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Messages - Jan Jeddeloh

Hi all,
My deadline for receiving seed for the fall exchange is a firm October 15th.  Any seed received after that date will be held for a subsequent exchange.  I'm leaving mid November for a trip to Europe and want to have this exchange all wrapped up before I go.

The US seed exchange is now open for donations until further notice. Please read ALL the instructions carefully and contact me at if you have any questions.
The seed exchange welcomes all non-ephemeral geophyte seed, but not in unlimited quantities.  I only need enough seed for a maximum of ten packets unless the seed is unusually desirable.  For more common seed I plan to only make up five packets.  Based on past experience this should be enough. Examples of seed with extraordinary desirability would be paramongaia and worsleya.  If you have seeds of these I'd really like to hear from you! Bulbs of these plants are either not available commercially or are very expensive.  For most seed a tablespoon is quite sufficient for five to ten packets.  If your seed is huge (pea size or bigger), it would be appropriate to send a bit more.  Do not send me massive quantities of seed; I will just have to throw it out.
Wild collected seed, with geographic collection information, is very welcome. Wild collected seed must collected in accordance with local laws and applicable regulations.
Please label each bag with the scientific name of the plant and your own name so that all donations are clearly identified and can be referred to the donor. I can take as small as one packet's worth of seed.  

If you are willing to prepack your seed please let me know how many free seed envelopes to send you. I get my seed envelopes from NARGS and these are what I will send you.  Be sure to include your mailing address.  Prepacking the seed will greatly reduce my workload.   Each envelope should have at least enough seed for a pot, generally at least 10 seeds. Rare seed can have less. You don't need to label each packet individually; just clip or rubber band them together.  If you're unsure how many seeds to packet just send me the seed and I'll pack it.  If you think your seed will be especially desirable and you have extra seed you can send it in a separate envelop and I will pack it as needed. 
You can also use your own envelopes to prepackage seed but they must 2" to 2.25" wide and 3" to 3.5" high.  The NARGS envelopes and #1 coin envelopes meet these qualifications.  Please do not package seed in plastic envelopes unless they are small enough I can easily pop them into the glassine envelopes. Plastic envelopes alone have a nasty habit of slithering to the bottom and hiding from me as I pick orders.   All the packaged seed is organized in coin boxes for easy and quick order filling.  This is why I need seed envelopes of a particular size.  
No one is required to prepackage seed.  I realize not everyone has the time, finger dexterity or inclination to package seed.  Jane and I have time to package seed.  Please however make sure your seed is clean.  Nobody like dirty seed.
If you wish to donate seed from outside the US please let me know.  I have a Small Lots of Seed Permit I can send you for your donation.  This form is required for all seed entering the US from foreign countries.

As a donor you will get a credit on seed equaling the postage you paid (rounded to the nearest dollar) for your donation. 

Please remember that you must be a fully paid member of the PBS to order from our seed and bulb exchanges. You do not have to be a donor to order, all US and Canadian members can order from the US seed exchange.  EU members have a separate seed exchange due to the requirement for a phytosanitary certificate for entry into the EU.

I anticipate the seed exchange will be open for donations until late September ish when it will be closed to prepare for another distribution

Send your seed to:
Jan Jeddeloh
1315 NW 174th Pl.
Beaverton, OR 97006
All the trillium seed went out Friday which means it should arrive in your mailboxes this week.  I have good news and bad news.  The good news is I had plenty of western trillium and enough of the eastern trillium that most people got what they wanted.  The bad news is I only had two packets of Trillium underwoodii and some seeds were in small supply so the seed packets only contain five seeds.  

As soon as you get the seed plant it immediately, and by immediately I mean that day or the next.  The seed is packed in little plastic envelopes with a bit of moist paper towel.  This means there isn't much air and the seed is likely to rot if kept in these packets very long.  If for some reason you can't sow it immediately remove the paper towel and throw in some VERY slightly moist potting mix or vermiculite or some such to hold it.  Even better transfer the seed to a regular baggie and add more moist soil.  The idea here is to keep the seed moist, but not soggy, and aerated.  

Some of the western trilliums may have some elaisome still attached.  If it's gooey wash it off, otherwise you can just sow it with the elaisome.  I've done this before and had good germination.

