pbs Digest, Vol 169, Issue 12 Bulbophile

JANET MILLER scottandben@westwind.fsnet.co.uk
Sun, 19 Feb 2017 21:39:27 PST

I ordered the 1st copy of BULBOPHILE from South Africa and complained when it failed to arrive. Turns out it was posted surface mail. The sender sent another 
copy with apologies and both copies finally arrived., more or less at the same time. Janet Miller

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Message Received: Feb 19 2017, 05:58 PM
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Cc: 
Subject: pbs Digest, Vol 169, Issue 12

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To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: Re: [pbs] Tuberous water lilies Was bulb garden topic
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Jim wrote

> I know of no one or no group devoted to growing vernal pool plants of any
sort except possibly
> for a Nymphaea or two (??) of Australia and that only dimly.

Nymphaea in subgenus Anecphya come from seasonally dry pools in Australia.
They are magnificent plants with enormous fragrant flowers. They are not
well known because they need water much warmer than would occur without
supplemental heat in ponds in most of North American and Europe, even in
summer, and they are huge plants. They grow fine in cultivation without
drying out seasonally, but they are adapted for this, forming large tubers.

My 6' x 12' / 182cm x 364cm pond is perhaps big enough for one, and my
summer water temperature is even higher than they require, but I've just
never gotten around to finding one.

Leo Martin
Zone 9?
Phoenix Arizona USA


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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:55:13 -0500
From: "Tim Eck" 
To: "'Pacific Bulb Society'" 

Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris Hybridizing and Basic Indoor Germination
Questions
Message-ID: <000b01d28a53$361dffa0$a259fee0$@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Tony,
You could try a potting medium with mycorrhizae and biofungicide. They can
make a difference.
Tim



> -----Original Message-----
> From: pbs [mailto:pbs-bounces@lists.ibiblio.org] On Behalf Of Tony Carter
> Sent: Saturday, February 18, 2017 8:03 PM
> To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> Subject: [pbs] Lycoris Hybridizing and Basic Indoor Germination Questions
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you to those of you who responded to my original Lycoris inquiry. I
am
> working on tracking down a copy of the Herbertia issue that was mentioned.
I
> have one more request regarding Lycoris. Can anyone point me toward a
> good primer for (amateur) hybridizing? Peter Franks mentioned a method
> devised by Margot Williams of the USDA from the 1980s that grew Lycoris
> seedlings in controlled moisture conditions to accelerate growth;
resulting in
> flowering bulbs within three years. I primarily need a basic
understanding of
> hybridizing but if I can find information on this process I would like to
read it
> as well.
> 
> The second question I have is far more general. I started several seeds
> indoors this year for the first time under lights. The 'seed starting'
> soil I used on my first several trays proved to be too moisture retentive
and so
> now I have a mold issue. For the seeds that have germinated, what is the
best
> way to proceed? (Do I need to wait until the seedlings have matured to an
> extent before I re-pot them? Is there a good way to address the mold
without
> re-potting? etc.)
> 
> Thank you,
> Tony Carter
> Lake Dallas, TX - Zone 8a
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/



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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 18 Feb 2017 20:47:04 -0700
From: "penstemon" 

To: "Pacific Bulb Society" 

Subject: Re: [pbs] Fritillaria raddeana: too much too soon?
Message-ID: <1E24D605DAC74F58B91B52B9FB1FC584@bobPC>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"


>I've never had a problem with Fritillaria raddeana emerging in the way 
>Jim describes. (Fritillaria alburyana does, though, much to my 
>disappointment.) I would not put any mulch over emerging buds, because 
>then they will just rot. You could, however, make a little tent with 
>conifer boughs above them. Moderate freezing temperature at this stage 
>will not damage these hardy plants. 
F. raddeana almost always freezes here. In my experience, its foliage is much more tender than that of F. imperialis, stenanthera, sewerzowii, and maybe eduardii.
I have ?personal greenhouses? for bulbs with possibly-tender foliage; cages made from rabbit fencing, with metal rods forming a dome (to take the weight of 
heavy snow). The greenhouses are covered with heavy plastic, secured in place with duct tape (of course), and anchored in the ground with hooks made from old 
tomato cages. 
The plants don?t die if they?re frozen, but they come up ?blind? the next year. 
Bob Nold
Denver, Colorado, USA

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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:56:36 +0000
From: John Ralph Carpenter 
To: pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
Subject: [pbs] South African seed seller
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Has anyone else had problems with N de Jager, trading as Seeds by Post or
Bulbophile? He claims to publish a quarterly magazine, and I paid a
subscription last summer but have never received a copy. He does not
respond to my emails. Is this a con or am I just unlucky?


Ralph Carpenter


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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 14:56:28 +0000 (UTC)
From: ds429 
To: pbs 

Subject: [pbs] Pacific Bulb Society BX 415
Message-ID: <592994720.478463.1487516188814@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Dear All,

? ? ? The items listed below have been donated by our members and friends to be shared.
If you are interested in obtaining some of them, please email me PRIVATELY at 

mailto:ds429@frontier.com
? 
Include "BX 415" in the subject line.


