From silverhill@yebo.co.za Mon, 01 Jul 2013 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <52F6AB9D60864EEA96BE0CF26D358825@silverhill> From: "Rachel Saunders" Subject: Grow Bulbs (Kirstenbosch Gardening Series)by Graham Duncan Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 10:49:39 +0200 Silverhill Seeds is selling Grow Bulbs for R210 (USD21, GBP13) excluding postage which is even cheaper than the Alpine Garden Society. Postage to the USA for 1 copy is about USD37 for airmail post and about USD20 for surface post. The weight of the book is over 1kg so postage is quite high. Regards Rachel Saunders Silverhill Seeds and Books Tel: +27 21 762 4245 Fax: +27 21 797 6609 PO Box 53108, Kenilworth 7745 South Africa ----- Original Message ----- From: "Youngs Aberdeen" To: Sent: Friday, June 28, 2013 2:18 PM Subject: [pbs] re Grow Bulbs (Kirstenbosch Gardening Series)by Graham Duncan > I'm not sure if this has been mentioned before > but it may bear repeating for new members anyway : > > The AGS has a good offer ( even better for members!) > on the second edition of Graham Duncan's book : > > http://www.alpinegardensociety.net/sales/books/bulbous/Grow+Bulbs+Kirstenbosch+Gardening+Series/293/ > > M.Young > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 01 Jul 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Especie dos Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 12:14:23 +0100 Hi, The second posting from Alexis asking for help with identification [1]: http://tinyurl.com/k7eqqro Este ejemplar se encuentra en la misma zona que mi anterior especie! La única diferencia es que esta que muestro estaba en un Bosque de Pino y el clima era mas frio. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. This specimen is in the same area as my previous species! the only difference is that this that show was in a pine forest and weather was colder. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. [1] https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0ee7fa7d8311e3b0&id=EE7FA7D8311E3B0%21705& Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIbHqiC4E7e6jAY -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Erythroniums sources Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 10:53:59 -0700 Hi everyone, If you could help Carol, please email her directly at sangil@xtra.co.nz Nhu ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: carol signal Date: Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 12:06 AM Subject: PBS website contact:erythroniums To: xerantheum@gmail.com I have been trying for some time to acquire some erythronium bulbs and was wondering if you would possible know of someone who may have these. I realize that it is not the right time to get these, but I am willing to wait for some. Hoping you can help me with this. Thank you. Carol Signal opotiki From othonna@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Especie dos Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 11:51:05 -0700 Looks like possibly the same Echeandia (?) species. Very interesting flowers and fruits. Your friend should make multiple vouchers complete with flowers and rootstock to deposit at a local herbarium and at UNAM. Probably someone working in an herbarium will know the name of this plant. If a name is arrived at please let us know! Dylan On 1 July 2013 04:14, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The second posting from Alexis asking for help with identification [1]: > > http://tinyurl.com/k7eqqro > > Este ejemplar se encuentra en la misma zona que mi anterior especie! La > única diferencia es que esta que muestro estaba en un Bosque de Pino y > el clima era mas frio. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. > > This specimen is in the same area as my previous species! the > only difference is that this that show was in a pine forest and > weather was colder. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. > > [1] > > https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0ee7fa7d8311e3b0&id=EE7FA7D8311E3B0%21705& > Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIbHqiC4E7e6jAY > > > -- > David Pilling > email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk > web: http://www.davidpilling.net > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- * "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."Proverbs 14:23 * From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51D1D7B2.5030203@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Grow Bulbs (Kirstenbosch Gardening Series)by Graham Duncan Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2013 20:25:38 +0100 Good to hear Rachel has it at such a fine price - but I don't think she'll be able to beat the price of £16 delivered to me in Aberdeen , North East Scotland. The AGS offer is very good for the UK. Maggi Y. From mirrog@yahoo.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 17:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Gene Mirro" Subject: Erythroniums sources Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 16:29:49 -0700 She’s in NZ? How would you get the bulbs past the Plant Police? _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51D249F3.9000209@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 15:33:07 +1200 I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 14:18:29 +1000 Yes it will Ina, but the fines will retain more moisture On 2 July 2013 13:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one > which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still > do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. > > Ina > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Erythroniums sources Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 05:42:08 +0100 I believe that there are plenty of Erythroniums already in New Zealand, and they grow easily from seed in any case. Peter (UK) On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 12:29 AM, Gene Mirro wrote: > She’s in NZ? How would you get the bulbs past the Plant Police? > From awilson@avonia.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 22:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: pumice Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 21:58:18 -0700 Hi, Ina! Small pumice is fine for bulbs (no pun inteded). But, be careful when handling the stuff. The dust is not good for you. Andrew From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D262E9.5020207@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:19:37 +1200 So keep it moist would be best, as I also do with potting mix, always. Thanks Andrew. On 2/07/2013 4:58 p.m., AW wrote: > Hi, Ina! > > Small pumice is fine for bulbs (no pun inteded). But, be careful when > handling the stuff. The dust is not good for you. > > Andrew > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D26580.2050600@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:30:40 +1200 Thanks Steven. I will do some more investigation in sizes of pumice. They call this washed, I can't see that as when I turned the hose on the top of the bag (having cut a hole in the bottom) there was so much stuff coming out. Back to the drawing board. Ina On 2/07/2013 4:18 p.m., steven hart wrote: > Yes it will Ina, but the fines will retain more moisture > > > On 2 July 2013 13:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one >> which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still >> do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. >> >> Ina >> >> -- >> Ina Crossley >> Auckland New Zealand zone 10a >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From othonna@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: pumice Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 22:38:48 -0700 The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots and root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too coarse and aerated. Dylan * * From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 01 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D26965.8000607@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:47:17 +1200 I've been mixing the pumice with some potting mix. I thought that would offset any gaps. Anyway, I gave up the washing idea as it is far too time consuming. Thanks for that Dylan. Ina On 2/07/2013 5:38 p.m., Hannon wrote: > The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots and > root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and > moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too > coarse and aerated. > > Dylan > > * > > > * > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From gardenbetter@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 00:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Shmuel Silinsky Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 03:12:23 -0400 I use fine as well as small pumice (I think that's what you would call it - here it is called tuff) mixed with sand and a bit of sandy soil(sold in bags here) in my inorganic cactus mix as well as for Atacama bulbs and other that rot easily. (We have cold wet winters, but not freezing.) I also use the fine with sand for germinating seed of drainage loving plants with good success. \ Shmuel Jerusalem Israel Zone 9 On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 1:47 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > I've been mixing the pumice with some potting mix. I thought that would > offset any gaps. Anyway, I gave up the washing idea as it is far too > time consuming. > > Thanks for that Dylan. > > Ina > On 2/07/2013 5:38 p.m., Hannon wrote: > > The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots > and > > root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and > > moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too > > coarse and aerated. > > > > Dylan > > > > * > > > > > > * > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 01:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51D280D1.7040701@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 19:27:13 +1200 As these are bulbs I am growing, they need more food than cacti do. And it is not rot, but disease which is the problem. Like you we have cold, wet winters, but not freezing, Shmuel. So I look for drainage and with feeding. Tomorrow I will go past the place which sells all these things and investigate further. According to their website the 7 mm pumice is supposed to be from 4-7mm. I don't see that fitting in with the sand and small stuff there is in this pumice. Ina On 2/07/2013 7:12 p.m., Shmuel Silinsky wrote: > I use fine as well as small pumice (I think that's what you would call it - > here it is called tuff) mixed with sand and a bit of sandy soil(sold in > bags here) in my inorganic cactus mix as well as for Atacama bulbs and > other that rot easily. (We have cold wet winters, but not freezing.) I also > use the fine with sand for germinating seed of drainage loving plants with > good success. > \ > Shmuel > Jerusalem Israel > Zone 9 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From bonaventure@optonline.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: bonaventure@optonline.net Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 12:56:28 +0000 (GMT) I can tell you for perlite with fine particles, it was bad news in the way I used it. The stuff coming from the big box stores here in New Jersey, USA, is loaded with dust and fines, the brand M******Gro has really gone to sh*t. I had used it primarily for Cypripediums, mixed with other inorganic material or cactus,palm,citrus potting mix. Even after being sprayed down and washed through a sieve outdoors, whereupon it loses half of its volume, I found that its addition turned the mix late in the season to a solid concrete like consistency, completely unfriable in one thick clump with no air spaces. Bonaventure Magrys From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D2E15D.5060104@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 07:19:09 -0700 You can buy a much better quality perlite which has been further heat treated and has virtually no dust or fines. it costs about double the regular stuff, and is available at 'grow shops' that cater to the cannabis industry. Diana > I can tell you for perlite with fine particles, it was bad news in the way I used it. The stuff coming from the big box stores here in New Jersey, USA, is loaded with dust and fines, the brand M******Gro has really gone to sh*t. > > I had used it primarily for Cypripediums, mixed with other inorganic material or cactus,palm,citrus potting mix. Even after being sprayed down and washed through a sieve outdoors, whereupon it loses half of its volume, I found that its addition turned the mix late in the season to a solid concrete like consistency, completely unfriable in one thick clump with no air spaces. > > Bonaventure Magrys > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From plantnut@cox.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 07:23:09 -0700 I use a product called 'Dry Stall'. Can be purchased at tack shops and farm supply stores here in S. Calif. Doesn't have fine particles. Joe On Jul 2, 2013, at 5:56 AM, bonaventure@optonline.net wrote: > I can tell you for perlite with fine particles, it was bad news in the way I used it. The stuff coming from the big box stores here in New Jersey, USA, is loaded with dust and fines, the brand M******Gro has really gone to sh*t. > > I had used it primarily for Cypripediums, mixed with other inorganic material or cactus,palm,citrus potting mix. Even after being sprayed down and washed through a sieve outdoors, whereupon it loses half of its volume, I found that its addition turned the mix late in the season to a solid concrete like consistency, completely unfriable in one thick clump with no air spaces. > > Bonaventure Magrys > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nickplummer@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 10:24:29 -0400 I can't find pumice on the east coast, and like Bonaventure I have used perlite extensively for many years. Not only has the particle size deteriorated significantly, but virtually all the brands available from the big box stores now add fertilizer to the perlite, making it worse than useless. I don't want to overfertilize bulbs and succulents, and I definitely don't want to add unknown amounts of fertilizer to carnivorous plants and terrestrial orchids. This year, I have started using stalite (marketed as "Permatill" and "VoleBloc") as a substitute for perlite. It is an expanded shale that is mined here in the southeast, and I have used it for years to break up our clay soil. Results in pots have so far been good. The particle size is uniform, with little dust or fines, and roots seem to like growing into it. Since it is dark grey, it looks nicer than perlite. It doesn't float and makes a fairly attractive top dressing. Nick Durham, NC Zone 7 On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 8:56 AM, Bonaventure Magrys wrote: > I can tell you for perlite with fine particles, it was bad news in the > way I used it. The stuff coming from the big box stores here in New Jersey, > USA, is loaded with dust and fines, the brand M******Gro has really gone to > sh*t. > > I had used it primarily for Cypripediums, mixed with other inorganic > material or cactus,palm,citrus potting mix. Even after being sprayed down > and washed through a sieve outdoors, whereupon it loses half of its volume, > I found that its addition turned the mix late in the season to a solid > concrete like consistency, completely unfriable in one thick clump with no > air spaces. > > Bonaventure Magrys > From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 09:36:33 -0700 "Dry Stall" is probably the best way to get pumice if you don't live near a pumice mine. The quality fluctuates between larger sized grains to finer sized grains and sometimes there is a bit of grit. I prefer the mix to have just a little bit of grit. The roots seem to prefer that much better, as Dylan said. Nhu On Jul 2, 2013 7:26 AM, "Joseph Kraatz" wrote: > I use a product called 'Dry Stall'. Can be purchased at tack shops and > farm supply stores here in S. Calif. Doesn't have fine particles. Joe > > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 13:51:18 -0700 I have always preferred unwashed pumice with fines for my bulb and alpine mixes. In addition to retaining moisture, the fines also release a significant amount of nutrient and help to balance the pH of what would otherwise be a pretty acidic soil, given what is available to us here. Washed pumice is also available here but it's mostly used in bark-based coarse potting mixes for growing conifers and other woody plants. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D342DC.9090001@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 09:15:08 +1200 Thank you Jane. On 3/07/2013 8:51 a.m., Jane McGary wrote: > I have always preferred unwashed pumice with fines for my bulb and > alpine mixes. In addition to retaining moisture, the fines also > release a significant amount of nutrient and help to balance the pH > of what would otherwise be a pretty acidic soil, given what is > available to us here. > > Washed pumice is also available here but it's mostly used in > bark-based coarse potting mixes for growing conifers and other woody plants. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D34400.7030403@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 09:20:00 +1200 Thanks Nhu. I do live near a pumice mine, or rather the suppliers who have no lack ofsources. :o) Ina On 3/07/2013 4:36 a.m., Nhu Nguyen wrote: > "Dry Stall" is probably the best way to get pumice if you don't live near a > pumice mine. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 08:23:09 +1000 I've holidayed in New Zealand a number of times & I was fascinated by the amount of pumice from all the volcanic activity, I visited Lake Taupo in the North Island last time, it has giant beds of pumice in some places & I was amazed by the plant growth in pure pumice where you could see it was meters deep on eroded creek edges, with chunks up to the size of soccer balls all through it, I found some daffodils growing in it & they were huge & healthy, although in some places they were showing signs of being nutrient poor. It was really quite fascinating to see such large deposits. I only see small deposits along some beaches here although there is a fair bit at the very tip of the Great Sandy Cape of Frazer Island National Park where it collects along with unusual seeds that have floated across the Pacific Ocean from places like New Guinea & Indonesia, occasionally something unusual has sprouted, but here the nutrient level is low & salt spray is endless so few survive or are straggly & stunted. On 3 July 2013 07:20, Ina Crossley wrote: > Thanks Nhu. I do live near a pumice mine, or rather the suppliers who > have no lack ofsources. :o) > > Ina > On 3/07/2013 4:36 a.m., Nhu Nguyen wrote: > > "Dry Stall" is probably the best way to get pumice if you don't live > near a > > pumice mine. > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz Tue, 02 Jul 2013 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <4844A1C0-543A-4689-A227-8658748855D2@xtra.co.nz> From: Kiyel Boland Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 10:30:09 +1200 I live in Hawkes Bay NZ, and the land we live on has about 50cm soil then straight into a pan of Pumice about 2 mts thick .It ranged from football size to dust. But not that great to use in potting mixes. But on the big chunks i grow Pinguicula. Kiyel Kiyel Boland kyle.b1@xtra.co.nz savagegardenz.co.nz http://public.fotki.com/savagegardenz/ On 3/07/2013, at 10:23 AM, steven hart wrote: > I've holidayed in New Zealand a number of times & I was fascinated by the > amount of pumice from all the volcanic activity, I visited Lake Taupo in > the North Island last time, it has giant beds of pumice in some places & I > was amazed by the plant growth in pure pumice where you could see it was > meters deep on eroded creek edges, with chunks up to the size of soccer > balls all through it, I found some daffodils growing in it & they were huge > & healthy, although in some places they were showing signs of being > nutrient poor. It was really quite fascinating to see such large deposits. > I only see small deposits along some beaches here although there is a fair > bit at the very tip of the Great Sandy Cape of Frazer Island National Park > where it collects along with unusual seeds that have floated across the > Pacific Ocean from places like New Guinea & Indonesia, occasionally > something unusual has sprouted, but here the nutrient level is low & salt > spray is endless so few survive or are straggly & stunted. > > > On 3 July 2013 07:20, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> Thanks Nhu. I do live near a pumice mine, or rather the suppliers who >> have no lack ofsources. :o) >> >> Ina >> On 3/07/2013 4:36 a.m., Nhu Nguyen wrote: >>> "Dry Stall" is probably the best way to get pumice if you don't live >> near a >>> pumice mine. >> >> -- >> Ina Crossley >> Auckland New Zealand zone 10a >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > -- > Steven : ) > Esk Queensland Australia > Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From totototo@telus.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D303CD.10145.323A@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 16:46:05 -0700 On 2 Jul 2013, at 15:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one > which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still > do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. If you intend to pot up a plant in nothing but pumice, be sure to wash it. I have found that otherwise, the fines are washed down to the drainhole, pile up against the piece of fly screening I customarily put over the hole, and block drainage. Pumice by itself is a very good potting medium for certain plants. I use it for Weldenia candida (which happens to grow natively near the tops of Central American volcanoes, according to the literature), and a few honest-to-God high alpines. Pumice is actually quite nutritious in a limited sense, containing a lot of potassium. You are justified in your unhappiness with this supposedly-washed pumice you've been sold. Even when it's going into a potting mix, I wash it first over a It's shocking how much fine material comes out. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1372810352.23535.YahooMailNeo@web84504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 17:12:32 -0700 (PDT) This thread is confusing me. I have almost no experience with pumice. Last year I did buy a bag of Dry Stall to use in a mix for some crocuses and fritillaries. The stuff which came out of the bag was pale gray-brown and very uniform in size: each piece was about the size of a grain of table salt or granulated sugar, but rounded rather than angular. It reminded me of celery seed.  When the rest of you talk about dust, fines and small stuff, are you talking about particles smaller than the ones I've described?  Did I pay $20 for a bag of something the rest of you sift out and throw away?  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where it seems to rain every day now.   From xerantheum@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 18:26:53 -0700 Jim, The description of your pumice seems odd. It should not be that small, but it seems that Dry Stall will package various sizes. You may have gotten a bag that was less than ideal. Luckily, we have a wiki entry that shows the pumice, along with many other growing media. The page was greatly improved by Gastil's additions. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GrowingMedium#pumice Hope that helps, Nhu On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 5:12 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > When the rest of you talk about dust, fines and small stuff, are you talking about particles smaller than the ones I've described? > Did I pay $20 for a bag of something the rest of you sift out and throw away? From gentian21@comcast.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <80749350FD59417B9033599C8F7C3811@squeeky> From: Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 22:49:27 -0500 I avoid using fly screen for that reason. There is a coarser 1/8" screen that works fine. Many things can clog fly screen. Frank Cooper -----Original Message----- From: Rodger Whitlock Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2013 6:46 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice On 2 Jul 2013, at 15:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one > which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still > do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. If you intend to pot up a plant in nothing but pumice, be sure to wash it. I have found that otherwise, the fines are washed down to the drainhole, pile up against the piece of fly screening I customarily put over the hole, and block drainage. Pumice by itself is a very good potting medium for certain plants. I use it for Weldenia candida (which happens to grow natively near the tops of Central American volcanoes, according to the literature), and a few honest-to-God high alpines. Pumice is actually quite nutritious in a limited sense, containing a lot of potassium. You are justified in your unhappiness with this supposedly-washed pumice you've been sold. Even when it's going into a potting mix, I wash it first over a It's shocking how much fine material comes out. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51D3A59A.7050603@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 16:16:26 +1200 Thank you Roger. I am learning all the time. Ina On 3/07/2013 3:49 p.m., gentian21@comcast.net wrote: > You are justified in your unhappiness with this supposedly-washed pumice > you've > been sold. Even when it's going into a potting mix, I wash it first over a > It's > shocking how much fine material comes out. > > > -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool > Mediterranean climate -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From plantnut@cox.net Tue, 02 Jul 2013 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 21:24:51 -0700 Dry Stall is supposed to be large. Little smaller than a pea. It is made for horse stalls. It would not be useful if it created dust when the horses walked on it. Joe On Jul 2, 2013, at 4:46 PM, Rodger Whitlock wrote: > On 2 Jul 2013, at 15:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one >> which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still >> do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. > > If you intend to pot up a plant in nothing but pumice, be sure to wash it. I > have found that otherwise, the fines are washed down to the drainhole, pile up > against the piece of fly screening I customarily put over the hole, and block > drainage. > > Pumice by itself is a very good potting medium for certain plants. I use it for > Weldenia candida (which happens to grow natively near the tops of Central > American volcanoes, according to the literature), and a few honest-to-God high > alpines. > > Pumice is actually quite nutritious in a limited sense, containing a lot of > potassium. > > You are justified in your unhappiness with this supposedly-washed pumice you've > been sold. Even when it's going into a potting mix, I wash it first over a It's > shocking how much fine material comes out. > > > -- > Rodger Whitlock > Victoria, British Columbia, Canada > Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Jadeboy48@aol.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jadeboy48@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 126, Issue 2/pumice use Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 00:26:54 -0400 (EDT) To Ina, Pumice can be washed outside in a food strainer/collander and a lot of the dust and fine pieces are washed away. I do it in my garden because the pumice won't harm anything. Sometimes the sacks I get are really dusty and you should not inhale little particles of rock! Please use a face mask at the very least. I use at least 30 sacks of coarse pumice,sometimes more. That is a lot of dust to inhale! Good luck-Russ H. in Peoria AZ,Current 9:30pm temp is around 98F,20% humidity,variable winds,frequent dust storms,very high fire danger. In a message dated 7/2/2013 12:26:52 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org writes: Send pbs mailing list submissions to pbs@lists.ibiblio.org To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org You can reach the person managing the list at pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." List-Post:<mailto:pbs@lists.ibiblio.org List-Archive:<http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php Today's Topics: 1. Erythroniums sources (Nhu Nguyen) 2. Re: Especie dos (Hannon) 3. Re: re Grow Bulbs (Kirstenbosch Gardening Series)by Graham Duncan (Youngs Aberdeen) 4. Erythroniums sources (Gene Mirro) 5. re pumice (Ina Crossley) 6. Re: re pumice (steven hart) 7. Re: Erythroniums sources (Peter Taggart) 8. re pumice (AW) 9. Re: re pumice (Ina Crossley) 10. Re: re pumice (Ina Crossley) 11. Re: re pumice (Hannon) 12. Re: re pumice (Ina Crossley) 13. Re: re pumice (Shmuel Silinsky) 14. Re: re pumice (Ina Crossley) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 10:53:59 -0700 From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: [pbs] Erythroniums sources To: Pacific Bulb Society , sangil@xtra.co.nz Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hi everyone, If you could help Carol, please email her directly at sangil@xtra.co.nz Nhu ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: carol signal Date: Sun, Jun 30, 2013 at 12:06 AM Subject: PBS website contact:erythroniums To: xerantheum@gmail.com I have been trying for some time to acquire some erythronium bulbs and was wondering if you would possible know of someone who may have these. I realize that it is not the right time to get these, but I am willing to wait for some. Hoping you can help me with this. Thank you. Carol Signal opotiki ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 11:51:05 -0700 From: Hannon Subject: Re: [pbs] Especie dos To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Looks like possibly the same Echeandia (?) species. Very interesting flowers and fruits. Your friend should make multiple vouchers complete with flowers and rootstock to deposit at a local herbarium and at UNAM. Probably someone working in an herbarium will know the name of this plant. If a name is arrived at please let us know! Dylan On 1 July 2013 04:14, David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > The second posting from Alexis asking for help with identification [1]: > > http://tinyurl.com/k7eqqro > > Este ejemplar se encuentra en la misma zona que mi anterior especie! La > ?nica diferencia es que esta que muestro estaba en un Bosque de Pino y > el clima era mas frio. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. > > This specimen is in the same area as my previous species! the > only difference is that this that show was in a pine forest and > weather was colder. Atarjea, Guanajuato, Mexico. > > [1] > > https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=0ee7fa7d8311e3b0&id=EE7FA7D8311E3B0%21705& > Bsrc=Photomail&Bpub=SDX.Photos&authkey=!AIbHqiC4E7e6jAY > > > -- > David Pilling > email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk > web: http://www.davidpilling.net > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- * "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."Proverbs 14:23 * ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2013 20:25:38 +0100 From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Re: [pbs] re Grow Bulbs (Kirstenbosch Gardening Series)by Graham Duncan To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Message-ID: <51D1D7B2.5030203@btinternet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Good to hear Rachel has it at such a fine price - but I don't think she'll be able to beat the price of ?16 delivered to me in Aberdeen , North East Scotland. The AGS offer is very good for the UK. Maggi Y. ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 16:29:49 -0700 From: "Gene Mirro" Subject: [pbs] Erythroniums sources To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" She?s in NZ? How would you get the bulbs past the Plant Police? ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 15:33:07 +1200 From: Ina Crossley Subject: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <51D249F3.9000209@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 14:18:29 +1000 From: steven hart Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Yes it will Ina, but the fines will retain more moisture On 2 July 2013 13:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one > which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still > do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. > > Ina > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 05:42:08 +0100 From: Peter Taggart Subject: Re: [pbs] Erythroniums sources To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 I believe that there are plenty of Erythroniums already in New Zealand, and they grow easily from seed in any case. Peter (UK) On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 12:29 AM, Gene Mirro wrote: > She?s in NZ? How would you get the bulbs past the Plant Police? > ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 21:58:18 -0700 From: "AW" Subject: [pbs] re pumice To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, Ina! Small pumice is fine for bulbs (no pun inteded). But, be careful when handling the stuff. The dust is not good for you. Andrew ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:19:37 +1200 From: Ina Crossley Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <51D262E9.5020207@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed So keep it moist would be best, as I also do with potting mix, always. Thanks Andrew. On 2/07/2013 4:58 p.m., AW wrote: > Hi, Ina! > > Small pumice is fine for bulbs (no pun inteded). But, be careful when > handling the stuff. The dust is not good for you. > > Andrew > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:30:40 +1200 From: Ina Crossley Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <51D26580.2050600@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Thanks Steven. I will do some more investigation in sizes of pumice. They call this washed, I can't see that as when I turned the hose on the top of the bag (having cut a hole in the bottom) there was so much stuff coming out. Back to the drawing board. Ina On 2/07/2013 4:18 p.m., steven hart wrote: > Yes it will Ina, but the fines will retain more moisture > > > On 2 July 2013 13:33, Ina Crossley wrote: > >> I am using pumice in my mixes, but only recently. I bought the 7mm one >> which seems to have a lot of dust and small stuff in it. Does it still >> do it's job of drainage with all the small stuff filling any gaps. >> >> Ina >> >> -- >> Ina Crossley >> Auckland New Zealand zone 10a >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2013 22:38:48 -0700 From: Hannon Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots and root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too coarse and aerated. Dylan * * ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 17:47:17 +1200 From: Ina Crossley Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <51D26965.8000607@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I've been mixing the pumice with some potting mix. I thought that would offset any gaps. Anyway, I gave up the washing idea as it is far too time consuming. Thanks for that Dylan. Ina On 2/07/2013 5:38 p.m., Hannon wrote: > The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots and > root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and > moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too > coarse and aerated. > > Dylan > > * > > > * > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 03:12:23 -0400 From: Shmuel Silinsky Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 I use fine as well as small pumice (I think that's what you would call it - here it is called tuff) mixed with sand and a bit of sandy soil(sold in bags here) in my inorganic cactus mix as well as for Atacama bulbs and other that rot easily. (We have cold wet winters, but not freezing.) I also use the fine with sand for germinating seed of drainage loving plants with good success. \ Shmuel Jerusalem Israel Zone 9 On Tue, Jul 2, 2013 at 1:47 AM, Ina Crossley wrote: > I've been mixing the pumice with some potting mix. I thought that would > offset any gaps. Anyway, I gave up the washing idea as it is far too > time consuming. > > Thanks for that Dylan. > > Ina > On 2/07/2013 5:38 p.m., Hannon wrote: > > The fines are not harmful and can be very helpful in coating live roots > and > > root hairs. Washing pumice deprives roots of needed insulation and > > moisture. For most plants there is such a thing as a medium that is too > > coarse and aerated. > > > > Dylan > > > > * > > > > > > * > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2013 19:27:13 +1200 From: Ina Crossley Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice To: Pacific Bulb Society Message-ID: <51D280D1.7040701@gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed As these are bulbs I am growing, they need more food than cacti do. And it is not rot, but disease which is the problem. Like you we have cold, wet winters, but not freezing, Shmuel. So I look for drainage and with feeding. Tomorrow I will go past the place which sells all these things and investigate further. According to their website the 7 mm pumice is supposed to be from 4-7mm. I don't see that fitting in with the sand and small stuff there is in this pumice. Ina On 2/07/2013 7:12 p.m., Shmuel Silinsky wrote: > I use fine as well as small pumice (I think that's what you would call it - > here it is called tuff) mixed with sand and a bit of sandy soil(sold in > bags here) in my inorganic cactus mix as well as for Atacama bulbs and > other that rot easily. (We have cold wet winters, but not freezing.) I also > use the fine with sand for germinating seed of drainage loving plants with > good success. > \ > Shmuel > Jerusalem Israel > Zone 9 -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php End of pbs Digest, Vol 126, Issue 2 *********************************** From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D3B65A.9010600@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 126, Issue 2/pumice use Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 17:27:54 +1200 Thank you Ross. Your weather sounds like we had in summer. And thanks about mentioning the mask. Have not been back to the selling lot where I gotthis from to investigate what their bulk lot is like, but will when the weather improves. Here it is wet, wet, wet. Now if I line a plastic washing basket with something open weave, fill it with pumice and turn the hose on it, that should do it quicker. And yes, it would go into the garden, wouldn't want to fill the rainwater drain with it. Ina On 3/07/2013 4:26 p.m., Jadeboy48@aol.com wrote: > To Ina, Pumice can be washed outside in a food strainer/collander and a lot > of the dust and fine pieces are washed away. I do it in my garden because > the pumice won't harm anything. Sometimes the sacks I get are really dusty > and you should not inhale little particles of rock! Please use a face mask > at the very least. I use at least 30 sacks of coarse pumice,sometimes more. > That is a lot of dust to inhale! Good luck-Russ H. in Peoria AZ,Current > 9:30pm temp is around 98F,20% humidity,variable winds,frequent dust > storms,very high fire danger. -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D3B76D.5000307@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 17:32:29 +1200 Depends on where you live Joe. When I googled Dry Stall for NewZealand all I got was about pigs..... Nothing to do with the stuff we are thinking of. So pumice it has to be, although I also bought some baked clay kittylitter today. And will check what they sell for hydroponic gardening. Ina On 3/07/2013 4:24 p.m., Joseph Kraatz wrote: > Dry Stall is supposed to be large. Little smaller than a pea. It is made for horse stalls. It would not be useful if it created dust when the horses walked on it. Joe -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From michaelcmace@gmail.com Tue, 02 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <00e601ce77b0$fa4023e0$eec06ba0$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Pumice Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2013 22:48:41 -0700 What a fun conversation! A couple of notes: --In the US, beware of confusing Dry Stall with Stall Dry: Stall Dry is a mixture of diatomaceous earth and clay, used like kitty litter for horses. Not a good potting ingredient. Dry Stall is pumice, with very angular particle sizes ranging from about 2-6 mm, and contains very few fines ("fines" being a sophisticated word for tiny dust-like particles). Jim, whatever you got in that bag, it doesn't sound like the Dry Stall you can buy in California. --Regarding the goodness or badness of fines, I think everything is relative. If you have too much fines, your soil mix doesn't have enough air in it and your bulbs rot. If you don't have enough fines, the soil dries too quickly and your plants wither. I've caused very big problems for myself in the past when I failed to take into account the amount of fines when mixing up a batch of potting soil. For example, for several years I used a lot of perlite in my soil mix, thinking that perlite increased drainage. But the perlite I was using had a lot of fines in it, so it actually acted as a water-retaining ingredient. When I mixed it with peat, the result was a soggy mass that air couldn't penetrate. And then I wondered why some of my bulbs died. The key to good planting mix, as many of the old-time growers say, seems to be getting a good balance of moisture-retaining ingredients and drainage-encouraging ingredients. Not too much fines, and not too little. You want a soil mix that air can penetrate but that will keep the roots from completely drying out. In other words, it should remain damp for a long time, but should not stay sopping wet for long at all. Gastil's beautiful work on the Growing Medium page on the wiki gives a ton of useful information on this subject. Mike San Jose, CA From gentian21@comcast.net Wed, 03 Jul 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <39083CE39377427A8F45B3F70D2A4E33@squeeky> From: Subject: pumice Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 01:17:36 -0500 And there is Stall Dry made from diatoms. -----Original Message----- From: Ina Crossley Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2013 12:32 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] re pumice Depends on where you live Joe. When I googled Dry Stall for NewZealand all I got was about pigs..... Nothing to do with the stuff we are thinking of. So pumice it has to be, although I also bought some baked clay kittylitter today. And will check what they sell for hydroponic gardening. Ina On 3/07/2013 4:24 p.m., Joseph Kraatz wrote: > Dry Stall is supposed to be large. Little smaller than a pea. It is > made for horse stalls. It would not be useful if it created dust when the > horses walked on it. Joe -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 03 Jul 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Pumice Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 12:03:17 +0100 Hi, More fine material will make the medium more water retentive - the laws of Physics can't be avoided. How water retentive a medium is, can be measured by a simple experiment, see the PBS wiki page: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GrowingMedium Instead of words, which mean different things to people, it would be possible to quote numbers for the ideal medium for species. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From klazina1@gmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51D40A5F.7090201@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Pumice Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2013 23:26:23 +1200 I have studied that page well and truly David. Will do some experiments to try what suits best for my bulbs in this climate. Also will be checking up with the suppliers of the pumice as to what I can expect of their "washed" pumice if bought in bulk. And try some containers with baked clay kitty litter. And find a quicker way to wash pumice myself. I should have known this 5 years ago. Would have saved me some problems. Ah well, at least I could ask, and read the Wiki. And now improve matters. Thank you one and all. Ina On 3/07/2013 11:03 p.m., David Pilling wrote: > Hi, > > More fine material will make the medium more water retentive - the laws > of Physics can't be avoided. > > How water retentive a medium is, can be measured by a simple experiment, > see the PBS wiki page: > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/GrowingMedium > > Instead of words, which mean different things to people, it would be > possible to quote numbers for the ideal medium for species. > > > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From ds429@comcast.net Wed, 03 Jul 2013 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <000001ce77f1$973bdeb0$c5b39c10$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 340 Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 09:29:11 -0400 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 340" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Marvin Ellenbecker: 1. Smallish bulbs of Haemanthus albiflos. 2. Seed of Freesia laxa, red and a few white From Jonathan Lubar: 3. Seed of Zephyranthes drummondii, ex Yucca Do 'San Carlos Form' 4. Seed of Freesia laxa ssp azurea 5. Seed of Zephyranthes primulina, ex BX 298 From Stephen Gregg: 6. Seed of Drimia maritima (syn Urginea maritima), multiple spikes up to 1.5 m From Uli Urban: 7. Cormlets of Gladiolus flanaganii From Arnold Trachtenberg: 8. Small bulbs of Lachenalia bulbifera 9. Large corms of Chasmanthe floribunda var. duckittii (few) 10. Small corms of Moraea setifolia (few) 11. Seed of Lachenalia nervosa 12. Seed of Colchicum mixed spp/cvs, open pollinated From Jerry Lehmann: 13. Bulbs of Allium canadense, ex Miami County, Kansas, pale pink From Judy Glattstein: 14. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Red Lion', open-pollinated From Kipp McMichael: 15. Seed of Boophane disticha From Shirley Meneice: 16. "Bulbils from that mystery Chasmanthe that grew to 6 feet. Someone on the PBS list suggested that members might be interested in them since the parent plant was so different from the standard variety." Thank you, Marvin, Jonathan, Stephen, Uli, Arnold, Jerry, Judy, Kipp, and Shirley !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 11:15:46 -0400 Is it normal for Kniphofia to produce keikeis? I've never seen it before and I've grown them for 10+ years. I'm purging all the bearded irises & Kniphofia out of two flower beds and giving them away to friends. I noticed a keikei on one yellow/green flowered Kniphofia. I was like... "well I'll be darned". Dennis in Cincinnati From dkramb@badbear.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 11:23:54 -0400 Here is a pic of it: http://www.badbear.com/dkramb/Kniphofia%20keikei.jpg On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 11:15 AM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > Is it normal for Kniphofia to produce keikeis? I've never seen it before > and I've grown them for 10+ years. I'm purging all the bearded irises & > Kniphofia out of two flower beds and giving them away to friends. I > noticed a keikei on one yellow/green flowered Kniphofia. I was like... > "well I'll be darned". > > Dennis in Cincinnati > > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 09:45:16 -0700 Greetings, The Boohpone disticha seed from comes from two of the planted-out bulbs in my front yard. This year, they bloomed at the same time and I was able to cross them with great success. These bulbs are basically watered year-round - every 2 weeks in the dry season and as often as it rains in winter - and are dormant from October-ish to late May. Dark pink /cerise flowers. The foliage is not extremely wavy but does have some undulation and even a few twists at the leaf tips. I again noticed that the outer, earlier-blooming flowers bore most seeds - none of the innermost blooms made seed. This could be merely the result of the plant detecting sufficient fertilization in the early flowers, I suppose. Last year I also has a single bloom on another Boophone - supposedly sp Aus as labeled by Paul Christian at rareplants (uk). Others questioned the sp Aus label and I also agree these plants bear a close resemblance to ones I got via Penroc/Charles Craib that were called "Eastern Cape evergreen" which, in turn, look similar in foliage to Boophone sp. Port Elizabeth which I have a few of (but which have not yet bloomed). Anyway, this was a long intro to a fairly crappy (but exciting) photograph: http://www.anexaminedlife.net/bulbs/boophone3.jpg Don't get distracted by the mature (and infertile) seedhead from a B. haemanthoides (like last year, only one bloomed) - the excitement is to be seen in the 3(!) blooms emerging from the sp Aus bulbs to the fore & right of the photo. I should have plenty of seed this year :-) And finally, one of the Boophone "Eastern Cape evergreen" species I have planted-out in the front yard is also pushing a bloom stem this year (as it did last year). I will compare it's flowers to the putative sp Aus. Their similar form and near simultaneous bloom suggest an affinity. Are any of the listers among those who got sp Aus from Guy Wrinkle (or a source who wasn't Paul Christian)? I'd love to see an image of the foliage and, even better, the flower and seed pod (even an infertile one). -| From: Tim Harvey Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 10:40:52 -0700 I have a couple of bulbs. They haven't flowered yet, though I've had them for 5-6 years now. T > Are any of the listers among those who got sp Aus from Guy Wrinkle (or a source who wasn't Paul Christian)? I'd love to see an image of the foliage and, even better, the flower and seed pod (even an infertile one). From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 11:12:21 -0700 What was your source, Tim? I know Guy Wrinkle offered these once. Does anyone know who originally offered them (assuming Guy did not dig them himself)? I'm hoping there might be some way to clear up the issue with Aus being nowhere near the "new southern cape" locality where the more recent offerings of sp Aus are claimed to originate. That being said, disjunct distributions are common enough (especially among coastal species) that it isn't impossible that the same species to be in Aus and much further south. California has multiple examples of species that likely spread over coastal terrain that emerged during past ice ages only to be trapped in widely separated pockets when sea levels rose again over the last 10K years. I think the range of latitude between Aus and "the southern Cape" is comparable. -| I have a couple of bulbs. They haven't flowered yet, though I've had them for 5-6 years now. > > T From zigur@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 11:29:22 -0700 Mine came directly from Aus, same as the plants from Guy Wrinkle. Charles Craib also offered bulbs from the same area. South of Aus, the Boophone formerly known as ernestii-ruschii can be found. I wonder what happened to that name? T > What was your source, Tim? I know Guy Wrinkle offered these once. Does anyone know who originally offered them (assuming Guy did not dig them himself)? I'm hoping there might be some way to clear up the issue with Aus being nowhere near the "new southern cape" locality where the more recent offerings of sp Aus are claimed to originate. From petersirises@gmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 20:05:10 +0100 yes I have seen these Peter (UK) On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 4:15 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > Is it normal for Kniphofia to produce keikeis? I > noticed a keikei on one yellow/green flowered Kniphofia. > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 13:29:14 -0700 Hmm - I am pretty sure Paul Christian also got his sp Aus bulbs from Charles Craib. Unless there was some mistake on Paul's part (since I trust Charle's identification), I am more confident in thinking the sp Aus I got from rareplants is the same as those previously offered. As for ernestii-ruschii, it's considered to be haemanthoides now. That said, I'd really like more clarification regarding the various Boophone strains, ranges, and habits - but I don't think a molecular genetically-minded grad student has decided to focus on the genus yet. -| Mine came directly from Aus, same as the plants from Guy Wrinkle. Charles Craib also offered bulbs from the same area. > > South of Aus, the Boophone formerly known as ernestii-ruschii can be found. I wonder what happened to that name? From zigur@hotmail.com Wed, 03 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 13:46:50 -0700 I think it depends a lot on when Christian got the bulbs. Unless it was prior to 2009, I would be skeptical they were from Aus. In addition, the road from Aus south was re-graded, resulting in the loss through scraping-off of many plants (though, miraculously, some re-sprouted). The name Boophone ernestii-ruschii has been expunged from the databases - I can only presume it wasn't valid in the first place, which leaves a bit of a vacuum. T > Hmm - I am pretty sure Paul Christian also got his sp Aus bulbs from Charles Craib. Unless there was some mistake on Paul's part (since I trust Charle's identification), I am more confident in thinking the sp Aus I got from rareplants is the same as those previously offered. > As for ernestii-ruschii, it's considered to be haemanthoides now. That said, I'd really like more clarification regarding the various Boophone strains, ranges, and habits - but I don't think a molecular genetically-minded grad student has decided to focus on the genus yet. > -| From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: Personal message: Trying to contact Roger Macfarlane Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2013 22:04:48 +0000 (UTC) Roger, If you get this please respond. My messages to you are being returned. Dell From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Thu, 04 Jul 2013 00:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1661749414.1701.1372918838471.JavaMail.www@wwinf1j30> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 08:20:38 +0200 (CEST) Me too and sometimes on asphodelus also. Mark (France) > Message du 03/07/13 21:05 > De : "Peter Taggart" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : Re: [pbs] Kniphofia keikeis > > yes I have seen these > Peter (UK) > > On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 4:15 PM, Dennis Kramb wrote: > > > Is it normal for Kniphofia to produce keikeis? I > > noticed a keikei on one yellow/green flowered Kniphofia. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From buddinglandscapes@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 00:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Donna Rodwell Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 340 Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 16:44:00 +1000 Hi Dell. Could I please purchase the following seeds nos 6, and 15 thank you regards Leigh Rodwell On Jul 3, 2013 11:31 PM, "Dell Sherk" wrote: > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends > to be shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me > PRIVATELY > at . Include "BX 340" in the subject line. > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not > specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, > too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first > come, > first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, > included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of > seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to > ; no money orders, please) you should send the > PBS > treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are > not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership > charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb > Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take > advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the > PBS,(Donors > will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their > donations.), > please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > > >From Marvin Ellenbecker: > > 1. Smallish bulbs of Haemanthus albiflos. > 2. Seed of Freesia laxa, red and a few white > > >From Jonathan Lubar: > > 3. Seed of Zephyranthes drummondii, ex Yucca Do 'San Carlos Form' > 4. Seed of Freesia laxa ssp azurea > 5. Seed of Zephyranthes primulina, ex BX 298 > > >From Stephen Gregg: > > 6. Seed of Drimia maritima (syn Urginea maritima), multiple spikes up to > 1.5 > m > > >From Uli Urban: > > 7. Cormlets of Gladiolus flanaganii > > >From Arnold Trachtenberg: > > 8. Small bulbs of Lachenalia bulbifera > 9. Large corms of Chasmanthe floribunda var. duckittii (few) > 10. Small corms of Moraea setifolia (few) > 11. Seed of Lachenalia nervosa > 12. Seed of Colchicum mixed spp/cvs, open pollinated > > >From Jerry Lehmann: > > 13. Bulbs of Allium canadense, ex Miami County, Kansas, pale pink > > >From Judy Glattstein: > > 14. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Red Lion', open-pollinated > > >From Kipp McMichael: > > 15. Seed of Boophane disticha > > >From Shirley Meneice: > > 16. "Bulbils from that mystery Chasmanthe that grew to 6 feet. Someone on > the PBS list suggested that members might be interested in them since the > parent plant was so different from the standard variety." > > Thank you, Marvin, Jonathan, Stephen, Uli, Arnold, Jerry, Judy, Kipp, and > Shirley !! > > Best wishes, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From contact@bulbargence.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 01:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 10:01:07 +0200 Hello, Probably l must have missed a posting , but can anyone explain what is a "keikeis" Kind greetings South of France (where we are busy harvesting Scilla peruviana , Amaryllis belladonna etc.) Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com -----Original Message----- Me too and sometimes on asphodelus also. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D530E8.9080304@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: washing pumice Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 20:23:04 +1200 So far have sorted out this method of washing pumice. Is there a better way to wash a bigger quantity at a time? Not commercial quantities but a sack full at a time. I used shade cloth in a wire frame work. Will have to peg the cloth down next time. https://picasaweb.google.com/105705718728872493718/ZephyranthesAndHabranthus?authkey=Gv1sRgCJbdvau7oorf4AE#5896671196689020834 Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1372936489.57976.YahooMailNeo@web186005.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: washing pumice Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 12:14:49 +0100 (BST) > So far have sorted out this method of washing pumice.  Is there a better > way to wash a bigger    quantity at a time?  Not commercial quantities > but a sack full at a time. > > I used shade cloth in a wire frame work.  Will have to peg the cloth > down next time. I wash clay non-clumping cat litter, "Sophisticat Pink" here, UK, by filling a leaky bucket and pouring water through it. The fines end up at the bottom. I wash it to release the initial wetting scent which may or may not effect plants. On a larger scale just fill a small water butt or plastic waste bin, with water and pour the pumice in until near the surface of the water, and then let the water out at the bottom, or scoop out the pumice from the top and leave the dirty water behind. I have used a similar technique to recover a particularly wanted grit from used compost. Just swill it around and pour off the organic and fines. The grit stays in the bottom. Brian Whyer, UK From jdbourq@yahoo.co.uk Thu, 04 Jul 2013 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1372942006.42138.YahooMailNeo@web161801.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: "J. Denys Bourque" Subject: Pumice Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 05:46:46 -0700 (PDT) Hi All, I was thinking to crush the pumice stones I kept when our outdoor b-b-q went bust, and spreading the ground material around my hostas.  Might there be any risk of doing so?  I don't want to burn my plants.  Grateful for any advice or insight.   J. Denys Bourque Saint-Jacques, NB   CANADA >________________________________ > From: Ina Crossley >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Sent: Thursday, July 4, 2013 5:23:04 AM >Subject: [pbs] washing pumice > > >So far have sorted out this method of washing pumice.  Is there a better >way to wash a bigger    quantity at a time?  Not commercial quantities >but a sack full at a time. > >I used shade cloth in a wire frame work.  Will have to peg the cloth >down next time. > >https://picasaweb.google.com/105705718728872493718/ZephyranthesAndHabranthus?authkey=Gv1sRgCJbdvau7oorf4AE#5896671196689020834 > >Ina > >-- >Ina Crossley >Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From dkramb@badbear.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 09:58:27 -0400 keikei is a baby plant that forms on the bloom stem. i think the origin of the term is Hawaiian, and it is most commonly used by orchid growers. i know irises will very rarely produce them. some irids commonly produce them. but this was my first time to see one on a Kniphofia... so I was surprised! On Thu, Jul 4, 2013 at 4:01 AM, contact wrote: > Hello, > Probably l must have missed a posting , but can anyone explain what is a > "keikeis" > > Kind greetings South of France (where we are busy harvesting Scilla > peruviana , Amaryllis belladonna etc.) > > Lauw de Jager > http://www.bulbargence.com > > -----Original Message----- > Me too and sometimes on asphodelus also. > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ds429@comcast.net Thu, 04 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <000001ce78d2$8b9312e0$a2b938a0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific BX 340 CLOSED Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 12:19:30 -0400 Packages should go out within the week. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From jamesbwood2000@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Wood Subject: Spider Lilies (Hymenocallis) for trade Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 13:31:46 -0400 I have some Spider Lilies (*Hymenocallis*) for trade. We rescued these bulbs (with permission) from a house/lot on the intercoastal waterway in Palm Beach County, Fl - zone 10. The house and lot will be sold, bulldozed and replaced with a much bigger house. Other Fl natives like Coontie (*Zamia floridana*) were growing in the yard. The lilies were healthy and growing in full sun to very light shade in sandy (Fl sugar sand) well drained soil (these are not swamp spider lilies). The lot was adjacent to the intercoastal so these lilies must be at least salt spray tolerant. I have not seen them bloom and do not know what species they are. I have pictures of them before removal and can take pictures of the bulbs. Here is a guide for when they do bloom ( http://www.freshfromflorida.com/pi/enpp/botany/botcirc/botany-circular-39.pdf). Beautiful elegant white flowers. For trades, I'm interested in rain lilies that I don't already have, other lilies that will do well in humid zone 10, orchids, clumping bamboo, bromeliads and other interesting semi tropical zone 10 plants. Due to customs laws, this offer is for the US only - apologies to our many international friends. Please email me off list if you are interested. Happy July 4th. -- James B. Wood Ph.D. Webmaster of The Cephalopod Page Co-author: "Octopus - The Ocean's Intelligent Invertebrate" "Entrepreneurship is the pursuit of opportunity without regard to resources currently controlled." Stevenson From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: washing pumice Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 10:59:44 -0700 At 01:23 AM 7/4/2013, you wrote: >So far have sorted out this method of washing pumice. Is there a better >way to wash a bigger quantity at a time? Not commercial quantities >but a sack full at a time. Put it in a wide container, such as a wash tub (basin), and run the hose (hosepipe) into it at a fairly high rate. The fines will gradually wash over the side. Jane McGary Portland, oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Thu, 04 Jul 2013 11:01:02 -0700 At 06:58 AM 7/4/2013, you wrote: >keikei is a baby plant that forms on the bloom stem. i think the origin of >the term is Hawaiian, and it is most commonly used by orchid growers. Thanks! I wondered too. The more commonly used term is "plantlet." Jane McGary From othonna@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Spider Lilies (Hymenocallis) for trade Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 11:45:31 -0700 Love the Stevenson quote. * * From kimcmich@hotmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 14:33:20 -0700 Greetings, Paul Christian confirms that his sp Aus bulbs came from Charles Craib - which doesn't mean much, really. I got the bulbs labeled as sp Aus in 2009. What motivates the 2009 cut-off? -| I think it depends a lot on when Christian got the bulbs. Unless it was prior to 2009, I would be skeptical they were from Aus. In addition, the road from Aus south was re-graded, resulting in the loss through scraping-off of many plants (though, miraculously, some re-sprouted). From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <51D5EC77.9000707@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: washing pumice Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 09:43:19 +1200 Brian, pumice floats. Ina On 4/07/2013 11:14 p.m., Brian Whyer wrote: > Just swill it around and pour off the organic and fines. The grit stays in the bottom. > > Brian Whyer, UK -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <51D5ED44.6020302@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: washing pumice Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 09:46:44 +1200 Brian, pumice floats. Actually, not enough to skim it off either, but it doesn't settle at the bottom, which would make life a lot easier if it did. Ina On 4/07/2013 11:14 p.m., Brian Whyer wrote: > Just swill it around and pour off the organic and fines. The grit stays in the bottom. > > Brian Whyer, UK -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 15:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <1372975238.95066.YahooMailNeo@web186005.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: washing pumice Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2013 23:00:38 +0100 (BST) > Brian, pumice floats.  Actually, not enough to skim it off either, but > it doesn't settle at the bottom, which would make life a lot easier if > it did. > > Ina Then I guess wet or dry sieving may be the best technique, if the fines are the same density as the coarser particles. Or pressure wash it with a hose. Brian From klazina1@gmail.com Thu, 04 Jul 2013 16:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51D5F8F5.2050704@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: washing pumice Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 10:36:37 +1200 As Jane McGary also suggested that, I thought I would try that. Pressure hosing the pumice in a larger container, with a bit of a hole at the bottom. The hole quickly got blocked up, so I kept pressure filling the container and pouring of the milky liquid. After 12 lots of that the water still looks as milky as it did at the beginning. And the lawn looks whiter and whiter, no idea what it will do to the grass. And this was supposed to be washed pumice when I got it.... But thank you Brian and Jane. Ina On 5/07/2013 10:00 a.m., Brian Whyer wrote: >> Brian, pumice floats. Actually, not enough to skim it off either, but >> it doesn't settle at the bottom, which would make life a lot easier if >> it did. >> >> Ina > Then I guess wet or dry sieving may be the best technique, if the fines are the same density as the coarser particles. Or pressure wash it with a hose. > > Brian > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 11:20:09 -0500 Dear PBSers, Well Crinum season is serious now in Kansas City. Although a few have peaked, the first of the C. x powellii are opening. And C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo' seedlings are at peak. The big show has been 'annonced' by the appearance of the first spikes (nearly 5 ft tall ) on 'Super Ellen'. C. x powellii is the most available and probably hardiest we have grown in Zone 5 and now Zone 6 (we haven't moved, the zones have). The typical cheap and available in garden center bags is one we do not recommend and have mostly gotten rid of except for 2 large clumps we are too lazy to dig out. These have had NO winter protection for a few years and bloom reliably even this year after last year's 10 months of drought. They are planted deep - a foot or more to the base of the bulbs. I am sure this gives them added hardiness, but also slows down the eager production of pups. It is sterile so no seeds have been seen. C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo' is a seed strain from Les Hannibal via Marcell Sheppard. They too get no added protection, but are planted deeply. Although they are slow to pup, they do eventually. Very distinct in form, foliage and flower they produce abundant seed. We have yet to have a seedling survive on its own, but it may be the easiest Crinum to grow from seed and I have donated hundreds of seed to PBS and many others. There are a range of colors and none are 'dogs'. 'C. 'Super Ellen' is a cross between 'Ellen Bousanquet' (which barely survives here and blooms infrequently) and C. bulbispermum. I mention this one hybrid in particular because it is such a garden star. Foliage gets to 7 feet or longer, flower spikes can tower at 6 ft and rich red flowers are produced in abundance. Slow to pup it does eventually form a huge mass with a knock out display. Highly recommend for a bold garden statement, but needs room. These are just a few of the Crinums we grow - some are very nice in bloom. others stingier to flower, I'd like to ask for more input about the next 2 crinums: C. x herbertii . This is a large number of named and nameless plants derived from crosses between C. scabrum and C. bulbispermum. The former has not proven garden worthy here. It survives, but has bloomed very infrequently. I have been corresponding with a Crinum friend in the S. E. who tells me some clones are hardy into Nebraska which is well north of me. No details about winter care, but I have never tried plants with this parentage. 'Ellen Bousanquet' is 1/2 C. scabrum and it is not a garden plant here either. So I have not had great success with Crinums with C. scabrum in its parentage, but wonder if any specific x. herbertii cvs are reliably hardy, bloom well and make a garden statement. Anyone have success with C. herbertii in Zone 5 or 6? Any one grow 'Cape Dawn' or 'Carnival'? C. variable. Fellow PBSer Jim Shield has had great success with this species in Indiana, a slightly milder climate. In IN this is hardy and self sows in his garden. A couple of years ago, Jim offered seed through the PBS BX and I grew some seedling. At 1 year of age I planted a few in the garden last spring. Then 10 months of drought hit and the plants withered away. I gave up and gave them no special attention and NO winter protection. I was shocked to see all, but one emerged looking just fine and they are growing merrily this wetter year. I have great anticipation for there success. In talking about this with Jim S. he also mentioned he has hybrids between C. variable x C. bulbispermum. This really perked up my ears. These hybrids bloom readily and produce fertile F2 seedlings. Some of these selections are being tested for naming and introduction. Exciting news indeed for northern Crinum growers. So what other potentially hardy crinums are waiting out there? We have at least a dozen named forms and more species and seedlings. Obviouly we need more. Suggestions and experience.? Thanks Jim W. From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <66B89D7510D34348845897EB9234D8254F7E0999AA@MBX12.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:34:36 +0000 Hello All, I am going to try overwintering C. 'Sunbonnet & C. 'Ellen Bosanquet' in my garden this year and we'll see how it does. Many years ago I had C. x powellii and it did great, but I wasn't too impressed at how the flowers looked so it bit the dust. I'm looking for something with good shaped and bold colored flowers that'll take our winters. Regards, Fred Biasella Boston (Cambridge) MA USDA Zone (I have no idea) I think 6b but a lot warmer than it was. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 12:20 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Crinum Season and hardiness... again Dear PBSers, Well Crinum season is serious now in Kansas City. Although a few have peaked, the first of the C. x powellii are opening. And C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo' seedlings are at peak. The big show has been 'annonced' by the appearance of the first spikes (nearly 5 ft tall ) on 'Super Ellen'. C. x powellii is the most available and probably hardiest we have grown in Zone 5 and now Zone 6 (we haven't moved, the zones have). The typical cheap and available in garden center bags is one we do not recommend and have mostly gotten rid of except for 2 large clumps we are too lazy to dig out. These have had NO winter protection for a few years and bloom reliably even this year after last year's 10 months of drought. They are planted deep - a foot or more to the base of the bulbs. I am sure this gives them added hardiness, but also slows down the eager production of pups. It is sterile so no seeds have been seen. C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo' is a seed strain from Les Hannibal via Marcell Sheppard. They too get no added protection, but are planted deeply. Although they are slow to pup, they do eventually. Very distinct in form, foliage and flower they produce abundant seed. We have yet to have a seedling survive on its own, but it may be the easiest Crinum to grow from seed and I have donated hundreds of seed to PBS and many others. There are a range of colors and none are 'dogs'. 'C. 