General Discussion / Re: cleaning Trillium seeds
July 29, 2023, 06:44:16 PM
I use the throw them in a plastic bag and let the elaisomes turn to mush and then wash them.  However it doesn't hurt at all to just plant them with the elaisomes.  That's how I got my kurabayashii.  Someone brought some ripe seed pods to our NARGS chapter picnic and told us to plant them immediately.  I squished them out of the berries the next day and planted them, elaisomes and all.  I had fabulous germination the next spring.
This seed exchange is first come, first served.  It closes July 30 at 5 pm Pacific Daylight Time.

This is a special pop-up mini seed exchange for trillium seeds and a couple of other species.  Unlike the regular seed exchanges this one will be first come, first served.  Orders will be numbered in the order they come in so don't dilly-dally.  All these seeds, except the Arisaema flavum, will need to be sown immediately.  DO NOT ALLOW THEM TO DRY OUT. They will all be shipped moist in plastic bags.
As with other seed exchanges the top of your order must have your postal address with your email below (in case I have questions later).  If I have to chase you down for this information your order automatically goes to the bottom of the stack.  
Seeds will be $2 per packet with a minimum of 5 seeds per packet.  Order by the name in bold.  In most cases there will be at least 10 seeds but if there is high demand you may only get 5 seeds per packet.  Shipping will be $4 domestic, international shipping at cost. Send your orders to
Donated by Charles Hunter
Here is some information from Charles regarding the hardiness of southern trillium:
"Hardiness is mostly related to late freezes for plants that are very early. Trillums do have antifreeze, but a few from north FL ( decipiens and north FL lancifolium) are so early that folks in northern states and Canada will find that they will emerge and bloom before hard freezes. Since they all grow fine outside for me in my 7b north Georgia garden, I do not have a reason to know how far north they can be grown outside. But Fred Case (author of the book " Trillums") stated in his book that decipiens and early underwoodii were not good outdoors in his Michigan garden due to repeated hard freezes after they emerge. Note that the Alabama piedmont underwoodii seeds I sent you are later to emerge and bloom and might do Ok in most northern gardens. The underwoodii found in north Florida and adjacent SW Georgia is VERY early, but I did not get seeds from those this year."
Trillium cuneatum
Trillium decipiens.  Very early, should be a pot plant in colder climates.
Trillium flexipes.  Southern form NE Alabama.  Heat tolerant.
Trillium foetidissimum. Native to eastern Louisiana and southwest Mississippi.
Trillium lancifolium.  Very early north Florida form.  Should be a pot plant in colder climates.
Trillium oostingii. South Carolina.  Mostly yellow-green flowers with a few dark purple. Rare form
Trillium pusillum
Trillium underwoodii. Later Alabama Piedmost form.  Better for colder climates.
I have fairly low quantities of these southeastern trilliums so early bird gets the worm. 
Donated by me, Jan Jeddeloh. 
Trillium albidum.  Hand pollinated. Pod parent is a particularly nice form.
Trillium kurabayashii
Trillium (kurabayashii x albidum) X albidum.  The pod parent is a mid-pink with nice wide petals. It is a cross I made some years ago.  I made this cross to try to get a pale pink.  I've planted a fair bit of the seed myself.  
I have fairly large quantities of these trilliums.  Let me know about how many seeds you would like but if you're really greedy, and I have the seed, I may charge you an extra $2 for a generous packet.  
Fellow shade travelers.
Amorphophallus kiusianus 
Arisaema flavum This is left over from SX13 but it's a nice shade plant that deserves some love.
I just realized I forgot to post the grab bag announcement in the forum.  Oops, sorry about that. As a result I'm extending the deadline until July 19th at 5pm.  

Here's my email to the list with the ending date and time corrected.  

QuoteOK gang I have two grab bags of leftover seed.  They are both more of less the same.  Each will cost $15 including shipping, or if you are non-US, $10 plus shipping.  

Here are the rules:

Requests must be addressed to <>

Subject line must read: Grab Bag-Seed Exchange 13

The body of the email must include your name and mailing address as follows: 

Joe Plantnut
234 Gimme Seed Street.
Plantsville, OR 96543

The drawing closes July 19th  at 5pm PDT.  I will then draw two winners and mail out the packets.


I found this scholarly article about E. japonicum seed germination. Since japonicum is closely related to sibiricum the methods it suggests seem like a good place to start.

So for the dens canis tribe it appears you don't want to start with cold as Mark suggests but rather with a warm moist period.  This would more closely match what they get in the wild.  I actually tried this using the paper towel method on one dens canis type (can't remember the exact species) and got germination but was not ultimately successful in growing on, partly because I wasn't in sync with the seasons.  

Here's the abstract of the article which gives you most of the nitty gritty.

Erythronium japonicum (Liliaceae) (Japanese name, katakuri) is indigenous to Japan and adjacent Far East regions. We examined their embryo elongation, germination, and seedling emergence in relationship to the temperature. In incubators, seeds did not germinate at 20°/10° (light 12 h/dark 12 h alternating temperature), 20°, 15°, 5°, or 0°C with a 12-h light photoperiod for 200 d. They germinated at 15°/5° or 10°C, starting on day 135. If seeds were kept at 20° or at 25°/15°C before being exposed to 5°C, the seeds germinated, but if kept at 25° or 30°C they did not. Embryos at 25°/15°C grew to half the seed length without germinating; at 0° or 5°C, embryos elongated little. Embryos grew and seeds germinated when kept at 25°/15°C for 90 d and then at 5°C. In the field, seeds are dispersed in mid-June in Hokkaido and in Honshu, mid-May to mid-June. Seeds do not germinate immediately after dispersal because the embryo is underdeveloped. Embryos elongated at medium temperatures in autumn after summer heat, and germination ends in November at 8°/0°C. After germination, seedling emergence was delayed, and most seedlings were observed in early April around the snowmelt when soil cover was 2–3 mm.
Maybe try sowing a couple of seeds now and save the rest and sow later?  Hedge your bets. 

Also Mark, the seed I promised you will go out tomorrow.
That is impressive problem solving Mark.  Maybe with your work we can finally get a second clone in the US.  I sure hope some of the seed germinates.  Where did you get the idea of using Gibberellic for this purpose?  

Lily growers sometimes get seed from a single clone using the cut style method?  Have you ever tried that?

Did you tell the clerk at the liquor store that you were buying Everclear, the drink of hardcore alcoholics, for plant pollination?  If you did I'm sure that was a first for them.

Mystery Bulbs / Re: Eremurus possibly?
June 26, 2023, 10:43:55 PM
Could it be a bulbinella?  
General Discussion / Re: Spotted Lantern fly
June 26, 2023, 10:26:48 PM
Arnold, are those bugs in your traps Spotted Lantern Fly?  I've seen picture of them and they are a rather attractive bug (visually only!) with red on the wings.  I can't see red wings in these pictures.  Are the wings just closed or are they nymphs or what?  Spotted Lantern Fly has shown up in a few nursery shipments but so far has not established itself in Oregon.  We're also worried about Emerald Ash Beetle and Japanese Beetle getting established.
General Discussion / Re: Stake woes
June 19, 2023, 04:30:11 PM
One of the gardens I visited in Great Britain used T-stick black labels by  They stuck labels made with a Brother labeling machine on the T-sticks.  White print on a black label.  They claimed these labels were pretty long lasting.  They gave me a couple to bring home but I've yet to give them a test.  One thing that appealed to me about the labels is their flexibility.  I think they have a reasonable chance of passing the "step test" as long as you didn't stomp on them too often.  The black color with white print is less glaring than the reverse.
Notes for SX 13
Eleftherios Dariotis is a Greek plantsman.  You can see his seed list here.
Moraea notes 
Moraea are naturally winter growers and expect to be planted and watered
in fall as temperatures drop. If they're planted in spring they may rot, or
they may germinate and then try almost immediately to go dormant, which
kills them. 
I have tried a few times to plant them in mid-winter, and even that doesn't
give them enough time to mature before summer.

"Moraea ciliata tall form:" This selection, from the Moraea King Bob Werra, is about 50% taller than the typical M. ciliata, and the flower colors range from bright sky blue to a smoky blue-purple. I can't decide which color I like best.

"Moraea villosa form O:" Seeds of the luscious magenta and blue form of the species, found at the extreme northern end of its range near Piketberg. They're easy to grow in my garden but don't seem to persist for a lot of years, so be sure to propagate them when you get the chance. For photos, go here and scroll down to form O:
About the Moraea hybrids and selections: I usually get only a few seeds from each cross, so it doesn't make sense to offer them individually. Instead, I grouped the seeds into seven mixes. I can't predict exactly what you'll get, because the genetics of Moraea are complex, but odds are it'll be interesting...
"Moraea villosa color mix:" These are all from species M. villosa, which has very variable colors. I hand-crossed about 15 different color forms of villosa for this mix. Every plant will be slightly different. To give you an idea of the range of colors, see the photos here:
"Moraea hybrids - selected bright colors:" This is a mix of crosses between some of my most brightly-colored hybrids, with tepals ranging from purple to orange. Many will look similar to M. villosa, but they'll be even more variable. You probably won't get a lot of spots or stripes from these, although you never know because they're very diverse genetically.
"Moraea hybrids - orange with contrasting eyes:" I selected crosses between some of my favorite orange-tepaled hybrids, which generally have blue, black, or sometimes green eyes. The species M. tulbaghensis and M. neopavonia are heavily involved in these crosses. If we're both lucky you'll get some flowers that look a bit like this:
"Moraea hybrids - spots and streaks:" I crossed some of my favorite hybrids that have spots and stripes on the tepals. I can't promise that you'll get spots on your flowers because the genetics are unpredictable, but these should give you a good shot at it. Parents include MM 17-10a,,  MM 15-89a and b, MM 19-26b, and others.
"Moraea hybrids - reddish and mauve flowers:" These are offspring from my continuing efforts to breed a truly red hybrid. I doubt you'll get a true red, but you may get oranges, mauves and brick colored flowers like MM 18-234
"Moraea hybrids - bright colors with rings:" Crosses between hybrids that have clear colors, bright eyes, and a contrasting mottled ring around the eye. The parents include some of my favorite hybrids, including MM 18-333c, MM 18-334a and b, and MM 18-312a
"Moraea hybrids involving M. insolens:" These are hybrids involving a species that bloomed for me for the first time this year. Don't get too excited; there are only a few seeds, they're very variable in size (which is not a great sign), and their viability is also turning out to be inconsistent. I have no idea what the hybrids will look like, but M. insolens is a beautiful flower:
Notes on Costus spectabilis
Costus spectabilis is a tropical geophyte typically growing on the forest floor in dappled sunlight or bright indirect light.  It should be grown in a well-draining soil mixture kept moist.  Deep pots are a must for this plant.  I bring my plants inside during winter dormancy and keep them at 60 degrees F so as not to kill the rhizome.  I would suggest referencing Volume 20, Issue 2 of the Bulb Garden for growing information on this rare and beautiful plant.
IDXExchangeNameNotesDonor Number Overflow
113Achimenes erecta 'Tiny Red' x SelfMauro Peixoto4
213Albuca concordianaSubmitted as Ornithogalum concordianumBob Lauf8
313Albuca glanduliferaSubmitted as Ornithogalum glandulosum Chris Cooper4
413Albuca spiralisBob Lauf8
513Arisaema flavum Yellow, OPRobert Parks10Y
613Arisaema tortuosumOPRobert Parks7
713Cardiocrinum giganteum var. yunnanenensePaul Smith6
813Colchicum ex 'Dick Trotter'Colchicum 'Oktoberfest' in vicinity.  Hybrids possible.Jan Jeddeloh
913Costus spectabilisSee notesBern Mlynczak10
1013Cyrtanthus mackenii White x selfMauro Peixoto3
1113Daubenya zeyheriMichael Mace3
1213Erythronium revolutumJan Jeddeloh5Y
