From pelarg@aol.com Wed, 01 Jun 2016 09:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1550c923e7a-6504-fcf6@webprd-a64.mail.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: Pacific Coast Irises in the east-trials Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 11:25:58 -0400 Hi Kathleen, I would definitely be interested in trialing and working with more PCIs here, feel free to send my name and email along to Garry. The purple one I have is not anywhere as fancy as some of the latest hybrids but it has been thru some very odd weather over the years. Summers are humid and rather wet compared to elsewhere, we get hot days too, but really hot weather is usually limited to a few days or maybe a week. I think we did hit over 100 a few years ago when I was growing that particular iris at the old house about 20 miles away. In my limited experience transplanting PCIs can be a bit more difficult than many other irises because they don't like to be moved especially when it is hot and wet. They don't have the resilience that bearded iris have with there nearly indestructible thick rhizomes. As an example of TBI toughness, I got some rhizomes from my sister in Charlotte NC from an iris garden she had on the house she brought. They grow in horrible red clay, and she had them thinned out and a bunch were sitting in a plastic garbage can since last summer. It apparently had a leak so water didn't accumulate and when I went down there in March the irises were still alive after sitting out all fall and winter. Took some back with me and now they are establishing in another difficult spot on my property where we had a maple tree removed and the stump ground, so its full of bark chips. They look fine! Ernie DeMarie NY where camassias are finishing up Ernie’s comment, I am of the opinion that if enough people in the east try and grow PCIs from seed nature will select those that are best adapted for our conditions, is correct. We have some west coast growers looking for east coast gardeners to work with to improve hardiness in PCI. In our next issue of Pacific Iris, there will be a request for this from Garry Knipe, a hybridizer in Cupertino, CA, who is looking for eastern partners. PCI also intensely dislike hot, humid summer conditions, which gardeners may read as die quickly under these circumstances. This keeps them from being grown in much of the south to east portions of north america. Kathleen _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From totototo@telus.net Wed, 01 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <574EC83F.12315.4AAA@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Pacific Coast Irises Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 11:34:23 -0700 > [Iris douglasiana has] a much longer time in my garden than Iris > unguicularis... About 25 years ago, I was ill with hepatitis that required weekly visits to the doctor. From early December when I was diagnosed to the end of February I took his receptionist a weekly bouquet of I. unquicularis. It was a fairly mild winter that year, no sub-freezing temperatures to speak of, and my patch of this lovely iris pumped out flowers continuously all that time. I'm tempted to tease Mary Sue about having an inferior form on her hands, but being a Very Nice guy I won't even mention the subject. The interesting thing about I.u. is that though I acquired several supposed cultivars of it over the years, they all looked the same except for a white=flowered form that didn't survive. Growing conditions: the bed is at the foot of a white stucco house wall facing south and which gets full sun day long. Soil is a non-sticky-when-wet blonde clay that the glacier left behind 10,000 years ago, with horrible blue marine clay 9-10' down. Being at the foot of a house walls means that the bed is partially protected from rain, and the house perimeter drains keep it from getting too wet in winter. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 01 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Pacific Coast Irises in the east Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 14:49:16 -0400 My attempts to grow PCI have failed here in SW Ohio, but I begged pollen from Garry and Ryan (Grisso) in 2010. I tried pollinating Siberians but didn't get any takes. I just discovered I still had a lot of the pollen & so this year I have put it on everything -- versicolor, virginica, foetidissima, prismatica, Siberian, tridentata, fulva, brevicaulis, .... in the hopes of getting some hybrid seeds. Pods are actually forming, but there's no guarantee they contain any viable seeds. I'll let you know in 3 years when I start getting blooms from this year's harvest! ;-) Irritatingly, another western iris I've tried & failed with more than a dozen times now is Iris missouriensis. I don't know why it won't grow for me in Ohio. Maybe critters are eating them in winter? Dennis in Cincinnati On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 11:03 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > Ernie’s comment, I am of the opinion that if enough people in the east > try and grow PCIs from seed nature will select those that are best adapted > for our conditions, is correct. > > We have some west coast growers looking for east coast gardeners to work > with to improve hardiness in PCI. In our next issue of Pacific Iris, there > will be a request for this from Garry Knipe, a hybridizer in Cupertino, CA, > who is looking for eastern partners. > > PCI also intensely dislike hot, humid summer conditions, which gardeners > may read as die quickly under these circumstances. This keeps them from > being grown in much of the south to east portions of north america. > > Kathleen > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 01 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1055191183.2481454.1464807476976.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Pacific Coast Irises Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2016 18:57:56 +0000 (UTC) Roger, that's nothing to what I get in Maryland: Iris unguicularis usually starts to bloom in mid- to late November and has been known to push up buds into early April.  My plant is in a cold frame nestled against the SW  side of the house, in the rain shadow of the roof overhang.Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where spuria hybrid irises are about to bloom.  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fasuamo@hotmail.com Thu, 02 Jun 2016 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Fabio Francisco Suarezmotta Subject: (sin asunto) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 13:20:46 +0000 dear Jane Mc Gary, Pbs coordinator, 2 months do not receive messages lists Pbs ago, I want to continue receiving, also please and tells me if received the value of the subscription -Pbs, Greetings Fabio F Suarezmotta, email: fasuamo @ hotmail.com From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Thu, 02 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1440fcd2-7bbf-1918-a450-44f23f57bf8a@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: missing posts (was sin asunto) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 15:28:32 +0100 Hi, On 02/06/2016 14:20, Fabio Francisco Suarezmotta wrote: > dear Jane Mc Gary, Pbs coordinator, 2 months do not receive messages lists Pbs ago, I want to continue receiving, also please and tells me You can check if your list subscription is bouncing by visiting http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change (Fabio - I looked it is not bouncing) After that it is likely that your email account or provider is filing PBS list posts as spam - check your spam folder. It is often possible to set up email accounts to "whitelist" postings - in other words you tell the email system that posts from the PBS are never to be considered as spam. I explain how to do this for gmail here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/PbsListNotes But you could Google hotmail whitelist In general if you suspect problems look at the list archive to see if there have been postings: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Archive and get in touch with a list administrator: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/contact.html?contact=davidpilling And if like me you're thinking "sin asunto" is form of sinning yet to be discovered, it means "no subject" 8-( -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 02 Jun 2016 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: possible change - now Ledebouria Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2016 20:14:51 +0100 My experience of Ledebouria cooperi is that it is hardy to minus ten centigrade, but not minus fifteen. I did not grow it with frost protection. Peter (UK) On 23 May 2016 at 18:34, wrote: > Hi Robin, > It would certainly be hardy in Zone 9. Here we are the edge of zone 7/8 > in central/northern westchester county in NY. We got a low of -3F this > winter according to accuweather. > > > > From theladygardens@aol.com Thu, 02 Jun 2016 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <15514a0de3b-67aa-21a6@webprd-m49.mail.aol.com> From: "," Subject: Where to order Tall Bearded Irises Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 00:58:54 -0400 Order from the best hybridizers. These are: Joe Ghio at Bay View Gardens, catalog $3 get extras if you order. He is the leading hybridizer of Pacific Coast Iris. Keith Keppel, catalog $3 I think. Barry Blyth in Australia - Tempo Two catalog. You can order Blyth iris from these other hybridizers saving you the import cost. Mt Plesant with Chad Harris's iris, lots of water iris, Japanese iris as well as TB. Mid-America, large catalog $5 I think, showing iris of Tom Johnson and Paul Black. Aitken's Salmon Creek Garden, Terry Aitken, lots of variety of the different types, both bearded and non-bearded. Superstition Iris Gardens with Rick Tasco and Roger Duncan introductions, they also care lots of antique iris and some Aril bred. These are all award winning hybridizers who know what they are doing, honest, etc. There are lots of other iris sellers, some good some not. The catalogs are worth it and when you order, the cost of the catalog is either refunced or shows up in extra iris you receive. Carolyn Craft -----Original Message----- From: The Silent Seed To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, May 31, 2016 12:44 pm Subject: [pbs] Tall Bearded Irises The iris tangent has me wondering if anyone can recommend some sources for TBI's - other than Blue J and Schreiner's. I have been building a large collection of these with about 50 so far, and want to expand upon that. Thanks, Jude -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 03 Jun 2016 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <27023143-a957-9843-79b7-8e84e7f9845b@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: Plant sensors Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 15:53:51 +0100 Hi, Recently plant sensors have started to appear. This is a one sensor per plant which records temperature, light, moisture and nutrient levels. Potentially these can put an end to all the anecdotal evidence which dogs bulb growing. When I say "warm and wet" it means something completely different to someone who lives in a different climate. Anyway I want you to know that we will be happy to host records from plant sensors on the PBS wiki. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From hk@icarustrading.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: From HK Subject: Plant sensors Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 11:17:31 -0400 Where can I get a plant sensor? On Friday, June 3, 2016, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Recently plant sensors have started to appear. This is a one sensor per > plant which records temperature, light, moisture and nutrient levels. > > Potentially these can put an end to all the anecdotal evidence which dogs > bulb growing. When I say "warm and wet" it means something completely > different to someone who lives in a different climate. > > Anyway I want you to know that we will be happy to host records from plant > sensors on the PBS wiki. > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From Chad.Schroter@sandisk.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Chad Schroter Subject: Plant sensors Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 15:51:38 +0000 I got an Easy Bloom Plant sensor several years ago, I have used it sporadically - just for light and temperature readings - not concerned with moisture or humidity. As I am away all day it was helpful in recording what goes on... It was helpful in finding which windows in my house had the best light - combined with supplemental lighting - at different times of year. I used it to check my greenhouse ventilation and shading over several days. It confirmed that some areas of the yard did not get enough full sun (though just observing plants will usually suffice). It was not expensive and seems durable. The raw information is most useful, the website will also analyze your data and make (very limited) plant suggestions. Chad Schroter -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of From HK Sent: Friday, June 03, 2016 8:18 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Plant sensors Where can I get a plant sensor? On Friday, June 3, 2016, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Recently plant sensors have started to appear. This is a one sensor > per plant which records temperature, light, moisture and nutrient levels. > > Potentially these can put an end to all the anecdotal evidence which > dogs bulb growing. When I say "warm and wet" it means something > completely different to someone who lives in a different climate. > > Anyway I want you to know that we will be happy to host records from > plant sensors on the PBS wiki. > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > PLEASE NOTE: The information contained in this electronic mail message is intended only for the use of the designated recipient(s) named above. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that you have received this message in error and that any review, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify the sender by telephone or e-mail (as shown above) immediately and destroy any and all copies of this message in your possession (whether hard copies or electronically stored copies). From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 03 Jun 2016 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Plant sensors Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 17:08:43 +0100 Hi, On 03/06/2016 16:17, From HK wrote: > Where can I get a plant sensor? http://www.parrot.com/uk/products/flower-power/ http://postscapes.com/wireless-plant-sensors -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From ds429@frontier.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <886236.3983.bm@smtp112.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 14:19:40 -0400 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com   Include "BX 400" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Ina Crossley: ALL SEEDS   1.       Habranthus tubispathus rosea 2.       Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3.       Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4.       Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5.       Habranthus sp., blue 6.       Habranthus robustus  ‘Russell Manning’ 7.       Habranthus x floryi, green throat 8.       Habranthus magnoi 9.       Habranthus brachyandrus 10.   Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot 11.   Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers 12.   Rhodophiala bifida 13.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ 14.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ 15.   Zephyranthes fosteri, pink 16.   Zephyranthes fosteri, white 17.   Zephyranthes flavissima 18.   Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi 19.   Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers 20.   Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ 21.   Zephyranthes jonesii 22.   Zephyranthes drummondii 23.   Zephyranthes ‘Sunset Strain’ Thank you, Ina !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From john.bartlett72@yahoo.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1000433091.4541012.1464980830357.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: John bartlett Subject: BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 19:07:10 +0000 (UTC) Dear Mr. Sherk,  From BX 400 please send me one each of Nos: 03,   10,   11,   15,   16.  Thanks, John Bartlett. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From avbeek1@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: a van beek Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 21:59:58 +0200 Hi Dell, I would like to receive seeds from every number donated by Ina Regards, Aad van Beek G.C. Marshallstraat 30 9728WS Groningen On 6/3/2016 8:19 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 400" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > > Dell's email address > ds429@frontier.com > > Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > From Ina Crossley: ALL SEEDS > > 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea > 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5. Habranthus sp., blue > 6. Habranthus robustus ‘Russell Manning’ > 7. Habranthus x floryi, green throat > 8. Habranthus magnoi > 9. Habranthus brachyandrus > 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 12. Rhodophiala bifida > 13. Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ > 14. Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ > 15. Zephyranthes fosteri, pink > 16. Zephyranthes fosteri, white > 17. Zephyranthes flavissima > 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi > 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers > 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ > 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > 22. Zephyranthes drummondii > 23. Zephyranthes ‘Sunset Strain’ > > Thank you, Ina !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jazamah@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: jose zaldivar Subject: BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 20:10:08 +0000 Hello Dell Please send me the next seeds 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5. Habranthus sp., blue 8. Habranthus magnoi 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers 21. Zephyranthes jonesii 22. Zephyranthes drummondii Jose Abraham Zaldivar Martinez S. Diaz Miron 519 Col. Centro Coatzacoalcos, Ver. CP 96400 Mexico ________________________________________ De: pbs en nombre de Dell Sherk Enviado: viernes, 3 de junio de 2016 06:19 p. m. Para: pbs Asunto: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com Include "BX 400" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Ina Crossley: ALL SEEDS 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5. Habranthus sp., blue 6. Habranthus robustus ‘Russell Manning’ 7. Habranthus x floryi, green throat 8. Habranthus magnoi 9. Habranthus brachyandrus 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers 12. Rhodophiala bifida 13. Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ 14. Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ 15. Zephyranthes fosteri, pink 16. Zephyranthes fosteri, white 17. Zephyranthes flavissima 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ 21. Zephyranthes jonesii 22. Zephyranthes drummondii 23. Zephyranthes ‘Sunset Strain’ Thank you, Ina !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From mdoming@gmail.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 14:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <6347B213-C1DA-4EFB-B603-116E127CC5EA@gmail.com> From: =?windows-1252?Q?V=EDctor_Men=E9ndez_Dom=EDnguez?= Subject: BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 15:15:04 -0500 jajajaja casi coincidimos… 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5. Habranthus sp., blue 8. Habranthus magnoi 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > El 03/06/2016, a las 3:10 p.m., jose zaldivar escribió: > > Hello Dell > > Please send me the next seeds > > 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5. Habranthus sp., blue > 8. Habranthus magnoi > 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > 22. Zephyranthes drummondii > > Jose Abraham Zaldivar Martinez > S. Diaz Miron 519 > Col. Centro > Coatzacoalcos, Ver. CP 96400 > Mexico > > > > ________________________________________ > De: pbs en nombre de Dell Sherk > Enviado: viernes, 3 de junio de 2016 06:19 p. m. > Para: pbs > Asunto: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 > > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 400" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > > Dell's email address > ds429@frontier.com > > Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > From Ina Crossley: ALL SEEDS > > 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea > 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5. Habranthus sp., blue > 6. Habranthus robustus ‘Russell Manning’ > 7. Habranthus x floryi, green throat > 8. Habranthus magnoi > 9. Habranthus brachyandrus > 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 12. Rhodophiala bifida > 13. Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ > 14. Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ > 15. Zephyranthes fosteri, pink > 16. Zephyranthes fosteri, white > 17. Zephyranthes flavissima > 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi > 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers > 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ > 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > 22. Zephyranthes drummondii > 23. Zephyranthes ‘Sunset Strain’ > > Thank you, Ina !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 03 Jun 2016 14:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <50cf9a12-70cf-bd0e-c185-0a428eab8fa9@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: How to apply for BX items ... Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 21:34:27 +0100 Hi, I know this causes irritation all ways - if you want items from the BX, reply directly to Dell - do not reply to the list. As it says in the BX announcement: mailto: ds429@frontier.com Include "BX 400" in the subject line. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From jazamah@hotmail.com Fri, 03 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: jose zaldivar Subject: BX 400 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2016 21:39:20 +0000 si verdad? a ver cuales nos envian. Saludos ________________________________________ De: pbs en nombre de Víctor Menéndez Domínguez Enviado: viernes, 3 de junio de 2016 08:15 p. m. Para: Pacific Bulb Society Asunto: Re: [pbs] BX 400 jajajaja casi coincidimos… 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5. Habranthus sp., blue 8. Habranthus magnoi 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > El 03/06/2016, a las 3:10 p.m., jose zaldivar escribió: > > Hello Dell > > Please send me the next seeds > > 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5. Habranthus sp., blue > 8. Habranthus magnoi > 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > 22. Zephyranthes drummondii > > Jose Abraham Zaldivar Martinez > S. Diaz Miron 519 > Col. Centro > Coatzacoalcos, Ver. CP 96400 > Mexico > > > > ________________________________________ > De: pbs en nombre de Dell Sherk > Enviado: viernes, 3 de junio de 2016 06:19 p. m. > Para: pbs > Asunto: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 > > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 400" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > > Dell's email address > ds429@frontier.com > > Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > From Ina Crossley: ALL SEEDS > > 1. Habranthus tubispathus rosea > 2. Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3. Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4. Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5. Habranthus sp., blue > 6. Habranthus robustus ‘Russell Manning’ > 7. Habranthus x floryi, green throat > 8. Habranthus magnoi > 9. Habranthus brachyandrus > 10. Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11. Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 12. Rhodophiala bifida > 13. Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ > 14. Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ > 15. Zephyranthes fosteri, pink > 16. Zephyranthes fosteri, white > 17. Zephyranthes flavissima > 18. Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi > 19. Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers > 20. Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ > 21. Zephyranthes jonesii > 22. Zephyranthes drummondii > 23. Zephyranthes ‘Sunset Strain’ > > Thank you, Ina !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Sat, 04 Jun 2016 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <797591014.4801267.1465037752033.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: PBS BX 400 CLOSED Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 10:55:52 +0000 (UTC) Supplies ran out fast. Packages should go out in a week or so. Enjoy, Dell From ds429@frontier.com Sat, 04 Jun 2016 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1377571473.4923415.1465042203760.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 12:10:03 +0000 (UTC) I have received your order. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 6/3/16, a van beek wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Friday, June 3, 2016, 3:59 PM Hi Dell, I would like to receive seeds from every number donated by Ina Regards, Aad van Beek G.C. Marshallstraat 30 9728WS Groningen On 6/3/2016 8:19 PM, Dell Sherk wrote: > Dear All, > >        The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto: ds429@frontier.com >    > Include "BX 400" in the subject line. > > >          Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > >      Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > >          If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > > Dell's email address > ds429@frontier.com > > Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > >              I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > >  From Ina Crossley:  ALL SEEDS >    > 1.       Habranthus tubispathus rosea > 2.       Habranthus tubispathus variabile > 3.       Habranthus tubispathus, blue > 4.       Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white > 5.       Habranthus sp., blue > 6.       Habranthus robustus  ‘Russell Manning’ > 7.       Habranthus x floryi, green throat > 8.       Habranthus magnoi > 9.       Habranthus brachyandrus > 10.   Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot > 11.   Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers > 12.   Rhodophiala bifida > 13.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ > 14.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ > 15.   Zephyranthes fosteri, pink > 16.   Zephyranthes fosteri, white > 17.   Zephyranthes flavissima > 18.   Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi > 19.   Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers > 20.   Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ > 21.   Zephyranthes jonesii > 22.   Zephyranthes drummondii > 23.   Zephyranthes  ‘Sunset Strain’ > > Thank you, Ina !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Sat, 04 Jun 2016 06:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <1021287905.4696311.1465042401002.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX 400 Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 12:13:20 +0000 (UTC) I have received your order. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX -------------------------------------------- On Fri, 6/3/16, jose zaldivar wrote: Subject: [pbs] BX 400 To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Friday, June 3, 2016, 4:10 PM Hello Dell Please send me the next seeds 2.       Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3.       Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4.       Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5.       Habranthus sp., blue 8.       Habranthus magnoi 10.   Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot 11.   Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers 21.   Zephyranthes jonesii 22.   Zephyranthes drummondii Jose Abraham Zaldivar Martinez S. Diaz Miron 519 Col. Centro Coatzacoalcos, Ver. CP 96400 Mexico ________________________________________ De: pbs en nombre de Dell Sherk Enviado: viernes, 3 de junio de 2016 06:19 p. m. Para: pbs Asunto: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 400 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com Include "BX 400" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Ina Crossley:  ALL SEEDS 1.       Habranthus tubispathus rosea 2.       Habranthus tubispathus variabile 3.       Habranthus tubispathus, blue 4.       Habranthus tubispathus, pale yellow – white 5.       Habranthus sp., blue 6.       Habranthus robustus  ‘Russell Manning’ 7.       Habranthus x floryi, green throat 8.       Habranthus magnoi 9.       Habranthus brachyandrus 10.   Rhodophiala bakeri, apricot 11.   Rhodophiala bifida, many flowers 12.   Rhodophiala bifida 13.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Sunset in Oz’ 14.   Tigridia pavonia ‘Alba’ 15.   Zephyranthes fosteri, pink 16.   Zephyranthes fosteri, white 17.   Zephyranthes flavissima 18.   Zephyranthes sp. ex Paul Niemi 19.   Zephyranthes sp. ex John Fellers 20.   Zephyranthes ‘Bangkok Pink’ 21.   Zephyranthes jonesii 22.   Zephyranthes drummondii 23.   Zephyranthes  ‘Sunset Strain’ Thank you, Ina !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 04 Jun 2016 10:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Thelymitra plants Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 10:11:10 -0700 The following inquiry came via the PBS website. If you would like to write to Eduardo Costa about the genus Thelymitra, please write to him at the address below. Jane McGary, PBS -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: PBS website contact:Thelymitra plants Date: 03 Jun 2016 20:21:15 -0400, Fri, 3 Jun 2016 20:21:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Apache Reply-To: Eduardo Costa To: janemcgary@earthlink.net This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hello, good night. I would like to know how to contact members who grow Thelymitra species. Its for my collection, not a commercial transaction. Best regards, Eduardo (Brasil) 21995540985 (watsapp user) -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 12:00:28 -0500 Dear Friends, I am not known for easy or sane projects, but I hope I can some help on HOW EXTREME I can go with Drimia maritime here in Kansas City Zone 5/6. Last fall I was given a huge bulb in leaf that I ketp in full leaf over the winter in my frost free greenhouse. Once the temps warmed I brought it out into full sun and it looked very happy - rich green firm foliage. Now the foliage is almost totally dried and brown. I have read that it shoiuld get NO RAIN and HIT DRY Summers. I have put a transparent bell jar over the entire bulb and pot . There is a tiny vent opening near the top of the bell jar. Almost no rain can get in, but I noticed there is some condensation inside on dewy morning. The temps are going toward daily highs of 80 to 90 as summer approaches. I assume the temp in the bell jar can get quite HOT. I do not plan on any water until I see some sign of growth-later. I haven’t measured the heat in the bell jar, but I am sure it is already over 100 F. So How hot is TOO HOT ? Appreciate any thoughts from those who actually grow and bloom this beast. Best jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 05 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <26617734.576969.1465146700007.JavaMail.root@tvweb133060.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2016 12:11:39 -0500 (CDT) Jim: I can give a corollary I grow some Ledebourias and they seem to flourish in the summer greenhouse where it gets to 110 on a sunny day. There is plenty of air flow through open ridge vents and windows on the front side of the greenhouse, a fan runs 24/7. I wet it down once or twice a day when I'm home. I have to water onc or twice a day. They grown in 6 inch plastic pots. I'd be careful you don't par boil the thing. The plants have done very well. See here: Hope the link works. http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=13900.msg359364#new Arnold On 06/05/16, James Waddick wrote: Dear Friends, I am not known for easy or sane projects, but I hope I can some help on HOW EXTREME I can go with Drimia maritime here in Kansas City Zone 5/6. Last fall I was given a huge bulb in leaf that I ketp in full leaf over the winter in my frost free greenhouse. Once the temps warmed I brought it out into full sun and it looked very happy - rich green firm foliage. Now the foliage is almost totally dried and brown. I have read that it shoiuld get NO RAIN and HIT DRY Summers. I have put a transparent bell jar over the entire bulb and pot . There is a tiny vent opening near the top of the bell jar. Almost no rain can get in, but I noticed there is some condensation inside on dewy morning. The temps are going toward daily highs of 80 to 90 as summer approaches. I assume the temp in the bell jar can get quite HOT. I do not plan on any water until I see some sign of growth-later. I haven’t measured the heat in the bell jar, but I am sure it is already over 100 F. So How hot is TOO HOT ? Appreciate any thoughts from those who actually grow and bloom this beast. Best jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rdevries@comcast.net Sun, 05 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 13:21:47 -0400 Jim Dirmia marítima grows on the Greek Island in gritty rocky soil with mild damp winters and hot dry summers with a rare rain shower. checking \ temp on these islands where i have see it shows summer days ~75-85F and nights 60-70F I suspect a bell jar over the plant will make a nice mush paste of the bulb it you want it dry, better to put a decent size pane of plate glass 1.5 to 2 feet over the plant so does not cook, construct some wire contraption so it does not fall off or blow away but lets air flow below it . or plant in sun on leeward of structure or rain barrier. Here that is the southeast side of my house. Rimmer SE MI Zone 4-5-6 > On Jun 5, 2016, at 1:00 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > Dear Friends, > > I am not known for easy or sane projects, but I hope I can some help on HOW EXTREME I can go with Drimia maritime here in Kansas City Zone 5/6. > > Last fall I was given a huge bulb in leaf that I ketp in full leaf over the winter in my frost free greenhouse. Once the temps warmed I brought it out into full sun and it looked very happy - rich green firm foliage. > Now the foliage is almost totally dried and brown. I have read that it shoiuld get NO RAIN and HIT DRY Summers. > > I have put a transparent bell jar over the entire bulb and pot . There is a tiny vent opening near the top of the bell jar. Almost no rain can get in, but I noticed there is some condensation inside on dewy morning. > > The temps are going toward daily highs of 80 to 90 as summer approaches. I assume the temp in the bell jar can get quite HOT. I do not plan on any water until I see some sign of growth-later. > > I haven’t measured the heat in the bell jar, but I am sure it is already over 100 F. > > So How hot is TOO HOT ? Appreciate any thoughts from those who actually grow and bloom this beast. Best jim W. > > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 05 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1637363035.1420581.1465148437152.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 17:40:37 +0000 (UTC) Jim Waddick wanted to hear from people who actually grow and bloom Drimia maritima, the sea squill known for centuries as Scilla maritima and then Urginea maritima.I grow it (as of last fall) but it has not yet bloomed for me. So like Jim W I'm curious to hear what others have to say. The foliage began to yellow off two weeks ago and is now almost completely dry.I removed it from its pot and wrapped the root ball (massive root system)  in newspaper. It's now stored on a shelf outside, exposed to the morning sun.Now begins the wait to see if and when it blooms: I'll bet it's oporanthous.  Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, and where spuria irises, Dichelostemma, Allium caeruleum and lots of other odds and ends are blooming under steamy conditions.  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From myixia1@gmail.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 12:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: From: Pamela Slate Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 11:34:52 -0700 Dear Jim, I have a small "field" of D. maritima, probably about 20 now, all planted for many years outdoors in the shade. They aren't protected from summer monsoon rains, tolerate temperatures of 110+ and offset regularly. They flower toward the end of summer, usually August, but not all flower each year. Foliage was still lush at the end of April, dried up completely by mid-May and will return with cooler fall temperatures. My bulbs are planted with the tops exposed an inch or two. On the Mystery Bulb page, there are three photos of flowers in Marrakech that Robert Hoel submitted. I have often thought these are D. maritima and in the background of the third photo there are others. In your climate, Jim, I think I'd be more concerned about too much water/humidity than heat. Two summers ago we had 11 inches of rain from July through September without ill effect to the bulbs although some summers we get as little as two inches. Ours is what I would call good desert dirt compared to other locations - excellent drainage, small gravel and no clay. Over the years, we had many tons of loamy sand hauled in to build gardens, a bit of it there. The point is you might pot it in a similar mix in a very large pot, perhaps one of the nice resin ones Lowe's carries. I'd remove the glass dome Oddly enough - and it's a first - a small D. maritima is shooting up an inflorescence reminiscent of Ledebouria socialis in bud. It's occurring in one of the smaller bulbs. A nice surprise, probably triggered by the current high temperature extremes. Hope this helps, Pamela Slate From guylep@hotmail.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: guy stephane andre l'eplattenier Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 21:12:50 +0000 Around the house I bought in Catalunya / Spain in a olive grove, there was, and there is still a station of hundreds of Drimia / Urginea maritima. Quite a show when they bloom end of August! but not all each year, and nice bright green leaves during the winter. it is an easy, typical mediteranean plant, doing well even in very poor and shallow soils. Leaves are drying off now. It likes being baked in a sunny spot and the trick to make it bloom is to plant it not too deep, with the top at the level of the ground... and it looks nicer if you plant it in small groups , 5, 7 or more together. Guy L'Eplattenier > Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 17:40:37 +0000 > From: jamesamckenney@verizon.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Drimia maritima > > Jim Waddick wanted to hear from people who actually grow and bloom Drimia maritima, the sea squill known for centuries as Scilla maritima and then Urginea maritima.I grow it (as of last fall) but it has not yet bloomed for me. So like Jim W I'm curious to hear what others have to say. The foliage began to yellow off two weeks ago and is now almost completely dry.I removed it from its pot and wrapped the root ball (massive root system) in newspaper. It's now stored on a shelf outside, exposed to the morning sun.Now begins the wait to see if and when it blooms: I'll bet it's oporanthous. > Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, and where spuria irises, Dichelostemma, Allium caeruleum and lots of other odds and ends are blooming under steamy conditions. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 16:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <2D2476FB-7B1F-4097-81D6-9B4BBEA17F86@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 17:35:11 -0500 Thanks for all the comments. It doesn’t sound like anyone in my sort of cllimate has had success blooming them, but I like Pamela Slate’s comments best and they match my ‘less is more’ approach to gardening. I did remove the bell jar covering. It is plenty hot out already. It seems my single bulb is in synchrony with its withered foliage. I’ll keep excessive rain off it (we do have summer storms, but otherwise full sun and no watering will suffice.) I’ll keep that bell jar cover handy for th storms ONLY. and I’ll report back in fall if there’s any flowering stem. I am not optimistic, but maybe Jim McK will have succerss removing the bulb from soil and storing dry. Mine will stay in its pot. Agaian thanks to all the comments. Jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <75DDD76E-CE67-406B-A761-AEF57313C8DF@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 17:54:28 -0700 Hi, all, I received a bunch of oxalis from one of the recent bulb exchanges and have some questions about planting and growing them. Except for That Weed I’ve never grown oxalis before. The following oxalis are listed in the wiki as fall growing: sp. MV 4674, hirta, flava and bowiei. Can I just keep them inside in their plastic bags for the next couple of months before I plant them since they need a summer dry period? We’re working on a new greenhouse and other new yard projects so I’d prefer to wait if I can. I also received Oxalis L 96/42. The wiki link said 96/42 is summer growing (assume winter dormant?) from Mexico. I suppose I should get cracking and plant that one. Any advice on growing my new treasures is appreciated. Jan Jeddeloh. Portland Oregon where it’s pushing 100F, 35C. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Sun, 05 Jun 2016 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <7A71EBDD-8B09-431F-A4C4-371362A4FF43@xtra.co.nz> From: Kiyel Boland Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 13:09:12 +1200 Hi Jan, i would just keep the Fall/ Winter growers dry and pot up just before Fall. Use a open mix for them as they like good drainage. i use a prepared potting mix, and just add more Pumice. Oxalis bowiei can handle a little more water than the rest. I can not help you with the summer growers, as the only ones i have are the weedy ones, and they just grow with out help :). Cheers Kiyel, on a cold day in Norsewood, New Zealand. > On 6/06/2016, at 12:54 pm, Jan Jeddeloh > wrote: > > Hi, all, > I received a bunch of oxalis from one of the recent bulb exchanges and have some questions about planting and growing them. Except for That Weed I’ve never grown oxalis before. > > The following oxalis are listed in the wiki as fall growing: sp. MV 4674, hirta, flava and bowiei. Can I just keep them inside in their plastic bags for the next couple of months before I plant them since they need a summer dry period? We’re working on a new greenhouse and other new yard projects so I’d prefer to wait if I can. > > I also received Oxalis L 96/42. The wiki link said 96/42 is summer growing (assume winter dormant?) from Mexico. I suppose I should get cracking and plant that one. > > Any advice on growing my new treasures is appreciated. > > Jan Jeddeloh. Portland Oregon where it’s pushing 100F, 35C. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ https://www.facebook.com/Savagegardenz _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwickham@sbcglobal.net Sun, 05 Jun 2016 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <265537748.5752590.1465176253948.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: John Wickham Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 01:24:13 +0000 (UTC) DON'T keep them in a plastic bag. That's a sure way to rot them. Pot them up and put the pot in a cool, dry place for the summer. Here in Los Angeles some will start to sprout by August. Mike Mace has a write-up in the List about his treatment of Oxalis that is very helpful. John Wickham On Sunday, June 5, 2016 5:55 PM, Jan Jeddeloh wrote: Hi, all, I received a bunch of oxalis from one of the recent bulb exchanges and have some questions about planting and growing them.  Except for That Weed I’ve never grown oxalis before.  The following oxalis are listed in the wiki as fall growing: sp. MV 4674, hirta, flava and bowiei.  Can I just keep them inside in their plastic bags for the next couple of months before I plant them since they need a summer dry period? We’re working on a new greenhouse and other new yard projects so I’d prefer to wait if I can. I also received Oxalis L 96/42.  The wiki link said 96/42 is summer growing (assume winter dormant?) from Mexico.  I suppose I should get cracking and plant that one. Any advice on growing my new treasures is appreciated. Jan Jeddeloh.  Portland Oregon where it’s pushing 100F, 35C. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From donjournet@netspace.net.au Sun, 05 Jun 2016 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Donald Journet Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 12:02:40 +1000 Hello Jim, I have been growing Drimia/Urginia maritima for many years here in Bacchus Marsh, Victoria, Australia. It is growing in a pot out in the open with a large number of other plants and does not receive any protection from the weather what so ever. Summer here are generally very dry although we did have severe flooding in summer one year more often have bush fires rather than flood. I think I have had more problems from lack of water and the bulb dwindled down to a fraction of its purchased size. I have been making sure that it gets plenty of water as long as it has foliage and this has resulted in the bulb regaining some of its previous size. During summer it gets watered along with the other plants and has not suffered at all. I have also seen bulbs in open beds in the Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne and they look as though they have been in situ a long time. Summers are hot with shade temperatures up to 100 Degrees C much higher in full sun and many of my succulents such as Echeverias, Sedums, Andromischus etc literally cook when in full sun (probably due to soft winter growth and the sun moving to directly overhead), most frustrating. Hope this helps with a southern hemisphere perspective. Regards Don Journet Bacchus Marsh Victoria Australia On 6/06/2016 8:35 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Thanks for all the comments. > > It doesn’t sound like anyone in my sort of cllimate has had success blooming them, but I like Pamela Slate’s comments best and they match my ‘less is more’ approach to gardening. > > I did remove the bell jar covering. It is plenty hot out already. It seems my single bulb is in synchrony with its withered foliage. > > I’ll keep excessive rain off it (we do have summer storms, but otherwise full sun and no watering will suffice.) I’ll keep that bell jar cover handy for th storms ONLY. > > and I’ll report back in fall if there’s any flowering stem. I am not optimistic, but maybe Jim McK will have succerss removing the bulb from soil and storing dry. Mine will stay in its pot. > > Agaian thanks to all the comments. Jim W. > > > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Don Journet Mobile 0439034194 34 Mc Crae Street Maddingley Victoria 3340 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From macjohn@mac.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <32842023-F630-451E-A447-D4FDEA0727CF@mac.com> From: John Willis Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2016 22:09:08 -0400 The Oxalis are pretty good about telling you when they are ready to start growing. I keep my fall/winter bloomers (like bowiei, flava, etc) in pots or bags in the basement until early August (in Maryland). By then, they are already starting to grow. They can also grow in the same pot again, but by the third year they will be bursting with new bulbs. — jw > On Jun 5, 2016, at 9:09 PM, Kiyel Boland wrote: > > Hi Jan, > i would just keep the Fall/ Winter growers dry and pot up just before Fall. Use a open mix for them as they like good drainage. i use a prepared potting mix, and just add more Pumice. > Oxalis bowiei can handle a little more water than the rest. > I can not help you with the summer growers, as the only ones i have are the weedy ones, and they just grow with out help :). > Cheers Kiyel, on a cold day in Norsewood, New Zealand. >> On 6/06/2016, at 12:54 pm, Jan Jeddeloh >> wrote: >> >> Hi, all, >> I received a bunch of oxalis from one of the recent bulb exchanges and have some questions about planting and growing them. Except for That Weed I’ve never grown oxalis before. >> >> The following oxalis are listed in the wiki as fall growing: sp. MV 4674, hirta, flava and bowiei. Can I just keep them inside in their plastic bags for the next couple of months before I plant them since they need a summer dry period? We’re working on a new greenhouse and other new yard projects so I’d prefer to wait if I can. >> >> I also received Oxalis L 96/42. The wiki link said 96/42 is summer growing (assume winter dormant?) from Mexico. I suppose I should get cracking and plant that one. >> >> Any advice on growing my new treasures is appreciated. >> >> Jan Jeddeloh. Portland Oregon where it’s pushing 100F, 35C. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Kiyel Boland > kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz > > savagegardenz.co.nz > > http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ > > https://www.facebook.com/Savagegardenz > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day … MacGardens _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 20:32:09 -0700 I have four blooming sized bulbs in large containers. Placing the containers under my carport, completely dry all summer, and in bright shade, yields certain summer survival. I haven't tried one in the ground, but I think that would be fine here. They not only tolerate our extreme summer temperatures, they even accept an occasional soaking in a monsoon storm, if they don't get sun shining on the container all day. We average almost 5 inches / 140mm of summer monsoon storm precipitation. This falls in three to five heavy storms. The containers will be soaked, but dry out within a few days. Friends in metro Phoenix who have put containers in areas receiving full sun almost all day have killed their bulbs. However, I know they do well in the Los Angeles area in sunny beds in the ground, where they will bake all summer, in temperatures similar to those you describe. Our summer highs are above 104 F / 40C almost every day from mid June to late September, and sometimes it is this hot by early April. (Not this year!) We often have week-long excursions above 110 F / 43.5C. My bulbs often begin sending up bloom spikes in August or September, when daytime temperatures are in the 110 F range. I don't think your temperatures are as extreme, so your bulbs should do just fine outdoors, in dry shade. Outside with air circulation will be far better than in a shed or garage, where temperatures may soar far above those outside. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 05 Jun 2016 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 20:41:37 -0700 I echo the advice to plant winter growers now, but don't water yet. Pot them up in dry mix, and set someplace warm and out of the rain, where you will see them. Especially in cooler Portland, you never know how early they will decide to grow. If they sit in a paper bag or on the shelf, start to sprout when they are ready, and you don't get around to potting them up, they will die. If they are in a pot and sprout, all you have to do is water. Pot up, and water, summer growers ASAP. Oxalis don't keep well past their growing date. They grow extremely well in sand in foam beverage cups you recycle from the office. I grow lots of them in foam 20 and 32 ounce / 600-950ml cups. Remember that the flowers don't open unless sun shines on them. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From donjournet@netspace.net.au Sun, 05 Jun 2016 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Donald Journet Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 15:42:17 +1000 Hello Jim, Some how in the note below I clearly hit the wrong key when referring to temperatures, it should have read 100 deg F. Regards Don Hello Jim, I have been growing Drimia/Urginia maritima for many years here in Bacchus Marsh, Victoria, Australia. It is growing in a pot out in the open with a large number of other plants and does not receive any protection from the weather what so ever. Summer here are generally very dry although we did have severe flooding in summer one year more often have bush fires rather than flood. I think I have had more problems from lack of water and the bulb dwindled down to a fraction of its purchased size. I have been making sure that it gets plenty of water as long as it has foliage and this has resulted in the bulb regaining some of its previous size. During summer it gets watered along with the other plants and has not suffered at all. I have also seen bulbs in open beds in the Royal Botanic Gardens Melbourne and they look as though they have been in situ a long time. Summers are hot with shade temperatures up to 100 Degrees C much higher in full sun and many of my succulents such as Echeverias, Sedums, Andromischus etc literally cook when in full sun (probably due to soft winter growth and the sun moving to directly overhead), most frustrating. Hope this helps with a southern hemisphere perspective. Regards Don Journet Bacchus Marsh Victoria Australia -- Don Journet Mobile 0439034194 34 Mc Crae Street Maddingley Victoria 3340 From avbeek1@hotmail.com Mon, 06 Jun 2016 02:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: a van beek Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 10:35:26 +0200 I planted Oxalis L 96/42 2 weeks ago, watered it thoroughly and is now already flowering outside in full sun. The others I was planning to keep them in paper bags. But based on comments from others here I will plant them in pots today and store them totally dry and warm in a shed till some movement is visible. Aad On 6/6/2016 2:54 AM, Jan Jeddeloh wrote: > Hi, all, > I received a bunch of oxalis from one of the recent bulb exchanges and have some questions about planting and growing them. Except for That Weed I’ve never grown oxalis before. > > The following oxalis are listed in the wiki as fall growing: sp. MV 4674, hirta, flava and bowiei. Can I just keep them inside in their plastic bags for the next couple of months before I plant them since they need a summer dry period? We’re working on a new greenhouse and other new yard projects so I’d prefer to wait if I can. > > I also received Oxalis L 96/42. The wiki link said 96/42 is summer growing (assume winter dormant?) from Mexico. I suppose I should get cracking and plant that one. > > Any advice on growing my new treasures is appreciated. > > Jan Jeddeloh. Portland Oregon where it’s pushing 100F, 35C. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Mon, 06 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <592761fa45602ac84c66d7900a841f64.squirrel@mail.mcn.org> From: msittner@mcn.org Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2016 07:38:49 -0700 (PDT) I donated those bulbs. I keep them in paper bags and then start potting them up as I see them sprouting. This usually is from some time in August into September or with Oxalis obtusa later. They don't all sprout at the same time and they do just fine planted after they are sprouted. I have not lost any keeping them this way, but they are inside and our summer temperatures are mild. Sometimes you can even have a better idea which way to plant them after they have sprouted. On some of them you have to plant sideways since you can't tell which end is up. If they were in a pot I wouldn't know when to start watering them. The one from Mexico has been blooming for me for awhile too. I let it go dormant in winter and was just late in getting the bulbs to the BX. I have some more ready to send soon that are fall to winter blooming so if some of you have already planted them you can try them a different way. As with many of the things we grow there can be more than one way for success. I save my paper bags that are marked with the species name and have been reusing them. Mary Sue From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 07 Jun 2016 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Disa Lugens Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 09:42:57 -0700 The following question came via the PBS website. Please write directly to Ivor Pemberton if you have information about these species. Jane McGary -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: PBS website contact:Disa Lugens Date: 07 Jun 2016 09:55:27 -0400, Tue, 7 Jun 2016 09:55:27 -0400 (EDT) From: Apache Reply-To: Mr Ivor Pemberton To: janemcgary@earthlink.net This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Hello, I was wondering if you could help me with the cultivation details on Disa Lugens. I purchased Disa Lugens and Disa Bracteata at an orchid fair hear in the UK last weekend, and want to make sure I give it the perfect growing condition so that I can enjoy this beautiful orchid. I grow about 30 evergreen Disa but have never grown either of the above. Any advice would be appreciated. Many Thanks Ivor -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 13:52:33 -0400 Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. Thanks! Jude -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <9B9E4CCE-9DB6-42A2-BFA6-5EB2AEB3A56E@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 13:52:35 -0500 Jude it is simple and sad. Hybridizers sell new iris based on a picture of 1 or 2 flowers. They could be breeding for sturdy stems that do not flop, but that is not lucrative. Some do and many do not flop. You best bet is to ask around at your local Iris club which cvs stand up well. Join the club, too. Surprising what their experience can tell and most are eager to share. Rebloom- Most new reblooming hybrids are reliable in CA and OR where they originate. Otherwise it is roulette. There’s two choices: 1) Ask around at Iris club as above or 2) order from local hybridizers who claim rebloom. Mostly it is a delicate balance of climate, watering and fertilizing for best results. and a final piece of advice, don’t believe the hype. Buyer beware. Good luck Jim W. On Jun 7, 2016, at 12:52 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. Thanks! Jude -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 15:07:26 -0400 Thanks, Jim - very interesting and helpful info - I'll have to check into the local Iris club if there's one - Meanwhile I'll just continue to enjoy them. Thanks, Jude On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 2:52 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Jude it is simple and sad. > > Hybridizers sell new iris based on a picture of 1 or 2 flowers. > > They could be breeding for sturdy stems that do not flop, but that > is not lucrative. Some do and many do not flop. > > You best bet is to ask around at your local Iris club which cvs > stand up well. Join the club, too. Surprising what their experience can > tell and most are eager to share. > > > > Rebloom- Most new reblooming hybrids are reliable in CA and OR > where they originate. Otherwise it is roulette. There’s two choices: 1) > Ask around at Iris club as above or 2) order from local hybridizers who > claim rebloom. > > Mostly it is a delicate balance of climate, watering and > fertilizing for best results. > > and a final piece of advice, don’t believe the hype. Buyer > beware. Good luck Jim W. > > > > > > On Jun 7, 2016, at 12:52 PM, The Silent Seed > wrote: > > Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in > (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick > and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? > > Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of > rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. > > Thanks! Jude > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From gklein1@stanford.edu Tue, 07 Jun 2016 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7A52388C-9D91-4D7D-AE7B-D50BBA836B7C@stanford.edu> From: "Gail A. Klein" Subject: Drima Capensis? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 19:33:23 +0000 Does anyone know where to find plants or seeds? Look much like maeitima, lovely swirly leaves. Thanks, Gail From theladygardens@aol.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1552c7d69f3-f31-67f0@webprd-m58.mail.aol.com> From: "," Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 16:11:04 -0400 Buy from reputable hybridizers. Reputable known hybridizers do not introduce iris that flop over. Ghio and Keppel destroy thousands of beautiful iris just because they do things like that. For re=bloomers, it is best to keep them in the same area so you can continue watering them after the first bloom. Giving them a little bit of fertilizer after first bloom isn't necessary but doesn't hurt. Ghio doesn't introduce his as RE because they rebloom here but not reliably other places. There are two hybridizers, I know of, who have a few that rebloom in the east or mid=west, Sutton and Commanche Acres. Carolyn -----Original Message----- From: The Silent Seed To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Tue, Jun 7, 2016 10:54 am Subject: [pbs] Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. Thanks! Jude -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 16:24:07 -0400 Thanks! I had no idea that this was a known "thing" - personally, it won't stop me from buying pretty colored ones - because I can always stake them. I was just curious why it was happening - now it all makes sense! As for reblooming - I had no idea it was dependent upon region - that's quite interesting. They are always very happy, very healthy, just not reblooming - again, this doesn't bother me too much - because I basically don't expect it - so if it was to happen, that would be a bonus. It'll be interesting to see if any are "reliably" reblooming in the New England region. The only one that has ever rebloomed for me is "Immortality." Thanks again for the input! On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 4:11 PM, , wrote: > Buy from reputable hybridizers. Reputable known hybridizers do not > introduce iris that flop over. Ghio and Keppel destroy thousands of > beautiful iris just because they do things like that. For re=bloomers, it > is best to keep them in the same area so you can continue watering them > after the first bloom. Giving them a little bit of fertilizer after first > bloom isn't necessary but doesn't hurt. Ghio doesn't introduce his as RE > because they rebloom here but not reliably other places. There are two > hybridizers, I know of, who have a few that rebloom in the east or > mid=west, Sutton and Commanche Acres. Carolyn > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: The Silent Seed > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Tue, Jun 7, 2016 10:54 am > Subject: [pbs] Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? > > Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in > (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick > and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? > > Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of > rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. > > Thanks! Jude > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 16:25:43 -0400 PS, And that was just a one-time event. Ah well! I do not use any food/fertilizer/chemicals - so I'll just continue to enjoy them in their usual blooming season which is right now. On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 4:24 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > Thanks! I had no idea that this was a known "thing" - personally, it won't > stop me from buying pretty colored ones - because I can always stake them. > I was just curious why it was happening - now it all makes sense! > > As for reblooming - I had no idea it was dependent upon region - that's > quite interesting. They are always very happy, very healthy, just not > reblooming - again, this doesn't bother me too much - because I basically > don't expect it - so if it was to happen, that would be a bonus. > > It'll be interesting to see if any are "reliably" reblooming in the New > England region. > > The only one that has ever rebloomed for me is "Immortality." > > Thanks again for the input! > > On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 4:11 PM, , wrote: > >> Buy from reputable hybridizers. Reputable known hybridizers do not >> introduce iris that flop over. Ghio and Keppel destroy thousands of >> beautiful iris just because they do things like that. For re=bloomers, it >> is best to keep them in the same area so you can continue watering them >> after the first bloom. Giving them a little bit of fertilizer after first >> bloom isn't necessary but doesn't hurt. Ghio doesn't introduce his as RE >> because they rebloom here but not reliably other places. There are two >> hybridizers, I know of, who have a few that rebloom in the east or >> mid=west, Sutton and Commanche Acres. Carolyn >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: The Silent Seed >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Sent: Tue, Jun 7, 2016 10:54 am >> Subject: [pbs] Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? >> >> Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in >> (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a >> quick >> and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? >> >> Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of >> rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. >> >> Thanks! Jude >> >> -- >> The Silent Seed >> Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. >> thesilentseed.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From jane@deskhenge.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <143b2e56-40f0-ea07-b5a5-aba90b8c1101@deskhenge.com> From: Jane Sargent Subject: tall irises flopping over Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 18:02:39 -0400 I live in Massachusetts, zone 5. It´s better not to overfertilize irises, to keep them a bit shorter. Tomato fertilizer is my favorite. I agree that the conditions in which the iris was bred or raised are important. Irises blooming for the first time in my garden may have been overfertilized and tend to grow tall. The second year, they are better. A dank, dark Spring produces taller ones, too. As for rebloomers, California-bred irises, much as I love the bubble ruffles and all, do not rebloom here in Massachusetts for me. The best rebloomer here is an old one, "immortality," white and lovely. Jane _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 17:06:13 -0500 Jude, Take a look at the Reblooming Iris Society web site: http://www.rebloomingiris.com You can have many rebloon in your area. There are some active iris growers in the N. E. Try contacting one of these: http://www.irises.org/About_AIS/Regional_Affiliates/Reg1Aff.html Good luck. Jim W. On Jun 7, 2016, at 3:24 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: As for reblooming - I had no idea it was dependent upon region - that's quite interesting. They are always very happy, very healthy, just not reblooming - again, this doesn't bother me too much - because I basically don't expect it - so if it was to happen, that would be a bonus. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: tall irises flopping over Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 18:06:47 -0400 Jane, I too am in Mass; so we obviously are having similar experiences (as per what you wrote.) Guess I'll just have to go with good old bamboo stakes for a couple of weeks. It's definitely been a "dank dark spring" here for sure - We are still in the low to mid 60's in the morning - which I absolutely love. On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 6:02 PM, Jane Sargent wrote: > I live in Massachusetts, zone 5. > It´s better not to overfertilize irises, to keep them a bit shorter. > Tomato fertilizer is my favorite. > I agree that the conditions in which the iris was bred or raised are > important. Irises blooming for the first time in my garden may have been > overfertilized and tend to grow tall. The second year, they are better. A > dank, dark Spring produces taller ones, too. > As for rebloomers, California-bred irises, much as I love the bubble > ruffles and all, do not rebloom here in Massachusetts for me. The best > rebloomer here is an old one, "immortality," white and lovely. > Jane > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 07 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: The Silent Seed Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2016 18:07:17 -0400 Thank you Jim - I'll check them out tonight after I leave the plant house. Best, Jude On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 6:06 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Jude, Take a look at the Reblooming Iris Society web > site: http://www.rebloomingiris.com > > > You can have many rebloon in your area. > > > > There are some active iris growers in the N. E. Try > contacting one of these: > http://www.irises.org/About_AIS/Regional_Affiliates/Reg1Aff.html < > http://www.irises.org/About_AIS/Regional_Affiliates/Reg1Aff.html> > > Good luck. Jim W. > > > > > > On Jun 7, 2016, at 3:24 PM, The Silent Seed > wrote: > > > > As for reblooming - I had no idea it was dependent upon region - that's > quite interesting. They are always very happy, very healthy, just not > reblooming - again, this doesn't bother me too much - because I basically > don't expect it - so if it was to happen, that would be a bonus. > > > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- The Silent Seed Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. thesilentseed.com From john@jfimages.co.uk Wed, 08 Jun 2016 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: John Fielding Subject: Urginia Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2016 08:05:20 +0100 Hi all, I have grown Urginia maritima (Drimia and more recently Charybdis) for many years in a greenhouse in London with admittedly not any where near enough light because of shade from neighbours trees. As you might imagine our summer temperatures are never a match for their native ones. They do however occasionally flower. It helps if I make an effort and especially when I pot them on though space means this is very rarely. They are left dry for the summer along with most of my other Mediterranean bulbs. John John Fielding JF Images john@jfimages.co.uk From irisquilt@aol.com Wed, 08 Jun 2016 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <4E3F6340-889B-4226-856B-89E0DFBC462C@aol.com> From: irisquilt@aol.com Subject: Tall Irises flopping over - Remedy ? Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 07:00:44 -0400 Sometimes it is weather. This I had 3 that had not flopped before. I agree join a local society. USA has many zones, soils which affects plant growth and this years weather has been crazy in many states. Anna Mae Miller Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 7, 2016, at 3:07 PM, The Silent Seed wrote: > > Thanks, Jim - very interesting and helpful info - I'll have to check into > the local Iris club if there's one - Meanwhile I'll just continue to enjoy > them. > Thanks, Jude > > >> On Tue, Jun 7, 2016 at 2:52 PM, James Waddick wrote: >> >> Jude it is simple and sad. >> >> Hybridizers sell new iris based on a picture of 1 or 2 flowers. >> >> They could be breeding for sturdy stems that do not flop, but that >> is not lucrative. Some do and many do not flop. >> >> You best bet is to ask around at your local Iris club which cvs >> stand up well. Join the club, too. Surprising what their experience can >> tell and most are eager to share. >> >> >> >> Rebloom- Most new reblooming hybrids are reliable in CA and OR >> where they originate. Otherwise it is roulette. There’s two choices: 1) >> Ask around at Iris club as above or 2) order from local hybridizers who >> claim rebloom. >> >> Mostly it is a delicate balance of climate, watering and >> fertilizing for best results. >> >> and a final piece of advice, don’t believe the hype. Buyer >> beware. Good luck Jim W. >> >> >> >> >> >> On Jun 7, 2016, at 12:52 PM, The Silent Seed >> wrote: >> >> Is there an obvious reason that some, but not most, Tall Bearded Irises in >> (the same) garden would flop over (flowering stalks)? And, is there a quick >> and easy method to avoid this - other than staking? >> >> Also - what's the best way to get rebloomers to rebloom? I have a lot of >> rebloomers that do not rebloom when left alone. >> >> Thanks! Jude >> >> -- >> The Silent Seed >> Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. >> thesilentseed.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> Dr. James Waddick >> 8871 NW Brostrom Rd >> Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 >> USA >> Phone 816-746-1949 >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > -- > The Silent Seed > Rare and Unusual plants from around the world. > thesilentseed.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pollards22@yahoo.com Wed, 08 Jun 2016 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1564284045.496027.1465394935806.