twin scaling quandry
Thu, 11 Dec 2003 21:36:08 PST
In Hippaestrum of which I have twinscaled a large number over the years the red colouring is a natural reaction to being cut- that's if it is the same colouring that I get. Its great to see the little babies when they start off! Hope this helped.
----- Original Message -----
Date: Tuesday, December 9, 2003 4:43 pm
Subject: Re: [pbs] twin scaling quandry

> In a message dated 08-Dec-03 5:36:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
> writes:
> Michael ~
> > I have a question about twin scaling Hippeastrum.  After 
> following a 
> > combined 
> > procedure by RHS and IBS, using Cleary's 3336F on the scales, in 
> sterilized 
> > perlite, I'm noticing an even pink coloration on the scales.  I 
> think, hmmm, 
> > 
> > damnable Stagonospora... yet I used Bonomyl (Benlate sub) for 
> soaking the 
> > bulb 
> > prior to storage, Bleach (1:10) prior to cuttage, and 3336F for 
> the final 
> > soak, 
> > alcohol rinsed surfaces and sterile razors.  Do Hippeastrum show 
> red or pink 
> > 
> > as a form or oxidation to damaged cells or is my culture simply 
> > contaminated? 
> > Any remedies?
> > 
> I've not TS-ed hippeastrum, but have done a considerable amount 
> with 
> daffodils (Narcissus) which, as tunicate bulbs, respond the same.
> I'm not certain what you describe as "an even pink coloration on 
> the scales" 
> really is.  Is it clearly a fungus?  I know that many bulbs of 
> Hipp. are 
> plagued with stagonospora.  The only cure I've seen for it is the 
> hot water 
> treatment procedure.
> It sounds from your description that you've done everything right. 
> I'd make 
> two observations, however.  Benomyl (and similar compounds) do not 
> eradicate 
> these fungi, they only suppress them.  Depending on the conditions 
> during 
> incubation determines whether the suppression will hold or break 
> down.  One point 
> where this process often fails for many people is that the 
> incubation medium 
> becomes too wet.  I usually take the sections of the scaled bulb 
> out of the 
> fungicide soak and drain them on paper toweling until dry.  
> They're then placed 
> into Baggies with some barely damp medium (I usually use peat 
> moss).  When I say 
> "barely damp" that is exactly what it has to be.  The object of 
> the medium is 
> to assist in maintaining the humidity level.  You're probably only 
> going to 
> be raising it around 20-30% -- it doesn't take much additional 
> moisture to do 
> that.  And the other problem is that, as living tissue, these 
> sections expire 
> moisture.  That moisture collects in the sealed Baggie.  One has 
> to check the 
> moisture content every two or three weeks and replace the medium 
> or leave the 
> Baggie open for some time to dry out the medium and contents.  
> With strict 
> attention to the moisture in the incubation process, this whole 
> thing is 
> relatively easy to do and usually quite successful.  I have, 
> however, gone to larger 
> sections and no longer work with true twin-scales.  They are so 
> small that it 
> just introduces another variable that has to be monitored and 
> controlled.
> Dave Karnstedt
> Cascade Daffodils
> P. O. Box 237
> Silverton, Oregon  97381-02378
> email:
> Cool Mediterranean climate of wet winters and hot dry summers; 
> USDA Zone 7-8
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list

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