From saqibgm@gmail.com Sun, 30 Nov 2014 22:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: ghulamullah saqib Subject: mailing list Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2014 21:38:39 -0800 add me in your list plz gm saqib From k.preteroti@verizon.net Mon, 01 Dec 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kenneth Subject: Scilla madeirensis Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2014 21:45:49 -0500 The bottom flower buds have just begun to open. Very happy! Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6b From rdevries@comcast.net Tue, 02 Dec 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Haemanthus id help needed Date: Tue, 2 Dec 2014 22:02:48 -0500 I received these three plants together as Haemanthus coccineus but they are all different. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15223397724/in/set-72157647076224123/ show all 3 together https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15658314740/in/set-72157647076224123/ this one has white hairs on the leaves with red stripes near the base. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15843671871/in/set-72157647076224123/ this one has smooth leaves with no basal red marks https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15226011353/in/set-72157647076224123/ this one has smooth leaves with red stripes near the base looking back through the list i came across an entry from 29 Oct 2012 Haemanthus dasyphyllus from the Kamiesberg - "both surfaces light green with a few red bars .... mostly covered with long soft white hairs" Further on in the description the hairs are described as "long, soft and shaggy” from page 106 of the Haemanthus revision by Dr Dee Snijman. could the first plant be Haemanthus dasyphyllus ? I do not have access to the Snijman book Can anyone help on the id of these other Haemanthus ? Thank you Rimmer SE MI USDA Zone 5 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From bulborum@gmail.com Wed, 03 Dec 2014 00:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Bulborum Botanicum Subject: Haemanthus id help needed Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 09:05:54 +0100 Hi Rimmer Maybe the best if you post them in the haemanthus group If you want I can do it for you In that case it is easier if you PM me the pictures Roland https://www.facebook.com/groups/Haemanthus/ R de Boer 2238 Route de la Maugardiere F 27260 EPAIGNES FRANCE Phone./Fax 0033-232-576-204 Email: bulborum@gmail.com Facebook Groups:https://www.facebook.com/groups/bulborum/ Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Bulborum/452518118130496 2014-12-03 4:02 GMT+01:00 Rimmer deVries : > I received these three plants together as Haemanthus coccineus but they > are all different. > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15223397724/in/set-72157647076224123/ > < > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15223397724/in/set-72157647076224123/> > show all 3 together > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15658314740/in/set-72157647076224123/ > < > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15658314740/in/set-72157647076224123/> > this one has white hairs on the leaves with red stripes near the base. > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15843671871/in/set-72157647076224123/ > < > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15843671871/in/set-72157647076224123/> > this one has smooth leaves with no basal red marks > > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15226011353/in/set-72157647076224123/ > < > https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/15226011353/in/set-72157647076224123/> > this one has smooth leaves with red stripes near the base > > looking back through the list i came across an entry from 29 Oct 2012 > Haemanthus dasyphyllus from the Kamiesberg - "both surfaces light green > with a few red bars .... mostly covered with long soft white hairs" Further > on in the description the hairs are described as "long, soft and shaggy” > from page 106 of the Haemanthus revision by Dr Dee Snijman. > > could the first plant be Haemanthus dasyphyllus ? I do not have access to > the Snijman book > > Can anyone help on the id of these other Haemanthus ? > > Thank you > > Rimmer > SE MI > USDA Zone 5 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ahorstmann@telkomsa.net Wed, 03 Dec 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Alan Horstmann" Subject: Haemanthus Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2014 13:09:00 +0200 Hello, The Haemanthus leaves with the red barring at the base is definitely H coccineus. The other one’s ID would be a guess at this stage. Another year or two might help. Regards, Alan Horstmann _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Thu, 04 Dec 2014 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Citing text from the Wiki Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2014 10:19:52 -0700 Most citations in professional journals include the date accessed, and sufficient detail for the inquisitive reader to find the original information without too much poking around. Leo Martin Zone 9Wet Phoenix Arizona USA From clawler9@cox.net Sat, 06 Dec 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20141206015103.MVFVD.295373.imail@fed1rmwml208> From: Subject: e-mail list Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 1:51:02 -0500 Hi Please remove me from the list. Thanks Jeff Biletnikoff From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 06 Dec 2014 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <363A79C6-EB49-4ABF-A456-C8A35427CA22@gmail.com> From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) Date: Sat, 6 Dec 2014 08:17:38 -0500 Attention people who want to unsubscribe. Please don't ask the entire list to do it for you. We didn't sign you up for the list. Just click on the link at the bottom of every single PBS email, including the one you just sent, and unsubscribe yourself. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change Thank you. Now, bulb content: for the past few years, I have been growing the orange flowered Ornithogalum dubium that are widely available in the late winter (mine came from Trader Joes). I keep them dry and warm in summer and repot in late September, and they have bloomed reliabley. This year they failed to break dormancy. I just dumped them out of the pot, and the bulbs appear healthy; there's just no growth. The Wiki says that failure to grow is a common problem with this species, but I'm wondering if I should continue to water during the usual growth period even though the bulbs aren't doing anything. Would that just be asking them to rot? Nick Durham, NC Zone 7 Sent from my iPhone On Dec 6, 2014, at 1:51 AM, wrote: > Hi > Please remove me from the list. Thanks > Jeff Biletnikoff > _______________________________________________ From hpovey@talk21.com Sun, 07 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1417981367.66712.YahooMailNeo@web186104.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: hpovey@talk21.com Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 19:42:47 +0000 If they have roots but no shoots then the bulbs did not go into dormancy for long enough and after this there is nothing you can do to wake them up until the next year. Amazingly the bulbs do not rot,but just sit with no shoots and nice white roots. To ensure dormacy they require total dry and hot for at least 3 months. Hugh ________________________________ From: Nicholas Plummer To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Saturday, 6 December 2014, 13:17 Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) Attention people who want to unsubscribe.  Please don't ask the entire list to do it for you.  We didn't sign you up for the list.  Just click on the link at the bottom of every single PBS email, including the one you just sent, and unsubscribe yourself. http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change Thank you. Now, bulb content:  for the past few years, I have been growing the orange flowered Ornithogalum dubium that are widely available in the late winter (mine came from Trader Joes).  I keep them dry and warm in summer and repot in late September, and they have bloomed reliabley.  This year they failed to break dormancy.  I just dumped them out of the pot, and the bulbs appear healthy; there's just no growth.  The Wiki says that failure to grow is a common problem with this species, but I'm wondering if I should continue to water during the usual growth period even though the bulbs aren't doing anything.  Would that just be asking them to rot? Nick Durham, NC Zone 7 Sent from my iPhone On Dec 6, 2014, at 1:51 AM, wrote: > Hi > Please remove me from the list.  Thanks > Jeff Biletnikoff > _______________________________________________ From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Sun, 07 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1033410097.3910204.1417981933012.JavaMail.yahoo@jws100199.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 19:52:12 +0000 (UTC) Over the years we've had several discussions which touch on the cold tolerance of Worsleya. From those discussions and from reading elsewhere, I came to the conclusion that it would be safe to leave my Worsleya out during light overnight freezes. Earlier this year  I was given a huge Christmas cactus (a member of the Schlumbergera Buckleyi Group). It's now loaded with buds and blooms. When I moved it inside in anticipation of the first overnight freeze, a branch or two broke off. I forgot to bring those branches in, and the following morning found them, frozen hard. Keep in mind that the temperature was below freezing for only about two hours.After a while inside they defrosted and showed no cold damage. They kept their flower buds and are now developing normally.  In reading the wikipedia entry for Schlumbergera,  I found this passage which is worth quoting for those who might have doubts about the tolerance of these "tropical" plants for brief sub-freezing temperatures:"Because of their height and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal mountains produce high altitude moist forests – warm moist air is forced upwards into higher, colder locations where it condenses. Schlumbergera species grow in habitats which are generally relatively cool, shaded and of high humidity. David Hunt describes collecting specimens in conditions of cloud, drizzle and overnight temperatures down to −4 °C (25 °F)." This is in the same part of Brazil where Worsleya grows.  Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From codavis@ucdavis.edu Sun, 07 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Colin Davis Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 12:10:28 -0800 I have had similar experience with Albuca and Ornithogalum. Moving up to northern California where summers are cool (60's-70's) from the central valley where summer temperatures routinely get into the upper 90's-low 100's, I have noticed exactly what you say, that bulbs do not properly break dormancy come fall. Masses of healthy roots emerge, but no foliage nor flowers. This was never the case when they were subjected to strong heat and desiccating conditions. It seems the key may be not just complete lack of water but also HIGH temperatures. Curious to hear if others have similar experiences. Colin On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 11:42 AM, wrote: > If they have roots but no shoots then the bulbs did not go into dormancy > for long enough and after this there is nothing you can do to wake them up > until the next year. Amazingly the bulbs do not rot,but just sit with no > shoots and nice white roots. > > To ensure dormacy they require total dry and hot for at least 3 months. > > Hugh > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Nicholas Plummer > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Saturday, 6 December 2014, 13:17 > Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking > to unsubscribe) > > > Attention people who want to unsubscribe. Please don't ask the entire > list to do it for you. We didn't sign you up for the list. Just click > on the link at the bottom of every single PBS email, including the one you > just sent, and unsubscribe yourself. > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change > Thank you. > > Now, bulb content: for the past few years, I have been growing the orange > flowered Ornithogalum dubium that are widely available in the late winter > (mine came from Trader Joes). I keep them dry and warm in summer and repot > in late September, and they have bloomed reliabley. This year they failed > to break dormancy. I just dumped them out of the pot, and the bulbs appear > healthy; there's just no growth. The Wiki says that failure to grow is a > common problem with this species, but I'm wondering if I should continue to > water during the usual growth period even though the bulbs aren't doing > anything. Would that just be asking them to rot? > > Nick > > Durham, NC Zone 7 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 6, 2014, at 1:51 AM, wrote: > > > Hi > > Please remove me from the list. Thanks > > Jeff Biletnikoff > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 07 Dec 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <396331754.1487288.1417990558032.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10790.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Jonathan via pbs Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:15:58 +0000 (UTC) I have had one (acquired potted from Lowe's) for 3 years.  It is planted in a very low mound of soil that is covered with a thin layer of crushed granite (3/8").  It has flowered each of the last 2 years and foliage has been evident for about a month this year.  If it doesn't rain, the entire garden gets well-watered at least once a week, so a week doesn't go by that the bulb is not exposed to moisture.  In addition, our rainy season is summer and averages over 50" yearly.  Typical summer temps are in the 90s.  This might suggest that it is heat and not moisture that is the main factor. Jonathan LubarAlachua FL z8b (although the O. dubium is in a garden in Gainesville 9a) From: Colin Davis To: Pacific Bulb Society Sent: Sunday, December 7, 2014 3:10 PM Subject: Re: [pbs] Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) I have had similar experience with Albuca and Ornithogalum. Moving up to northern California where summers are cool (60's-70's) from the central valley where summer temperatures routinely get into the upper 90's-low 100's, I have noticed exactly what you say, that bulbs do not properly break dormancy come fall. Masses of healthy roots emerge, but no foliage nor flowers. This was never the case when they were subjected to strong heat and desiccating conditions. It seems the key may be not just complete lack of water but also HIGH temperatures. Curious to hear if others have similar experiences. Colin On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 11:42 AM, wrote: > If they have roots but no shoots then the bulbs did not go into dormancy > for long enough and after this there is nothing you can do to wake them up > until the next year. Amazingly the bulbs do not rot,but just sit with no > shoots and nice white roots. > > To ensure dormacy they require total dry and hot for at least 3 months. > > Hugh > > > > > ________________________________ >  From: Nicholas Plummer > To: Pacific Bulb Society > Sent: Saturday, 6 December 2014, 13:17 > Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking > to unsubscribe) > > > Attention people who want to unsubscribe.  Please don't ask the entire > list to do it for you.  We didn't sign you up for the list.  Just click > on the link at the bottom of every single PBS email, including the one you > just sent, and unsubscribe yourself. > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php#Change > Thank you. > > Now, bulb content:  for the past few years, I have been growing the orange > flowered Ornithogalum dubium that are widely available in the late winter > (mine came from Trader Joes).  I keep them dry and warm in summer and repot > in late September, and they have bloomed reliabley.  This year they failed > to break dormancy.  I just dumped them out of the pot, and the bulbs appear > healthy; there's just no growth.  The Wiki says that failure to grow is a > common problem with this species, but I'm wondering if I should continue to > water during the usual growth period even though the bulbs aren't doing > anything.  Would that just be asking them to rot? > > Nick > > Durham, NC Zone 7 > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 6, 2014, at 1:51 AM, wrote: > > > Hi > > Please remove me from the list.  