A very good choice are the X Amarine Hybrids of the so called Belladiva series. They come in different colors, are vigorous and free flowering in my climate. I don't know how hardy they are. Nerine bowdenii does not flower in my Mediterranean climate but is still there. I used to have magnificent increasing clumps of it in my former garden in Germany. It might need colder winters than I can offer. I can grow Nerine sarniensis and its hybrids in the open garden. They start to flower now but are much slower to increase than N. bowdenii or the Belladiva Hybrids.
- Welcome to PBS Forum.
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
#92
Current Photographs / Re: October 2023 photos
October 02, 2023, 12:34:03 PM
They are notorious for that kind of behavior. But not only Tropaeolum. I have a healthy and firm bulb of Albuca clanwilliamigloria which has not sprouting in two seasons either.
Many desert bulbs behave like this as well.
Uli
Many desert bulbs behave like this as well.
Uli
#93
Current Photographs / Re: Colchicum feinbruniae
October 01, 2023, 12:36:01 PM
Hello Jane,
That is a very nice plant !
To get the dimensions right, what is the diameter of the pot like, roughly?
Thank you for sharing
Uli
That is a very nice plant !
To get the dimensions right, what is the diameter of the pot like, roughly?
Thank you for sharing
Uli
#94
General Discussion / Re: starting winter growing bulbs/seed/fertilizing
September 30, 2023, 05:09:02 PM
Here is my reply to another question I received
Fertilizing: I use a mineral fertilizer in powder form which must be dissolved and diluted in water. The NPK formula is 8-12-24 (+4) Are you familiar with the NPK formula? N stands for nitrogen which induces lush leaf growth, P for phosphorus, needed for flowers and K for potassium. Potassium will produce strong tough tissue and large bulbs. The (+4) stands for 4% of extra trace elements. This is an expensive fertilizer but as it comes as a powder a packet will last for a long time. The high potassium content and the low nitrogen make this fertilizer ideal for bulbs, succulents and cacti and even orchids but for orchids I only use less than half of the recommended strength. I fertilize all my potted bulbs by hand with a small watering can with the diluted fertilizer. Concentration as recommended by the manufacturer. As this is quite time consuming I generally only do it three time during the growth cycle: once the bulbs start into growth, second round before flowering and then again after flowering but before dormancy. This applies to adult bulbs. With seedlings I use a slightly weaker solution (maybe 30% more water or so, cannot say it more precisely) and more often. I always leave some of the diluted fertilizer in a sealed container to have it at hand if I feel a plant is hungry. I have never ever lost seedlings or bulbs with this regime. For seedlings especially I do an overhead watering with a fine rose with clear water after fertilizing to wash off remains of the fertilizer from the leaves. Especially hairy leaves might get damaged if droplets of the fertilizer remain and dry on the leaves. I also have other fertilizers for other plants, for example a nitrogen rich one for lush foliage plants like Philodendron, Alocasia/Colocasia, palms and the like. It would not be a good idea to use the two fertilizers the opposite way.
Uli
Fertilizing: I use a mineral fertilizer in powder form which must be dissolved and diluted in water. The NPK formula is 8-12-24 (+4) Are you familiar with the NPK formula? N stands for nitrogen which induces lush leaf growth, P for phosphorus, needed for flowers and K for potassium. Potassium will produce strong tough tissue and large bulbs. The (+4) stands for 4% of extra trace elements. This is an expensive fertilizer but as it comes as a powder a packet will last for a long time. The high potassium content and the low nitrogen make this fertilizer ideal for bulbs, succulents and cacti and even orchids but for orchids I only use less than half of the recommended strength. I fertilize all my potted bulbs by hand with a small watering can with the diluted fertilizer. Concentration as recommended by the manufacturer. As this is quite time consuming I generally only do it three time during the growth cycle: once the bulbs start into growth, second round before flowering and then again after flowering but before dormancy. This applies to adult bulbs. With seedlings I use a slightly weaker solution (maybe 30% more water or so, cannot say it more precisely) and more often. I always leave some of the diluted fertilizer in a sealed container to have it at hand if I feel a plant is hungry. I have never ever lost seedlings or bulbs with this regime. For seedlings especially I do an overhead watering with a fine rose with clear water after fertilizing to wash off remains of the fertilizer from the leaves. Especially hairy leaves might get damaged if droplets of the fertilizer remain and dry on the leaves. I also have other fertilizers for other plants, for example a nitrogen rich one for lush foliage plants like Philodendron, Alocasia/Colocasia, palms and the like. It would not be a good idea to use the two fertilizers the opposite way.
