From ron_redding@hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 04:52:34 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ronald Redding" Subject: Is it Love? Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 18:52:28 +1000 Dear All, Today I have discovered a flower spike on a plant that is quite significant to me. I have many others like it and have produced flowers from them. This was the first of its kind that I ever obtained. I still remember the time I eventually tracked down where I could obtain one and was amazed at the asking price, I was able to convince the supplier I could grow this plant as I had done an enormous amount of research and even though he only had a tiny plant left he still could get a large amount of money for it he never sold them so small. My (looking back now) tiny little plant arrived and ooh how I loved it. I cared for it, sheltered it and brought it inside if it got too cold. I tried everything to convince it to grow big and strong, gave it the best food money could buy and even danced if front of it naked under the light of a full moon. Year after year it still did not respond I did not realise it was me being cultivated and that it was helping me become better and teaching me many valuable lessons. After much trial and error the last two years have proven that I am finally getting many things right it has flourished and as if I have finally learned enough and now as a sign of respect a flower spike. The man that I bought the plant from was Errol Cosh who provided me with much guidance and encouragement who I am happy to say I have met and who has not only shared his knowledge but stories, food and drink. The plant is a worsleya and is truly something that you can fall in love with. Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia _________________________________________________________________ Search for local singles online @ Lavalife http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Flavalife9%2Eninemsn%2Ecom%2Eau%2Fclickthru%2Fclickthru%2Eact%3Fid%3Dninemsn%26context%3Dan99%26locale%3Den%5FAU%26a%3D23198&_t=751140432&_r=emailtaglines_search_aug06&_m=EXT From ixia@dcsi.net.au Fri Sep 1 04:59:28 2006 Message-Id: <000501c6cda4$ef5789e0$0201a8c0@Ixia> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Is it Love? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 18:59:24 +1000 Hi Ron, nice story. You must be getting too much sun in Hervey Bay. regards, Bill Richardson, Ixia King Winter -2c. to 15C.. at present West Gippsland, Victoria, Australia ixia@dcsi.net.au Ixia Website: www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia "Almost any garden, if you see it at just the right moment, can be confused with Paradise" Henry Mitchell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronald Redding" To: Sent: Friday, September 01, 2006 6:52 PM Subject: [pbs] Is it Love? > Dear All, > > Today I have discovered a flower spike on a plant that is quite significant > to me. I have many others like it and have produced flowers from them. This > was the first of its kind that I ever obtained. I still remember the time I > eventually tracked down where I could obtain one and was amazed at the > asking price, I was able to convince the supplier I could grow this plant as > I had done an enormous amount of research and even though he only had a tiny > plant left he still could get a large amount of money for it he never sold > them so small. My (looking back now) tiny little plant arrived and ooh how I > loved it. I cared for it, sheltered it and brought it inside if it got too > cold. I tried everything to convince it to grow big and strong, gave it the > best food money could buy and even danced if front of it naked under the > light of a full moon. > > Year after year it still did not respond I did not realise it was me being > cultivated and that it was helping me become better and teaching me many > valuable lessons. After much trial and error the last two years have proven > that I am finally getting many things right it has flourished and as if I > have finally learned enough and now as a sign of respect a flower spike. The > man that I bought the plant from was Errol Cosh who provided me with much > guidance and encouragement who I am happy to say I have met and who has not > only shared his knowledge but stories, food and drink. The plant is a > worsleya and is truly something that you can fall in love with. > > > > > > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes > Ron Redding > Hervey Bay > Australia > > _________________________________________________________________ > Search for local singles online @ Lavalife > http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Flavalife9%2Eninemsn%2Ecom%2Eau%2Fclickthru%2Fclickthru%2Eact%3Fid%3Dninemsn%26context%3Dan99%26locale%3Den%5FAU%26a%3D23198&_t=751140432&_r=emailtaglines_search_aug06&_m=EXT > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From mmattus@charter.net Fri Sep 1 08:16:19 2006 Message-Id: From: MATTHEW MATTUS Subject: Is it Love? Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 08:17:14 -0400 Wow, Ron... Congratulations! Many of us have traveled down a similar path, only to find disaster along the way, as promised. Some may say that you've achieved one of the holy grails of horticulture, others may disagree. But regardless, you are fortunate to have obtained a legal bulb, and an achievement none the less to both your skills as a gardener and of your patience! I was just feeling pretty proud of my Boophane disticha bulb that I invested in last year, since it finally broke it's dormancy and has sent up a nice fan of foliage this summer. I hope that you have a camera at the ready, and will be sharing images. Can you share some of your cultivation facts with us? Soil, fertilizer , if any, temperature, any opinions on what, in your experience, triggered the spike? Not that many of us will ever have a chance to grow a Worsleya, I don't think I will again for obvious reasons of legality, morality and resources, since most bulbs are wild collected, I've been told, but one never knows when a cultivated plant may seed or be passed on. Since there is very little information out there on cultivating Worsleya, any notes are welcome just in case I wake up some Sunday morning and go out the front door to get my paper, and someone leaves an orphaned Worsleya on my doorstep... Matt Mattus Worcester, Massachusetts USA Zone 5b On 9/1/06 4:52 AM, "Ronald Redding" wrote: > Dear All, > > Today I have discovered a flower spike on a plant that is quite significant > to me. I have many others like it and have produced flowers from them. This > was the first of its kind that I ever obtained. I still remember the time I > eventually tracked down where I could obtain one and was amazed at the > asking price, I was able to convince the supplier I could grow this plant as > I had done an enormous amount of research and even though he only had a tiny > plant left he still could get a large amount of money for it he never sold > them so small. My (looking back now) tiny little plant arrived and ooh how I > loved it. I cared for it, sheltered it and brought it inside if it got too > cold. I tried everything to convince it to grow big and strong, gave it the > best food money could buy and even danced if front of it naked under the > light of a full moon. > > Year after year it still did not respond I did not realise it was me being > cultivated and that it was helping me become better and teaching me many > valuable lessons. After much trial and error the last two years have proven > that I am finally getting many things right it has flourished and as if I > have finally learned enough and now as a sign of respect a flower spike. The > man that I bought the plant from was Errol Cosh who provided me with much > guidance and encouragement who I am happy to say I have met and who has not > only shared his knowledge but stories, food and drink. The plant is a > worsleya and is truly something that you can fall in love with. > > > > > > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes > Ron Redding > Hervey Bay > Australia > > _________________________________________________________________ > Search for local singles online @ Lavalife > http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Flavalife9%2Eninemsn%2Ecom%2Eau > %2Fclickthru%2Fclickthru%2Eact%3Fid%3Dninemsn%26context%3Dan99%26locale%3Den%5 > FAU%26a%3D23198&_t=751140432&_r=emailtaglines_search_aug06&_m=EXT > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From lwallpe@juno.com Fri Sep 1 11:29:58 2006 Message-Id: <20060901.082835.5614.836385@webmail02.lax.untd.com> From: "lwallpe@juno.com" Subject: Lycoris Pests & Diseases Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 15:28:35 GMT Jim & James - My apologies, I should have added more information to my query. Messages written while in a hurry............. I have L. sprengeri in half a dozen places around our garden here in Cincinnati, Ohio. They were spectacular this year. I credited that to the ample rain we received this year in late April through May. The L. chieninsis has been down for 5-6 years and made a glorious clump of blooms last spring. After the sprengeri bloomed so profusely I was really looking forward to the golden chieninsis. Didn't happen. Bulb fly may be a possibility, I have about a thousand varieties of daffodils, but I can't say that I noticed that slow buzzer this spring. In the rain this morning I noticed a nearby Hosta 'Patriot' is not doing well either. I will dig and see if there's anything there. Hadn't yet, hopeing that they would emerge late. Linda W. Why not dig your bulbs and check for damage? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the somewhat soapy, peony-like scent of Passiflora incarnata and the sour scent of boxwood fill the house daily. These scents are a bit like cilantro: you have to get used to them; but once you do, it's hard to imagine how you got by without them. ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 12:22:37 -0500 From: James Waddick Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" Hi Linda; I said 'few' pests and only because I might have defend 'NONE", but nothing really bothers them once they have settled in and start to bloom. The only time I have seen Lycoris decrease is when they are repeatedly cut back too early. Here they are such common plants (l. squamigera) that some folks don't realize (or care?) the foliage and flowering stems even go together. The zero-scapers, just mow the foliage after its been there too long and hasn't bloomed. Then it won't bloom and the cycle repeats. Actually I don't know anything that bothers them here, but if you live where there are narcissus flies, they might get to them. I suppose they could get a virus, but I never heard of any, etc. They do not do well in all parts of the country so that's why I asked. L. chinensis is a spring foliage plant and it doesn't do so well in the deep south for example. On the other hand this is a good time to dig, divide and transplant. Just do not disturb or break (too many) roots and plant them in a moist shady site. Best Jim >Jim W - > >I had a clump of L. chienensis that was increasing nicely but this >year has failed to bloom and as I now recall spring, there was less >foliage than there should have been. I hate that I've lost it, I >enjoyed those golden blooms greatly! > >At one point in this thread, you wrote that Lycoris suffered from few >pests or diseases. Would you please expand a bit on that? > >Thanks! >Linda W. > -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 18:07:45 -0500 From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies and wetness To: Message-ID: <004901c6cc89$1c2c02b0$6501a8c0@Petunia> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original but if you want to grow them in containers, you might try growing some of the above with saucers under the containers and see if they perform any differently for you. +++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, A very good idea. Maybe I'll get organized next year and try them in saucers. Thanks for the tip. Joe ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 18:35:32 -0500 From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers To: Message-ID: <004b01c6cc8d$086f8860$6501a8c0@Petunia> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large pots (5 gal. or larger) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, More good advice about growing rainlilies. I guess I'll have to move my plants up to larger containers. Maybe this winter will provide the time. I do like the rainlilies, and I now I think I've been mistreating them. They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. The instars (juveniles are black and red, or black and yellow). The adults are a psychadelic mix of yellow, red, orange, black, tan, and sometimes a hint of green. Both adults and juveniles devour amaryllids. Rainlilies are mowed to the ground unless I keep control of the grasshoppers. The insects actually remove all foliage and flower buds, and rainliles seem as if they are "gone." Once I put out insecticide the rainliles come back. Eastern Lubber Grasshoppers like Crinum, Hippeastrum, Hymenocallis, and all sorts of related plants. I think they survive from year-to-year in my yard because I won't put insecticides in the low areas of my yard, the places where runoff can enter nearby ponds. LINK: Photo, Close-up of Adult and Juvenile http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber1.jpg LINK: Photo, Feeding Frenzy, Juveniles Devouring Hymenocallis near the Trinkity River in Texas http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber2.jpg They will eat leaves, flowers, seed pods, seeds, and perhaps slow- moving people. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX The weather has cooled a bit and maybe the fall-blooming bulbs will begin their shows. A few oxblood lilies have come up but the heat fried the blooms last week. ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 09:50:08 +1000 From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Message-ID: <001b01c6cc8f$099cf9f0$0201a8c0@Ixia> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi Joe, this is not quite true. I grow mine in small pots and they do well here. I keep them wet all winter and every year they multiply and flower well. We get fairly wet winters although mild - not many frosts. regards, Bill Richardson, Ixia King Winter -2c. to 15C.. at present West Gippsland, Victoria, Australia ixia@dcsi.net.au Ixia Website: www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia "Almost any garden, if you see it at just the right moment, can be confused with Paradise" Henry Mitchell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2006 9:35 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers > Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will > tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large > pots (5 gal. or larger) > > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 19:29:03 -0500 From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: [pbs] Amaryllid Pollen Trading To: Message-ID: <018901c6cc94$77e43b30$6501a8c0@Petunia> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hi Gang, The Amaryllid Pollen Trading Email List is now in operation. Hopefully, it will be a mostly sleepy list to alert folks when pollen is available. Or, on the flip side, it will be used to alter folks when someone is looking for pollen of a specific type. The list is not limited to Crinum although that was the original concept. Some have written asking for an expanded list to include rainlilies, Lycoris, Hymenocallis, and some other genera and I think that will work out OK. I suspect that Hippeastrum (while technically fitting into the concept) will not be a topic because there are (many) more, well established Hippeastrum lists. Following recommendations from PBS folks who have "lots of work" to do with lists, and suggestions from initial pollen-trading members, I have implemented membership moderation (I think I got the controls set correctly). Also, the URL is not listed in the Yahoo Groups; the goal is not to limit membership so much as to discourage instantaneous membership applications. Anyone who applies, and who follows general Netiquete, is welcome. Additionally, while the messages could be archived, I have voided that possibility; the main reason is to limit spamming robots. There is no goal of secrecy, per se, and if members vote wish (majority vote) to have the messages archived (with a password) I think that can be arranged. One other note: I don't think of the pollen-trading list as a bulb list. Members know (if they read the guidelines) that most questions can be directed to the PBS. The PBS URL is provided up-front and if questions are beyond immediate pollen trading, correpondents will be referred to the PBS. My hope is that folks in equatorial regions, or in the southern hemisphere, or in the northern hemisphere, will be able to share pollen. We have out-of-sync seasons and can benefit by sharing pollen during the year and storing it correctly for later use. With time, perhaps I can prepare an article about pollen mailing, and pollen storage--but the PBS archives are rich with information about those topics. If you want to join please email me or visit the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/crinumpollen/ Cordially, Joe jshaw@opuntids.com ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 19:46:09 -0500 From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <44F63151.5000008@bulbmeister.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Grasshoppers are my biggest pest problem in the nursery, including potted bulbs and Lycoris flower stalks in the beds. I've seen the black ones in east Texas when I was a boy, but these are the regular ol' light brown/yellow ones. I've just ordered a bunch of semaspore to see if I can get some control. I expect it to be difficult, though, since I can't really contain the "site". It did help me one year in my winter house, though, so I am hopeful. A scientist like myself is intrigued by rain lilies in pots, because you can experiment with forcing bloom, not relying on nature to give you the occasional bloom. It has been several years since I took a scientific approach. I think I let the listserv for IBS know about it at the time, but I can't find the info. If I recall correctly, a good rule of thumb was to water regularly for 6-8 (4-6?) weeks during the growing season, then completely withhold water for 3-4? weeks. The next time I started watering again, I got a bunch of blooms in a day or two. These were greenhouse conditions, so nature could not interrupt the "scientific" process. ;) The described method, or something akin to it would give me more bloom periods in the season than just keeping them watered regularly. It seems that regular watering encourages bulb division (increase), but more flowering can mean more seed (increase). So, if you want to get a bunch more bulbs of the exact same thing, bring on the water hose, but if you want to play *od and make babies of different colors and shapes, practice some "science" with your rain lilies. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Joe Shaw wrote: > They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering > schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, > which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 17:50:17 -0700 From: Dan Tyson Subject: Re: [pbs] Rainlilies To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed Tony Avent and Yucca Do carry a large variety of them. I'd highly recommend them. Thanks, Lee. I will definitely contact them. Dan ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2006 23:01:04 -0400 From: "Eugene Zielinski" Subject: Re: [pbs] Spanish iris To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Message-ID: <410-220068431314160@earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII First, apologies for the delay in this response. I've been busy with work (and other things, but mostly work) and didn't have time for more than a one line response to any e mail. Jim McKenney asked "Where in Pennsylvania were you growing those English irises?". (I've included part of Jim's message below.) A little bit of background: On 7/20/06, as part of a message on bulbous iris, Jim wrote, "No one, to my knowledge, has successfully grown English irises here in the middle Atlantic states." Part of my response (7/22/06) was "Is Pennsylvania a mid-Atlantic state?" (According to wikipedia, it is -- along with New York, New Jersey, Maryland, and Delaware. Virginia and West Virginia are sometimes included.) My English irises grew (and probably still grow) in central Pennsylvania, not too far from State College and Penn State University. This is the Ridge and Valley region. (To be specific, they grew in the last valley before the Allegheny Plateau, which dominates the western part of the state and gives Pennsylvania its coal mining reputation.) Temperatures here are cooler than those of the mid-Atlantic region in the southeast corner of the state. Winters are zone 5 or 6, and summer temperatures do get over 90 F, but only for a few days in August. The area also has a definite spring, with generally cool temperatures into mid June. I think this was a big factor in the iris' performance. My yard was fairly moist (Lobelia siphilitica was almost a weed...), which may have helped. Still, I'm surprised at how well the irises performed. Incidentally, the irises I grew were the common blue variety. I did plant some other varieties later, and they did nearly as well. Gene Eugene Zielinski Augusta, Georgia USA > [Original Message] > From: Jim McKenney > Date: 7/23/06 12:19:08 PM > Subject: RE: [pbs] Spanish iris > > Eugene Zielenski, in commenting on the culture of English irises, asked " Is > Pennsylvania a mid-Atlantic state? " > > In response, I would say depending on the context, maybe. > > It seems that English irises have been grown successfully in New York State > and northward (I'm basing that partially on the account in Molly Price's The > Iris Book). > > So to go back to Eugene's question, I would say that western Pennsylvania is > not for purposes of this discussion a middle Atlantic state. I had in mind > the piedmont and coastal plain areas, the areas of the major, old cities in > this area. For horticultural purposes, the conditions in the physiographic > provinces west of the piedmont are significantly different. The zones of > similar conditions in this part of the country run roughly southwest to > northeast. As you move westward, especially as you cross physiographic > provinces, conditions change rapidly. > > So my question for Eugene is "Where in Pennsylvania were you growing those > English irises?" > > And I'll bet it was not on the coastal plain or piedmont. If it was, please > tell us more. > > > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 07:12:12 -0700 (PDT) From: James Frelichowski Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies, pots, grasshoppers To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <20060831141212.64070.qmail@web33901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I got my amaryllids in extra greenhouse space and it is under repair so all kinds of 6+ leggers venture inside and sample my amaryllids (usually few insects will eat amaryllids). I just killed a giant yellowish one this morning which looked like it had some shedded exoskeleton on it. James Frelichowski College station, TX Joe Shaw wrote: Mine are all in pots, which several people such as Alberto Castillo, will tell you isn't the best way to grow them unless you grow them in very large pots (5 gal. or larger) ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, More good advice about growing rainlilies. I guess I'll have to move my plants up to larger containers. Maybe this winter will provide the time. I do like the rainlilies, and I now I think I've been mistreating them. They don't have many problems, even with my small pots and stingy watering schedule. However, they are devoured by the Eastern Lubber Grasshopper, which are truly beautiful but alien-looking insects. The instars (juveniles are black and red, or black and yellow). The adults are a psychadelic mix of yellow, red, orange, black, tan, and sometimes a hint of green. Both adults and juveniles devour amaryllids. Rainlilies are mowed to the ground unless I keep control of the grasshoppers. The insects actually remove all foliage and flower buds, and rainliles seem as if they are "gone." Once I put out insecticide the rainliles come back. Eastern Lubber Grasshoppers like Crinum, Hippeastrum, Hymenocallis, and all sorts of related plants. I think they survive from year-to-year in my yard because I won't put insecticides in the low areas of my yard, the places where runoff can enter nearby ponds. LINK: Photo, Close-up of Adult and Juvenile http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber1.jpg LINK: Photo, Feeding Frenzy, Juveniles Devouring Hymenocallis near the Trinkity River in Texas http://www.opuntiads.com/pests/lubber2.jpg They will eat leaves, flowers, seed pods, seeds, and perhaps slow- moving people. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX The weather has cooled a bit and maybe the fall-blooming bulbs will begin their shows. A few oxblood lilies have come up but the heat fried the blooms last week. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out. ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php End of pbs Digest, Vol 43, Issue 32 *********************************** ________________________________________________________________________ Try Juno Platinum for Free! Then, only $9.95/month! Unlimited Internet Access with 1GB of Email Storage. Visit http://www.juno.com/value to sign up today! From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Fri Sep 1 11:43:34 2006 Message-Id: <44F8552F.A15E5FA1@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Clivias Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 08:43:43 -0700 Have a great trip! Cheers, John E. Bryan Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > Hello, I am off to sunny south africa tomorrow (I havent had a holiday for 15 years!) so if i don't get your emails, i will in 2 weeks. Just to say, anyone want me to source seeds for them? Or plants? Put your orders in tomorrow and a paypal deposit, and an idea of what you wish to spend. > cheers > Clivia addict > angela offer > angelasgarden@bigpond.com - asap > orders have to be in by tomorrow, because apparently my email goes to sleep for two weeks > Cheers > Angela in Australia > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From arnold@nj.rr.com Fri Sep 1 11:52:58 2006 Message-Id: From: arnold@nj.rr.com Subject: Lycoris Pests & Diseases Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 11:52:57 -0400 For the record my steady and reliable L. chinensis has failed to appear so far this year. Arnold From coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au Fri Sep 1 16:57:21 2006 Message-Id: <003401c6ce09$3358c140$1f0da4cb@geoff2abba5c65> From: "Coffee Camp" Subject: Is it Love? Worsleya Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 06:57:11 +1000 Very much enjoyed your posting Ron and like Matt in Massachusetts I want to know more about this Holy Grail of geophytes as it was not an orphaned worselya left on my doorstep with the paper but a fostered one handed me by a stranger. I had read a little about Worsleya and seen their prices and moved on dismissing them as too expensive & troublesome. Time passed until a day last Summer when I received a phone call as a result of my website from a botanist who lived locally and wanted to visit my nursery after discussing my plants. He arrived as arranged with another man who was not expected. On arrival, this other chap presented me with 2 pot plants from a number of plants he had just purchased from local nurseries, including several well advanced Wollemi pines. He was a botanist/horticulturist or whatnot but senior as the first fellow always deferred to him and he was up from Sydney I believe. The first pot he gave me he said the grower believed was a Crinum Ellen Basanquet & was labelled as such with a question mark. He asked if I had or if I collect hybrids. I told him I only collect species plants. He said the other was a species plant, a worsleya. 'Worsleya?' said I. 'Yes' said he rather nonchalantly. He could see that I was impressed, however, the pot was unlabelled and I later began to doubt its authenticity without evidence. The gifts I believe were because he knew I had Crinum scabrum & after carefully inquiring into my specimens' provenance, asked if he may have one. The so-called worsleya was in that very light nursery mix & wasn't doing anything where I'd put it. I repotted it into a much larger pot with my usual bulb mix & put it in the greenhouse over winter. It looks healthy & happy but hasn't grown much or done much at all since acquiring it, whereas the C. Ellen Basanquet? has had several pups already. Does a Worsleya have any particular features, other than the flower, which help to identify it would anyone know? Or will I just have to wait until & if it flowers to be sure it is in fact the real McCoy? Cheers, Geoff in sub-tropical NSW, AU 2nd day of Spring Clivias, Dietes, Tulbaghias & Albuca spiralis in bloom & attacks on my A. belladonna leaves already by Spodoptera picta On 1/9/06, "Ronald Redding" wrote: > Dear All, > > Today I have discovered a flower spike on a plant that is quite significant > to me. I have many others like it and have produced flowers from them. This > was the first of its kind that I ever obtained. I still remember the time I > eventually tracked down where I could obtain one and was amazed at the > asking price, I was able to convince the supplier I could grow this plant as > I had done an enormous amount of research and even though he only had a tiny > plant left he still could get a large amount of money for it he never sold > them so small. My (looking back now) tiny little plant arrived and ooh how I > loved it. I cared for it, sheltered it and brought it inside if it got too > cold. I tried everything to convince it to grow big and strong, gave it the > best food money could buy and even danced if front of it naked under the > light of a full moon. > > Year after year it still did not respond I did not realise it was me being > cultivated and that it was helping me become better and teaching me many > valuable lessons. After much trial and error the last two years have proven > that I am finally getting many things right it has flourished and as if I > have finally learned enough and now as a sign of respect a flower spike. The > man that I bought the plant from was Errol Cosh who provided me with much > guidance and encouragement who I am happy to say I have met and who has not > only shared his knowledge but stories, food and drink. The plant is a > worsleya and is truly something that you can fall in love with. > > > > > > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes > Ron Redding > Hervey Bay > Australia From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 17:05:53 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Is it Love? Worsleya Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 21:05:52 +0000 Hi Geoff: Worsleya leaves are quite unique among bulbs in that they look like a cock's tail feathers. Not fountain like as in Hemerocallis, Phormium, Agapanthus, etc., which are all drooping. Worsleya leaves are like a strap that has been bent along his horizontal axis. There are many images of the foliage in the web. This is apparent in quite small plants. Typically it is a slow growing plant and there are very many records of flowers obtained after many years of cultivation. They do better in big trays rather than pots as in Nature the root system wanders about in a relatively shallow layer of soil on top of quite smooth rocks. These roots can be very long and extensive. Best Alberto Ezeiza Botanical Garden Argentina > From: coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 06:57:11 +1000> Subject: [pbs] Is it Love? Worsleya> > Very much enjoyed your posting Ron and like Matt in Massachusetts I want to know more about this Holy Grail of geophytes as it was not an orphaned worselya left on my doorstep with the paper but a fostered one handed me by a stranger.> > I had read a little about Worsleya and seen their prices and moved on dismissing them as too expensive & troublesome.> > Time passed until a day last Summer when I received a phone call as a result of my website from a botanist who lived locally and wanted to visit my nursery after discussing my plants.> > He arrived as arranged with another man who was not expected. On arrival, this other chap presented me with 2 pot plants from a number of plants he had just purchased from local nurseries, including several well advanced Wollemi pines. He was a botanist/horticulturist or whatnot but senior as the first fellow always deferred to him and he was up from Sydney I believe.> > The first pot he gave me he said the grower believed was a Crinum Ellen Basanquet & was labelled as such with a question mark. He asked if I had or if I collect hybrids. I told him I only collect species plants. He said the other was a species plant, a worsleya. 'Worsleya?' said I. 'Yes' said he rather nonchalantly. He could see that I was impressed, however, the pot was unlabelled and I later began to doubt its authenticity without evidence.> > The gifts I believe were because he knew I had Crinum scabrum & after carefully inquiring into my specimens' provenance, asked if he may have one.> > The so-called worsleya was in that very light nursery mix & wasn't doing anything where I'd put it. I repotted it into a much larger pot with my usual bulb mix & put it in the greenhouse over winter. It looks healthy & happy but hasn't grown much or done much at all since acquiring it, whereas the C. Ellen Basanquet? has had several pups already.> > Does a Worsleya have any particular features, other than the flower, which help to identify it would anyone know? Or will I just have to wait until & if it flowers to be sure it is in fact the real McCoy?> > Cheers,> > Geoff in sub-tropical NSW, AU> 2nd day of Spring Clivias, Dietes, Tulbaghias & Albuca spiralis in bloom & attacks on my A. belladonna leaves already by Spodoptera picta> > > On 1/9/06, "Ronald Redding" wrote:> > > Dear All,> > > > Today I have discovered a flower spike on a plant that is quite significant> > to me. I have many others like it and have produced flowers from them. This> > was the first of its kind that I ever obtained. I still remember the time I> > eventually tracked down where I could obtain one and was amazed at the> > asking price, I was able to convince the supplier I could grow this plant as> > I had done an enormous amount of research and even though he only had a tiny> > plant left he still could get a large amount of money for it he never sold> > them so small. My (looking back now) tiny little plant arrived and ooh how I> > loved it. I cared for it, sheltered it and brought it inside if it got too> > cold. I tried everything to convince it to grow big and strong, gave it the> > best food money could buy and even danced if front of it naked under the> > light of a full moon.> > > > Year after year it still did not respond I did not realise it was me being> > cultivated and that it was helping me become better and teaching me many> > valuable lessons. After much trial and error the last two years have proven> > that I am finally getting many things right it has flourished and as if I> > have finally learned enough and now as a sign of respect a flower spike. The> > man that I bought the plant from was Errol Cosh who provided me with much> > guidance and encouragement who I am happy to say I have met and who has not> > only shared his knowledge but stories, food and drink. The plant is a> > worsleya and is truly something that you can fall in love with.> > > > > > > > > > > > > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes> > Ron Redding> > Hervey Bay> > Australia> > _______________________________________________> pbs mailing list> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu mundo en línea reunido: noticias, deportes, el tiempo, y mucho más. http://www.live.com/getstarted From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Fri Sep 1 17:48:54 2006 Message-Id: <17352863.1157147334125.JavaMail.root@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Mark Mazer Subject: Is it Love? Worsleya Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 17:48:53 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Hi Folks: Worsleya seeds and bulbs have recently been made available worldwide through the hard work of a bunch of Australian's active in the Worsleya group on Yahoo groups. I participated in the seed distribution early this year and all 9 seeds (3 clones) germinated. Eight survive, one died during the recent move from Connecticut to North Carolina. Best, Mark >I had read a little about Worsleya and seen their prices and moved on dismissing them as too expensive & troublesome. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Fri Sep 1 18:04:45 2006 Message-Id: <009701c6ce12$a3cd9410$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Off Topic (Hymenocallis bulbs) Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 17:04:45 -0500 Hi Gang, Last year I agreed to send a couple blooming-size H. liriosme to a gentleman in the West (Arizona I think). He was interested in hybridizing. I have just now found the pot that I put aside, the bulbs have been growing and the tag says "for sending to breeder in AZ." I guess I dug them and then put them in a temporary pot--who can remember all the digging and potting. So, if you are out there, and if you remember, just drop me a line. Cordially, Joe jshaw@opuntiads.com From ron_redding@hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 18:56:46 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ronald Redding" Subject: Worsleya Is it Love? Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 08:56:44 +1000 Bill, Mathew, Geoff, Alberto et al, Thank you very much for the remarks however I would like to state that growing and flowering worsleya's is now pretty easy for me after some hard lessons. I have killed a couple along the way however I now have a pretty good system and it all starts with the the three golden rules of growing them they are MEDIUM, GROWING MIX and MEDIUM. Mathew there are many legal bulbs in this country as there are several growers here that have been cultivating the plants for almost thirty years. I have spoken with and visited everyone that has come to my attention over the last eight years. I also will say that Alberto's remark that they are slow growing was once true however I am proving this to be so false that is almost a joke. I have photo's of some of my plants (and yes there are thirty two of them there however I have many more in my collection) you can see them on the Australian Bulb Association web site picture gallery. I plant to take another photo in December and let me assure you that this little group has just launced into spring and will take off. The Cosh clone that I mentioned is in the big pot sitting almost on the ground on the far right. I am currently putting my cultivation techniques into some form that I may share, sorry however this is going to take a little while however let me assure you that once you get it right this is a very special and easy care plant. Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia >From: MATTHEW MATTUS >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Is it Love? >Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 08:17:14 -0400 > >Wow, Ron... Congratulations! > >Many of us have traveled down a similar path, only to find disaster along >the way, as promised. Some may say that you've achieved one of the holy >grails of horticulture, others may disagree. But regardless, you are >fortunate to have obtained a legal bulb, and an achievement none the less >to >both your skills as a gardener and of your patience! > _________________________________________________________________ The future of MSN Messenger is here: download now http://ninemsn.com.au/livemessenger/ From ron_redding@hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 19:14:59 2006 Message-Id: From: "Ronald Redding" Subject: Is it Love? Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 09:14:53 +1000 Hi Ron, nice story. You must be getting too much sun in Hervey Bay. regards, Bill Richardson, Bill, I wanted to write something that would make you laugh out loud, as your response did and yes I probably did get a little too much sun yesterday. Kind Regards and Best Wishes Ron Redding Hervey Bay Australia _________________________________________________________________ Search for local singles online @ Lavalife http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Flavalife9%2Eninemsn%2Ecom%2Eau%2Fclickthru%2Fclickthru%2Eact%3Fid%3Dninemsn%26context%3Dan99%26locale%3Den%5FAU%26a%3D23198&_t=751140432&_r=emailtaglines_search_aug06&_m=EXT From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Sep 1 19:20:29 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Worsleya Is it Love? Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 23:20:28 +0000 Hi Ron: Interesting that my advice makes you laugh. Yet, Worsleya is like so many other amaryllids a slow growing plant, even in its native Brazil and here, the neighboring country. You are very fortunate in having your plants grow fast. All the best Alberto > From: ron_redding@hotmail.com> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 08:56:44 +1000> Subject: Re: [pbs] Worsleya Is it Love?> > Bill, Mathew, Geoff, Alberto et al,> > Thank you very much for the remarks however I would like to state that > growing and flowering worsleya's is now pretty easy for me after some hard > lessons. I have killed a couple along the way however I now have a pretty > good system and it all starts with the the three golden rules of growing > them they are MEDIUM, GROWING MIX and MEDIUM.> > Mathew there are many legal bulbs in this country as there are several > growers here that have been cultivating the plants for almost thirty years. > I have spoken with and visited everyone that has come to my attention over > the last eight years.> > I also will say that Alberto's remark that they are slow growing was once > true however I am proving this to be so false that is almost a joke. I have > photo's of some of my plants (and yes there are thirty two of them there > however I have many more in my collection) you can see them on the > Australian Bulb Association web site picture gallery. I plant to take > another photo in December and let me assure you that this little group has > just launced into spring and will take off. The Cosh clone that I mentioned > is in the big pot sitting almost on the ground on the far right.> > I am currently putting my cultivation techniques into some form that I may > share, sorry however this is going to take a little while however let me > assure you that once you get it right this is a very special and easy care > plant.> > > > Kind Regards and Best Wishes> Ron Redding> Hervey Bay> Australia> > > > > > >From: MATTHEW MATTUS > >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > >To: Pacific Bulb Society > >Subject: Re: [pbs] Is it Love?> >Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 08:17:14 -0400> >> >Wow, Ron... Congratulations!> >> >Many of us have traveled down a similar path, only to find disaster along> >the way, as promised. Some may say that you've achieved one of the holy> >grails of horticulture, others may disagree. But regardless, you are> >fortunate to have obtained a legal bulb, and an achievement none the less > >to> >both your skills as a gardener and of your patience!