While I agree with Jane and Dylan that regional forms of plants may be more or less suited to cultivation in other areas, many bulbs and other plants may be grown by 'holding them back' in order to get them through a harsh period. In much of Britain Wisterias , Ceanothus, Callistemnons, for example, need the hottest sunniest position available in order to ripen the wood and induce flowering. Without this, in cooler damper areas, though perhaps having milder winters, these plants can be hard to flower and the stems and buds are much more prone to frost damage. Conversly, other plants such as Magnolias, Crinodendron, Camelias, maddeni/ loderi/ thomsoni Rhododendrons may be killed or suffer bud damage from light frost because they are in nearly permanent growth due to almost constant mild damp conditions. These plants are much more cold hardy if given the darkest, coolest positions that they will tolerate, in order to hold them back in spring until danger of late frost has passed. A lot of bulbs can be held back by keeping them rather dry in Autumn. In my experience most winter growing bulbs (and corms) will survive much colder conditions if they are rooted and only moist enough to support the roots. This holds back the foliage and flowers. Bulbs in leaf are generally much less frost hardy. Therefore I reiterate my suggestion that Jim Waddickmight enjoy more success in growing Narcissus bulbocodium type daffodils out side if he can give them a fairly dry Autumn. The flowers will abort if they are too dry in spring. PH is not usually a problem. Peter (UK) On Fri, Nov 8, 2013 at 4:22 AM, Hannon <othonna@gmail.com> wrote: > This again brings up the important consideration of variation and geography > within species (and genera). > > On 7 November 2013 10:45, Jane McGary <janemcgary@earthlink.net> wrote: > > > An important thing to know about Narcissus bulbocodium is that it has > > a number of different populations, some of which are distinguished as > > subspecies or varieties. According to John Blanchard's useful book > > "Narcissus: A Guide to Wild Daffodils," these different populations > > grow in distinctly different habitats. The type, for instance > > "grow[s] in short turf, often very wet, at lower levels, but high on > > the Serra da Estrela they are in very gritty acid, almost grassless > > soil." Var. nivalis is a plant of alpine meadows where it would > > experience frost and snowmelt. Var. conspicuus of western Europe > > "prefer[s] a damp acid soil." > > I think most of them can stand plenty of water during their growing > > season as long as the soil is well drained. > > > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > > > > > > > > At 06:00 PM 11/6/2013, you wrote: > > >Peter is correct in his assessment of Narcissus bulbocodium culture. I > > >raise N. bulbocodium outside in pots, AND in the ground, but out of > > direct > > >heavy rain, which, for Seattle gardeners, is the key to may > Mediterranean > > >plants and bulbs. These bulbs are being raised in USDA zone 8b, so > > >considerably milder than zone 5-6. The soil is quite well drained. It > > >just may not be the best species for your climate unless you have a cool > > >greenhouse > > >Rick K > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ > > > > > > -- > *"Reason is itself a matter of faith. It is an act of faith to assert that > our thoughts have any relation to reality at all"*. -- G.K. Chesterton > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/ >