Clivia

Mike Rummerfield via pbs pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Sun, 02 Mar 2025 12:35:04 PST
Regarding Clivia specifically:
It is well documented that the condition you describe is usually caused by
a lack of cool temperatures during its winter dormancy period.  The
inflorescence will try to emerge but will be stuck down within the foliage,
will try to open its blossoms, but will not fully emerge that season.  Very
disappointing when you've patiently waited a year for it to bloom.

For reliable blooming, growing conditions for Clivia need to be as close as
possible to its native habitat (South Africa/RSA), which translates to
cool, (i.e. *not* warm), and dry-ish conditions during its winter
dormancy.  Once the inflorescence is noticed deep within the foliage in
very late Winter/Early Spring, watering needs to be commenced for the
peduncle and inflorescence to develop to its potential.  (Temperatures can
get down to the upper 30s F in my hoophouse and 40s F in the cold bedroom
during winter, but it is said that mid 50s F should suffice.)

True, Clivia is definitely a shade plant, and very deep shade will result
in larger, broader, darker green foliage, but reduced incidence of
blooming.  Too much sun will cause leaf scorch and burned, unsightly
blossoms.  AND.....too little light just prior and during bloom will lead
to washed out colors.   Ultraviolet light (dappled) especially, or at least
very bright light indoors or out (not direct, unfiltered, hot sun)
significantly adds to more intense flower coloration.

Also, Clivia are notorious for skipping a bloom season for no apparent
reason.
Too much water at any time will lead to roots rotting; excellent soil
drainage is of paramount importance with Clivia.
Also, in my experience, Clivia are heavy feeders and respond well to
fertilization.
I don't want to be discouraging -- they are relatively easy to grow as long
as their requirements are met.
Even if they don't bloom, they can be handsome, shade tolerant, indoor
foliage plants (aka - 'dust catchers').

Like most things, it's a matter of balance.

Good luck,
Mike
Onalaska, WA.
old zone 7

On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 11:20 AM piaba via pbs <
pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:

> thank you for your replies but this plant is in a home, growing on a north
> window with no direct light.  it has bloomed normally before.
>
> ======== tsuh yang
>
>     On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 12:53:56 PM EST, Eric via pbs <
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
>
>  Thanks for asking the question. I have a Clivia that did same thing
> growing under lights.
> Solved my mystery.
> Eric
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 2, 2025, at 12:01 PM, Tim Eck via pbs <
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> >
> > I have also noticed that hippeastrums blooming in shadier conditions
> seem
> > bigger, taller and brighter than those blooming in brighter conditions.
> >
> >> On Sun, Mar 2, 2025 at 11:32 AM Robert Lauf via pbs <
> >> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> I can't comment specifically on Clivia, but certainly in some orchids
> too
> >> much light will cause this, and placing the plant in a more shaded spot
> >> when the bloom scape is first growing will encourage it to stretch out
> more.
> >> Bob  sunny Zone 7
> >>    On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:22:33 AM EST, Pia Binha via pbs <
> >> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> does anyone know what causes the floral peduncle to not develop and
> grow,
> >> so the flowers are stuck at the base of the leaves?
> >>
> >>
> >> =======
> >> tsuh yang
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