'Super Ellen' is a cross between 'Ellen Bousanquet' (which barely survives here and blooms infrequently) and C. bulbispermum. I mention this one hybrid in particular because it is such a garden star. Foliage gets to 7 feet or longer, flower spikes can tower at 6 ft and rich red flowers are produced in abundance. Slow to pup it does eventually form a huge mass with a knock out display. Highly recommend for a bold garden statement, but needs room. These are just a few of the Crinums we grow - some are very nice in bloom. others stingier to flower, I'd like to ask for more input about the next 2 crinums: C. x herbertii . This is a large number of named and nameless plants derived from crosses between C. scabrum and C. bulbispermum. The former has not proven garden worthy here. It survives, but has bloomed very infrequently. I have been corresponding with a Crinum friend in the S. E. who tells me some clones are hardy into Nebraska which is well north of me. No details about winter care, but I have never tried plants with this parentage. 'Ellen Bousanquet' is 1/2 C. scabrum and it is not a garden plant here either. So I have not had great success with Crinums with C. scabrum in its parentage, but wonder if any specific x. herbertii cvs are reliably hardy, bloom well and make a garden statement. Anyone have success with C. herbertii in Zone 5 or 6? Any one grow 'Cape Dawn' or 'Carnival'? C. variable. Fellow PBSer Jim Shield has had great success with this species in Indiana, a slightly milder climate. In IN this is hardy and self sows in his garden. A couple of years ago, Jim offered seed through the PBS BX and I grew some seedling. At 1 year of age I planted a few in the garden last spring. Then 10 months of drought hit and the plants withered away. I gave up and gave them no special attention and NO winter protection. I was shocked to see all, but one emerged looking just fine and they are growing merrily this wetter year. I have great anticipation for there success. In talking about this with Jim S. he also mentioned he has hybrids between C. variable x C. bulbispermum. This really perked up my ears. These hybrids bloom readily and produce fertile F2 seedlings. Some of these selections are being tested for naming and introduction. Exciting news indeed for northern Crinum growers. So what other potentially hardy crinums are waiting out there? We have at least a dozen named forms and more species and seedlings. Obviouly we need more. Suggestions and experience.? Thanks Jim W. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 11:37:27 -0700 I'd like to try a Crinum in my new, warmer garden, but need to know if there are any kinds that can flower without a high summer heat and humidity. I have a damp corner near a water feature that might suit one, and the water would raise the humidity locally, but our "heat waves" typically last about three days, and summer night temperatures typically drop into the 50s F. Any recommendations from other cool-summer areas? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From russell@odysseybulbs.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <20130705191535.499DEE9554@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Russell Stafford, Odyssey Bulbs" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:08:19 -0400 C. lineare and C. variabile are the two species from the Cape. According to Brian Mathew, "they will behave as winter-growers and require a dry summer while dormant." Russell At 02:37 PM 7/5/2013, you wrote: >I'd like to try a Crinum in my new, warmer garden, but need to know >if there are any kinds that can flower without a high summer heat and >humidity. I have a damp corner near a water feature that might suit >one, and the water would raise the humidity locally, but our "heat >waves" typically last about three days, and summer night temperatures >typically drop into the 50s F. > >Any recommendations from other cool-summer areas? > >Jane McGary >Portland, Oregon, USA > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs From jshields@indy.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130705150243.037851d0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:16:05 -0400 Hi all, I am well into my Crinum bulbispermum bloom season here in central Indiana. The plants even grow out in the open field. I tried C. "Sunbonnet" and C. "Super Ellen" out in the open garden a couple years ago. The 'Sunbonnet" never came up. The 'Super Ellen" came up and bloomed the following year, but is not there this year. C. 'Ellen Bosanquet" did not survive outdoors, no even right up against the south wall of my greenhouse. I agree that C. x-powellii are barely worth growing. The white powellii are marginally better than the pink ones. C. bulbispermum and especially C. variabile are just as hardy if not more so, and look much much better than x-powellii when in bloom. The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From zigur@hotmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: BX340 Boophone and others Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 12:22:08 -0700 2009 was his last visit there. T > Paul Christian confirms that his sp Aus bulbs came from Charles Craib - which doesn't mean much, really. I got the bulbs labeled as sp Aus in 2009. What motivates the 2009 cut-off? From jshields@indy.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130705151723.03785318@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:27:54 -0400 This may well be true for best growth of Crinum lineare, but C. variabile is an opportunistic grower, and grows outdoors in the ground here in Indiana is summer, blooms in August-September, and is dormant in winter. Opportunistic, not winter-growing. My plants of C. lineare are forced to grow in summer, and might do better if allowed to grow in the warm greenhouse in winter instead. Sadly, they are out of luck on this count. I wonder if C. variabile was ever given a real chance to grow opportunistically before? I had been growing the seedlings of variabile in winter inside the greenhouse, and they were doing very poorly. They were left warm, dry, and dormant in storage in summers. They barely grew over several years. I was on the verge of simply pitching them, when Jim Waddick's nagging about how hardy crinums were made me plant some of them outdoors in the ground instead. (If I was going to kill them anyway, I might as well experiment on the way, right?) I was astounded to see that they actually flourished in the ground, outdoors all year around. This is not the first time the Brits have been wrong about growing things in North America. Jim Shields At 03:08 PM 7/5/2013 -0400, you wrote: >C. lineare and C. variabile are the two species from the Cape. >According to Brian Mathew, "they will behave as winter-growers and >require a dry summer while dormant." > >Russell ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <51D7230C.3010703@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: eBay buying of Hippeastrums Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:48:28 +1200 On Facebook Mariano Saviellowarns about an eBay seller of Hippeastrums from Tarnow, Poland who is cheating buyers. Does anyone on the PBS buy Hippeastrums from eBay? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jshields@indy.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130705154725.03785460@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:57:56 -0400 Hi all, An interesting thing to compare between Crinum bulbispermum growing free in the garden here and C. variabile growing the same way: Seed production. Crinum bulbispermum is in full bloom here (in the ground) right now, and has been blooming for 2 or 3 weeks already, at least this year. It is producing huge seed crops, and has done so in past years. (Should I send some to the BX again?) Crinum variabile blooms in August or September, continuing on into October. It produces few if any seeds unless I hand pollinate the flowers myself. (Anyone want any of these seeds again this year?) I think the pollinators for bulbispermum are the various native Hawk Moths or Sphinx Moths (same family), which fly and visit flowers at dusk here. I suspect that by late August, there are no crepuscular-flying moths left here in the adult form -- they are probably either still larvae eating leaves or already pupated below ground, waiting for next spring. Incidentally, the hybrid [variabile x bulbispermum] blooms in between bulbispermum and variabile, and also sets spontaneous seeds without my personal intervention. However, I get somewhat more seeds from the hybrids if I also hand-pollinate them as well. Curious, isn't it? Jim Shields Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From othonna@gmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 13:21:10 -0700 Jim, I had similar experience with C. variabile years ago. Seedlings were never happy at any time of year and did not "jump" in winter with cool nights and short days, in spite of the climate in their place of origin being similar to that of Los Angeles. I think you are right about them being opportunistic and this likely reflects the opportunism of a long day, summer rainfall genus that crept into the Cape area. Or maybe the climate moved on the plants, so to speak. Dylan * * From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Fri, 05 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:44:14 -0400 I certainly would be interested in trying crinum bulbispermum up against a south wall planted very deeply and mulched in my zone 5 (it did behave like zone 6 lately on a number of occasions, though. Not the same as forty years ago), if I could grow it from seed and plant out when the bulbs are larger. This way losses would not be so painful... financially, that is. Taking into consideration the providence of the seed, it is worth a try. Nothing risked, nothing gained! Bea in Ontario -----Original Message----- From: J.E. Shields Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 3:57 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum Season and hardiness... again Crinum bulbispermum is in full bloom here (in the ground) right now, and has been blooming for 2 or 3 weeks already, at least this year. It is producing huge seed crops, and has done so in past years. (Should I send some to the BX again?) Crinum variabile blooms in August or September, continuing on into October. It produces few if any seeds unless I hand pollinate the flowers myself. (Anyone want any of these seeds again this year?) From russell@odysseybulbs.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <20130705212059.48149E8B0D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Russell Stafford, Odyssey Bulbs" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:13:43 -0400 By "winter-grower", Mathew means it behaves as a Mediterranean species -- with most growth (above and below ground) occurring from fall through spring. Crinum lineare flowers from early to late summer in the wild; C. variabile from summer to late autumn. This according to Goldblatt et. al. Plants are evergreen in the wild. C. variabile occurs in streambeds in the NW Cape, a region that is almost desert-like in places. C. lineare is a coastal SE Cape native (occurring in sand), where the climate is relatively moist compared to the NW. All of you may already know all of this, but it's interesting to note the differences in habitats. Russell At 03:27 PM 7/5/2013, you wrote: >This may well be true for best growth of Crinum lineare, but C. variabile >is an opportunistic grower, and grows outdoors in the ground here in >Indiana is summer, blooms in August-September, and is dormant in >winter. Opportunistic, not winter-growing. Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <92B4526A-A60F-4DE0-A29F-B64AA35B6753@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum hardiness... in Ontario ? Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:23:27 -0500 Dear Bea and all, Your comments are exactly what I promote regarding C. bulbispermum. Since it is slow to pup and so easy from seed. - Plant seed as soon as ripe (I can send some to you if you'd like from My Zone 5/6 Kansas City MO location). Keep them indoors and growing as long as they will over winter. If you are lucky they'll look like a puny scallion in spring. Plant them deep- just a fringe of foliage showing, in full sun and water well. Mulch pretty weel the first winter, then little to none. Should bloom in a few years after and just get better. Jim W. On Jul 5, 2013, at 3:44 PM, B Spencer wrote: > I certainly would be interested in trying crinum bulbispermum up against a > south wall planted very deeply and mulched in my zone 5 (it did behave like > zone 6 lately on a number of occasions, though. Not the same as forty years > ago), if I could grow it from seed and plant out when the bulbs are larger. > This way losses would not be so painful... financially, that is. Taking into > consideration the providence of the seed, it is worth a try. Nothing risked, > nothing gained! > Bea in Ontario From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <2A0903A2-D9A0-44F0-AB71-AEB289AE2BC4@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:27:35 -0500 Dear Jim S. and all, > > I tried C. "Sunbonnet" and C. "Super Ellen" out in the open garden a couple > years ago. The 'Sunbonnet" never came up. The 'Super Ellen" came up and > bloomed the following year, but is not there this year. C. 'Ellen > Bosanquet" did not survive outdoors, no even right up against the south > wall of my greenhouse. I have 2 'Sunbonnet'. One is a wimp and may not make it through the season, the other more vigorous, but neither bloomed. 'Super Ellen' Is fabulous and highly regarded here. 'Ellen Bousanquet' very disappointing, but survives and barely blooms. Neither Sunbonnet or Ellen B are recommended. > > I agree that C. x-powellii are barely worth growing. The white powellii > are marginally better than the pink ones. I think x powellii alba is quite nice and many times better than most typical pink x powellii. There are some named siblings that are a shade better, but forget powellii if you can choose better. > The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my > climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. When will these hit the garden centers? ... commerce? Thanks Jim W. From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum - opportunistic grower? Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:30:56 -0500 Dear Jim and all, I like this concept as it applies to many bulbs and other plants that adjust their growing cycles to local climate and temperature swings. Just look at the range of experiences shared about Dracunculus vulgaris. Emergence and bloom time seemed all over the place, but if the plant is 'happy' it copes and does just fine. So far I am impressed with C. variable, but eager to get good growth this summer and bloom some year soon. Best Jim W. On Jul 5, 2013, at 2:27 PM, J.E. Shields wrote: > This may well be true for best growth of Crinum lineare, but C. variabile > is an opportunistic grower, and grows outdoors in the ground here in > Indiana is summer, blooms in August-September, and is dormant in > winter. Opportunistic, not winter-growing. From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: eBay buying of Hippeastrums Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 14:41:28 -0700 Ina, I've purchased Hippeastrums from seller rskusd, My Garden Colors, & Hiroko Torikai of Komoriya nursery on EBay. All were very positive transactions. Karl Church On Jul 5, 2013 12:47 PM, "Ina Crossley" wrote: > On Facebook Mariano Saviellowarns about an eBay seller of Hippeastrums > from Tarnow, Poland who is cheating buyers. Does anyone on the PBS buy > Hippeastrums from eBay? > > Ina > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <5E85F90A-DCD3-4E9C-B7F1-EC366DF59F9F@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again (+ Hymenocallis) Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 14:51:18 -0700 I had a question about Crinum as well. And since Jim W. and Jane both asked questions about trying to grow Crinums in their climates, I have a question, not about _cold_ hardiness per se, but about trying to get certain Crinum species to thrive in my dry southern California climate. I am wondering which of all the Crinum species benefits from, or requires, being either partially submerged in water, or at minimum, kept in a saucer that always has water in it, during the growing season. I've seen photos from some of our southeastern USA Crinum growers where they get plenty of rain and they keep a number of their potted Crinums (and Hymenocallis, too) species mostly submerged in tubs of water. Which of the Crinum species should I either submerge in water or keep in saucers filled with water, especially in my completely non-rainy-summer climate? Also, which Hymenocallis species also require or desire the same treatment? Thanks in advance! --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m From klazina1@gmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <51D7408E.6090403@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: eBay buying of Hippeastrums Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 09:54:22 +1200 I was just passing on a warning. It was not that seller who the warning was about. As itis not my personal experience I don't mention any names. Thank you Karl. Glad you had a good experience. Ina On 6/07/2013 9:41 a.m., Karl Church wrote: > Ina, I've purchased Hippeastrums from seller rskusd, My Garden Colors, & > Hiroko Torikai of Komoriya nursery on EBay. All were very positive > transactions. > Karl Church > On Jul 5, 2013 12:47 PM, "Ina Crossley" wrote: > >> On Facebook Mariano Saviellowarns about an eBay seller of Hippeastrums >> from Tarnow, Poland who is cheating buyers. Does anyone on the PBS buy >> Hippeastrums from eBay? >> >> Ina >> >> -- >> Ina Crossley >> Auckland New Zealand zone 10a >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From ksayce@willapabay.org Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <88686067-52BE-4619-9955-FB443BE046B2@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 15:06:34 -0700 I've grown Crinum x powellii on the coast of WA, SW corner, for years. It flowers late, usually in August. I also have a slowly increasing bulb of C. bulbispermum, which has yet to flower for me. So I would have to say that lack of heat units doesn't deter the first one from flowering, it simply delays it. Kathleen From jshields@indy.net Fri, 05 Jul 2013 15:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130705174759.037855a8@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 05 Jul 2013 18:15:07 -0400 Ask Tony Avent -- he has the good ones. I sent most of the seeds from that cross to Tony. I'm completely out of the business! Jim Shields At 04:27 PM 7/5/2013 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Jim S. and all, > > >...... > > > The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my > > climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. > > When will these hit the garden centers? ... > commerce? Thanks Jim W. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From hornig@oswego.edu Fri, 05 Jul 2013 17:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 19:35:57 -0400 To my (extreme) surprise, several C. bulbispermum that I planted out (not near the house) here in Shrewsbury MA, just east of Worcester (zone 6-ish, with good snow cover this winter), came through the winter just fine. They didn't limp through - they leafed out early and with conviction. They were roughly 3-4 years old from seed, and had previously overwintered in my Oswego, NY garden. No flowers yet, but definitely healthy plants. Other bulb news: Albuca fastigiata rotted, but A. humilis overwintered so well, and self-sowed so freely, that I will be more cautious with it hereafter, and will deadhead it. Rhodohypoxis baurii overwintered fine and bloomed well (pinks, whites and a lovely dark pink form). Like the other S Africans, these are on an east-facing slope in sandy loam mulched with a ground bark mulch - not necessarily what you'd think of as good for small bulbs. In the same conditions some Gladiolus dalenii (a collection from Dawie Human that tends towards tans and reds rather than yellows and oranges) fared well, but I think most of my orange/yellow types perished. Tritonia disticha looks good, T. dracomontana is gone. Gladiolus oppositiflorus salmoneus came through, but not too well; G. saundersii was fine; G. crassifolius has disappeared; and - the real surprise - G. aurianticus overwintered well. This bloomed two years ago in pots, and was the real thing. It didn't bloom in the garden last year so I'll be interested to see if it does this year. Gladiolus 'Boone', that old stalwart, 5 feet from the G. aurianticus, is limping back in the form of smaller corms and bulblets. Galtonia candicans, G. viridiflora and/or G. regalis (I'm not entirely sure what I have there) are all back and in bud. Most of my eucomis died, but good old 'Peace Candles' came back like a champ, and a few of a dwarf E. autumnalis situated in the driest part of the garden did fine, while others from the same batch in a less dry area all rotted. A couple of Zantedeschia albomaculata came through, albeit weakly, as did a few Z. aethiopica from the eastern Cape (also small and sad-looking, but technically alive, with, I would assume, few prospects). Kniphofia uvaria from the eastern Cape did fine. All in all, interesting and somewhat unexpected. I'm guessing that a cold dry winter will do lots more damage, when it inevitably comes along. Ellen On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 6:06 PM, Kathleen Sayce wrote: > I've grown Crinum x powellii on the coast of WA, SW corner, for years. It > flowers late, usually in August. I also have a slowly increasing bulb of C. > bulbispermum, which has yet to flower for me. So I would have to say that > lack of heat units doesn't deter the first one from flowering, it simply > delays it. > > Kathleen > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From Tony@plantdelights.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 18:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 20:35:48 -0400 We just made final selections last year, so now we cut the basal plate of the final selections and wait for them to offset. The rate of offset will be the determining factor when they reach market, but they are truly amazing plants. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of J.E. Shields Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 6:15 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum Season and hardiness... again Ask Tony Avent -- he has the good ones. I sent most of the seeds from that cross to Tony. I'm completely out of the business! Jim Shields At 04:27 PM 7/5/2013 -0500, you wrote: >Dear Jim S. and all, > > >...... > > > The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my > > climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. > > When will these hit the garden centers? ... > commerce? Thanks Jim W. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From Tony@plantdelights.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 18:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Crinum bulbispermum Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 20:41:08 -0400 Jim: Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. We grew several hundred Crinum bulbispermum a few years ago from seed collected in one of our crinum trial beds, curious if there was any crossing going on. Well, the plants still aren't flowering size, but it is very obvious now from the foliage variation and size that there is quite a bit of cross breeding happening. I'll be very interested to see what results. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 5:23 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum hardiness... in Ontario ? Dear Bea and all, Your comments are exactly what I promote regarding C. bulbispermum. Since it is slow to pup and so easy from seed. - Plant seed as soon as ripe (I can send some to you if you'd like from My Zone 5/6 Kansas City MO location). Keep them indoors and growing as long as they will over winter. If you are lucky they'll look like a puny scallion in spring. Plant them deep- just a fringe of foliage showing, in full sun and water well. Mulch pretty weel the first winter, then little to none. Should bloom in a few years after and just get better. Jim W. On Jul 5, 2013, at 3:44 PM, B Spencer wrote: > I certainly would be interested in trying crinum bulbispermum up against a > south wall planted very deeply and mulched in my zone 5 (it did behave like > zone 6 lately on a number of occasions, though. Not the same as forty years > ago), if I could grow it from seed and plant out when the bulbs are larger. > This way losses would not be so painful... financially, that is. Taking into > consideration the providence of the seed, it is worth a try. Nothing risked, > nothing gained! > Bea in Ontario From leo@possi.org Fri, 05 Jul 2013 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <16d5a1b1b96f0a57e5c644d55f7c6a07.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 21:05:16 -0700 (PDT) Hi Lee, > I had a question about Crinum as well.... I have a question, > not about _cold_ hardiness per se, but about trying to get > certain Crinum species to thrive in my dry southern California > climate. > I am wondering which of all the Crinum species benefit from, > or require, being either partially submerged in water, or at > minimum, kept in a saucer that always has water in it, during > the growing season. > ...(and Hymenocallis, too) I've tried several species of South African Crinum from seed here in Phoenix, Arizona. They don't need to be sitting in water. They grow just fine with regular watering. I have read there are aquatic species but I don't think most of us are growing those. They won't bloom in containers. They reach a certain size and stop growing. The hybrid Ellen Bosanquet survives in my garden - and is evergreen - on rain alone. We average 8 inches annually, summer and winter. Our spring is extremely hot and dry without rain for 3 months or more. It will not bloom unless I give it extra water, in which case it blooms well. I am not worried about it invading the desert, though it is tough. Hymenocallis I can't even keep alive unless they are standing in water. In the warm water of my pond they burst the pot every year or so, and bloom reliably. If I had known puppies would chew them I would have three kinds instead of one. If any of you got the seed of H. sonorense I sent to the seed bank a while back, please try and set some seed to send to Dell - this is a plant my puppies killed. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <9D12F3EA-A357-4822-80F1-3CC98AED9169@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum variable x bulbispermum Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 23:16:40 -0500 Dear Tony, Have any pix of these hybrids to share? Don't have to be final selection, but perhaps the range of features. Thanks Jim On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:35 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > We just made final selections last year, so now we cut the basal plate of the final selections and wait for them to offset. The rate of offset will be the determining factor when they reach market, but they are truly amazing plants. From othonna@gmail.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 21:18:45 -0700 Leo, Some of the deciduous Hymenocallis that often have petiolate, relatively broad glaucous leaves should do well for you. They include H. glauca, H. cleo, H. azteciana, H. guerreroensis and H. durangoensis. They tend to be solitary. The clumping "swamp types" and evergreen species would be more difficult in a desert climate I imagine. Dylan On 5 July 2013 21:05, Leo A. Martin wrote: > Hi Lee, > > > I had a question about Crinum as well.... I have a question, > > not about _cold_ hardiness per se, but about trying to get > > certain Crinum species to thrive in my dry southern California > > climate. > > > I am wondering which of all the Crinum species benefit from, > > or require, being either partially submerged in water, or at > > minimum, kept in a saucer that always has water in it, during > > the growing season. > > ...(and Hymenocallis, too) > > I've tried several species of South African Crinum from seed here in > Phoenix, Arizona. > They don't need to be sitting in water. They grow just fine with regular > watering. I > have read there are aquatic species but I don't think most of us are > growing those. > > They won't bloom in containers. They reach a certain size and stop growing. > > The hybrid Ellen Bosanquet survives in my garden - and is evergreen - on > rain alone. We > average 8 inches annually, summer and winter. Our spring is extremely hot > and dry > without rain for 3 months or more. It will not bloom unless I give it > extra water, in > which case it blooms well. I am not worried about it invading the desert, > though it is > tough. > > Hymenocallis I can't even keep alive unless they are standing in water. In > the warm > water of my pond they burst the pot every year or so, and bloom reliably. > If I had known > puppies would chew them I would have three kinds instead of one. If any of > you got the > seed of H. sonorense I sent to the seed bank a while back, please try and > set some seed > to send to Dell - this is a plant my puppies killed. > > Leo Martin > Phoenix Arizona USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- * "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."Proverbs 14:23 * From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 05 Jul 2013 22:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum bulbispermum Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 23:28:13 -0500 Dear Tony, All my bulbispermum originated from Marcel Shepperd direct from Les Hannibal although I may have some direct from Les, too. I always though they did not pup, but after some years in the ground, some are making offsets. In addition to this, seedlings from these original 'Jumbos' have also offset. One made an offset about the time it came into bloom and one even offset while still in the seedling pot. Now these may possibly be hybrids, but we have little else that blooms at the same time (x powellii) and the plants and seedlings all look just like typical bulbispermum with almost no foliage or form variation. Admittedly there could be some variation since these are all seed grown, but the variation would come (I think 100%) from the Hannibal plants. How old is your oldest plant in the ground? Odd these differences here and there. I'll go check by light of day and report. Jim W. On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > Jim: > > Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. ..... Well, the plants still aren't flowering size, but it is very obvious now from the foliage variation and size that there is quite a bit of cross breeding happening. From awilson@avonia.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <30306BC7553C408DA457ADA6B87D8D13@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Clivia caulescens Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 23:23:34 -0700 I was presented with a few young specimens of Clivia caulescens some months ago. While referred to in the genus introduction, there is no entry there for this species. It seems like a worthwhile task. In the meanwhile, while I am guessing the most appropriate location for it, can somebody advise on how its demands in the garden differ from forms of C. nobilis, C. miniata, etc? Thanks Andrew San Diego From jshields@indy.net Sat, 06 Jul 2013 06:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130706082857.039d3068@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Clivia caulescens Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 08:36:00 -0400 Andrew, Clivia caulescens can tolerate direct sun, since it grows out on top of the rocky spire known as "The Pinacles" in the South African preserves at God's Window. It also can be seen growing in the crotches of trees and sprawling over rocks. I would suggest partial to light shade, although San Diego is probably close to the same latitude as God's Window. One point: God's Window and the Drakensberg generally get a substantial amount of rainfall compared to San Diego, so I would water regularly. Generally, I would say the C. caulescens and C. nobilis can both take much more sunlight than miniata, gardenii, and robusta. On the other hand, Leo should probably use some shade even for caulescens in Phoenix. Jim Shields At 11:23 PM 7/5/2013 -0700, you wrote: >I was presented with a few young specimens of Clivia caulescens some months >ago. While referred to in the genus introduction, there is no entry there >for this species. It seems like a worthwhile task. > >In the meanwhile, while I am guessing the most appropriate location for it, >can somebody advise on how its demands in the garden differ from forms of C. >nobilis, C. miniata, etc? Thanks > >Andrew >San Diego > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From pcamusa@hotmail.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 06:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:04:40 -0400 Hi All- Crinum x powellii bulbs from BX 288 (ex Waddick) have done very well here in southeast Michigan (just an hour from S. Canada) after two winters. Plants are growing vigorously both close to the foundation and a very exposed position. Another year and I'll start expecting blooms. A small Super Ellen bulb survived this past winter in a moderately protected area near Crocosmia 'Lucifer' so I'm encouraged to try a few more. Regards, Phil > From: jwaddick@kc.rr.com > Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 16:27:35 -0500 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum Season and hardiness... again > > Dear Jim S. and all, > > > > I tried C. "Sunbonnet" and C. "Super Ellen" out in the open garden a couple > > years ago. The 'Sunbonnet" never came up. The 'Super Ellen" came up and > > bloomed the following year, but is not there this year. C. 'Ellen > > Bosanquet" did not survive outdoors, no even right up against the south > > wall of my greenhouse. > > I have 2 'Sunbonnet'. One is a wimp and may not make it through the season, the other more vigorous, but neither bloomed. 'Super Ellen' Is fabulous and highly regarded here. 'Ellen Bousanquet' very disappointing, but survives and barely blooms. Neither Sunbonnet or Ellen B are recommended. > > > > > I agree that C. x-powellii are barely worth growing. The white powellii > > are marginally better than the pink ones. > > I think x powellii alba is quite nice and many times better than most typical pink x powellii. There are some named siblings that are a shade better, but forget powellii if you can choose better. > > > > The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my > > climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. > > When will these hit the garden centers? ... commerce? Thanks Jim W. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pcamusa@hotmail.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "P. C. Andrews" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... Zone 11/drought Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:19:08 -0400 Hi Jim- Not related to hardiness directly (although I swear there must be a link between drought resistance and hardiness for some plants) but some of your crosses of bulbispermum with roseum, macowanii, and others have done superbly in Zone 10/11 for the past 9 years, surviving extreme heat and drought while blooming reliably. Curiously, F2s of the bulbispermum x roseum have been weak growers. I look forward to trying the variabile x bulbispermum when available. Regards, Phil > Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2013 18:15:07 -0400 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > From: jshields@indy.net > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum Season and hardiness... again > > Ask Tony Avent -- he has the good ones. I sent most of the seeds from that > cross to Tony. I'm completely out of the business! > > Jim Shields > > > At 04:27 PM 7/5/2013 -0500, you wrote: > >Dear Jim S. and all, > > > > >...... > > > > > The best for hardy outdoors crinums in my > > > climate are the hybrid, Crinum [variabile x bulbispermum]. > > > > When will these hit the garden centers? ... > > commerce? Thanks Jim W. > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From plantnut@cox.net Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Joseph Kraatz Subject: Clivia caulescens Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 06:27:27 -0700 I grow all species and many hybrids of Clivia. They are all under the same conditions. Under canopies of trees with watering when they are close to dry. The only real difference between C. nobilis and C. caulescens is that caulescens has a long 'neck'. It is the tallest growing of all species. Joe On Jul 5, 2013, at 11:23 PM, "AW" wrote: > I was presented with a few young specimens of Clivia caulescens some months > ago. While referred to in the genus introduction, there is no entry there > for this species. It seems like a worthwhile task. > > In the meanwhile, while I am guessing the most appropriate location for it, > can somebody advise on how its demands in the garden differ from forms of C. > nobilis, C. miniata, etc? Thanks > > Andrew > San Diego > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From oldtulips@gmail.