pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 15

ana rosa Llovet Difilippi via pbs pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
Sat, 17 Oct 2020 05:21:04 PDT
Gracias por el mail.
Deseo seguir teniendo contacto con esa institución. Aprendí mucho. Graciad

El sáb., 17 de octubre de 2020 9:00 a. m., <
pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> escribió:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Ornithogalum saundersiae (Bob Hoel)
>    2. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (oooOIOooo)
>    3. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent)
>    4. Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please (R Hansen)
>    5. Crocus sativa (Arnold Trachtenberg)
>    6. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann)
>    7. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (Tony Avent)
>    8. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (rrodich@juno.com)
>    9. Re: Barnardia numidica is from North Africa (Robert Lauf)
>   10. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange)
>   11. Re: Lycoris behavior (Judy Glattstein)
>   12. Re: Lycoris behavior (Nathan Lange)
>   13. Re: Planting depth for Lycoris (William Hoffmann)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 10:34:34 -0500
> From: Bob Hoel <bob.hoel@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum saundersiae
> Message-ID: <D6A00775-0864-4F78-85C8-98E52A4660AB@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset=utf-8
>
> Bob,
>
> I am in the Chicago area and keep mine in pots to go dormant in the
> greenhouse in the winter.  It gets way too cold here to keep them in the
> ground.  When dealing with plants whose winter hardiness is questionable
> and who are prolific multipliers (as is this one), I also experiment with
> leaving a couple in the ground while taking in the rest as insurance.  In
> any case, I will probably be sending more to the BX in the spring as they
> continue to multiply.  These were originally a gift to me by a friend
> moving from a townhouse to an apartment in Chicago.  The gift that keeps on
> giving.
>
> Bob Hoel
> Elmhurst, IL
> 630-240-0219 (cell)
>
> Why drive when you can use active transportation!  ?  ? ?
>
> > On Oct 16, 2020, at 7:00 AM, pbs-request@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> wrote:
> >
> > Message: 10
> > Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 21:21:03 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net <mailto:boblauf@att.net>>
> > To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net <mailto:
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>>
> > Subject: [pbs] Ornithogalum saundersiae Hardiness
> > Message-ID: <1092362286.1158196.1602796863804@mail.yahoo.com <mailto:
> 1092362286.1158196.1602796863804@mail.yahoo.com>>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > I planted some bulbs this year and they did great.? However, I want to
> know if I can leave them in the ground here in East Tennessee.? Some sites
> claim they are hardy below Zone 6, whereas others say Zone 9-10.? Obviously
> a big difference!
> > Does anyone have any experience growing them in the Southeast,
> particularly in Zone 7?? I can dig the bulbs and toss them in the
> greenhouse for the winter if necessary, but leaving them would surely be
> more convenient!? If no one knows, I'll leave one out and dig one and
> report next year!
> > Bob? ?Zone 7
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:47:44 +0000
> From: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
> Message-ID:
>
> <_UuGn1I-HY0atAPJZ4bSsxSmrb3VsYMv8L_6lakq3sbt8KEqKn1-8iqBSCTp8beymzH9L_LNuJ0j1frVRlXsH0wrklNd4-wLBReQMl24VGU=@
> protonmail.ch>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not
> higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There
> were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time
> record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including
> succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat.
>
> My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my
> house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun
> in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In
> winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about
> 6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30
> years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not
> divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface.
>
> The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually.
> There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It
> did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling
> Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the
> sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the
> sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few
> other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has
> some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum.
>
> The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no
> flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering.
> All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the
> leaves.
>
> This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3.
> Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care
> or last year's. They are making leaves now.
>
> I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from
> the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second
> season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in
> flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here.
>
> I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any
> amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered.
>
> Leo Martin
> Phoenix Arizona USA
> Zone 9?
>
> Sent from ProtonMail mobile
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 15:51:15 +0000
> From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
> Message-ID: <456abe7c20fd49fdaac63d360128a7ec@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> HI Leo;
>
> That's impressive.  I can't imagine 122 degrees F.
>
> Tony Avent
> Proprietor
> tony@plantdelights.com
> Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/>
> and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/>
> Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752
> 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina  27603  USA
> USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F
> "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora"
> [cid:///image001.png@01D6A3B2.A692C0F0]
> Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and
> native perennial plants.