Thanks > > Jeff Biletnikoff > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From plantsman@comcast.net Sun, 07 Dec 2014 19:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <20141208022741.4F2AC22664@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy Date: Sun, 07 Dec 2014 17:54:39 -0800 One possible solution is to store Ornithogalum dubium bulbs completely dry and unpotted in a paper bag on top of a refrigerator, but I would only do this after checking the temperature there first to see if its warm enough (above 22C, 72F) and not too warm (maybe above 30C, 86F, which I realize is much cooler than your typical day time summer day in inland California, but I'm talking about constant 24 hour day/night temperature). Heating mats would be another option. As I previously posted, http://www.jhortscib.org/Vol79/79_4/12.htm , this study suggests that the optimal Ornithogalum dubium bulb storage temperature for flowering is between 22C (72F) and 30C (86F) but it's hard to say without seeing the complete article and this study was very limited to only one, arguably short, storage duration of six weeks. Even at these temperatures, the percentage of bulbs that flowered was below 100%. Longer warm storage durations would likely increase bulb flowering percentages. At higher temperatures, 35C (95F), the number of florets per bulb decreased, so while the percentage of bulbs that flower may increase with increasing storage temperature over a given temperature range, the number of florets per inflorescence decreases. Similar results are often seen with other unrelated species requiring vernalization: over vernalization ensures 100% flowering but also results in fewer flowers per plant. The key is always to find that optimal temperature treatment that maximizes both flower number and flowering percentage. An earlier study, http://www.actahort.org/books/430/430_34.htm , generally agreed with the one above and recommends storing harvested bulbs at 25C (77F) in addition to keeping them at 17C (63F) for four weeks prior to planting for potted plant production, although it's unclear from the abstract how these particular temperatures were selected. Another source (Netherlands bulb industry?) recommends a "dormancy-breaking requirement" of seven weeks at 28°C (82F): http://www.prod.bulbsonline.org/ibc/binaries/pdf-bestanden/cultivations-of-bulbous-plants-as-pot-plants_forci.pdf Nathan From awilson@avonia.com Sun, 07 Dec 2014 22:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: "AW" Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2014 22:15:20 -0800 This is not an uncommon problem. Encountering it myself I made enquiries from one nursery source and was told that within the industry that no definitive, reliable treatement had been found. Instead, more bulbs are grown than they expect to ship. They ship only those bulbs that are seen to be ready to break dormancy. Translated into my own terms, I waited a second year. A high percentage came up, but not all. It's a matter of patience. In nature, many bulbs practice dormancy. It is a means to reduce losses in droughty years. Andrew San Diego From hpovey@talk21.com Mon, 08 Dec 2014 02:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1418031492.45116.YahooMailNeo@web186102.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: hpovey@talk21.com Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 09:38:12 +0000 Given that the global sales of Dubium bulbs exceeds 20 million in commercial use for cut flower or pots and close to 100% flowering is required as standard then it is not logical to expect them all to have been inspected before shipping. The exact protacol(not anecdotes) is well known by the major producers. This is easy when producing in greenhouses where all parametres can be ajusted and maintained, but more difficult when it is growing in the soil or garden where each year conditions vary. As the bulbs age they split with the centre dying and small bulblets can set around the edge. These may be too small to flower in the next year,but should still germinate and gow ok if the conditions are correct. Hugh ________________________________ From: AW To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: Monday, 8 December 2014, 6:15 Subject: Re: [pbs] Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy This is not an uncommon problem. Encountering it myself I made enquiries from one nursery source and was told that within the industry that no definitive, reliable treatement had been found. Instead, more bulbs are grown than they expect to ship. They ship only those bulbs that are seen to be ready to break dormancy. Translated into my own terms, I waited a second year. A high percentage came up, but not all. It's a matter of patience.  In nature, many bulbs practice dormancy. It is a means to reduce losses in droughty years. Andrew San Diego From office@westlandsranch.com Mon, 08 Dec 2014 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: Sandra Rick Subject: Removal from List Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 15:32:30 +0000 Hi Please remove me from the list. Thanks Sandy Rick _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 08 Dec 2014 08:17:08 -0800 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 10:03:28 -0600 Dear Jim McK and all, Having killed a nice small Worsleya to cold, I can add my 2 cents. First every geographical climate variant may not give equal results. I grew a seedling Worsleya for a couple of years and it was kept outdoors in full sun exposed to sun and rain 24/7. It was planted in medium size to large gravel with a small percent of hummus soil. Given low concentration fertilizer it grew slowly but in a healthy manner. Each year I kept it outside even when temps approached mid 30s to 40s including light sleet price. At the first freeze it was wintered in a frost free green house. Of course the weather forecast did not call for even a hint of frost, but it was exposed to a brief period below 32 F for a few hours one night and it was DEAD - totally. I tried to revive and resuscitate, but nothing. Considering how well (or so I thought) it was growing, I’d sure love to get another seedling, but I have yet to give another a try. Some day, wishfully spoken. So my experience is that Worsleya cannot take any subfreezing temps, but is fine above that temp. Larger plants may be better able to withstand a light surface frosting. Good luck. Jim W. > On Dec 7, 2014, at 1:52 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: > > Over the years we've had several discussions which touch on the cold tolerance of Worsleya. From those discussions and from reading elsewhere, I came to the conclusion that it would be safe to leave my Worsleya out during light overnight freezes. > > Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 > > James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 08 Dec 2014 09:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <91BDE578-36A9-4877-8D81-89754A1AB5A5@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 09:11:52 -0800 I treat Ornithogalum dubium just like all my other Cape Bulbs here in inland coastal valleys of Southern California. After everything goes dormant in late spring/early summer, I place them in an area out of the sun, but still outside and warm and completely dry throughout the summer. It seems that every autumn at least some of them come out of dormancy after the first rains (or first watering as the case may be). They multiply rather well, so I don't know if some remain in dormancy throughout the next winter. And there are always some that send up flower spikes, although they never seem to get as large as they were when purchased from Trader Joe's. Actually, they seed about a lot and so they can be like weeds, showing up in some other pot they don't belong in. In my experience, dormant Cape Bulbs have no problems with being watered/rained on throughout the winter, i.e., cool weather. It's a lot trickier making sure they don't rot if the leaves are still green when the weather gets hot in early summer. --Lee From xerantheum@gmail.com Mon, 08 Dec 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Ornithogalum failure to break dormancy (and people asking to unsubscribe) Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 09:32:01 -0800 I'm beginning to form an idea based mostly on personal experience and reports from other bulbs growers that plants grown from warm climates (Central Valley or Southern California) don't adjust well to coastal northern California, especially if they were seed- grown. These seedlings might have been selected for the warmer climates and probably retain a "memory" for dormancy based on where they germinated. Taken outside of that, they have a hard time recalling that memory. Seeds that I grew of the same species in coastal California germinated very well and the bulbs return easily from dormancy. Nhu On Sun, Dec 7, 2014 at 12:10 PM, Colin Davis wrote: > It seems the key may be not just complete lack of water but also HIGH > temperatures. > Curious to hear if others have similar experiences. > > From plantsman@comcast.net Mon, 08 Dec 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <20141208204548.51A1822A7C@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Nathan Lange Subject: Ornithogalum failure to flower Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2014 12:45:45 -0800 Since most commercially grown Ornithogalum dubium crops likely consist of genetically identical individuals, I don't think comparing their flowering to genetically heterogenous populations in situ is valid in this instance. Significantly less than 100% flowering for a commercial O. dubium crop suggests three possibilities. First, the bulbs may not have yet reached a state of physiological maturity following the last vegetative growing cycle even though the foliage has already died down (I'm not referring to bulb size here, although the bulbs do have to be large enough to flower). For example, as is frequently the case, the foliage prematurely died because the plants were not adequately cared for after the flowers senesced, or perhaps the bulbs were harvested too soon from the soil resulting in the bulbs not fully maturing. The temperature during the bulb enlargement stage of many species can also affect the physiological state of the bulbs at harvest. Second, the bulbs reached a state of maturity and became fully dormant but there might now be a dormancy breaking requirement (not necessarily warm temperatures) needed before the bulbs can perceive the floral induction stimulus (presumed to be warm temperatures). Assuming such a dormancy breaking requirement even exists for this species, without meeting this necessary dormancy breaking requirement, subsequent warm temperatures will not induce flowering. Such a dormancy breaking treatment could be something as simple as a period of relatively cooler (not vernalization) or even warmer temperatures prior to the warm floral induction period. Finally, the third possible reason for less than 100% flowering is that the warm floral induction stimulus was inadequate. The bulbs were mature and dormancy (as defined by the ability to respond to a floral stimulus) was broken but subsequent temperatures were not warm enough and/or for long enough. In the situation of growing plants in pots, not fulfilling all three of these potential requirements could easily account for less than 100% flowering. That being said, Hugh's comments are spot on. Whatever their needs for full flowering, the major wholesale growers already have this species figured out. Nathan At 10:15 PM 12/7/2014, you wrote: >In nature, many bulbs practice dormancy. It is a means to reduce losses in >droughty years. > >Andrew >San Diego From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 08 Dec 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 13:41:48 -0800 A few of years ago I was traveling to Brazil on business for a couple of weeks every other month for a year. So, now that I've visited some of the areas in the Mata Atlântica, the highland Atlantic coastal forests of Brazil (specifically São Paulo, Mogi das Cruzes, São José dos Campos, Campos do Jordão, Itatiaia National Park, Petrópolis, Teresópolis, Organ Mountains National Park), I have a better feel for what's going on there climate-wise. It's not like any climate I'm used to in the U.S. This area starts a little south of the Tropic of Capricorn and goes for hundreds of miles north along the southeast coast of Brazil with a width of a about 100-200 miles. The region between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro is smack dab in the middle of it. This area of Brazil consists of a highland plateau of around 2000-2500 feet (600-800 m) above sea level (with various higher peaks scattered all around it). It *rapidly* drops down to the coast with a sea level coastal strip that is at most about a mile (~2 km) wide between the beach and and where the plateau begins. (Except for Rio where there is a bay and the entire city is down near sea level except for the favelas (slums) that go up many of the hills and mounts that stick up all over the city and surrounding areas.) Since this region is on the east coast of a continent, it has the typical humid climate associated with that, especially during the summer. However, due to the higher elevation than what is typical of the populated areas of the eastern coasts of North America, Asia, and Australia, the temperatures never get as hot in the summertime. And it cools off more during summer nights than it does in the Northern Hemisphere. I also think that the cooler ocean temperatures at similar latitudes in the Southern Hemisphere also contribute to cooler night-time temperatures in the summer than what is experienced at similar latitudes in the Northern Hemisphere. In any case, it experiences cooler night-time temperatures during the winter than I would have thought, and cooler daytime temperatures in the summer than I ever would have imagined. It is very humid, and rains an incredible amount in the summer. But is otherwise more comfortable than I would have expected in the Tropics. Mauro Peixoto, who offers seeds of hundreds of Brazilian natives, has measured temperatures at his farm (at about 2500 ft a.s.l.) in Mogi das Cruzes for several decades. He told me that it used to drop down to 0°C once or twice every winter until about 20 years ago. Now it only gets down to +4° or +5°C on the coldest nights. The lowest temperature he has measured at his place is -4°C. Quite a few plants from much further north closer to the equator froze. But none of the mature plants from the Mata Atlântica had any problems at all. In the summer he almost never sees any temperatures above 30°C (86°F) because a fog always comes up the cliffs from the coast every afternoon just as it starts to get a bit warm. This also occurs in the Organ Mountains which are much further from the coast than Mauro is. It's pretty interesting to experience. For those of you who grow fruits, just to show you how unusual a climate it is, I saw with my own two eyes on Mauro's property, persimmon trees with fruit on them growing right next to pineapples with fruit. I think persimmons need at least 200 chilling hours each winter to produce fruits, while I thought pineapples couldn't stand any cold weather, but Mauro says they both fruit every year without any protection or assistance. Also, all the orchids in his shadehouse that are native to the forests in his area have never been hurt by even the -4° night they experienced. My mature Worsleya has never had any problems with temperatures down to 0°C, or maybe a degree colder than that. (I don't leave my seedlings outside in the winter--they're too valuable to possibly lose.) But remember, it always warms up above freezing during the day in So. Calif. even on the coldest days, and the same is true in this area of Brazil. In any case, if you want to kind of see what Worsleyas experience in their native habitat, I finally found actual weather data for the Organ Mountains National Park which is their home (after searching for it for the past 15 years). I plotted the temperature and rainfall data and have uploaded it to the wiki: --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Dec 7, 2014, at 11:52 AM, Jim McKenney wrote: > Over the years we've had several discussions which touch on the cold tolerance of Worsleya. From those discussions and from reading elsewhere, I came to the conclusion that it would be safe to leave my Worsleya out during light overnight freezes. > Earlier this year I was given a huge Christmas cactus (a member of the Schlumbergera Buckleyi Group). It's now loaded with buds and blooms. When I moved it inside in anticipation of the first overnight freeze, a branch or two broke off. I forgot to bring those branches in, and the following morning found them, frozen hard. Keep in mind that the temperature was below freezing for only about two hours.After a while inside they defrosted and showed no cold damage. They kept their flower buds and are now developing normally. > In reading the wikipedia entry for Schlumbergera, I found this passage which is worth quoting for those who might have doubts about the tolerance of these "tropical" plants for brief sub-freezing temperatures:"Because of their height and proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, the coastal mountains produce high altitude moist forests – warm moist air is forced upwards into higher, colder locations where it condenses. Schlumbergera species grow in habitats which are generally relatively cool, shaded and of high humidity. David Hunt describes collecting specimens in conditions of cloud, drizzle and overnight temperatures down to −4 °C (25 °F)." > This is in the same part of Brazil where Worsleya grows. > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 08 Dec 2014 15:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1849660322.4229192.1418077653001.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10077.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 22:27:32 +0000 (UTC) Thanks, Lee. Now I know to pack more than shorts and t-shirts if I'm ever lucky enough to visit that area during the cool season. Now for an obvious follow-up question: is there any evidence that this cool period has any effect on inducing bloom in Worsleya? Their neighbors, the Schlumbergera cactuses I mentioned,  are known to respond to a drop in temperature (under the right light conditions) by initiating flower bud formation.  Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Mon, 08 Dec 2014 17:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <4177CD5D-4924-413D-808F-41E94E3DCD12@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 17:00:25 -0800 I forgot to mention that even though Worsleya grow on bare granite mountain peaks at probably around 1600-2000m a.s.l. (5200-6500 ft), they are completely exposed to the sun all day long (when it's not raining or foggy). So I imagine that because the granite is dark colored, their roots probably experience much higher temperatures than the air temperature. I know the Australians who grow this well say that they can leave their potted Worsleya in full sun even on the hottest days and the plants seem to love it. On the other side of the coin, this also means that on the coldest winter nights, if there are no clouds, they will probably experience some pretty good radiation cooling for a few hours. (But not their roots.) So the leaves of mature plants I think can withstand at least several degrees below freezing for a few hours as long as their roots are kept warmer. And they get hardly any rainfall during the coldest months as well. --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Dec 8, 2014, at 1:41 PM, Lee Poulsen wrote: > > My mature Worsleya has never had any problems with temperatures down to 0°C, or maybe a degree colder than that. (I don't leave my seedlings outside in the winter--they're too valuable to possibly lose.) But remember, it always warms up above freezing during the day in So. Calif. even on the coldest days, and the same is true in this area of Brazil. > > In any case, if you want to kind of see what Worsleyas experience in their native habitat, I finally found actual weather data for the Organ Mountains National Park which is their home (after searching for it for the past 15 years). I plotted the temperature and rainfall data and have uploaded it to the wiki: From putman@pobox.upenn.edu Mon, 08 Dec 2014 18:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <54865105.501@pobox.upenn.edu> From: Stephen Putman Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2014 20:31:49 -0500 I have had my Worsleya (originally a seedling from Australia) for maybe 8+ years. It is quite sizable now and has started an offset. It flowered this year for the first time. It has been subject to upper 30's temperature several times with no visible effects. (Knowing the evil sense of humor of the "plant growing spirits" it will probably be dead this very morning.) Stephen Putman (central coastal Delaware in a small greenhouse that occasionally gets below 40 degrees). On 12/8/2014 11:03 AM, James Waddick wrote: > Dear Jim McK and all, > > Having killed a nice small Worsleya to cold, I can add my 2 cents. > > First every geographical climate variant may not give equal results. I grew a seedling Worsleya for a couple of years and it was kept outdoors in full sun exposed to sun and rain 24/7. It was planted in medium size to large gravel with a small percent of hummus soil. Given low concentration fertilizer it grew slowly but in a healthy manner. Each year I kept it outside even when temps approached mid 30s to 40s including light sleet price. At the first freeze it was wintered in a frost free green house. > > Of course the weather forecast did not call for even a hint of frost, but it was exposed to a brief period below 32 F for a few hours one night and it was DEAD - totally. I tried to revive and resuscitate, but nothing. > > Considering how well (or so I thought) it was growing, I’d sure love to get another seedling, but I have yet to give another a try. Some day, wishfully spoken. > > So my experience is that Worsleya cannot take any subfreezing temps, but is fine above that temp. Larger plants may be better able to withstand a light surface frosting. > > Good luck. Jim W. > > > >> On Dec 7, 2014, at 1:52 PM, Jim McKenney wrote: >> >> Over the years we've had several discussions which touch on the cold tolerance of Worsleya. From those discussions and from reading elsewhere, I came to the conclusion that it would be safe to leave my Worsleya out during light overnight freezes. > >> >> Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7 >> >> > > James Waddick > 8871 NW Brostrom Rd > Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 > USA > Phone 816-746-1949 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From iain@auchgourishbotanicgarden.org Tue, 09 Dec 2014 07:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <16D1E57A4E304498B7E6F870B31BBC87@homepc> From: Subject: Ornithogalum dormancy issue. Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2014 14:58:34 -0000 We had a similar experience with several taxa in the Lilium conservation collection here. The Winter Spring interface got seriously out of whack on one occasion probably because several species were at their limit of climate tolerances due to our location being so far north at c. 57 degrees 12 minutes. The subsequent Autumn when the bulbs were dug up in expectation of total losses they were almost totally in perfect health and even appeared to have increased in size. Perhaps this might be what has happened to that particular Ornithogalum species. We grow a few of this genus, some Spring flowering others do so in the Autumn but as has been commented on already mini bulbs breaking off from the root plate can take a few years to flower. There is also a problem with lack of flowering through congestion with too many bulbs in the clump, that's aside from the species not being suited to the local climate which is always an inconvenient 'pain'. From k.preteroti@verizon.net Thu, 11 Dec 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kenneth Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 15:19:39 -0500 My Haemanthus deformis is showing signs of flowering. Is this bulb self fertile? Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6b From teck11@embarqmail.com Fri, 12 Dec 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <004b01d01586$6517bd80$2f473880$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 16:06:52 -0500 Mine is blooming now. Want some pollen? -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Kenneth Sent: Thursday, December 11, 2014 3:20 PM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis My Haemanthus deformis is showing signs of flowering. Is this bulb self fertile? Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6b From kimcmich@hotmail.com Fri, 12 Dec 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 17:41:44 -0800 Ken, My experience is self-fertility is hit-or-miss with H. deformis. I have several bulbs and one of them has set copious seed when it bloomed alone whereas the other, even with the same diligent pollination, produced a single seed (which I assume was apomictic). So: It can't hurt to try or: I could send you some pollen from mine (though at the moment all the pollen has been washed off the mature anthers by a day of heavy rains)... -| From: k.preteroti@verizon.net > Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 15:19:39 -0500 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis > > My Haemanthus deformis is showing signs of flowering. Is this bulb self fertile? > > Ken P > Old Bridge, NJ > Zone 6b > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From zigur@hotmail.com Fri, 12 Dec 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Tim Harvey Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Thu, 11 Dec 2014 23:50:09 -0800 Mine have not selfed in 7 years - doesn't mean yours will not - so try with lowered expectations. T > My Haemanthus deformis is showing signs of flowering. Is this bulb self fertile? > From k.preteroti@verizon.net Fri, 12 Dec 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <4BBBB05E-3A74-4F3C-B0FD-B60C5E651B99@verizon.net> From: Kenneth Preteroti Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 10:43:36 -0500 YES I would like some pollen. Please advise how to store the pollen till the flowers are receptive. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From teck11@embarqmail.com Fri, 12 Dec 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <018401d0164b$a19be090$e4d3a1b0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Haemanthus deformis Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 15:38:46 -0500 I store all my amarylidaceae pollens in the fridge in glassine envelopes in a cheap plastic card file box with silica gel in the box. Glassine transmits water vapor very easily. Refresh the silica gel a day before freezing the box for long term storage. I find this method extremely compact and searchable. I have about 75 hippeastrum pollens in one 3x5 box and about 50 crinums in another with the prior years in the freezer. I'll dehydrate for a few days and then mail it to you if you send your address. Tim -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Kenneth Preteroti Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 10:44 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: Re: [pbs] Haemanthus deformis YES I would like some pollen. Please advise how to store the pollen till the flowers are receptive. Ken P Old Bridge, NJ Zone 6 b From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 14 Dec 2014 14:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1418593112.60522.BPMail_high_carrier@web120405.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell via pbs Subject: Looking for hippeastrum bukasovii pollen (Rick Buell) Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2014 13:38:32 -0800 My h.bukasovii is showing a flower sheath a little earlier than I had anticipated, a first flowering for this. I don't know if this will successfully flower or even produce seed, but if anybody is willing to share a swab of pollen from their own bukasovii, please write to me directly. I'm happy to reciprocate with postage, fresh pollen and/or seeds if the cross is successful. It appears that the flower should open in 2-3 weeks. Thanks, --Rick From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Mon, 15 Dec 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <290995772.149985.1418652976795.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10089.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Mr Mark Lysne via pbs Subject: Worsleya cold tolerance Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2014 14:16:16 +0000 (UTC) I had three Worsleya plants in my greenhouse when the temperature dropped to 20 degrees F inside the greenhouse because of a propane supplier screw up. I estimate that the greenhouse temperature was below freezing for somewhere between 12 to 24 hours. The two older, larger plants were slightly damaged but survived. The younger, smallest plant died. All three plants were potted in long fiber sphagnum moss that was a somewhat dry at the time. Mark _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From nickplummer@gmail.com Wed, 17 Dec 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <3BD84314-CB84-4344-AD8E-542312EFE909@gmail.com> From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: Hippeastrum papilio BX 345-9 Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 19:05:18 -0500 My Hippeastrum papilio obtained from BX 345 is currently blooming. What a lovely thing. My records show that it was donated by Bob Hoel, so thank you to Bob, Dell, and anyone else who keeps the exchange functioning. Nick Plummer Durham, NC, USA. Zone 7 From fcecilio58@gmail.com Wed, 17 Dec 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Fernando Cecilio Subject: Introduction Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 00:20:08 +0000 Hello Everybody! I am a new member from Portugal, looking forward to learning how to grow and multiply bulbs. I am interested in almost everything, but mainly Amaryllids, Irids and tropical geophytes. I have a Biology background and some experience in ornamentals but my forthcoming retirement opens new opportunities for the hobby! The hobbyist scene here is nonexistent, but if you have questions about bulbs in my country I'll be happy to answer them to my knowledge. Regards Fernando Cecilio https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zCOTXFPxxJ9Q.kfvQOOsNvlXw (about 9.000Km away...) Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Wed, 17 Dec 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Introduction Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 16:40:21 -0800 Welcome Fernando, Glad to hear that you've decided to join us bulb nuts in your retirement. Karl Church Dinuba, Ca zone 9b On Dec 17, 2014 4:20 PM, "Fernando Cecilio" wrote: > Hello Everybody! > I am a new member from Portugal, looking forward to learning how to grow > and multiply bulbs. > I am interested in almost everything, but mainly Amaryllids, Irids and > tropical geophytes. > I have a Biology background and some experience in ornamentals but my > forthcoming retirement opens new opportunities for the hobby! > The hobbyist scene here is nonexistent, but if you have questions about > bulbs in my country I'll be happy to answer them to my knowledge. > Regards > Fernando Cecilio > https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zCOTXFPxxJ9Q.kfvQOOsNvlXw > (about > 9.000Km away...) > Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fritchick@gmail.com Wed, 17 Dec 2014 17:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <270BBCA4-9775-49B6-953B-E4F5977EBED5@gmail.com> From: Bridget Subject: Introduction Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 19:56:27 -0500 Welcome Fernando!! You'll love this group: lots of great info and a great seed exchange!!! Bridget, in not-so-chilly SE Pennsylvania > On Dec 17, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Fernando Cecilio wrote: > > Hello Everybody! > I am a new member from Portugal, looking forward to learning how to grow > and multiply bulbs. > I am interested in almost everything, but mainly Amaryllids, Irids and > tropical geophytes. > I have a Biology background and some experience in ornamentals but my > forthcoming retirement opens new opportunities for the hobby! > The hobbyist scene here is nonexistent, but if you have questions about > bulbs in my country I'll be happy to answer them to my knowledge. > Regards > Fernando Cecilio > https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zCOTXFPxxJ9Q.kfvQOOsNvlXw (about > 9.000Km away...) > Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From randysgarden@gmail.com Wed, 17 Dec 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Randall P. Linke" Subject: Introduction Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 18:16:23 -0800 Greetings Fernando, Welcome to this great group! I'm formerly from the Monterey Bay region of California, now residing in Seattle where most of my bulb collection was promptly turned to mush in a heavy freeze the week I moved here before I could get it protected. I too love Amaryllids and Irids, amazed that at least some are surviving here. All the best, Randy On Wed, Dec 17, 2014 at 4:56 PM, Bridget wrote: > > Welcome Fernando!! You'll love this group: lots of great info and a great > seed exchange!!! > > Bridget, in not-so-chilly SE Pennsylvania > > > On Dec 17, 2014, at 7:20 PM, Fernando Cecilio > wrote: > > > > Hello Everybody! > > I am a new member from Portugal, looking forward to learning how to grow > > and multiply bulbs. > > I am interested in almost everything, but mainly Amaryllids, Irids and > > tropical geophytes. > > I have a Biology background and some experience in ornamentals but my > > forthcoming retirement opens new opportunities for the hobby! > > The hobbyist scene here is nonexistent, but if you have questions about > > bulbs in my country I'll be happy to answer them to my knowledge. > > Regards > > Fernando Cecilio > > https://mapsengine.google.com/map/edit?mid=zCOTXFPxxJ9Q.kfvQOOsNvlXw > (about > > 9.000Km away...) > > Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 18 Dec 2014 11:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: PBS website contact:Roscoea \"Red Gurkha\" Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 10:52:11 -0800 The following inquiry was received via the PBS website. If you know of any source of this plant within the USA, please reply directly to Bill Ferrante: Subject: PBS website contact:Roscoea \"Red Gurkha\" >Reply-To: Bill Ferrante > > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. > >I\'ve seen this in flower in the UK and I\'d love to grow it here. >But I have not been able to find a source in the US, nor do any of >the UK growers ship it to the US. Do you know of any source for the >plants here in the US? I would be very appreciative of any help you >may provide. Thank you. > >-- >Pacific Bulb Society web site >email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From nicholas.wightman@hotmail.com Sat, 20 Dec 2014 01:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nicholas Wightman Subject: Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. multiflorus Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 19:55:23 +0000 Does anyone know if it is usual for the flower stalk of Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. multiflorus to develop separately from the pseudo stem or partly enclosed within the pseudo stem? The plants that naturally occur in my area of Zambia produce the stalk partly enclosed within the pseudo stem with the leaves partially expanded, pictures of which I have posted to the wiki, but collections I made some 20 or so miles away develop the stalk separately from the pseudo stem and flower when completely leafless. Is this regular variation within the species? Cheers, Nick From ksayce@willapabay.org Thu, 18 Dec 2014 22:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <16748BEC-60CF-44D7-8CF1-A30BA07CF9F9@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: success getting seeds to Mexico Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2014 21:21:39 -0800 I just heard from Victor that Amaryllis belladonna seeds did reach him in Yucatan, Mexico, via the mail. I sent two packages, one in late October and one in late November, and while this took several weeks, apparently at least one package did get through. Happy holidays to all, Kathleen PNW, where it is raining hard, and an atmospheric river (which rains even harder) is due to arrive Saturday. Winter on the coast! From iranaquatic@yahoo.ca Sat, 20 Dec 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <955214339.1696983.1419101767503.