DORMANT TEMPERATURES

Cody H plantboy@gmail.com
Thu, 19 Dec 2019 13:04:28 PST
Good point Jane. I had meant to include my location, which is Carnation,
WA, quite a bit east of Seattle and against the foothills of the Cascade
mountains, where we receive about 50 inches/year—30% more than Seattle
(forecast calls for 4 inches of rain over the next three days, for
instance, and thats not particularly unusual this time of year)—and the
humidity is quite high even during the warm summer months. I have lost
plants to moisture-related decay (for example, a pot of alstroemeria
seedlings) even against that south wall after having received no direct
moisture for months. An empty 1-gallon pot of soil left out in the open on
my property would almost never completely dry out.

On the other hand, the only bulbs I put against that wall are from climates
that are significantly hotter and drier than mine (e.g. lowland/inland
South Africa and California). Also, relating to your point about bulbs
growing deep in the soil where temps are moderated, I do pack the pots
tightly together in deep trays so that they are buffered somewhat from the
baking effect of the direct sunlight.

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 12:21 PM Jane McGary <janemcgary@earthlink.net>
wrote:

> When we discuss how we grow certain bulbs, I think it's necessary to
> mention where we live. Cody, who posted recently, lives in a suburb of
> Seattle, Washington, where it may be safe to keep dormant bulbs "against
> a sunny south-facing wall," unwatered and with at least 15 days of high
> temperatures in summer. I live a couple of hundred miles south of him,
> near Portland, Oregon, and I'd kill a lot of bulbs if I did that in
> summer. Portland is in an inland valley, east of the Coast Ranges and
> west of the Cascade Range, and has more sun and lower humidity than
> Seattle in summer. If you live in California, don't do that at all,
> please. British gardening books often recommend "summer baking" for
> potted geophytes, but we have to consider the climate differences where
> the author is living (some parts of the British Isles get much more sun
> than others, and/or greater summer humidity). I mention humidity, rather
> than just rainfall, because it can affect soil moisture in pots.
> Remember, too, that many (though not all) dryland geophytes  keep their
> bulbs deep in the soil, where temperature and to some extent moisture
> are moderated.
>
> I manage soil moisture for dormant bulbs by keeping them plunged in sand
> and covered against rain. Half my collection is sprinkled lightly a few
> times during the dormant period, and half is not, depending on (1)
> whether the bulbs are in pots or directly in a raised bed, and (2) the
> climatic conditions they have adapted to in nature. The pots I use are
> either terra-cotta or plastic mesh (used for hydroponic and aquatic
> growing), not solid plastic.
>
> Some bulbs seem to break into growth in response to temperature, and
> others more to moisture. Some may just be "timed." This year we had
> significant rainfall in September, which is unusual, and some fall
> crocuses flowered a month or more earlier than they did in the roofed
> bulb house.
>
> Jane McGary, Portland, Oregon, USA
>
> On 12/19/2019 11:50 AM, Cody H wrote:
> > This year I put my summer dormant bulbs (both South African and
> > Californian) in their pots against a sunny south-facing wall, where temps
> > probably break 100F at least 15 days during the summer. In that location,
> > they receive no rain, and I didn’t water them at all, even the
> (relatively
> > few) amaryllids. I just repotted them all and most are looking very
> > good—healthy roots and not dessicated, and many are beginning to grow.
> >
> > The year before I kept them in the basement, where the temp rarely hits
> > 75F, and although the bulbs looked fine when I reported them that fall,
> > many of them failed to break dormancy that winter and I lost quite a few
> to
> > rot. I will be putting them against that south facing wall again this
> > summer!
> >
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