PBS Forum

This was too fun not to share. 

Corydalis malkensis (white)
Corydalis solida (red, Baker's mixed with other reds from friends)
Scilla bifolia
Helleborus torquatus

After the snowdrops and Eranthis, still brimming with Puschkinia and Chionodoxa

Michael
Interlaken, NY Zone 6

Hello All,
I know it's not the typical geophyte, but this Ceropegia is a conundrum.  I've been growing it for a year and it's not fitting the botanical description of C. occulta.  It came in as C. occulta DT6544 from seed, NARGS, planted 4/13/24.  Pictures taken 4/13/25 as I transplanted into separate pots.  The plants are dehydrated as I wanted them on the dry side to move.  Not my best pictures. As stems touched the ground, they rooted and went down to form rhizomes.  I've cut some off to grow out to see if they can be propagated in that manner.  C. occulta is said to be deciduous and this does not appear to lose stems.  Any ideas?
An addition: leaves are somewhat cordate/lanceolate, larger plants ~18cm across (not measured, I'll edit again, not at home now)  stem tip to stem tip, main tuber ~ 2cm when fully turgid
Thank you,
Michael
Interlaken, NY Zone 6

Just a few crazy snowdrops.  I think there are two duplicate cultivar flowers, the remaining are different.  Overnight it went down to 24F/-4C and they're all down on the ground.

The orchid is Pterostylis curta from the BX last year.

Michael
Interlaken NY z6

Started afresh as the last post evolved into a different topic.  

I forgot to mention, Trichoderma harzianum, found in a number of "natural" fungicides, can reduce damping off in some species.  I've used it a number of times and found it to be effective.  Unfortunately, it's somewhat expensive.  There are numerous products that appear when you search for it, be sure to review the label to be certain it is listed as a component.

Also, it's been used successfully in Galanthus to help control botrytis.  Control is the key word, not entirely eradicate.  I've tried it for other bulb troubles and was not effective.

There are many chemical fungicides available here in the US, most of which I believe are banned in the UK and elsewhere.  After many trials, copper compounds (copper hydroxide, particularly) have been found to be very effective in controlling damping off.  I don't know about UK availability on that.  There are some organic formulations that are being studied but are not available presently.

Cinnamon, turmeric, oregano (and more) were not reliable.

Quick caveat, I would be very careful using any of the copper compounds.  As with any chemicals, use all personal protection recommendations.  Don't expect the same results for all species.

Hi Jim,

Just a thought, is there noticeable damage on the side of the stem that faces the ground?  If so, the damaged cells may not have elongated correctly and the healthy cells grew out at a normal rate, bending the inflorescence as it lengthened.  The damage could have come from a simple knock to the side of the bulb during regular maintenance or a feisty critter passing by, batting at the stem.  I've seen stems on Hippeastrum bend like that from Stagonospora.  Perhaps something like that might be the cause?  This year seems to have been a little twisted in general, maybe it picked up on the vibe?  Just guesses, maybe others will have some input.

Michael
Interlaken, NY zone 6+

Hello All,

Concern about greater bulb fly is always in the back of my mind.  I've lost some real treasures over the years.  Lately, I've been using unmentionable chemicals with great success.  I use them only in potted bulbs and keep saucers under the plants to control runoff.  I am well aware of the toxic troubles as I use similar chemicals (and worse) at work under protective clothing, with respirators, and in hoods.  It's very specific application and not in actual growing conditions.

Is anyone using neem to control bulb flies?  It works surprisingly well as a systemic control for other things.  Combined with spinosad, I use it to control lily leaf beetles.  For me, it is a reasonable contact kill as well as having a lasting effect for about three or four weeks.  I have found that neem can be phytotoxic in some applications. 

Does anyone have similar experiences?  Bulb fly?  Lily leaf beetle?  Is anyone using beneficial nematodes?  I know GB and the EU have banned quite a few chemicals in recent years. Any thoughts there?

From what I hear, there are non-neonicotinoid, systemic formulations that are/will be coming available in the next few years, but that's another thing.  I have yet to dive into this.

I know this can be a somewhat decisive subject but it would be great to have some discussion on more gentle or specific use pesticides.  Certainly, not all "organic" pesticides are more gentle on the environment, but perhaps there are other options.  

Thank you,
Michael

Last of the Tulipa, first Crinum

Tulipa sprengeri from scattered seed about 6 years ago, seed from Alan Street, makes it even more special.  He liked to scatter it along the roadsides.  

Crinum 'Schreck' that has been in the same pot at least 8 years, probably needs a little more space but blooms seem unfazed.  

Hello All,

I'm looking to purchase or trade for tuberous and/or perennial Impatiens species.  Seeds would be Ok too.  

A few I'd like to find, but there are others:
Impatiens cinnabarina 
I. flanaganae
I. gomphophylla
I. mirabilis (I know, good luck with that.)
I. tinctoria
I. rothii

To trade, I have Strumaria of various species and ages (some blooming size salterii, to 3 yr seedlings), Haemanthus a few species, Eucrosia mirabilis (3 yr seedlings), various Clivia offsets (yellow, Belgian, maybe a gardenii), more bulbs... , snowdrops (good lord, yes, snowdrop cultivars), and other non-geophytic green stuff. 

Thank you!
Michael
Interlaken, NY  Zone... right now? Winter.

Hi Ken,

I selfed a nice yellow that I was able to select from a group of Monrovia plants a few years back.  The 30 seedlings have all green bases indicating yellow or some color than orange.  I believe that because this selfed cross produced seedlings with all light colored bases, it indicates that the plant is considered to be a Group 1 Clivia.  Regardless of that, 16 of them are variegated!  About half of those are very nicely variegated.  All plants are doing quite well with both variegated and non-variegated growing at similar rates.  Some in each group are faster than others. 

Some seedlings were lost early on, as expected, but it was before first true leaf development and before any noticeable variegation.  From past reading, if a mother plant is strongly variegated, it may produce seeds that grow out as albino seedlings or ones so heavily variegated that they die early on.  I've never really had this many seedlings to tend, but it is fun watching the development.  About 6 months on, half strength liquid fertilizer REALLY helped improve rate of growth.  Fertilization is weekly now, half rate.

I hope yours grow on strongly!

Michael
Interlaken, NY Zone whatever, it's 6, was 5, this winter 7, maybe 8.  It's snowing today.  Happy Spring!

Of the 7 seeds coming from C. nobilis x C miniata, 4 have germinated, three remain solid, no rot, but not germinating, about 20 weeks after sowing.  Slow indeed!  The first growth challenged seedling which started the conversation has yet to develop a true leaf.  The others are growing at about C. nobilis rate and are working on a second true leaf.

Of the 16 seeds from the last PBS Clivia seed distribution in November, the last one germinated this past week, 14 weeks after sowing.

Hello All,

I'm writing at the request of Hitch Lyman and his delightful snowdrops.  For those of you unfamiliar with him, Hitch makes available exclusive collector's bulbs and new cultivars of specialty Galanthus.  Some species are available.  Old favorite are scattered throughout the catalog. They are shipped in the green, in late April to early May. 

His catalog is available now, for $5.  Mail in requests only.  If you want to order, get the catalog ASAP as he sells out quickly of the rarest selections.  The catalog was sent out this week to those individuals who ordered last season.

Please request a catalog by sending $5 to:

H. Lyman
PO Box 591
Trumansburg, NY 14886

Sales only through the catalog. 

NO INTERNET AVAILABILITY OR WEBSITE.  He doesn't work that way.

I was given permission to make this post.  If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them.  If I can't give you an answer, I can reach out to Hitch.

Thank you!

Michael Loos

I'm glad you enjoyed it!  It was started in early 2017 with a couple of other species.  Some seedlings started blooming at three years old, but this is a first for this one.  So far, it's the best of the lot.

Ah yes, plant breeding, I should have said "hoped" for some sort of hybrid vigor.  Poor choice of words.  

I also meant to note that I had two crosses with different pollen parents, both C.m. aurea.  Neither cross is particularly vigorous.  I keep going back to the C. nobilis being slow.  Perhaps the species is slower?  Those plants from seed grew at about the half rate of miniata, gardenii, or robusta.  After 5/6 years the nobilis, while blooming, continues to be considerably smaller than the other species.  Maybe I'm hoping for too much.  The C.m aurea X C. gardenii from last season is still ripening.  We'll see.

Hmm.  My carefully worded post vanished.  The gist is:

Clivia nobilis x C. miniata aurea, seed set and harvested.  Small seeds.  Very slow to germinate, VERY small seedlings, trying 1/4 strength fertilizer to push them a little, but they are still slow - only to a tiny first leaf 6 weeks after germination.  Some are still germinating, some are not even that far, but seeds are solid.  The nobilis parent was slow also, but I expected some sort of hybrid vigor.  Any suggestions?  

Maybe I'll get this to post this time?

Thank you!

Michael
Interlaken, NY z6a or something.