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10664.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Mohammad Sadegh Subject: ixiolirion tataricum Seeds Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:56:07 +0000 (UTC) Hi Friends Anybody have seeds of Ixiolirion Tataricum ? Can you sell some seeds ? Thank you very muchMohammad SadeghArdabil ,Iran _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Sat, 20 Dec 2014 12:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <96960C10B6EB4929B64085F56D7A12D0@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: ixiolirion tataricum Seeds Date: Sat, 20 Dec 2014 12:58:06 -0700 Anybody have seeds of Ixiolirion Tataricum ? Can you sell some seeds ? Thank you very muchMohammad SadeghArdabil ,Iran A couple of seed lists offer this; here’s one. http://holubec.wbs.cz/ I think Kurt Vickery’s list did, too, but I misplaced it. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado USA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fcecilio58@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 03:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Fernando Cecilio Subject: When to repot Lachenalias? Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 10:33:07 +0000 Greetings! I have a few pots of seed grown Lachenalias (various species). They have been rather neglected and are still in the deep 10cm square plastic pots where I germinated them. They flower every year, but need to be potted on. When would you advise me to do it? During dormancy or while in growth? Any particular advice on these plants? Thanks Fernando Portugal Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From fcecilio58@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 03:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Fernando Cecilio Subject: Pot size for Babiana sambucina Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 10:38:18 +0000 Greetings again! I have 4-5 bulbs of seed grown Babiana sambucina still in the deep 10cm square plastic pot where I germinated them five years ago. They each year, and the leaf fans are now about 6" long but still rather thin leaves. No flowers, of course... they must be potted on. How big a pot would you recomend for them, and when should I do it? Any particular advice on these plants? Thanks Fernando Portugal Climate Mediterranean Köppen-Geiger *Csb* _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From johannes-ulrich-urban@t-online.de Sun, 21 Dec 2014 05:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <5496BB85.5090304@t-online.de> From: Johannes Ulrich Urban Subject: introduction Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:22:29 +0100 Welcome Fernando, Portugal is a very beautiful country rich in native plants, including bulbs, I have been twice and on one of the trips went from North to South through the whole country to get an impression. That was in a wet spring and there were flowers everywhere. Where in Portugal do you live? Welcome to this group, it is a nice group and there are also quite a few European members.... Bye for today and all the best for the Holidays for yourself and the group Uli From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <0B9DE852-2D09-4734-B4E2-2836F365AE77@verizon.net> From: Arnold Subject: When to repot Lachenalias? Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 09:48:16 -0500 Fernando: I repot my Lachenalia either at the end of their growth or just before they come into growth in August. I've always repotted on the crowded side in a four to six inch pot. Arnold New Jersey USA Sent from my iPhone > From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: When to repot Lachenalias Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:37:30 -0700 Fernando wrote > When would you advise me to > [repot Lachenalia]? Welcome to the group. I don't think repotting time matters much to Lachenalia. It is easier during dormancy. If you are careful not to break too many roots, repotting during active growth is fine, too, even for small seedlings. A very sandy soil mix in the original container helps prevent root damage during repotting. Leo Martin Zone 11 so far this winter Phoenix Arizona USA From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Sun, 21 Dec 2014 09:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <88E39BAC-C942-4D25-81F3-4C5C95CAB4A5@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: When to repot Lachenalias? Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:16:19 -0800 I agree with Leo. In the summer when they are dormant, you can repot them at any time. Although I don't think you should leave the bulbs exposed without soil or something around them for too long. (I.e., after removing them from the 10 cm pots, put them into the new pot the same day.) After they have started growing, you can repot them into a larger pot if you take then entire 10-cm clump including soil and place it into the new pot and place soil below and around it, but keep the surface of the clump at the same level in the new pot. I have found it is better to repot already-growing plants early in their growing season so that they have most of the growing season to adjust to the new pot. And as others have said, try to disturb the roots as little as possible. I believe in your climate that Lachenalias will almost grow all by themselves with very little need for special care. I haven't tried growing them in the ground, but I think they would do very well here in Southern California as long as they are in a location that does not receive water during the summer. Isn't Portugal's climate similar to California's? --Lee Poulsen Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a Latitude 34°N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m On Dec 21, 2014, at 2:33 AM, Fernando Cecilio wrote: > Greetings! > I have a few pots of seed grown Lachenalias (various species). > When would you advise me to do it? During dormancy or while in growth? > Any particular advice on these plants? From m.ager@xtra.co.nz Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <2AA9B404-2B44-4ACD-AF6C-BEF4C3549EF1@xtra.co.nz> From: Melanie Ager Subject: Buying seed please Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 Hi All Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please Regards Mel in NZ Sent from my iPhone From michaelcmace@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <08c101d01d54$dbef5d20$93ce1760$@gmail.com> From: "Michael Mace" Subject: When to repot Lachenalias? Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:32:27 -0800 Welcome to the list, Fernando! You asked when you should repot Lachenalia. The short answer is: when they are dormant. I think that's true for almost all bulbs. The major exception I'm aware of is the Amaryllids which have perennial roots even when they look dormant. Those seem to be happiest if repotted at the start of the leaf-growing season, when they can more easily replace roots that get damaged in repotting. As for other tips on Lachenalias... The bulbs are delicate and can get dried out, so don't leave them out of the pots for too long when you repot them (but they tolerate my summers in California, which are much drier than yours, so I think you won't have a major problem). Give them plenty of sun or they'll get tall and floppy. And they're relatively tender to frost, although I do not think that will be an issue in your climate north of Lisbon. If you're looking for insights on a particular Lachenalia species, look online to find the bulb's exact native location. A search on iSpot can help: http://www.ispotnature.org/communities/southern-africa Then you can use the PBS climate maps to compare your climate to the bulb's climate in South Africa. Here is the map for Europe: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/Europe_climate.gif Here's the map for South Africa: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/South_Africa_clima te.gif Here's the overall article on how to read the maps: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrySummerClimates Have fun! Mike San Jose, CA (zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) From tiede@pacbell.net Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <034801d01d55$4f1c8840$ed5598c0$@net> From: "Bracey Tiede" Subject: [Bulk] Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:35:40 -0800 Check out: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources Cheers, Bracey San Jose CA Zones 9B/16 -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Melanie Ager Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:28 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [Bulk] [pbs] Buying seed please Hi All Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please Regards Mel in NZ Sent from my iPhone From kimcmich@hotmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:37:41 -0800 Mel, I also patronize Lifestyle Seeds in South Africa (a South African focus - but the selection isn't even close to Silverhill's). Gordon Summerfield has an annual fall catalog of seeds and bulbs (pretty extensive selection of South African seeds and seedlings). Mesa Garden offers seed of many succulent and some bulbous plants from South Africa. There are a few ebay seed sellers, too - but I am suspicious most of them are Silverhill resellers... -| From: m.ager@xtra.co.nz > Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Buying seed please > > Hi All > Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please > > Regards Mel in NZ > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:48:07 +0000 what kinds of plant? Do you want specific families or genera. Do you want American species, or mediteranean plants..... Peter (UK) On 21 December 2014 at 19:27, Melanie Ager wrote: > Hi All > Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy > from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other > sources please > > From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1244431535.40832.1419192740070.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10742.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Jonathan via pbs Subject: Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 20:12:20 +0000 (UTC) I have had attentive customer service and very good germination results with seed from African Bulbs/Rhoda and Cameron McMaster.  As you look through the Wiki you may notice  that many of the pictures of South African bulbs were taken by them. Their website, africanbulbs.com  ,  is listed on the "Sources" page but, since they sell both seeds and bulbs, you would have to scroll to the bottom of the "Bulbs" list to find them under "Sources in the rest of the world". Jonathan LubarAlachua, Florida z8b   _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1419193916.80057.YahooMailBasic@web163101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:31:56 -0800 The McMasters are members of PBS, I would recommend them as an excellent source of seeds----------- Dell--------------------------------- On Sun, 12/21/14, Jonathan via pbs wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, December 21, 2014, 3:12 PM I have had attentive customer service and very good germination results with seed from African Bulbs/Rhoda and Cameron McMaster.  As you look through the Wiki you may notice  that many of the pictures of South African bulbs were taken by them. Their website, africanbulbs.com  ,  is listed on the "Sources" page but, since they sell both seeds and bulbs, you would have to scroll to the bottom of the "Bulbs" list to find them under "Sources in the rest of the world". Jonathan LubarAlachua, Florida z8b    _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From stnalpsoel@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Leo Martin Subject: Pot size for Babiana sambucina Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 14:09:56 -0700 Fernando asked about this plant. Your 5-year-old seedlings might flower this season, so don't repot now. Irids generally abandon the old corm as they grow. They form a new corm each year after a period of growth. If disturbed in growth before the new corm is formed, they may die. So it is best not to transplant irids in growth, but only during full dormancy. I have dropped containers of Moraea and Babiana in growth, and successfully repotted them, but it set them back. Some irids form flowers after making new growth. I suspect Babiana is like this. Transplanting in growth may prevent flowering that season. For Babiana, I would use the largest and deepest container you wish to handle. They will grow and multiply faster in larger containers. Transplant when fully dormant. Use a mineral and sand-based mix with little organic matter. Plant bulbs only 3-4cm deep. They will pull themselves down to the bottom of the container when they grow. If you plant them too deeply, however, they may not find the surface ans may not survive. Each season new growth follows the old, dead leaves to the surface, so don't pull dead Babiana leaves in the spring - cut them with a scissors at ground level. If you intend to repot while dormant, don't cut off the leaves. Use them as handles. If you set some irid bulbs with leaves at an angle in the new pot, not completely upright, the new growth will thence emerge at the same angle, since new growth follows the old leaves. This happens with my Babiana sinuata. If your climate has dry air in the winter, like mine, you can keep Babiana very moist or wet in the winter. I have never had fungus problems with any bulbs. People along the west coast of North America, where there is much more humidity, report Babiana rot if kept too moist. I have not been to Africa, but a member of our local cactus society, who has visited the winter-rainfall areas of South Africa, reports seeing Babiana growing in water in ditches beside the road. Leo Martin Zone 9? Phoenix Arizona USA From petersirises@gmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 14:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Pot size for Babiana sambucina Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 21:22:31 +0000 Babiana generally like very deep pots. Feed them if they have not had fresh compost for five years, or transplant to a deeper pot, - without disturbing the roots, if transplanting while they are in growth.. Peter (UK) On 21 December 2014 at 10:38, Fernando Cecilio wrote: > Greetings again! > I have 4-5 bulbs of seed grown Babiana sambucina still in the deep 10cm > square plastic pot where I germinated them five years ago. They each year, > and the leaf fans are now about 6" long but still rather thin leaves. No > flowers, of course... they must be potted on. > How big a pot would you recomend for them, and when should I do it? > Any particular advice on these plants? > > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Sun, 21 Dec 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Buying seed please Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 15:48:53 -0800 Greetings The last order I received from the McMasters came with the note that they were closing their nursery. A friend mentioned there may have been a family medical issue behind the closure. I would be delighted if the McMasters are again in business as they are a wonderful source. If anyone has heard of African Bulbs is again open, please inform the list... -| From: Seaton Ager Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 143, Issue 6 Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 22:17:29 -0800 Thanks for all the people who gave me great contacts, some of my intererests are Frits, crocus, tulip sp, arisaema, and bulbs in general, lilies the list goes on. mel ------------------------------ On Mon, Dec 22, 2014 9:15 AM NZDT pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: >Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > >List-Post:List-Archive: >Today's Topics: > > 1. Pot size for Babiana sambucina (Fernando Cecilio) > 2. introduction (Johannes Ulrich Urban) > 3. Re: When to repot Lachenalias (Leo Martin) > 4. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Arnold) > 5. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Lee Poulsen) > 6. Buying seed please (Melanie Ager) > 7. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Michael Mace) > 8. Re: [Bulk] Buying seed please (Bracey Tiede) > 9. Re: Buying seed please (Kipp McMichael) > 10. Re: Buying seed please (Peter Taggart) > 11. Re: Buying seed please (Jonathan) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 10:38:18 +0000 >From: Fernando Cecilio >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [pbs] Pot size for Babiana sambucina >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >Greetings again! >I have 4-5 bulbs of seed grown Babiana sambucina still in the deep 10cm >square plastic pot where I germinated them five years ago. They each year, >and the leaf fans are now about 6" long but still rather thin leaves. No >flowers, of course... they must be potted on. >How big a pot would you recomend for them, and when should I do it? >Any particular advice on these plants? >Thanks >Fernando > >Portugal >Climate Mediterranean K?ppen-Geiger *Csb* > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:22:29 +0100 >From: Johannes Ulrich Urban >To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages >Subject: [pbs] introduction >Message-ID: <5496BB85.5090304@t-online.de> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > >Welcome Fernando, > >Portugal is a very beautiful country rich in native plants, including >bulbs, I have been twice and on one of the trips went from North to >South through the whole country to get an impression. That was in a wet >spring and there were flowers everywhere. >Where in Portugal do you live? > >Welcome to this group, it is a nice group and there are also quite a few >European members.... > > >Bye for today and all the best for the Holidays for yourself and the group > > >Uli > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:37:30 -0700 >From: Leo Martin >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >Fernando wrote >> When would you advise me to >> [repot Lachenalia]? > >Welcome to the group. > >I don't think repotting time matters much to Lachenalia. It is easier >during dormancy. If you are careful not to break too many roots, repotting >during active growth is fine, too, even for small seedlings. A very sandy >soil mix in the original container helps prevent root damage during >repotting. > >Leo Martin >Zone 11 so far this winter >Phoenix Arizona USA > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 09:48:16 -0500 >From: Arnold >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <0B9DE852-2D09-4734-B4E2-2836F365AE77@verizon.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Fernando: > >I repot my Lachenalia either at the end of their growth or just before they come into growth in August. I've always repotted on the crowded side in a four to six inch pot. > >Arnold >New Jersey USA > >Sent from my iPhone > >> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:16:19 -0800 >From: Lee Poulsen >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <88E39BAC-C942-4D25-81F3-4C5C95CAB4A5@pacbell.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > >I agree with Leo. In the summer when they are dormant, you can repot them at any time. Although I don't think you should leave the bulbs exposed without soil or something around them for too long. (I.e., after removing them from the 10 cm pots, put them into the new pot the same day.) > >After they have started growing, you can repot them into a larger pot if you take then entire 10-cm clump including soil and place it into the new pot and place soil below and around it, but keep the surface of the clump at the same level in the new pot. I have found it is better to repot already-growing plants early in their growing season so that they have most of the growing season to adjust to the new pot. And as others have said, try to disturb the roots as little as possible. > >I believe in your climate that Lachenalias will almost grow all by themselves with very little need for special care. I haven't tried growing them in the ground, but I think they would do very well here in Southern California as long as they are in a location that does not receive water during the summer. Isn't Portugal's climate similar to California's? > >--Lee Poulsen >Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a >Latitude 34?N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > >On Dec 21, 2014, at 2:33 AM, Fernando Cecilio wrote: > >> Greetings! >> I have a few pots of seed grown Lachenalias (various species). > >> When would you advise me to do it? During dormancy or while in growth? >> Any particular advice on these plants? > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 6 >Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 >From: Melanie Ager >To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" >Subject: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: <2AA9B404-2B44-4ACD-AF6C-BEF4C3549EF1@xtra.co.nz> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Hi All >Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please > >Regards Mel in NZ > >Sent from my iPhone > >------------------------------ > >Message: 7 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:32:27 -0800 >From: "Michael Mace" >To: >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <08c101d01d54$dbef5d20$93ce1760$@gmail.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Welcome to the list, Fernando! > >You asked when you should repot Lachenalia. The short answer is: when they >are dormant. > >I think that's true for almost all bulbs. The major exception I'm aware of >is the Amaryllids which have perennial roots even when they look dormant. >Those seem to be happiest if repotted at the start of the leaf-growing >season, when they can more easily replace roots that get damaged in >repotting. > >As for other tips on Lachenalias... The bulbs are delicate and can get dried >out, so don't leave them out of the pots for too long when you repot them >(but they tolerate my summers in California, which are much drier than >yours, so I think you won't have a major problem). Give them plenty of sun >or they'll get tall and floppy. And they're relatively tender to frost, >although I do not think that will be an issue in your climate north of >Lisbon. > >If you're looking for insights on a particular Lachenalia species, look >online to find the bulb's exact native location. A search on iSpot can help: >http://www.ispotnature.org/communities/southern-africa > >Then you can use the PBS climate maps to compare your climate to the bulb's >climate in South Africa. Here is the map for Europe: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/Europe_climate.gif > >Here's the map for South Africa: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/South_Africa_clima >te.gif > >Here's the overall article on how to read the maps: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrySummerClimates > >Have fun! > >Mike >San Jose, CA >(zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 8 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:35:40 -0800 >From: "Bracey Tiede" >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >Subject: Re: [pbs] [Bulk] Buying seed please >Message-ID: <034801d01d55$4f1c8840$ed5598c0$@net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Check out: > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources > >Cheers, >Bracey >San Jose CA >Zones 9B/16 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Melanie Ager >Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:28 AM >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [Bulk] [pbs] Buying seed please > >Hi All >Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy >from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other >sources please > >Regards Mel in NZ > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 9 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:37:41 -0800 >From: Kipp McMichael >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Mel, > I also patronize Lifestyle Seeds in South Africa (a South African focus - but the selection isn't even close to Silverhill's). > Gordon Summerfield has an annual fall catalog of seeds and bulbs (pretty extensive selection of South African seeds and seedlings). > Mesa Garden offers seed of many succulent and some bulbous plants from South Africa. > There are a few ebay seed sellers, too - but I am suspicious most of them are Silverhill resellers... >-| >> From: m.ager@xtra.co.nz >> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: [pbs] Buying seed please >> >> Hi All >> Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please >> >> Regards Mel in NZ >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 10 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:48:07 +0000 >From: Peter Taggart >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >what kinds of plant? Do you want specific families or genera. Do you want >American species, or mediteranean plants..... >Peter (UK) > >On 21 December 2014 at 19:27, Melanie Ager wrote: > >> Hi All >> Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy >> from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other >> sources please >> >> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 11 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 20:12:20 +0000 (UTC) >From: Jonathan >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: > <1244431535.40832.1419192740070.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10742.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > > I have had attentive customer service and very good germination results with seed from African Bulbs/Rhoda and Cameron McMaster. ?As you look through the Wiki you may notice ?that many of the pictures of South African bulbs were taken by them. Their website, africanbulbs.com ?,??is listed on the "Sources" page but, since they sell both seeds and bulbs, you would have to scroll to the bottom of the "Bulbs" list to find them under "Sources in the rest of the world". >Jonathan LubarAlachua, Florida z8b ? > > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Digest Footer > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > >------------------------------ > >End of pbs Digest, Vol 143, Issue 6 >*********************************** From m.ager@xtra.co.nz Sun, 21 Dec 2014 23:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <1419229052.7336.BPMail_high_carrier@web121301.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Seaton Ager Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 143, Issue 6 Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 22:17:32 -0800 Thanks for all the people who gave me great contacts, some of my intererests are Frits, crocus, tulip sp, arisaema, and bulbs in general, lilies the list goes on. mel ------------------------------ On Mon, Dec 22, 2014 9:15 AM NZDT pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org wrote: >Send pbs mailing list submissions to > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > >To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > pbs-request@lists.ibiblio.org > >You can reach the person managing the list at > pbs-owner@lists.ibiblio.org > >When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >than "Re: Contents of pbs digest..." > > >List-Post:List-Archive: >Today's Topics: > > 1. Pot size for Babiana sambucina (Fernando Cecilio) > 2. introduction (Johannes Ulrich Urban) > 3. Re: When to repot Lachenalias (Leo Martin) > 4. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Arnold) > 5. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Lee Poulsen) > 6. Buying seed please (Melanie Ager) > 7. Re: When to repot Lachenalias? (Michael Mace) > 8. Re: [Bulk] Buying seed please (Bracey Tiede) > 9. Re: Buying seed please (Kipp McMichael) > 10. Re: Buying seed please (Peter Taggart) > 11. Re: Buying seed please (Jonathan) > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Message: 1 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 10:38:18 +0000 >From: Fernando Cecilio >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [pbs] Pot size for Babiana sambucina >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >Greetings again! >I have 4-5 bulbs of seed grown Babiana sambucina still in the deep 10cm >square plastic pot where I germinated them five years ago. They each year, >and the leaf fans are now about 6" long but still rather thin leaves. No >flowers, of course... they must be potted on. >How big a pot would you recomend for them, and when should I do it? >Any particular advice on these plants? >Thanks >Fernando > >Portugal >Climate Mediterranean K?ppen-Geiger *Csb* > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 2 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 13:22:29 +0100 >From: Johannes Ulrich Urban >To: Pacifib Bulb Society messages >Subject: [pbs] introduction >Message-ID: <5496BB85.5090304@t-online.de> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > >Welcome Fernando, > >Portugal is a very beautiful country rich in native plants, including >bulbs, I have been twice and on one of the trips went from North to >South through the whole country to get an impression. That was in a wet >spring and there were flowers everywhere. >Where in Portugal do you live? > >Welcome to this group, it is a nice group and there are also quite a few >European members.... > > >Bye for today and all the best for the Holidays for yourself and the group > > >Uli > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 3 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:37:30 -0700 >From: Leo Martin >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >Fernando wrote >> When would you advise me to >> [repot Lachenalia]? > >Welcome to the group. > >I don't think repotting time matters much to Lachenalia. It is easier >during dormancy. If you are careful not to break too many roots, repotting >during active growth is fine, too, even for small seedlings. A very sandy >soil mix in the original container helps prevent root damage during >repotting. > >Leo Martin >Zone 11 so far this winter >Phoenix Arizona USA > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 4 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 09:48:16 -0500 >From: Arnold >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <0B9DE852-2D09-4734-B4E2-2836F365AE77@verizon.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Fernando: > >I repot my Lachenalia either at the end of their growth or just before they come into growth in August. I've always repotted on the crowded side in a four to six inch pot. > >Arnold >New Jersey USA > >Sent from my iPhone > >> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 5 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 08:16:19 -0800 >From: Lee Poulsen >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <88E39BAC-C942-4D25-81F3-4C5C95CAB4A5@pacbell.net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 > >I agree with Leo. In the summer when they are dormant, you can repot them at any time. Although I don't think you should leave the bulbs exposed without soil or something around them for too long. (I.e., after removing them from the 10 cm pots, put them into the new pot the same day.) > >After they have started growing, you can repot them into a larger pot if you take then entire 10-cm clump including soil and place it into the new pot and place soil below and around it, but keep the surface of the clump at the same level in the new pot. I have found it is better to repot already-growing plants early in their growing season so that they have most of the growing season to adjust to the new pot. And as others have said, try to disturb the roots as little as possible. > >I believe in your climate that Lachenalias will almost grow all by themselves with very little need for special care. I haven't tried growing them in the ground, but I think they would do very well here in Southern California as long as they are in a location that does not receive water during the summer. Isn't Portugal's climate similar to California's? > >--Lee Poulsen >Pasadena, California, USA - USDA Zone 10a >Latitude 34?N, Altitude 1150 ft/350 m > >On Dec 21, 2014, at 2:33 AM, Fernando Cecilio wrote: > >> Greetings! >> I have a few pots of seed grown Lachenalias (various species). > >> When would you advise me to do it? During dormancy or while in growth? >> Any particular advice on these plants? > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 6 >Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 >From: Melanie Ager >To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" >Subject: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: <2AA9B404-2B44-4ACD-AF6C-BEF4C3549EF1@xtra.co.nz> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > >Hi All >Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please > >Regards Mel in NZ > >Sent from my iPhone > >------------------------------ > >Message: 7 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:32:27 -0800 >From: "Michael Mace" >To: >Subject: Re: [pbs] When to repot Lachenalias? >Message-ID: <08c101d01d54$dbef5d20$93ce1760$@gmail.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Welcome to the list, Fernando! > >You asked when you should repot Lachenalia. The short answer is: when they >are dormant. > >I think that's true for almost all bulbs. The major exception I'm aware of >is the Amaryllids which have perennial roots even when they look dormant. >Those seem to be happiest if repotted at the start of the leaf-growing >season, when they can more easily replace roots that get damaged in >repotting. > >As for other tips on Lachenalias... The bulbs are delicate and can get dried >out, so don't leave them out of the pots for too long when you repot them >(but they tolerate my summers in California, which are much drier than >yours, so I think you won't have a major problem). Give them plenty of sun >or they'll get tall and floppy. And they're relatively tender to frost, >although I do not think that will be an issue in your climate north of >Lisbon. > >If you're looking for insights on a particular Lachenalia species, look >online to find the bulb's exact native location. A search on iSpot can help: >http://www.ispotnature.org/communities/southern-africa > >Then you can use the PBS climate maps to compare your climate to the bulb's >climate in South Africa. Here is the map for Europe: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/Europe_climate.gif > >Here's the map for South Africa: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/files/00_others/South_Africa_clima >te.gif > >Here's the overall article on how to read the maps: >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/DrySummerClimates > >Have fun! > >Mike >San Jose, CA >(zone 9, min temp 20F / -7C) > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 8 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:35:40 -0800 >From: "Bracey Tiede" >To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" >Subject: Re: [pbs] [Bulk] Buying seed please >Message-ID: <034801d01d55$4f1c8840$ed5598c0$@net> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Check out: > >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Sources > >Cheers, >Bracey >San Jose CA >Zones 9B/16 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Melanie Ager >Sent: Sunday, December 21, 2014 11:28 AM >To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >Subject: [Bulk] [pbs] Buying seed please > >Hi All >Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy >from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other >sources please > >Regards Mel in NZ > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 9 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 11:37:41 -0800 >From: Kipp McMichael >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > >Mel, > I also patronize Lifestyle Seeds in South Africa (a South African focus - but the selection isn't even close to Silverhill's). > Gordon Summerfield has an annual fall catalog of seeds and bulbs (pretty extensive selection of South African seeds and seedlings). > Mesa Garden offers seed of many succulent and some bulbous plants from South Africa. > There are a few ebay seed sellers, too - but I am suspicious most of them are Silverhill resellers... >-| >> From: m.ager@xtra.co.nz >> Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 08:27:38 +1300 >> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> Subject: [pbs] Buying seed please >> >> Hi All >> Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please >> >> Regards Mel in NZ >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 10 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:48:07 +0000 >From: Peter Taggart >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > >what kinds of plant? Do you want specific families or genera. Do you want >American species, or mediteranean plants..... >Peter (UK) > >On 21 December 2014 at 19:27, Melanie Ager wrote: > >> Hi All >> Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy >> from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other >> sources please >> >> > > >------------------------------ > >Message: 11 >Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2014 20:12:20 +0000 (UTC) >From: Jonathan >To: Pacific Bulb Society >Subject: Re: [pbs] Buying seed please >Message-ID: > <1244431535.40832.1419192740070.JavaMail.yahoo@jws10742.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> > >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > > > I have had attentive customer service and very good germination results with seed from African Bulbs/Rhoda and Cameron McMaster. ?As you look through the Wiki you may notice ?that many of the pictures of South African bulbs were taken by them. Their website, africanbulbs.com ?,??is listed on the "Sources" page but, since they sell both seeds and bulbs, you would have to scroll to the bottom of the "Bulbs" list to find them under "Sources in the rest of the world". >Jonathan LubarAlachua, Florida z8b ? > > >------------------------------ > >Subject: Digest Footer > >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > >------------------------------ > >End of pbs Digest, Vol 143, Issue 6 >*********************************** From cameron@haznet.co.za Mon, 22 Dec 2014 00:17:05 -0800 Message-Id: <2FE3695BE70B424184396ED095DFD036@mcmasterdae8d5> From: "Cameron McMaster" Subject: Source of South African bulb seed Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:20:36 +0200 Hi With reference to the correspondence regarding sources of South African bulb seed, we are still very active in this field. Our new list will be available in January - please contact us for the new list. In the meantime here is list of fresh seed collected on my walks in the veld so far this spring. Boophone disticha Cyrthanthus smithii Babiana patula Babiana hirsuta Gladiolus brevifolius Gladiolus debilis Gladiolus maculatus, Gladiolus abbreviatus Gladiolus floribundus Gladiolus gracilis Gladiolus liliaceus Gladiolus patersoniae Gladiolus virescens Freesia alba Freesia laxa Freezia leichlinii Freesia fucata Hesperantha falcata Ixia longituba Melasphaerula ramosa Moraea elegans Moraea tripetala Geissorhiza inflexa Lapeirousia pyramidalis Lapeirousia corymbosa Romulea dichotoma Lachenalia orchidioides Lachenalia punctata Lachenalia ensifolia Lachenalia pusilla, Massonia pygmaea, depressa, echinata, pustulata and Daubenya zeyheri Eucomis autumnalis Eucomis comosa Tulbaghia capensis, comminsii and dregeana and galpinii Pauridia (Spiloxene) ovata Kind regards Cameron and Rhoda McMaster African Bulbs PO Box 26, Napier 7270 Tel: 028 423 3651 Fax: 086 679 33 86 Mobile: 082 774 2075 Email: africanbulbs@haznet.co.za Website: www.africanbulbs.com From sipos.barna@gmail.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 01:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Barna Sipos Subject: Buying seed please Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 10:05:27 +0100 Hi Mel, You should try this: http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/seller/390651/Seeds_and_All Sometimes quite rare plant seeds can be found here. Very reliable seller. Kind regards, Barna 2014-12-21 20:27 GMT+01:00 Melanie Ager : > Hi All > Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy > from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other > sources please > > Regards Mel in NZ > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From hanshuizing@home.nl Mon, 22 Dec 2014 02:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5497E009.2000405@home.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: Buying seed please Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 10:10:33 +0100 http://www.lifestyleseeds.co.za/ This is an other good and reliable address. Kind regards, Hans Huizing Melanie Ager schreef op 21-12-2014 om 20:27: > Hi All > Can people out there give me good sources of buying seeds please, I do buy from Silverhill Seeds and they are fabulous, but would love some other sources please > > Regards Mel in NZ > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <4BAC5878-C3E5-4467-9631-6F39551D27B5@gmail.com> From: Bruce And Jillian Schroder Subject: Buying of Seeds Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 22:22:36 +1100 Unfortunately Cameron McMaster is no longer selling seed but I understand Rhoda is still growing and selling bulbs. Sent from my iPad From hanshuizing@home.nl Mon, 22 Dec 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <5498006F.6030304@home.nl> From: Hans Huizing Subject: Buying of Seeds Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 12:28:47 +0100 Cameron is still selling seeds! Just ask for his list. Hans Huizing Holland Bruce And Jillian Schroder schreef op 22-12-2014 om 12:22: > Unfortunately Cameron McMaster is no longer selling seed but I understand Rhoda is still growing and selling bulbs. > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From bruceandjill.schroder@gmail.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 04:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <472AD339-FE0F-4E6D-8A18-FA611212DB3F@gmail.com> From: Bruce And Jillian Schroder Subject: Buying Seeds Please Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 22:31:49 +1100 As with Kip's message, I received the same advice earlier this year. As I understand it, Cameron is quite old and simply not up to it anymore. He has been trying to retire for a number of years! Sent from my iPad From kimcmich@hotmail.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Source of South African bulb seed Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:27:50 -0800 Greetings, I am *delighted* to hear you are still/again active - I had lamented the loss of your seeds and bulbs with several enthusiasts this fall. Wonderful news :-) I look forward to your list in January! -| From: cameron@haznet.co.za > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 09:20:36 +0200 > Subject: [pbs] Source of South African bulb seed > > Hi > > With reference to the correspondence regarding sources of South African bulb seed, we are still very active in this field. > > Our new list will be available in January - please contact us for the new list. In the meantime here is list of fresh seed collected on my walks in the veld so far this spring. > > Boophone disticha > Cyrthanthus smithii > > Babiana patula > Babiana hirsuta > Gladiolus brevifolius > Gladiolus debilis > Gladiolus maculatus, > Gladiolus abbreviatus > Gladiolus floribundus > Gladiolus gracilis > Gladiolus liliaceus > Gladiolus patersoniae > Gladiolus virescens > Freesia alba > Freesia laxa > Freezia leichlinii > Freesia fucata > Hesperantha falcata > Ixia longituba > Melasphaerula ramosa > Moraea elegans > Moraea tripetala > Geissorhiza inflexa > Lapeirousia pyramidalis > Lapeirousia corymbosa > Romulea dichotoma > Lachenalia orchidioides > Lachenalia punctata > Lachenalia ensifolia > Lachenalia pusilla, > Massonia pygmaea, depressa, echinata, pustulata and > Daubenya zeyheri > Eucomis autumnalis > Eucomis comosa > Tulbaghia capensis, comminsii and dregeana and galpinii > Pauridia (Spiloxene) ovata > > Kind regards > > Cameron and Rhoda McMaster > African Bulbs > PO Box 26, Napier 7270 > Tel: 028 423 3651 > Fax: 086 679 33 86 > Mobile: 082 774 2075 > Email: africanbulbs@haznet.co.za > Website: www.africanbulbs.com > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: seed suppliers Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 18:27:45 +0000 In that case I suggest that you join the Fritillaria group of the Alpine Garden Society (UK), the North American Rock Garden Club, The Scottish Rock Garden Club, The Alpine Garden Society, and participate in their seed exchanges. You might also consider Joining the Species Iris Group of North America, The Arisaema Enthusiats Group http://botu07.bio.uu.nl/Arisaema-L/ , and the Cyclamen Society (UK). this would give you access to most species in the groups of plants you mention. Commercial sources include Alplains seeds in North America, Chileflora, Brazil Plants, Kurt Vickery, Lifestyle seeds, Cameron Mcmaster, Silver Hill, Mojmir Pavelka (euro seeds). Peter (UK) On 22 December 2014 at 06:17, Seaton Ager wrote: Thanks for all the people who gave me great contacts, some of my intererests are Frits, crocus, tulip sp, arisaema, and bulbs in general, lilies the list goes on. From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 12:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <1655AE3D-69A5-4BD1-A7AC-AB5FA0CE9551@islandnet.com> From: Don/Diane Subject: seed suppliers Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 12:11:47 -0800 and The Crocus Group http://www.alpinegardensociety.net/plants/Crocus/information/Crocus+Group/129/ On 2014-12-22, at 10:27 AM, Peter Taggart wrote: > > In that case I suggest that you join --------- From makikogotowiderman@me.com Mon, 22 Dec 2014 18:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <79A75A4F-F250-4A5A-9B8D-977C880270C5@me.com> From: Makiko Goto-Widerman Subject: Griffina sp. Date: Mon, 22 Dec 2014 17:39:44 -0800 I’m looking for Griffina sp., Ethos sp. and Milla magnifier seeds. Makiko Goto-Widerman From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Tue, 23 Dec 2014 05:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Youngs Aberdeen" Subject: The Crocus Group -contacts and online resources Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 12:57:13 -0000 PBS members may not be aware that since at least 2008 the Crocus Group has had its main home on the Scottish Rock Garden Club Website. The updated Crocus Pages are here: http://www.srgc.org.uk/genera/index.php?log=crocus Contact details and other info for the group and updates on matters"crocus" can be forund in this section : http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?board=10.0 and a full archive of the newsletters of the Group is here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=12387.0 Regards, Maggi Young From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 23 Dec 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Diana ? (Telos) Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2014 21:52:26 -0500 Hi folks, I have not heard from her after several email attempts (in the span of a month) which is highly unusual for her. I hope nothing bad has happened to her. I hope she's just having some email difficulties. You out there ? Best, Jude From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Wed, 24 Dec 2014 06:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <549AB87C.9040503@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: Diana ? (Telos) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 04:58:36 -0800 I am fine. I don't think people realize how much work Telos is. I often work 18 hour days, and I just don't have time to spend at the computer answering e-mails that are not essential, so I may not respond when people send me e-mails asking me how I am doing. I don't have time to chat. Note the time on this e-mail. I have been up since 3am, and that's how I deal with essential stuff (essential being orders and problems relating to them, bookkeeping, updating the web site, etc.). My close friends complain that I don't contact them, and they are right. From daybreak to dark I am outside working in the greenhouses or packing orders, I am not at the computer. I have been accused before of being rude and dismissive in my handling of frequent e-mails from people. I apologize if it seems that way, but I am often completely overwhelmed with work. Diana Telos > Hi folks, > I have not heard from her after several email attempts (in the span of a > month) which is highly unusual for her. I hope nothing bad has happened to > her. I hope she's just having some email difficulties. You out there ? > Best, Jude > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Wed, 24 Dec 2014 07:17:09 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Diana ? (Telos) Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 09:54:31 -0500 Glad to hear you are OK. I completely understand, as I have a one-man plant business as well. I was in fact trying to place a new order. I simply started each email with "how are you?" Followed by the plants that I wanted. So when you have a moment, I'd like to place another order. Now that I know you're around, I will try again. Thanks, Jude On Wed, Dec 24, 2014 at 7:58 AM, Diana Chapman wrote: > I am fine. I don't think people realize how much work Telos is. I often > work 18 hour days, and I just don't have time to spend at the computer > answering e-mails that are not essential, so I may not respond when people > send me e-mails asking me how I am doing. I don't have time to chat. Note > the time on this e-mail. I have been up since 3am, and that's how I deal > with essential stuff (essential being orders and problems relating to them, > bookkeeping, updating the web site, etc.). My close friends complain that > I don't contact them, and they are right. From daybreak to dark I am > outside working in the greenhouses or packing orders, I am not at the > computer. I have been accused before of being rude and dismissive in my > handling of frequent e-mails from people. I apologize if it seems that > way, but I am often completely overwhelmed with work. > > Diana > Telos > >> Hi folks, >> I have not heard from her after several email attempts (in the span of a >> month) which is highly unusual for her. I hope nothing bad has happened to >> her. I hope she's just having some email difficulties. You out there ? >> Best, Jude >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From m.ager@xtra.co.nz Wed, 24 Dec 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: Melanie Ager Subject: Seed request thanks Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 12:40:56 +1300 Thank you again for all the replies and suggestion and great contacts, its been great, some I already get seed from from all over and I have discovered new contacts to buy seed from or be member of so wonderful, I love growing from seed Merry xmas Mel Sent from my iPhone From m.ager@xtra.co.nz Wed, 24 Dec 2014 16:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <732C9781-9A10-431E-9198-698F9F372C6C@xtra.co.nz> From: Melanie Ager Subject: Fritillaria seeds Date: Thu, 25 Dec 2014 12:44:55 +1300 Mel again, is there any other good sites or people to get fritillaria seed from (buy) Mel (nz) Sent from my iPhone From penstemon@Q.com Wed, 24 Dec 2014 17:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: <7EEB45EACF324C4B8056BEBB505122B3@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Fritillaria seeds Date: Wed, 24 Dec 2014 17:59:12 -0700 Mel again, is there any other good sites or people to get fritillaria seed from (buy) All kinds of places. The North American Rock Garden Society, Scottish Rock Garden Club, and Alpine Garden Society; seed lists from Holubec, Pavelka, Stanek, and Vickery. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado (I got a weird rejection message last time I sent this, so re-sending it.) From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Fri, 26 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Pot size for Babiana sambucina Date: Fri, 26 Dec 2014 19:34:46 +0000 Deep pots as the well known 5 gallon plastic buckets. In Babianas the first (lower) pair of leaves always appear at ground level, with never any hint of a neck (say, a stem) visible. It is incredible how deep an established clump can travel to. A very well drained mix and for a container that size, huge drainage holes. Feeding like Peter says can let you have an old clump in the same container, provided the drainage is excellent, for 8 years or more without repotting. From pbs@pilling.demon.co.uk Sat, 27 Dec 2014 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <549EEA6C.1020603@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: Mystery Ledebouria for identification Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 17:20:44 +0000 Hi, P M Mathai President, Indian Society of Cacti & Succulents writes: "I wonder if you could help in identification of a Ledebouria from an area around Graaff Reinet, in Eastern Cape, South Africa. Here is a photo of the Ledebouria from the old Shooting Range (taken over by housing developments, many years back) of Grahamstown, Eastern Cape, South Africa." Photo here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#PMM0 Answers to the list please. -- David Pilling North West England From farmerguys08@gmail.com Sat, 27 Dec 2014 14:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: Paul Machado Subject: Table of contents for IBS publications Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 13:37:44 -0800 Does anyone know if there exists an electronic document of IBS publications table of contents from 1934 until they disbanded? Also, are there pdf's available of these publications? Thanks in advance. Paul Machado From arnold140@verizon.net Sat, 27 Dec 2014 16:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Arnold Subject: Table of contents for IBS publications Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 17:43:50 -0500 Paul: I have many of the old issues. If your interested in something specific I can look for it for you. Arnold New Jersey Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 27, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Paul Machado wrote: > > Does anyone know if there exists an electronic document of IBS publications > table of contents from 1934 until they disbanded? > Also, are there pdf's available of these publications? > Thanks in advance. > Paul Machado > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From enoster@hotmail.com Sat, 27 Dec 2014 19:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: T O Subject: Tulip species pollination ecology Date: Sat, 27 Dec 2014 18:56:58 -0800 Happy New Years everyone! I am looking for evidence or direct observations of floral visitors or pollinators of species Tulips in their native habitats. There is little empirical evidence of the pollination ecology of wild tulip species. All I could find was a journal paper on beetle pollination mentioning a few species of tulips as fitting the beetle pollination syndrome. I would also be interested in hearing about any observations anyone has had of insect visitors in the garden. Much anecdotal evidence mentions bees as frequent visitors of tulips but I can't see this for myself because deer and the variety of rodents that live in my yard which thank me for the delicious tulip snacks I've tried to grow. Thanks! -Travis Owen From ixia@dcsi.net.au Sat, 27 Dec 2014 20:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <016f01d0224c$94732f60$bd598e20$@net.au> From: "Bill Richardson" Subject: Table of contents for IBS publications Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 14:15:48 +1100 I have many of the old publications too. Do you want something specific? Regards, Bill Richardson Australia Ixiaking > On Dec 27, 2014, at 4:37 PM, Paul Machado wrote: > > Does anyone know if there exists an electronic document of IBS > publications table of contents from 1934 until they disbanded? > Also, are there pdf's available of these publications? > Thanks in advance. > Paul Machado From ds429@frontier.com Sun, 28 Dec 2014 09:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <134964.70095.bm@smtp235.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 373 Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 16:10:44 +0000 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto:ds429@frontier.com Include "BX 373" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! From Arnold Trachtenberg: 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. From Dell Sherk: 2. Seeds of Clivia "Solomone light orange x yellow" selfed From Rimmer de Vries: 3. Small bulbs of Tulipa sylvestris From Uli Urban: 4. Small tubers of Nymphaea sp. ??, purple/blue, tuberous. I am very pleased to be able to share these tubers this year. I got this plant under the name of N. daubenyana which it is definetely not. The closest I came when I compared pictues on the web is the Hybrid 'Tina' . A magnificent aquatic with large very fragrant purple-blue flowers with yellow center that last several days and which are held above the water surface. In summer it needs as warm water as possible, mine is growing in a free standing tank of black plastic which is warmed up by the sun. No artificial heating. Fertilized with Osmocote which does not trouble the water. It should perform very well in warm summer climates in the US. It is viviparous which means that it can form young plants on the leaves. This is stimulated by cool temperatures and as we had an exceptionally long and mild autumn I could harvest a lot of small tubers that formed on the leaves where the stalk is attached. Some of these had sprouted and formed small leaves and roots. These small tubers should be kept slighty moist in sphagnum or peat or the like, I treated them with a fungicide to prevent rot. In spring they should be started in warm water in an aquarium with extra light and planted out into their summer basin once the water is warm enough. I start mine in May at 25°C in small pots and plant them into a large pot in the tank in June. In warmer climes this can be done earlier. The adult tubers reach about nut-size. After the first frost (I had flowers poking through a thin layer of ice, frozen of course) I remove the pot from the tank, cut off all the leaves at about 15cm from the base, give a GOOD spray of fungicide and dry down the pot slowly. I remove all remains of leaf stalks as they die down. Before it is totally dry it is wrapped into a plastic bag and stored at about 12°C until May. I had some losses if the pot gets too dry or if mildew attacks while still very wet. I have never had leaf tubers in autumn so this is an experiment for me, too. I keep some of the sprouted tubers in unheated water in the cold greenhouse, they look o.k. so far. 5. Begonia martiana var gracilis (syn. B. gracilis), the "hollyhock begonia" The material supplied is not seed but small bulbili which are produced en masse at the end of the growing period. These should be "sown" immediately on receipt and kept just barely moist. Begonia martiana sprouts fairly late at the end of May. If kept totally dry these bulbili may dessicate and die. A very rewarding beautiful plant. But needs some patience if grown from these bulbili. 6. Seed of Nerine bowdenii (?) Type Human. originally from wild seed sent by David Human. This is a VERY hardy plant with large bulbs and a large inflorescence with fairly small very frilled pink flowers. Different from ordinary N. bowdenii. Knowlegable people commented that this may not be N. bowdenii but a different species. It takes a while to raise a flowering plant from seed but is very much worth the patience. Has survived the coldest winter with a good mulch and overhead protection from winter wet. Seed needs immediate sowing as it already starts to sprout. 7. Seed of Nerine bowdenii Type Oswald. The origin of this form cannot be traced. I got very good bulbs from Mr Oswald from former East Germany where it was grown for a long time. East Germany was fairly isolated from the West during communist times but had an active gardening tradition. Many breeding programmes emphasized hardiness with the (political) aim to be independent and self sufficient. He grew these bulbs amongst the beans and strawberries in rows in his vegetable garden and gave it a very thick winter mulch made of compost and stable manure. A very good plant, hardy in almost all winters with a good mulch and overhead protection against winter wet. Typical bright pink Nerine bowdenii flowers. Needs immediate sowing. Thank you, Arnold, Rimmer, and Uli !! Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX Sent from Windows Mail _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Sun, 28 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <16438428.1059112.1419790678244.JavaMail.root@vznit170164.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 373 Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 12:17:58 -0600 (CST) From Arnold Trachtenberg: 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. Here's what the Crytanthus looks like. Multiplies easily. https://www.flickr.com/photos/88332547@N03/15752340810/ Arnold New Jersey From xerantheum@gmail.com Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Nhu Nguyen Subject: Mystery Ledebouria for identification Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 10:52:24 -0800 I think it might be one of the many forms of L. revoluta? Nhu Hi, P M Mathai President, Indian Society of Cacti & Succulents writes: "I wonder if you could help in identification of a Ledebouria from an area around Graaff Reinet, in Eastern Cape, South Africa. Here is a photo of the Ledebouria from the old Shooting Range (taken over by housing developments, many years back) of Grahamstown, Eastern Cape, South Africa." Photo here: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/MysteryBulbs#PMM0 Answers to the list please. -- David Pilling North West England From avbeek1@hotmail.com Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Aad van Beek Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 373 Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 19:58:52 +0100 Hi Dell, I would like to receive the following numbers 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. 2. Seeds of Clivia "Solomone light orange x yellow" selfed 4. Small tubers of Nymphaea 5. Begonia martiana var gracilis (syn. B. gracilis) 6. Seed of Nerine bowdenii (?) Type Human. 7. Seed of Nerine bowdenii Type Oswald. Regards, Aad van Beek G.C. Marshallstraat 30 9728WS Groningen The Netherlands > On 28 Dec 2014, at 17:46, ds429@frontier.com wrote: > > Dear All, > > The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto:ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 373" in the subject line. > > > Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > > Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > > If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > > I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > From Arnold Trachtenberg: > > 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. > > From Dell Sherk: > > 2. Seeds of Clivia "Solomone light orange x yellow" selfed > > From Rimmer de Vries: > > 3. Small bulbs of Tulipa sylvestris > > From Uli Urban: > > 4. Small tubers of Nymphaea sp. ??, purple/blue, tuberous. I am very pleased to be able to share > these tubers this year. I got this plant under the name of N. daubenyana > which it is definetely not. The closest I came when I compared pictues > on the web is the Hybrid 'Tina' . A magnificent aquatic with large very > fragrant purple-blue flowers with yellow center that last several days > and which are held above the water surface. In summer it needs as warm > water as possible, mine is growing in a free standing tank of black > plastic which is warmed up by the sun. No artificial heating. Fertilized > with Osmocote which does not trouble the water. It should perform very > well in warm summer climates in the US. It is viviparous which means > that it can form young plants on the leaves. This is stimulated by cool > temperatures and as we had an exceptionally long and mild autumn I could > harvest a lot of small tubers that formed on the leaves where the stalk > is attached. Some of these had sprouted and formed small leaves and > roots. These small tubers should be kept slighty moist in sphagnum or > peat or the like, I treated them with a fungicide to prevent rot. In > spring they should be started in warm water in an aquarium with extra > light and planted out into their summer basin once the water is warm > enough. I start mine in May at 25°C in small pots and plant them into a > large pot in the tank in June. In warmer climes this can be done earlier. > The adult tubers reach about nut-size. After the first frost (I had > flowers poking through a thin layer of ice, frozen of course) I remove > the pot from the tank, cut off all the leaves at about 15cm from the > base, give a GOOD spray of fungicide and dry down the pot slowly. I > remove all remains of leaf stalks as they die down. Before it is totally > dry it is wrapped into a plastic bag and stored at about 12°C until May. > I had some losses if the pot gets too dry or if mildew attacks while > still very wet. I have never had leaf tubers in autumn so this is an > experiment for me, too. I keep some of the sprouted tubers in unheated > water in the cold greenhouse, they look o.k. so far. > > 5. Begonia martiana var gracilis (syn. B. gracilis), the "hollyhock begonia" The material > supplied is not seed but small bulbili which are produced en masse at > the end of the growing period. These should be "sown" immediately on > receipt and kept just barely moist. Begonia martiana sprouts fairly late > at the end of May. If kept totally dry these bulbili may dessicate and > die. A very rewarding beautiful plant. But needs some patience if grown > from these bulbili. > > 6. Seed of Nerine bowdenii (?) Type Human. originally from wild seed sent by David > Human. This is a VERY hardy plant with large bulbs and a large > inflorescence with fairly small very frilled pink flowers. Different > from ordinary N. bowdenii. Knowlegable people commented that this may > not be N. bowdenii but a different species. It takes a while to raise a > flowering plant from seed but is very much worth the patience. Has > survived the coldest winter with a good mulch and overhead protection > from winter wet. Seed needs immediate sowing as it already starts to sprout. > > 7. Seed of Nerine bowdenii Type Oswald. The origin of this form cannot be traced. I > got very good bulbs from Mr Oswald from former East Germany where it was > grown for a long time. East Germany was fairly isolated from the West > during communist times but had an active gardening tradition. Many > breeding programmes emphasized hardiness with the (political) aim to be > independent and self sufficient. He grew these bulbs amongst the beans > and strawberries in rows in his vegetable garden and gave it a very > thick winter mulch made of compost and stable manure. A very good plant, > hardy in almost all winters with a good mulch and overhead protection > against winter wet. Typical bright pink Nerine bowdenii flowers. Needs > immediate sowing. > > > > > Thank you, Arnold, Rimmer, and Uli !! > > > > > Best wishes, > > Dell > > > > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > Sent from Windows Mail > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Tulip species pollination ecology Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:14:51 -0800 Travis asked, >I am looking for evidence or direct observations of floral visitors >or pollinators of species Tulips in their native habitats. There is >little empirical evidence of the pollination ecology of wild tulip >species. All I could find was a journal paper on beetle pollination >mentioning a few species of tulips as fitting the beetle pollination syndrome. Kurt Vickery, an expert on wild tulips, noticed this question and wrote me, sending a photo of beetles pollinating wild tulips. He says he has not noticed many insects visiting the wild plants. I haven't noticed any on garden species tulips, but they certainly set seed in this area (Portland, Oregon). Travis also mentioned having trouble growing tulips in his southern Oregon garden because of burrowing predators. This was a big problem for me when I lived in a vole-ridden country place, but now that I live in a suburb there are no voles or field mice apparently present, and I see well-established colonies of commercial tulips in the neighborhood. I don't buy tulip bulbs for fear of introducing viruses, but I'm growing many from seed and hope to have some raised beds built for them this summer. I'll lay heavy-duty woven groundcloth under the beds to prevent moles (which are a problem here) from coming into them; the local mole species eats some plant material, though mostly worms and insects. You can also protect your tulips by planting them in strongly made plastic mesh pots, obtainable from water-garden suppliers. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Sun, 28 Dec 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Mystery Ledebouria for identification Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 02:30:35 +0000 It resembles the plant grown for long as Drimiopsis kirkii From fcecilio58@gmail.com Mon, 29 Dec 2014 02:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Fernando Cecilio Subject: Lachenalia & Babiana: Thanks! Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 09:41:52 +0000 Dear All! Thanks a lot for all the help about my last posts. I have learned a lot and will do things differently from what I had planned. This is a great list for information, brim-full of helpfull people... Now I have to read all the Worsleya germinating posts: I have 7 (yes: that is seven!!!) seeds arriving... Thank you also for the direct mails. I am trying to answer them as fast as I can, but sometimes I loose track. Please re-send if you didn't get an answer! Regards Fernando From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 29 Dec 2014 07:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1419864885.97676.YahooMailBasic@web163105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 373 Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 06:54:45 -0800 I have received your order. Best wishes, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX -------------------------------------------- On Sun, 12/28/14, Aad van Beek wrote: Subject: Re: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 373 To: "Pacific Bulb Society" Date: Sunday, December 28, 2014, 1:58 PM Hi Dell, I would like to receive the following numbers 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. 2. Seeds of Clivia "Solomone light orange x yellow" selfed 4. Small tubers of Nymphaea 5. Begonia martiana var gracilis (syn. B. gracilis) 6. Seed of Nerine bowdenii (?) Type Human. 7. Seed of Nerine bowdenii Type Oswald. Regards, Aad van Beek G.C. Marshallstraat 30 9728WS Groningen The Netherlands > On 28 Dec 2014, at 17:46, ds429@frontier.com wrote: > > Dear All, > >      The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. > > If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at > > mailto:ds429@frontier.com > > Include "BX 373" in the subject line. > > >        Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. > >    Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: > >        If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: > > Dell Sherk > 55 W. High St. > Salem, WV 26426 > USA > > Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. > >            I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. > IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! > From Arnold Trachtenberg: > > 1. Bulbs of Cyrtanthus hybrid, orange-scarlet trumpets. > > From Dell Sherk: > > 2. Seeds of Clivia "Solomone light orange x yellow" selfed > > From Rimmer de Vries: > > 3. Small bulbs of Tulipa sylvestris > > From Uli Urban: > > 4. Small tubers of Nymphaea sp. ??,  purple/blue, tuberous. I am very pleased to be able to share > these tubers this year. I got this plant under the name of N. daubenyana > which it is definetely not.  The closest I came when I compared pictues > on the web is the Hybrid 'Tina' . A magnificent aquatic with large very > fragrant purple-blue flowers with yellow center that last several days > and which are held above the water surface. In summer it needs as warm > water as possible, mine is growing in a free standing tank of black > plastic which is warmed up by the sun. No artificial heating. Fertilized > with Osmocote which does not trouble the water. It should perform very > well in warm summer climates in the US. It is viviparous which means > that it can form young plants on the leaves. This is stimulated by cool > temperatures and as we had an exceptionally long and mild autumn I could > harvest a lot of small tubers that formed on the leaves where the stalk > is attached. Some of these had sprouted and formed small leaves and > roots. These small tubers should be kept slighty moist in sphagnum or > peat or the like, I treated them with a fungicide to prevent rot. In > spring they should be started in warm water in an aquarium with extra > light and planted out into their summer basin once the water is warm > enough. I start mine in May at 25°C in small pots and plant them into a > large pot in the tank in June. In warmer climes this can be done earlier. > The adult tubers reach about nut-size. After the first frost (I had > flowers poking through a thin layer of ice, frozen of course) I remove > the pot from the tank, cut off all the leaves at about 15cm from the > base, give a GOOD spray of fungicide and dry down the pot slowly. I > remove all remains of leaf stalks as they die down. Before it is totally > dry it is wrapped into a plastic bag and stored at about 12°C until May. > I had some losses if the pot gets too dry or if mildew attacks while > still very wet. I have never had leaf tubers in autumn so this is an > experiment for me, too. I keep some of the sprouted tubers in unheated > water in the cold greenhouse, they look o.k. so far. > > 5. Begonia martiana var gracilis (syn. B. gracilis), the "hollyhock begonia" The material > supplied is not seed but small bulbili which are produced en masse at > the end of the growing period. These should be "sown" immediately on > receipt and kept just barely moist. Begonia martiana sprouts fairly late > at the end of May. If kept totally dry these bulbili may dessicate and > die. A very rewarding beautiful plant. But needs some patience if grown > from these bulbili. > > 6. Seed of Nerine bowdenii (?) Type Human. originally from wild seed sent by David > Human. This is a VERY hardy plant with large bulbs and a large > inflorescence with fairly small very frilled pink flowers. Different > from ordinary N. bowdenii. Knowlegable people commented that this may > not be N. bowdenii but a different species. It takes a while to raise a > flowering plant from seed but is very much worth the patience. Has > survived the coldest winter with a good mulch and overhead protection > from winter wet. Seed needs immediate sowing as it already starts to sprout. > > 7. Seed of Nerine bowdenii Type Oswald. The origin of this form cannot be traced. I > got very good bulbs from Mr Oswald from former East Germany where it was > grown for a long time. East Germany was fairly isolated from the West > during communist times but had an active gardening tradition. Many > breeding programmes emphasized hardiness with the (political) aim to be > independent and self sufficient. He grew these bulbs amongst the beans > and strawberries in rows in his vegetable garden and gave it a very > thick winter mulch made of compost and stable manure. A very good plant, > hardy in almost all winters with a good mulch and overhead protection > against winter wet. Typical bright pink Nerine bowdenii flowers. Needs > immediate sowing. > > > > > Thank you, Arnold, Rimmer, and Uli !! > > > > > Best wishes, > > Dell > > > > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > > > > > > > Sent from Windows Mail > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ds429@frontier.com Mon, 29 Dec 2014 10:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <1419873185.55730.YahooMailBasic@web163105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Pacific BX 373 CLOSED Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 09:13:05 -0800 Packages should go out after the New Year. Enjoy, Dell Dell Sherk, PBS BX From enoster@hotmail.com Mon, 29 Dec 2014 12:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: From: T O Subject: Tulip species pollination ecology Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2014 11:53:23 -0800 Thank you, Jane. Kurt did get in touch with me with the pictures. Fascinating! Its funny how native wildflowers are often "weeds" while those from other countries are the finest treasures! Same can probably be said from any country's point of view. I do grow a few kinds of tulips. Besides the big hybrid types, I have a small patch of "Lilac Wonder" (bakeri?). They already have 4" of leaf growth, and it seems like they divided into two or three bulbs for each one I planted. Makes me wonder if they will flower? On moles, I think they only have teeth on the upper jaw. I have a theory that the damage they cause to bulbs is from their claws when they are moving under the surface, severing any shoots under the surface. What looked like green leafy growth of some tulips last year pulled out of the ground with nothing attached last year. Jerk moles... Message: 3 Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2014 11:14:51 -0800 From: Jane McGary To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Tulip species pollination ecology Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Travis asked, >I am looking for evidence or direct observations of floral visitors >or pollinators of species Tulips in their native habitats. There is >little empirical evidence of the pollination ecology of wild tulip >species. All I could find was a journal paper on beetle pollination >mentioning a few species of tulips as fitting the beetle pollination syndrome. Kurt Vickery, an expert on wild tulips, noticed this question and wrote me, sending a photo of beetles pollinating wild tulips. He says he has not noticed many insects visiting the wild plants. I haven't noticed any on garden species tulips, but they certainly set seed in this area (Portland, Oregon). Travis also mentioned having trouble growing tulips in his southern Oregon garden because of burrowing predators. This was a big problem for me when I lived in a vole-ridden country place, but now that I live in a suburb there are no voles or field mice apparently present, and I see well-established colonies of commercial tulips in the neighborhood. I don't buy tulip bulbs for fear of introducing viruses, but I'm growing many from seed and hope to have some raised beds built for them this summer. I'll lay heavy-duty woven groundcloth under the beds to prevent moles (which are a problem here) from coming into them; the local mole species eats some plant material, though mostly worms and insects. You can also protect your tulips by planting them in strongly made plastic mesh pots, obtainable from water-garden suppliers. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA -Travis Owen RR, OR From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 08:17:04 -0800 Message-Id: <14234936.1130930.1420041347019.JavaMail.root@vznit170190.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:55:47 -0600 (CST) The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate it's a renewal. All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address and I'll check the records. Again, Happy New Year to all. PBS c/o Arnold Trachtenberg 140 Lakeview Avenue Leonia, New Jersey 07605 From jazamah@hotmail.com Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: jose zaldivar Subject: paid renewal 2015 Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 16:22:41 +0000 Hello Arnold I just paid the pbs renewal 2015. Please, tell me if I have some pbs BX debt. I have received up BX 371. Thank you and happy new year. Jose Zaldivar > Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 09:55:47 -0600 > From: arnold140@verizon.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Treasurer's notes. > > The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. > > Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html > > You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate it's a renewal. > > All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. > > If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address and I'll check the records. > > Again, Happy New Year to all. > > > PBS c/o > Arnold Trachtenberg > 140 Lakeview Avenue > Leonia, New Jersey 07605 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From teck11@embarqmail.com Wed, 31 Dec 2014 10:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <001701d0251f$5c49f8f0$14ddead0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: travel by drone Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 12:29:40 -0500 All, A friend sent me this link to some very interesting drone videos. It also suggests a method for studying and photographing cliff dwelling geophytes. http://travelbydrone.com/ Tim From barbara109@cox.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 12:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <54A44BCF.9080502@cox.net> From: Barbara Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 12:17:35 -0700 Hi Arnold, May I pay the membership and the BX what I owe in one check? I paid for the BX but made a mistake and wrote the check to you instead to PBS. Please, let me know, thanks. Barbara Przadka On 12/31/2014 8:55 AM, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. > > Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html > > You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate it's a renewal. > > All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. > > If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address and I'll check the records. > > Again, Happy New Year to all. > > > PBS c/o > Arnold Trachtenberg > 140 Lakeview Avenue > Leonia, New Jersey 07605 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Arnold Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 16:04:22 -0500 Yes that's fine. Just make a note on the bottom left of the check. I'll forget by the time it comes in Happy new year Arnold Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 31, 2014, at 2:17 PM, Barbara wrote: > > Hi Arnold, > > May I pay the membership and the BX what I owe in one check? > I paid for the BX but made a mistake and wrote the check to you instead to PBS. > Please, let me know, thanks. > > Barbara Przadka > > > >> On 12/31/2014 8:55 AM, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: >> The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. >> >> Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html >> >> You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate it's a renewal. >> >> All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. >> >> If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address and I'll check the records. >> >> Again, Happy New Year to all. >> >> >> PBS c/o >> Arnold Trachtenberg >> 140 Lakeview Avenue >> Leonia, New Jersey 07605 >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From barbara109@cox.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 13:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <54A46670.5040709@cox.net> From: Barbara Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 14:11:12 -0700 Will do! Thank you Arnold and Happy New Year to you and yours! Barbara On 12/31/2014 2:04 PM, Arnold wrote: > Yes that's fine. Just make a note on the bottom left of the check. I'll forget by the time it comes in > > Happy new year > > Arnold > > Sent from my iPhone > > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 15:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Renewals from recently joined members Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 15:06:19 -0800 If you joined the dues-paying part of the PBS for the first time AFTER SEPTEMBER 30, 2014, you are already paid up through 2015 and you do not have to send a renewal payment at this time. Your next payment will be due on January 1, 2016. This policy reflects the publication schedule of the Bulb Garden newsletter, one of the Society's largest expenses supported by dues. Thanks to all who have renewed today! Keep them coming! Jane McGary Membership Coordinator, Pacific Bulb Society From barbara@adamsranch.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 16:17:02 -0800 Message-Id: From: "Barbara Adams" Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2015 00:07:31 +0000 I renewed my membership and there is no way to add that it was a renewal. The note section does not show up using it this way. Only if you go direct to paypal and fill out who you are sending it to. zone 9B Latrobe Ca ------ Original Message ------ From: arnold140@verizon.net To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: 12/31/2014 7:55:47 AM Subject: [pbs] Treasurer's notes. >The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid >through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. > >Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html > >You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the >PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate >it's a renewal. > >All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. > >If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address >and I'll check the records. > >Again, Happy New Year to all. > > >PBS c/o >Arnold Trachtenberg >140 Lakeview Avenue >Leonia, New Jersey 07605 >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From arnold140@verizon.net Wed, 31 Dec 2014 19:17:03 -0800 Message-Id: <5405451.1162856.1420081167259.JavaMail.root@vznit170190.mailsrvcs.net> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Treasurer's notes. Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2014 20:59:27 -0600 (CST) Barbara: Thanks for the note. I'll see if we can make that change. Happy New Year. Arnold On 12/31/14, Barbara Adams wrote: I renewed my membership and there is no way to add that it was a renewal. The note section does not show up using it this way. Only if you go direct to paypal and fill out who you are sending it to. zone 9B Latrobe Ca ------ Original Message ------ From: arnold140@verizon.net To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sent: 12/31/2014 7:55:47 AM Subject: [pbs] Treasurer's notes. >The next edition of the Bulb Garden is in production. All members paid >through the end of 2014 will be mailed a copy. > >Please renew your 2015 dues by going to the PBS site >http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/membership.html > >You can indicate that's it's a renewal in the note section on the >PayPal page or send in a check to the address below and also indicate >it's a renewal. > >All BX arrears should be cleared as we go forward to the New Year. > >If you are unsure if you have a balance please email me at this address >and I'll check the records. > >Again, Happy New Year to all. > > >PBS c/o >Arnold Trachtenberg >140 Lakeview Avenue >Leonia, New Jersey 07605 >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki