help with tropaeolum tricolor - pests

Rimmer deVries rdevries@comcast.net
Fri, 14 Dec 2018 12:21:35 PST
Spray with a low dose of an Imidacloprid or bifenthrin -based pesticide. But only spray when cool and not under full sun or hot grow lights. Do when cool or overcast. 

Works for all the bugs except mites. 

Rimmer

> On Dec 14, 2018, at 1:30 PM, Sarah Hinckley <sarah-lists@suiattle.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have a tropaeolum tricolor growing in my greenhouse.  It has yet to flower after a few years.  Two years ago, I had aphids and whiteflies in my greenhouse.  I sprayed it with either Safer soap or pyrethrin, I'm not sure which.  Anyway, that caused it to die back.  It's a very fragile little vine.
> 
> I am dealing with aphids again on my Moraeas, and I'm afraid they will attack the tropaeolum tricolor too.  Does anybody have any advice on what to do if they do?  The old "strong jet of water" advice would destroy this little vine too.
> 
> BTW, I empty and scour and disinfect my greenhouse every summer, and still the pests come back. :(
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Sarah
> 
> 
> 
>> On 12/14/2018 8:05 AM, John Ignacio via pbs wrote:
>> Here in south central Texas I find that almost all species and hybrids (except the epiphytes) are hardy in the ground and can be grown with their tops 3-4” below ground level.  They can take much more cold this way and their leaves and spikes are better supported.  Good drainage is critical, and has been easier for me to ensure in the ground than in pots.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Dec 13, 2018, at 10:01 PM, Lamon Ready <lamonready@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Andrew,
>>> Here in S W Georgia, 1/3 - 1/2 is normal part to leave above ground. We have not had a killing freeze yet, so the leaves are still green. This far south, I have them in some shade, which I believe helps with bloom longevity. The first killing freeze will naturally take care of leaves.
>>> I had new bulbs in gallon pots 3 years ago which I had the mix just over 1/2 full with the nose of the bulb just below the top of the pot. I then fill the pot the rest of the way with 100% ground bark to protect the bulbs from freezing. After blooming, the bark comes out. On a side note, 1 pot out of around 150 turned over on it's side for several months. When I found it, there were numerous babies around the mother bulb! So I had my helper lay down most of the pots. I should know next year if this was an anomality, or it speeds up offsets.
>>> 
>>> Lamon Ready
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ________________________________
>>> From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> on behalf of Andrew Middlemiss <middlemiss.andrew@gmail.com>
>>> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2018 8:39 AM
>>> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
>>> Subject: [pbs] Hippeastrum cultivars & growing bulbs
>>> 
>>> Hi ! Here’s hoping someone can help me ! I grow the commercially available
>>> cultivars of Hippeastrum, and have started to seek to grow them on from
>>> year to year. When one buys them they’ll come typically with a pot and
>>> compost, and ones advised to plant them with a third to a half of the bulb
>>> showing.
>>> All’s well so far as the leaves are often emerging after the flowers; after
>>> the flowering the leaves typically end up flopping about - and I can’t help
>>> wondering about the growth habit (of the parents) in the wild. Do any of
>>> you good souks know how deep they typically grow/ are planted outdoors?
>>> Many thanks for reading this diatribe!
>>> Andrew
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