Uli
#95
General Discussion / Re: starting winter growing bulbs/seed
September 30, 2023, 04:59:59 PM
Dear All,
There is a thread on South African gladiolus on the email list to which I replied. I agree what was written but
as the membership is living in many different countries and climates and some may be beginners, I would still like to go into some details nevertheless.
In general, it does not hurt gladiolus seed if the winter growers are sown too early. They will germinate once the conditions are right, however, a seed pot should not be allowed to dry out completely after sowing. Even if germination may be delayed. The trigger for germination is the combination of cool weather and moisture (rain) and also a marked difference between night and day temperature. So the best timing is when this is going to happen in your climate. It will be much later the warmer your local weather is.
On the other hand, sowing too late may kill the seedlings during their first dormancy. Simply because they did not have the time to form a corm (or a bulb in other genera) which is big enough to survive the first dormancy. As a rule of thumb I stop sowing winter growers around Christmas for the very latest in the northern hemisphere.
Summer growing gladiolus should be sown in spring. They are less prone to loss during their first dormancy because a cool and dry winter dormancy is less demanding on the seedling corms than a hot and dry summer dormancy.
If you miss the best time to sow, it is no problem at all to wait for the next season, gladiolus seed can be stored (best in a fridge, not the freezer) for quite some time.
Once germination gets going, the small seedlings do benefit from repeated low dose fertilizer. And it is important to keep them green as long as possible in spring when the weather warms up. The longer they remain green the bigger the young corms will be. Rising temperatures trigger dormancy. So depending on where you live it might be a good idea to move the seedlings out of a greenhouse to a shady place in the garden or to move them from a place with full winter sun to a shady and cool place as well. That is what I do, my bulb seed is sown outdoors in a sunny place exposed to all weather in southern Portugal. During periods of heavy rain I protect from too much rain but without impairing ventilation.
In general I do not repot my gladiolus seedlings but leave them in the same seed pot for another season. I am always afraid that I might lose some of the often tiny one year old corms in the process.
Hope that helps, happy sowing!
Uli
There is a thread on South African gladiolus on the email list to which I replied. I agree what was written but
as the membership is living in many different countries and climates and some may be beginners, I would still like to go into some details nevertheless.
In general, it does not hurt gladiolus seed if the winter growers are sown too early. They will germinate once the conditions are right, however, a seed pot should not be allowed to dry out completely after sowing. Even if germination may be delayed. The trigger for germination is the combination of cool weather and moisture (rain) and also a marked difference between night and day temperature. So the best timing is when this is going to happen in your climate. It will be much later the warmer your local weather is.
On the other hand, sowing too late may kill the seedlings during their first dormancy. Simply because they did not have the time to form a corm (or a bulb in other genera) which is big enough to survive the first dormancy. As a rule of thumb I stop sowing winter growers around Christmas for the very latest in the northern hemisphere.
Summer growing gladiolus should be sown in spring. They are less prone to loss during their first dormancy because a cool and dry winter dormancy is less demanding on the seedling corms than a hot and dry summer dormancy.
If you miss the best time to sow, it is no problem at all to wait for the next season, gladiolus seed can be stored (best in a fridge, not the freezer) for quite some time.
Once germination gets going, the small seedlings do benefit from repeated low dose fertilizer. And it is important to keep them green as long as possible in spring when the weather warms up. The longer they remain green the bigger the young corms will be. Rising temperatures trigger dormancy. So depending on where you live it might be a good idea to move the seedlings out of a greenhouse to a shady place in the garden or to move them from a place with full winter sun to a shady and cool place as well. That is what I do, my bulb seed is sown outdoors in a sunny place exposed to all weather in southern Portugal. During periods of heavy rain I protect from too much rain but without impairing ventilation.
In general I do not repot my gladiolus seedlings but leave them in the same seed pot for another season. I am always afraid that I might lose some of the often tiny one year old corms in the process.
Hope that helps, happy sowing!
Uli
#96
General Discussion / starting winter growing bulbs/seed
September 30, 2023, 04:53:45 PM
Dear All,
After the BX distribution has arrived, I received questions of members how to start seed or bulbs of winter growing bulbs, in particular Gladiolus species.
Here are copies of my replies for all of you.
What the dormant corms/bulbs do not like is the combination of hot weather and moist soil. Some do not mind but many may rot. The same applies if the winter growing plants get too wet and too cold at the same time. Again, some do not mind, some might even take a few degrees of frost (I have not tested that and do not have frost in my garden) but it is better to avoid this combination in winter.
What must be avoided by all means is drying out of plants in full growth. If that happens (it has happened to me....) the plants will not die, they are geophytes after all. But if a certain degree of drought occurs, it will trigger the beginning of a premature emergency dormancy regardless in which state of growth the plant is. This is an emergency mechanism which secures the survival of plants in nature as many come from very dry habitats with unreliable rains. Once dormancy is initiated this process cannot be reversed by watering. The resulting bulbs will be much smaller than normal and flowers or flower buds will be aborted.
There is one aspect to pay attention to: if you receive very small bulbili/cormlets (smaller than a rice grain) they may benefit from the following treatment to break their dormancy. These very small bulbili are a life insurance of many bulbs and corms and can have a prolonged dormancy which means they may not sprout after planting. This can be overcome by soaking the bulbili in a cup of water at room temperature and adding just one drop of liquid dish washing detergent. This wakes them up, soaking over night is enough, max 24h. After this treatment they must not dry again and need immediate planting, water once and then treat like adult corms.
Talking about frost: I have visited South Africa twice, once in their spring and once in their summer, the seasons are inverted in the Southern Hemisphere. I was surprised how cold the nights could get in spring and although I did not experience this myself I was told that in mid winter there is frequent morning frost in some areas. I am talking about the areas most winter growing bulbs come from and not the skiing resorts on Drakensberg where I have never been. So depending on where the plants come from, they are used to be exposed to frost. BUT.... frost in a climate like South Africa, California, Chile or the Mediterranean is not comparable to frost in central or northern Europe. What is called an early morning frost in subtropical climates never penetrates into the soil and in general the frost only lasts a very few hours before and during sunrise. Daytime temperatures are then well above freezing or even warm. This constellation happens on clear, bright and dry days, so the plants exposed to frost are generally dry and not wet. I am writing this to avoid misunderstandings about frost tolerance of some plants. My recommendation is go grow winter growers frost free.
Growing South African Gladioli in northern European winters needs the following conditions: a place as bright as ever possible, full winter sun is best. Protection from rain (and snow) and frost but not warm either. The corms can be started into growth now, obviously in pots. These pots can be placed outdoors in a bright position. Dormant corms should be watered once after planting and then observed for shoots. Only water again after the first shoots have appeared. Pots should not be too small. In very wet conditions protection from too much rain is needed until growth is in full swing. Growing Gladiolus need regular water and must not dry and can be exposed to rain. Once the temperatures drop and the weather deteriorates, the pots should be removed from the garden and best brought into a cold greenhouse which is kept just frost free. Now it is important to find the right balance between temperature and water. The pots must never dry out, okay. But during overcast grey winter weather they must not be soaking wet either. If you use saucers never allow the pots to stand in water except for those species which require that (Zantedeschia, Onixotis for example) Air humidity is also important. A greenhouse must be ventilated in order to avoid mould forming and condensation on the plants.
If there is no greenhouse, a compromise might be a very bright windowsill in a cold room. Never place winter growing bulbs in a heated warm room with dry air. Indoor cultivation remains a compromise, light intensity is most likely too low and at the same time temperatures too high which leads to etiolated plants prone to aphids. If there are not too many pots it might be worth the effort to move them outdoors during mild sunny weather and bring them in again in bad weather.
Fertilizing will be discussed in a separate mail.
Happy growing!
Uli
After the BX distribution has arrived, I received questions of members how to start seed or bulbs of winter growing bulbs, in particular Gladiolus species.
Here are copies of my replies for all of you.
What the dormant corms/bulbs do not like is the combination of hot weather and moist soil. Some do not mind but many may rot. The same applies if the winter growing plants get too wet and too cold at the same time. Again, some do not mind, some might even take a few degrees of frost (I have not tested that and do not have frost in my garden) but it is better to avoid this combination in winter.
What must be avoided by all means is drying out of plants in full growth. If that happens (it has happened to me....) the plants will not die, they are geophytes after all. But if a certain degree of drought occurs, it will trigger the beginning of a premature emergency dormancy regardless in which state of growth the plant is. This is an emergency mechanism which secures the survival of plants in nature as many come from very dry habitats with unreliable rains. Once dormancy is initiated this process cannot be reversed by watering. The resulting bulbs will be much smaller than normal and flowers or flower buds will be aborted.
There is one aspect to pay attention to: if you receive very small bulbili/cormlets (smaller than a rice grain) they may benefit from the following treatment to break their dormancy. These very small bulbili are a life insurance of many bulbs and corms and can have a prolonged dormancy which means they may not sprout after planting. This can be overcome by soaking the bulbili in a cup of water at room temperature and adding just one drop of liquid dish washing detergent. This wakes them up, soaking over night is enough, max 24h. After this treatment they must not dry again and need immediate planting, water once and then treat like adult corms.
Talking about frost: I have visited South Africa twice, once in their spring and once in their summer, the seasons are inverted in the Southern Hemisphere. I was surprised how cold the nights could get in spring and although I did not experience this myself I was told that in mid winter there is frequent morning frost in some areas. I am talking about the areas most winter growing bulbs come from and not the skiing resorts on Drakensberg where I have never been. So depending on where the plants come from, they are used to be exposed to frost. BUT.... frost in a climate like South Africa, California, Chile or the Mediterranean is not comparable to frost in central or northern Europe. What is called an early morning frost in subtropical climates never penetrates into the soil and in general the frost only lasts a very few hours before and during sunrise. Daytime temperatures are then well above freezing or even warm. This constellation happens on clear, bright and dry days, so the plants exposed to frost are generally dry and not wet. I am writing this to avoid misunderstandings about frost tolerance of some plants. My recommendation is go grow winter growers frost free.
Growing South African Gladioli in northern European winters needs the following conditions: a place as bright as ever possible, full winter sun is best. Protection from rain (and snow) and frost but not warm either. The corms can be started into growth now, obviously in pots. These pots can be placed outdoors in a bright position. Dormant corms should be watered once after planting and then observed for shoots. Only water again after the first shoots have appeared. Pots should not be too small. In very wet conditions protection from too much rain is needed until growth is in full swing. Growing Gladiolus need regular water and must not dry and can be exposed to rain. Once the temperatures drop and the weather deteriorates, the pots should be removed from the garden and best brought into a cold greenhouse which is kept just frost free. Now it is important to find the right balance between temperature and water. The pots must never dry out, okay. But during overcast grey winter weather they must not be soaking wet either. If you use saucers never allow the pots to stand in water except for those species which require that (Zantedeschia, Onixotis for example) Air humidity is also important. A greenhouse must be ventilated in order to avoid mould forming and condensation on the plants.
If there is no greenhouse, a compromise might be a very bright windowsill in a cold room. Never place winter growing bulbs in a heated warm room with dry air. Indoor cultivation remains a compromise, light intensity is most likely too low and at the same time temperatures too high which leads to etiolated plants prone to aphids. If there are not too many pots it might be worth the effort to move them outdoors during mild sunny weather and bring them in again in bad weather.
Fertilizing will be discussed in a separate mail.
Happy growing!
Uli
#97
General Discussion / Re: Hand Pollination
September 26, 2023, 11:44:35 AM
I am not sure why it did not work. When did you do that? Lachenalia aloides flowers in late winter.
I would think it does not matter which tool you use to transfer pollen. As long as you did transfer. Did you see the pollen on the paintbrush? I noticed that in some Lachenalia flowers the stigma is visible, in others not. It might be worthwhile dissecting a flower to see where exactly is what. I agree that there may be some degeneration especially due to virus infection in plants that have been propagated vegetavely over a long time. Even more important to raise new stock from seed, the difference in vigor and flower quality is amazing. I do not think Lachenalia is self sterile: there must be another reason for your failure.
Uli
I would think it does not matter which tool you use to transfer pollen. As long as you did transfer. Did you see the pollen on the paintbrush? I noticed that in some Lachenalia flowers the stigma is visible, in others not. It might be worthwhile dissecting a flower to see where exactly is what. I agree that there may be some degeneration especially due to virus infection in plants that have been propagated vegetavely over a long time. Even more important to raise new stock from seed, the difference in vigor and flower quality is amazing. I do not think Lachenalia is self sterile: there must be another reason for your failure.
Uli
#98
General Discussion / Re: Uli - unidentified Cyrtanthus
September 23, 2023, 09:55:57 PM
Hello Mike,
Thank you very much for your message.
The Cyrtanthus from John Lavranos was never identified. There were no field data either. I am writing in the past tense because I lost it in the meantime, probably to Narcissus fly. But I must say that I did not really cry after it because it never flowered during the time I had it, maybe 8 years or so. It produced enormous amounts of bulbils which I shared on several occasions. Has yours ever flowered?
I know that Rimmer de Vries also has it. He sent me pictures of the flower but it turned out that the flower was from a Habranthus spec. which had self sown into the pot of the Cyrtanthus.
It is nearly impossible to identify a non flowering specimen of Cyrtanthus. From its looks it probably belongs to the montanus or sanguineus group.
It is indeed a good idea to enter it into mystery bulbs, maybe it has flowered with somebody else.
Sorry I cannot give you more details,
Uli
Thank you very much for your message.
The Cyrtanthus from John Lavranos was never identified. There were no field data either. I am writing in the past tense because I lost it in the meantime, probably to Narcissus fly. But I must say that I did not really cry after it because it never flowered during the time I had it, maybe 8 years or so. It produced enormous amounts of bulbils which I shared on several occasions. Has yours ever flowered?
I know that Rimmer de Vries also has it. He sent me pictures of the flower but it turned out that the flower was from a Habranthus spec. which had self sown into the pot of the Cyrtanthus.
It is nearly impossible to identify a non flowering specimen of Cyrtanthus. From its looks it probably belongs to the montanus or sanguineus group.
It is indeed a good idea to enter it into mystery bulbs, maybe it has flowered with somebody else.
Sorry I cannot give you more details,
Uli
#99
Current Photographs / Re: Sept. photos
September 21, 2023, 08:17:00 AM
Hello Carlos,
Is Squilla (not Scilla with a ,c') now the new correct name for Drimia maritima?
Yet a new set of labels to be written.....
Uli
Is Squilla (not Scilla with a ,c') now the new correct name for Drimia maritima?
Yet a new set of labels to be written.....
Uli
#100
Bulb and Seed Exchanges / Re: [open for orders] EU EX07 first fall distribution
September 15, 2023, 02:54:25 PM
Dear All,
Here are some informations concerning my donation to the current EU-BX
The Lachenalia bulbs were grown from seed, hand pollinated in this case. Seed grown plants are much more vigorous and healthy than the ones propagated by bulbils.
Some info concerning the seed:
Many packets will have the abbreviation o.p. which stands for open pollinated, some are marked h.p., hand pollinated. Some genera are notorious hybridizers, like Iris and Sparaxis, the offspring can be variable.
Albuca spec. Grahamstown, 50cm tall, upright bright yellow flowers, evergreen. This is the first plant I managed to propagate with microwaved pollen. The offspring is uniform and looks like the mother plant, setting seed with hand pollination. Spring flowering, similar to but different from Albuca aurea. Seed can be sown any time, with poor light conditions in winter better sow in spring.
Cyclamen persicum open pollinated colour forms. I do not know how true they will be from seed. The white one is particularly elegant.
Freesia Hybrid ex 'Red Passion' Hybrid seed does not come true. Sown early it may flower in spring, otherwise a year later. Seed grown Freesia are healthy and vigorous and it is fun to select your own favourite colours.
Hippeastrum seed germinates best with the water flotation method:https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hippeastrum
Zantedeschia aethiopica ex 'Flamingo', a good pink. I do not know if the seed will produce pink offspring, the plant is new to my collection. I found many empty seeds and only a few good ones. Seed size is much smaller than ordinary Z. aethiopica seed. The seed you get is hand selected. No guarantee for successful germination can be given, I will sow some of the remaining seed myself.
happy growing!
Uli
Here are some informations concerning my donation to the current EU-BX
The Lachenalia bulbs were grown from seed, hand pollinated in this case. Seed grown plants are much more vigorous and healthy than the ones propagated by bulbils.
Some info concerning the seed:
Many packets will have the abbreviation o.p. which stands for open pollinated, some are marked h.p., hand pollinated. Some genera are notorious hybridizers, like Iris and Sparaxis, the offspring can be variable.
Albuca spec. Grahamstown, 50cm tall, upright bright yellow flowers, evergreen. This is the first plant I managed to propagate with microwaved pollen. The offspring is uniform and looks like the mother plant, setting seed with hand pollination. Spring flowering, similar to but different from Albuca aurea. Seed can be sown any time, with poor light conditions in winter better sow in spring.
Cyclamen persicum open pollinated colour forms. I do not know how true they will be from seed. The white one is particularly elegant.
Freesia Hybrid ex 'Red Passion' Hybrid seed does not come true. Sown early it may flower in spring, otherwise a year later. Seed grown Freesia are healthy and vigorous and it is fun to select your own favourite colours.
