sustainable potting media

Tim Eck via pbs pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Sun, 17 Dec 2023 11:54:40 PST
Good point.  I knew it got hot enough to kill most pathogens but was not
aware it decomposes pesticides.  I rather doubt it destroys those
organo-halide bonds but they aren't so common anymore.

On Sun, Dec 17, 2023 at 2:38 PM Nan Sterman via pbs <
pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:

> Municipal composters all have to adhere to very strict ISO requirements
> and test regularly. They all hot compost and at the hot compost temps,
> pesticides and pathogens break down so they are not a concern. The testing
> is their - and you - assurance of that.  All that testing is intended to
> ensure there are no problems with the municipal composts. I am actually
> more concerned about using compost from non regulated facilities like
> nurseries.
>
> Nan
>
> Sent from my eye eye phone. All typos are the captain’s fault.
>
> > On Dec 17, 2023, at 11:21 AM, Jane McGary via pbs <
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> >
> > As Mark mentioned, municipal compost in this area includes lawn
> clippings, and I don't use it either for fear of herbicide residue. I do
> use a mulch containing compost, but the company that provides it tests the
> ingredients for residual harmful chemicals. I like to use a minor
> proportion of organic material in bulb potting mix, and most recently I
> bought bags of "garden topsoil" from certified organic sources for this
> purpose. The main things I avoid are bark, which appears to be attacked by
> a fungus with visible mycelia that can also attack the tunics of dormant
> bulbs, and perlite and vermiculite, which have no value to the plants and
> tend to rise to the top; the latter are also said to be dangerous if you
> inhale the dust.
> >
> > When I started growing bulbs seriously around 1990, I had a country
> place with an alder woodland on part of it (alders are nitrogen fixers). I
> screened the topsoil to make up part of the bulb mix, along with ground
> pumice and coarse upriver sand. This worked very well and there seemed to
> be no problem with disease, even though the leafmold surely contained all
> sorts of microorganisms. I did not use this mix for seed sowing, but
> instead used peat as a minor component. I think sterilizing seed soil is
> pointless unless you can maintain laboratory conditions, since spores,
> etc., will arrive in the air. I used to grow Meconopsis by surface-sowing
> on milled sphagnum moss (not peat) as a preventive measure, but since
> moving to a place where that genus doesn't grow well, I gave that up.
> >
> > Probably the hardy, summer-dormant bulbs I grow are not as vulnerable to
> disease as the tropical and subtropical species some PBS members have.
> Surplus bulbs that I've removed to the garden mostly flourish there despite
> weekly irrigation in most places. It has always seemed to me that
> cultivating these plants as "hard" as they can tolerate results in
> healthier populations that appear in character. Coming to bulb growing from
> the perspective of alpine and rock gardening is no doubt an influence. My
> bulb house is very like an alpine house, but not even minimally frost-free.
> Many PBS members might despair at a situation where South African bulbs and
> tropical amaryllids can't be grown, but I like the relative freedom of this
> kind of gardening.
> >
> > Jane McGary, Portland, Oregon, USA
> >
> >
> >> On 12/17/2023 8:18 AM, Robert Lauf via pbs wrote:
> >>  Regarding arborist debris, I'd be curious to know whether the kinds of
> bacteria and fungi inhabiting half-dead trees would present a problem to
> bulbs or if they are sufficiently host-specific that they are harmless in
> potting media.  For all I know, they might be the same microbes working in
> composters.
> >> Any mycologists out there who could weigh in on this?
> >> Bob  Zone 7
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