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <213903D3-004B-41A6-8737-8DE8325DD84F@gmail.com> From: Rimmer de Vries Subject: Clivia caulescens Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:28:32 -0400 I grow it in a pot just like the C minuata hybrids stored in basement in winter . it blooms much later in summer -August here in SE Michigan It seems to like a moister mix than the others and makes a neater plant Mine came from Jim Shields Rimmer Near Ann Arbor , Mi On Jul 6, 2013, at 2:23 AM, "AW" wrote: > I was presented with a few young specimens of Clivia caulescens some months > ago. While referred to in the genus introduction, there is no entry there > for this species. It seems like a worthwhile task. > > In the meanwhile, while I am guessing the most appropriate location for it, > can somebody advise on how its demands in the garden differ from forms of C. > nobilis, C. miniata, etc? Thanks > > Andrew > San Diego > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From leo@possi.org Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Crinum Season and hardiness... again Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:31:29 -0700 (PDT) Hi Dylan, > ...I had similar experience with C. variabile years ago. > Seedlings were never happy at any time of year and did > not "jump" in winter with cool nights and short days, > in spite of the climate in their place of origin being > similar to that of Los Angeles. They grow well here in Arizona during fall-winter-spring but only with lots of root room. I doubt they would bloom in a container small enough for anybody to move without power equipment. They are evergreen if kept watered year round. At first I sprouted them, then planted into 3.25" / 8cm plastic containers. They would make a leaf or two and stop growing. Then I started moving new sprouts to 1 gallon / 3.7l nursery containers. They grow a little more, to perhaps golf ball size, then stop growing. At this point I put some in a 24" / 61cm diameter and deep container. They grew a little more and stopped growing. I also tried setting the containers in my pond. This didn't change things at all. I haven't tried them in the ground yet because I don't have a dog-proof area now. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Zantedeschia was Crinum Season... Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:47:30 -0700 (PDT) Ellen wrote > ...Shrewsbury MA, just east of Worcester (zone 6-ish... > ...a few Z. aethiopica from the eastern Cape [survived] > (also small and sad-looking, but technically alive, with, > I would assume, few prospects). When I was a child visiting my grandparents in Milwaukee, Wisconsin (now zone 5b but probably colder then) there was a house nearby with a thriving bed of Z. aethiopica, running along the entire west side of the house. This was about 5 1/2 miles / 8.3km from Lake Michigan. With the placement of the house next door, this bed received quite a bit of summer sun but very little winter sun. Winters in Milwaukee have featured very much less snow for many years now than when I was a child, and I have not seen that house for a long time. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Kniphofia keikeis Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 09:54:06 -0700 (PDT) Hi Dennis, > Is it normal for Kniphofia to produce keikeis? Aloe species will occasionally produce plants from bracts on inflorescences. Kniphofia is very closely related to Aloe - some would say the genera should be united. (But others would disagree.) Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: grow shops Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 10:03:14 -0700 (PDT) Diana mentioned > ...'grow shops' that cater to the cannabis industry. Here in Arizona they don't mention that genus. They sell to people who want to grow vegetables indoors under high-pressure sodium lights. They are a constant source of fresh rooting hormone gel, which was formerly not that easy to get. Wonder why most of it comes from Canada? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sat, 06 Jul 2013 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: b-b-q stones was Pumice Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 10:07:11 -0700 (PDT) Hi Denys, > I was thinking to crush the pumice stones I kept > when our outdoor b-b-q went bust, and spreading > the ground material around my hostas.? Don't breathe the dust. Get the stones wet first and wear a mask. There may be fat from cooking in the stones. This might attract badgers, skunks, foxes, dogs and cats which might dig up your hostas. I don't think it would harm your plants. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 06 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: grow shops Date: Sat, 06 Jul 2013 11:04:16 -0700 There is a "grow shop" near my home, and it's a great source for many hobby growers' needs. They have a warehouse stocking more than twenty kinds of potting medium, and I can sort through the ingredient lists to find one that just suits my bulb and alpine seedlings and other container plants; usually I add some sand or pumice. I also find irrigation items and non-toxic insect treatments there. This week they're advertising ladybugs, and they've added a small selection of native plants. I don't care if my purchases end up in a federal record -- I probably already have one from college radical days in the sixties. Maybe these are "gateway" garden centers that will draw into specialized ornamental gardening some of the young people our garden groups are always worried about attracting? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 10:03 AM 7/6/2013, you wrote: >Diana mentioned > > > ...'grow shops' that cater to the cannabis industry. > >Here in Arizona they don't mention that genus. They sell to people >who want to grow >vegetables indoors under high-pressure sodium lights. They are a >constant source of >fresh rooting hormone gel, which was formerly not that easy to get. >Wonder why most of >it comes from Canada? > >Leo Martin From awilson@avonia.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Clivia caulescens Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 13:20:56 -0700 Thanks, Jim, Joe and Rimmer for your guidance. Clivia species do well here, all needing at least some shade. I had been growing the C. caulescens in sun, forgetting the genus, but when I saw a slight yellowing of the foliage I woke up and sent in the message. The sun is very intense here at this time of year. Andrew San Diego From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 06 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 16:09:56 -0500 On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > > Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. Dear Tony and all, Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each. Seedlings from these have no or a couple offsets each. None of them form dense clumps like xpowellii. They look VERY similar in all physical aspects. Best Jim From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Sat, 06 Jul 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Zantedeschia was Crinum Season... Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2013 17:37:10 -0400 Years ago a friend of mine down the road grew some kind of zantedeschia on the north side of the house. It was not eathiopica though. I think it was pink. The house was an old farm house with field stone foundation and the basement was probably not insulated, as the old farmhouses tend to be, so I think there was quite a bit of heat loss in winter since the furnace was in the basement. Possibly the soil so close to the house did not freeze at all. We are officially in zone 5b and about, I guess 60 km, from lake Ontario. Do not underestimate the influence of a body of water that large. Toronto, which is only maybe 50 km from us is zone 6 and not including the fact that it is a concrete heat sink. Southwestern Ontario owes its relatively balmy climate (for Canada that is) to the fact that it is wedged between three big lakes. When I was a child visiting my grandparents in Milwaukee, Wisconsin (now zone 5b but probably colder then) there was a house nearby with a thriving bed of Z. aethiopica, running along the entire west side of the house. This was about 5 1/2 miles / 8.3km from Lake Michigan. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1A72FC57-926A-46D8-9AD7-5413995025AD@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 18:55:01 +1000 I have grown lots of Crinum bulbispermum from seed, I've found in my conditions they grow very fast. I have a number of mature specimens in a hot dry North Western aspect where they cop brutal seasonal winds scorching ground baking heat in summer & into the minor zeros for short bursts in winter, they are in poor shale type soil over solid rock, improved by tilling well composted green waste below surface level to about 6" deep.. I too have only ever had a couple of pups out of about 15 very healthy mature plants.. Seed is readily available online, very affordable, fast growing & virus free. Seed or plants are definitely the easiest way to get more flowers in your garden. It would also be interesting to know if they are able to be tissue cultured ??? I would love to reproduce some of the smaller hybridized colours I was given. Steven : ) Queensland Australia On 07/07/2013, at 7:09 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: >> >> >> Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. > > Dear Tony and all, > > > Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each. > > Seedlings from these have no or a couple offsets each. None of them form dense clumps like xpowellii. > > They look VERY similar in all physical aspects. Best Jim > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1373201641.68272.YahooMailClassic@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 05:54:01 -0700 (PDT) Some of my bulbispermum from seed from Jim Waddick offset well here in Tennessee. Sadly, I really don't care for this cabbage-lke plant with a leaf to flower ratio of 95:5 for my small garden. Also the number of seeds produced is ridiculous and each germinates and survives my winters. This year I've taken to ripping out the stalks and mowing them while in young fruit.  The variabile X bulbispermum hybrids sound promising, but maybe campanulatum should be thrown in to the mix as well? This only flowers for me if kept submerged year round in my bog garden, freezes and all. It was hardy in the ground, but never flowered without the excess water. It also has the benefit of flowering in late April to early May.  Aaron PS My seed grown Ammocharis coranica flowered this spring after 12 years and it was a little bit of a let down for only two days were of moth-ball scented flowers.   --- On Sun, 7/7/13, James Waddick wrote: From: James Waddick Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013, 5:09 AM     On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > > > Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. Dear Tony and all,     Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each.  From jshields@indy.net Sun, 07 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130707104239.037fcc80@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:44:37 -0400 Hi Aaron, At 05:54 AM 7/7/2013 -0700, you wrote: >........ > The variabile X bulbispermum hybrids sound promising, but maybe > campanulatum should be thrown in to the mix as well? This only flowers > for me if kept submerged year round in my bog garden, freezes and all. It > was hardy in the ground, but never flowered without the excess water. It > also has the benefit of flowering in late April to early May. > > Aaron C. campanulatum has refused to set seed for me, not even with bulbispermum pollen. Maybe I should try it outdoor in the ground here as well....? Jim S. ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1373211119.22276.YahooMailClassic@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 08:31:59 -0700 (PDT) Jim,    Mine produced a few selfed seeds last year so I know that mine will produce seed, but I've never had it in flower with other species or remembered to save pollen when it was in flower.   --- On Sun, 7/7/13, J.E. Shields wrote: From: J.E. Shields Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013, 10:44 PM C. campanulatum has refused to set seed for me, not even with bulbispermum pollen.  Maybe I should try it outdoor in the ground here as well....? Jim S. ************************************************* Jim Shields             USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92              WWW:    http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Was: Crinum bulbispermum - off set - Now Hardy Crinums Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 11:05:53 -0500 Dear Friends, Aaron did post an interesting comment about the plant to flower ratio of C. bulbsipermum. Yes there is a lot of plant there, but each plant puts up multiple flowering stalks over an extended period of time. And with a limited "Crinum Palette" in a colder climate, it is well worth the space it takes for my garden. More intriguing are his comments on C. campanulatum - On Jul 7, 2013, at 7:54 AM, aaron floden wrote: > ,,,,," maybe campanulatum should be thrown in to the mix as well? This only flowers for me if kept submerged year round in my bog garden, freezes and all. It was hardy in the ground, but never flowered without the excess water. It also has the benefit of flowering in late April to early May. " I never would have thought this is reasonably hardy species here and the wiki adds to the confusion about water or no water http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumSpeciesTwo#campanulatum Aaron, by 'submerged' do you mean a pot sitting in an inch of water or with the base and bulb completely covered in water? or something lese ? How low was your winter minimum when this survived icing over? Perhaps the "Crinum Palette' is bigger than I thought. I am confident growing any 'xpowellii', C. bulbispermum and hybrids, but suddenly there are more possibilities: C. variable C. variabale x bulbispermum C. x herbertii C. campanulatum Any one else grow other Crinum species in Zone5 or 6 or colder? I better start digging to accommodate all these new possibilities. Best to all Jim W. From alanidae@gmail.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 12:24:51 -0400 Crinum campanulatum is a beauty but it seems to be genetically incompatible with all Crinum species and hybrids I have attempted to cross it with. This seems to be a common experience that other Crinum enthusiasts who have grown this species have told me and I have not been able to find anyone who has successfully crossed this species even after repeated attempts. Does anyone know of or having any Crinum campanulatum hybrid successes? I have never had much luck growing it in the ground and it is still one of few Crinums I have to maintain in a pot. Alani Davis On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 11:31 AM, aaron floden wrote: > Jim, > > Mine produced a few selfed seeds last year so I know that mine will > produce seed, but I've never had it in flower with other species or > remembered to save pollen when it was in flower. > > > > --- On Sun, 7/7/13, J.E. Shields wrote: > > From: J.E. Shields > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > To: "Pacific Bulb Society" > Date: Sunday, July 7, 2013, 10:44 PM > > C. campanulatum has refused to set seed for me, not even with bulbispermum > pollen. Maybe I should try it outdoor in the ground here as well....? > > Jim S. > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Alani From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1373218278.28349.YahooMailClassic@web161006.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Was: Crinum bulbispermum - off set - Now Hardy Crinums Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 10:31:18 -0700 (PDT) Jim,    Crinum campanulatum has been fully hardy in the ground where it offset more frequently (due to a lack of water like the way some Narcissus bulbicodium types do?) It has wintered temps down to 7F with no issues even while the bulb has been submerged in the bog garden with the pot frozen in place in the non-heated 2.5 x 6 ft lined box that I grow many aquatic sedges, Alisma, Sagittaria, and other things in. The Crinum remains in place year round, the bulb sometimes flooded (covered) and sometimes just at water level (depending on rainfall). It also seems to tolerate the constant freeze/thaw that the bog garden experiences each winter.  Maybe next year I'll be more diligent about collecting pollen.  How close is paludosum to campanulatum? It seems to want constant moisture to grow well, but I've still not seen flowers.    Aaron --- On Mon, 7/8/13, James Waddick wrote: From: James Waddick Subject: [pbs] Was: Crinum bulbispermum - off set - Now Hardy Crinums To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Monday, July 8, 2013, 12:05 AM Dear Friends,     Aaron did post an interesting comment about the plant to flower ratio of C. bulbsipermum. Yes there is a lot of plant there, but each plant puts up multiple flowering stalks over an extended period of time. And with a limited "Crinum Palette" in a colder climate, it is well worth the space it takes for my garden.     More intriguing are his comments on C. campanulatum - On Jul 7, 2013, at 7:54 AM, aaron floden wrote: > ,,,,," maybe campanulatum should be thrown in to the mix as well? This only flowers for me if kept submerged year round in my bog garden, freezes and all. It was hardy in the ground, but never flowered without the excess water. It also has the benefit of flowering in late April to early May. "       Aaron, by 'submerged' do you mean a pot sitting in an inch of water or with the base and bulb completely covered in water?  or something lese ?  How low was your winter minimum when this survived icing over?     Perhaps the "Crinum Palette' is bigger than I thought. I am confident growing any 'xpowellii', C. bulbispermum and hybrids, but suddenly there are more possibilities:     C. variable     C. variabale x bulbispermum     C. x herbertii     C. campanulatum     Any one else grow other Crinum species in Zone5 or 6 or colder?  I better start digging to accommodate all these new possibilities.         Best to all        Jim W. From Tony@plantdelights.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 20:10:40 -0400 Steve: Yes, crinum are pretty easy in tissue culture. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Steven Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 4:55 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? I have grown lots of Crinum bulbispermum from seed, I've found in my conditions they grow very fast. I have a number of mature specimens in a hot dry North Western aspect where they cop brutal seasonal winds scorching ground baking heat in summer & into the minor zeros for short bursts in winter, they are in poor shale type soil over solid rock, improved by tilling well composted green waste below surface level to about 6" deep.. I too have only ever had a couple of pups out of about 15 very healthy mature plants.. Seed is readily available online, very affordable, fast growing & virus free. Seed or plants are definitely the easiest way to get more flowers in your garden. It would also be interesting to know if they are able to be tissue cultured ??? I would love to reproduce some of the smaller hybridized colours I was given. Steven : ) Queensland Australia On 07/07/2013, at 7:09 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: >> >> >> Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. > > Dear Tony and all, > > > Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each. > > Seedlings from these have no or a couple offsets each. None of them form dense clumps like xpowellii. > > They look VERY similar in all physical aspects. Best Jim > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Sun, 07 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Steven Subject: Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 12:49:47 +1000 Thank you Tony Steven : ) On 08/07/2013, at 10:10 AM, Tony Avent wrote: > Steve: > > Yes, crinum are pretty easy in tissue culture. > > Tony Avent > Plant Delights Nursery @ > Juniper Level Botanic Garden > 9241 Sauls Road > Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F > Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F > USDA Hardiness Zone 7b > email tony@plantdelights.com > website http://www.plantdelights.com > phone 919 772-4794 > fax 919 772-4752 > "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent > > From avbeek1@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 03:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Tissue culture Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 09:33:07 +0000 A couple of months ago I came across an site how to do tissue culture at home. (http://www.kitchenculturekit.com/StiffAffordablePTCforhobbyists.htm). Didn't do anything with it then. But, based on Tony remark crinums are easy in tissue culture, I'm curious if anybody has some experience with it at home. Aad, Sunny and warm Holland > From: Tony@plantdelights.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 20:10:40 -0400 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > > Steve: > > Yes, crinum are pretty easy in tissue culture. > > Tony Avent > Plant Delights Nursery @ > Juniper Level Botanic Garden > 9241 Sauls Road > Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F > Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F > USDA Hardiness Zone 7b > email tony@plantdelights.com > website http://www.plantdelights.com > phone 919 772-4794 > fax 919 772-4752 > "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Steven > Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 4:55 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > > I have grown lots of Crinum bulbispermum from seed, I've found in my conditions they grow very fast. I have a number of mature specimens in a hot dry North Western aspect where they cop brutal seasonal winds scorching ground baking heat in summer & into the minor zeros for short bursts in winter, they are in poor shale type soil over solid rock, improved by tilling well composted green waste below surface level to about 6" deep.. I too have only ever had a couple of pups out of about 15 very healthy mature plants.. Seed is readily available online, very affordable, fast growing & virus free. Seed or plants are definitely the easiest way to get more flowers in your garden. > It would also be interesting to know if they are able to be tissue cultured ??? > I would love to reproduce some of the smaller hybridized colours I was given. > > Steven : ) > Queensland Australia > > On 07/07/2013, at 7:09 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > > > > On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > >> > >> > >> Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. > > > > Dear Tony and all, > > > > > > Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each. > > > > Seedlings from these have no or a couple offsets each. None of them form dense clumps like xpowellii. > > > > They look VERY similar in all physical aspects. Best Jim > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From Tony@plantdelights.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 03:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Tissue culture Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 06:06:12 -0400 Aad: Crinum are better in tissue culture using liquid media as opposed to typical agar based media. Liquid media requires constant turning, so is quite a bit more complex for the home gardener. Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Aad van Beek Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 5:33 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] Tissue culture A couple of months ago I came across an site how to do tissue culture at home. (http://www.kitchenculturekit.com/StiffAffordablePTCforhobbyists.htm). Didn't do anything with it then. But, based on Tony remark crinums are easy in tissue culture, I'm curious if anybody has some experience with it at home. Aad, Sunny and warm Holland > From: Tony@plantdelights.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 20:10:40 -0400 > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > > Steve: > > Yes, crinum are pretty easy in tissue culture. > > Tony Avent > Plant Delights Nursery @ > Juniper Level Botanic Garden > 9241 Sauls Road > Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA > Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F > Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F > USDA Hardiness Zone 7b > email tony@plantdelights.com > website http://www.plantdelights.com > phone 919 772-4794 > fax 919 772-4752 > "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Steven > Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2013 4:55 AM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > > I have grown lots of Crinum bulbispermum from seed, I've found in my conditions they grow very fast. I have a number of mature specimens in a hot dry North Western aspect where they cop brutal seasonal winds scorching ground baking heat in summer & into the minor zeros for short bursts in winter, they are in poor shale type soil over solid rock, improved by tilling well composted green waste below surface level to about 6" deep.. I too have only ever had a couple of pups out of about 15 very healthy mature plants.. Seed is readily available online, very affordable, fast growing & virus free. Seed or plants are definitely the easiest way to get more flowers in your garden. > It would also be interesting to know if they are able to be tissue cultured ??? > I would love to reproduce some of the smaller hybridized colours I was given. > > Steven : ) > Queensland Australia > > On 07/07/2013, at 7:09 AM, James Waddick wrote: > > > > > On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:41 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > >> > >> > >> Since according to Dave Lehmiller, true Crinum bulbispemum never offsets, so the best viable option is seed. > > > > Dear Tony and all, > > > > > > Today I went out in the 90+ degree sun and observed my original decade plus planting of C. bulbispermum 'Jumbo'. One plant has a single stem without offset, but 2 others have 2 offsets each. > > > > Seedlings from these have no or a couple offsets each. None of them form dense clumps like xpowellii. > > > > They look VERY similar in all physical aspects. Best Jim > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 04:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: Tissue culture Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 20:25:44 +1000 Hi Aad, what a great idea, I cant wait to have a try, I have a number of bulbs I would like to try tissue culture with, so I am going to give it a try. On 8 July 2013 19:33, Aad van Beek wrote: > A couple of months ago I came across an site how to do tissue culture at > home. (http://www.kitchenculturekit.com/StiffAffordablePTCforhobbyists.htm > ). > Didn't do anything with it then. But, based on Tony remark crinums are > easy in tissue culture, I'm curious if anybody has some experience with it > at home. > > Aad, > Sunny and warm Holland > > > From: Tony@plantdelights.com > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2013 20:10:40 -0400 > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum bulbispermum - to off set or ? > > > > Steve: > > > > Yes, crinum are pretty easy in tissue culture > > > ___________________________ > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From msittner@mcn.org Mon, 08 Jul 2013 18:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <20130709011540.32247E8B1F@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2013 18:16:19 -0700 Hi, I've added a series of pages to the wiki taken from suggestions given by members of the pbs list for bulbs that members have found do well growing in the shade. We had a Topic of the Week for this in 2003, but I've included suggestions from other threads on the subject. If anyone wants to suggest additional species or genera that do well for them growing in the shade that were not included feel free to suggest them and I'll add them time permitting. One of the things that struck me when working on this was how much it depended on where you lived. A number of people suggested Narcissus for instance and that surprised me since this genus does best where I live in the full sun and most of the ones I've planted in my mostly shady garden I never see blooming. But a number of species and cultivars people in my location have planted in full sun seem to do really well. My winters can be wet and dark and perhaps people with dryer sunnier winters can get away with planting them in more shade. And it's important to point out that what is considered to be shade varies and some things may grow well in sun or shade. At the time of the Topic of the Week Boyce Tankersley listed favorites from the different places he lived and that made a lot of sense since he had lived in dramatically different climates. I hope you will find these pages useful. The different choices can be found from the index page. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/ShadeBulbs Mary Sue From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 20:50:21 -0500 Thanks for putting this together, Mary Sue. -Cynthia Mueller Sent from my iPhone On Jul 8, 2013, at 8:16 PM, "Mary Sue Ittner" wrote: > Hi, > > I've added a series of pages to the wiki taken from suggestions given > by members of the pbs list for bulbs that members have found do well > growing in the shade. > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From tim@gingerwoodnursery.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 23:17:14 -0700 Message-Id: <3D73F2A2-EA1D-4890-B01A-69C0F18AA514@gingerwoodnursery.com> From: Tim Chapman Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 22:08:01 -0500 Mary Sue, You can add all the entries in the genera Cornukaempferia, Kaempferia, and Globba to your list. There are some oddballs that like full sun but they are very rare and not listed on the wiki. When I have some free time I'll add some more species and corrections. For instance Globba 'White Dragon' is listed under G winitii but this one is actually a new species finally published as G sherwoodiana. It was supposed to be published as G magnifica but that never happened. You see it listed as either winitii or magnifica but nobody noticed it was published last year. Tim Chapman > From awilson@avonia.com Mon, 08 Jul 2013 23:17:14 -0700 Message-Id: <041079AC529E4A2DA8C4DFD0F2DE6FA1@Desktop> From: "AW" Subject: Exogonium Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2013 22:29:13 -0700 Recently a friend returning from Baja brought back some shots of a tuberous vine, Exogonium bracteatum. I have not found out a lot about it in the meanwhile other than where it is found, its family (Convolvulaceae) etc. and that someboby at Arizona State has been looking at it. I have not found a botanical description. Its bracts dominate the infloerscence and are amazing. Considering the climate where it grows, a tuberous plant is indeed a wonder as it sends its tendrils into tall bushes in their leafless state. Does Leo perhaps know more? When was it discovered and who found it? Thanks Andrew San Diego From jshields@indy.net Tue, 09 Jul 2013 06:17:10 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130709082653.0306b710@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2013 08:38:41 -0400 Hi All, That looks like a pretty good list to me! I would add to that list, for regions where they are hardy outdoors, Haemanthus deformis and Haemanthus pauculifolius. H. deformis needs fairly deep shade, while pauculifolius at least tolerates moderate shade. Proiphys cunninhamii and amboinensis seem to do OK in my shade house in summer. Clivia, if allowed honorary bulb-ship, take shade of course. Besides miniata, I think gardenii and robusta need shade. Caulescens and nobilis tolerate more sun, but certainly survive in shade. Hymenocallis: I think H. occidentalis (a.k.a. "caroliniana") needs partial shade. I grow H. eucharidifolia in moderate shade in a lath house. Most of the others I know about grow well in full sun; whether they will tolerate light shade, I have not tested. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From antennaria@charter.net Wed, 10 Jul 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <796688bf.3a49bd.13fc8c8d6be.Webtop.49@charter.net> From: Mark McDonough Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 09:32:52 -0400 (EDT) A potential plant to consider for shade is Melanthium latifolium, the Slender Bunchflower, found growing in "dry, rocky, wooded slopes" in a limited north to south distribution in Eastern USA. It is pictured and discussed in more detail on NARGS Forum: https://www.nargs.org/forum/melanthium-bunchflower Mark McDonough USDA Zone 5 Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, USA From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Wed, 10 Jul 2013 11:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <51DD9B2E.8060103@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Amaryllids in South Africa - photos from April 2013 Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 18:34:38 +0100 One of the SRGC forum's amaryllid enthusiasts has posted some super photos from a visit to South Africa in April. I thought PBSers would like to see them: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10705.0 is the link. I particularly enjoyed seeing the plants growing so well in rock crevices. Enjoy! M.Y. From plantsman@comcast.net Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20130710220346.98BC7E8A66@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:03:31 -0700 Additional shade plants, some rhizomatous, worth consideration: Asarum sp. Claytonia virginica Codonopsis sp. Convallaria majalis Hepatica nobilis Impatiens flanaganae Impatiens tinctoria Paris sp. Prosartes smithii Sauromatum venosum Uvularia grandiflora Nathan From aaron_floden@yahoo.com Wed, 10 Jul 2013 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1373495072.94142.YahooMailNeo@web161003.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 15:24:32 -0700 (PDT) Is that correctly identified? It looks suspiciously like virginicum which should be flowering now and is too early for latifolium which is not yet in flower here yet in the wild. I have smelled parviflorum and woodii as well and they have  distinctly  putrid marine water smell. Your description of the fragance is much how I would describe for virginicum; cloyingly sweet, but with undertones of urine and cow dung with a tendency to produce mild headaches.  