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
> The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely
> for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged
> information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not
> the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message
> has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by
> reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are
> not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use,
> dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is
> strictly prohibited.
>
>
>
> From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of
> oooOIOooo via pbs
> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 11:48 AM
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Cc: oooOIOooo <oooOIOooo@protonmail.ch>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
>
> We had a hot summer in Phoenix; daytime maximum temperatures were not
> higher than typical, but we had almost 6 weeks of nights above 85 F. There
> were more days above 110 F than before, but none approached our all-time
> record of 122 F. Most advanced gardeners here lost many plants, including
> succulents. I had okra in large well-watered containers die of heat.
>
> My Lycoris radiata are in two raised concrete block planters along my
> house, facing north by northwest. The planters and walls receive direct sun
> in mid to late afternoon during the summer, the hottest time of day. In
> winter these planters are in full shade. The L. radiata clumps are about
> 6"-12" back from the sunny wall. They have been there for more than 30
> years. I have two dozen clumps, progeny of two dozen bulbs. I have not
> divided them. The bulb noses are just beneath the surface.
>
> The drip irrigation system failed this spring, and I watered manually.
> There is a guava at the west end of one planter as an indicator plant. It
> did wilt a few times. Also in that planter are a tiny, struggling
> Philodendron selloum that I really should move because it can't take the
> sun; Crinum powellii album and another C. I can't recall, which burn in the
> sun but recover; several Encephalartos seedlings that do fine, and a few
> other things I planted recently that are struggling. The other planter has
> some bearded Iris, Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum.
>
> The L. radiata have always been irregular in flowering. Sometimes I get no
> flowers at all for several years. Other years I get a few clumps flowering.
> All clumps leaf and grow luxuriantly. I don't get enough frost to harm the
> leaves.
>
> This year they gave the best flowering ever, starting about September 3.
> Every clump flowered. I don't know whether that reflects this year's care
> or last year's. They are making leaves now.
>
> I planted 3 Lycoris aurea in one bed in fall 2018. They are well back from
> the hot wall. One made leaves that first season, the same one the second
> season. I haven't seen any this year. I have seen one planting of this in
> flower only a few miles from my house, so I know it can grow here.
>
> I might add Jasminum sambac and Trachelospermum asiaticum don't mind any
> amount of sun and heat once established, so long as they are watered.
>
> Leo Martin
> Phoenix Arizona USA
> Zone 9?
>
> Sent from ProtonMail mobile
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net><mailto:
> pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net%3e>
>
> ________________________________
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:04:25 -0700
> From: "R Hansen" <bulbnut@hansennursery.com>
> To: "Pacific Bulb Society" <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: [pbs] Seed and Bulb Exchange - Your attention please
> Message-ID: <002701d6a3d6$05e28b30$11a7a190$@hansennursery.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"
>
> Good Morning,
>
>
>
> I'm writing on behalf of Luminita Vollmer, our Exchange Director, who is
> currently swamped with donations and preparations for the last exchange of
> the year.
>
>
>
> Some of you are not aware or have forgotten that seed and bulbs need to be
> cleaned, in very good condition, and with a note on the individual species
> if they need immediate distribution. As always, we'll do our best, but
> Luminita has a huge amount to deal with this time around due to the immense
> generosity of members and some non-members.
>
>
>
> This will be the final distribution until early spring due to winter
> weather
> which is already here in some areas of the country. Most northern states
> have had frost and will be getting snow (fingers crossed) and shipping some
> seeds and all bulbs can be unsafe. Translated, that means the bulbs will
> turn to mush!
>
>
>
> Luminita has already announced that the Request for Donations is over.
> PLEASE DO NOT SEND any more donations until she notifies us in the spring.
> Storage capacity is limited.  If you have seeds,  please clean them and
> store them properly. A few packets of seed stored in the fridge should not
> send your partner into a tizzy. Good thing I live with non-humans. Half my
> fridge is full of seed : )).
>
>
>
> Please have patience when you place an order. With such a large seed/bulb
> list, it will take time for Luminita to get everything shipped. If you
> allow
> a reasonable length of time and still haven't received your order, then
> please do let her know.
>
>
>
> Here's to lots of rain and snow where needed. We do not need another summer
> of fire.
>
>
>
> Stay safe,
>
>
>
> Robin Hansen
>
> President,
>
> Pacific Bulb Society
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:05:43 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Arnold Trachtenberg <arnold140@verizon.net>
> To: "pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net"
>         <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: [pbs] Crocus sativa
> Message-ID: <697533936.257005.1602867943630@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> With the recent talk about saffron Crocus, mine just emerged? yesterday.
> ArnoldNew Jersey
> -------------- next part --------------
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> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/pipermail/pbs/…
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 09:26:26 -0400
> From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
> Message-ID:
>         <CAC_Hx1F4-S0X55k6GR8fTbi-BVoM-NjRDXqdOB-1jhdRfkqt=
> g@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts
> on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris
> comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L.
> sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling
> snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either
> was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a
> ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I
> thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no
> good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually
> long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though
> this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any
> flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence.
>     My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of
> spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits
> carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree
> impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can
> accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for
> Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give
> enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for
> reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as
> a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris
> bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the
> spring-foliage species.
>     Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a
> few them bloomed. My established clumps did not.
> Bill
>
>
>
> >This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue.  Everything I?ve ever read
> has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long
> winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in
> warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused
> the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures.  Others have long
> linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with
> zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project.
>
> --
> William A. Hoffmann
> Professor
> Department of Plant & Microbial Biology
> North Carolina State University
> Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 18:56:13 +0000
> From: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
> Message-ID: <005beab726514fff84c3ed6b9b2a55fd@PDN-EXCHANGE.pdn.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Bill;
>
> In checking our records, the only spring-foliage species that flowered
> well this year and was not divided the year prior was L. sprengeri.  L..
> chinensis, L. longituba, L. x squamigera, L. x incarnata all flowered well
> this year when divided, but not at all on undivided clumps.
>
> As for shade, we typically see much better flowering on spring-leaved
> species when grown in shade, as Jim alluded to in his post.  Add to that
> list, any fall flowered species, whose foliage burns badly in winter sun.
>
> Tony Avent
> Proprietor
> tony@plantdelights.com
> Juniper Level Botanic Garden<http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/>
> and Plant Delights Nursery<http://www.plantdelights.com/>
> Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752
> 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina  27603  USA
> USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F
> "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World's Flora"
> [cid:///image001.png@01D6A3CC.7D0F9F40]
> Since 1988, Plant Delights Nursery is THE Source for unique, rare and
> native perennial plants.
>
> CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:
> The contents of this email message and any attachments are intended solely
> for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or privileged
> information and may be legally protected from disclosure. If you are not
> the intended recipient of this message or their agent, or if this message
> has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by
> reply email and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are
> not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use,
> dissemination, copying, or storage of this message or its attachments is
> strictly prohibited.
>
>
>
> From: pbs <pbs-bounces@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> On Behalf Of William
> Hoffmann via pbs
> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 9:26 AM
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Cc: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
>
> Tony mentioned our discussion about spring temperatures. My thoughts
> on the importance of a long,cool spring for spring-foliage Lycoris
> comes partly from speculation and partly from my experience with L.
> sanguinea. In trying to get the sanguinea to bloom, I tried piling
> snow and ice on top of the soil all winter one year, whenever either
> was available. I kept buckets partially filled with water to have a
> ready supply of ice whenever night temperatures were cold enough. I
> thought this should have generated plenty of chilling, but it did no
> good. But then, in 2019, after what to me seemed to be an unusually
> long spring for us, my L. sanguinea bloomed for the first time. Though
> this year also seems like a long,cool spring, and did not get any
> flowering. So, really just some anecdotal evidence.
> My speculation is that a short spring limits carbon gain of
> spring-foliage species, similar to the way that cold damage limits
> carbon gain of fall-foliage species, which everyone seems to agree
> impairs flowering. It seems well documented that warm temperatures can
> accelerate leaf senescence in spring ephemerals, and it seems true for
> Lycoris. So a quick transition from winter to summer might not give
> enough time for the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrate for
> reliable flowering. Perhaps partial shade can have a similar effect as
> a long spring. Tony, when we spoke, you seemed to know which Lycoris
> bloom best in partial shade. I am curious if these tend to be the
> spring-foliage species.
> Curiously I too transplanted some L. squamigera this spring and a
> few them bloomed. My established clumps did not.
> Bill
>
>
>
> >This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue. Everything I?ve ever read
> has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very cold, long
> winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates, but not >in
> warmer regions...Bill suggested that our long, cool spring in 2020 caused
> the buds to break, despite the mild winter temperatures. Others have long
> linked rainfall with lycoris flowering, which is certainly the >case with
> zephyranthes. Sounds like a great grad student project.
>
> --
> William A. Hoffmann
> Professor
> Department of Plant & Microbial Biology
> North Carolina State University
> Raleigh, NC, 27695-7612
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net<mailto:pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net><mailto:
> pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net%3e>
>
> ________________________________
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:09:51 GMT
> From: "rrodich@juno.com" <rrodich@juno.com>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa
> Message-ID: <20201016.150951.3092.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
>
> Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants.  Would
> the triploids be sterile?  While the larger form does want to produce seed,
> I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed.  The smaller form does produce
> viable seed.  I need to do more investigating next season to be positive.
> Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 20:31:22 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Robert Lauf <boblauf@att.net>
> To: rrodich--- via pbs <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Barnardia numidica is from North Africa
> Message-ID: <584328240.345035.1602880282843@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
>  Generally the triploids would be sterile.? In the orchid biz there are
> some suggestions that crosses involving a triploid and a diploid have the
> best chance of success using the triploid as the pollen parent rather than
> the pod parent, but I would regard this as "lore" at best and an urban
> legend at worst.? Note that large cattleyas might make a half million seeds
> in a pod, so a generous sowing in the flask might yield some viable plants
> even though the viable seeds are a tiny percentage of the total.? Note also
> that orchid seeds don't have any endosperm, so they are germinated in a
> sugar-containing medium in a sterile flask.? This is not unlike "embryo
> rescue" that can be done in some wide crosses in other kinds of plants,
> where the cross yields a viable embryo but the mother plant doesn't
> recognize it well enough to make a complete seed.? So you might get a pod,
> but when you open it there are little flakes where seeds should be, but the
> flakes in some cases can be germinated if yo
>  u supply the carbohydrates.
> Embryos from (effectively) a selfing of a triploid will normally be
> aneuploids and any effort to germinate and nurse them along would likely
> yield crippled plants that have no desirable qualities.
> I used to have a sterile workstation here at home, but that was really
> over the top even for me, so I no longer can do such experiments.
> Probably more than you wanted to know.
> Bob
>     On Friday, October 16, 2020, 04:11:16 PM EDT, rrodich--- via pbs <
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net> wrote:
>
>  Diploid and triploid forms could explain my different sized plants.?
> Would the triploids be sterile?? While the larger form does want to produce
> seed, I'm not sure I have ever actually seen seed.? The smaller form does
> produce viable seed.? I need to do more investigating next season to be
> positive. Thanks.Rick Rodichnear Minneapolis, MN
> _______________________________________________
> pbs mailing list
> pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> http://lists.pacificbulbsociety.net/cgi-bin/…
> Unsubscribe: <mailto:pbs-unsubscribe@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:59:25 -0700
> From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
> Message-ID:
>         <mailman.1573.1602896369.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
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>
> My Lycoris x squamigera have flowered here in Sonoma County,
> California (USDA zone 9b) each of the last four years. The bulbs are
> growing in a five gallon, black plastic pot instead of in the ground
> in order to maximize winter cooling. Not surprisingly, the bulbs on
> the south side of the pot consistently never flower. This is more
> likely due to flower bud abortion caused by spring/summer over
> heating than to lack of winter vernalization. I suspect our winters
> here might be too warm for successful flowering from bulbs planted in
> the ground where they would be more insulated from night time
> vernalizing temperatures during the winter.
