In a message dated 16-Nov-03 4:41:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, email@example.com writes: > . . . planting bulbs deeper than "normal" discouraged bulbs from increasing > by side bulblets, and consequently gave larger flowers and continuing > flowering in subsequent > years. In this case large flowered tulip hybrids were the example. The > commentary I think said "deeper planting, equals cooler bulbs, larger flowers, > longer bulb life," though presumably less bulb increase. Is this "cooler bulbs > point" a valid argument for bulbs like tulips, or indeed bulbs in general? > e.g. some reticulate irises which split up much > more readily than tulips in my experience. Hello all ~ In the commercial growing of daffodils ( Narcissus ), primarily the 4n hybrids, a "rule of thumb" is that shallower planting can contribute to more rapid increase. In a business based on the selling of dry bulbs, this can be an important consideration! On the other hand, planting a daffodil somewhat deeper ( 5-7" of soil over the tip of the bulb ) than would be considered normal ( 2-4" of soil over the tip of the bulb ) does, indeed, contribute to a slowed rate of multiplication. The reason is simple. It takes more energy to grow from a depth than it does to just poke above the surface to reach the light. With less total energy available, multiplication ( a function of stored energy ) is retarded. In this case, it's an important consideration when planting daffodils in the landscape where the intention is to keep them for a longer time before being forced to dig and separate them to improve flowering that tapers off as the bulbs increase and become crowded. Tunicate bulbs ( generally ) produce an unbranched mass of roots from the basal plate -- an important consideration to bear in mind. To insure long term success in landscape plantings, one has to loosen the soil to a depth of at least 18" to accommodate this trait. It is also helpful to work in some moderate analysis fertilizer at that depth some time before planting begins. Also, tunicate bulbs appreciate substantial moisture during their period of growth. Daffodils can handle at least an inch of water per week -- assuming the soil is friable enough for the excess to drain away. They also respond better when kept dryish during Summer dormancy. I would agree with the suggestions that have been made with respect to planting depth for seed of this type ( round, hard, black seed ). I generally plant my daffodil seed at least an inch to an inch and a half deep in the indigenous soil in full sun and find this works just fine. Although I've not always been able to follow the advice about planting the seed as soon as it is falls from the capsule, it is probably wise to do so. When fresh, the seed is plump and shiny black. As it dries in preparation for dormancy, it shrinks and becomes matte black. The dormancy inhibitors formed during this process have to be washed away by rainfall before the seed will sprout. In other words, planted fresh in June in this climate one will often see the little spears of growth in late Fall. Planted in Spring ( seed harvested the previous June ), the seed will not germinate until the following Spring. I know -- been there, done that! Best, Dave Karnstedt Cascade Daffodils Silverton, Oregon USA 97281-0237 Cool Mediterranean climate -- wet Winters, hot and dry Summers; USDA Zone 7-8 .