-mail > account > ...since it turned into a nightmare when they changed it some months > ago..." > > I'm on the verge of dumping mine, too. What a confusing mess. > > Jim McKenney > > > From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 16:17:22 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 23:24:09 +0000 I believe that Iris reticulata Halkis is a species collection. I have heard the collection attributed to Norman Stevens. From Halkis Dag in Turkey. It is quite different from the north eastern Iris reticulata and hyrcana. Few Tulips mind freezing, I have seen germinating seeds of hardy Iris, Tulip, Frits, Hyacinths....frozen solid with no harm, though freeze thaw cycles, especially after top growth has started, may damage the bulbs. http://www.augisbulbs.com/catalog.php?c=74 Incidentally, I can highly recommend Augis bulbs Peter (UK) On 12 February 2014 19:13, Jane McGary wrote: > Iris 'Halkis', a reticulata; not sure if it is a hybrid or a pure > species selection > . The seedlings, including > almost 30 Tulipa species, show little damage despite my eventually > inadequate attempts at keeping them from freezing; even some > Fritillaria species that were just germinating appear all right. > > From leo@possi.org Wed, 12 Feb 2014 18:17:39 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 17:24:34 -0800 (PST) Jim McKenney wrote > ...in his 1629 Paradisus, John Parkinson.... From what I've read, the very earliest gardens known, in what is now called the Middle East, were walled enclosures with water features. They were known by a name that today has morphed into "paradise." Gardens of this design are common in Roman and Arabic architecture, as can be seen in ancient buildings in Spain and Pompeii, and a modern recreation of a Pompeiian villa at the old Getty museum in Malibu, California. I would think Parkinson's title refers to gardens in general, and might be translated simply as _The Garden_. Saffron was no doubt grown in or near such gardens. Thus we have both bulbous and blue content to this message. Gastil, if you have trouble with Colchicum, you can probably grow saffron without too much trouble in well-drained soil. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 18:17:39 -0800 Message-Id: <3B526D37-5649-45C4-9251-F20436DD51F6@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Climate-appropriate choices - was 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 17:55:50 -0800 Leo writes: "if you have trouble with Colchicum, you can probably grow saffron without too much trouble in well-drained soil." Yes saffron crocus grows well here. At least two other Crocus also grow well here, C. goulimyi and C. minimus. All those beautiful blue bulbs Jane mentions, I am tempted to try them but I expect some would only bloom the first year and then not return for lack of a cold winter or copious rainfall. There are so many blue-flowering bulbs from climates similar to here that I want to first give space to those, the climate-appropriate choices. Or, I wish I were that wise. As Dell knows, I do try to grow seeds from much colder, wetter climes in hopes that the genetic variation will include some survivors. - Gastil Santa Barbara, California 34.5 N latitude, 91 ft elevation, approximately zone 9b or 10a From brad@alpinepfl.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 19:17:23 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cf2867$7605ae20$62110a60$@alpinepfl.com> From: "Brad King" Subject: Hymenocallis Pygmaea Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 21:58:23 -0500 Thanks Leo. Am I on the right track by keeping this Hymenocallis as wet as I am? Brad asked Late last spring I acquired an Hymenocallis Pygmaea? seedling. I planted it in a clay pot and it spent the summer in the corner of my Koi pond.... In the fall it was moved to an east facing window with the pot in another pot of water at the same level. It seems to be doing OK. Albeit, I feel it is slow. While I haven't grown this plant, other Hymenocallis grow during warm weather, and do best in mostly full sun. I wouldn't expect much from your pygmy during the winter. Next summer keep it as warm as possible in Canada and give it a lot of sun. You will also see that overpotting Hymenocallis is a very good idea. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 12 Feb 2014 20:17:23 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Colchicum for the south, was Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 19:14:39 -0800 Gastil wrote >Well the climate envy goes both ways. :) Those Colchicum autumnale I >received from you via the PBS BX 321 in August 2012 just have not >thrived at all in my garden, likely because it is so much drier and >warmer here. That is probably the Colchicum species that extends farthest north. There are many (who knows how many? Not until Dr. Persson tells us) species from warmer climates that would thrive in Santa Barbara, California. For instance, Gastil could grow Colchicum variegatum, the beautiful tessellated species that is one parent of the hardier C. x agrippinum. Many of the fall-blooming small Colchicum species are from warm places such as Anatolia and the Peloponnese (some photos appear in the wiki). There is a cold-hardy small species that flowers now: Colchicum hungaricum. I have both pink and white color forms of the species and two select forms, 'Valentine' (large pink) and 'Velebit Star' (small, floriferous white). The latter is in full bloom now and 'Valentine' is just showing color in its buds, not quite in time for Valentine's Day but it has a good excuse, having been frozen solid all last week.I suspect this would survive in colder areas than the Pacific Northwest and Holland given snow cover in the worst part of winter, and would then flower later. I bought these from European vendors and grew the unnamed forms from seed. Growing colchicums from seed is a gamble and it's always interesting to see several species, sown in different years perhaps, germinate within a single week in late winter. The smaller ones can flower in their fourth year from germination, or rarely in the third year. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA' From russell@odysseybulbs.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 20:17:23 -0800 Message-Id: <20140213040031.8DB3CE8A85@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Russell Stafford Subject: Colchicum for the south, was Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:52:57 -0500 Many colchicums should do well in coastal California; numerous species are native to the Mediterranean, including (in addition to the ones Jane mentioned) C. bivonae, C. boissieri, C. parlatoris, C. macrophyllum, and on and on. The most satisfactory winter-/spring-blooming colchicum here has been C. szovitsii and its cultivars such as 'Tivi' and 'Vardaovit'. Reliably perennial, with relatively large and substantial flowers that are usually effective for several weeks from March into April. Russell in Lancaster, Massachusetts -- zone 6a -- and bracing for yet another "significant winter storm" Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From plicht@berkeley.edu Wed, 12 Feb 2014 21:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Paul LICHT Subject: Colchicum for the south, was Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2014 20:43:36 -0800 Several accessions of Colchicum autumnale from Spain has been growing in the UC Botanical Garden in Berkeley collection for about 25 yrs. An accession of C. lusitanicum from Portugal was planted in 2006 (I'm not sure of its current status). Paul -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Russell Stafford wrote: > Many colchicums should do well in coastal California; numerous > species are native to the Mediterranean, including (in addition to > the ones Jane mentioned) C. bivonae, C. boissieri, C. parlatoris, C. > macrophyllum, and on and on. > > The most satisfactory winter-/spring-blooming colchicum here has been > C. szovitsii and its cultivars such as 'Tivi' and > 'Vardaovit'. Reliably perennial, with relatively large and > substantial flowers that are usually effective for several weeks from > March into April. > > Russell in Lancaster, Massachusetts -- zone 6a -- and bracing for yet > another "significant winter storm" > > > Russell Stafford > Odyssey Bulbs > PO Box 382 > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > 508-335-8106 > www.odysseybulbs.com > www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs > > > --- > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > http://www.avast.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Wed, 12 Feb 2014 22:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: Colchicum for the south, was Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 16:51:00 +1100 Hi all I can't vouch for the veracity for this statement but I'll quote it anyway. It comes from Richmond E Harrison's "Handbook of Bulbs and Perennials for the Southern Hemisphere" [3rd rev. ed., 1971, page 69] "C. autumnale and its various forms will naturalise readily in light pasture where the flowers are most picturesque. In parts of Samoa, it can be seen growing wild by the thousands in open areas, which serves to show that this species at least is quite at home in a warm climate" Peter in Sydney where rain is promised but I won't hold my breath -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Paul LICHT Sent: Thursday, 13 February 2014 3:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Colchicum for the south,was Blue bulbs in bloom mid February Several accessions of Colchicum autumnale from Spain has been growing in the UC Botanical Garden in Berkeley collection for about 25 yrs. An accession of C. lusitanicum from Portugal was planted in 2006 (I'm not sure of its current status). Paul -- Paul Licht, Director University of California Botanical Garden 200 Centennial Drive Berkeley, CA 94720 (510)-643-8999http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Russell Stafford wrote: > Many colchicums should do well in coastal California; numerous > species are native to the Mediterranean, including (in addition to > the ones Jane mentioned) C. bivonae, C. boissieri, C. parlatoris, C. > macrophyllum, and on and on. > > The most satisfactory winter-/spring-blooming colchicum here has been > C. szovitsii and its cultivars such as 'Tivi' and > 'Vardaovit'. Reliably perennial, with relatively large and > substantial flowers that are usually effective for several weeks from > March into April. > > Russell in Lancaster, Massachusetts -- zone 6a -- and bracing for yet > another "significant winter storm" > > > Russell Stafford > Odyssey Bulbs > PO Box 382 > South Lancaster, MA 01561 > 508-335-8106 > www.odysseybulbs.com > www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs > > > --- > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > http://www.avast.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Looking for an email address to contact Brian Mathew Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 09:15:34 +0000 I can forward an email if you wish Peter (UK) On 12 February 2014 18:16, Luc G. Bulot wrote: > Hi all, > > I am in need to contact Brian Mathew by email... > I could not find any on the Kew Royal Botanical Gardens website... > > Can anyone provide me with a valid contact ? > If more appropriate please get in touch privately with me on my > professionnal addres : bulot@cerege.fr > > Thanks in advance, > Best regards, > > Dr. Luc G. Bulot, UMR CNRS 7630 Cerege, Aix-Marseille University, France > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 07:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1392302351.88802.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: What's a dooryard? Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 06:39:11 -0800 (PST) The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, 1931, a collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing and illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the upscale end of the spectrum. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of snow buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen wrote: The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > dooryard > > The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, > typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back > yard" > and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a > necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice > common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other > out-buildings; > dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to farming. > A > household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. > > "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." > > Bill Richardosn > Ixiaking > Australia From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 09:17:34 -0800 Message-Id: <1392308590.79920.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 08:23:10 -0800 (PST) Leo wrote:"I would think Parkinson's title refers to gardens in general, and might be translated simply as _The Garden_." I won't disagree with you, Leo, but to translate Parkinson's title as "The Garden" is to deny the multilayered meaning of the actual title. The title of the book is "Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris". The text of the book is in English, not, as the title might suggest, in Latin. The title is an elaborate pun on the author's name, a pun which for its effectiveness depends on translating "paradisus" as "park". The only nominative noun in the title is the word "Paradisus"; that's why the usual abbreviation of the title is "Paradisus" rather than "Paradisi". "Paradisi" is to be construed as a genitive singular noun, and the phrase "paradisi in sole" is thus understood to mean "Parkinson's". That gives the translation "Parkinson's Earthly Paradise";  and, as befits the man who was apothecary to James I and Royal Botanist to Charles I,  "paradise" indicated a park, hardly the little scrap of ground most of us know as a garden. Yet the actual plans for planting included in the Paradisus are those for little knot gardens. The paradise garden tradition is still strong in England: where else on earth is there the combination of tradition, climate and cultural aspiration to support such a thing? Edward Hyams' The English Garden (Abrams, 1966) was this American reader's introduction to this tradition. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA,  USDA zone 7, where the snowfall has stopped and the shoveling will soon begin - but first, I'll bake some chocolate chip cookies to have as a reward when I finish the shoveling (16" of snow on the table on the deck). On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 8:25 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: Jim McKenney wrote > ...in his 1629 Paradisus, John Parkinson.... From what I've read, the very earliest gardens known, in what is now called the Middle East, were walled enclosures with water features. They were known by a name that today has morphed into "paradise." Gardens of this design are common in Roman and Arabic architecture, as can be seen in ancient buildings in Spain and Pompeii, and a modern recreation of a Pompeiian villa at the old Getty museum in Malibu, California. I would think Parkinson's title refers to gardens in general, and might be translated simply as _The Garden_. Saffron was no doubt grown in or near such gardens. Thus we have both bulbous and blue content to this message. Gastil, if you have trouble with Colchicum, you can probably grow saffron without too much trouble in well-drained soil. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 11:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 11:24:50 -0500 Test: Am I now able to post on the PBS with this new email ? For those with GMAIL, how can I change the subject line ? On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 11:23 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Leo wrote:"I would think Parkinson's title refers to gardens in general, > and might be translated simply as > _The Garden_." > > I won't disagree with you, Leo, but to translate Parkinson's title as "The > Garden" is to deny the multilayered meaning of the actual title. The title > of the book is "Paradisi in Sole Paradisus Terrestris". The text of the > book is in English, not, as the title might suggest, in Latin. The title is > an elaborate pun on the author's name, a pun which for its effectiveness > depends on translating "paradisus" as "park". The only nominative noun in > the title is the word "Paradisus"; that's why the usual abbreviation of the > title is "Paradisus" rather than "Paradisi". "Paradisi" is to be construed > as a genitive singular noun, and the phrase "paradisi in sole" is thus > understood to mean "Parkinson's". That gives the translation "Parkinson's > Earthly Paradise"; and, as befits the man who was apothecary to James > I and Royal Botanist to Charles I, "paradise" indicated a park, hardly > the little scrap of ground most of us know as a garden. Yet the actual plans > for planting included in the Paradisus are those for little knot gardens. > > The paradise garden tradition is still strong in England: where else on > earth is there the combination of tradition, climate and cultural > aspiration to support such a thing? Edward Hyams' The English Garden > (Abrams, 1966) was this American reader's introduction to this tradition. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the snowfall has > stopped and the shoveling will soon begin - but first, I'll bake some > chocolate chip cookies to have as a reward when I finish the shoveling (16" > of snow on the table on the deck). > > > > > > On Wednesday, February 12, 2014 8:25 PM, Leo A. Martin > wrote: > > Jim McKenney wrote > > > ...in his 1629 Paradisus, John Parkinson.... > > >From what I've read, the very earliest gardens known, in what is now > called the Middle > East, were walled enclosures with water features. They were known by a > name that today > has morphed into "paradise." Gardens of this design are common in Roman > and Arabic > architecture, as can be seen in ancient buildings in Spain and Pompeii, > and a modern > recreation of a Pompeiian villa at the old Getty museum in Malibu, > California. I would > think Parkinson's title refers to gardens in general, and might be > translated simply as > _The Garden_. > > Saffron was no doubt grown in or near such gardens. Thus we have both > bulbous and blue > content to this message. Gastil, if you have trouble with Colchicum, you > can probably > grow saffron without too much trouble in well-drained soil. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From aley_wd@me.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 10:17:42 -0800 Message-Id: <5DEC8D41-A70F-4C87-8309-4F318C72F70B@me.com> From: William Aley Subject: What' about the first garden? Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 11:34:23 -0500 Speaking of garden origins, Interesting investigation by Dr. Francrsca Stavrakopoulu about the origins of the Garden of Eden. BBC. Bible's Buried Secrets 3. The Real Garden of Eden 05/2012 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGhXjExkcKs Across the beltway from Jim and in Snow as well William Aley Silver Spring, Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, 1931, a collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing and illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the upscale end of the spectrum. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of snow buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. > > > > On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen wrote: > > The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. > > --Lee Poulsen > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > >> dooryard >> >> The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, >> typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back >> yard" >> and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a >> necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice >> common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other >> out-buildings; >> dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to farming. >> A >> household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. >> >> "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." >> >> Bill Richardosn >> Ixiaking >> Australia > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: What' about the first garden? Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 12:40:41 -0500 Could somebody please confirm that my messages are coming through? I am not getting them back to myself. Also, for any GMAIL users - how can I change the subject line? Thanks! On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 11:34 AM, William Aley wrote: > Speaking of garden origins, Interesting investigation by Dr. Francrsca > Stavrakopoulu about the origins of the Garden of Eden. > > BBC. Bible's Buried Secrets 3. The Real Garden of Eden > > 05/2012 > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGhXjExkcKs > > > > Across the beltway from Jim > and in Snow as well > > William Aley > Silver Spring, Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, > USDA zone 7 > > On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Jim McKenney > wrote: > > > The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, 1931, a > collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing and > illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the upscale end > of the spectrum. > > > > Jim McKenney > > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of snow > buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. > > > > > > > > On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen > wrote: > > > > The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used > the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended > for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county > agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties > that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties > that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a > > Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > > > >> dooryard > >> > >> The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, > >> typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back > >> yard" > >> and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a > >> necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice > >> common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other > >> out-buildings; > >> dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to > farming. > >> A > >> household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. > >> > >> "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." > >> > >> Bill Richardosn > >> Ixiaking > >> Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From alanidae@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 10:17:42 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Hymenocallis Pygmaea Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 13:13:41 -0500 Hey Brad On one hand, you don't necessarily have to keep it that moist to keep Hymenocallis pygmaea happy but it certainly won't mind it and will thrive like that. They like to stay moist but don't necessarily have to have submersed soils to do well. I find when growing Hymenocallis in this manner that the pelletized slow release fertilizers made for waterlilies and water garden plants are a convenient means to fertilize them. They don't have a huge leaf production but good lighting and warmth are definitely important. I agree with Leo too; this is not a big plant at all but I don't think they like being cramped in small pots and don't bloom as well. Alani Davis Tallahassee, Florida On Wed, Feb 12, 2014 at 9:58 PM, Brad King wrote: > Thanks Leo. Am I on the right track by keeping this Hymenocallis as wet as > I > am? > > Brad asked > > Late last spring I acquired an Hymenocallis Pygmaea? > seedling. I planted it in a clay pot and it spent the > summer in the corner of my Koi pond.... In the fall it > was moved to an east facing window with the pot in > another pot of water at the same level. It seems > to be doing OK. Albeit, I feel it is slow. > > While I haven't grown this plant, other Hymenocallis grow during warm > weather, and do > best in mostly full sun. I wouldn't expect much from your pygmy during the > winter. Next > summer keep it as warm as possible in Canada and give it a lot of sun. You > will also see > that overpotting Hymenocallis is a very good idea. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: off topic, editing subject line in Gmail Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 20:09:21 +0000 To edit the subject when replying in Gmail click on the reply button which is an arrow pointing left at the top right hand corner of the email. The reply page opens up, complete with subject line. At the left of the subject line there is an arrow pointing left "Type of response". Clicking this will give the option to edit the subject. Spell check is to be found via the downward pointing triangle at the bottom right of the email. Peter (UK) On 13 February 2014 16:24, Jude Haverington wrote: > Test: Am I now able to post on the PBS with this new email ? > > For those with GMAIL, how can I change the subject line ? > > From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FD398C.6030505@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What' about the first garden? Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:30:52 +1300 I just got your message Jude. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 14/02/2014 6:40 a.m., Jude Haverington wrote: > Could somebody please confirm that my messages are coming through? I am not > getting them back to myself. > > Also, for any GMAIL users - how can I change the subject line? Thanks! > > > On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 11:34 AM, William Aley wrote: > >> Speaking of garden origins, Interesting investigation by Dr. Francrsca >> Stavrakopoulu about the origins of the Garden of Eden. >> >> BBC. Bible's Buried Secrets 3. The Real Garden of Eden >> >> 05/2012 >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGhXjExkcKs >> >> >> >> Across the beltway from Jim >> and in Snow as well >> >> William Aley >> Silver Spring, Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, >> USDA zone 7 >> >> On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Jim McKenney >> wrote: >> >>> The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, 1931, a >> collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing and >> illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the upscale end >> of the spectrum. >>> Jim McKenney >>> Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of snow >> buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. >>> >>> >>> On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen >> wrote: >>> The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used >> the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended >> for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county >> agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties >> that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties >> that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. >>> --Lee Poulsen >>> Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a >>> Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m >>> >>> >>> On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: >>> >>>> dooryard >>>> >>>> The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, >>>> typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back >>>> yard" >>>> and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a >>>> necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice >>>> common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other >>>> out-buildings; >>>> dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to >> farming. >>>> A >>>> household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. >>>> >>>> "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." >>>> >>>> Bill Richardosn >>>> Ixiaking >>>> Australia >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <52FD3A12.7010401@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: What' about the first garden? Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 10:33:06 +1300 I just got your message Jude. I use gmail but through Thunderbird. When I reply, I just highlight what I don't want and type what I do want. Which doesn't work until I am actually on the reply message. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 14/02/2014 6:40 a.m., Jude Haverington wrote: > Could somebody please confirm that my messages are coming through? I am not > getting them back to myself. > > Also, for any GMAIL users - how can I change the subject line? Thanks! > > > On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 11:34 AM, William Aley wrote: > >> Speaking of garden origins, Interesting investigation by Dr. Francrsca >> Stavrakopoulu about the origins of the Garden of Eden. >> >> BBC. Bible's Buried Secrets 3. The Real Garden of Eden >> >> 05/2012 >> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGhXjExkcKs >> >> >> >> Across the beltway from Jim >> and in Snow as well >> >> William Aley >> Silver Spring, Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, >> USDA zone 7 >> >> On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Jim McKenney >> wrote: >> >>> The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, 1931, a >> collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing and >> illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the upscale end >> of the spectrum. >>> Jim McKenney >>> Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of snow >> buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. >>> >>> >>> On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen >> wrote: >>> The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it used >> the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties recommended >> for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the local county >> agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish some varieties >> that should only be tried around the home as opposed to the main varieties >> that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. >>> --Lee Poulsen >>> Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a >>> Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m >>> >>> >>> On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: >>> >>>> dooryard >>>> >>>> The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used entryway, >>>> typically the driveway area; A logical extension of "barnyard," "back >>>> yard" >>>> and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of a >>>> necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a practice >>>> common to the region, homes were attached to barns and other >>>> out-buildings; >>>> dooryard identifies the exterior area of a home not given over to >> farming. >>>> A >>>> household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. >>>> >>>> "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." >>>> >>>> Bill Richardosn >>>> Ixiaking >>>> Australia >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From nancylg@cox.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <00ee01cf2903$90e59740$b2b0c5c0$@net> From: "Nlg" Subject: What' about the first garden? Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 13:35:50 -0800 You come coming through... -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jude Haverington Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 9:41 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] What' about the first garden? Could somebody please confirm that my messages are coming through? I am not getting them back to myself. Also, for any GMAIL users - how can I change the subject line? Thanks! On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 11:34 AM, William Aley wrote: > Speaking of garden origins, Interesting investigation by Dr. Francrsca > Stavrakopoulu about the origins of the Garden of Eden. > > BBC. Bible's Buried Secrets 3. The Real Garden of Eden > > 05/2012 > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zGhXjExkcKs > > > > Across the beltway from Jim > and in Snow as well > > William Aley > Silver Spring, Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > > On Feb 13, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Jim McKenney > wrote: > > > The Garden Handbook by Mary Rutherford Jay, Harper and Brothers, > > 1931, a > collection of photographs and short essays, has a section discussing > and illustrating dooryard gardens. Most of these are drawn from the > upscale end of the spectrum. > > > > Jim McKenney > > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,where about a foot of > > snow > buried the garden (and my dooryard garden) last night. > > > > > > > > On Sunday, February 9, 2014 2:49 AM, Lee Poulsen > > > wrote: > > > > The usage in which I first encountered the word dooryard and saw it > > used > the most thereafter was in descriptions of fruit tree varieties > recommended for ordinary people to try growing in their yards by the > local county agricultural extension agent. It was used to distinguish > some varieties that should only be tried around the home as opposed to > the main varieties that were recommended for both commercial growers and homeowners. > > > > --Lee Poulsen > > Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude > > 1150 ft/350 m > > > > > > On Feb 8, 2014, at 5:03 PM, Bill Richardson wrote: > > > >> dooryard > >> > >> The exterior area of a home surrounding the most commonly used > >> entryway, typically the driveway area; A logical extension of > >> "barnyard," "back yard" > >> and "front yard," it is likely that this compound word grew out of > >> a necessity to distinguish working areas from living areas. In a > >> practice common to the region, homes were attached to barns and > >> other out-buildings; dooryard identifies the exterior area of a > >> home not given over to > farming. > >> A > >> household word in the County, dooryard is seldom heard elsewhere. > >> > >> "Buddy does a good job of plowin' out th' dooryard." > >> > >> Bill Richardosn > >> Ixiaking > >> Australia > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.932 / Virus Database: 3684.1.1/6585 - Release Date: 02/13/14 02:05:00 No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.932 / Virus Database: 3684.1.1/6585 - Release Date: 02/13/14 02:05:00 From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: GOT IT! Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 16:42:58 -0500 Thanks a bunch! On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 3:09 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > To edit the subject when replying in Gmail click on the reply button which > is an arrow pointing left at the top right hand corner of the email. The > reply page opens up, complete with subject line. At the left of the subject > line there is an arrow pointing left "Type of response". Clicking this will > give the option to edit the subject. Spell check is to be found via the > downward pointing triangle at the bottom right of the email. > Peter (UK) > > > On 13 February 2014 16:24, Jude Haverington > wrote: > > > Test: Am I now able to post on the PBS with this new email ? > > > > For those with GMAIL, how can I change the subject line ? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 22:13:52 +0000 Hi, In message <1392308590.79920.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, Jim McKenney writes >The paradise garden tradition is still strong in England: where else on >earth is there the combination of tradition, climate and cultural >aspiration to support such a thing? From wikipedia: "Traditionally, an Islamic garden is a cool place of rest and reflection, and a reminder of paradise." -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1392332013.52795.