>
> Nathan
>
>
> At 01:13 PM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
> Not all species are the same. The genus Lycoris is composed of 2
> quite distinct subgenera. The subgenus that includes the spring
> foliage species most notably L. squamigera, L. chinensis and others
> produces is annual foliage in spring at the end of winter. They bloom
> in late summer and early fall months after the foliage has gone
> dormant. These species and their hybrids are generally quite cold
> hardy through Zone 5 and generally grow and bloom best no warmer than
> Zone 7/8.
>
> At 09:05 AM 10/15/2020, you wrote:
> This brings up another puzzling lycoris issue.  Everything I've ever
> read has repeated that Lycoris x squamigera flowers only after a very
> cold, long winter, which is why it flowers reliably in cold climates,
> but not in warmer regions.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 21:55:33 -0400
> From: Judy Glattstein <jgglatt@gmail.com>
> To: pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
> Message-ID: <b293357e-81ad-d8d4-8720-9380d423e80e@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Nathan, do you think it would help if the black pot was painted white,
> to reflect sunlight rather than absorbing the heat?
>
> I use spray paint with primer included. Very easy as long as you don't
> choose a windy day!
>
>
> Judy in western New Jersey where I'm almost ready to clear out the
> "potting shed"? turning it back into a garage again and park my car
> under cover once more
>
>
> --
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 19:41:38 -0700
> From: Nathan Lange <plantsman@comcast.net>
> To: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Lycoris behavior
> Message-ID:
>         <mailman.1575.1602902501.117284.pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
>
> Yes, that would probably help. I've considered simply moving the pot
> to the shade during the summer but I find the current situation
> interesting. The orientation of the pot has never changed but it's
> only one pot so my interpretation of what's going on could be
> wrong.  It's really not a species I recommend growing here since
> flowering time overlaps with the earliest Amaryllis belladonna
> hybrids which are superior here in nearly every respect (not true in
> places where winter hardiness is an issue).
>
> Nathan
>
>
> At 06:55 PM 10/16/2020, you wrote:
> >Nathan, do you think it would help if the black pot was painted
> >white, to reflect sunlight rather than absorbing the heat?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2020 17:08:13 -0400
> From: William Hoffmann <wahoffma@ncsu.edu>
> To: Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com>
> Cc: Pacific Bulb Society <pbs@lists.pacificbulbsociety.net>
> Subject: Re: [pbs] Planting depth for Lycoris
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAC_Hx1FcabeBqUXW3bQ7-eW3ZRnE-A_4Z1oEBtc0rNVMGyA8ow@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Oops, I missed that point in Jim's post. This year in my garden (a few
> milies from PDN) a number of spring-foliage Lycoris bloomed for me without
> recent lifting: L. sprengeri, L. chinensis, and L. longituba and a few
> spring-foliage hybrids, Momozono, Lemon Yellow Spider, and October Bronze.
> The species are in sun, but the hybrids all have overhead shade. Overall a
> pretty good year, and have hundreds of seeds from dozens of crosses to grow
> up.
>
> On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 2:56 PM Tony Avent <Tony@plantdelights.com> wrote:
>
> > Bill;
> >
> >
> >
> > In checking our records, the only spring-foliage species that flowered
> > well this year and was not divided the year prior was L. sprengeri.  L..
> > chinensis, L. longituba, L. x squamigera, L. x incarnata all flowered
> well
> > this year when divided, but not at all on undivided clumps.
> >
> >
> >
> > As for shade, we typically see much better flowering on spring-leaved
> > species when grown in shade, as Jim alluded to in his post.  Add to that
> > list, any fall flowered species, whose foliage burns badly in winter sun.
> >
> >
> >
> > Tony Avent
> >
> > Proprietor
> >
> > tony@plantdelights.com
> >
> > Juniper Level Botanic Garden <http://www.juniperlevelbotanicgarden.org/>
> > and Plant Delights Nursery <http://www.plantdelights.com/>
> >
> > Ph 919.772.4794/fx 919.772.4752
> >
> > 9241 Sauls Road, Raleigh, North Carolina  27603  USA
> >
> > USDA Zone 7b/Winter 0-5 F/Summer 95-105F
> >
> > "Preserving, Studying, Propagating, and Sharing the World?s Flora?
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of pbs Digest, Vol 44, Issue 15
> ***********************************
>
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