Propagating Trillium vegetatively

[Robin Hansen]

I was just rereading an article by Dale Sullivan from a number of years ago regarding propagating Trilliums by notching a circle around the rhizome below the terminal bud.

Has anyone tried this, and if so, does it work? He says that disbudding could be fatal, and I've not done that but wouldn't risk it in any case.... My normal propagation method is seed, but T. ovatum is a cantankerous dude and less likely to set seed for me that any of the other trilliums I grow.

[Diane Whitehead]

Are you sure that T ovatum is not setting seeds?  Ants may be stealing them.

[Robin Hansen]

Oh, I'm positive they aren't setting seeds as the pods aren't forming after bloom, while all around ovatum, rivale, kurabayashii and others are filling up their pods. I learned the hard way with Asarum seed long ago to watch it by the hour when seed is nearly ripe. In fact, I've found I can get away with harvesting just before the pods split. The pods soften up just as Cyclamen pods do and change color a bit.

[Judy Glattstein]

If the tubers are relatively "lengthy" can you see the old annual leaf scars along the tuber? If yes, cut off the growing point with a couple of the scars and replant after treating cut surface with powdered sulfur to protect against rot. Scrape along top of tuber remnant, dust with rooting hormone and replant. Slow, but new growing points will form along the wound. Wait a couple of years and can then slice tuber and growing points apart.

And for the myrmechory - cut squares of old pantyhose, fold loosely over seed pods that are forming and close around stem with a twist tie. The fabric dries quickly after rain so no worry about mold. And when capsule splits the seed is contained.

[Jan Jeddeloh]

Robin, Cistus nursery swears by dividing them while blooming.  No joke.  They put out roots in the summer when dormant so this divides them in a relatively root dormant period.  

Jan