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Shawn Pollard Subject: Drimia maritima Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 14:08:55 +0000 (UTC) A short story. I used to have a working relationship with the Agriculture department at the college where I teach in Yuma. I had permission to stash a large number of dormant bulbs and Dudleyas, still in their pots, in an air-conditioned greenhouse while my family and I were out of town one summer. (It was the summer before we bought our house and I could finally start planting in the ground after years of carrying all my plants from place to place.) When we returned, I discovered that the air conditioning was turned off and the bulbs had been cooked in their pots like potatoes. (This is Yuma, remember.) Everything was dead -- except for the Drimia maritima and, interestingly, Oxalis drummondii. The sea squills have bulb tunics like kevlar. I have them now growing in the open garden here in Yuma. Shawn Pollard -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 6/5/16, James Waddick wrote: Subject: [pbs] Drimia maritima To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, June 5, 2016, 10:00 AM Dear Friends,     I am not known for easy or sane projects, but I hope I can some help on HOW EXTREME I can go with Drimia maritime here in Kansas City Zone 5/6. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Fri, 10 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <10762.12992.bm@smtp108.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 401 Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 12:39:53 -0400 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com   Include "BX 401" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! ALL SEEDS: From Ina Crossley: 1.       Zephyranthes fosteri, pink/white mix 2.       Zephyranthes katheriniae ‘Rubra’ 3.       Zephyranthes minuta 4.       Zephyranthes verecunda (Mexican), syn. Z. minuta 5.       Zephyranthes citrina 6.       Zephyranthes minima 7.       Zephyranthes mesochloa 8.       Zephyranthes lindleyana 9.       Zephyranthes morrisclintii ‘Red Neck Romance’ 10.   Zephyranthes macrosiphon 11.   Zephyranthes ‘Pink Beauty’ 12.   Zephyranthes dichromantha 13.   Zephyranthes verecunda ‘Rosea’ 14.   Zephyranthes primulina 15.   Zephyranthes smallii 16.   Zephyranthes reginae 17.   Zephyranthes miradorensis    From Pam Slate: 18.   x Hippeastrelia   From Jill Peterson: 19.   Clivia miniata, from a variegated orange flowered clivia crossed with a yellow flowered non-variegated one. From Marvin Ellenbecker: 20. Clivia nobilis 21. Hippeastrum papilio Thank you, Ina, Pam, Jill, and Marvin !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tglavich@sbcglobal.net Fri, 10 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <170622725.798571.1465578287620.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Thomas Glavich Subject: Uramea episea Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 17:04:47 +0000 (UTC) Does anyone know what this was and what it has become.  Normal google searches don't seem to help.  I was repotted a clump labeled Drimia epigea ex M. Vassar, when I found an old label stuck between the roots. Thanks Tom Glavich _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From carlobal@gmail.com Fri, 10 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Carlo A. Balistrieri" Subject: Uramea episea Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 13:08:22 -0400 It looks similar enough that I’d consider it a misspelling of Drimia epigea, Carlo A. Balistrieri President/CCO The Botanical Gardening Group 262.490.6163 carlo@botanicalgardening.com Helping you cure plant blindness one garden at a time > On Jun 10, 2016, at 1:04 PM, Thomas Glavich wrote: > > Does anyone know what this was and what it has become. Normal google searches don't seem to help. I was repotted a clump labeled Drimia epigea ex M. Vassar, when I found an old label stuck between the roots. > Thanks > Tom Glavich > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From robin@no1bird.net Fri, 10 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <6B45143C-FE43-49F0-BBF7-F6499FC78E7F@no1bird.net> From: Robin Carrier Subject: Uramea episea Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 13:20:31 -0400 in his revision of the bulbous Liliaceae of South Africa Jessop (1977) sank Urginea under Drimia. > On Jun 10, 2016, at 1:08 PM, Carlo A. Balistrieri wrote: > > It looks similar enough that I’d consider it a misspelling of Drimia epigea, > > Carlo A. Balistrieri > President/CCO > The Botanical Gardening Group > 262.490.6163 > carlo@botanicalgardening.com > > Helping you cure plant blindness one garden at a time > > > >> On Jun 10, 2016, at 1:04 PM, Thomas Glavich wrote: >> >> Does anyone know what this was and what it has become. Normal google searches don't seem to help. I was repotted a clump labeled Drimia epigea ex M. Vassar, when I found an old label stuck between the roots. >> Thanks >> Tom Glavich >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From prallen2@peoplepc.com Fri, 10 Jun 2016 21:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <15459742.1465618230584.JavaMail.wam@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: patty allen Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 401 Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2016 23:10:30 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Helo Dell, I WOULD LIKE ONE EACH OF THE FOLLOWING: 1-2-3-4-6-7-8-10-11-12-14-15-16-17-19-20 THANKS, PATTY ALLEN 5842 VELMA LANE TEXAS 77396 \ -----Original Message----- >From: Dell Sherk >Sent: Jun 10, 2016 11:39 AM >To: pbs >Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 401 > >Dear All, > >      The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. >If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > >mailto: ds429@frontier.com >  >Include "BX 401" in the subject line. > > >        Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > >    Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > >        If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > >Dell Sherk >55 W. High St. >Salem, WV 26426 >USA > >Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > >ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. > >Dell's email address >ds429@frontier.com > >Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. > > >            I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. >IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > >ALL SEEDS: > >From Ina Crossley: > >1.       Zephyranthes fosteri, pink/white mix >2.       Zephyranthes katheriniae ‘Rubra’ >3.       Zephyranthes minuta >4.       Zephyranthes verecunda (Mexican), syn. Z. minuta >5.       Zephyranthes citrina >6.       Zephyranthes minima >7.       Zephyranthes mesochloa >8.       Zephyranthes lindleyana >9.       Zephyranthes morrisclintii ‘Red Neck Romance’ >10.   Zephyranthes macrosiphon >11.   Zephyranthes ‘Pink Beauty’ >12.   Zephyranthes dichromantha >13.   Zephyranthes verecunda ‘Rosea’ >14.   Zephyranthes primulina >15.   Zephyranthes smallii >16.   Zephyranthes reginae >17.   Zephyranthes miradorensis >  > From Pam Slate: > >18.   x Hippeastrelia >  >From Jill Peterson: > >19.   Clivia miniata, from a variegated orange flowered clivia crossed with a yellow flowered non-variegated one. > > >From Marvin Ellenbecker: > >20. Clivia nobilis >21. Hippeastrum papilio > >Thank you, Ina, Pam, Jill, and Marvin !! > >Best wishes, >Dell > >Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > >Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 06:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <320957.52426.bm@smtp235.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: PBS BX 401 Closed Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 08:16:16 -0400 Packages should go out in a week or so. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <0b3601d1c407$f4e68be0$deb3a3a0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 10:37:40 -0700 (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move along to the next post.) I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. atropunctata, --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea villosa X bellendenii), and --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a very large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any advice or suggestions. Thanks, Mike From dkramb@badbear.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:26:18 -0400 those are simply spectacular! i wish i could grow them in my garden in Ohio! Dennis in Cincinnati On Sat, Jun 11, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move > along > to the next post.) > > > > I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization > experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: > > > > --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. > atropunctata, > > --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea > villosa > X bellendenii), and > > --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a very > large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. > > > > You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: > > http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm > > > > I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: > > http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 > > > > I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any > advice or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From theladygardens@aol.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <155411e699d-78d0-138cc@webprd-a107.mail.aol.com> From: "," Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 16:19:20 -0400 These are beautiful. I don't think they look like amateur work. Just beautiful! -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Kramb To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sat, Jun 11, 2016 12:05 pm Subject: Re: [pbs] New Moraea hybrids, 2016 those are simply spectacular! i wish i could grow them in my garden in Ohio! Dennis in Cincinnati On Sat, Jun 11, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Michael Mace wrote: > (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move > along > to the next post.) > > > > I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization > experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: > > > > --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. > atropunctata, > > --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea > villosa > X bellendenii), and > > --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a very > large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. > > > > You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: > > http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm > > > > I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: > > http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 > > > > I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any > advice or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <000f01d1c420$f8894bc0$e99be340$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 16:36:44 -0400 They are beautiful. > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Michael Mace > Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2016 1:38 PM > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] New Moraea hybrids, 2016 > > (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move > along to the next post.) > > > > I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization > experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: > > > > --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. > atropunctata, > > --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea villosa X > bellendenii), and > > --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a > very large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. > > > > You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: > > http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm > > > > I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: > > http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 > > > > I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any > advice or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From myixia1@gmail.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Pamela Slate Subject: Staganospora curtisii treatment Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 13:37:28 -0700 Hi PBS, I searched the list archives and the Wiki page and read what I could find about treating Staganospora curtisii but didn't find the dilution ratio of water : peroxide or water : bleach Could someone please provide me with those proportions? Thanks very much, Pamela Slate From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 14:11:54 -0700 Mike, once again you've blown us away with your fantastic hybrids. Karl Church Dinuba zone 9b On Jun 11, 2016 10:39 AM, "Michael Mace" wrote: > (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move > along > to the next post.) > > > > I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization > experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: > > > > --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. > atropunctata, > > --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea > villosa > X bellendenii), and > > --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a very > large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. > > > > You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: > > http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm > > > > I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: > > http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 > > > > I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any > advice or suggestions. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Mike > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pelarg@aol.com Sat, 11 Jun 2016 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1554278b985-2be6-15dd6@webprd-a29.mail.aol.com> From: pelarg@aol.com Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 22:37:36 -0400 Hi Mike, Nice work, your hybrids are quite pretty and your data should be useful to those who deal with Moraea classification (successful crosses tend to indicate close relationships between species). Makes sense that your raised beds are working out better than pots, I imagine the strong sun there might make pots get quite hot, whereas the plants in the ground likely experience cooler temps in their root zone. Ernie In NY where three Crinum bulbispermum are blooming along with several kniphofias. -----Original Message----- From: Michael Mace To: pbs Sent: Sat, Jun 11, 2016 8:14 pm Subject: [pbs] New Moraea hybrids, 2016 (My apologies to those who are interested only in species; please move along to the next post.) I've posted photos of the 2016 results from my Moraea hybridization experiments. My favorite new hybrids this year are: --An exuberantly freckled flower from a cross between Moraea 'Zoe' and M. atropunctata, --A flower with a double-ring bullseye pattern in the center (Moraea villosa X bellendenii), and --A cross between Moraea gigandra and M. neopavonia, which produced a very large orange-purple flower with a hypnotic light blue eye. You can see photos of these and a few other highlights here: http://bit.ly/1ZGQZJm I also updated my notes on which Moraea species can cross, here: http://bit.ly/1WJGmY9 I am a total amateur at this plant breeding stuff, and would welcome any advice or suggestions. Thanks, Mike From msittner@mcn.org Sat, 11 Jun 2016 23:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <44801047-2987-3e3b-db2e-e491136afa3f@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: peroxide dilution for Stagnospora Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2016 22:23:17 -0700 Hi Pam, I've changed your subject to correct the spelling of Stagnospora. Jim Shield's gave this suggestion in the post below: "I have on occasion sterilized the infected spot with hydrogen peroxide, usually the drugstore type, 3% H2O2, diluted 1 part to 3." http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/2011-December/dgctnoer1j76lc4i4bv5crupa7.html Mary Sue > I searched the list archives and the Wiki page and read what I could find > about treating Staganospora curtisii but didn't find the dilution ratio of > water : peroxide or water : bleach Could someone please provide me with > those proportions? > From realtreder@gmx.de Sun, 12 Jun 2016 01:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <0d2e9e77-4781-b478-e94c-94008dab793c@gmx.de> From: Christian Wang Subject: Hippeastrum seeds from virus infected plants sterile? Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 09:55:52 +0200 Hello, I was wondering if Hippeastrum seeds are generally sterlie, even if they come from virus infected plants. Does anyone know that? Thanks in advance! best wishes Chris :-) From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 12 Jun 2016 07:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <820367666.1333453.1465738014109.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: peroxide dilution for Stagnospora Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 13:26:54 +0000 (UTC) Isn't the correct spelling of the genus Stagonospora (sta-go-NOS-po-ra)?But I see that some writers use stagnospora as a sort of vernacular name when they write something like this "stagnospora blotch (caused by fungi of the genus Stagonospora)..." Is there a mycologist out there who can give us the definitive version? Jim McKenney From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 12 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Hippeastrum seeds from virus infected plants sterile? Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 07:48:08 -0700 Hello Christian, Seedlings from virused plants should be uninfected. However, to be extra careful, I would soak the seeds in 10% bleach + a little dish soap for 5 minutes, wash well before sowing to remove any viral particles on the surface of the seeds. Nhu On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 12:55 AM, Christian Wang wrote: > Hello, > > I was wondering if Hippeastrum seeds are generally sterlie, even if they > come from virus infected plants. Does anyone know that? > > From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 12 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Staganospora curtisii treatment Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 07:49:43 -0700 Hi Pam, The wiki will help solve your problem: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/StagonosporaCurtisii Best, Nhu On Sat, Jun 11, 2016 at 1:37 PM, Pamela Slate wrote: > Hi PBS, > I searched the list archives and the Wiki page and read what I could find > about treating Staganospora curtisii but didn't find the dilution ratio of > water : peroxide or water : bleach > From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 12 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: peroxide dilution for Stagnospora Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 07:53:02 -0700 Hi Jim, The correct spelling is Stagonospora. I think the vernacular at some point dropped an "o" and was wrongly propagated that way. Best, Nhu On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 6:26 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Isn't the correct spelling of the genus Stagonospora > (sta-go-NOS-po-ra)?But I see that some writers use stagnospora as a sort of > vernacular name when they write something like this "stagnospora blotch > (caused by fungi of the genus Stagonospora)..." > Is there a mycologist out there who can give us the definitive version? > From npublici@yahoo.com Sun, 12 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <79612856.1728576.1465743197802.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: Hippeastrum seeds from virus infected plants sterile? Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 14:53:17 +0000 (UTC) I have a large number of mosaic virus infected Hippeastrum.I have not noticed any lack of fertility in infected plants.Some varieties do have more resistance to the virus than others. I have never lost a plant to the virus,although many are weakened by it.Some do not bloom as reliably because of their weakened state.It is generally thought that papilio is not susecptable to the virus,therefore I am using it to breed resistance. On Sunday, June 12, 2016 3:56 AM, Christian Wang wrote: Hello, I was wondering if Hippeastrum seeds are generally sterlie, even if they come from virus infected plants. Does anyone know that? Thanks in advance! best wishes Chris :-) From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 12 Jun 2016 10:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <8FCE8776-3F2D-42D7-A8A8-326AFC54049D@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: New Moraea hybrids, 2016 Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 09:57:38 -0700 Mike, I very much enjoy seeing the results of this year’s flowering. Have you tried chromatography of the petals to see where the pigments are located in cells? In irises, the cellular sap contains anthocyanins (pinks, purples, blues) and plastids contain carotenoids (yellows of various hues). There is not yet a true red pigment among them––can’t rule out that a ‘red’ will appear at some point. Irises that look red are balanced between colors from plastids and intracellular sap. Moraeas may be similar. The pH of the cell affects the expressed color of the anthocyanins as well, so breeding for color when anthocyanins are used is indirectly selecting for pH. Kathleen From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Sun, 12 Jun 2016 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <716785930.2968050.1465753690917.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: Looking for Griffinia aracensis Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 17:48:10 +0000 (UTC) Dear Bulb-fellasI am looking for a source of Griffinia aracensis. I have been searching for the last couple of years without any luck.I wonder if anybody can help me. RegardsAnders B. PetersenCopenhagen, Denmark From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 12 Jun 2016 14:17:02 -0700 Message-Id: <42d9b9d0-d5ac-1c43-eb37-7d0e7e0bf82a@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: peroxide dilution for Stagnospora Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 08:29:16 +1200 Stagonospora On 13/06/2016 1:26 a.m., Jim McKenney wrote: > Isn't the correct spelling of the genus Stagonospora (sta-go-NOS-po-ra)?But I see that some writers use stagnospora as a sort of vernacular name when they write something like this "stagnospora blotch (caused by fungi of the genus Stagonospora)..." > Is there a mycologist out there who can give us the definitive version? > Jim McKenney > > From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 12 Jun 2016 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <44654FBF-021D-4AAC-B199-8AADCE6E618F@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: alliums Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2016 21:21:52 -0700 Every late spring, allium-lust rises as the irises (pacific coast) quit flowering for the year. I just spent a pleasant few hours re-reading Mark McDonough’s many posts on alliums, and then looking at his website. The one frustration I have is all the selections and hybrids mentioned, with no hint of where to find them. The positive aspect is that I am slowly increasing my own allium collection, and even flowering a few species grown from seed, most of it from the PBS seed exchange. So please, do think about collecting and sending allium seeds to the exchange again this year. Cheers, Kathleen PNW coast, summer dry, winter very wet, zone 8 From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 13 Jun 2016 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ina Crossley Subject: pollinating when pollen is not accepted Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 23:03:41 +1200 As the Paramongia weberbaurii is almost flowering, was trying to work out how to get pollen accepted. Was given the name of Christopher Ong in Australia to ask. His answer is: The idea is to stimulate the ‘pistil’ into accepting potential growing pollen tube. This is quite extraordinary in the plant world. For example, we use to mixed in ‘hibiscus’ pollen with other pollen and just use that without even microwaving or killing the hibiscus pollen first as we know that hibiscus is not compactible with the plant we are trying to pollinate but somehow stimulate the pistil to accept the pollen from like compatible plants. In your case I would suggest using Permianthe peruviana pollen if available. Microwave these pollens for around 1 to 2 minutes to kill them. Let it cool for a minute and then mix that with the Paramongaia pollen before applying. If you do not have other suitable ones then I would suggest using pollen from one plant onto the other. Don’t worry about it being of the same clone (that cannot be help) but treat the component parts as suggested below first. Collect the pollens and then treat then with a dash of diluted nectar from other flowers. Leave it for about half an hour and then apply with a brush. What happen here is that the pollen is already stimulated and the pollen tube may start to grow and develop. Some people also brush the stigma with the same solution about 5 minutes prior to application of the pollen. Such techniques are very subjective and may not work all the time. We had plants that worked one year and not the next. I would suggest doing the pollination in the early morning or evening when the plants should be more receptive. So it is not foolproof, but worth a try. As I had looked over the years how to do this, at least this is from someone who has used this method and sometimes it has worked. Ina Crossley Auckland, New Zealand _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Mon, 13 Jun 2016 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <342215059.3992846.1465836227919.