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 14:53:33 -0800 (PST) Well, David, wouldn't you agree that although we use the same word, paradise, to describe these traditions, do they really have much in common? The English paradise garden tradition is one which finds expression only in climates with plenty of year round moisture; the typical gardens of Islamic tradition are the expression of a Mediterranean climate. In the Islamic tradition, the importance of water is not simply symbolic (as it is in the English tradition) but also practical. As I understand it, the English paradise garden tradition is characterized by the inclusion of as many different plants as possible, and this is based on the belief that all plants were represented in the Garden of Eden. The suite of plants in an Islamic garden would be much restricted by climate. And the plans I have seen suggest that the plants present were often plants of practical importance such as fruit trees (dates, pomegranates, figs) rather than the sort of plants we think of as being of "botanical interest". Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, with more snow falling on top of the sixteen inches we already have. On Thursday, February 13, 2014 5:15 PM, David Pilling wrote: Hi, In message <1392308590.79920.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, Jim McKenney writes >The paradise garden tradition is still strong in England: where else on >earth is there the combination of tradition, climate and cultural >aspiration to support such a thing? From wikipedia: "Traditionally, an Islamic garden is a cool place of rest and reflection, and a reminder of paradise." -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk   web: http://www.davidpilling.net/ From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <932E73A5-FCC1-4DE2-ACC0-5591BAA778A0@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Climate-appropriate choices - was 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 17:44:48 -0800 Gastil, if you want to try some other really blue flowers that should do well for you, try some of the Chilean ones. Right now I have the really blue Tecophilaea cyanocrocus in bloom and the vastly more vigorous *and* floriferous T. cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii which is a lighter, not quite as striking, blue, but still blue, as well as Tropaeolum azureum. I have the latter from two different sources, grown from seed, one of which has bloomed for me now a third year in a row, and the other bloomed this year for the first time and it is a significantly different and deeper shade of blue than the first one. Quite striking. I'm also hoping to get a second year of blooming from a pot of Zephyra elegans that finally has come back consistently for me. This is one species where it's really easy to get lots and lots of seeds to germinate and grow. But then only a few come back the next year, and until last year, none came back the third year. I've tried this one over and over for years. Anyway, last year, I thought I had a stray pot of Tecophilaea cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii--because it was a fairly similar-looking and -colored flower--but it appeared as a spray of flowers on a single stem (can't remember the technical term) rather than lots of single-stemmed flowers. And the scent! I guess I hadn't read anywhere (or more likely never paid attention) that it smells so wonderful. And you don't have to try to bury your nose in the flower to smell it. --Lee On Feb 12, 2014, at 5:55 PM, Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Leo writes: > "if you have trouble with Colchicum, you can probably > grow saffron without too much trouble in well-drained soil." > > Yes saffron crocus grows well here. > At least two other Crocus also grow well here, C. goulimyi and C. minimus. > > All those beautiful blue bulbs Jane mentions, I am tempted to try them but I expect some would only bloom the first year and then not return for lack of a cold winter or copious rainfall. There are so many blue-flowering bulbs from climates similar to here that I want to first give space to those, the climate-appropriate choices. Or, I wish I were that wise. As Dell knows, I do try to grow seeds from much colder, wetter climes in hopes that the genetic variation will include some survivors. > > - Gastil > Santa Barbara, California > 34.5 N latitude, 91 ft elevation, approximately zone 9b or 10a > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Climate-appropriate choices Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 18:32:37 -0800 In addition to Tecophilaea cyanocrocus mentioned by Lee Poulsen ("var. leichtlinii" is just a variable color form that is probably closer to the typical wild form than the deeper blue ones), a blue Chilean flower is Pasithea caerulea, which has a stoloniferous rhizome and is very deep blue in flower. It seems to do well in coastal California but doesn't survive the cold here in Oregon. Zephyra elegans varies from almost white to "powder blue" including some with darker blue margins. It probably will not tolerate much if any frost. The only Tropaeolum azureum I have seen in the wild were the very dark, almost violet ones; I'm waiting to see what color flowers my seedlings will produce. Lee, perhaps you could post a photo of your fragrant mystery flower on the Mystery Bulbs section of the wiki? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 05:44 PM 2/13/2014, Lee wrote: >Gastil, if you want to try some other really blue flowers that >should do well for you, try some of the Chilean ones. Right now I >have the really blue Tecophilaea cyanocrocus in bloom and the vastly >more vigorous *and* floriferous T. cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii >which is a lighter, not quite as striking, blue, but still blue, as >well as Tropaeolum azureum. I have the latter from two different >sources, grown from seed, one of which has bloomed for me now a >third year in a row, and the other bloomed this year for the first >time and it is a significantly different and deeper shade of blue >than the first one. Quite striking. > >I'm also hoping to get a second year of blooming from a pot of >Zephyra elegans that finally has come back consistently for me. This >is one species where it's really easy to get lots and lots of seeds >to germinate and grow. But then only a few come back the next year, >and until last year, none came back the third year. I've tried this >one over and over for years. Anyway, last year, I thought I had a >stray pot of Tecophilaea cyanocrocus var. leichtlinii--because it >was a fairly similar-looking and -colored flower--but it appeared as >a spray of flowers on a single stem (can't remember the technical >term) rather than lots of single-stemmed flowers. And the scent! I >guess I hadn't read anywhere (or more likely never paid attention) >that it smells so wonderful. And you don't have to try to bury your >nose in the flower to smell it. From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Thu, 13 Feb 2014 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <06940404-E328-4008-BA50-4BB813C930C0@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Climate-appropriate choices Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 20:01:43 -0800 Lee, Good point about the Chilean blues. I have some of these but did not mention them because they were not blooming. I have some Tecophilaea cyanocrocus and the 'violacea' of that, both purchased as bulbs and not as vigorous returning their third year. I may have them in too warm a spot or not have watered them enough or delayed their re-planting too long. One of the 'violacea' is open. Tropaeolum azureum I tried from seed but none sprouted. I will try again because the Tropaeolum hookerianum seedlings are thriving, climbing up their twigs eagerly, though their parent tuber has not made an appearance again this year. I have not tried Zephyra elegans. It looks lovely in the wiki photos so this one goes on my wish list. Let us know if you discover what conditions led to the successful pot. And Jane, also good suggestions. Good to know of the lack of frost tolerance of Z. elegans, as I do get significant frost but have a couple beds with frames to lay a blanket over. Frost was not mentioned on the wiki page but makes sense given the coastal habitat. I have second-year seedlings of some Pasithea caerulea (which made buds last year but a bug ate them). They look big enough again to bloom this year. My seeds were from Nhu, via the PBS BX. I did not recognize a rhizome. It did grow the peanut-like nodules on its roots like the photo on the wiki. (My concept of rhizome may be limited.) I dug it up last summer just to look at it, then replanted it in the same spot. I expect it would have preferred to be left undisturbed but I am too curious. I have some Leucocoryne vittata seedlings which look promising. Other than a few species which appeared in the BX, I have not tried many Chilean seeds yet. - Gastil From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 13 Feb 2014 23:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <71E68EF4-BF17-456E-8083-7D9CFD696381@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: delayed seed germination Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 22:16:50 -0800 The subject of delayed germination was mentioned a few days ago, so I am offering a couple of examples from my yard (which includes the driveway, lawn, garden beds, shrub areas, gravel walkways, firewood storage area, potting shed, and clothes drying area). A few years ago I bought Cyclamen graecum seeds from the PBS seed exchange. They were potted out, nothing happened for 3 years, so I tossed the pot contents one summer day when I was cleaning up the seed pot area 2 years ago. This year, 3 seedling leaves appeared where the pot was tossed, making this five years from start to appearance of new seedlings. Not sure they'll survive the winter, however, as we've had two rounds of snow and temperatures into the mid to low 20s (F) so far. If the leaves still look good after the next few storms blow through, I will pot up these seedlings and put them somewhere a bit more protected. At least, I think these are Cyc. graecum. The leaves are a very different shape from the Cyc. hederifolium and coum seedlings I have elsewhere in the yard, but ants drag seeds of the former species all over. Then, four years ago, a friend gave me some old Erythronium hendersonii seeds. I sent most of the seed on to the PBS seed exchange, put a few in a large pot, and waited. Nothing. Last year, one seedling leaf appeared. I scrape the moss off each year, add fresh gravel, by the way. This week I was checking the pot and saw dozens of tiny leaves emerging all over the surface. I do not recall how many seeds I planted. But it is clear that it took them a few years to decide to germinate, perhaps indicating that the seeds were fairly old. Gardening, and growing bulbs from seed, seems to be all about patience. Cheers Kathleen Sayce PNW coast, where it's blowing, and about to start raining again From leo@possi.org Thu, 13 Feb 2014 23:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Paradisi in sole paradisus Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 22:17:08 -0800 (PST) It is in the University of California library https://archive.org/details/paradisiinsolepa00parkrich From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Thu, 13 Feb 2014 23:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392359409.75789.YahooMailNeo@web185305.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: delayed seed germination Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 22:30:09 -0800 (PST) I've tried growing Androcymbium from seed the last three or four years. Each year, I buy a few more lots, sow them, and hope. First three years, nothing happened. This year, finally, I've had some germination....from those sown the first year. I've also sown many different Calochortus seeds for the last five or six years. Last year, germination was terrible. This year, germination has been extraordinary. Was it the potting mix with more coir to retain water longer that made the difference? Or the warm dry winter weather we've had here in southern California? Something else? By the way, the Triteleia germination has been terrible. ________________________________ From: Kathleen Sayce To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 10:16 PM Subject: [pbs] delayed seed germination The subject of delayed germination was mentioned a few days ago, so I am offering a couple of examples from my yard (which includes the driveway, lawn, garden beds, shrub areas, gravel walkways, firewood storage area, potting shed, and clothes drying area). A few years ago I bought Cyclamen graecum seeds from the PBS seed exchange. They were potted out, nothing happened for 3 years, so I tossed the pot contents one summer day when I was cleaning up the seed pot area 2 years ago. This year, 3 seedling leaves appeared where the pot was tossed, making this five years from start to appearance of new seedlings. Not sure they'll survive the winter, however, as we've had two rounds of snow and temperatures into the mid to low 20s (F) so far. If the leaves still look good after the next few storms blow through, I will pot up these seedlings and put them somewhere a bit more protected. At least, I think these are Cyc. graecum. The leaves are a very different shape from the Cyc. hederifolium and coum seedlings I have elsewhere in the yard, but ants drag seeds of the former species all over. Then, four years ago, a friend gave me some old Erythronium hendersonii seeds. I sent most of the seed on to the PBS seed exchange, put a few in a large pot, and waited. Nothing. Last year, one seedling leaf appeared. I scrape the moss off each year, add fresh gravel, by the way. This week I was checking the pot and saw dozens of tiny leaves emerging all over the surface. I do not recall how many seeds I planted. But it is clear that it took them a few years to decide to germinate, perhaps indicating that the seeds were fairly old. Gardening, and growing bulbs from seed, seems to be all about patience. Cheers Kathleen Sayce PNW coast, where it's blowing, and about to start raining again From leo@possi.org Thu, 13 Feb 2014 23:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Hymenocallis Pygmaea Date: Thu, 13 Feb 2014 22:30:21 -0800 (PST) Brad asked > Am I on the right track by keeping this Hymenocallis [wet]...? Many Hymenocallis are fully aquatic or wet-marginal plants. I couldn't get any of them to stay alive, let alone bloom/blow/flower/effloresce/flourish/emit cuticular wax in Phoenix until I stood them in water during the summer. This may be related to our very low humidity, however. I would guess most of eastern Canada has higher summer humidity than the Sonoran Desert. I know people in the southeastern USA bloom these plants in containers that are not sitting in water. They weren't so picky during winters past, when they were fine kept moist. Since discovering the pond trick I have left to stand in the pond all winter. My pond has only frozen once, during the arctic blast of December 1990. This winter I have had no frost at all. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 14 Feb 2014 00:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <311569608.3837.1392365013250.JavaMail.www@wwinf1p16> From: Mark BROWN Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 09:03:33 +0100 (CET) Scent is an integral part of the earthly paradise delights so plants like jasmine Lilium candidum, Narcissus tazeta and damask roses and even Paeonia lactiflora, oranges and others via the silk road would be an important part of the flora. They give refreshment from the crushing heat too. Smelling a damask rose is quite an experience on a crushingly hot day. The scent of grape-vine blossom is mentioned quite often in poetry associated with these gardens and I seem to remember in the bible even? Mark > Message du 13/02/14 23:53 > De : "Jim McKenney"   > Objet : Re: [pbs] 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson   " The suite of plants in an Islamic garden would be much restricted by climate. And the plans I have seen suggest that the plants present were often plants of practical importance such as fruit trees (dates, pomegranates, figs) rather than the sort of plants we think of as being of "botanical interest". > > Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 14 Feb 2014 05:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 12:46:03 +0000 Hi, In message <1392332013.52795.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, Jim McKenney writes >Well, David, wouldn't you agree that although we use the same word, >paradise, to describe these traditions, do they really have much in >common? More the concept. I'm not in a position to doubt the English garden is better than the rest. I found this quote on the PBS wiki: "He that has two cakes of bread, let him sell one of them for some flowers of the Narcissus, for bread is food for the body, but Narcissus is food of the soul." --The prophet Muhammad Lilies seem popular in Iran. Does history record if the paradise was for the people doing the weeding/mowing/watering or the ones hanging about contemplating. I think other cultures have the concept of exceptional gardens where the gods live. Maybe that shades into gardeners imagining how things could be. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From butterflyamaryllis@yahoo.com Fri, 14 Feb 2014 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392385788.35694.YahooMailBasic@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: James Frelichowski Subject: delayed seed germination Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 05:49:48 -0800 (PST) I work with Gossypium (cotton) and when i recycle soil from failed germinations, i also get seedlings appearing months later. Even various herbs are emerging in pots i re-used. amazing. -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 2/14/14, Kathleen Sayce wrote: Subject: [pbs] delayed seed germination To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" Date: Friday, February 14, 2014, 12:16 AM The subject of delayed germination was mentioned a few days ago, so I am offering a couple of examples from my yard (which includes the driveway, lawn, garden beds, shrub areas, gravel walkways, firewood storage area, potting shed, and clothes drying area). A few years ago I bought Cyclamen graecum seeds from the PBS seed exchange. They were potted out, nothing happened for 3 years, so I tossed the pot contents one summer day when I was cleaning up the seed pot area 2 years ago. This year, 3 seedling leaves appeared where the pot was tossed, making this five years from start to appearance of new seedlings. Not sure they'll survive the winter, however, as we've had two rounds of snow and temperatures into the mid to low 20s (F) so far. If the leaves still look good after the next few storms blow through, I will pot up these seedlings and put them somewhere a bit more protected. At least, I think these are Cyc. graecum. The leaves are a very different shape from the Cyc. hederifolium and coum seedlings I have elsewhere in the yard, but ants drag seeds of the former species all over. Then, four years ago, a friend gave me some old Erythronium hendersonii seeds. I sent most of the seed on to the PBS seed exchange, put a few in a large pot, and waited. Nothing. Last year, one seedling leaf appeared. I scrape the moss off each year, add fresh gravel, by the way. This week I was checking the pot and saw dozens of tiny leaves emerging all over the surface. I do not recall how many seeds I planted. But it is clear that it took them a few years to decide to germinate, perhaps indicating that the seeds were fairly old. Gardening, and growing bulbs from seed, seems to be all about patience. Cheers Kathleen Sayce PNW coast, where it's blowing, and about to start raining again _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From telosrarebulbs@suddenlink.net Fri, 14 Feb 2014 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <52FE2C53.2000304@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Pollen Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 06:46:43 -0800 Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available? I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year. I am sure I could offer something nice in return. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 14 Feb 2014 08:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: 1629 Paradisus of John Parkinson Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 15:18:07 +0000 The concept of paradise is not Islamic but refer to ancient Persia and possibly to the Assyrian/Median period (say 900 years BC) and describes the enclosures of wild land used as hunting preserves. Therefore they have nothing to do with scorching climates and desert plants. In the tradition Eve offered Adam an apple not a date. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 14 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: delayed seed germination Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 16:17:27 -0800 John WIckham wrote >I've also sown many different Calochortus seeds for the last five or >six years. Last year, germination was terrible. This year, >germination has been extraordinary. Was it the potting mix with more >coir to retain water longer that made the difference? Or the warm >dry winter weather we've had here in southern California? Something >else? By the way, the Triteleia germination has been terrible. Most of the southern and coastal Californian species of Calochortus seem to do best when the seeds are sown fairly fresh. I sent a lot to the BX last fall and they would have germinated quickly and thickly. Unfortunately, our sudden December record freeze killed a lot of my Calochortus seedlings, which I had not thought necessary to remove from my shed to a heated area; I hope I'll get plenty more seed next summer. In contrast, species from colder, more inland regions seem to germinate less readily and sometimes in the second spring from sowing. I don't know why Triteleia seeds would not germinate for John, unless he was just depending on natural rainfall for moisture. Ordinarily these are very easy from seed. It is unusual to see Fritillaria seeds germinating the second year from sowing but I see a few starting up now -- I think they are all high alpines or east Asian species. It's striking how quickly after very cold temperatures seedlings can pop up. Yesterday Rhodophiala rhodolirion, sown a month ago, came up in a pot that was probably frozen a week ago, despite the presence of a heater. It is a high alpine species. I'm also seeing some Penstemon species from seed sown about a year ago, out of the NARGS leftover distributions. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From paige@hillkeep.ca Fri, 14 Feb 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Paige Woodward Subject: Erythronium 'Sundisc' parents Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2014 21:59:54 -0800 One parent of the robust Erythronium hybrid 'Sundisc' is E. tuolumnense. I am willing to take this for granted. Is the rest of its ancestry registered, or plausibly published, somewhere? I've been wandering online through Sargassos of recopied blither. All may be plain to those of you who know about registering cultivated plants. I am out in the weeds of species. Given the fox-colored throat markings of 'Sundisc', my chief suspects for the other parent are two species with similar throat markings: E. oregonum and E. californicum, both white-flowered. All three species are broadly within wild range of each other, given an Olympics-caliber flying pollinator; but perhaps this is a garden cross. 'Sundisc' is so very robust and vigorous that it is tempting to imagine the almost as vigorous selection E. californicum 'White Beauty' as the other parent. On the other hand, E. oregonum sometimes has tepals with backs as green as those of 'Sundisc'. But there is no saying (is there?) that only two species are involved. Please speak up if you know the story of 'Sundisc'. Paige Woodward paige@hillkeep.ca From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Sat, 15 Feb 2014 06:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C6133FDB6C1@S1P5DAG5B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Pollen Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 13:42:12 +0000 Hi Diana, My C. falcatus should be breaking dormancy very shortly. As soon as it does. I'll be happy to harvest the pollen and send it to you. Warm Regards, Fred ...From very snow weary Cambridge MA and more on the way!!!!! -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diana Chapman Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 9:47 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Pollen Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available? I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year. I am sure I could offer something nice in return. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From arnold140@verizon.net Sat, 15 Feb 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <33263814.828760.1392477969232.JavaMail.root@vznit170170> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: renweals Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 09:26:09 -0600 (CST) JEM at zip code 97020 JRN at zip code 97229 I have received your renewal checks please disregard the reminder post card. Arnold Treasurer PBS From rgb2@cornell.edu Sat, 15 Feb 2014 12:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <8C347B66-9E0C-4896-B4AD-55799E7AAFB7@cornell.edu> From: Robin Graham Bell Subject: renweals Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 19:07:00 +0000 Hi Arnold, thank you for the reminder.......I have been dilatory, but I suspect you meant these mags to go to them rather than me? Robin Bell. Sent from my iPad On Feb 15, 2014, at 10:27 AM, "arnold140@verizon.net" wrote: > JEM at zip code 97020 > JRN at zip code 97229 > > I have received your renewal checks please disregard the reminder post card. > > Arnold > Treasurer PBS > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Sat, 15 Feb 2014 12:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <52FFC0F4.1070003@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: renweals Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 08:33:08 +1300 They were sent to all. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 16/02/2014 8:07 a.m., Robin Graham Bell wrote: > Hi Arnold, thank you for the reminder.......I have been dilatory, but I suspect you meant these mags to go to them rather than me? > Robin Bell. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Feb 15, 2014, at 10:27 AM, "arnold140@verizon.net" wrote: > >> JEM at zip code 97020 >> JRN at zip code 97229 >> >> I have received your renewal checks please disregard the reminder post card. >> >> Arnold >> Treasurer PBS >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tony.joe@comcast.net Sat, 15 Feb 2014 15:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1951948059.6400.1392504306368.JavaMail.root@sz0156a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> From: tony.joe@comcast.net Subject: Cyrtanthus Help in Seattle Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 22:45:06 +0000 (UTC) Hi all, I have grown a bulb sold to me as Cyrtanthus montanus for several years.  I'm growing it in a pot in my cool greenhouse.  The bulb has grown well and increased in size, but has never bloomed.  I'm keeping it dry in winter, having read the Wiki.  Lately, it is producing myriad offsets around the base.  I'm concerned that I have it potted at the wrong depth.  Does anyone know how deeply this bulb prefers to be potted?  It is now sitting almost completely above the potting mix.  Also, is it best to remove the offsets, or let them mature next to the mother bulb?  If I do remove them, how big should I let them get before I separate them? It is finally really raining here in Seattle and snowing in the mountains!  It was mid-50's here yesterday and feels like spring is already here. Tony Peterson Seattle, Zone 8 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 15 Feb 2014 15:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: JOSH YOUNG Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 22:55:24 +0000 Spam messages as if sent from Josh Young appeared today. do not open them. This is the second time this happens (the first time was late last year). Do not open them. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 15 Feb 2014 16:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Erythronium 'Sundisc' parents Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 16:05:06 -0800 Regarding Paige Woodward's inquiry: Here is a quote from an old descriptive catalog, copyright 1996, prepared by Antoine Hoog when he was in business with Jan Dix: "'Sundisc' raised by Mr W. P. van Eeden from a 'Pagoda' seedling; exciting new hybrid; flowers slightly darker than in 'Pagoda'' less drooping so making the inside better visible; leaves brown, very dark and unusual, could prove to be very effective in bedding displays." Further to this, 'Pagoda' is a hybrid of Erythronium tuolumnense and E. californicum 'White Beauty'. Apparently the pollen parent of 'Sundisc' is not recorded, but it might be 'Pagoda' selfed. I don't know whether Erythronium is self-fertile. I have not found 'Sundisc' to increase as well as 'Citronella' and 'Pagoda'. Incidentally, just this morning I saw germinating seedlings from seed I saved of a beautiful small pink-flowered Erythronium hybrid raised by Walter Blom and later purchased and propagated for sale by Diana Reeck of Collectors Nursery. I assume one of the parents of the Blom hybrid is E. revolutum, but the hybrid's flowers are lighter in color and more profuse. I don't know whether the seed I obtained is selfed or perhaps the pollen parent was some other plant, but there are no other erythroniums in the immediate vicinity of this plant. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 09:59 PM 2/14/2014, Paige wrote: >One parent of the robust Erythronium hybrid 'Sundisc' is E. >tuolumnense. I am willing to take this for granted. Is the rest of >its ancestry registered, or plausibly published, somewhere? I've >been wandering online through Sargassos of recopied blither. > >All may be plain to those of you who know about registering >cultivated plants. I am out in the weeds of species. > >Given the fox-colored throat markings of 'Sundisc', my chief >suspects for the other parent are two species with similar throat >markings: E. oregonum and E. californicum, both white-flowered. All >three species are broadly within wild range of each other, given an >Olympics-caliber flying pollinator; but perhaps this is a garden cross. > >'Sundisc' is so very robust and vigorous that it is tempting to >imagine the almost as vigorous selection E. californicum 'White >Beauty' as the other parent. On the other hand, E. oregonum >sometimes has tepals with backs as green as those of 'Sundisc'. > >But there is no saying (is there?) that only two species are involved. > >Please speak up if you know the story of 'Sundisc'. From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Sat, 15 Feb 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: JOSH YOUNG Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 13:49:31 +1100 Thanks Alberto, I will keep watching for them Peter in Sydney where it's raining at last -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Sent: Sunday, 16 February 2014 9:55 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] JOSH YOUNG Spam messages as if sent from Josh Young appeared today. do not open them. This is the second time this happens (the first time was late last year). Do not open them. From paige@hillkeep.ca Sat, 15 Feb 2014 21:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <7E21375C-8ED8-4452-AC5D-7CACDE7648AE@hillkeep.ca> From: Paige Woodward Subject: Erythronium 'Sundisc' parents Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 20:33:48 -0800 Jane, thank you. I never thought to look for 'Sundisc' in the old H&D lists, regarding our friend Antoine Hoog mainly as a species man; but he is also a plantsman and businessman. And I am a blockhead. Your Blom hybrid sounds wonderful. Paige I don't have the 1996 catalogue, but in the 2000 one On Feb 15, 2014, at 4:05 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Regarding Paige Woodward's inquiry: > Here is a quote from an old descriptive catalog, copyright 1996, > prepared by Antoine Hoog when he was in business with Jan Dix: > > "'Sundisc' raised by Mr W. P. van Eeden from a 'Pagoda' seedling; > exciting new hybrid; flowers slightly darker than in 'Pagoda'' less > drooping so making the inside better visible; leaves brown, very dark > and unusual, could prove to be very effective in bedding displays." > > Further to this, 'Pagoda' is a hybrid of Erythronium tuolumnense and > E. californicum 'White Beauty'. Apparently the pollen parent of > 'Sundisc' is not recorded, but it might be 'Pagoda' selfed. I don't > know whether Erythronium is self-fertile. I have not found 'Sundisc' > to increase as well as 'Citronella' and 'Pagoda'. > > Incidentally, just this morning I saw germinating seedlings from seed > I saved of a beautiful small pink-flowered Erythronium hybrid raised > by Walter Blom and later purchased and propagated for sale by Diana > Reeck of Collectors Nursery. I assume one of the parents of the Blom > hybrid is E. revolutum, but the hybrid's flowers are lighter in color > and more profuse. I don't know whether the seed I obtained is selfed > or perhaps the pollen parent was some other plant, but there are no > other erythroniums in the immediate vicinity of this plant. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > At 09:59 PM 2/14/2014, Paige wrote: >> One parent of the robust Erythronium hybrid 'Sundisc' is E. >> tuolumnense. I am willing to take this for granted. Is the rest of >> its ancestry registered, or plausibly published, somewhere? I've >> been wandering online through Sargassos of recopied blither. >> >> All may be plain to those of you who know about registering >> cultivated plants. I am out in the weeds of species. >> >> Given the fox-colored throat markings of 'Sundisc', my chief >> suspects for the other parent are two species with similar throat >> markings: E. oregonum and E. californicum, both white-flowered. All >> three species are broadly within wild range of each other, given an >> Olympics-caliber flying pollinator; but perhaps this is a garden cross. >> >> 'Sundisc' is so very robust and vigorous that it is tempting to >> imagine the almost as vigorous selection E. californicum 'White >> Beauty' as the other parent. On the other hand, E. oregonum >> sometimes has tepals with backs as green as those of 'Sundisc'. >> >> But there is no saying (is there?) that only two species are involved. >> >> Please speak up if you know the story of 'Sundisc'. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From haweha@hotmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: JOSH YOUNG Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 11:40:13 +0000 Good SunDay everyone,I always wondered what might have happened to Mr. Josh Young.In the past, I received Spam Mail from his e mail Account on Yahoo, every now and then. But not for a while - this is correct, too. > From: ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sat, 15 Feb 2014 22:55:24 +0000 > Subject: [pbs] JOSH YOUNG > > > > > Spam messages as if sent from Josh Young appeared today. do not open them. This is the second time this happens (the first time was late last year). Do not open them. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Sun, 16 Feb 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5300E90E.30208@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Pollen Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 08:36:30 -0800 Many thanks, Fred. Diana > Hi Diana, > > My C. falcatus should be breaking dormancy very shortly. As soon as it does. I'll be happy to harvest the pollen and send it to you. > > Warm Regards, > Fred > > ...From very snow weary Cambridge MA and more on the way!!!!! > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diana Chapman > Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 9:47 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Pollen > > Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available? I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year. I am sure I could offer something nice in return. > > Diana > Telos Rare Bulbs > www.telosrarebulbs.