From ramato2210@gmail.com Sun, 01 Jun 2014 03:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: romain amato Subject: Viruses on ebay Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 11:53:35 +0200 Hello, I write this mail to alert about a seller on ebay. I bought him many bulbs of haemanthus, ammocharis last year, and they are quasi all virused. During the first season of growth I 've eliminated two Haemanthus, and this year (second season) mostly of the bulbs show infection signs. Hopefully my other bulbs don't show these signs. Last year I wrote him a message he didn't answered. I hope the seeds I bought from him won't be contaminated. This seller is selling now, he has always a long list of flowering size bulbs and mostly amaryllids, he is located in south africa. I beleive he grows his bulbs in common beds. By respect I won't give clearly his name, but one must be careful when buying by this seller one can easily find. Regards Romain From scottandben@westwind.fsnet.co.uk Sun, 01 Jun 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <13047269.12231401625263128.JavaMail.www@wwinf3704> From: JANET MILLER Subject: hyacinth seeds Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 14:21:03 +0200 (CEST) I have dozens of seedpods on my hyacinths. I planted lots of blue and white ones in containers in the garden and the flowers were magnificent. It is easy to see which pods are blue and which are white. Earlier today, I pressed one and the seeds are easily visible and look ready to set. Does anyone have any advice? Janet Miller From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sun, 01 Jun 2014 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: hyacinth seeds Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2014 11:29:24 -0700 Janet asked >I have dozens of seedpods on my hyacinths. I planted lots of blue >and white ones in containers in the garden and the flowers were >magnificent. It is easy to see which pods are blue and which are >white. Earlier today, I pressed one and the seeds are easily visible >and look ready to set. Does anyone have any advice? Janet Miller If you want to plant the seeds, you can do so once the capsules (pods) are starting to open on their own and the seeds are hard and dark. However, it will take about four years to obtain flowering plants, and they will probably not look much like those of the commercial bulbs you apparently purchased. If you liked the results from your Dutch bulbs, you would be better off just to buy some more. They are select varieties grown and stored under carefully controlled conditions to produce mass flowering their first year. Depending on your climate and cultural conditions, flowering in future years may decline in size, though the bulbs may also increase. Hyacinth bulbs that have been grown in containers can be planted in the garden once the foliage has withered, preferably somewhere that doesn't get much water in summer. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Sun, 01 Jun 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Australian Crinums Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2014 19:10:05 -0400 Hi folks, I am still looking for Australian Crinum seeds, if anyone could help. Thank you From john@floralarchitecture.com Mon, 02 Jun 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1401757194.64463.YahooMailNeo@web141602.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Floral Architecture Subject: SANBI Red List Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2014 17:59:54 -0700 (PDT) Thought I would share: Threatened Species Programme | SANBI Red List of South African Plants Threatened Species Programme | SANBI Red List of Sou... In one of the continent's largest collaborative conservation projects to date, South Africa has become the first megadiverse country to fully assess the status of i... View on redlist.sanbi.org Preview by Yahoo   John Ingram in Oxnard, CA, between Santa Barbara and L.A. www.floralarchitecture.com "Your Clivia Connection" New number >>> 805.914.9505 (cell, west coast time, please call accordingly. Thank you) From brian.whyer@btinternet.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1401790374.74986.YahooMailNeo@web186103.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> From: Brian Whyer Subject: Cammasia - moving Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 11:12:54 +0100 (BST) I want to move some Cammasia from one garden to another. They are mainly, but not entirely, the clone named Electra, which I think is sterile so no seed to consider. The leaves are browning back well, but don't know what is happening underground just now. Is it too soon to lift them. The various others that have seed poda are still green, (the pods) but dying back too. I find Electra increases quite well with 1 of the clumps having 5 flowers this year after 2 seasons in good soil. Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 From richrd@nas.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7856FAB4-771B-425E-AFF9-8A701B0D809C@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: Cammasia - moving Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 05:46:45 -0700 Seems early to move Camas. Our pods are still green too. July would be better timing. Rich H Bellingham, Wa. On Jun 3, 2014, at 3:12 AM, Brian Whyer wrote: > I want to move some Cammasia from one garden to another. They are mainly, but not entirely, the clone named Electra, which I think is sterile so no seed to consider. The leaves are browning back well, but don't know what is happening underground just now. Is it too soon to lift them. The various others that have seed poda are still green, (the pods) but dying back too. > I find Electra increases quite well with 1 of the clumps having 5 flowers this year after 2 seasons in good soil. > Brian Whyer, Buckinghamshire, England, zone ~8 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From keshabcp@gmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 08:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Keshab C. Pradhan" Subject: BX 362 CLOSED Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 20:18:15 +0530 Thanks Dell. A package of 3 seeds of Haemanthus pauculifolius did reach in good condition. The amount of US$9.16 has been credited in Paypal PBS account. Regards, Keshab On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 4:46 PM, ds429 wrote: > Packages should go out in a week. > > Enjoy, > Dell > > Dell Sherk, PBS BX > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <1401808945.29936.YahooMailNeo@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:22:25 -0700 (PDT) My 7-year old Boophones are sending up their 2nd year of blooms now ... so far, 16 buds or blooms and hoping for more. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14358219253/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14151365369/in/photostream/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California From tylus.seklos@gmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jude Haverington Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 11:23:34 -0400 That's capital, man! On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 11:22 AM, Ken wrote: > My 7-year old Boophones are sending up their 2nd year of blooms now ... so > far, 16 buds or blooms and hoping for more. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14358219253/in/photostream/ > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14151365369/in/photostream/ > > Ken Blackford > San Diego, California > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From 64kkmjr@gmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 08:26:10 -0700 Very nice Ken. How about a shot of all 16? Karl On Jun 3, 2014 8:22 AM, "Ken" wrote: > My 7-year old Boophones are sending up their 2nd year of blooms now ... so > far, 16 buds or blooms and hoping for more. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14358219253/in/photostream/ > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14151365369/in/photostream/ > > Ken Blackford > San Diego, California > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From sujithart@gmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: Sujit Hart Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 10:36:15 -0500 Ken, That is awesome. Have you shared some seeds from this hybrid before. I think I can wait for 7 years for the bloom but 15 maybe a bit tough for me. One never knows one's shelf life. Suchit Hart Houston On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Ken wrote: > My 7-year old Boophones are sending up their 2nd year of blooms now ... so > far, 16 buds or blooms and hoping for more. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14358219253/in/photostream/ > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14151365369/in/photostream/ > > Ken Blackford > San Diego, California > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <002f01cf7f45$e7ce4640$b76ad2c0$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 12:07:21 -0400 Very nice -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2014 11:22 AM To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Subject: [pbs] Boophone disticha bloom season has begun My 7-year old Boophones are sending up their 2nd year of blooms now ... so far, 16 buds or blooms and hoping for more. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14358219253/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14151365369/in/photostream/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California From teck11@embarqmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 09:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <003001cf7f46$791548b0$6b3fda10$@embarqmail.com> From: "Tim Eck" Subject: hippeastrum nelsonii Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 12:11:12 -0400 Any information on culture of H. nelsonii would be greatly appreciated - mine are smaller each year. Thanks Tim From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue, 03 Jun 2014 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1401814557.4413.YahooMailNeo@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 09:55:57 -0700 (PDT) I've posted a few more shots.  Most are still generally early in the bud stage.  I don't believe I shared any seeds with the PBS from these hybrids last year ... but I am growing on a few hundred seedlings from 2013 seed.  I can share 2014 seed with PBS, if there is interest ... but there is no telling whether offspring will retain the traits of the hybrids, ie, their apparent hybrid vigor and nearly evergreen foliage. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/ Ken Blackford, San Diego, California  USDA zone 10 From sujithart@gmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Sujit Hart Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 15:27:50 -0500 Will you consider selling the Boophones seedlings? Suchit Houston On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 11:55 AM, Ken wrote: > I've posted a few more shots. Most are still generally early in the bud > stage. I don't believe I shared any seeds with the PBS from these hybrids > last year ... but I am growing on a few hundred seedlings from 2013 seed. > I can share 2014 seed with PBS, if there is interest ... but there is no > telling whether offspring will retain the traits of the hybrids, ie, their > apparent hybrid vigor and nearly evergreen foliage. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/ > > Ken Blackford, > San Diego, California USDA zone 10 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Tue, 03 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2014 13:39:36 -0700 Greetings, FYI: I'll be sending a substantial number of Boophone disticha seeds to the PBX in next week so anyone who's itching can likely get themselves a starter batch... -| > I've posted a few more shots. Most are still generally early in the bud > > stage. I don't believe I shared any seeds with the PBS from these hybrids > > last year ... but I am growing on a few hundred seedlings from 2013 seed. > > I can share 2014 seed with PBS, if there is interest ... but there is no > > telling whether offspring will retain the traits of the hybrids, ie, their > > apparent hybrid vigor and nearly evergreen foliage. From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Wed, 04 Jun 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <3A0C4812-B9F5-4A82-886E-DFE0804A5986@yahoo.com> From: Tsuh Yang Chen via pbs Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 08:32:51 -0400 awesome! but why do you say hybrid? tsuh yang From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 04 Jun 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: PBS website contact:Permission to use photos by Whyer, Fenwick, and Harvie Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2014 09:32:33 -0700 Hello, The following inquiry was received via the PBS website. Since the photographers aren't currently on our membership database, I can't forward it to them, but I hope Brian Whyer, David Fenwick, and Andrew Harvie will catch this message (or be informed of it) and reply directly to the South African conservation officer who is asking permission to use their photos. >To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:Permission to use photos >Reply-To: Dineo Dibakwane >From: Apache >X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >X-ELNK-AV: 0 >X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Dear Jane, I >hope this find you well! I am an Ex situ Conservation Officer at >South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) and writing an >article on Eucomis humilis. I would like to ask permission from >Brian Wheyer, David Fenwick and Andrew Harvie to use their Eucomis >photographs in my article. Kind regards, Dineo -- Pacific Bulb >Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From markemazer@gmail.com Wed, 04 Jun 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: PBS website contact:Permission to use photos by Whyer, Fenwick, and Harvie Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 12:56:26 -0400 davidfenwicksnr@googlemail.com On Wed, Jun 4, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Jane McGary wrote: > Hello, > The following inquiry was received via the PBS website. Since the > photographers aren't currently on our membership database, I can't forward > it to them, but I hope Brian Whyer, David Fenwick, and Andrew Harvie will > catch this message (or be informed of it) and reply directly to the South > African conservation officer who is asking permission to use their photos. > > > To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >> Subject: PBS website contact:Permission to use photos >> Reply-To: Dineo Dibakwane >> From: Apache >> X-ELNK-Received-Info: spv=0; >> X-ELNK-AV: 0 >> X-ELNK-Info: sbv=0; sbrc=.0; sbf=0b; sbw=000; >> >> This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. Dear Jane, I hope >> this find you well! I am an Ex situ Conservation Officer at South African >> National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) and writing an article on Eucomis >> humilis. I would like to ask permission from Brian Wheyer, David Fenwick >> and Andrew Harvie to use their Eucomis photographs in my article. Kind >> regards, Dineo -- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: >> website@pacificbulbsociety.org >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From leo@possi.org Wed, 04 Jun 2014 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <97bb9735efaf1eb083f88dc70ebd0c78.