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Messages - Bern

#1
Quote from: Robert_Parks on December 28, 2024, 10:06:06 PMWhat I have as camerooniana is very much a winter grower. My hantamensis also.

I'm conceding now that hantamensis is a winter grower.  But I've recently viewed in situ photos online of camerooniana blooming in January in southern Africa (early summer there).  So camerooniana may be "flexible" in its choice of growing season.

#2
I am trying to put together a list of summer growing Romulea species to try to identify some that I'd like to try to grow.

I was looking at the PBS wiki and and Wikipedia and here's my list so far. Would readers take a look at it to see if you concur, or advise which ones to delete, or suggest others that I have missed? And if you are growing any summer Romulea species, would you please let me know which ones and what your experience is with them?

https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Romulea
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romulea

R. autumnalis
R. comerooniana
R. congoensis
R. fibrosa
R. fischeri
R. hantamensis (possibly winter grower)
R. macowanii

Thanks for any help or suggestions you can provide.  I appreciate it.
#3
Quote from: CG100 on December 24, 2024, 11:42:18 AMIf you are not already a member, join the SRGC forum (you do not need to be a member of the society), and ask there. They have large numbers of contributors and several "bulb nuts" amongst those growing alpines in general. Crocus is a favourite of many there, so there is a chance that they now this genus.

Scottish Rock Garden Club Forum - Index

Hi Carl, Thanks for the good advice. I am a member of the SRGC, but haven't used their forum yet. I'll give it a go to see what I can find out.  I appreciate your help.
#4
Quote from: CG100 on December 24, 2024, 12:12:30 AMDifficult to source, difficult to grow or no demand for them?

Thanks Carl.  I think you are spot on about these bulbs. It's too bad because the flowers are so nice.

There's always Romulea and Tecophilaea to grow in case Syringodea becomes a dead end.
#5
I have been trying to obtain information about the cultural requirements of the various cultivated species in the genus Syringodea. I've read the wiki, searched the Forum and List, and scoured the internet. But, I still have a few questions, so I thought I'd post them on the Forum. 

First, here's the wiki link and a wikipedia link.

https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/Syringodea
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Syringodea

These sources identify some species and mention either their in situ locality, or if they grow in winter or summer rainfall areas.  It seems that the species most widely available in S. longituba, a winter grower.

I'd like to ask if anyone is growing any of the species from summer rainfall areas?  These species appear to be bifucata, concolor, flanaganii, and pulchella.  Are there any others?  Do you find the summer rainfall species to be easy or difficult to grow?  What cultural methods do you find successful?  And if you have also grown longituba or another winter rainfall species, can you opine whether you found them easier or more difficult to grow than the summer rainfall ones and why.

These plants have an interesting growth habit and the flowers are beautiful and present nicely.

Thank you!



#6
Quote from: Steve Marak on November 26, 2024, 11:02:43 AMI would not rush to discard your plant as having a virus until you're convinced it's not environmental, but I would isolate and watch carefully.
Hi Steve.  Thanks for your analysis and advice.  I am adjusting the pH of my plant water to about 6.5 and I'm going to stop feeding as much fertilizer for a while to see how things progress.  I may not have a clearer idea of what is going on until next Spring or Summer when the plants are outside again. My other Griffinia plants show no signs of problems at all.

I also have read about many people who use H2O2 on their plants to treat bacterial and fungal issues and to "purify" the root systems to better uptake nutrients.  In fact, an experienced grower and PBS member recently related his use of undiluted H2O2 to treat red rust (caused by the fungus Stagonospora curtisii) on several of his Amaryllids, including a Griffinia.     I'm not going to try this yet, but as you report, it is being done successfully for many issues plants have.

The pH is another matter.

Quote from: Ron on November 16, 2024, 03:45:56 PMCactus & Succulent Society of America's journal by Elton Roberts & Malcolm Burleigh, titled "Ammonium Nitrogen and Acidic Water for Xerophytic Plant Growth" (2010 Volume 82 Number 4).

I belong to the CSSA and I read both of the articles by Roberts and Burleigh quoted by Ron above.  These articles prompted me to begin adjusting the pH of my water before using it on my plants.  I had gotten away from it, but I've started again because of my Griffinia's problem.  The thing about their articles, if I remember correctly, is that they were more anecdotal, and not highly empirical.  But many people owning cactus nurseries are now treating their water to adjust pH because of these articles.  A key point that the authors make is that they think pH adjusted water with fertilizer containing only ammoniacal nitrogen works best.  However, if you read the labels on the plant fertilizers that you can purchase commercially, most also contain nitrogen from urea and nitrate. So, at least for me, their articles, again if I remember them correctly, were a bit confusing in this regard.  Plant fertilizer solely containing ammoniacal nitrogen is not readily available to hobbyists.  Nevertheless, it seems prudent to adjust the pH from 8.5 or above to a bit below 7, and it's easy to do. 

Fingers crossed.......
#7
Quote from: Uli on November 16, 2024, 12:28:03 AMMeasuring the pH of the water certainly is a good idea, but can you also measure the pH of the substrate?
Quote from: Uli on November 16, 2024, 12:28:03 AMWhat if you would repot one of these plants into fresh substrate and stop fertilizing it?
Hi Uli,

I don't have a meter that will measure soil pH. But, I have so many plants in my typical soil mix that are doing well that I don't think soil pH is a problem at this time.

I think it is a good idea about repotting one plant and using a lesser frequency of fertilizing it to see if there is a difference between the two plants as time goes on.  I have several variables to work with now that I hope will correct the problem.

And that brings me to one more variable that I'd like to ask you, Carl, David, Arnold, or anyone else reading this post who would like to answer.

I remember reading that someone recommended using a dilute solution of hydrogen peroxide in the water for your plants from time to time. The benefit that was claimed was that the hydrogen peroxide "cleansed" the roots and this allowed better nutrient uptake that was good for plant growth.  Have you heard anything similar; have you ever done this with any of your plants; and if yes, what concentration of H2O2 did you use?

Thanks!
#8
I've been thinking more about the uptake of trace nutrients like magnesium in potted plants and I remember reading that absorption through the roots is facilitated by neutral to lower pH levels in the water.  I have gotten out of the habit of checking my water for pH, but i used to do it regularly because my tap water is alkaline.  I then treated the water with a capful of white vinegar per gallon to bring the pH to slightly below 7.0. 

I just tested my tap water and the pH is about 8.5.  So, I will adjust the pH to a bit below 7.0 and I hope that this will help the plants absorb the fertilizer and trace nutrients better, and maybe help to resolve the yellow leaves problem in my Griffinias. 

I also purchased a packet of Epson Salts this afternoon.  An unscented 3 pound bag was about $4.00. At one tablespoon per gallon of pH adjusted water, it will last a long time.

So, I've got a few new techniques in my arsenal to try to help my plants. I'm hoping the pH adjustment will be the biggest help.  And if so, it will benefit my other plants as well.

Are any of you using any chemicals to adjust the pH of your plant water?
#9
I searched the web for magnesium deficiency in plants and many of the photos of houseplants on the web had images that are similar to my situation. The Royal Horticultural Society had some good advice to provide my plants with a quick and easy treatment for magnesium deficiency using Epsom salts. 

https://www.rhs.org.uk/prevention-protection/nutrient-deficiencies

"Over-use of high-potassium fertilisers (such as tomato feed) can cause magnesium deficiency, as plants take up potassium in preference to magnesium." (One of the fertilizers I use is Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food 20-20-20 with micro nutrients.)

"Remedy: In the short term, apply Epsom salts as a foliar feed in summer. Dilute the salts at a rate of 20g of Epsom salts per litre of water (1/3oz per pint) plus a few drops of liquid detergent. Apply two or three times at fortnightly intervals, spraying in dull weather to avoid leaf scorch. In the long term apply to the soil around the roots either Dolomite limestone (calcium-magnesium carbonate) at 100g per sq m (4oz per sq yd) or Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) at 30g per sq m (1oz per sq yd). Dolomite limestone will make the soil more alkaline, so should not be used around ericaceous (acid-loving) plants such as rhododendrons or camellias, or where the soil is already alkaline."

I'll purchase some Epson salts and mix a dilute solution for the next few waterings to see if it helps.  I may also try it as a foliar spray.  Wish me luck.
#10
Quote from: David Pilling on November 14, 2024, 03:45:44 PMWhat would make a nursery able to avoid a source that you could not.

Quote from: CG100 on November 14, 2024, 11:44:26 PMThat said, plants with supposed virus infections are very far from common in enthusiasts' collections.
Quote from: Uli on November 15, 2024, 12:04:57 AMHave you considered magnesium deficiency?
Quote from: Uli on November 15, 2024, 12:04:57 AMYou state that you use a fairly concentrated fertilizer but does it contain trace elements? Have you changed the substrate? Have you changed light exposure?

The plants were outside on a porch during the Spring, Summer, and Autumn and are inside under lights now. I first noticed the condition during the summer. If it was a virus, it could have been spread to the plants by insects while outside, but I check my plants regularly for pests and I never noticed any on these Griffinia.  I don't have this condition on any of my other species Griffinia, nor any other of my other plants.

I checked the labels of the fertilizers I use and they all contain magnesium, as well as copper, iron, manganese, zinc, and one contains even boron and molybdenum. But, it would probably be a good idea to flush the potting mix with plain water to clear it of any residual accumulation of salts, etc.  I have changed the substrate recently and the light exposure has been changed by bringing the plants inside for the winter.  I will research the magnesium possibility in greater detail.

I'm also a member of the Gesneriad Society and I have read recently about extensive personal collections of Gesneriads being infected with Impatiens Necrotic Spot Virus (INSV), requiring the destruction of all of the plants and starting over from the beginning.  Many Gesneriad growers raise their plants indoors under lights and they are going to great lengths to prevent thrips on their plants, because thrips spread the INSV. As well as using systemic insecticides, some are even purchasing predatory mites which they release on their indoor collections in their houses and garages. Better to have beneficial mites in your dwelling than thrips!

I will research trace nutrients more, be more conscientious about fertilizing, watering, and lighting. I am going to let the soil dry out a bit in the hope that the leaves will dry and I'll remove them and give the bulbs a rest period.  My best guess is that these plants don't have a virus, but rather have other special needs that I have not discovered yet. In the meantime, I've removed them from the rest of the plants and they are now in a semi-quarantined state while I see if I can resolve this issue.

Many thanks to Carl, David, and Uli for your comments and suggestions. I appreciate it.
#11
I looked into having them tested for virus and it is just not worth the cost.  I can purchase 6 or 7 new plants, including the cost to ship them for price of viral testing. And, if the lab doesn't happen to test for the particular virus your plant has, you are back to where you started.

I hate to give up on cherished plants. The leaves and flowers on these plants are very nice. I'll give them some more time, but if they don't improve by Spring, I'll probably toss them and purchase new plants to be on the safe side.
#12
The PBS wiki has a section on plant viruses.

https://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/virus

There's even a sentence with the Genus Griffinia mentioned. 

"Virus in Phaedranassa, Eucrosia, Eucharis, Stenomesson, Griffinia and Eustephia shows as longitudinal ridges (those leaves are perfectly flat if healthy), besides the mosaic stripes."

A photo of a Phaedranassa with virus is included in this section.

Alas, the wiki also states: "Virused plants may show symptoms such as streaked or mosaic patterns on flowers and foliage. Leaves and stems can be twisted, distorted, and necrosed. Some apparently healthy plants do not show viral symptoms and only under stress that a latent virus may begin to show. In other cases, there are plants that do not show signs of disease at all."

My plants do not appear to have longitudinal ridges beside the discolored stripes.  But, I'm still nervous about them because I know what they used to look like before presenting like the ones in the photo above.

So, perhaps there's another way to approach this topic.  If you (anyone reading this topic) had plants like mine in the photo above, how long would you keep them? [Because the sap-suckers are all too common.]

Thanks!
#13
These two Griffina plants have started to grow leaves that are streaked with yellow.  They are usually a very deep green color.  What do you think is wrong with them?  I use a 20-20-20 fertilizer at about ¼ to ½ strength for most waterings, then plain watering as a rinse on occasion.  They grow well and send up spikes regularly even with discolored leaves.  I cannot detect any insect pest infestation on them.  I recently repotted them and the roots and bulbs appear healthy.  Do they have a virus?  None of my other plants, including my other Griffinias, have ever exhibited this discoloration and I use the same fertilizer regimen for them. 

I hate to make a mistake and throw away favorite plants that might be treatable. But, if they have a virus, they have to go.

Thanks for your help.



Griffinia Plants 11-11-2024.jpg
 
#14
Here is a photo of my plants on September 10, 2024. They have exceeded my expectations and have thrived in the hot and humid summer weather in Tidewater Virginia, as well as growing splendidly in pots.  The plant on the left is in a black nursery pot that is about 7 inches (18 cm) tall.  The plant on the right is in a clay pot that is about 5 inches (13cm) tall. I suspect that these plants would remain evergreen under the right conditions and not subjected to freezing temps. I intend to bring them inside this winter and keep them under lights to see how they will fare. My only regret is that they did not flower for me yet this season. Perhaps these plants might even be able to be grown in pots in south Florida if protected from excessive rainfall.

(If you see a thumbnail photo of the plants on your screen, you can click your mouse cursor on the photo and it will expand for you.)

#15
'Firefly' Petunias are plants that have bioluminescent genes inserted into them.  These plants glow in the dark, especially the flowers and  flower buds.  They will probably be mass marketed within a few years, but they can be purchased again in 2025 in the USA while supplies last.  I believe the price in 2024 was about $29.  Here are the links about this plant.

https://www.light.bio/

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/this-genetically-engineered-petunia-glows-in-the-dark-and-could-be-yours-for-29/

Thanks to Lee Poulsen for informing me about this plant!

(I've reposted this topic here from "Plants in the News" to give it more visibility to Forum readers.)