I would like to add a few points that may be helpful, even if they pertain mostly to growers in warm dry summer climates like SoCal. While I generally keep everything-- a wide range of winter geophytes-- perfectly dry over our warm summers, with overhead shading, what Jane said about some of these plants needing a little 'off season' splash of water is very true. Usually such plants will give notice that they need or enjoy water while resting by holding onto some green leaves but this is not always true. Bulbs with perennial roots like most amaryllids presumably benefit more from such sprinkling than those that lose their roots entirely each season: many irids, oxalis, hyacinths, etc. Geographic range provides a hint: many East Cape and karroo bulbs are essentially winter growing (as with Haworthia, some mesembs, etc.) but are subject to significant summer rains that they need to be healthy and strong. Somewhere I read that California is the driest of all the Mediterranean biomes and that South Africa's Western Cape often experiences, by comparison, more summer precipitation that likely moderates an otherwise harsh summer dry period. What Jane stressed about sprinkling rather than drenching is very important-- the idea is to moderate soil conditions a little (contributing moisture and coolness) and not give so much water that roots are stimulated. Virtually all my repotting is done at season's beginning (Oct or so) or during growth. In my experience it is not good to repot any plant and then leave the soil dry and loose; the soil needs to be 'congealed' so that particles interlock and insulate roots and begin to attain structural integrity. Dry soil left to dry further can become hydrophobic and require rainfall or soaking from below to become thoroughly moistened again. Dry, unwatered soil also provides access to drying air and pests like root mealy. All my winter bulbs are exposed or partly exposed to the elements in winter. At least some direct sun is very helpful and I find that rain is infinitely more beneficial than any irrigation program. In El Nino years I always fear that some delicate plants will drown but after a week of rain almost all look better than ever. Dylan Hannon On 28 June 2012 11:59, Gastil <marygastil@yahoo.com> wrote: > Thank you Leo, Arnold, John, Jane and Dylan, > > > As Arnold notes, it should depend on the type of bulb and their native > growing conditions. I have chosen primarily species from the Cape and > Mediterranean climates to match the climate here in Santa Barbara. > > It is interesting to hear from your variety of climates. Given the > near-certainty of no rain here until September, I will only dig up what I > need to for other purposes, will re-plant immediately without storage, will > remove dried leaves and stalks (no worries re seeds: Ive aleady harvested > those). I will not mulch with bark-based material; I may mulch thinly with > gravel, chick grit, or coarse pumice. Jane's note on avoiding bark-based > potting mix explains the white fibers I have seen so I will make my own > soil mix. I will not dig up any of the seedlings, as tempting as it is to > check their progress. And yes, time is limited. Thank you for the practical > and experienced advice. > > - Gastil > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > -- "*Reason is itself a matter of faith. It is an act of faith to assert that our thoughts have any relation to reality at all.*" ~ Gilbert K. Chesterton