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Boophone disticha bloom season has begun Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2014 12:07:10 -0700 (PDT) > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy Thank you for the beautiful photos! They make me want to grow bulbs. Leo From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Thu, 05 Jun 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 22:11:19 +0200 Dear All, I'd like to get some cultural tips on the above mentioned species. With F. imperialis i had no luck keeping them longer than 1-2 years, they flower well the first year if planted early as possible, but eventually they die out. They just not emerging next year. When i dud up the place the bulbs disappear. With F. persica the bulbs grow for many years, but even with a well sized bulb they send up shoots with aborted buds, but in the first year they flower well, so i think the bulb needs a special treatment not to abort the buds. Do they need a special soil? Thank you. Regards, Janos Z5a, Hungary From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 05 Jun 2014 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 17:18:36 -0700 Janos wrote, With F. imperialis i had no luck keeping them longer than 1-2 years, they >flower well the first year if planted early as possible, but eventually >they die out. They just not emerging next year. When i dud up the place the >bulbs disappear. >With F. persica the bulbs grow for many years, but even with a well sized >bulb they send up shoots with aborted buds, but in the first year they >flower well, so i think the bulb needs a special treatment not to abort the >buds. >Do they need a special soil? Both these species need well-drained soil, the kind you would use in a rock (alpine) garden. They should be as dry as possible in summer. The bulbs you buy have been dug after their growth period and stored in special temperature controlled places in the Netherlands, and that is why they flower well the first year. Also, the treatment they receive there can suppress virus infections, but once they come into your garden, any viruses that are present can increase, attack and even kill the plant. The aborted buds are, I think, caused by temperature variation. I also see this on Fritillaria persica some years, but the next year they may have good flowers. F. persica is a widespread species and so some forms are more tolerant of extremes of cold or heat than others are. The bulbs sold by the Dutch as 'Adiyaman' are sometimes similar to that clone with large purple flowers, but sometimes quite different, for instance with small brown flowers. The one sold as 'Ivory Bells' is a whitish form; wild-collected seed I got from an Archibald expedition to western Iran produced about a dozen plants of this color. Because I believed the Fritillaria imperialis bulbs I bought were infected with viruses, I decided to grow my own from seed, and this has been quite successful, but so far I have them under cover in my bulb house ("Mediterranean house"), where they experience colder temperatures than they would in nature but are protected from excess moisture. All the F. persica plants I now have are also grown here from seed. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From penstemon@Q.com Thu, 05 Jun 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2014 19:56:03 -0600 >Do they need a special soil? Both species grow quite well in my garden, in clay soil. My average annual precipitation is about 30 cm, mostly occurring from March to July. The clay soil prevents rain from penetrating too deeply; the bulbs are planted about 15 cm deep. The only time of the year when moisture penetrates that deeply is in late winter and early spring, from melting snow. I suspect that my climate is similar to that of the bulb's native habitat, though, of course, worse. It's fairly common for Fritillaria persica to abort buds, if there is cold weather just as the buds are being formed. One recommendation for preventing the bulbs of F. imperialis from getting too wet is to plant them at a 45 degree angle, so that water does not remain in the hole left by last year's flower stalk. I can't imagine the soil ever getting that wet in my garden, but I suppose in does in other gardens. I discovered, this past March, while scratching in the soil near where the F. imperialis grow, that even though the foliage had not emerged, I could smell the bulbs. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA Zone 6, I guess. From arnold140@verizon.net Thu, 05 Jun 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <25198652.152510.1402020347898.JavaMail.root@vznit170190> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Fritillaria imperialis Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2014 21:05:47 -0500 (CDT) My success with F. imperialis is growing it under a Russian Medlar tree. It has been there for twenty years and flowers every third or fourth year. I believe the soil is kept dry by the tree roots. Other places I have tried it have been a failure. Jane has got it. Needs to be dry in the summer. Arnold New Jersey From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 00:17:07 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 07:48:48 +0100 They are like rich alkaline soil. I achieve flowering in acid soils by heavy feeding and lots of lime. I associate buds aborting with drought in spring. These bulbs will desiccate if stored in a dry atmosphere out of the ground- to say that "they should be as dry as possible" in summer is advice to be taken with caution. Peter (UK) Do they need a special soil? >> > > From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 06 Jun 2014 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <5391A4C4.50701@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 12:23:48 +0100 Hi, On 06/06/2014 02:56, penstemon wrote: > One recommendation for preventing the bulbs of F. imperialis from > getting too wet is to plant them at a 45 degree angle, so that water > does not remain in the hole left by last year's flower stalk. I can't Hmm. See: http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/AsianFritillariaTwo#imperialis where it says: "Some people say bulbs should be planted on their side, because of the large hole in them which may accumulate water. Others retort that the hole goes all the way through the bulb and so drains. Photos 1-4 are of commercially supplied bulbs of 'Garland Star' and show the hole, the bottom of the bulb and water being retained. At first sight this disproves the idea of a hole all the way through the bulb. However often bulbs are sold with part of the old stem in place blocking the hole. Photo 5 from Laurence Hill shows the hole in a bulb of 'Lutea'. Since Fritillaria bulbs replace themselves every year, their original orientation in the ground will be lost anyway." -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 09:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:47:18 +0200 Thank you all for the replies! What I will do is to plant them in a very sharply drained soil, and water them before and after flowering and when plants turn yellow i stop watering. In my new place i have sand with nearly no humus (0,5%) and because in summer we don't have much rain i will keep them in the ground. Janos From totototo@telus.net Fri, 06 Jun 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <53918B6D.5833.1A7F@localhost> From: "Rodger Whitlock" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 09:35:41 -0700 On 5 Jun 2014, at 22:11, J. Agoston wrote: > With F. imperialis i had no luck keeping them longer than 1-2 years... A professional horticulturist once told me that F. imperialis needs extra potassium. But before doing that, I would find climatic records for your location and for a location where F. i. is known to thrive - probably in Iran - and compare the two. It may be that the pattern of weather with you differs too much from that in F.i.'s native haunts. I have a problem that is analogous: Japanese plants fail in my garden because (I believe) the annual pattern of rainfall is exactly opposite from that in Japan. We have dry summers and wet winters, the winter wet aggravated by poor subsurface drainage in my garden. Japan has wet summers and dry winters. If a Japanese native doesn't desiccate to nothingness in summer, it rots away during the winter. Such plants can be grown in pots if you remember to store them under cover during the winter. -- Rodger Whitlock Victoria, British Columbia, Canada Z. 7-8, cool Mediterranean climate From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 06 Jun 2014 10:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 10:02:22 -0700 An older post was quoted in part as follows: "Since Fritillaria bulbs replace themselves every year, their original orientation in the ground will be lost anyway." This is absolutely not true. Fritillaria bulbs are true bulbs and are not annually renewed. They either add more and larger scales, as a Lilium bulb does, or simply increase the size of the original scales. F. imperialis and F. persica are of the latter type, which can produce offsets as well, though these two species don't do so every year. The bulb enlarges in successive years until it reaches its maximum size for the species and the environmental conditions. In regard to orientation in the ground, this can change as the bulb moves deeper in the soil. This can be achieved either by contractile roots (you can observe them in the dormant state, when the withered annual roots appear accordion-like), or by the form of the new scales, which extend downward and have a "hook" or "anchor" bit at the base. When I have many seedling Fritillaria bulbs or the "rice grain" bulblets produced by some species, I don't bother to try to orient them correctly in planting; they orient themselves through root action. The young bulbs begin to show their top and bottom clearly to the unaided eye when they are two years old, though if you look very carefully you can see it the first year. I suggested to Janos that he use a gritty soil for his bulbs because I assume he lives where there is precipitation through most of the year. Bob Nold finds that his plants do well in clay, but notes that not much moisture penetrates to the depth of the bulbs (he lives near Denver, Colorado). I live in the maritime Pacific Northwest, where summers are dry, but the rainy season lasts too long (October to June) for some bulbs from more arid climates. When I had a property with very well drained soil, I could grow F. persica in the open, but now I am gardening on clay and probably it would not do well except in a raised bed of gritty soil. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From penstemon@Q.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: "penstemon" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 13:50:00 -0600 When I had a property with very well drained soil, I could grow F. persica in the open, but now I am gardening on clay and probably it would not do well except in a raised bed of gritty soil. I uploaded a couple of pictures of the foliage of both species as it appears right now, which may give an idea of the garden conditions. http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/paridevita/library/?sort=3&page=1 (ignore the dog) Most of the green things in both pictures are weeds. The imperialis are growing under Forestiera neomexicana, so this area is extremely dry except in spring when the snow melts. These bulbs are growing in the native soil, which is decomposed sandstone, but the F. persica are growing in clay. Bob Nold, Denver, Colorado, USA Zone 6 From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Japans climate Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 21:51:58 +0100 I think that this will depend on which part of Japan the plants come from. I understand that not all of Japan has a dry winter. Peter (UK) On 6 June 2014 17:35, Rodger Whitlock wrote: > : Japanese plants fail in my garden because > (I believe) the annual pattern of rainfall is exactly opposite from that in > Japan. We have dry summers and wet winters, the winter wet aggravated by > poor > subsurface drainage in my garden. Japan has wet summers and dry winters. > If a > Japanese native doesn't desiccate to nothingness in summer, it rots away > during > the winter. > From petersirises@gmail.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: True bulbs, was Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 22:04:33 +0100 I agree with Jane that any Fritillaria bulbs which I have handled whilst in growth have seemed permanent Are all true bulbs "not annually renewed" I am thinking of certain Iris species.... but, thinking of their structure, perhaps Junos are not quite true bulbs?or is it that their 'basal plate' is permanent? What about the Hyacinth family...? their bulbs wither and regrow according to their phase of growth. Peter (UK) On 6 June 2014 18:02, Jane McGary wrote: > An older post was quoted in part as follows: > > "Since Fritillaria bulbs replace themselves every year, their original > orientation in the ground will be lost anyway." > > This is absolutely not true. Fritillaria bulbs are true bulbs and are not > annually renewed. > From david@pilling.demon.co.uk Fri, 06 Jun 2014 15:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5392353D.8040702@pilling.demon.co.uk> From: David Pilling Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 22:40:13 +0100 Hi, On 06/06/2014 18:02, Jane McGary wrote: > An older post was quoted in part as follows: > "Since Fritillaria bulbs replace themselves every year, their original > orientation in the ground will be lost anyway." > > This is absolutely not true. Fritillaria bulbs are true bulbs and are > not annually renewed. Not everyone agrees. I quote (Ian Young): "Classic bulbs such as Narcissus are perennial adding extra layers each year all fritillaria bulbs are annuals, replacing themselves completely each year with a new one that forms at the base of the growing stem." -- David Pilling www.davidpilling.com From wpoulsen@pacbell.net Fri, 06 Jun 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <7FB87A6F-AC19-484D-94C1-96436AE5D2C2@pacbell.net> From: Lee Poulsen Subject: Japans climate Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 15:31:05 -0700 The southeastern Mata Atlantica region of Brazil also has a wet summer, dry winter pattern, but this doesn't mean that the ground is dry in either area. It just means that there is dramatically less rainfall during the winter. It's much cooler, and the sun is lower in the sky with shorter days, so as far as I saw in either location, the ground wasn't dry during the winter. It was nothing like what the ground looks like here in southern California during our rainless summer months. --Lee On Jun 6, 2014, at 1:51 PM, Peter Taggart wrote: > I think that this will depend on which part of Japan the plants come from. > I understand that not all of Japan has a dry winter. > Peter > (UK) > > > On 6 June 2014 17:35, Rodger Whitlock wrote: > >> : Japanese plants fail in my garden because >> (I believe) the annual pattern of rainfall is exactly opposite from that in >> Japan. We have dry summers and wet winters, the winter wet aggravated by >> poor >> subsurface drainage in my garden. Japan has wet summers and dry winters. >> If a >> Japanese native doesn't desiccate to nothingness in summer, it rots away >> during >> the winter. >> > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <06FC889EE32E41EDBDD58711B1138300@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 17:03:16 -0600 > This is absolutely not true. Fritillaria bulbs are true bulbs and are > not annually renewed. >Not everyone agrees. >I quote (Ian Young): >"Classic bulbs such as Narcissus are perennial adding extra layers each >year all fritillaria bulbs are annuals, replacing themselves completely >each year with a new one that forms at the base of the growing stem." I wonder if it depends on the species. In the interests of furthering human knowledge, I dug up one of the imperialis bulbs. http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/paridevita/media/IMG_0268_edited-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/paridevita/media/IMG_0269_edited-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 It looks to me like this is a new bulb. There are some Californian frits in the garden here (F. purdyi, F. biflora), but their exact location is now unknown (the labels were destroyed by hail). I could dig them up next year, maybe. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA z6 From janemcgary@earthlink.net Fri, 06 Jun 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2014 16:23:13 -0700 Ian Young certainly knows more about bulbs than I do, but if I happen to lift one of my fritillarias while it is in growth, there is a bulb of the usual size present. Laurence Hill's photos of entire fritillaria plants, in flower, also show the bulbs. I wonder if this characteristic varies among the different subgenera? For instance, subgenus Liliorrhiza (the western American species) may add new scales attached loosely to the basal plate (e.g., Fritillaria biflora and F. striata) or may maintain a slowly enlarging disc-shaped bulb with numerous loosely attached "rice grain" offsets (the F. affinis group). In both cases the bulb is present at any time in the growth cycle. In some other subgenera, I think the bulb may diminish in size during flowering, but it doesn't disappear. Nor do fritillarias produce "dropper" bulbs at the base of the stem as tulips do, although some of the American species such as F. striata will "drop" their hooked scales down early in the plant's life. Perhaps the disconnect between our observations has to do with the distinction between "layers" (as on a Narcissus or Allium) and "scales," as on a Fritillaria or Lilium? It is true that Fritillaria bulbs do not have completely enveloping layers like an onion or many of the amaryllids. I can't defend my position with photos at the moment since all the frits are dormant or nearly so, but I can measure some bulbs this summer and, if I have enough of the species, I'm willing to lift them in flower and see how different the bulb size is, if at all. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA >I quote (Ian Young): > >"Classic bulbs such as Narcissus are perennial adding extra layers >each year all fritillaria bulbs are annuals, replacing themselves >completely each year with a new one that forms at the base of the >growing stem." From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Fri, 06 Jun 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402097645.37509.YahooMailNeo@web121302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 16:34:05 -0700 (PDT) Any discussion of bulbs and bulb anatomy is hampered by the lack of agreement among those conducting the discussion about what the term bulb really means. For my purposes in what follows, a bulb is a modular mass made up of a growth bud surrounded by fleshy storage tissue, both of these connected to what is often called the basal plate. I’m not going to use the term “basal plate” but instead I’ll call it the “perennial stem” of the plant. With that in mind, bulbs have two sets of stems: the annual stems which emerge from the ground and on which any  leaves, flowers and seeds formed by the plant develop. In those bulbs which produce roots from the annual stem (many lilies do this) it helps to distinguish between the annual roots and the perennial roots. The annual roots proliferate in whatever top soil or mulch is present; the perennial roots are often deep delving and in my experience much larger.   Now let’s go back to the basic definition of “bulb”, because there is a problem implied in that definition. The definition talks about a single bud surrounded by fleshy storage tissue. But all mature bulbs contain multiple growth buds attached to the perennial stem: these exist in various stages of development and to the extent that they develop with their own surrounding fleshy storage tissue they are potential bulbs. But, because they are still intimately connected to the basal plant of the oldest bud (the one which flowers), they are not modular. They are, so-to-speak, only potential bulbs. At this point, we might  start a discussion about whether these are properly called bulbs or something else. Instead, let’s look at it this way: the only time in the life of a bulbous plant when it consists of only one growth bud and surrounding tissue is shortly after germination from seed. Surely the time when additional growth buds are added varies, but the addition of those additional growth buds is one of the most important, urgent things to happen in the life of a bulbous plant. If you follow me here, and accept the above, then it becomes apparent that our definition of bulb has to allow for the fact that bulbs, except in the very earliest phases of their existence, always contain more than one vegetative growth bud. In that sense, the bulb you hold in your hand is a compound structure with the potential over time to develop multiple annual stems as the perennial stem grows and expands. In some bulbs, such as tulips, the bulbs you dig in June are not the bulbs you planted in September. They are new bulbs, most of the matter of the bulb you planted in September has been used by the plant to produce a flowering stem; most but not all. Part of it survives long enough to build the perennial stems of the offset bulbs. The perennial stem of the tulip is the only part which survives from year to year. Imagine an oak tree in winter. At the tip of each branch there is a bud for vegetative growth, protected in the case of the oak by dry, scaly bracts. Now imagine that all of the oak trunk and branch work disappear, all those now detached oak buds are homologous to the bulbs of a tulip clone after many years of growth. In other bulbs, the fleshy scales seem to persist from year to year. Is the resulting mass actually a single bulb? In a sense yes, in a sense no. Yes, because it seems to form a coherent mass – and our common sense certainly urges this usage. But no in another important sense: the bud which began it all has long since disappeared and been replaced by a succession of vegetative growth buds on the perennial stem. Those old, accumulated fleshy scales no longer surround a unique bud, they simply persist with no purpose other than food storage. That’s one reason why we don’t consider them to be a cluster of bulbs: the fleshy scales are there but they do not surround a unique bud for vegetative growth.  And of course, the whole mass still looks like a single bulb to us. Now to the Fritillaria question which prompted this email. When we speak of bulbs, we often make a distinction between tunicated bulbs and non-tunicated bulbs. If you give consideration to the origin of the tunic, it becomes apparent that the degree of tunication varies a lot among bulbs. The tunic is what remains of the outermost fleshy scales of the bulb. This is easily seen in the kitchen when you peel an onion, especially one where the outermost scales layers are becoming soft and mushy. In nature, these would dry into the papery layer we call onion skin.  Tulips have a heavy tunic, daffodils have a flimsy one. Bulbs which mature under damp conditions are apt to have thin or defective tunics. Bulbs which mature under dry conditions are more apt to have discrete undamaged tunics. Fritillaries are usually placed among the non-tunicated bulbs. However, if you examine newly matured bulbs of Fritillaria imperialis and F.  persica, you will usually be able to find patches of tissue thin tunic material. This is more easily seen in F. persica than in F. imperialis, but both species show this. In the culinary onion, you can see that the onion skin is formed when the outermost layers of the onion dry out. Those layers are the scales of the onion bulb. If the sparse tunic material seen on Fritillaria imeprialis and F. persica  is formed the same way, then that indicates to me that bulb scales have dried out to form it.  So , I’m in the camp which doubts that the scales seen in purchased bulbs continue to grow year after year to form larger and larger scales. However, there are instances of bulbs which do retain large scales indefinitely. In some lilies, such as Lilium superbum, the bulbs produce networks of rhizomes with the newest bulbs at the periphery. The oldest bulbs remain connected to the network, but as far as I know do not sprout again (but they can be broken up and the scales will form new plants).  Nor do they increase in size. So, if those big frits are keeping big scales from year to year, they are not the only liliaceous plants to do so. Here’s a challenge for the group: get some nice new bulbs of the big frits and then either stick sterilized pins into the fleshy scales or stain the scales in some way. At digging time the next year, see where the pins or colored scale matter  end up: are they still firmly inserted in a scale or part of a healthy bulb, or are they loose in the soil outside the mass of the bulb?  That should answer this question about the persistence of big scales in these bulbs.   Jim McKenney On Friday, June 6, 2014 7:24 PM, Jane McGary wrote: Ian Young certainly knows more about bulbs than I do, but if I happen to lift one of my fritillarias while it is in growth, there is a bulb of the usual size present. Laurence Hill's photos of entire fritillaria plants, in flower, also show the bulbs. I wonder if this characteristic varies among the different subgenera? For instance, subgenus Liliorrhiza (the western American species) may add new scales attached loosely to the basal plate (e.g., Fritillaria biflora and F. striata) or may maintain a slowly enlarging disc-shaped bulb with numerous loosely attached "rice grain" offsets (the F. affinis group). In both cases the bulb is present at any time in the growth cycle. In some other subgenera, I think the bulb may diminish in size during flowering, but it doesn't disappear. Nor do fritillarias produce "dropper" bulbs at the base of the stem as tulips do, although some of the American species such as F. striata will "drop" their hooked scales down early in the plant's life. Perhaps the disconnect between our observations has to do with the distinction between "layers" (as on a Narcissus or Allium) and "scales," as on a Fritillaria or Lilium? It is true that Fritillaria bulbs do not have completely enveloping layers like an onion or many of the amaryllids. I can't defend my position with photos at the moment since all the frits are dormant or nearly so, but I can measure some bulbs this summer and, if I have enough of the species, I'm willing to lift them in flower and see how different the bulb size is, if at all. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA >I quote (Ian Young): > >"Classic bulbs such as Narcissus are perennial adding extra layers >each year all fritillaria bulbs are annuals, replacing themselves >completely each year with a new one that forms at the base of the >growing stem." _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From penstemon@Q.com Fri, 06 Jun 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <763F3CF2574747CFA6A03E985A279697@bobPC> From: "penstemon" Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 18:00:26 -0600 Nor do fritillarias produce "dropper" bulbs at the base of the stem as tulips do, Oh, but they do. At least Frit. imperialis does. Look closely at the picture. http://s1265.photobucket.com/user/paridevita/media/IMG_0268_edited-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 Little white bulbs visible at the base of the stem. Bob Nold Denver, Colorado, USA Z6 From fierycloud2002@yahoo.com.tw Fri, 06 Jun 2014 21:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1402111911.54682.YahooMailBasic@web75301.mail.tw1.yahoo.com> From: Fierycloud Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 11:31:51 +0800 (CST) Hello: I have also tried to search domestic flower bulbs from Japan.(Because the fee of transportation is getting more and more expensive. ) And I found that there are also commercial spring flower bulbs production in northern west Japan. Where have winter monsoon(northern west wind) from sea of japan and summer monsoon(Southern east wind) from inner land mountains. (In the pacific side, the summer monsoon(Southern east wind) is from pacific ocean, while winter monsoon(northern west wind) is from inner land mountain.) And there are also Plum rain and typhoon which affect whole japan from spring to autumn. TOYAMA http://www.tba.or.jp/ NIIGATA http://www.nba-niigata.or.jp/ Su-Hong-Ciao Taiwan From agoston.janos123@gmail.com Sat, 07 Jun 2014 07:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "J. Agoston" Subject: bulb types, was fritillaria Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 16:12:17 +0200 So, thank you for all the replies! In my first year of university (2002) the same questions have arose in me. For bulb I consider a plant which has at least one scale which is for water and nutrient storage, and this scale surrounds the bud. Examples: Allium rosenbachianum, A. giganteum, A. sativum, A. ursinum. All of them has only one scale. (I have pictures somewhere... in the mass of 100 000+ pictures.) All of these scales are ment to survive one cycle. At the end the new vegetative bud will grow another scale with at least one other vegetative bud. Bulbs with many scales, but only for one cycle: The have more than one scale, and there is one secondary bud at the bottom of each scale, plus a big vegetative bud. The bud will make the new fleshy scales while the plant is growing with a new bud, which will grow in the next cycle. The rest of the scales will shrivel and decompose or make the tunic. E.g.:Rest of Allium species, Tulips, Iris × hollandica, Fritillaria, Leucocoryne, etc. This means you have a new bulb every year. In this regards Fritillaria is more close to Tulipa then to Lilium. And for Fritillaria I have a picture taken this year to rove it, but still i have to find it :/ Bulbs with many scales and the scales exists more than one year: The outer scales shrivel, decompose or make the tunic, the inner scales get further from the central bud each year. The most demonstrative examples are the Amaryllidaceae e.g. Hippeastrum, Galanthus, Narcissus and Hyacinthus. Now for young Hyacinthus and Lilium bulbs if the growing season is optimal the whole bulb can be renewd, mostly because the inner bulb grows so big thath the outer scales can't keep up with the growing, and instead of expanding they split open and transport their stored food to the newly forming scales. But under normal conditions a mature bulb keeps the scales for 2 or more years. If you cut a bulb vertically and lucky enough you can see the old stems of former years. Better yet, start peeling a Lilium bulb (from the Asiatic, Trumpet or Oriental group) and after a few layers you can see the old stem of the bulb. Of course not all bulbs can be put into these groups, there are special ones, like Lilium pardalinum, which grows a new bulb each year, and still the old scales can be seen as Jim said with L. superbum. Here you can see a cut bulb of hyacinthus, the captions are in Hungarian :/ https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JmHAvdBGTcM/S3RH4wZncKI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/fMnhX80yUEw/s434/Hyacinthus%2520orientalis%2520%2527Amethyst%2527f%25C3%25A9l1.JPG and you can see some pictures of various storage organs in my classification http://www.docstoc.com/docs/150793749/The-organography-of-the-propagating-parts-of-bulbous-plants Regards, Janos Z5a, Hungary _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From ralph.carpenter1@googlemail.com Sat, 07 Jun 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: John Ralph Carpenter Subject: bulb types, was fritillaria Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2014 16:47:24 +0100 Very interesting, Janos.four On Saturday, 7 June 2014, J. Agoston wrote: > So, thank you for all the replies! > > In my first year of university (2002) the same questions have arose in me. > > For bulb I consider a plant which has at least one scale which is for water > and nutrient storage, and this scale surrounds the bud. Examples: Allium > rosenbachianum, A. giganteum, A. sativum, A. ursinum. All of them has only > one scale. (I have pictures somewhere... in the mass of 100 000+ pictures.) > All of these scales are ment to survive one cycle. At the end the new > vegetative bud will grow another scale with at least one other vegetative > bud. > > Bulbs with many scales, but only for one cycle: The have more than one > scale, and there is one secondary bud at the bottom of each scale, plus a > big vegetative bud. The bud will make the new fleshy scales while the plant > is growing with a new bud, which will grow in the next cycle. The rest of > the scales will shrivel and decompose or make the tunic. > E.g.:Rest of Allium species, Tulips, Iris × hollandica, Fritillaria, > Leucocoryne, etc. This means you have a new bulb every year. In this > regards Fritillaria is more close to Tulipa then to Lilium. > And for Fritillaria I have a picture taken this year to rove it, but still > i have to find it :/ > > Bulbs with many scales and the scales exists more than one year: > The outer scales shrivel, decompose or make the tunic, the inner scales get > further from the central bud each year. The most demonstrative examples are > the Amaryllidaceae e.g. Hippeastrum, Galanthus, Narcissus and Hyacinthus. > Now for young Hyacinthus and Lilium bulbs if the growing season is optimal > the whole bulb can be renewd, mostly because the inner bulb grows so big > thath the outer scales can't keep up with the growing, and instead of > expanding they split open and transport their stored food to the newly > forming scales. But under normal conditions a mature bulb keeps the scales > for 2 or more years. > If you cut a bulb vertically and lucky enough you can see the old stems of > former years. Better yet, start peeling a Lilium bulb (from the Asiatic, > Trumpet or Oriental group) and after a few layers you can see the old stem > of the bulb. > Of course not all bulbs can be put into these groups, there are special > ones, like Lilium pardalinum, which grows a new bulb each year, and still > the old scales can be seen as Jim said with L. superbum. > > Here you can see a cut bulb of hyacinthus, the captions are in Hungarian :/ > https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JmHAvdBGTcM/S3RH4wZncKI/AAAAAAAAA4Q/fMnhX80yUEw/s434/Hyacinthus%2520orientalis%2520%2527Amethyst%2527f%25C3%25A9l1.JPG > > and you can see some pictures of various storage organs in my > classification > http://www.docstoc.com/docs/150793749/The-organography-of-the-propagating-parts-of-bulbous-plants > > Regards, > Janos > Z5a, Hungary > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki -- Ralph Carpenter 2 & 3 Stone Cottages Chilmington Green Great Chart Ashford Kent TN23 3DW 01233 637567 _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From youngs.aberdeen@btinternet.com Sat, 07 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <53937FC6.209@btinternet.com> From: Youngs Aberdeen Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2014 22:10:30 +0100 David P. quotes Ian Young. Ian studies all his "bulbs" (sensu latu) very closely, often lifting them at different stages of growth to fully observe and photograph their habits. These photos are often used in his talks and in his weekly Bulb Log. As it happens, there is such a photo in this week's Bulb Log, number 23 of 2014 : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Jun041401876737BULB_LOG_2314.pdf where you can see that not only the frit. bulb but also all the rice grains are renewed. The picture is of Fritillaria camschatcensis. hope this helps...... M.Young From ronmudd1@gmail.com Sun, 08 Jun 2014 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ron Mudd Subject: Fritillaria bulb Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 14:06:10 +0100 This paper answers many questions - http://www.fritillariaicones.com/info/Baranova_Hasson_Hill_2008.pdf From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 08 Jun 2014 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1402260133.35027.YahooMailNeo@web142506.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> From: Sandra de Nijs via pbs Subject: Fritillaria imperialis and persica help Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 13:42:13 -0700 (PDT) Absolutely gorgeous pictures, like the light/dark effect. Thank you, Sandra de Nijs   .............................................. Artist/Designer http://www.sandradenijs.com On Saturday, June 7, 2014 5:10 PM, Youngs Aberdeen wrote: David P. quotes Ian Young. Ian studies all his "bulbs" (sensu latu) very closely, often lifting them at different stages of growth to fully observe and photograph their habits. These photos are often used in his talks and in his weekly Bulb Log. As it happens, there is such a photo in this week's Bulb Log, number 23 of 2014 : http://www.srgc.org.uk/logs/logdir/2014Jun041401876737BULB_LOG_2314.pdf where you can see that not only the frit. bulb but also all the rice grains are renewed. The picture is of Fritillaria camschatcensis. hope this helps...... M.Young From richrd@nas.com Sun, 08 Jun 2014 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <374712CE-B612-44FA-B6AE-A0CE38F759BD@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: Fritillaria bulb Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2014 17:17:01 -0700 Thank you for this translated paper. I am saving for my references. On Jun 8, 2014, at 6:06 AM, Ron Mudd wrote: > This paper answers many questions - > > http://www.fritillariaicones.com/info/Baranova_Hasson_Hill_2008.pdf From klazina1@gmail.com Sun, 08 Jun 2014 23:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <53954A15.4060203@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: photo links Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2014 17:45:57 +1200 I am growing a small white Zephyranthes verecunda. For quite some years now. As it is nothing like my other Z. verecundas, I am curious about where it hails from and if anyone would recognise it. So tried to upload the photos to Flickr. But can make no sense of it how to send without it also showing all the rest of the photos. Uploaded to Google+ but of course lots of people would not be able to see it. It is frustrating. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From hartsentwine.australia@gmail.com Mon, 09 Jun 2014 05:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: steven hart Subject: photo links Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2014 21:26:07 +1000 Hi Ina just go to flikr & open the photo u want to show, then copy the link at the top & paste that into your PBS email.. The link should open the correct photo for u On 9 June 2014 15:45, Ina Crossley wrote: > I am growing a small white Zephyranthes verecunda. For quite some years > now. As it is nothing like my other Z. verecundas, I am curious about > where it hails from and if anyone would recognise it. So tried to upload > the photos to Flickr. But can make no sense of it how to send without it > also showing all the rest of the photos. > > Uploaded to Google+ but of course lots of people would not be able to see > it. It is frustrating. > > Ina > > -- > Ina Crossley > Auckland New Zealand zone 10a > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Steven : ) Esk Queensland Australia Summer Zone 5 Winter Zone 10 From klazina1@gmail.com Mon, 09 Jun 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <539659FB.2020405@gmail.com> From: Ina Crossley Subject: Zephyranthes verecunda query Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2014 13:06:03 +1200 I hope this link works: http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/klaasjeIna/media/Zverecundawhite003_zps81ca8add.jpg.html I have grown this Rainlily for years now. Comparing it with the other 2 Z. verecunda I grow, it is just totally different. Does anyone have any idea where this one possibly hails from, or anything about it. It is small, pure white, flowers in autumn, even sometimes in winter here in the equivalent of Zone 10a, and spring, not much during the summer. Does set seed but not much, which could have something to do with the time of the year. When the bees are around, this one seldom flowers. Ina -- Ina Crossley Auckland New Zealand zone 10a From ksayce@willapabay.org Mon, 09 Jun 2014 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <95B416E7-871D-4E0B-89C7-8D2BD3B4B620@willapabay.org> From: Kathleen Sayce Subject: 1 Crinum bulbiferum, and 2, animals that eat shoots Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2014 19:38:15 -0700 There was a little whining and whimpering going on when I checked plants in my cold frame today. I came back from a weekend at a native plant meeting (lovely time, talking plants for 3 days straight), to find: 1. Crinum bulbiferum is flowering in my cold frame. Should I worry that it will set copious seeds and become a cold frame thug? Or enjoy the tiny flowers and not worry? 2. Something has systematically eaten shoots of and apparently killed Pancratium maritimum, a bulb that was until now growing for about 3 years from seed. I can find no sign of the below ground shoot, and am going to turn the pot out tomorrow in full daylight to see if any part of the bulb survives. Also eaten down were all shoots of Zephyranthes. Most of these are still alive and now trying to resprout. They will need some protection to do so. I live next to a salt marsh, and within 2 miles of a shellfish opening house. Rats are a common pest here in summers, eating bits of clams and oysters. Are they also eating my bulbs? Or is this more likely to be a vole? In any case my solution is going to be either to mesh the cold frame, or individual plants. The size of the mesh wires, and the tightness of the fit of mesh over either the cold frame or pots will be determined by what is eating the shoots. Rats can eat through fine mesh. Voles can squeeze through very small gaps. Any information on likely culprits would be appreciated. Until this week, I've lost only Rhodophialia and Lycoris plants, to the point that I quit growing them and gave all plants away to friends out of the area. But I would dislike giving up on Zephyranthes, and am very annoyed that Pancratium has vanished. Kathleen From voltaire@islandnet.com Wed, 11 Jun 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Diane Whitehead Subject: Japan's climate Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 08:51:03 -0700 From: T O Date: June 10, 2014 Subject: RE: Japan's climate >> : Japanese plants fail in my garden because >> (I believe) the annual pattern of rainfall is exactly opposite from that in >> Japan. Climate alone isn't enough to determine what a plant needs to survive elsewhere in the world. Elevation, latitude, relative location to the ocean, which side of the mountain (for example: east or west side. Take for example Meconopsis betonicifolia, the Himalayan blue poppy. In its native habitat it experiences full sun in scree conditions at high elevation kept relatively dry. When brought to a lowland garden (like my garden in Rogue River, around 1200ft) it requires fast draining soil in partial shade and for the soil to be moist. That's my two cents -Travis Owen From ds429@frontier.com Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <99104.91569.bm@smtp115.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Subject: Pacific Bulb Society BX 363 Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 16:33:21 +0000 Dear All, The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared. If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at mailto:ds429@frontier.com Include "BX 363" in the subject line. Specify the NUMBERS of the items which you would like; do not specify quantities. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money (usually $2.00/share of seeds or $3 - $5/share of bulbs)(cash, check, or Pay Pal to ; no money orders, please) you should send the PBS treasurer. Postage and packaging charges are added. Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website: If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to: Dell Sherk 55 W. High St. Salem, WV 26426 USA Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds. I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER. IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !! ALL SEEDS From Rimmer de Vries: Clivia hybrid, F2 from deep red, tulip-form , large Belgian, 2 - 3 inch wide leaves (Seed pods were very red) Yellow clivia hybrid (Vico yellow x Solomone yellow) open-pollinated (Seed pods were very yellow From Stephen Putman: 3. Hippeastrum reticulatum var. striatifolium 4. Hippeastrum stylosum From Dennis Kramb: 5. Iris versicolor, dark blue with heavy white veining From Karl Church: 6. Moraea gigantea, OP, ex Telos 7. Calochortus weedii, OP 8. Moraea setifolia, OP 9. Freesia laxa, OP 10. Habranthus tubispathus, OP 11. Hippeastrum ‘Orange Sovereign’, OP From Shawn Pollard: 12. Hesperocallis undulata 13. Bursera fagaroides 14. Asclepias albicans 15. Canna sp, small yellow flowers, maybe a few red, in great abundance From Marvin Ellenbecker: 16. Freesia laxa, red and some pure white 17. Veltheimia bracteata, usual form 18. Veltheimia bracteata, smaller European selection with more yellow in the flowers FEW SEEDS 19. Clivia miniata, original plant came from Cecil Houdyshel Nursery, La Verne, CA, in 1957 From Kipp McMichael: 20. Boophane disticha, from pink mother and deep red father Thank you, Rimmer, Stephen, Dennis, Karl, Shawn, Marvin and Kipp !! Sent from Windows Mail _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From msittner@mcn.org Wed, 11 Jun 2014 10:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <20140611165252.345D521838@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Latest BX Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 09:51:33 -0700 Regarding this entry: From Karl Church: 6. Moraea gigantea, OP, ex Telos Should it be Moraea gigandra? The Plant List says Moraea gigantea Klatt is a synonym of Moraea miniata Andrews and if that is what this is, that species is very invasive and not supposed to be sent from state to state in the USA and probably shouldn't be listed in a BX at all. But if it is M. gigandra, that is a very beautiful species with in my experience very short blooming season. Mary Sue From ds429@frontier.com Wed, 11 Jun 2014 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402509945.68172.YahooMailBasic@web121901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: Latest BX Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 11:05:45 -0700 (PDT) Thanks Mary Sue for pointing this out. It appears that Telos only sells Moraea gigandra, so, presumably, that's what it is. Dell -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 6/11/14, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: Subject: [pbs] Latest BX To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Date: Wednesday, June 11, 2014, 9:51 AM Regarding this entry: From Karl Church: 6. Moraea gigantea, OP, ex Telos Should it be Moraea gigandra? The Plant List says Moraea gigantea Klatt is a synonym of Moraea miniata Andrews and if that is what this is, that species is very invasive and not supposed to be sent from state to state in the USA and probably shouldn't be listed in a BX at all. But if it is M. gigandra, that is a very beautiful species with in my experience very short blooming season. Mary Sue _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From kimcmich@hotmail.com Wed, 11 Jun 2014 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Latest BX Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 11:59:19 -0700 Greetings, The Boophone disticha seed I sent is from a summer growing, deciduous form that has happily resided in my front yard in Berkeley for 3 years now, the mother blooming every year. This was the first year for the father who also had deeply red/pink blooms. The father was in a somewhat shadier locale, but otherwise only 10 ft from the mother - so consider that with respect to their differing colors. Apart from mother nature, the yard gets water no more often than every 2-3 weeks, year-round. The bulbs are planted with only the neck of the bulbs exposed in mounded beds of rocky, succulent-friendly soil. -| From: Karl Church <64kkmjr@gmail.com> Subject: Latest BX Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 14:19:46 -0700 Sorry folks, They are definitely M. gigandra. The pot ID tag was badly smeared so I have gone back & checked the invoice which clearly shows them to be Moraea gigandra. Karl On Jun 11, 2014 11:05 AM, "ds429" wrote: > Thanks Mary Sue for pointing this out. It appears that Telos only sells > Moraea gigandra, so, presumably, that's what it is. > > Dell > -------------------------------------------- > On Wed, 6/11/14, Mary Sue Ittner wrote: > > Subject: [pbs] Latest BX > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Date: Wednesday, June 11, 2014, 9:51 AM > > Regarding this entry: > From Karl Church: > 6. Moraea gigantea, OP, ex Telos > > Should it be Moraea gigandra? The Plant List says Moraea > gigantea > Klatt is a synonym of Moraea miniata Andrews and if that is > what this > is, that species is very invasive and not supposed to be > sent from > state to state in the USA and probably shouldn't be listed > in a BX at > all. But if it is M. gigandra, that is a very beautiful > species with > in my experience very short blooming season. > > Mary Sue > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Crinum 'Tulipan' Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 19:28:31 -0500 Does anybody know a source for the crinum 'Tulipan?' Cynthia W Mueller Central Texas Sent from my iPhone From idavide@sbcglobal.net Wed, 11 Jun 2014 18:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402533639.97192.YahooMailNeo@web181506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: David Ehrlich Subject: Crinum 'Tulipan' Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 17:40:39 -0700 (PDT) It's from the Turkish word for turban.  Tulips were named after a mistake -- a foreigner seeing a tulip tucked into the turban of a Turk asked what it was.  The Turk thought he was referring to the turban, but the foreigner thought he was referring to the flower. >________________________________ > From: Cynthia Mueller >To: "pbs@lists.ibiblio.org" >Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 5:28 PM >Subject: [pbs] Crinum 'Tulipan' > > >Does anybody know a source for the crinum 'Tulipan?' > >Cynthia W Mueller >Central Texas > >Sent from my iPhone >_______________________________________________ >pbs mailing list >pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > From ds429@frontier.com Thu, 12 Jun 2014 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402569225.20795.YahooMailBasic@web121905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: ds429 Subject: BX 363 CLOSED Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 03:33:45 -0700 (PDT) Packages should go out in a week or so. I have not yet replied to most orders. Dell From faeden4444@sbcglobal.net Thu, 12 Jun 2014 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <1402591531.35905.YahooMailNeo@web181606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Marilyn Pekasky Subject: Fw: [Fat-Plants] Oregon Plant Sale Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2014 09:45:31 -0700 (PDT) For those of you in the Portland, OR area, this is not to be missed, even though there probably aren't very many bulbs being grown.  Burl's property is only open a few times a year! Marilyn Pekasky ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: "Susan B honeybunny442@yahoo.com [Fat-Plants]" To: Fat Plants Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2014 9:27 AM Subject: [Fat-Plants] Oregon Plant Sale   Rare Plant Research is having a special End of the Season Nursery Sale and Open Garden one day only Saturday, June 21st from 11am to4pm at 11900 S. Criteser Rd., Oregon City 97045. The 14 acre property has extensive gardens in Mediterranean, tropical, succulent and desert boulder garden styles and features old olive trees, three large ponds and a 12th century-inspired stone castle as a backdrop. The newly completed conservatory and wine tasting room will be open. Tour 10 greenhouses full of rare and exotic plants, many of which are available nowhere else in the Pacific Northwest. There are such cool plants as Echeveria, hardy olive trees, cannas, hardy gingers, Agaves, hardy bananas, bromeliads, Yuccas and a host of other rare collector plants. A Simply Elegant catering will be serving a tasty lunch. Our winery Villa Catalana Cellars will be tasting and selling wine in the conservatory. Also, glass artist Mariusz Rynkiewicz from Seattle will be selling and showing his garden glass creations. Burl also has many nice Bursera and Commiphora __._,_.___ ________________________________ Posted by: Susan B ________________________________ Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New Topic • Messages in this topic (1) Visit Your Group • Privacy • Unsubscribe • Terms of Use . __,_._,___ _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From alanidae@gmail.com Fri, 13 Jun 2014 08:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum 'Tulipan' Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 10:20:19 -0400 It's is still around but do to the lack of offsets produced it is really difficult to find any that are actually available and most have waiting list. I settled for seedlings. Alani Davis On Jun 11, 2014 7:33 PM, "Cynthia Mueller" wrote: > Does anybody know a source for the crinum 'Tulipan?' > > Cynthia W Mueller > Central Texas > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From maxwithers@gmail.com Fri, 13 Jun 2014 14:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <5C50339C-67EF-4D0E-BE0B-42CC4CCF81A5@gmail.com> From: Maxwithers Subject: Cyrtanthus cross Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 15:17:55 -0500 The few bulbs I bought to Texas got jumbled in the move, so I'm not sure if this is the Cyrtanthus falcatus x (elatus x montanus) cross I got from Ken Blackford (thanks Ken!) or the C. elatus x montanus F2 cross I made myself, but it's cool that it bloomed either way: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8byIIIK7wx9UEtzT0ppVFB6UGM/edit?usp=docslist_api The leaves are slightly falcate. The plants enjoy the apocalyptic considerably more than I do. Best, Max Withers Austin TX From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 14 Jun 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <2C77AFCC-5B8E-4506-AA58-943A6FA3597A@gmail.com> From: Nicholas Plummer Subject: Cyrtanthus cross Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 09:11:00 -0400 Max, Very nice. I'm impressed by any plant that can take a Texas summer without wilting. I know I can't. Do you think it would be winter hardy in Austin? Nick (Durham, NC) On Jun 13, 2014, at 4:17 PM, Maxwithers wrote: > The few bulbs I bought to Texas got jumbled in the move, so I'm not sure if this is the Cyrtanthus falcatus x (elatus x montanus) cross I got from Ken Blackford (thanks Ken!) or the C. elatus x montanus F2 cross I made myself, but it's cool that it bloomed either way: > > https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8byIIIK7wx9UEtzT0ppVFB6UGM/edit?usp=docslist_api > > The leaves are slightly falcate. The plants enjoy the apocalyptic considerably more than I do. > > Best, > Max Withers > Austin TX > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From giantcoreopsis@gmail.com Sat, 14 Jun 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <3FB8A159-A9CC-431B-A54A-D7E5971C5C7B@gmail.com> From: Giant Coreopsis Subject: Trinity Alps Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 08:27:47 -0700 At the end of this month, I will be spending a week in the Trinity Alps Wilderness of Northern California (if you know the area, we will be based near the headwaters of the south fork of the Salmon River and Josephine Lake). If anyone has a favorite hike for the bulb/plant enthusiast/geek, I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks, Chris. From janemcgary@earthlink.net Sat, 14 Jun 2014 10:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Trinity Alps Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 10:07:44 -0700 I don't know which way our correspondent is coming from, but if you have a change to visit Cook and Green Pass near the Oregon-California border, there are good plants there. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 08:27 AM 6/14/2014, you wrote: >At the end of this month, I will be spending a week in the Trinity >Alps Wilderness of Northern California (if you know the area, we >will be based near the headwaters of the south fork of the Salmon >River and Josephine Lake). If anyone has a favorite hike for the >bulb/plant enthusiast/geek, I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks, Chris. From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Sat, 14 Jun 2014 17:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Crinum 'Tulipan' Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2014 18:53:02 -0500 Alani, Thanks for letting me know Crinum 'Tulipan' does not have offsets. How did your seeds turn out? Have the plants matured enough that you can see what they will produce in the way of blooms? - Cynthia Mueller > Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 10:20:19 -0400 > From: alanidae@gmail.com > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum 'Tulipan' > > It's is still around but do to the lack of offsets produced it is really > difficult to find any that are actually available and most have waiting > list. I settled for seedlings. > > Alani Davis > On Jun 11, 2014 7:33 PM, "Cynthia Mueller" > wrote: > > > Does anybody know a source for the crinum 'Tulipan?' > > > > Cynthia W Mueller > > Central Texas > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From jamesamckenney@verizon.net Mon, 16 Jun 2014 06:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402924551.55244.YahooMailNeo@web121306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Jim McKenney Subject: The advance of the themids Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 06:15:51 -0700 It's themid season here in Maryland, and this year one in particular stands out as a really neat plant: that's Bloomeria crocea.  I mistakenly thought it would be just another take on Triteleia ixioides, but I like it a lot more. The umbel is about six inches in diameter, and the largest of the nearly thirty flowers is a bit over an inch in diameter. To my tastes, it does the yellow flowering onion thing better than any yellow allium I know. It's a keeper!  The forms of Brodiaea californica with big flowers on long pedicels are neat, especially the pink ones.  The plants sold as Celestial mix are also blooming and these are nice ones, too. Evidently the mix varies from year to year - I take this as a sign that more themids are in the pipeline. Earlier this year someone asked about hardiness of Dichelostemma ida-maia. I did not respond at the time, but the stock I currently grow is hardy here if it goes into the winter after a thorough drying. A few years ago I was surprised to find dozens of these plants in a local amenity planting. The following year a few returned, and after that nothing. They need to be dry during the summer under our conditions. Jim McKenney Montgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where spring 2014 has been the most floriferous one ever for me.  From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Website query on Rhodohypoxis Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 09:18:44 -0700 The following inquiry was received via our website. Can someone help Harold Siebert with his Rhodohypoxis? You can write to him directly or post the message on this list and I will forward it to him. Jane McGary Membership Coordinator To: janemcgary@earthlink.net >Subject: PBS website contact:rhodohypoxis >Reply-To: Harold Siebert > >This is a message from the PBS website for janemcgary. greetings...I >have grown Rhodohypoxis for years in my cool greenhouse. I grow them >in 4\" pots and divide them in early spring. This year about a dozen >baurii red refused to bloom, just foliage. What is happening? Thanks >-- Pacific Bulb Society web site email: website@pacificbulbsociety.org From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Mon, 16 Jun 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C6161855A3D@S1P5DAG5B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Gagea Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:25:21 +0000 Hello Folks, I have long been interested in this little species but have mot need able to acquire it or it's seeds. Does anyone know where I can get this little bulb? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Fred Biasella From enoster@hotmail.com Mon, 16 Jun 2014 12:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: T O Subject: Chamaelirium luteum Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 11:54:28 -0700 Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience growing Chamaelirium luteum, from seed or otherwise. It is not included on the wiki, for some reason, although it grows from a rhizome. It is an EAm native, though reportedly rare. Horizon Herbs (Williams, OR) offers seed of this and I'd like to give it a try. Thanks, -Travis From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Mon, 16 Jun 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1402949082.2500.YahooMailNeo@web122305.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: aaron floden via pbs Subject: Chamaelirium luteum Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 13:04:42 -0700 Chamaelirium is easy to grow from fresh seed and matures in about 3 years. It rarely offsets so rhizomes are hard to divide. I assume, but have never tried, that cutting the terminal end off will induce growth of secondary buds along the rhizome. I would hardly say that it is rare. Like with other plants, "uncommon, but locally abundant" would describe it better. I see it in mesic to dry oak woods, on shaded roadsides, creek banks, and even relatively acidic dry woodland so it is habitat nonspecific. That said, it can be picky in the garden at times and only flowers every other year or so -- none of mine are flowering this year and all flowered last year.  Aaron  E Tennessee On Monday, June 16, 2014 1:55 PM, T O wrote: Hi, I was wondering if anyone has had any experience growing Chamaelirium luteum, from seed or otherwise. It is not included on the wiki, for some reason, although it grows from a rhizome. It is an EAm native, though reportedly rare. Horizon Herbs (Williams, OR) offers seed of this and I'd like to give it a try. Thanks, -Travis From btankers@gmail.com Mon, 16 Jun 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Boyce Tankersley Subject: Gagea Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 15:15:38 -0500 Hi Fred: We saw thousands of Gagea in flower when we were in the Greater Caucasus Mountains several years back. Our good friend, Dr. Tatyana Shulkina (currently at Missouri Botanical Garden) strongly suggested we not bring any back with us. Apparently when she was curator of the living collections at the Komarov in St. Petersburg they became very weedy. Not sure how close your climate is to those regions but thought I would pass the information along. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Fred Biasella < fbiasella@watertownsavings.com> wrote: > Hello Folks, > > I have long been interested in this little species but have mot need able > to acquire it or it's seeds. Does anyone know where I can get this little > bulb? Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > Fred Biasella > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 16 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Gagea Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 13:41:34 -0700 Fred wrote, >I have long been interested in this little species but have mot need >able to acquire it or it's seeds. Does anyone know where I can get >this little bulb? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kurt Vickery (listed under Sources on the PBS website) offers seed of some species of Gagea, a close relative of Tulipa. The seeds germinate readily but the seedlings need to be kept frost-free. Some species are frost-hardy when mature. The only one I have grown in the long term is G. fibrosa, which may appear on the Illahe Rare Bulbs list sometimes. Most Gagea species have yellow flowers and are hard to tell apart, but a few have white flowers. All are small plants of turf and rocky slopes. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Mon, 16 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: The advance of the themids Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 13:56:27 -0700 Thanks to Jim McKenney for pointing out the usefulness of plants in the Themidaceae (the "brodiaeas," formerly Alliaceae, before that Liliaceae) at this time of year. This is truly the time of western American bulbs: themids, Calochortus, and Allium. Many of them flower long after the leaves emerge, sometimes even after the leaves wither. Almost all the themids are long-stemmed in habit, growing in nature among grasses and shrubs (one, Dichelostemma volubile, even twines to climb shrubs). I wonder why so many late-flowering bulbs have evolved in this region? Some are hummingbird-pollinated -- Dichelostemma ida-maia probably exclusively by birds. Bloomeria crocea, which Jim praised, is best appreciated when the plant has been established for some years, as the inflorescence gets larger with age (the "bulb" is a corm in all the themids). Triteleia ixioides, another one with yellow flowers, is quite variable over its large range; some I grew from seed I collected in Monterey County, CA, have very large inflorescences. I'm also enjoying a commercial Dutch selection, Triteleia 'Rudy' (not sure whether it's a selection of T. laxa or a hybrid), in which the usual median stripes are very pronounced; it increases well in a dry spot. I'd also recommend Triteleia peduncularis, which has white, lavender-flushed flowers on extremely long, slender pedicels. The attenuated visual quality of the inflorescence means it's not showy in the garden, but looked at closely it demands attention. It is hardy to at least the mid-teens F. All of these plants are easily grown from stored seeds, usually flowering the third year from sowing. Telos Rare Bulbs also sells corms of many. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 06:15 AM 6/16/2014, you wrote: >It's themid season here in Maryland, and this year one in particular >stands out as a really neat plant: that's Bloomeria crocea. I >mistakenly thought it would be just another take on Triteleia >ixioides, but I like it a lot more. The umbel is about six inches in >diameter, and the largest of the nearly thirty flowers is a bit over >an inch in diameter. To my tastes, it does the yellow flowering >onion thing better than any yellow allium I know. It's a keeper! > >The forms of Brodiaea californica with big flowers on long pedicels >are neat, especially the pink ones. From hornig@oswego.edu Mon, 16 Jun 2014 15:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: Chamaelirium luteum Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 17:27:14 -0400 I'd add to that that that since it's dioecious. if you want seeds you need to plant groupings of seedlings. The females are not particularly attractive - it's the males that have those fun, twisted flower stalks (explaining the common name "devil's bit"). I have only one female and three males left, which makes me nervous - I'm definitely hoping for seed this year. Last year was too dry, so none was set. Ellen On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 4:04 PM, aaron floden via pbs wrote: > Chamaelirium is easy to grow from fresh seed and matures in about 3 years. > It rarely offsets so rhizomes are hard to divide. I assume, but have never > tried, that cutting the terminal end off will induce growth of secondary > buds along the rhizome. > > > I would hardly say that it is rare. Like with other plants, "uncommon, but > locally abundant" would describe it better. I see it in mesic to dry oak > woods, on shaded roadsides, creek banks, and even relatively acidic dry > woodland so it is habitat nonspecific. That said, it can be picky in the > garden at times and only flowers every other year or so -- none of mine are > flowering this year and all flowered last year. > > Aaron > E Tennessee > > > > On Monday, June 16, 2014 1:55 PM, T O wrote: > > > > Hi, > > I was wondering if anyone has had any experience growing Chamaelirium > luteum, from seed or otherwise. It is not included on the wiki, for some > reason, although it grows from a rhizome. > > It is an EAm native, though reportedly rare. Horizon Herbs (Williams, OR) > offers seed of this and I'd like to give it a try. > > Thanks, > -Travis > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From rdevries@comcast.net Mon, 16 Jun 2014 16:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Rimmer deVries Subject: Chamaelirium luteum Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 18:10:50 -0400 This plant is flowing in my peat bed right now. https://www.flickr.com/photos/32952654@N06/14438143552/ Last year it had 1 flower spike but this winter some fur bearing creatures made a nest on top of it and chewed it down to the crown , i thought it was gone but now there are 2 flower spikes and several rosettes/offsets. and a second one to the right. I have seen this offered as a medicinal plant. Rimmer On Jun 16, 2014, at 5:27 PM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > I'd add to that that that since it's dioecious. if you want seeds you need > to plant groupings of seedlings. The females are not particularly > attractive - it's the males that have those fun, twisted flower stalks > (explaining the common name "devil's bit"). I have only one female and > three males left, which makes me nervous - I'm definitely hoping for seed > this year. Last year was too dry, so none was set. > > Ellen > > > On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 4:04 PM, aaron floden via pbs > wrote: > >> Chamaelirium is easy to grow from fresh seed and matures in about 3 years. >> It rarely offsets so rhizomes are hard to divide. I assume, but have never >> tried, that cutting the terminal end off will induce growth of secondary >> buds along the rhizome. >> >> >> I would hardly say that it is rare. Like with other plants, "uncommon, but >> locally abundant" would describe it better. I see it in mesic to dry oak >> woods, on shaded roadsides, creek banks, and even relatively acidic dry >> woodland so it is habitat nonspecific. That said, it can be picky in the >> garden at times and only flowers every other year or so -- none of mine are >> flowering this year and all flowered last year. >> >> Aaron >> E Tennessee >> >> >> >> On Monday, June 16, 2014 1:55 PM, T O wrote: >> >> >> >> Hi, >> >> I was wondering if anyone has had any experience growing Chamaelirium >> luteum, from seed or otherwise. It is not included on the wiki, for some >> reason, although it grows from a rhizome. >> >> It is an EAm native, though reportedly rare. Horizon Herbs (Williams, OR) >> offers seed of this and I'd like to give it a try. >> >> Thanks, >> -Travis >> _______________________________________________ >> pbs mailing list >> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php >> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki >> > > > > -- > Ellen Hornig > 212 Grafton St > Shrewsbury MA 01545 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From richrd@nas.com Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <829808DF-3274-451E-9E3A-F676B626DCFC@nas.com> From: Richard Subject: Fritillaria recurva Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2014 18:34:17 -0700 Has anyone had experience propagating Fritillaria recurva from seed? Does it grow well in cultivation and garden plantings? Years to first bloom? Rich Haard Bellingham, Washington. From fbiasella@watertownsavings.com Tue, 17 Jun 2014 06:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <8B527E4BF1849349A39D95E700706C6161855AF8@S1P5DAG5B.EXCHPROD.USA.NET> From: Fred Biasella Subject: Gagea Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 12:21:27 +0000 Thank you Boyce and Jane for getting back to me. I'm not sure how they would do in the N.E. (Boston) but I'm willing to give them a try. Warm Regards, Fred -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Boyce Tankersley Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 4:16 PM To: Pacific Bulb Society Subject: Re: [pbs] Gagea Hi Fred: We saw thousands of Gagea in flower when we were in the Greater Caucasus Mountains several years back. Our good friend, Dr. Tatyana Shulkina (currently at Missouri Botanical Garden) strongly suggested we not bring any back with us. Apparently when she was curator of the living collections at the Komarov in St. Petersburg they became very weedy. Not sure how close your climate is to those regions but thought I would pass the information along. Many thanks, Boyce Tankersley Chicago Botanic Garden On Mon, Jun 16, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Fred Biasella < fbiasella@watertownsavings.com> wrote: > Hello Folks, > > I have long been interested in this little species but have mot need > able to acquire it or it's seeds. Does anyone know where I can get > this little bulb? Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > Fred Biasella > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 17 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: New edition of Chilean plant book Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 10:36:54 -0700 I have received an announcement of the third edition of the extremely useful book "FLora nativa de valor ornamental, Zona Centro," a botanical and horticultural guide to the plants of that portion of Chile from about Coquimbo south to the northern boundary of the "Lake District," but excluding the high alpines. It thus covers many beautiful bulbous species. If you are interested in seeing the pdf of the offering, let me know and I will forward it to you. This is a prepublication offer, and with shipping the cost per book will be about US $45, I think. The book is actually two volumes, the main one and a smaller one that is a guide to the best places to see the plants. It is color throughout and paperbound and in the previous editions the larger volumes (there are four sets for different parts of the country) have a tendency to fall apart with use. It is in Spanish, but repetitive and straightforward enough to be accessible to most people who know botany and have a dictionary. If enough of us are interested we could put together a group order. This would save vastly on shipping cost. The vendor this time is a small botanic garden, and if previous experience holds, they will require payment by wire transfer, which is very expensive for us, though common within Chile. I'm going to write to the vendor and see if the book will be available in any way that might be more convenient outside Chile, such as amazon.com or amazon.co.uk, or if they have a PayPal account. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From janemcgary@earthlink.net Tue, 17 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fritillaria recurva Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 10:40:27 -0700 Rich asked >Has anyone had experience propagating Fritillaria recurva from seed? >Does it grow well in cultivation and garden plantings? Years to first bloom? My plants were grown from seed acquired from Ron Ratko's collection list and some from Frank Callahan. The seed germinated at a low rate and took about 5 years to flower. I have not tried it in the open garden but it probably would survive down to around 15 F in a sheltered position among shrubs. Currently the plants are in raised beds under high cover and flowered this spring after a low of 17 F where they are growing. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Tue, 17 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <53A07F1B.5030800@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: New edition of Chilean plant book Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 10:47:07 -0700 Hi Jane: I would be interested in a copy. Diana Chapman > I have received an announcement of the third edition of the extremely > useful book "FLora nativa de valor ornamental, Zona Centro," a > botanical and horticultural guide to the plants of that portion of > Chile from about Coquimbo south to the northern boundary of the "Lake > District," but excluding the high alpines. It thus covers many > beautiful bulbous species. If you are interested in seeing the pdf of > the offering, let me know and I will forward it to you. This is a > prepublication offer, and with shipping the cost per book will be > about US $45, I think. The book is actually two volumes, the main one > and a smaller one that is a guide to the best places to see the > plants. It is color throughout and paperbound and in the previous > editions the larger volumes (there are four sets for different parts > of the country) have a tendency to fall apart with use. It is in > Spanish, but repetitive and straightforward enough to be accessible to > most people who know botany and have a dictionary. > > If enough of us are interested we could put together a group order. > This would save vastly on shipping cost. The vendor this time is a > small botanic garden, and if previous experience holds, they will > require payment by wire transfer, which is very expensive for us, > though common within Chile. I'm going to write to the vendor and see > if the book will be available in any way that might be more convenient > outside Chile, such as amazon.com or amazon.co.uk, or if they have a > PayPal account. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From guylep@hotmail.com Tue, 17 Jun 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: guy stephane andre l'eplattenier Subject: New edition of Chilean plant book Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 20:09:57 +0000 Hi Jane, I would be interested too, no problem for me with spanish, But , since I live in Spain, it is maybe an idea to order directly from Chile? Kind regards Guy l'Eplattenier > Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 10:47:07 -0700 > From: rarebulbs@suddenlink.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] New edition of Chilean plant book > > Hi Jane: > > I would be interested in a copy. > > Diana Chapman > > > > I have received an announcement of the third edition of the extremely > > useful book "FLora nativa de valor ornamental, Zona Centro," a > > botanical and horticultural guide to the plants of that portion of > > Chile from about Coquimbo south to the northern boundary of the "Lake > > District," but excluding the high alpines. It thus covers many > > beautiful bulbous species. If you are interested in seeing the pdf of > > the offering, let me know and I will forward it to you. This is a > > prepublication offer, and with shipping the cost per book will be > > about US $45, I think. The book is actually two volumes, the main one > > and a smaller one that is a guide to the best places to see the > > plants. It is color throughout and paperbound and in the previous > > editions the larger volumes (there are four sets for different parts > > of the country) have a tendency to fall apart with use. It is in > > Spanish, but repetitive and straightforward enough to be accessible to > > most people who know botany and have a dictionary. > > > > If enough of us are interested we could put together a group order. > > This would save vastly on shipping cost. The vendor this time is a > > small botanic garden, and if previous experience holds, they will > > require payment by wire transfer, which is very expensive for us, > > though common within Chile. I'm going to write to the vendor and see > > if the book will be available in any way that might be more convenient > > outside Chile, such as amazon.com or amazon.co.uk, or if they have a > > PayPal account. > > > > Jane McGary > > Portland, Oregon, USA > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From myixia1@gmail.com Tue, 17 Jun 2014 18:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Pamela Slate Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 17:51:19 -0700 Hi- Thought I'd better ask you how to separate bulbs of Scilla peruviana. My two clumps of four and nine are on very thick basal plates and I'm wondering if the I can just snap them off - or does each bulb need to be attached to a piece of that plate? I've looked but haven't found this information elsewhere. Could someone also tell me whether the roots can be dry during dormancy (answer to the first question might answer this one)? Thanks much, Pamela Slate From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 17 Jun 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20205762.262685.1403058203791.JavaMail.root@vznit170158> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 21:23:23 -0500 (CDT) Pam: I would make sure when dividing that there is basal plate attached to any bulb material. Arnold On 06/17/14, Pamela Slate wrote: Hi- Thought I'd better ask you how to separate bulbs of Scilla peruviana. My two clumps of four and nine are on very thick basal plates and I'm wondering if the I can just snap them off - or does each bulb need to be attached to a piece of that plate? I've looked but haven't found this information elsewhere. Could someone also tell me whether the roots can be dry during dormancy (answer to the first question might answer this one)? Thanks much, Pamela Slate From alanidae@gmail.com Tue, 17 Jun 2014 20:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alani Davis Subject: Crinum 'Tulipan' Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 22:57:39 -0400 Well many of the seeds didn't survive but I got a few survivors. The seedling plants seem to be very similar though not quite as large as the parent plant yet which is a large C. macowanii- like plant with broad glaucous leaves somewhat sprawling. The flowers are a dusky pink which is slightly darker on the outside than the inside and do have a flaired goblet form more than the more trumpet shape of C. bulbispermum but still not a particularly open shape. I have pictures I can send to give you better idea than my descpritions! Alani Davis On Sat, Jun 14, 2014 at 7:53 PM, Cynthia Mueller wrote: > Alani, Thanks for letting me know Crinum 'Tulipan' does not have offsets. > How did your seeds turn out? Have the plants matured enough that you can > see what they will produce in the way of blooms? - Cynthia Mueller > > > Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2014 10:20:19 -0400 > > From: alanidae@gmail.com > > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > Subject: Re: [pbs] Crinum 'Tulipan' > > > > It's is still around but do to the lack of offsets produced it is really > > difficult to find any that are actually available and most have waiting > > list. I settled for seedlings. > > > > Alani Davis > > On Jun 11, 2014 7:33 PM, "Cynthia Mueller" > > wrote: > > > > > Does anybody know a source for the crinum 'Tulipan?' > > > > > > Cynthia W Mueller > > > Central Texas > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > _______________________________________________ > > > pbs mailing list > > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > pbs mailing list > > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From msittner@mcn.org Tue, 17 Jun 2014 21:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <20140618032941.006CB218C4@lists.ibiblio.org> From: Mary Sue Ittner Subject: Fritillaria recurva Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 20:27:22 -0700 I ordered seed from Ron Ratko, planted it in 1999. Some came up the first year and more the second. For years I babied them without any luck so finally planted them in a pot in a raised bed with other things and forgot about them. I was therefore surprised when at least one of them bloomed in 2009. But if there is still a bulb or two left I wouldn't know as that was the only time. But I'm not very successful with keeping native Fritillaria going. I do much better with other California native genera. Mary Sue >Rich asked >>Has anyone had experience propagating Fritillaria recurva from >>seed? Does it grow well in cultivation and garden plantings? Years >>to first bloom? > >Mary Sue Ittner >California's North Coast >Wet mild winters with occasional frost >Dry mild summers From cynthiasbulbs@hotmail.com Wed, 18 Jun 2014 05:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Cynthia Mueller Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 06:33:57 -0500 A few years ago I had a "dinner plate" sized cluster of S peruviana fused together which I dug and kept wrapped in newspaper in a box in a closet all summer, then replanted in the fall. Unfortunately, during one of the lingering spells of wet weather we sometimes have here in Central Texas, was killed off. I tried to plan for protecting the clump from too much heat, but couldn't save it from too much water. You might want to keep the mass intact and just enjoy it that way rather than break it up. -Cynthia Mueller, Central Texas Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 17, 2014, at 9:23 PM, arnold140@verizon.net wrote: > > Pam: > > I would make sure when dividing that there is basal plate attached to any bulb material. > > Arnold > > > On 06/17/14, Pamela Slate wrote: > > Hi- > Thought I'd better ask you how to separate bulbs of Scilla peruviana. My > two clumps of four and nine are on very thick basal plates and I'm > wondering if the I can just snap them off - or does each bulb need to be > attached to a piece of that plate? I've looked but haven't found this > information elsewhere. > > Could someone also tell me whether the roots can be dry during dormancy > (answer to the first question might answer this one)? > > Thanks much, > Pamela Slate > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Wed, 18 Jun 2014 07:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1403098558.65145.YahooMailBasic@web122604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Shawn Pollard via pbs Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 06:35:58 -0700 You may rest assured that too much heat is not an issue. :-) The bulb tunic of Scilla peruviana is almost as tough as that of Urgenia maritima -- which is made out of Kevlar. Shawn Pollard Yuma, AZ -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 6/18/14, Cynthia Mueller wrote: I tried to plan for protecting the clump from too much heat, but couldn't save it from too much water. Y From ezeizabotgard@hotmail.com Wed, 18 Jun 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Alberto Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 15:49:47 +0000 Too much summer water is a problem, otherwise it is a plant from moist WINTER pastures in the wild. > Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 06:35:58 -0700 > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: Re: [pbs] Fwd: Scilla peruviana > From: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > > You may rest assured that too much heat is not an issue. :-) > > The bulb tunic of Scilla peruviana is almost as tough as that of Urgenia maritima -- which is made out of Kevlar. > > Shawn Pollard > Yuma, AZ > > > -------------------------------------------- > On Wed, 6/18/14, Cynthia Mueller wrote: > > > I tried to plan for protecting the clump from too much > heat, but couldn't save it from too much water. Y > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 18 Jun 2014 10:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Fwd: Scilla peruviana Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 09:55:33 -0700 Alberto wrote Too much summer water is a problem, otherwise it is a plant from moist WINTER pastures in the wild. > In Spain I saw Scilla peruviana flowering in roadside ditches where it would have had a lot of winter water. Here in Oregon it does very well in a similar setting where it has good drainage in summer. Plants with less drainage, however, died during severe cold snaps last winter. I never paid any attention to how I divided it, so I can't advice on how to do so; it seems unkillable as long as it isn't frozen while saturated. I think it may be invasive in California. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <1403131338.38565.YahooMailNeo@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: some Chicagoland bulbs Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 15:42:18 -0700 I haven't tried either of these here in Southern California, but it was nice seeing them used and blooming in parkway plantings on my recent trip to Chicago:         Allium christophii:  https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14430343256/ Eremurus: https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14266840920/in/photostream/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California From kjblack@pacbell.net Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: <1403132439.2433.YahooMailNeo@web185003.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Dichelostemma sp in Chicago?! Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:00:39 -0700 Was surprised to see these Western bulbs appearing to do well in the Midwest ... at Chicago Botanic Gardens. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14451301331/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14453537244/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14474815253/in/photostream/ Ken Blackford San Diego, California From myixia1@gmail.com Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:17:08 -0700 Message-Id: From: Pamela Slate Subject: Rhodophiala question Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:06:35 -0700 Hi PBSers, Thanks for all the input on S. peruviana.....I read many archives (not all) and didn't see anything about division methods. I decided for now I'll keep my two largest clumps as they are and replant in the fall. Another question. I have a nursery propagator friend who grows out all seed for me and he grew R. advena seed for me in fall, 2011 (BX 286). There are now many seedlings still in a pot that I'm sure is too shallow. What I read about this sp. is that it's summer dormant.....so am wondering why in this 100-100+-degree weather, they are showing no indication of going into dormancy. Should I transplant them directly into a raised concrete planter (25 inches tall)? Water regimen? Do these need a totally dry summer dormancy? Or do they receive water in habitat year round? In what month can I expect them to flower? Any and all information is very welcome since it would be quite thrilling to see these flower. Pamela From janemcgary@earthlink.net Wed, 18 Jun 2014 20:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Rhodophiala question Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 19:25:04 -0700 Pam wrote, >Another question. I have a nursery propagator friend who grows out all seed >for me and he grew R. advena seed for me in fall, 2011 (BX 286). There are >now many seedlings still in a pot that I'm sure is too shallow. What I read >about this sp. is that it's summer dormant.....so am wondering why in this >100-100+-degree weather, they are showing no indication of going into >dormancy. Should I transplant them directly into a raised concrete planter >(25 inches tall)? Water regimen? Do these need a totally dry summer >dormancy? Or do they receive water in habitat year round? In what month can >I expect them to flower? I have grown this species from seed to flowering, and as I recall it didn't take too many years. They are early summer flowering in nature and grow on low hills, mostly in the Coast Range, that become fairly dry in summer, often among grasses. However, there is probably some moisture from fog in summer. Anyway, I would not dry them out hard or bake them. Any Rhodophiala bulbs I have dug down to in nature have been growing quite deep. Here is a translation of the cultural information on it from an earlier edition of the CHilean "FLora native de valor ornamental, Zona Centro", the new edition of which I mentioned on an earlier post: "They flower in the third or fourth year from seed, when the bulb has reached the necessary maturity. ... Plant them in full sun, in soil with good drainage, rich in nutrients. Replant them every three or four years, because production of bulblets (offsets) is low. ... Do not transplant [seedlings] the first year in order to give the bulb time to increase in size. They can also be increased by removing the head [I think theymean the top of the bulb], scooping, and cutting the bulb across, by offset bulbs or bulblets, or micropropagation." As I recall, I left the seedlings in the pot for two or three years. It was a gallon pot. I kept them frost-free, and they probably need that. I eventually tried them in the bulb frame, and they died. Jane McGary Portland, oregon, USA From robertwerra@pacific.net Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <007D26AF88374975AFCBB67E7C33FE28@Game1> From: "Robert Werra" Subject: new edition of chilean plant booki Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 23:12:23 -0700 Regarding New editon of Chilean plant book, there are two new books about flowers on the Argentinian side of the Andes. The first is "Flowers of the Patagonian Mountains." It is 320 pages with 900 color images of 731 plant species. It is in English. Martin Sheador is the lead author with five other contributors. Martin has been studying these plants in situ for many years. It is published by the Alpine Garden Society. My wife and I took a ten day AGS trip to Patagonia led by Martin Sheador and his wife Anna-Liisa and it was wonderful. If you ever wanted to see roseolate violets, we saw plenty. They are remarkable plus tons of other beauties. A companion book published by the AGS is "Patagonian Mountain Flower Holidays." The lead author is Hilary Little, an expert on Patagonia along with five other authors.It is 286 pages. It's a "how to" book to help people who wish to take a trip to see the flowers.They are available from the AGS Book Store at www.alpinegardensoceity.net. We have both and they are wonderful. Price around 40 pounds each. From makimoff76@gmail.com Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: From: mark akimoff Subject: New edition of Chilean plant book Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 23:38:06 -0700 I would like this book, please keep me in the loop how it will be available. Thanks! Mark On Jun 17, 2014 10:40 AM, "Jane McGary" wrote: > I have received an announcement of the third edition of the extremely > useful book "FLora nativa de valor ornamental, Zona Centro," a botanical > and horticultural guide to the plants of that portion of Chile from about > Coquimbo south to the northern boundary of the "Lake District," but > excluding the high alpines. It thus covers many beautiful bulbous species. > If you are interested in seeing the pdf of the offering, let me know and I > will forward it to you. This is a prepublication offer, and with shipping > the cost per book will be about US $45, I think. The book is actually two > volumes, the main one and a smaller one that is a guide to the best places > to see the plants. It is color throughout and paperbound and in the > previous editions the larger volumes (there are four sets for different > parts of the country) have a tendency to fall apart with use. It is in > Spanish, but repetitive and straightforward enough to be accessible to most > people who know botany and have a dictionary. > > If enough of us are interested we could put together a group order. This > would save vastly on shipping cost. The vendor this time is a small botanic > garden, and if previous experience holds, they will require payment by wire > transfer, which is very expensive for us, though common within Chile. I'm > going to write to the vendor and see if the book will be available in any > way that might be more convenient outside Chile, such as amazon.com or > amazon.co.uk, or if they have a PayPal account. > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From ang.por@alice.it Thu, 19 Jun 2014 00:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <146b2f364e0.ang.por@alice.it> From: "ang.por@alice.it" Subject: Scilla peruviana Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 09:07:14 +0200 (CEST) Old congested clumps can be divided, lifting the whole clump and cutting the basal plate vertically, so each bulb will have a portion of it. Then let dry them for some weeks and replant in autumn. Angelo PorcelliApulia- Southern Italy From jpsknisely@gmail.com Thu, 19 Jun 2014 04:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jonathan Knisely Subject: Pamianthe seeds Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 07:16:36 -0400 Pamianthe seeds (US$43 for 5 seeds, inspected to ensure they contain an embryo) are available on Ebay at present. Perhaps this is an opportunity some of you have been looking for. I was. Jonathan Knisely From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 19 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: New edition of Chilean plant book Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Hi Mark, I'll let you know if I'm putting together an order. I sent you some seedling bulbs yesterday and have some more things you might like. Let me know if you can come by some time when you're up north. I still have all those mesh pots too. All best, Jane At 11:38 PM 6/18/2014, you wrote: >I would like this book, please keep me in the loop how it will be >available. Thanks! Mark >On Jun 17, 2014 10:40 AM, "Jane McGary" wrote: From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 19 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: AGS Patagonia books Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:22:54 -0700 The two AGS publications on the plants of Argentine Patagonia are attractive, though very expensive, especially for non-members. I have seen them and may buy them. The emphasis is on southern Patagonia, including areas that those of us who prefer to travel on our own might not easily reach. Access to the area is pretty much through Argentina because of the lack of roads in the adjacent part of Chile, though you can, I think, go via the Torres del Paine park in Chile if you want to start in Punta Arenas and do a mass of paperwork about the rental car. Most of the rosulate violets Bob Werra mentions can be seen farther north, but for such joys as Hamadryas you would have to be in the south. There is little bulbous flora in southern Patagonia, if any, but the plants are indeed wonderful. Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA At 11:12 PM 6/18/2014, you wrote: >Regarding New editon of Chilean plant book, there are two new books >about flowers on the Argentinian side of the Andes. The first is >"Flowers of the Patagonian Mountains." It is 320 pages with 900 >color images of 731 plant species. It is in English. Martin Sheador >is the lead author with five other contributors. Martin has been >studying these plants in situ for many years. It is published by the >Alpine Garden Society. My wife and I took a ten day AGS trip to >Patagonia led by Martin Sheador and his wife Anna-Liisa and it was >wonderful. If you ever wanted to see roseolate violets, we saw >plenty. They are remarkable plus tons of other beauties. A companion >book published by the AGS is "Patagonian Mountain Flower Holidays." >The lead author is Hilary Little, an expert on Patagonia along with >five other authors.It is 286 pages. It's a "how to" book to help >people who wish to take a trip to see the flowers.They are available >from the AGS Book Store at www.alpinegardensoceity.net. We > have both and they are wonderful. Price around 40 pounds each. >_______________________________________________ From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 19 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Members' addresses Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2014 11:25:59 -0700 As the custodian of the PBS membership database, I'd like to remind those of you who are also paying members of the Society: please let me know when you change your e-mail address. The addresses on the database are important for such things as reminding you to renew and notifying you of regional meetings and other PBS activities that may interest you. Thank you! Jane McGary Membership Coordinator From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 21 Jun 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: virused Gladiolus? Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 15:53:40 -0400 Last year, I dug some gladiolus corms from an old, abandoned home site at the edge of our property. The plants are now blooming, and I'm worried about the color pattern. Please take a look and let me know if this looks like a virus. http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/media/IMG_4150resized_zps071eb131.jpg.html The foliage is clean and the plants are vigorous, although they rarely bloom at the original site due to encroaching shade and mowing by deer. I'm not sure how long they have been growing at the site, but all that's left of the house is a chimney, some patches of daffodils, and the glads. If this is virus, I'd like to know if viruses of Iridaceae can infect amaryllids. The glads are in the same flower bed as some crinums and are about 20 feet away from where I grow my potted South American and African amaryllids in the summer. Nick Plummer Durham, NC, Zone 7 From hornig@oswego.edu Sat, 21 Jun 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Ellen Hornig Subject: virused Gladiolus? Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 16:01:32 -0400 Nick - those look like very typical Gladiolus dalenii - no obvious reason to think they're virused. Ellen On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Nicholas plummer wrote: > Last year, I dug some gladiolus corms from an old, abandoned home site at > the edge of our property. The plants are now blooming, and I'm worried > about the color pattern. Please take a look and let me know if this looks > like a virus. > > > http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/myrmecodia/media/IMG_4150resized_zps071eb131.jpg.html > > The foliage is clean and the plants are vigorous, although they rarely > bloom at the original site due to encroaching shade and mowing by deer. > I'm not sure how long they have been growing at the site, but all that's > left of the house is a chimney, some patches of daffodils, and the glads. > > If this is virus, I'd like to know if viruses of Iridaceae can infect > amaryllids. The glads are in the same flower bed as some crinums and are > about 20 feet away from where I grow my potted South American and African > amaryllids in the summer. > > > > Nick Plummer > Durham, NC, Zone 7 > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ellen Hornig 212 Grafton St Shrewsbury MA 01545 From leo@possi.org Sat, 21 Jun 2014 13:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1984fd7cd0d376bb9dbeaabfb6cdb440.