My experience matches Bob Lauf's exactly, with labels from several sources. (I do duplicate all the information on both sides of the label, belt and suspenders, though it's much easier to read on the dull side.) I'll mention that a fellow plant person whose husband restores old cars told me that a very specific automotive paint marking pen (Rustoleum Fast Fix 2 in 1 Universal Flat Black) would remain legible for years on labels even in full sun and could be read from much farther away. I have UV and weathering tests in progress both in the greenhouse and outdoors now. Even if it does hold up I will probably continue to use my .7 mm 2B mechanical pencils since that's easy, cheap, and proven, but maybe useful for the more readable labels I try to put in plants I donate locally. I will check out the Homenote labels Jane mentioned. As Jan said, the quest for the perfect label is never over. Steve On 2/7/2022 3:17 PM, Robert Lauf via pbs wrote: > Regarding using pencil on plastic labels, I use a normal No 2 pencil because pencil is the only thing that is truly permanent in sunlight (defined as still being legible after the label has broken up from UV-induced cross linking...) > This is not necessarily a general rule, but it applies to the boxes of 1000 labels I get at the local co-op: The plastic has a slightly duller finish on one side than the other, and the pencil makes a better mark on the duller side. The labels are evidently die-cut and this leaves a tiny lip on the side that faced toward from the punch (which in this case happens to be the smoother side.) So I just feel with my finger for that edge burr and place that side down, and I always have the good side up to write on. Again, I don't claim this is always true, but it works for me and my batch of labels so it's worth a shot. _______________________________________________ pbs mailing list pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/… Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>