> >> > _________________________________________________________________> The future of MSN Messenger is here: download now > http://ninemsn.com.au/livemessenger/> > _______________________________________________> pbs mailing list> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu propia página de inicio, personalizada para ver rápidamente todo lo que te interesa en un mismo sitio. http://www.live.com/getstarted From jshaw@opuntiads.com Fri Sep 1 19:25:10 2006 Message-Id: <013301c6ce1d$dfc39c70$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: more pollen collecting, pass if you find it boring Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 18:25:10 -0500 Hi Gang, This has all been hashed out before, and I apologize if this is repitious for some. I have prepared a list of considerations for collecting and storing pollen. I didn't concentrate on a genus, or even on bulbs. My hope is that some will read the list and find errors, or obvious improvements. Or, perhaps some will be able to report that certain genera need certain treatments. So, write to me, or the PBS, and help me fill in details or fix erroneus statements. See the list below. Cordially, Joe ++++++++++++++++++++++ 1. Collect anthers when the pollen is shed. The best sign is that the pollen dust will stick to your finger. Don't collect before the anthers open and naturally shed pollen. 2. Often, pollen shedding will be the same day as "full" flower opening, but depending upon species it can be: a. the evening before, b. the evening of flower opening, or; c. the day after flower opening. 3. I just collect anthers by hand because I mostly work with large flowers. Sometimes you might need forceps or you might need to half-way brutalize a flower to get a pollen (depending upon species). 4. No matter fingers or forceps, it is important to wash your hands and/or the forceps between different types of flowers. 5. I drop the anthers in a small paper envelope. Sometimes a small seed envelope, or a coin envelope, or sometimes the corner of a regular-size letter envelope. I avoid wax or plastic envelopes; my goal is to help the pollen to dry. 6. I let the anthers (pollen) sit at room temperature (in an air-conditioned environment, or (if winter) in a heated environment. I don't leave the pollen outside, or on a porch, or in a garage, etc. 7. About 2 days after I collect the last pollen from an inflorescence, I put it in a Tupperware-type container with a drying agent. The simplest drying agent is silica gel beads from a hobby shop. I like the color-changing beads so I can determine if they are saturated with water (blue is good, pink is "full of water'). The idea is to pull water out from the pollen. Many pollen types (surely not all) store better if kept at low humidity. 8. Apparently many pollens can survive for months, or even a year, at room temperature, especially if kept in a plastic container over a drying agent. Of course, some pollens can survive a while without drying-that is why we can mail them to each other. 9. Once placed over a drying agent I put the pollen envelopes in the freezer, just a regular modern frost-free freezer. When I open the Tupperware box I make sure to quickly remove what I need and reseal the box. Later, if there is extra pollen, I put it back in the box after a day or two at room temperature. 10. Some folks don't bother with drying agents. Marcelle Sheppard just gathers Crinum pollen, and leaves it at room temperature for a day or two, and then freezes it in a plastic box (airtight is better). She reports that such approach will store pollen for at least a year. 11. If you want a low-tech solution, you could gather pollen and keep it indoors for weeks, often such an approach will work for many plants. In fact, some pollens will last for months. Factors that reduce viability include high humidity and vast temperature swings. So, aim for dry and stable (and not too hot). 12. If you get pollen in a swap (in the mail) it is important to get it indoors in a climate controlled room if you cannot use it immediately on flowers. You can store it by any of the methods above. From ixia@dcsi.net.au Fri Sep 1 20:31:59 2006 Message-Id: <001801c6ce27$35ad8b10$0201a8c0@Ixia> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Is it Love? Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 10:31:56 +1000 Hi Ron, I just loved your story, how you wrote it and the enthusiasm and excitement you put into it, of course, with a touch of humour. It is always exciting when we, as enthusiasts, (nay, fanatics!) see some results from our years of hard work and frustrations come to fruition. Just as I have done with Ixia, collecting for all these years. I still get excited when something flowers after all these years. And it's always nice when you can prove the "so-called" experts wrong when you discover new growing regimes and techniques that work for you. I'm looking forward to you publishing your results which I 'm sure will go a long way to helping others grow this wonderful species. And, of course, I'm a little jealous (toungue-in-cheek) of all that beautiful sunshine you get in Hervey Bay. Can you send some of it through to Gippsland for me? All the best regards, Bill Richardson, Ixia King Spring - 5c. to 19C. at present West Gippsland, Victoria, Australia ixia@dcsi.net.au Ixia Website: www.angelfire.com/ri/ixia "Almost any garden, if you see it at just the right moment, can be confused with Paradise" Henry Mitchell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronald Redding" To: Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2006 9:14 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Is it Love? From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Sep 1 05:33:05 2006 Message-Id: <004a01c6ce2f$80c47020$dd22b57c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Clivias Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2006 18:20:15 -0700 Hello, I am off to sunny south africa tomorrow (I havent had a holiday for 15 years!) so if i don't get your emails, i will in 2 weeks. Just to say, anyone want me to source seeds for them? Or plants? Put your orders in tomorrow and a paypal deposit, and an idea of what you wish to spend. cheers Clivia addict angela offer angelasgarden@bigpond.com - asap orders have to be in by tomorrow, because apparently my email goes to sleep for two weeks Cheers Angela in Australia From lewisia@hei.net Sat Sep 2 11:18:11 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060902080848.023253c0@hei.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: ... pollen Date: Sat, 02 Sep 2006 08:12:39 -0700 Dear Joe, Great idea about the pollen swapping. You get the good citizen award for enhancing PBS. Kind regards, Joyce Miller Gresham, Oregon, USA Zone USDA 7 From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 2 12:32:43 2006 Message-Id: <005101c6cead$6b1dffb0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Narcissus in zone 9a/9b Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 11:32:41 -0500 Hi Gang, A while back I wrote about Narcissus x 'Falconet', and I was pleased it was doing well here in zone 9a. In the past 3 years we've only had a few nights below 25 F so I guess we've been zone 9a/9b. 'Falconet' is still putting on a good show in early March. David K. wrote a wonderful note about other tazetta-type Narcissus hybrids. I haven't tried them but they are still on my list of plants to try someday. Recently, Bill the Bulb Barron sent me a generous portion of 'Golden Dawn', another hybrid with a genealogy similar to that of 'Falconet'. I hope 'Golden Dawn' is tolerant of conditions here. One interesting thing is that 'Falconet' has a reputation for increasing rapidly, almost annoyingly so. For me, it has stayed steady and has not increased much. Perhaps zone 9a/9b influences increase. Perhaps lack of increase is due to the need for mowing, even in winter. I try to protect the foliage as long as possible but the winter grasses start to make miniature hayfields and eventually I have to mow the whole lawn-bulb foliage and all. 'Hilstar' and 'Geranium' have not done well, they both seem to be disappearing. I am going to try more Narcissus types and would enjoy suggestions from others in warm-winter climates. 'February Gold' has done OK-I think it is holding in there and blooms a litter earlier than 'Falconet'. But, 'February Gold' only puts on a modest show if there are a few warm days in a row, a little mid-winter hot spell and the blooms just fry. LINK: PBS Archives Note from David K. (great reading) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist/old.php/2005-April/020956.html LINK: Bill the Bulb Barron of Carmel Valley http://www.billthebulbbaron.com/ Cordially, Joe Still potting up Crinum seedlings from too-small containers into bigger but not-big-enough containers. They sure like a lot of root space. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 2 14:04:09 2006 Message-Id: <00be01c6ceba$32681a40$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Scoria, Aloe, and Crinum Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 13:04:10 -0500 Hi Gang, I grow a lot of bulbs in black nursery containers, a practice that helps in some ways but which also has drawbacks. Recently, I decided to calculate the volume of some "5-gallon" containers. I guess I should have known, but even the largest-appearing ones are just under 4 gallons in volume, and only if you will fill them with soil to the very top. Other so-called 5-gallon containers are about 3 gallons in volume, about 650-710 cubic inches. That puts them in the 11-15 liter range. When I did the math for a typical 1-gallon can it came in at 0.7 gallons (about 2.7 liters). I did some calculations on a 25-gallon container and it seems to be about 25 gallons in volume. I have a few Crinum in such containers and they seem happy. Crinum in smaller containers also seem happy, but I think they achieve their best growth in 15 gallon containers, or larger. Still, tough plants that they are, seedlings will mature and come to blooming size in 3-4 years if they are potted up in "4-gallon" containers, but they need to be potted up by the time they are a year old. My old practice was to hold half a dozen seedlings in a 1-gallon container (or sometimes 2-gallons) and forget about them till their 3rd year, and then I'd pot them up or out, or trade them. They definitely grow better with more space early on. The biggest problem with containers here is that the soil will warm up to the overnight low temperatures (sometimes 70-75 F, ca. 22 C). The soil can stay warm for weeks in July and August. This is at least 10-15 degrees F warmer than the soil is 15 inches below ground level. On warm days, if even a little sun hits the side of a black container, the soil can warm up to 80-85 F on that side of the container. I don't think the roots like all that heat. For me, Crinum grow their best when planted in the ground and heavily mulched. The 6 inches of mulch shades the soil, helps retain water, impedes weeds, and probably has other wonderful benefits. In such situations, with 6-8 hours of sun per day, the Crinum have a long growing season. In contrast, some other plants I grow (Aloe species or Opuntia species) get planted in lava rock (scoria). Then, I dribble in some soil that is mostly coarse sand and perlite, and perhaps 10-15% humus. It can take Aloe or Opuntia (and other cacti) a year or more to get used to the scoria-with a bit of soil, but once established they thrive. The benefit from using so much scoria (and the inherent air pockets) is that my Aloe and cacti survive winters here. Of course the desert plants always want to rot because of they year-round rain and humidity. Therefore, in addition to the scoria-based soil, I treat them with myclobutanil (formulated for lawns, the mealy grains) and they seem happy enough. Fertilizer can run right through a scoria-based potting medium, but I like they way my plants grow-not too much unnatural "lush" growth. Insects are the greatest problem for Crinum and Opuntia (not Aloe yet). Scale and mealy bugs adore Opuntia here near Houston, TX, whereas grasshoppers dine on amaryllids. Cordially, Joe From J.Joschko@gmx.de Sat Sep 2 15:35:06 2006 Message-Id: From: "J. Joschko" Subject: Hippeastrum seed offer Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 21:35:29 +0200 Hi all , I'm glad to offer some ( few ) seeds of a not named Hippeastrum from Bolivia ( Chaco ) collect from a friend of mine in last year. One of the plants has flowered before some weeks and I have it sucsessfull pollinated - now I have some seeds ( some portions of 10 seeds ). Please write me privat if anybody is interested for a portion of seeds. Here is my adress : J.Joschko@gmx.de With best wishes from Germany Hans From mymimi43@aol.com Sat Sep 2 16:11:21 2006 Message-Id: From: mymimi43@aol.com Subject: Hippeastrum seed offer Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 16:11:17 EDT Hi Hans, I want some Please. Pam aka Mimi from gw From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 2 21:32:05 2006 Message-Id: <001201c6cef8$c30da360$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Another "not really a bulb", but a geophyte Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2006 20:32:02 -0500 Hi Gang, Many Eucalyptus species, and some related plants, make a lignotuber. I'm not sure what a lignotuber is anatomically, but I think it is some sort of stem-perhaps like a potato storage organ. Lignoubers allow Eucalyptus species (and Corymbia species, which used to be classified as Eucalyptus) to regrow after fire or other damage. The lignotuber is a tough storage organ, and because it is underground can allow some species to survive 1 or 2 zones of colder temperatures than they might prefer. I've had good luck with Eucalyptus citriodora (Corymbia citriodora), the lemon scented plant. In the wild the tree can reach 60-100 ft-tall. In my garden growth is more modest. However, the benefit of a lignotuber is that (at least some) eucalypts can behave as dieback perennials in areas that are much too cold to allow tall tree growth. Many mallees, some trees, and some odds-and-ends species will perform well in climates that are too cold to allow a "real" tree or shrub to develop. The plants freeze back each winter and sprout stems that can reach 6-8 feet-tall each growing season. The benefit is especially nice with plants that make beautiful foliage or which have strong and acceptable scents. I do enjoy E. citriodora, a sprig can perfume a room with a pleasant lemony scent. One other Eucalyptus that I grow is E. viridis. This plant does well here and, so far, has not suffered from root diseases that plague other eucalypts I have tried to grow. E. viridis is a modest appearing plant, but has wonderfully fragrant leaves that provide oils that are used in soaps and cough drops, etc. The main thing is that, for me, I treat these plants as bulbous-growing things. If/when temperatures threaten to go very low, I mulch the plants heavily, and let to tops freeze. In the spring, with warmth and some water (warmth is key), the plants return and make a garden into a better place, pleasing the nose as well as the eye. NOTE: I've tried various eucalypts here in the greater Houston, TX area. Many survive the climate and thrive for 2-3 years only to succumb to root diseases. I've had some luck growing the plants from seeds in sterile soils (microwave baked) and letting them get large before planting out-then I give them the best drainage I possibly can. TWO WINNERS (SO FAR): 1. Eucalyptus citriodora 2. E. viridis I hope to try more mallee types in the future (shrubby or with many stems from the base, not trees but 10-30 ft-tall). LINK: Australia Plants, source of many seeds and some seedlings http://www.australiaplants.com/ NOTE: Eucalypts can grow 4-8 feet in a year, even from seed. LINK: The Hardy Euclalyptus Page http://www.angelfire.com/bc/eucalyptus/ LINK: Eucalyptus camaldulensis, a lignotuber seems optional in this species http://www.publish.csiro.au/paper/BT9830283.htm From lewisia@hei.net Sun Sep 3 11:40:02 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060903083814.0232ee18@hei.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: Narcissus Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2006 08:39:49 -0700 Dear Dave, James Waddick recommended you as a source for Narcissis after I told him I had relocated to my home state Oregon. Do you have a list that can be e mailed. If yes, send away. Sincerely, Joyce Miller, Gresham, OR From dkramb@badbear.com Sun Sep 3 13:29:52 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060903132852.01ff3bb8@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: re-manfreda Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2006 13:30:14 -0400 My M. virginica is sending up a new flower spike. I'm sure it's going to frost before the thing can bloom. Meanwhile, the original flower spike is 7+ feet tall and has a few nice, fat seed pods. Dennis in Cincinnati From coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au Sun Sep 3 16:48:49 2006 Message-Id: <003801c6cf9a$570fe310$6c0da4cb@geoff2abba5c65> From: "Coffee Camp" Subject: Is it Love? Worsleya Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 06:48:40 +1000 Many thanks to Alberto & Susan B. for helping to remove the question mark over my Worsleya. It is indeed the real McCoy. I simply had trouble believing that a stranger whom I met once only would just hand me such a prized plant for naught. Oh dear, now I shall probably start to worry about it & coddle it & look out for full moons & ask Ron for his dance steps.... Geoff in The Northern Rivers of NSW, AU USDA Zone 10 equiv. On Fri, 1 Sep 2006 21:05:52 +0000 Alberto Castillo wrote: Hi Geoff: Worsleya leaves are quite unique among bulbs in that they look like a cock's tail feathers. Not fountain like as in Hemerocallis, Phormium, Agapanthus, etc., which are all drooping. Worsleya leaves are like a strap that has been bent along his horizontal axis. There are many images of the foliage in the web. This is apparent in quite small plants. Typically it is a slow growing plant and there are very many records of flowers obtained after many years of cultivation. They do better in big trays rather than pots as in Nature the root system wanders about in a relatively shallow layer of soil on top of quite smooth rocks. These roots can be very long and extensive. Best Alberto Ezeiza Botanical Garden Argentina From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sun Sep 3 17:28:42 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c6cf9f$e9e05260$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Hippeastrum seed offer Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2006 17:28:28 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "J. Joschko" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, September 02, 2006 3:35 PM Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum seed offer > Hi all , > > I'm glad to offer some ( few ) seeds of a not named Hippeastrum from Bolivia > ( Chaco ) collect from a friend of mine in last year. > One of the plants has flowered before some weeks and I have it sucsessfull > pollinated - now I have some seeds ( some portions of 10 seeds ). > Please write me privat if anybody is interested for a portion of seeds. > Here is my adress : > J.Joschko@gmx.de > With best wishes from Germany > Hans Is this a trade or an auction? Do you expect monetary compensation for postage and handling? Please clarify. Thank-you, Robert. From Antennaria@aol.com Sun Sep 3 23:37:36 2006 Message-Id: <3a9.7bf53e7.322cf97c@aol.com> From: Antennaria@aol.com Subject: Codonopsis Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2006 23:37:32 EDT writes: >Thanks for your message, you might be >correct but Codonopsis lanceolata according >to the RHS is spotted and striped violet within >and flowers in the autumn. While C. convolvulacea, >hardy to zone 5, is azure to violet blue without >stripes. How high is your plant? Thanks for the >leads to the websites. Cheers John I've heard back from Paul Kneebone who created the previously website on Codonopsis, and he agrees it looks most like C. lanceolata. FYI, while the original photos I posted showed flowers that had a fairly uniform zone of purplish color inside the corolla (the upper half of the corolla) and purple spots (lower half of the corolla), the most recent flowers show some level of purplish striping on the inside of the flowers. My plant is vining to about 30" tall so far, with many stems turning back down and twining downwards... there are numerous flowers and buds. Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 ============================================== >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western american alpines, iris, plants of all types! From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 4 11:08:39 2006 Message-Id: <002001c6d033$fbb85930$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 11:08:29 -0400 My pot of A. belladonna has received some rain and is putting up foliage, not blooms. :-( Although kep perfectly dry, it never lost all the foliage; 2 or 3 very short green leaves remained on each bulb, regardless of size. I am continuing to water regularly if nature doesn't provide. The bulbs that had been sitting dry, out of soil (and lost all roots and foliage) got a bit of rain and began to produce roots. I put them in the ground and am waiting to see what they do next. The Lycoris radiata in the yard haven't yet bloomed, but I saw some arround town blooming yesterday. Robert. Z 7b. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Sep 4 12:55:59 2006 Message-Id: <000b01c6d042$febac5f0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 12:55:57 -0400 I've been following this discussion with interest. Amaryllis belladonna has been attempted on and off in eastern North America for the last two hundred years, and I'm not aware of any long term successes. Amaryllis belladonna was one of the first plants I obtained for my "cape bulb border" forty years ago when I was a teenager. As luck would have it, it bloomed once - and that was enough to convince me what a wonderful plant it is. Pot culture does not seem to be the answer. Digging the bulbs for the summer seems to be a mistake. I'm beginning to suspect that Amaryllis belladonna and Nerine sarniensis have similar requirements: those of us here in the east fail repeatedly with both of these. And I'm beginning to believe that cold winters - above freezing for the most part but still cold - are essential for these while they are in full leaf. If that's true, then cold frame culture might work here, and I'll be trying that with Nerine sarniensis this winter. I've seen the suggestion that Nerine sarniensis benefits from relatively cool summer temperatures; that might be true, but it certainly isn't necessary for Amaryllis belladonna - unless southern California summers are a lot cooler than I imagine. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where even with a full moon I'm not ready to dance naked for my Amaryllis, but I might sing Caccini's song "Amarilli mia bella" and see what happens. From franklinruiz1@yahoo.com Mon Sep 4 15:30:46 2006 Message-Id: <20060904193046.40489.qmail@web50004.mail.yahoo.com> From: Franklin Ruiz Subject: (no subject) Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 12:30:46 -0700 (PDT) I am a new member as of Sep 4, 2006 and would like to introduce myself. My name is Franklin. Love gardening and special Tropicals. Hope I can learn lots of new things with the help of you all. Thanks, Franklin. --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. From franklinruiz1@yahoo.com Mon Sep 4 15:44:06 2006 Message-Id: <20060904194406.93735.qmail@web50014.mail.yahoo.com> From: Franklin Ruiz Subject: Hymenocallis imperialis 'Big Fatty' Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 12:44:05 -0700 (PDT) Hello Corey, I am a brand new member as of today. I started browsing and found your posting of Oct 28, 2004. "Does anyone know if this Mexican species is evergreen or deciduous? I just received a bulb in the mail and it appears to be alive and healthy but completely dormant. Will it need any special treatment?" I would love to know from what company you bought the bulb from. I had one a friend gave me and it died. I also am looking for Spiders Tropical Giant and Sister of Tropical Giant I will really appreciate your help. Thanks, Franklin Ruiz --------------------------------- All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster. From paul@pleione9.wanadoo.co.uk Mon Sep 4 16:22:58 2006 Message-Id: From: "Paul Cumbleton" Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 21:22:56 +0100 I'd like to ask for some comments about cultivating the American Fritillaria, especially pot cultivation under glass. Reviewing our collections during re-potting here at Wisley it becomes apparent that we grow the Europeaen Frits much more successfully than the Americans. If members of the list would share their experiences perhaps I could come to some understanding of why this may be. So I'd like to go back to basics and ask for information about their cultivatory requirements. Particularly, comments on the following would be most welcome: Watering - approximately when should you start in the fall? (We usually give their first drink around the start of October, depending on temperatures at the time) Dormancy - do you keep totally dry or slightly moist? Hardiness - are all truly hardy or should any be kept frost-free? Compost - are any fussy about pH, and do any require something other than the usual types of free-draining bulb composts? Light - do you grow in full sun or do any require a bit of shade? Feeding - comments??? (more a bag of worms than the other topics!!) Any other hints and tips? A good discussion on this would be most welcome Paul Cumbleton Now moved to Middlesex, UK, real close to Heathrow Airport Zone 8 From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 4 16:57:29 2006 Message-Id: <004d01c6d064$baee6350$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 16:57:00 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim McKenney" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 12:55 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. > I've been following this discussion with interest. Amaryllis belladonna has > been attempted on and off in eastern North America for the last two hundred > years, and I'm not aware of any long term successes. One bulb catalogue puts it this way: "...if you live in the midwest or southeast, Amarcrinum may be a more successful choice." That's business diplomacy ;-). > Pot culture does not seem to be the answer. I potted it up because of differing reports of hardiness. Thought I could move it around when it got very cold, protecting it from the harshest freezes. Then, when it seemed to want to grow, I took it indoors, and of course it continued to produce foliage. I just didn't want to lose it totally. I'm putting the ones I have potted into the ground soon. Let the chips fall as they will. >Digging the bulbs for the summer > seems to be a mistake. > Jim McKenney I dug mine up in the spring thinking they were Agapanthus. I was going to put the "Agapanthus" in better soil and potted them temporarily till I could get the site prepared. (Yeah, I sould have done it the other way 'round....) Well, they proceeded to go dormant, I guess because of the root disturbance, so I unpotted them to prevent rot and left them out, planning to wait as long as possible to plant in soil. Some anecdotal info seems to indicate that if they are planted very late, they will not produce foliage till late winter-early spring. I thought that would help prevent frost damage to the foliage. (Or something like that.) Part of my confusion was that they never lost all the foliage in summer.There was usually a short rosette that would wane a bit but never disappear entirely. I thought my "Agapanthus" was just sulking from being too dry and hot in clay soil. Robert. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Sep 4 20:02:57 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060904165002.00c312b0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2006 16:52:44 -0700 Paul Cumbleton asked about cultivating the American >Fritillaria, especially pot cultivation under glass. I grow all the American species and quite a few of the Eurasian ones (not including those of the Far East, most of which I have been unable to obtain from seed). The literature and seed exchange of the AGS Fritillaria Group suggest to me that the American species don't set seed as well in the UK as here, and in discussion with a British grower, I suggested that low light levels during their winter growth period might be at least partly to blame. The British, brilliant as they are in growing almost anything, can't do much about their latitude. Paul asked specifically about: Watering - approximately when should you start in the fall? (We usually give >their first drink around the start of October, depending on temperatures at >the time) That's about when I start watering mine, but I match the watering to the onset of fall rains on the Pacific Coast, so it may be more "natural" for them. >Dormancy - do you keep totally dry or slightly moist? I keep them totally dry but they aren't desiccated because the pots are large and are plunged to the rim in a medium that sits on the ground in bulb frames. When I lift the pots in late July or August, they are faintly cool toward the bottom. >Hardiness - are all truly hardy or should any be kept frost-free? I think you could consider them "truly hardy" in England, where winters are warmer than mine. I have not lost any in the frames when the air temperature went down to about 20 F, but overhead protection makes a big difference. And many of them are intolerant of excessive winter wet -- the inland and alpine ones experience a dry winter under snow. Fritillaria striata has had some winter damage here inside the frame, causing it to produce deformed flowering stems that year, but the bulbs were not harmed. F. liliacea, the other candidate for tenderness, seems unstoppable. >Compost - are any fussy about pH, and do any require something other than >the usual types of free-draining bulb composts? No, I don't think any of them are fussy in this regard, and it's quite false that some require heavy clay (adobe). The pH of my mix is probably about 6. >Light - do you grow in full sun or do any require a bit of shade? I grow them all in full sun (or as much as is available in Oregon in the winter!). >Feeding - comments??? (more a bag of worms than the other topics!!) Like all my other bulbs, the frits get one liquid feed ("root and bloom" formula) in fall and three in winter through mid-spring. I don't add bone meal because it attracts animals. From haweha@hotmail.com Mon Sep 4 20:34:51 2006 Message-Id: From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 00:34:49 +0000 Greetings from Duesseldorf, Germany In the globular grenhouse of the botanical garden these belladonna lilies are blooming so splendidly - as every season - (since some years) and they are slowly but steadily multiplying. Amaryllis belladonna grows best when planted in the ground, and left undisturbed. Well it is an amaryllid I like to assign as "desert amaryllis" thus indicating that it can tolerate rather extreme weather conditions. As regards to "extreme" there seems to exist ONLY one more or less relevant condition in order to induce the final scape elongation within the bulb, that is namely a certain minimum temperature during the summer "reposal" in the magnitude of 30°C - but I even doubt that. William the Bulb Baron has already found out that total dryness not to be crucial for a successfull scape "preparation"of the bulb. As regards the speculation about winter coldness I like to add now that these wonderfull Naked Ladies I mentioned above are growing at a minimum winter temperature of above 55°F (13°Celsius): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/haweha/2830.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/haweha/2827.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/haweha/2828.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v215/haweha/2823.jpg My understanding of this great amaryllid is that it is accustomed to tolerate extreme conditions, might these comprise of coldness, heat or extreme drought (provided the root systemn remains grossly complete) But that does not mean that applying these are the stone of wisdom in order to induce the formation of blooms. Tropical Amaryllids are in general versatile, and they reward a good husbandry, that includes maintaining them at moderate temperatures. And a container volumen which is not too spare. Particularly Amaryllis belladonna will not perform so very well at all in pot confinement ;-) It is a rather tiny plant; I possess ome bulb from Madeira (250 grams) and as far as I kow 400 g will seldom be exceeded. This leads to the temptation to prison them into containers which are too small for them and make them suffer. Usually a mother bulb willl waste its energy while diligently dividing there, delivering numerous deplorably small offsets. Hans-Werner From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Sep 4 21:34:20 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6d08b$687de330$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 21:34:19 -0400 The timing of Paul's query is prefect: I've been checking my American Fritillaria this week in anticipation of the growing season ahead. I would like to keep the ball rolling on this topic and in particular get growers on the east coast of North America to give some input. I wish I lived around the corner from Jane McGary so I could drop in now and then to check things out and see first hand what she is doing - or at least experience the weather in that part of the country. It's been surprisingly hard for me to understand the requirements of many west coast plants. Between Jane McGary's comments and those of Ian Young in his SRGC Bulb Log Diary, I've learned a lot about frit culture during the last two years. But I need to learn a lot more. Here's some background to put my comments into perspective. I'm a newbie with respect to growing the North American Fritillaria. Decades ago as a teenager I obtained bulbs of some of the North American species, but nothing good came of them. At that time I was utterly clueless about their requirements. Four or five years ago I obtained bulbs of F. glauca and F. pudica from the John Scheepers company. Each of these went on to grow and bloom beautifully. They were planted in a raised bed outside and given no other special consideration. After blooming and dying down, the plants of F. glauca were never seen again. The plants of F. pudica put up a bit of foliage for a year or two more, but they too eventually disappeared. Obviously, I didn't know what I was doing. But these plants were so beautiful and interesting that I resolved to learn more and try again. One thing I did was to examine very carefully the photographs in Rix & Phillips: from looking at these, I got the impression that many of the North American species grew in what, by eastern North American standards, were seemingly very dry conditions. I know now that part of that impression is due to the fact that on much of the west coast the rain falls in the autumn and winter, and by the time some of the frits bloom things have already started to dry out for the summer. All of my current bulbs come from Jane McGary; the first of these were obtained in late summer 2005, so I've had exactly one year's experience with these. The sorts I received last year are Fritillaria biflora, F. biflora "grayana", F. eastwoodiae, F. liliacea, F. pudica, F. purdyi, F. recurva, and F. striata. Here's what I've seen so far during this first year: Watering: All of these were grown in pots kept outside in a makeshift frame. The bulbs were received in late August, but I didn't pot the bulbs up until late October, and they were watered once then to get them started; they were not watered again much if at all until I saw growth above ground. Once there was growth above ground, I watered them whenever I was watering the other plants with which they grew. When they came into bloom, I took that as a signal to stop watering. One reason these were not watered until I saw growth above ground is this: among the species I tried many years ago was Fritillaria recurva. In retrospect, I now realize that the bulbs I received back then were not blooming size. But although these bulbs amounted to nothing, I did learn something about them: after I planted them, I checked them continually and was perplexed to find that they showed no signs of growth throughout the autumn. The bulbs were evidently sound and seemingly healthy, but there was no sign of growth - not even an attempt to produce a few roots. From this I concluded that they are programmed to begin growth later in the year. The word "they" in the preceding sentence is a clue to my limited understanding of this group. Frits grow from the Mexican border right up to the Bearing Straits: surely they all don't have the same requirements. But from my limited east coast perspective, it's hard not to generalize. And at my stage of understanding, everything I'm doing is based on generalizations. Dormancy: Rightly or wrongly, I assumed they would not survive our summers in a moist medium and thus kept them dry. In fact, I was so concerned about their being dry enough that I brought all of the pots inside for the summer. I have been examining the bulbs this week and now realize that I've kept them too dry. Some show shriveling. Next year I'll keep them outside, in the shade, under cover, but fully exposed to our typically very humid local summer atmosphere. Hardiness: last winter was one of the mildest on record here. The pots were in a hastily constructed cold frame placed near a house wall with a SW exposure. The cold frame was covered nightly with a double ply plastic tarp whenever overnight temperatures were predicted to drop much below freezing. We did not experience much cold last winter: there were no periods where the temperature remained below freezing day and night for weeks at a time (this sometimes happens here). Even those plants which produced foliage in mid winter never showed any evidence of cold damage. I mentioned above that the plants were in a cold frame; that's a bit misleading. This "cold frame" had no lights (glass cover): whatever cold protection it provided came from its site (near a house wall) and the nightly cover by the double ply tarp. Compost: I was guessing here and used a mixture of the local loam and perlite, roughly 50/50. I did not sterilize the local loam. Light: the plants had bright light, sunlight on most days, from about 11 A.M. on. Feeding: a slow release fertilizer was used in the medium when it was prepared. Once the plants were in growth, a 10-10-10 fertilizer was sometimes dissolved (to the extent that it would dissolve) in the water used to water the plants. The results? Well, I still have a lot to learn, but where the results were good, I am sufficiently encouraged to keep trying. The material as received varied in size: some were blooming sized bulbs, some were little guys requiring another season or two to bloom. There was one immediate loss: Fritillaria striata turned to mush before I even planted it (it was received in seemingly good condition in late August; I didn't pot up its congeners until late October; "my bad"). F. purdyi grew well but did not bloom. I examined the bulb at the end of the growing season and it was very encouraging. I examined it again a few weeks later and most of it was gone: two little pieces remain, one of which has something which suggests a sprout forming at the edge of the bit of bulb left. Fritillaria eastwoodiae bloomed and formed a nice fat bulb covered with rice grains. When I checked it yesterday, it seemed to be slightly dried out: I soaked it overnight - we'll see what happens. Fritillaria biflora "grayana" bloomed and formed a nice bulb. None of the others bloomed, but most did grow well and form nice, slightly bigger bulbs. The exception was Fritillaria pudica: it formed smaller bulbs, which is what the top growth produced had led me to expect. From this one year's experience I think I have to finesse the summer drying business. This year I simply stopped watering the plants when they came into bloom. The medium in the pots seemed to keep some moisture in the bottom two or three inches all summer - even when the pots were brought inside. That was a big surprise, and I blame the near loss of F. purdyi on that residual moisture. Last winter was a gift: I was utterly unprepared for a bad winter, and I got off easy. If this winter proves to be a typical winter, I may have a very different report next year, especially with those species which begin to grow in mid- to late winter. I'm inclined to say that these North American Fritillaria are not garden plants in our climate, although long ago Mrs Wilder reported some success with certain species as garden plants over a period of several years. That's more than I expect with our high summer soil temperatures combined with summer moisture. That they are a challenge in our climate is a given: but isn't that what makes it interesting? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Fritillaria culture can be like opening that little box and throwing the dice. ----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Paul Cumbleton Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 4:23 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] American Fritillaria I'd like to ask for some comments about cultivating the American Fritillaria, especially pot cultivation under glass. Reviewing our collections during re-potting here at Wisley it becomes apparent that we grow the Europeaen Frits much more successfully than the Americans. If members of the list would share their experiences perhaps I could come to some understanding of why this may be. So I'd like to go back to basics and ask for information about their cultivatory requirements. Particularly, comments on the following would be most welcome: Watering - approximately when should you start in the fall? (We usually give their first drink around the start of October, depending on temperatures at the time) Dormancy - do you keep totally dry or slightly moist? Hardiness - are all truly hardy or should any be kept frost-free? Compost - are any fussy about pH, and do any require something other than the usual types of free-draining bulb composts? Light - do you grow in full sun or do any require a bit of shade? Feeding - comments??? (more a bag of worms than the other topics!!) Any other hints and tips? A good discussion on this would be most welcome Paul Cumbleton Now moved to Middlesex, UK, real close to Heathrow Airport Zone 8 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Sep 4 22:30:19 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6d093$3a9ee6a0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 22:30:18 -0400 Thanks for your comments, Hans-Werner. The photos were beautiful. I'll now remove "cold winters" from the prescription for Amaryllis belladonna. Yet knowing that the plants you cite have minimum winter temperatures of 13 degrees C only deepens my curiosity. There are many places in eastern North America which can provide winter temperatures above 13 degrees C and provide summer temperatures over 30 degrees C easily. Yet Amaryllis belladonna does not thrive. There must be more to the puzzle. Jim McKenney From susanann@sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 4 23:08:30 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Crinum Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:08:09 -0700 At 1:04 PM -0500 9/2/06, Joe Shaw wrote: >For me, Crinum grow their best when planted in the ground and heavily >mulched. The 6 inches of mulch shades the soil, helps retain water, impedes >weeds, and probably has other wonderful benefits. In such situations, with >6-8 hours of sun per day, the Crinum have a long growing season. **I got some Crinum from someone on PBS, I've lost track. It's growing under a huge fir tree, in total shade on a slope, in totally bone dry soil and has been blooming for 6 weeks or so. I've not watered that area even once and we've had no rain since April. Poor baby. Small miracle. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 4 23:20:48 2006 Message-Id: <013001c6d09a$474f7b10$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 23:18:09 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" To: Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 8:34 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. >As regards to "extreme" there seems to exist ONLY one more or less relevant >condition in order to induce the final scape elongation within the bulb, >that is namely a certain minimum temperature during the summer "reposal" in >the magnitude of 30°C - but I even doubt that. Is there a certain length requirement for this "hot" rest? >William the Bulb Baron has already found out that total dryness not to be crucial for a successfull >scape "preparation"of the bulb. As regards the speculation about winter coldness I like to add now that these >wonderfull Naked Ladies I mentioned above are growing at a minimum winter temperature of above 55°F >(13°Celsius): >Hans-Werner You suggested in another post that 45F is a good temperature. So 45-5? F would work. What is the maximum temperature they respond to? Beautiful pictures of the blooms. I can only hope to see those in my own yard one day...... I will celebrate that day! Robert. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Mon Sep 4 23:20:50 2006 Message-Id: <013101c6d09a$485cf370$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 23:20:43 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim McKenney" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 10:30 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. > There must be more to the puzzle. > Jim McKenney "The answer is out there." ;-) Robert. From lizwat@earthlink.net Mon Sep 4 23:39:43 2006 Message-Id: <33277901.1157427582693.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From: Liz Waterman Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:39:42 -0700 (GMT-07:00) I haven't noticed anyone mentioning humidity. The hot humid environment of the east coast summer should make any Mediterranean plant miserable. It certainly has that effect on some people. Anything over 30% seems humid to me as a lifelong Californian My niece from Florida really suffers in dry the air here when she visits me. Liz -----Original Message----- >From: rdjenkins >Sent: Sep 4, 2006 8:20 PM >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jim McKenney" >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 10:30 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. > > >> There must be more to the puzzle. >> Jim McKenney > >"The answer is out there." ;-) > >Robert. > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From susanann@sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 4 23:56:35 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:56:21 -0700 At 8:39 PM -0700 9/4/06, Liz Waterman wrote: >I haven't noticed anyone mentioning humidity. The hot humid environment > of the east coast summer should make any Mediterranean plant miserable. > It certainly has that effect on some people. Anything over 30% seems humid > to me as a lifelong Californian >My niece from Florida really suffers in dry the air here when she visits me. >Liz **I'm in NorCal almost on the coast (we can see a peek). Humidity here runs 65 to 75% most of the time (sometimes higher in the summer) Average summer temps run in the 60's (15-18C) and winter temps in the 40's and 50's. (4.5 - 10C) We had some temps of 27F (- 2.7C) last winter, but usually we only get near 32F (0C) for a week or so. My A. belladonna get no water and they are planted in heavy clay soil. They bloom well. We see many old large clumps in town. Some people consider them common and weedy . It was the same when I lived on the Central Coast of CA (we could see the water there) except that we got only 10" of rain compared to 35+ " here. A. belladonna flourished. It only rains here from Nov to April. We've had nothing since April. And, I'm second generation Californian, never lived anywhere else. I don't like humidity either, but we have it. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From Roth@ukzn.ac.za Tue Sep 5 02:14:34 2006 Message-Id: From: "Rogan Roth" Subject: flowering Amaryllis belladonna Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 08:14:11 +0200 Dear frustrated Amaryllis growers, Here on the eastern seaboard of South Africa I have the same problems with flowering A. belladonna in pots, however I had a friend living in an area near Durban called Kloof which is almost sub-tropical in climate with warm winters and humid summers. He had a mass of A. belladonna growing fully exposed to the sun and weather in one of those shallowly conical fibre-crete planters about 1.5metre (4.5') in diameter and 500mm (1.5') deep. What always amazed me was how regularly and magnificently his plants used to flower! I have often wondered if extreme neglect (the treatment metered out to his plants) is not the answer - impoverished soil and crowded growing conditions in full sun. The only protection they probably need is from extreme cold and the dreaded amaryllis caterpillar. If I may waffle on a little longer, I have a sister-in-law living in the southern Cape province - the natural home of A. belladonna - who had devastating floods two years ago. Many of the bulbs on her farm were washed out by the flood waters only to be left high and dry with partially exposed roots and absolutely no protection from the elements. She cannot recall a time before when the amaryllis flowered as well and in such profusion as they did that year. Perhaps there's a lesson to be learnt here... Yours in gardening Rogan. (Glorious spring! Azalea and Clivia are reigning supreme in gardens at the moment with epiphytic Dendrobium nobilis adding a touch of lilac and cream. It's great to be alive and gardening!) -------------------------------------------------------------------- Please find our disclaimer at http://www.ukzn.ac.za/disclaimer -------------------------------------------------------------------- <<<>>> From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Tue Sep 5 07:09:39 2006 Message-Id: <44FD5AE9.2030604@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: (no subject) Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 06:09:29 -0500 Dear Franklin: Welcome to the Forum! Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Franklin Ruiz wrote: > I am a new member as of Sep 4, 2006 and would like to introduce myself. > My name is Franklin. Love gardening and special Tropicals. Hope I can learn lots of new things with the help of you all. Thanks, > Franklin. > > > --------------------------------- > Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From tony@plantdelights.com Tue Sep 5 07:56:03 2006 Message-Id: <44FD65D8.1030403@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 07:56:08 -0400 From haweha@hotmail.com Tue Sep 5 15:50:17 2006 Message-Id: From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 19:50:10 +0000 >From: "rdjenkins" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: "Pacific Bulb Society" >Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. >Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2006 23:18:09 -0400 > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" >To: >Sent: Monday, September 04, 2006 8:34 PM >Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. > > >You suggested in another post that 45F is a good temperature. So 45-5? F >would work. What is the maximum temperature they respond to? > >Beautiful pictures of the blooms. I can only hope to see those in my own >yard one day...... I will celebrate that day! > >Robert. > Greetings from Duesseldorf, Germany. Thank you all for your input "amaryllis belladonna" Hello Robert, thank you for your feedback and your kind reception of my photos. I am sure that you are referring to a message of an other "Hans". However, I would be interested in this posting; could you please send me the respective link from the pbs message listings / pbs archive By the way - it is 2 1/2 years ago that I rescued two pea sized seedling bulbs of A.belladonna i n this glasshouse, which had been dug up during maintenance works and lost on grit besides the the walkway. I planted these into Coco (and charcoal grains below as drainage layer) and - they behaved in the same way up to this spring, producing leaves during summer 2005. This spring however, believe it or not, the stronger one then began to lose its leaves, gradually, while the other continued growing, and even developed an apparent stem (as for example amarcrinum does) allthough clearly not being one as its leaf fan is not twisted. Actually the other one is generating one first new leaf, hesitantly, but indicating that the diversity in behaviour was not simply based on its demise.... *lol* May be that the individual A.belladonna clones are behaving differentially, too, and this might complicate the situation even more Hans-Werner From john@johnlonsdale.net Tue Sep 5 16:44:41 2006 Message-Id: <000301c6d12b$6f546a80$6601a8c0@XPS400> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: American Frits Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 16:39:47 -0400 I’ve been trying to grow these for a number of years, with increasing success, I think. Most of what follows pertains to pot culture, I succeeded with F. viridea, liliacea and a couple of affinis outside for 2 or 3 years but they dwindled and finally went away in a cold winter. On the contrary F. pudica is a stalwart in the garden. My first F. recurvas flowered in pots this spring from seed sown in 2001 and 2002 and were well worth the wait. A variety of F. affinis forms flowered also, and F. biflora. Without doubt the best commercial source of seeds is Ron Ratko, who has a great selection most years. I surface sow the seeds and find, if they are sown by mid- January they germinate rapidly and profusely and can get a reasonably long season under their belts. If I receive them later I tend to hold them until the following fall and sow and water them in September. Germination then is in similar proportions but in mid-winter, giving an even longer growing season. I leave seedlings in the pots untouched until after their 3rd season above ground, when they are repotted. Most have moved pretty deeply in the pots by this time and I repot at a similar depth. They definitely like the depth – at least ¾ of the way down the pot. Like the Rhinopetalum group, both seedlings and mature plants rise early (late December and January) and so need reasonable amounts of moisture through the winter, albeit with perfect drainage. They seem particularly thirsty in early spring and are very sensitive to even a little dryness at the root, especially as the late winter temperatures start to increase. If they flop a couple of times they decide that’s it for the year and go to sleep. As long as they are in active growth they get fed and watered, backing off only when the foliage shows signs of dormancy. They can get water for a while after flowering. They get no water from dormancy until mid-late September, usually around 4 months. They want to be dry but not hot and very dry – they will desiccate. I tried a new trick on them and other sensitive bulbs this year – in early July I covered the pots on the greenhouse benches with sheets of ½” Styrofoam insulation, just resting it on the labels. It worked a treat, allowing the pots to continue drying out but insulating them from extremes of heat in the shaded greenhouses. I’ll do this again next year. I grow them all in BioComp BC% with 50% sieved supercoarse perlite, in either 3 ½” or 4 ½” pots. It is a treat to see them coming through in mid-winter and the leaves can be incredibly attractive – F. ojaiensis for example has the most amazing brown mottled leaves until well into the season. The only real problem I’ve seen occasionally is an attack of botrytis on seedlings – it can progress quickly if not taken care of. I keep the greenhouses as ventilated as possible all the time, the times to watch out for are cold and damp days when it is too cold to open the vents. Last year I sprayed everything in the greenhouses, pots & structures, with ZeroTol and it seemed to reduce fungal problems to essentially none. I’ll do this again in a week or two when I finish the repot. Best, J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Tue Sep 5 17:24:45 2006 Message-Id: <007f01c6d131$b4075560$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 17:24:30 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hans-Werner Hammen" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2006 3:50 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna. >>You suggested in another post that 45F is a good temperature. So 45-5? F >>would work. What is the maximum temperature they respond to? > Hello Robert, > > thank you for your feedback and your kind reception of my photos. > I am sure that you are referring to a message of an other "Hans". > However, I would be interested in this posting; could you please send me the > respective link from the pbs message listings / pbs archive > Hans-Werner Sorry for the mistake. The post I was referring to was from Rodger Whitlock dated 8-16-2006, wherein he stated that winters in Victoria, British Columbia "hover around 42F (5-6 C)" (not 45F as I stated.) and A. belladonna blooms reliably. Is there anything you can add, Rodger? Robert. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue Sep 5 19:45:12 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060905163508.00c01370@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 16:46:29 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote, I wish I lived around the corner from Jane McGary so I could drop in now and >then to check things out and see first hand what she is doing - or at least >experience the weather in that part of the country. It's been surprisingly >hard for me to understand the requirements of many west coast plants. The local terms for the four seasons are as follows: almost winter, winter, still raining, and construction. Jim's experience with Dutch-grown F. glauca and F. pudica is, unfortunately, par for the course. I have heard that many stocks of F. glauca coming from the Netherlands are virus-infected. I was fortunate enough to get the strain "Goldilocks" from its introducer, Wim de Goede, when it was still healthy, and I still have it -- in the bulb frame. F. glauca, a serpentine endemic, is extremely moisture-sensitive. F. pudica grows mostly in areas where winters are not too wet and summers are very dry; it does not succeed outdoors for me, even though it is native less than an hour's drive inland from here. I disagree with Jim's watering regimen (" I didn't pot the bulbs up until >late October, and they were watered once then to get them started; they were >not watered again much if at all until I saw growth above ground. Once there >was growth above ground, I watered them whenever I was watering the other >plants with which they grew. When they came into bloom, I took that as a >signal to stop watering."). The roots grow long before the leaves appear on most species. I think that once they're watered in fall, they should be kept moderately moist through their growth period. I do not stop watering them (actually I rarely need to water in winter because ground water rises into the frame plunge medium) when they flower, because I think it will affect seed set badly. I stop watering them when the foliage loses its glossy appearance and becomes dull on the surface. I would not soak any frit bulb overnight to rehydrate it. One method I use is to pack bulbs in barely moist vermiculite (I hate perlite but John Lonsdale uses it with great success) in a plastic bag, kept cool. Overnight soaking is, however, effective with purchased Anemone and Ranunculus tubers. I didn't see Jim stating that his pots were plunged to the rim in his frame but assume they are; this is very important for maintaining health in bulbs when they are dried off in summer. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Tue Sep 5 21:07:12 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6d150$c5875f50$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 21:07:05 -0400 Thanks for the response, Jane. You were right to criticize my watering regimen. I knew that I was being very conservative in watering, but I had nothing on which to base an estimate. I also made sure the bulbs were planted in a very porous medium. Bad experiences in the past left me with the attitude that planting frits in our climate was a bit like planting ice cubes: once the temperatures begin to rise, they're gone. That's the source of my extremely conservative approach to watering. As I gain experience, I'll loosen up. I was especially cautious about watering at the end of the growing season: my hunch is that it's very important under our conditions to be sure the bulbs dry out thoroughly at the end of their growth cycle, and that won't happen here without help from the gardener. Next year I'll keep a close eye on the foliage condition and water as long as the foliage looks lively. What I don't know yet is how they will respond to moisture later in the summer but after the bulbs have had a chance to dry out thoroughly. My experience with Fritillaria purdyi suggests that any water is bad during their period of dormancy. I've been checking my Fritillaria bulbs all day and in general what I see makes me very happy. Some, such as F. raddeana, are already producing roots. Most others show no signs of activity yet, but the bulbs look good - they are in many cases bigger than the ones planted. So that conservative approach to watering evidently did not cost me much if anything in bulb size. You sent me some single scale bulbs of Fritillaria liliacea which have grown very well: this year's bulbs are bigger and several already show multiple scales. The one large Fritillaria liliacea you sent, which did not bloom, is bigger and better, too. F. biflora and F. biflora "grayana" both did very well, too: it was a real pleasure to turn out the pot and see the bright creamy white, oddly shaped scales with their "big heads". I discovered this evening that the bulbs of Fritillaria liliacea had been stored outside during the summer - I thought I had brought all of the American frits inside, but I missed these. As mentioned above, they look fine. One of the things I'm uncertain about is the heat tolerance of the American frits. I assume that the southern ones will be very heat tolerant; I'm uncertain about the ones from areas well north of San Francisco. You asked if the pots had been plunged. No; the pots (they were not proper pots, they were cut-down plastic soft drink bottles) were stood on the surface of the ground and a makeshift frame placed around them; the function of the frame was as much to keep the tightly packed "bottle pots" from tipping over as to provide protection from inclement weather. As soon as the foliage died down, the pots were moved under cover - outside at first, then inside for most. I think you will have to twist my arm a bit more to get me to try plunge beds for the American frits under our conditions. My guess is that any American frits which spend one of our summers in a plunge bed will rot. Now that I've had the chance to examine them, it's obvious that I kept my frits a bit too dry this time. But I think I was on the dry side of OK, so to speak, for most of them. The Eurasian frits without exception look good. Several did not increase in size much, others plumped up very nicely. But in every case here the bulbs are bright, clean and seemingly ready to go. So I'm off to a good start, with a nice set of home-grown bulbs to boost my confidence and a nice suite of newly received bulbs to pique my interest. This year I'll take your advice and start watering earlier and keep it up throughout the fall until really bad weather comes. But I don't think my frits have a plunge bed in their future. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where temperatures have dropped and we've had plenty of slow, steady rain for days: everything should be rehydrated by now. Acis autumnalis and A. valentina are in bloom now. From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Tue Sep 5 12:11:32 2006 Message-Id: <44FE4B87.3CC3C05C@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Codonopsis Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2006 21:16:07 -0700 Thanks Mark for the additional information, proves that I am human, but the earlier pictures threw me! Cheers, John. Antennaria@aol.com wrote: > > writes: > > >Thanks for your message, you might be > >correct but Codonopsis lanceolata according > >to the RHS is spotted and striped violet within > >and flowers in the autumn. While C. convolvulacea, > >hardy to zone 5, is azure to violet blue without > >stripes. How high is your plant? Thanks for the > >leads to the websites. Cheers John > > I've heard back from Paul Kneebone who created the previously website on > Codonopsis, and he agrees it looks most like C. lanceolata. FYI, while the > original photos I posted showed flowers that had a fairly uniform zone of purplish > color inside the corolla (the upper half of the corolla) and purple spots > (lower half of the corolla), the most recent flowers show some level of purplish > striping on the inside of the flowers. > > My plant is vining to about 30" tall so far, with many stems turning back > down and twining downwards... there are numerous flowers and buds. > > Mark McDonough Pepperell, Massachusetts, United States > antennaria@aol.com "New England" USDA Zone 5 > ============================================== > >> web site under construction - http://www.PlantBuzz.com << > alliums, bulbs, penstemons, hardy hibiscus, western > american alpines, iris, plants of all types! > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From totototo@telus.net Wed Sep 6 01:15:47 2006 Message-Id: <20060906051546.B3BFSSKWBN@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Tue, 5 Sep 2006 22:15:24 -0700 On 4 Sep 06, at 21:22, Paul Cumbleton wrote: > ... cultivating the American Fritillaria, especially pot > cultivation under glass... comments on the following would be > most welcome: > > Watering - approximately when should you start in the fall? (We > usually give their first drink around the start of October, depending > on temperatures at the time) Dormancy - do you keep totally dry or > slightly moist? Hardiness - are all truly hardy or should any be kept > frost-free? Compost - are any fussy about pH, and do any require > something other than the usual types of free-draining bulb composts? > Light - do you grow in full sun or do any require a bit of shade? > Feeding - comments??? (more a bag of worms than the other topics!!) > > Any other hints and tips? > > A good discussion on this would be most welcome I can't offer you a reply based on much success, but let me mention the natural growing conditions of the three species native to British Columbia: F. camschatensis: this is a moisture lover. I have seen it growing in a site that floods during winter high water, under a canopy primarily of Acer macrophyllum, Symphoricarpos (iirc), and various conifers. For pot cultivation, I'd say the pot should sit in a shallow saucer of water and be assiduously protected from solar overheating. Soil probably fairly acidic, but not peaty -- a nice clayish alluvium. Definitely not "free draining"! I suspect the soil is fairly fertile, being bottomland. F. affinis: a summer drought lover. I've seen it growing in shallow soil on a grassy rock eyot at the (saltwater) shoreline of Becher Bay, BC. The site is very dry in from June well into September. Morning fogs often occur after the beginning of August, but significant rainfall may be non-existent until mid-October and really heavy rainfall often doesn't take place until December. The soil is so shallow and the site so humid, being adjacent to saltwater, that morning dews may (n.b. *may*) gradually raise the soil moisture level in late summer. But I would guess that it comes into active growth more in response to the gradual cooling of the soil that occurs after mid-July as the days shorten and the sun drops in the sky. Soil probably acidic and of low fertility, all soluble nutrients being leached away by heavy winter rains. In other sites, I've noticed that it shies away from brilliantly sunny locations, prefering dry summer shade under deciduous canopy. F. pudica: this is native to the Okanagan area of British Columbia: a very hot, very dry area where all herbaceous vegetation is burnt to a crisp by the sun in summer. I have the impression that it prefers a fairly alkaline soil, but I can't quote my source. I have never succeeded in keeping it alive for more than a year or two. You mention "free draining" soil, which I take to mean a fairly friable mix. The two species I know in the wild both grow in a soil that I would call, for lack of a better word, "tight" and I think you will find that this is the case with many other fritillaries native to the Pacific Slope. Hope this helps. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Sep 6 09:25:03 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Fools Rush In Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 08:24:09 -0500 Dear All esp Jane, Jim Mc and Roger; I know I am hexing myself in saying ANYTHING on a topic I remain both ignorant of and totally confounded by.. American Frits. Actually Frits period. A couple of years ago I got a few bulbs of F. pudica from Jane and naively planted them outside where a couple European Frits have done well. So far it has persisted and bloomed here. I think this is because I have accidentally filled Roger's suggested environment: " a very hot, very dry area where all herbaceous vegetation is burnt to a crisp by the sun in summer. I have the impression that it prefers a fairly alkaline soil" My soil is mostly heavy clay except in summer when it bake to 'concrete' I claim no skill at all, but luck and coincidence. BULBS!! Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From john@johnlonsdale.net Wed Sep 6 09:30:04 2006 Message-Id: <009001c6d1b8$903f4110$6601a8c0@XPS400> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Fools Rush In Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 09:30:02 -0400 Frit pudica here is in a similar situation albeit without the clay. It is in a raised bed in very gritty loamy compost with south exposure. The bed gets minimal supplementary summer water as it is on the fringe of the sprinkler zone that keeps part of the bottom of the woods from drying excessively if we have a real drought. I moved some bulbs to an organic based bed and they were gone within the year. J. John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Sep 6 11:40:40 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris and Rain - part 2 Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 08:34:55 -0500 Dear All- A report: On Aug 17 I reported how a long drought was ended by a big rain and the start of the main Lycoris season, (although the season started July 19 with a few L. sanguinea). Another rain brought out a few more stalks, but I estimate bloom was about 1/4 to 1/3 of the usual. Although the main bloom season (L. squamigera, chinensis, longituba, sprengeri, incarnata and their various hybrids) has almost ended. Another 7 inches of rain brought out the later L. caldwellii, that is just at peak and still very lovely. The last to bloom have not yet shown (L. radiata, L.houdyshelii and a few misc.) Discounting the month early L. sanguinea, I have had a month of major bloom and will extend this another few weeks with later appearances. So much for the rumors of a short bloom season, but it takes a good mix to show off this long. Can Colchicum be far behind? Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From YOURCH@nortel.com Wed Sep 6 09:58:53 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010DDD6813@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: Hedychium 'Luna Moth' Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 09:58:45 -0400 Hi all, I added a photograph of a Hedychium hybrid named 'Luna Moth' to the wiki. This Hedychium gets a top rating from me because the stems are sturdy and short, about 3 feet (1m), the foliage is attractive, and the flowers are large, beautiful, and very fragrant. I did not expect that it would be hardy for me here in central North Carolina (USDA Zone 7b), but it has been thriving for several years in my garden in a partially shaded spot with moist soil. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hedychium Enjoy, Jay From YOURCH@nortel.com Wed Sep 6 10:40:06 2006 Message-Id: <45409CEDA4EFB7428420872E126CFB010DDD6990@zrtphxm2.corp.nortel.com> From: "James Yourch" Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 10:40:02 -0400 Hi all, We recently had a discussion about how some rainlilies (especially Z. candida and kin) enjoy moist soils, even wet feet. Here is an article about going one step further, growing rainlilies in your pond! Regards, Jay http://www.pondkeeper.com/ArticlePDF/2002-07AquaticPlantCommentary.pdf From irisman@ameritech.net Wed Sep 6 12:28:02 2006 Message-Id: <001f01c6d1d1$5a3a0640$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Lycoris sprengeri Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:27:31 -0500 Does anyone know if L. sprengeri is self-fertile? From irisman@ameritech.net Wed Sep 6 12:38:20 2006 Message-Id: <002901c6d1d2$cac763c0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:37:49 -0500 For Hans and others finding this bulb tricky. When I was a kid in Berkeley, Calilfornia, this was (and still is) a common plant, thriving on neglect in clay soil, increasing and blooming every year. Temperature maxima and minima there in the Bay Area over the last 60 years are about 26° F and 99° with freezing temperatures rarely continuing for more than one night, and maxima for not more than 2-3 days at a time. The soil can bake hard as a rock and crack wide open in the summer. Bulbs are often partly out of the ground--as much as a third of the length of the bulb. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Sep 6 13:03:41 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6d1d6$66281ff0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris sprengeri Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 13:03:38 -0400 Adam, I've gotten good seed set from plants which were probably (although I'm not certain) all pieces of one original plant. And yes, the seed was viable. Give it a try. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Iris dichotoma has been blooming freely for over a month and Bernardia japonica (aka Scilla japonica) is already over for the year. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed Sep 6 13:20:55 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060906101636.00c0a220@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: American Fritillaria Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 10:21:06 -0700 Rodger wrote, F. pudica: this is native to the Okanagan area of British Columbia: a >very hot, very dry area where all herbaceous vegetation is burnt to a >crisp by the sun in summer. I have the impression that it prefers a >fairly alkaline soil, but I can't quote my source. I have never >succeeded in keeping it alive for more than a year or two. Fritillaria pudica also (and I think more commonly) grows in acidic soils. It flourishes in my bulb frames, but few people in this area manage to keep it going in the open garden, however close to us it is native. I think it needs a drier winter. In nature, its habitat is slightly moist in fall, variably moist (often frozen) in winter, quite moist in spring, and very dry, as Rodger says, in summer. The plants usually grow on fairly steep slopes and banks in rocky soil. Olsynium douglasii and Erythronium grandiflorum are frequent companions in the Columbia Gorge, where F. pudica can be seen in flower in late March and April. I believe the Dutch stocks are grown much like tulips, which enjoy a similar annual cycle. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Sep 6 14:06:23 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris sprengeri Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 12:50:22 -0500 >Does anyone know if L. sprengeri is self-fertile? Yes. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From totototo@telus.net Wed Sep 6 14:21:38 2006 Message-Id: <20060906182135.BEB6TC6TXF@priv-edmwaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:21:14 -0700 On 5 Sep 06, at 17:24, rdjenkins wrote: > ...The post I was referring to was from Rodger > Whitlock dated 8-16-2006, wherein he stated that winters in Victoria, > British Columbia "hover around 42F (5-6 C)" (not 45F as I stated.) and > A. belladonna blooms reliably. > > Is there anything you can add, Rodger? That's air temperature as noted on my north-facing front porch. Under normal circumstances, the winter air temperature is usually close to 42F day and night, barring spells of mild warm weather arriving from the south ("pineapple express") or very cold air pouring out from the interior of the continent ("arctic outflow"). The thermometer is within the boundary layer of the house, so this figure may a tad higher than out in the open garden. My A.b. are planted up next to the house on the east side. It's a moderately shady location thanks to an enormous balsam poplar to the southeast on an adjoining property, plus other shrubs south & east. My foundations are not insulated. A clump of Iris unguicularis close by performs only modestly. So my comments can be amplified: 1. Being close to the house, my A.b. probably experience higher winter soil temperatures than they would out in the wilds of the garden, rarely below freezing even during arctic cold spells. 2. Full sun doesn't seem to be essential. 3. Drainage is *very* good, and a wide eave some 12' above reduces the amount of rainfall reaching the bulbs. IOW, they are sited so they experience conditions not in full conformity with the usual climate here: drier and warmer in winter, at the very least. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Wed Sep 6 14:39:18 2006 Message-Id: <20060906183917.2911.qmail@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Lycoris sprengeri Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 11:39:17 -0700 (PDT) Really my sprengeri have never set seed the past three years. I will check this weekend and see if any seeds are forming. Chinensis and longituba never fail to set seed for me though. And then last year I got one see off of radiata which always blooms after the others. Aaron Floden Stilwell, KS --- James Waddick wrote: > > Yes. Jim W. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From arnold@nj.rr.com Wed Sep 6 15:49:03 2006 Message-Id: <44FF2541.9020904@nj.rr.com> From: arnold trachtenberg Subject: Lycoris and Rain - part 2 Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 15:45:05 -0400 C. tenorii is up here in NJ. Arnold From Blee811@aol.com Wed Sep 6 15:46:12 2006 Message-Id: <4c2.82c62b0.32307f7d@aol.com> From: Blee811@aol.com Subject: Lycoris and Rain - part 2 Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 15:46:05 EDT In a message dated 9/6/2006 11:41:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jwaddick@kc.rr.com writes: Can Colchicum be far behind? First one already blooming here in SW Ohio, Jim. Bill Lee From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Sep 6 17:54:09 2006 Message-Id: <000101c6d1fe$fa509040$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Scadoxus multiflorus seed Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 17:54:06 -0400 A plant of Scadoxus multiflorus has set seed here this year. The fruits were green last week, but today I noticed that they have turned orange. Should I collect them now or wait for them to fall from the infructescence? Is it possible to store them without decreasing the viability of the seeds? Or should they be sown promptly? This plant has set fruit in the past, but never very much. In fact, there are never more that a few fruits. The bright orange fruits are ornamental; has anyone ever seen a plant of any of the Scadoxus species where most of the flowers have set fruit? That must be a spectacular sight! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where a milkweed which yesterday had three large monarch butterfly caterpillars has none today. From lewisia@hei.net Wed Sep 6 21:23:34 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060906182054.0232d418@hei.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Wed, 06 Sep 2006 18:23:28 -0700 Hi all, I've been following this thread. I brought a dormant A. b "Blanda" up north to Oregon with me. I thought I was going to have to try it in pots in the greenhouse. Roger's experience in B.C. is most encouraging. I'll try it outside. I also had some smaller bulbs from seed that had never bloomed. I will be able to try them out too. Yippee. Best, Joyce Miller, Gresham, OR USDA 7. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Sep 6 21:37:08 2006 Message-Id: <000701c6d21e$21125820$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: American Fritillaria in plunge bed Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2006 21:37:06 -0400 In an earlier post I came down pretty dogmatically against summering American frits in a plunge bed here on the east coast. While poking around in the garden yesterday, I realized that I have already done essentially that - and with good results. But the frit in question is Fritillaria camtschatcensis. I checked it yesterday and it's fine. It's not really in a plunge bed, but it is exposed to the rain and humidity. This plant is probably of Japanese provenance, not North American provenance, so technically I have not yet successfully summered a North American frit outside, exposed to summer rain. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where there are enough rice grains on that frit bulb to start a little cottage industry. From j.grimshaw@virgin.net Thu Sep 7 03:20:09 2006 Message-Id: <003601c6d24e$0b855f90$d8fc1b52@John> From: "John Grimshaw" Subject: Scadoxus multiflorus seed Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 08:20:05 +0100 Jim McKenney wrote: The bright orange fruits are ornamental; > has anyone ever seen a plant of any of the Scadoxus species where most of > the flowers have set fruit? That must be a spectacular sight! I have and they are. What is puzzling to me is the question of seed dispersal in amaryllids with a fleshy berry and rather soft-skinned seed. Scadoxus, Haemanthus, Clivia have such fruits, turning from green to red when ripe, a characteristic of bird-dispersed fruits. The berries are also within the gape size of most of the 'usual suspects' of fruit-eating birds in Africa. But can the seeds withstand the action of the crop before either regurgitation or defecation? The distribution of Scadoxus multiflorus and S. puniceus over huge tracts of Africa demonstrate that dispersal is effective and potentially long-distance. The range of Clivia is probably restrained by the availability of suitable habitat. Does anyone know if there are studies on dispersal in wild Clivia? Even more intriguing is the case of certain Crinum, especially the East African plains species C. kirkii, which develops a large red capsule containing the usual lumpy, greenish seeds. When ripe this object is very conspicuous and would be expected to be an attractant to dispersers. But a soft crinum seed would not last long in the gizzard of an ostrich or ground hornbill, which are obvious potential candidates. Perhaps the red coloration is unimportant in this case and the seeds just roll away in the usual Crinum way as the capsule opens. I do not know how big Crinum seeds in dry places move more than a few feet from their parent, but can conceive that a rodent or primate might pick them up and carry them a short way (those in damp habitats, including coastlines, obviously have flotation options). John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- From jimlykos@optusnet.com.au Thu Sep 7 04:21:56 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6d256$ad468c20$f74c1fd3@AMARYLLIS> From: "Jim Lykos" Subject: Scadoxus multiflorus seed Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 18:21:54 +1000 Hi John, I can verify that Scadoxus puniceus seed is eaten by birds and emerges clean and whole from their dropings. Last November a crop of Scadoxus berries had rippened on five umbels and I noted that I would collect and sow them the following weekend. When I went to collect them I was amazed to find that only 7 berries were left (out of 120+). Near the Scadoxus plants I found a few berries on a low brick fence in bird droppings - a few more were found in a nearby garden bed alongside the fence line - in bird droppings? Cheers Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: John Grimshaw To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 5:20 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Scadoxus multiflorus seed Jim McKenney wrote: The bright orange fruits are ornamental; > has anyone ever seen a plant of any of the Scadoxus species where most of > the flowers have set fruit? That must be a spectacular sight! I have and they are. What is puzzling to me is the question of seed dispersal in amaryllids with a fleshy berry and rather soft-skinned seed. Scadoxus, Haemanthus, Clivia have such fruits, turning from green to red when ripe, a characteristic of bird-dispersed fruits. The berries are also within the gape size of most of the 'usual suspects' of fruit-eating birds in Africa. But can the seeds withstand the action of the crop before either regurgitation or defecation? The distribution of Scadoxus multiflorus and S. puniceus over huge tracts of Africa demonstrate that dispersal is effective and potentially long-distance. The range of Clivia is probably restrained by the availability of suitable habitat. Does anyone know if there are studies on dispersal in wild Clivia? Even more intriguing is the case of certain Crinum, especially the East African plains species C. kirkii, which develops a large red capsule containing the usual lumpy, greenish seeds. When ripe this object is very conspicuous and would be expected to be an attractant to dispersers. But a soft crinum seed would not last long in the gizzard of an ostrich or ground hornbill, which are obvious potential candidates. Perhaps the red coloration is unimportant in this case and the seeds just roll away in the usual Crinum way as the capsule opens. I do not know how big Crinum seeds in dry places move more than a few feet from their parent, but can conceive that a rodent or primate might pick them up and carry them a short way (those in damp habitats, including coastlines, obviously have flotation options). John Grimshaw Dr John M. Grimshaw Garden Manager, Colesbourne Gardens Sycamore Cottage Colesbourne Nr Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL53 9NP Website: www.colesbournegardens.org.uk ----- _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Thu Sep 7 10:39:27 2006 Message-Id: <008401c6d28b$425aeca0$e670ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Box 121and others Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 13:37:40 +0200 How much do I owe altogether at the moment? I know I was slightly in credit a while back. Regards Myke ----- Original Message ----- From: Arnold Trachtenberg To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121 Myke: I have you owing $6.00 for BX 113 and Dell hasn't sent me the recent BX spread sheet. Address is: Arnold Trachtenberg 140 Lakeview Avenue Leonia, NJ 07605 It may be better to wait for the other charges to get to me and you can send it all at once. I'll forward you the numbers once I get them. Regards, Arnold _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 7 12:09:13 2006 Message-Id: <4500461C.2B69F3C2@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Thu, 07 Sep 2006 09:17:32 -0700 Dear Joyce: As a former resident of Gresham, I think you would have luck with the A.b. but I would suggest you place it where the early morning sun doe not shine on it. Where do you live in Gresham? Way back in the early 60's I started the Parks being the 1st Park Commissioner. We raised over a million for this, quite a feat way back then. Cheers, John E. Bryan Joyce Miller wrote: > > Hi all, > I've been following this thread. I brought a dormant A. b > "Blanda" up north to Oregon with me. I thought I was going to have > to try it in pots in the greenhouse. Roger's experience in B.C. is > most encouraging. I'll try it outside. I also had some smaller > bulbs from seed that had never bloomed. I will be able to try them > out too. Yippee. > Best, Joyce Miller, Gresham, OR USDA 7. > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From susanann@sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 7 18:27:11 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 15:27:04 -0700 At 10:40 AM -0400 9/6/06, James Yourch wrote: >Hi all, > >We recently had a discussion about how some rainlilies (especially Z. >candida and kin) enjoy moist soils, even wet feet. Here is an article >about going one step further, growing rainlilies in your pond! **At our local garden center, in their water garden section, they have Z. candida sitting in the water. I was worried about rot. s. -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From dells@voicenet.com Fri Sep 8 06:55:00 2006 Message-Id: <20060908105500.B7BCE4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Box 121and others Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 06:54:53 -0400 I'll get back to you when I have a free moment to investigate. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Myke Ashley-Cooper Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:38 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121and others How much do I owe altogether at the moment? I know I was slightly in credit a while back. Regards Myke ----- Original Message ----- From: Arnold Trachtenberg To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121 Myke: I have you owing $6.00 for BX 113 and Dell hasn't sent me the recent BX spread sheet. Address is: Arnold Trachtenberg 140 Lakeview Avenue Leonia, NJ 07605 It may be better to wait for the other charges to get to me and you can send it all at once. I'll forward you the numbers once I get them. Regards, Arnold _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From ashley.cooper@new.co.za Fri Sep 8 14:17:08 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6d372$d4ee3030$fb70ef9b@mykecbcb148b69> From: "Myke Ashley-Cooper" Subject: Box 121and others and Bulbinellas Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 14:16:45 +0200 I sincerely apologize for sending this to the list. It was meant to go to Arnold Trachtenberg. Have just had a superb 2 week trip into Namibia. The highlight was a visit to Nieuwoudtville to see the many thousands of yellow Bulbinellas standing proudly above all their smaller friends! What an incredible sight it was! ----- Original Message ----- From: Dell Sherk To: 'Pacific Bulb Society' Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 12:54 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121and others I'll get back to you when I have a free moment to investigate. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Myke Ashley-Cooper Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2006 7:38 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121and others How much do I owe altogether at the moment? I know I was slightly in credit a while back. Regards Myke ----- Original Message ----- From: Arnold Trachtenberg To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Box 121 Myke: I have you owing $6.00 for BX 113 and Dell hasn't sent me the recent BX spread sheet. Address is: Arnold Trachtenberg 140 Lakeview Avenue Leonia, NJ 07605 It may be better to wait for the other charges to get to me and you can send it all at once. I'll forward you the numbers once I get them. Regards, Arnold From brent.hine@ubc.ca Fri Sep 8 11:10:47 2006 Message-Id: <450187FB.5000402@ubc.ca> From: "Brent A. Hine" Subject: cyrtanthus epiphyticus Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 08:10:51 -0700 Hello, last year I planted this species in gravel in a bulb frame, and this year it bloomed for the first time. See the image at http://www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org/potd/2006/09/cyrtanthus_epiphyticus.php It and C. breviflorus (planted in open ground) produced flowers and fat seed capsules this summer. Last winter was -7C/20F at coldest here which didn't seem to bother either one. Winter conditions are quite different for each: C. epiphyticus in bulb frame culture has a dry winter, while C. breviflorus is subjected to copious cold rainfall, although soil is free draining. -- Brent A. Hine From eagle85@flash.net Fri Sep 8 12:04:32 2006 Message-Id: <5194B27E-3F52-11DB-996B-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Veltheimia information Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 08:54:32 -0700 Does anyone know of information on the V. bracteata variegated leaf forms - either/both the yellow flower form or the pink flower 'OKEBONO' form? Doug From eagle85@flash.net Fri Sep 8 12:05:10 2006 Message-Id: <68A27846-3F52-11DB-996B-00050277B6E6@flash.net> From: Doug Westfall Subject: Veltheimia information wanted Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 08:55:11 -0700 Does anyone know of information on the V. bracteata variegated leaf forms - either/both the yellow flower form or the pink flower 'OKEBONO' form? Doug From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Sep 8 11:59:27 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 15:59:25 +0000 Hi Susan: Do not fear. Zephyranthes candida in the wild grows in full sun in soaking wet soils during autumn, winter and spring. In summer these riverside plains dry out gradually until the time of first March rains (very late summer in this part of the world). This is when they flower, Slight frosts are experienced during winter but of course the river protects the plants from any damage from it. Foliage is perennial. AND, I have seen superb forms of Z. candida growing with wet feet in the foulest smelling muck in DEEP SHADE among riveside trees. In these locations they never receive any sunlight yet they flower fantastically well. The area is warm and frost free. Two Texan species, pulchella and refugiensis, already mentioned, have the reputation of being not very easy to flower except with wet feet at certain stages of their cycles. Another aquatic species is Z. flavissima, now apparently extinct in the wild. Its habitat was hot river banks where it grew with 4-8 in. of water, except in summer when the area would become bone dry until autumn. Foliage is perennial and is madly offsetting. All the best Alberto > Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 15:27:04 -0700> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> From: susanann@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies and wetness> > At 10:40 AM -0400 9/6/06, James Yourch wrote:> >Hi all,> >> >We recently had a discussion about how some rainlilies (especially Z.> >candida and kin) enjoy moist soils, even wet feet. Here is an article> >about going one step further, growing rainlilies in your pond!> > **At our local garden center, in their water garden section, they > have Z. candida sitting in the water. I was worried about rot.> > s.> -- > susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17.> 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek > of the ocean.> _______________________________________________> pbs mailing list> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu propia página de inicio, personalizada para ver rápidamente todo lo que te interesa en un mismo sitio. http://www.live.com/getstarted From lewisia@hei.net Fri Sep 8 13:00:35 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060908095017.02331180@hei.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Fri, 08 Sep 2006 10:00:10 -0700 Hello John, Thanks for your history. You have vast experiences. I am located on 208th Ave two blocks south of Stark St. in Gresham, Oregon. For the geographically challenged this is USDA 7, located 14 miles west of Portland, OR, west of the Cascade Mountains. So west and southern is best exposure. BTW Convention wisdom says to plant Hippeastrum with shoulders exposed. Does the say obtain for Amaryllis sp? Convention wisdom isn't always correct. One such example is Gloriosa superba and its near kin. The gray beards at IBS pontificated no winter water -- bone dry they said. Well, at the UCD Botanical Conservatory I found some dormant Gloriosa in late winter hanging in slatted boxes. They were being watered on the same schedule as the adjacent Cattleya sp. i.e. 3 times a week. Appalled, I tipped out the dormant tubers only to find they were happy with nascent sprouted tubers alive and well. Best wishes, Joyce From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Fri Sep 8 14:29:47 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6d36b$7d68cf20$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Glorisoa winter conditions was RE: Amaryllis belladonna. Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 13:23:23 -0400 Joyce Miller pointed out that Gloriosa tolerates moist conditions while dormant. More than that: it has been known to survive the winters here in the Washington, D.C. area. Winters here are dry when everything is frozen and wet when everything thaws. The plants which have survived the winter in my garden are in very protected sites, right against the house wall. I doubt that the soil freezes there, but it's cold and sometimes wet. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Gloriosa is blooming gloriously in some tubs planted with Salvia, Cuphea, Calibrachoa, Portulaca and other summer bloomers. From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Fri Sep 8 14:39:19 2006 Message-Id: <000901c6d376$18634b40$55a7f10a@wsbmain.net> From: "Fred Biasella" Subject: What's growing, flowering, survived!!! Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 14:39:17 -0400 Hello All, I was extremely surprised and happy to see Rhodophiala Bifida (from a previous PBX) flowering in my garden this morning. I planted it last fall, mulched it for the winter and hoped for the best. I also planted two Eucomis (locally available clones) last fall and they also flowered…with a vengeance. I had them in pots for a few years and over wintered them in the basement totally dry. After a discussion on the PBS last year, I decided to plant them and see if they would come back…boy did they ever…they never looked better. They seem to like being planted in the ground rather than in pots even in my cold climate. Last summer I also planted two large bulbs of Hippeastrum Johnsonii (from E-Bay – grower in Texas) and not only did it flower nicely but the leaves are huge (about 2 ½ feet long!!!). I have two Nerine Sarniensis hybrids (from Odyssey Bulbs) that survived the winter and is now putting out strong leaf growth. The bulbs were rather small so I think it may be a few years before they flower. There are three clumps of Nerine Bowdenii that seem to be offsetting quite nicely and one of the clumps have been around for many years (+15 years). Hopefully I’ll get a few blooms this year before the frost lulls them to sleep. I planted three Amaryllis Belladonna bulbs (also locally available clones) in the spring of 2005 in the sunniest possible spot of my garden. They actually made through the winter to my wonderful surprise. This spring they put out very strong leaf growth and as expected, the leaves died down in early summer but no flowers (sigh). These were dormant dry (stressed out) bulbs so it may take some time before they acclimatize and hopefully flower. Time will tell and I’ll keep y’all posted. Warm Regards, Fred Biasella Cambridge (Boston) MA USDA Zone 6b From piabinha@yahoo.com Fri Sep 8 14:49:19 2006 Message-Id: <20060908184919.12095.qmail@web51913.mail.yahoo.com> From: piaba Subject: Worsleya Is it Love? Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 11:49:14 -0700 (PDT) alberto, i did not realize it grew in argentina. i thought it was restricted to the state of Rio de Janeiro in brazil? tsuh yang --- Alberto Castillo wrote: > Hi Ron: Interesting that my advice makes > you laugh. Yet, Worsleya is like so many other > amaryllids a slow growing plant, even in its native > Brazil and here, the neighboring country. You are > very fortunate in having your plants grow fast. > > All the best > Alberto __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri Sep 8 16:21:51 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: Worsleya Is it Love? Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 20:21:49 +0000 Hi Tsuh: Of course you are right in that Worsleya comes from a single location in Brazil, but we have grown it here (in Argentina) and know of people who has grown it in the past in Brazil and in all cases the noticeable problem was the long period taken to reach flowering size, which is nothing unheard of in Brunsvigias, certain Hippeastrums, etc., etc. This is normal in plants that are extremely long lived as individuals. Not in the same family but once we calculated with Adriana Hoffmann that the age of Zephyra elegans corms she brought me were 90 years from germination, and this is just an example. All the best Alberto _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu propia página de inicio, personalizada para ver rápidamente todo lo que te interesa en un mismo sitio. http://www.live.com/getstarted From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 9 01:01:54 2006 Message-Id: <000801c6d3bf$cf4e5770$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinum asiaticum and medicine: Link. Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2006 23:26:55 -0400 I found this to be of interest. http://www.ics.trieste.it/MedicinalPlant/_MedicinalPlant_PharmacologicalStudies.aspx?id=31 Robert. Z7b. From lewisia@hei.net Mon Sep 11 10:11:01 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.2.20060910094250.022ed4d8@hei.net> From: Joyce Miller Subject: A. b. Blanda Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 09:47:49 -0700 Dear Uli, Remember our trade on about a year ago. I traded A.b. Blanda for your Hippeastrum calyptratum. After a long dormancy the Hipp finally produced shoots this month. I recall at the time, you updated the A.b name. Please refresh my memory. If it blooms next year for me, I would imagine some of our growers would like some pollen. To the future. Best wishes, Joyce Miller, At 06:32 PM 09/02/2006, you wrote: >Hi Gang, > > > >Many Eucalyptus species, and some related plants, make a lignotuber. I'm >not sure what a lignotuber is anatomically, but I think it is some sort of >stem-perhaps like a potato storage organ. > > > >Lignoubers allow Eucalyptus species (and Corymbia species, which used to be >classified as Eucalyptus) to regrow after fire or other damage. The >lignotuber is a tough storage organ, and because it is underground can allow >some species to survive 1 or 2 zones of colder temperatures than they might >prefer. I've had good luck with Eucalyptus citriodora (Corymbia >citriodora), the lemon scented plant. In the wild the tree can reach 60-100 >ft-tall. In my garden growth is more modest. > > > >However, the benefit of a lignotuber is that (at least some) eucalypts can >behave as dieback perennials in areas that are much too cold to allow tall >tree growth. > > > >Many mallees, some trees, and some odds-and-ends species will perform well >in climates that are too cold to allow a "real" tree or shrub to develop. >The plants freeze back each winter and sprout stems that can reach 6-8 >feet-tall each growing season. The benefit is especially nice with plants >that make beautiful foliage or which have strong and acceptable scents. I >do enjoy E. citriodora, a sprig can perfume a room with a pleasant lemony >scent. > > > >One other Eucalyptus that I grow is E. viridis. This plant does well here >and, so far, has not suffered from root diseases that plague other eucalypts >I have tried to grow. E. viridis is a modest appearing plant, but has >wonderfully fragrant leaves that provide oils that are used in soaps and >cough drops, etc. > > > >The main thing is that, for me, I treat these plants as bulbous-growing >things. If/when temperatures threaten to go very low, I mulch the plants >heavily, and let to tops freeze. In the spring, with warmth and some water >(warmth is key), the plants return and make a garden into a better place, >pleasing the nose as well as the eye. > > > >NOTE: I've tried various eucalypts here in the greater Houston, TX area. >Many survive the climate and thrive for 2-3 years only to succumb to root >diseases. I've had some luck growing the plants from seeds in sterile soils >(microwave baked) and letting them get large before planting out-then I give >them the best drainage I possibly can. > > > >TWO WINNERS (SO FAR): > >1. Eucalyptus citriodora > >2. E. viridis > > > >I hope to try more mallee types in the future (shrubby or with many stems >from the base, not trees but 10-30 ft-tall). > > > > > >LINK: Australia Plants, source of many seeds and some seedlings > >http://www.australiaplants.com/ > >NOTE: Eucalypts can grow 4-8 feet in a year, even from seed. > > > >LINK: The Hardy Euclalyptus Page > >http://www.angelfire.com/bc/eucalyptus/ > > > >LINK: Eucalyptus camaldulensis, a lignotuber seems optional in this species > >http://www.publish.csiro.au/paper/BT9830283.htm > > > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshaw@opuntiads.com Mon Sep 11 09:40:53 2006 Message-Id: <001701c6d538$31ab90d0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: 5-gallon contaniers, vendors, etc. Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 19:21:12 -0500 Hi Gang, I'm writing because I'm looking for a source (inexpensive is good) of 5-gallon containers (4-, 5-, or 7-gallon, ca. 20-24 liters). I have gotten good advice from many email friends and think that I will follow their leads. However, I need 200+ containers each year and don't think I will succeed with an ad hoc approach. Therefore, does anyone recommend a WWW vendor for large, nursery containers, about 5-gallons in size? Durability and stoutness are always considerations, but mostly I'm looking for vendors that might offer several lines of nursery liners. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX It rained today, but not too much. Though it rained, I watered the shrubs that I hope will bloom in October (e.g., Confederate Rose). From growplants@hotmail.com Mon Sep 11 12:08:47 2006 Message-Id: From: "John Manion" Subject: Hyacinth vases Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 12:08:46 -0400 We are holding a bulb sale next month and would like to include some hyacinth vases along with the bulbs. Does anyone know a source for inexpensive hyacinth vases? Thanks, John T. Manion, Curator Bailey Arboretum 194 Bayville Road Lattingtown, NY 11560 (516) 571-8020 www.baileyarboretum.org _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself with gadgets on Windows Live Spaces http://discoverspaces.live.com?source=hmtag1&loc=us From irisman@ameritech.net Mon Sep 11 14:03:16 2006 Message-Id: <000201c6d5cc$37a14b80$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 11 Vendors; Nursery supplies Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 11:46:27 -0500 Joe, and others. For nursery supplies, I have found A. M. Leonard very useful. They are on line and have wholesale quantiies and prices in addition to smaller quantities. They have a few items that are very hard to find elsewhere. ..like tags for hybridizing that can be snapped on with one hand, reused for about 3 years,and take either permanent outdoor ink or ordinary lead pencil ----- Original Message ----- From: To: From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Sep 11 12:54:45 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060911095347.00c18db0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: 5-gallon contaniers, vendors, etc. Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 09:56:05 -0700 Joe asked >I'm writing because I'm looking for a source (inexpensive is good) of >5-gallon containers (4-, 5-, or 7-gallon, ca. 20-24 liters). Most growers around here get theirs from Anderson Die & Manufacturing, 2425 SE Moores St., Portland, 503-654-5629. I don't know if they have a website, but they do ship nationally. The pots are UV stabilized and used widely for container growing in both greenhouses and open sites. They come in all sizes, even bigger than 5 gallon. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From pcamusa@hotmail.com Mon Sep 11 13:50:00 2006 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: 5-gallon contaniers, vendors, etc. Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 13:49:52 -0400 Joe- These are not pots, but I've had good luck with the smaller grow bags. I prefer the white bags because of the heat. I've used quite a few one and two gallon bags. They need to be filled nearly to the top, otherwise the top folds over the soil and prevents water from entering. I have also used a few three gallon grow bags and they become difficult to move when the soil is saturated with water. The logistics of moving a 5 or 10 gallon grow bag has given me pause. Perhaps when completely dry they are tractable. One advantage of the bags is that I can pack them more tightly than conventional pots. They can also be relatively cheap and are easy to transport (when folded). Here is one link to the bags: http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=SBG302 Regards, -Phil >From: "Joe Shaw" >Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society >To: >Subject: [pbs] 5-gallon contaniers, vendors, etc. >Date: Sun, 10 Sep 2006 19:21:12 -0500 > >Hi Gang, > > > >I'm writing because I'm looking for a source (inexpensive is good) of >5-gallon containers (4-, 5-, or 7-gallon, ca. 20-24 liters). I have gotten >good advice from many email friends and think that I will follow their >leads. > > > >However, I need 200+ containers each year and don't think I will succeed >with an ad hoc approach. Therefore, does anyone recommend a WWW vendor for >large, nursery containers, about 5-gallons in size? Durability and >stoutness are always considerations, but mostly I'm looking for vendors >that >might offer several lines of nursery liners. > > > > > >Cordially, > > > > > >Joe > >Conroe, TX > >It rained today, but not too much. Though it rained, I watered the shrubs >that I hope will bloom in October (e.g., Confederate Rose). > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From mhomick@clearwire.net Mon Sep 11 14:27:35 2006 Message-Id: <001001c6d5cf$e9b6b690$6401a8c0@gardener76927d> From: "Michael Homick" Subject: 5-gallon contaniers, vendors, etc. Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 11:27:13 -0700 We work for a plant that manufactures Jams & Jellies and we often obtain our fruit (cherries) in square 4 gallon / 15 liter pails,100+ at a time. As they are square and white, they place right up to one another and reflect the heat of our California sun shine. We have some that have been right out in full sun for 3 summers and just now are starting to show some evidence of getting brittle. If you wish manufacturer info we can get it for you. All the best, Michael & Paul Hilmar, CA From alhouston77009@hotmail.com Mon Sep 11 17:39:55 2006 Message-Id: From: "al houston" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 11 Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 21:39:51 +0000 Hi Joe, In Houston try BWI on Post Oak Blvd for containers,...best price in town. They will ship but it would be cheaper to pick them up locally. The main office is in Schulenburg and have a tax number ready since its wholesale only... Al Howell in Houston Texas >Hi Gang, > >I'm writing because I'm looking for a source (inexpensive is good) of >5-gallon containers (4-, 5-, or 7-gallon, ca. 20-24 liters). I have gotten >good advice from many email friends and think that I will follow their >leads. >However, I need 200+ containers each year and don't think I will succeed >with an ad hoc approach. Therefore, does anyone recommend a WWW vendor for >large, nursery containers, about 5-gallons in size? Durability and >stoutness are always considerations, but mostly I'm looking for vendors >that >might offer several lines of nursery liners. > >Cordially, > >Joe > >Conroe, TX > _________________________________________________________________ Get the new Windows Live Messenger! http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wlmailtagline From norwesgard@earthlink.net Tue Sep 12 12:20:02 2006 Message-Id: From: Mary Gutierrez Subject: container supplier Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 09:14:36 -0700 The McConkey Co. near Seattle is a large manufacturer/distributor of containers & growing supplies. Here's their website: http://www.mcconkeyco.com/ Mary Gutierrez Seattle From dells@voicenet.com Tue Sep 12 16:32:21 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 126 Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 16:32:01 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 126" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From an unknown donor: 1. Seed of Lachenalia campanulata From Mary Sue Ittner: 2. Seed of Hesperantha latifolia From Rogan Roth: 3. Seed of Hippeastrum calyptratum 4. Seed of Lachenalia pusilla From Chuck Powell: 5. Seed of Drosera peltata, see From Angela Offer: 6. Seed of Hosta ventricosa 7. Seed of Mirabilis jalapa From Alberto Grossi: 8. Small corms of Freesia alba ex South African seed 9. Seed of Iris tectorum 10. Seed of Canna indica 11. Seed of Mirabilis jalapa, white From Marcelle Sheppard via Joe Shaw: 12. Seedlings of unknown Crinum cvs 13. Seeds of Crinum pedunculatum, open pollinated (small supply) Thank you, Unknown, Mary Sue, Rogan, Chuck, Angela, Alberto, Marcelle, and Joe !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From dells@voicenet.com Tue Sep 12 17:18:12 2006 Message-Id: <20060912211812.9D69E4C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Seed donations Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 17:18:01 -0400 Dear Angela, The seeds arrived in good shape and, you will see, are offered on BX 126. Thank you, very much! One note of caution: there was soil in the package which, I think, came out of the Mirabilis seed envelope. Please do everything you can to eliminate ANY soil from your donations. That is the only reason I have ever had stuff seized by the *%?!$# They will only tolerate "zero" soil. I wonder what they do for fun. Best regards, Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Angela and Dean Offer Sent: Friday, August 18, 2006 8:45 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Seed donations Hello from Angela in Western Australia, would like to donate seeds, if you can send me the paperwork, if it is worthwhile for you, I have many, many, bulbs, seeds etc I am more than happy to donate. I will be in South Africa for the Clivia Conference, if it is easier for me to take seeds to South Africa to give to other members of PBS to bring back, please let me know Angela Sunny Spring, everything is blooming!! Western Australia _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Sep 12 18:50:34 2006 Message-Id: <007d01c6d6bd$dc699db0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Source for containers, cherries Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 17:50:33 -0500 We work for a plant that manufactures Jams & Jellies and we often obtain our fruit (cherries) in square 4 gallon / 15 liter pails,100+ at a time. +++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, and Michael and Paul, I would be interested to find out about the source of the fruit containers. I smiled when I saw the note that mentioned Hilmar, CA and cherry production. One summer I took a graduate course on Fruit and Nut Tree Diseases; our class visited cherry (and other fruit) growers in the Central Valley of California. One of my most vivid memories from that long ago time was to a cherry orchard and packing center near Turlock, CA (near Hilmar). We studied various tree and post-harvest diseases and cherry growing/processing factors that could contribute to fruit loss. We observed the washing (and waxing) processes and even the maraschino production process. Perhaps most impressive (for me) was how the bruised or green fruits were turned into salable products. Anyway, if you can send information about the fruit containers, I would like to follow up that lead. Cordially, Joe Shaw Conroe, TX From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Sep 12 18:57:27 2006 Message-Id: <009b01c6d6be$d25b31c0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: inexpensive large containers Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 17:57:26 -0500 ....contact any building painting contractor as they are left with [many] used plastic buckets, 5 gallons. I am sure they will give them for free or else ask where [to] dump them. Old, dry paint easily peels off...I have used such buckets with paint inside and it never seemed to have caused damage to the plants inside. Modern paints are not made of lead, arsenic or any other toxic pigment. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Hi Gang, I did recieve very good advice from an email friend. I think his advice is sound and good. The problem for me is that here, in the greather Houston, TX area, everyone seems to be ahead of me. I think of myself as the original dumpster-diver (building pet cages 40 years ago). Howeve, I have tried and failed to find many used containters such as described, thought I have found a few and think they are very suitable for brining most bulbs to flowering size. The retail market seems to have caught on to the usefulness of such containers; new ones are now $7 to $9 at Lowe's or Home Depot. Go figure! However, the orgiginal advice is very good--I need to more agressively approach contractors and builders. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX From seedman01@bellsouth.net Tue Sep 12 19:19:22 2006 Message-Id: <003801c6d6c1$dfd41c10$0201a8c0@desktop> From: "Seedman01" Subject: nursery containers Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 19:19:14 -0400 Joe, Look at www.growersupply.com/ . They have a good selection and price. Tom Perry From arnold@nj.rr.com Tue Sep 12 20:32:02 2006 Message-Id: From: arnold@nj.rr.com Subject: Source for containers, cherries Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 20:32:01 -0400 Joe: I have to admit when read the note about buckets of cherries I thought of the cherries only. Arnold From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Wed Sep 13 11:11:46 2006 Message-Id: <07a401c6d746$ecf74b30$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question. Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 11:11:42 -0400 I'll be putting down some potted Crinum next spring and wonder about planting the neck below soil level in order to set them deep enough to aid in protection. The dried leaf bases will help keep out the soil, I know, but, is having the open neck completely below soil ever a problem? This may be an issue with my potted scabrums as the neck is very short (2" or so) and there are numerous offsets just peeking out of the scales at present. That would have the plant pushing up leaves through roughly 10 inches or more of soil......I can amend the upper soil to help keep it friable and loose to help with emergence, but how will such a distance affect its early growth? Has anyone ever tricked their potted plants by "hilling" (in a sense) with soil or by other method to elongate the neck at emergence to remedy a too-short neck? PDN (Tony "Zonepusher" Avent) says that they must be a foot deep and mulched--I heed that advice, 'cause if anyone challenge zones, it's he. Also, I have read that scabrum is the only Crinum that goes "truly dormant" for winter. Is this so? Do I need to help by withholding moisture? Should I protect from frost untill they do go dormant? Help!! Thanks. Robert. From J.Joschko@gmx.de Wed Sep 13 11:53:37 2006 Message-Id: From: "J. Joschko" Subject: new seeds Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 17:54:29 +0200 Sorry - but I have a problem to send a mail to the list . I will try it again : Hi all , Today I have finished my new list with a lot seeds of peonies. If anybody is interested please write to me privat . Best wishes from Germany Hans Please note my new e-mail adress : J.Joschko@gmx.de From jglatt@hughes.net Wed Sep 13 12:28:37 2006 Message-Id: <450831B3.9070607@hughes.net> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Plastic Buckets Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 12:28:35 -0400 Joe - and any one else looking for buckets: Chinese restaurants get duck sauce in 5 gallon buckets. I kid you not - saw one behind the counter of a take-out joint, asked for it, and it was mine. Food grade, white, red lettering (in Chinese.) Don't know how many you can collect this way, but it is one source that few others will think of. Dumpster diving at nurseries - I've gotten sturdy black plastic 15 gallon tree / shrub pots that I use for hauling weeds, moving mulch, etc. Handles tend to fatigue after a while, so my husband pop-rivets a piece of thin aluminum sheet to reinforce where it cracks. Judy in NJ where nights are getting cool (below 50° Fahrenheit) and the first of the bananas has come indoors for the winter. Good thing we have tall ceilings. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Wed Sep 13 12:59:23 2006 Message-Id: <07d301c6d755$f62ffd50$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question. Addendum. Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 12:59:20 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "rdjenkins" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 11:11 AM Subject: [pbs] Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question. > I'll be putting down some potted Crinum next spring and wonder about planting the neck below soil level in order to set them deep enough to aid in protection. The dried leaf bases will help keep out the soil, I know, but, is having the open neck completely below soil ever a problem? etc. I'm in USDA 7b. Robert. From toadlily@olywa.net Wed Sep 13 14:30:16 2006 Message-Id: <45084E3A.1030709@olywa.net> From: Laura & Dave Subject: More Plastic Buckets Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 11:30:18 -0700 Another source of 5 gal. buckets is the sub sandwich shops that serve a pickle with your meal. I was getting three a week from one local Blimpie's shop. Dave Brastow, who is trying to complete the 47 or so summer projects before it railns tomorrow!! From ptyerman@ozemail.com.au Wed Sep 13 17:55:51 2006 Message-Id: <6.2.3.4.0.20060914075350.02c13be0@pop.ozemail.com.au> From: Paul Tyerman Subject: More Plastic Buckets Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 07:55:39 +1000 At 04:30 AM 14/09/2006, you wrote: >Another source of 5 gal. buckets is the sub sandwich shops that serve a >pickle with your meal. I was getting three a week from one local >Blimpie's shop. Howdy All, Can't remember whether this has been mentioned or not, but specialist cake shops get their icings etc in buckets. That is where I source buckets if I am wanting them. They tend to now charge a couple of $ each whereas they used to not charge for them. More people are asking for them now I guess and they realised they can recoup some money that way! Sorry if this avenue has already been suggested. Cheers. Paul Tyerman Canberra, Australia - USDA Zone Equivalent approx. 8/9 Growing an eclectic collection of plants from all over the world including Aroids, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythroniums, Fritillarias, Galanthus, Irises, Trilliums (to name but a few) and just about anything else that doesn't move!! From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Wed Sep 13 18:55:47 2006 Message-Id: <20060913225547.75689.qmail@web56103.mail.re3.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: More Plastic Buckets Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 15:55:47 -0700 (PDT) Also kitty litter comes in square buckets sometimes! Susan Bryant --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Sep 13 19:32:58 2006 Message-Id: <002b01c6d78c$f0cd7db0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 18:32:53 -0500 Also, I have read that scabrum is the only Crinum that goes "truly dormant" for winter. ========================= Hi Gang and Robert, There were many questions within a question in the note; I enjoyed it because it all caused me to think. 1. I would be loathe to violate any advice proffered by Tony A., unless another authority had found an alternative approach to zone-breaking. 2. Dave Lehmiller has indicated that he provides just about any Crinum from Africa with a dry, winter dormancy (see the link at the bottom of the URL: http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/culture.html ). However, as I read over the manuscript in question, C. scabrum does not seem to be mentioned. 3. In my own garden, I have grown C. scabrum (2 different, seemingly true-to-type) year-round outdoors in 20- or 25-gallon containers. The have died back in winter and "gone dormant," but received rain 12 months of the year. The soil has not frozen. Marcelle Sheppard reports the same for C. scabrum grown outdoors in the ground in her East Texas garden. 4. I've never tried to trick Crinum into growing longer necks. But, one strategy I have employed for many plants is to let them go dormant over winter (cool and dry) by putting them in an unheated garage or basement, or perhaps under a porch (it depended upon climate zone). In this way I get some plants to grow to a larger size before I put them in the ground. They survive the cool weather if dormant due to drought (or mostly dormant). 5. Offsets still attached to the mother bulb should be fairly impervious to deep planting (just guessing) as long as the mother bulb is OK. 6. 10 inches deep, for the bottom of a bulb, doesn't worry me too much, but plants are like kids--what works for some is a mistake for others. 7. C. scabrum has some cold hardiness, but I wouldn't plant it near the surface if the ground freezes deeply. 8. It seems that, as I look over species descriptions and garden comments, that C. scabrum is a variable group of plants. What works for some C. scabrum plants might not work for other similar-appearing plants. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Sep 13 19:47:14 2006 Message-Id: <003b01c6d78e$f1ac3300$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: F. boliviana Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 18:47:14 -0500 Hi Chuck, First, I hope I have your correct email address; I lost some email messages and am "groping" for some addresses. Second, thanks so much for the plant that you sent to me. I will do my best to keep it alive and healthy. I'm not worried about it now, or for winter. I just wonder about next summer (just because of my other experiences with fuchsias). I will keep the plant protected from too-much cold, and will keep it with some (of the very few plants) that I protect when temperatures threaten to go below 28 F. The leaves are very attractive, sort of fuzzy white, and gray too, but mostly green. Thanks so much. Cordially, Joe Shaw Conroe TX P.S. Can you use any C. bulbispermum Jumbo seedlings, or perhaps a 1-year-old seedling from Marcelle's garden (either C. scabrum-type or Burgundy hybrid type)? Just let me know and I'll be happy to send Crinum seedlings. I crawled about on the ground to salvage Marcelle's crop of C. scabrum hybrids and Burgundy hybrids last year; she was just home from the hospital (a tree fell on her) and stuck in a wheelchair. So, the seedlings are not sorted by mother plant, but they are sorted by flowerbed. I have 2-3 I can send, 1-yr-old and not-yet-flowered. LINK: Burgundy Hybrids http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-burgundy-hybrids.html LINK: C. scabrum-type hyribds http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-rose-city-clones-and-hybrids.html LINK: C. bulbispermum Jumbo hybrids (likely plants will be in pale colors when they bloom) http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-jumbos.html From puppincuff@cox.net Wed Sep 13 20:51:14 2006 Message-Id: <000c01c6d797$dfd639b0$6401a8c0@Office> From: "chuck schwartz" Subject: F. boliviana Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 17:51:12 -0700 I have some of the 'jumbo' seedlings you gave to the Bx. The scabrum or burgandy seedlings sound interesting (let's face it, I drool at the thought of it). Don't worry about getting more Fuchsias, I can replace them easily. This one likes more sun when it gets warmer(?!) but may suffer. Good luck! chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 4:47 PM Subject: [pbs] F. boliviana > Hi Chuck, > > > > First, I hope I have your correct email address; I lost some email > messages and am "groping" for some addresses. > > > > Second, thanks so much for the plant that you sent to me. I will do my > best to keep it alive and healthy. I'm not worried about it now, or for > winter. I just wonder about next summer (just because of my other > experiences with fuchsias). > > > > I will keep the plant protected from too-much cold, and will keep it with > some (of the very few plants) that I protect when temperatures threaten to > go below 28 F. > > > > The leaves are very attractive, sort of fuzzy white, and gray too, but > mostly green. > > > > Thanks so much. > > > > > > > > Cordially, > > > > Joe Shaw > > Conroe TX > > > > P.S. Can you use any C. bulbispermum Jumbo seedlings, or perhaps a > 1-year-old seedling from Marcelle's garden (either C. scabrum-type or > Burgundy hybrid type)? Just let me know and I'll be happy to send Crinum > seedlings. I crawled about on the ground to salvage Marcelle's crop of C. > scabrum hybrids and Burgundy hybrids last year; she was just home from the > hospital (a tree fell on her) and stuck in a wheelchair. So, the > seedlings are not sorted by mother plant, but they are sorted by > flowerbed. I have 2-3 I can send, 1-yr-old and not-yet-flowered. > > > > > > LINK: Burgundy Hybrids > > http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-burgundy-hybrids.html > > > > > > LINK: C. scabrum-type hyribds > > http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-rose-city-clones-and-hybrids.html > > > > > > LINK: C. bulbispermum Jumbo hybrids (likely plants will be in pale colors > when they bloom) > > http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/crinum-hybrids-marcelle/crinum-jumbos.html > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Wed Sep 13 21:02:42 2006 Message-Id: <002801c6d799$795e0210$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2006 21:02:15 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 7:32 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting dormant Crinum and scabrum question Thanks Joe. > Also, I have read that scabrum is the only Crinum that goes "truly dormant" > for winter. I took that to mean that it was naturally deciduous rather than being defoliated and halted by frost. Perhaps in its home in Africa, it would naturally die back during the dry season, but might continue green until frost under cultivation. > 1. I would be loathe to violate any advice proffered by Tony A., unless > another authority had found an alternative approach to zone-breaking. I'm the same way......Tony, if you're following this, won't you chime in with any further7b tips? I'm near Charlotte and nearer 8b than you guys in the Triangle, so I'm hoping I don't have to go a foot deep...I'd have to work the soil a good deal below that and I'm just hoping to avoid that if I can.........not lazy, just not as young as I once was. ;-) (But which of us is!?) My scabrums are from the north of zone 8b and are old local stock, so I think that will help. The grower states that they are hardy from *7a* south, but didn't mention setting them *deep*. That's one of the things that has me wondering. It may be a matter of applying a good mulch regardless in order not to have to say "they did well for x-number of years and then I lost them" in an unusually cold winter. Maybe I'm just being too cautious........ > 2. However, as I read over > the manuscript in question, C. scabrum does not seem to be mentioned. C. scabrum seems to slip through a lot of cracks. I bet it's that early error about Brazil still haunting us. > 5. Offsets still attached to the mother bulb should be fairly impervious to > deep planting (just guessing) as long as the mother bulb is OK. Good to hear that. > 6. 10 inches deep, for the bottom of a bulb, doesn't worry me too much, but > plants are like kids--what works for some is a mistake for others. > 7. C. scabrum has some cold hardiness, but I wouldn't plant it near the > surface if the ground freezes deeply. > Joe Our soil only freezes a coupla-few (obscure technical term) inches deep but soon thaws again. This is usually in January and unless it's a really bad winter, is never for very long. Isn't there anyone doing any "neck-stretching"? Robert. From studio.pozzitaubert@tiscali.it Thu Sep 14 08:44:46 2006 Message-Id: <40458d50902922166cf40bbd286adddb@tiscali.it> From: studio.nuovo Subject: Zantedeschia seeds Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 14:19:20 +0200 Hi all , my Zantedeschia Picasso a medium size Calla producing many spathes from a single tuber are producing a lot of seeds, I whish to share them with the members but cannot know if theese seeds are fertile or not. Has someone info about it ? Zantedeschia Elliottiana , surely fertile, has 4 big spikes still green they will ripe in October. Thanks, Giorgio From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Thu Sep 14 13:54:40 2006 Message-Id: <20060914175439.75885.qmail@web34311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Plant List Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 10:54:39 -0700 (PDT) Hello, To anyone who may be interested I have put together two lists; the first a sales list of mostly non-hardy (z5) bulbs and a few non-bulbous species, the other a list of items for trade. Reply to my address and I will send the lists. All the best, Aaron Floden Manhattan, KS __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From irisman@ameritech.net Thu Sep 14 14:17:03 2006 Message-Id: <002901c6d829$952d71c0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: C. scabrum and bulbispermum-- planting depth and hardiness Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 13:14:12 -0500 Hello. I have a bulbispermum and a scabrum that I wintered over, planted quite deep--base of the bulb about 14" below ground surface. Sited about 20" away from the foundation of the house. Tip of the bulb was below the surface. No mulch. We had about three zero F° days last year.. I don't know how they would do in a more normal winter e.g, at 15-20 °F for a week or so. I plan to find out. Tony Avent's criteria don't work for me here in 5a but they help. Jim Waddick's criteria work better in Glenview, (Chicago suburb). From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Sep 15 13:21:51 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060914163405.00c51d68@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: New Chilean plant book Date: Thu, 14 Sep 2006 16:36:17 -0700 I have received a prepublication notice for a new volume of the series "Flora nativa de valor ornamental" by Riedemann and Aldunate (this has a third author, S. Teillier), covering the Zona Norte. It is one large volume on the plants and a small companion volume that is a guide to roads and trails where good plants can be seen. This set is being sold by subscription, with the print run limited to subscriptions received by Sept. 30. The publisher does not accept foreign checks or credit cards, so getting hold of the books requires expensive wire transfers and some e-mail correspondence. I'm going to go ahead and order ten copies. If you'd like to reserve one, write to me privately. I can can send you the prospectus (in SPanish). I haven't figured out the cost yet but it's 36,000 Chilean pesos plus shipping; the last set ran to about $80 U.S. The volume I already have is a superior book, and the guide itself is worth the price of admission if you plan to travel independently in Chile. If I get more than ten inquiries, I'll order more but I need to know pretty soon because I have to go to the central branch of my bank in the city to do the wire transfer. I will front the money until the books actually show up; the release date is planned to be mid-November 2006. Jane McGary From paige@hillkeep.ca Fri Sep 15 17:12:00 2006 Message-Id: From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: New Chilean plant book Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 14:11:32 -0700 Hello, Jane. I'd like a copy, please. Thank you for this opportunity. You may already know by the time you read this that the current value of 36,000 Chilean pesos is about $64.00 US at the cash rate. I use http://www.oanda.com/converter/classic for conversions. You could ship to me at: Pacific Rim Native Plant Nursery 115 Garfield St. #3025 Sumas, Wa 98295 I suppose there is no chance of getting the first volume now? Best Paige ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jane McGary" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Thursday, September 14, 2006 4:36 PM Subject: [pbs] New Chilean plant book >I have received a prepublication notice for a new volume of the series > "Flora nativa de valor ornamental" by Riedemann and Aldunate (this has a > third author, S. Teillier), covering the Zona Norte. It is one large > volume > on the plants and a small companion volume that is a guide to roads and > trails where good plants can be seen. This set is being sold by > subscription, with the print run limited to subscriptions received by > Sept. > 30. The publisher does not accept foreign checks or credit cards, so > getting hold of the books requires expensive wire transfers and some > e-mail > correspondence. > > I'm going to go ahead and order ten copies. If you'd like to reserve one, > write to me privately. I can can send you the prospectus (in SPanish). I > haven't figured out the cost yet but it's 36,000 Chilean pesos plus > shipping; the last set ran to about $80 U.S. The volume I already have is > a > superior book, and the guide itself is worth the price of admission if you > plan to travel independently in Chile. If I get more than ten inquiries, > I'll order more but I need to know pretty soon because I have to go to the > central branch of my bank in the city to do the wire transfer. I will > front > the money until the books actually show up; the release date is planned to > be mid-November 2006. > > Jane McGary > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From paige@hillkeep.ca Fri Sep 15 17:31:10 2006 Message-Id: From: "Pacific Rim" Subject: Sorry Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 14:31:11 -0700 Sorry, all. I meant that message for Jane McGary. Paige From talkingpoints@plantsoup.com Sat Sep 16 01:45:33 2006 Message-Id: <0FA53733-9EE1-4A8A-830E-45BF54A5446B@PlantSoup.Com> From: N Sterman Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Fri, 15 Sep 2006 22:45:26 -0700 I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? Nan From jamievande@freenet.de Sat Sep 16 03:38:23 2006 Message-Id: <450BA9ED.803@freenet.de> From: "JamieV." Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 09:38:21 +0200 N Sterman schrieb: > I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its > irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? > > Nan > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > Nan, I grow Eremurus in relatively sandy clay on a slope, as they are from the Steppes and desert areas of the orient, meaning a prolonged dry period and no chance of standing in water. I have lost a few over the years due to heavy Winter rain, which they do not appreciate at all! Simply rotted at the crown. One very inpressive bed I saw in England was a combination of roses with Eremurus bungeii and E. robustus hybrids. The theory was, the roses take up moisture so fast, that the Eremurus can't get overwatered. They require as much sun as possible to increase. Be carefull as the spikes emerge. They are prone to rot in wet conditions, such as prolonged rain or overhead watering. Jamie V. Cologne Germany From talkingpoints@plantsoup.com Sat Sep 16 12:05:40 2006 Message-Id: <56AEC357-A88B-45E7-AC6C-52AEDF5BCABB@PlantSoup.Com> From: N Sterman Subject: Cyberose & bulbs? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 09:05:32 -0700 Anyone know who is responsible for the city http:// www.bulbnrose.com/? How legit is it? Nan From dells@voicenet.com Sat Sep 16 12:50:43 2006 Message-Id: <20060916165043.864814C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Cyberose & bulbs? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 12:50:34 -0400 I think that is the website of Karl King, webmaster for the IBS. Anyone know for sure? Dell -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of N Sterman Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:06 PM To: medit-plants@ucdavis.edu; Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Cyberose & bulbs? Anyone know who is responsible for the city http:// www.bulbnrose.com/? How legit is it? Nan _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sat Sep 16 13:16:37 2006 Message-Id: <57B081E0-6FF3-4721-A9FB-056E95691DAA@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Cyberose & bulbs? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 10:16:34 -0700 Yes, it is. Karl's email address is . And I would say his site is totally legit. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA, USDA Zone 10a On Sep 16, 2006, at 9:50 AM, Dell Sherk wrote: > I think that is the website of Karl King, webmaster for the IBS. > Anyone know > for sure? > > Dell > > -----Original Message----- > From: N Sterman > > Anyone know who is responsible for the city http:// > www.bulbnrose.com/? How legit is it? > > Nan > > _______________________________________________ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat Sep 16 13:36:24 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060916103257.00c32788@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 10:36:19 -0700 Nan asked, >I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its >irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? Most Eremurus species are native to Central Asia, where they grow in a climate similar to that of the Intermountain West of the United States. As a result, they are remarkably successful in such US areas as Colorado, where they experience somewhat dry winters, spring moisture, and dry summers relieved by "monsoon" rains late in the season. In climates with wet, open winters, such as I have in western Oregon, they require extremely good drainage to survive and do not flourish. I've heard of them being grown commercially here in poly hoop houses. I have a few in the garden but they are poor specimens compared to those in Colorado or eastern Oregon. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From talkingpoints@plantsoup.com Sat Sep 16 17:41:53 2006 Message-Id: <630D0BCF-E8F6-448C-93D7-033FBBC57F0B@PlantSoup.Com> From: N Sterman Subject: Cyberose & bulbs? Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 14:41:45 -0700 Anyone know who is responsible for the city http:// www.bulbnrose.com/? How legit is it? Nan From writserv@nbnet.nb.ca Sat Sep 16 18:34:56 2006 Message-Id: From: Rand Nicholson Subject: Ferns & Such Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 19:34:53 -0300 Hello All: A question was asked of me as to whether there was a fern(s) that had a tuberous or bulbous storage system. I answered that many ferns were rhizomatous, but I doubted any had bulbs. Of course, later, I got me thinking that perhaps I answered too quickly. Anyone out there know of a tuberous, or bulbous fern? Rand In Maritime Canada From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 16 18:53:01 2006 Message-Id: <002501c6d9e2$d980a1c0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Ferns & Such Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 18:52:54 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rand Nicholson" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: [pbs] Ferns & Such > Anyone out there know of a tuberous, or bulbous fern? > Rand In Maritime Canada Nephrolepis cordifolia (Tuber sword fern) has largish, scaly tubers along the rhizome. not always underground either. Cystopteris bulbifera reproduces via little bulblets on the fronds which drop off and root. The "Mother fern" Asplenium bulbiferum does too. Robert. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 16 18:54:58 2006 Message-Id: <003201c6d9e3$1d3cb840$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Ferns & Such Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 18:54:47 -0400 I meant to include that it could be debated whether any of the "bulbs" on the ferns I mentioned are true bulbs or not. Robert. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 16 19:43:32 2006 Message-Id: <004301c6d9e9$e7f861a0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Ferns & Such Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 19:43:25 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rand Nicholson" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 6:34 PM Subject: [pbs] Ferns & Such > Anyone out there know of a tuberous, or bulbous fern? > Rand In Maritime Canada There's also Solanopteris brunei and S. bifrons that form what are taken to be tubers (actually modified stems) along the rhizome that are frequently inhabited by ants. (!) The ferns get nourishment from the debris-filled abandoned tubers. The ferns that are inhabited by the ants are said to be healthier than those without any guests. Robert. From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sat Sep 16 20:04:19 2006 Message-Id: <20060917000418.15343.qmail@web34312.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Ledebouria/Drimiopsis/etc Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 17:04:18 -0700 (PDT) Hello, I have been a fan of Ledebouria & Drimiopsis for a while now. Besides those, I am also highly interested in other non-hardy members of the family(Dipcadi, Eucomis, Massonia, Lachenalia, Resnova), and the European-Central Asian members of the family (Muscari, Bellevalia, Hyacinthella, etc). I have collected what literature is 'readily' available. And, with all my reading, I am only more confused as to what species I grow. Venters thesis may be on its way eventually and until then I suppose I'll remain confused. Most of my Ledebouria came as aff. or sp., and of course socialis. At; http://www003.upp.so-net.ne.jp/Lachenalia/lili7.html you see great pics of Ledebouria and several very different socialis 'type' plants. Macowanii is supposed to be similar to socialis but I need a good line-drawing (or photo) of a plant to see how similar or different they are. Epigeal vs hypogeal bulbs is supposed to be a factor involved, but I have some socialis that do both, and are otherwise inseparable. Species I know I have are: cooperi, crispa, floribunda, graminifolia(? graminea), hypoxoides, minima, sp "Gary Hammer'(also a floribunda?), and coriacea. Among the many possible ones are (all affinities); luteola, macowanii, ovalifolia, revoluta, and zebrina. The other half dozen are all sp's but definately not socialis. The leaves on some are spectacular. The Drimiopsis are very hard to come by. Does anyone grow any species besides maculata or kirkii/boytroides? I know at least one person who offers a few rare ones now and again. I have three clones of maculata and get a good seed set every summer. I still have not got Resnova, and no one in the US offers it from what I have seen. I am interest in trading for other species of Ledebouria and other Hyacinthaceae for that matter. Right now though my interest is in Ledebouria and acquiring some other Drimiopsis species. All the best, Aaron Floden Manhattan, KS Z5 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From adavis@ecoresource.com Sat Sep 16 20:19:41 2006 Message-Id: <20060917001941.B4C384C008@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Alani Davis" Subject: Ferns & Such Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 20:19:40 -0400 The term bulb refers to specialized leaf bases that serve as a storage structure and are specifically located above the true root structure. To my knowledge, bulbs are a monocot exclusive. Tubers on the other hand get around Like Robert said, Nephrolepis cordifolia produces tubers on its roots but as far as I know they will not propagate if separated from the plant and are primary water storage which attests to this fern's high dry tolerance (for a fern). It spreads by stolons. I can't think of any others at the moment but they are probably out there. Fleshy rhizomes tend to be more common in ferns. Cystopteris bulbifera & Asplenium bulbiferum produce adventitious shoots that develop an admittedly tuber-like ball of rhizome that would be specialized stem that in turn produces the true roots and leaves. It is technically not a tuber but rhizome. Woodwardia orientalis is another fern that does this. Alani Davis From Run007CB@aol.com Sat Sep 16 22:07:38 2006 Message-Id: <547.6a19a100.323e07de@aol.com> From: Run007CB@aol.com Subject: Fall Bulb Planting Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2006 22:07:26 EDT Hello, I'm planning on ordering some ranunculus from Van Bourgondien. Years ago I placed an order from them for the same and the bulbs I received looked like pieces of tubers. I contacted them and they sent me another order, but they were still pitiful looking. Anyway, I planted them and in the spring I had the most spectacular display, all of them huge, blooming exactly at the same time. Well, I figured I'd buy much larger tubers from the local nurseries, and also tried "Dutch Garden Bulbs," but they never bloomed at the same time or as spectacular. Maybe it was just the weather that year, who knows? Anyone else have similar experiences? Charles Edelman, Zone 10, South Texas From kellyo@wetrock.com Sun Sep 17 09:15:09 2006 Message-Id: <450CE916.5618.9F68D74B@kellyo.wetrock.com> From: "Kelly O'Neill" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 06:20:06 -0700 > Is this a low water or regular water bulb? I probably only have Hybrids doing well here. That said, They are easy and do great here for me. I think they prefer a south facing slope and a rather dry season in summer. Mine are in a clay loam, usually, with alliums. They are big spider shaped things planted very shallowly (for their size). The crowns are basically at the surface, legs a bit deeper. They are best divided (teased apart) / moved every 3 to 5 years in the driest summer time. They do not like to have their spider legs bent at the "crown" or to be out of the ground very long. I do not crowd them and I try to water and fertilize in spring (before they bloom). Most of mine are under black weed control fabric (Dewitt). They begin growing in late winter. They are moist to wet all winter here. I'd guess they do not prefer much wetness before they begin growing. I wonder if they (or some kinds) come from areas that are VERY WET during their growth season (wetland and/or snowmelt maybe?) and then dry in summer. I think they like to be fed well, though I do not do so often. I have not done well at getting seedlings to thrive and think feeding them well during their short growth season is likely the key to bulking them up. Careful with that idea, however, it might kill 'em :-). I may just need to be more patient and keep ahead of weeds better? KellyO Kelly O'Neill Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - from March thru Halloween): 2877 N 19th Street Springfield, Oregon 97477 To contact us: * Business Office for mail or by appointment only: gardens@wetrock.com * 1950 Yolanda AVE http://www.wetrock.com * Springfield, Oregon 97477 (541) 746-4444 * From msittner@mcn.org Sun Sep 17 10:15:40 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060917070258.02c592e8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Back from South Africa Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 07:08:11 -0700 Hi all, My husband and I returned from South Africa late Friday night. We had a fabulous trip enjoying the IBSA Symposium, the talks, the people, and the incredible display of flowers in a very good year. Bob and I took almost 6000 images between us. No doubt a lot of them aren't keepers, but I'll be adding some of them eventually to the wiki and will write a little about the trip when I find time. This is a general note to those of you who wrote while I was gone that I'll be going through those 500 emails I downloaded yesterday and will be responding when I can, hopefully by early in the week at the latest. Mary Sue From ton1.wijnen@planet.nl Sun Sep 17 11:26:39 2006 Message-Id: <004a01c6da6d$ac2f4fb0$0300000a@schakel> From: Ton Wijnen Subject: hymenocallisseeds Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 17:26:40 +0200 Hallo bulbfriends I have now one Hymenocallis, H. speciosa. I am very mad about this bulb. Now I was searching of there are more species. And YES, there are lots of other species. Now I have a question: Who can help me to get bulbs or seeds of these H. species?? I hope there are people who can help me, please??? Thank you very much Warmest regards Ton Wijnen Holland From talkingpoints@plantsoup.com Sun Sep 17 12:17:18 2006 Message-Id: From: N Sterman Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 09:17:13 -0700 Is there another bulb whose culture is similar? Do eremurus grow anything like the South African bulbs? On Sep 17, 2006, at 6:20 AM, Kelly O'Neill wrote: >> Is this a low water or regular water bulb? > > I probably only have Hybrids doing well here. That said, They are > easy and > do great here for me. I think they prefer a south facing slope and > a rather dry > season in summer. Mine are in a clay loam, usually, with alliums. > They are > big spider shaped things planted very shallowly (for their size). > The crowns > are basically at the surface, legs a bit deeper. They are best > divided (teased > apart) / moved every 3 to 5 years in the driest summer time. They > do not like > to have their spider legs bent at the "crown" or to be out of the > ground very > long. I do not crowd them and I try to water and fertilize in > spring (before they > bloom). Most of mine are under black weed control fabric (Dewitt). > They > begin growing in late winter. They are moist to wet all winter > here. I'd guess > they do not prefer much wetness before they begin growing. I wonder > if they > (or some kinds) come from areas that are VERY WET during their growth > season (wetland and/or snowmelt maybe?) and then dry in summer. I > think > they like to be fed well, though I do not do so often. I have not > done well at > getting seedlings to thrive and think feeding them well during > their short > growth season is likely the key to bulking them up. Careful with > that idea, > however, it might kill 'em :-). I may just need to be more patient > and keep > ahead of weeds better? KellyO > > Kelly O'Neill Wet Rock Gardens Flower Farm > U-Pick and more at the farm (open 9 to 6, Sun, Wed and Fri - > from March > thru Halloween): > 2877 N 19th Street > Springfield, Oregon 97477 > To contact us: * Business Office for mail > or by appointment only: > gardens@wetrock.com * 1950 Yolanda AVE > http://www.wetrock.com * Springfield, Oregon > 97477 > (541) 746-4444 * > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Sun Sep 17 12:34:20 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060917092759.02725e58@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Tigridia ehrenbergii Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 09:33:43 -0700 Thanks to Rafa's friend, Verónica Chavez, we have a photo of this species added to our wiki Tigridia page. Rafa has supplied some information about this species which I have added to the page. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php?pagename=Tigridia From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Sun Sep 17 14:22:03 2006 Message-Id: <450D9271.919CB7DE@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 11:22:41 -0700 Dear Angela: Eremurus do make good specimen plants. The name is derived from eremos = solitary, and oura = tall. The flower spike towers above the foliage. They need rich and well drained soil. They are hardy indeed they need frost in order to grow well. Keep dry during the coldest part of winter. The most common species grown is E. X isabellinus, also known as e. X shefordii as numerous hybrids including many names selections were raised by Sir Michael Foster who owned the garden Great Shelford in Cambridge England. These can reach over 5 feet in height and flower in early summer, and they are an outstanding addition to any garden. While some species are not as tall, some such as E. himalacius can be well over 6 feet in height. There are some 28 or so species in the genus. E x tubergenii can reach over 8 feet! This hybrid was raised by Tubergen of the Netherlands. Hope this will encourage you to grow these fine plants. Cheers, John E. Bryan Angela and Dean Offer wrote: > > I am interested in eremurus. Does anyone have a photo of a group of these? > Do they make lovely specimens? > angela > western australia > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "JamieV." > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:38 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Is eremurus high or low water? > > >N Sterman schrieb: > >> I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its > >> irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? > >> > >> Nan > >> _______________________________________________ > >> pbs mailing list > >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > >> > >> > >> > > Nan, > > > > I grow Eremurus in relatively sandy clay on a slope, as they are from > > the Steppes and desert areas of the orient, meaning a prolonged dry > > period and no chance of standing in water. I have lost a few over the > > years due to heavy Winter rain, which they do not appreciate at all! > > Simply rotted at the crown. > > > > One very inpressive bed I saw in England was a combination of roses with > > Eremurus bungeii and E. robustus hybrids. The theory was, the roses > > take up moisture so fast, that the Eremurus can't get overwatered. They > > require as much sun as possible to increase. Be carefull as the spikes > > emerge. They are prone to rot in wet conditions, such as prolonged rain > > or overhead watering. > > > > Jamie V. > > Cologne > > Germany > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun Sep 17 15:42:23 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 14:25:41 -0500 My 2 cents worth. I only grow some typical yellow flowered probably E bungei ( or is it stenophyllus)* on a slope where they have multiplied slowly over the years and put on a reliable show each spring. They take out extremes of hot and cold well and are quite dry in summer. I do want to relate the best Eremurus I have ever seen which was along the highway near Dodge City Kansas. Here a variety of colors was nearing 6 ft in height and self seeding wildly in a large patch as road side 'seed'. I had to stop the car and talk to the owners who professed no special care which essentially means even hotter and drier summers than I get here. At least some of the species are native to similar steppe environments in Central Asia. Not necessarily good drainage, but a hot dry dormant period in summer. I suspect that many of these plant experience wet springs even standing water briefly, but these are not plants of wet environments. Best Jim W. * Brent and Becky list some of their special Spring Valley hybrids which I keep meaning to order, but keep procrastinating. Has anyone tried this mix yet? http://www.brentandbeckysbulbs.com/spring/productview/index.php?sku=17-0108 They look great. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From arnold@nj.rr.com Sun Sep 17 15:50:31 2006 Message-Id: <450DA705.3000502@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 15:50:29 -0400 I can add my New Jersey two cents to the discussion of Eremurus. I planted about four different species and they all have disappeared over a three year period. They were planted on a bed of gravel to assist in drainage and I even covered them to keep them dry while dormant. I seem to remember that they thrive in Utah with cold winters and hot dry summers and there may be a commercial cut flower production operation there. . Arnold From DebbieTT@comcast.net Sun Sep 17 20:54:01 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060917174959.01bb2f78@comcast.net> From: DebbieTT Subject: Allium karataviense 'Lucky' Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 17:53:58 -0700 I grew Allium karataviense 'Lucky' this last summer. It looks a lot like the species only more purple then pink. I haven't been able to find anything out about it. It flowered along with 'Ivory Queen' . Any help would be appreciated. From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sun Sep 17 06:45:44 2006 Message-Id: <040501c6dacc$47cbf410$c5afb07c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Hyacinth vases Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 19:06:43 -0700 I have inexpensive hyacinth vases, lots and lots of them. I am in Western Australia, email me personally and I will find out the price, they are cheap. angela angelasgarden@bigpond.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Manion" To: Sent: Monday, September 11, 2006 9:08 AM Subject: [pbs] Hyacinth vases > We are holding a bulb sale next month and would like to include some > hyacinth vases along with the bulbs. Does anyone know a source for > inexpensive hyacinth vases? > > Thanks, > > John T. Manion, Curator > Bailey Arboretum > 194 Bayville Road > Lattingtown, NY 11560 > (516) 571-8020 > www.baileyarboretum.org > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Express yourself with gadgets on Windows Live Spaces > http://discoverspaces.live.com?source=hmtag1&loc=us > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sun Sep 17 06:46:32 2006 Message-Id: <040c01c6dacc$65733370$c5afb07c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 19:36:42 -0700 I am interested in eremurus. Does anyone have a photo of a group of these? Do they make lovely specimens? angela western australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "JamieV." To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:38 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Is eremurus high or low water? >N Sterman schrieb: >> I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its >> irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? >> >> Nan >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> > Nan, > > I grow Eremurus in relatively sandy clay on a slope, as they are from > the Steppes and desert areas of the orient, meaning a prolonged dry > period and no chance of standing in water. I have lost a few over the > years due to heavy Winter rain, which they do not appreciate at all! > Simply rotted at the crown. > > One very inpressive bed I saw in England was a combination of roses with > Eremurus bungeii and E. robustus hybrids. The theory was, the roses > take up moisture so fast, that the Eremurus can't get overwatered. They > require as much sun as possible to increase. Be carefull as the spikes > emerge. They are prone to rot in wet conditions, such as prolonged rain > or overhead watering. > > Jamie V. > Cologne > Germany > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From btankers@chicagobotanic.org Mon Sep 18 09:27:32 2006 Message-Id: <52857FDB394B7E45BA1F2E60D7313E2A04F06307@cbgmail.chicagobotanic.org> From: "Boyce Tankersley" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 08:27:29 -0500 Here in Chicago, Illinois, my Eremurus get watered from snow melt and spring rains. Once the temperatures rise and the soils become dry they go dormant. They are spectacular but do best in the landscape if planted in among other perennial and shrubs that soak up the rainfall from our periodic monsoons. Boyce Tankersley btankers@chicagobotanic.org -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Angela and Dean Offer Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 9:37 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Is eremurus high or low water? I am interested in eremurus. Does anyone have a photo of a group of these? Do they make lovely specimens? angela western australia ----- Original Message ----- From: "JamieV." To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, September 16, 2006 12:38 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Is eremurus high or low water? >N Sterman schrieb: >> I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its >> irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? >> >> Nan >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> >> >> > Nan, > > I grow Eremurus in relatively sandy clay on a slope, as they are from > the Steppes and desert areas of the orient, meaning a prolonged dry > period and no chance of standing in water. I have lost a few over the > years due to heavy Winter rain, which they do not appreciate at all! > Simply rotted at the crown. > > One very inpressive bed I saw in England was a combination of roses with > Eremurus bungeii and E. robustus hybrids. The theory was, the roses > take up moisture so fast, that the Eremurus can't get overwatered. They > require as much sun as possible to increase. Be carefull as the spikes > emerge. They are prone to rot in wet conditions, such as prolonged rain > or overhead watering. > > Jamie V. > Cologne > Germany > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Mon Sep 18 09:58:48 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060918064745.02b3c800@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: PBS posts Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 06:58:28 -0700 Hi, On my trip I heard from many digest members of our list about how difficult it is for them when they get the digest and people include the previous message in their replies. I try to write people privately and ask them not to do this, but am not always successfully in gaining cooperation when I do this so feel forced to remind everyone periodically please when you respond to a post, delete as much of the previous message and the list information as possible. If you are responding to an old message you may need a sentence or two as a reference, but certainly not the whole post. If you respond to a digest, please change the subject to reflect what part of the digest you are responding to as well. Cooperation with these two matters will make it easier for all of us to communicate. Thanks. Mary Sue List Administrator who knows you can't lead cats but keeps trying anyway From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Mon Sep 18 10:23:43 2006 Message-Id: <000801c6db2e$0cbefea0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 10:23:44 -0400 Eremurus don't last in my garden unless carefully protected during the summer. But given that consideration, they do well. I've seen masses of the small yellow one sold as bungei or stenophyllus in one local garden I know; but that site is on a 30 degree slope and presumably not prone to drainage problems. I've tried them in densely planted borders of other herbaceous plants, and they don't last - although they generally bloom once spectacularly before they disappear. The two I grow now - a huge pinkish one received as E. robustus and a big pale yellow one received as 'Romance' - do well in a raised bed covered with a pane of glass from early June (well before the foliage matures) until sometime in the autumn. The plant of 'Romance' is a rescue plant from another bed in the garden: it was declining there, and when I dug it the rootstock had diminished to a six inch starfish. After two years in the raised, summer-covered bed, it has increased in size dramatically. My experience suggests that under our conditions they definitely need help to get through our summers. Two other comments: Kelly O'Neill mentioned some difficulties in growing Eremurus from seed. Fresh seed germinates readily. The first year plant is a single, sharply angled leaf about two or three inches long with a root about the same size as the leaf. When the leaf dies down, you're left with a sort of little brown stick in the ground. Keep these dry during the summer (unless you're into natural selection and think you might thus get a moisture tolerant form). If most of them are dying for you, you are probably keeping them too moist during the summer. Also, for seedlings and mature plants watch out for late spring freezes. For plants which grow in the shadow of ice packed mountains, they are very intolerant of freezing temperatures once the leaves get going. John Bryan, in explaining the name Eremurus, gave the standard English dictionary derivation, solitary + tail. But for anyone exploring the culture of these plants, it's worth noting that the Greek word eremos means solitary only in a metaphoric sense; it's core meaning is wilderness, desert, wasteland - all good descriptions of the places where these plants grow. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where after a very slow start the Colchicum season is well underway. When the buds first appeared, we had a week of dull rainy and cloudy weather; when the flowers finally opened, they were some of the biggest and most richly colored I've ever seen. The tessellated sorts are glorious. From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Sun Sep 17 22:39:45 2006 Message-Id: <000801c6db51$972becb0$9d01b57c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2006 11:02:56 -0700 Many thanks for your 2 cents worth, it is this sort of information I crave for. Please let me know if anyone knows more information about the cutflower production? Thanks again for the very welcome information . Angela Offer in a wet and rainy Perth where everyone welcomes the rain! Getting ready to head south to Albany Western Australia which is my home after a fantastic two weeks in South Africa for the Clivia Conference. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Arnold Trachtenberg" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 12:50 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Is eremurus high or low water? > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Tue Sep 19 09:16:29 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: bulbine glauca Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 07:19:40 -0600 Hello, I noticed in the archives that Jane McGary tried bulbine glauca from seed. I think I have finally ID'd one of my plants as bulbine glauca. I've grown this as an annual for several years and I originally got the seed from a trade with a gentleman in New Zealand. Looking back at old seed lists it came to me as albuca or bulbinella hookeri. If I grew this in a pot and wintered it indoors would any kind of tuberous root develop? So far I've only seen tufted roots and nothing resembling any kind of storage organ. I certainly don't mind growing it as an annual however will the plant do more if I grow it in a pot? Linda Foulis Okotoks, Alberta T1S 1J6 Canada Sigh, summer if over here! We had our first frost night before last. Time to move to a warmer climate, or build a bubble over the yard! From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Tue Sep 19 09:42:37 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6dbf1$796bb160$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: bulbine glauca Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 09:42:38 -0400 Linda Foulis asked about Bulbine glauca. Linda, I don't have any experience with B. glauca. However, I'll use your post as the springboard for mentioning another species. Earlier this year I received as a pass-along plant a Bulbine which, after Google-ing some images, appears to be Bulbine frutescens. The donor said it was easily wintered as a potted house plant. I don't think Bulbine fruticosus develops anything like a bulb, although it's certainly not one of the annual or short-lived species. It's more like an Aloë. The word frutescens by the way means "becoming shrubby"; maybe I should join the search for those cast-off big plastic nursery pots! Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Bulbine fruticosus has been blooming for about a month. From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Tue Sep 19 10:03:21 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: bulbine glauca & frutescens Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 08:06:35 -0600 Jim, I came across more info on the frutescens than the glauca. Keeping it as a house plant, would that indicate that it does not need a rest period? Curious. You no doubt get much more winter sun than I do, anything over wintered that does not go dormant HAS TO be put under lights (400w and up) in order to survive our winters indoors. May I be so bold as to ask if you will submit some of your b. frutescens seed to the BX when it comes ready? I would love to try it. I am just getting ready an envelope to send to Dell, I will enclose some of the bulbine glauca seed. Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB Canada From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Tue Sep 19 10:09:58 2006 Message-Id: <000101c6dbf5$11fc84b0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: bulbine glauca & frutescens Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 10:08:22 -0400 Linda, I'm sorry but the Bulbine frutescens I have does not set seed (or has not so far). The flowers fall off cleanly as they wither. I'll be glad to send you a plant or cutting or whatever your import regulations will allow. Respond to me privately with the details. Jim McKenney From msittner@mcn.org Tue Sep 19 10:41:17 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060919071604.028f0ea8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbine Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 07:40:49 -0700 Dear Linda, There are a lot of Bulbine species so I think it would be really challenging to know for sure the identity of your plant. There are Australian species as well as South African species. Some of them are bulbous and some of them are not. Going to South African is good for making you lose your confidence about identifying plants because there are just so many that look alike and because they have so many species of a lot of genera. You may see something and think you know what it is only to search your books and find out you didn't check out the margins of the leaves or looked at the bracts or the corms or got your hand lens out to figure out whether the filaments curve over the ovary or wrap around backwards or are 5 mm or 7 mm. I was with experts and even they were puzzled at times. I finally started referring to the white Ornithogalums as DWOs after we struggled with figuring out the difference between O. thrysoides and O. conicum (the inner stamens with winged expansions in the lower half that are strongly eared above and curved inward over the ovary versus the inner stamens ovate or expanded below but then with the lower expansion squared above and not curved inward over the ovary.) I'd be happy to share some close ups of some of the pictures we took of these plants if anyone can figure out what this means. Maybe pointing your dna meter would be easier after all. But I digress. Cameron McMaster has a whole lot of Bulbine pictures on his CD but I haven't added them to the wiki as I'm not sure which qualify for our group. Some are annuals, some are perennials, and some are geophytes. I have grown an annual Australian one that was identified as B. semi-barbata I think. It produced hundreds of seeds and was very easy, but I think I finally stopped growing it. I think it might have lived longer than a year with care, but I can't remember. And I have grown B. bulbosa which is also Australian, but a geophyte and is now dormant and I'm not sure if it is supposed to be. I never got around to adding it to the wiki but it should qualify and I grow Bulbine frutescens which came when someone ripped out a piece to give me which as Jim points out is an easy way to propagate. In California it spreads rather aggressively I'm afraid. We saw lots and lots of Bulbines on our trip to South Africa and we photographed many of them, but didn't feel confident of IDs of most of them. There is one called B. torta with nice curly linear leaves that is geophytic and if any of our pictures of it as wiki worthy I'll add one. Mary Sue From brent.hine@ubc.ca Tue Sep 19 10:50:22 2006 Message-Id: <451003CE.6060908@ubc.ca> From: "Brent A. Hine" Subject: Bulbine Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 07:50:54 -0700 Just chiming in here, but Bulbine semibarbata has officially become a weed for me. I planted a half dozen plants three years ago. Since then it has popped up 75 feet away and formed a large colony. Unless we start having colder (ca. -10c/14F & lower) winters again, I don't see it going away soon. It's very cute, but as usual, I'd love to be able to grow the bigger species. Brent Hine Vancouver, BC Zone 7b From talkingpoints@plantsoup.com Tue Sep 19 11:09:30 2006 Message-Id: <2E3A523B-733E-4DD2-8A54-8B5FED341CCA@PlantSoup.Com> From: N Sterman Subject: Bulbine Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 08:09:24 -0700 We grow Bulbine frutescens as a groundcover here in Southern California. I have two varieties (at least that is how they are referred to here), one is 1-2' tall with yellow flowers and the second a dwarf (only about 10" tall) with tangerine orange flowers. Both colonize by underground stems. I have to whack them back every so often or those stems get really elongated and woody. If you want more detailed information, I suggest you visit the website of San Marcos Growers, www.smgrowers.com and search for bulbine. Just to give you an idea of how tough these plants are, the yellow ones I have came from a garden where a month before I visited, the gardener thinned hers out out and stashed the extras in a paper grocery bag. When I asked about the ones still in the ground, she offered me the bag full. It took me another month to plant them and they never missed a beat.... I also grow Bulbine latifolia (syn. natalensis) in a pot but that does not seem to spread and I don't know whether it has any underground storage structures. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Tue Sep 19 19:43:18 2006 Message-Id: <00c201c6dc45$63ebf4e0$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Lycoris aurea Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 18:43:18 -0500 Hi Gang, First, let me claim credit for often hitting the wrong button, or being in a hurry, etc. I think I've mailed personal emails to several lists this year. Also, I apolgize. Second, what can you all tell me about Lycoris aurea and seed setting? I have 3 plants; I think from at least 2 different sources. They all bloom now or perhaps a week later. I've never tried to set seed on them, but wonder if the various clones can set seed. I recall that L. radiata that grows in this area of Texas is completely sterile. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Temperatures below 65 F at nights now, perhaps 2 months of this will entice the Crinum bulbispermum Jumbos to rebloom. C. x 'Hannibal's Dwarf' was in bloom last Saturday in Vidor, TX (September 16). From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Tue Sep 19 19:50:14 2006 Message-Id: <000401c6dc46$58ef3150$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Lycoris aurea Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 19:50:11 -0400 Joe, isn't the commercial stock sold as Lycoris aurea usually Lycoris traubii? Where did you get your plants? Jim McKenney From tony@plantdelights.com Tue Sep 19 20:41:38 2006 Message-Id: <45108E47.7040909@plantdelights.com> From: Tony Avent Subject: Lycoris aurea Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2006 20:41:43 -0400 Joe: There are some true L. aurea coming from China that are reliably winter hardy, at least here in Zone 7b. True L. aurea is very easy to recognize since the flower scape emerges with a small piece of the leaf on both sides of the scape base. Our plants are just finishing, but they are without doubt one of the most stunning species that we have ever grown. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent Joe Shaw wrote: > Hi Gang, > > First, let me claim credit for often hitting the wrong button, or being in a > hurry, etc. I think I've mailed personal emails to several lists this year. > Also, I apolgize. > > Second, what can you all tell me about Lycoris aurea and seed setting? I > have 3 plants; I think from at least 2 different sources. They all bloom > now or perhaps a week later. > > I've never tried to set seed on them, but wonder if the various clones can > set seed. I recall that L. radiata that grows in this area of Texas is > completely sterile. > > > > Cordially, > > Joe > Conroe, TX > Temperatures below 65 F at nights now, perhaps 2 months of this will entice > the Crinum bulbispermum Jumbos to rebloom. C. x 'Hannibal's Dwarf' was in > bloom last Saturday in Vidor, TX (September 16). > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > From plantlady@beautifulblooms.ab.ca Wed Sep 20 09:11:45 2006 Message-Id: From: "Linda Foulis" Subject: Bulbine Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 07:14:57 -0600 Thank you Mary Sue, Well that blows my theory out of the water, ha ha. And I was so sure! My bulbine is still alive outside, frost didn't get the front rock garden, yet. I will see if I can get better pictures and post them on my site for all to ponder. Another thing to be considered is how different the growing conditions are. Even though we do get the heat in the summer we always cool off at night being this close to the mountains. This must affect the growth somehow. I have done nothing to try to match it's natural growing conditions, mostly because I had no clue what it was. I will label it as bulbine sp. ? possibly glauca for now. Linda Foulis Okotoks, AB From bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Wed Sep 20 09:32:01 2006 Message-Id: <451142BF.7080704@bulbmeister.com> From: Kelly Irvin Subject: Lycoris aurea Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 08:31:43 -0500 Joe: I only have Lycoris aurea var. aurea and L. aurea var. surgens. The former sets seed. The latter has been sterile to this point. The latter is very vigorous; larger leaf and taller stalk. The former is finishing up on bloom and surgens is just now sending up stalks. I protect my aurea collection with plastic cover and minimal heat to keep temperatures from getting too much below freezing. I've seen surgens tolerate temperatures well below 20°F, but there was no significant frost, either. This occurred in a covered house where the pilot went out on the heater. The leaves just can't handle the frost, in my opinion. Unfortunately, in the open environment, sub-freezing weather and frost seem to go hand-in-hand. Mr. Kelly M. Irvin The Bulbmeister 10846 Hodge Ln Gravette, AR 72736 479-366-4968 USDA Cold Hardiness Zone 6b E-mail: mailto:bulbmeister@bulbmeister.com Website: http://www.bulbmeister.com/ Forum: http://www.bulbmeister.com/forum/ Joe Shaw wrote: > Second, what can you all tell me about Lycoris aurea and seed setting?... From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed Sep 20 10:05:39 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Lycoris aurea Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 09:05:35 -0500 Dear Joe and all; Lycoris aurea is one of the most mis - id'ed of all Lycoris in the commercial trade. The true species is readily identified by its large size (biggest in the genus) and succulent foliage. It is also frost sensitive so depending on a given year's temperature range the foliage may be so damaged in cold years that it won't bloom. It is also unusual in that there are a variety of fairly common 'cytoraces'. These are essentially similar looking plants that vary in the chromosome number and thus fertility. The common 2N number is probably 12, but various cytoraces have 12, 13, 14, 15, or 16 chromosomes each. There may be others, too. These can be distinguished with some difficulty and each varies in fertility with odd numbered races being considerably less fertile, than even numbered races. Generally, L. aurea produces fertile seed, but with these restrictions and complexity. L. traubii is often confused with this species, but L. traubii is readily distinguished by its much smaller size (leaves 1/3 the size of L. aurea); its limited distribution in Taiwan and southern Japan, and the fact that at bloom there is no trace of leaf bases at the base of the flower talk as there is in L. aurea. Since there are a number of yellow flowered Lycoris, these may all be ID'ed as L. aurea including L. traubii, L. chinensis, L. caldwellii and possibly others. People not familiar ith the range of Lycoris assume that all yellow flowered must be AUREA as th name suggests. Given all this, the true L. aurea is not that common in cultivation and suited to only to mild climate gardens. In the past most Lycoris identified as L. aurea have come from Japan where L. aurea is not native. Now the true L. aurea is being imported from from China where it is native (also "Indochina" and south). But as Tony says, it is a beauty. Best Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From ang.por@alice.it Wed Sep 20 15:29:47 2006 Message-Id: <002501c6dceb$1ccdc330$0e4b0657@angelo1f9656d7> From: "Angelo Porcelli" Subject: Lycoris squamigera setting seeds Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 21:29:37 +0200 Speaking on Lycoris setting seeds, I am getting some seeds on Lycoris squamigera, yes squamigera no mistake. The first pod has ripend today with two viable seeds and further pods seems to have at leat one seed each. I followed this article, http://www.bulbnrose.com/Geophyte/Lycoris_squamigera.html just to play indeed, not that I was so concerned and I pollinated them with Lycoris sprengeri, which was blooming in the same days. Now what to do with these seeds? Angelo Porcelli South of Italy, mediterranean climate zone 9b ... where Lycoris are thought do don't grow ;-) From coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au Wed Sep 20 16:53:48 2006 Message-Id: <004f01c6dcf6$db6df5c0$4c0ca4cb@geoff2abba5c65> From: "Coffee Camp" Subject: Bulbine & Bulbinella Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 06:53:40 +1000 I'd like to share an informative reply I received from the Botanic Gardens, Sydney to my query regarding Bulbinella latifolia. I recently bought seed of Bulbine latifolia from South Africa. Australian Quarantine (AQIS) seized the consignment as "Bulbinella latifolia has been assessed as a weed species & is not permitted into Australia.' Um, derrrr. But whilst sorting out AQIS's confusion to have my seeds released, I found that another government dept. was singing the praises of a weed....but then again: -----Original Message----- From: Coffee Camp [mailto:coffeecamp@optusnet.com.au] Sent: Tuesday, 12 September 2006 6:06 AM To: Plant Information Subject: Bulbinella latifolia (B. floribunda) Hi, I'm surprised that you, as a Botanical Garden, featured Bulbinella latifolia, formerly called B. floribunda, as Plant of the Week on 18th July, 2003 and have it growing when I have had seeds of it from South Africa confiscated by AQIS as 'The plant/seed has been assessed as a weed and entry is prohibited by legislation.' Regards, Geoffrey Barnier Coffee Camp NSW Dear Mr Barnier, Thank you for your email of 12 September about Bulbinella latifolia. The Mount Tomah Botanic Garden is the cool climate garden of Botanic Gardens Trust, Sydney. As part of the Botanic Gardens Trust we take assessment of plant material for weediness and the risks that weedy material may pose to our environment seriously. Plant material is kept in our collections for a number of scientific, educational and horticultural display reasons. As part of our curating the plant collections in the botanic garden all plant material is monitored for weediness. Where a species exhibits weedy habit we review the need to keep the taxon through our curation system and either implement controls where the plant is needed for scientific research or remove it from the collections if it poses an environmental risk. Interestingly it is the listing of species as a local, regional or national noxious weed which requires its destruction and removal rather than its listing as a prohibited import. Bulbinella latifolia is not listed as a weed in Australia.The AQIS prohibited import list acts as a warning to growers to monitor the species and put appropriate controls in place where needed, rather than precluding people from continuing to grow that species in Australia. However we do take the listing of any species as a prohibited import seriously and once we become aware it is a prohibited import, we use the Botanic Gardens Trust curation process to increase the level of monitoring of that taxon. The Bulbinella latifolia material we hold in our living collection was acquired in 1989. It has not exhibited any weedy behaviour in the collection at Mount Tomah to date. Even so we are not transferring it to other agencies or making the plant available for other users. Also we are monitoring its behaviour closely. Botanic Gardens are also permitted to hold plants of declared weed risk where the threat can be managed and displaying the plant to the public is assessed as having educational or scientific value. This species is of scientific interest because of its Gondwanic relationship as well being a close relative to other Australian species. I have also made enquiries with the Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries and after considering all the issues we have decided to continue growing and monitoring this species. Many thanks for raising the matter. Managing Curator Mount Tomah Botanic Garden Bells Line of Road Mount Tomah NSW 2758 61 2 4567 3013 Cool Climate Garden of the Botanic Gardens Trust Part of the Department of Environment and Conservation Cheers, Geoff Spring sunshine & 26C in Subtropical NSW From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Sep 20 19:51:13 2006 Message-Id: <021001c6dd0f$a9776560$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Lycoris aurea/traubii Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 18:51:13 -0500 Hi Gang, Thanks for the information about yellow Lycoris types. I think I must have L. traubii based upon the input--I only assumed I had L. aurea based upon incomplete research. So, does anyone have experience with L. traubii setting seed? Perhaps I'll know in a few weeks, but I wonder if anyone has experience with setting seed on this plant. Two clusters have bloomed (can't remember where I got them), and another cluster is coming into bloom. I've saved pollen from the earlier blooms. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX Nights still around 65 F, not too warm. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Wed Sep 20 20:03:38 2006 Message-Id: <023901c6dd11$65618430$6501a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum scabrum Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 19:03:38 -0500 Hi Gang, I've tried to figure out "what the heck" C. scabrum is and "where it comes from." I've run across a few dead ends (Brazil, Ceylon, etc.). Please jump in if you understand C. scabrum, or just have ideas about it. C. scabrum is a lovely plant and a true garden workhorse, but I'm not sure "what is" and "what is not" C. scabrum. Perhaps all the C. scabrum types are variations on a theme but not quite the same thing. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Nights cooler of late, under 70 F for sure. Crinum bulbispermum Jumbo hybrids will rebloom in a while if there is no killing frost in the next 2-3 months. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Wed Sep 20 21:38:09 2006 Message-Id: <000301c6dd1e$96f65040$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Scent in Colchicum Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 21:38:06 -0400 Few things will get a plant into this garden as quickly as good scent; I'm always on the lookout for well scented plants. I've seen some references to pleasant scents in some Colchicum, but when I try the plants in question I don't get much. For instance, some have described some forms of Colchicum bivonae and its hybrids as well scented, but I have yet to come across a pleasantly scented one. But this week I was pleasantly surprised to discover that little Colchicum parlatoris (the pale flowers are about the size of a quarter, if that) is very agreeably scented. The scent reminds me of that of saffron crocus with maybe an undertone of musk: very nice and there is plenty of it! I don't think anyone would nominate Colchicum parlatoris as one of the more prepossessing members of the genus on the basis of its appearance, so this delicious scent really is a saving grace. Can anyone suggest other species which are well scented? Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I uncovered the Eremurus-Colchicum-Crocus end of the raised bulb bed today in the hope that it will rain soon. From arnold@nj.rr.com Wed Sep 20 21:42:37 2006 Message-Id: <4511EE0C.90207@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Scent in Colchicum Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 21:42:36 -0400 Jim: I have about ten species in flower at the moment , but haven't thought about giving any of them a sniff. Will give it a try tomorrow if I get home in daylight. Arnold New Jersey From msittner@mcn.org Thu Sep 21 02:03:56 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060920113354.02704028@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: IBSA Bulb Symposium and Trip to South Africa Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 22:57:23 -0700 I've had numerous private requests to write about our trip so am responding to those. There are a number of members of our list who also visited South Africa for either the IBSA symposium and the Clivia conference and they are invited to share their experiences too. I plan to write this in 4 parts: two on the IBSA Symposium, one on Middlepos, and last on the rest of our trip. I'm not sure how quickly I'll get this done. The IBSA symposium was five days. We arrived Sunday afternoon and that first day was spent figuring out our accommodation and greeting old friends and making new ones. Some of us had already had a chance to do that on Saturday when we attended the monthly IBSA meeting in Cape Town. I've always been envious when I read the secretary's report of the monthly meeting when they have a program and a plant display when members bring in plants they are growing that are in bloom. At last we got to go to one of them. Rod Saunders showed slides of Middlepos in a good year to get those of us who were planning to go there as a group in the anticipation mode. I'm seen many of Rod's slide shows in the past and they are first rate and this was not an exception. There was a break for goodies and then Alan Horstmann talked about the plants on display. There were so many beautiful plants that members were growing and had brought to show. This was marvelous and I hope the IBSA South African members truly appreciate how lucky they are that Alan does this for them as he picks up plants and gives you lots of background information about them such as where they grow, how they are pollinated, and challenges they all have growing them. For instance this day he talked about Gladiolus caryophyllaceus which has become a weed in Western Australia, but southwestern Cape members have difficulty keeping in cultivation. Seed germinates, but plants dwindle. Even if they start seed collected from Australia this happens. So the person who brought the plant was commended and there was a discussion of what it might need that they weren't able to provide. There was also a plant that looked like Babiana rubrocyanea to me and Alan told us that it was really Babiana regia which is set to be sunk into Babiana stricta as Babiana stricta var. regia. We later saw this plant in the wild so I'll be adding pictures to the wiki eventually and you will see how similar they are. And he commented on the glorious form of Moraea tulbaghensis that was on display. See http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesFour#tulbaghensis to see this gold flower with lovely blue markings. On Monday the talks started. There were two days of talks with two nightly programs that some of us attended as well. I'll just briefly tell you about the talks in no particular order. This time there were only two talks about specific genera, one on Geophytic Pelargoniums given with great flair by Robin Jangle who talked about Gethyllis at the last Symposium and the other on Moraeas given by our own Bob Werra who as he said in his talk is Mad about Moraeas. Bob gave us a nice hand written handout about the species he has grown separating them by whether they bloom for only a day or for a few days or are the "peacock" varieties with comments and giving his rating for beauty, ease, and whether they produce cormlets and seeds. There were a couple of talks that focused on breeding. Andy Hackland is breeding Ornithogalum, Robyn McKenzie is working on Eucomis, and John Pilbeam & Anthony Hamilton from the UK, Gladiolus. I just put some pictures on the wiki of Ornithogalum maculatum that we saw in Andy's greenhouses growing in mass and there are pictures of some of his hybrids on the Ornithogalum wiki page from our last trip too. (And while I was at it I added some Ornithogalum maculatum we saw in Namaqualand too. I have poor luck with Ornithogalums, but seeing this one in mass really makes you want it!) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/index.php/Ornithogalum Aart van Voorst from the Netherlands who is a horticulturalist in his day job is trying to introduce polyploidy in Haemanthus breeding as a hobby. We were all impressed with his slide where he showed how he had made sure that no insect was going to pollinate the Haemanthus he was working on. For those of you unfamiliar with Haemanthus, he had his work cut out for him as each flowering stalk has a lot of flowers. There were talks on cultivation. Gordon Summerfield gave a brief talk on his discovery that the ph of his potting soil was very important as some species needed acid soil. Others grow in limey soil and this illustrated the need to know more about where the plants come from. Peter Knippels from the Netherlands who had written a book about how he grew South African bulbs indoors a number of years ago now told us the techniques he was using for growing the bulbs outdoors in spite of his climate and finding he could do it. I might add he mulches heavily and grows a lot of summer rainfall species that are hardier than some of the winter rainfall ones. But it still shows that it is worth trying some things you think might not be possible. David Victor from our list talked about his experiences growing bulbs in the UK. He mostly grows in greenhouses and focused on Pelargoniums, but showed us some pictures of other things including some Irids he announced he had given away as he wants to concentrate on Amaryllids. I talked a little about how I grow South African bulbs in California and gave a slide show of bulbs blooming in my garden by month. Liesel van der Walt gave a very interesting talk on bulbs for display in the garden. She works at Kirstenbosch and is in charge of making the garden look good for visitors year round. She sometimes uses containers that can be placed attractively in the ground or otherwise and also will plant more than one kind of plant in an area so that one will take over when the other is finished. We learned about the indigenous bulbs that are used in traditional medicine and therefore in danger of being lost in the wild when Cameron McMaster presented a program from Tony Dold and then we learned from Ismail Ebrahim how they are keeping track of the status of bulbs and how many of them that were abundant at one time are sadly now red listed or threatened. Luise Ehrich from Germany presented a paper of research she has done on trying to turn around some bulbs so they can be sold in Germany during the dark and gloomy months. The plants she was working with were Babiana hybrids, Freesia laxa, Sparaxis hybrids, Tritonia deusta, and Tritonia securigera. She would get them from South Africa when they were dormant and then put them into storage and use temperature to hold them and bring them into bloom for the market in September to January. This wasn't about adding them permanently to your garden, but just a nice pot plant to bring home and admire and throw out afterwards. What struck me about her talk was how little some of us who are eager to grow bulbs know about plant physiology. John Manning gave a lecture on the pollination biology of South African Iridaceae. There are a huge number of genera in this family found in South Africa and a lot of them have quite a number of species as well. He talked about how some pollinators are attracted by the pollen and some by the nectar. The Irids are pollinated by long tongued flies, beetles, moths, butterflies, birds, and wasps. Some plants have only one kind of pollinator and others more than one. Looking at the flower you may be able to predict what will pollinate it. And when the species bloom may also be determined by what pollinates them as some pollinators will not be out until the temperatures are warmer. Eric Harley gave a talk on how DNA analysis is influencing our knowledge of taxonomy and evolution. To Eric's credit he is able to present complex information that some of us may not understand clearly. But there still were comments from a number of delegates that they didn't totally understand. I felt like it was a good start. Maybe if his paper is published in the Bulletin a second reading will get me farther. Finally Cameron McMaster showed pictures of his botanical tours of the Eastern Cape so we got to see Tony Avent and Ellen Hornig in pictures and see where they went on their adventures. One night there was wine tasting and a dinner at a winery, one night there was a barbecue for all the meat lovers and the other two nights there were programs. Harold Koopwitz showed pictures and gave an amusing talk about his adventures plant collecting in Crete and Alan Horstmann presented a multimedia slide show another night. This show was a series of close ups of the inner markings of some gorgeous bulbs he grows. He showed different forms of the same species which is so valuable since we all assume that a species looks just like the picture in our book and in nature there is great variability. In my next post I'll write about the days in the field, but I want to add some pictures to the wiki first. Mary Sue From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Thu Sep 21 07:34:51 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6dd71$f042cb30$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: IBSA Bulb Symposium and Trip to South Africa Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:34:45 -0400 Dear Mary Sue, It sounds as if you had a wonderful time. Please write more and post as many pictures as you can! Jim From brent.hine@ubc.ca Thu Sep 21 10:35:09 2006 Message-Id: <4512A342.3080407@ubc.ca> From: "Brent A. Hine" Subject: IBSA Bulb Symposium and Trip to South Africa Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 07:35:46 -0700 Hear hear, Mary Sue, more please! Brent Hine From johnbryan@worldnet.att.net Thu Sep 21 12:30:41 2006 Message-Id: <4512BDFD.3E788E04@worldnet.att.net> From: John Bryan Subject: Crinum scabrum Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 09:29:49 -0700 Dear Joe: Crinum scabrum = C. zeylanicum, from tropical Asia and E. Africa. Cheers, John E. Bryan Joe Shaw wrote: > > Hi Gang, > > I've tried to figure out "what the heck" C. scabrum is and "where it comes > from." > > I've run across a few dead ends (Brazil, Ceylon, etc.). Please jump in if > you understand C. scabrum, or just have ideas about it. > > C. scabrum is a lovely plant and a true garden workhorse, but I'm not sure > "what is" and "what is not" C. scabrum. Perhaps all the C. scabrum types > are variations on a theme but not quite the same thing. > > Cordially, > > Joe > Conroe, TX > Nights cooler of late, under 70 F for sure. Crinum bulbispermum Jumbo > hybrids will rebloom in a while if there is no killing frost in the next 2-3 > months. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From dells@voicenet.com Thu Sep 21 16:29:37 2006 Message-Id: From: Dell Sherk Subject: Pacific BX 127 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 16:29:23 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 127" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: .... Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: Dell Sherk 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. New Hope, PA, 18938 USA Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations. PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Angelo Porcelli: SEED: 1. Crocus thomasii 2. Gladiolus tristis 3. Colchicum cupanii 4. Iris bicapitata 5. Iris sicula 6. Ferraria crispa 7. Romulea bulbicodium From Fred Biasella: 8. Good-sized offsets of Allium giganteum? From Rogan Roth: 9. Cormlets of Bessera elegans From Dell Sherk: 10. Seed of Cyclamen persicum (florist's cv), red, selfed 11. Seed of Zephyranthes mixed, these are from communal pots containing at least 30 species and hybrids and are open pollinated. 12. Seed of Scadoxus puniceus Thank you Angelo, Fred, and Rogan !! Best wishes, Dell --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX From crinum@libero.it Thu Sep 21 16:36:08 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Grossi" Subject: Pacific BX 127 Date: Thu, 21 Sep 2006 22:36:06 +0200 Thanks to Dell too. ---------- Initial Header ----------- From : pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org To : Antennaria@aol.com, numida@aol.com, pbs@lists.ibiblio.org, Pat.Colville@JHResearchUSA.com, masterson4@cox.net, macfarla@almaden.ibm.com, mysticgardn@yahoo.com,"Cathy Craig" CathyCraigEA@hotmail.com Cc : Date : Thu, 21 Sep 2006 16:29:23 -0400 Subject : [pbs] Pacific BX 127 > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by people from all over the > world, to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please > email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 127" in the subject > line. > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify > quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address too, in > case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first > served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included > with them, a statement of how much money (cash, check, or Paypal to > ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS > treasurer to defray our costs for packing and first-class postage. Some of > you are members of the online PBS discussion forum but are not members of > the Pacific Bulb Society. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS OF > THE PBS. Consider joining the PBS so that you can take advantage of future > offers such as this. Go to our website: .... > Or contact me at dells@voicenet.com . If you would like to donate seeds or > bulbs/corms to the PBS, please send CLEAN, clearly labeled material to: > > Dell Sherk > 6832 Phillips Mill Rd. > New Hope, PA, 18938 > USA > > Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations. > > PLEASE NOTE: I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > >From Angelo Porcelli: > > SEED: > > 1. Crocus thomasii > 2. Gladiolus tristis > 3. Colchicum cupanii > 4. Iris bicapitata > 5. Iris sicula > 6. Ferraria crispa > 7. Romulea bulbicodium > > >From Fred Biasella: > > 8. Good-sized offsets of Allium giganteum? > > >From Rogan Roth: > > 9. Cormlets of Bessera elegans > > >From Dell Sherk: > > 10. Seed of Cyclamen persicum (florist's cv), red, selfed > 11. Seed of Zephyranthes mixed, these are from communal pots containing at > least 30 species and hybrids and are open pollinated. > 12. Seed of Scadoxus puniceus > > Thank you Angelo, Fred, and Rogan !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > --Dell Sherk, Director, Pacific BX > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > Alberto Grossi Italy From totototo@telus.net Fri Sep 22 15:01:13 2006 Message-Id: <20060922190101.8D16VQUH2X@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> From: totototo@telus.net Subject: South African Bulbs Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 11:57:59 -0700 The September 2006 issue of the Bulletin of the Alpine Garden Society is devoted to South African plants, with a significant emphasis on the geophytic flora. Lots of good photographs. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate on beautiful Vancouver Island From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri Sep 22 19:41:08 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060922163807.00c4ab48@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Fragrance in colchicums Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 16:42:19 -0700 Jim McKenney's note about fragrant colchicums led me to go around sniffing them this morning. Some had no noticeable fragrance. C. bivonae and most of its many hybrids have a faint fragrance that reminds me of lemon trees. The most fragrant was the hybrid 'Dick Trotter', which has a sweet scent similar to Ivory bath soap. Interestingly, the commercial form of C. x agrippinum had no scent I could detect, but the form I grow that was found in an old Portland garden is honey-scented. C. variegatum, one of the parents of this natural hybrid, had no fragrance (but magnificent bloom after our hot summer). C. speciosum is almost unscented, so the big hybrids must get their fragrance from their C. bivonae ancestry. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From angelasgarden@bigpond.com Fri Sep 22 21:45:38 2006 Message-Id: <005701c6df37$d481f5c0$9c01e63c@angelaslaptop> From: "Angela and Dean Offer" Subject: South African Bulbs Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 10:43:31 -0700 Does it include clivia? Cheers Angela ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: [pbs] South African Bulbs > The September 2006 issue of the Bulletin of the Alpine Garden Society > is devoted to South African plants, with a significant emphasis on > the geophytic flora. > > Lots of good photographs. > > > > -- > Rodger Whitlock > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate > > on beautiful Vancouver Island > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From arnold@nj.rr.com Sat Sep 23 15:29:37 2006 Message-Id: <45158B20.8070401@nj.rr.com> From: Arnold Trachtenberg Subject: Colchicum scent Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 15:29:36 -0400 I finally got the chance to get down and sniff a couple of the Colchicums. The only one with any scent was Autumn Herald. It was a scent reminiscent of violets. Arnold NJ From norwesgard@earthlink.net Sat Sep 23 16:25:36 2006 Message-Id: From: Mary Gutierrez Subject: Mary's website and S. African bulbs Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 13:19:58 -0700 Hi -- I went to the IBSA Symposium, and recently posted the photos I took on my website. If you are interested in taking a look, the website is http://www.northwestgardennews.com Click on the navigation button called "New! Mary Gutierrez in South Africa" You can skip my rambling prologue by clicking the the "JUMP TO....etc.," link when you get there and you'll go right to the photos section. Mary Sue kindly helped me identify some of the plant photos that I didn't make notes on. If you have any ideas about the remaining unidentified plants, I'd sure appreciate your thoughts. There are a couple of orchids that I don't know. Also, is it Moraea comptonii, or Homeria comptonii? I've seen photos of this plant under both names... I have it listed under Moraea on my website. My friend Yolanda and I are looking into organizing a tour to SA for next November with Cameron McMaster. We don't have the itinerary sorted out yet, but if any of you would like information on that, I'll have it on my website in the near future. Mary Gutierrez Seattle Zone 8 and missing the sun already! From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 23 17:35:28 2006 Message-Id: <001201c6df58$33cc4920$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 16:35:31 -0500 Hi Gang, A. belladonna is a lovely plant when it does well, blooming in perfusion sometimes. When growing up, it was a commonly found plant, especially at older homes and among citrus groves in the greater Los Angelas, CA area. It grows OK here along the Gulf Coast, but never blooms for me or my friends. So, what is the secret? Does it require a dry summer, or a cooler summer? I seem to recall it is from the Southwest Cape area but it doesn't mind year round rain if it has good drainage, at least it does not rot or decline. But, it sure doesn't bloom. Maybe there are forms that are more tolerant of the the Gulf Coast? Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX Light rain forecast for the evening, maybe a few showers tomorrow. About 90 F today (32 C). The yellow Lycoris (L. traubii I guess) continues to bloom and the flowers have good staying power. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 23 17:42:23 2006 Message-Id: <001d01c6df59$2ac1b8a0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Zephyranthes atamasco, Z. candida Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 16:42:25 -0500 Hi Gang, Is there a good way to differentiate between these 2 species (Z. atamasco and Z. candida). I seem to remember Z. atamasco being a largish plant, and Z. candida being half the size. I'm curious because I have gotten Z. atamasco (supposedly) from a friend in a swap. When the seeds grew out the plants seemed identical to Z. candida, and the flowers too--at least the seem identical to what I think is Z. candida. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 23 17:51:03 2006 Message-Id: <001f01c6df5a$60b82790$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum x 'Gulf Pride' Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 16:51:00 -0500 Hi Gang, I received a Crinum about 2 years ago in an email swap. It has foliage reminiscent of C. x herbertii, and the flower could be considered C. x herbertii-like. My plant has blooms that are a bit less trumpet-shaped/pendant than typical C. x herbertii, and more flat and open, like C. x digweedii. The plant was send under the name 'Gulf Pride'. When I look up Crinum x 'Gulf Pride' I do find a variety of blooms that seem similar to my plant, but not exactly similar (but Web photos can portray plants inexactly). The main characteristic that all the photos (or descriptions) share is the paleness of the pink stripe (it was described somewhere as "pastel peppermint pink"). One report claimed that 'Gulf Pride' is a very old hybrid, from the early 1800s. The special part is that my 'Gulf Pride' rebloomed last week, something that most C. x herbertii just don't do. It is a happy plant and is making some offsets, but susceptible to the grasshoppers (eastern lubber grasshopper). The bloom was a pleasant surprise and welcome in this period when not so many Crinum are blooming. I'll feed it and water it, and see if it reblooms again next September. If you have information about Crinum x 'Gulf Pride', please let me know. Cordially, Joe Conroe, TX From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Sat Sep 23 17:51:58 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6df5a$7b6ba260$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Zephyranthes atamasco, Z. candida Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 17:51:52 -0400 Joe, one easy way to distinguish the two is season of bloom: Zephyranthes atamasco blooms in March-April; Z. candida blooms in late summer. At least that's what they do here in Maryland. The flowers of Z. atamasco are typically much bigger than those of Z. candida, too. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where I'm busy trying to photograph as much of the colchicum collection as possible. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 23 19:20:58 2006 Message-Id: <001001c6df66$eaf104c0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinum x 'Gulf Pride' Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 19:20:52 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 5:51 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinum x 'Gulf Pride' > The special part is that my 'Gulf Pride' rebloomed last week, something that > most C. x herbertii just don't do. It is a happy plant and is making some > offsets, but susceptible to the grasshoppers (eastern lubber grasshopper). > Joe Joe~ My xherbertii-type favored me with a single late scape this month too. http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l85/raydio99/Crinum/MVC-434F.jpg It looks similar to 'Gulf Pride', but may have a bit more color to it. Robert. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sat Sep 23 19:56:56 2006 Message-Id: <001c01c6df6b$f0d407c0$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Crinum scabrum Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 19:56:50 -0400 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Shaw" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 8:03 PM Subject: [pbs] Crinum scabrum > I've run across a few dead ends (Brazil, Ceylon, etc.). Please jump in if > you understand C. scabrum, or just have ideas about it. > Joe I wish I knew more. There is plenty of discussion that scabrum is zeylanicum or a ssp or something thereof. I wouldn't be at all surprised to find it so and I'll tell you one reason: My "scabrum" bulbs are extremely sensitive to coolness in spring. The dormant, sparsely-rooted bulbs would start to grow leaves and form roots if the temperatures remained warm, relatively, but would fall back if they were exposed to subsequent cool. I started my bulbs indoors and would take them outdoors if it was warm, say 70F or higher, bringing them in at evening if nights were cool. If I left them out (forgot to bring them in?) and the temps fell below 60F, the newly emerging leaves would pale and wither within a few days. Root production was delayed as well. I understand that zeylanicum is very cold sensitive and can see that "scabrum" (if there *is* a difference) is too. I haven't yet taken my bulbs in for winter but have put them by the house amid slate flooring and brick wall warmed during the day, and they haven't reacted to the few nights below 60F that we have had thusfar. Understandable. I will be in no rush to get them started next spring now that I undersatnd a bit more about them, whatever they are. One thing that has caused me to continue thinking that zeylanicum is different from scabrum is that the web-posted pictures of zeylanicum oftentimes share a certain "look" that differs from the ones purported to be scabrum. (Not that there are a lot of pictures of these two.) I couldn't tell you clearly what the difference is, and I wish I could be more specific. Aside: Along the ID line, I wish that there were more full-portrait depictions of not only these two plants, but all plants in general. The flower isn't the only thing about a plant that can be used in identification, as if I had to say that. It's habit is very important to the layman such as myself and if a plant isn't in bloom, one good picture of its habit can cut down on waiting time to get an ID, certain possibilities having been ruled out by foliage comparison. I must say that the PBS-wiki does contain some fine picture that don't focus solely on the flower and that is a great resource. Robert. From jimlykos@optusnet.com.au Sun Sep 24 01:44:58 2006 Message-Id: <004701c6df9c$913045f0$f74c1fd3@AMARYLLIS> From: "Jim Lykos" Subject: Crinum scabrum Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 15:44:56 +1000 Hi Joe and Rob, The question of what is C. scabrum is one that I realise has as yet to be resolved. A couple of experienced Crinum growers that I know have the joint opinion that what is currently grown and sold in the USA as C. scabrum are now actually garden hybrids between scabrum and zeylanicum probably dating from the 1890's when C. zeylanicum and kirkii were introduced to the US by the Royal Palms nursery and used in hybridising. Scabrum in this scenario being a naturalised Crinum that grows along the east coast of Southern America and is likely to have been introduced by African slaves or European seamen early in the Spanish/Portuguese period of colonialisation of Central and Southern America. Zeylanicum on the other hand is from the islands of tropical Southern Asia and not tropical Africa. Crinums sent to Kew by Dr John Kirk from Zannibar and at the time identified as C. zeylanicum are now known as C. kirkii. Having grown both C. frimbriatulum from Angola and as yet unflowered C. scabrum forms from USA and Brazil I have found that C. frimbriatulum is considerably more cold tolerant in zone 9b than scabrum - which needs winter protection in my area. Furthermore C. frimbriatulum is a different looking plant - it has glacuous-green leaves that are thin and lorate and has different shaped spathe valves than scabrum. However in other respects the description of both species is very close. I have illustrations of C. scabrum from the Botanical Magazine and Botanical Register, these plants were both from St Michael's in the Azores. At that time it was considered that this Crinum was probably a native of Brazil. In his Amaryllideae handbook of 1888, Baker mentions that C. scabrum is allied to fimbriatulum from Angola and was widespread in coastal tropical Africa from Guinea northwards. From the descriptions in his Handbook scabrum is quite distinct from kirkii and zeylanicum. I'm growing Crinum cultivars under the name C. macowanii that have a range of flowering characteristics, one of them distributed by Mainly Amaryllis as an undescribed species, is exceptionally fertile and has superior flowers and floriferousness to the typical macowanii. However, this Crinum which has lots of offsets and closely resembles macowanii are in my mind natural macowanii hybrids. I mention this as its possible that the scabrum brought to South America may have been a hybrid or, two related milk and wine species from tropical Africa were introduced to Sth America, naturalised and hybridised and distributed for garden culture over the centuries so that their hybrid origin is now masked. As the west coast of tropical Africa hasnt not yet been widely botanically explored I suppose the question of whether a Crinum more closely resembling scabrum or its precursor exists is yet to be confirmed. Cheers Jim Lykos Australia From msittner@mcn.org Sun Sep 24 02:45:14 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060920225619.031de3e0@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: IBSA Symposium Part 2 Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 23:26:17 -0700 I've finally gotten some pictures added to the wiki so will continue my narrative about the IBSA Symposium held in South Africa in August. I've added links with anchors to direct you to right spot on the wiki page unless it is a short page or the species uncertain. The third and fourth days were field days. We road in two large buses to areas to explore, bringing along our lunches so we could stop in a beautiful spot to eat during the day. I love botanizing and this was a much better year to find flowers than the last Symposium. Also we were lucky with the weather. The first day we went to Tulbagh and walked around a farm. South Africa has a very large number of geophytes and because they had so much rain before we arrived every day of our trip that we were out looking we saw a lot. Some things we saw more than once and others were specific to an area and maybe we would just see them one day in a couple of locations or even just in one spot. We were quite excited to see some of the rare plants and also to see all the variations of each species you often see in the wild. My list of different geophytic species seen the first field day was 40. It is challenging trying to identify everything you see. There is no way there is room in the South African Field Guides to list all of the species in the different areas. And most of us wanted to see as much as we could so we were on the move looking for plants. Photos don't often show the details you need to make a positive identification. The revised Stellenbosch to Hermanus (Guide #5) at least mentions some of the species not pictured and how to tell them apart. Most of the other field guides are limited just to the pictures at hand and what you are looking at may not be in your book. There were only a few IBSA members who people turned to for plant identification help. As long as you were just content seeing what you could see without caring what it was you were fine. The first thing we saw was a Wachendorfia, I think W. paniculata. It was a good year for Wachendorfias. We saw a lot of them in the different areas we visited. Some of the treasures we saw the first day were Gladiolus alatus (seen repeatedly on our trip), Lachenalias (I think L. orchioides and perhaps L. unicolor), Moraea villosa and M. papilionacea and the first of many Moraea (Homeria subgroup) we were to see. We found it hard to get anyone to help us with the Homeria subgroup of Moraea. I was told since some of them are supposed to be harmful to stock and farming is important, they are not held in great regard. And some of them are very weedy too which is another mark against them, but some of the ones we saw were really beautiful too. I'm guessing it was M. ochroleuca we saw this day, a nice bright orange with a yellow center. Another genus I found trouble identifying we saw often on our trip was Babiana. It seems that you start out telling them apart by looking at the bracts. There is great variability in color and markings in each species. I think the ones we saw this first day were Babiana stricta, a species much used in hybridizing. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Babiana#stricta Although a lot of the Oxalis were finished blooming as many bloom in fall or early winter this day we saw what looked like Oxalis purpurea and growing in some rocks, Oxalis versicolor. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanOxalis#versicolor And there was a pretty pink form of Pelargonium triste. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Pelargonium#triste Spiloxene capensis was seen a lot of days. The ones in Tulbagh were white with a green center outlined in black. There was still standing water on this farm and there we found Spiloxene aquatica, blooming in mass. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Spiloxene#aquatica Close by there were a number of different Droseras. I wish we could give some of them honorary wiki status, but I'm not sure the South African species are geophytic like so many of the Australian ones. D. cistiflora is such a striking plant. The ones in bloom we saw this day were a beautiful violet purple. After crossing the water we came across two species of Romulea. One of them appeared to be a large and very pretty form of Romulea rosea which comes in all sizes including some not very interesting and small. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanRomuleas#rosea More exciting for me was seeing an apricot Romulea that was identified as R. setifolia since I had not seen it before and I do love Romuleas http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthAfricanRomuleas#setifolia I was fascinated watching the monkey beetles rolling around in some white Hesperantha flowers. They were almost as big as the flowers. Since they fly you don't realize they are beetles until you look more closely. I took quite a lot of pictures trying to capture some in the flowers before they moved on. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Hesperantha (listed under sp. since I wasn't sure what species it was) Later in the day we stopped for what was the highlight for me, a field of Babiana villosa and Geissorhiza inflexa. There was just a mass of red everywhere. Obviously these two must have the same pollinator as from a distance it would be impossible to tell which was which. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Babiana#villosa http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Geissorhiza#inflexa There were also some white flowers intermixed, maybe a Trachyandra. Trachyandra wasn't included in the Color Encyclopedia making me wonder if it is considered a bulb. Does anyone know what kind of root structure it has? In the habitat picture of Babiana villosa you can see the white and red. In this same area Ornithogalum dubium was in bloom. My picture has it next to a Lachenalia unifolia. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ornithogalum#dubium Speaking of the same pollinator, my husband saw Sparaxis grandiflora ssp. grandiflora. I didn't see it, nor did I see the Ferraria crispa he saw, but I saw some things he didn't see. I have been growing this subspecies of Sparaxis grandiflora from Mark Mazer and it is what I call purple or violet. These were plum red, keeping to the red theme of Babiana villosa and Geissorhiza inflexa and maybe sharing the same pollinator as well. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sparaxis#grandiflora Looking at the pictures of the subspecies when I added new ones to the wiki, it seems to me that the shape of the flowers is a subtle instead of a striking difference. The second day we drove the other direction, south to Villiersdorp where we once again visited a farm. Later in the day we drove to a nursery in Caledon that sells a lot of native plants. My list of geophytes seen in the wild this day was 25. Villiersdorp is in the area covered by the Stellenbosch guide and it specifically listed species found in this area and there were quite a few we saw that didn't think fit any of the choices. Some of these I'm going to call sp. on the wiki pages and others I may be bold enough to make a guess. I invite people to confirm my hunches or give me the proper name if I'm wrong about what they were. I think someone needs to expand the species found in this region. Early on we saw Geissorhiza ornithogaloides. In this area we also saw Gladiolus liliaceus and Gladiolus alatus, including a white one that is only found in this region. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/SouthernAfricanGladiolusOne#alatus We also saw a white and a yellow Bulbinella, I think they may have been B. nutans and B. triquetra, but I could be wrong. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Bulbinella There was a lovely pink Onixotis punctata and a gorgeous orchid that I came away without a name for. So if any of you were there and got that name please let me know. We also saw a number of very pretty low growing representatives of Babiana ambigua. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Babiana#ambigua And there were two distinct Wurmbeas we saw. They had a hard time getting us to leave this spot to walk around the farm. On a hill we found Moraea fergusioniae making Bob Werra very happy. I was surprised to find some with coiled leaves and some with out. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MoraeaSpeciesTwo#fergusoniae There were huge Massonia leaves here, some Androcymbium in seed already, some nice coiled Gethyllis leaves, Babiana patula, Gladiolus venustus, and Tulbaghia capensis. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Babiana#patula Two plants that I didn't think quite fit the possibilities were a Ferraria (look under sp.) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ferraria and a Lapeirousia (look under sp.) http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Lapeirousia The native plant nursery had bulbs, proteas, ericas, a lot of interesting things. On Friday we went to the Worchester Desert Botanical Garden again. We went there on the last Symposium and I made a wiki page then. I may add to it later or some of the others of you can add to it if you like. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Karoo%20Desert%20NBG Again we had a tour of the collections closed to the public: bulb and succulents and a walk through part of the garden. There were a lot of nice Amaryllid leaves in the garden. They have given up on their Oxalis collection since the blooming plants seeded into so many of the pots that they are now a mess with multiple species in each pot. Late morning we said our goodbyes. Some people were spending a few more days on their own before going home and some of the South African IBSA members had already returned to their homes. Others would ultimately go to the Clivia meeting after a few days of traveling. Thirty seven of us had signed on to go to Middelpos to spend several more days looking for plants and three nights together. Little did we know what a great treat we had ahead of us. We knew we were on the hunt for the 5 big red Romuleas (some of which are not red, but still get included since they have such big flowers) and for Daubenya aurea. Although I found the talks interesting, the best part of the Symposium for me was getting to visit with people who share my passion for bulbs and looking for plants in the wild. I was so grateful to those people who organized the Symposium, all those people who came and shared the experience, and to Mother Nature for providing us with the beautiful flowers and the dry days for exploring. Mary Sue From gardenstreet184@yahoo.com Sun Sep 24 06:23:06 2006 Message-Id: <20060924102305.34085.qmail@web36409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: "C.J. Teevan" Subject: Is eremurus high or low water? Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 03:23:05 -0700 (PDT) I have been trying to learn Eremurus in my Long Island, N.Y. garden. Heavy clay amended with lots of sand and humus with zero watering during the summer, during which they went dormant. First year after the autumn planting, the 6 I planted bloomed spectacularly - I had only seen pictures until then. Enormous, tall yellow spikes at the rear of the garden. Trouble is, a large maple tree at the rear of the property keeps that section in light shade until perhaps 11 am during the summer, then there's full sun until 7 pm or so and then the low sun is obstructed by tall hemlocks at the front. I am assuming this is the reason my Eremurus did not bloom a second year, and that the half that failed to emerge at all during the spring may have succumbed to cold Zone 7 winter moisture and rotted. Live and learn. Your confirmation of this situation would be appreciated. I don't know where I can move these to this year and I understand you are not supposed to move them unless necessary. "JamieV." wrote: N Sterman schrieb: > I've been researching Eremurus but can't seem to find much on its > irrigation requirement. Is this a low water or regular water bulb? > > Nan > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > Nan, I grow Eremurus in relatively sandy clay on a slope, as they are from the Steppes and desert areas of the orient, meaning a prolonged dry period and no chance of standing in water. I have lost a few over the years due to heavy Winter rain, which they do not appreciate at all! Simply rotted at the crown. One very inpressive bed I saw in England was a combination of roses with Eremurus bungeii and E. robustus hybrids. The theory was, the roses take up moisture so fast, that the Eremurus can't get overwatered. They require as much sun as possible to increase. Be carefull as the spikes emerge. They are prone to rot in wet conditions, such as prolonged rain or overhead watering. Jamie V. Cologne Germany _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php --------------------------------- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com From adavis@ecoresource.com Sun Sep 24 10:32:57 2006 Message-Id: <20060924143253.1F7514C00B@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Alani Davis" Subject: Zephyranthes atamasco, Z. candida Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 10:32:52 -0400 Hi Joe and all, Z. atamasco for me has little to usually no foliage from April to the end of November, while Z. candida is nearly evergreen. Z. atamasco blooms from December to March with an upward facing star shaped large flower with reflex tepals while Z. candida blooms from July to October crocus-shaped cupped medium sized flowers If you are able to compare the flowers of your two plants side by side that could be your sign. I have never had these two bloom together but the flower shape is a give away way tell them apart. Alani Davis _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From msittner@mcn.org Sun Sep 24 11:14:55 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060924074312.02d50a88@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Moraea comptonii-- what to call it Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 08:14:32 -0700 Dear Mary, You asked is it Moraea comptonii, or Homeria comptonii? In 1998 Goldblatt and Manning sunk a number of African genera in the Iridaceae (tribe Irideae) into Moraea making this already large genus even larger with about 195 species. The rationale if I understand it for doing this was that the floral characteristics that distinguished these groups were thought to be evolving specializations for different pollination strategies. Galaxia, Hexaglottis, Homeria, and Gynandriris were gone. Most of them just changed to be Moraea with the same species name, but if that name was already used they got a new species name as well. The combined Moraea genus now became difficult if you were using physical characteristics to tell them apart and ironically in the Moraea key for their Color Encyclopedia of Cape bulbs they are divided into groups: Galaxia, Gynandriris, Hexaglottis, Homeria, and Moraea. In spite of that, on the Moraea page they were all lumped together without synonyms (and there is no index to help you here either.) Although I love this book and find it invaluable, I believe it could have been improved by listed the synonyms with those plants and by having an index. There is a changed species list at the back so that helps, but that is cumbersome. If a plant you know is missing, you can check there to see if the name has been changed. Since we all still need to use floral characteristics to tell plants apart, you still hear people use the group names and on our wiki we elected to put the pictures of the species on their subgroup pages listed as Moraea with their synonyms and cross reference them on the Moraea page. That way the ones that look alike are all together but still can be found on the Moraea page if you are looking there. If you search for them you can find them both places. If I wanted to figure out the Homeria group species we saw on our trip, I'd have to use the key or the changed name page to get a list of what species I'd need to look at as I couldn't figure that out from the Moraea section of the book. Since Galaxia looks the most different of the four, there has been the most resistance about calling it Moraea. As a number of people on our list have said repeatedly, if the name was once published you can still call a plant that has its name changed by that name. So you could say Homeria comptonii L. Bolus or Moraea comptonii (L. Bolus) Goldblatt and both would be correct. We gardeners don't usually keep a list of plants by who named them however. Mary Sue From john@floralarchitecture.com Sun Sep 24 11:43:22 2006 Message-Id: <20060924154321.86525.qmail@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Velthieimia 'Yellow Flame' Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 08:43:21 -0700 (PDT) For all those interested, I brought back a few of these bulbs. Contact me privately at john@floralarchitecture.com DO NOT HIT REPLY! Thanks. I look forward to hearing from you. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From john@floralarchitecture.com Sun Sep 24 11:47:48 2006 Message-Id: <20060924154747.57378.qmail@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Kirstenbosch Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 08:47:47 -0700 (PDT) I was privledged to have a private tour of the growing and propagation areas at Kirstenbosch by Graham Duncan. I will be uploading photos of what was there onto the wiki when time permits. Some of hte highlights were Morea neopavonia, Sparaxis spp., Gladiolus spp., many Haemanthus, Boophane specimens, Clivia 'Appleblossom' complex, some Ericas, Pelargonium spp., and much more. It truly is an unbelievable collection. John Winter gave us a private tour of the gardens the following weekend. I really appreciate his time and knowledge. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Sep 24 14:04:53 2006 Message-Id: <004601c6e003$ed249840$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 25 Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 13:04:46 -0500 My xherbertii-type favored me with a single late scape this month too. http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l85/raydio99/Crinum/MVC-434F.jpg ++++++++++++++++++ Hi Robert, That is a beufiul bloom for any time of year, but for September it is very special. I'll have to take photos next year and compare them to your plant. Thanks for the info, Joe From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sun Sep 24 17:17:50 2006 Message-Id: <012601c6e01e$e43a1410$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Crinum moorei rubra Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 16:17:48 -0500 Hi Gang, C. moorei rubra seems to be one of the parents of 'Hannibals' Dwarf', and a few other things. C. moorei rubra may actually be a Crinum moorei-like garden hybrid, but it has moorei-like flowers that are rose-pink, or dark-pink. I've been looking around to find this bulb, or just pollen from it. It seems to have gone underground along the Gulf Coast, but perhaps exisits overseas or in California. If you have it, or know where to find it, please let me know. It seems to have produced some excellent hybrid offspring. Like many C. moorei-types it seemed to resent the year-round rain here in the greater Houston, TX area. Cordially, Joe Conroe TX Good rain last night, maybe 2 inches, lots of thunder and lightning too. I spent the day shooting mosquitos with a .22 rifle (just kidding). I spent the day repotting and wondering if my C. asiaticum x Fay Hornbucke seedpods were going to fail. So far, 5 or 6 our of 7 have stayed green and growing--2 have pooped out. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 11:00 AM Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 24 > Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > > List-Post: <mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> > List-Archive: <http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbslist> > > Today's Topics: > > 1. South African Bulbs (totototo@telus.net) > 2. Fragrance in colchicums (Jane McGary) > 3. Re: South African Bulbs (Angela and Dean Offer) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 11:57:59 -0700 > From: totototo@telus.net > Subject: [pbs] South African Bulbs > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <20060922190101.8D16VQUH2X@priv-edtnaa06.telusplanet.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII > > The September 2006 issue of the Bulletin of the Alpine Garden Society > is devoted to South African plants, with a significant emphasis on > the geophytic flora. > > Lots of good photographs. > > > > -- > Rodger Whitlock > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate > > on beautiful Vancouver Island > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 16:42:19 -0700 > From: Jane McGary > Subject: [pbs] Fragrance in colchicums > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Message-ID: <5.2.1.1.0.20060922163807.00c4ab48@mail.earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > Jim McKenney's note about fragrant colchicums led me to go around sniffing > them this morning. Some had no noticeable fragrance. C. bivonae and most > of > its many hybrids have a faint fragrance that reminds me of lemon trees. > The > most fragrant was the hybrid 'Dick Trotter', which has a sweet scent > similar to Ivory bath soap. Interestingly, the commercial form of C. x > agrippinum had no scent I could detect, but the form I grow that was found > in an old Portland garden is honey-scented. C. variegatum, one of the > parents of this natural hybrid, had no fragrance (but magnificent bloom > after our hot summer). C. speciosum is almost unscented, so the big > hybrids > must get their fragrance from their C. bivonae ancestry. > > Jane McGary > Northwestern Oregon, USA > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 10:43:31 -0700 > From: "Angela and Dean Offer" > Subject: Re: [pbs] South African Bulbs > To: , "Pacific Bulb Society" > > Message-ID: <005701c6df37$d481f5c0$9c01e63c@angelaslaptop> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > Does it include clivia? > Cheers > Angela > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 11:57 AM > Subject: [pbs] South African Bulbs > > >> The September 2006 issue of the Bulletin of the Alpine Garden Society >> is devoted to South African plants, with a significant emphasis on >> the geophytic flora. >> >> Lots of good photographs. >> >> >> >> -- >> Rodger Whitlock >> Victoria, British Columbia, Canada >> Maritime Zone 8, a cool Mediterranean climate >> >> on beautiful Vancouver Island >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > End of pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 24 > *********************************** > > From susanann@sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 24 18:47:13 2006 Message-Id: From: Susan Hayek Subject: IBSA Bulb Symposium and Trip to South Africa Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 15:47:01 -0700 **I'm enjoying your Bulb Symposium post and going through them slowly so I can look at photos. I panicked when I checked the link below thinking we had another Tigridia, but after calming myself down and rechecking found the correct link. >Ornithogalums, but seeing this one in mass really makes you want it!) >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/index.php/Ornithogalum ** http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ornithogalum whew! -- susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17. 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek of the ocean. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Sun Sep 24 22:56:28 2006 Message-Id: <001201c6e04e$2e0e5540$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Storing Crinum seed? Date: Sun, 24 Sep 2006 22:56:18 -0400 What is the best way to store Crinum seed (esp. bulbispermum, asiaticum, & scabrum)? How long can I expect to keep the seeds viable? Robert. From john@floralarchitecture.com Mon Sep 25 13:54:01 2006 Message-Id: <20060925175400.58284.qmail@web36212.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: Current imports Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:54:00 -0700 (PDT) I have my current list available of gethyllis, cyrtanthus, haemanthus, clivias plants and seeds available. If you are interested and haven't received my list, email me privately at john@floralarchitecture.com. DO NOT HIT REPLY as it will go to the list. John Ingram in L.A., CA. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" john@floralarchitecture.com 310.709.1613 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From xerics@cox.net Mon Sep 25 16:12:50 2006 Message-Id: <001501c6e0de$ecbb7eb0$0ef8b546@richard> From: "Richard" Subject: Seed import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:12:28 -0700 I have just received a phone call from the USDA regarding a small seed shipment from South Africa. They want me to send forwarding postage to LA from where it will be forwarded. This is something I have been doing for years and the forwarding postage was never required. Now, I have to pay postage twice. Once from SA and Once from LA. Never happened before. Does anyone know about this? Richard In Vista CA. From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon Sep 25 17:56:20 2006 Message-Id: <466195b8f792ada5148f781710b493d0@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Seed import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 14:56:14 -0700 I wondered about this as I read all the information that was being posted to the various lists in the months leading up to when the new USA seed import method was begun. According to what was entered into the Federal Register, the USDA authors of the new regulations expected that seed importers would establish an account with the US Postal Service to which the USDA/APHIS/PPQ inspectors could charge postage after inspecting the seeds when they first came into the U.S. in order to mail the package on to the importer. So of course, I decided to look into this before the new permit application starting date. Not being able to find anything online, I finally called and spoke with real humans. They finally transferred me to someone who actually called me back after studying the entry in the Federal Register. He said he didn't know of anything, especially on a small scale, that the USPS offered that would fulfill what the USDA thought was possible. (I suppose different agencies don't really communicate with each other when inventing new rules or regulations?) He offered me a few alternate suggestions, but he agreed there was no good solution. Then month or two after I got my permit, I saw the NARGS instruction sheet on how those outside the US were to ship their seed donations to the NARGS seed exchange. I also decided to import some Clivia seeds from one of the second chance offerings of one of the Clivia clubs in South Africa. I followed their instructions about sending them a yellow and green import sticker as well as a self-addressed label that they would send on with the seeds. BTW, my yellow and green stickers are pre-addressed to the inspection station near LAX. The Clivia club addressed the package to me as well as placing the sticker in a prominent place. The seeds went to the LAX inspection station, they examined them, sealed my package up again (it was a large padded envelope, one end of which had clearly been sliced open, and then stapled closed again right through the tape that had been wrapped around the envelope) and as far as I can tell dropped it in the mail again which already had my address on it. It came straight to my house without further problems. No requests for additional postage and no US stamps or postage markings of any kind were on the package. I still don't know what the final solution really is supposed to be. I get the impression that many of the local inspection ports don't know either. The instructions say to send a copy of all pages of the seed import permit to be included in the shipment so that when the seeds finally do arrive at a port, the inspectors can read what they're supposed to do right off your permit! Doesn't sound too organized yet. --Lee On Sep 25, 2006, at 1:12 PM, Richard wrote: > I have just received a phone call from the USDA regarding a small seed > shipment from South Africa. They want me to send forwarding postage to > LA from where it will be forwarded. > > This is something I have been doing for years and the forwarding > postage was never required. Now, I have to pay postage twice. Once > from SA and Once from LA. > > Never happened before. > Does anyone know about this? > > Richard In Vista CA. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > From xerics@cox.net Mon Sep 25 18:03:23 2006 Message-Id: <001101c6e0ee$58e0e5d0$0ef8b546@richard> From: "Richard" Subject: Seed import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 15:02:52 -0700 Complicated! I have been importing plants and, now seeds under the APHIS inspection rules for some 35 years. Everything that has been imported in the past has been forwarded to me. The inspection station usually put the final address on the package and then just sent it out. I guess from your experience, that a final address on the package in addition to the USDA address would permit forwarding, but.....I just don't know. The inspector who called me sounded frantic. Richard ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Poulsen" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 2:56 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Seed import >I wondered about this as I read all the information that was being > posted to the various lists in the months leading up to when the new > USA seed import method was begun. According to what was entered into > the Federal Register, the USDA authors of the new regulations expected > that seed importers would establish an account with the US Postal > Service to which the USDA/APHIS/PPQ inspectors could charge postage > after inspecting the seeds when they first came into the U.S. in order > to mail the package on to the importer. So of course, I decided to look > into this before the new permit application starting date. Not being > able to find anything online, I finally called and spoke with real > humans. They finally transferred me to someone who actually called me > back after studying the entry in the Federal Register. He said he > didn't know of anything, especially on a small scale, that the USPS > offered that would fulfill what the USDA thought was possible. (I > suppose different agencies don't really communicate with each other > when inventing new rules or regulations?) He offered me a few alternate > suggestions, but he agreed there was no good solution. Then month or > two after I got my permit, I saw the NARGS instruction sheet on how > those outside the US were to ship their seed donations to the NARGS > seed exchange. I also decided to import some Clivia seeds from one of > the second chance offerings of one of the Clivia clubs in South Africa. > I followed their instructions about sending them a yellow and green > import sticker as well as a self-addressed label that they would send > on with the seeds. BTW, my yellow and green stickers are pre-addressed > to the inspection station near LAX. The Clivia club addressed the > package to me as well as placing the sticker in a prominent place. > > The seeds went to the LAX inspection station, they examined them, > sealed my package up again (it was a large padded envelope, one end of > which had clearly been sliced open, and then stapled closed again right > through the tape that had been wrapped around the envelope) and as far > as I can tell dropped it in the mail again which already had my address > on it. It came straight to my house without further problems. No > requests for additional postage and no US stamps or postage markings of > any kind were on the package. > > I still don't know what the final solution really is supposed to be. I > get the impression that many of the local inspection ports don't know > either. The instructions say to send a copy of all pages of the seed > import permit to be included in the shipment so that when the seeds > finally do arrive at a port, the inspectors can read what they're > supposed to do right off your permit! Doesn't sound too organized yet. > > --Lee > > On Sep 25, 2006, at 1:12 PM, Richard wrote: > >> I have just received a phone call from the USDA regarding a small seed >> shipment from South Africa. They want me to send forwarding postage to >> LA from where it will be forwarded. >> >> This is something I have been doing for years and the forwarding >> postage was never required. Now, I have to pay postage twice. Once >> from SA and Once from LA. >> >> Never happened before. >> Does anyone know about this? >> >> Richard In Vista CA. >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon Sep 25 18:19:02 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 17:18:50 -0500 Dear All; I have found import getting more and more difficult. Last year I had a box go through USDA,Customs, Border Patrol and Homeland Security. Every stop took phone calls and ended in confusion. It took over a month for the box to arrive after 2 days in transit from China. Recently a friend imported a box of plants and it went through Customs and USDA as well as the Dept of Justice, Inspector General! When they were done with it in New York, they thought they needed more postage since the USPS has officially marked it delivered to the Inspect. Gen. More calls were able to put it back into the system without added postage. In these days of hightened security and lack of responsibility, expect packages to wander around with no one able to put the proper stamp of approval. Theoretically IF the sender paid for postage to the final destination, a stop along the way (USDA) should not negate that postage. If the sender paid for postage only to the address on the green/yellow sticker you may have to pay additional. I suspect each envelope, letter and package will vary depending on _____________(fill in the blank) Good luck. Jim W. -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon Sep 25 19:47:57 2006 Message-Id: <7604a6c8d024df377a3a6dcdfd51c3ca@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:47:55 -0700 On Sep 25, 2006, at 3:18 PM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear All; > I have found import getting more and more difficult. Last > year I had a box go through USDA,Customs, Border Patrol and Homeland > Security. Every stop took phone calls and ended in confusion. It > took over a month for the box to arrive after 2 days in transit from > China. > It's sad that the import part of the equation has gotten so much slower than the transport part of the equation. I very recently had a friend send me a few seeds of one species from Australia. The seeds were small enough and few enough in number that I just didn't want to go through the whole official process. So yes, I confess, I illegally smuggled them in an envelope via the regular postal service. He posted them in Sydney on a Wednesday evening, California time, and they arrived Saturday morning at my house! I don't believe I could have gotten them any faster via ordinary mail from the East Coast of this country! And so far, no kudzu-like vine has engulfed my house yet. ;-) --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USDA Zone 10a From Run007CB@aol.com Mon Sep 25 19:50:42 2006 Message-Id: From: Run007CB@aol.com Subject: Import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:50:33 EDT Hi, I just got an order of 9 adenium cultivars from Taiwan. The seller gave me a tracking number and provided a certificate of quarantine. It went to Customs for a day and then to the USDA in Texas. They inspected it and sent it out the next day. It took about 8 days. Charles Edelman South Texas From dkramb@badbear.com Mon Sep 25 19:58:37 2006 Message-Id: <7.0.1.0.0.20060925195812.01b2c288@badbear.com> From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 19:58:37 -0400 >so far, no kudzu-like vine has engulfed my house yet. ;-) FAMOUS LAST WORDS!!! Mwahahahaha............. Dennis in Cincy From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon Sep 25 20:12:59 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.1.1.0.20060925171039.00c039e0@mail.earthlink.net> From: Jane McGary Subject: Scilla lingulata Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 17:14:19 -0700 For some years I've grown Scilla lingulata ssp. ciliolata, a half-hardy North African species that flowers (here, anyway) in late November when the leaves have emerged partly. Flowering now for the first time are some bulbs I grew (from Monocot Nursery seed) as S. lingulata ssp. genuina. The inflorescence is narrower than that of ssp. ciliolata, and it is flowering well before any leaves are visible. The only mention of this subspecies that I can find is in the "Bulbmeister" catalog, whose proprietor I think is a member of this forum, but there it's described as "twice as tall" as ssp. ciliolata, and apparently not otherwise different. Can anyone provide more information about this subspecies that will help me decide whether I have the real thing? The leaves, when they do emerge, are similar to those of ssp. ciliolata -- broad and flat to the soil surface. Jane McGary Northwestern Oregon, USA From ernestwells@mindspring.com Mon Sep 25 20:45:53 2006 Message-Id: <8BBC6147-DF20-44B5-9162-7D1A2E99FFBF@mindspring.com> From: Tom Wells Subject: Seed import Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 17:45:50 -0700 Richard, If the final destination was to the USDA, you need to pay the postage to get it to you. The Green and Yellow tag that is with your permit tell the send to post to the USDA not through. You are lucky that they are willing to post on, I have know many people who have had to make other arrangements, like hiring a Broker to do that. Tom Wells On Sep 25, 2006, at 1:12 PM, Richard wrote: > I have just received a phone call from the USDA regarding a small > seed shipment from South Africa. They want me to send forwarding > postage to LA from where it will be forwarded. > > This is something I have been doing for years and the forwarding > postage was never required. Now, I have to pay postage twice. Once > from SA and Once from LA. > > Never happened before. > Does anyone know about this? > > Richard In Vista CA. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From honeybunny442@yahoo.com Tue Sep 26 13:39:22 2006 Message-Id: <20060926173921.3129.qmail@web56107.mail.re3.yahoo.com> From: Susan B Subject: Mary's website and S. African bulbs Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 10:39:21 -0700 (PDT) Thanks Mary, I enjoyed reading about your travels, and your pictures were great! Susan --------------------------------- Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out. From irisman@ameritech.net Tue Sep 26 13:54:54 2006 Message-Id: <002401c6e194$9cb0a6f0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Current USDA procedures re importation Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 12:53:01 -0500 I don't know what the current snafus are. I can say that historically the green and yellow sticker with one's permit number was sufficient to get any shipments through customs, inspection and sent to one's address because your sticker number is keyed to you and your address. I would think that emailing or calling the permit issuing office would clarify this matter. BUT, there are probably all too many clerks who are impressed with their own importance guarding our borders and confused by the proliferation of unnecessary regulations who, when they are confronted with something they don't understand think they have to ask for additional postage. It may be true. Historically,the green-and-yellow sticker was sufficient to get the package through to one's address WITHOUT additional postage. The sticker still notes that it ensures "proper delivery". (I've had a permit off and on for more than 60 years.) nor were we newly advised that such postage would be required when we got our permits together with the instructions. Since those pages were pretty thorough, I suspect that the inspections offices haven't been informed . I am writing Carolyn F. Fitzgerald at the USDA for clarification. Dear Carolyn. F. Fitzgerald. The above MAY be self-explanatory. If it is not-- the question is whether or not any additional postage is required to get a package or envelope sent from the inspection station to the permit holder's address. Please clarify to us and let the inspection stations know? Sincerely, Adam Fikso, Ph.D. From msittner@mcn.org Wed Sep 27 01:26:17 2006 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20060926185255.014a74b8@mail.mcn.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: IBSA Post Symposium trip to Middelpos Date: Tue, 26 Sep 2006 22:23:41 -0700 As promised here is my report on our trip to Middelpos. Almost every year the members of IBSA journey to Middelpos to see the spring blooming bulbs and stay in the hotel and botanize during the day. My husband and I had joined them for one night in 2001, but it was the day we arrived from the United States so by the time we got there it was dark. We stopped along the way since we were traveling with Rod and Rachel Saunders who are good plant spotters from a moving vehicle, but we had a long way to go so I am sure we hit just some of the highlights. They were both driving since they didn't trust us to stay awake after two days of traveling and many hours on the plane. We saw Daubneya aurea in the fading light and the next day we went on to Nieuwoudtville. So our experience with Middelpos was very limited. Mostly we recalled how we couldn't sleep at night in spite of being exhausted since we were so cold. On the other hand each year since I'd read about the annual trip to Middelpos and about the wonderful plants seen, even in years of low rainfall. So when we were asked if we wanted to join some of the other delegates for a post trip to Middelpos we jumped at the chance and said yes, please. After all we now travel with hot water bottles when visiting South Africa in winter. Middelpos is in the Roggeveld. In the Color Encyclopedia of Cape Bulbs this area is designated as RV, initials used in the US that stand for Recreational Vehicle and we did see a lot of people passing us by very quickly in donkey carts. This area extends from Calvinia southward along the Roggeveld Escarpment to the foothills at Matjiesfontein. It is a very dry area with the rainfall occurring in winter. According to the book, rain averages 125-250 mm (5-10 inches) a year with the escarpment getting the higher amount. This year a drought was ended with three times the lower amount of rain so we expected the flowering display would be very good. The Roggeveld is a fairly flat, rocky plain with isolated steep sided mountains. Winter temperatures are cool and frost and snow is usual. In fact Sutherland in this area is one of the colder spots in South Africa. The best displays of bulbs occur along the edges of the Escarpment and the Hantamsberg, a flat topped mountain at Calvinia. Soils are fine grained from shale or dolerite. The latter we remembered from our visit to Nieuwoudtville, red clay that sticks to your boots when it is wet. Middelpos is halfway between Sutherland and Calvinia. It was the distance you could get in a day by horse from one town or the other. It is lower than Sutherland so not quite so cold, but it is a very small settlement with the hotel being the largest building. Even so there wasn't room for all 37 of us at the hotel so they came up with some creative arrangements. We heard that some of the family were sent away on visits so their homes were made available for groups of six or eight. Being at Middelpos is not about luxury accommodations, but the people owning and working at the hotel were very pleasant and did their best to meet our needs and provided a lot of food for each meal we had, although there were not many vegetables besides potatoes. We ate at some kind of community center across from the hotel so they obviously enlisted the help of others. We spent 3 nights at Middelpos and a few others stayed on for a fourth. The first day we had a late start since we had visited the garden at Worcester the last morning of the Symposium and then had to wait for some of the other delegates to be returned to the Spa. Most of the roads in this area are dirt with big ruts so you have to drive carefully and pay attention. At least one of our group hit one of the ditches and blew out a tire in their rental car. It had turned surprisingly warm during the day. The weather was good for looking for plants the whole time. They hadn't had rain for long enough that you could walk around without getting stuck in the mud. There was so much in bloom and it wasn't as windy as it can be. And there weren't as many pesty pollinators as we encountered later in our trip. On the way up most of us took the turn off to the Komsberg to see the plants there. In South Africa a lot of the flowers don't open until 10 and then only if it is warm and not windy and they start closing in early afternoon. So we were in a bit of a rush to see what we could see before the flowers closed. There were sheets of flowers along the way (a lot of annuals). Some of the bulbs we saw were Gladiolus venustus or had it now become scullyi because of where it was, Bulbinellas (both yellow and white and some in large numbers) and Bulbines, Moraea macronyx, M. (Homeria) miniata, another unidentified Moraea, Homeria subgroup, some kind of a blue Ixia and I think another purple species, several white Hesperanthas, lots of Oxalis obtusa, Lapeirousia montana (a pale blue flower), Androcymbium burchellii, and another Ferraria not identified. A highlight was a whole field of Knipfophia, I think K. sarmentosa. As we were climbing down to get a better picture of that some of us spied some Oxalis palmifrons and no, it wasn't blooming there either. Since mine never blooms I don't know when it is supposed to. We also saw a lot of Romuleas this day, although many of them were already in the closing mode. We saw. R. atrandra and R. kombergensis that way, but did manage to see some nice Romulea tortuosa with spiraling leaves and best of all fields of solid bright yellow Romulea diversiformis stretching for a great distance. This was in a very wet field. So we felt we were off to a good start. The next day traveling from Middelpos we passed fields of Moraea, Homeria subgroup. People told us that they had never seen so many before and we thought them quite striking in apricot and yellow, but apparently the others didn't, since they didn't stop for photographs. I don't think they were all M. miniata, but some of them were probably that species and I can understand its reputation for weediness. We again saw Lapeirousia montana, including some there were a darker blue with nice markings. We saw a lot of Gladious uysiae (which sounds like they are saying a-see-i which confused me for awhile as I couldn't imagine what they were talking about). It's a very beautiful little Gladiolus. We also saw Moraea ciliata and M. tripetala in different colors. My husband managed to take a picture that included both Marlene and Bob Werra lying flat on the ground to get the best vantage point for the same yellow M. ciliata. They are dedicated when it comes to photographing Moraeas. There were fields of annuals everywhere and finding your way was a huge challenge as we didn't want to step on any of the flowers. There were yellow Romuleas and also Romulea tetragona. Growing together were an Ixia and a Geissorhiza heterostyla, both looking very similar and no doubt having the same pollinator. All of our boots became golden with pollen. We took pictures of some of the most colorful boots. There were many Oxalis obtusas, interspersed with all the blooming annuals. This was definitely nature's garden. We were excited to spy a red Gladiolus splendens, one of those species that used to be something else with an unusual shape. There were lots more G. scullyi which we saw over and over again. Finally we encountered our first of the magnificent Romuleas, R. subfistulosa. What a thrill to see it. It is just as beautiful in person as in all the pictures I have seen. Digital cameras make it easy to take lots and lots and lots and lots of pictures when you find something so spectacular. We both overdid it a bit. We saw some really pretty Androcymbium latifolium with wine red bracts and some nice Wurmbea. Shortly after we saw the one Romulea, we saw our next big red Romulea, R. unifolia with orange red flowers and black and yellow blotches. Further on we got number three with masses of Romulea monadelpha. Some of us followed the wrong car for the last stop of the day and ended up back in the hotel early. People generally visited the bar and got something to drink and then hung out there or in front of the hotel visiting and sharing in the wonders of the day instead of rushing to their rooms. Two nights we had nightly entertainment. Cameron McMaster set his computer up to show Gladiolus pictures on the wall as we were waiting for dinner. And Rod Saunders gave a slide show of flowers of the Drakensberg another night. Our final day in Middelpos we hit the jackpot. We had already seen so much that your senses almost become numbed and you forget how wonderful it was until you look at your pictures again. The owner of the hotel is setting aside an area to protect so we went there first as ISBA members are going to make a list of what is growing there. We saw lots of Lachenalia obscura and the wonderful patterned leaves of L. zebrina and some nice L. violacea. We were all excited (including the owner) to find some Tritonia karooica, yellow flushed orange with nice veins. There was an Ornithogalum (Albuca) with coiled leaves and a pretty Babiana, Bulbine torta (with coiled leaves) and more of the same things we had seen the day before. On another stop we saw Daubenya marginata which was a little past it, but it was still a thrill to see it. In this area there were wonderful Oxalis obtusas, in many different color combinations. The ones in the shade were much darker. Those were often protected by short shrubs. The group lined up to photograph odd flowers. It there was a bright magenta Romulea and someone found a pale pink one everyone wanted to photograph that one. If there were mostly yellow Bulbinellas, the sole orange one was photographed the most. Yellow Bulbinellas growing in a field with blue Felicias with yellow centers are quite striking. This day we saw more of the gorgeous Romuleas we saw the day before. The highlight of the day and maybe the trip was discovering the field of Daubenya aurea. This was perhaps sensory overload. It's such a bright red orange and growing in the same field of red clay was Romulea subfistulosa, Moraea ciliata, blue-purple Felicia, and white annuals. It was quite a show and once again a good excuse to take lots of pictures. The last stop of the day the leaders very kindly took those of us who made the wrong turn the night before to see what we missed even though it was a very long way. We visited a field of Romulea kombergensis growing and blooming in mass in a very wet area. There was a white one and a violet one almost the color of R. bulbocodium in the middle of all those pinkish flowers. What a thrill to see so many Romuleas in such great numbers in this area. Also growing in the last stop were some yellow Spiloxene. The next morning we said our goodbyes and headed off in different directions with more gorgeous flowers yet to see. We were very grateful that we had this opportunity to travel with people who knew where to find the flowers and to get to know some of the people better over dinner, breakfast, or when carpooling. I didn't add any pictures of what we saw to the wiki this time as it took me so long to do it last time, but I could add pictures in the weeks to come if people are interested. We also botanized in the Calvinia area, Nieuwoudtville, Namaqualand, the Cedarberg, Clanwilliam, the Biedouw Valley, Citrusdal, Darling, Bainskloof, Brackenfell, Kirstenbosch, Table Mountain and Lion's Head (before and after the Symposium). But I'm thinking writing about all that might be too much so perhaps I should just stop with this report and let some of the others who went to South Africa take over. As you can imagine we will be going through our pictures for a long time trying to figure out all we saw. Mary Sue From irisman@ameritech.net Wed Sep 27 14:16:09 2006 Message-Id: <00bc01c6e260$c33c13f0$0100a8c0@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Current USDA procedures re importation Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2006 13:14:23 -0500 Hello Bill Wesela. Thanks for your rapid response to my eMail. The issue is whether postage should be charged at the quarantine inspection station to send envelopes of seeds and bulbs (arriving from foreign countries) from the receiving station to the import permit holder. Some of us in the Pacific Bulb Society have been charged, others have not. I have never been charged., in more than 60 years of being a permit holder, (off and on) The back of the green-and-yellow sticker permit states: " DO NOT place any delivery address on outside of package. The permit number or reference on label willl ensure proper delivery" (highlighting and emphasis is mine.) Historically this has always been understood to mean that no further postage is required, any more than it would for any other mail from any foreign country being transhipped within the United States from wherever it first arrives for customs inspection. to the permit holder This needs some clarification and attention within our system. No change in postal rules seems to have been inaugurated, nor any related change in within the USDA or Homeland Security so that shipments of live plants and seeds are not delayed? Cordially, Adam Fikso. cc: PBS ----- Original Message ----- From: William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov To: irisman@ameritech.net Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: Fw: Current USDA procedures re importation Mr. Fikso, This is in reference to your email. If you could please explain to me the situation that occurred I will be better informed to answer your question and resolve the problem. There have not been any regulation changes concerning green and yellow shipping labels, but local policies have changed in some ports due to the creation of The Department of Homeland Security. Some Agriculture Officers now work as Customs Officers and some remained with USDA. Please contact me so we can resolve this problem. Thank you for your time. Bill William Wesela Team Leader USDA/APHIS/PPQ/Permit Services 4700 River Road, Unit 133 Riverdale, MD 20737 Phone# 301-734-0755 Fax# 301-734-4300 William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov ----- Forwarded by Carolyn F Fitzgerald/MD/APHIS/USDA on 09/26/2006 02:06 PM ----- "Adam Fikso" 09/26/2006 01:53 PM To: , cc: Subject: Current USDA procedures re importation I don't know what the current snafus are. I can say that historically the green and yellow sticker with one's permit number was sufficient to get any shipments through customs, inspection and sent to one's address because your sticker number is keyed to you and your address. I would think that emailing or calling the permit issuing office would clarify this matter. BUT, there are probably all too many clerks who are impressed with their own importance guarding our borders and confused by the proliferation of unnecessary regulations who, when they are confronted with something they don't understand think they have to ask for additional postage. It may be true. Historically,the green-and-yellow sticker was sufficient to get the package through to one's address WITHOUT additional postage. The sticker still notes that it ensures "proper delivery". (I've had a permit off and on for more than 60 years.) nor were we newly advised that such postage would be required when we got our permits together with the instructions. Since those pages were pretty thorough, I suspect that the inspections offices haven't been informed . I am writing Carolyn F. Fitzgerald at the USDA for clarification. Dear Carolyn. F. Fitzgerald. The above MAY be self-explanatory. If it is not-- the question is whether or not any additional postage is required to get a package or envelope sent from the inspection station to the permit holder's address. Please clarify to us and let the inspection stations know? Sincerely, Adam Fikso, Ph.D. From jshields@indy.net Thu Sep 28 07:52:16 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060928074946.01cb70a8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Storing Crinum seed? Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 07:52:48 -0400 We regularly store crinum seeds in the refrigerator. They are put in ziptop plastic bags, labeled, and put in the fridge. The temperatures run somewhere around 39°F or +4°C. The seeds will normally germinate during this time. A few will get moldy, and such dead or dying seeds should be removed as soon as their condition is detected. Jim Shields Shields Gardens Ltd. At 10:56 PM 9/24/2006 -0400, you wrote: >What is the best way to store Crinum seed (esp. bulbispermum, asiaticum, & >scabrum)? How long can I expect to keep the seeds viable? > >Robert. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Thu Sep 28 09:32:08 2006 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Storing Crinum seed? Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 08:20:06 -0500 Dear All; I have been reluctant to remark on this because I think it is sort of a rhetorical question: you can't. With limited experience, I find that Crinum seed either germinates or dies. Left dry on a garden bench it germinates, put in a cooler it germinates, stuck in a plastic bag, it germinates--- or not. Even if left aside for a long time, the seed will germinate, produce its primary bulb and a leaf or two without benefit of soil or water. Once the energies of the seed have been exhausted the seedling dries up and dies. As far as I can tell you can't really store crinum seed at all. I suppose it depends on how you define 'store'. Best Jim -- Dr. James W. Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd. Kansas City Missouri 64152-2711 USA Ph. 816-746-1949 Zone 5 Record low -23F Summer 100F + From steve.burger@choa.org Thu Sep 28 10:37:04 2006 Message-Id: <0BAB7B6F7D5A53418C3B75FA01DE2BED0E973635@CHOAMAIL4.choa.org> From: "Burger, Steve" Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:36:30 -0400 Shade tolerant Z. candida. I wonder if there is some genetic variation among the populations that do well in shade? I have some in partial shade and they bloom, but I've tinkered a bit with more than that and I haven't done so well. Steve Burger Dallas, GA, USA 7b -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org]On Behalf Of Alberto Castillo Sent: Friday, September 08, 2006 11:59 AM To: Susan Hayek Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies and wetness Hi Susan: Do not fear. Zephyranthes candida in the wild grows in full sun in soaking wet soils during autumn, winter and spring. In summer these riverside plains dry out gradually until the time of first March rains (very late summer in this part of the world). This is when they flower, Slight frosts are experienced during winter but of course the river protects the plants from any damage from it. Foliage is perennial. AND, I have seen superb forms of Z. candida growing with wet feet in the foulest smelling muck in DEEP SHADE among riveside trees. In these locations they never receive any sunlight yet they flower fantastically well. The area is warm and frost free. Two Texan species, pulchella and refugiensis, already mentioned, have the reputation of being not very easy to flower except with wet feet at certain stages of their cycles. Another aquatic species is Z. flavissima, now apparently extinct in the wild. Its habitat was hot river banks where it grew with 4-8 in. of water, except in summer when the area would become bone dry until autumn. Foliage is perennial and is madly offsetting. All the best Alberto > Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2006 15:27:04 -0700> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> From: susanann@sbcglobal.net> Subject: Re: [pbs] rainlilies and wetness> > At 10:40 AM -0400 9/6/06, James Yourch wrote:> >Hi all,> >> >We recently had a discussion about how some rainlilies (especially Z.> >candida and kin) enjoy moist soils, even wet feet. Here is an article> >about going one step further, growing rainlilies in your pond!> > **At our local garden center, in their water garden section, they > have Z. candida sitting in the water. I was worried about rot.> > s.> -- > susan hayek, North Coast of CA, USA, zone 9b, Sunset zone 17.> 15 miles south of Eureka, CA, overlooking the Eel River, with a peek > of the ocean.> _______________________________________________> pbs mailing list> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org> http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu propia página de inicio, personalizada para ver rápidamente todo lo que te interesa en un mismo sitio. http://www.live.com/getstarted _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php From john@johnlonsdale.net Thu Sep 28 11:03:58 2006 Message-Id: <10b201c6e30f$054c9f40$6601a8c0@XPS400> From: "John T Lonsdale" Subject: Old Stored Robinett Seed Update Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:01:47 -0400 In late winter I was the lucky recipient of many packets of stored seeds of Triteleia, Brodiaea, Dichelostemma and Bloomeria from the Robinetts, many dating back to collections in the early 90s. Rather than sow them immediately and risk a shortened growing season if they germinated immediately (which they were likely to do) I decided to refrigerate them and sow them in the fall. I figured another summer storage period was unlikely to make much difference to their viability. I sowed them about 2 weeks ago with the bulk of the other seeds I had saved over the summer or collected from my bulbs and am thrilled to report excellent germination in at least 15 collections – I found another 10 pots up this morning, and I’m sure there are more to come. Onco iris seeds are also starting to germinate, and a few cyclamen. Trillium seeds are germinating (sending down a root) from last year’s collections. Also very exciting (I’m easily excited) is germination beginning in wild-collected Allium perdulce seeds – this a crème-de-la-crème gorgeously scented pink dwarf onion from Kansas and other points ‘around there’. Cyclamen graecum and mirabile forms are incredible at the moment in the greenhouse and the Sternbergia and Colchicum are at their peak outside. Crocuses have yet to start, inside or out. All the best, John John T Lonsdale PhD 407 Edgewood Drive, Exton, Pennsylvania 19341, USA Home: 610 594 9232 Cell: 484 678 9856 Fax: 801 327 1266 Visit "Edgewood" - The Lonsdale Garden at http://www.edgewoodgardens.net USDA Zone 6b From irisman@ameritech.net Thu Sep 28 11:47:32 2006 Message-Id: <001d01c6e315$2e499370$5ad8fea9@FAMILY> From: "Adam Fikso" Subject: Fw: Current USDA procedures re importation Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:45:53 -0500 ----- Original Message ----- From: William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov To: Adam Fikso Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 6:42 AM Subject: Re: Current USDA procedures re importation Mr. Fikso, I have heard of this happening more frequently though the Los Angeles area. And from speaking to the Agriculture Officers in the L.A. Inspection Station there seems to be a problem with Customs local policies. Its too complicated to explain fully, but Customs has taken over certain agriculture inspection procedures and the changes have caused some problems with package delivery. Because of this problem the package is delivered to the USDA Inspection Station and can not be forwarded to the final destination with out further postage. The problem is being addressed, but I am unsure of any progress. Unfortunately this is not an easy problem to fix because it involves two separate departments. It is being worked on and hopefully this problem can be resolved soon. Thank you for your concern. Any other questions please contact me. Bill William Wesela Team Leader USDA/APHIS/PPQ/Permit Services 4700 River Road, Unit 133 Riverdale, MD 20737 Phone# 301-734-0755 Fax# 301-734-4300 William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov "Adam Fikso" 09/27/2006 02:14 PM To: , cc: Subject: Re: Current USDA procedures re importation Hello Bill Wesela. Thanks for your rapid response to my eMail. The issue is whether postage should be charged at the quarantine inspection station to send envelopes of seeds and bulbs (arriving from foreign countries) from the receiving station to the import permit holder. Some of us in the Pacific Bulb Society have been charged, others have not. I have never been charged., in more than 60 years of being a permit holder, (off and on) The back of the green-and-yellow sticker permit states: " DO NOT place any delivery address on outside of package. The permit number or reference on label willl ensure proper delivery" (highlighting and emphasis is mine.) Historically this has always been understood to mean that no further postage is required, any more than it would for any other mail from any foreign country being transhipped within the United States from wherever it first arrives for customs inspection. to the permit holder This needs some clarification and attention within our system. No change in postal rules seems to have been inaugurated, nor any related change in within the USDA or Homeland Security so that shipments of live plants and seeds are not delayed? Cordially, Adam Fikso. cc: PBS ----- Original Message ----- From: William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov To: irisman@ameritech.net Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: Fw: Current USDA procedures re importation Mr. Fikso, This is in reference to your email. If you could please explain to me the situation that occurred I will be better informed to answer your question and resolve the problem. There have not been any regulation changes concerning green and yellow shipping labels, but local policies have changed in some ports due to the creation of The Department of Homeland Security. Some Agriculture Officers now work as Customs Officers and some remained with USDA. Please contact me so we can resolve this problem. Thank you for your time. Bill William Wesela Team Leader USDA/APHIS/PPQ/Permit Services 4700 River Road, Unit 133 Riverdale, MD 20737 Phone# 301-734-0755 Fax# 301-734-4300 William.D.Wesela@aphis.usda.gov ----- Forwarded by Carolyn F Fitzgerald/MD/APHIS/USDA on 09/26/2006 02:06 PM ----- "Adam Fikso" 09/26/2006 01:53 PM To: , cc: Subject: Current USDA procedures re importation I don't know what the current snafus are. I can say that historically the green and yellow sticker with one's permit number was sufficient to get any shipments through customs, inspection and sent to one's address because your sticker number is keyed to you and your address. I would think that emailing or calling the permit issuing office would clarify this matter. BUT, there are probably all too many clerks who are impressed with their own importance guarding our borders and confused by the proliferation of unnecessary regulations who, when they are confronted with something they don't understand think they have to ask for additional postage. It may be true. Historically,the green-and-yellow sticker was sufficient to get the package through to one's address WITHOUT additional postage. The sticker still notes that it ensures "proper delivery". (I've had a permit off and on for more than 60 years.) nor were we newly advised that such postage would be required when we got our permits together with the instructions. Since those pages were pretty thorough, I suspect that the inspections offices haven't been informed . I am writing Carolyn F. Fitzgerald at the USDA for clarification. Dear Carolyn. F. Fitzgerald. The above MAY be self-explanatory. If it is not-- the question is whether or not any additional postage is required to get a package or envelope sent from the inspection station to the permit holder's address. Please clarify to us and let the inspection stations know? Sincerely, Adam Fikso, Ph.D. From rdjenkins@bellsouth.net Thu Sep 28 12:40:43 2006 Message-Id: <001b01c6e31c$d512b400$6101a8c0@JenkinsMachine> From: "rdjenkins" Subject: Storing Crinum seed. Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 12:40:37 -0400 Thanks to "the Jims" for responding. I knew about the difficulty in storing/holding them and that's why I asked the list. I do appreciate all comments, especially when they point about someting that might be considered a negative. Saves a lot of time and heartache to know what to expect. Thanks again, Jim Shields and James Waddick. Robert. From jshields@indy.net Thu Sep 28 13:43:20 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060928124953.01b7c728@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Storing Crinum seed. Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 12:52:37 -0400 And I might add that Jim Waddick is of course correct -- you can't store any of the fleshy Amaryllidaceae seeds for very long. Refrigeration does extend that storage period by a few months, but no more than that. It works with Haemanthus as well. It ought to help with Hymenocallis, Nerine, Scadoxus, and maybe others, but I haven't tried these. Jim Shields At 12:40 PM 9/28/2006 -0400, you wrote: >Thanks to "the Jims" for responding. I knew about the difficulty in >storing/holding them and that's why I asked the list. I do appreciate all >comments, especially when they point about someting that might be >considered a negative. Saves a lot of time and heartache to know what to >expect. > >Thanks again, Jim Shields and James Waddick. > >Robert. > > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From jshaw@opuntiads.com Thu Sep 28 18:55:45 2006 Message-Id: <004101c6e351$30af9fb0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: storing Crinum seed Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2006 17:55:22 -0500 As far as I can tell you can't really store crinum seed at all. I suppose it depends on how you define 'store'. ++++++++++++++++++++++++ We regularly store crinum seeds in the refrigerator. They are put in > ziptop plastic bags, labeled, and put in the fridge. The temperatures run somewhere around 39?F or +4?C. The seeds will normally germinate during this time. ========================== Hi Gang, I enjoyed the notes from the two Jims. I have to agree with their general consensus that Crinum seeds don't exactly "store" in the same way that many seeds will store. Crinum produce recalcitrant seeds; this means that they are not orthodox seeds. Perhaps more than 70% of plant species produce orthodox seeds. Orthodox seeds can continue to dry after maturation and can often be stored for many years if kept cool and dry. They can lose lots of water content and remain viable (e.g., corn). LINK: Orthodox and Recalcitrant Seeds (article by P. Berjak and N.W. Pammenter) http://www.rngr.net/Publications/ttsm/ch4/file#search=%22recalcitrant%20seeds%22 Recalcitrant seeds generally have a limited shelf life and Crinum seed can last for months before being planted, sometimes 6-8 months (especially for big seeds, walnut-sized seeds). I have not generally tried to store Crinum seed; it just germinates when it wants to. Storage of extra small Crinum seeds is risky; some hybrid-type seed can be very small for Crinum, and such seed needs to be planted as soon as you can. Interestingly, it seems to do no good to open a Crinum seed pod prematurely; seeds taken early seem to fail more often than not. Sometimes, if seeds are produced in fall, I have planted them and they have remained quiescent until spring. When temperatures warmed a bit, and days got longer, the seeds germinated (C. asiaticum, C. pedunculatum, C. erubescens). I sent some Crinum bulbispermum Jumbo seeds to an email friend overseas and they took about 2 months to get there because I sent them book rate. The seeds had mostly germinated, but being Crinum some of them made little plantlets that could be rescued. I've been afraid to refrigerate seeds and am happy to hear that Jim S. has had good luck with that approach. Surely, coolness slows down the urge to germinate and must help prolong general shelf life (just like a head of lettuce). I've just been reticent to try refrigeration for Crinum seeds. QUESTION for Jim S. ----------------------------- Have you stored many types at 4 C; do tropical Crinum seeds accept refrigerator conditions? NOTE: ------- Just when you want Crinum seeds to germinate, some will "store themselves" and take and extra 2-4 months to germinate, even when conditions seem optimal. Go figure. Cordially, Joe The "second spring" of the year is here. Temperatures often remain pleasant and above freezing until mid-November or even early January. Rainlilies really grow during this not-too-hot time. As far as I can tell you can't really store crinum seed at all. I suppose it depends on how you define 'store'. ++++++++++++++++++++++++ We regularly store crinum seeds in the refrigerator. They are put in > ziptop plastic bags, labeled, and put in the fridge. The temperatures run somewhere around 39?F or +4?C. The seeds will normally germinate during this time. ========================== Hi Gang, I enjoyed the notes from the two Jims. I have to agree with their general consensus that Crinum seeds don't exactly "store" in the same way that many seeds will store. Crinum produce recalcitrant seeds; this means that they are not orthodox seeds. Perhaps more than 70% of plant species produce orthodox seeds. Orthodox seeds can continue to dry after maturation and can often be stored for many years if kept cool and dry. They can lose lots of water content and remain viable (e.g., corn). LINK: Orthodox and Recalcitrant Seeds (article by P. Berjak and N.W. Pammenter) http://www.rngr.net/Publications/ttsm/ch4/file#search=%22recalcitrant%20seeds%22 Recalcitrant seeds generally have a limited shelf life and Crinum seed can last for months before being planted, sometimes 6-8 months (especially for big seeds, walnut-sized seeds). I have not generally tried to store Crinum seed; it just germinates when it wants to. Storage of extra small Crinum seeds is risky; some hybrid-type seed can be very small for Crinum, and such seed needs to be planted as soon as you can. Interestingly, it seems to do no good to open a Crinum seed pod prematurely; seeds taken early seem to fail more often than not. Sometimes, if seeds are produced in fall, I have planted them and they have remained quiescent until spring. When temperatures warmed a bit, and days got longer, the seeds germinated (C. asiaticum, C. pedunculatum, C. erubescens). I sent some Crinum bulbispermum Jumbo seeds to an email friend overseas and they took about 2 months to get there because I sent them book rate. The seeds had mostly germinated, but being Crinum some of them made little plantlets that could be rescued. I've been afraid to refrigerate seeds and am happy to hear that Jim S. has had good luck with that approach. Surely, coolness slows down the urge to germinate and must help prolong general shelf life (just like a head of lettuce). I've just been reticent to try refrigeration for Crinum seeds. QUESTION for Jim S. ----------------------------- Have you stored many types at 4 C; do tropical Crinum seeds accept refrigerator conditions? NOTE: ------- Just when you want Crinum seeds to germinate, some will "store themselves" and take and extra 2-4 months to germinate, even when conditions seem optimal. Go figure. Cordially, Joe The "second spring" of the year is here. Temperatures often remain pleasant and above freezing until mid-November or even early January. Rainlilies really grow during this not-too-hot time. From jshields@indy.net Fri Sep 29 07:48:54 2006 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20060929074225.03593c50@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: storing Crinum seed Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2006 07:49:27 -0400 Hi Joe and all, Sorry I can't answer the question re: tropical types, as I have not grown many tropical Crinum types. I've never tried to store seeds of C. asiaticum nor C. americanum. I have stored CC. bulbispermum, graminicola, lugardiae, macowanii, and variabile so far, all at +4°C, with acceptable results. I'd say most of these will retain a useful fraction of viable seeds for up to around 6 months. I've not so far done a scientific study of this, unfortunately. Jim Shields At 05:55 PM 9/28/2006 -0500, you wrote: >QUESTION for Jim S. > >----------------------------- > >Have you stored many types at 4 C; do tropical Crinum seeds accept >refrigerator conditions? ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 Shields Gardens, Ltd. P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Tel. ++1-317-867-3344 or toll-free 1-866-449-3344 in USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sat Sep 30 09:20:45 2006 Message-Id: From: "Alberto Castillo" Subject: rainlilies and wetness Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 13:20:44 +0000 Hi Steve: It should be of help to add that Zephyanthes candida as a wild plant is always found in zone 10 regions. Its surprising hardiness typical of other Pampas bulbs (Habranthus tubispathus, Hypoxis decumbens, Cypella herberti, Rhodophiala bifida, etc.,) may be traced back (perhaps) to ancient times. But, presently it is invariably found in the floodable banks of rivers, where there is never any frost. Populations do not move inland into the drier (zones 9a-9b) grasslands. In shade they grow in the foulest smelling muck, a medium one would never associate witha bulb. All the best Alberto On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:36:30 -0400 Steve wrote. Shade tolerant Z. candida. I wonder if there is some genetic variation among the populations that do well in shade? I have some in partial shade and they bloom, but I've tinkered a bit with more than that and I haven't done so well.> > 7b _________________________________________________________________ Descubre Live.com - tu propia página de inicio, personalizada para ver rápidamente todo lo que te interesa en un mismo sitio. http://www.live.com/getstarted From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 30 14:36:06 2006 Message-Id: <025401c6e4bf$4cb25580$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Bulbs, Monarch Butterflies, Gardens Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 13:36:07 -0500 Hi Gang, Margie Brown and Lanny Brown live in Vidor, TX, near Marcelle Sheppard. Margie and Marcelle have exchanged friendship, plants, and garden advice for many years. Margie has recently provided me with starts of several different red-leaved Crinum. Two years ago she gave me a variegated C. asiaticum that was still a seed/seedling. Margie is that way, always sharing plants; I think many PBS members will recognize themselves in that description "always sharing plants." Anyway, an east Texas newspaper ran an article about Monarch butterfly migration, and about how Texas gardens can help the butterflies on their way to Mexico for the winter. You can view a photo or two from Margie's garden, but what caught my attention was the estimate that Margie grows about 1,700 types of plants. LINK: Monarch Butterflies, Margie and Lanny's Garden http://beaumontenterprise.com/site/news.cfm?newsid=17265668&BRD=2287&PAG=461&dept_id=512588&rfi=6 After I thought about it it I realized the she must grow about at least 1,700 species of plants, or perhaps 2,000. For one thing, Margie has grown many dozens of Marcelle Sheppards's hybrid crinums over the years, to see them perform under different conditions and simply to help provide second homes for some of Marcelle's best. The last time I visited Margie Brown she gave me 8-10 new bulbs, lots of seeds of many types. The time before that she gave me half a dozen hard-to-find or unusual Canna hybrids. The time before that she gave me dozens of Hippeastrum hybrid bulbs for my front yard. LINK2: Margie and Lanny in their Garden http://www.crinum.iconx.com/html/team/margie-brown.html Cordially, Joe Conroe TX, hoping for a good Monarch butterfly migration. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Sat Sep 30 15:20:13 2006 Message-Id: <000001c6e4c5$756102a0$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: End of September update Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 15:20:14 -0400 Heavy rain during the last week has finished off most of the colchicum which were already in bloom. Only the freshest blooms survived the rain. Some late blooming garden sorts are still on the way up. Sternbergia lutea is blooming freely now, and it's been joined by Rhodophiala bifida. Biarum tenuifolium is also in bloom; B. davisii bloomed about two weeks ago. Crocus asumaniae has had a sprout up for weeks, but the bloom has yet to appear. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the overnight temperature dropped briefly into the high 40s F last night. From jshaw@opuntiads.com Sat Sep 30 15:52:49 2006 Message-Id: <02ee01c6e4ca$0468edb0$6401a8c0@Petunia> From: "Joe Shaw" Subject: Hummingbirds, off topic Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 14:52:50 -0500 Hi Gang, The Monarch butterfly article got me thinking about another famous migrant in this area: hummingbirds. I don't know much about them, or all of the various species involved, but they fly north in the spring and south in the fall. Perhaps some stay all year in greater Houston area, or perhaps a bit further south. Some stay for summer and raise babies. I don't put out feeders, but I do grow some plants that hummingbirds enjoy (no bulbs come to mind). I have several neighbors that put out feeders spring, summer, and fall; fall seems to be the busiest season by far. One neighbor with four feeders had (on average, at any given moment about 1 hour before sundown) about 80 birds coming and going from her feeders in early September, 2006. They are hard to count, never staying still for long. So feeder counts are estimates of blurring, buzzing, and momentarily sitting birds. The migrating birds are different from the summer birds; summer birds set up territories and defend feeders from other hummingbirds. In fall it is a giant food-festival and birds seem to know where to find feeders; there seem to be few fights or territorial displays during migration. They don't exactly line up politely, but they all seem to take a turn at the feeders and then zip away. Gene and Linda (neighbors from 2 houses over) take great care to put up 8-10 feeders and keep the full and clean, and have done so for several years. Gene estimates that, during peak southward migration (September and October) he can use as much as 40 lbs of sugar a week as he fills, and refills feeders several times a day. It would be very interesting to know if people can plant bulbs to assist hummingbirds trough the various seasons. LINK: Hummingbird Migration, General Info http://www.hummingbirdworld.com/h/migrate.htm LINK: Hummingbird Web Site: Home http://www.hummingbirdworld.com/h/index.html LINK: Hummingbird Feeders and Recipes, etc. http://www.hummingbirds.net/feeders.html#recipe LINK: Rubythroated Hummingbird, common species in Houston area http://www.hummingbirds.net/rubythroated.html Cordially, Joe Nice warm weather, sunny and rain free for the hummingbirds. From jimmckenney@jimmckenney.com Sat Sep 30 16:04:49 2006 Message-Id: <000101c6e4cb$b0911530$2f01a8c0@Library> From: "Jim McKenney" Subject: Hummingbirds, off topic Date: Sat, 30 Sep 2006 16:04:51 -0400 Joe Shaw asked about hummingbirds and bulbs. The hummers here (when they are here - the locals seem to have left by now) like lilies, especially trumpet lilies, kniphofias, and tuberoses. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where you know it's a quiet day when you can hear the hummers' wings and twittering.