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Rhodophiala question Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 13:15:07 -0700 (PDT) Pam Slate asked about Rhodophiala advena. I have a few seedling bulbs left from about 20 seed I planted about 10 years ago. I haven't been able to make them happy and they haven't bloomed. For the first few years they were in a foam cup 6" / 15cm deep and half that across, in builder's sand, which here in Arizona is a mixture of rock types from riverbeds. They dwindled away, each year fewer returning. Some years ago I moved them while dormant to a very much larger and deeper container with local native soil. They have not grown any better. I store them inside the house for the summer. I put them outside when nights cool down in the fall and begin watering. I water them plentifully during the winter and they go dormant on their own when it warms up in the spring, with or without water. They seem to be undamaged by our full winter sun. Mine have tolerated overnight frosts into the mid teens F / -8C or so with no signs of injury. MiracleGro 20-20-20 doesn't seem to make a difference. Non-bulb enthusiast friends who visited Chile have talked about amaryllids growing on the coast in sand a hundred meters or so inland from the sea. Their description sounded like R. advena. Is this likely? Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From nickplummer@gmail.com Sat, 21 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Nicholas plummer Subject: virused Gladiolus? Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2014 16:19:56 -0400 Thanks, Ellen. The feathery look of the light and dark pigment had me worried. It's also good to know that these look like G. dalenii. I wondered what they were. Nick On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Ellen Hornig wrote: > Nick - those look like very typical Gladiolus dalenii - no obvious reason > to think they're virused. > > Ellen > From kimcmich@hotmail.com Sun, 22 Jun 2014 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Kipp McMichael Subject: Dichelostemma sp in Chicago?! Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 17:05:19 -0700 Ken, When I saw ida-maia in habitat in Northern California, they were blooming in July on a hillside near enough to a seep (in foggy Redwood Empire country) that I imagine they experienced moisture the year-round. Not every population was so moistened, but most of the spots I saw were locations were water was still present even in July. -| Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2014 16:00:39 -0700 > From: kjblack@pacbell.net > To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > Subject: [pbs] Dichelostemma sp in Chicago?! > > Was surprised to see these Western bulbs appearing to do well in the Midwest ... at Chicago Botanic Gardens. > > https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14451301331/in/photostream/ From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sun, 22 Jun 2014 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <1403496586.88053.BPMail_high_noncarrier@web120403.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Rick Buell via pbs Subject: from: Rick Buell/hippeastrum leonardii culture? Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 21:09:46 -0700 I have had a 2cm wide bulb of h.leonardii for about 4 months, which is doing well under lights, but this small bulb is making at least 6 offsets. Is this normal for this species, or will all these offsets hinder the growth of the main bulb? The main bulb looks quite healthy, less than half submerged in a very porous potting medium. Thanks. From rarebulbs@suddenlink.net Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <53A826AC.90705@suddenlink.net> From: Diana Chapman Subject: from: Rick Buell/hippeastrum leonardii culture? Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 06:07:56 -0700 The main bulb will bulk up better if it doesn't make offsets, but in the long run it won't hurt it. I plant mine deeper with the bulb completely submerged. Diana > I have had a 2cm wide bulb of h.leonardii for about 4 months, which is doing well under lights, but this small bulb is making at least 6 offsets. Is this normal for this species, or will all these offsets hinder the growth of the main bulb? The main bulb looks quite healthy, less than half submerged in a very porous potting medium. Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From Tony@plantdelights.com Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Tony Avent Subject: source of Sauromatum bulbs? Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 14:19:45 -0400 Diane: That's rather humorous since most of the sauromatum sold around the world are exported from India. -----Original Message----- From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Diane Whitehead Sent: Monday, June 23, 2014 2:23 PM To: PBS Subject: [pbs] source of Sauromatum bulbs? Does anyone know of a source of Sauromatum venosum (syn Typhonium or Arum venosum) that would be able to export to India? If so, please write to Shishir Sharma From voltaire@islandnet.com Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <4AC5DD80-F0EA-4B20-B61D-A6E20885F096@islandnet.com> From: Diane Whitehead Subject: source of Sauromatum bulbs? Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 11:23:27 -0700 Does anyone know of a source of Sauromatum venosum (syn Typhonium or Arum venosum) that would be able to export to India? If so, please write to Shishir Sharma From jwaddick@kc.rr.com Mon, 23 Jun 2014 12:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: James Waddick Subject: source of Sauromatum bulbs? Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 13:48:36 -0500 Coals to Newcastle… If he can’t find Sauromatum in India, that is pretty weak. Jim On Jun 23, 2014, at 1:23 PM, Diane Whitehead wrote: > Does anyone know of a source of Sauromatum venosum (syn Typhonium or Arum venosum) that would be able to export > to India? > > If so, please write to Shishir Sharma > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki James Waddick 8871 NW Brostrom Rd Kansas City, MO 64152-2711 USA Phone 816-746-1949 From leo@possi.org Mon, 23 Jun 2014 21:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <31f12cd51bafbe4116af5f73199ad2b9.squirrel@www.possi.org> From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Gethyllis pollen Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2014 20:19:43 -0700 (PDT) Does anybody have any Gethyllis pollen? I'm not sure which species I have but it will open soon. It isn't self-fertile, and I've tried with its own fresh and frozen pollen. Of photos on the Wiki it looks closest to G. britteniana. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From arnold140@verizon.net Tue, 24 Jun 2014 04:17:06 -0700 Message-Id: <12505139.279484.1403607892540.JavaMail.root@vms170033> From: arnold140@verizon.net Subject: Gethyllis pollen Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 06:04:52 -0500 (CDT) Leo: I may have some on my Gethyllis linearis. It has flowered in early July for the past two years. Unfortunately I'll be away until 7/15. https://www.flickr.com/photos/88332547@N03/9075425593/ If I get flowers and I can harvest some pollen I'll let you know. Arnold On 06/23/14, Leo A. Martin wrote: Does anybody have any Gethyllis pollen? From kjblack@pacbell.net Tue, 24 Jun 2014 09:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <1403623161.95364.YahooMailNeo@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> From: Ken Subject: Haemanthus carneus blooming Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 08:19:21 -0700 A few flickr shots of my H.carneus blooming now for me in San Diego, California.  I purchased this as a seedling 7 years ago.  First bloomed for me in 2010.  Unfortunately, I had this stored in my shelving for dormant bulbs, and the spike hit the bottom of the above shelf, causing the bud to angle sideways, before I noticed and moved it. https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14494308851/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14494311241/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14311045290/in/photostream/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/amarguy/14496514752/in/photostream/ Trying to self it and hoping for seed. Ken Blackford San Diego, California From myixia1@gmail.com Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: From: Pamela Slate Subject: R. advena Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 17:10:30 -0700 Leo Martin wrote: "Non-bulb enthusiast friends who visited Chile have talked about amaryllids growing on the coast in sand a hundred meters or so inland from the sea. Their description sounded like R. advena. Is this likely?" Looking at this page from Chileflora, seems like your answer could be yes. http://www.chileflora.com/Florachilena/FloraEnglish/PIC_FAMILIES_SIMPLE_Amaryllidaceae.php You will note the soil type and elevations. P. Slate From janemcgary@earthlink.net Thu, 26 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: From: Jane McGary Subject: Cyclamen purpurascens Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 10:19:24 -0700 I've been growing some Cyclamen purpurascens from seed for a couple of years and would like to move them on, but they seem never to go dormant. Is this typical of these seedlings? Can I gently repot them even while they're in growth, rather than waiting for dormancy as I would for the other Cyclamen species? Jane McGary Portland, Oregon, USA From brown.mark@wanadoo.fr Thu, 26 Jun 2014 11:17:05 -0700 Message-Id: <704359376.22032.1403805158348.JavaMail.www@wwinf1f26> From: Mark BROWN Subject: Cyclamen purpurascens Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 19:52:38 +0200 (CEST) Dear Jane, Cyclamen pupurascens is one of the easiest species for me just because it has virtually no dormancy. I find it moves just fine any time as long as it does not dry out. It should be extra easy to move as seedlings. Best regards, Mark W. Brown, 1924 route de la mer, 76119 Sainte Marguerite-sur-mer, France where it is at long last raining a tiny bit. > Message du 26/06/14 19:19 > De : "Jane McGary" > A : "Pacific Bulb Society" > Copie à : > Objet : [pbs] Cyclamen purpurascens > > I've been growing some Cyclamen purpurascens from seed for a couple > of years and would like to move them on, but they seem never to go > dormant. Is this typical of these seedlings? Can I gently repot them > even while they're in growth, rather than waiting for dormancy as I > would for the other Cyclamen species? > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki From petersirises@gmail.com Thu, 26 Jun 2014 12:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Peter Taggart Subject: Cyclamen purpurascens Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 19:39:11 +0100 I second Mark's comments. C purpurascens is very cold hardy and hates to be hot or very dry. Don't try to force a dry dormancy. http://www.cyclamen.org/purp_set.html Peter (UK) On 26 June 2014 18:19, Jane McGary wrote: > I've been growing some Cyclamen purpurascens from seed for a couple of > years and would like to move them on, but they seem never to go dormant. Is > this typical of these seedlings? > From ralph.carpenter1@googlemail.com Thu, 26 Jun 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: John Ralph Carpenter Subject: Cyclamen purpurascens Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 20:29:26 +0100 See also replys 355 onwards here: http://www.srgc.net/forum/index.php?topic=11254.345 On 26 June 2014 19:39, Peter Taggart wrote: > I second Mark's comments. > C purpurascens is very cold hardy and hates to be hot or very dry. Don't > try to force a dry dormancy. > > http://www.cyclamen.org/purp_set.html > Peter (UK) > > > On 26 June 2014 18:19, Jane McGary wrote: > > > I've been growing some Cyclamen purpurascens from seed for a couple of > > years and would like to move them on, but they seem never to go dormant. > Is > > this typical of these seedlings? > > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > -- Ralph Carpenter 2 & 3 Stone Cottages Chilmington Green Great Chart Ashford Kent TN23 3DW 01233 637567 From leo@possi.org Thu, 26 Jun 2014 13:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: "Leo A. Martin" Subject: Gethyllis pollen Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2014 12:31:16 -0700 (PDT) My flower opened early Wednesday morning. Today the anthers expanded enough for the pistil to be visible. I have collected the pollen and sent some fresh to a PBS friend. The remainder I will dry and place in the refrigerator for Arnold. Leo Martin Phoenix Arizona USA From bgjulian@iinet.net.au Thu, 26 Jun 2014 19:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <53ACCB2F.30900@iinet.net.au> From: samuel Subject: Cyclamen purpurascens Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 11:38:55 +1000 Dear Jane ,I grow this species as well as others and find best time for me is in growth , they too are almost in growth here 12 months of the year, Kind regards ,Gordon Julian , Tasmania On 27/06/2014 3:19 AM, Jane McGary wrote: > I've been growing some Cyclamen purpurascens from seed for a couple of > years and would like to move them on, but they seem never to go > dormant. Is this typical of these seedlings? Can I gently repot them > even while they're in growth, rather than waiting for dormancy as I > would for the other Cyclamen species? > > Jane McGary > Portland, Oregon, USA > > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From jgglatt@gmail.com Fri, 27 Jun 2014 13:17:03 -0700 Message-Id: <53ADD074.4090507@gmail.com> From: Judy Glattstein Subject: Konjac, In Ice Cream! Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 16:13:40 -0400 Who'd a thought? "Dondurma, Turkish ice cream, is traditionally made with goat's milk, mastic and salep, which is derived from the bulbs of wild Anatolian orchids. These flowers are now endangered, so Lezzetli Ice Cream , which recently started selling its homage to dondurma at the Hester Street Fair on the Lower East Side, substitutes *Japanese konjac powder*. The ice cream is churned in a machine, frozen, then beaten with a long rod (as is traditional) until it clings to itself. Of the four flavors currently available, Chios vanilla, named after the Greek island where the mastic tree grows and thoroughly colonized by flecks of vanilla bean, is the doughiest; pull it and you can see strands part, as with string cheese." From today's NY Times online. Emphasis mine. Judy in sunny, summery, humid New Jersey --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com From markemazer@gmail.com Fri, 27 Jun 2014 14:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: From: Mark Mazer Subject: Konjac, In Ice Cream! Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2014 16:36:45 -0400 Konjac is a commodity:: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/konjac-powder.html On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 4:13 PM, Judy Glattstein wrote: > Who'd a thought? > > "Dondurma, Turkish ice cream, is traditionally made with goat's milk, > mastic and salep, which is derived from the bulbs of wild Anatolian > orchids. These flowers are now endangered, so Lezzetli Ice Cream < > http://www.lezzetliicecream.com/>, which recently started selling its > homage to dondurma at the Hester Street Fair on the Lower East Side, > substitutes *Japanese konjac powder*. The ice cream is churned in a > machine, frozen, then beaten with a long rod (as is traditional) until it > clings to itself. Of the four flavors currently available, Chios vanilla, > named after the Greek island where the mastic tree grows and thoroughly > colonized by flecks of vanilla bean, is the doughiest; pull it and you can > see strands part, as with string cheese." > > From today's NY Times online. Emphasis mine. > > Judy in sunny, summery, humid New Jersey > > > --- > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active. > http://www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > pbs mailing list > pbs@lists.ibiblio.org > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php > http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki > From pbs@lists.ibiblio.org Sat, 28 Jun 2014 11:17:04 -0700 Message-Id: <8yohftxeccdbh0k7bwto8bav.1403976068398@email.android.com> From: arcangelow via pbs Subject: Gethyllis pollen Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 10:53:13 -0700 Leo wrote: Does anybody have any Gethyllis pollen? I put the email in the trash,  but when I came home last night I noticed that I had an unexpected flower of Gethyllis ciliaris blooming. It's first yet. Let me know if you want me to send some pollen and please give instructions for how to send it. Arcangelo Wessells Vallejo CA _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.ibiblio.org http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki