Species Lilies--TOW

Kenneth Hixson khixson@nu-world.com
Thu, 05 Jun 2003 10:08:01 PDT
Hi, members
	Not all lilies normally produce stem roots or bulblets, so don't
be distressed if yours don't.

L. lankongense and L. wardii. 
	These lilies are sometimes grown in large containers because they
are stoloniferous, and the containers keep them confined.

>L. auratum -The reason being the 
>roots were often removed prior to packing, and in transit they lost much 
>moisture resulting in poor quality bulbs being sold. 
>Modern transport and packing methods plus being raised from seed in this 
>country enables top quality bulbs to be purchased. 
>This species has been much used in hybridising, and rightly so in my 
>opinion. It flowers in late summer.
	With the largest flowers in lilydom (except possibly some of the
longiflorum hybrids now being developed), there is reason for this species
to be greatly desired.  Unfortunately, most of the early forms were rather 
virus susceptible, and many didn't last long in the garden.  Newer selections
are usually longer lasting, and some hybrids also last well in the garden.
Unfortunately most oriental hybrids now being selected are intended for
forcing, and only the upright flower habit seems to be acceptable.
In the garden, the outfacing flowers of L. auratum are more attractive.
The fragrance is potent and far reaching, unfortunately another character
that is being selected against for forcing lilies.
	There is a true dwarf, to two feet or so (Tom Thumb), and there are
also dwarf oriental hybrids, though they aren't commonly available.

>L. hansonii-Only one form has been available for years, propagated
It is self infertile, so seed is rarely offered.  More L hansonii were 
introduced a few years ago.  I am still looking for a different form to 
cross with the L. hansonii I have, which is the old, vegetatively propagated 

	L. hansonii has been hybridized with L. martagon and L. tsingtauense,
but hybrids are slow growing and thus relatively expensive.  The martagon
group generally is slow to multiply and resents being moved, often not
flowering for a year or two afterwards.  In addition, flowers are
generally smaller than some other lilies-which means that for the most 
part, people who can grow orientals and trumpets, usually do.  People
who live in cold climates where those types of lilies aren't hardy, grow 
martagon lilies.  Look to nurseries in Canada for best selection.  The
high price you must pay will be in part ofset by the fact that a martagon
or martagon hybrid may well outlive you, which isn't true of all lilies.
>L tsingtauense  an unusual lily. 
	In addition to the odd flower color, this lily has attractive mottled
foliage, at least when young.

>L. lancifolium, the famed Tiger Lily.  
The form of L lancifolium usually available is a triploid, which doesn't 
set seed. Sometimes offered is a double form of the triploid, which people 
either love or hate.  It should be noted that the triploid forms are usually 
regarded as heavily infected with virus of several kinds, and as such should 
be kept well away from most other lilies.  The vector is usually regarded as 
aphids, so keep L. lancifolium as far away from other lilies as aphids will
	There are diploid, hence fertile forms sometimes available, of both the 
orange type, and var. flaviflorum, lemon yellow. They are much less vigorous, 
and when I lost them, I didn't replace them.  There are other forms listed,
I haven't seen them offered.
	The triploid form doesn't set seed, but it has been found that triploid
lilies will cross with tetraploid lilies, to yield a few seeds.  I've never
heard of anyone trying this, but it might be possible to develop a fertile,
tetraploid form of the tiger lily.	  It has also been found that virus
may be eliminated by tissue culturing, but only some of the resulting lilies
will be virus free, and all must be tested to find which ones are virus free.
All this is somewhat expensive, and hard to justify for a lily which is so
readily available.

>L. nepalense 
	As a plant of the himalaya mountains, this is usually regarded as being
intolerant of being wet in winter, when it would normally be under snow cover.
In consequence, it is usually reported to thrive best when grown in one of two
	1) grown in the ground, dug up when it dies down, and placed in a
plastic bag of peat or perlite, with almost no moisture-as in a few drops of
water.  The plastic bag is carried over winter in the refrigerator (NOT the
freezer).  As it has a relatively short alpine season, it may be in the 
refrigerator for 6 or 7 months before replanting.
	2) grown in a pot, which is taken into a frost free area (garage) and
turned on its' side for the winter.  L. nepalense is stoloniferous, and some
people report it grows out of the bottom of the pot.  It is sometimes
that the dirt be removed from the top of the pot, so just the tip of the bulb
is exposed to light, causing the stem to grow upright.  When the new stem
starts growing, gradually fill in the pot to a normal level.  This may or may
not work.
	With its' exotic beauty, L. nepalense has been hybridized with a number
of other lilies, by several people.  Occasionally seed of "Mclaren hybrids"
is offered, but most people report they show no sign of L. nepalense.  Hybrids
with orientals have been made, and are being made, but so far I don't know
of any which are available.

>L. regale 
 The 'crown' of flowers at the top of the stems is an umbel.  The pictures in
catalogs almost always show flowers in a raceme-so either what is being
is not L. regale, or the people making the catalog didn't bother to get an
accurate picture.  You decide.  L regale is widely known for producing seed
which resembles almost exactly the mother, in one case pollen was put on L.
for five generations, and the seedlings still resembled L. regale.
	As a pollen parent, the first generation seedlings flower in the umbel, 
which is usually considered inferior to a raceme.  The leaves are relatively 
narrow, and tend to "scorch" when forced, so isn't in demand for that.  The 
stems invariably lean, especially when the head of flowers start to open,
so don't
place it where you will brush against it when walking by.  Lily pollen is an 
obvious stain (lemon juice, or cold cream, is an effective pollen remover).  
The result is that L. regale is less used in making trumpet lilies than other 
	With all its' faults, L. regale is the hardiest trumpet lily, stands
virus well, will tolerate hot dry spots with no summer water.

	L regale Album is often offered, and lacks most or all of the maroon 
that stains the outside of the trumpets of the type.  Throat of the trumpet 
is still yellow inside, and there may be tinges of green or maroon, but 
the flower is basically white.

>L. speciosum  One of the latest lilies, even in September here, there are
many selections, an early one (punctatum), Album is white, and others from
palest pink to deep rose.  L speciosum, when crossed with L. auratum, was
one of the founding parents of the oriental lily hybrids.
	L speciosum gloriosoides has been recently reintroduced from China,
and is very different from the more common type.  

L. washingtonianum  The form I have is L. w. purpurescens, opening white
then aging pink, then rose, finally almost purple.  The fragrance is heavenly,
possibly the nicest lily of all in that respect.
	What Jane reports is typical of what is written about this lily, and 
is completely at odds with my experiences.  I find it relatively easy in the 
garden, even when watered regularly all summer.  The hard part is getting 
it in the first place.  When I was growing up, it was an occasional plant 
on the floor of the Willamette Valley, Oregon, elevation about 4 Hundred 
feet, not 4 thousand feet.  There was a plant in a fencerow within about
three hundred feet of the front door of our home.  It is now very rare or 
extinct in the valley because of grazing and cultivation.
	I could go on and on about this lily, but this post is far too long
already.	Ken

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