planting seed

Anita Roselle
Sun, 27 Aug 2017 19:51:38 PDT
Thank you for the replies,

I am in zone 7-6 in the Blue Ridge Mts. of NC. I have a sand filled cold
frame and plan to put the pots  in there as soon as they are planted. It is
a covered frame that I open occasionally if it is going to rain and it
needs some moisture, I also prop it open a different amount depending on
the temps. I have propagated perennial seeds for many years, I plant them
in the fall because most of them need a chilling to enable them to
germinate.  A  bulb that would germinate in the fall and then not have time
to go into dormancy before it gets really cold I did not know when to plant
it, especially some that are marginally hardy here. I think that I will
wait to plant those seeds until late winter, keep them in the frige. until

I just transplanted some pots of martagon lillys that I started from seed
from NARGS about 3 years ago. I was excited to find nice bulbs down near
the bottom of the pots, about 1" x 1" all nice and firm. Can't wait until
they are big enough to bloom.

Mary Sue, I have tried to navigate the wiki and have not found the article
you called out, I don't understand how to get around it and find things. I
get on the wiki and scroll down to the list of articles but I have not
found the one you ID. Am I not looking in the right place or somethinga

On Sun, Aug 27, 2017 at 12:02 PM, Rodger Whitlock <>

> Anita Roselle <> wrote:
> I am new to planting bulb seed and am not sure about planting at this
>> time of year. I have seed of Glads, Hebranthus. Lillium that will be
>> marginally hardy here. I plan to put them in a covered cold frame for
>> the winter.
>> Should I plant them now or wait till spring, if yes how late in the
>> fall should they be planted? I am concerned that they will germinate
>> now and not go dormant by winter. Have not been able to find out the
>> answer to this so your response will be helpful.
>> Look forward to hearing from you,
> But no one knows where you live!
> People! Good gardening techniques are highly dependent on where the garden
> is. but Anita didn't say.
> Moscow? Puerto Vallarta? Minot? Las Vegas? Bellingham? Santiago? Cape
> Town? Taipei?
> Note that this involves more than climatic factors. Soil, which can vary
> significantly over very short distances, is another, and exposure yet a
> third. Examples:
> Here in Victoria, BC, we have a mild maritime climate with some light
> frosts most winters, short but severe freezes some winters. The soil is
> mostly derived from sticky blue marine clay deposited while glaciers
> depressed the land below sea level, but there are areas with quite sandy
> soil, also compliments of the glaciers. As for exposure, remember that
> peach orchardists in tricky locations plant on the north side of slopes
> where it's colder and spring flowering is later.
> A covered cold frame is a very good idea unless you are in a location with
> serious winter cold that deeply freezes the soil.
> Note that cold frames have other advantages than just protection from
> frost: they keep excessive winter rain off the plants inside, and they also
> keep some pests at bay, notably crows who are fond of plant pot labels.
> When the prevailing temperature is near freezing or higher, you will want
> to keep your cold frame(s) propped open just a little for ventilation.
> I'd sow now, water well, just once, then put the pots in the cold frame.
> Don't think you'll park them o/ut in the open and then in the cold frame
> later: if you are like me, step 2 (putting them in the cold frame) is
> likely to be overlooked later on.
> But, that said, I have to mention that when I used to sow a hundred pots a
> year, it was only when seed arrived from the various society exchanges in
> December or January that the job was possible. It's a little like
> Christopher Lloyd's advice to take cuttings when you have the opportunity
> (e.g. on a visit to someone's garden), even though it's not the "right"
> time of year.
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