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hanshuizing@home.nl Sun, 16 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <53010F9C.7010300@home.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: Pollen Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 20:21:00 +0100 Hi Diana, It sounds maybe quite strange, but for me it is in a lot of cases quite successful. I put some cement powder (yes cement powder) on a cotton tip and put it on the pistil. I do not know why it works, but it does. Maybe one of the components in the cement powder triggers fertilization. And please for all of you, don not start telling this is nonsense. I know from own experience that it works in quite some cases. Maybe someone can tell the secret behind this. Hans Huizing Diana Chapman schreef op 16-2-2014 17:36: > Many thanks, Fred. > > Diana >> Hi Diana, >> >> My C. falcatus should be breaking dormancy very shortly. As soon as it does. I'll be happy to harvest the pollen and send it to you. >> >> Warm Regards, >> Fred >> >> ...From very snow weary Cambridge MA and more on the way!!!!! >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diana Chapman >> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 9:47 AM >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Subject: [pbs] Pollen >> >> Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available? I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year. I am sure I could offer something nice in return. >> >> Diana >> Telos Rare Bulbs >> www.telosrarebulbs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <53011244.7010300@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: JOSH YOUNG Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 08:32:20 +1300 It seems there was another problem with Yahoo here in New Zealand too, as I got spam emails from 2 people here. So Josh's one was no problem, just Yahoo having problems. Perhaps Josh is not changing his password, as that is supposed to prevent more problems. But the real problem seems to be in Yahoo. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 17/02/2014 12:40 a.m., Hans-Werner Hammen wrote: > Good SunDay everyone,I always wondered what might have happened to Mr. Josh Young.In the past, I received Spam Mail from his e mail Account on Yahoo, every now and then. But not for a while - this is correct, too. From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Pollen Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:40:59 -0600 Hi Hans, Do you mean you brush the pistil with cement powder and then pollinate it with the pollen from the same plant? I can't imagine that cement powder alone would do the trick without pollen. It's a neat trick and could be very nicely applicable. I'll have to give it a try! I suspect that the high alkalinity of cement interferes with whatever compounds on the pistil, allowing the pollen grains to germinate. Nhu On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Hans Huizing wrote: > I put some cement powder (yes cement powder) on a cotton tip and put it > on the pistil. > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 16 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Leontice Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 14:47:23 -0800 Some bulb enthusiasts extend their interest to tuberous members of the Berberidaceae, most commonly Gymnospermium, two species of which are in flower today in my bulb house. Another genus in that family that has always intrigued me is Leontice, found in western and central Asia in dry, rocky places. For perhaps 20 years I ordered seed whenever I saw it on a list, without a hint of germination. Last fall, however, I bought seed of two species (or subspecies; the one called L. ewersmannii is usually regarded as L. leontopetalum subsp. ewersmannii) from the list of Kurt Vickery. Both have now germinated. Ewersmannii had one seedling showing before our recent severe freeze, when its pot may have frozen despite provision of heat in the shed. This morning, however, it appears that every seed has suddenly issued cotyledons. I wonder if the cold snap triggered this, perhaps by breaking the coats on the large seeds? In any case, I hope these plants are as easily raised as Gymnospermium. I'll leave them alone until they go dormant, then pot the tubers up individually. Would anyone who has experience cultivating Leontice please tell us something about how you have done it? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From cj5sfo@yahoo.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1392595549.85968.YahooMailNeo@web140001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Gregg Subject: Pollen Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:05:49 -0800 (PST) Quite fascinating, Hans.  But I wonder most as to how you came to choose using cement powder to induce fertilization??  It would likely not have been my first choice... or second or third!  That it works is remarkable.  Do you use this technique widely with different plants?   Gregg DeChirico Santa Barbara, California ________________________________ From: Hans Huizing To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 11:21 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pollen Hi Diana, It sounds maybe quite strange, but for me it is in a lot of cases quite successful. I put some cement powder (yes cement powder) on a cotton tip and put it on the pistil. I do not know why it works, but it does. Maybe one of the components in the cement powder triggers fertilization. And please for all of you, don not start telling this is nonsense. I know from own experience that it works in quite some cases. Maybe someone can tell the secret behind this. Hans Huizing Diana Chapman schreef op 16-2-2014 17:36: > Many thanks, Fred. > > Diana >> Hi Diana, >> >> My C. falcatus should be breaking dormancy very shortly. As soon as it does. I'll be happy to harvest the pollen and send it to you. >> >> Warm Regards, >> Fred >> >> ...From very snow weary Cambridge MA and more on the way!!!!! >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diana Chapman >> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 9:47 AM >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Subject: [pbs] Pollen >> >> Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available?  I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year.  I am sure I could offer something nice in return. >> >> Diana >> Telos Rare Bulbs >> www.telosrarebulbs.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From cj5sfo@yahoo.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1392596302.45878.YahooMailNeo@web140004.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Gregg Subject: Pollen Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:18:22 -0800 (PST) Hi Nhu,  A friend of mine who hybridizes Aloes mentioned using saliva on a small paintbrush to help "trick" the plant into accepting pollen from other species.  Possibly similar to Hans' cement powder application, although from an acidic reaction, it would seem.  All very interesting... Cheers.   Gregg DeChirico Santa Barbara, California ________________________________ From: Nhu Nguyen To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 2:40 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Pollen Hi Hans, Do you mean you brush the pistil with cement powder and then pollinate it with the pollen from the same plant? I can't imagine that cement powder alone would do the trick without pollen. It's a neat trick and could be very nicely applicable. I'll have to give it a try! I suspect that the high alkalinity of cement interferes with whatever compounds on the pistil, allowing the pollen grains to germinate. Nhu On Sun, Feb 16, 2014 at 1:21 PM, Hans Huizing wrote: > I put some cement powder (yes cement powder) on a cotton tip and put it > on the pistil. > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: JOSH YOUNG Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 00:20:09 +0000 Josh most certainly does not have the slightest idea that malware is distributed through his list of contacts. Most important is that we do not open such mails From john@floralarchitecture.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1392597499.62823.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web141605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Rhodocodon Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:38:19 -0800 (PST) Where has Rhodocodons gone? I tried doing a search and got nothing. They are flowering bulbs from Madagascar. I have two bulbs at the nursery that must have come from someone on this list. They are R. urginoides. Does this ring a bell with anyone? They both flowered last summer. Tall spikes about 4' with small white flowers. John From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1392598554.54576.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Rhodocodon Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 16:55:54 -0800 (PST) It's in the Wiki under Rhadamanthus:  http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Rhadamanthus Jonathan Lubar Alachua FL z8b >________________________________ > From: Floral Architecture >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 7:38 PM >Subject: [pbs] Rhodocodon > > > >Where has Rhodocodons gone? I tried doing a search and got nothing. They are flowering bulbs from Madagascar.  I have two bulbs at the nursery that must have come from someone on this list.  They are R. urginoides. Does this ring a bell with anyone? >They both flowered last summer. Tall spikes about 4' with small white flowers. > >John >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From randysgarden@gmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 18:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Cyrtanthus Help in Seattle Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2014 17:23:56 -0800 I have grown Cyrtanthus mackenii and C. brachyscyphus in Seattle, though not C. montanus. I grew them in pots outside, though I did bring them in if there was a freeze. They thrived and flowered with winter rain and dry summers. Randy Linke Seattle, WA On Sat, Feb 15, 2014 at 2:45 PM, wrote: > > > Hi all, > > I have grown a bulb sold to me as Cyrtanthus montanus for several years. > I'm growing it in a pot in my cool greenhouse. The bulb has grown well and > increased in size, but has never bloomed. I'm keeping it dry in winter, > having read the Wiki. Lately, it is producing myriad offsets around the > base. I'm concerned that I have it potted at the wrong depth. Does anyone > know how deeply this bulb prefers to be potted? It is now sitting almost > completely above the potting mix. Also, is it best to remove the offsets, > or let them mature next to the mother bulb? If I do remove them, how big > should I let them get before I separate them? > > It is finally really raining here in Seattle and snowing in the > mountains! It was mid-50's here yesterday and feels like spring is already > here. > > Tony Peterson > > Seattle, Zone 8 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- From jrroper6865@gmail.com Sun, 16 Feb 2014 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <44BA343A-1742-47FB-BFD9-0E6F5D3005FB@gmail.com> From: John Roper Subject: Climbving Plants Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 13:51:55 +1000 Members, Does any one know if there is seed of tecomanhe speciosa available in Australia? I live in Brisbane Queensland where the climate is normally around 25 to 35. Please advise if you need more information. Cheers John From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Mon, 17 Feb 2014 00:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1045365346.2909.1392624222514.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j13> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Leontice Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:03:42 +0100 (CET) Dear Jane, I have one plant of Leontice leontopetalum which for the first two years showed no signs of growth in spite of the tuber being sound. It was planted in a deep pot with a fairly ordinary potting soil above a layer of beech leafmould. When after two years it finally put out a leaf I planted it out in the garden amongst various ferns in full sun here. I have seen it as a roadside and cornfield wildlower in nothern Turkey. It was growing in fairly heavy rich soils that would not be too dry in summer. The winters in that region are about the same as here, fairly mild but with occasional hard winters with -10°C; very exceptionally even lower here. In the garden it has ordinary garden soil enriched with some leafmould and was planted with general purpose organic fertiliser as everything is here. It is growing well. But no flowers as yet. When we first saw it we thought it was a kind of brassica from afar. But as soon as we got close we could see what it was. A very fine plant that really should be more widely grown. My bongardia from Kurt Vickery are about to flower here. They are in pots waiting for their place to be finished. I am making a dry/desert garden in all this flooding Normandy! I am on a south facing slope right next to the sea so do get away with growing a lot of half-hardy plants. Galanthus peshmenii, GG. fosteri and cilicicus are fine outside here. I must get some seed of Leontice next time to have more of the great plant. Thanks for letting me know he has some. I have had some great aroids from Kurt too! This mild winter is perfect for them. Kind regards, Mark " Message du 16/02/14 23:47 > De : "Jane McGary" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Leontice > > Some bulb enthusiasts extend their interest to tuberous members of > the Berberidaceae, most commonly Gymnospermium, two species of which > are in flower today in my bulb house. Another genus in that family > that has always intrigued me is Leontice... > Would anyone who has experience cultivating Leontice please tell us > something about how you have done it? > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA" _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hanshuizing@home.nl Mon, 17 Feb 2014 02:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5301DB80.50208@home.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: Pollen Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:50:56 +0100 Hi Gregg, Nhu, I read it in an old Dutch book about sowing and growing plants. More antique than up-to-date. But when I read about this it intrigued me. I would not believe it myself in the beginning. But I like to try and and experiment. I add pollen of the same plant, and add some cement powder. And I was quite astonished about the results. I had one Cyrtanthus contractus flowering in December 2013. And I did this trick and now I have some seed pods on it........ From a spring like Holland, Hans Huizing Meppel, Holland Gregg schreef op 17-2-2014 1:05: > Quite fascinating, Hans. But I wonder most as to how you came to choose using cement powder to induce fertilization?? It would likely not have been my first choice... or second or third! That it works is remarkable. Do you use this technique widely with different plants? > > > Gregg DeChirico > Santa Barbara, California > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Hans Huizing > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Sent: Sunday, February 16, 2014 11:21 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Pollen > > > Hi Diana, > > It sounds maybe quite strange, but for me it is in a lot of cases quite > successful. > I put some cement powder (yes cement powder) on a cotton tip and put it > on the pistil. > I do not know why it works, but it does. > Maybe one of the components in the cement powder triggers fertilization. > > And please for all of you, don not start telling this is nonsense. > I know from own experience that it works in quite some cases. > > Maybe someone can tell the secret behind this. > > > Hans Huizing > > > > > > Diana Chapman schreef op 16-2-2014 17:36: >> Many thanks, Fred. >> >> Diana >>> Hi Diana, >>> >>> My C. falcatus should be breaking dormancy very shortly. As soon as it does. I'll be happy to harvest the pollen and send it to you. >>> >>> Warm Regards, >>> Fred >>> >>> ...From very snow weary Cambridge MA and more on the way!!!!! >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diana Chapman >>> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2014 9:47 AM >>> To: Pacific Bulb Society >>> Subject: [pbs] Pollen >>> >>> Does anyone have pollen of Cyrtanthus falcatus available? I have two clones, but one doesn't look like it's going to bloom this year. I am sure I could offer something nice in return. >>> >>> Diana >>> Telos Rare Bulbs >>> www.telosrarebulbs.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > *H. J. Huizing* Wapendrager 38 7943 RP Meppel Holland // Tel: (0031) 0522-440717 hanshuizing@home.nl www.dehuizings.nl www.hanshuizing.nl *Loving plants is not a virus. It's a highly evolved state of being.* Get a signature like this. Click here. From bulot@cerege.fr Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <9ec95921131b5ecbbcb005da7873be4e@imap.osupytheas.fr> From: Luc Bulot Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:04:37 +0100 Hi all, My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds started to bloom about a week ago... Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start to open... Did anybody experienced that ? Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... Best regards, Luc From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:47:31 -0500 Hi, I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. That would be helpful. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: > Hi all, > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds > started to bloom about a week ago... > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start > to open... > > Did anybody experienced that ? > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... > > Best regards, > > Luc > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1392656782.70613.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:06:22 -0800 (PST) Sparrows would be my guess. The commonest sparrow here is the so-called English or House Sparrow which, as it turns out, is technically a Weaver Finch and not closely related to the other birds native here which are called sparrows.    Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Song Sparrows and White-throated Sparrows are daily visitors to the crumb table at this time of year. On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:48 AM, Jude Haverington wrote: Hi, I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. That would be helpful. On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: > Hi all, > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds > started to bloom about a week ago... > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start > to open... > > Did anybody experienced that ? > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... > > Best regards, > > Luc > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 12:09:17 -0500 Sparrows ? I've never seen them feed upon flowers. If this is a possibility, then I learned something new! On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 12:06 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Sparrows would be my guess. > The commonest sparrow here is the so-called English or House Sparrow > which, as it turns out, is technically a Weaver Finch and not closely > related to the other birds native here which are called sparrows. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Song Sparrows > and White-throated Sparrows are daily visitors to the crumb table at this > time of year. > > > > On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:48 AM, Jude Haverington < > tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi, > I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant > leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. > Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. > You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. That > would be helpful. > > > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds > > started to bloom about a week ago... > > > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start > > to open... > > > > Did anybody experienced that ? > > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? > > > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... > > > > Best regards, > > > > Luc > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 18:17:30 +0100 Luc, It can be cutworm (Agrotis/Scotia segetum larvae), it does eat my Iris × germanica leaves, and have eaten a lot of Iris reticulara flowers. You may like to use some pirethroid or rynaxypyr (which is very effective for smaller Lepidoptera larvae). Janos Hungary From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1392661617.5702.YahooMailNeo@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 10:26:57 -0800 (PST) Jude, sparrows are little devils during the late winter when the first tender, tasty new flowers pop up. They really go for crocuses, and Iris danfordiae probably looks and tastes to them like a crocus. Jim McKenney On Monday, February 17, 2014 12:09 PM, Jude Haverington wrote: Sparrows ? I've never seen them feed upon flowers. If this is a possibility, then I learned something new! On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 12:06 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Sparrows would be my guess. > The commonest sparrow here is the so-called English or House Sparrow > which, as it turns out, is technically a Weaver Finch and not closely > related to the other birds native here which are called sparrows. > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Song Sparrows > and White-throated Sparrows are daily visitors to the crumb table at this > time of year. > > > > On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:48 AM, Jude Haverington < > tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hi, > I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant > leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. > Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. > You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. That > would be helpful. > > > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds > > started to bloom about a week ago... > > > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start > > to open... > > > > Did anybody experienced that ? > > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? > > > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... > > > > Best regards, > > > > Luc > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 13:28:48 -0500 Wow - never knew that - or witnessed that - interesting. Thanks! On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 1:26 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Jude, sparrows are little devils during the late winter when the first > tender, tasty new flowers pop up. They really go for crocuses, and Iris > danfordiae probably looks and tastes to them like a crocus. > Jim McKenney > > > > On Monday, February 17, 2014 12:09 PM, Jude Haverington < > tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: > > Sparrows ? I've never seen them feed upon flowers. If this is a > possibility, then I learned something new! > > > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 12:06 PM, Jim McKenney > wrote: > > > Sparrows would be my guess. > > The commonest sparrow here is the so-called English or House Sparrow > > which, as it turns out, is technically a Weaver Finch and not closely > > related to the other birds native here which are called sparrows. > > > > Jim McKenney > > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Song Sparrows > > and White-throated Sparrows are daily visitors to the crumb table at this > > time of year. > > > > > > > > On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:48 AM, Jude Haverington < > > tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: > > > > Hi, > > I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant > > leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. > > Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. > > You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. > That > > would be helpful. > > > > > > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: > > > > > Hi all, > > > > > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds > > > started to bloom about a week ago... > > > > > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start > > > to open... > > > > > > Did anybody experienced that ? > > > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? > > > > > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... > > > > > > Best regards, > > > > > > Luc > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ksayce@willapabay.org Mon, 17 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 11:40:04 -0800 Slugs eat buds and stems on Iris reticulata and unguicularis in my garden. I put baits out around the bases of clumps every few weeks, and if I forget, the stems just below the flowers are often eaten, leaving the flowers to break off in the wind. And the buds are eaten as well, so they open with holes and large portions chewed away. The snails stay dormant into early spring, as far as I can tell, so this is definitely one of the introduced slugs. Or several of them. Kathleen Pacific Northwest coast, zone 8 From oldtulips@gmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 14:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <66C0CB70-6933-4354-9CD4-632AC8B1A734@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 17:06:28 -0500 I started some Cyanella hyacinthoides seed received the the BX 352 - seed started last November and a pot placed on the cool 52-54F basement floor germinated quite well. a second pot started at the same time in a warmer location 55F-72F with a baggie over top to keep up the moisture had much poor germ. rate. so i placed both pots on the floor in a tray of damp sand with the cyclamen. the Cyanella seedlings have since languished and attracted aphids. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/12591956593/ does anyone have any experience growing Cyanella successfully from seed ? do these need warm root conditions once they have germinated? Mary Sue mentioned these these grow in areas of South Africa that would get quite warm in summer. Thank you Rimmer SE Michigan Humid continental Zone 5 From pelarg@aol.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 15:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <8D0FA45C96DDDFA-2390-1DC4D@webmail-m207.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 17:21:49 -0500 (EST) Cyanella are winter growing for the most part, including C hyancinthoides. So it would germinate best under cool conditions like other Cape bulbs. You do need to keep aphids away as they spread virus, also they need cool and bright (sunny) conditions to grow well. Warmth only encourages dormancy, which often happens anyway soon after flowering and seed production in spring. Ernie DeMarie Westchester Co NY Zone 7 but not this year From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 17 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Mon, 17 Feb 2014 23:21:18 +0000 4 C- 13/15 C is excellent for most winter S. African bulbs, etc. Sun is necessary as very few of them grow in shade. Some Cyanellas need moisture while in growth (hyacinthoides is not among those that like it wet). All Cyanellas need deep planting and under these conditions they develop large corms and produce a long season of bloom. From oldtulips@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 06:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <7F712DED-813A-46D0-A6DC-3C326745ACAE@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 08:35:16 -0500 Thank you Ernie and Alberto for your help, i think i need the plant these seeds deeper. i will add some sand to the top of the pots for now what is the best method for eradicating aphids- insecticide soap does nothing. Thanks Rimmer On Feb 17, 2014, at 6:21 PM, Alberto wrote: > 4 C- 13/15 C is excellent for most winter S. African bulbs, etc. > Sun is necessary as very few of them grow in shade. > > Some Cyanellas need moisture while in growth (hyacinthoides is not among those that like it wet). All Cyanellas need deep planting and under these conditions they develop large corms and produce a long season of bloom. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 18 Feb 2014 07:17:11 -0800 Message-Id: <20140218151322.3AB98E8B33@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs that remain dormant, was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 07:13:16 -0800 Rimmer first asked me about his seedlings since I donated the seed to the BX. The couple of times I visited South Africa I saw a number of species in the wild in bloom. Most of the ones I saw were growing in areas that were quite dry in winter even though that is when it rains. During dormancy it would also be quite warm. I was able to get seeds to germinate and grow and even get a number of species to bloom (obviously if I was able to donate seeds), but like Lapeirousia this is not a genus that I can grow well. I speculate but don't know for sure that perhaps my summers are too cool or my winters too wet. Plus I have a lot of trees in my yard/garden and I think probably a lot of things need more light. I'd think I'd lost most of my Cyanellas and then the rare years they would come up I'd wonder what they were until they flowered. So I suggested to Rimmer that he ask people who grew this genus successfully for advice about how to grow it. We've discussed before wondering why some of the plants we grow choose to stay underground and not sprout. That would be a good research project I think. I've had better luck with some plants moving them to my greenhouse when they are dormant so they will have a warm dormancy. When we built our greenhouse I thought of growing vegetables in winter, not using it as a storage area for dormant bulbs in summer. We've been having dryer years and California is having a very serious drought this year. When we first moved here there were a couple of El Nino years when we had more than 100 inches (2540 mm) of rain during our rainy season (it's completely dry from some time late May-June to September-November.) Last year in a drought year we had only 41 inches (1040 mm). This drought would be a deluge for some of the dryer areas of Namaqualand. This year thanks to some recent storms we're now at 16 inches (406 mm), way below our normal amount. Even that is more than some of those areas in South Africa get many years during their rainy season. Our hills are just now starting to look green. On the other hand some things that I haven't seen for years are blooming. It hasn't been colder than usual here. We've only had frost on our roof a couple of times. But there has been a lot more light since it hasn't been raining or overcast/foggy as much as usual and we've had more warmer sunny days than usual. Nathan speculated that it was colder temperatures responsible for many species blooming earlier in California than usual. I wonder if it is just more light remembering that years ago when we had a thread of how long it took for plants to grow from seed that some of our Western Australian members got plants to bloom much more rapidly than a lot of us with longer periods of good light. Bulbs blooming for me this year that haven't been good performers in the past: Moraea ciliata, Moraea bipartita (which I moved inside so there would be more warmth to open the flowers which has led to new flowers almost every day for months), Lapeirousia oreogena, Moraea comptonii, Pelargonium echinatum (I'd get leaves, not flowers). The Oxalis have been amazing. And yes, it looks like Cyanellas hyacinthoides is up for the second year in a row. And many things are blooming early. Since we collect water from our roof and had rain in November and a little after that to fill our rain barrels and use grey water, we've been able to water pots. The sometimes up Tropaeolums I grow in the greenhouse are sitting it out this year, but Tropaeolum tricolor is blooming. Why did some of these like Moraea comptonii, Moraea ciliata, and Cyanella hyacinthoides choose to grow this year? I think Rimmer definitely needs to control the aphids, but his plants may also need more light and to dry out between watering. Mary Sue From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 18 Feb 2014 08:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <20140218152056.42BF3E8B15@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: any Korean language members? Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 07:20:50 -0800 When I was a member of the wiki team, we often tried to get websites to remove photos lifted from the wiki even though we realized we'd never catch them all and communicating to ask to remove photos is a challenge. Yesterday I found this link for Sparaxis and recognized a lot of my photos along with others from our Sparaxis page. http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=wnslazgz&logNo=110045454743# Even with Google translator I couldn't figure out if there was a way to comment and ask them to take the photos off since they did not ask permission to use them and are not crediting where they came from. Is there anyone on this list who can help with this? There may be other photos from our wiki. I didn't look through all the bulb pages. Mary Sue From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 08:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 15:24:53 +0000 The seedlings will bury themselves, do not top them now. Ethylic alcohol sprayed on them or a little whisky, vodka, etc., anything containing ethylic alcohol. From randysgarden@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: any Korean language members? Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 08:21:02 -0800 I will ask my son. His specialty is Japanese and Chinese, but he has been working in Korea for 8 years and has many contacts. If you send me the text you want to use privately I will send it to him and see if he can get it translated for you. Randy Seattle, WA On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 7:20 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > When I was a member of the wiki team, we often tried to get websites > to remove photos lifted from the wiki even though we realized we'd > never catch them all and communicating to ask to remove photos is a > challenge. > > Yesterday I found this link for Sparaxis and recognized a lot of my > photos along with others from our Sparaxis page. > http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=wnslazgz&logNo=110045454743# > > Even with Google translator I couldn't figure out if there was a way > to comment and ask them to take the photos off since they did not ask > permission to use them and are not crediting where they came from. Is > there anyone on this list who can help with this? > > There may be other photos from our wiki. I didn't look through all > the bulb pages. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- From oldtulips@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <16DB210B-430F-4556-AAE2-9861E5AAA27D@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 12:56:18 -0500 on advice of someone directly in hopes of ending the aphids i have soaked all my pots with a Merit based insecticide (Bayer Tree and Shrub) - 1 tsp per 1 quart, is this too strong a solution? the aphids came with Oxalis callosa and O. obtuse - i tried Daconal which scorched the Oxalis leaves under the T-5 lights so i used the insect soap which does very little. Rimmer On Feb 18, 2014, at 10:13 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > I think Rimmer definitely needs to control the aphids, but his plants > may also need more light and to dry out between watering. > > Mary Sue From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 18 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <5042753.970199.1392747135341.JavaMail.root@vznit170176> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 12:12:15 -0600 (CST) Rimmer: I think the Daconil is a fungicide in most cases. Merit is also marketed for container plants. I can't get to my garage to have a look at the label. Go online and see the label on their site. I believe Bayer has it. I use the soap application with good success. You have to reapply every 3-5 days as the eggs hatch. I use Murphy's oil soap which is a commercial product marketed for cleaning wood floors. ( one ounce in a quart) If all else fails I'd go with Alberto's advice and blast with a cheap vodka mix. Arnold From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 18:14:29 +0000 On the plant, Arnold! From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 11:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <431F4FF83D53804882635BB30D7AC052227AC4FC@SACMBXIP02.sdcorp.global.sandisk.com> From: Chad Schroter Subject: Lachenalia 'Romaud' Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 18:19:36 +0000 I got my bulbs 3 years ago and they have increased in size each year - but no offsets yet. The plants this year are incredibly robust, the flowering stems are at least 1/2 inch in diameter and the flowers well over 12" high. They have been outside in a pot all winter with minimal protection. I understand they can be propagated from leaf cuttings, but I am really interested in trying to get something 'new' from seed - has anyone had success harvesting seed from these? Chad Schroter in Zone 9 SF Bay Area ________________________________ PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 11:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <431F4FF83D53804882635BB30D7AC052227AC530@SACMBXIP02.sdcorp.global.sandisk.com> From: Chad Schroter Subject: Lachenalia Romaud Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 18:28:23 +0000 Here is a link to a picture (if I don't mess this up) https://www.flickr.com/photos/29773313@N08/12617547023/ There's a quarter on the leaf for scale Chad ________________________________ PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Chapman Subject: Lachenalia 'Romaud' Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 13:37:09 -0600 Chad, I don't know about that hybrid specifically but many species and hybrids of Lachenalia are self sterile. If your is as well you would need to try with another hybrid or species. The chromosome counts for the genus are all over the map so unless you want to get in depth, just try something and cross your fingers. Tim Chapman > > I understand they can be propagated from leaf cuttings, but I am really interested in trying to get something 'new' from seed - has anyone had success harvesting seed from these? > > Chad Schroter in Zone 9 SF Bay From nickplummer@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 16:08:38 -0500 Since aphids are on the leaves, I shouldn't think you would need to soak the pot. The imidacloprid in Bayer Tree and Shrub is supposedly systemic, but I've never seen much effect when it is applied to roots. As a spray, it works nicely. Beware of ethyl alcohol. Some plants are sensitive. I once killed a large Paphiopedilum specimen while experimenting with ethyl alcohol as an insecticide. The alcohol got down in the leaf axils and destroyed the plant tissue. Isopropyl alcohol is less toxic to plants, and I use 70% isopropyl to control mealybugs on a variety of orchids and bulbs. Nick On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Rimmer wrote: > on advice of someone directly in hopes of ending the aphids i have soaked > all my pots with a Merit based insecticide (Bayer Tree and Shrub) - 1 tsp > per 1 quart, is this too strong a solution? > > the aphids came with Oxalis callosa and O. obtuse - i tried Daconal which > scorched the Oxalis leaves under the T-5 lights so i used the insect soap > which does very little. > > Rimmer > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > 70% From brad@alpinepfl.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <000001cf2d08$6f8e51a0$4eaaf4e0$@alpinepfl.com> From: "Brad King" Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 19:20:46 -0500 Hi Rimmer, Firstly Daconil is a fungicide. If you are using a liquid or flowable formulation there are both oil base products and water based products. If you are getting phytotoxicity it is probably the oil carrier. It will be related to either the concentration of the solution or rate of application, especially on tender or young or sick plants. (Did you give a quick misting or did you apply to a point of run off?) Daconil is a great fungicide if you need one. Don't give up on it. If you need to use it in the future and are concerned about burn, apply it in the evening or on a cloudy day. If it's under lights turn the lights off for a period of time. Same thing for the insecticide Merit or Admire. There are many different formulations of this insecticide. It's hard to say if the rate is OK. These products are used as a soil drench in many commercial situations. It is possible to damage the plants with over applying a drench as well. It is a systemic and is taken up by the plant. The plant has to deal with the chemical in its system. I hope this helps you out . Brad. Ontario Canada, Zone 5b Warm 0 C/32 F and 6 more inches of snow today. aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Rimmer (Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:56:18 PST) on advice of someone directly in hopes of ending the aphids i have soaked all my pots with a Merit based insecticide (Bayer Tree and Shrub) - 1 tsp per 1 quart, is this too strong a solution? the aphids came with Oxalis callosa and O. obtuse - i tried Daconal which scorched the Oxalis leaves under the T-5 lights so i used the insect soap which does very little. From oldtulips@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <86C135C3-6EF0-4C57-8312-CDF82B7758AF@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 19:40:04 -0500 Hi Brad Thanks all for you help the Daconil was misted on the plant and it burned under the hot T-5 lights, that was my first day lesson with T-5s . i quickly added a fan and turned off 4 of the lights. will Daconil stop moss or green slime growth in germination boxes of damp peat with tiny streptocarpus seeds? Rimmer On Feb 18, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Brad King wrote: > Hi Rimmer, > > Firstly Daconil is a fungicide. If you are using a liquid or flowable > formulation there are both oil base products and water based products. If > you are getting phytotoxicity it is probably the oil carrier. It will be > related to either the concentration of the solution or rate of application, > especially on tender or young or sick plants. (Did you give a quick misting > or did you apply to a point of run off?) Daconil is a great fungicide if you > need one. Don't give up on it. If you need to use it in the future and are > concerned about burn, apply it in the evening or on a cloudy day. If it's > under lights turn the lights off for a period of time. > > Same thing for the insecticide Merit or Admire. There are many different > formulations of this insecticide. It's hard to say if the rate is OK. These > products are used as a soil drench in many commercial situations. It is > possible to damage the plants with over applying a drench as well. It is a > systemic and is taken up by the plant. The plant has to deal with the > chemical in its system. > > I hope this helps you out . Brad. > > Ontario Canada, Zone 5b > > Warm 0 C/32 F and 6 more inches of snow today. > > > > > > > > > > aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice > Rimmer (Tue, 18 Feb 2014 09:56:18 PST) > > on advice of someone directly in hopes of ending the aphids i have soaked > all my pots with a Merit based insecticide (Bayer Tree and Shrub) - 1 tsp > per 1 quart, is this too strong a solution? > > the aphids came with Oxalis callosa and O. obtuse - i tried Daconal which > scorched the Oxalis leaves under the T-5 lights so i used the insect soap > which does very little. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brad@alpinepfl.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <000b01cf2d0f$6eae9bd0$4c0bd370$@alpinepfl.com> From: "Brad King" Subject: aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 20:10:51 -0500 Rimmer, Daconil will have no effect on moss or algae. Brad. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Rimmer Sent: February 18, 2014 7:40 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Hi Brad Thanks all for you help the Daconil was misted on the plant and it burned under the hot T-5 lights, that was my first day lesson with T-5s . i quickly added a fan and turned off 4 of the lights. will Daconil stop moss or green slime growth in germination boxes of damp peat with tiny streptocarpus seeds? Rimmer On Feb 18, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Brad King wrote: > Hi Rimmer, > > Firstly Daconil is a fungicide. If you are using a liquid or flowable > formulation there are both oil base products and water based products. > If you are getting phytotoxicity it is probably the oil carrier. It > will be related to either the concentration of the solution or rate of > application, especially on tender or young or sick plants. (Did you > give a quick misting or did you apply to a point of run off?) Daconil > is a great fungicide if you need one. Don't give up on it. If you need > to use it in the future and are concerned about burn, apply it in the > evening or on a cloudy day. If it's under lights turn the lights off for a period of time. > > Same thing for the insecticide Merit or Admire. There are many > different formulations of this insecticide. It's hard to say if the > rate is OK. These products are used as a soil drench in many > commercial situations. It is possible to damage the plants with over > applying a drench as well. It is a systemic and is taken up by the > plant. The plant has to deal with the chemical in its system. > > I hope this helps you out . Brad. > > Ontario Canada, Zone 5b > > Warm 0 C/32 F and 6 more inches of snow today. > > > > > > > > > > aphid control was Cyanella seedling advice Rimmer (Tue, 18 Feb 2014 > 09:56:18 PST) > > on advice of someone directly in hopes of ending the aphids i have > soaked all my pots with a Merit based insecticide (Bayer Tree and > Shrub) - 1 tsp per 1 quart, is this too strong a solution? > > the aphids came with Oxalis callosa and O. obtuse - i tried Daconal > which scorched the Oxalis leaves under the T-5 lights so i used the > insect soap which does very little. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 18 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Question about Ixia in New Zealand Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 18:07:35 -0800 Can anyone in New Zealand recommend a source of Ixia for Anita? Please write to her directly at the address in this forwarded message. >Subject: PBS website contact:IXIA Bulbs >From: Anita > >Hi I am getting interested in IXIAS now and was wondering if you >know any grower /collector in New zealand who can help me please >regards anita, Auckland NZ From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <00a801cf2d1e$ba2ddb70$2e899250$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Lachenalia "Romaud" Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 19:00:19 -0800 Chad wrote: > I am really interested in trying to get something 'new' from seed - has anyone had success harvesting seed from these? Those are nice plants, Chad! As Tim pointed out, many bulbs are self-sterile, but you don't know for sure until you try. It's easy to pollinate Lachnelaia -- just cram a little soft paintbrush up into the flower, twirl it around, check to make sure you're getting some pollen on the brush, and then repeat the process on other flowers. Some Lachenalias have anthers that stick out of the flower ends, others keep the anthers inside. Give it a try and see if your plants make seeds. If pollination is successful, small seed pods will form inside the flowers after they fade. When the plant goes dormant, the flower stalk will wither and dry out, and the seed pots will open. The pods are often very tiny, and hidden inside the dried remains of the flowers, so look carefully. Lachenalia seeds look like tiny shiny black balls with a little black appendage on them -- kind of like the bomb Dick Dastardly would set off in an old Dudley Do-Right cartoon. Anyway, the seeds are easy to spot, and easy to grow. If you don't get seeds, obtain some other Lachenalia species this summer and cross them. There are some good commercial sources listed on the PBS Sources page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources They cross pretty easily, and you'll get flowers in about three years from seed. Have fun!! Mike San Jose, CA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 20:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <00af01cf2d26$30483740$90d8a5c0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: A new Moraea hybrid Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 19:53:43 -0800 The spring Moraea-blooming season is underway here at my house, a month early. Plants in bloom include Moraea tricolor, macronyx, tulbaghensis, tripetala, ciliata, gawleri, and atropunctata. I've also just gotten a flower from my first new Moraea hybrid of the year, a cross between Moraea tricolor and M. macronyx. If you're not familiar with those species, they're both low-growing plants whose flowers last for only a single day. Fortunately, they bloom over a fairly long period lasting several weeks to more than a month. So they're worth growing, and the flowers are always a nice surprise when they pop up overnight. Moraea macronyx has white and yellow flowers that are very clean and vibrant, while Moraea tricolor is famous for its bright pink flowers. Put them together and you get something that has yellow, mauvey-red, and white. I think it's really interesting. You can see photos here: http://growingcoolplants.blogspot.com/2014/02/moraea-mm-12-143.html Mike San Jose, CA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 18 Feb 2014 21:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <00b801cf2d2c$fdc60de0$f95229a0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Moraea tricolor - color forms or hybrids? Date: Tue, 18 Feb 2014 20:42:25 -0800 Last year I mentioned on the list that I'd seen a couple of unusual color forms of Moraea tricolor. The flowers showed up in a pot of Moraea tricolor seedlings that were given to me by Bob Werra, the dean of Moraea growers in the US (thanks, Bob!). The corms had not yet bloomed for Bob, so when they came up in purple and orange rather than the usual pink, Bob and I were both surprised. This year several more of them have bloomed, with colors ranging from yellow-orange to a kind of a pale mauve. Bob thought they might be accidental hybrids, and I'm still investigating that possibility. But they don't look like my other hybrids. Somebody else suggested they might be M. papilionacea, but I grow those as well, and the flower shapes are quite different. Other than the color, these plants look exactly like plants of M. tricolor. Goldblatt's book says M. tricolor can rarely be found in yellow and purple, so maybe these are just natural color forms. If any of the Moraea experts out there have any ideas, please speak up. I am trying to build up my stock of these plants so I can share them. Bob gets first dibs, but after that I hope to share these on the BX. It'll take several years, so in the meantime, here's how they look: http://growingcoolplants.blogspot.com/2014/02/unusual-color-forms-of-moraea- tricolor.html Mike San Jose, CA From leo@possi.org Wed, 19 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <3abf283730a7c80fb2b20976a1d779a4.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 09:59:06 -0800 (PST) Rimmer wrote > what is the best method for eradicating aphids- > insecticide soap does nothing. If your soil mixture does not float, put the container into a deep container of water and drown the aphids. This works with mealy bugs as well. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From oldtulips@gmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <526D1E8F-E9B3-4FE7-A32F-BFCF6AAE1390@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 13:04:10 -0500 interesting, my mix is mostly sand,turface, etc, and no perlite how long would you drown the pot? Rimmer On Feb 19, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Rimmer wrote > >> what is the best method for eradicating aphids- >> insecticide soap does nothing. > > If your soil mixture does not float, put the container into a deep container of water > and drown the aphids. This works with mealy bugs as well. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From leo@possi.org Wed, 19 Feb 2014 10:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Growing under lights Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 10:14:26 -0800 (PST) I've been doing some reading on indoor lights, for terrestrial plants and planted aquaria. Here is an article I just submitted for the newsletter of the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society. While it understandably focuses on succulents, the information is easily generalizable to bulbs. I have been doing a lot of reading about lights for growing plants indoors. It turns out white fluorescent lights of the proper color are at least as good as specialty "grow-lights." Fluorescent lights, including tubes and CFLs, are sold in different colors of white. They are labeled as to color temperature, which is measured in Kelvins, abbreviated as K. The color temperature is almost always printed on the tube, label or box, often in tiny print. Color temperature refers to the relative proportion of various light wavelengths in the light. When we see multiple wavelengths mixed together they form what we perceive as white light. I discovered years ago that 40 Watt "cool white" fluorescent tubes are fine for sprouting most cactus seedlings and growing them on for a few years, before they are ready to be transplanted outside to individual pots. But "cool white" is around 3,500K, and this doesn't contain enough of the proper wavelengths for most other plants. Cactus seedlings do fine with cool white because they generally don't need that much light to grow. Cool white contains only small amounts of the wavelengths chlorophyll absorbs, but that amount is sufficient for most cactus seedlings for a while. Cool white is not adquate for Opuntia seedlings. The best artificial light color temperature for almost all plants is 6,500K, which is usually called something like "daylight." This has a lot of pink and blue wavelengths, which are the ones absorbed by chlorophyll. Both straight standard fluorescent tubes and CFLs of the proper light temperature and wattage are great for growing plants indoors. Straight fluorescent tubes are now sold in varying lengths and diameters. New small-diameter tubes (T5, T8) are a lot more expensive than the old 1" tubes. The old tubes work just fine at a much lower cost. 4 foot long tubes of 6,500K and 40 Watts can be mounted in cheap 2-tube shop light fixtures and suspended over your growing area. Spiral CFL tubes are engineered to give the greatest amount of light down the axis of the spiral. So, when using them for plant lights, they should not be mounted sideways; they should be pointing down at the plants. Most people who use them as plant lights use individual hanging light fixtures with a conical reflector. A 45 Watt CFL provides as much light as a 200 Watt incandescent light bulb, with much less heat, while using much less electricity. It is possible to bloom high-light plants like Hibiscus indoors in dim rooms under 45W CFL lamps. Use a heavy-duty mechanical clock appliance timer with a 10 to 12 hour on schedule. These are not always available at hardware stores, but they are much more reliable than cheap electronic lamp timers. You may have to go online to find one. Ace Hardware sells heavy-duty mechanical clock timers around Christmas for use with outdoor lights. If you use multiple light fixtures, plug the fixtures into a power strip, then plug the power strip into the heavy-duty timer. Take care the total amperage of your array does not exceed the amperage rating of the timer nor circuit breaker. Many indoor growers have discovered most plants don't need long nights, so plants can have multiple light-on periods per day. I have been told that people who grow certain crops indoors now give their plants 11 hour on, 1 hour off cycles, and they get twice the growth rate - which means half the time to harvest. I haven't tested this with cactus seedlings. Many succulents only open their pores to absorb carbon dioxide at night, storing it until the next day, when they use it to make sugar in the sunlight. Succulents with this kind of metabolism probably shouldn't be on 1-hour night cycles. Cactus seedlings aren't like this; when immature they open their pores during the day, so short nights shouldn't be a problem for them. I have read that adult cacti are limited in the amount of carbon dioxide they can absorb at night, since plant tissues become more and more acidic as the carbon dioxide is stored, and there is a limit to what the plant will tolerate. Cacti taste much more sour just before dawn than they did just after dusk. This is one explanation of why cacti grow slower than plants that can absorb carbon dioxide all day long. Cacti generally have absorbed as much carbon dioxide as they can hold in the first few hours of darkness. So I might guess adult succulents should have somewhere in the range of 4-6 hours of darkness, but this is just a guess, and experimentation would yield real information. Crinkled mylar can be bought very cheaply at hydroponics shops to line reflectors. This provides better light reflection than a pure white or polished metal reflector. Most big-box stores carry 6,500K CFLs, up to and including 45W. If not available at the store they can be bought online. They also carry 6,500K, 40W standard tubes. Most fluorescent tube shop lights sold are 20W so, again, read the label. You have to read the labels and do some searching, because the sales people generally don't know anything about color temperature, and they will try to sell you the much-more-expensive "grow-lights." Tubes and CFLs don't provide the same light output over time; they become dimmer. Our eyes can't tell the difference, but the plants can. Replace straight tubes once a year. I write the date I put them in service on the tube with a marker. For CFLs, read the manufacturer's information on hours of service. Replace the bulbs when they are down to 75% of original brightness, unless you are still happy with your results. Commercial vegetable growers in southern California are now growing organic-certified greens indoors in warehouses under arrays of pink and blue LED lights. Remember, these are the wavelengths chlorophyll absorbs. The photos are eerie because the light looks so strange. The greens are grown in mats on shelves, stacked on wheeled carts, with the LED arrays underneath each shelf, to shine on the plants on the shelf below. There may be 12 or more shelves per cart. Dilute fertilizer solution is pumped to the top shelves, and then flows down to the other shelves. Access is carefully controlled so no insects enter the warehouses, and no pesticides are needed. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <011201cf2da7$f49d1f80$ddd75e80$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Growing under lights Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 14:22:39 -0500 I don't see how hydroponics can be certified organic since organic fertilizers are real no-no's in hydroponics for reasons of sanitation. You don't pump sewage over food-plants. Also, the last time I looked (3 months ago), sodium vapor lamps still give the most bang for the buck, factoring in initial cost. The sodium D lines are a little more energetic than the short IR that chlorophyll likes but they can shrug off the extra energy. I think the blue is just a growth regulator and green is a growth inhibitor since one says the sky is visible and the other says you're being shaded. The price of these LED arrays has plummeted this last year and should soon overtake (undertake?) the plasma type lamps. But who's going to do the heavy lifting on artificial lighting now that everybody's legalizing wacky weed and there's no incentive to grow it in the basement anymore? Tim Eck PA -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Leo A. Martin Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 1:14 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Growing under lights I've been doing some reading on indoor lights, for terrestrial plants and planted aquaria. Here is an article I just submitted for the newsletter of the Central Arizona Cactus and Succulent Society. While it understandably focuses on succulents, the information is easily generalizable to bulbs. I have been doing a lot of reading about lights for growing plants indoors. It turns out white fluorescent lights of the proper color are at least as good as specialty "grow-lights." Fluorescent lights, including tubes and CFLs, are sold in different colors of white. They are labeled as to color temperature, which is measured in Kelvins, abbreviated as K. The color temperature is almost always printed on the tube, label or box, often in tiny print. Color temperature refers to the relative proportion of various light wavelengths in the light. When we see multiple wavelengths mixed together they form what we perceive as white light. I discovered years ago that 40 Watt "cool white" fluorescent tubes are fine for sprouting most cactus seedlings and growing them on for a few years, before they are ready to be transplanted outside to individual pots. But "cool white" is around 3,500K, and this doesn't contain enough of the proper wavelengths for most other plants. Cactus seedlings do fine with cool white because they generally don't need that much light to grow. Cool white contains only small amounts of the wavelengths chlorophyll absorbs, but that amount is sufficient for most cactus seedlings for a while. Cool white is not adquate for Opuntia seedlings. The best artificial light color temperature for almost all plants is 6,500K, which is usually called something like "daylight." This has a lot of pink and blue wavelengths, which are the ones absorbed by chlorophyll. Both straight standard fluorescent tubes and CFLs of the proper light temperature and wattage are great for growing plants indoors. Straight fluorescent tubes are now sold in varying lengths and diameters. New small-diameter tubes (T5, T8) are a lot more expensive than the old 1" tubes. The old tubes work just fine at a much lower cost. 4 foot long tubes of 6,500K and 40 Watts can be mounted in cheap 2-tube shop light fixtures and suspended over your growing area. Spiral CFL tubes are engineered to give the greatest amount of light down the axis of the spiral. So, when using them for plant lights, they should not be mounted sideways; they should be pointing down at the plants. Most people who use them as plant lights use individual hanging light fixtures with a conical reflector. A 45 Watt CFL provides as much light as a 200 Watt incandescent light bulb, with much less heat, while using much less electricity. It is possible to bloom high-light plants like Hibiscus indoors in dim rooms under 45W CFL lamps. Use a heavy-duty mechanical clock appliance timer with a 10 to 12 hour on schedule. These are not always available at hardware stores, but they are much more reliable than cheap electronic lamp timers. You may have to go online to find one. Ace Hardware sells heavy-duty mechanical clock timers around Christmas for use with outdoor lights. If you use multiple light fixtures, plug the fixtures into a power strip, then plug the power strip into the heavy-duty timer. Take care the total amperage of your array does not exceed the amperage rating of the timer nor circuit breaker. Many indoor growers have discovered most plants don't need long nights, so plants can have multiple light-on periods per day. I have been told that people who grow certain crops indoors now give their plants 11 hour on, 1 hour off cycles, and they get twice the growth rate - which means half the time to harvest. I haven't tested this with cactus seedlings. Many succulents only open their pores to absorb carbon dioxide at night, storing it until the next day, when they use it to make sugar in the sunlight. Succulents with this kind of metabolism probably shouldn't be on 1-hour night cycles. Cactus seedlings aren't like this; when immature they open their pores during the day, so short nights shouldn't be a problem for them. I have read that adult cacti are limited in the amount of carbon dioxide they can absorb at night, since plant tissues become more and more acidic as the carbon dioxide is stored, and there is a limit to what the plant will tolerate. Cacti taste much more sour just before dawn than they did just after dusk. This is one explanation of why cacti grow slower than plants that can absorb carbon dioxide all day long. Cacti generally have absorbed as much carbon dioxide as they can hold in the first few hours of darkness. So I might guess adult succulents should have somewhere in the range of 4-6 hours of darkness, but this is just a guess, and experimentation would yield real information. Crinkled mylar can be bought very cheaply at hydroponics shops to line reflectors. This provides better light reflection than a pure white or polished metal reflector. Most big-box stores carry 6,500K CFLs, up to and including 45W. If not available at the store they can be bought online. They also carry 6,500K, 40W standard tubes. Most fluorescent tube shop lights sold are 20W so, again, read the label. You have to read the labels and do some searching, because the sales people generally don't know anything about color temperature, and they will try to sell you the much-more-expensive "grow-lights." Tubes and CFLs don't provide the same light output over time; they become dimmer. Our eyes can't tell the difference, but the plants can. Replace straight tubes once a year. I write the date I put them in service on the tube with a marker. For CFLs, read the manufacturer's information on hours of service. Replace the bulbs when they are down to 75% of original brightness, unless you are still happy with your results. Commercial vegetable growers in southern California are now growing organic-certified greens indoors in warehouses under arrays of pink and blue LED lights. Remember, these are the wavelengths chlorophyll absorbs. The photos are eerie because the light looks so strange. The greens are grown in mats on shelves, stacked on wheeled carts, with the LED arrays underneath each shelf, to shine on the plants on the shelf below. There may be 12 or more shelves per cart. Dilute fertilizer solution is pumped to the top shelves, and then flows down to the other shelves. Access is carefully controlled so no insects enter the warehouses, and no pesticides are needed. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From electric.rice@gmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: My Tong Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 11:36:49 -0800 I purchased quite a few saffron bulbs at an end-of-season sale and planted them in November. They came up and developed foliage, but no flower so far. It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of this year? Also, I have a couple of plants that I need help identified as they were planted by previous tenants. Crocosmia: http://imgur.com/ql0Dj8i Chasmanthe? http://imgur.com/1Hi9hGR Not a bulb, but a shrub that suddenly pops up in the garden: http://imgur.com/onOpYq2 Thanks for your help! My Zone 10A, Richmond, CA From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <000e01cf2dac$d3286b20$79794160$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 14:57:30 -0500 They will flower in the late summer or fall before the leaves emerge or about the same time. They should still be showing foliage which should die back in the summer. I had a fairly large plot for a while - well over a thousand bulbs. In this area (SE PA zone 6B) you must be careful of voles because they can eat it all in one season. I have built beds with hardware cloth covers and I have laid hardware cloth on the ground and let the leaves and flowers grow through it. The second method is far easier but weeding is problematic and restricted to hosing it down with herbicide once a year during dormancy. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of My Tong Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 2:37 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? I purchased quite a few saffron bulbs at an end-of-season sale and planted them in November. They came up and developed foliage, but no flower so far. It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of this year? Also, I have a couple of plants that I need help identified as they were planted by previous tenants. Crocosmia: http://imgur.com/ql0Dj8i Chasmanthe? http://imgur.com/1Hi9hGR Not a bulb, but a shrub that suddenly pops up in the garden: http://imgur.com/onOpYq2 Thanks for your help! My Zone 10A, Richmond, CA From ikizzeki@yahoo.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1392840328.16548.YahooMailNeo@web126205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Zeki Ikiz Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 12:05:28 -0800 (PST) In my opinion it may not flower ..It also needs cold weather for previous winter.Your climate is not cold so it would refuse to bloom.. The last, I am not master. Greetings from Turkey, antalya. On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 9:58 PM, Tim Eck wrote: They will flower in the late summer or fall before the leaves emerge or about the same time.  They should still be showing foliage which should die back in the summer. I had a fairly large plot for a while - well over a thousand bulbs.  In this area (SE PA zone 6B) you must be careful of voles because they can eat it all in one season.  I have built beds with hardware cloth covers and I have laid hardware cloth on the ground and let the leaves and flowers grow through it.  The second method is far easier but weeding is problematic and restricted to hosing it down with herbicide once a year during dormancy. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of My Tong Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 2:37 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? I purchased quite a few saffron bulbs at an end-of-season sale and planted them in November. They came up and developed foliage, but no flower so far. It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of this year? Also, I have a couple of plants that I need help identified as they were planted by previous tenants. Crocosmia: http://imgur.com/ql0Dj8i Chasmanthe? http://imgur.com/1Hi9hGR Not a bulb, but a shrub that suddenly pops up in the garden: http://imgur.com/onOpYq2 Thanks for your help! My Zone 10A, Richmond, CA From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <001d01cf2dca$28a9bcd0$79fd3670$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 18:27:26 -0500 Good point! They should probably be donated to a non-profit organization. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Zeki Ikiz Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 3:05 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? In my opinion it may not flower ..It also needs cold weather for previous winter.Your climate is not cold so it would refuse to bloom.. The last, I am not master. Greetings from Turkey, antalya. On Wednesday, February 19, 2014 9:58 PM, Tim Eck wrote: They will flower in the late summer or fall before the leaves emerge or about the same time.  They should still be showing foliage which should die back in the summer. I had a fairly large plot for a while - well over a thousand bulbs.  In this area (SE PA zone 6B) you must be careful of voles because they can eat it all in one season.  I have built beds with hardware cloth covers and I have laid hardware cloth on the ground and let the leaves and flowers grow through it.  The second method is far easier but weeding is problematic and restricted to hosing it down with herbicide once a year during dormancy. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of My Tong Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 2:37 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativus blooming? I purchased quite a few saffron bulbs at an end-of-season sale and planted them in November. They came up and developed foliage, but no flower so far. It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of this year? Also, I have a couple of plants that I need help identified as they were planted by previous tenants. Crocosmia: http://imgur.com/ql0Dj8i Chasmanthe? http://imgur.com/1Hi9hGR Not a bulb, but a shrub that suddenly pops up in the garden: http://imgur.com/onOpYq2 Thanks for your help! My Zone 10A, Richmond, CA From totototo@telus.net Wed, 19 Feb 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5304D824.6715.2519@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 16:13:24 -0800 On 19 Feb 2014, at 11:36, My Tong wrote: > I purchased quite a few saffron bulbs at an end-of-season sale and planted > them in November. They came up and developed foliage, but no flower so far. > It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of > this year? Much of the saffron crocus sold commercially is undersized and won't flower until it's built up strength. Feed them well, but judiciously, this spring and maybe they'll flower this coming fall. If you get no flowers this year, be patient and give them more time. As for winter chilling, we get adequate chilling here in Victoria BC for saffron crocus to flower. The Bay area may be too warm in winter, but if you plant your saffron on the north side of the house, close enough to the house to be in shade all winter, that may help. Many crocuses seem to prefer a rather lean, sandy, sharply drained soil. If your native soil doesn't meet those requirements, this summer try replanting your saffron with a bed of clean sand under them, back filling the whole with more sand. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <476A1F64-CB78-4267-8AEF-0F176C0EFEE5@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 16:23:08 -0800 Unlike many Crocus, a cold winter is not required for Crocus sativus to flower and be perennial. See this reference's abstract: http://www.actahort.org/books/650/650_2.htm The abstract says more cold is required to initiate bloom than to form the blooms in the corms. And even that "cold" is only 17 C, or 63 F, hardly what I would call "cold". They grew fine in my garden until critters ate them. I have always been fascinated how long their leaves grow. - Gastil Santa Barbara, California Approximately USDA zone 9b or 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <53054D8A.8080907@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 13:34:18 +1300 That is good to know as I bought some and certainly expect to get flowers. I grow autumn crocus which grows like a weed, so it all depends on which crocus. And from the ones on Facebook, which flower happily, there are quite a few which will flower in mild climates. It will be as is mentioned, possibly that the bulbs are not mature enough. I hope mine are.... Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 20/02/2014 1:23 p.m., Gastil Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Unlike many Crocus, a cold winter is not required for Crocus sativus to flower and be perennial. > See this reference's abstract: > http://www.actahort.org/books/650/650_2.htm > > The abstract says more cold is required to initiate bloom than to form the blooms in the corms. And even that "cold" is only 17 C, or 63 F, hardly what I would call "cold". > > They grew fine in my garden until critters ate them. I have always been fascinated how long their leaves grow. > > - Gastil > Santa Barbara, California > Approximately USDA zone 9b or 10a > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 18:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 01:32:33 +0000 The corms bury themselves to 30 or more cm. Deep planting fatten the corms by stopping mad offsetting. Mature corms are capable of flowering. Shallow planting will encourage the production of offsets and thus the corm loses a lot of substance and weight and never reaches maturity. From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 18:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <53055F2D.2080600@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 14:49:33 +1300 Thank you Alberto. That is helpful to know. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 20/02/2014 2:32 p.m., Alberto wrote: > The corms bury themselves to 30 or more cm. > Deep planting fatten the corms by stopping mad offsetting. > Mature corms are capable of flowering. > Shallow planting will encourage the production of offsets and thus the corm loses a lot of substance and weight and never reaches maturity. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 19 Feb 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1392863958.66845.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: David Pilling's Lilium regale video Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 18:39:18 -0800 (PST) While searching for lily images tonight I ended up on one of the PBS wiki pages for lilies. There I stumbled on David Pilling's short video of bees on Lilium regale. What a treat that was: we're still under snow (rapidly melting) and the only signs of life in the garden are a few snowdrops and witch hazels. Thanks, David, for a cheery few minutes of summer. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7,  where with luck we might soon be seeing winter aconites and crocuses. From willis@fred.net Wed, 19 Feb 2014 20:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <691D50E0-9DED-4CAF-8CFC-272616515AD6@fred.net> From: John Willis Subject: Ferraria ferrariola blooming Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2014 22:46:18 -0500 I wanted to share the first images of my Ferraria ferrariola blooming at http://macgardens.org/?p=3887. I've salivated over the PBS images of Ferrarias since I first completed my greenhouse and I'm delighted to finally have one in bloom. I thought it was only fitting that I also include a shameless plug for the PBS in my posting. Gardens get wilder every day … MacGardens From ceridwen@internode.on.net Wed, 19 Feb 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <209701DE-1CF6-4D6B-ACD7-5AEC388BDBB1@internode.on.net> From: Ceridwen Lloyd Subject: Ferraria ferrariola blooming Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 16:27:05 +1030 And if they set seed, well, you know... Sent from my iPhone > On 20 Feb 2014, at 2:16 pm, John Willis wrote: > > I wanted to share the first images of my Ferraria ferrariola blooming at http://macgardens.org/?p=3887. I've salivated over the PBS images of Ferrarias since I first completed my greenhouse and I'm delighted to finally have one in bloom. I thought it was only fitting that I also include a shameless plug for the PBS in my posting. > > Gardens get wilder every day … > MacGardens > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From contact@bulbargence.com Wed, 19 Feb 2014 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Crocus sativus blooming? Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 07:55:55 +0100 Hello Roger, The flower inside the corm is dead by now. It will flower next November By for now Lauw de Jager South of France where we have exceptionally warm winter. -----Original Message----- > It's February now, so does that mean they won't flower till the fall of > this year? From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Thu, 20 Feb 2014 04:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: David Pilling's Lilium regale video Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 12:09:24 +0000 Hi, In message <1392863958.66845.YahooMailNeo@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, Jim McKenney writes >pages for lilies. There I stumbled on David Pilling's short video of >bees on Lilium regale. Thanks. This is the link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ix4Jtwsb0Dw >What a treat that was: we're still under snow (rapidly melting) and the >only signs of life in the garden are a few snowdrops and witch hazels. There has been a step towards Spring here in North West England in the last week, it is much warmer and there are lots of crocus, iris reticulata and a few daffodils out. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From dkramb@badbear.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 07:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Ferraria ferrariola blooming Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:39:45 -0500 Well bloomed, sir!!! Ferraria are fascinating with all those frills & folds in the flowers. How is the aroma of F. ferrariola? Some of the Ferraria I've smelled are pungent! Dennis in Cincinnati (who wants a greenhouse too!) On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:46 PM, John Willis wrote: > I wanted to share the first images of my Ferraria ferrariola blooming at > http://macgardens.org/?p=3887. I've salivated over the PBS images of > Ferrarias since I first completed my greenhouse and I'm delighted to > finally have one in bloom. I thought it was only fitting that I also > include a shameless plug for the PBS in my posting. > > Gardens get wilder every day ... > MacGardens > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <000601cf2e84$7112ec20$5338c460$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Daubenya bub Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 15:40:57 -0600 Hi- I recently dug up this bulb; doubting it's a Daubenya. http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=89 &u=17185230 The bulb is the size of a golf ball. I tried to Google a Daubenya (aurea) bulb; but only found flowers & foliage. I did find pics of seedling plants that match the foliage on mine. I didn't date the label when the seed was sown. I've bought it several times, so it's either from 2010 or 2012. My question is: based on the size and shape of the bulb; is it possible that it is a Daubenya? Best regards, Lisa From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Daubenya bub Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 22:02:16 +0000 Looks more like an albuca bulb. A very old D. aurea bulb would not be larger than a medium sized walnut. Leaves in daubenya seedlings do not resemble an adut plant's ones. They are narrow and only with years grow broader. From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <002201cf2e88$2b4e3790$81eaa6b0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 16:07:38 -0600 Thanks Alberto. How long does Daubenya take to flower, generally? -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 4:02 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Daubenya bulb Looks more like an albuca bulb. A very old D. aurea bulb would not be larger than a medium sized walnut. Leaves in daubenya seedlings do not resemble an adut plant's ones. They are narrow and only with years grow broader. From macjohn@mac.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: John Willis Subject: Ferraria ferrariola blooming Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 17:11:25 -0500 Well, I've not got the most sensitive of noses, but to me it's more clove-like and definitely not offensive. I can imagine it would really be fun to see these in the wild... On Feb 20, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > Well bloomed, sir!!! Ferraria are fascinating with all those frills & > folds in the flowers. How is the aroma of F. ferrariola? Some of the > Ferraria I've smelled are pungent! > > Dennis in Cincinnati (who wants a greenhouse too!) > > > > On Wed, Feb 19, 2014 at 10:46 PM, John Willis wrote: > >> I wanted to share the first images of my Ferraria ferrariola blooming at >> http://macgardens.org/?p=3887. I've salivated over the PBS images of >> Ferrarias since I first completed my greenhouse and I'm delighted to >> finally have one in bloom. I thought it was only fitting that I also >> include a shameless plug for the PBS in my posting. >> >> Gardens get wilder every day ... >> MacGardens >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day … MacGardens From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 00:43:48 +0000 It depends on your conditions. For Bay Area conditions they are reported to flower in its fifth year. But it is a tough, long lived bulb and does well with an 8 in. pot for years. From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 20 Feb 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <00df01cf2ea4$75b31aa0$61194fe0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2014 19:30:09 -0600 Ok, thanks again. All of my bulbs (Hyacinthaceae & Amaryllidaceae) are greenhouse kept. So; I think that would slow the development. Also- based on other info from previous posts; I think I need to repot into deeper pots when they're dormant. This summer was the first year that I unpotted most of the bulbs. I did find it odd that some bulbs sat so low in the pot. I didn't realize they moved to a location they like. The square pots I'm using are not very deep at all. Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 6:44 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Daubenya bulb It depends on your conditions. For Bay Area conditions they are reported to flower in its fifth year. But it is a tough, long lived bulb and does well with an 8 in. pot for years. From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <4FCACA63-A255-4C46-A043-BB0851E8AC93@gmail.com> From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Caucasian snowdrop seeds Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 08:13:55 -0800 If someone can help Alexander find Caucasian snowdrop seeds please contact him directly at his personal email. He has already searched our Sources page on the wiki. Begin forwarded message: > From: Alexander Ponce > Hi, do you have any idea, Where could I buy Caucasian snowdrop > seeds? I have been looking around but no one seems to have any. From darren@fairhaven45.plus.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Darren Sleep Subject: Leontice Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:00:43 +0000 This is my first post to the list and I hope I get it right! Jane, I can offer a little advice (more of a warning) based on my mistakes. My first experience with Leontice sown in normal 10cm deep pots resulted in good germination but no tubers. After experimenting again with deep pots I came to the conclusion that the seedlings seek considerable depth before starting tuber formation and if the stem that grows downward to form the tuber encounters 'air pruning' at a drainage hole before they reach a depth they like then no tuber is formed. Even with 20cm deep pots standing on sand I found tubers formed partially extended from the drainage holes and I had to cut the pot to release them. My advice at this stage is that if you sowed the seed in a shorter pot you should stand it partially plunged in a bigger pot of sand or similar. Then look in the bigger pot for your tubers once top growth dies back. Darren Sleep Lancaster UK From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <002701cf2f2f$7a576530$6f062f90$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 10:05:15 -0800 Lisa wrote: >> I recently dug up this bulb; doubting it's a Daubenya. I'm not sure. The bits of leaves at the top don't look like Daubenya (a mature bulb has flat leaves). But the color and shape of the bulb could be a match for Daubenya. Did the bulb have some thin papery bracts or skins around it when you dug it up? Mine have a lot of that. If it is a Daubenya, don't leave it out of the ground for too long; they do not like that. In my experience, they are relatively slow-growing and can take years to bloom. Good luck! The flowers are worth the wait. Mike San Jose, CA PS: The Daubenyas that I have grow fairly shallowly, with the bulb close to the surface but a lot of room below for roots. From bulot@cerege.fr Fri, 21 Feb 2014 21:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <08a15f9630c6424210a83f00280f399a@imap.osupytheas.fr> From: Luc Bulot Subject: Problem with Iris danfordiae Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 19:16:59 +0100 Hi all, Many thanks to the whole of you whom answered to my question... I shall take a few picture of the damages on the flowers and will post them so each and everyone of you can see... Well we do have sparrows, slugs and cutworm !!!... Damage seems to occur only at night so I would rather rule out sparrows... Slug are not numerous in this rather dry part of SE France, and I am using slug killer as soon as the bulb buds show off. I never had any damage on the stems or leaves (neither on Iris or surrounding plants such as Arums and Anemone) I would therefore rather suspect cutworm that often see when digging new beds... Adults are very common here in summer time as well... I am happy to be back and more talkative to the list to which I contributed quite a lot a few years ago... I had to live without garden between 2009 and 2012 which explain why I went silent for so long... By the way... I can't remember if the list accepts attachment to mails... Can you please let me know... I had the pleasure to see today that two I. reticulata (or hybrid involving reticulata) bloomed among the I. danfordiae (and fortunately not being eaten)... I would appreciate to confirm the identification... Best regards, Luc Le 2014-02-17 19:28, Jude Haverington a écrit : > Wow - never knew that - or witnessed that - interesting. Thanks! > > > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 1:26 PM, Jim McKenney > wrote: > >> Jude, sparrows are little devils during the late winter when the first >> tender, tasty new flowers pop up. They really go for crocuses, and >> Iris >> danfordiae probably looks and tastes to them like a crocus. >> Jim McKenney >> >> >> >> On Monday, February 17, 2014 12:09 PM, Jude Haverington < >> tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Sparrows ? I've never seen them feed upon flowers. If this is a >> possibility, then I learned something new! >> >> >> On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 12:06 PM, Jim McKenney >> wrote: >> >> > Sparrows would be my guess. >> > The commonest sparrow here is the so-called English or House Sparrow >> > which, as it turns out, is technically a Weaver Finch and not closely >> > related to the other birds native here which are called sparrows. >> > >> > Jim McKenney >> > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Song Sparrows >> > and White-throated Sparrows are daily visitors to the crumb table at this >> > time of year. >> > >> > >> > >> > On Monday, February 17, 2014 11:48 AM, Jude Haverington < >> > tylus.seklos@gmail.com> wrote: >> > >> > Hi, >> > I'm not sure about your part of the country, but insects often eat plant >> > leaves and flowers, and it could be a lot of different things. >> > Additionally, it could even be something like rabbits, snails or slugs. >> > You haven't included any details on the type of damage you are seeing. >> That >> > would be helpful. >> > >> > >> > On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 5:04 AM, Luc Bulot wrote: >> > >> > > Hi all, >> > > >> > > My recently planted Iris danfordiae went real fine and the flowers buds >> > > started to bloom about a week ago... >> > > >> > > Unfortunately some pest seems to eat the flowers as soon as they start >> > > to open... >> > > >> > > Did anybody experienced that ? >> > > Any idea what kind of pest it can be ? >> > > >> > > Forgot to say that I am living in SE France... >> > > >> > > Best regards, >> > > >> > > Luc >> > > _______________________________________________ >> > > pbs mailing list >> > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > >> > > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > pbs mailing list >> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> > _______________________________________________ >> > pbs mailing list >> > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 21 Feb 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1620917433.23254.1393006776490.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j17> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Leontice Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 19:19:36 +0100 (CET) That is true. They do grow incredibly deep in the wild.50cms is not uncommon. Mark > Message du 21/02/14 19:08 > De : "Darren Sleep" > A : pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Leontice > > This is my first post to the list and I hope I get it right! > > Jane, > > I can offer a little advice (more of a warning) based on my mistakes. > My first experience with Leontice sown in normal 10cm deep pots > resulted in good germination but no tubers. After experimenting again > with deep pots I came to the conclusion that the seedlings seek > considerable depth before starting tuber formation and if the stem > that grows downward to form the tuber encounters 'air pruning' at a > drainage hole before they reach a depth they like then no tuber is > formed. Even with 20cm deep pots standing on sand I found tubers > formed partially extended from the drainage holes and I had to cut the > pot to release them. My advice at this stage is that if you sowed the > seed in a shorter pot you should stand it partially plunged in a > bigger pot of sand or similar. Then look in the bigger pot for your > tubers once top growth dies back. > > > Darren Sleep > Lancaster UK > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nickplummer@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: Managing Sprekelia howardii seedlings in dormancy Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 14:32:21 -0500 Last August, I obtained some Sprekelia howardii seed from the exchange and manage to germinate three seedlings. They grew through the winter and have finally decided to go dormant. I assume the bulbs are still fairly tiny, but I don't want to dump them out of their pots to check. Should I let them go completely dry or keep them slightly moist while in dormancy? How long should I wait until I resume regular watering? Thanks. Nick -- Nicholas Plummer Durham, North Carolina, USA. Zone 7 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 21 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Caucasian snowdrop seeds Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 11:56:11 -0800 I have written to Alex Ponce about his search for "Caucasian snowdrop" seeds, with the bad news that Galanthus seeds are not generally sold because of their short viability. I also mentioned that if what he is seeking is Galanthus caucasicus, its name has been changed to Galanthus alpinus. A huge pot of Galanthus alpinus was displayed at our NARGS meeting this Tuesday. Norm Kalbfleisch and Neil Matteucci rescued it from a nearby garden where it had grown for decades. I was also given this plant from an old Portland garden years ago. It is a large, vigorous plant with broad, glaucous leaves. It seems to love the Pacific Northwest. It probably got here among the thousands of wild-collected snowdrop bulbs that were sold through Dutch bulb catalogs years ago. (We will now hear from cynical correspondents who will tell us that wild-collected snowdrops still enter gardens, though circuitously.) If you want to grow Galanthus from seed you need to get the seed just as it matures (the capsules turn yellowish before they open) and plant it right away. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 08:13 AM 2/21/2014, you wrote: >If someone can help Alexander find Caucasian snowdrop seeds please >contact him directly at his personal email. >He has already searched our Sources page on the wiki. > >Begin forwarded message: > > > From: Alexander Ponce > > > Hi, do you have any idea, Where could I buy Caucasian snowdrop > > seeds? I have been looking around but no one seems to have any. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 21 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Leontice Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 12:01:37 -0800 Darren wrote, >My first experience with Leontice sown in normal 10cm deep pots >resulted in good germination but no tubers. After experimenting again >with deep pots I came to the conclusion that the seedlings seek >considerable depth before starting tuber formation and if the stem >that grows downward to form the tuber encounters 'air pruning' at a >drainage hole before they reach a depth they like then no tuber is >formed. Even with 20cm deep pots standing on sand I found tubers >formed partially extended from the drainage holes and I had to cut the >pot to release them. My advice at this stage is that if you sowed the >seed in a shorter pot you should stand it partially plunged in a >bigger pot of sand or similar. That's great advice. I do use 10 cm deep seed pots (the size known as 4-inch in the USA, though they are closer to 3.5 inches square), so I will immediately plunge the Leontice seedling pots in gallon pots of sand. My smaller pots have 8 drainage holes, so the plants should be able to escape. Some other kinds of bulbs do this too, particularly Calochortus and Erythronium, but they don't fail to make bulbs the first year as far as I have noticed. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 21 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <364389173.26465.1393014152222.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j17> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Caucasian snowdrop seeds Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 21:22:32 +0100 (CET) Dear Jane, I too have written to Alex Ponce, asking the same question. Galanthus caucasicus is now Galanthus elwesii var. monostictus. The north eastern populations of G. alpinus are now considered to be G. koenenianus. This solves the riddle for me when visiting this population a few years ago. Mark > Message du 21/02/14 21:02 > De : "Jane McGary" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Caucasian snowdrop seeds > > I have written to Alex Ponce about his search for "Caucasian > snowdrop" seeds, with the bad news that Galanthus seeds are not > generally sold because of their short viability. I also mentioned > that if what he is seeking is Galanthus caucasicus, its name has been > changed to Galanthus alpinus. > > A huge pot of Galanthus alpinus was displayed at our NARGS meeting > this Tuesday. Norm Kalbfleisch and Neil Matteucci rescued it from a > nearby garden where it had grown for decades. I was also given this > plant from an old Portland garden years ago. It is a large, vigorous > plant with broad, glaucous leaves. It seems to love the Pacific > Northwest. It probably got here among the thousands of wild-collected > snowdrop bulbs that were sold through Dutch bulb catalogs years ago. > (We will now hear from cynical correspondents who will tell us that > wild-collected snowdrops still enter gardens, though circuitously.) > > If you want to grow Galanthus from seed you need to get the seed just > as it matures (the capsules turn yellowish before they open) and > plant it right away. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > At 08:13 AM 2/21/2014, you wrote: > >If someone can help Alexander find Caucasian snowdrop seeds please > >contact him directly at his personal email. > >He has already searched our Sources page on the wiki. > > > >Begin forwarded message: > > > > > From: Alexander Ponce > > > > > Hi, do you have any idea, Where could I buy Caucasian snowdrop > > > seeds? I have been looking around but no one seems to have any. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From btankers@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: any Korean language members? Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 15:15:32 -0600 Hi Mary Sue: I have a volunteer who is translating our Garden Guide app plant descriptions into Korean for the Chicago Botanic Garden. I am forwarding this email message to her in the hopes that she can assist you in contacting the owner of this website and removing your images that are being used without your permission. Hope your drought breaks soon. Local weather guru's have linked your drought to our polar vortex's. Not good for plants (or people) in either location. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Director of Living Plant Documentation Chicago Botanic Garden On Tue, Feb 18, 2014 at 9:20 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > When I was a member of the wiki team, we often tried to get websites > to remove photos lifted from the wiki even though we realized we'd > never catch them all and communicating to ask to remove photos is a > challenge. > > Yesterday I found this link for Sparaxis and recognized a lot of my > photos along with others from our Sparaxis page. > http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=wnslazgz&logNo=110045454743# > > Even with Google translator I couldn't figure out if there was a way > to comment and ask them to take the photos off since they did not ask > permission to use them and are not crediting where they came from. Is > there anyone on this list who can help with this? > > There may be other photos from our wiki. I didn't look through all > the bulb pages. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From eagle.85@verizon.net Fri, 21 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <12304F93-05C5-4236-BF30-D860517FB887@verizon.net> From: douglas westfall Subject: Email address wanted Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 15:52:12 -0800 Does anyone reading this have an email address for Anders Bo Petersen in Copenhagen, Denmark? Doug Westfall From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <530801AF.5080808@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Email address wanted Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 14:47:27 +1300 I don't know his email address but he is on Facebook. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 22/02/2014 12:52 p.m., douglas westfall wrote: > Does anyone reading this have an email address for Anders Bo Petersen > in Copenhagen, Denmark? > > Doug Westfall > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From gardenstreet184@yahoo.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393036318.74138.YahooMailNeo@web141605.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: "C.J. Teevan" Subject: Email address wanted Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:31:58 -0800 (PST) Facebook as well as LinkedIn. On Friday, February 21, 2014 8:57 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: I don't know his email address but he is on Facebook. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 22/02/2014 12:52 p.m., douglas westfall wrote: > Does anyone reading this have an email address for Anders Bo Petersen > in Copenhagen, Denmark? > > Doug Westfall > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Fri, 21 Feb 2014 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <2BB8C4F3-6B41-4096-987D-9576EB8E6562@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Eucomis seedling needs identification Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 18:37:42 -0800 Jyl Tuck has sent photos of a mystery Eucomis seedling for PBS to help identify. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#eucomis Jyl writes: "I started Eucomis bicolor from seed and some bulbs started flowering 3 summers ago. But there had always been a couple of bulbs that appeared different. Last summer I stuck all the bulbs in 1 pot to get a good show and one of the 'different' bulbs flowered. My Eucomis autumnalis and bicolor flowered end of July into August when the 'different' bulb started. As you can see in this picture (bicolor left) the 'different' bulbs (right) leaves are very long, not wavy, with no spots on leaves or stem of flower. I got a fair number of seed from the plant too which should not have crossed. The seeds has sprouted and are growing. Only got a couple seed from the other Eucomis which did not sprout. The way the flowers are arranged on the stem is different and about 18-20 inches tall." - Gastil From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 21 Feb 2014 21:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Caucasian snowdrop seeds Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2014 20:26:19 -0800 Mark Brown wrote, >Galanthus caucasicus is now Galanthus elwesii var. monostictus. The >north eastern populations of G. alpinus are now considered to be G. >koenenianus. This solves the riddle for me when visiting this >population a few years ago. I was following the discussion in "The Genus Galanthus" by Aaron P. Davis (Timber Press, 1999). I didn't know there had been a revision since that publication, sorry. On p. 146 of that book, Davis notes "the larger forms of G. elwesii (often sold as G. caucasicus), which make very good garden plants." Davis reports the publication of G. elwesii Hook. f. var. monostictus by P. D. Sell and F. Murrell in 1996. It appears from his abbreviated list that the name G. caucasicus was applied to garden plants of G. elwesii in Stern's classic "Snowdrops and Snowflakes." Davis's discussion of his placement of G. caucasicus (Baker) Grossh. [non Stern] appears on pp. 116-117. It is complex, but it explains just how he decided that "The name Galanthus alpinus should now be used to represent the glaucous-leaved snowdrop of the Caucasus." Mark, could you please give us the citation for the taxonomy you mentioned? Thanks! Incidentally, the inquiry to the website that started this discussion was from someone who wants to extract a reportedly medicinal compound from Galanthus, not from a gardener. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From darren@fairhaven45.plus.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 02:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1EB67FF1-173B-46C6-9AB5-DD83BF2ABC1B@fairhaven45.plus.com> From: Darren Sleep Subject: : Leontice Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 09:25:13 +0000 Jane wrote: "Some other kinds of bulbs do this too, particularly Calochortus and Erythronium, but they don't fail to make bulbs the first year as far as I have noticed." This is my experience also. These bulbs seem willing to form bulbs whenever they 'realise' no further downward growth is possible. Some Australian terrestrial orchids do likewise. So I expected Leontice to be similar but it appears they really do want that extra depth. Sorry - haven't worked out how to quote properly yet and the sun is sining (a rare event this winter) so I want to get out in the garden! Darren Sleep darren@fairhaven45.plus.com From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Sat, 22 Feb 2014 02:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1106080814.6701.1393062742079.JavaMail.www@wwinf1k21> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Caucasian snowdrop seeds Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 10:52:22 +0100 (CET) Dear Jane and All, My source is from the snowdrop monograph (Matt Bishop et al), published by Griffin Press and the study (2003) provided by Dr Zonnenveld. I know that some taxonomists still consider caucasicus a good species. But I am not sure if any material of athenticated caucasian origin has been part of these studies. I have had a reply from Mr Ponce-Bonano and he includes G. woronowii for sources of Galantamine alkaloid. I am a bit worried to be part of a self-medication scheme like this. Mark > Message du 22/02/14 05:28 > De : "Jane McGary"   > Objet : Re: [pbs] Caucasian snowdrop seeds " I was following the discussion in "The Genus Galanthus" by Aaron P. > Davis (Timber Press, 1999). I didn't know there had been a revision > since that publication, sorry. On p. 146 of that book, > Davis notes "the larger forms of G. elwesii (often sold as G. > caucasicus), which make very good garden plants." Davis reports the > publication of G. elwesii Hook. f. var. monostictus by P. D. Sell and > F. Murrell in 1996. It appears from his abbreviated list that the > name G. caucasicus was applied to garden plants of G. elwesii in > Stern's classic "Snowdrops and Snowflakes." > > Davis's discussion of his placement of G. caucasicus (Baker) Grossh. > [non Stern] appears on pp. 116-117. It is complex, but it explains > just how he decided that "The name Galanthus alpinus should now be > used to represent the glaucous-leaved snowdrop of the Caucasus." > > Mark, could you please give us the citation for the taxonomy you > mentioned? Thanks! > > Incidentally, the inquiry to the website that started this discussion > was from someone who wants to extract a reportedly medicinal compound > from Galanthus, not from a gardener." _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From leo@possi.org Sat, 22 Feb 2014 09:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Cyanella seedling advice Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 08:45:57 -0800 (PST) Rimmer asked regarding completely submersing aphid-infested plants in water to kill the insects: > how long would you drown the pot? I haven't experimented. I've done it for 12-24 hours for mealy bugs on cactus. I fortunately have not had any bulb pests other than curve-billed thrashers and canines. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <7CDDFAE9-56C9-4F1A-BC62-78FF08C830DB@gmail.com> From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 11:21:44 -0800 Another request for a source from the contact form. It must be that season. "Hi I would like to know where i could buy one or two bulbs as it is the first time i have seen this plant. Kind Regards Gavin" gavin.sowerby@yahoo.co.uk He has seen the Sources page on the pbs website. From markemazer@gmail.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 13:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:29:49 -0500 "i could buy one" Oh please. Grow it from readily available seed. Only then, would one deserve, to view this spectacular plant, not in it's native habitat. M On Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 2:21 PM, M. Gastil-Buhl wrote: > Another request for a source from the contact form. It must be that > season. > > "Hi I would like to know where i could buy one or two bulbs as it is > the first time i have seen this plant. Kind Regards Gavin" > gavin.sowerby@yahoo.co.uk > > He has seen the Sources page on the pbs website. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ksayce@willapabay.org Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <5B4681A3-27BD-4C4B-A35C-D54B31E63439@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: legacy snowdrops Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 14:51:18 -0800 Not as interesting as the ongoing discussion on seeds and species, but related to it, I found a population of snowdrops blooming along a highway near Astoria, Oregon. Not the old homestead flowers I found several years ago, by the way. This group of bulbs is behind a dike on a river, the flowers are singles and were just opening a few days ago. I will get photos next week, and post a link for this group to see them. My question is this: is there any interest in bulbs being sent to the bulb exchange? If so, I will collect a few when they are dormant in late spring. Cheers, Kathleen From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <003501cf3022$39a0e220$ace2a660$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 17:02:56 -0600 Sorry for slow response. No papery skin or bracts. I'm going to order more seed & try it again. I'll watch for this characteristic. Yes, the flowers look really neat. I've been looking for bulbs of this species to no avail. I've only found D. zeyheri in bulb form. Best regards, Lisa -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Michael Mace Sent: Friday, February 21, 2014 12:05 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Daubenya bulb Lisa wrote: >> I recently dug up this bulb; doubting it's a Daubenya. I'm not sure. The bits of leaves at the top don't look like Daubenya (a mature bulb has flat leaves). But the color and shape of the bulb could be a match for Daubenya. Did the bulb have some thin papery bracts or skins around it when you dug it up? Mine have a lot of that. If it is a Daubenya, don't leave it out of the ground for too long; they do not like that. In my experience, they are relatively slow-growing and can take years to bloom. Good luck! The flowers are worth the wait. Mike San Jose, CA PS: The Daubenyas that I have grow fairly shallowly, with the bulb close to the surface but a lot of room below for roots. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 23:03:11 +0000 Besides, it is not the easiest South African corm or bulb, from seed chances of adaptation to one's conditions are better. From voltaire@islandnet.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <978BE43A-4662-46E4-9FC8-8425746289EA@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: legacy snowdrops Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 16:32:38 -0800 In order to identify the species of a snowdrop, you don't really need to see the flowers at all, as the most important parts are the leaves. The colour - gray or green, shiny or matt, with a pale stripe down the middle The way the leaves emerge from the soil - are they flat against each other, wrapped around each other, or are the leaf edges bent? There are many more leaf qualities to take note of and photograph, but these should be enough to i.d. the most-likely species. Diane Whitehead Victoria, British Columbia, Canada On 2014-02-22, at 2:51 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > I found a population of snowdrops blooming along a highway near Astoria, Oregon. This group of bulbs is behind a dike on a river, the flowers are singles and were just opening a few days ago. I will get photos next week, and post a link for this group to see them. > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat, 22 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 00:36:08 +0000 The flowers are rudimentary, it is the colored bracts surrounding them that are spectacular. They are variable in shape but the best look like a small Darwin tulip sitting on the ground. They are also quite long lasting and set seed easily, seeds are largish, round, black. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 22 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: : Leontice Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 16:48:57 -0800 I took the advice kindly passed on in this forum and plunged my pot of Leontice seedlings, which had emerged so recently they still had seed coats attached to some of them, in a gallon pot of gritty soil. Sure enough, there was a root already dropping out of one of the drain holes of the seed pot. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From guylep@hotmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: guy stephane andre l'eplattenier Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 08:19:12 +0000 Hi, 10 hesperantha vaginata are going to bloom in my garden in southern Catalunya / Spain... they come again every year and I am looking forward to seeing them, it is such a black and yellow show! I had the first bulbs from Lauw's at Bulbargence many yars ago, but these were grown from their seeds ( or seeds from Silverhill? I don't remember), they do well, they produce seeds and the only delicate point is that I have to water them a bit when winter is too dry, common problem in the kind of med. climate we have here ( Rains in autumn and spring with a dry windy gap in between...) The other point is that soil is basically clay/ lime/ stone and now I always put some sand under the bulbs ( and other plants) I try here... Guy PS : If I get enough and you do not need too many, I can keep you some seeds for next BX > From: ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sat, 22 Feb 2014 23:03:11 +0000 > Subject: Re: [pbs] source for Hesperantha vaginata > > Besides, it is not the easiest South African corm or bulb, from seed chances of adaptation to one's conditions are better. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 05:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <004b01cf3093$45fe4050$d1fac0f0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: Daubenya bulb Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 06:32:10 -0600 Thanks again :} -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Alberto Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2014 6:36 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Daubenya bulb The flowers are rudimentary, it is the colored bracts surrounding them that are spectacular. They are variable in shape but the best look like a small Darwin tulip sitting on the ground. They are also quite long lasting and set seed easily, seeds are largish, round, black. From ruiyyang@yahoo.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1393172425.98110.YahooMailNeo@web163401.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ruiyang Yang Subject: Request Paramongaia pollen Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 08:20:25 -0800 (PST) Hi, Everyone: Just notice my Paramongaia is sending up a scape, I am wondering if any one has pollen available. Mine is received as summer growing one, but I have been growing it in the winter as it came from South Hamisphere. Thanks very much for help. Ray From leo@possi.org Sun, 23 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <82c63346c257f17424ef4c1468accd2c.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 11:26:29 -0800 (PST) Gavin asked about Hesperantha vaginata. Seed is readily available and easy to sprout in the correct season. Bulbs are not readily available. Grow it from seed. I got my seed from Silverhill Seeds in Capetown, South Africa. They ship to the UK. My one remaining bulb did not return this year, but I have seed from it. There are a lot of UK gardeners who grow winter-rainfall bulbs. I would think this is not an easy plant to keep alive in a cool damp greenhouse, so you should talk to some local growers about it. Leo Martin From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 23 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <18096247.117961.1393183823626.JavaMail.root@vznit170176> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 13:30:23 -0600 (CST) You can find the bulbs here: http://www.thebulbman.com/index.html Looks like he's scaling back. Last year he will be selling. Arnold New Jersey From leo@possi.org Sun, 23 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Growing under lights Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 11:50:38 -0800 (PST) Tim wrote > I don't see how hydroponics can be certified organic since organic > fertilizers are real no-no's in hydroponics for reasons of sanitation. I don't understand the whole organic thing anyway. Almost everybody thinks "organic produce" is grown without pesticides. Au contraire, mon frere. One can look up the California "organic" regulations easily online. "Organic" produce is treated with "organic" pesticides, some of which have the same neurotoxic mode of action as "non-organic" pesticides. Because many "organic" pesticides are less effective than "non-organic" pesticides, often more must be used. I have this information from California farmers who grow "certified organic" produce for the California market. > ... sodium vapor lamps still give the most bang for the buck, > factoring in initial cost. LEDs have the advantage of low electricity use and very long life expectancy. They can be selected to emit only desired wavelengths so as not to waste electricty on wavelengths the plants don't use. LEDs are far too expensive for most hobbyists now, other than, perhaps, people growing certain crops indoors who don't want the electric company notifying the police about how high the electric bill is, or who don't want to attract police helicopters with infrared scanners flying over their neighborhoods searching for attics that are much warmer than surrounding ones. LEDs will come down in price and I predict serious indoor growers - the ones who care much more about the health of their plants rather than the beauty of the setup - will be using pink and blue LED arrays before long. I have used a high-pressure sodium light on a fixture with a motor that moved it back and forth slowly over the growing area. The bulbs run EXTREMELY hot, dangerously so. A third-degree burn would result immediately from touching a bulb, and it will also probably explode if touched while illuminated, showering extremely hot glass over one's body and plants. Cool bulbs should be handled with gloves, since oils from the hand will burn when the bulb is lit. A little bit of water on the bulb - as might occur if spritzing plants with a water bottle - will also result in an explosion. I had one bulb explode in a winter basement setup for no reason I could determine. The noise was audible upstairs; glass burned many plants and also burned holes in nearby carpet. Had there been drapes there might have been a house fire. If I had children I would never use such lights unless in a room with an automatically closing and locking door. Sodium lights draw a very large amount of electricty, require a special transformer, and are expensive to buy and run. They heat the room they illuminate much more than do fluorescent lights of any design; while perhaps advantageous for some plants, this is not desirable for winter-growing plants. Sodium bulbs also diminish in light output over time and must be replaced regularly. Fluorescent tubes are much less dangerous and work well. Considering explosions and replacing bulbs / tubes yearly or more frequently, I don't believe fluorescents are more expensive in the long run. They are readily available at any shop that carries mundane fixtures. I doubt high-intensity sodium lights will be used for growing plants much longer. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From teck11@embarqmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <003401cf30dd$c60b2ac0$52218040$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Growing under lights Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 16:25:27 -0500 Sodium lights draw a very large amount of electricty, require a special transformer, and are expensive to buy and run. They heat the room they illuminate much more than do fluorescent lights of any design; while perhaps advantageous for some plants, this is not desirable for winter-growing plants. Sodium bulbs also diminish in light output over time and must be replaced regularly. I was going to let this go, but most of this paragraph is just plain false. Sodium vapor lights put out far more usable light per watt than fluorescents and less heat per watt than fluorescents (as a corollary), although they do burn hotter than fluorescents. Needless to say, they heat the room less than fluorescents for the same amount of useable light. Fluorescent tubes also diminish in light output over time as does every lighting fixture I know of. Fluorescents also require a special transformer that goes by the same name (ballast) as those for sodium vapor lights. Both can be driven by "electronic" current limiting devices instead of ballasts, saving some wasted heat. The reason they use ballasts is they are plasmas and will exhibit thermal runaway (as will mercury vapors, metal halides and LEDs) in the absence of current limiting devices . Tungsten and tungsten halogen both have negative feedback (increased resistance) with heat, requiring no ballast, and both are black body resistance emitters rather than emitting in special wavelengths. Tungsten halogen is more efficient than tungsten because it can burn much hotter since a halogen gas mixture scrubs the emitted tungsten off the bulb surface and re-deposits it on the hottest part of the filament, building up the thin parts of the filament and extending its lifetime. As this is a finely engineered phenomenon, they should never be used with a dimmer (as is true with the ballast type lamps). I was going to replenish my fluorescents when I saw 70 watt sodium vapors at Lowes for $42 each and there was no way I could match that economy with good fluorescent grow lights. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 16:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: source for Hesperantha vaginata Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:28:41 +0000 You are right, Leo, part of its distribution in the wild is in semidesertic Karroo. The amount of dark brown varies and some forms may be plain yellow. From ramptons1@bigpond.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 20:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Quinn" Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 12:39:38 +1100 Hello all Is there an online list of winter growing and summer growing gladiolus? If not can someone do this? Joy --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 05:51:21 +0000 It would be useful , although not an easy task for it will have to include the abundant synonyms. From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:09:17 +0100 Better to have a small list where items and synonyms can be added to start with than no list at all. And off-course best to have this information available on the pbs wiki site. Aad > On 24 feb. 2014, at 06:51, "Alberto" wrote: > > It would be useful , although not an easy task for it will have to include the abundant synonyms. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From makimoff76@gmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: mark akimoff Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:16:34 -0800 The silver hill seed catalogue lists quite a few species and some notes are made about winter/summer growers. Might help for a start. Mark On Feb 23, 2014 8:07 PM, "John Quinn" wrote: > Hello all > > Is there an online list of winter growing and summer growing gladiolus? > If not can someone do this? > > Joy > > > --- > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > http://www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From randysgarden@gmail.com Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:45:36 -0800 A good resource for African species, with synonymy, are the Goldblatt/Manning books. For the other species in Mediterranean climate areas winter growing is the usual rule. On Sun, Feb 23, 2014 at 10:16 PM, mark akimoff wrote: > The silver hill seed catalogue lists quite a few species and some notes are > made about winter/summer growers. Might help for a start. > Mark > On Feb 23, 2014 8:07 PM, "John Quinn" wrote: > > > Hello all > > > > Is there an online list of winter growing and summer growing gladiolus? > > If not can someone do this? > > > > Joy > > > > > > --- > > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > > protection is active. > > http://www.avast.com > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- From ramptons1@bigpond.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 02:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Quinn" Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:57:31 +1100 That's my problem and part of the reason for the request. I don't have the books. and I don't know the Med species by name. Joy - A good resource for African species, with synonymy, are the Goldblatt/Manning books. For the other species in Mediterranean climate areas winter growing is the usual rule. On Sun, Feb 23, 2014 at 10:16 PM, mark akimoff wrote: > The silver hill seed catalogue lists quite a few species and some > notes are made about winter/summer growers. Might help for a start. > Mark > On Feb 23, 2014 8:07 PM, "John Quinn" wrote: > > > Hello all > > > > Is there an online list of winter growing and summer growing gladiolus? > > If not can someone do this? > > > > Joy > > > > > > --- > > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > > protection is active. > > http://www.avast.com > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From cvschalkwyk@lantic.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 02:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <530B0D8E.3020106@lantic.net> From: Christiaan van Schalkwyk Subject: Smoke-water and bulb growth Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:14:54 +0200 Hi In the new "South African Journal of Botany" of March 2014, there are two articles related to smoke treatment. The following links should go to the abstracts of the articles. Unfortunately I do not have access to the complete articles: Smoke--water stimulates secondary metabolites during /in vitro/ seedling development in /Tulbaghia/ species http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629913004687 and Synthesis, X-ray structure determination and germination studies on some smoke-derived karrikins http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629913004894 Enjoy Christiaan van Schalkwyk Upington, South Africa On Jan 2, 2014, at 4:28 PM, William Hoffmann wrote: >> I have seen multiple posts on this list about using smoke water to >> stimulate germination of certain species. Does anyone use it to >> enhance growth after germination? I recently came across an >> interesting article in which commercial onion seedlings were watered >> regularly with smoke water. It had an impressive effect on growth, >> compared to plants that did not receive smoke water. After 175 days, >> the plants receiving smoke water had more than twice the bulb mass of >> the controls. If this response is common among geophytes, it would be >> quite a benefit. Have any of you tried this? >> >> The article citation is Kulkarni et al, Effect of smoke-water and a >> smoke-isolated butenolide on the growth and genotoxicity of commercial >> onion, Scientia Horticulturae, Volume 124, Issue 4, 1 May 2010, Pages >> 434-439. >> >> BTW, I am a new member of PBS. So far I don't grow any bulbs that are >> particularly interesting or difficult - mostly just easily purchased >> things. >> >> Bill >> >> -- >> William A. Hoffmann >> Associate Professor >> Department of Plant Biology >> North Carolina State University >> Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612 >> Phone: (919) 513-7668 >> http://www4.ncsu.edu/~wahoffma/labhome/LabPage.html >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2014.0.4259 / Virus Database: 3658/6970 - Release Date: 01/02/14 > > From cvschalkwyk@lantic.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 02:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <530B0FCF.1090208@lantic.net> From: Christiaan van Schalkwyk Subject: New Moraea species Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:24:31 +0200 Hi all, and especially those interrested in Moraea's (or should that be Moraeas?) In the "South African Journal of Botany", Volume 91, March 2014, Pages 75--83 there is an article by Goldblatt and Manning titled: Taxonomy of the /Moraea saxicola/ complex (Iridaceae: Iridoideae) of arid, western southern Africa, with the new species, /M. acocksii/, /M. geminifolia/, /M. quartzicola/ and /M. teretifolia. / Here is a//link to the abstract. I do not have access to the full article./ / http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0254629913004961 Enjoy Christiaan van Schalkwyk Upington, South Africa From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 12:07:05 +0000 The Eurasian species are not a problem, they are a handful and all winter growers. From msittner@mcn.org Mon, 24 Feb 2014 08:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <20140224160226.82447E8CE8@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 08:02:15 -0800 Hi Joy, Gladiolus is a very large genus and the names have been changed around a lot over the years. You could start a list by finding and listing all the "accepted" names on The Plant List: http://www.theplantlist.org/tpl/search?q=Gladiolus The "accepted" ones (not everyone agrees) are in bold. Then try looking on the Silverhill Site: http://www.silverhillseeds.co.za/ByName.asp?SearchText=gladiolus and make a note of the ones that they say are summer growing. The rest are winter growing. We have quite a lot of information on the African Gladious on the wiki thanks a lot to Rod and Rachel Saunders and Cameron McMaster who have supplied a lot of photos. But there are wiki places pages that would allow you to make a note quickly as well. All of the glads listed on these pages will be winter growing: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Namaqualand http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/BokkeveldPlateau http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Boskloof http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Roggeveld http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Drayton All of the glads listed on these pages will be summer growing: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Maclear http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NaudesNek The miscellaneous wiki page has the European ones that people have provided photos for so you could add those to the winter growing list: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MiscellaneousGladiolus Also if you went through the wiki Gladiolus pages you will find a lot of them described by where they are found. You could click on the species in the table on the main page you have not yet identified. You have to know something about the geography of the various locations as the listings don't always say winter or summer growing, but usually say where that species is distributed. Overberg would be winter growing as Cameron provided a lot of photos of that. If you find more locations for the Gladiolus missing after that in the search here: http://www.ville-ge.ch/musinfo/bd/cjb/africa/recherche.php?langue=an The African species are listed here : TA = Tropical Africa Area (EPFAT Area, country-based, south of the Sahara, complementary to the following) SA = Southern Africa Area (South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Lesotho, Swaziland) NA = North Africa (Mauritania, Morocco, Canary Isl., Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Madeira) MA = Madagascar (Malagasy Republic) You can limit your search to one or more of those. It you chose SA and clicked on each species you didn't have after you had done the rest you will find a map and a location. WC (Western Cape) will all be winter growing for instance. If this sounds like a lot of work, yes it would be. Everything that has been added to the wiki represents work by some volunteer. But it would be a valuable addition to the wiki and I'm sure the current wiki administrators would be happy to add it. Mary Sue From bob.hoel@comcast.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <83D29DE9-86C2-4E31-AC59-C53E1D0C9A42@comcast.net> From: Robert Hoel Subject: Dormancy in Ornithogalums Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:31:03 -0600 I have a pot full of Ornithogalum longibracteatum bulbs that need to be divided. It is so crowded with bulbs that I am not sure how much soil is left. None is visible. I assume this genus has a dormancy period where it stops growing but does not die back. If so, what time of year does this happen. long day? short day? Please correct me if I am misinterpreting what I am seeing. When it is dormant I will divide and send bulbs and bulblets to the Exchange. Or at least I will when the danger of freezing in transit has passed. Bob Hoel 630-240-0219 (cell) Frozen tundra of Chicago Better on a bike than in a box! From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Dormancy in Ornithogalums Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:08:31 +0000 Dormancy is in winter in nature but the foliage is evergreen. Best time to repot and send would be after cold weather is over and all bulbs large and small will be ready to regrow. > From michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Michael McAuley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:09:31 -0600 I have seen many Dierama types in Ireland and would like to grow them where I live in Houston, Texas, which is in Zones 9 and 9a. Will Dierama varieties grow here and, if so, which ones? I understand that they require direct sun and well draining soil, but would there be anything that would prevent them from thriving here in this tropical area's hot, humid summers? Please advise. Thanks. Michael D. McAuley michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Cell: (281) 250-2536 From rherold@yahoo.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <530B8392.8000501@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: New Moraea species Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 12:38:26 -0500 Speaking of new Moraeas, does anyone know the name of the new species from Jacobs Bay? The naming rights for this species were auctioned off for some $50,000 a couple of years ago, but I never heard of the decision on the name. I believe I have a photo of it from our 2011 trip. If I find it, I'll forward it to the wiki folks. Whoops--I just did some more searching, and found this from the auctioneers: We were involved in a number of fundraising initiatives which all proved to be an enormous success and very rewarding. Name the Iris: The WWF Table Mountain Fund approached us to sell the naming rights of a rare newly discovered West Coast iris on the verge of extinction. It started as a tailor-made online auction hosted on the Strauss & Co website and culminated in an elegant dinner and auction conducted by Stephan Welz at The Mount Nelson Hotel. After competitive bidding it was finally knocked down for R550 000 to Mike and Rose Hainebach who named the iris after his family, the formal Latin name being Moraea hainebachiana. This is the first time that a plant species name has been auctioned in Africa. --Roy NW of Boston Cold and dry after several warm days and melting snow From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393267499.30828.YahooMailBasic@web122304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:44:59 -0800 (PST) I have found that they dislike the heat. After having attempted many of the species (ca. half maybe) and some hybrids here in Tennessee in the NA southeast and in Kansas I have given up on them. Many proved to be quite cold hardy, but none appreciated the summers when they would usually rot out. If anyone has found some to grow differently in the hot and humid southeast then I would like know. Aaron E Tennessee -------------------------------------------- On Tue, 2/25/14, Michael McAuley wrote: in Houston, Texas, which is in Zones 9 and 9a.  Will Dierama varieties grow here and, if so, which ones?  I understand that they require direct sun and well draining soil, but would there be anything that would prevent them from thriving here in this tropical area's hot, humid summers?  Please advise.  Thanks. From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <530B938B.7080308@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 07:46:35 +1300 Michael, I grow them here in Auckland, New Zealand, which is the equivalent of Zone 10a and they do fine. I have some real mini ones, and some extremely tall ones and some in between. Some get more sun than others, they all do well, no special treatment required. I love them. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 25/02/2014 6:09 a.m., Michael McAuley wrote: > I have seen many Dierama types in Ireland and would like to grow them where I live in Houston, Texas, which is in Zones 9 and 9a. Will Dierama varieties grow here and, if so, which ones? I understand that they require direct sun and well draining soil, but would there be anything that would prevent them from thriving here in this tropical area's hot, humid summers? Please advise. Thanks. > > > Michael D. McAuley > michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net > Cell: (281) 250-2536 > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Michael McAuley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 12:53:00 -0600 Thanks for your advice on this. As I find out more from sources other than the PBS members, I'll also post it here. Michael D. McAuley michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Cell: (281) 250-2536 On Feb 24, 2014, at 12:46 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Michael, I grow them here in Auckland, New Zealand, which is the > equivalent of Zone 10a and they do fine. I have some real mini ones, > and some extremely tall ones and some in between. Some get more sun > than others, they all do well, no special treatment required. > > I love them. > > Ina > > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > On 25/02/2014 6:09 a.m., Michael McAuley wrote: >> I have seen many Dierama types in Ireland and would like to grow them where I live in Houston, Texas, which is in Zones 9 and 9a. Will Dierama varieties grow here and, if so, which ones? I understand that they require direct sun and well draining soil, but would there be anything that would prevent them from thriving here in this tropical area's hot, humid summers? Please advise. Thanks. >> >> >> Michael D. McAuley >> michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net >> Cell: (281) 250-2536 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <530B99EB.40302@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 08:13:47 +1300 What zone are you in Aaron? I have well draining soil, and no problem growing them. We are fairly humid. Rain most of the year, although more in winter. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 25/02/2014 7:44 a.m., aaron floden wrote: > Many proved to be quite cold hardy, but none appreciated the summers when they would usually rot out. If anyone has found some to grow differently in the hot and humid southeast then I would like know. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 20:44:24 +0000 They could be planted protected from the hot afternoon sun. As for draining soils, in the wild many are found in seeps and peaty areas where there is abundant moisture whwn they are active during the warm season. As they com from hills and mountains, heat will be the problem. From jshields46074@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:09:59 -0500 After looking at the PBS wiki and other places, I wonder how to tell the difference between Zephyranthes citrina and Z. flavissima? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Jim -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:14:19 -0500 That's easy. Just look under their skirts! On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 4:09 PM, James SHIELDS wrote: > After looking at the PBS wiki and other places, I wonder how to tell the > difference between Zephyranthes citrina and Z. flavissima? > > Any help will be greatly appreciated. > > Jim > > -- > James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com > P.O. Box 92 > Westfield, IN 46074 > U.S.A. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <530BBA30.6010307@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:31:28 +1300 It is the colour more than anything which shows the difference. Also flavissima tends to offset like mad. The seedheads of flavissima are small, much larger for citrina. flavissima has a warmer colour too. Alberto will give you more the scientific differences Jim. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 25/02/2014 10:09 a.m., James SHIELDS wrote: > After looking at the PBS wiki and other places, I wonder how to tell the > difference between Zephyranthes citrina and Z. flavissima? > > Any help will be greatly appreciated. > > Jim > From zera@umich.edu Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sean Zera Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:15:59 -0500 I actually compiled a list of summer-growing *Gladiolus a while back*, arranged taxonomically, in an effort to figure out what I could grow outside here. I could recreate it in the wiki if people think it would be useful. Also, careful using the latest version of The Plant List. I noticed that, for example, it currently recognizes about 65 more species of *Iris* in the US than are generally accepted, apparently due to an error in a source database. Sean Z USDA Zone 6a SE Michigan From oldtulips@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Rimmer Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:31:14 -0500 Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received in a recent BX offering. grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to the BX. Rimmer From ramptons1@bigpond.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <460848EB6CBD40ACA67F96DD5E495140@joyjohnPC> From: "John Quinn" Subject: Growing iris from seed Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:26:46 +1100 A wonderful list of suggestions from Mary Sue Ittner regarding my effort to sort out gladiolus. Thank you all for your responses. Now my next question. I am in Melbourne Australia - autumn is beginning with weather that can be dry or wettish or frosty. I have seeds of about 8 different iris mainly species. My friend has never got any to germinate. I am soaking all of them at the moment to see if that helps.. I have germinated Pacific Coast Iris - just sewed the seed now in shade and damp. Have I done the right thing here? How long before they germinate - as a general rule? Joy --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From eez55@earthlink.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <25478361.1393285827131.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Eugene Zielinski Subject: Growing iris from seed Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:50:26 -0700 (GMT-07:00) John. Iris species are varied in their germination requirements. Why don't you list the types you have? Soaking the seed does no harm, and helps in some cases (I. tenax, for example). -----Original Message----- >From: John Quinn >Sent: Feb 24, 2014 4:26 PM >To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' >Subject: [pbs] Growing iris from seed > >Now my next question. > >I am in Melbourne Australia - autumn is beginning with weather that can be >dry or wettish or frosty. > >I have seeds of about 8 different iris mainly species. >My friend has never got any to germinate. >I am soaking all of them at the moment to see if that helps.. >I have germinated Pacific Coast Iris - just sewed the seed now in shade and >damp. > >Have I done the right thing here? >How long before they germinate - as a general rule? > >Joy > > >--- >This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. >http://www.avast.com >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 15:57:20 -0800 Sean, I think there are many who would appreciate that list & any new members would find it very helpful. Karl Church On Feb 24, 2014 2:16 PM, "Sean Zera" wrote: > I actually compiled a list of summer-growing *Gladiolus a while back*, > arranged taxonomically, in an effort to figure out what I could grow > outside here. I could recreate it in the wiki if people think it would be > useful. > > Also, careful using the latest version of The Plant List. I noticed that, > for example, it currently recognizes about 65 more species of *Iris* in the > US than are generally accepted, apparently due to an error in a source > database. > > Sean Z > USDA Zone 6a > SE Michigan > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:00:56 -0800 Rimmer, what size pots are these in because they look larger then mine grown from the same offering. Karl On Feb 24, 2014 2:31 PM, "Rimmer" wrote: > Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received > in a recent BX offering. > grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ > > Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to > the BX. > > Rimmer > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From makikogotowiderman@me.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <406DA268-6871-474E-9023-E7F14022CAB0@me.com> From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:01:52 -0800 Rimmer, It's so beautiful. I found my Lachanelia was blooming this weekend, but it was a very tiny flower. Makiko On Feb 24, 2014, at 2:31 PM, Rimmer wrote: > Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received in a recent BX offering. > grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ > > Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to the BX. > > Rimmer > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From oldtulips@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <4F3A4E24-F5B9-4EC8-866B-0F2ED39299E0@gmail.com> From: Rimmer Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 19:23:02 -0500 The are in 4 inch round plastic pots. i also have L. liliflora bulblets in a 3” pot but i think the Lachs like the 4” better. when they bulk up i will put in 6” pots these are about 8 inches below a bank of T-5 lights with switches for 4x or 8x - 54watt 6400k bulbs -lots of light, too much light too close for some things but these lachs love it. i have a small 6" fan off to the right to cool the heat (and stiffen up the stems). this is my first attempt at these plants, I am hooked. Rimmer On Feb 24, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> wrote: > Rimmer, what size pots are these in because they look larger then mine > grown from the same offering. > Karl > On Feb 24, 2014 2:31 PM, "Rimmer" wrote: > >> Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received >> in a recent BX offering. >> grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights >> >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ >> >> Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to >> the BX. >> >> Rimmer >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 00:36:44 +0000 Citrina is winter dormant with no leaves, foliage is a dull pea green, quite narrow and rather lax. Few leaves. Flowers are regular and an intense yellow, with more of boiled egg yolk yellow. like here http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zephyranthes_citrina_108.6605.jpg and here http://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Rain%20Lily%20yellow.html or here https://store.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/summer/productview/?sku=102-02 http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zephyranthes Left image Flavissima is an aquatic plant and under good water conditions foliage is evergreen although the plant is dormant in summer without losing its leaves. Leaves grow in fountain fashion and the bulbs are strongly offsetting rapidly forming a lawn, strikingly resembling Ophiopogon japonicus tufts, althouth of a different green. The leaves are a fresh green, shining, not dull. The yellow is not so deep as in citrina but more a canary yellow. The flowers tepals are evidently subequal, that is the three outer are not exactly like the three inner as in citrina. This is typical of flavissima as well. Here an excellent photo of the foliage http://www.pinemountainnursery.com.au/products/Zephyranthes-flavissima-%252d-10-bulbs.html here excellent examples of the "pleated" tepal typical of flavissima and not so common in most Zephyranthes and Habranthus we know. http://radiumplus.wordpress.com/2010/05/28/%E9%A2%A8%E9%9B%A8%E8%98%ADzephyranthes-flavissima/ From peter.scaevola@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Peter Franks" Subject: Lycoris shaanxiensis? Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:37:22 +1100 Hi to all It occurs to me that the currently available commercial taxon labelled "Lycoris shaanxiensis" doesn't match the descriptions found in Hsu et al in Sida 1994, 16 (2): 314 and again in Flora of China 24: 268 These sources state that L. shaanxiensis has white flowers with a few pinkish streaks and with red keels. Also that leaves are produced in early spring In a major article by Philip Adams found in Herbertia 2011, 65: 144, fig 28 Adams describes a taxon with flowers of "pale creamy yellow" with "occasional pinkish to reddish stripes". The leaves of his plants, he says emerge in early September, not early spring Adams makes comparison with L. shaanxiensis as he grows it, with L. straminea Lindl. non hort. Japan. He compares the two in size, colouring and leaf phenology and maintains they are similar Adams also states that the specific name "shaanxiensis" means "from the Shan States" of Myanmar whereas Hsu, et al and FoC state that L. shaanxiensis is from the Chinese province of Shaanxi, north of Sichuan Most of the illustrations I have found of L. shaanxiensis on the 'net show umbels of spiderform flowers with lemony yellow buds opening to tepals with a lemony yellow midstripe with keels of the same colour and white margins. No red is seen, except on the distal part of the stigma These, with Adams' plants, are apparently the commercially available "L shaanxiensis" The Hangzhou Botanic Garden website has an illustration of a differently coloured taxon. No yellow is seen. Flowers are mostly white with some pink or red on the buds. This taxon conforms better to the original description in Hsu et al and FoC As for leaf phenology, I would have thought it unlikely that the commercial clone would produce leaves in autumn if it is truly L. shaanxiensis. It seems to me that the prevailing winter climate of Shaanxi Province would not encourage Lycoris to produce overwintering leaves FoC states the leaves are up to 50cm long by 1.8cm wide, lacking a distinct pale median stripe. I have no reports on what dimensions and colour the commercial L. shaanxiensis has - do they match? Your information and suggestions are welcome Regards Peter in Sydney where it's steamy & around 25C -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Rimmer Sent: Tuesday, 25 February 2014 9:31 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Lachanelia from BX 353 Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received in a recent BX offering. grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to the BX. Rimmer From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:47:29 -0800 I have tried growing various different Dierama species multiple times here in inland southern California. And in every case so far, sooner or later, they eventually dwindle to nothing, and it always happens in the summertime. I've managed to have some grow to almost fill a 15 cm/6 in. pot, and just when they get big enough that I think they will finally bloom, they start to dwindle and 1 to 3 years later I get only one leaf, then nothing. And yet, back when I used to live in the San Francisco Bay Area, I could go see dozens of these planted in the ground in Golden Gate Park in San Francisco with huge numbers of the "fishing rods" in bloom. They obviously loved growing there. So I now suspect that they just don't like summer heat, even though our nights cool off here far more than in the southeastern USA. The fact that they do so well in Ireland as well, for example, tells me that they may be one of those Zone 9 plants that also happen to want it to never get hot either. As I've mentioned before, I don't think Ina realizes just how cool the summers are in Auckland despite it never getting much below freezing in the winter, if ever. (I believe parts of the Auckland area are Zone 10b.) I spent part of a November and most of a January traveling all over New Zealand about 20 years ago, and even though I had been living in the San Francisco Bay Area for about 5 years at the time, I felt like I was cold *all* the time even when I went north of Auckland to Whangarei. Only Ninety Mile Beach started to feel slightly "warm" and it is definitely Zone 10b if not a true Zone 11. Now mind you, the San Francisco Bay Area is widely considered to have the most pleasant summer weather of any location in the USA's sunbelt. So much so, that people often refer to its "natural air conditioning" all summer long. (The hottest part of the year there is usually late September/early October which is early-to-mid-autumn.) And even for people living there, San Francisco was considered cold all summer long. I remember that anytime we would go see an evening baseball game at the old Candlestick Park stadium in July/August (the hottest part of the summer in all of the rest of the USA), we invariably had to get out our winter jackets *and* bring blankets with us, and we still felt like we were freezing. Mark Twain was even reputed to have said that the coldest winter he ever spent was a summer in San Francisco. (He never really said it.) And yet, I think I've mentioned before that a professor of mine originally from Auckland, who lived there (SF Bay) told me that he thought it was unbearably warm his first summer after emigrating from New Zealand. I think the only times Houston has weather similar to Auckland's is in late autumn/early winter and late winter/early spring. And that's it. Since I never see any plantings of Dierama around southern Calif., I think they will be impossible in Houston. But these are just my observations and comparisons. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Feb 24, 2014, at 11:13 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > What zone are you in Aaron? I have well draining soil, and no problem > growing them. We are fairly humid. Rain most of the year, although > more in winter. > > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > On 25/02/2014 7:44 a.m., aaron floden wrote: >> Many proved to be quite cold hardy, but none appreciated the summers when they would usually rot out. If anyone has found some to grow differently in the hot and humid southeast then I would like know. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <6D0ED218-A939-4D41-98BF-8BBB600B02A2@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:54:27 +1000 Hello Jim I have flowering specimens, growing side by side & I also find citrina is consistently more robust, flavisima leaves are not only thinner but also droop a little, citrina is more upright, flower petals are consistently slightly longer & visibly thinner & can often be a little twisted. citrina has a well formed petal I'n comparison.. I think the flavissima has far greater florescence especially under a camera lens If my computer wasn't broken I could show u what I mean :( Steven : ) On 25/02/2014, at 7:09 AM, James SHIELDS wrote: > After looking at the PBS wiki and other places, I wonder how to tell the > difference between Zephyranthes citrina and Z. flavissima? > > Any help will be greatly appreciated. > > Jim > > -- > James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com > P.O. Box 92 > Westfield, IN 46074 > U.S.A. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <1393290234.22947.YahooMailBasic@web122304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:03:54 -0800 (PST) I am currently zone 7-ish. We reached -1 F this year, but the previous five winters saw lows only to 7F with most not below 10F. I can second nearly exactly what Lee mentions. In pots they seemed better off and I could get them going, but planted out they dwindled quickly. Most growth happened spring and fall with death always summertime. I did flower one from Ellen (Seneca Hill Perennials) and also a seed grown dracomontanum, but they died immediately after. Aaron -------------------------------------------- On Tue, 2/25/14, Lee Poulsen wrote: I have tried growing various different Dierama species multiple times here in inland southern California. And in every case so far, sooner or later, they eventually dwindle to nothing, and it always happens in the summertime. I've managed to have some grow to almost fill a 15 cm/6 in. pot, and just when they get big enough that I think they will finally bloom, they start to dwindle and 1 to 3 years later I get only one leaf, then nothing. of those Zone 9 plants that also happen to want it to never get hot either. As I've mentioned before, I don't think Ina realizes just how cool the summers are in Auckland despite it never getting much below freezing in the winter, if ever. On Feb 24, 2014, at 11:13 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > What zone are you in Aaron?  I have well draining soil, and no problem > growing them.  We are fairly humid.  Rain most of the year, although > more in winter. > > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > On 25/02/2014 7:44 a.m., aaron floden wrote: From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <4A68236C-5632-4E44-A546-A04DE2D5B177@gmail.com> From: Gastil Gastil-Buhl Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:07:19 -0800 Here in Santa Barbara both in my garden and on the university campus there are Dierama that self-sow and grow to formidable clumps with yearly blooming. I think they are D. pendulum and/or D. pulcherrimum. A few bloom off-season but the main bloom is April. This strange year they are already blooming now in February. This is approximately usda zone 9b or 10a. Our summers are closer to San Francisco's than Texas, by far, but occasionally exceeding 85 F on hot days and even rarely over 90 F but with night time cooling. The USDA zones are better for predicting cold tolerance than heat tolerance. However, the difference between in-ground planting and growing in containers is important. Here I have attempted to grow Dierama in pots to more easily share them as they resent transplanting. The ones in pots struggle to survive to blooming size. The ones in the ground thrive. Dierama has a tap root that goes quite deep, much deeper than a standard gallon pot. The few pots that survived had reached out the bottom of the pot and were growing their tap root in the soil below. As mentioned already these do require full sun but you might try an in-ground planting where the roots are well shaded and thus cooler but the leaves can reach into sun. This may be another example where the soil temperature matters more than the air temperature. - Gastil From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 17:19:15 -0800 Thanks Rimmer, Mine are only slightly smaller & are growing outside on a south facing porch. Karl On Feb 24, 2014 4:23 PM, "Rimmer" wrote: > The are in 4 inch round plastic pots. > i also have L. liliflora bulblets in a 3" pot but i think the Lachs like > the 4" better. when they bulk up i will put in 6" pots > these are about 8 inches below a bank of T-5 lights with switches for 4x > or 8x - 54watt 6400k bulbs > -lots of light, too much light too close for some things but these lachs > love it. > i have a small 6" fan off to the right to cool the heat (and stiffen up > the stems). > > this is my first attempt at these plants, I am hooked. > > Rimmer > > On Feb 24, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Rimmer, what size pots are these in because they look larger then mine > > grown from the same offering. > > Karl > > On Feb 24, 2014 2:31 PM, "Rimmer" wrote: > > > >> Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were > received > >> in a recent BX offering. > >> grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights > >> > >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ > >> > >> Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute > to > >> the BX. > >> > >> Rimmer > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > >> > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From eciton@alumni.utexas.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 19:25:26 -0600 Thanks for sharing your photos Rimmer. Your Lachenalia mutabilis is about to get even prettier, the top of the inflorescence is going to turn electric blue, one of the brightest colors I've ever seen on a flower. Also, the L. unicolor bulbs I sent were about half purple like the one you show, and half blue, so you can look forward to both colors and grades in-between. enjoy, monica From jshields46074@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: James SHIELDS Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 20:40:30 -0500 Thanks you Alberto, George, and Steven! You are all very helpful. I received some flavissima and some citrina, and I may have gotten the labels a little mixed up..... Now I can just sort them out when they bloom. I have found descriptions of citrina (Flora of North America, John Bryan's "Bulbs" etc.) but none of flavissima. I can't find either of their original descriptions on the WWW. So I am grateful for your help. Jim Shields At 07:36 PM 2/24/2014, you wrote: Citrina is winter dormant with no leaves, foliage is a dull pea green, quite narrow and rather lax. Few leaves. Flowers are regular and an intense yellow, with more of boiled egg yolk yellow. like here http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zephyranthes_citrina_108.6605.jpg and here http://www.flowersofindia.net/catalog/slides/Rain%20Lily%20yellow.html or here https://store.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/summer/productview/?sku=102-02 http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zephyranthes Left image Flavissima is an aquatic plant and under good water conditions foliage is evergreen although the plant is dormant in summer without losing its leaves. Leaves grow in fountain fashion and the bulbs are strongly offsetting rapidly forming a lawn, strikingly resembling Ophiopogon japonicus tufts, althouth of a different green. The leaves are a fresh green, shining, not dull. The yellow is not so deep as in citrina but more a canary yellow. The flowers tepals are evidently subequal, that is the three outer are not exactly like the three inner as in citrina. This is typical of flavissima as well. Here an excellent photo of the foliage http://www.pinemountainnursery.com.au/products/Zephyranthes-flavissima-%252d-10-bulbs.html here excellent examples of the "pleated" tepal typical of flavissima and not so common in most Zephyranthes and Habranthus we know. http://radiumplus.wordpress.com/2010/05/28/%E9%A2%A8%E9%9B%A8%E8%98%ADzephyranthes-flavissima/ -- James Shields jshields46074@gmail.com P.O. Box 92 Westfield, IN 46074 U.S.A. From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 18:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <530BF790.5010008@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 14:53:20 +1300 Just one thing, Jim, Z. flavissima here is in flower ALL summer. Not in winter. Although there are leaves all year round. So climate has a lot to do with it too. Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 25/02/2014 2:40 p.m., James SHIELDS wrote: > Thanks you Alberto, George, and Steven! You are all very helpful. I > received some flavissima and some citrina, and I may have gotten the labels > a little mixed up..... Now I can just sort them out when they bloom. > > I have found descriptions of citrina (Flora of North America, John Bryan's > "Bulbs" etc.) but none of flavissima. I can't find either of their original > descriptions on the WWW. So I am grateful for your help. > > Jim Shields From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 20:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <8C8B9B00-795A-4C53-90D1-D7FD207B9B11@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris shaanxiensis? Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 21:27:51 -0600 Dear Peter, The discrepancies you note are all correct. The Herbertia article is filled with errors too numerous to mention. Yes L. shaanxiensis does refer to the Chinese Province of Shaanxi (not to be confused with the Prov. of Shanxi) whose capital city is Xi’an, the home of the terracotta warriors. The flowers of true L. shaanxiensis are white with faint lines of pink and it is exceedingly rare in collections. L. straminea is a sort of straw yellow (as the name suggests) but with small pin points of bright pink. Both species are very distinct and not easily confused. Mrs. Lin Jin-Zhen worked for years at the Hangzhou Botanical Garden and was in charge of the extensive Lycoris collection. She was fastidious in her attention to the correct ID of plants in the collection and worked closely with the other authors of the SIDA article which is quite comprehensive and accurate. I can provide further information to you privately if you like, but these details may not be suited to this forum. Feel fee to email me directly any time. In general the the Herbertia article is the result of a lack of solid botanical and horticultural understanding of the genus. Best Jim W. On Feb 24, 2014, at 6:37 PM, Peter Franks wrote: > Hi to all > > It occurs to me that the currently available commercial taxon labelled > "Lycoris shaanxiensis" doesn't match the descriptions found in Hsu et al in > Sida 1994, 16 (2): 314 and again in Flora of China 24: 268 > > These sources state that L. shaanxiensis has white flowers with a few > pinkish streaks and with red keels. Also that leaves are produced in early > spring > > Adams makes comparison with L. shaanxiensis as he grows it, with L. > straminea Lindl. non hort. Japan. He compares the two in size, colouring and > leaf phenology and maintains they are similar > > Adams also states that the specific name "shaanxiensis" means "from the Shan > States" of Myanmar whereas Hsu, et al and FoC state that L. shaanxiensis is > from the Chinese province of Shaanxi, north of Sichuan > > The Hangzhou Botanic Garden website has an illustration of a differently > coloured taxon. No yellow is seen. Flowers are mostly white with some pink > or red on the buds. This taxon conforms better to the original description > in Hsu et al and FoC > > Your information and suggestions are welcome > > Regards > > Peter in Sydney where it's steamy & around 25C > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Rimmer > Sent: Tuesday, 25 February 2014 9:31 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] Lachanelia from BX 353 > > Here are some photos of some Lachanelia blooming now, these were received in > a recent BX offering. > grown in basement under lights with a fan, 63-75F days 53-55F nights > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/sets/72157641118446243/ > > Thank you Dell and Monica Swartz for sharing and to all who contribute to > the BX. > > Rimmer > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 21:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <006c01cf31e5$aa902940$ffb07bc0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: New Moraea species Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 20:54:27 -0800 Wow, Roy, did you ever open a can of worms. But it's a really interesting can, so thanks! I hadn't heard of Moraea hainebachiana before, so I did some searching. That led to this website in Hebrew: http://fatplant.blogspot.com/2012_11_25_archive.html The auto-translated version of the site seems to say that the proceeds of the auction were used to buy the field where the flowers grow. Can anyone confirm that? If true, it'd be the nicest bit of plant conservation news I've heard in a while. What a great concept -- auction the name of the species in order to save it. As the quasi-translated site says, "countless endings happy." I thought the new species looked a lot like Moraea tripetala, so I did more research. That led me to this monograph from late 2012 by Goldblatt and Manning: http://abcjournal.org/index.php/ABC/article/view/12/0 Sure enough, they blew up Moraea tripetala into NINE separate species plus three subspecies. That's ironic, since Goldblatt was the author who originally lumped together several species into M. tripetala. Oh well: a foolish consistency, etc. Here's an excerpt from the article's summary: "Field and laboratory research has shown that the Moraea tripetala complex of western South Africa...has a pattern of morphological and cytological variation too complex to be accommodated in a single species....We propose recognizing nine species and three additional subspecies for plants currently assigned to M. tripetala. M. grandis, from the western Karoo, has virtually free filaments and leaves often ± plane distally; closely allied M. amabilis, also with ± free filaments and often hairy leaves, is centred in the western Karoo and Olifants River Valley. Its range overlaps that of M. cuspidata, which has narrowly channelled, smooth leaves, linear inner tepals spreading distally and filaments united for up to 1.5 mm. M. decipiens from the Piketberg, M. hainebachiana, a local endemic of coastal limestone fynbos in the Saldanha District, M. ogamana from seasonally wet lowlands, and early flowering M. mutila constitute the remaining species of the complex in the southwestern Western Cape. M. helmei, a local endemic of middle elevations in the Kamiesberg, Namaqualand, has small flowers with short, tricuspidate inner tepals. All but M. amabilis and M. mutila are new species. We divide M. tripetala sensu stricto into three subspecies: widespread subsp. tripetala, subsp. violacea from the interior Cape flora region, and late-flowering subsp. jacquiniana from the Cape Peninsula and surrounding mountains." I was delighted to find that the article was published in Bothalia, which allows you to download full PDF copies of the articles. Yay! Since I hadn't been aware of that article, I decided I should check for others. And I found another one with eight new Moraea species: http://abcjournal.org/index.php/ABC/article/view/92 ...plus a full revision of the entire genus based on new genetic information: http://abcjournal.org/index.php/ABC/article/view/84 Fortunately, the revision doesn't change species names, but the species are now arranged in new groups. So, all of that means that the wiki section on Moraea is out of date. We have a bunch of new species to add, and we need to divide up the M. tripetala entry into nine species. Plus, I have six or seven pots of M. tripetala that I now need to re-identify. What a mess. But a fun mess! Mike San Jose, CA From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 24 Feb 2014 21:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <006d01cf31e7$0e97f5c0$2bc7e140$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 21:04:25 -0800 Lee, thanks for your info on growing Dieramma in Pasadena. I'm in San Jose, about 350 miles to the north, but in an inland area that's sheltered from the ocean breezes. It's not quite as hot here as Pasadena, but far hotter than San Francisco. In my area, Dieramma grows very well here in part shade as long as you give it some summer water. I have some clumps that are over a decade old, and bloom profusely each year. They do not appreciate heavy soil. If I were in a place with high summer heat, I think I'd try them in a spot with a lot of shade in the middle of the day. Hope that helps. Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / 6C) From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 24 Feb 2014 23:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <6F8C9C62-37A3-4588-92DA-F8CDF545605B@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2014 22:45:55 -0800 I've thought about trying them in the ground because I know that the soil can stay cooler there, and I think Gastil is correct that soil temperatures are more important than air temperature. But it's curious to me that I don't see Dieramas being used anywhere in the inland valleys or in the 3 major botanical gardens right near my home (Huntington, L.A. Arboretum, Descanso), just like I don't see Fuchsias being grown much here. (They can be grown; I have several, but I do have to take care that they don't ever get overheated--cool root zone, morning sun only, planted only on east side of house with lots of stone or concrete to keep the coolth in.) Maybe that's what Dieramas want, too. The whole coastal strip from Camarillo through Santa Barbara a beyond is always a marvel of coolth to me here in South. Calif. I was doing a project at Vandenberg Air Force Base which is coastward from Lompoc even further north of Santa Barbara, and it was always very chilly all the time even in mid-summer, except for a couple of really curious evenings as the sun set where it warmed up from the 50s or 60s F (12-18°C) up to about 80°F (27°C) right as the sun was setting. You could feel it warming up in real time while you stood there. I'm going to make a guess that Dieramas will grow well where Fuchsias don't mind the summer daytime temperatures (here in Calif. that would be the Palos Verde Peninsula and the Santa Barbara coastal strip in southern Calif. and the Bay Area up around the San Francisco Bay, as well as points further north). I think I'm going to try them in the ground in a location Fuchsias also survive. Thanks. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m From ramato2210@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 01:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: romain amato Subject: : Request Paramongaia pollen (Romain Amato) Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 09:38:33 +0100 Dear ray, mine are sprouting, leaves are 20 cm tall yet but I don't see flower spike. I bought them (2 bulbs) as FS from southern hemisphere too, this year, they are healthy and are supposed to be the summer growing form. I'll let you know if I've some pollen to send to you. maybe you should keep some of yours in the fridge in the case I'd get just one flower later? Have a nice day, Romain From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 04:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:23:41 +0000 Ina,it is in flower all summer in your part of the world, which is something excellent and make it one of the few bulbs species that deserve a place in the garden, but in the wild it flowers in early fall, with the reactivation of the foliage. The reason why Z. flavissima description is impossible to find is that Ravenna published it and other plants in an osbcure practically unknown Brazilian journal. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 04:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: New Moraea species Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:15:05 +0000 Hopefully it is not like the splitting of Ixia rapunculoides, that returned to original within a year's time. I would not run to change my labels, Mike. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 07:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Lachanelia from BX 353 Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 15:10:12 +0000 Lachenalia is a fascinating genus. Of the species, a few are stunning, many have the charm of small size succulents making one want to collect as many as possible and some are "of botanical interest only". Over the years fantastic hybrids have been produced and will no doubt appear from time to time. All Lachenalias, species and hybrids are desperatingly susceptible to viruses and can even be used as indicator plants. This is the reason why the many hybrids and many were extraordinary plants are all gone, a good number without even having reached the public. A Lachenalia leaf must be of a uniform appearance in texture without wrinkling or shiny spots in a matt leaf, for instance. The edges must be all of the same qualtiy, if the edge is nomrally straight some wavy zones indicate virus infection. There are plenty of examples in images of plants for sale but of course I won't link them. My point is: if you plan to grow Lachenalias for long be ready to have zero tolerance to pests like aphids and mealybugs. A mild infection that is anecdotical in your other plants and bulbs will be a disaster with your Lachenalias and everything will start to go downhill from it on. Therfeore all sorts of precautions and before anything, grow any introduced bulb well away from your main co llection until it is plainly evident that the plant is healthy. From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 25 Feb 2014 07:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <20140225151213.CA510E8BDC@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 07:11:36 -0800 Hi, In this discussion of Dierama one thing hasn't been mentioned. This is for the most part a genus of the southern African summer-rainfall region with only one species that extends into the Cape Floral Region, Dierama pendulum. Even it grows in the southeastern cape which I believe has some rain year round. In the Color Encyclopedia of Cape Bulbs it says there are 44 species, mostly summer growing, coastal and montane. The ones we saw on the wonderful Eastern Cape trip with Cameron were mostly high elevation ones. But we only saw a few of the species. In my coastal Northern California garden Dierama had been planted on our property. I've never been sure whether it is a hybrid or the winter rainfall one or D. pulcherrimum, an evergreen species. I didn't deadhead at first and it reseeded about. Even though it is evergreen, it has grown in areas with very little summer water and been very tolerant of a lot of rain in winter. In my garden it blooms best in sunny areas. I'm glad that Lee pointed out that you have to think of more than how cold it gets in winter when you are considering what you can grow. That's what Mike Mace's wonderful wiki climate pages are all about. Using Zones is not enough. In the early days of the wiki the only photos we had of Dierama were taken by Rob Hamilton who was growing them in Tasmania, the state in Australia with the coolest temperatures. Are there any others in our group who have grown any of the species successfully besides D. pendulum or pulcherrimun? If so, please describe your climate. I think the one to try would be Dierama pulcherrimum. And perhaps direct seeding is also helpful or transplanting in the ground when plants are young. Many years ago I was tossing some clumps of corms and had a request to try them from Marilyn in the Bay Area. She found that they did sprout for her, but they never grew well and eventually she got rid of them. Mary Sue Mary Sue Ittner California's North Coast Wet mild winters with occasional frost Dry mild summers From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <6FE21BEF-F028-45E6-AC4B-8D1339BECA7A@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 02:54:46 +1000 So interesting Ina's flower all year. I have similar zoning to Ina although NZ would have a more persistent winter.. I have flavisima growing on two sides of the garden. Both I'n very dry conditions, not it's preferred environment but they grow happily. But i have longer dormancy due to dry spells.. The side I water at random, flowers several times a year but not over winter, as to be expected.. And the side that relies on natural rain only, usually only flowers once a year or sometimes twice.. Steven : ) On 25/02/2014, at 9:23 PM, Alberto wrote: > > Ina,it is in flower all summer in your part of the world, Ravenna published it and other plants in an osbcure practically unknown Brazilian journal. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Tue, 25 Feb 2014 09:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: <530CCCF0.1090400@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 09:03:44 -0800 Dear All: I am sorry to post this, but I think it is necessary. I am being swamped with requests and e-mails that I simply can't answer. I am one person, and have only very limited unskilled help one morning a week. I can't sit at my computer answering questions like "when are you going to have ...." For species that are sold out, I simply don't know when I will have enough to list again, so these aren't questions I can answer. Please ... if you have questions about growing a bulb, identifying a bulb or germinating seeds, ask THIS forum, not me. I just don't have the time to answer questions like this, and you won't receive an answer. Taking care of the bulbs and packing and sending orders takes priority and fills up my day completely. I can only spend computer time doing that, I can't chat or carry on a correspondence with other bulb growers as much as I might like to. For e-mail orders, you might wait a few days for a confirmation. I am away from home every other weekend this time of year (from Christmas to about May). After that I work seven days a week and answers will be more timely. Please, do not repeatedly send me requests for a confirmation over weekends, it won't speed things up. Everything here goes through me, nothing is automated, so you don't get an instantaneous confirmation and shipping date that is computer generated like you do from most mail order companies. Often I have to physically go out to the greenhouses to check to stock to see if I have sufficient quantities. Many of the bulbs are growing in pots and are individually removed and packed for shipping, so I often don't even know the exact quantities I have. It isn't like a bulb retailer that receives its bulbs from elsewhere all packed and dried and knowing exactly the quantities they are getting. I no longer allow visitors to the nursery. Honestly, there isn't much to see, just greenhouses full of pots of bulbs, most of which are not blooming (depending upon the time of year). I get more and more requests to 'see the nursery' and I just can't accommodate visitors, it is too disruptive to my day. If this all makes me sound unfriendly, I am sorry. The only way I can get the work done is to work uninterrupted all day. My day starts at 4am (yes, it does!), and I often work until evening, taking a break in the afternoon to train my dogs. I am not complaining, I love my bulbs and my business, I am just trying to explain and fend off more "if you can't be bothered to answer .." kind of comments. Yes, I get plenty of those, some even worse. For all (and that is most) of my wonderful patient customers, my deepest thanks. Diana Telos Rare Bulbs www.telosrarebulbs.com From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:10:22 -0600 Thanks, Alberto. The technical way to tell these two plants apart have been bugging me for a while and I'm sure much longer for others who have grown them. What do you make of the bulbs I received as flavissima? It certainly multiplies readily and seems to fit the descriptions you provided. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zephyranthes#flavissima Nhu On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Alberto wrote: > Flavissima is an aquatic plant and under good water conditions foliage is > evergreen although the plant is dormant in summer without losing its > leaves. Leaves grow in fountain fashion and the bulbs are strongly > offsetting rapidly forming a lawn, strikingly resembling Ophiopogon > japonicus tufts, althouth of a different green. The leaves are a fresh > green, shining, not dull. The yellow is not so deep as in citrina but more > a canary yellow. The flowers tepals are evidently subequal, that is the > three outer are not exactly like the three inner as in citrina. This is > typical of flavissima as well. From billthebulbbaron@aol.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: billthebulbbaron@aol.com Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:12:41 -0800 > > Greetings Diana, Sounds like my situation likewise, exactly, virtually word for word! This is precisely what I have been trying to explain to my customers. I wish for "brain wifi" so I could install the understanding into the skeptics. Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron From zera@umich.edu Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sean Zera Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 13:27:58 -0500 Okay, here it is: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SummerGrowingGladiolus I may get around to linking the species to their existing pages eventually. Section Gladiolus is missing unless I find a source for the current taxonomy of the Eurasian species. Same with the Madagascan species. Question: are any of the tropical species cultivated other than *Gladiolus murielae* (*Acidanthera bicolor*)? Sean Z From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 18:29:26 +0000 Hello, Nhu. Of the images you have submitted to the wiki, I would say the first one is the same original flavissima as in cultivation around the world. When I see the rest I am not so sure but they must be compared if grown in standing water as it is how the plant grows in the wild. I have been avoiding to mention that originally the aquatic yellow species from Argentina was described by Ravenna as Z. flavissima. This is the one I collected and distributed around the world. A few years ago, Ravenna decided that the real flavissima was a Brazilian species and gave the Argentinian plant another name. You know, the usual mess.So let's keep it flavissima for the sake of our mental health. There are similar plants in Brazil that could be flavissima as well but to approach that we have to grow them all as an aquatic and having the original flavissima around for comparison. The foliage in your wiki photos look very much like the original flavissima's but too scan instead of the grassy tufts but it may be due to less aquatic whereabouts. The superb form of candida you saw and photographed at UC Berkeley was collected and given to them and also grows as an aquatic as well and in the deepest shade. From kimcmich@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:43:32 -0800 Bill and Diane, A very effective way of handling this problem is setting an auto-reply for your email messages. Every email gets a response email with the politely exasperated message you hope to convey which can include the suggestion people pose their question to the PBS. It's usually easy to configure an auto-reply in your email program, which you can then easily turn-on or off (and edit for timeliness) as the need arises. And of course you can still send a real reply to the emails that merit a response. -| From: billthebulbbaron@aol.com > Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:12:41 -0800 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Telos Rare Bulbs > > > > > Greetings Diana, > > Sounds like my situation likewise, exactly, virtually word for word! This is precisely what I have been trying to explain to my customers. I wish for "brain wifi" so I could install the understanding into the skeptics. > > Best wishes, > Bill the Bulb Baron > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 13:45:23 -0500 Or, simply, put it right on your website. Much less work and hassle for you. On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 1:43 PM, Kipp McMichael wrote: > Bill and Diane, > A very effective way of handling this problem is setting an auto-reply > for your email messages. Every email gets a response email with the > politely exasperated message you hope to convey which can include the > suggestion people pose their question to the PBS. It's usually easy to > configure an auto-reply in your email program, which you can then easily > turn-on or off (and edit for timeliness) as the need arises. > And of course you can still send a real reply to the emails that merit a > response. > -| > > From: billthebulbbaron@aol.com > > Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:12:41 -0800 > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Telos Rare Bulbs > > > > > > > > Greetings Diana, > > > > Sounds like my situation likewise, exactly, virtually word for word! > This is precisely what I have been trying to explain to my customers. I > wish for "brain wifi" so I could install the understanding into the > skeptics. > > > > Best wishes, > > Bill the Bulb Baron > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:45:35 -0800 ... and sorry for the misspelling of your name, Diana.-|< From leo@possi.org Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <18accf1690f787cb0cc57ae925f9a12e.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Dormancy in Ornithogalums Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:19:42 -0800 (PST) Robert asked about dividing Ornithogalum longibracteatum. My experience has been that Ornithogalum can be divided at any time of the year without problems. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From npublici@yahoo.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393356586.86561.YahooMailNeo@web140403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 11:29:46 -0800 (PST) Exactly the reasons I had to start wholesale only,when I had a nursery.Still,some pushy people would ignore my situation and try to worm their way past the necessary rules. On Tuesday, February 25, 2014 1:39 PM, "billthebulbbaron@aol.com" wrote: > > Greetings Diana, Sounds like my situation likewise, exactly, virtually word for word!  This is precisely what I have been trying to explain to my customers. I wish for "brain wifi" so I could install the understanding into the skeptics.  Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <530CF666.8050602@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Growing species Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 09:00:38 +1300 Seed from BX 304 of Dierama trichorhizum (?) which is one of the smallest ones with pink flowers, delightful. I also grow Dierama igneus, which is supposed to be THE smallest one, has melon coloured flowers. I had not realised how delightful the small ones are. Am still looking for seed of the white Dierama which grows to about 9 ft. All mine of course are in equivalent of zone 10a with cool summer temperatures. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 26/02/2014 4:11 a.m., Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > Are there any others in our > group who have grown any of the species successfully besides D. > pendulum or pulcherrimun? From robin@hansennursery.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 13:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393361402.988817601@mail.hansennursery.com> From: robin@hansennursery.com Subject: Telos Rare Bulbs Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 12:50:02 -0800 (PST) I'm sure Diana appreciates all of your suggestions about how to handle the situations she mentioned. I know I do. Using technology takes up huge amounts of time when we really need to be in the nursery, especially at this time of year. I (with extremely few exceptions) do not allow visitors either. I don't have the internet traffic Diana does but that's partly because I've deliberately chosen to limit the sophistication of my website to the very basics. It's the small specialist nurseries that are essential to all truly crazy plant lovers. We've lost too many of them in the last five years and more as it is, so I hope we all take Diana's comments to heart. Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery Southwest Oregon, USA -----Original Message----- From: "Del Allegood" Sent: Tuesday, February 25, 2014 11:29am To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Subject: Re: [pbs] Telos Rare Bulbs Exactly the reasons I had to start wholesale only,when I had a nursery.Still,some pushy people would ignore my situation and try to worm their way past the necessary rules. On Tuesday, February 25, 2014 1:39 PM, "billthebulbbaron@aol.com" wrote: > > Greetings Diana, Sounds like my situation likewise, exactly, virtually word for word! This is precisely what I have been trying to explain to my customers. I wish for "brain wifi" so I could install the understanding into the skeptics. Best wishes, Bill the Bulb Baron From pelarg@aol.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 14:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <8D1008C502C939C-8B4-27514@webmail-m293.sysops.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 17:01:48 -0500 (EST) Gladiolus watsonoides from Kenya is in limited cultivation in the UK and here in the US I am growing it in small numbers, but in the past I contributed it to NYBG so they may still have it. It does not really go dormant for long, and it forms many cormlets which survive better than the mother corm sometimes. It is also self fertile in my experience. Ernie Z7 NY where winter still reigns. -----Original Message----- From: Sean Zera To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Feb 25, 2014 1:28 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] Gladiolus winter or summer? Okay, here it is: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SummerGrowingGladiolus I may get around to linking the species to their existing pages eventually. Section Gladiolus is missing unless I find a source for the current taxonomy of the Eurasian species. Same with the Madagascan species. Question: are any of the tropical species cultivated other than *Gladiolus murielae* (*Acidanthera bicolor*)? Sean Z From ramptons1@bigpond.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 16:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "John Quinn" Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:06:50 +1100 Fantastic work - just what I was looking for. Thank you so much - such a lot of time and effort you must have put in. I feel over time this will help a lot of people sort out their bulbs. Joy -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Sean Zera Sent: Wednesday, 26 February 2014 5:28 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Gladiolus winter or summer? Okay, here it is: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SummerGrowingGladiolus I may get around to linking the species to their existing pages eventually. Section Gladiolus is missing unless I find a source for the current taxonomy of the Eurasian species. Same with the Madagascan species. Question: are any of the tropical species cultivated other than *Gladiolus murielae* (*Acidanthera bicolor*)? Sean Z --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Tue, 25 Feb 2014 17:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 16:21:53 -0800 Thank you Sean; Your time & effort is greatly appreciated & will serve the PBS well. That page will give us all a welcome quick reference & one that new members will find very helpful. Again Thank you. Karl On Feb 24, 2014 2:16 PM, "Sean Zera" wrote: > I actually compiled a list of summer-growing *Gladiolus a while back*, > arranged taxonomically, in an effort to figure out what I could grow > outside here. I could recreate it in the wiki if people think it would be > useful. > > Also, careful using the latest version of The Plant List. I noticed that, > for example, it currently recognizes about 65 more species of *Iris* in the > US than are generally accepted, apparently due to an error in a source > database. > > Sean Z > USDA Zone 6a > SE Michigan > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 25 Feb 2014 19:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <5452932.545278.1393381257216.JavaMail.root@vms170035> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Gladiolus winter or summer? Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2014 20:20:57 -0600 (CST) Thanks Sean. Quite a piece of work. Arnold On 02/25/14, John Quinn wrote: Fantastic work - just what I was looking for. Thank you so much - such a lot of time and effort you must have put in. I feel over time this will help a lot of people sort out their bulbs. Joy -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Sean Zera Sent: Wednesday, 26 February 2014 5:28 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Gladiolus winter or summer? Okay, here it is: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SummerGrowingGladiolus I may get around to linking the species to their existing pages eventually. Section Gladiolus is missing unless I find a source for the current taxonomy of the Eurasian species. Same with the Madagascan species. Question: are any of the tropical species cultivated other than *Gladiolus murielae* (*Acidanthera bicolor*)? Sean Z --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From overmarsjw@yahoo.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 03:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <1393411665.37874.YahooMailNeo@web141106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Jan willem Overmars Subject: Native bulbs New Zealand Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 02:47:45 -0800 (PST) Hello all, I'm happy to let you know I had a good trip in New zealand. Special thanks to Ina for giving me adresses of rare bulb places in NZ and to Joy plants and Bill Dijks nursery for having me :-) Although of course most bulbs were dormant I still had the chance to take pictures of about 60 species. I publised some of my pictures here https://www.flickr.com/photos/69606332@N02/sets/72157641553337394/ If you have a few minutes I would be very much helped by the correct botanical names. Especially cultivar names are hard to figur out.. you can leave names in the comments. Thanks in advance for your effort! Pictures are taken @: Botanical garden Auckland Joy Plants nursery Te Kuiti Gardens (New Plymouth) Hollard gardens (New Plymouth) Bill Dijk's rare flowerbulbs nursery Cheers, Jan Overmars, Holland www.strongbulbs.com From medstd@gmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 06:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: thanin phan Subject: Crinum kunthianum Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 20:22:46 +0700 Dear all member, Do any have profile of Crinum kunthianum. I got from UK seller 2 yrs ago and now just give flower bud. I check http://www.theplantlist.org/, it accepted name. But I can't find any info in internet more than in http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Crinum_kunthianum. My photo : http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7412/12792776604_7f662574de_c.jpg Thank you so much, Thanin form Thailand From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 09:17:13 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 10:43:14 -0600 Hi Alberto, Thanks for the interesting discussion. In fact, all of those images are of the same plant! The only difference is that the first image is from a different year. These may have been from the same place that you've collected and spread around the world, but definitely not the same time frame. I've updated the wiki entry with some habitat photos: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Zephyranthes#flavissima The UCBG Z. candida grows in the opposite conditions that it was collected in. The plants are in full sun and a very well-drained area. They seem to be doing quite well based on the blooming. It would be nice to get this clone into cultivation because the other candida clones I've seen have been small and not quite as impressive. Nhu On Tue, Feb 25, 2014 at 12:29 PM, Alberto wrote: > Hello, Nhu. Of the images you have submitted to the wiki, I would say the > first one is the same original flavissima as in cultivation around the > world. When I see the rest I am not so sure but they must be compared if > grown in standing water as it is how the plant grows in the wild > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 18:24:17 +0000 Yes, Nhu, the normal habitat for Z. candida in the wild is wet pastures (with standing water) in full sun. It was very odd to see plants growing and flowering in the deepest shade of trees, in soking wet soil. A few of these plants had very deep rose buds, very striking, but opened to white as the others. From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: <530E32D1.7050905@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Z. candida (was Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima) Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:30:41 +1300 From discussions on Facebook with people in Thailand, they say there are 2 Z. candidathey have, one the usual one and one a large one. So the large one is around. As for growing conditions Nhu, Z. candida as grown everywhere, will take any conditions, wet, dry, sunny, shady, heavy soil and light soil, they will grow and flower. Which is why it is the only one sold in nurseries here. Does yours set seed Nhu? Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 27/02/2014 5:43 a.m., Nhu Nguyen wrote: > The UCBG Z. candida grows in the opposite conditions that it was collected > in. The plants are in full sun and a very well-drained area. They seem to > be doing quite well based on the blooming. It would be nice to get this > clone into cultivation because the other candida clones I've seen have been > small and not quite as impressive. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 12:17:10 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Z. candida (was Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima) Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 19:17:13 +0000 Yes, Ina, for every species or form I collected was distributed free as widely as possible. Although Z. candida grows under exclusively frost free conditions at river banks in the wild it is really hardy as other plants of the pampas like Rhodophiala bifida, Oxalis perdicaria, Gelasine elongata, Cypella herberti, Herbertia lahue, Ipheion uniflorum, etc. From xerantheum@gmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Z. candida (was Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima) Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 14:57:00 -0600 Hi Ina, The Z. candida that I grew is a small form I dug out of a swampy ditch in southern Louisiana. It must have gotten out of cultivation? They were evergreen and multiplied nicely in a border in Louisiana. The plants do occasionally form seeds and are pretty hardy to mild frost as Alberto suggested. The leaves can freeze to a pretty good solid in winter days (sometimes to 20F/-6C) and thaw out perfectly. What's more impressive is that they are able to withstand the 100F/98C days in the muddy soils where a lot of plants will have their roots boiled. Tough plants, pretty, and should definitely be grown more often in hot places. Nhu On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > Does yours set seed Nhu? > From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 26 Feb 2014 14:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <530E646C.2080709@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Z. candida (was Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima) Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 11:02:20 +1300 That sounds like the commonone grown here Nhu. It was these which my friends used to comment on the beautiful show they made, until after a couple of years I actually -looked- at them, and started to wonder if there were any other colours. And lost my heart..... I have crossed Z. primulina, no idea what with, and finished up with a white one which sets seed readily. As I suspect primulina is a cross of candida, could it have reverted back to candida? Certainly the flower looks like a candida. Z. flavissima is pretty tough here, I wonder what sort of temperatures they would take. Ina Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a On 27/02/2014 9:57 a.m., Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Hi Ina, > > The Z. candida that I grew is a small form I dug out of a swampy ditch in > southern Louisiana. It must have gotten out of cultivation? They were > evergreen and multiplied nicely in a border in Louisiana. The plants do > occasionally form seeds and are pretty hardy to mild frost as Alberto > suggested. The leaves can freeze to a pretty good solid in winter days > (sometimes to 20F/-6C) and thaw out perfectly. What's more impressive is > that they are able to withstand the 100F/98C days in the muddy soils where > a lot of plants will have their roots boiled. Tough plants, pretty, and > should definitely be grown more often in hot places. > > Nhu > > On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> Does yours set seed Nhu? >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From arnold140@verizon.net Thu, 27 Feb 2014 07:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: <10149307.110341.1393512252339.JavaMail.root@vznit170116> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Bulb Garden Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 08:44:12 -0600 (CST) The next Bulb Garden will be mailed over the weekend. On the label is an expiration date for membership. If you have paid in the last 4 weeks disregard the 2103 date. If you have questions about your membership please email me off line at arnold140@Verizon.net If not this will be the last Bulb Garden you will receive and you will not be able to participate in the BX/SX. Thank you all for your continued support of the Pacific Bulb Society. Arnold Treasurer Pacific Bulb Society From btankers@gmail.com Thu, 27 Feb 2014 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:39:18 -0600 I tried Dierama pulchellum (1 small plant in a 4" pot) in the ground when I worked in Galveston,Texas on the campus of the Medical Branch in the hopes that the sea breezes would keep it cool enough to survive the summers. Unfortunately it rotted shortly after it was planted. Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 11:04 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > Lee, thanks for your info on growing Dieramma in Pasadena. I'm in San Jose, > about 350 miles to the north, but in an inland area that's sheltered from > the ocean breezes. It's not quite as hot here as Pasadena, but far hotter > than San Francisco. In my area, Dieramma grows very well here in part shade > as long as you give it some summer water. I have some clumps that are over > a > decade old, and bloom profusely each year. > > They do not appreciate heavy soil. If I were in a place with high summer > heat, I think I'd try them in a spot with a lot of shade in the middle of > the day. > > Hope that helps. > > Mike > San Jose, CA > (zone 9, min temp 20F / 6C) > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Thu, 27 Feb 2014 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Michael McAuley Subject: Growing Dierama in Zone 9 Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 09:57:28 -0600 Thanks for this. I may still give it a try if I can find the right spot in my garden, either in the ground or in a container. Michael D. McAuley michael.d.mcauley@comcast.net Cell: (281) 250-2536 On Feb 27, 2014, at 9:39 AM, Boyce Tankersley wrote: > I tried Dierama pulchellum (1 small plant in a 4" pot) in the ground when I > worked in Galveston,Texas on the campus of the Medical Branch in the hopes > that the sea breezes would keep it cool enough to survive the summers. > Unfortunately it rotted shortly after it was planted. > > Boyce Tankersley > Chicago Botanic Garden > > > On Mon, Feb 24, 2014 at 11:04 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > >> Lee, thanks for your info on growing Dieramma in Pasadena. I'm in San Jose, >> about 350 miles to the north, but in an inland area that's sheltered from >> the ocean breezes. It's not quite as hot here as Pasadena, but far hotter >> than San Francisco. In my area, Dieramma grows very well here in part shade >> as long as you give it some summer water. I have some clumps that are over >> a >> decade old, and bloom profusely each year. >> >> They do not appreciate heavy soil. If I were in a place with high summer >> heat, I think I'd try them in a spot with a lot of shade in the middle of >> the day. >> >> Hope that helps. >> >> Mike >> San Jose, CA >> (zone 9, min temp 20F / 6C) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From group@shoalcreeksucculents.com Thu, 27 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <005701cf33f4$8bb5d4a0$a3217de0$@shoalcreeksucculents.com> From: "Shoal Creek Succulents" Subject: unknown hyacinthaceae Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 13:46:01 -0600 Hello- I wonder if this is distinct enough for an ID? I was too impatient to wait for the flower to open. Best regards, Lisa http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=90 &u=17185230 http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=91 &u=17185230 http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=92 &u=17185230 From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 27 Feb 2014 12:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: unknown hyacinthaceae Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 19:56:50 +0000 Albuca? On 27 February 2014 19:46, Shoal Creek Succulents < group@shoalcreeksucculents.com> wrote: > Hello- > > > > I wonder if this is distinct enough for an ID? I was too impatient to wait > for the flower to open. > > From leo@possi.org Thu, 27 Feb 2014 13:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Z. candida (was Zephyranthes citrina vs. flavissima) Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 12:45:24 -0800 (PST) Z. candida survives blazing Arizona summer sun (even up to 122 F / 50C) in a 1 gallon black plastic container, in any kind of soil, so long as it isn't dry for more than two weeks at a time. It goes dormant under such abuse but regrows leaves quickly after watering. If kept watered it is evergreen. It was not defoliated in the winter of 2012-2013 through 6 nights into the mid teens F / -7C. So, those of you with growing areas too hot and sunny for other things can consider putting this in that spot. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From voltaire@islandnet.com Thu, 27 Feb 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Long-lasting Narcissus romieuxii Date: Thu, 27 Feb 2014 17:13:33 -0800 Whenever I become aware that a flower has been open in the garden for a very long time, I can never tell exactly how long. I can't this time, either, but five weeks ago I took some visitors outside to show them the flowers of Narcissus romieuxii which had already been open for a while. They've since endured snow and strong winds, but they are still flowering. Amazing endurance. Such a contrast to the many South African bulbs which remain open for only a few hours. Diane Whitehead Victoria, B.C., Canada cool mediterranean climate mild dry summers, mild rainy winters From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Fri, 28 Feb 2014 09:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: <1460603100.29095.1393606376657.JavaMail.www@wwinf1p19> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Long-lasting Narcissus romieuxii Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 17:52:56 +0100 (CET) Every year I get three months of flowers on Galanthus reginae-olgae 'Tileburn Jamie'. This must be the longest flowering snowdrop I have ever seen. It starts in early October and ends in late January. Mark W. Brown 76119 Sainte Marguerite-sur-mer, France " Message du 28/02/14 02:14 > De : "Diane Whitehead" > A : "PBS" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Long-lasting Narcissus romieuxii > > Whenever I become aware that a flower has been open in the garden for a very long time, I can never tell exactly how long. > > I can't this time, either, but five weeks ago I took some visitors outside to show them the flowers of Narcissus romieuxii which had already been open for a while. > > They've since endured snow and strong winds, but they are still flowering. Amazing endurance. > > Such a contrast to the many South African bulbs which remain open for only a few hours. > > > Diane Whitehead > Victoria, B.C., Canada" _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Fri, 28 Feb 2014 13:17:07 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: SOLAS GARDENS ??? Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 15:24:07 -0500 Are they still in business? Anyone have a current contact email for them? From faeden4444@sbcglobal.net Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <1393624831.89272.YahooMailNeo@web181602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: SOLAS GARDENS ??? Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 14:00:31 -0800 (PST) It sure looks like it per their website:  http://www.solasgardens.com/.  However, here's a note on Dave's Garden indicating they're closed:  http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/5766/.  If you do contact them and find that they are open for business, it would help to let them know that Dave's Garden considers them closed. Hope this helps. ________________________________ From: Jude Haverington To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, February 28, 2014 12:24 PM Subject: [pbs] SOLAS GARDENS ??? Are they still in business? Anyone have a current contact email for them? From michaelcmace@gmail.com Fri, 28 Feb 2014 16:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: <02cf01cf34db$c522ad20$4f680760$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Long-flowering bulbs Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 15:21:10 -0800 Diane wrote: >Whenever I become aware that a flower has been open in the garden for a very long time, I can never tell exactly how long. I can't remember if we ever had a discussion on the list about bulbs that bloom for a ridiculously long time, but if we did it was years ago, and we've had a lot of turnover on the list. So I think it might be a good topic if anyone else is interested. Obviously there will be different winners in different climates, but two that stand out for me are: --Moraea polystachya (blooms profusely from late summer to mid-winter). ---Some of the Oxalis obtusa hybrids (start in fall and still in bloom now). My best performer is a pink and yellow unnamed one that I got from Siskiyou Rare Plants more than a decade ago. Any other nominees? Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From voltaire@islandnet.com Fri, 28 Feb 2014 16:17:06 -0800 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Long-flowering bulbs Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2014 16:15:29 -0800 I think we should take care to distinguish individual flowers that remain in bloom a very long time (like my Narcissus romieuxii which last at least 6 weeks in the garden) from plants that have short-lived flowers but continue to open new flowers over a long period. Someone could even do some research on the causes. Is it my cloudy skies and lack of pollinators? Are the flowers patiently awaiting pollination? Diane Whitehead Victoria, B.C., Canada cool mediterranean climate mild dry summers, mild rainy winters On 2014-02-28, at 3:21 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > Obviously there will be different winners in different climates, but two > that stand out for me are: > > --Moraea polystachya (blooms profusely from late summer to mid-winter). > > ---Some of the Oxalis obtusa hybrids (start in fall and still in bloom now). > My best performer is a pink and yellow unnamed one that I got from Siskiyou > Rare Plants more than a decade ago.