Dear Uli,
Remember our trade on about a year ago. I traded A.b.
Blanda for your Hippeastrum calyptratum. After a long dormancy the
Hipp finally produced shoots this month. I recall at the time, you
updated the A.b name. Please refresh my memory. If it blooms next
year for me, I would imagine some of our growers would like some pollen.
To the future.
Best wishes, Joyce Miller,
At 06:32 PM 09/02/2006, you wrote:
>Hi Gang,
>
>
>
>Many Eucalyptus species, and some related plants, make a lignotuber. I'm
>not sure what a lignotuber is anatomically, but I think it is some sort of
>stem-perhaps like a potato storage organ.
>
>
>
>Lignoubers allow Eucalyptus species (and Corymbia species, which used to be
>classified as Eucalyptus) to regrow after fire or other damage. The
>lignotuber is a tough storage organ, and because it is underground can allow
>some species to survive 1 or 2 zones of colder temperatures than they might
>prefer. I've had good luck with Eucalyptus citriodora (Corymbia
>citriodora), the lemon scented plant. In the wild the tree can reach 60-100
>ft-tall. In my garden growth is more modest.
>
>
>
>However, the benefit of a lignotuber is that (at least some) eucalypts can
>behave as dieback perennials in areas that are much too cold to allow tall
>tree growth.
>
>
>
>Many mallees, some trees, and some odds-and-ends species will perform well
>in climates that are too cold to allow a "real" tree or shrub to develop.
>The plants freeze back each winter and sprout stems that can reach 6-8
>feet-tall each growing season. The benefit is especially nice with plants
>that make beautiful foliage or which have strong and acceptable scents. I
>do enjoy E. citriodora, a sprig can perfume a room with a pleasant lemony
>scent.
>
>
>
>One other Eucalyptus that I grow is E. viridis. This plant does well here
>and, so far, has not suffered from root diseases that plague other eucalypts
>I have tried to grow. E. viridis is a modest appearing plant, but has
>wonderfully fragrant leaves that provide oils that are used in soaps and
>cough drops, etc.
>
>
>
>The main thing is that, for me, I treat these plants as bulbous-growing
>things. If/when temperatures threaten to go very low, I mulch the plants
>heavily, and let to tops freeze. In the spring, with warmth and some water
>(warmth is key), the plants return and make a garden into a better place,
>pleasing the nose as well as the eye.
>
>
>
>NOTE: I've tried various eucalypts here in the greater Houston, TX area.
>Many survive the climate and thrive for 2-3 years only to succumb to root
>diseases. I've had some luck growing the plants from seeds in sterile soils
>(microwave baked) and letting them get large before planting out-then I give
>them the best drainage I possibly can.
>
>
>
>TWO WINNERS (SO FAR):
>
>1. Eucalyptus citriodora
>
>2. E. viridis
>
>
>
>I hope to try more mallee types in the future (shrubby or with many stems
>from the base, not trees but 10-30 ft-tall).
>
>
>
>
>
>LINK: Australia Plants, source of many seeds and some seedlings
>
>http://www.australiaplants.com/
>
>NOTE: Eucalypts can grow 4-8 feet in a year, even from seed.
>
>
>
>LINK: The Hardy Euclalyptus Page
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/bc/eucalyptus/
>
>
>
>LINK: Eucalyptus camaldulensis, a lignotuber seems optional in this species
>
>http://www.publish.csiro.au/paper/BT9830283.htm
>
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