? ? ? ? SPECIFY THE ITEM NUMBERS. DO NOT SPECIFY QUANTITIES. It is a good idea to include your snail mail address, too, in case I do not already have 
it. Availability is based on a first come, first served system. When you receive your seeds/bulbs you will find, included with them, a statement of how much money 
you owe (usually $2.00 ? $5.00 per share of seeds or bulbs + postage and packaging charges), and instructions about how to pay. PAYMENT IS DUE AS SOON 
AS YOU RECEIVE YOUR PACKAGE.

? ? Many of you are subscribers to this pbs elist which is free, but are not members of the Pacific Bulb Society which has a yearly membership charge. THIS BX 
OFFERING IS AVAILABLE ONLY TO UP-TO-DATE MEMBERS of the Pacific Bulb Society. If you are not a member, consider joining so that you can take 
advantage of future offers such as this. Go to our website:  

? ? ? ? If you would like to donate seeds or bulbs/corms to the PBS,(Donors will receive credit on the BX for the cost of postage for their donations.), please send 
CLEAN, clearly labeled plant materials to:

Dell Sherk
55 W. High St.
Salem, WV 26426
USA 

Non US donors should contact Dell for instructions before sending seeds.

ALL ORDERS TO THE FOLLOWING EMAIL ADDRESS ONLY.

Dell's email address 
ds429@frontier.com

Do not hit the reply tab or you will reply to all PBS members by mistake. 


? ? ? ? ? ? I WILL REPLY TO YOU WITHIN 24 HRS OF MY RECEIPT OF YOUR ORDER.
IF YOU DO NOT HEAR FROM ME, TRY AGAIN !!

ALL SEEDS, SOME IN LIMITED SUPPLY


From Rimmer DeVries:

1.? Haemanthus albiflos
2. Rhodophiala araucana, very few
3, Rhodophiala andicola, few
4. Phaedranassa dubia (ex Telos, but in bloom near P. dubia, Ornduff 9674, Ecuador)

From Brad Maygers:

5. Habranthus brachyandrus
6. Zephyranthes primulina


From Don Leevers:

7. Cardiocrinum giganteum

From Pamela Harlow:

8. Lilium ledebourii, ex Archibald. 2014 seed
9. Bellevalia pycnantha, (B. paradoxa?)
10. Paradisea liliastrum

From Uli Urban:

11. Arisaema tortuosum
12. Arisaema flavum
13. Hedychium yunnanense
14. Ipomoea lindheimeri

Thank you, Rimmer, Brad, Don, Pamela, and Uli !!

Best wishes,
Dell

Dell Sherk, PBS BX


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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 09:58:10 -0500
From: Nicholas plummer 
To: Pacific Bulb Society 

Subject: Re: [pbs] Fritillaria raddeana: too much too soon?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

I've got the same problem right now with Bletilla striata and Calanthe
sieboldii. I know from bitter experience that the Bletilla buds freeze of
if we have a prolonged warm spell followed by freezing temperatures, but
this is my first year with the Calanthe. It's very common for us to get
occasional days in the 70s in February, but the current extended forecast
is for highs in the 60s, 70s, and 80s with no frost for the next 10 days.
If we then get a freeze in March or, like last year, April, it will be a
mess. This seems to be the new normal. I haven't had a good bloom on my
lacecap Hydrangea macrophylla 'Blue Wave' since my third-grader was a
toddler. It used to be reliable, but now it starts growing too early and
then freezes. May be time to dig it up and replace with one of those new
lacecap varieties that bloom on new wood.

Nick Plummer, Durham, NC, Zone 7 (but maybe not anymore)

On Sat, Feb 18, 2017 at 12:35 PM, Jim McKenney 
wrote:

> Fritillaria raddeana is up and it's much too soon. In my experience, this
> species always emerges flower buds first. I checked the site the other day
> and there they were, two fat clusters of yellow buds at ground level. With
> at least a full month of wild temperature swings ahead of us, including
> periods when the day temperatures might not rise above freezing, I'm
> wondering what, if anything I should do.The plants are in the open ground
> under what amount to field conditions. Plenty of mulch is on hand to cover
> them.Any suggestions? Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA
> zone 7, where in a sense we're still waiting for winter to arrive.
>
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.ibiblio.org
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/list.php
> http://pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/


------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2017 15:09:33 +0000 (UTC)
From: Jim McKenney 
To: Pacific Bulb Society 

Subject: Re: [pbs] Fritillaria raddeana: too much too soon?
Message-ID: <2130070091.502005.1487516973288@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Nick Plummer wrote ?about problems with Bletilla and Calanthe. ?I've given up for now on the Calanthe as garden plants here. When I was growing them, it was a 
rare year when there was not a serious overnight freeze just as the flower buds were opening. The rest of the plant was not damaged, but the flowers were.?Above 
I wrote "for now" because these plants are so gorgeous and easy that I might try again growing them as cold frame plants.?
Jim McKenneyMontgomery County, Maryland, USA, USDA zone 7, where the current spring in winter is making me nervous.?



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