1313Eucrosia mirabilisYellow flowered formRimmer de Vries8
1413Fessia greilhuberisyn. ScillaJan Jeddeloh3
1513Freesia fucataChris Cooper2
1613Gladiolus aureusMichael Mace3
1713Gladiolus debilisMichael Mace5
1813Habranthus magnoiFall 2022 harvestRimmer de Vries6
1913Hesperantha vaginataMichael Mace3
2013Hippeastrum  hyb (johnsonii x elegans)Mauro Peixoto3
2113Hippeastrum blossfeldiae 'Giant'Mauro Peixoto4
2213Hippeastrum calyptratum Paraiso'Mauro Peixoto4
2313Hippeastrum correiensesyn. Hippeastrum aulicum var. glaucophyllum 'Luna'Mauro Peixoto3
2413Hippeastrum elegansMauro Peixoto4
2513Hippeastrum glaucescens 'Ponta Grossa'Mauro Peixoto3
2613Hippeastrum hyb (calyptratum x aulicum)Mauro Peixoto3
2713Hippeastrum hyb (vittatum x ?)Mauro Peixoto3
2813Hippeastrum morelianum 'Extrema'Mauro Peixoto2
2913Hippeastrum morelianum 'Garrafão'Mauro Peixoto2
3013Hippeastrum morelianum 'Grota Funda'Mauro Peixoto2
3113Hippeastrum psittacinum 'Grota Funda'Mauro Peixoto3
3213Hippeastrum puniceumMauro Peixoto3
3313Hippeastrum striatum 'Petiolatum'Mauro Peixoto3
3413Lachenalia arbuthnotiaeVia NARGS seed exchange, see notesEleftherios Dariotis5
3513Lachenalia ensifoliaChris Cooper3
3613Lachenalia ensifolia subsp. maughaniiChris Cooper5
3713Lachenalia mathewsiiVia NARGS seed exchange, see notesEleftherios Dariotis5
3813Lachenalia mutabilisChris Cooper5
3913Lachenalia orchioides var. orchioidesSubmitted as L pustulataChris Cooper5
4013Lachenalia paucifoliaVia NARGS seed exchange, see notesEleftherios Dariotis5
4113Lachenalia pusillaChris Cooper5
4213Lachenalia reflexaBob Lauf3
4313Lachenalia trichophyllaLong haired formBob Lauf11
4413Lachenalia trichophyllaStubble formBob Lauf10
4513Lachenalia unicolorChris Cooper5
4613Lachenalia viridifloraChris Cooper7
4713Lapeirousia arenicolaChris Cooper4
4813Massonia depressaChris Cooper4
4913Massonia pseudoechinataChris Cooper6
5013Melasphaerula gramineaEx Terry SmaleRimmer de Vries7
5113Moraea ciliataTall form, see notesMichael Mace4
5213Moraea hybridsSelected bright colors, see notesMichael Mace7
5313Moraea hybridsInvolving M. insolens, see notesMichael Mace2
5413Moraea hybridsOrange with contrasting eyes, see notesMichael Mace6
5513Moraea hybridsSpots and streaks, see notesMichael Mace7
5613Moraea hybridsReddish and mauve flowers, see notesMichael Mace4
5713Moraea hybridsBright colors with rings, see notesMichael Mace10
5813Moraea polystachyaChris Cooper4
5913Moraea setifoliaChris Cooper5
6013Moraea simulansSee notesMichael Mace4
6113Moraea vegetaChris Cooper3
6213Moraea villosaHand pollinated, mixed colors, see notesMichael Mace5
6313Moraea villosaForm "O" from Piketberg, see notesMichael Mace7
6413Narcissus triandrus Labeled var. loiseleurii.. Ex Kurt Vickery seed.  HPJan Jeddeloh5
6513Pelargonium barklyiHarvested 2020Rimmer de Vries6
6613Pelargonium incrassatumRare pink form. HP.  Combined 2022 and 2023 harvest.Rimmer de Vries5
6713Pelargonium mollicomumHarvested 2020Rimmer de Vries3
6813Pelargonium ochroleucumCombined 2021 and 2022 harvestRimmer de Vries3
6913Pelargonium quinquelobatumEx EritreaRimmer de Vries10y
7013Romulea hantamensisChris Cooper4
7113Romulea namaquensis Chris Cooper3
7213Romulea pudicaMichael Mace7
7313Scilla monophyllosJan Jeddeloh3
7413Sinningia cardinalisScarlet red.  Needs 1-2 months rest after bloom.Rimmer de Vries7Y
7513Sinningia glazioviana 'São José de Barreiro'Mauro Peixoto5
7613Sinningia hoehneiCool season. Name not accepted by World Flora Online. Rimmer de Vries8
7713Sinningia leucotricha x piresianaNeed 1-2 months rest after bloom. Traits of both parents.Rimmer de Vries10
7813Sinningia minimaMauro Peixoto4
7913Sinningia schiffneriMauro Peixoto4
8013Sinningia tubifloraGarden seed. 2021 harvest. OP, Warningii in vicinity.Rimmer de Vries7y
8113Sinningia warmingiiGarden hardy zone 6.Rimmer de Vries7Y
8213Sparaxis hybrid mixChris Cooper2
8313Sparaxis metelerkampiaeChris Cooper3
8413Sparaxis parvifloraChris Cooper5
8513Sprekelia formosissimaMauro Peixoto4
8613Tecophilaea cyanocrocusFrom plants with a fair amount of white in the flowersJan Jeddeloh5
8713Tritonia dubiaChris Cooper3
Seed Exchange 13 is now open for orders until June 20 at 5pm PDT. You must be a paid up PBS member to order seed. Non-members may not order seed. Members in arrears for past SX/BX may not order seed.  I check. 
This list includes our final offering of seeds from Mauro Peixoto's Brazil Plants.  Most of this seed is in very short supply, in many cases I was only able to divide the seed into two or three packets. I try to allocate this seed fairly.   I will do a separate posting of notes sent to me by some donors, particularly Michael Mace our moraea donor. This information was too much to include on the spreadsheet.  I advise a least skimming the notes to see if there is additional information about the seed you are ordering.  
Some donors have large collections of a specific genus.  Unless stated that the seed is hand pollinated (HP) you should assume there is a possibility of hybridization.  
I will randomize the order and then fill one or two requests per person. After filling everyone's top requests I will then go back through the orders and fill the rest of the requests.  This gives more people a chance to get some of the rarer seed and prevents the top few from getting it all.  
Any order submitted by the deadline has an equal chance of being filled first. All orders should be submitted to with "SX 13" in the subject line.  Do not post your orders to the list!
The packet labels do not include additional information such as color, parents etc.  You'll need to transfer that information from the list.  Donor information is also available from the list.  In most cases the list now includes the number of packets available and if extra seed is available to make additional packets.  
Rules for ordering 
Your name, address, and email should be listed first on your order.  Give your address just like you would on an envelope. Don't string it across a line; I can't tell what goes on what line. This is particularly important for foreign addresses.  
For example:
Sue Bulbcrazy
2654 Bulbnut Ln
Bulbnutsville, OR 92013
Seed is $2 per packet.  Your bill will reflect postage credit for any previous SX submissions.  Domestic postage will be charged at $4 per order.  All previous orders shipped for under $4 to slightly over $4 per padded envelope so I am standardizing postage at $4 per envelope for all domestic orders.  The extra over the postage costs will help pay for the mailing envelopes. Foreign orders will be charged at cost.  You will receive a bill in your envelope which you can pay online at
List your 15 first choices vertically in numeric order. For example:
13 Narcissus bulbocodium 
14 Narcissus cantabricus
15 Romulea rosea
I must have both the seed number and name!
Unless you tell me differently I will assume you'll accept seed from a different donor if seed from your first choice donor is sold out. 
List your alternates in order of preference.  You can also include notes to help me pull seeds that will make you happy.  For example; "any gladiolus seed ok as alternate".  If you don't list alternates I will only send the first choices I have available. I am not limiting people to 15 packets but if you want extras I will process the amount in excess of 15 packets after I am done filling the other orders.
No seed orders from countries that require a phytosanitary certificate. New Zealand orders are at your own risk for postage costs.  As best I can tell my last order to New Zealand did not get through.  
It is important to follow the ordering rules.  Orders that don't, and drive me crazy trying to fill them, may be put at the bottom of the stack!  Don't make me do that. 
Contact me with any questions about the SX procedure, but not about the offerings, at  Questions about germination or the suitability of the seed for your climate should be posted on the forum.  

Seed list will be posted separately as soon as I figure out how to do it, again.