Hippeastrum seed germinates best with the water flotation method:https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hippeastrum
Zantedeschia aethiopica ex 'Flamingo', a good pink. I do not know if the seed will produce pink offspring, the plant is new to my collection. I found many empty seeds and only a few good ones. Seed size is much smaller than ordinary Z. aethiopica seed. The seed you get is hand selected. No guarantee for successful germination can be given, I will sow some of the remaining seed myself.
happy growing!
Uli
#101
General Discussion / Plant labeling in hot climate
September 15, 2023, 02:19:03 PM
Dear All,
From a new member in Spain I got the following question due to illegible faded labels.....
Here is my reply:
For garden pens I stopped using the so called permanent markers altogether as none of them, whatever the brand was could withstand the southern sun. I find a soft grade classic lead pencil unbeatable, there are special garden pencils available, get one of these. The next problem will be brittle plastic. This year I am starting to put one label in the very bottom of the pot and another one sticking to the side as usual. It serves two purposes, the buried plastic will not become brittle and in case of loss or misplacement of the visible label there is a reference in the bottom of the pot.
Uli
From a new member in Spain I got the following question due to illegible faded labels.....
QuoteOut of interest what do you use to label your plants?
Here is my reply:
For garden pens I stopped using the so called permanent markers altogether as none of them, whatever the brand was could withstand the southern sun. I find a soft grade classic lead pencil unbeatable, there are special garden pencils available, get one of these. The next problem will be brittle plastic. This year I am starting to put one label in the very bottom of the pot and another one sticking to the side as usual. It serves two purposes, the buried plastic will not become brittle and in case of loss or misplacement of the visible label there is a reference in the bottom of the pot.
Uli
#102
Current Photographs / Re: Sept. photos
September 13, 2023, 12:07:36 AM
This particularly elegant form of Amaryllis belladonna is flowering for the very first time in my garden. The bulbs were given to me some years ago and were originally raised from wild collected seed. I like the faint touch of pink in the white flowers.
#103
General Discussion / Re: Oxalis ID question
September 09, 2023, 11:50:59 PM
Thank you, @Marc,
I looked at the Michael Vassar accession list but the number 76013 does not exist, neither a number 760B.
I have not yet contacted the supplier of this particular Oxalis, maybe he knows.
Uli
I looked at the Michael Vassar accession list but the number 76013 does not exist, neither a number 760B.
I have not yet contacted the supplier of this particular Oxalis, maybe he knows.
Uli
#104
Bulb and Seed Exchanges / Reminder EU Seed and Bulb Exchange
September 09, 2023, 02:27:53 PM
Dear Members living in the EU
The EU Seed and Bulb Exchange will go online next weekend. There will again be some interesting and rare material on offer. It will be announced again through the same channels so you will not miss the ordering time window. This is just another reminder.
If you still have some items to be included in this first round, there is still time to send it to Martin. Otherwise there will be a second round in October and the donation period remains open until further notice.
Please send your donations to
Martin Bohnet
Ludwig str. 1
73035 Göppingen
Germany
And please send Martin an email or a private message through the Forum so that he will know about your donation. His email: garak@code-garak.de
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to come back to me (Uli) johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de
Martin and Uli
The EU Seed and Bulb Exchange will go online next weekend. There will again be some interesting and rare material on offer. It will be announced again through the same channels so you will not miss the ordering time window. This is just another reminder.
If you still have some items to be included in this first round, there is still time to send it to Martin. Otherwise there will be a second round in October and the donation period remains open until further notice.
Please send your donations to
Martin Bohnet
Ludwig str. 1
73035 Göppingen
Germany
And please send Martin an email or a private message through the Forum so that he will know about your donation. His email: garak@code-garak.de
If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to come back to me (Uli) johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de
Martin and Uli
#105
General Discussion / Re: Oxalis ID question
September 08, 2023, 03:54:23 PM
Hello David and Eugene,
Thank you very much for trying to help. But unfortunately I did not get any further. I grow MV 4960B which differs from the odd 96013. however, I will check more closely once the two are in flower. Your explanation, @Eugene, sounds very plausible.
@David, the number 6018 on Michael Vassar's accession list does not give any information on the plant.
Thank you again
Uli
Thank you very much for trying to help. But unfortunately I did not get any further. I grow MV 4960B which differs from the odd 96013. however, I will check more closely once the two are in flower. Your explanation, @Eugene, sounds very plausible.
@David, the number 6018 on Michael Vassar's accession list does not give any information on the plant.
Thank you again
Uli