Aaron  E Tennessee ________________________________ From: Mark McDonough To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulbs for Shade A potential plant to consider for shade is Melanthium latifolium, the Slender Bunchflower, found growing in "dry, rocky, wooded slopes" in a limited north to south distribution in Eastern USA. It is pictured and discussed in more detail on NARGS Forum: https://www.nargs.org/forum/melanthium-bunchflower Mark McDonough USDA Zone 5 Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, USA From hornig@oswego.edu Wed, 10 Jul 2013 16:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 18:45:24 -0400 I have several large Veratrum (melanthium) virginicum in bloom now, and I will testify that the smell is pronounced and unpleasant. I'd describe it as stale urine. but why quibble about barnyard odors, eh? Whatever it is, it's far-reaching and unattractive. The flowers, however, are glorious to look at. Ellen On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 6:24 PM, aaron floden wrote: > Is that correctly identified? It looks suspiciously like virginicum which > should be flowering now and is too early for latifolium which is not yet in > flower here yet in the wild. > I have smelled parviflorum and woodii as well and they have distinctly > putrid marine water smell. Your description of the fragance is much how I > would describe for virginicum; cloyingly sweet, but with undertones of > urine and cow dung with a tendency to produce mild headaches. > > Aaron > E Tennessee > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Mark McDonough > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2013 9:32 AM > Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulbs for Shade > > > A potential plant to consider for shade is Melanthium latifolium, the > Slender Bunchflower, found growing in "dry, rocky, wooded slopes" in a > limited north to south distribution in Eastern USA. It is pictured and > discussed in more detail on NARGS Forum: > https://www.nargs.org/forum/melanthium-bunchflower > > Mark McDonough > USDA Zone 5 > Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 508-925-5147 From msittner@mcn.org Wed, 10 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <20130711022912.B18EBE8A8E@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 19:28:59 -0700 Hi, I'm happy to add more plants to the wiki shade pages, but one of the helpful things about the pages I created was knowing the location of the person recommending them and why they were recommending them. This helps the reader to know whether they might succeed in their gardens. I'd like to add comments to the suggestions. So I'd appreciate some additional information from those of you who have suggested additions if you have not included it in your post. Thanks. Mary Sue From russell@odysseybulbs.com Wed, 10 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <20130711024058.6F0EEE8A9D@lists.ibiblio.org> From: "Russell Stafford, Odyssey Bulbs" Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2013 22:33:42 -0400 Mark's plant is one of my seedlings, grown from seed received as Melanthium latifolium. I agree that it appears to be virginicum. Mine haven't flowered yet -- they're still in pots. Russell At 06:24 PM 7/10/2013, you wrote: >Is that correctly identified? It looks suspiciously like virginicum >which should be flowering now and is too early for latifolium which >is not yet in flower here yet in the wild. >I have smelled parviflorum and woodii as well and they >have distinctly putrid marine water smell. Your description of the >fragance is much how I would describe for virginicum; cloyingly >sweet, but with undertones of urine and cow dung with a tendency to >produce mild headaches. > > Aaron > E Tennessee Russell Stafford Odyssey Bulbs PO Box 382 South Lancaster, MA 01561 508-335-8106 www.odysseybulbs.com www.facebook.com/odysseybulbs From jshields@indy.net Thu, 11 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130711123535.02fd81d0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 12:48:12 -0400 Hi all, Over the past week or so, I have mailed out numerous small packets of seeds of Hymenocallis. Some I sent in small plastic boxes, but most were just put in padded envelopes. I want to know how well the seeds survived the trips. Do I need to always in future use small rigid boxes for seeds? Feedback will be appreciated. Jim Shields ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From Tony@plantdelights.com Thu, 11 Jul 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: Crinum variable x bulbispermum Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 15:38:12 -0400 Jim: Sorry, this took a while, but here they are...the three selections from Jim Shields cross of Crinum variabile x bulbispermums http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Merry+Me+PDN057+variabile+x+bulbispermum19.jpg.html http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Happy+Days+PDN040+variabile+x+bulbispermum14.jpg.html http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Cheers+PDN062+variabile+x+bulbispermum4.jpg.html Tony Avent Plant Delights Nursery @ Juniper Level Botanic Garden 9241 Sauls Road Raleigh, North Carolina 27603 USA Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F USDA Hardiness Zone 7b email tony@plantdelights.com website http://www.plantdelights.com phone 919 772-4794 fax 919 772-4752 "I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least three times" - Avent -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of James Waddick Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 12:17 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum variable x bulbispermum Dear Tony, Have any pix of these hybrids to share? Don't have to be final selection, but perhaps the range of features. Thanks Jim On Jul 5, 2013, at 7:35 PM, Tony Avent wrote: > We just made final selections last year, so now we cut the basal plate of the final selections and wait for them to offset. The rate of offset will be the determining factor when they reach market, but they are truly amazing plants. From eagle.85@verizon.net Thu, 11 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8745310C-4C12-4FE3-9A98-787FB71377E5@verizon.net> From: douglas westfall Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 13:54:09 -0700 On Jul 11, 2013, at 9:48 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > Hi all, > > Over the past week or so, I have mailed out numerous small packets > of seeds > of Hymenocallis. Some I sent in small plastic boxes, but most were > just > put in padded envelopes. > > I want to know how well the seeds survived the trips. Do I need to > always > in future use small rigid boxes for seeds? > > Feedback will be appreciated. > > Jim Shields, Jim, I intended to confirm receipt of the seeds just yesterday. Thank you very much. Doug Westfall From barkingdogwoods@gmail.com Thu, 11 Jul 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <007801ce7e90$f64d1400$e2e73c00$@com> From: "Lin" Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2013 18:47:10 -0500 I find that Rhodophiala bifida does well in shade here in north east Texas (zone 8a). Also regarding narcissus - here in Texas I plant almost all of my narcissus under deciduous trees - they get enough winter sun for foliage to restore the bulb for the next year, and aren't subject to our blazing sun. Tall bearded iris also do well under deciduous trees, as their rhizomes appreciate protection from scalding sun. One that's not mentioned that I absolutely love in partial to mostly shade is various Canna - indica, 'Cleopatra', 'Pretoria', etc. Lin Grado -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Mary Sue Ittner Sent: Monday, July 08, 2013 8:16 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Bulbs for Shade Hi, I've added a series of pages to the wiki taken from suggestions given by members of the pbs list for bulbs that members have found do well growing in the shade. We had a Topic of the Week for this in 2003, but I've included suggestions from other threads on the subject. If anyone wants to suggest additional species or genera that do well for them growing in the shade that were not included feel free to suggest them and I'll add them time permitting. One of the things that struck me when working on this was how much it depended on where you lived. A number of people suggested Narcissus for instance and that surprised me since this genus does best where I live in the full sun and most of the ones I've planted in my mostly shady garden I never see blooming. But a number of species and cultivars people in my location have planted in full sun seem to do really well. My winters can be wet and dark and perhaps people with dryer sunnier winters can get away with planting them in more shade. And it's important to point out that what is considered to be shade varies and some things may grow well in sun or shade. At the time of the Topic of the Week Boyce Tankersley listed favorites from the different places he lived and that made a lot of sense since he had lived in dramatically different climates. I hope you will find these pages useful. The different choices can be found from the index page. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/ShadeBulbs Mary Sue From antennaria@charter.net Fri, 12 Jul 2013 06:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <3ade67e6.3b9657.13fd2f3a2d3.Webtop.49@charter.net> From: Mark McDonough Subject: Bulbs for Shade Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 08:55:49 -0400 (EDT) > From: aaron floden wrote: > Subject: Re: [pbs] Bulbs for Shade > > Is that correctly identified? It looks suspiciously like virginicum > which should be flowering now and is too early for latifolium which is > not yet in flower here yet in the wild. > I have smelled parviflorum and woodii as well and they have distinctly > putrid marine water smell. Your description of the fragance is much > how I would describe for virginicum; cloyingly sweet, but with > undertones of urine and cow dung with a tendency to produce mild > headaches. Aaron, you are correct, this is Melanthium virginicum, I came to that same conclusion this morning when Harold Peachy (NARGS member) posted a photo of his plant to the same NARGS Forum topic: https://www.nargs.org/forum/melanthium-bunchflower I accepted the name given to me from a good source, without verifying the identification, I should know better (lesson learned once again, and again)! ;-) I really like your description of the scent on virginicum, cloyingly sweet, but with undertones of cow dung. No headaches here so far. I can only detect the scent from about 1 meter away; the plant is so beautiful that I'm okay with a mild barnyard smell... when the wind blows from the northeast I can smell a very nearby cow pasture, not so bad. Mark McDonough USDA Zone 5 Massachusetts, near the New Hampshire border, USA From jay.yourch@gmail.com Fri, 12 Jul 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: A new Crinum hybrid Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 23:15:43 -0400 A Crinum hybrid which I made in 2009 flowered for the first time yesterday. Its seed parent is Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' and its pollen parent is C. 'Mrs. James Hendry'. It has sister seedlings, one of which flowered for the first time last year, and several this year, but this bulb is far superior to all of them. If you're interested in seeing photos of the new hybrid: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#LadyChameleonXMJH It's the second entry, its sister that flowered last year is first. Regards, Jay From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 12 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <9EB39955-90C8-455D-B072-C2BB53AED4FB@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: New Crinum Hybrids Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 22:45:39 -0500 > Tony Avent showed: three selections from Jim Shields cross of Crinum variabile x bulbispermums > > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Merry+Me+PDN057+variabile+x+bulbispermum19.jpg.html > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Happy+Days+PDN040+variabile+x+bulbispermum14.jpg.html > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Cheers+PDN062+variabile+x+bulbispermum4.jpg.html and Jay Yourch showed his latest 'Lady Chameleon' x 'Mrs James Hendry' http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#LadyChameleonXMJH Dear Tony , Jay and all,, Seems like there;s lots of good news on the horizon for Crinum lovers. There are very few people that grow Crinum in my Kansas City Metro area and there is increasing evidence for the hardiness of more species, hybrids and selections. I find these new selections very exciting and I am eager to try some of them. I urge other PBS members in cooler climates to give Crinum a try. So Tony when will Jim Shield's hybrids be on the market? Jay and yours? And what about Tissue culture of the best and get them out far and wide.? Thanks and best to all. Jim W. From jay.yourch@gmail.com Sat, 13 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: New Crinum Hybrids Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 11:33:01 -0400 Jim, I don't market bulbs, I just breed them and promote what I think are best, distributing offsets to enthusiasts who will appreciate them. I intend to make all of my better bulbs available to Tony Avent, he already has C. 'Glory' and C. 'Persephone'. He has the choice to propagate and sell them if he thinks they're worthy, but he has a business to run and many good candidates to choose from so there is no guarantee that any of my bulbs will be marketed. Tony has shown me how Plant Delights propagates Crinums, and although not for the faint of heart, it is very effective and probably makes tissue culture unnecessary in most cases. I will have another new Crinum hybrid debut this evening, its seed parent is C. amoenum and its pollen parent is C. 'Super Ellen'. It has two sisters which flowered last year, but both of them were mostly white, the buds on the new one are dark. I'll will photos this evening or tomorrow morning. Regards, Jay On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 11:45 PM, James Waddick wrote: > > Tony Avent showed: three selections from Jim Shields cross of Crinum > variabile x bulbispermums > > > > > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Merry+Me+PDN057+variabile+x+bulbispermum19.jpg.html > > > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Happy+Days+PDN040+variabile+x+bulbispermum14.jpg.html > > > http://gallery.plantdelights.com/v/Crinum-Lilies/Crinum+Cheers+PDN062+variabile+x+bulbispermum4.jpg.html > > and Jay Yourch showed his latest 'Lady Chameleon' x 'Mrs James Hendry' > > > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#LadyChameleonXMJH > > Dear Tony , Jay and all,, > > Seems like there;s lots of good news on the horizon for Crinum > lovers. There are very few people that grow Crinum in my Kansas City Metro > area and there is increasing evidence for the hardiness of more species, > hybrids and selections. I find these new selections very exciting and I am > eager to try some of them. I urge other PBS members in cooler climates to > give Crinum a try. > > So Tony when will Jim Shield's hybrids be on the market? > > Jay and yours? > > And what about Tissue culture of the best and get them out far and > wide.? Thanks and best to all. Jim W. > From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 13 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: a visit to Plant Delights Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 12:20:39 -0400 I swung by Plant Delights this morning, because they are having their Summer Open House and I wanted to buy some Crinums. There were some very impressive Crinum 'Super Ellen' blooming in the garden. Among other things, I picked up a Scadoxus multiflorus in bud. The tag says "var. katherinae," but the inflorescence is quite short and the plants seem to bloom hysteranthously. Would that not make it var. multiflorus? I was interested to see that PDN has a new crop of baby Amorphophallus titanum. I almost succumbed to temptation, but in the end I decided that half my greenhouse was too much to dedicate to a single plant! Nick Durham, NC Zone 7 From eagle.85@verizon.net Sat, 13 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: douglas westfall Subject: Fwd: Sending Seeds Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 09:54:11 -0700 Begin forwarded message: > From: douglas westfall > Date: July 11, 2013 1:54:09 PM PDT > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds > Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > > > On Jul 11, 2013, at 9:48 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > >> Hi all, >> >> Over the past week or so, I have mailed out numerous small packets >> of seeds >> of Hymenocallis. Some I sent in small plastic boxes, but most were >> just >> put in padded envelopes. >> >> I want to know how well the seeds survived the trips. Do I need to >> always >> in future use small rigid boxes for seeds? >> >> Feedback will be appreciated. >> >> Jim Shields, > Jim, I intended to confirm receipt of the seeds just yesterday. Thank > you very much. > > Doug Westfall > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jshields@indy.net Sat, 13 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130713125842.038176c0@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Fwd: Sending Seeds Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:00:46 -0400 I will be interested in hearing how well these seeds germinate. I still don't trust the postal folks (or at least their machinery) not to do some damage. Jim Shields At 09:54 AM 7/13/2013 -0700, you wrote: >Begin forwarded message: > > > From: douglas westfall > > Date: July 11, 2013 1:54:09 PM PDT > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds > > Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > > > > > > On Jul 11, 2013, at 9:48 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > > > >> > >> Jim Shields, > > Jim, I intended to confirm receipt of the seeds just yesterday. Thank > > you very much. > > > > Doug Westfall > > > > _______________________________________________ ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From alanidae@gmail.com Sat, 13 Jul 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Fwd: Sending Seeds Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:32:02 -0400 Jim - I have generally had success with padded envelopes and fleshy seeds but still if they get crushed that's generally that and there isn't recovery. However, I have never had an issue with small cardboard boxes. Alani Davis On Sat, Jul 13, 2013 at 1:00 PM, J.E. Shields wrote: > I will be interested in hearing how well these seeds germinate. I still > don't trust the postal folks (or at least their machinery) not to do some > damage. > > Jim Shields > > > At 09:54 AM 7/13/2013 -0700, you wrote: > > > >Begin forwarded message: > > > > > From: douglas westfall > > > Date: July 11, 2013 1:54:09 PM PDT > > > To: Pacific Bulb Society > > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds > > > Reply-To: Pacific Bulb Society > > > > > > > > > On Jul 11, 2013, at 9:48 AM, J.E. Shields wrote: > > > > > >> > > >> Jim Shields, > > > Jim, I intended to confirm receipt of the seeds just yesterday. > Thank > > > you very much. > > > > > > Doug Westfall > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Alani From markmazerandfm13@earthlink.net Sat, 13 Jul 2013 11:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <410-220137613174235984@earthlink.net> From: "MARK MAZER AND FREDRIKA MAZER" Subject: Fwd: Sending Seeds Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 13:42:35 -0400 I still > don't trust the postal folks (or at least their machinery) not to do some > damage. http://pe.usps.com/text/dmm300/601.htm#1196660 3.3 Odd-Shaped Items in Paper Envelopes Pens, pencils, key rings, bottle caps, and other similar odd-shaped items are not permitted in letter-size or flat-size paper envelopes unless they are wrapped within the other contents of the envelope to streamline the shape of the mailpiece and prevent damage during postal processing. If an odd-shaped item is not properly wrapped, it could burst through the envelope and cause injury to employees and damage to USPS processing equipment. Odd-shaped items that are properly wrapped within paper envelopes and sent at letter prices may be subject to the nonmachinable surcharge under 133.1.5 or 233.4.3 for First-Class Mail letters, or the nonmachinable prices under 243.5.5 for Standard Mail letters. Certain types of odd-shaped items, when properly wrapped, are permitted as automation price letter-size mail subject to the standards in 201.3.0. Flat-size automation price mail is subject to the uniform thickness requirement in 301.3.0. From jane@sonic.net Sat, 13 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51E1A9FA.6030504@sonic.net> From: Jane Merryman Subject: Iris reticulata Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 12:26:50 -0700 Cheryl Lieberman writes: > Hi, I had never heard of winter irises until I saw them mentioned in a book yesterday. Where can I buy bulbs (my regular source, Comanche Iris in Missouri) doesn't carry them? Also, will they flourish in the > Washington, DC area? Thanks. Please reply to Cheryl at crl4242@gmail.com -- Read my blog at www.janemerryman.com From silkie@frontiernet.net Sat, 13 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <05b201ce8034$a8e556a0$fab003e0$@frontiernet.net> From: "Colleen" Subject: Iris reticulata Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 18:51:28 -0700 I'm wondering why only get some messages. I am glad Jane kept part of Cheryl's message because I never got it. Are others having this problem? Colleen NE Calif. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jane Merryman Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 12:27 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Iris reticulata Cheryl Lieberman writes: > Hi, I had never heard of winter irises until I saw them mentioned in a > book yesterday. Where can I buy bulbs (my regular source, Comanche Iris in Missouri) doesn't carry them? Also, will they flourish in the Washington, DC area? Thanks. Please reply to Cheryl at crl4242@gmail.com -- Read my blog at www.janemerryman.com From richrd@nas.com Sat, 13 Jul 2013 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <2587517C-D90E-4818-BD24-3F7A3EC08E61@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: some native lilies Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 19:18:28 -0700 In natural habitats Lilium washingtonianum in natural habitat near Mt Hood, Oregon. http://flic.kr/p/f9azq7 Specimens seemed to have darker color in shadier sites. Perhaps age related. Lilium columbianum in natural habitat, northern California, near the coast. This year I am monitoring and planning to collect and seed propagate from full extent of it's range, sea level to subalpine, coastal to interior Washington to California. Collections of a seed pod or 2 from geo coded specimens would be appreciated. http://flic.kr/p/f8VhS2 Lilium kelleyanum in natural habitat at margins of a Darlingtonia bog, Northern Calfornia http://flic.kr/p/f9ayPs A beautiful lily in an incredible setting. Rich H From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sun, 14 Jul 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Iris reticulata Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 13:02:21 +0100 Hi, In message <05b201ce8034$a8e556a0$fab003e0$@frontiernet.net>, Colleen writes >I'm wondering why only get some messages. I am glad Jane kept part of >Cheryl's message because I never got it. Are others having this problem? The message Jane posted came from the contact form on the PBS website - a private message to Jane - that is why you didn't see it. The contact form gets general messages, which would be more appropriate for this list, sometimes forwarding here is the best option. Regarding Iris reticulata, the PBS wiki has a sources page with custom search engine for bulbs/seeds, which answers the common "where do I get X" question: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources Colleen, I am interested if you are not getting all messages. I've checked your bounce score and you are not bouncing (i.e. returning them to the list as undeliverable). Spam filtering is the most likely reason for losing messages - check wherever your email system sends things it thinks are spam. The web archive of list postings: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Latest allows you to check off which postings you have received and which not. There are ways of telling your email system things are not spam, someone told me adding the sender to your address book works on some systems (AOL) - think along these lines. Further discussion should be by private email... -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From jay.yourch@gmail.com Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Another new Crinum hybrid Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 10:52:16 -0400 This bulb's debut is significantly less exciting than the Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' × C. 'Mrs. James Hendry' I announced on Friday. This bulb's seed parent is C. amoenum and its pollen parent is C. 'Super Ellen'. I was pleased to see the highly colored buds, but upon opening it revealed narrow petals and a trumpet shape, which is not an attractive combination. It may improve some as it matures, but so far it's the least attractive of the three sisters. http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsWhite#amoenumXSuperEllen Jay From barkingdogwoods@gmail.com Sun, 14 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <016301ce80a2$041511b0$0c3f3510$@com> From: "Lin" Subject: A new Crinum hybrid Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 09:54:16 -0500 Wow, Jay, that's fabulous! Thanks for sharing!!! Lin Grado Texas -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Jay Yourch Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:16 PM To: PBS Subject: [pbs] A new Crinum hybrid A Crinum hybrid which I made in 2009 flowered for the first time yesterday. Its seed parent is Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' and its pollen parent is C. 'Mrs. James Hendry'. It has sister seedlings, one of which flowered for the first time last year, and several this year, but this bulb is far superior to all of them. If you're interested in seeing photos of the new hybrid: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#Lad yChameleonXMJH It's the second entry, its sister that flowered last year is first. Regards, Jay From leo@possi.org Sun, 14 Jul 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7de5bcb5cc13c5eab9ed5469cdd479eb.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 12:52:59 -0700 (PDT) Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more experience shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses small cardboard boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard dry seed Dell uses padded envelopes. In the past I have put fleshy seed in small (non-food) plastic zip bags cushioned with perlite, then put them into padded envelopes. It doesn't always work. So if the seeds are valuable, I would suggest using the small cardboard boxes. They cost about $2-$3 US to mail. By the way, Dell has remarked in the past that it would be nice if people returned the mailing envelopes and boxes to him for re-use. Leo From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Sun, 14 Jul 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 13:16:02 -0700 Thanks Leo, being new to PBS I'd not thought of sending the boxes back but will do so in the future. Karl Church Dinuba, CA zone 9a On Jul 14, 2013 12:53 PM, "Leo A. Martin" wrote: > Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more > experience > shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses small > cardboard > boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard dry > seed Dell uses > padded envelopes. > > In the past I have put fleshy seed in small (non-food) plastic zip bags > cushioned with > perlite, then put them into padded envelopes. It doesn't always work. > > So if the seeds are valuable, I would suggest using the small cardboard > boxes. They cost > about $2-$3 US to mail. > > By the way, Dell has remarked in the past that it would be nice if people > returned the > mailing envelopes and boxes to him for re-use. > > Leo > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 14 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 14:46:14 -0700 Speaking of small cardboard boxes, I was very frustrated at being unable to find any at nearby Post Office branches and having the USPS website malfunction on me, so I went to an Office Depot to buy boxes and discovered they have STACKS of USPS Priority Mail boxes there, for free, because they ship them from their shipping desk. So if your PO is going under as so many are, head for Office Depot. The smallest Priority boxes are fiendish to assemble but are perfect for mailing seeds or a few bulbs. WHen I did the NARGS Seed Exchange intake phase for three years, I saw every possible form of seed packaging and mailing device. The most crucial points are (a) tape seed envelopes shut, do not depend on their glue; and (b) be aware that some seeds, such as Paeonia, are very moist and will mold in plastic, cause paper envelopes to fall apart, and excessively moisten other kinds of seeds in the parcel. I usually ended up with a good amount of loose seed that fell out of the mailing envelopes or boxes when I emptied them. I dared not plant it, though; it went into the burn barrel along with the noxious weed seed that some donors thought were interesting "wildflowers." Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA A> Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more > > experience > > shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses small > > cardboard > > boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard dry > > seed Dell uses > > padded envelopes. From gentian21@comcast.net Sun, 14 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 00:35:14 -0500 You can have a bundle of assorted Priority boxes delivered with your mail. The demand for boxes is so high that the post offices have trouble keep them in stock. All priority boxes are free regardless of where you obtain them. As long as the are sealed properly (straight) they are the least likely of any boxes to get damaged much better then padded envelopes. The danger zone is 1/4" where something a bit over 1/4" or uneven may go under the 1/4" cullers if there is stickiness exposed. Frank Cooper -----Original Message----- From: Jane McGary Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 4:46 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds Speaking of small cardboard boxes, I was very frustrated at being unable to find any at nearby Post Office branches and having the USPS website malfunction on me, so I went to an Office Depot to buy boxes and discovered they have STACKS of USPS Priority Mail boxes there, for free, because they ship them from their shipping desk. So if your PO is going under as so many are, head for Office Depot. The smallest Priority boxes are fiendish to assemble but are perfect for mailing seeds or a few bulbs. WHen I did the NARGS Seed Exchange intake phase for three years, I saw every possible form of seed packaging and mailing device. The most crucial points are (a) tape seed envelopes shut, do not depend on their glue; and (b) be aware that some seeds, such as Paeonia, are very moist and will mold in plastic, cause paper envelopes to fall apart, and excessively moisten other kinds of seeds in the parcel. I usually ended up with a good amount of loose seed that fell out of the mailing envelopes or boxes when I emptied them. I dared not plant it, though; it went into the burn barrel along with the noxious weed seed that some donors thought were interesting "wildflowers." Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA A> Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more > > experience > > shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses > > small > > cardboard > > boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard > > dry > > seed Dell uses > > padded envelopes. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From gentian21@comcast.net Sun, 14 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8CFBC04096964122874B90956273F08F@squeeky> From: Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 00:39:09 -0500 If they are Priority mail boxes do not reuse them that is not permitted. -----Original Message----- From: Karl Church Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 3:16 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds Thanks Leo, being new to PBS I'd not thought of sending the boxes back but will do so in the future. Karl Church Dinuba, CA zone 9a On Jul 14, 2013 12:53 PM, "Leo A. Martin" wrote: > Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more > experience > shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses small > cardboard > boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard dry > seed Dell uses > padded envelopes. > > In the past I have put fleshy seed in small (non-food) plastic zip bags > cushioned with > perlite, then put them into padded envelopes. It doesn't always work. > > So if the seeds are valuable, I would suggest using the small cardboard > boxes. They cost > about $2-$3 US to mail. > > By the way, Dell has remarked in the past that it would be nice if people > returned the > mailing envelopes and boxes to him for re-use. > > Leo > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 03:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <87158483-7A14-42D8-8947-A7223AE244C7@gmail.com> From: Steven Subject: Sending Seeds Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 19:36:52 +1000 Oops ive sent oodles of priority boxes back to America... It's ok if the post office hunts me down one day haha.... I will be telling the judge I sent them to recycle & save the planet, so we can plant more bulbs Steven : ) On 15/07/2013, at 3:39 PM, wrote: > If they are Priority mail boxes do not reuse them that is not permitted. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Karl Church > Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 3:16 PM > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Subject: Re: [pbs] Sending Seeds > > Thanks Leo, being new to PBS I'd not thought of sending the boxes back but > will do so in the future. > Karl Church > Dinuba, CA > zone 9a > On Jul 14, 2013 12:53 PM, "Leo A. Martin" wrote: > >> Most here know what I am about to say in this paragraph. Dell has more >> experience >> shipping fleshy seed and small bulbs than most of us. He often uses small >> cardboard >> boxes. Inside he uses foam peanuts and paper for cushioning. For hard dry >> seed Dell uses >> padded envelopes. >> >> In the past I have put fleshy seed in small (non-food) plastic zip bags >> cushioned with >> perlite, then put them into padded envelopes. It doesn't always work. >> >> So if the seeds are valuable, I would suggest using the small cardboard >> boxes. They cost >> about $2-$3 US to mail. >> >> By the way, Dell has remarked in the past that it would be nice if people >> returned the >> mailing envelopes and boxes to him for re-use. >> >> Leo >> >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jay.yourch@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: Another new Crinum hybrid Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 07:58:18 -0400 I rushed to judgement on this one, its flowers don't open wide until the second evening. I've added a second picture showing the day old and fresh flowers together. Jay On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 10:52 AM, Jay Yourch wrote: > This bulb's debut is significantly less exciting than the Crinum 'Lady > Chameleon' × C. 'Mrs. James Hendry' I announced on Friday. This bulb's > seed parent is C. amoenum and its pollen parent is C. 'Super Ellen'. I was > pleased to see the highly colored buds, but upon opening it revealed narrow > petals and a trumpet shape, which is not an attractive combination. It may > improve some as it matures, but so far it's the least attractive of the > three sisters. > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsWhite#amoenumXSuperEllen > > Jay > From jay.yourch@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jay Yourch Subject: A new Crinum hybrid Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 07:59:37 -0400 Thanks for the kind words, Lin. I'm very pleased with the new hybrid. Jay On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 10:54 AM, Lin wrote: > Wow, Jay, that's fabulous! Thanks for sharing!!! > > Lin Grado > Texas > > -----Original Message----- > From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] > On Behalf Of Jay Yourch > Sent: Friday, July 12, 2013 10:16 PM > To: PBS > Subject: [pbs] A new Crinum hybrid > > A Crinum hybrid which I made in 2009 flowered for the first time yesterday. > Its seed parent is Crinum 'Lady Chameleon' and its pollen parent is C. > 'Mrs. James Hendry'. It has sister seedlings, one of which flowered for > the > first time last year, and several this year, but this bulb is far superior > to all of them. > > If you're interested in seeing photos of the new hybrid: > > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/CrinumHybridsPinkTwo#Lad > yChameleonXMJH > > It's the second entry, its sister that flowered last year is first. > > Regards, > > Jay > From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51E3FC71.1060601@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: ID needed, please Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:43:13 +0100 A friend got this bulb as/Ledebouria cooperi/, which it plainly is not - Can you folks help with an I.D. ? Pictures here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10734.0 Thanks, M.Y. From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51E409B7.3010404@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: ID needed, please (Ledebouria) Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 15:39:51 +0100 Drat, must learn to finish message before pressing send. Meant to add ; is this /*Ledebouria ovalifolia, do you think? *M.Y. * */ From jane@sonic.net Mon, 15 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51E41E43.2060304@sonic.net> From: Jane Merryman Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 09:07:31 -0700 Ron George writes: I have discovered \"nests\" of cyclamen pods under the sites where my flowers bloom. Do I harvest and dry them, wait to harvest and sow in pots in the fall, or is there another method? Regards, Ron Please reply to: ron@worldinneed.co.uk -- Read my blog at www.janemerryman.com From btankers@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Amaryllids in South Africa - photos from April 2013 Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:10:39 -0500 Thank you very much for sharing these images from your trip to S.A. I'd never seen (or imagined) so many Haemanthus flowering in such large numbers so close to each other - absolutely spectacular! Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden On Wed, Jul 10, 2013 at 12:34 PM, Youngs Aberdeen < youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com> wrote: > > One of the SRGC forum's amaryllid enthusiasts has posted > > > some super photos from a visit to South Africa in April. > > I thought PBSers would like to see them: > > http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10705.0 is the link. > > I particularly enjoyed seeing the plants growing > so well in rock crevices. Enjoy! > > M.Y. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51E4666B.1010902@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes minuta and Zephyranthes carinata Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 09:15:23 +1200 I have been sentseed of the Zephyranthes minuta. Looking them up, there was a reference to them as Zephyranthes carinata. Are these synonyms for the same one? Does anyone know? Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jshields@indy.net Mon, 15 Jul 2013 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130715172526.04cca018@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Zephyranthes minuta and Zephyranthes carinata Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 17:34:16 -0400 Hi all, Tropicos lists Z. minuta as a synonym for Zephyranthes verecunda, http://www.tropicos.org/Name/50227965?tab=acceptednames while Kew lists verecunda as a synonym for the accepted name, minuta http://apps.kew.org/wcsp/advsearch.do;jsessionid=B8833E430707801CE80B2AD71AAAF092 It does not list any synonyms for Zephyranthes carinata, http://www.tropicos.org/NameSearch.aspx and Kew also shows it as a legitimate name. Z. carinata is not Z. minuta. This could be one of those situations where botanical taxonomists get to feud over minutiae, and the rest of us get to pick and choose whatever suits us. Jim Shields At 09:15 AM 7/16/2013 +1200, you wrote: >I have been sentseed of the Zephyranthes minuta. Looking them up, there >was a reference to them as Zephyranthes carinata. > >Are these synonyms for the same one? Does anyone know? > >Ina > >-- >Ina Crossley >Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From jshields@indy.net Mon, 15 Jul 2013 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130715174240.0316f548@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Seeds coming soon to PBS BX Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 17:44:57 -0400 I'll be sending off some seeds to the Pacific Bulb Society BX soon: Crinum bulbispermum (misc. garden forms), Zephyranthes tubispathus (cf. "texanus"), Haemanthus montanus, and Sprekelia howardii. Join PBS as a dues-paid member now if you want to get any of these seeds: http://pacificbulbsociety.org/ Click on the "membership" link near the top of the page and pay on line via PayPal. Remember, Jim Waddick and I both believe that every garden should be growing Crinum, like bulbispermum! ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51E47B0C.8050000@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes minuta and Zephyranthes carinata Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 10:43:24 +1200 Thank you Jim. Ina On 16/07/2013 9:34 a.m., J.E. Shields wrote: > This could be one of those situations where botanical taxonomists get to > feud over minutiae, and the rest of us get to pick and choose whatever > suits us. > > Jim Shields -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From cchowar1027@yahoo.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1373930589.39578.YahooMailNeo@web160906.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Cody Howard Subject: ID needed, please Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 16:23:09 -0700 (PDT) It resembles L. sandersonii more than L. ovalifolia It may also be the plant floating around as L. monophylla, which has more than one leaf and may actually just be L. sandersonii...or a new species. This genus needs work. Cody Pasadena, CA ________________________________ From: Youngs Aberdeen To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Monday, July 15, 2013 6:43 AM Subject: [pbs] ID needed, please A friend got this bulb as/Ledebouria cooperi/, which it plainly is not -   Can you folks help with an I.D. ?   Pictures here : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=10734.0   Thanks,   M.Y. From mmattus@charter.net Mon, 15 Jul 2013 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 20:09:51 -0500 This post reminded to to go and check on my Cyclamen seed pods, which I completely forgot about harvesting from the dry sandbed in the greenhouse. I knew it was most likely too late, and I was correct. Every single one was gone, thanks, most likely due to ants. Does anyone know if mice eat the seed or even the tubers? I also noticed that a few three year old tubers were missing from their pots ( and one very large ( 8 inch diameter) C. hederifolium which I purchsed from Ellen Hornig 7 years ago - now rotted, as a window pane had a leak, and I fear it rotted as the greenhouse gets very hot during the dry summer underglass. If I were to purchase new Cyclamen, and ideas for good sources? Matt Mattus USDA Zone 6 Worcester, MA On 7/15/13 11:07 AM, "Jane Merryman" wrote: > Ron George writes: > > I have discovered \"nests\" of cyclamen pods under the sites where my > flowers bloom. Do I harvest and dry them, wait to harvest and sow in > pots in the fall, or is there another method? Regards, Ron > > Please reply to: > > ron@worldinneed.co.uk From pamela@polson.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <000c01ce81c4$22628c60$6727a520$@com> From: "Pamela Harlow" Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 18:31:00 -0700 Deer mice relish cyclamen seeds but spare the tubers. -----Original Message----- Does anyone know if mice eat the seed or even the tubers? From bea.spencer@sympatico.ca Mon, 15 Jul 2013 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: B Spencer Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2013 21:57:39 -0400 I lost quite a number of small cyclamen tubers over the years, some in the greenhouse and some in a pot outside by the greenhouse. Possible culprits would be mice, voles, chipmunks and squirrels. I have them all. It would be either mice or voles in the greenhouse, I think. I never saw a squirrel or a chipmunk there but I had a mouse (could me a vole, did not look at the tail) more than once. Bea in Ontario. Deer mice relish cyclamen seeds but spare the tubers. -----Original Message----- Does anyone know if mice eat the seed or even the tubers? From contact@bulbargence.com Mon, 15 Jul 2013 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "contact" Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 06:59:31 +0200 Hello George, Here in our medirterranean climat most Cyclamen pods should be harvested towards the end of june (esp C hederifolium and coum) C Repandum and pseudibericum 2-3 weeks later. Should be sown immetiately in full shade Greetings from south of France (actually very hot and dry) Lauw de Jager http://www.bulbargence.com/m_catalogue/index.php?id_categorie=12 -----Original Message----- I have discovered \"nests\" of cyclamen pods under the sites where my flowers bloom. Do I harvest and dry them, wait to harvest and sow in pots in the fall, or is there another method? From petersirises@gmail.com Tue, 16 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Posting of fleshy seeds Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 18:03:22 +0100 Seeds from Jim Shields of amaryllids, including a few large fleshy ones, arrived here in the UK this morning, in record time. The seeds are in perfect condition and were in a paper envelope within a padded envelope. - No extra padding or boxes. All sown now. Peter (UK) From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 11:25:08 -0700 Matt wrote, >. Every single one was >gone, thanks, most likely due to ants. > >Does anyone know if mice eat the seed or even the tubers? Cyclamen seeds have a structure on them that attracts ants, which carry the seeds away, harvest the edible portion, and drop the fertile portion. Most old gardens in this area have Cyclamen hederifolium spread all about, including in the lawns, for this reason. You have to catch the seed, as Matt noted, as soon as the capsules split open, or even just before (you can tell they're ripe when they become very soft). I never had mice or anything else eat cyclamen tubers in my former garden, which had every varmint known to the American Northwest, including the mountain beaver. However, in urban Portland they are occasionally eaten by the introduced eastern gray squirrel. The native Douglas squirrel did not eat them when I was up in the hills. I have read that in Europe cyclamen tubers are a favorite food of wild pigs, hence the English name "sowbread." And it's time to repot your Cyclamen tubers, if you grow them in pots, except for the summer-growing C. purpurascens. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Tue, 16 Jul 2013 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51E5A553.3020807@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: ID needed, please Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 20:56:03 +0100 Thank you Cody. I do agree that these plants are tricky to determine and I hope someone is working on that. I had thought I had posted a reply earlier but it seems it got lost. M.Y. From btankers@gmail.com Tue, 16 Jul 2013 14:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Seeds coming soon to PBS BX Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 15:51:27 -0500 I can wholeheartedly endorse Jim Shields Crinums. He shared some seeds of hybrid origin with me over 10 years ago that have survived in my USDA zone 5 garden for the last 7 years outdoors (granted, planted on the south side of the house near the basement foundation wall). I shared a couple of these plants with my sister-in-law for her new house in Central Texas a couple of years back. When I dug up the bulbs they were really large and are thriving near Fredericksburg, Texas in their new home. Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden On Mon, Jul 15, 2013 at 4:44 PM, J.E. Shields wrote: > I'll be sending off some seeds to the Pacific Bulb Society BX soon: Crinum > bulbispermum (misc. garden forms), Zephyranthes tubispathus (cf. > "texanus"), Haemanthus montanus, and Sprekelia howardii. Join PBS as a > dues-paid member now if you want to get any of these seeds: > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/ > > Click on the "membership" link near the top of the page and > pay on line via PayPal. > > Remember, Jim Waddick and I both believe that every garden should be > growing Crinum, like bulbispermum! > > ************************************************* > Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 > P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ > Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA > Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From rosemet@kornet.net Tue, 16 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8BE9E49BA7EE4D57819F005E758F93F1@master096b1202> From: =?utf-8?B?6rmA7Jqp7Je9?= Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 06:33:04 +0900 I am also growing hundreds of c.hedderifolium from the seeds but experiencing every year mice eat seeds but leave unsweeten pot and tubers intact. thanks. kim yong yeob mokpo, s.korea ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pamela Harlow" To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 10:31 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] Cyclamen pods > Deer mice relish cyclamen seeds but spare the tubers. > > -----Original Message----- > > Does anyone know if mice eat the seed or even the tubers? > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From ksayce@willapabay.org Wed, 17 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Cyclamen pods Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 09:15:04 -0700 To contain seeds, I use organza mesh bags placed over each ripening pod, just in case I forget to gather the pod at the right time. This seems to foil the ants, which otherwise carry off the seeds. Of course, it's fun to find new plants in the lawn too. I started doing this to collect PC Iris seeds, which always seem to open explosively right when I'm busy in late summer. It increased my take of iris seeds by at least a factor of 5. Sold as organza party bags in a range of colors. Seeds that need presoaking in water can be kept in the same bags for the soaking period. Kathleen Pacific Northwest coast, zone 8, cool dry summers, mild wet winters From bulborum@gmail.com Thu, 18 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Lilium Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 00:02:02 +0200 I got this message last week I can't help him but maybe one of the other members Roland Here the text Tom Givnish Hi – I'm a plant ecologist / evolutionary biologist and professor at the University of Wisconsin, and am planning to conduct a next-generation sequencing study of the phylogeny and evolution of lilies worldwide. I hear that there is a possibility that you might have plants of Lilium chitrangadae and possibly other species from India/Himalayas in cultivation. Is that true? If so, might there be a possibility, in a coming year, to obtain ca. 3 leaves for DNA analysis? It would be great to include L. chitrangadae, L. mackliniae, L. sheriffiae, or L. neilgherrense in the study! Cheers, Tom Givnish * Henry Allan Gleason Professor of Botany, University of Wisconsin * givnish@wisc.edu R de Boer 2238 Route de la Maugardiere F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com Facebook Groups:https://www.facebook.com/groups/518187888211511/ Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bulborum/452518118130496 From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Fri, 19 Jul 2013 13:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <3F445EBC-3558-4053-8B77-A5F14144C4CA@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northern climate. Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 14:10:11 -0500 Dear Friends, This may be a repeat for many, but it seems to come up again and again. I sent a pound of seed to Dell recently and this works for most hardy crinum seed more or less. There are some variables. Fresh Crinum seed is large, green and fleshy. Big seed can be an inch across, smaller see seed pea size. They do not have a long shelf life and should be planted right away. The initial planting medium is not very important, but I use a commercial potting mix -sometimes add some sand. Use a good size pot - 1 or more seed per pot. 3 seeds in in 5 in pot seems right. Fill to an inch of the top. Press the seed into the soil, but allow at least 1/2 exposed to light. Water well and keep slightly damp. Do not allow to become dry, dry. Seeds germinate within days to a week or two. The primary root will emerge and turn into the soil where it will form a small bulb and foliage will emerge. Seedlings will look like a small scallion. In northern climates (Zone 5/6) these will probably NOT survive a normal winter down to 0 or +5 F. Seedling pots should be kept frost free. If given light and water they will grow slowly all winter even at low/above freezing temps. If kept cool and dark with some water they will sit dormant until spring. First spring I keep them well watered and fertilized in their seedling pot until late summer/ early fall. By fall seeedlings should be more typical scallion size -diameter of a pencil. These can be planted out as deep as possible - 5 or 6 in to base of bulb. And mulched well over winter. 2nd spring, they should really put on growth. Bulbs will pull themselves deeper and can easily triple in size. That winter a little mulch protection will help. 3rd spring they could have first bloom or repeat pattern of 2nd spring, getting bigger. Once established they need a little winter protection, but depends on exact exposure ( full sun recommended). Bloom gets bigger and bigger. Multiple flower spikes etc. Of course there are many specific site variables and each species or cv may also vary somewhat. Hardy Crinums once established are relatively trouble free and will produce large flowers on tall spikes in the heat of summer when little else is blooming in northern gardens. I urge all northern gardeners to give them a try. Some species are far hardier than the literature suggest and are very satisfying garden subjects. In my Kansas City garden I grow over a dozen different species, selections and hybrids and keep finding more with hardiness potential. Grow for it!! Good Luck Jim W. From gentian21@comcast.net Fri, 19 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <4033B856939041E48EFE8CF469951A96@squeeky> From: Subject: How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northernclimate. Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2013 16:24:18 -0500 I have to remove seed heads or else they will self sow. Kept under mulch in winter. I can just dig up seedlings after a year or two. Frank Cooper zone 5-6. -----Original Message----- From: James Waddick Sent: Friday, July 19, 2013 2:10 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: [pbs] How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northernclimate. Dear Friends, This may be a repeat for many, but it seems to come up again and again. I sent a pound of seed to Dell recently and this works for most hardy crinum seed more or less. There are some variables. Fresh Crinum seed is large, green and fleshy. Big seed can be an inch across, smaller see seed pea size. They do not have a long shelf life and should be planted right away. The initial planting medium is not very important, but I use a commercial potting mix -sometimes add some sand. Use a good size pot - 1 or more seed per pot. 3 seeds in in 5 in pot seems right. Fill to an inch of the top. Press the seed into the soil, but allow at least 1/2 exposed to light. Water well and keep slightly damp. Do not allow to become dry, dry. Seeds germinate within days to a week or two. The primary root will emerge and turn into the soil where it will form a small bulb and foliage will emerge. Seedlings will look like a small scallion. In northern climates (Zone 5/6) these will probably NOT survive a normal winter down to 0 or +5 F. Seedling pots should be kept frost free. If given light and water they will grow slowly all winter even at low/above freezing temps. If kept cool and dark with some water they will sit dormant until spring. First spring I keep them well watered and fertilized in their seedling pot until late summer/ early fall. By fall seeedlings should be more typical scallion size -diameter of a pencil. These can be planted out as deep as possible - 5 or 6 in to base of bulb. And mulched well over winter. 2nd spring, they should really put on growth. Bulbs will pull themselves deeper and can easily triple in size. That winter a little mulch protection will help. 3rd spring they could have first bloom or repeat pattern of 2nd spring, getting bigger. Once established they need a little winter protection, but depends on exact exposure ( full sun recommended). Bloom gets bigger and bigger. Multiple flower spikes etc. Of course there are many specific site variables and each species or cv may also vary somewhat. Hardy Crinums once established are relatively trouble free and will produce large flowers on tall spikes in the heat of summer when little else is blooming in northern gardens. I urge all northern gardeners to give them a try. Some species are far hardier than the literature suggest and are very satisfying garden subjects. In my Kansas City garden I grow over a dozen different species, selections and hybrids and keep finding more with hardiness potential. Grow for it!! Good Luck Jim W. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 20 Jul 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <3DE0AAF8-37E5-4941-8EC5-C7C47F04E1D3@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in a northernclimate. Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 08:45:12 -0500 Dear Frank and all, Well I guess I should have said they do self sow in that after seed falls, it germinates and develops, but without protection they do not survive winter. Sounds like you have enough mulch protection to keep them alive over that first winter. I bring new seedlings into a frost free area to insure survival. They are definitely a very hardy species, but I doubt you will find them spreading around the garden in Zone 5/6. What other hardy Crinum do you grow? Jim W. On Jul 19, 2013, at 4:24 PM, wrote: > I have to remove seed heads or else they will self sow. Kept under mulch in > winter. I can just dig up seedlings after a year or two. > Frank Cooper zone 5-6. From gentian21@comcast.net Sat, 20 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Subject: How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in anorthernclimate. Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 11:51:13 -0500 Of course we don't have real winters anymore. That is the only one I have in the ground. I have no room. I have a super Ellen, an Ellen and a red white stripe whatever. -----Original Message----- From: James Waddick Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 8:45 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] How to Grow Crinum bulbispermum from seed in anorthernclimate. Dear Frank and all, Well I guess I should have said they do self sow in that after seed falls, it germinates and develops, but without protection they do not survive winter. Sounds like you have enough mulch protection to keep them alive over that first winter. I bring new seedlings into a frost free area to insure survival. They are definitely a very hardy species, but I doubt you will find them spreading around the garden in Zone 5/6. What other hardy Crinum do you grow? Jim W. On Jul 19, 2013, at 4:24 PM, wrote: > I have to remove seed heads or else they will self sow. Kept under mulch > in > winter. I can just dig up seedlings after a year or two. > Frank Cooper zone 5-6. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 20 Jul 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: 2013 MSI Grant winner Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 14:17:59 -0700 Dear PBS and List members, The PBS is pleased to award Cody Howard the Mary Sue Ittner Grant for Bulb Research for the year 2013. Cody currently works at the Huntington Botanical Garden. He is interested in Ledebouria and will be using the award to travel to Namibia to collect material for his future research. As many of you know, the genus Ledebouria has been worked on and improved, but there is much work to be done, particularly Namibian species. Cody has already contributed very nice images of bulbs, particularly of ledebourias to our wiki (http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Ledebouria). Congrats, Cody and best wishes with your project. We look forward to hearing what you have learned about these really great bulbs! Nhu PBS President From xerantheum@gmail.com Sat, 20 Jul 2013 15:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2013 14:25:47 -0700 Dear all, This would be the third annual email that I sent out to the group requesting your help to collect data for a project. The main goal is to collect blooming time of Amaryllis belladonna to determine what cause the flowers to break dormancy and start growing. So far based on two year's data, the blooming time correlated with temperature. To be really sure, we will have to get at least one more year's worth of data. This is where you can help. Please visit the survey form below: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/gform?key=0Arc4VKQCBjjldE55Rmtrem5EaHRtZW9YQmk4aUZEbEE&gridId=0#edit Once you're there, just fill in the blanks and that's it. Please feel free to fill in as many times as you wish. Once this year's data collection is complete, I will analyze the data and tell you what I've learned. Thank you very much! Nhu From jshields@indy.net Sun, 21 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5.1.0.14.2.20130721114319.0349fe88@pop.indy.net> From: "J.E. Shields" Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:47:12 -0400 Does anyone know offhand a good liquid medium for testing pollen germination? I had such a recipe once, but can't find it now. I have a lot of rather old samples of frozen dried pollen in my freezer that I want to start checking on. This is just to look at under a microscope, count, and discard. Jim ************************************************* Jim Shields USDA Zone 5 P.O. Box 92 WWW: http://www.shieldsgardens.com/ Westfield, Indiana 46074, USA Lat. 40° 02.8' N, Long. 086° 06.6' W From ksayce@willapabay.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 09:13:38 -0700 Short of sprouting pollen on agar, I don't have a good formula to check germination, but I do know about checking pollen viability: Use the blue dye Cotton Blue. Put your pollen on a slide in water, add a drop off Cotton Blue (soluble in aqueous media), let it sit a few minutes, add a cover slip and check under the 'scope. The viable pollen will have taken up the dye and be blue, and the nonviable pollen will be colorless. Kathleen From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 21 Jul 2013 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 10:07:07 -0700 Hi everyone, I sent out the wrong link. Please use this one instead. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?userstoinvite=bobrutem%40gmail.com&formkey=dE55Rmtrem5EaHRtZW9YQmk4aUZEbEE6MA#gid=0 Thanks, Nhu On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 2:25 PM, Nhu Nguyen wrote: > Dear all, > > This would be the third annual email that I sent out to the group > requesting your help to collect data for a project. The main goal is > to collect blooming time of Amaryllis belladonna to determine what > cause the flowers to break dormancy and start growing. > From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <861e41437234d8268dc7fb5e58a945cb.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Sinningia tubiflora Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 10:57:10 -0700 (PDT) I have posted before about my Sinningia tubiflora. I grow it in full summer sun here in Phoenix, Arizona in the Sonoran Desert. It is in sun for at least 6 hours per day. I use somewhat large containers; this year it is in a terra-cotta colored, round plastic container about 10" / 25cm across and deep. I do not let it dry out when in active growth. Under my conditions the leaves are thick and folded, a nice light green, with a very heavy fur coat of white hairs. It flowers continuously all summer. In mid June we had an unusually hot week. Daytime temperatures at my house ranged from 112 F / 44C to 122 F / 50C. Though the soil was moist, all the above-ground Sinningia burned to a dry crisp. I dug down into the soil and found the tubers in fine shape. Now, three weeks later, the plant is sprouting normal new growth. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 20:04:30 +0200 That is the question i wanted to ask too. I'll try PDA (potato dextrose agar), but i think there are more suited recepies. Janos Hungary, Z5a From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Amoreuxia Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:24:35 -0700 (PDT) Shawn Pollard donated Amoreuxia gonzalezii and A. palmatifida to BX 320 last year. They are native to southern Arizona and northern Sonora, Mexico. A. g. is known from only 2 populations in the US, with perhaps less than 100 individuals total. A. p. is more common. There is one more species in the US, A. wrightii from Texas. If any of you in Texas have this, it would be nice add to the BX. I planted 4 A. palmatifida and 5 A. gonzalezii seeds in late August 2012. As I reported in my August 29 2012 message to the list, one A. g. sprouted and three A. p. They grew last year and went dormant. This spring we had warm weather by mid March and I began watering all my warm growers. Nothing sprouted in the Amoreuxia containers. I was worrying until I recalled they respond to monsoon conditions. Our monsoon normally begins around the second week of July. I continued watering and they sprouted in early June, before our monsoon arrived. All 4 plants returned. They grew strongly and A. gonzalezii bloomed for the first time July 18 2013. I saw the flower on my way to the truck to go to work so I didn't have time to photograph it. By the time I returned it was almost closed. Since then we have had rain, which spoiled the open flowers, or I have not had time to take a photo but I will try to do so. The others formed buds but the buds aborted. The A. palmatifida plants are not as large as the A. gonzalezii, and perhaps I didn't water them enough. Both species are still growing well and forming new buds. The inflorescence is a curved cyme, with one flower opening per day. They seem to open in the wee hours of the morning, and close by evening. I tried to self the first flower but it seemed there was no pollen, even after crushing the anthers. Maybe the pollen dried and died shortly after anthesis. The flowers are an apricot yellowish orange; this is a color that frequently denotes beetle pollination, and many such flowers require some crushing of the anthers to release pollen. Those of you growing yellow-flowered Uncarina spp can keep this in mind. I am sure Tim Harvey could expand on this. I am going to try and make some seed for the BX. These are really beautiful plants with a large flower for their size. I used 5 gallon containers filled with native soil because they have very long roots, like a carrot. I wanted to grow them in the same container for years. I bought a seedling A. palmatifida some years ago in a 2" / 5cm diameter container; I didn't understand how it grows and it died when I didn't water it enough. I would guess once the roots are larger the plant would be very drought tolerant. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA Leo Martin From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <99c0e9e288191f0dbee90c0cc42fdb8b.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Monsoon Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:26:49 -0700 (PDT) We have had a wet week. Over the last hour I had well over an inch / 25mm of rain here at my house. Now the sun is coming out. This was supposed to be an outdoor gardening day but I don't mind the rain at all. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <29d9336881ee58f40d39aa4600d9b8bc.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Amoreuxia in the Netherlands Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 11:37:05 -0700 (PDT) Aad van Beek wrote a message to the list (Thu, 30 Aug 2012 12:23:52 PDT): > I got the seeds today. > Do they need to be potted right away in such > large pots as it is only 22 C over-here and > certainly in the winter they will be on the > attic with modest light at 5 C > > Aad van Beek > > Groningen, The Netherlands Sorry, I didn't see your message last year or I would have replied. I just found it now when I searched the archives for Amoreuxia. I used the large pots because I planned on keeping small colonies in them for years. Amoreuxia grows a root like a carrot, so the pot needs to be deep. They grow in cracks between rocks so I think the pot can be very narrow. If I went nuts for them and had to have a huge collection I might consider growing them in lengths of 2" / 5cm diameter PVC irrigation pipe stood on end. They go completely dormant in fall. The tops die. They can be kept without water; I would think in the dark would be fine. And mine tolerated winter temperatures into the mid teens F or -9C while dormant and dry (I think.) This is probably colder than they would get in habitat. Leo Martin From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 21 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374439155.37266.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Sinningia tubiflora Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 13:39:15 -0700 (PDT) I've grown it under what amount to field conditions here in Maryland: full blazing sun all day. It grows like a weed (a nice weed). So far I have not tried it outside for the winter.  Some plants stored in plastic bags for the winter and not yet planted have sprouted in the bags (they are out on the deck)  and produced healthy growth - there is no soil in the bags, but they do get water.  These appear to be very tough plants. Last year when I dug them I was surprised to see the nice clutch of "potatoes" - are these edible?  Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where we've been in the steam bath for a couple of weeks.  From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 21 Jul 2013 14:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <26623936.207497.1374439759506.JavaMail.root@vms170027> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 15:49:19 -0500 (CDT) Leo: I've been meaning to write about a similar problem I'm having. I got one of the tubers of Impatiens flanaganae and have been struggling to grow it. I've tried in the greenhouse under shade cloth, outside in the shade. No luck. Do I really need an air conditioned greenhouse to grow this. Arnold Cooling NJ On 07/21/13, Leo A. Martin wrote: I have posted before about my Sinningia tubiflora. From othonna@gmail.com Sun, 21 Jul 2013 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Amoreuxia Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 14:56:54 -0700 Re: container size for Amoreuxia, I grew A. palmatifida (from seed) in a 6" pot for about ten years. It flowered well usually and was kept in a warm greenhouse. I think summer nights in CA are too cool for it to thrive. It really is a beautiful plant as are the remaining species. A Southwest regional endemic genus, except for a remarkable jump to a dry area of Peru on the Amazonian slope. Dylan -- ** * "In all toil there is profit, but mere talk tends only to poverty."Proverbs 14:23 * From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <0fbb7d11b58c687e38c4923373cb0238.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Amoreuxia added to Wiki Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 15:45:50 -0700 (PDT) Hello All, I just added an Amoreuxia page to the Wiki. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Amoreuxia Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From leo@possi.org Sun, 21 Jul 2013 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <90c5990c40417cfac6a5b6b88d3931a7.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Added Peniocereus to Wiki Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2013 16:51:26 -0700 (PDT) Hello All, I just added genus Peniocereus to the wiki, with one entry, P. striatus. This is a genus of tuberous cacti. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Peniocereus Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sun, 21 Jul 2013 23:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <63C1B976-799C-4AA9-AC3E-8E432978998F@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 00:22:49 -0500 Dear Arnold, I got a tuber form BX years ago. Grew and bloomed it, donated tubers and bloomed it again, then gave away the lot. To much trouble. It went dormant in summer heat and is a winter grower. Not very simple in my very cold winter climate. when growing well and in full foliage and flower it is very nice, but it can be grown even here in Kansas City. Best Jim W. On Jul 21, 2013, at 3:49 PM, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > > > I've been meaning to write about a similar problem I'm having. I got one of the tubers of Impatiens flanaganae and have been struggling to grow it. I've tried in the greenhouse under shade cloth, outside in the shade. No luck. > > Do I really need an air conditioned greenhouse to grow this. > From arnold140@verizon.net Mon, 22 Jul 2013 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <6579884.171914.1374488357328.JavaMail.root@vznit170158> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 05:19:17 -0500 (CDT) Jim: Everywhere I looked they say it's a summer grower. I know the heat here is what did it in. Should I try it in a cool greenhouse this winter? I keep it just at 45 min. Temp. Arnold From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374495058.74536.YahooMailNeo@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 05:10:58 -0700 (PDT) Dear All,          The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.     If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at . Include "BX 341" in the subject line.           Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I don't already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 -$5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added.        Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:            If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:   Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA   Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.               I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !!   From Nhu Nguyen:   KEY: S = summer growing, W = winter growing, OP = open pollinated, CP = control pollinated   SEEDS: 1. Albuca spiralis - [W, OP] this plant selfs and there were no other Albuca blooming at the same time. 2. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pod) x Augrabies Hills (pollen) [W, CP] - tentatively identified as forms of Albuca polyphylla 3. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pollen) x Augrabies Hills (pod) [W, CP] - tentatively identified as forms of Albuca polyphylla 4. Babiana "longituba" [W, OP] 5. Gladiolus splendens [W, OP] 6. Gladiolus quadrangularis [W, OP] 7. Gladiolus alatus [W, OP] 8. Geissorhiza radians [W, OP] 9. Geissorhiza corrugata [W, OP] 10. Geissorhiza aspera [W, OP] 11. Sparaxis elegans [W, OP] 12. Sparaxis tricolor [W, OP] 13. Hesperantha bachmannii [W, OP] no other Hesperantha were blooming at the same time 14. Massonia pustulata NNBH905 [W, OP] originally from Paul Cumbleton, BX181, described as having very few pustules 15. Massonia aff. pustulata NNBH786 [W, OP] originally from Roy Herold, BX174 16. Lachenalia ensifolia (syn Polyxena pygmaea) [W, OP] 17. Rauhia multiflora [S, CP] 18. Calochortus umbellatus [W, OP] 19. Triteleia lugens [W, CP] 20. Delphinium nudicaule [W, CP] these seeds should be pure 21. Lewisia brachycalyx [W, CP] 22. Fritillaria affinis robust x normal form [W, CP] - we had a discussion about the robust form before that it may be a triploid. However, it crossed just fine with a regular form, from a different location, so I don't think it's a triploid. The seedlings should be an interesting mix of sizes and colors.   BULBS: 23. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1306 24. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1304 25. Hippeastrum striatum 26. Sparaxis elegans 27. Sparaxis tricolor   From Stephen Gregg:   28. Seed of Pancratium maritimum   From Ray Talley:   29. Seed of Veltheimia bracteata, pink form, though about 10% turn out to be yellow; ex Cal State Fullerton   From Karl Church:   30. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Orange Sovereign', OP 31. Seed of Hippeastrum 'Minerva' , OP   From Jim Waddick:   32. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum, 'Jumbo' 33. Seed of Crinum macowanii   From Jim Shields:   34. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum 35. Seed of Hymenocallis guerreroensis (VERY FEW) 36. Seed of Hymenocallis franklinensis  (VERY FEW) 37. Seed of Haemanthus montanus (FEW) 38. Seed of Sprekelia howardii 39. Seed of Habranthus tubispathus cf texanus 40. Seed of Crinum bulbispermum   Thank you, Nhu, Stephen, Ray, Karl, Jim and Jim !!   Best wishes, Dell   Dell Sherk, PBS BX From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 08:43:54 -0500 On Jul 22, 2013, at 5:19 AM, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > Everywhere I looked they say it's a summer grower. > Dear Arnold, I don't think 'They' know what summer is like in Kansas City. My problem was keeping it alive and dormant during the heat of summer. Too dry it shrivels, too wet it rots. Goldilocks time. MY GH in winter can get down into the 30s, but frost free. Good luck. Jim W. ps I suspect if you keep it cool enough to have less heat stress in summer here it might try to go into active growth, then you have to keep it cool and bright light. Not so good. From jgglatt@gmail.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51ED49AA.8090105@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Titan Arum in Flower at US Botanic Garden Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 11:03:06 -0400 http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-205_162-57594826/corpse-flower-blooming-at-u.s-botanic-garden/ Several nice images, short write-up, and even a video. Judy in torrid NJ where today's temperature is a (cool by comparison) 84 degrees Fahrenheit. And perhaps, if we're fortunate, we might get some rain From leo@possi.org Mon, 22 Jul 2013 09:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <9fc4a3dfc0431188369515a5ce384df8.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 08:44:01 -0700 (PDT) Arnold asked me > I've been meaning to write about a similar problem > I'm having. I got one of the tubers of Impatiens > flanaganae and have been struggling to grow it. > I've tried in the greenhouse under shade cloth, > outside in the shade. No luck. > > Do I really need an air conditioned greenhouse > to grow this. I've never grown this plant. I went looking for information; the best I found was this: https://paulshirleysucculents.wordpress.com/category/impatiens/ Paul Shirley appears to be located in the Netherlands, and he says of this plant, "... it can also be grown in a cool greenhouse." When I was in the Netherlands I thought it was always cool, though I was only there for three weeks one June. No wonder the Dutch traders went far away to the tropics. It comes from the mouth of the St. John's River in Natal, South Africa. I can't find this river name in any search engine, but there is a city called Port St. John's in Natal, South Africa, on the mouth of what is called the Mzimvubu River or Umzimvubu River. I am guessing this might be what was once called the St. John's River and it has been scrubbed from history, the way some Pharaohs erased the names of their predecessors. Port St. John's is at approximately 30 degrees south latitude, similar to Coffs Harbour, Australia (south of Brisbane on the east coast.) 30 degrees north corresponds to places like Jacksonville, Florida, USA and Shanghai, China. The climate would be subtropical, never really hot but not cool in summer, and very humid all year, especially if it grows in the understory of forest. I wouldn't expect it to be cool except in winter. Rain falls mainly in summer. And being an understory plant maybe it would tolerate light levels inside a house near a window; many people's houses are cooler than their greenhouses or even the outdoors in summer. Maybe somebody on the list from South Africa can elaborate on the climate at Port St. John's. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 11:17:11 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 11:11:34 -0700 Hi Arnold, I grow this plant successfully in Berkeley, but even our autumn heat here (yes, it's warmest from September to October here) where daytime temperature can get to 90F can cause the plant to go dormant. The trick is to keep it from getting too hot or too cold because it will go dormant under those conditions. In your area, I suggest you grow it as a winter grower where night time temp is min 45F but daytime temp should be in the high 50's or 60's otherwise the tubers won't break dormancy. When it's in dormancy, keep it dry-ish and somewhere nice and cool. Nhu Berkeley, CA On Mon, Jul 22, 2013 at 3:19 AM, wrote: > Everywhere I looked they say it's a summer grower. > I know the heat here is what did it in. Should I try it in a cool > greenhouse this winter? > I keep it just at 45 min. Temp. > From othonna@gmail.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 11:21:52 -0700 I've grown this plant in Los Angeles for several years and it seems happy enough. Depending on when it gets going and on spring weather, it can bloom in early summer and then take a flowering breakn during peak heat until cooler early fall weather, then blooms again. Seems to enjoy daytime heat (with plenty of shade and water) but the key I suspect is cooler night temps, i.e., below 70-75F. It is totally leafless in winter dormancy here and kept outdoors (lows 30s to 40s) dry or with a little moisture. The tubers seem to like being planted shallow and even exposed a little. Dylan * * > ** > ** ** * * From avbeek1@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 20:38:06 -0300 Hi Dell, I would like to obtain the following numbers 2. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pod) x Augrabies Hills (pollen) 3. Albuca sp. Willowmore (pollen) x Augrabies Hills 17. Rauhia multiflora 23. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1306 24. Hippeastrum petiolatum NNBH1304 28. Pancratium maritimum 32. Crinum bulbispermum, 'Jumbo' 33. Crinum macowanii 34. Crinum bulbispermum 35. Hymenocallis guerreroensis (VERY FEW) 36. Hymenocallis franklinensis (VERY FEW) 37. Haemanthus montanus (FEW) 38. Sprekelia howardii 39. Habranthus tubispathus cf texanus 40. Crinum bulbispermum Kind Regards, Aad van Beek G.C. Marshallstraat 30 9728WS Groningen The Netherlands From Jadeboy48@aol.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <907c3.96df81d.3f1f2f47@aol.com> From: Jadeboy48@aol.com Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 126, Issue 28 Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 20:58:47 -0400 (EDT) Sorry I had trouble with your spreadsheet but I am partially paralysed. I am a retired nurseryman with about 40 years growing experience with Amaryllids. I have lived on the west side of the Phoenix valley, plus I have a friend that has grown Belladonna in central Phoenix 20plus years. Summer temps are topped out around 125F,winter about20F. Here in the dry SW spring watering is critical for Amaryllids to flower not temp. Dormant bulbs heavily watered bloom in about 8 weeks.By heavy watering I mean weekly soaking. No rain for the past 8 months,we had several inches over the past 3 days. I would expect flowering later this year. Other bulb relatives like Habranthus will flower at 125F if they are watered every other day as will Rhodphiala and Crinums.Sprekelia bloom around oct no matter what the water pattern is. If I can help you in any way I can be reached at _jadeboy48@aol.com_ (mailto:jadeboy48@aol.com) , Best wishes Russ Hintz-PBS Member In a message dated 7/22/2013 9:15:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org writes: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/gform? From avbeek1@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Impatiens flanaganae Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2013 22:49:34 -0300 About 20 years ago I've grown this plant for about 6 years. It would stay outside from early june till end of september in a spot where it was getting direct sunlight till 11 am. In Holland in july and august temperatures are normally in 20-28C (68-84F) and occasionally can get up to 33C (92F) only for short periods of time. It seems at the moment Holland is facing such a hot period. The plant was watered regularly and did grow well, but it bloomed sparsely from mid july till end of august. In the winter the plant was kept dry, ones all the leaves had been dropped. It was stored on the attic at 5C (40F) in a very dark spot. Usually started watering again mid march. Aad From a hot and sweaty Paramaribo From ds429@frontier.com Tue, 23 Jul 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374581722.45629.YahooMailNeo@web121903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 CLOSED Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 05:15:22 -0700 (PDT) There are still Crinum bulbispermum seeds left, however.   Dell From fasuamo@hotmail.com Tue, 23 Jul 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Fabio Francisco Suarez Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 20:05:54 -0500 Greetings to all Jim. A liquid culture medium for pollen would be: To one liter of water. Calcium nitrate Ca (NO3) 2 300 milligrams (mgr) Magnesium nitrate Mg(NO3) 2 250 mgr Potassium nitrate KNO3 50 mgr Sugar 30 grams Take a small amount, add the pollen, at 6 hours look with a microscope, viable pollen there will be formed a polinic tube regards Fabio F From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 24 Jul 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 15:45:25 +0100 Hi, The lily bulbs page on the wiki was discussed here a few months back, as a result of that discussion Pontus Wallsten has let us use his remarkable photo resource of lily bulbs to produce a new page for the wiki, featuring photos of the bulbs of nearly 50 species, which you can see here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LiliumBulbs The world of lily bulbs now needs its Mendeleev [1]. [1] the chemistry periodic table guy. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Wed, 24 Jul 2013 08:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <82396455-7AB0-4DAD-AD07-3D9768138F7B@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 10:01:11 -0500 > The lily bulbs page on the wiki was discussed here a few months back, as > a result of that discussion Pontus Wallsten has let us use his > remarkable photo resource of lily bulbs to produce a new page for the > wiki, featuring photos of the bulbs of nearly 50 species, which you can > see here: > > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/LiliumBulbs Dear David and Pontus, Thanks for adding this incredible resource. I have one complaint ; Many of the pix are shown with a coin. I am not sure what this coin is ( 1 £ ?) and if so, I do not know how big a 1 £ coin is compared to a US cent , Quarter (25¢), etc. The pix with a golf ball are actually easier to figure since the 'golf ball' is a world standard of measure (I think). best and thanks again. Jim W. From weedtickler@yahoo.com Fri, 26 Jul 2013 02:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374679027.1918.YahooMailNeo@web140703.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Sue Cancilla-Conde Subject: Sue Cancilla-Conde Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 08:17:07 -0700 (PDT) good afternoon!fox news http://computersoutlook.com/daan/awi.php?from=Sue_Cancilla_Conde Sue Cancilla-Conde From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Wed, 24 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 16:40:18 +0100 Hi, In message <82396455-7AB0-4DAD-AD07-3D9768138F7B@kc.rr.com>, James Waddick writes > Thanks for adding this incredible resource. I have one complaint >; Many of the pix are shown with a coin. I am not sure what this coin >is ( 1 £ ?) As it says at the top of that page: "Photos by David Pilling sometimes show a UK £1 coin which is around an inch in diameter. " I've used a pound coin on many wiki photos - when you're outside in the wet it makes taking photos doable. Other photos on the wiki use other metrics - hands, fingers, car keys. I'm not sure this works well. A grid seems better. -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From ksayce@willapabay.org Wed, 24 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <344229F9-F6D6-4235-B031-88EFD4AB1DB9@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 09:14:20 -0700 Thanks very much for taking the time to develop and post this page. This is a wonderful resource for those of us who are silly over lilies. Kathleen From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 24 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 11:05:05 -0700 Regarding showing size scale in photos: This spring I wanted to illustrate a very tiny form of Fritillaria affinis (seed collected on serpentine in the Siskiyou Mountains), and I photographed it with a 6-inch/15-cm ruler, black scale on white plastic. I secured a ground pin (heavy U-shaped wire) to the back of the ruler so I could set it in the soil beside the plants. I got some of these short rulers, strangely enough, as packing material in something else I ordered. You can buy similar ones at sewing supply departments. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 08:40 AM 7/24/2013, you wrote: >I've used a pound coin on many wiki photos - when you're outside in the >wet it makes taking photos doable. > >Other photos on the wiki use other metrics - hands, fingers, car keys. >I'm not sure this works well. A grid seems better. From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed, 24 Jul 2013 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <52D025D7-3F14-4FBB-8F15-D3D2474EB7B8@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 12:49:11 -0700 On 2013-07-24, at 8:01 AM, James Waddick wrote: >> Many of the pix are shown with a coin. I am not sure what this coin is ( 1 £ ?) and if so, I do not know how big a 1 £ coin is compared to a US cent , Quarter (25¢), etc. I dug into my sock drawer for my bags of foreign coins and it doesn't look like any of them. However, in case it is a newer version of £1, I compared its size with U.S. and Canadian money - slightly larger than a nickel and slightly smaller than a quarter. One Euro is almost the same size as a quarter. Both European coins are thicker than North American ones. Diane Whitehead Canada From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed, 24 Jul 2013 17:17:21 -0700 Message-Id: <76712C87-5D1C-4A23-96A7-8705765748C8@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: showing size in photo: was New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2013 16:56:49 -0700 On 2013-07-24, at 11:05 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > Regarding showing size scale in photos: …………. I photographed it with a > 6-inch/15-cm ruler, black scale on white plastic. I secured a ground > pin (heavy U-shaped wire) to the back of the ruler so I could set it > in the soil beside the plants. If one wants a grid instead of a ruler, it is possible to Xerox or laser print a grid onto a piece of clear plastic. Diane Whitehead From Krinon@afrikana.org Thu, 25 Jul 2013 01:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Krinon" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 08:58:27 +0100 Hello Dell, I sent you two messages on 22nd and 23rd, to both your email addresses, but didn't get any reply yet. Did you receive them? Regards, Giuseppe From ds429@comcast.net Thu, 25 Jul 2013 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <001f01ce892d$bc3d7140$34b853c0$@net> From: "Dell Sherk" Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 07:54:29 -0400 I am sorry, but I did not received any messages from you. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Krinon Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2013 3:58 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 341 Hello Dell, I sent you two messages on 22nd and 23rd, to both your email addresses, but didn't get any reply yet. Did you receive them? Regards, Giuseppe From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51F12E82.2030606@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: New lily bulbs wiki page Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 14:56:18 +0100 Congratulations on this fine addition to the pbs wiki. I have used it to give a little "advert" in the SRGC forum to the PBS. As David had already stated on the wiki page, the £1 coins are approx one inch across - the same size as a 1Euro coin. M. From mmattus@charter.net Thu, 25 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 10:34:35 -0400 I am about to repot many of my Cyclamen species, and I often don't think much about the soil, or medium used. I use ProMix BX mixed with Perlite, or gravelly grit and sand, but I would love to know what other people use? I had read that some growers use a mixture composed primarily of perlite, or of a Perlite mix - which I wanted to try this year, but I can't seem to find my recipe today! What works for you? I have mostly Cyclamen hederifolium, C. coum, C. graecum and C. rolfsianum. In pots, in a summer-dry greenhouse. Matt Mattus Worcester, MA USDA Zone 6 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1374763475.61627.YahooMailNeo@web160902.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Calydorea amabilis Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 07:44:35 -0700 (PDT) Does anyone know the hardiness/zone for Calydorea amabilis? Jonathan Lubar Alachua/Gainesville Florida z8a/9b From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1374763722.38090.YahooMailNeo@web160901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Calydorea coelestina Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 07:48:42 -0700 (PDT) I am seeking seed of Calydorea coelestina/Bartram's ixia (which is back to being Salpingostylis coelestina on the Plant List).  Is anybody growing it? Thanks, Jonathan Lubar Alachua/Gainesville Florida z8b/9a From dkramb@badbear.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Calydorea coelestina Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 11:52:18 -0400 The only place I've noticed it for sale was via Plant Delights Nursery. But at present they are sold out. http://plantdelights.com/Catalog/Current/Detail/calydorea_coelestina_05020.html Seed is occasionally available through SIGNA or PBS BX. Dennis in Cincinnati On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 10:48 AM, jonathan wrote: > I am seeking seed of Calydorea coelestina/Bartram's ixia (which is back to > being Salpingostylis coelestina on the Plant List). Is anybody growing it? > > Thanks, > > Jonathan Lubar > Alachua/Gainesville Florida z8b/9a > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From richrd@nas.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Richard Subject: scaling with Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 09:36:44 -0700 Scaling with common object - my cell phone Camassia leichtleinii ssp suksdorfii production bed sample http://flic.kr/p/fgJypY Also first time I've observed - offsets on growing stem of Lilium dauricum http://flic.kr/p/fguM6r From robin@hansennursery.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1374786989.711927296@mail.hansennursery.com> From: robin@hansennursery.com Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 14:16:29 -0700 (PDT) Matt, For years I've used a Eugene company's "potting mix" which consists of compost, fine bark, sand and pumice with the merest touch of starter fertilizer. The last two years or so I have added additional pumice, so that the pumice makes up 1/4 to 1/3 of the mix, then add a tablespoon of bonemeal, stirred in. I also make sure I don't use any larger pot size than absolutely necessary. The other consideration I give is to where in my shade house or canyard I place the cyclamen. Purpurascens, parvifolium and repandum go to the shadier end, as do balearicum, cyprium and libanoticum. Graecum goes out in full sun, even in pots, and persicum and africanum are on the sunniest end of the shade house, where at times in the summer they receive brief full sun, since the end of the house is open in the summer and has no end shade cloth. Just keep in mind that I'm on the southwest coast of Oregon a mile and a half in from the beach, with summer fogs and lots of wind. Although this summer, we have been decidedly warmer on a day-to-day basis. Watering has to be watched carefully with this free-draining mix and I will often "swipe" the containers when dormant almost daily. In other words, they receive a bit of moisture but definitely not a soaking. Robin Hansen Hansen Nursery Southwestern Oregon Coast, USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 18:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Calydorea amabilis Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:57:39 +0000 In the wild zone 10a/10b, winter growing, summer dormant. Flowers in the autumn AND in spring. Lots of moisture. From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 18:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Calydorea coelestina Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 00:59:28 +0000 I treasured it for several years from an exchange until it flowered to be commonest Herbertia lahue. From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374805038.52329.YahooMailNeo@web160901.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Calydorea amabilis Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 19:17:18 -0700 (PDT) Alberto, thank you! Jonathan Lubar Alachua/Gainesville Florida, z8b/9a > > From fatsia1234-pbs1@yahoo.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1374805043.37828.YahooMailNeo@web160904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: jonathan Subject: Calydorea coelestina Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 19:17:23 -0700 (PDT) Thank you, Dennis and Alberto.  I have located a local native nurseryman who has seedlings that he expects will flower next spring.  He also has plants of Nemastylis floridana that will flower this fall.  I'm planning on getting some of each and hope to eventually provide seed for the BX. > > >Jonathan Lubar >Alachua/Gainesville Florida, z8b/9a > > > From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 20:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Castillo Subject: Calydorea amabilis Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 02:22:56 +0000 AND, it can grow and flower in the deepest shade (it does so in the wild) From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Thu, 25 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2013 20:22:36 -0700 Wow! Interesting about that potting mix, Robin. I avoid bark in ANY mix, like the plague. I find, it's great for drainage in the very short term, but when it starts to decompose, it invites Phytopthera lickity split. I know you're a pro at Cyclamen, so I'm sure it works for you. Mixes not only depend on ingredients but the skill and habits of the grower. For instance , a heavy waterer would definitely need a super drained soil. I know of a grower who uses nearly pure sand, and repot his plants right away , as i know i can have better control over my own mix. Just sayin. On Thu, Jul 25, 2013 at 2:16 PM, wrote: > > > Matt, > > For years I've used a Eugene company's "potting mix" which consists of > compost, fine bark, sand and pumice with the merest touch of starter > fertilizer. The last two years or so I have added additional pumice, so > that the pumice makes up 1/4 to 1/3 of the mix, then add a tablespoon of > bonemeal, stirred in. I also make sure I don't use any larger pot size > than absolutely necessary. > > The other consideration I give is to where in my shade house or canyard I > place the cyclamen. Purpurascens, parvifolium and repandum go to the > shadier end, as do balearicum, cyprium and libanoticum. Graecum goes out > in full sun, even in pots, and persicum and africanum are on the sunniest > end of the shade house, where at times in the summer they receive brief > full sun, since the end of the house is open in the summer and has no end > shade cloth. > > Just keep in mind that I'm on the southwest coast of Oregon a mile and a > half in from the beach, with summer fogs and lots of wind. Although this > summer, we have been decidedly warmer on a day-to-day basis. Watering has > to be watched carefully with this free-draining mix and I will often > "swipe" the containers when dormant almost daily. In other words, they > receive a bit of moisture but definitely not a soaking. > > Robin Hansen > Hansen Nursery > Southwestern Oregon Coast, USA > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Fri, 26 Jul 2013 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <5B010058D2C245009813E1CB4721BD1C@yourfe7fbfa660> From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: IRG and the World of Bulbs Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 11:21:25 +0100 I invite you to take time from your busy lives to relax and read the latest issue of the International Rock Gardener: For the 'world of bulbs' Jan Jílek, a nurseryman who divides his time between the Czech Republic and Samarkand in Uzbekistan, gives an overview of Juno zaprjagajewii ( Iris zaprjagajewii ). Gerrit Eijkelenboom and his wife enjoy plant hunting by camera and he contributes photos of some orchids seen recently in Crete. Main IRG menu: http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/index.php?log=international M.Y. From ds429@frontier.com Fri, 26 Jul 2013 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1374834137.6239.YahooMailNeo@web121906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: My email messages Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 03:22:17 -0700 (PDT) Dear All,   My email messages are apparently not all being received by some of you. I am working on this problem, but I have received an order from everyone who has written again out of concern.   Best wishes, Dell From mmattus@charter.net Fri, 26 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Matt Mattus Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 22:00:44 -0400 Robin, Thanks for the advice! I was beginning to worry as I didn't hear back from anyone~! I had been following the advice of John Lonsdale, as he has similar conditions as I do, since he is in eastern PA and I am in Massachusetts. However, he uses a mixture of Biocomp ( composted peanut hulls and potting mix) along with perlite), but I find that this drys out too quickly, even in the winter. I am planning to repot this weekend using the Cyclamen society's advice to use 50% composted bark mulch ( which I have a lot of) and then adding 25% perlite and 25% promix. Adjusting the recipe with composted, shredded pine needles for the C. graecum, and perhaps sand for some other species. I really respect your advice, Robin, as you have about as much experience and anyone I know with the genus. I grow my cyclamen in a raised sand bed in a glass greenhouse, which is covered with shade cloth in the summer. I do keep the sand slightly damp for the C. graecum, as the roots do extend down into the sand, but I must admit that I am not a Cyclamen geek, so I do get lazy and sometimes forget to water, fertilize, or even groom. Matt Mattus Zone 6 Worcester, MA On 7/25/13 5:16 PM, "robin@hansennursery.com" wrote: > > > Matt, > > For years I've used a Eugene company's "potting mix" which consists of > compost, fine bark, sand and pumice with the merest touch of starter > fertilizer. The last two years or so I have added additional pumice, so that > the pumice makes up 1/4 to 1/3 of the mix, then add a tablespoon of bonemeal, > stirred in. I also make sure I don't use any larger pot size than absolutely > n From Krinon@afrikana.org Sat, 27 Jul 2013 01:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <42A86B4489504DE2858D289FD36F68D0@GG2> From: "Krinon" Subject: My email messages Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 08:21:08 +0100 Hello Dell, It seems it is a problem with your server, as you said you haven't received my order I sent twice, from two different addresses, and then I got in touch through another one and got no reply either. Regards, Giuseppe ----- Original Message ----- From: "ds429" To: Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 11:22 AM Subject: [pbs] My email messages Dear All, My email messages are apparently not all being received by some of you. I am working on this problem, but I have received an order from everyone who has written again out of concern. Best wishes, Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@comcast.net Sat, 27 Jul 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1211744895.1672226.1374927544978.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: My email messages Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 12:19:04 +0000 (UTC) You're right. The trouble has been on my end. New computer arrives on Monday. I did find one of your messages and will send what I can, though there were nearly fifty orders ahead of yours. Sorry for the confusion, Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Krinon" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 3:21:08 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages Hello Dell, It seems it is a problem with your server, as you said you haven't received my order I sent twice, from two different addresses, and then I got in touch through another one and got no reply either. Regards, Giuseppe ----- Original Message ----- From: "ds429" To: Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 11:22 AM Subject: [pbs] My email messages Dear All, My email messages are apparently not all being received by some of you. I am working on this problem, but I have received an order from everyone who has written again out of concern. Best wishes, Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <66B89D7510D34348845897EB9234D8254F7E21979F@MBX12.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: My email messages Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 13:05:05 +0000 Hi Dell, To which e-mail address should we respond? Sometimes I see your comcast e-mail other times I see your frontier e-mail. Please let me know. Warm Regards, Fred -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of ds429@comcast.net Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:19 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages You're right. The trouble has been on my end. New computer arrives on Monday. I did find one of your messages and will send what I can, though there were nearly fifty orders ahead of yours. Sorry for the confusion, Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Krinon" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 3:21:08 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages Hello Dell, It seems it is a problem with your server, as you said you haven't received my order I sent twice, from two different addresses, and then I got in touch through another one and got no reply either. Regards, Giuseppe ----- Original Message ----- From: "ds429" To: Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 11:22 AM Subject: [pbs] My email messages Dear All, My email messages are apparently not all being received by some of you. I am working on this problem, but I have received an order from everyone who has written again out of concern. Best wishes, Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From rherold@yahoo.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <51F3C870.8030607@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 09:17:36 -0400 Matt, Thanks for the reminder--I really need to repot some of my cyclamen, too. I have more or less abandoned growing coum and hederifolium in the greenhouse, however. After an initial period of doubt and caution, I've found that they grow much better in the ground outdoors. They never seem to be all that happy where I plant them, but the ants seem to distribute the seeds to perfect locations. No worries about hardiness, either. We're pretty much in the same zone, and you should have the same experience. Yeah, you don't get to enjoy them in the greenhouse, but that's a small sacrifice to pay for seeing them look so much better in their element. Hint: find a north facing location. All of my purparescens and cilicium are outdoors, too, with similar results. That said, rohlfsianum are my favorite cyclamen, and I think I grow them reasonably well. My oldest plants are just over twenty years old, with tubers that weigh around five pounds without soil. In general, I don't repot until they break their pots, which seems to happen with alarming regularity. Do not overpot--an inch between the tuber and pot is more than enough! I would recommend a soil mix with more sand and grit than might be used for hederifolium and coum. I keep terrible records with regards to soil mixes, but if I was repotting rohlfsianum I'd use one part peat/coir mix (Metro 380 or equivalent) to one part perlite, one part grit/pumice, one part coarse sand. Please, please do not plant the tubers too shallow! Rohlfsianums root on the top surface of the tuber (as do hederifolium). It really pains me when I see photos of exposed tubers--this is not how they want to grow. Put at least an inch of soil on top, preferably two, followed by a top dressing of another inch of coarse gravel (1/4" to 3/8"). The other thing about rohlfsianum is that they have huge leaves (I've seen them 8" across) that transpire a LOT of moisture in our dry winters. They dry out quite rapidly, so for the larger ones I use big plastic pots placed in deep saucers. The best way to water is to fill the saucers to the brim in addition to giving to top watering. There is no such thing as overwatering rohlfsianums in the winter! Even a plunge bed may not be able to keep up. My second favorite greenhouse cyclamen was received as africanum, but is most probably x hildebrandii, a hybrid with hederifolium. To me it is far superior to either parent. It starts blooming in late August, and continues non stop through December. At peak, it has at least 200 flowers open at a time. The leaves and flowers go straight up from the tuber, and don't have that annoying habit of going out to the edge of the pot before deciding to emerge. This has a tuber that is pushing ten pounds. Potting is similar to rohlfsianum. Most of the tender cyclamen spend the summer under the bench in the greenhouse with no intentional watering, and go outdoors at the beginning of September, earlier if they show growth. Off to the potting bench now... --Roy NW of Boston Zone 6-ish, was 5, headed for 7 Cool greenhouse, 38F From ds429@comcast.net Sat, 27 Jul 2013 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <985851928.1676823.1374939444456.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> From: ds429@comcast.net Subject: My email messages Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 15:37:24 +0000 (UTC) The comcast address will become defunct soon, so you should use the frontier address. These recent  problems have been caused by my Outlook's becoming deranged and trying to make me so too. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fred Biasella" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 9:05:05 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages Hi Dell, To which e-mail address should we respond? Sometimes I see your comcast e-mail other times I see your frontier e-mail. Please let me know. Warm Regards, Fred -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of ds429@comcast.net Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 8:19 AM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages You're right. The trouble has been on my end. New computer arrives on Monday. I did find one of your messages and will send what I can, though there were nearly fifty orders ahead of yours. Sorry for the confusion, Dell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Krinon" To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 3:21:08 AM Subject: Re: [pbs] My email messages Hello Dell, It seems it is a problem with your server, as you said you haven't received my order I sent twice, from two different addresses, and then I got in touch through another one and got no reply either. Regards, Giuseppe ----- Original Message ----- From: "ds429" To: Sent: Friday, July 26, 2013 11:22 AM Subject: [pbs] My email messages Dear All, My email messages are apparently not all being received by some of you. I am working on this problem, but I have received an order from everyone who has written again out of concern. Best wishes, Dell _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <685A0A8D-D99D-4962-99DB-51CBBF16196E@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: Crinum seed?? Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 11:03:06 -0500 Dear Dell, Need any more Crinum bulbispermum seed? Let me know. Best Jim From annamwal@interia.pl Sat, 27 Jul 2013 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: What's blooming now on my windowsill? Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 21:48:43 +0200 Hi, On my windowsill a Hymenocallis sp. (H. caribaea?) starts to bloom for the second time this summer. In the other room Eucharis grandiflora starts to flower some 10 ft of the window: http://www.mwalnik.wodip.opole.pl/botanika/blooming/blooming_2013.html Marek Walnik, Glucholazy, Poland From petersirises@gmail.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: What's blooming now on my windowsill? Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 22:17:30 +0100 They are beautiful, I envy them! Peter (UK) On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 8:48 PM, A. M. Walnik wrote: > Hi, > On my windowsill a Hymenocallis sp. (H. caribaea?) > From clayton3120@cablespeed.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: clayton3120 clayton3120 Subject: What's blooming now on my windowsill? Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 18:20:27 -0700 Oh! How beautiful. Thanks for posting! Rick K On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 2:17 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > They are beautiful, I envy them! > Peter (UK) > > > On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 8:48 PM, A. M. Walnik wrote: > > > Hi, > > On my windowsill a Hymenocallis sp. (H. caribaea?) > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From othonna@gmail.com Sat, 27 Jul 2013 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Hannon Subject: What's blooming now on my windowsill? Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2013 20:19:58 -0700 Very nice, thank you! Shows what can be done in the home, even with some of the larger bulbs. Dylan * * From gardenbetter@gmail.com Sun, 28 Jul 2013 00:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Shmuel Silinsky Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 02:25:28 -0400 Fantastico! Thanks Fabio. What is the lowest magnification one could see the pollen tube? Shmuel Jerusalem, Israel On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 9:05 PM, Fabio Francisco Suarez wrote: > Greetings to all > Jim. > A liquid culture medium for pollen would be: > To one liter of water. > Calcium nitrate Ca (NO3) 2 300 milligrams (mgr) > Magnesium nitrate Mg(NO3) 2 250 mgr > Potassium nitrate KNO3 50 mgr > Sugar > 30 grams > > > Take a small amount, add the pollen, at 6 hours look with a microscope, > viable pollen there will be formed a polinic tube > regards > Fabio F > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From gastil.buhl@gmail.com Sun, 28 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <0EAE902F-9B73-4C94-9FBD-0606FFFB8CC0@gmail.com> From: "M. Gastil-Buhl" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 11:14:00 -0700 I returned home from travels yesterday and discovered some A. belladonna bloom spikes had emerged while I was away. None have opened yet. This seems early so I wanted to give a heads-up to go look. Nhu's survey asks what date they emerge as well as when they bloom. I wonder if the small thundershower the week before which dropped 0.06 inches rain might have been the trigger. - Gastil Coastal Santa Barbara, California The survey form is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?userstoinvite=bobrutem%40gmail.com&formkey=dE55Rmtrem5EaHRtZW9YQmk4aUZEbEE6MA #gid=0 From xerics@cox.net Sun, 28 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <002a01ce8bbf$34d0b2f0$9e7218d0$@net> From: "richard" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 11:20:57 -0700 I have a good number of spikes up here in Vista, CA. -----Original Message----- From: pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of M. Gastil-Buhl Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2013 11:14 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 I returned home from travels yesterday and discovered some A. belladonna bloom spikes had emerged while I was away. None have opened yet. This seems early so I wanted to give a heads-up to go look. Nhu's survey asks what date they emerge as well as when they bloom. I wonder if the small thundershower the week before which dropped 0.06 inches rain might have been the trigger. - Gastil Coastal Santa Barbara, California The survey form is here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?userstoinvite=bobrutem%40gmail. com&formkey=dE55Rmtrem5EaHRtZW9YQmk4aUZEbEE6MA #gid=0 From msittner@mcn.org Sun, 28 Jul 2013 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <20130728185501.30297E9735@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 11:54:47 -0700 Yesterday I saw a spike starting in my garden. The ones in my garden always bloom much later than the ones closer to the ocean a couple of miles away that have been appearing here and there already. This one with a shoot usually blooms in September. Since except for almost a week of warmer than usual temperatures, it has been a colder than usual summer with many days of only a couple of hours of sunshine, this throws out the warmer temperatures theory. I wonder if it is the very late significant couple of days of summer rainfall we had late June after a dry spring. My garden is I suspect much too shadier for successful blooming. It will be interesting to see if this year is different. Mary Sue From fasuamo@hotmail.com Sun, 28 Jul 2013 17:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Fabio Francisco Suarez Subject: Pollen Germination Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2013 18:43:26 -0500 Shmuel : A liquid culture medium for pollen would be: > To one liter of water. > Calcium nitrate Ca (NO3)2 ---------------- 300 milligrams (mgr) > Magnesium nitrate Mg(NO3)2 --------------250 mgr > Potassium nitrate KNO3 -----------------------50 mgr > Sugar -----------------------------------------------30 grams > > > > Take a small amount, add the pollen, at 6 hours look with a microscope, > viable pollen there will be formed a polinic tube, you can see with magnification 100x > regards > Fabio F From michaelcmace@gmail.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <003c01ce8c7c$c4a5da00$4df18e00$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 09:57:52 -0700 Gastil wrote: > I wonder if the small thundershower the week before which dropped 0.06 inches rain might have been the trigger. The Amaryllis here are also starting to bloom, several weeks early. In our area this summer we had two several-day waves of hot humid weather, with a bit of very light rainfall, that could have been the trigger. I joked at one point that I felt like I was living in Washington, DC again. We've also had thunderstorms in other summers that didn't produce early blooms. In some cases they dropped a lot more rain, with no impact on bloom time. But usually they blew through very quickly, with no extended change in overall temperatures. The difference this time was that we had several days of unusually muggy weather, with heat that persisted through the night. I wonder if maybe it's the humidity and warm overnight temps that made the difference, rather than the actual rainfall. Nhu, I'm very glad you're doing this project. The results should be fascinating. Mike San Jose, CA From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 29 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375119056.32545.YahooMailNeo@web84502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 10:30:56 -0700 (PDT) We have thunderstorms and overnight (in fact, 24/7) humidity in abundance here in Maryland just outside Washington D.C., and so far the clump of Amaryllis belladonna here has not been moved to bloom in the eight years it has been growing here. This is planted in the ground, with bulbs mostly buried but with the necks exposed. It's in a well protected cold frame. It yearly produces a thick tuft of foliage, and the foliage is never damaged during the winter. Yet it has never bloomed. I drenched it with smoke water last year, and hope blooms eternal... Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Crocosmias, eucomises, kniphofias and the erstwhile galtonias are all blooming - gloriosas to follow shortly.   From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 29 Jul 2013 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375120204.12735.YahooMailNeo@web84503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: crocosmias and montbretias Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 10:50:04 -0700 (PDT) Back in 2011 we had a thread going about crocosmias. I learned there about Far Reaches Farm and their crocosmia selection and obtained some much desired cultivars from them. These came as potted clumps and performed well the first year. I also ordered the Van Noort hybrids from The Lily Garden. These came as dry corms (big ones!) which all grew the first year but did not set the world on fire.  All of these were obtained in the spring of 2012. With one exception, this year they all performed very well indeed. The taller Van Noort hybrids and 'Lucifer' bloomed freely at the four and five foot level.  The lower growing old montbretia hybrids are blooming freely now, and some of these are putting on a great show. 'Lady Hamilton' is really impressively floriferous in its second year, as is 'Prometheus'. 'Prometheus' is a lot like 'Emily McKenzie' except the Emily has larger flowers.  I took a chance on an old hybrid I had never heard of, 'Castle Ward Late'. What attracted me to this one is that it was raised by Max Leichtlin. This has turned out to be a great choice: the inflorescence is tall so that the flowers form a diffuse red-orange cloud over the foliage.  'His Majesty' did well last year and bloomed freely, but apparently every last bit disappeared during the winter. It was a very mild winter which allowed the survival of cannas, dahlias, zantadeschias and gingers in an open field. So I'm disinclined to blame cold. But otherwise, what could have happened. If rodents are to blame, why did they eat only that one variety? Anyone else growing these plants? Jim McKennehy Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51F6BB95.9000104@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 06:59:33 +1200 Jim, when I grew Amarillis belladonna, they only started blooming for me after I moved them to a hot, sunny, dry spot, and that is in the equivalent of Zone 10. Ina On 30/07/2013 5:30 a.m., Jim McKenney wrote: > We have thunderstorms and overnight (in fact, 24/7) humidity in abundance here in Maryland just outside Washington D.C., and so far the clump of Amaryllis belladonna here has not been moved to bloom in the eight years it has been growing here. This is planted in the ground, with bulbs mostly buried but with the necks exposed. It's in a well protected cold frame. It yearly produces a thick tuft of foliage, and the foliage is never damaged during the winter. Yet it has never bloomed. I drenched it with smoke water last year, and hope blooms eternal... > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Crocosmias, eucomises, kniphofias and the erstwhile galtonias are all blooming - gloriosas to follow shortly. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: crocosmias and montbretias Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 13:30:50 -0700 Jim McKenney wrote, >'His Majesty' did well last year and bloomed freely, but apparently >every last bit disappeared during the winter. It was a very mild >winter which allowed the survival of cannas, dahlias, zantadeschias >and gingers in an open field. So I'm disinclined to blame cold. But >otherwise, what could have happened. If rodents are to blame, why >did they eat only that one variety? > >Anyone else growing these plants? I got a good selection from Far Reaches Farm, including 'His Majesty', which I also lost last winter although it was very mild for our area. All the other cultivars survived, along with nearby dahlias and fancy chrysanthemums. I expect HM is one of the less cold-hardy ones. In my former garden I couldn't grow any of them except 'Lucifer'. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 13:34:00 -0700 On Amaryllis belladonna flowering, I've noticed that here in the Portland area it flowers only when growing up against warm walls or house foundations. I just moved mine to a west-facing wall of my brick house, under the eaves to protect them from too much winter wet. I put the Veltheimia bracteata there too -- grow or freeze, I don't care, but I'm tired of lugging its pot in and out. Alstroemeria isabellanae is in bud in that area, and some Iris unguicularis is scheduled to be moved there in fall. In central California, however, Amaryllis can flower in part shade. I remember them from my grandparents' farm near Lodi (Sacramento River delta), flowering on a partly shaded berm with assorted perennials; Grandmother called them "naked ladies," and giggled. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: David Pilling Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 21:46:20 +0100 Hi, Here Amaryllis belladonna still have their leaves. (by the side of the Irish sea). -- David Pilling email: david@pilling.demon.co.uk web: http://www.davidpilling.net From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <51F6D4F0.5000803@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 08:47:44 +1200 Long ago, when I was driving in the countryside with the children, I called out "Oh, look at those naked ladies!"13 year old son asked "Where? Where?" His disappointment was great... Ina On 30/07/2013 8:34 a.m., Jane McGary wrote: > Grandmother called them "naked ladies," and giggled -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From jimlykos@bigpond.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51F70B42.7050108@bigpond.com> From: Jim Lykos Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 10:39:30 +1000 Hi, One factor that may not be covered by your Amaryllis blooming project is the distinction between bulbs of Amaryllis belladonna species, Amarygia and hybrid swarms of Amarygia x Amaryllis belladonna. Here in the lower Blue Mountains outside of Sydney over a three month period of flowering the species form flowers early and usually has a lower flower count , and this is usually followed by Amarygia back-crosses and in the second to third month the Multiflowered (25 - 30) forms of Amarygia. The best flowering I have seen of the species form of Amaryllis belladonna occurred a couple of years ago along a dry creek flood plain in grain/sheep country. The heavy rain storm occurred after 10 years of drought, heavy rain storms near the inland town of Henty and induced a mass flowering - and these flowering clumps segregated into bulb clusters with flower counts of 7, 12 or 15 flowers. Jim Lykos Blue Mountains Australia On 30/07/2013 3:30 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > We have thunderstorms and overnight (in fact, 24/7) humidity in abundance here in Maryland just outside Washington D.C., and so far the clump of Amaryllis belladonna here has not been moved to bloom in the eight years it has been growing here. This is planted in the ground, with bulbs mostly buried but with the necks exposed. It's in a well protected cold frame. It yearly produces a thick tuft of foliage, and the foliage is never damaged during the winter. Yet it has never bloomed. I drenched it with smoke water last year, and hope blooms eternal... > > Jim McKenney > Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where Crocosmias, eucomises, kniphofias and the erstwhile galtonias are all blooming - gloriosas to follow shortly. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 29 Jul 2013 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Cleaning Arum seeds Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 18:14:02 -0700 Since I got some of my more unusual Arum species out of their pots and into raised beds, they have grown very vigorously and most of them are going to be lifted now and moved into the garden. One sign of their health has been the production of large quantities of seed. I'd like to send some to exchanges. What is the best way to clean a quantity of this seed? I know one shouldn't handle it without gloves. Thanks, Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From rherold@yahoo.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <51F721F1.1020506@yahoo.com> From: Roy Herold Subject: Cleaning Arum seeds Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:16:17 -0400 Jane, I assume that arum seeds are close enough to arisaemas to use the same method. Here's what I do. Find your least favorite kitchen blender. Fill the jar half way with water, add seeds. Pulse it a few times until the seed skins are floating on the surface, and the seeds sink to the bottom. Pour the contents through a strainer, and spread the solid remains on a paper towel. Let this dry out overnight. Scuff it up a bit, and the clean seeds will roll right off. Using this technique, I have never worried about using gloves, with no irritation at all to my hands. Believe me, I have gone through the red, swollen hands routine more than once, most memorably in a hotel in Yunnan when I didn't know any better. This technique works because the seeds are light enough and their coats are hard enough so they bounce off of the blender blades. I've never seen so much as a nick in the seeds after processing. Don't worry about contaminating your blender, either. Anything bad will rinse off, no scrubbing required. --Roy NW of Boston Lots of wild Arisaema triphyllum and Arisaema stewardsonii seeds ripening out in our woods. From andrew@avonia.com Tue, 30 Jul 2013 01:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "andrew" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 21:01:04 -0700 Hi Nhu! Two years ago when you began the project I sent you all my data for that year on the bloom times of A. belladonna, location shade/sun, water etc. Your present forms seem different. Do you have data I submitted? Andrew SanDiego From andrew@avonia.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <9139567CDF8F467C839CD57689D588CA@Desktop> From: "andrew" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:16:25 -0700 Hi Nhu! Two years ago when you began the project I sent you all my data for that year on the bloom times of A. belladonna, location shade/sun, water etc. Your present forms seem different. Do you still have data I submitted? Andrew SanDiego From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:52:25 -0700 Hi Andrew, Yes, I have all the data still. Please add more as well because data from the same person over many years means more than data from different places in one year. Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far! Hopefully by the winter I will have some time to do some analyses and then send a report. This year the plant in Berkeley are behaving strangely. They usually bloom earlier at lower altitude near the ocean and then as the season progresses, the blooming move uphill. This year I'm noticing blooms already uphill and the ones in the flat area are just beginning. Perhaps some strange climatic factor is involved and everything is pure speculation at this point. Some hard data may tell us more. Best, Nhu On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 10:16 PM, andrew wrote: > Two years ago when you began the project I sent you all my data for that > year on the bloom times of A. belladonna, location shade/sun, water etc. > Your present forms seem different. Do you still have data I submitted? > From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 29 Jul 2013 23:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Dietes robinsoniana source Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2013 22:59:58 -0700 Hi everyone, If you know of sources for Dietes robinsoniana, please contact Marcelle. See below. Thanks, Nhu On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 3:26 AM, marcelle clelland < marcelle.clelland48@yahoo.com.au> wrote: > Dear Sir/Madam, My family lived for 12 years on Lord Howe Island and I > would dearly love to have the wedding lily in my garden. Is it possible to > get seeds or plants anywhere? sincerely marcelle clelland > From anbope1970@yahoo.dk Tue, 30 Jul 2013 01:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1375169796.39205.YahooMailNeo@web171303.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Anders Bo Petersen Subject: Dietes robinsoniana source Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 08:36:36 +0100 (BST) I've just checked that www.rareplants.de got seeds for sale. Regards   Anders Bo Petersen Copenhagen ________________________________ Fra: Nhu Nguyen Til: marcelle clelland ; Pacific Bulb Society Sendt: 7:59 tirsdag den 30. juli 2013 Emne: [pbs] Dietes robinsoniana source Hi everyone, If you know of sources for Dietes robinsoniana, please contact Marcelle. See below. Thanks, Nhu On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 3:26 AM, marcelle clelland < marcelle.clelland48@yahoo.com.au> wrote: > Dear Sir/Madam, My family lived for 12 years on Lord Howe Island and I > would dearly love to have the wedding lily in my garden. Is it possible to > get seeds or plants anywhere? sincerely marcelle clelland > From dkramb@badbear.com Tue, 30 Jul 2013 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Dennis Kramb Subject: Dietes robinsoniana source Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:36:36 -0400 I love this flower! But I'm surprised that this person from Australia can't find it in Australia. Half of the Google results for this plant are Australian websites (including nurseries). I have the impression it's a common plant in the trade there. I sure found plenty of nurseries offering it for sale when I did a quick search. On rare occasion SIGNA has offered seed of this species. Several years ago I noticed seed was available from SIGNA's "old seed" discounted section. I bought all of them, but sadly they were no longer viable. I didn't get any germination. I watch for it every time the SIGNA list comes out, but it hasn't appeared in at least 5 years now. Dennis in Cincinnati From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Tue, 30 Jul 2013 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8A442672-667C-4175-ADF1-6DADF59A751C@kc.rr.com> From: James Waddick Subject: crocosmias and montbretias Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:22:02 -0500 Dear Jim, Jane and all, Crocosmias have been a learning process here. Years ago we bought bare corms of 'Lucifer', by far the most common Croc around and they failed in various spots in the garden and in various treatments. Then one year we bought a gallon pot full of growing bulbs and tried again. They flourished and bloom regularly in July. Humming birds love them. It then dawned on us that they might need to be actively growing plants to succeed here. Someone on PBS (Jane?) suggested that they needed to have the typical 'string' of growing corms. They tend to keep last year's corm although they tend not to resprout, but form a chain of older and older corms useful for food storage (perhaps). We bought a couple more potted actively growing Crocs and had similar success in various spots in the garden. We then found another way to get better garden success. We bought dry corms in fall as they are almost always available in variety. We'd plant these in gallon or larger parts and store in a cool garage with low light. Over winter they'd sprout and grow and be ready to plant out by spring. These have a MUCH better survival rate. Bottom line is that we have around 40 named clones of Crocs from a variety of sources including Far Reaches. Hardiness is highly variable, but much of this depends on getting well established before winter. Unfortunately some of our biggest 'trials' have coincided with our worst summer weather. In 2012 we planted about 20 potted growing Crocs in spring, then had a 10 month drought. Most of the newly planted Crocs went 'dormant (we hoped they weren't dead). Established plants took the heat and dry and bloomed OK. This year we planted another round of pre-growing cvs. Last years plants mostly came up, but at the first hint of dry weather they went dormant again very early. This year's new additions mostly are still alive and growing and some are blooming. It seems difficult for us to establish Crocs here in Zone 5/6, but once established they seem hardy enough and can take both our summer extremes and our recent milder winters (Still down to single digits F). We no longer direct plant dry single corms in the garden. These rarely succeed. We have not tried 'Her Majesty' so can't comment on that one. Now the good news - the cvs that do well do great and bloom and multiply. We love the range of colors from pale yellow through all shades of orange (Tangerine, screaming orange, pastel shades, etc) to a range of reds. There is also a wide size difference. Our current champion is 'R. W. Wallace'. This one has clear golden orange flowers that open flat and wide and are around 3 in across (although I have not taken out the ruler). I have also been impressed with 'Zeal Giant' and another large flowered yellow whose name escapes me right now. Plant size can vary quite a bit from under 2 feet to 4 feet plus. They take some work to get them established in my climate, but we have few summer blooming plants so they make a much needed addition when the garden is slow. Although Crocs are often sold as dry corms, starting them early in pots and planting 'established' plants gives a much better start in the garden. It is well worth the extra work and efforts. Best wishes. Jim W. ps Isn't the generic name Montbretia dead and all of the previous named are now Crocs? From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 30 Jul 2013 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1375198528.63261.YahooMailNeo@web84504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: crocosmias and montbretias Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 08:35:28 -0700 (PDT) Jim Waddick asked "ps Isn't the generic name Montbretia dead and all of the previous named are now Crocs? " Jim, were you asking this because of the subject line in my original post (crocosmias and montbretias)? Yes, the generic name Montbretia is a synonym of the currently used generic name Crocosmia.  Note that the words "crocosmias" and "montbretias" are not botanical names. They are vernacular names derived from botanical names: thus the lack of capital initial letters, the lack of italics (in formats which support that) and the plurals formed in English style with the "s" ending.  To my way of thinking, the vernacular word "crocosmias" is appropriate for all of these plants since they are all now included in the botanical genus Crocosmia. It was really the introduction of 'Lucifer' which brought this genus name to the general gardening public; before 'Lucifer' the name Crocosmia was known mostly in the name of Crocosmia masoniorum (although back then it was apt to be spelled masonorum) , a species which for some reason never seems to have caught on with American gardeners.  The hybrids which were raised a century ago, when the botanical name Montbretia was current, were widely called "montbretias" in everyday speech. Some of us still use the name "montbretias" for these early hybrids because they are so distinct from Crocosmia masoniorum and the mid-century hybrids such as 'Lucifer'. The nothotaxon Crocosmia × crocosmiiflora is available for these early hybrids, although not only is that a much bigger mouthful than "montbretias" but it also preserves the now discredited nineteenth century style of pigeonhole taxonomy based on morphology rather than gene pool.     Also,  I note that the RHS now gives "giant montbretia" as the preferred common name for C. masoniorum.  I think there is a widespread tendency to try to make the botanical names and the common names coordinate: thus, the members of the genus Lilium are called lilies in vernacular English. But sometimes vernacular names preserve or attempt to make distinctions which the botanical names ignore, and in those cases the correspondence between common names and botanical names is inexact. The common English word "thistle" is an example: it does not correspond to any botanical taxon in particular, and attempts to make it do so do violence to the vernacular language.  To my way of thinking, the early twentieth century hybrids with wide, flattish,  down- or out-facing flowers will always be "montbretias", a group horticulturally distinct from the crocosmias of the 'Lucifer' sort.   Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 30 Jul 2013 14:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1375217430.12487.YahooMailNeo@web84504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: camera talk, largely OT until you view the links Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 13:50:30 -0700 (PDT) When I was in my late teens (over fifty years ago)the time came when I finally put away the old family Kodak Brownie and got my first really good camera, a Kodak Retina Reflex. Over the succeeding decades my cameras were always single lens reflex cameras. In 2000 the company I then worked for sent me to Bangalore India for a month. I had been toying with the idea of getting a digital camera, but it was the imminence of the trip which forced my card. Single lens reflex digital cameras probably existed at that time, but they were well out of my price range: I settled for an expensive (about $1000) Kodak point and shoot model. I purchased it the day before I left for India, and opened the box on the flight over. It served as a good introduction to digital photography (wonderful color by the way - and I still have one and use it on rare occasions). I was probably the first person in that office to take a digital camera to India - the photos I sent back in emails amazed everyone.  But I was never happy in the point and shoot world, and for years I kept telling myself that when a single lens reflex digital camera came onto the market under $1000 I would move in that direction. I wasted no time when the Canon Digital Rebel became available. That has been my camera for the last, I forget, maybe seven or eight years. Only last week I heard a radio discussion of the emerging dominance of single lens reflex cameras in the market.  But something has happened to disturb my comfort level with my Rebel. My partner Wayne went out and bought a Canon PowerShot SX280 HS earlier this summer. It's a point and shoot camera and cost about $300. It does amazing things - many of which probably remain to be discovered as he plays with it more. In addition to still photos it will do brief videos (with sound - he has done dogday cicadas and katydids so far). When I look at the images he gets, I just can't believe that they come from a point and shoot camera. I can't wait to get one for myself.  I've posted lots of his images on my blog; you can take a look here for yourself and I'll bet you'll agree with me that this is not the old world of point and shoot. Look here: there are three separate posts, be sure to see all of them (especially the moon in the last group).  http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2013/07/birds-bugs-and-flowers-shot-from-canon.html http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2013/07/more-shot-from-canon.html http://mcwort.blogspot.com/2013/07/and-even-more-shot-from-canon.html After I made the first post Wayne asked my how much Canon was paying me: full disclosure, not a cent.   Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Tue, 30 Jul 2013 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1375236788.42598.YahooMailNeo@web84501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: camera talk, largely OT until you view the links Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2013 19:13:08 -0700 (PDT) In my glowing praise for Wayne's new camera, I neglected to point out one significant shortcoming: all of that amazing capability drains the battery pretty quickly. So if you get one, plan to keep a second battery handy so you'll have power during the frequent recharging.  Jim McKenney From klamathkelley@gmail.com Wed, 31 Jul 2013 05:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karen Kelley Subject: camera talk, largely OT until you view the links Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 04:31:22 -0700 The pictures are so great! On Jul 30, 2013 7:13 PM, "Jim McKenney" wrote: > > > In my glowing praise for Wayne's new camera, I neglected to point out one > significant shortcoming: all of that amazing capability drains the battery > pretty quickly. So if you get one, plan to keep a second battery handy so > you'll have power during the frequent recharging. > > Jim McKenney > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Wed, 31 Jul 2013 07:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1375276711.57440.YahooMailNeo@web84505.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Ian Young's talk in the greater Washington, D.C. area this fall Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 06:18:31 -0700 (PDT) Tuesday evening, October 22nd, 7pm NARGS Eastern Speaker, J Ian Young, Scottish plantsman and artist "Inspired to Rock:"  The gardens and places that inspired Ian to grow rock garden plants and how he has interpreted them in his garden.   McLean Community Center, 1234 Ingleside Ave, McLean, VA 2210 (703) 790-0123 I you would like more information about this, please contact Jim McKenney privately. From annamwal@interia.pl Wed, 31 Jul 2013 08:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: "A. M. Walnik" Subject: Amaryllis belladonna blooming project - year 3 Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 16:20:10 +0200 Hi, I have a question - has anyone some experience in growing A. belladonna in Central Europe? I live in something like zone 5 to 6 and at every occasion when I can see bulbs of Amaryllis on sale, I do not decide to buy it - I am afraid not to succeed with it. Marek W., Poland From Robin@hansennursery.com Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <8F528B6385B94B6AB1283D362A892401@homed4aec9b2d8> From: "Robin Hansen" Subject: Cyclamen Potting Medium Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 18:50:05 -0700 Clayton brings up a very important point, and one that has to come from experience. We all have our own method of watering (or not watering) that has to work with our particular soil recipes. The advantage to sand beds in a shaded glass house is that even if you forget to water occasionally, the roots can go deep, thereby staying cool and a little damp which is all they need when dormant. In pots grown for production, things can be a lot dicier. I once briefly worked for a nursery that produced an acre or two of tuberous begonias in basically peat mix in fiber pots for garden centers. It was all about the watering and boy, did I learn a lot! I'm a bit careless about fertilizing myself. Bonemeal is all I use. I've tried slow-release fertilizers at 1/4 strength, but bonemeal is much easier as there's no way to overdo the dose. Robin Hansen Nursery, Southwest Oregon, USA robin@hansennursery.com From leo@possi.org Wed, 31 Jul 2013 19:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1e816eebc2847cc1de25cb6920259636.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: camera talk, largely OT until you view the links Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2013 18:56:17 -0700 (PDT) While SLR digital cameras with interchangeable lenses remain the standard for macro and other very-high-quality photography, few people have to time, training or ability to take photos this way. If one goes on a plant trip with a dozen other people the stops typically last just long enough to set up the tripod, then people are screaming for you to return to the vehicle and leave (unless there is a cat with kittens near the stop.) In the field, in a rush and in varying light conditions, phone cameras nowadays with their deep depths of field almost always take better photos than most complex SLRs. Many very inexpensive digital cameras and even smartphones take images nearly as good as expensive digital SLRs for a lot less money and trouble. And most digital devices - cameras or smartphones - have been taking video for many years. Plus they have the ability to forward the images electronically to the Internet rather than dealing with removable storage disks, which are cumbersome in the field no matter how small. Given the relatively low quality most people accept for television and Internet images there is not much point putting higher-detail images on most Web sites; so, most people aren't interested in paying the extra money for something they won't use. And, as always, the most important link in the image-capture process remains lens quality. More expensive digital SLRs accept interchangeable lenses, and can use old ones from film cameras as well. But there are lens attachments that allow smartphones to be used as microscopes, macro cameras and even telescopes! A Hasselblad in the living room is any more only a good way to impress dates, if they know what is a Hasselblad, which is unlikely. There is an article in the current Wall Street Journal online about how digital camera companies are trying to avoid extinction in the face of smartphones with double-digit megapixel cameras. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA