Germinating Sarracenia seeds

[Mikent]

I saw a listing for Sarracenia seeds and decided to try growing some, even though I have no previous experience with Sarracenia. The seeds are for Sarracenia 'New Hybrids' mix which is described as 'Hybrids of alata, flava, leucophylla, purpurea, and their hybrids.'

Online research indicates Sarracenia germination requires the seeds to be prechilled. Some sites suggest as little as 2 weeks, some state 8 weeks or more. The information supplied with the seed packet states 'For best germination, try 6 weeks prechill, then GA-3 and light.' I have tried Gibberellic Acid (GA-3) before, and was underwhelmed by it, so I'm planning on just the prechill. Should the 6 weeks be sufficient prechill, or should I maybe wait until this fall, so that I can prechill them all winter (in the unheated garage).

Since the resulting plants will be hybrids, do I need to worry about planting more than 1 seed per pot (i.e. - will hybrid vigor be an issue prior to plant maturity)?

Any experienced Sarracenia growers care to share tips?

The seeds should arrive Tuesday(ish). Fingers crossed.

[Martin Bohnet]

Hi Mikent,

I've never grown Sarracenias from seed but from what I'd expect from the mature plants, you'd better care for parameters like pH and low ion concentration. If they germinate anything like temperate Sundews, rain water and living Sphagnum should be your best bet, as it stabilizes moisture and pH. 6 weeks of stratification seem to be almost always enough, Deno style, but after that you'll be well into June and could end up with a rather short summer and, worse, hot temperatures for those young plants. I'd store at least a part of that seed cold and dry until fall.

That said, Sarracenias are not on the Wiki, but technically have a rhizome... I wonder if I'd get another bloody nose if I added them....

[Mikent]

Hi Martin,

I am aware of the pure water requirement. I was planning on using distilled water. I have a jug around somewhere, but should probably get a fresh jug. The old one was opened a few times (to water a Venus Fly Trap) and then has been sitting around for three or so years. It probably has a nice crop of yeast or something growing in it by now.

I was thinking that having the insect trap leaves around during the winter would help keep the fungus gnats under control, but then read that the traps die off for the winter. Guess I'll have to keep trying to find a Pinguicula gigantea in stock somewhere. They're always out of stock when I find somewhere that sells them.

How do we add the quote to our profile (like your "Southern Germany, probably zone 7")?

Mike
In the Finger Lakes area of NYS, Zone 6A (Where it hit 81 degrees today, but most of next week will be in the 50's.)

[David Pilling]

How do we add the quote to our profile (like your "Southern Germany, probably zone 7")?

Top right, your user name->Profile details

[Martin Bohnet]

indoor, I guess the Pingicula or perhaps a Drosera are the best bets against gnats, they are too light for venus traps and I'm not sure if they'd dive into the vertical Sarracenia species - Sarracenia psittacina works different and hunts ants.

Here in my Zone 7-8 I have better results with Sarracenias (as well as Venus traps) outdoors - they need a cold season to flower and rot is a problem in my barely frost free hibernation shelter.

[Rdevries]

I have grown Sarracenias from seed in lettuce boxes of peat moss. I started the seed in January outside in Michigan. Set the fresh seed  in a container of constantly moist peatmoss and let site out all winter, in spring you will seed tiny Sarracenias. Only use rain water and nothing with lime or ph buffers. So 4 months cold worked well.

[Rdevries]

These are the Sarracenias seedlings 14 years on 

[Leo]

There's a lot of information on the Web page of the International Carnivorous Plant Society, including extensive growing guides. The Sarracenia from seed article is linked at the bottom of the general Sarracenia plant growing article.

Leo Martin
Phoenix Arizona USA
Zone 9?

[David Pilling]

Pingicula or perhaps a Drosera are the best bets against gnats

I grew pings for a few years to trap gnats, they're interesting plants, nice flowers. The problem is that their leaf bearing season is shorter than the time gnats are active. It is a plant firmly tied to the seasons.

Seemed to catch plenty of flies. I managed to get rid of the plants by not bothering about the right sort of water.