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: Looking for Griffinia aracensis Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 16:43:47 +0000 (UTC) Dear Bulb-fellasI am looking for a source of Griffinia aracensis. I have been searching for the last couple of years without any luck.I wonder if anybody can help me. RegardsAnders B. PetersenCopenhagen, Denmark   _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Mon, 13 Jun 2016 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: dry rot of bulbs in winter storage Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 23:09:59 +0200 Dear All, Potting my winter dormant bulbs and tubers is finished, so I have time again... What happened several times in the past with Begonias only is a strange dry rot that makes the mature tuber go very light weight and spongy and.... dead. It happened again this year but apparently the mother tuber had produces independent small ones which were ok and so numerous that some went to the BX. I discussed that privately with Dylan Hannon and would like to let you all have his answer: Dylan wrote: In dormancy tubers can become too dry. The organic part of the mix (like peat) can become so dry that it can rob the tubers of moisture. For a variety of reasons I like to use sand (~20%) in the mix because it is very neutral and a good insulator overall. Very healthy tubers will endure a lot of abuse including water at the wrong time, but if weak they are more susceptible to everything. Also, the firmness of the soil when planting is very important-- usually the problem is that it is too loose. I can fully understand what he means but as I store my bulbs in their compost in their pot, I practically never lose bulbs because of drying out. This has happened to me in the past if I kept bulbs without compost in a paper bag for example. And, I have not yet found that good sand that is nice and soft. Whenever I tried to use sand it formed a very hard mass somewhere in the pot, mostly in the bottom. What do you think? Has this dry rot also happened to your bulbs? Thank you very much and bye for today Uli From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 13 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Steven Hart Subject: dry rot of bulbs in winter storage Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 07:39:48 +1000 Hello i live on a sharp rock escarpment mountain cap that is extreme in weather conditions & void of topsoil except for the 30cm or so I've slowly accumulated. I have experienced what you do scribe as dry rot almost every year for many, not that drying in our reagan of Australia has become the normal weather pattern. There is always exceptions to the rule but the problem isn't dry rot in my case it's simply dehydration because my soil becomes grossly aqua phobic during these extended dry years, & it is impossible to give enough water to my large variety of bulbs at the correct moisture levels to keep everyone happy. I have seen baseball size belladonna reduce to the size of a pickled onion in a few year dry spell. I've had 5kg Crinum scant end slowly dehydrate over a 7 year cemi dry period to a fraction of it's size & many other examples, even little freesias completely dehydrating to dead over a few years of dehydration. Even stored bulbs can quickly dehydrate if placed in too dry conditions. It's important to know your bulbs requirements, think about their natural habitats & check bulb condition regularly during storage & also occasionally check water penetration levels if you grow in ground & have aqua-phobic problems. I have now been slowly adjusting my problem with stone edging to address evaporation & penetration by making sand plugs to trowel depth & have been improving the water retention with brown & red rainforest ferro soils & verto-soils with variable clay contents, these are very rich in mineral content & productive growth on bulbs, flowering & cemi moist dormancy have improved beyond what I could have ever imagined. My offset risk is, if we get consecutive wet seasons I may have to dig the odd bulb in wetter spots but the reward has been exceptional :) Steven Hart Treats 4 Dogs Hart's Entwine Nuts & Dried Fruits Hart's Temple Oils > On 14 Jun 2016, at 7:09 am, Johannes Ulrich Urban wrote: > > Dear All, > > > Potting my winter dormant bulbs and tubers is finished, so I have time again... > > What happened several times in the past with Begonias only is a strange dry rot that makes the mature tuber go very light weight and spongy and.... dead. It happened again this year but apparently the mother tuber had produces independent small ones which were ok and so numerous that some went to the BX. > > I discussed that privately with Dylan Hannon and would like to let you all have his answer: > > > Dylan wrote: In dormancy tubers can become too dry. The organic part of the mix (like peat) can become so dry that it can rob the tubers of moisture. For a variety of reasons I like to use sand (~20%) in the mix because it is very neutral and a good insulator overall. Very healthy tubers will endure a lot of abuse including water at the wrong time, but if weak they are more susceptible to everything. Also, the firmness of the soil when planting is very important-- usually the problem is that it is too loose. > > > I can fully understand what he means but as I store my bulbs in their compost in their pot, I practically never lose bulbs because of drying out. This has happened to me in the past if I kept bulbs without compost in a paper bag for example. > > And, I have not yet found that good sand that is nice and soft. Whenever I tried to use sand it formed a very hard mass somewhere in the pot, mostly in the bottom. > > What do you think? Has this dry rot also happened to your bulbs? > > > Thank you very much and bye for today > > > Uli > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From eciton@utexas.edu Mon, 13 Jun 2016 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Monica Swartz Subject: dry rot of bulbs in winter storage Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2016 19:59:09 -0600 Hi Uli, I have had problems with a dry rot during summer storage of winter growers. Last year was very bad. Unlike your description, my infection turns the bulbs hard and if broken, they are powdery and tan-colored. It seems to be an infection that I suspect is spread by fungus gnats in the spring. It doesn't seem to matter how the bulbs are stored or if they get supplemental water during the summer. I've learned that even if some bulbs in the same pot with infected bulbs look ok, they rarely are and don't wake in the fall. All pots are treated for gnats, but they breed in the ground here so they still investigate the pots. My best defense is keeping multiple pots of each species in case a pot succumbs. If anyone knows a way to treat a pot so that the gnats won't run all over it, I'd love to hear it. monica From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Tue, 14 Jun 2016 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: A mystery BX bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:44:25 +0100 Hi, Kuang Huang wrote 'got this plant from the BX, but lost the name tag, could some one id this plant?'. See: http://goo.gl/v9vNoO Original link: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#huang I have low standards but that is an impressive plant. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Tue, 14 Jun 2016 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <47225c7e-2b19-eac3-4a03-44fdead5cc0a@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: Another mystery bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:56:02 +0100 Hi, Garry Koenigsberg wrote 'I bought an onion-sized bulb at the San Francisco Arboretum years ago, but lost track of the name. The plants multiply at a ridiculous rate and thrive on neglect. The leaves are about a foot tall, and the stems a bit taller, bearing several florets. Each has four white and green petals that open around four more petals that remain attached at the top.' See: http://goo.gl/uUn1zU Original URL: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#koenigsberg Looks like an Albucca to me, see wiki page: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From lesleykayrichardson@gmail.com Tue, 14 Jun 2016 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Lesley Richardson Subject: Another mystery bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 06:37:54 -0700 Galanthus? https://www.google.com/search?q=galanthus&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj9nK7L0afNAhUN_mMKHQnvD8sQ_AUICCgB&biw=1104&bih=666#imgrc=8uVNKy-B2dpIlM%3A Lesley On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 4:56 AM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Garry Koenigsberg wrote 'I bought an onion-sized bulb at the San Francisco > Arboretum years ago, but lost track of the name. The plants multiply at a > ridiculous rate and thrive on neglect. The leaves are about a foot tall, > and the stems a bit taller, bearing several florets. Each has four white > and green petals that open around four more petals that remain attached at > the top.' > > See: > > http://goo.gl/uUn1zU > > Original URL: > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#koenigsberg > > > Looks like an Albucca to me, see wiki page: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 14 Jun 2016 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <002101d1c659$c9b55bf0$5d2013d0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: A mystery BX bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:28:29 -0400 Would want to see the foliage but it might be crinum powellii album Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of David Pilling > Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2016 7:44 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] A mystery BX bulb to id > > Hi, > > Kuang Huang wrote 'got this plant from the BX, but lost the name tag, could > some one id this plant?'. > > See: > > http://goo.gl/v9vNoO > > Original link: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#huang > > I have low standards but that is an impressive plant. > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kellso@irvincentral.com Tue, 14 Jun 2016 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <728dbd2d-df25-352b-3552-78598c3e0695@irvincentral.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Another mystery bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:00:30 -0500 http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca -- Mr. Kelly M. Irvin 10850 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 USA Home Phone: 479-787-9958 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6a/b Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kelly.m.irvin On 6/14/16 8:37 AM, Lesley Richardson wrote: > Galanthus? > > > https://www.google.com/search?q=galanthus&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj9nK7L0afNAhUN_mMKHQnvD8sQ_AUICCgB&biw=1104&bih=666#imgrc=8uVNKy-B2dpIlM%3A > > Lesley > > On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 4:56 AM, David Pilling > wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> Garry Koenigsberg wrote 'I bought an onion-sized bulb at the San Francisco >> Arboretum years ago, but lost track of the name. The plants multiply at a >> ridiculous rate and thrive on neglect. The leaves are about a foot tall, >> and the stems a bit taller, bearing several florets. Each has four white >> and green petals that open around four more petals that remain attached at >> the top.' >> >> See: >> >> http://goo.gl/uUn1zU >> >> Original URL: >> >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#koenigsberg >> >> >> Looks like an Albucca to me, see wiki page: >> >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca >> >> >> -- >> David Pilling >> www.davidpilling.com >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From gk@garry.us Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: garry Subject: Another mystery bulb to id Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 12:03:46 -0700 Thanks folks. Indeed, it is Albuca nelsonii On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Kelly Irvin wrote: > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca > > -- > Mr. Kelly M. Irvin > 10850 Hodge Ln > Gravette, AR 72736 > USA > > Home Phone: 479-787-9958 > > USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6a/b > > Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/kelly.m.irvin > > On 6/14/16 8:37 AM, Lesley Richardson wrote: > >> Galanthus? >> >> >> >> https://www.google.com/search?q=galanthus&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj9nK7L0afNAhUN_mMKHQnvD8sQ_AUICCgB&biw=1104&bih=666#imgrc=8uVNKy-B2dpIlM%3A >> >> Lesley >> >> On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 4:56 AM, David Pilling > > >> wrote: >> >> Hi, >>> >>> Garry Koenigsberg wrote 'I bought an onion-sized bulb at the San >>> Francisco >>> Arboretum years ago, but lost track of the name. The plants multiply at a >>> ridiculous rate and thrive on neglect. The leaves are about a foot tall, >>> and the stems a bit taller, bearing several florets. Each has four white >>> and green petals that open around four more petals that remain attached >>> at >>> the top.' >>> >>> See: >>> >>> http://goo.gl/uUn1zU >>> >>> Original URL: >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#koenigsberg >>> >>> >>> Looks like an Albucca to me, see wiki page: >>> >>> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Albuca >>> >>> >>> -- >>> David Pilling >>> www.davidpilling.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Tue, 14 Jun 2016 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <4C476A1F-FDFF-496B-93D4-0BD551C9B2AF@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: When to plan oxalis bulbs Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 18:45:27 -0700 Thank you to all who responded to my oxalis query. Here’s what I decided to do. All the summer dormant oxalis went into organza party favor bags with pot labels. If you’ve never used them these bags (available Michael’s and the like) are real handy for protecting hybridizing attempts and catching seed. The come in a variety of sizes. I’ll pot them up when they start sprouting. The summer growing and blooming oxalis I’ve potted. Thanks again for your help. Jan Jeddeloh > On Jun 6, 2016, at 7:38 AM, msittner@mcn.org wrote: > > I donated those bulbs. I keep them in paper bags and then start potting > them up as I see them sprouting. This usually is from some time in August > into September or with Oxalis obtusa later. They don't all sprout at the > same time and they do just fine planted after they are sprouted. I have > not lost any keeping them this way, but they are inside and our summer > temperatures are mild. Sometimes you can even have a better idea which way > to plant them after they have sprouted. On some of them you have to plant > sideways since you can't tell which end is up. If they were in a pot I > wouldn't know when to start watering them. The one from Mexico has been > blooming for me for awhile too. I let it go dormant in winter and was just > late in getting the bulbs to the BX. I have some more ready to send soon > that are fall to winter blooming so if some of you have already planted > them you can try them a different way. As with many of the things we grow > there can be more than one way for success. I save my paper bags that are > marked with the species name and have been reusing them. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 15 Jun 2016 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <9b8b797c-f87b-2e41-36a8-d1d2201028be@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: A mystery BX bulb to id Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 12:22:02 +0100 Hi, On 14/06/2016 12:44, David Pilling wrote: > Kuang Huang wrote 'got this plant from the BX, but lost the name tag, > could some one id this plant?'. > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#huang By personal email I got an offer of crinum. It reminds me of an amaryllis - but there are visible leaves. -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From jay.yourch@gmail.com Wed, 15 Jun 2016 06:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: A mystery BX bulb to id Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 08:55:21 -0400 I sent a Crinum x powelli album to BX 271 (April 12, 2011), so it could be that, but the shape of the flowers reminds me more of Crinum bulbispermum 'Wide Open White' x C. 'Spring Joy' hybrids I made and offered for BX 316 (June 30, 2012) The BX offering: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2012-July/035934.html Pictures of some of the results from that cross, which resulted in many seeds: https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipP1eufbSMO4mb89OuRZLIZiUWd6lKYXn-UO6x__ A picture of the foliage would help. Cheers, Jay Yourch On Tue, Jun 14, 2016 at 7:44 AM, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > Kuang Huang wrote 'got this plant from the BX, but lost the name tag, > could some one id this plant?'. > > See: > > http://goo.gl/v9vNoO > > Original link: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#huang > > I have low standards but that is an impressive plant. > > > -- > David Pilling > www.davidpilling.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pearlsperson@gmail.com Wed, 15 Jun 2016 07:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Sue Mandeville Subject: How to get Hippeastrum papillo to bloom? Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 06:40:01 -0700 Hi All, I’m Sue Mandeville from Eugene, Oregon, new to the PBS. Zone 7-8, wet winters, dry summers. I joined because I wanted to find out how to get my Hippeastrum papillo to bloom. Had it for years. Told it didn’t need a dormant period, then read it needed two short dormant periods. Read it liked to be pot bound, so when dormant I put it in a smaller pot. Read it was epiphytic. Has 5 big bulbs. It’s starting to go dormant again. I’m thinking I gave it too much nitrogen fertilizer, fertilizer suggestions and timing would be welcome. I’m also thinking of putting it in an orchid type pot with bark chips and peat…does this sound OK? Other than no blooms, it’s a very healthy plant. Thanks, Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From npublici@yahoo.com Wed, 15 Jun 2016 07:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <239352150.3613188.1465999347651.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Del Allegood Subject: How to get Hippeastrum papillo to bloom? Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 14:02:27 +0000 (UTC) I don't know for certain why yours will not bloom,but I have several hundred and none of those in deep shade will bloom,no matter what their size.In Florida, direct sun is too harsh in the summer.Mine are most dormant in the hottest of the summer.It is very rare for them to lose their leaves.Papilio is not a reliable bloomer.I have had them bloom when fertilized and watered to the max,and I have had them bloom when starving and thirsty. They will,as well as many other Hippeastrum species,go without water up to three weeks without signs of stress.In Florida,they MUST be well drained,because it rains heavily while they're dormant.The ones which seem to do best for me are in afternoon shade,morning sun.Mine mostly bloom from January to april,but some times at any other part of the year,particularly in august. On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 9:43 AM, Sue Mandeville wrote: Hi All, I’m Sue Mandeville from Eugene, Oregon, new to the PBS. Zone 7-8, wet winters, dry summers. I joined because I wanted to find out how to get my Hippeastrum papillo to bloom. Had it for years. Told it didn’t need a dormant period, then read it needed two short dormant periods. Read it liked to be pot bound, so when dormant I put it in a smaller pot. Read it was epiphytic. Has 5 big bulbs. It’s starting to go dormant again. I’m thinking I gave it too much nitrogen fertilizer, fertilizer suggestions and timing would be welcome. I’m also thinking of putting it in an orchid type pot with bark chips and peat…does this sound OK? Other than no blooms, it’s a very healthy plant. Thanks, Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From haweha@hotmail.com Wed, 15 Jun 2016 09:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hans-Werner Hammen Subject: How to get Hippeastrum papillo to bloom? Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 16:00:03 +0000 The "recipe" to bloom H.papilio is, to keep it indoors as from October at a bright and warm place, and to move it outdoors as from May. A bunch of new leaves will appear in October, and the bloom - one seldom 2 scapes in succession - will follow, indoors, some weeks later. This recipe applies ONLY if the current husbandry is not rewarded with reliable bloom in the long term. There is always some gardeners, who obtain bloom despite another regimen. My recipe is not for them. From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Wed, 15 Jun 2016 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <6ae4e486-1351-dcba-6f49-a3e955867ae8@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: dry rot/gnats Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2016 23:44:20 +0200 Hello Monica, Thank you for your reply. I think you problem is different from mine but maybe this helps: The term 'gnats' is difficult to translate for me, I looked it up and maybe it is comparable to an infection with Euopean Sciaridae insects. One variant of these tiny insects causes damage in moist conditions, the larvae feed on tender roots and destroy seedlings this way. In seed trays or propagators they find the right conditions: moist and warm. In the past they used to be treated with insecticides but with little success, mainly due to quickly developing resistance. We now treat them with Steinernemia feltiae nematodes or Bacillus thuringensis israelensis. I tried the nematodes with very good result but not the Bacillus. I use the Bacillus on all kinds of caterpillars with excellent results. Both are not harmful to humans or pets or useful insects and are certified for ecological agriculture and are available commercially in Europe. Some of the 'gnats' are also part of the Sciaridae family so maybe these treatments might also work for you. I will further consider Dylan's advice on checking the compost moisture of stored dormant tubers next winter. Maybe it is a fungus that enters the tubers before they go dormant, Begonias have lots of fleshy stems that often turn into a mush when the plant goes dormant. The plants shed these dying shoots but maybe the damaging agent is already in the tuber before the shoot is shed. Thank your for your advice and ideas about this topic Uli. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 17 Jun 2016 09:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Hyacinthaceae and Conophytum inquiries Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2016 08:26:44 -0700 This correspondence arrived via the website. I think that Renjun may not understand how to, or be able to, join the PBS, and may not have enough English to join the discussion list. But if anyone would like to correspond with him or her about these interests, please write directly to the "outlook" address given. Jane McGary -------- Forwarded Message -------- Subject: 答复: 答复: PBS website contact:Hyacinthaceae Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2016 11:01:54 +0000 From: 任 君 To: Jane McGary Dear Jane McGary This is really a pity. I like Conophytum Hope to get some seeds I hope you can help me to get some favorite varieties. renjun The most sincere best wishes ------------------------------------------------------------------------ *发件人:* Jane McGary *发送时间:* 2016年6月13日 16:30:45 *收件人:* 任 君 *主题:* Re: 答复: PBS website contact:Hyacinthaceae Dear Renjun, I am sorry, the Pacific Bulb Society does not sell plants or bulbs. The website is only for information. Sincerely, Jane McGary Membership Coordinator, PBS On 6/13/2016 5:55 AM, 任 君 wrote: > > Hello > > I really like these small plants > > Want to you here to buy some plants or seeds > > I am a lovers from the Chinese > > Hope to receive your reply > > > > renjun > > The most sincere best wishes > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *发件人:* Jane McGary > *发送时间:* 2016年5月30日 16:05:17 > *收件人:* renjun > *主题:* Re: PBS website contact:Hyacinthaceae > Hello Renjun > > Thank you for your kind message about our website! > > Jane McGary > > Pacific Bulb Society > > > On 5/29/2016 11:56 PM, Apache wrote: > > This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. > > > > I especially like Hyacinthaceae > > > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 18 Jun 2016 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2016 17:25:11 -0700 A photo I took recently of Brodiaea elegans with a honeybee: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/Brodiaea/Brodiaea_elegans_bee_to.jpg Brodiaea elegans is the last to flower of the Brodiaea-complex (Brodiaea, Triteleia, Dichelostemma) and incidentally has the largest flowers of the group in this area. Dichelostemma has the smallest flowers, but the most numerous per inflorescence, while Brodiaea flowers are few in comparison. Triteleia is somewhere inbetween. Interesting to me is the largest flowers in the group appear when there is the least rainfall, and perhaps the smaller flowers of Dichelostemma capitatum (the first to bloom) are least susceptible to collecting rainwater. The lack of rain in late spring and summer may have enabled B. elegans to have larger flowers by natural selection, while selective pressures may be responsible for keeping the flowers of D. capitatum relatively small. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.oldsolbees.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From msittner@mcn.org Sat, 18 Jun 2016 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <723861b6-36ed-e7ae-c430-2f05e3d6bf50@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2016 18:46:58 -0700 Hi Travis, That's a nice photo of the Brodiaea elegans. This species is blooming for me now too in great abundance after our almost normal rainfall year. In the drought there were few blooms so it probably either didn't show up or didn't last long enough to flower. It's not the last to bloom for me. A form of B. californica blooms later as does B. pallida. Brodiaea leptandra and B. coronaria bloom about the same time as B. elegans in my garden. The size of the flowers of these species is variable. Triteleia peduncularis is a species that can have a lot of flowers, but one year we discovered one in our area with just a few. There is a great variation in size of flowers and time of bloom in different locations for a lot of species in the Brodiaea complex so it is hard to generalize. On the wiki we have photos of Dichelostemma capitatum in different counties in California. Photographers didn't note the size of the flowers so it is impossible to compare the size of the plants in counties with differences in the amount and timing of rainfall. I saw some flowering on a recent trip in May, no doubt long after plants in other parts of the state had dried up and gone to seed. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Dichelostemma_capitatum When you grow the plants from seed from different locations, they often bloom at different times. This has been a fantastic year for Triteleia laxa, again after fewer flowers in the drought. Our local species has short small flowers and blooms into summer so it doesn't fit your hypothesis either. I grow some that are in bloom at the same time that are much larger. So they have maintained their genetic tendencies when grown in the same place. And there is a great variation in the shade of blue as well. For awhile I had some that were really large, but I've lost them. So that variety must have not liked my conditions. Also one of the subspecies of Triteleia ixioides that blooms for me the last when it usually has been dry for some time, months after some of the others, has the smallest flowers. It sounds like a good subject for a research paper, what determines the size of flowers of the same species in different areas. Mary Sue On 6/18/2016 5:25 PM, Travis O wrote: > Interesting to me is the largest flowers in the group appear when there is the least rainfall, and perhaps the smaller flowers of Dichelostemma capitatum (the first to bloom) are least susceptible to collecting rainwater. The lack of rain in late spring and summer may have enabled B. elegans to have larger flowers by natural selection, while selective pressures may be responsible for keeping the flowers of D. capitatum relatively small. > From bob.hoel@comcast.net Sat, 18 Jun 2016 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Robert Hoel Subject: How to get Hippeastrum papillo to bloom? Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2016 21:46:54 -0500 Sue, I am in the Chicago area and grow my papilio in a greenhouse in the winter which is usually when they bloom, unprovoked here. :-) My experience is that bulbs usually take at least 3 - 4 years to mature enough to bloom. From there they can be quite prolific, with 1 - 2 scapes each year. Mine get no special fertilizer beyond the weekly fertilizer I give the rest of the greenhouse plants. Ignore them and they seem to bloom. Night temps are in the 60’s and days in the 70’s. Bob Hoel 630-240-0219 (cell) Better on a bike than in a box! > On Jun 18, 2016, at 8:47 PM, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: > > From: Sue Mandeville > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] How to get Hippeastrum papillo to bloom? > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > Hi All, > > > I?m Sue Mandeville from Eugene, Oregon, new to the PBS. Zone 7-8, wet > winters, dry summers. I joined because I wanted to find out how to get my > Hippeastrum papillo to bloom. Had it for years. Told it didn?t need a > dormant period, then read it needed two short dormant periods. Read it > liked to be pot bound, so when dormant I put it in a smaller pot. Read it > was epiphytic. Has 5 big bulbs. It?s starting to go dormant again. I?m > thinking I gave it too much nitrogen fertilizer, fertilizer suggestions and > timing would be welcome. I?m also thinking of putting it in an orchid type > pot with bark chips and peat?does this sound OK? Other than no blooms, it?s > a very healthy plant. Thanks, Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 18 Jun 2016 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2016 20:12:27 -0700 Thanks Mary Sue, What you say is though provoking. I've repeatedly heard the definition of "native" to describe the specific ecotypes from specific areas irrespective of the given species being widespread in a larger region. There could be slightly different genes between two morphs of a single species having evolved in different locales, and mild differences in climate and timing of rainfall over the course of the species evolution could result in unexpected consequences. Pure speculation, desperately trying to convince myself my hypothesis could hold any ground under scrutiny. My hypothesis seems to only make sense here in Rogue River, so in other words I'm probably wrong. Unless we can find a wizard to blame for any discrepancies. Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.oldsolbees.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 19 Jun 2016 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5ca064df-2d6d-8ffa-319e-3313e1a28270@earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2016 10:15:12 -0700 Brodiaea elegans (grown from seeds collected in northern California) does very well here in northwestern Oregon, in the open garden in well-drained locations. As Mary Sue wrote, it isn't quite the last themid (Themidaceae) to flower; Brodiaea californica is a little behind it. B. elegans is more vigorous here than Brodiaea coronaria, which flowers at the same time. My "cheap" rock garden -- easily grown plants on a steep bank near the road -- is dotted with various themids at this season. Their tall scapes emerge among or even through the other plants for a naturalistic scene. Visible now are Brodiaea elegans, Triteleia laxa, Dichelostemma ida-maia, Dichelostemma multiflorum, Triteleia peduncularis, and Bloomeria crocea. Above the rock garden, Dichelostemma volubile is twining up through Cercis occidentalis (California redbud). Elsewhere in the garden the hybrid Dichelostemma 'Pink Diamond' (presumably D. ida-maia x volubile) is in flower. Triteleia laxa 'Rudy' with strongly striped tepals adorns a raised bed. Regarding flowering times for different populations, I notice that Triteleia laxa "Giant Form" from seeds I collected in Mariposa County, California, flowers much earlier than other forms of T. laxa here. Indeed it's hard to understand why the former is in T. laxa at all; I certainly didn't know what I was seeing in the wild, despite being familiar with typical T. laxa since childhood. To grow these plants in a more conventional garden setting where a naturalistic appearance is not desired, one should plant them in close groups. Some will increase to present a dense floral effect, and B. elegans is one that will, but many of them seem disinclined to produce a number of flowering stems from their offset corms. An interesting thing about the taller themids is that the scape can become detached from the corm even before flowering is finished, and the flowers and seeds can continue to mature normally, apparently utilizing just the moisture in the long, thick scape. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 19 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1313091695.945017.1466358372630.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: totally off topic but good: Exacum trinervium 'Kandy' Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2016 17:46:12 +0000 (UTC) I spotted this plant at a local nursery yesterday, and it was love at first sight. Others apparently thought so, too: people were grabbing them right and left. I got mine just in time - later in the day I sent a friend in to get one and they were almost gone. The color is incredible, right up there with Tecophilaea, some Tibouchina and some other gentians (Exacum is a gentian family plant). Take a look here:http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2016/06/exacum-trinervium-kandy.html Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where the weather has been about as good as it gets for the last week or so. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From macjohn@mac.com Sun, 19 Jun 2016 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <4E7E6828-3DA3-4507-A33E-B9F96A17512F@mac.com> From: John Willis Subject: totally off topic but good: Exacum trinervium 'Kandy' Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2016 21:40:44 -0400 Jim, that’s a beautiful color. Which nursery are you going to credit with that find… > On Jun 19, 2016, at 1:46 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > I spotted this plant at a local nursery yesterday, and it was love at first sight. Others apparently thought so, too: people were grabbing them right and left. I got mine just in time - later in the day I sent a friend in to get one and they were almost gone. The color is incredible, right up there with Tecophilaea, some Tibouchina and some other gentians (Exacum is a gentian family plant). Take a look here:http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2016/06/exacum-trinervium-kandy.html > > Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 where the weather has been about as good as it gets for the last week or so. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Gardens get wilder every day … MacGardens _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fosterjp@cox.net Mon, 20 Jun 2016 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <2d3547c9-9181-4872-ea32-86dccb4dbf4a@cox.net> From: Jim Foster Subject: Boophone seed Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 11:41:52 -0700 My flower dehisced this morning from my large bulb and I am wondering if there is any seed. I removed the dead flowers but when I candled a few of the seed pods I do not see any seed. Are these self-incompatible? Is there any way to find out among the 50+ flowers if there is any seed in the entire head? Jim Foster Santa Barbara From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon, 20 Jun 2016 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Boophone seed Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 11:46:48 -0700 Jim, Boophone are slightly self-compatible in my experience. This year, for instance, I've gotten about ~10 seeds from the only Boophone disticha that bloomed for me. This bloom included one individual flower stem that branched into 3 stems where the flower would normally be with each of those stems having a flower at the end (and one of them set a single seed). -|< > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: fosterjp@cox.net > Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 11:41:52 -0700 > Subject: [pbs] Boophone seed > > My flower dehisced this morning from my large bulb and I am wondering if > there is any seed. I removed the dead flowers but when I candled a few > of the seed pods I do not see any seed. Are these self-incompatible? > Is there any way to find out among the 50+ flowers if there is any seed > in the entire head? > > Jim Foster > Santa Barbara > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kjblack@pacbell.net Mon, 20 Jun 2016 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <813465486.6158602.1466449649755.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Boophone seed Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 19:07:29 +0000 (UTC) Hi Jim, my own experience with Boophones is that they are generally self-sterile.  I've made multiple attempts trying to self with no success.  Pollen from another Boophone specimen ... or even another closely related Amaryllid (eg, Amaryllis belladonna, Brunsvigia species, perhaps others) seems to be needed for fertilization or even parthenogenesis to take place.  Ken BlackfordSan Diego From: Jim Foster To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Monday, June 20, 2016 11:41 AM Subject: [pbs] Boophone seed My flower dehisced this morning from my large bulb and I am wondering if there is any seed.  I removed the dead flowers but when I candled a few of the seed pods I do not see any seed.  Are these self-incompatible?  Is there any way to find out among the 50+ flowers if there is any seed in the entire head? Jim Foster Santa Barbara _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <221289.32720.bm@smtp227.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 402 Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 15:16:13 -0400 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com   Include "BX 402" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Rimmer De Vries: “Bulbs” 1. Notholirion thomsonianum,  ex Illhea Bulbs  - basal bulblets. 2. Gloxinia sylvatica /Seemannia sylvatica ( Bolivian sunset )- rhizomes, plant 1” deep  each piece will become a new plant 3. Othonna sp. possibly Othonna aff. perfoliata ex Mike Vassar 7454, Simonsviel-  yellow florets with no petals.  good increaser in damp sand in later fall  to winter- dry summer Seed: 4. Phaedranassa sp., ex BX 335 came as P. tunguraguae - cross between sister seedlings.  5. Cyclamen hederifolium, mix of many types From Uli Urban: 6. Tubers of Begonia falciloba 7. ONE corm of Gladiolus sericeo-villosus 8. Seed of Thunia marshalliana Thunia marshalliana is a terrestrial orchid which can be grown exactly like a geophyte. It needs a warm and sunny place in summer (I grow it in the greenhouse in hot conditions) in the open if it is warm and humid enough. Lots of water and fertilizer, the reed like plant becomes quite big. clusters of big white flowers on top of the cane. Totally dry winter dormancy. I repot every year as the roots are also dying off in winter. After the shoot has emerged in spring about 1 or 2 inches long everything is taken apart, the 2-year-old dried up pseudobulb and dead roots cut off and last year's very turgid pseudobulb with the emerging shoot is planted. Compost rich in humus with some amount of powered clay added, lots of water and fertiizer. Dry rest after the leaves start to fall. Orchid seed is for the specialist, it normally needs either the symbiosis with the fungus from the mother plant's soil to germinate or artificial lab sowing on synthetic Agar under sterile condition. I have never done this. Some Orchid seed can germinate like ordinary seed but I do not know if Thunia will do so. From Charles Crane: (let Dell know if you want detailed information about collection locations.) Blooming-size Bulbs: 9. Zephyranthes  pulchella 10. Zephyranthes  smallii 11.  Habranthus tubispathus From Pamela Slate Blooming-size Bulbs: 12. Albuca ‘Augrabies Hills’ 13. Albuca sp.? from a Tucson grower named Dorothy Pasek (Plantas del Sol) who worked at The HBG at one time. It came labeled as Albuca sp. (Pachuis Pass, S. Africa). The small bulbs are mostly flowering size and plant growth is grassy. From Sophie Dixon: 14. Seeds of Hippeastrum ‘Sydney’ selfed 15. Seeds of “Hippeastrum ‘Emerald’ x ‘Apple Blossom’ x ‘Sovereign’” Thank you, Rimmer, Uli, Charles, Pam and Sophie !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <125443B8-D720-4073-9CDF-EA434EA1E4D3@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 402-Thunia marshalliana seed germination Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:07:51 -0700 Just out of curiosity I googled Thunia seed germination and got a hit http://nopr.niscair.res.in/bitstream/123456789/29152/1/IJBT 13(2) 268-273.pdf . As orchid seed goes it doesn’t look too difficult although they used green pods, a technique which avoids having to sterilize itsy bitsy orchid seed. Thought I’d post this in case someone wants to take this on. Jan Jeddeloh _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fosterjp@cox.net Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jim Foster Subject: Boophone seed Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:14:23 -0700 Thanks Kipp - you prompted me to go over every flower and I found 3 seed! I was surprised at the size, just like a pea. I won't have trouble finding them again. Should they be planted now or do they need time to ripen further. Next will see if my B. josephina will flower this Fall. I have several others in pots but they are dormant - when should I move them into my garden. Jim Foster Santa Barbara From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon, 20 Jun 2016 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Boophone seed Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:45:02 -0700 Jim, Boophone seeds are generally ready to sprout once the infructescence is dried-out. When the entire seed-head detaches from the bulb they seed should all be ripe and ready to plant. I assume you mean you have several other Boophone in pots: Assuming your garden is gopher-free and given your location in Santa Barbara, there's no reason you shouldn't move your bulbs into your garden - you will certainly get more reliable blooming when the plants are given a large root run (and this goes for all the winter-growing South African amaryllids) -|< > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: fosterjp@cox.net > Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 13:14:23 -0700 > Subject: [pbs] Boophone seed > > Thanks Kipp - you prompted me to go over every flower and I found 3 > seed! I was surprised at the size, just like a pea. I won't have > trouble finding them again. > > Should they be planted now or do they need time to ripen further. > > Next will see if my B. josephina will flower this Fall. > > I have several others in pots but they are dormant - when should I move > them into my garden. > > Jim Foster > Santa Barbara > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Mon, 20 Jun 2016 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Travis O Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 14:03:00 -0700 That's neat that you mentioned the flowers of some themids continuing after being disconnected from the corm. I have actually seen this in one of a local Dichelostemma growing in a forest setting, I imagined the scape became elongated to reach sunlight or it grew longer due to increased moisture. Whatever the case may be, it's strange to see this kind of thing in the wild even though we do it intentionally all the time (cut flowers). Travis Owen Rogue River, OR www.amateuranthecologist.com www.oldsolbees.com www.pacificbulbsociety.org From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 20 Jun 2016 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <225DD878-6734-4F93-8062-10ED0D609734@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: totally off topic but good: Exacum trinervium 'Kandy' Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 16:30:09 -0700 I love it. BTW, Kandy is one of the major cities of Sri Lanka, right in the center of the island, at a high enough elevation that the climate is actually quite pleasant compared to coastal cities (such as Colombo). There is a really nice botanical garden there as well. The town is well worth visiting if you’re ever in Sri Lanka. Is this being marketed by one of the national wholesalers (i.e., do you think I might be able to find it offered at one of the nurseries here in California)? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > On Jun 19, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > I spotted this plant at a local nursery yesterday, and it was love at first sight. Others apparently thought so, too: people were grabbing them right and left. I got mine just in time - later in the day I sent a friend in to get one and they were almost gone. The color is incredible, right up there with Tecophilaea, some Tibouchina and some other gentians (Exacum is a gentian family plant). Take a look here:http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2016/06/exacum-trinervium-kandy.html _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Mon, 20 Jun 2016 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <115665ac-7a83-88d4-ab38-30a77fea868b@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Prosartes Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2016 18:21:21 -0700 Hi, Prosartes is a genus that was formerly known as Disporum in North America (fairybells). Disporum is retained for species from China and on the wiki Prosartes page we had written that Prosartes is now considered to justify generic status based on cellular, chemical and morphological differences that are not readily visible to the naked eye. That definitely makes it harder to tell them apart. I remember when I took a wildflower class that telling the two species apart that are found in our area, Prosartes hookeri and Prosartes smithii, can be a bit challenging. Since most of the ones I see locally are coastal (P. smithii) I've not spent a lot of time trying to figure them out. On a recent trip we saw some plants flowering in Oregon and northern California and I decided to add some photos to the wiki. I did a bit of research to add more information to the wiki page and ended up getting very confused as descriptions vary widely in different publications. Even the Flora of North America doesn't quite match Jepson. In Jepson whether the stamens are included or exserted tells those two species apart, but in the Flora of North America Prosartes hookeri is described with the stamens either included or exserted. Whether the leaf margins are hairy and which direction the hairs point is another identifying feature, except that sometimes those margins are hairy and sometimes not for the same species. Looking at photos on the Internet of different species also isn't very helpful as many of the photos of different species look alike and the photographers could have understandably misidentified them. And I discovered another species that is native to Oregon (P. trachycarpa) that in photos looks like P. hookeri, but has distinctive berries. The ones we saw were in flower so that didn't help. I finally decided I was spending too much time on it and added photos as P. smithii since it was coastal and the stamens were included and as P. hookeri for the California species since P. trachycarpa isn't found in California (although the spot we saw the plants was near the border) and for the other Oregon species since it is listed as found in Washington Park, Portland, where we saw it. There are a number of other North American species that we do not have photos of. If any of you have photos of them and are willing to add them to the wiki, feel free to send them to me and I will add them for you. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Prosartes From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Tue, 21 Jun 2016 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Brodiaea elegans Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 11:15:59 -0700 > On Jun 19, 2016, at 10:15 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > > Brodiaea elegans (grown from seeds collected in northern California) does very well here in northwestern Oregon, in the open garden in well-drained locations. As Mary Sue wrote, it isn't quite the last themid (Themidaceae) to flower; Brodiaea californica is a little behind it. B. elegans is more vigorous here than Brodiaea coronaria, which flowers at the same time. Even down here in hot Southern California, I still have a few themids in flower. (Although to be truthful, until a few days ago, we’ve have quite a number of weeks where the temperatures have remained relatively cool. Of course that suddenly changed a few days ago peaking at 111°F [44°C] yesterday at the Pasadena weather station!) Currently blooming among my plants are: Brodiaea californica B. californica ssp. leptandra B. elegans B. filifolia B. pallida B. purdyi Triteleia peduncularis There are also a couple of geophytes from the opposite side of the equator also still blooming: Conanthera campanulata c. trimaculata I don’t know if they can continue blooming and forming seeds if the scape is separated from the plant, but at the moment the leaves have all gone dormant and it’s just the bare flower scapes still blooming their heads off. They’re also purple/violet flowers like most of the themids. —Lee _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Tue, 21 Jun 2016 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <468977.47120.bm@smtp229.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: BX 402 CLOSED Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 14:52:52 -0400 Packages should go out in a week. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <2129660097.2402572.1466606058667.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 14:34:18 +0000 (UTC) I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other things, lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps others of you also got a similar email, although the one I received was addressed to me only. If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it here. He included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached here) and gives permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS Wiki! Here's what he wrote: Hi Jim, It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris hybrids are now available. Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers interested in selling them. If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue of The Plantsman.  Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S.  They sell:  Mars Landing  Orange Glow  Sea Breeze  Velvet Smile The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via Jacques Amand) At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden centres interested.  I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S.  They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S.  People can contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection of my hybrids:  Beautiful Day  Dance On  Darkness  Evening Twilight  Eye Catcher  Mars Landing  North Star  Orange Glow  Regal  Scent•sational  Sea Green  Sea Breeze  Splish Splash  Spot On  Storm  Summers Day  Sunshine  Velvet Smile  Vivacious Beginnings  White Caucasus People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com All the best,      Alan (416) 221-4344 www.Reticulatas.com _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hornig@oswego.edu Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 10:37:31 -0400 A lot of people out there have neat stuff to sell, but haven't we made it a rule that we don't advertise on PBS? I think it best to keep it that way. On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other things, > lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps others of you also > got a similar email, although the one I received was addressed to me only. > If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it here. He > included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached here) and gives > permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS Wiki! Here's what he > wrote: > Hi Jim, > It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris hybrids > are now available. > Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work in > future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. > For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy them; > and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers interested in > selling them. > If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue of > The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first > published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website that > would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." > > > > > > Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. They > sell: Mars Landing Orange Glow Sea Breeze Velvet Smile > > The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via > Jacques Amand) > > At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my > hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden centres > interested. I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the U.S. but its > quite an uphill battle. > Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. > and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People can > contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. > The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection of > my hybrids: Beautiful Day Dance On Darkness Evening Twilight Eye > Catcher Mars Landing North Star Orange Glow Regal Scent•sational Sea > Green Sea Breeze Splish Splash Spot On Storm Summers Day Sunshine > Velvet Smile Vivacious Beginnings White Caucasus > > People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com > > All the best, Alan > > (416) 221-4344 > www.Reticulatas.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1729517888.2405998.1466607305503.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 14:55:05 +0000 (UTC) Sorry if I stretched the rules there, but I seem to remember lots of brief announcements of a commercial nature on PBS. And is it really an advertisement? You can't buy from the information given there: you'll have to do some homework to figure out how to buy and from whom.I like to know about things like this, and I'll bet others do, too. There will probably be keen competition for these bulbs when the time comes, and those with advanced knowledge are better poised to get what they want.I did it in the spirit of a service to the membership.  Jim McKenney  _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <000001d1cc96$b6655530$232fff90$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 10:59:43 -0400 I think I disagree. Availability is different from commercialism. And as many of us know, the way to make a small fortune breeding plants is to start with a large fortune. Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 10:38 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids > > A lot of people out there have neat stuff to sell, but haven't we made it a rule > that we don't advertise on PBS? I think it best to keep it that way. > > > On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Jim McKenney > > wrote: > > > I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other > > things, lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps others > > of you also got a similar email, although the one I received was addressed > to me only. > > If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it > > here. He included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached > > here) and gives permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS > > Wiki! Here's what he > > wrote: > > Hi Jim, > > It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris > > hybrids are now available. > > Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work > > in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. > > For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy > > them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers > > interested in selling them. > > If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue > > of The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first > > published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website > > that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." > > > > > > > > > > > > Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. > > They > > sell: Mars Landing Orange Glow Sea Breeze Velvet Smile > > > > The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via > > Jacques Amand) > > > > At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my > > hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden > > centres interested. I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the > > U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. > > Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. > > and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People > > can > > contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. > > The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection > > of my hybrids: Beautiful Day Dance On Darkness Evening Twilight > > Eye Catcher Mars Landing North Star Orange Glow Regal > > Scent•sational Sea Green Sea Breeze Splish Splash Spot On Storm > > Summers Day Sunshine Velvet Smile Vivacious Beginnings White > > Caucasus > > > > People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com > > > > All the best, Alan > > > > (416) 221-4344 > > www.Reticulatas.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > -- > Ellen Hornig > 212 Grafton St > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hornig@oswego.edu Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 11:08:55 -0400 He's sent it out very widely, and requested its recipients, which include NARGS newsletter editors, to disseminate it further. I think this goes well beyond a modest notification of availability. Sent from Ellen's iPhone > On Jun 22, 2016, at 10:59 AM, Tim Eck wrote: > > I think I disagree. Availability is different from commercialism. And as many of us know, the way to make a small fortune breeding plants is to start with a large fortune. > > Tim Eck > When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. > Gauss > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig >> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 10:38 AM >> To: Pacific Bulb Society >> Subject: Re: [pbs] Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids >> >> A lot of people out there have neat stuff to sell, but haven't we made it a rule >> that we don't advertise on PBS? I think it best to keep it that way. >> >> >> On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Jim McKenney >> >> wrote: >> >>> I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other >>> things, lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps others >>> of you also got a similar email, although the one I received was addressed >> to me only. >>> If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it >>> here. He included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached >>> here) and gives permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS >>> Wiki! Here's what he >>> wrote: >>> Hi Jim, >>> It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris >>> hybrids are now available. >>> Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work >>> in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. >>> For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy >>> them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers >>> interested in selling them. >>> If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue >>> of The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first >>> published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website >>> that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. >>> They >>> sell: Mars Landing Orange Glow Sea Breeze Velvet Smile >>> >>> The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via >>> Jacques Amand) >>> >>> At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my >>> hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden >>> centres interested. I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the >>> U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. >>> Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. >>> and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People >>> can >>> contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. >>> The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection >>> of my hybrids: Beautiful Day Dance On Darkness Evening Twilight >>> Eye Catcher Mars Landing North Star Orange Glow Regal >>> Scent•sational Sea Green Sea Breeze Splish Splash Spot On Storm >>> Summers Day Sunshine Velvet Smile Vivacious Beginnings White >>> Caucasus >>> >>> People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com >>> >>> All the best, Alan >>> >>> (416) 221-4344 >>> www.Reticulatas.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> >> >> -- >> Ellen Hornig >> 212 Grafton St >> Shrewsbury MA 01545 >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From robin@hansennursery.com Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <000e01d1cc98$80665360$8132fa20$@hansennursery.com> From: "Hansen Nursery" Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 08:12:32 -0700 Would anyone be interested in a source list of hard-to-find bulbs if it were published in the Bulb Journal? A list of basic reference/growing guides? Please let me know. This has occurred to me more than once, as I'm often frustrated when trying to find seed, plants or bulbs. We can focus just on bulbs and include geophytes if needed. Robin Hansen Editor, PBS Bulb Journal robin@hansennursery.com -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Tim Eck Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 8:00 AM To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Subject: Re: [pbs] Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids I think I disagree. Availability is different from commercialism. And as many of us know, the way to make a small fortune breeding plants is to start with a large fortune. Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen > Hornig > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 10:38 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids > > A lot of people out there have neat stuff to sell, but haven't we made > it a rule that we don't advertise on PBS? I think it best to keep it that way. > > > On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Jim McKenney > > wrote: > > > I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other > > things, lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps > > others of you also got a similar email, although the one I received > > was addressed > to me only. > > If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it > > here. He included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached > > here) and gives permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS > > Wiki! Here's what he > > wrote: > > Hi Jim, > > It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris > > hybrids are now available. > > Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my > > work in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. > > For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy > > them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers > > interested in selling them. > > If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March > > issue of The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it > > was first published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to > > our website that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." > > > > > > > > > > > > Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. > > They > > sell: Mars Landing Orange Glow Sea Breeze Velvet Smile > > > > The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via > > Jacques Amand) > > > > At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of > > my hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get > > garden centres interested. I am trying to get wholesalers > > interested in the U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. > > Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. > > and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People > > can > > contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. > > The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best > > selection of my hybrids: Beautiful Day Dance On Darkness Evening > > Twilight Eye Catcher Mars Landing North Star Orange Glow Regal > > Scent•sational Sea Green Sea Breeze Splish Splash Spot On Storm > > Summers Day Sunshine Velvet Smile Vivacious Beginnings White > > Caucasus > > > > People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com > > > > All the best, Alan > > > > (416) 221-4344 > > www.Reticulatas.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > -- > Ellen Hornig > 212 Grafton St > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12472 - Release Date: 06/22/16 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Wed, 22 Jun 2016 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <16D2F9C8-0426-4136-96B4-30E8765C8F2D@gmail.com> From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2016 14:00:19 -0700 Yep, one of our local small nursery people got one of his emails too. I think his cultivars look lovely and that he would have been better growing and selling them himself. I have a suspicion the big Dutch bulb guys are taking the little guy for a ride. I’ll bet he’s had to put up a bunch of money for their “interest” and now that these bulbs are ready to sell he’s been told he’s got to drum up interest in them. Jan > On Jun 22, 2016, at 8:08 AM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > > He's sent it out very widely, and requested its recipients, which include NARGS newsletter editors, to disseminate it further. I think this goes well beyond a modest notification of availability. > > Sent from Ellen's iPhone > >> On Jun 22, 2016, at 10:59 AM, Tim Eck wrote: >> >> I think I disagree. Availability is different from commercialism. And as many of us know, the way to make a small fortune breeding plants is to start with a large fortune. >> >> Tim Eck >> When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. >> Gauss >> >> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ellen Hornig >>> Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2016 10:38 AM >>> To: Pacific Bulb Society >>> Subject: Re: [pbs] Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids >>> >>> A lot of people out there have neat stuff to sell, but haven't we made it a rule >>> that we don't advertise on PBS? I think it best to keep it that way. >>> >>> >>> On Wed, Jun 22, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Jim McKenney >>> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I got an email from Alan McMurtrie yesterday which, among other >>>> things, lists sources for his reticulate iris hybrids. Perhaps others >>>> of you also got a similar email, although the one I received was addressed >>> to me only. >>>> If this email had a wider distribution, I apologize for posting it >>>> here. He included a copy of his Plantsman's article (not attached >>>> here) and gives permission to reprint it. Let's put it on the PBS >>>> Wiki! Here's what he >>>> wrote: >>>> Hi Jim, >>>> It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris >>>> hybrids are now available. >>>> Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work >>>> in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. >>>> For the moment it' s a matter of letting members know they can buy >>>> them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers >>>> interested in selling them. >>>> If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue >>>> of The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first >>>> published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website >>>> that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Odyssey Bulbs is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. >>>> They >>>> sell: Mars Landing Orange Glow Sea Breeze Velvet Smile >>>> >>>> The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via >>>> Jacques Amand) >>>> >>>> At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my >>>> hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden >>>> centres interested. I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the >>>> U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. >>>> Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. >>>> and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People >>>> can >>>> contact: bulbs@JacquesAmand.co.uk for details. >>>> The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection >>>> of my hybrids: Beautiful Day Dance On Darkness Evening Twilight >>>> Eye Catcher Mars Landing North Star Orange Glow Regal >>>> Scent•sational Sea Green Sea Breeze Splish Splash Spot On Storm >>>> Summers Day Sunshine Velvet Smile Vivacious Beginnings White >>>> Caucasus >>>> >>>> People can find out more about my work at www.Reticulatas.com >>>> >>>> All the best, Alan >>>> >>>> (416) 221-4344 >>>> www.Reticulatas.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> pbs mailing list >>>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Ellen Hornig >>> 212 Grafton St >>> Shrewsbury MA 01545 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> pbs mailing list >>> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >>> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From PJOSPUX@aol.com Fri, 24 Jun 2016 04:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <224f5f.5a893af2.449e6ba0@aol.com> From: PJOSPUX@aol.com Subject: Allen McMurtrie's reticulate iris hybrids Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 06:55:29 -0400 As ever one is totally authoritarian or not. A number of members include their name and also the web address of their nurseries, which I have always found of interest, I should never have known of their existance otherwise. I have not been made aware of the results of breeding interesting hybrids from the general gardening media, though I did get a glimpse in the RHS magazine. Surely it is the interests of plant lovers to be advised of such activities, small breeders have no clout commercially to help promote their results, and a bit of latitude would not be amiss ~ afterall one can always zapp the email. Paul Oliver-Smith Kent, UK In a message dated 22/06/2016 15:57:11 GMT Daylight Time, jamesamckenney@verizon.net writes: Sorry if I stretched the rules there, but I seem to remember lots of brief announcements of a commercial nature on PBS. And is it really an advertisement? You can't buy from the information given there: you'll have to do some homework to figure out how to buy and from whom.I like to know about things like this, and I'll bet others do, too. There will probably be keen competition for these bulbs when the time comes, and those with advanced knowledge are better poised to get what they want.I did it in the spirit of a service to the membership. Jim McKenney _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Mon, 27 Jun 2016 02:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Fertilizer Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2016 01:27:16 -0700 Does anyone know of a source for a 5-20-10 or 10-50-20 liquid fertilizer ? Karl Church Dinuba, CA From jgglatt@gmail.com Mon, 27 Jun 2016 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <57713184.3070803@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Fertilizer Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2016 10:00:36 -0400 Peter's Blossom Booster is 10-30-20. Those blue crystals that are dissolved in water for use. I am very pleased with it, have been using it for a very long time. From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Fertilizer Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2016 07:17:27 -0700 Thanks Judy that's just what I was looking for. Karl On Jun 27, 2016 7:02 AM, "Judy Glattstein" wrote: > Peter's Blossom Booster is 10-30-20. Those blue crystals that are > dissolved in water for use. I am very pleased with it, have been using it > for a very long time. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From cherbstritt@yahoo.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 05:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <587894022.200385.1467115343214.JavaMail.yahoo@mail.yahoo.com> From: Chris_Herbstritt Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 161, Issue 17 Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 12:02:23 +0000 (UTC) Hello All, Probably the safest way to have "no conflicts of interest" is to limit our discussions to avoid all plants that are commercially available. Discussing commercially available plants or patented plants could be inadvertently helping the sale of that product. Additionally, if members have associations with a nursery or institution in their user name, having their name listed could be inadvertently helping their sales.  All member names could be changed to have an anonymous number. For example member "Jane Doe (Shady Pines Nursery)" could be changed to Member 12345. This way we could have discussions without encouraging people to grow and buy plants or bulbs. The discussions could be purely scientific and nobody could benefit monetarily from our discussions. An Admin could monitor all discussions before they go out and all responses could be sanitized if "taboo" subjects are mentioned. The question is... Do we want to go this far.   Personally, I enjoy the personalized monikers and our lively discussions about all types of plants - especially the new ones and where to buy them. I suppose there is a fine line between mentioning a newly developed Iris and where you might buy it and a member sending out an email that they are taking orders for a new $200 aril Iris that grows easily in clay and loves summer humidity.  I would like to think that part of our goal here is to encourage people to successfully cultivate plants.  Part of that is helping people to find the plants.   While it's fun to grow plants from seed, not everyone can afford to wait (sometimes 10 years) for something to bloom when starting from seed.  And of course cultivars rarely come true from seed, so buying or trading for special selections is a good option. The choice is ours. Do we want to discuss plants that people can obtain and grow?   Chris _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From erik@tepuidesign.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 07:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Erik Van Lennep Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 161, Issue 17 Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 15:43:44 +0200 As put so well by Chris Herbstritt, *"I would like to think that part of our goal here is to encourage people to successfully cultivate plants. Part of that is helping people to find the plants". * And another part of that is helping small scale growers, those helping to perpetuate rare bulbs for which we make up the primary market (and therefore they are hardly going to be profiteers, are they?). Why would we expect them to devote time, knowledge and expense to propagation while we deny them the visibility which could determine their success? It makes no sense. Erik van Lennep Currently growing in Spain <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> “I know of no restorative of heart, body, and soul more effective against hopelessness than the restoration of the Earth.” —BARRY LOPEZ” On 28 June 2016 at 14:02, Chris_Herbstritt wrote: > Hello All, > Probably the safest way to have "no conflicts of interest" is to limit our > discussions to avoid all plants that are commercially available. Discussing > commercially available plants or patented plants could be inadvertently > helping the sale of that product. > Additionally, if members have associations with a nursery or institution > in their user name, having their name listed could be inadvertently helping > their sales. All member names could be changed to have an anonymous > number. For example member "Jane Doe (Shady Pines Nursery)" could be > changed to Member 12345. > This way we could have discussions without encouraging people to grow and > buy plants or bulbs. The discussions could be purely scientific and nobody > could benefit monetarily from our discussions. An Admin could monitor all > discussions before they go out and all responses could be sanitized if > "taboo" subjects are mentioned. > The question is... Do we want to go this far. > Personally, I enjoy the personalized monikers and our lively discussions > about all types of plants - especially the new ones and where to buy them. > I suppose there is a fine line between mentioning a newly developed Iris > and where you might buy it and a member sending out an email that they are > taking orders for a new $200 aril Iris that grows easily in clay and loves > summer humidity. > I would like to think that part of our goal here is to encourage people to > successfully cultivate plants. Part of that is helping people to find the > plants. While it's fun to grow plants from seed, not everyone can afford > to wait (sometimes 10 years) for something to bloom when starting from > seed. And of course cultivars rarely come true from seed, so buying or > trading for special selections is a good option. > The choice is ours. Do we want to discuss plants that people can obtain > and grow? > > Chris > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <33a0f467-1756-22b8-fe56-af3fc92f5391@mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: history/commercial messages on the list Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 07:42:47 -0700 As a former list administrator of this list, I'd like to come to Ellen's defense. This list was started on yahoo and then moved to my server where I paid for it. In early 2003 we moved it to ibiblio.org where it and the wiki has been hosted for free ever since. The majority of the members of this list are not paying members of the Pacific Bulb Society and when the list was started we agreed that if it was open to anyone who was interested in the subject we would all gain by the information shared. But for a new organization with few members and not a lot of money, having the list be free was a big help. One of the requirements for being hosted for free was not being a commercial organization that posted items for sale. We knew people would be interested in what was available so we tried to come up with a way of sharing that information without putting losing the list and the wiki at risk. We suggested that people who had things to sell could announce when their web site was updated and that they had something special to sell with a link or an email address to learn more, but requested that this not be a frequent posting. Most people were really good about following those rules. We experimented with having a place where people could sell and trade bulbs when Ellen kindly offered her website when she stopped selling bulbs. But it wasn't used enough to justify the continued operation. And we allowed sharing information about what someone else had available by a short message with a link to learn more. And Mike came up with a way to add sources of bulbs to the wiki so people could search there (provided someone on the list recommended the source because they had a good experience and shared that information with one of the wiki volunteers who could add it to the wiki.) From time to time there has been discussion of moving the list once again, especially since ibiblio is concentrating on collections, not lists, and not longer offering the latter service to new groups. However, this organization has a very limited number of volunteers that do all the work and moving involves some time and effort (and expense). Whenever there is discussion of changing the nature of things, there are diverse opinions about what is best as well with a lot of people liking it the way it is. If everyone who subscribes to this list was allowed frequently to post what they had for sale, I expect you would have a lot of requests from people to unsubscribe. It's difficult to find a balance sometimes, but that is what this list has attempted to do. Mary Sue From hornig@oswego.edu Tue, 28 Jun 2016 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: history/commercial messages on the list Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 11:04:06 -0400 Thank you, Mary Sue, for coming to my defense. I was going to stay out of the whole thing, but in the interests of clarifying why I though Mr. McMurtrie's communications went well beyond a simple, decorous mention of availability, I'm including the note sent to our Chapter newsletter editor, stripped of some specifics: "It would be great if you could let members know my Reticulata Iris hybrids are now available. Malcolm McGregor will be publishing a couple of articles about my work in future issues of the NARGS Rock Garden Quarterly. For the moment its a matter of letting members know they can buy them; and at the same time trying to get wholesalers and retailers interested in selling them. If you are interested, you can reprint my article from the March issue of The Plantsman. Mike Grant says, "They do need to say it was first published in The Plantsman, and if they can add a link to our website that would be great (www.rhs.org.uk/plantsman)." ------------------------------ (deleted) is one of the companies selling my bulbs in the U.S. They sell: (4 cultivars, deleted) The Denver Botanic Garden should have some in their plant sale (via Jacques Amand) At the moment there is a big wholesaler in Canada distributing 6 of my hybrids via a couple of mail order firms and starting to get garden centres interested. I am trying to get wholesalers interested in the U.S. but its quite an uphill battle. Jacques Amand Intl. ships to the U.S. They do a bulk shipment to the U.S. and then individual orders are sent on from within the U.S. People can contact: (deleted) for details. The big advantage people get by buying this way is the best selection of my hybrids: (20 cultivar names deleted) People can find out more about my work at (deleted)" I truly bear Mr. McMurtrie no ill-will. His irises are beautiful. But, in my mind, he needs to find more appropriate channels for connecting with wholesalers, retailers and retail customers, all of which are the targets of his communications. I think what he is doing sets a precedent that we would not want to see followed on this list, because who's to say who's a meritorious small grower, who's a valid but well-established commercial grower, and who's a pest? There are other channels for advertising. And now, I think he's gotten plenty of the publicity he sought on this list! Ellen On Tue, Jun 28, 2016 at 10:42 AM, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > As a former list administrator of this list, I'd like to come to Ellen's > defense. This list was started on yahoo and then moved to my server where I > paid for it. In early 2003 we moved it to ibiblio.org where it and the > wiki has been hosted for free ever since. The majority of the members of > this list are not paying members of the Pacific Bulb Society and when the > list was started we agreed that if it was open to anyone who was interested > in the subject we would all gain by the information shared. But for a new > organization with few members and not a lot of money, having the list be > free was a big help. One of the requirements for being hosted for free was > not being a commercial organization that posted items for sale. We knew > people would be interested in what was available so we tried to come up > with a way of sharing that information without putting losing the list and > the wiki at risk. We suggested that people who had things to sell could > announce when their web site was updated and that they had something > special to sell with a link or an email address to learn more, but > requested that this not be a frequent posting. Most people were really good > about following those rules. We experimented with having a place where > people could sell and trade bulbs when Ellen kindly offered her website > when she stopped selling bulbs. But it wasn't used enough to justify the > continued operation. And we allowed sharing information about what someone > else had available by a short message with a link to learn more. And Mike > came up with a way to add sources of bulbs to the wiki so people could > search there (provided someone on the list recommended the source because > they had a good experience and shared that information with one of the wiki > volunteers who could add it to the wiki.) > > From time to time there has been discussion of moving the list once again, > especially since ibiblio is concentrating on collections, not lists, and > not longer offering the latter service to new groups. However, this > organization has a very limited number of volunteers that do all the work > and moving involves some time and effort (and expense). Whenever there is > discussion of changing the nature of things, there are diverse opinions > about what is best as well with a lot of people liking it the way it is. > > If everyone who subscribes to this list was allowed frequently to post > what they had for sale, I expect you would have a lot of requests from > people to unsubscribe. It's difficult to find a balance sometimes, but that > is what this list has attempted to do. > > Mary Sue > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From ds429@frontier.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <118254.88724.bm@smtp113.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 403 Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 13:43:08 -0400 Dear All,       The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto: ds429@frontier.com   Include "BX 403" in the subject line.         Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $2 - $5/share of bulbs or seeds)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.     Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:         If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY. Dell's email address ds429@frontier.com Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake.             I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Mary Sue Ittner: Bulbs/bulblets-fall and winter flowering:   1.       Oxalis bifurca 2.       Oxalis caprina 3.       Oxalis compressa 4.       Oxalis flava (lupinifolia) 5.       Oxalis imbricata 6.       Oxalis livida 7.       Oxalis massoniana 8.       Oxalis melanosticta 'Ken Aslet' 9.       Oxalis obtusa (coral) 10.   Oxalis obtusa MV5005A 11.   Oxalis obtusa MV5051 12.   Oxalis obtusa MV6235 13.   Oxalis obtusa MV7085A 14.   Oxalis obtusa 'Peaches & Cream' 15.   Oxalis obtusa (pink) 16.   Oxalis pardalis MV7632 17.  Oxalis polyphylla var. heptaphylla MV6396 (there is disagreement about this name) 18.   Oxalis purpurea 'Lavender & White' 19.   Oxalis purpurea 'Skar' 20.   Oxalis purpurea (white) 21.   Oxalis zeekoevleyensis SMALL BULBS: 22.   Tulipa batalinii (yellow form of T. linifolia) 23.   Tulipa humilis 'Red Cup' (don't know if this tulip is correctly named; see wiki for description 24.   Tulipa linifolia   From Paul Matthews:   25.   Seeds of Pamianthe peruviana Thank you, Mary Sue and Paul !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7249FEED-09F2-4803-9850-40FE4ECAE39B@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 17:21:58 -0500 Dear Friends, While we are talking about commercial aspects of PBS, let me make an offer. I have donated pounds of seed of Crinum bulbispermum to the PBS exchange and I think Dell has had his fill of this. I suspect there are still members and non-members who might still like to get a few seed. I have pounds of fresh seed again and I’d like to offer it to members of PBS and others. What’s the best way? Dell do you want me to send you a few pounds for the BX? Anyone do you want say ten large fresh seed for the cost of a small flat rate priority box to mail ( no charge for seed)? Does anyone need more than 10 seeds? I have mostly typical pink form of Crinum bulbispermum, but a few (less than a pound) from a pure white C. bulbispermum also available. Same deal. Anyone interested must contact me off list at jwaddick@kc.rr.com Offer only available in the US (Sorry). First acceptance goes to Dell. If Dell wants them for PBS I can send them to Dell and they’ll go into the BX offering. Any other ideas? Best Jim W. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ina Crossley Subject: Diane Martinelli Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 10:43:35 +1200 Does anyone have a contact email for Diane Martinelli? The one in the address booklet, bounced the message I sent her. I would like to ask her about some seed she donated to the BX in 2010. Ina Crossley From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <000001d1d19e$ddd9c710$998d5530$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 20:40:41 -0400 Same deal here! Tim Eck When a philosopher says something that is true, then it is trivial. When he says something that is not trivial, then it is false. Gauss > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick > Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2016 6:22 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: [pbs] FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds > > Dear Friends, > > While we are talking about commercial aspects of PBS, let me make > an offer. > > I have donated pounds of seed of Crinum bulbispermum to the PBS > exchange and I think Dell has had his fill of this. I suspect there are still > members and non-members who might still like to get a few seed. I have > pounds of fresh seed again and I’d like to offer it to members of PBS and > others. > > What’s the best way? > > Dell do you want me to send you a few pounds for the BX? > > Anyone do you want say ten large fresh seed for the cost of a small > flat rate priority box to mail ( no charge for seed)? > > Does anyone need more than 10 seeds? > > I have mostly typical pink form of Crinum bulbispermum, but a few > (less than a pound) from a pure white C. bulbispermum also available. Same > deal. > > Anyone interested must contact me off list at jwaddick@kc.rr.com > Offer only available in > the US (Sorry). > > > First acceptance goes to Dell. If Dell wants them for PBS I can send > them to Dell and they’ll go into the BX offering. > > Any other ideas? Best Jim > W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janjeddeloh@gmail.com Tue, 28 Jun 2016 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jan Jeddeloh Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2016 18:31:29 -0700 So is there any prayer of growing these things outside in the Pacific Northwest? It sounds like cold hardiness wouldn’t be the problem but would they get enough heat in our summers? Also our winters are really soggy. I will have a greenhouse soon (under construction) so seedlings could live inside initially but I’d want the great outdoors to be their home. Jan in Portland, Oregon > On Jun 28, 2016, at 3:21 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > Dear Friends, > > While we are talking about commercial aspects of PBS, let me make an offer. > > I have donated pounds of seed of Crinum bulbispermum to the PBS exchange and I think Dell has had his fill of this. I suspect there are still members and non-members who might still like to get a few seed. I have pounds of fresh seed again and I’d like to offer it to members of PBS and others. > > What’s the best way? > > Dell do you want me to send you a few pounds for the BX? > > Anyone do you want say ten large fresh seed for the cost of a small flat rate priority box to mail ( no charge for seed)? > > Does anyone need more than 10 seeds? > > I have mostly typical pink form of Crinum bulbispermum, but a few (less than a pound) from a pure white C. bulbispermum also available. Same deal. > > Anyone interested must contact me off list at jwaddick@kc.rr.com Offer only available in the US (Sorry). > > > First acceptance goes to Dell. If Dell wants them for PBS I can send them to Dell and they’ll go into the BX offering. > > Any other ideas? Best Jim W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ksayce@willapabay.org Wed, 29 Jun 2016 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <6F52BF2F-4EA5-414D-ADDA-9C6BC71A8CFC@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2016 17:39:53 -0700 I grow my C. bulbispermum outside in zone 8. It hasn’t flowered yet (seed from PBS exchange). It seems to have some agreement with the slug/snail population, as the foliage gets bigger every year Kathleen From ds429@frontier.com Thu, 30 Jun 2016 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <203424.76522.bm@smtp211.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Dell Sherk Subject: BX 403 CLOSED Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 07:19:17 -0400 Packages will probably go out in a couple of weeks. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu, 30 Jun 2016 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <00EA281E-AA67-4235-8AD2-CB1F77A446CA@kc.rr.com> From: jwaddick@kc.rr.com Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 16:42:08 -0500 Dear Friends, Dell was perfectly happy for me to send seed to members of PBS BX. To repeat: I can send 10 seeds of pink flowered (typical) Crinum bulbispermum ‘Jumbo’ for the cost of a small flat rate priority mailing box in the US. I have a much more limted suppply of white flowered C. bulbispermum I can include if you ask. For full mailing instructions send me a private email to jwaddick@kc.rr.com No later than July 10. That gives you 10 days to respond. This Crinum has been hardy outdoors in Kansas City for years with NO protection. I just think more people should have the opportunity to grow this beauty. Best Jim W. Does anyone need more than 10 seeds? I have mostly typical pink form of Crinum bulbispermum, but a few (less than a pound) from a pure white C. bulbispermum also available. Same deal. Anyone interested must contact me off list at jwaddick@kc.rr.com Offer only available in the US (Sorry). First acceptance goes to Dell. If Dell wants them for PBS I can send them to Dell and they’ll go into the BX offering. Any other ideas? Best Jim W. Dr. James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From markemazer@gmail.com Thu, 30 Jun 2016 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: FREE Crinum bulbispermum seeds Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2016 19:18:25 -0400 Also have pounds of this seed if someone wants it, Jumbo strain, ex. IBS, . Mixed colors, OP, from our most vigorous plants. Mark Mazer Hertford, NC USDA 8a On Thu, Jun 30, 2016 at 5:42 PM, wrote: > Dear Friends, > > Dell was perfectly happy for me to send seed to members of PBS > BX. To repeat: > > I can send 10 seeds of pink flowered (typical) Crinum bulbispermum > ‘Jumbo’ for the cost of a small flat rate priority mailing box in the US. > > I have a much more limted suppply of white flowered C. > bulbispermum I can include if you ask. > > For full mailing instructions send me a private email to > jwaddick@kc.rr.com No later than > July 10. That gives you 10 days to respond. > > This Crinum has been hardy outdoors in Kansas City for years with > NO protection. I just think more people should have the opportunity to grow > this beauty. > > Best Jim W. > > > > > Does anyone need more than 10 seeds? > > I have mostly typical pink form of Crinum bulbispermum, but a few > (less than a pound) from a pure white C. bulbispermum also available. Same > deal. > > Anyone interested must contact me off list at jwaddick@kc.rr.com > Offer only available in > the US (Sorry). > > > First acceptance goes to Dell. If Dell wants them for PBS I can > send them to Dell and they’ll go into the BX offering. > > Any other ideas? Best > Jim W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > Dr. James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki